C
Master craft
BLAINE HALVORSON’S CURIOUS WORLD
FOR MEN
Hot topics BURNING MAN KITEBOARDING TASTING MENUS SUMMER SUITING PLUS, NEW PLANES, CARS, YACHTS AND ROBOTS
CALIFORNIA STYLE
Man of the hour
AT THE ROUND TABLE WITH “GAME OF THRONES” STAR NIKOLAJ COSTER-WALDAU
Cover
Love all
A HOME COURT ADVANTAGE IN THE NEW ERA OF TENNIS
Game changers
THE LATEST FROM ARTIST DOUG AITKEN, CHEF ROY CHOI, ARCHITECT GREG LYNN AND BUSINESSMAN LARRY ELLISON SPRING 2014
$5.99
Display until July 14, 2014
LVMH (Vuitton)
LVMH (Vuitton)
Prada Group (Prada)
Prada Group (Prada)
Dolce & Gabbana
Dolce & Gabbana
Gucci Group (Bottega Veneta)
Gucci Group (Bottega Veneta)
Ermenegildo Zegna
Ermenegildo Zegna
BEVERLY HILLS SOUTH COAST PLAZA STANFORD SHOPPING CENTER 1.855.44.ZEGNA | ZEGNA.COM
SAN FRANCISCO: 105 GRANT AVENUE (415) 772-9835
Valentino
WWW.VALENTINO.COM
Valentino
LVMH (Tag Heuer)
LVMH (Tag Heuer)
THE HUBERT STREET PENTHOUSE LOCATED IN THE HEART OF TRIBECA
El Ad Group
Raphael De Niro, Lic. Assoc. R.E. Broker The De Niro Team at Douglas Elliman Real Estate 212-460-0655 • deniroteam@elliman.com
Leonard Steinberg, Lic. Assoc. R.E. Broker The Luxury Loft Team at Douglas Elliman Real Estate 917-385-0565 • lsteinberg@elliman.com
El Ad Group
elliman.com/1662210
Sponsor: El-Ad 250 West LLC, 575 Madison Ave, 22nd Floor New York, NY: Property Location: 250 West Street, New York, NY 10013. This advertisement is not an offering. The complete offering terms are in an offering plan available from sponsor. File No. CD11-0015
C FOR MEN
features
80 MAN OF THE HOUR
TOC 1
As Nikolaj Coster-Waldau gears up for the fourth season of “Game of Thrones,” the Danish actor weighs in on the powerful franchise, the industry and the rising sea of opportunity.
92 TO INFINITY AND BEYOND Since the 1990s, L.A. artist Doug Aitken has tapped a stream of earthly subjects— volcanic tremors, typhoons and migratory birds—employing ultrasensitive microphones and rocket cameras. A new book, 100 Yrs, puts his broad oeuvre on vivid display.
96 HOUSE PARTY
Market loft into a playful pad. NIKOLAJ COSTERWALDAU in a Zegna sweater, Etro polo and Vilebrequin trunks, Page 80.
102 FOR THE LOVE OF THE GAME A drought in American men’s singles champions has rallied a group of impassioned pros, fans and tech billionaires behind the comeback of SoCal tennis.
106 WAY OUT WEST Designer, collector, craftsman Blaine Halvorson is like a gem from an abandoned mining town—by way of outer space—beamed down right here in Culver City. Brian D. Leitch stops by his “MadeWorn” studio, where he makes art, clothes, shoes...And things just get curiouser and curiouser.
C 18 MEN’S SPRING 2014
HUGH STEWART. SEE SHOPPING GUIDE FOR MORE DETAILS, PAGE 113
With paddleboards and pingpong tables, Stephanie and Tyler Mitchell transformed an industrial South of
Š2014 Cartier
Cartier
calibre de cartier chronograph MANUFACTURE MOVEMENT 1904- CH MC the calibre de cartier chronograph watch combines the power of its design with a cartier fine watchmaking movement, the 1904-ch mc. fitted with a double barrel and a column wheel, it guarantees exceptional timekeeping. established in 1847, cartier creates exceptional watches that combine daring design and watchmaking savoir-faire.
370 north rodeo drive, beverly hills ( 310 ) 275-4272 south coast plaza ( 714) 540-8231 - 6600 topanga canyon blvd, canoga park ( 818 ) 737-3471 250 post street, san francisco (415 ) 397-3180 - valley fair mall, santa clara ( 650 ) 325-6170 explore and shop www.cartier.us
C FOR MEN
TOC 2 MAN ON FIRE, Page 29.
departments C for Men salutes the West Coast’s champions of cool.
26 C PEOPLE
Who’s who behind the scenes of this issue.
29 WHAT’S HOT
A look at new and exciting people, places and products around the state: Burning Man’s civilized debauchery. Milken’s annual meeting of the minds. L.A.’s Golden Road Brewing. Superba’s daily bread. The Broad Museum lays the groundwork. A “Game of Thrones” starlet steps out of character.
45 STYLE
Louis Vuitton hits the streets of S.F.
C 20 MEN’S SPRING 2014
New threads by Kelly Cole. Unionmade’s second L.A. outpost. Spring basics from Welcome Stranger. Sole searching with heritage brand SeaVees.
61 DESIGN
77 TRAVEL
Adventure awaits in Turks and Caicos with world-class kitesurfing, paddleboarding, bonefishing and epic accommodations.
In the fast lane: Bugatti shines at Oxnard’s Mullin Automotive Museum. Red-hot convertibles fit for a cruise down Sunset Boulevard. Art of Board gives old skateboards a new look.
113 SHOPPING GUIDE
69 MENU
ON OUR COVER
High spirits at San Diego’s Juniper & Ivy. Calling all Mortal Kombat buffs— L.A.’s EightyTwo is now open. Jon Favreau and Roy Choi whip up something special. High-tech gadgets by Coravin and Scanomat.
114 CALIFORNIA
The Beach Boys go surfin’ on the Cali coast.
NIKOLAJ COSTER-WALDAU photographed by Hugh Stewart wearing a Bottega Veneta suit and Sandro shirt. See Shopping Guide for more details, page 113. Styled by Victoria Collison. Grooming by Nadine Monley.
PHILIP VOLKERS/PHILIPVOLKERS.COM
24 FOUNDER’S LETTER
Dior (RTW)
800.929.Dior (3467) Dior.com
C FOR MEN
JENNIFER HALE
Founder + Editorial Director
LESLEY CAMPOY President + Publisher JENNY MURRAY Editor
PAUL MEANY
SUE CHRISPELL
Art Director
Associate Publisher, West
KELSEY McKINNON
RENEE MARCELLO
Senior Editor
Associate Publisher, East
BRIAN D. LEITCH
CRISTA VAGHI
Features Director
Account Director, California
SAMANTHA TRAINA
ALEXANDRA VON BARGEN
Fashion Editor
Account Director, New York
ALISON CLARE STEINGOLD
CAMERON HARROS
Design + Menu Editor
Director, Business Development
ELIZABETH KHURI CHANDLER
TRACY SKYTT
Arts + Culture Editor
Pacific Northwest Director
ANN SONG
MARY KENNEDY
Director of Digital + Integrated Media
Account Director, Home + Beauty
ELIZABETH VARNELL
ANNE MARIE PROVENZA
Masthead
Account Manager
Digital Editor
CATHERINE ABALOS
ANNINA MISLIN
Sales + Marketing Manager
Associate Fashion Editor
KRISTA NATALI
MARGOT FODOR
Administrative Assistant
Photo Editor
TROY FELKER
MOR WEIZMAN
Finance Associate
Art Production Assistant
SANDY HUBBARD
MEGAN MEYER
Information Technology Director
Assistant Editor
JACKIE TREITZ
ALLISON OLESKEY
Contributing Designer
Special Projects Director, SHO & Company, Inc.
ANGELA GIGLIA Managing Editor STYLE EDITOR-AT-LARGE
George Kotsiopoulos
SAN FRANCISCO EDITOR-AT-LARGE
Diane Dorrans Saeks
DESIGN EDITOR-AT-LARGE
CIRCULATION CONSULTANTS/CIRCULATION SPECIALISTS, INC. SPECIAL PROJECTS CONTRIBUTORS CONTRIBUTING EDITORS
Andrea Stanford
CONTRIBUTING EDITOR-AT-LARGE
Kendall Conrad
Greg Wolfe, Russell Marth
Jill Borenstein, Allison Cressey, Stephanie Steinman, Courtney Zupanski
Christine Lennon, Suzanne Rheinstein, Cameron Silver, Michael S. Smith,
Jamie Tisch, Nathan Turner, Mish Tworkowski, Hutton Wilkinson CONTRIBUTING WRITERS
Caroline Cagney, Molly Creeden, Cat Doran, Marshall Heyman, Deborah Schoeneman
CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS INTERNS
David Cameron, Lisa Eisner, Douglas Friedman, Lisa Romerein, Williams + Hirakawa
Fiona Park, Ada Madigan, Lindsey Cook, Ellie June, Joelle Grijalva
C PUBLISHING LLC TEYMOUR BOUTROS-GHALI
Chairman NICHOLAS HALE
Vice President + Chief Financial Officer
C MAGAZINE 1543 Seventh Street, 2nd Floor, Santa Monica, CA 90401, 310-393-3800 SUBSCRIBER SERVICE 800-775-3066
WWW.MAGAZINEC.COM WWW.CSOCIALFRONT.COM WWW.C-HOME.COM
Ben Bridge
oys ter perpe tual milg aus s
rolex
oyster perpetual and milgauss are trademarks.
founder’s Letter
W
hat makes a man? To me, it’s a combination of character, personality,
morals and ethics, a point of view and style. While childhood, family
and education all add to the equation, how you project yourself to the
world will determine how you are defined. The stories in this issue of C for Men all profile people who are doing something singular and spectacular. Doug Aitken is one of those artists on every gallery’s, museum’s and collector’s Hot List. He creates work that is beautiful, enlightening and thought-provoking, all from his Venice studio. He has a new book out that is a sweeping look at his work to date. We know he has so much more to create, so many more stories to tell, and we look forward to seeing where his career goes from here—only up, I would venture to say. Another career on the rise is that of our cover subject, Nikolaj Coster-Waldau. The rugged outdoorsman has starred in everything from “Game of Thrones” to box office hits like Oblivion. We profile Nikolaj and also present him in spring fashion fit for an active lifestyle. I’m not sure there is a sport more perfect for life in the Golden State than tennis. The world of tennis is a serious athletic pursuit, and California boasts many of the world’s top talents and fans. With CA natives Bob and Mike Bryan dominating the doubles leaderboard, here, we investigate the drought among top American men’s singles players—and how to
Founder’s Letter
resurrect the days of Pete Sampras and Andre Agassi.
Blaine Halvorson of the fashion brand MadeWorn is a man seeking perfection in his sartorial vision. He has created a world of curiosities in his Culver City studio that inspires his collections of clothing and shoes. Photographer Amanda Demme (a cool girl herself) and our features director, Brian D. Leitch, present this unique point of view. A visit to Stephanie and Tyler Mitchell’s (of Wilkes Bashford) San Francisco loft is a great example of how one’s style can permeate every decor decision. If the clothes make the man, then a home can explain a bit more of who he is. We take you inside this fashion entrepreneur’s world of city cool. Which brings me back to my opening question: What makes a man? Be it how one creates art, style, sport or career, if done to an exacting measure, it can be a recipe for success.
WE’D LOVE TO HEAR FROM YOU Please send letters to edit@magazinec.com.
C 24 MEN’S SPRING 2014
AZABRA PHOTOGRAPHY
Jennifer Hale Founder & Editorial Director
Gucci Group (Gucci)
people
WHO’S WHO BEHIND THE SCENES OF THIS MONTH’S ISSUE, PLUS THEIR FAVORITE CALIFORNIA PLACES
Philip Volkers “It’s a cross between Alice in Wonderland, Lord of the Flies and Mad Max,” says London-based photographer Philip Volkers of the Burning Man Playa in “Man on Fire” (p.29). The lensman’s work has been featured in L’Officiel; he
Hugh Stewart
also documents extreme-sporting events and Eurpoean
“We set some sort of record by shooting 12 shots in
Fashion Weeks. C SPOTS • Mendocino County
two hours,” says Sydney-based photographer Hugh
• Mount Shasta • de Young Museum
Nikolaj Coster-Waldau for “Man of the Hour” (p.80). Stewart’s work has been featured in Vogue, Vanity Fair
Steven Siebert
and Rolling Stone. C SPOTS • A drive down PCH
“I’ve always wanted to delve into
• ¡Loteria! Grill • Casbah Cafe
Southern California tennis
C People 1
culture,” explains Steven Siebert, who offers a comprehensive look at the sport in “For the Love of the Game” (p.102). “I hope this story encourages readers to go out and play, or go out and watch tennis.” C SPOTS • Malibu Farm for the best banana pancakes • Capo in Santa Monica • My tennis court in Malibu, with the blue sky as the backdrop
Amanda Demme “I have collaborated with Blaine [Halvorson] multiple times, and working with him on this issue was, as always, another inspiring
Kirstie Clements “What could be better than discussing all the plot intricacies with one of the actual actors! It was a blast,” says former Vogue Australia Editor-in-Chief Kirstie Clements, who chatted with Nikolaj Coster-Waldau for “Man of the Hour” (p.80).
partnership,” remarks L.A.-based photographer Amanda Demme, who shot “Way Out West” (p.106). Demme’s work is currently on view at Obsolete gallery in Venice. C SPOTS
C SPOTS • Sunset Tower Hotel • The Peter Marino-designed
• Small Trade Company • Eric
Dior store on Rodeo • The spa at Montage Beverly Hills
Goode’s Turtle Conservancy in
C 26 MEN’S SPRING 2014
Ojai • Obsolete gallery
STEWART: MATILDA STEWART. CLEMENTS: CARLOTTA MOYE
Stewart, who captured “Game of Thrones” star
pa n e r a i . c o m
Officine Panerai
Mediterranean Sea. “Gamma� men in training. The diver emerging from the water is wearing a Panerai compass on his wrist.
history a n d heroes. luminor marina 8 days (ref. 510) available in steel and red gold
PANERAI BOUTIQUE BEVERLY HILLS - 9490A Brighton Way - Tel. 310-228-1515 - beverlyhills@panerai.com LA JOLLA - 1137 Prospect Street - Tel. 855-459-1950 - lajolla@panerai.com Exclusively at Panerai boutiques and select authorized watch specialists.
