Heritage in Wales 70 by Central Design Team Publications

Heritage in Wales

Time and tide: the rich story of maritime Wales

Restoration and rememberance: a tragic poet’s home

Virtual reality: step back in time from your living room

HERITAGE IN WALES ISSUE 70

The stepping stones at Ogmore Castle, an unstaffed MEMBERS’ Cadw site in Bridgend. AREA

Site reopenings: an important update from us The coronavirus pandemic has proved hugely challenging for everyone involved in the heritage and tourism industry in Wales, including Cadw. So, it goes without saying that we are hugely thankful for all the patience and support that we have received from Cadw members over the last few months. Progress has been made on reopening some of our staffed and unstaffed sites, but the safety of our visitors and employees remains of paramount importance. As a consequence, we are asking all visitors to our unstaffed sites to act responsibly, as always, and in accordance with the latest Welsh Government guidelines around travel and social distancing. When Cadw’s staffed sites reopen, general visitors will need to purchase time-allotted tickets online and Cadw members will need to book a time slot.

This approach will allow us to restrict the number of visitors at our staffed sites at any given time, to ensure we are all keeping a safe, social distance. Tickets and booking information