Tommy Hilfiger
what’s hot
PHILIP VOLKERS; PHILIPVOLKERS.COM
WH (Opener) A hot-air balloon lifts off over Mike Ross’ Big Rig Jig on the Burning Man Playa.
MAN ON FIRE A dusty breeding ground of self-expression cut off from the rest of the world spurs “burners” of all walks of life to embrace civic responsibility while unleashing their inner boho spirit EDITED BY KELSEY McKINNON MEN’S SPRING 2014
C 29
<< In many ways, Black Rock City is like any typical midsize city. There’s a fire department, two daily newspapers, more than 20 radio stations, a department of public works and roads. There are also laws: gift giving, radical inclusion and a strict no-littering policy. But of course the utopian experiment that is Burning Man only exists for eight days a year, its landmarks are exotic (and erotic) art installations, and citizens wear costumes and live in RVs. The festival has evolved since the first burn in 1986, with 20 people huddling around an eight-foot man at S.F.’s Baker Beach—69,613 people attended last year. Founder Larry Harvey, a S.F.-based baby boomer, saw the desert as the ideal canvas for his antiestablishment pop-up city. There’s a surprisingly sovereign system of checks and balances, with equal value placed on freedom and civic duty (e.g., lamplighters, earth guardians and greeters). For this year’s theme, “Caravansary,” dusty highways become ancient Silk Roads and the Playa transforms into “a bazaar of the bizarre wherein treasures of every sort, from every land and age, flow in and out to be flaunted, lost, exploited and discovered.” Except in this desert souk, money is never exchanged—besides the cost of admission, $380, and Arctica ice sales to benefit local Gerlach-area charities. Aug. 25-Sept. 1; burningman.com. •
ABOVE 2013’s
sacrificial Man, atop a UFO-like platform. LEFT A full-scale replica of the Trojan Horse.
THE ESSENTIALS 1
2
3
4
5
WH (Turn) 1. Glow sticks, $4/each, amazon.com. 2. Weber travel grill, $55. 3. CamelBak, 4. Bottega Veneta scarf, $150. 5. Airstream trailer, $85,227.
$145.
LOS ANGELES
INSIDE VOICES
SMOKE AND MIRRORS
Interior designer Ken Fulk resurrects the discontinued 007 fragrance by Tocca he first discovered while shopping in Napa 15 years ago. $50; shop.kenfulk.com.
C 30 MEN’S SPRING 2014
While The Broad may not be opening its Grand Avenue doors until 2015, the team behind the new museum is already busy rallying enthusiasts with “The Un-Private Collection”—a series of conversations between artists and cultural authorities. Upcoming discussions feature Japanese sculptor/painter Takashi Murakami and writer Pico Iyer (May 29), and American visionary Eric Fischl and Steve Martin (June 23). thebroad.org. LEFT A Diller Scofidio + Renfro rendering of The Broad. BELOW Takashi Murakami.
WRITTEN BY KELSEY M C KINNON AND MEGAN MEYER. SPACESHIP: PHILIP VOLKERS; PHILIPVOLKERS.COM. TROJAN HORSE: WILLIAM THOREN. GLOW STICKS: ©ISTOCK.COM/DUNCANL. GRILL: © 2014 WEBER-STEPHEN PRODUCTS LLC. USED WITH PERMISSION. FOURTEENER BACKPACK: CAMELBAK. CANDLE AND SCARF: MOR WEIZMAN. EDDIE BAUER TRAVEL TRAILER: AIRSTREAM. MURAKAMI: CHIKA OKAZUMI ARTWORK © TAKASHI MURAKAMI/KAIKAI KIKI CO., LTD. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED
what’s hot
Jimmy Choo
WATCH THE FILM AT JIMMYCHOO.COM BEVERLY HILLS 240 NORTH RODEO DRIVE
what’s hot
OAKLAND
John Beaver of Oaktown Spice Shop.
FROM TOP Elder
& Pine menswear and vintage shop. Davis funded This Is Oakland with a Kickstarter campaign.
Medicine cabinet
Port Products Dopp Kit, $130.
From the company’s headquarters in Silverlake, online retailer The Motley offers
grooming products from more than 40 leading labels—all of which are carefully tested by the site’s founders, siblings Matthew and Madison Ruggieri. “We wanted to approach men’s grooming from a more sophisticated, educated angle,” explains Madison. The duo recently introduced Port Products to the selection—the Ruggieris’ third in-house line (after The Motley and Buckler’s), which includes a detoxifying face wash, pre-shave and daily moisturizer—along with new pieces from Malin + Goetz. Says Matthew, “With skincare you want something high tech, with new-age ingredients that are super-effective.” themotley.com.
WH (Bits)
LOS ANGELES
CANNED HEAT
Golden Road Brewing opened in 2011 as a neighborhood pub with an on-site production facility, which produced 24,000 barrels of artisanal beer last year. Spring offerings include the new 329 Lager—named after the Golden State’s envied days of sunshine per year—along with staples Cabrillo ale and Golden Road Hefeweizen. Also in store for May: the return of the brewery’s Heal the Bay IPA, a malt-bodied brew that benefits the eco-friendly organization and its efforts to improve Cali’s coastline. 5410 W. San Fernando Rd., L.A., 213-373-4677; goldenroad.la. Heal the Bay IPA, $11.99/four-pack.
C 32 MEN’S SPRING 2014
Daniel Arsham’s Eroded Basketballs, 2013.
WEST HOLLYWOOD
PLANET HOLLYWOOD
Brooklyn-based artist Daniel Arsham brings his portfolio to WeHo’s OHWOW this April with “Kick the Tires and Light the Fires.” Commercial objects—Goodyear tires and basketballs—are molded out of rocks and minerals, such as obsidian, quartz, volcanic ash and glacial dust. Apr. 5-May 3; oh-wow.com.
WRITTEN BY MEGAN MEYER. ELDER & PINE AND JOHN BEAVER: KRISTEN LOCKEN. ERODED BASKETBALLS: COURTESY OF THE ARTIST AND OHWOW, LOS ANGELES
TOUR GUIDE From Piedmont Avenue to Temescal Alley, former Harper’s Bazaar Editor Melissa Davis releases This Is Oakland ($34.99, Acorn Press) in May, an insider’s guide to 90 of the city’s hot spots— including attractions such as the Classic Cars West showroom, Hog’s Apothecary beer hall, Temescal Alley Barber Shop and Slicer Pizzeria.
Etro SPA
what’s hot
WALLFLOWER
Enjoy fresh scones and beignets on the cedar patio or grab coffee and pastries to go at the walk-up window. VENICE
Neighborhood Watch
From his Inglewood studio, artist Kour Pour has staked his ground in the international art scene with oversize neon paintings inspired by the colorful Persian weaves found in his father’s U.K. carpet shop and various auction catalogs. Flying horses and ancient warriors dance across canvases—each of which takes several months to create. kourpour.com.
After opening Superba Snack Bar in 2012 and Culver City’s Vietnamese cafe East Borough (oxtail phocatini, anyone?) this past winter, Paul Hibler is rolling out the dough for his newest culinary venture, Superba Food and Bread. Catherine Johnson and Rebecca Rudolph of Design, Bitches (Superba Snack Bar, Coolhaus and in-progress Status Kuo) installed a two-ton bread oven from Italy behind a glassed-in kitchen, where three square meals are prepped daily. The eatery also makes fresh afternoon bicycle deliveries of rye and sourdough loaves straight to your doorstep. 1906 Lincoln Blvd., Venice; superbafoodandbread.com.
Kour Pour in front of Heavenly Horses, 2013.
WH (Bits)
The drama in Westeros and Essos continues as “Game of Thrones” premieres its fourth season on April 6. Actress Natalie Dormer (aka Margaery Tyrell, the widowed successor to Lady Olenna Tyrell) hints: “[Another] wedding is never a boring event in this world.” The show tapes July through November primarily in Belfast, with a 200-plus cast (including Nikolaj Coster-Waldau, p. 80) Dormer describes as “a big happy family.” The 32-year-old actress also found time to pick up the role of Cressida in The Hunger Games: Mockingjay—Part 1, which opens in November. For Dormer, cult followings are nothing new: “These are epic projects that—maybe because of their genesis in incredible books—stimulate a lot of loyalty.” Someday, she says, she’ll try more domestic roles.
Actress Natalie Dormer. RIGHT
Dormer on the set of “Game of Thrones.”
C 34 MEN’S SPRING 2014
WRITTEN BY MEGAN MEYER. SUPERBA: MOR WEIZMAN. KOUR POUR: STEFAN SIMCHOWITZ. DORMER: JASONMCDONALDPHOTOGRAPHY.COM. “GAME OF THRONES”: KEITH BERSTEIN/HBO
LET THE GAMES BEGIN
Bally
Sight Seeing
Dior Homme adds a textured edge to its spring collection of geometric-print suits with the launch of BlackTie 193S sunglasses—a trio of black, burgundy and blue frames wrapped in leather. 315 N. Rodeo Dr., B.H., 310-247-8003. BlackTie 193S sunglasses in burgundy, $860.
SUIT YOURSELF Inspired by classic ’70s trunks, the Solid & Striped line is straight out of a Slim Aarons scene. Pieces are made with a quick-drying fabric woven in Europe and come in colorful solid, striped or gingham styles. Signature details include cream-colored drawstrings and waistbands with blue stitching— and swimmers can customize with vintage short or long “California”-size options and monogramming. solidandstriped.com.
BOTTOMS UP
Distiller Farid Dormishian puts into practice years of bartending and fermentation research at UC Berkeley with Spirits—a RichmondFalcon Spirits based liquor label partly inspired by Dormishian’s grandmother’s ranch in Iran, where bottles of ripening pears hung from trees, later to be infused with brandy. Spring’s concoction, The Raz: Muddle raspberry and lemon thyme and top with a blend of 1½ oz. Botanica Spiritus gin, a squeeze of Meyer lemon, 1 oz. warm water and ½ T. lavender honey. falconspirits.com.
WH (Bits)
Botanica Spiritus gin, $40.
FROM TOP The Classic in cream-and-navy Las Brisas stripe, $150. Looks from the 2014 collection.
THINK-IN Michael Milken’s Santa Monica-based nonprofit, nonpartisan
economic think tank hosts an esteemed group at the annual Milken Institute Global Conference April 27-30 at The Beverly Hilton. milkeninstitute.org. TIME TO GO Mercedes-Benz and Palo Alto-based smartwatch brand Pebble launched a prototype at the International Consumer Electronics Show in Vegas—think Waze app meets Rolex. Drivers can keep tabs on parking location, fuel level, music and tire pressure. Enjoy the ride. mbusa.com.. C 36 MEN’S SPRING 2014
The device also signals incoming calls, emails and text messages.
WRITTEN BY MEGAN MEYER. DIOR HOMME: GAETAN BERNARD. SOLID & STRIPED: JESSICA HAYE & CLARK HSIAO (THE COLLABORATIONIST). FALCON SPIRITS: FARID DORMISHIAN & KATHERINE YICK
what’s hot
Brioni
Peter Dayton artwork hangs in the new Beverly Hills store.
The Italian Job
Ever wonder what a Stefano Pilati-designed Maserati would look like? From the closet to the garage, Zegna outfits the modern gentleman
EVENT: GETTY IMAGES FOR ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA. BAG: ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA MASERATI COLLECTION. RUNWAY: ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA COUTURE
what’s hot
BY MOLLY CREEDEN
“In men’s we used to live more quietly,” says Ermenegildo Zegna (“Gildo”) from the terrace of the brand’s new Beverly Hills store. He remembers the customs of men like his grandfather—who laid the foundation of the company 104 years ago. “I think accessorization and informalization have created a different speed.” The house’s new designer, Stefano Pilati, who came to Zegna last January after eight years at YSL, has certainly accelerated things—masterminding looks in his Spring 2014 collection that uphold the Zegna standard but don’t for one second seem stuck in history. He incorporated his signature “broken suit,” mixing the jacket from one suit with the trousers of another, and a concept called After Six: suits that can walk out of the office into an evening event, staying far away from tuxedo territory. The pieces have found a new home in the Beverly Hills shop, which, on an evening last November, celebrated its grand opening and the unveiling of its ad campaign featuring actor Jamie Dornan, shot by Inez and Vinoodh. A crowd that included Jeremy Renner, Gavin Rossdale, Edward Norton and Sharon Stone explored the 5,800-squarefoot, three-story space, up the street from its previous location on Rodeo Drive. One of three U.S. locations to offer the couture collection, the store, designed by architect Peter Marino, is outfitted with modernist furnishings that nod to its Italian heritage—a Gio Ponti sofa and two lounge chairs taken from Spring the Hotel dei Principi in Rome—but also its California zip code—surfboard2014 inspired art by Peter Dayton. “Our customers have more and more of a sensitive eye,” explains Zegna. “And they’ll recognize the difference between a more masculine, corporate, business-like store and the more casual one we have here.” And how better to match the need for speed in menswear than with a fast car? In honor of Maserati’s centennial anniversary, they collaborated with Zegna on 100 Maserati Quattroporte sedans, equipped with V8 twin turbo engines that go from 0 to 62 miles an hour in 4.7 seconds. Luxe suiting fabric is juxtaposed with greige interiors in soft leather. The cars also come with a well-appointed Owner’s Collection— leather travel bags, sunglasses and an exclusive Zegna silk fabric. Full speed ahead. •
WH (Bits)
C 38 MEN’S SPRING 2014
FROM TOP Stefano Pilati. Ed Norton, Pilati and Gildo Zegna. Anna Zegna and Gavin Rossdale. Jeremy Renner. Pieces from the Owner’s Collection. Maserati Quattroporte sedan.
Crossing the globe in two seConds.
Jaeger LeCoultre
Grande Reverso Ultra Thin Duo. Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 854/1. two dials driven by a single movement: for the very first time, the iconic reverso reveals a second face within its ultra-thin case. it combines two back-to-back dials to offer its owner a fascinating journey through time. A refined blend of style and watchmaking performance stemming from 180 years of expertise cultivated by the inventors of the vallĂŠe de Joux.
Yo U d e s e rv e A r e A l wAtC h.
what’s hot
Deus Ex Machina From aerodynamic boats to dexterous robots, Greg Lynn designs a futuristic world BY NICOLAS STECHER
Fifteen years ago, UCLA bought the first robot of any architecture school in the world, and we didn’t know what to do with it. So we started using it like a manufacturing tool,” explains architect Greg Lynn, relaxing on a brown leather couch in the hangar of his Venice studio. The idea being, if one could cut out a rectangular wall panel with traditional machinery, they could now cut shapelier forms. If typically they dealt with flat materials, they could now use curved ones. “So a lot of what I initially did was all about how to use digital robotics to make different-shaped building components, and to make things in a new vocabulary. Now, a decade and a half later, every architecture school has one of those robots, so for me that innovative work is done, and the next stage is: How do you bring robots into architecture as part of the structure?” And when Lynn talks about bringing robotics into the structure, he means fully embedded, literally at one with the structure. As in, rooms and entire houses that move, roll and spin about on an axis. The real-world applications could be as simple as beds that move to the side of the room in the morning and return in the evening, to houses that somersault to maximize surface area throughout the day. In his “RV Prototype,” no surface area—walls, floor, ceiling—is ever at a loss for function. If this all seems prohibitively conceptual, or highly theoretical to the point of intellectual fantasy, think again. Lynn is not a navel-gazing conceptual artist, living on the fringes of esoteric thought and artistic expression. Having graduated from Miami University, Ohio, with both philosophy and architectural degrees, and having earned a Master of Architecture from Princeton, Lynn has accepted positions at the University of Applied Arts Vienna, UCLA and the Yale School of Architecture. His “Recycled Toy Caption tk Furniture,” which fits old plastic toys together to form amorphous tables and furniture pieces, earned him a Golden Lion award at the 2008 Venice Biennale. He has designed jewelry for Swarovski and sold fur-upholstered Duke and Duchess Ravioli Chairs for Vitra and limited-edition Tea and Coffee Towers for Alessi. In 2001, Time named Lynn one of the 21st century’s 100 Most Innovative People, and Forbes followed suit in 2005, selecting him as one of the 10 most influential living architects. For his next milestone in design, Lynn is almost finished building the GF42—a futuristic composite-material trimaran that’s part minivan, part Formula One speedster, which he hopes to sail to Hawaii this summer. So far, no word on whether it transforms into a robot, although one would be well advised to keep an eye on the horizon. •
FROM TOP Greg
Lynn in front of his Craftsman-style Venice home; he designed the fountain of plastic sharks carved by a robot. The “RV Prototype.” A rendering of the GF42, currently under production. Robots at the IDEAS lab in Playa Vista.
C 40 MEN’S SPRING 2014
LYNN: KEVIN SCANLON/ARTMIX CREATIVE. TRIMARAN: CFDMAX. RV AND ROBOTS: GREG LYNN FORM
WH (Bits)
BRIONI
Barney’s
BARNEYS.COM
NE W YORK
BOSTON
CHICAGO
L AS VEGAS
LOS ANGELES
SAN FRANCISCO
F O R I N S I D E R FA S H I O N A C C E S S: T H E W I N D O W. B A R N E Y S . C O M
SCOT TSDALE
S E AT T L E
PROMOTION
Get in Gear S PRING FORWA R D IN ST Y LE
BALLY
Shades Duffel Bag in Grigio, $1,050. 340 N. Rodeo Dr., Beverly Hills, 310-271-3310; 3333 S. Bristol St., #2255, Costa Mesa, 714-557-1914.
OFFICINE PANERAI PAM00511—Luminor Marina 8 Days Oro Rosso—44mm, $26,500. 9490A Brighton Way, Beverly Hills, 310-228-1515; 1137 Prospect St., La Jolla, 858-459-1950; panerai.com.
SANDRO
YALE navy-blue varsity jacket, $625. 310 N. Beverly Dr., Beverly Hills, 310-281-0083; 2033 Fillmore St., San Francisco, 415-292-4841.
BELL & ROSS
Trunk Show
BR03-92 Carbon, $3,900. Westime, 8569 W. Sunset Blvd., West Hollywood, 310-289-0808; Shreve & Co., 200 Post St., San Francisco, 415-421-2600.
PAUL & SHARK
Men’s Bovine leather bag, $765. 449 N. Rodeo Dr., Beverly Hills, 310-246-9744; paulshark.it.
TAG HEUER CARRERA Calibre 17 Chronograph with anthracite dial and blue perforated leather strap, $5,700. 2855 Stevens Creek Blvd., Santa Clara, 408-247-0620; 3720 S. Las Vegas Blvd., Las Vegas, NV, 702-380-2820; shop.tagheuer.com.
VACHERON CONSTANTIN
Overseas Chronograph, $48,400. South Coast Plaza, 3333 Bristol St., Costa Mesa, 714-955-4057; 365 N. Rodeo Dr., Beverly Hills, 310-598-2026.
Giorgio Armani
AVAILABLE AT MAGGIE B & MISTER B 2670 Via de la Valle, Del Mar 858.755.7525
NEW BR 03 GoldEN HERitaGE CollECtioN Ø 42 mm · www.bellross.com
Shreve Bell + Ross
STYLE
BAY WATCH
WRITTEN BY MEGAN MEYER. CEDRIC VIOLLET/LOUIS VUITTON MALLETIER
New essentials from Paris perfectly suited for NorCal
Style (Opener)
Louis Vuitton presents its Icons collection—a return to basic style— throughout the streets of San Francisco, sported by Marin County native and aspiring filmmaker Sam Hayes. The idea was to build on the label’s signature pieces—including the Harrington blouson, Macintosh raincoat and leather Perfecto jacket— adding raw denim, slim-fitting chinos, neutral-colored knits and outerwear accented with Damier-print lining that “are easy to wear and combine with any man’s wardrobe,” explains Paris-based Men’s Studio and Style Director Kim Jones. Along with Vuitton’s Porte-Documents Voyage leather briefcase, which will be a mainstay in the Icons lineup, must-have spring items include cream-colored trenches and chambray button-downs—while future collections will continue to add new colors and fabrics in a similarly timeless aesthetic. 295 N. Rodeo Dr., B.H., 310-859-0457; 233 Geary St., S.F., 415-391-6200; louisvuitton.com.
Washed denim jacket, $1,280, similar styles available, and washed slim jeans, $680.
EDITED BY SAMANTHA TRAINA MEN’S SPRING 2014
C 45
Welcome Stranger chinos, $165, and oxford, $120. Vans shoes, $80.
HAYES VALLEY
The Outsiders Swim trunks, $330.
A trunk displays a Filson duffel, a Welcome Stranger cap and Sebago shoes.
Welcome Stranger—a menswear boutique from Azalea and Rand+Statler’s Catherine Chow—has a new eponymous collection of colored chinos, minimal knits and basic button-ups, available exclusively at the outpost in Hayes Valley. “We are creating the ultimate all-weather, all-season menswear based on the S.F. lifestyle,” explains Chow. The store opened in 2010 in a lofty ’20s space where leather trunks and reclaimed-wood furnishings house functional pieces from leading labels, along with new button-ups from Folk and outerwear by LA Panoplie just in for spring. welcomestranger.com.
TRUNK SHOW
Make a splash this spring in Salvatore Ferragamo’s debut collection of swimsuits—inspired by the Italian label’s signature silk tie prints and available in green, red and blue. 357 N. Rodeo Dr., B.H., 310-273-9990; 233 Geary St., S.F., 415-391-6565.
Style (Turn)
SANTA MONICA
TRUE BLUE
VENICE
SHORT STORY
The shelves at Mise en Scène boast unique artwork by L.A. artist Kelly Lamb.
“My desire has always been to create experiences for the consumer that evoke curiosity,” explains entrepreneur Andrew Pollard, who opened Mise en Scène in November. The store’s Japanese- and Scandinavianinspired interior is chock-full of grooming products from Prospector Co., classic jeans by 3x1 and separates by Saturdays NYC. French for “setting the stage,” the store’s moniker reflects Pollard’s hope to “connect our brands’ unique stories to the people who enter our space.” Keep an eye out for Pollard’s upcoming men’s collection, hitting shelves in September. 1638 Abbot Kinney Blvd., Venice, 310-452-8700.
C 46 MEN’S SPRING 2014
After the launch of Triple Black last winter, L.A.-based denim line 7 For All Mankind introduces Triple Blue this spring—a collection of specially made jeans that retain the same vibrant indigo color after 40 trips through the washer. 395 Santa Monica Pl., Ste. 106, S.M., 310-393-2527; 7forallmankind.com. Triple Blue deep indigo Slimmy jeans, $198.
WRITTEN BY MEGAN MEYER. WELCOME STRANGER: SCOTT HAMMEL. MISE EN SCÈNE: KARLA DIAZ CANO
STYLE
paulshark.it
Paul & Shark
AVENTURA MALL | MADISON AVENUE | RODEO DRIVE
STYLE
CUTTING EDGE
LOS ANGELES
STREET STYLE After decades of collecting vintage tees and three years after the introduction of his eponymous label, designer Kelly Cole is switching things up with the launch of a casual line. Codesigned by Sean Hornbeak, the debut collection includes denim in classic washes, fitted T-shirts and comfy knits that create a “basic uniform,” Cole explains. The line’s neutral color palette and standout symbols—including peace signs and skulls—are inspired by grunge-label Hysteric Glamour and skateboard company Powell-Peralta. Says Cole, “We try to tell graphic stories that have meaning to us…to infuse some consciousness into what we do.” 175 S. La Brea Ave., L.A., 323-692-5012; kellycoleusa.com.
Saint Laurent leather backpack in Pinaskullada, $850, similar styles available.
Saint Laurent has teamed up with L.A. newcomer Luke Thomas—the artist behind King Tuff (Thomas’ brother) and Nirvana’s eccentric merchandise—to create fresh prints for the spring collection, including the Pinaskullada design, which will be emblazoned onto tees, backpacks and sneakers. 469 N. Rodeo Dr., B.H., 310-271-4110; ysl.com.
Dregs 37 Ditch Surf Skateboard. MOOREA Octopus print swim trunks, $250.
FLIP OUT St. Tropez-based swimwear label Vilebrequin joins Santa Monica’s Fairmont Miramar Hotel & Bungalows for a collection of octopus-printed skateboards (exclusively for guests) and an on-property boutique stocking colorful trunks and apparel. vilebrequin.com.
Charcoal crew-neck T-shirt, $55, and raw slim straight jeans, $160.
Crew-neck sweatshirt in washed black, $124.
Club House BEVERLY HILLS
Italian label Tod’s recently opened a J.P. Club in Beverly Hills, offering men the ultimate appointment-only shopping experience—think leather lounge chairs, a full bar and a plush private patio. “Men are very sensitive to exclusivity and real quality in L.A.,” explains Tod’s President and CEO Diego Della Valle. The club invites men to flip through magazines and enjoy the whiskey selection while they shop the label’s Sartorial collection of fine leather loafers, lace-ups and briefcases with the expert staff. Customers may add personal touches with custom leather and initialing. 333 N. Rodeo Dr., B.H., 310-285-0591. The Italian-inspired interiors and outdoor terrace at the J.P. Club in Beverly Hills.
C 48 MEN’S SPRING 2014
WRITTEN BY MEGAN MEYER. KELLY COLE: DAN MONICK; MODEL: KEIHAN AT CLICK
Style (Bits)
Parmigiani
Special Delivery
STYLE
Months after a Kickstarter campaignfunded launch, Portland-designed and L.A.-crafted Bluer Denim is making waves again with its Home Try-On service. “I hate jeans shopping,” founder Jeffrey Shafer explains of the inspiration behind the ship-anywhere program, which allows shoppers to skip the stores and receive three pairs at home, pick their favorites and send back the rest. For Shafer, the best jeans should “feel like second skin.” bluerdenim.com.
High-top Aikane sneakers in white, $550.
.
Premium denim, $98-$148.
BALLIN’
Calling all sneakerheads: Swiss label Bally is releasing limited-edition calf-leather hightops in three standout color combinations, available exclusively at Saks Fifth Avenue. 9634 Wilshire Blvd., B.H., 310-275-4211.
Style (Bits) SHELF LIFE LOS ANGELES
DIVE IN
Cartier introduces Calibre de Cartier Diver watches this May— featuring a unidirectional bezel, glow-in-the-dark displays and a thick crystal casing that’s water-resistant up to 984 feet—available in tough steel or rose gold on a black rubber strap. 370 N. Rodeo Dr., B.H., 310-275-4272.
C 50 MEN’S SPRING 2014
Baxter of California grooming products line the shelves at the boutique at The Grove.
VENICE
FRAMEWORK Toms launches an optical line this spring with 21 styles in 105 color combinations inspired by classic ‘60s and ‘70s shapes. 1344 Abbot Kinney Blvd., Venice, 310-314-9700. Acetate Addis frames, $149.
WRITTEN BY MEGAN MEYER. BLUER: BRIAN WALKER LEE
Calibre de Cartier Diver watch in steel and rubber, $8,200.
Notorious for its stash of must-have menswear—from Converse sneakers and Tellason jeans to separates from Levi’s Made and Crafted—independent shop Unionmade added a second Los Angeles location in February. The new flagship comes four years after the store’s launch in San Francisco and features industrial wooden displays and black shelving that will boast five exclusive Alden leather kicks. 189 The Grove Dr., L.A., 323-965-2248.
b e v e r ly h i l l s
b e v e r ly c en t e r
w es t fi e l d to pa n ga
s o u t h coa s t p l a z a
fa s h i o n va l l e y
Salvatore Ferragamo
sa n fr a n c i s co
w es t fi e l d va l l e y fa i r
s h o p fe r r aga m o.co m
STYLE Trend Emporio Armani bag, $1,545.
Marc Jacobs
Bowers & Wilkins headphones, $200, mrporter.com.
Silver Fox
Dior Homme shirt, $380.
Lighten up your spring wardrobe with seasonal pops of white and shades of gray
Tommy Hilfiger sunglasses, $135.
Paul & Shark belt, $210. Kent & Curwen jeans, $195.
Maison Martin Margiela sweater, $590, mrporter.com. Saint Laurent by Hedi Slimane sneakers, $575.
Style (Bits)
Balenciaga bag, $1,985. Tommy Bahama beanie, $108.
Turnbull & Asser pocket square, $95, mrporter.com.
Hermès bicycle.
Bottega Veneta Tom Ford espadrilles, $550.
C 52 MEN’S SPRING 2014
Brioni
KENT & CURWEN JEANS: MOR WEIZMAN. SEE SHOPPING GUIDE FOR MORE DETAILS, PAGE 113
Bell & Ross watch, $5,900.
Berluti
b erlut i .c om
Jeremy I ron s, i n it i a t e d by Pe ter S el ler s
SOU TH COAST PL A Z A, COSTA MESA - MI A MI DESIGN DISTR ICT, MI A MI MADISON AVENUE, NEW YORK - BERGDOR F GOODM A N, NEW YOR K
STYLE 1
2
Sean Connery filming Thunderball in 1965.
Style (Bits)
Game Time
From early tee-offs to extra innings, the season’s active watches arrive not a minute too soon
4
1. Patek Philippe, $36,400. 2. Jaeger-LeCoultre, $14,100. 3. Rolex, $8,950. 4. Tudor, $4,425. 5. TAG Heuer, $7,800.
5
C 54 MEN’S SPRING 2014
CONNERY: THE KOBAL COLLECTION AT ART RESOURCE, NY. SEE SHOPPING GUIDE FOR MORE DETAILS, PAGE 113
3
Montblanc Meisterstück Crafted for New Heights Ninety years ago, Montblanc created a writing instrument that became an icon far beyond writing culture: the Montblanc Meisterstück – a symbol for the everlasting quest of achievement. To celebrate 90 years of Meisterstück, the new Meisterstück 90 Years has red gold-plated fittings and a nib specially engraved with a commemorative “90”. Visit and shop Montblanc.com
south coast plaza montbl a nc.com
STYLE spotlight SANTA BARBARA
California Dreaming Steven Tiller moved across the country to reinvent the 1960s shoe label SeaVees and, in turn, himself BY MARA PETERS
Steven Tiller
There are two ways to get through life: living your dream and just living. Steven Tiller, SeaVees CEO and chief designer, understands the difference, because he’s done both. “Before SeaVees, I was going through the motions. I was living in Boston, designing shoes, traveling the world, but I was checked out,” he says from his office, a converted garage space near the Funk Zone in Santa Barbara. It was only when Tiller discovered a vintage shoe in a secondhand shop in Tokyo in 2005 that life took a dramatic turn. “It was just crazy, holding an old SeaVees in my hand with the license plate logo off center, the sky-blue herringbone sole, the ‘Sea’ in the name, the wishbone V, created in 1964—my heart just started pounding. This shoe needed to be resurrected, and, in a way, so did I.” Three years ago, he quit his job, acquired the heritage brand and moved his family to California. Now, as SeaVees celebrates its 50th anniversary—the line ranges from classic sneakers (the Baja Slip On, the Hermosa Plimsoll and the Westwood Tennis shoe) to sandals and desert boots. Each style has a name, date and story derived from a notable California event in the 1960s. “The ’60s always fascinated me. I was the kid who loved the feel of a vinyl record and read Kerouac’s On the Road a million times. It was a period of such optimism and intellectual depth, also with a grittier darker side,” he says. Tiller has seamlessly bridged the past with the present—a new Hollister collaboration is particularly appealing to 20-somethings. “It’s pretty empowering,” he says as a breeze from the Pacific passes through the metal garage doors. “Everyone should have a California dream.” seavees.com. •
CLOCKWISE FROM ABOVE LEFT 3 Eye
Chukka, $178. Sorrento Sand shoe, $148. The Army Issue Low Vintage Surf sneaker, $88, part of a collaboration with Katin. Baja Slip On, $82.
C 56 MEN’S SPRING 2014
Hermosa Plimsoll Vintage Surf sneakers, $98, shot for the 2014 lookbook. FROM TOP A snapshot from California Stories on SeaVees.com, a film/photo/writing series about living in California. The Orwells perform for Session 2 of SeaVees’ Parking Space Sessions.
TILLER AND HERMOSA PLIMSOLL SNEAKERS: CHRIS ORWIG. AIRSTREAM: CARA ROBBINS. PARKING SPACE SESSIONS AND ARMY ISSUE SNEAKER: CRISTI SILVA. 3 EYE CHUKKA AND BAJA SLIP ON: JEFF CLARK
Style (Bits)
Southern California’S
fineSt WatCh
ColleCtion discoVer more than 40 watch Brands including Blancpain Bottega Veneta Breguet BurBerry BVlgari cartier chanel fine jewelry chopard daVid yurman gucci
South Coast Plaza
harry winston hermès iwc jaeger-lecoultre louis Vuitton montBlanc omega piaget porsche design rolex tiffany & co. tourBillon tourneau
Vacheron constantin Van cleef & arpels
jaeger-lecoultre ©2014 south coast plaza
partial listing
san diego fwy (405) at Bristol st., costa mesa, ca 800.782.8888 southcoastplaza.com
STYLE GET THE LOOK Tommy Bahama swim trunks, $98.
Nikolaj Coster-Waldau wearing a Prada shirt, $1,150. Panerai watch, $8,300.
Swell Season With the summer months upon us, pack up your Hawaiian prints and hit the beach
Tommy Bahama paddleball set, $79, frontgate.com.
Gucci sneakers, $425, mrporter.com.
Style (GTL) Saint Laurent shirt, $890, mrporter.com.
Prada bag, $2,200.
Mollusk hat, $35.
Berluti wallet, $955.
Hess handplane, $140. Sandro sweater, $375, mrporter.com.
$39.95, T. Adler Books.
C 58 MENâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S SPRING 2014
COSTER-WALDAU: HUGH STEWART. BOOK: TADLERBOOKS.COM. SEE SHOPPING GUIDE FOR MORE DETAILS, PAGE 113
Salvatore Ferragamo sunglasses, $375.
beverly drive, beverly center, fillmore street
Sandro
Lowell Hotel
2 8 E A S T S I X T Y T H I R D S T R E E T, N E W Y O R K , N E W Y O R K 212 838 1400 R E S E RV A T I O N S @ L O W E L L H O T E L . C O M W W W. L O W E L L H O T E L . C O M
DESIGN
Design (Opener) SPEED RACERS
MARK MEYERS
The most lust-worthy day trip you’ll take this spring is to the Bugatti retrospective at Oxnard’s Mullin Automotive Museum
Ettore Bugatti and Louis de Monge built one airplane: the cutting-edge 1937 100P. Le Rêve Bleu’s painstaking reproduction debuts at the Mullin Automotive Museum.
WRITTEN AND EDITED BY ALISON CLARE STEINGOLD
MEN’S SPRING 2014
C 61
design PrOFILE CLOCKWISE In
its day, the 100P would have set a world speed record. Carlo Bugatti. Carlo Bugatti’s banjo design, 1898. The Art of Bugatti, $35, shop.mullinautomotivemuseum.com. 1936 Bugatti Type 57SC Competition Roadster.
I
t’s model behavior. “Two years after I fell in love with prewar French cars, I came to realize that the top of the mountain belonged to Bugatti,” says Peter Mullin, chairman and founder of the Mullin Automotive Museum in Oxnard. The avid collector of those Art Deco and Machine Age relics—the bombshell Delahayes and bullet-like Voisins— then acquired his first Bugatti: a 1929 Type 37A Supercharged Grand Prix Racecar. He didn’t stop there. Years later, the result is a building filled with breathtaking thoroughbreds of streamlined steel. This spring’s “Art of Bugatti” retrospective pays tribute to multiple generations of “an extraordinary family of artists, engineers and artisans,” as he describes patriarch Carlo, the instrument and furniture maker; son Rembrandt, the bronze sculptor; son Ettore and grandson Jean, both masters of automotive design. With more than 50 pieces of furniture, paintings and sculptures; pictures, drawings, factory artifacts, in addition to the world’s largest private collection of Bugatti automobiles, the exhibition is the most formidable assemblage seen to date. See early carriages to racecars, roadsters and coupes, and, for good measure, the recordbreaking 2011 Veyron 16.4. The crown jewel, however, has two wings and three tires. Last year, Mullin read about the Bugatti 100P restoration efforts of Scott Wilson in Tulsa, Oklahoma. Ettore had designed just one airplane, in 1937—a technical marvel that would have set the world record for speed, but because it had been hidden from the German army, it disappeared into aviation lore. In 2009, Wilson, John Lawson and Simon Birney began an almost impossible feat: creating an identical replica with the same materials, handcrafting and Bugatti patents. Mullin calls it a “missing piece” to the family’s oeuvre, which will debut at the show. The key phrase? Never before seen. Some items are on loan from Caroline Bugatti and her husband, Syril; others are permanent. “I received a call from France notifying me that the famous Schlumpf Reserve Collection was going to be sold. After about three minutes of deliberation, I decided to buy the whole collection of 61 cars. We kept 32 that relate to our collection and sold off the balance to other collectors.” Marvels, yes, and machines. “Cars are meant to be driven,” adds Mullin. “They are also art…rolling sculpture of the highest order.” Through Dec. 2014; 1421 Emerson Ave., Oxnard, 805-385-5400; mullinautomotivemuseum.com. •
100P: MARK MEYERS. CARLO BUGATTI: COURTESY OF THE MULLIN AUTOMOTIVE MUSEUM. BANJO AND ROADSTER: MICHAEL FURMAN
Design (Turn)
C 62 MEN’S SPRING 2014
Las Vegas PoolAria parties all grown up.
Welcome to your very own oasis. Whether you want to relax at one of three luxurious pools or get a little loud at Liquid Pool Lounge, each is tailored to whatever mood youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re in. Aria.com Live the M life at this MGM Resorts InternationalÂŽ Destination.
design
TOPLESS THRILLS
Stay cool on PCH this summer with a red-hot, high-performance ride
BY NICOLAS STECHER
MERCEDES-BENZ SLS AMG FINAL EDITION Benz bids farewell to its flagship vehicle—the hand-built SLS AMG—and with it a machine that firmly entrenched the Tristar’s position in the pantheon of hyper performance. This spring’s “Final Edition” will be limited to 350 cars (both coupe and roadster) and features an exclusive exposed carbon-fiber hood and rear spoiler. What you’ll really want to get your hands on, though, is the Final Edition’s boosted 583-horsepower, 6.3-liter V8 before Benz phases the AMG engine out. It’s one of the finest power plants on earth and will be achingly missed. Price upon request; mbusa.com.
BENTLEY CONTINENTAL GT V8 S While many bemoaned Bentley’s offering a V8 as an alternative to its burly W12 engine, the truth of the matter is the V8 S is in some ways a better vehicle. Lighter with a more central weight, the twin-turbocharged GT V8 S convertible pairs Bentley’s peerless opulence (neck warmer, massaging seats) with a more efficient engine (500-plus-mile range). Bristling with 521 horsepower and 502 lb.-ft. of torque, it’s not going to leave you longing for power…or missing its full-throttle growl. It still sounds deliciously terrifying. From $194,620; bentleymotors.com.
Design (Bits)
FERRARI CALIFORNIA T You could aim for the otherworldly LaFerrari and its $1.4 million price tag, but if you’re not one of Modena’s favorite customers and still want a Prancing Horse on a (sort of) real-world budget, there’s the just-announced California T. Named after the famed 250 GT Spider that drove Ferris Bueller on his day off, the updated California is Ferrari’s first turbocharged car in over two decades. Thanks to its new Pininfarina-designed body, she still has plenty of Italian curves. Price upon request; california-t.ferrari.com.
PRODUCT PIPELINE
House numbers, $9 each.
C 64 MEN’S SPRING 2014
Art of Board’s colorful, randomly patterned hand-cut tiles, floor mats and house numbers are so innovative and stylish, it’s hard to fathom that the pieces are culled from scuffed and shredded skateboard decks. The Tiles, $20/four. Orange County company’s recycling program—a network of shops around the globe—is the first of its kind, too. Check the website for participating I Ride, I Recycle shops. artofboard.com.
S W I S S M A D E S I N C E 18 58
IT SEALS THE MOST INCREDIBLE BONDS
w w w.furrer-jacot.com
Furrer Jacot
POST & GRANT, SAN FRANCISCO
STANFORD SHOPPING CENTER, PALO ALTO
SHREVE.COM
800-5-SHREVE
design
True to Form
A concrete wonder by Jim Jennings meets the modernist mood of Nicole Hollis
Interior designer Nicole Hollis makes a brave distinction. “I’m not a great ‘decorator,’” she says. “Everything’s structured, and architectural, and materials. Most of my work has been in wood, or metals, glass and leather, hide and raw linen—more textural than patterns on top of patterns, fringe and curtains.” Looking at 2014’s Hall Winery Visitor Center, a recent slew of residential projects and this year’s launch of a hospitality division (plus forthcoming Cairdean Vineyards), you realize she’s right. She isn’t exactly a champion of chintz. Take, for example, this recent update of a 1996 Jim Jennings marvel high atop San Francisco’s Telegraph Hill. Her elemental style works in tandem with the stark, iconic tower of concrete and glass. Her cues: the owner, an avid collector of both modern art and architecture across the world; and the building itself. “We wanted the house to remain as it was. Not to scream 1990s—but not to scream any other era, either.” Hollis achieved this using raw materials. “[The owner] wanted it to feel warmer without meddling with the original architecture, and that’s when we stepped in with the walnut.” Her firm enhanced the concrete, added Calcutta marble and contrasted the existing maple flooring with sleek cabinetry in warm, rosy walnut. Glossy Kartell stools take refuge beneath two-inch marble slabs at the kitchen island. A stainless Miele hood, selected for its thinner profile, and a flat, black Gaggenau stove and oven create a high-tech, less-is-more tableau that would make Dieter Rams proud. Other appliances are hidden to promote a clean, polished feel. Ultimately, by standing by such a strong design vocabulary, Hollis remained true to the integrity of the building. “There’s a rigidity to it, but also quite an organic feel. I think the goal is to not look applied. It looks like it’s always been there.” nicolehollis.com. •
FROM BELOW Scraped marble adds hewn textural interest over the sink. Hollis designed a custom leather stool underneath the vanity; glass sections separate ties and socks. In the master bathroom, counters were raised to accommodate the owner’s height; instead of dropped shades, Hollis sandblasted the windows to a frosted finish; fixtures are by Dornbracht.
Design (Bits)
WRITTEN BY ALISON CLARE STEINGOLD. HOUSE (6): MARK ADAMS
FROM TOP Simple materials, like a refrigerator, disguised with walnut, push the owner’s art collection to the forefront; Frank Gehry cardboard Wiggle chair; Kartell stools. A two-inch slab of Calcutta marble tops the kitchen island; fixtures by Sun Valley Bronze. Air vents are cleverly concealed by custom laser-cut walnut in a Moroccan pattern.
C 66 MEN’S SPRING 2014
Own the
GOOD LIFE in Sonoma.
W H E R E YO U â&#x20AC;&#x2122; L L F I N D O U R G R E E N S AS SMOOTH AS OU R REDS .
Mayacama
In the heart of Sonoma Wine Country just outside Healdsburg is a private golf and residence club where days revolve around a lively clubhouse that overlooks a Jack Nicklaus masterpiece. It is an experience enhanced by a vintner program featuring a collection of the regionâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s leading growers. There is a spa, tennis, pools, a fitness center, renowned kids program and exquisite residences available through our private residence club program. Mayacama is vibrantly social, and an idyllic lifestyle where Members enjoy reciprocity throughout the worldwide collection of remarkable residence clubs in the Timbers Resorts portfolio. Please contact us today to arrange a personal visit and experience the Mayacama lifestyle that awaits. 707.509.0767 | 866.346.9878 | www.mayacama.com/live
Aspen
Bachelor Gulch
Cabo San Lucas
Maui
Napa
Scottsdale
Snowmass
Sonoma
Southern California
Steamboat Springs
Tuscany
U.S. Virgin Islands
This advertisement does not constitute an offer to sell or the solicitation of an offer to purchase to residents of any state or country where registration is required and is not yet complete. Botany Bay is not included in the Timbers Reciprocity Program.
Vail
Mercedes Benz
A joie de vivre hotel
Luxury, naturally. SA N F R A N C I S CO â&#x20AC;&#x2122; S LU X U RY WAT E R F R O N T D E S TI N ATI O N H o m e o f A m e r i c A n o r e s tAu r A n t & B A r
ei g h t m i s s i o n s tre e t s a n fr a n c i s co , c A 9 41 0 5 t 41 5 . 27 8 . 3 70 0 r 8 8 8 . 8 9 0 . 8 6 8 8 h ote l v it a l e . co m
menu
Menu (Opener)
IVY LEAGUER
CECE CANTON
Adding to his popular spots in Atlanta, chef Richard Blais has packed up his gutsy refinement (and the liquid nitrogen) and headed to San Diego’s North Little Italy. In an old sawtooth warehouse near an Indian Motorcycle dealership and a quick walk to Ballast Point Brewing, Juniper & Ivy restaurant is splashed with colorful art by Ryan McGinness and Kim MacConnel. Blais uses local ingredients and modernist touches across all menus, whether a 4x4 tasting or toasts piled with charred grapes, ricotta, hyssop and ice wine vinegar (an ambitious take on cream cheese and jelly). “We did not want to make them seem fancier than they are by calling them tartines,” says owner Mike Rosen of the toasts. Rocks and seaweed from Blais’ newfound passion for beach foraging aside, an easygoing nature permeates this upscale-casual gem where sneakers or suits, you’re welcome. 2228 Kettner Blvd., S.D., 619-269-9036; juniperandivy.com. •
St. George Spirits Absinthe is spun into cotton candy for Jen Queen’s play on a Sazerac. WRITTEN AND EDITED BY ALISON CLARE STEINGOLD
MEN’S SPRING 2014
C 69
menu DOWNTOWN L.A.
SPACE INVADERS The young at heart can now drink and buy as many tokens as they want at Downtown L.A.’s EightyTwo. Hospitality newcomers Scott Davids and Noah Sutcliffe have worked with SCI-Arc grad David Johnstone to build an apt-named arcade-bar and packed it with 25 classic-cool games and 15 pinball machines. Whiskeys and a menu of cocktails infused with cold-brew coffee are the way to stay fueled in Mortal Kombat training, while a large patio makes EightyTwo an inviting hangout. Asteriods Deluxe may not teach practical skills, but then again, you never really did find out if The Last Starfighter was real… 707 E. 4th Pl., L.A., 213-626-8200; eightytwo.la.
Pick your childhood favorite, like NBA Jam or Robotron 2084. RIGHT Scott Davids and Noah Sutcliffe.
SCRAPBOOKS
$625, phaidon.com.
Columnist Joel Stein recently wrote that the “cookbook is the concert shirt of foodies.” If you attended every Led Zeppelin show for six years straight and held on to those tees in a trunk somewhere, perhaps that’d be your analogue to elBulli 2005-2011. From the now-closed Catalan restaurant, which served only 8,000 diners in its last year (out of nearly two million requests), this seven-volume collection details over 750 recipes, chronicling unprecedented high gastronomy— plus a de facto field guide to the vernacular, color-coded systems and ideas of Ferran Adrià’s experimental empire. A creativity center opens in its stead next year.
Menu (Bits)
What if you could open any bottle from your cellar for a taste, and none of it would go bad? This gadget ensures that wine can be extracted without the rest of the bottle coming into contact with oxygen. Coravin’s thin, hollow needle inserts through the cork and pressurizes its interior with capsules of argon gas. Wine pours through the needle, and the cork reseals itself. You can’t take it on an airplane, but your flight options just improved dramatically. $299; coravin.com.
C 70 MEN’S SPRING 2014
The flour mill produces seasonal wheats such as the Sonora. PASADENA
MILLER TIME None of this bulk-bin business. The hyper-local heirloom flours at Pasadena outfit Grist & Toll are milled in tiny batches right on site with a real stone mill. Red Fife is a hard spring wheat that has an ample protein percentage for hearty bread baking, while pastries benefit from having blended in a little of the softer Sonora. Fridays through Sundays; 990 S. Arroyo Pkwy., Ste. 1, Pas., 626-441-7400; gristandtoll.com.
EIGHTYTWO INTERIOR AND PORTRAIT: BRENDAN PATTENGALE. GRIST & TOLL: RYAN TANAKA
FLIGHT OPTIONS
Tallarico
menu CLOCKWISE Torc’s
airy interior. Graphics by Bobby Hundreds at The Albright. TBD’s Grillworks system. At 4505 Burgers & BBQ: bratwurst, merguez sausage, a breakfast sandwich and the “best damn” cheeseburger.
Weekend Planner FOREST FEAST After one sip of violet artichoke soup, you’ll know the mourning period for Ubuntu is over. That stone-walled downtown Napa space has transformed into Sean O’Toole’s long-awaited Torc. 1140 Main St., Napa, 707-252-3292; torcnapa. com. PIER PRESSURE Now, a reason to visit the Santa Monica Pier: Family-run since ’77 and overhauled by daughter Yunnie Kim Morena, The Albright is the Sunday seafood joint done right: mallets and newspaper for your Dungeness; Kumamotos with a shallot-packed mignonette; and a chalkboard of craft beers—since not all gentlemen prefer blonde ales. Santa Monica Pier, #258, 310-394-9683; thealbright.com. GRILL MASTER Leeks cooked in the coals, crushed beets from the embers…the Argentinean-style custom grill and rustic hearth are central to chalet-chic TBD, the new restaurant by Mark Liberman and Matt Semmelhack of AQ. 1077 Mission St., S.F., 415-431-1826; tbdrestaurant.com. HOLY COW Running outposts at farmers’ markets, a butcher shop, a catering arm and online ordering—you’d think 4505’s Ryan Farr would be sated. Apparently not. This month alone, S.F.’s whole-animal king will open 4505 Burgers & BBQ in NoPa and release his second book, Sausage Making ($35, Chronicle). 705 Divisadero St., S.F.; 4505meats.com.
Menu (Bits)
C 72 MEN’S SPRING 2014
SURE SHOT
Imagine the most high-tech version of a coffee vending machine installed into your kitchen island. Scanomat did, and the Danish brand arrives in CA with TopBrewer. The app-controlled built-in stores beans and liquids to dispense fresh drinks to specification, from the ratio of milk to espresso in your macchiato to water temperature for oolong tea. The $8,000 price tag isn’t easy to swallow, but neither is a scalding cup of joe. Available at Snyder Diamond, S.M., 310-904-6827; scanomat.com.
TORC: ANDY BERRY. THE ALBRIGHT: BRIAN MORENA. FERNET: COURTESY OF TEMPUS FUGIT SPIRITS
THAT’S AMARO The 19th-century recipe for Tempus Fugit Spirits’ new Fernet del Frate Angelico has been researched, bottled and, now, released. Of its engraved labels, cofounder John Troia says, “It’s a little over the top, but we think it’s the least we could do for such a fabulous historic product.” $60; tempusfugitspirits.com.
C
magazine
C Sub
GET THE ULTIMATE INSIDER’S GUIDE TO THE GOLDEN STATE
12 Issues for $19.95 Subscribe 1.800.775.3066 Or online at www.magazinec.com
menu
Chef to Chef
L.A.’s Roy Choi and Jon Favreau team up in the kitchen and on the big screen BY ALISON CLARE STEINGOLD
ABOVE El Jefe food truck makes a stop at Franklin Barbecue in Austin, Texas. RIGHT Sofia Vergara (Inez), Favreau (Carl Casper) and Emjay Anthony (Percy Casper).
Jon Favreau (actor, writer and producer of Hollywood tentpoles like Iron Man) returns to his more intimate Swingers roots with Chef (May 9, Open Road Films). Carl Casper is a hotheaded L.A. toque at a white-tablecloth Brentwood establishment who thinks he has it all, including the hot floor manager (Scarlett Johansson). When he suddenly quits, he takes a ramshackle food truck on the road instead. Robert Downey Jr., John Leguizamo, Sofia Vergara and Dustin Hoffman costar in the comedy. But, as Favreau explains, he needed expert help: “Roy [Choi] is credited with starting the food truck explosion in L.A., and I was hoping that he could offer an authentic perspective on the sequences. In doing my research, I was struck by how similar Roy’s journey was to the one that I had written.” Favreau deferred to Food & Wine’s Best New Chef of 2010 and innovator behind L.A.’s Kogi BBQ, A-Frame and newcomer POT at The Line Hotel. “Roy put me through the paces. He started by sending me off to do some intensive training at a culinary school, where I learned the basics: knife cuts, mother sauces, basic technique. After that, I started in Roy’s kitchens, [eventually] working on the line during dinner service. I even cooked on the Kogi truck to get a feel for what that was like.”
Roy, how did this job differ from other chef-consultant gigs? Roy Choi: At first, I imagined it just as a service to keep the cooking details intact, like teaching [Favreau] about boxing for a fighter role. But then it kept evolving, and I think we all realized it wasn’t just a one-off job. They allowed me to be a part of their family, and I showed them more than just recipes as I learned from Jon about storytelling and the film world.
Menu (Turn)
So it was different from teaching a cooking class? RC: It is actually not that different. Being a teacher is more than just teaching the skills. Being a teacher is about carrying on the craft and passing it to the students. Being a teacher is about listening and learning while you teach. These all were a part of our relationship. The only difference is that I got Craft Services every day and pigged out on pistachios. What was the research process like? RC: The food was specifically tailored. I started to understand Carl Casper and his time and place and emotional circumstance. So it was hard especially to cook the food at the restaurant because I had to create a menu that was dated and from the ’80s—like looking at old outfits you wore in high school. I couldn’t let my ego get in the way and tried to help the film by making the lava cake or filet mignon feel exactly as it should feel—passé. RC: We treated the whole film as a real kitchen, so we bought the food from my regular purveyors. We had real cooks on set, real butchers, real recipes, challenged our food stylist to use no glycerin, and she was so open and cool. All the food was cooked as if it was being served to eat. I’m a chef, so I don’t know any other way. Maybe that helped the culture, maybe not— but I surely wasn’t gonna allow food to be disrespected, and Jon was so mindful of that. You had a cameo in the film, too. Any dreams of leaving it all for acting? RC: I actually took some theater classes in college, believe it or not. We do need more Asian actors in better roles, but not at this stage in my life. I’m a cook that takes care of people. That’s good enough for me right now. •
John Leguizamo, Jon Favreau, Bobby Cannavale and Roy Choi on the set of Chef.
C 74 MEN’S SPRING 2014
MERRICK MORTON/OPEN ROAD FILMS
Was everything prepared on set—and was it actually edible?
SINGLE , SUCCESSF UL , SELEC TI V E . . .SIM PLY TOO BUS Y ?
Kelleher Amber Kelleher-Andrews CEO
Awarded Top Global Matchmaker
K
ELLEHER I N T E R N A T I O N A L making love happen.. since 1986
www.kelleher-international.com
+1.415.332.4111
Los Angeles | San Fr ancisco | Las Vegas | San Diego | Scottsdale | Seattle | New York | Chicago Dallas | Houston | Boston | Atlanta | Washington DC | Denver | Miami | Stockholm | London
S:7.125”
It is our entire automotive philosophy set in motion. Again.
Introducing the 2014 S-Class. 127 years ago, the founder of Mercedes-Benz challenged his employees to deliver “the best or nothing.” The 2014 S-Class is proof that his words still resonate to this day. Building on its own history of innovation, the groundbreaking new S-Class features dual 12.3" high-resolution screens, hot stone massage seating and an aromatic filtration system on the inside, while outside, a revolutionary MAGIC BODY CONTROL system uses cameras to scan the road for imperfections and instantly adjust the suspension for a superior ride. The 2014 S-Class is the flagship Mercedes-Benz that not only makes a statement, but answers a calling.
2014 S 550 shown in Iridium Silver metallic paint. May include optional equipment. No system, regardless of how advanced, can overcome the laws of physics or correct careless driving. Please always wear your seat belt. ©2014 Authorized Mercedes-Benz Dealers For more information, call 1-800-FOR-MERCEDES, or visit MBUSA.com.
/,(+305, $ W[ :<)/,(+ $ W[ *67@ $ W[
S:9.875”
Hotel Vitale
TRAVEL
Travel (Opener) SAIL AWAY
Think Bob Marley meets Hobie Alter, and you’ve arrived at Turks and Caicos
COMO HOTELS AND RESORTS
BY DRAY MURRAY
Hanging off the south end of the British West Indies—about an hour-and-a-half flight from Miami—the islands that make up Turks and Caicos are a sunny antidote for the winter-worn seeking white-glove coddling and extreme sport. While locals take to the many soccer and cricket fields (of the laid-back, islanders’ ilk), tourists come to stand-up paddleboard (SUP), kitesurf, water-ski, bike, sail, windsurf, dive, snorkel, kayak and much, much more. Christopher Columbus landed here on his 1492 exploratory voyage—the islands were colonized by the British in 1681, and centuries later, in 1962, Turks and Caicos became a British Crown colony. Extensive stretches of white-sand beaches with warm, shallow water and consistent trade winds from fall through spring are what drew explorers and now entice kiteboarders of all levels. Beginners head to Long Bay—where lessons are taught in miles of calm, waist-deep >>
An archipelago in the Caribbean, Turks and Caicos is made up of 40 islands and cays, many of which are uninhabited.
EDITED BY JENNY MURRAY MEN’S SPRING 2014
C 77
TRAVEL LEFT Parrot Cay by COMO’s Tamarind villa. BELOW Rocky Point, a three-bedroom villa with a private pool and direct beach access.
<< water sheltered by the outer reef. Seasoned kiters can go island hopping downwind through the labyrinth of mangroves for miles on glassy water protected from the wind. For those who want waves, the outer reef that surrounds the islands hosts tropical surf breaks as far as the eye can see. Paddleboarding over the barrier reef or through the mangroves is another great way to experience turtles, small reef sharks, upside-down jellyfish and glow worms that come out at night. Among the many retreats (Amanyara on Providenciales included) is Parrot Cay by COMO, a sprawling, plantation-style boutique hotel nestled on its own private island 35 minutes north of the main island via powerboat. Originally known as Pirate Cay, the 74 rooms and private villas are amply separated from one another, resulting in celebrity-approved privacy (Ben Affleck and Jennifer Garner found it a suitable place to get married). The property’s spa has earned many accolades over the years with an extensive menu, including signature Ayurvedic treatments and the Shambhala massage. And dining is spectacular on several levels. In the evenings, the deck at the Lotus restaurant serves innovative Asian cuisine; enjoy upscale Mediterranean dishes at the Terrace; arrange a picnic from the Shambhala spa; or stay in and order room service. The four menus are updated often, and everything is made on the island as needed—think steamed grouper and grilled conch with tomato relish. While R&R is certainly at the top of the list (it’s just so easy), you’d be remiss not to pick up a board, boat, tank or pole and hit the water. From $475/night; comohotels.com. •
Kiteboarders off the coast of Providenciales.
Travel (Turn)
KITEBOARDERS: MIKE THEISS/NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC/GETTY IMAGES
RIGHT A Tamarindflanked path leads to a villa. BELOW The private sundeck and swimming pool at the COMO beach villa.
C 78 MEN’S SPRING 2014
w w w. c s o c i a l f r o n t . c o m
THE PLACE TO SEE AND BE SEEN
C Social Front
C S OCI AL F R ONT Online Daily Diary Postings and Californiaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Upcoming Events
Emporio Armani jacket, $1,025. Sandro T-shirt, $130. Tommy Hilfiger pants, $99. FASHION EDITOR: VICTORIA COLLISON
Feature (TBD)
man of the hour
As Nikolaj Coster-Waldau gears up for the fourth season of “Game of Thrones,” the Danish actor weighs in on the powerful franchise, the industry and the rising sea of opportunity
By Kirstie Clements Photographed by Hugh Stewart C 80
Feature (TBD)
Feature (TBD)
Feature (TBD)
Burberry jacket, $2,495. Tommy Hilfiger shorts, $69. OPPOSITE Zegna sweater, $395. Etro polo, $346. Vilebrequin shorts, $225.
C 83
Feature (TBD)
Emporio Armani jacket, $1,095, and shirt, $425. Etro shorts, $540. Burberry shoes, $485.
A
n off-duty Nikolaj Coster-Waldau opens his front door, wearing a plaid cotton shirt, shorts, sandals and a friendly smile, having just wrapped the cover shoot for this month’s issue. The accomplished Danish-born actor lodged himself into the global consciousness largely via his role as the morally ambiguous Jaime Lannister in the mega-successful HBO series “Game of Thrones.” At 43, he is tall and tanned, and he fixes his eyes on yours when he talks. He’s your basic, chisel-jawed lady-killer, in the old-fashioned sense of the word—sword or no sword. We may as well cut to the chase: How is it that, even though his character on “Game of Thrones” is having sex with his sister and pushed a young boy out of a window, crippling him (in Episode One), he is not universally reviled and we are all, in fact, intrigued and even smitten by Jaime Lannister? “That’s what I loved about this character when I signed on,” he replies with enthusiasm. “You start out with a guy who seemingly is a very cynical, dark, evil man, if you will, and then they told me what his journey would be, and I found it fascinating. Even with the first scene, he does something so horrible and then says, ‘The things I do for love.’ That is his motivation.” I mention that his sister, Cersei, whom he is reunited with in Season Four, seems rather unlovable. Plus she seems to be developing a drinking problem with all those endless goblets of red wine. Coster-Waldau laughs, “I think so too. Jaime does ask, ‘Why did the gods make me love such a hateful woman?’ It’s interesting because so far she hasn’t shown many redeeming qualities. Mind you, clearly she hasn’t had an easy life.” The opportunity to dissect and discuss the show’s characters as if they actually exist is hugely fun and engaging. “That’s what’s great about the show,” he agrees. “It’s not the dragons. You are curious about what happens to these people.” Coster-Waldau’s natural ability to make women swoon is no doubt part of the reason he was cast in The Other Woman, a big-budget romcom released in April directed by Nick Cassavetes, costarring Cameron Diaz and Leslie Mann. His character also has a dark side: “He comes from privilege, he makes a lot of money, he has put his wife and his children in a beautiful house, he works hard, and he thinks that he’s entitled to have a bit of fun and that it doesn’t hurt anyone. So he keeps seducing women. He loves himself so much he’s looking for someone who loves him as much as he does. He’s such a selfish, narcissistic prick, there’s nothing better than to see him suffer at the end, when he loses his cool.” I sense he enjoys depicting these bad boys. “You are trying to find some kind of truth; whether the character is good or bad doesn’t matter. It’s about finding those moments where hopefully the audience will be able to connect and identify. Villains are so much fun to watch because they do the unexpected, and we all sometimes wish we could let loose. I remember reading Donald Duck when I was young, and there was that little red devil that would pop into his mind, urging him on. We all have that. We rein ourselves in all the time.” CONTINUED ON PAGE 112
Feature (TBD)
C 85
Feature (TBD)
Feature (TBD)
Burberry shirt, $495. Etro swim trunks, $270. OPPOSITE Prada jacket, $2,595. Bottega Veneta pants, $980.
C 87
Feature (TBD)
C 88
Gucci jacket, $2,890, and pants, $1,590. Tommy Hilfiger shirt, $59. OPPOSITE Etro shirt, $454.
Feature (TBD)
C 00
Feature (TBD) GROOMER: NADINE MONLEY. SEE SHOPPING GUIDE FOR MORE DETAILS, PAGE 113
Feature (TBD)
Etro shirt, $419, and trousers, $447. Vacheron Constantin watch. OPPOSITE Paul & Shark vest, $585. Tommy Hilfiger bomber, $229, and shorts, $89.
C 91
Feature (TBD)
to infinity and beyond Since the 1990s, L.A. artist Doug Aitken has tapped a stream of earthly subjects—volcanic tremors, typhoons and migratory birds—employing ultrasensitive microphones and rocket cameras. A new book, 100 Yrs, puts his broad oeuvre on vivid display 100 Yrs speaks to more than Doug Aitken’s prolific mind: “It’s about the idea of time, and framing the abode of art within time and everything else in culture that happens around it, as opposed to the art existing only in isolation,” Aitken explains. Among the many works profiled, perhaps migration (empire) (2008) best supports this concept—the video installation of
encounters between American wildlife and human civilization will also be on live display next spring as part of SFMOMA’s expansion project. Aitken’s L.A. gallery, Regen Projects, will host new works in September. Here, Francesco Bonami, the famed Italian art curator and writer, shares his thoughts on the multitalented creator.
Feature (TBD)
Rise, 1998–2001.
Sometimes I imagine walking through the streets of the Jewish quarter in Leipzig around the year 1833. I see a young guy playing a horn on the corner and think, “Who the hell does he think he is?” A few years later I find out he is the composer Richard Wagner. Well, when I entered the tiny space of 303 Gallery in New York’s SoHo neighborhood and watched a video some guy had made by attaching
a surveillance camera to a small, high-powered rocket and launching it above his Los Angeles neighborhood (inflection, 1992), a similar thought came into my mind: “Who the hell does he think he is? NASA?” A few years later I found out that the guy was Doug Aitken, maybe the closest thing to a contemporary Richard Wagner there is. I think maybe the indomitable Wagner is one of Aitken’s heroes...
C 93
Aitken is not a son of the hippie revolution but rather an exotic flower. Because he was born in 1968, the most turbulent year of our contemporary culture, the politics of that tumultuous decade never really affected him. He belongs to the generation that was able to cash in on the freedoms earned by the counterculture. He grew up peacefully, on the Pacific Ocean. Redondo Beach was then a small resort town near Los Angeles with an idyllic climate and a laid-back social mood. In all of his work there is a feeling of existential Nirvana, of time without seasons, exactly as in the beach town where he was raised as an only child. Yet one should not assume that because of this upbringing his work is superficial or shallow. It is, in fact, exactly the opposite. Each work is a tale narrated from the depth of the human soul, trapped by the unavoidable loneliness hidden within each of us... Redondo Beach is expanding toward Hollywood. Doug Aitken could have drifted toward a disastrous indulgence in technology, but he resists. He is still, after all, the kid born on the Pacific Ocean. His collaboration with musicians such as Terry Riley, Lichens, and No Age, and other like-minded artists continues Aitken’s addiction to breaking rules and boundaries, both visual and verbal, and cements his refusal of any possible linear reading of culture. In his work he continues to decry the destruction of the planet, just as he did in 1998 in eraser, shot on the Caribbean island of Montserrat, where nature was again taking over after the eruption of a volcano. More and more we find in his work the idea that Earth is being voluntarily emptied of humans, in some sort of consensual planetary gentrification. We see our planet being transformed; plants and animals act as the saviors for a place that human beings will not be able to inhabit much longer, at least not with the means we have traditionally used to narrate society: music, literature, and images. In Aitken’s work the world is left to sound, feeling, and instinct. Over the past two decades, ranging from the early videos to his magical capacity for telling modern fables, Doug Aitken has mutated from a Richard Wagner into a contemporary Aesop. Whether in Broken Screen (D.A.P./Distributed Art Publishers, 2006), in which twenty-six thinkers share their visions with him, or in Sonic Pavilion (2009), a communal space built on the grounds of the Inhotim art center in the Brazilian Amazon, where the sound of the moving interior of the earth can be heard through highly sensitive microphones buried a mile deep into the ground, he always finds another frontier to cross and another to leave behind. •
Feature (TBD)
IMAGES AND FOREWORD EXCERPTED FROM DOUG AITKEN: 100 YRS BY DOUG AITKEN, BICE CURIGER, AARON BETSKY, FRANCESCO BONAMI, KERRY BROUGHER AND TIM GRIFFIN; PUBLISHED BY RIZZOLI, NEW YORK, APRIL 2014.
C 94
Feature (TBD)
Black Mirror, 2011. New Ocean: new machines/new ocean floor, 2001. Doug Aitken: 100 Yrs ($85, Rizzoli). 1968 (broken), 2011. New opposition I, 2003.
CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT
house party With paddleboards and pingpong tables, Stephanie and Tyler Mitchell transformed an industrial South of Market loft into a playful pad By Diane Dorrans Saeks Photographed by Angie Silvy
Feature (TBD)
Tyler Mitchell takes a spin around the living roomâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s polished-concrete floors.
C 96
Feature (TBD)
Y
ou won’t find gregarious San Franciscans Stephanie and Tyler Mitchell taking off for Napa Valley or Mexico on a typical Friday afternoon. “On weekends we stay home in our loft, entertaining friends, watching classic films, relaxing on the terrace, skateboarding and cooking,” says Stephanie, an accomplished cook. The couple love the low-key vibe of their airy new apartment, which includes an open terrace. The 6,800-square-foot space, with a skylit mezzanine bedroom, has soaring 18-foot-high ceilings in the living room and screening room, and 320-degree panoramic city views, from the Bay Bridge and the ballpark west to Twin Peaks. They’re also just around the corner from Bar Agricole and close to the Rainbow Grocery, where they find their favorite organic vegetables. “We both value our friends and family more than anything, so we bought the loft as a retreat, and for entertaining and spending time with people we love,” says Tyler, a co-owner of the Wilkes Bashford stores. The Mitchells’ first sight of the loft, which is situated near the rather gritty border of the Inner Mission, was not glamorous. The raw industrial space had been neglected over the years, but they saw promise amid the seemingly endless expanse. “We spent a full year gutting it, cleaning it up and creating new mezzanine rooms, glass partitions, and corners with privacy and tranquillity,” says Stephanie, who took it upon herself to decorate the vast interiors. The neighborhood, meanwhile, had improved, and every month a new cafe or grocery was opening. “We wanted each area of the loft to be dramatic, to have grand scale and to maintain the interior vistas,” says Tyler. “We kept the long sight lines and protected the loft feeling. Our style is French vintage industrial with a twist, and we’ve found art and antiques from Paris flea markets and at Maisonry, a gallery and wine-tasting
C 98
salon in Yountville. It’s owned and curated by a great friend of ours, Michael Polenske, so we often visit.” They are also close friends with Restoration Hardware chairman emeritus and creator Gary Friedman. “We love the RH style, and it’s always a bonus to support friends,” says Stephanie. “Gary is a visionary, and even though it’s a commercial brand, the pieces seem custom-made, handcrafted.” A menswear trendsetter, buyer and retailer, Tyler has become a favorite style consultant to leaders in the tech world. The Mitchell family (Tyler, his father and extended family) acquired the infamous Wilkes Bashford stores in San Francisco and Palo Alto in November 2009. The couple married two years ago and have immersed themselves in the cultural and philanthropic happenings of the Bay Area since arriving from Connecticut in 2009. Any night of the week, they (along with Wilkes Bashford himself) can be seen at a gala, the new jazz center, a tech gathering, a hot new restaurant or a black-tie charity fundraiser. “The moment I moved here, and especially after I met Stephanie, I realized I would stay on here and buy a house, settle here,” recalls Tyler. “But first we had to find our home base.” “We have close friends who are artists, so we attend a lot of gallery openings,” says Stephanie. “The galleries are always in cool, edgy neighborhoods; we get a nice cocktail, and we enjoy awesome art and meet new artists and mingle with vivid new people.” They may invite a top sushi chef for a celebratory dinner or, for a special occasion, hire the bartenders from Bourbon & Branch to create exclusive cocktails for their friends. The loft offers limitless possibilities. “Believe it or not, throwing on a pair of ripped jeans and an old T-shirt and inviting some cool artsy cats over for a glass of whiskey or cocktails is our idea of a perfect night,” says Tyler, already planning their next gathering. The sound track could be reggae or rap and will probably include highly competitive pingpong—house rule number one, enjoy yourself. •
Feature (TBD)
Feature (TBD)
The Mitchells kept the colors neutral, using chalkboard paint on some walls and staining the original concrete floor a muted gray. Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s a skateboard enthusiastâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s paradise, and sometimes guests bring their own.
CLOCKWISE FROM ABOVE
The 8x12-foot temperature-controlled wine cellar can hold more than 2,000 bottles. Stephanie designed the bathroom with statuario marble and a simple tub. The 16-foot dining table, surrounded by stackable French cafe chairs by Restoration Hardware. A pingpong table. A shelf displays books and collectibles.
Feature (TBD)
C 100
During cocktail parties or after a rollicking game of pingpong, friends can rest on a Belgian-linen-covered sofa in the long hallway.
Feature (TBD)
for the love of the game A drought in American menâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s singles champions has rallied a group of impassioned pros, fans and tech billionaires behind the comeback of SoCal tennis By Steven Siebert
Feature (TBD)
REUTERS/DANNY MOLOSHOK
Rafael Nadal warms up at the BNP Paribas Open, Indian Wells.
T
he 2014 BNP Paribas Open men’s final ended on March 16 in a heart-pounding three-set tiebreaker with every seat in Stadium 1 watching Roger Federer and Novak Djokovic duke it out. The majority of the 16,100 fans were behind Federer (arguably the greatest player of all time), who, at 32, was coming off an 11-match winning streak; Djokovic was looking to reclaim the world’s top ATP ranking. Ultimately, the 26-year-old Serbian succeeded—taking home $1 million in prize money and 1,000 ATP ranking points. The Open in Indian Wells had record numbers in attendance, with more than 431,000 fans making the desert trek for the largest tournament outside of the four grand slams. John Isner, the highestranked U.S. player, made it to the semifinals and is now back in the ATP top-10 standings; Sloane Stephens made it to the quarterfinals. The other 24 Americans who participated were knocked out in the first few rounds. In fact, the last U.S. men’s champion to win Indian Wells was Andre Agassi back in 2001. SoCal was once a hotbed of men’s singles champions: Pete Sampras, Michael Chang, Jeff Tarango, Jimmy Connors and Stan Smith, but the question remains, with an abundance of sunshine and hard courts, why are we not producing the best men’s professional singles players anymore? Former pro and current commentator at the Tennis Channel Justin Gimelstob, a Santa Monica resident, provides some insight: “Southern California tennis is facing the same challenges American tennis is—the sport has become very competitive, in large part due to increased popularity internationally. As a result, there is a lack of top American stars, which are needed to fuel interest in the sport commercially.” Former SoCal resident Serena Williams and the Bryan brothers of Camarillo have remained at the top, and Brentwood-based Sam Querrey is ranked 62nd, but America has not produced a men’s singles grand-slam champion since Andy Roddick won the U.S. Open in 2003. One interesting thing about today’s game is that nine of the world’s top-10 players (e.g., Nadal, Djokovic, Federer) grew up on Har-Tru clay courts, and a school of thought exists that it is a necessary surface to learn on. The simple theory is that on the slower Har-Tru clay court surface, you are forced to hit and keep more balls in play and work your strategy and technique to better develop points. Oracle billionaire and Malibu resident Larry Ellison has a deep understanding and appreciation of the sport and acquired
Feature (TBD)
C 103
that was cool and a little out of the box,” says Solomon. “They took Petco Park and literally laid out a red clay court in left field and incorporated the Western metal company—that iconic building— right into the shot.” It’s a small token, since L.A. lost its ATP event (the L.A. Open, aka Farmers Classic) in 2012. Founded in 1927, it was the longestrunning sporting event in the city. “You have an event that long, you don’t lose it,” says Jack Neworth, columnist and contributor to 10sballs.com. “In my opinion it’s scandalous. Every great tennis player in the world played here. It was almost like Ford going out of business. The event was sold by the Kramer family to a group who now holds the event in Bogotá, Colombia.” Many people believe L.A. deserves an ATP event back. “The only way I see the cycle of more tournaments in Southern California changing would be if they were based around or leading up to Indian Wells, but changing tour calendars is very challenging,” says Gimelstob. “The reality is we need more of our best athletes playing tennis, and hopefully some American star players can energize the next generation.”
“The fact is that you have an individual sport stars that are as big Feature with (TBD) as or bigger than any celebrity in the world. Federer is second to Lady Gaga in terms of celebrity index worldwide and follows Nelson Mandela in terms of respect.”
C 104
To that end, Gimelstob and Mardy Fish (a former pro) assembled a group of sponsors last year for the LA Tennis Challenge, a children’s charity night that brought Novak Djokovic to UCLA’s Pauley Pavilion along with Pete Sampras, Tommy Haas, the Bryan brothers and James Blake. Due to a lack of sponsor support, the event will not return in 2014, but Gimelstob and Fish are determined to have it back in 2015. Despite the many wins and losses, the energy behind SoCal tennis is gaining momentum. Perhaps it’s not a complete fantasy anymore to imagine the next superstar from the Valley or a UCLA prodigy hoisting the Indian Wells trophy above his head sometime in the next decade. And the hard-won victory will be sweet. •
DJOKOVIC: MICHAEL NELSON/EPA/CORBIS. PETCO PARK: RON ANGLE/USTA. FEDERER: YANG LEI/XINHUA PRESS/CORBIS. STADIUM 2: BNP PARIBAS OPEN/GETTY IMAGES
the Indian Wells Tennis Garden complex and its BNP Paribas Open in 2009. “Larry is one of the best things to happen to tennis in a long time,” says Gimelstob. “He has the resources to create a stateof-the-art facility for players and fans as Indian Wells has grown into an international sensation just like the four other majors.” Indian Wells is a 1,000 event, where winners can earn big prize money (the 2014 total purse value was $11 million) and make up their ATP-ranking points faster than 250 or 500 events. Just last year, Ellison, CEO Raymond Moore and Tournament Director Steve Simon completed plans for a multimillion-dollar, 8,000-seat Stadium 2 (with a Nobu restaurant on site), which commentator and legend John McEnroe unveiled this past March. For those who couldn’t make it to the live event, the Santa Monicabased Tennis Channel provided the next best option. Ken Solomon, the station’s chairman and CEO, grew up in Palm Springs and was a ball boy at Davis Cup matches on the very grounds of the Indian Wells Tennis Garden. He joined the independent network in 2005, when it reached 3.5 million households; it has now grown to 35 million subscribers, with 55 million tuning in during major tournaments. “The single biggest thing we did was build the Culver City studio, which is the permanent home for tennis,” says Solomon—pros and ex-pros often drop in to do interviews and hang out. “Before Tennis Channel, 95% of the top tennis in the world was not on television,” he adds. “We were only seeing a fraction of what was really happening.” “The fact is that you have an individual sport with stars that are as big as or bigger than any celebrity in the world. Federer is second to Lady Gaga in terms of celebrity index worldwide and follows Nelson Mandela in terms of respect. Third is Rafael Nadal.” Solomon makes the top-120 tournaments available, and not just the Friday-through-Sunday matches—think hundreds and hundreds of hours of Wimbledon, over 14 days. “We are finally putting this sport on equal footing with others,” he says. Where else can you see UCLA senior Clay Thompson, who was recruited from Crossroads School, come into the tour and qualify and play his first 1,000 ATP tournament? Solomon also credits Ellison for changes in Southern California tennis culture. “He’s obviously on a different scale. He already has the second-largest stadium in the country, behind the Arthur Ashe Stadium.” Many of the Indian Wells competitors arrived in L.A. a week prior to warm up and play at some local private clubs, including Riviera Tennis Club, Bel-Air Country Club, Malibu Racquet Club (also owned by Ellison) and Manhattan Country Club. On March 1, Victoria Azarenka held her first charity event in the U.S.: “Vika for the Cause” for Children’s Hospital of Los Angeles with Serena Williams, and Gaël Monfils and other ATP/WTA friends to raise money via an exclusive Doubles ProAm held at the Malibu Racquet Club, followed by a VIP reception at Ellison’s restaurant, Nikita Malibu. This past February in San Diego, the red clay court in the middle of Petco Park was the site of the Davis Cup by BNP Paribas, where two-time grand-slam champion Andy Murray played Sam Querrey. “The USTA deserves a lot of credit for coming up with a venue
Novak Djokovic celebrates his 2014 Indian Wells win. CLOCKWISE FROM BELOW The Davis Cup by BNP Paribas at San Diegoâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Petco Park. Roger Federer at Indian Wells. Stadium 2 at Indian Wells was built in 1O months and 1O days, complete with a Nobu, Chop House and a pizzeria.
Feature (TBD)
Feature (TBD)
way out west
Designer, collector, craftsman Blaine Halvorson is like a gem from an abandoned mining town—by way of outer space—beamed down right here in Culver City. Brian D. Leitch stops by his “MadeWorn” studio, where he makes art, clothes, shoes...And things just get curiouser and curiouser Photographed by Amanda Demme
Feature (TBD) A menagerie of taxidermy and an eye-popping assortment of curiosities are combined with bold works of art, arranged into rooms of themed installations that provide the perfect backdrop for his handcrafted clothes, jeans and shoes. Everything is for sale. OPPOSITE Halvorson in his studio, where you â&#x20AC;&#x153;enter an Alice In Wonderland maze and come out through a casino.â&#x20AC;?
C 107
I
f you made an appointment—as it’s done—to visit the Culver City studio of Blaine Halvorson, it would be easy to get a little overstimulated… from both the Brothers Grimm darkness of the world he’s created and the beautific lightness of your host. Taxidermied giraffes. CBGB urinals. A bas-relief made from 30,000 “smoked” cigarette butts. (He doesn’t smoke—Damien Hirst stopped by and demonstrated how to use a vacuum cleaner to “inhale them” down to the various lengths required when Halvorson was more than a couple thousand butts in, “the old-fashioned way.”) A plastic meat locker surrounded by a litter of sweet (but stuffed) puppies. Before you know it, you’re in…deep. Clothes, cobbled footwear, furniture, ephemera, erotica, excellent booze and the most sophisticated cabinet of curiosities fill the most creepy-beautiful, intensely curated succession of rooms you’ve probably ever encountered. Then there’s the carefully attenuated collection of important art—all for sale right here in a 4,500-square-foot, old-fangled, new kind of museum in Culver City…Who woulda thunk it? Not to mention the club room conversation, which veers from Art Basel to the unprintable but perversely fascinating way a Tokyo “Love Hotel” works (and how it will eventually become the subject of an installation at an off-site hotel) to what it means to be a craftsman in a world where laser printers can now create a house without a contractor—let alone construction workers—at the push of a button, and “followers”—as in “How many do you have?”—are more important than the quality of their leaders. Halvorson is a leader—and a maniacal one, but in a good way. “I’m obsessed with the meticulous—things no one in their right mind would ever do,” he says. A former construction worker from Gallatin County, Montana, where Halvorson hunted buffalo and excavated the relics of old mines for leisure, the tall, sturdy, expressively tattooed 43-year-old went to art school “by accident,” he says. “A minute later I’d-a been a lawyer. I went into the art building CONTINUED ON PAGE 112
C 108
Feature (TBD)
Antique sewing machines finish clothes that are assembled by artisans in Tokyo. OPPOSITE, FROM TOP Plastic meat locker with onlooking taxidermy dogs. A vintage mannequin and 30-foot giraffe hold court. The Quaker pants, The Abatis pants and the Standard Jean on display in front of CBGB urinals.
Feature (TBD)
â&#x20AC;&#x153;I want to set the Holy Grail standard for American craftsmanship,â&#x20AC;? says Halvorson. He hand-cobbles the shoes himself, which can be custom-ordered from a variety of exotic materials and are delivered in old wooden shoe-shine boxes eight days later. BOTTOM LEFT The Skull bas-relief Halvorson made himself from more than 30,000 cigarette butts.
Feature (TBD)
C 110
Feature (TBD)
MAN OF THE HOUR
poisonous arachnids. “The Kingslayer” is,
in Colorado who can get him every grommet
like most people, frightened of Huntsman
and grimy truckload of used denim or WWI
spiders. “Guys that think they have to be
canvas, broken-in leather rodeo chaps and a
manly or butch, tough, all those things, they
myriad of other ghost-town relics, which he
bore me. To have a sense of humor is the most
will then remake, through a synthesis of
So is it this inner moral battle, this darkness
important thing. I don’t think you should take
handmade trial and error and technological
underneath the alpha male exterior, that has
yourself too seriously, especially with what
insight, into MadeWorn, his catch-all for a
contributed to his sex symbol status? “I
we [actors] do. There is so much incentive to
collection of menswear, accessories and
don’t know, but it tells us a lot about women,
do just that. You need to fight against it or it
“stuff” that he thinks is luxurious by nature
doesn’t it?” he grins.
will mess you up.” I wrap our conversation
and nurture.
CONTINUED FROM PAGE 85
Since graduating from State Theatre
by asking if “Game of Thrones,” and the pre-
Maxfield in Los Angeles agrees, and his
School in Denmark, Coster-Waldau has had a
sumably unexpected fame that has ensued,
hand-tattooed pigskin duffels, each repre-
long list of starring roles on his CV, both in the
has changed his life.
senting at least 100 hours of work alone, sell
U.S. and in his home country, but he is not one to underplay the good fortune that has
“Everything changes your life, doesn’t it? But at the core, you hope that you don’t change.” •
enables him to explore his character in far
How did this all happen…here? Having sold his Junkfood Clothing line in 2005 for a
come with the massive success of “Game of Thrones,” or the fact that this TV series
before they even hit the floor.
WAY OUT WEST CONTINUED FROM PAGE 108
tidy sum, Halvorson gathered all of his slightly insane brainchildren together in a single place, outside of his own head. On a
more depth than he would in a film. We touch on how remarkable television is
random trip to L.A. from his vacation home
at present, including acclaimed Danish series
in Montana, he was shooting the breeze with
such as “The Killing” and “Borgen,” and
to take a piss, and my friend said, ‘Hey,
Joel Chen (proprietor of JF Chen, the furni-
Coster-Waldau praises another HBO standout,
man, you need an art credit. Sit in on my
ture showroom) and Ray Azoulay (of Obso-
“True Detective.” “You know what’s so great
class—this professor is mad-cool!’” So it was
lete in Venice). As that conversation came to
about all of it? The fact that we, as an audi-
that Halvorson took the proverbial left turn
its natural conclusion, the idea for the raw
ence, really like complicated stuff. Now you
at Albuquerque that led to this epic excava-
space sort of materialized. Says Azoulay:
get to do these stories that are eight hours long
tion of his creativity.
“We are all just big kids playing on the big
Runover
and it’s great, you can sell it and it works. I’ve
Don’t call him “artisanal.” Or part of “the
planet and having a big fun time! So we
been catching up with ‘House of Cards.’ On
Bespoke Movement.” Or worse, a “fashion
create the worlds we are most happy in. This
the surface you would think it is so different
designer”…“I f*n’ HATE that. I wanna be a
is his.” Lucky for us, Halvorson’s Cowboys &
from ‘Game of Thrones,’ but it’s really very
craftsman. The finest craftsman in each of
Aliens world kerplunked itself down right
similar. Power and politics.” He mentions he
my trades.”
smack in the middle of L.A.
A mind as complex as this is best
Meanwhile, Maxfield, the ever-experimental
and I disagree mildly, commenting that there
summed up simply: He makes things.
Beverly Hills emporium, was back knocking
was nothing to learn except rich guys like
Painstakingly. So many things it’s almost
on his discreetly unmarked door, becoming
hookers and drugs. “I thought it was a great
inhuman. All by hand. His methods might
more and more enthralled with this world by
movie. I don’t go to the movies necessarily to
be described as simultaneously arcane and
the evolution of what the now-local visionary
be educated about morals. Sometimes it’s
futuristic, and the processes he goes through
describes as his “enter an Alice in Wonder-
important, but I don’t think we should be
verge on creative lunacy. Art, fashion,
land maze and come out through a casino.”
afraid of letting people make up their own
objects, food and drink, friendships—the
After the huge success of the hand-tatted
minds. There’s nothing worse than people
lines are preternaturally blurred. “This place
pigskin bags, the retailer stepped it up by
stuffing a message down your throat.”
is not for everyone. The things I make are for
commissioning him to re-create the dramatic,
He’s currently on location in Sydney
The Purist. I wanna set the Holy Grail
always evolving installations of his studio
working on Alex Proyas’s new action adventure
standard for American craftsmanship,” he
in-store, in the coming months. Each new
Gods of Egypt, where he plays the mythological
says. But there’s not a single indication of
output, which will come to include more
god Horus, costarring alongside Gerard Butler
any kind of stress or strain about him. No “I’m
women’s wear, new executions of the coveted
and Geoffrey Rush. Here, he’s stayed low-key
not precious, but I’m precious” posturing. At
shoes (“Only eight days of dedicated hand-
and largely unspotted by the paparazzi, waiting
any moment he could be hand-cobbling a
work from client-order to final delivery!”
for the arrival of his wife, Nukaka, an actress
shoe out of rhinoceros hide; building a room
he says. “Who does that?”) and future-cult
and singer from Greenland whom he married
walled with giant illuminated mug-shot
accessories. Also studiously dismembered and
in 1998, and their two daughters, 10 and 14,
portraits—on a sudden impulse—as a back-
re-Frankensteined jeans paired with impos-
from their home in Denmark. He is far more
drop for an impromptu dinner for 25 friends,
sibly, identically distressed rock tees…and
interested in discussing the potential perils of
all to be seated confronting the criminals in
more. It’s all on its way as fast as he can make
Australian wildlife and whether or not he
sturdy old wooden jurors’ chairs while they
it—debuting first in a diorama Halvorson
should even show his girls the chart he has of
sup. The next minute, tracking down a guy
devised from his personalized vision of the
enjoyed Scorsese’s The Wolf Of Wall Street,
C 112 MEN’S SPRING 2014
Ramones’ old stomping grounds, the now-
hard with his hands. His “general store” has
current culture of logo-as-luxury, turn, aim
defunct legendary NYC rock club CBGB.
outfitted the likes of Brad Pitt, Jude Law,
and shoot. To wit: One day he decided to
His spectacularly shambolic yet exquisitely
Damien Hirst and more than a few logo-averse
buy a vintage Louis Vuitton bag, keep the
tailored clothes—each piece individually
art-world insiders who look as impressively
excellent, basic-bones construction but
requiring an alchemy of ingredients gathered
refined but resolutely masculine in the
jettison the much-sought-after logo part,
from Montana to Motown, assembled in
sophisticated Civil War kind of deshabille
replacing it instead with his own version—
Tokyo on antique sewing machines and
his clothes convey.
in hand-cured, tattooed pigskin—the “LV”
hand-finished here—will get a full-on
Design-obsessive actress Diane Keaton is
pattern re-rendered less perfectly and more
Love
a fan too, and MadeWorn for Women is
painterly, in an arrestingly unique and,
Hotel”?). All individually conceived to give
coming along nicely, in a naughty-school-
some may say, more exclusive incarnation
the goods a more accessible place to live
marm sort of way. “An Amish whore, but no
of the original one your secretary now
and
disrespect, and a beautiful, strong girl too,”
owns, even if hers might be a fake. It’s
he says. Let your mind wander.
expensive. It looks “off.” Like something
installation
breathe
too
(maybe
beyond
the
“Tokyo
Culver
City
studio…eventually, he says, growing into a freestanding international enterprise.
His may be a New World of luxury for the
you recognize as quality but at the same
Beardy and top-hatted, Halvorson may be
future, as the idea of what real “exclusivity”
time have never seen before. And some
his own best model, in studiously shredded
actually means shifts. Like Lord Byron’s
people in the world, growing tired with the
and stained denim—“Jeans are the most in-
exquisite, Old World dueling pistols, Halvorson
sameness of global branding, find the idea of
sanely personal thing of all,” he says—
is about a kind of honor. An elegant
purchasing an artifact like that, under the
rumpled Confederate vest and the vascular
marksman when it comes to everything
weirdly wise and watchful eye of a 30-foot
forearms of someone who works long and
MadeWorn, he’ll go 20 paces with the
giraffe, exceedingly luxurious indeed. •
SHOPPING GUIDE ON OUR COVER
MAN OF THE HOUR
Shopping Guide
Bottega Veneta twill viscose Pearl Painted jacket, $2,650, and twill viscose Pearl Painted pants, $980, Bottega Veneta, B.H., 310-858-6533. Sandro white knitted Clash T-shirt, $130, us.sandro-paris.com.
TABLE OF CONTENTS Zegna V-neck sweater, $395, Ermenegildo Zegna, B.H., 310-247-8827. Etro white polo with neon orange trim, $346, Etro, B.H., 310-248-2855. Vilebrequin blue and white MORIO gingham print swim trunks, $225, vilebrequin.com.
C STYLE SILVER FOX p.52 Bowers & Wilkins P3 foldable headphones, $200, mrporter.com. Dior Homme grey cotton pique polo shirt, $380, Dior Homme, B.H., 310-247-8003; S.F., 415-391-1363; diorhomme.com. Paul & Shark reversible Bovine leather belt, $210, Paul & Shark, B.H., 310-246-9744. Emporio Armani bag, $1,545, armani.com/us/emporioarmani. Tommy Hilfiger sunglasses, $135, Tommy Hilfiger, WeHo, 310-247-1475. Bell & Ross crystal and alligator leather WW1 Argentium Opaline Dial watch, $5,900, bellross.com. Turnbull & Asser polka-dot silk pocket square, $95, mrporter.com. Tom Ford gray Barnes espadrilles, $550, Tom Ford, B.H., 310-270-9440. Hermès carbon and calfskin leather Le Flâneur d’Hermès bicycle, $11,300, Hermès, B.H., 310-278-6440. Tommy Bahama cashmere beanie with cuff trim, $108, tommybahama.com. Balenciaga gray 48 Hour AJ bag, $1,985, similar styles available, Balenciaga, WeHo, 310-854-0557. Maison Martin Margiela knitted cotton and
linen-blend sweater, $590, mrporter.com. Saint Laurent by Hedi Slimane leather sneakers, $575, Saint Laurent, B.H., 310-271-4110. Kent & Curwen slim fit 5-pocket jeans, $195, kentandcurwen.co.uk. GAME TIME p.54 Patek Philippe men’s Aquanaut Travel Time watch in stainless steel, $36,400, Geary’s, B.H., 310-273-4741. Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Compressor Diving watch, $14,000, Jaeger-LeCoultre, B.H., 310-734-0525. Rolex stainless steel Oyster Perpetual GMT-Master II watch, $8,950, rolex.com. Tudor steel Heritage Chrono Blue watch, $4,425, tudorwatch.com. TAG Heuer special edition JACK Heuer 1887 Carrera watch, $7,800, shop.tagheuer.com. COAST IS CLEAR p.58 Prada button down shirt, $1,150, select Prada stores; prada.com. Panerai steel Luminor Marina watch, $8,300, Panerai, B.H., 310-228-1515. Tommy Bahama Maui Midnight Soiree swim trunks, $98, tommybahama.com. Gucci slip-on sneakers, $425, mrporter.com. Mollusk navy Olde Whale hat, $35, store. mollusksurfshop.com. Sandro sweater, $375, mrporter.com. Hess moontail handplane, $140, hesssurfboards.com. California Surfing and Climbing in the Fifties by Yvon Chouinard, Steve Pezman, and Steve Roper, $39.95, artbook.com. Berluti leather Gaspard wallet, $955, Berluti, C.M., 714-641-3582. Prada printed Saffiano bag, $2,200, select Prada stores; prada.com. Salvatore Ferragamo brown tortoiseshell sunglasses, $375, Salvatore Ferragamo, B.H., 310-273-9990. Tommy Bahama paddle ball set, $79, frontgate.com. Saint Laurent shirt, $890, mrporter.com.
p.80-81 Emporio Armani perforated neoprene jacket, $1,025, Emporio Armani, B.H., 310-2717790. Sandro T-shirt, see On Our Cover. Tommy Hilfiger white William pants, $99, Tommy Hilfiger, WeHo, 310-247-1475. p.82 See Table of Contents. p.83 Burberry Prorsum indigo gingham Sou’wester jacket, $2,495, burberry.com. Tommy Hilfiger Brooklyn Twill Boston shorts, $69, Tommy Hilfiger, WeHo, 310-247-1475. p.84 Emporio Armani jacket, $1,095, and shirt, $425, Emporio Armani, B.H., 310-271-7790. Etro brown paisley printed linen shorts, $540, Etro, B.H., 310-248-2855. Burberry Prorsum purple loafer boat shoes, $485, burberry. com. p.86 Prada Kid Mohair jacket, $2,595, select Prada stores; prada.com. Sandro T-shirt, see On Our Cover. Bottega Veneta pants, see On Our Cover. p.87 Burberry Prorsum pale yellow shirt, $495, burberry. com. Etro multicolored paisley swim trunks, $270, Neiman Marcus, B.H., 310-550-5900. p.88 Etro blue tropical print linen button down shirt, $454, Etro, B.H., 310-248-2855. p.89 Gucci cotton crêpe New Palma jacket, $2,890, and cotton crêpe sharp pants, $1,590, Gucci, B.H., 310-278-3451. Tommy Hilfiger custom fit stretch shirt, $59, usa.tommy.com. p.90 Paul & Shark wool Cool Touch vest, $585, Paul & Shark, B.H., 310-246-9744. Tommy Hilfiger Charley Bomber, $229, and Derek shorts, $89, Tommy Hilfiger, WeHo, 310-247-1475. Sandro T-shirt, see On Our Cover. p.91 Etro white linen button down shirt with embroidered scorpions, $419, Saks Fifth Avenue, B.H., 310-275-4211, and khaki trousers, $447, Etro, B.H., 310-248-2855. Vacheron Constantin white gold Patrimony watch on alligator strap, $27,800, Vacheron Constantin, B.H., 310-598-2026.
C Magazine (C For Men Spring 2014) is published 12 times/year by C Publishing, LLC. Editorial office: 1543 7th St., Santa Monica, CA 90401. Telephone 310-393-3800, Fax 310-393-3899, E-mail (editorial) edit@magazinec.com. Postmaster: Send address changes to C Magazine, P.O. Box 460248, Escondido, CA 92046. Subscriptions Telephone 800-775-3066 or E-mail cmagcustomerservice@pcspublink.com. Domestic rates are $19.95 for one year (12 issues); for orders outside U.S., add $15 postage. Single copies available at newsstands and other magazine outlets throughout the United States.
CALIFORNIA C AP TUR IN G THE GOLDEN STATE OF MI ND
C California
The Beach Boys didn’t exactly grow up on the beach. Brian, Dennis and Carl Wilson, their cousin Mike Love and next-door neighbor David Marks (who briefly replaced Al Jardine) grew up in Hawthorne, a middle-class inland suburb of L.A. The moniker was actually a mistake—the boys had decided to call themselves The Pendletones after the wool branded sweaters that were popular at the time in the South Bay. Upon the release of their first single (“Surfin’ ”) in 1961, the record label had instead dubbed them The Beach Boys. Their first album, Surfin’ Safari, was released a year later, followed by Surfin’ USA. Ironically, the only avid surfer among them was Dennis (the one checking out the waves).
C 114 MEN’S SPRING 2014
WRITTEN BY KELSEY M c KINNON. MICHAEL OCHS ARCHIVES/GETTY IMAGES
THE BEACH BOYS (DENNIS WILSON, DAVID MARKS, MIKE LOVE, CARL WILSON, BRIAN WILSON), AUGUST 1962
Fashion Valley Mall
In 1839, Vacheron Constantin created the famous pantograph, a mechanical device allowing for principal watchmaking components to be reproduced with total precision. Elevating the quality of its timepieces even further, this invention, which also revolutionized Swiss watchmaking, would propel the brand into the future.
Vacheron Constantin
www.vacheron - constantin.com
www.thehourlounge.com
Faithful to the history upon which its reputation is built, Vacheron Constantin endeavours to maintain, repair and restore all watches it has produced since its founding: a sign of excellence and confidence, which continues to elevate the brandâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s name and stature.
Patrimony Contemporaine Hallmark of Geneva, Pink gold case, Hand-wound mechanical movement RĂŠf. 81180/000R-9159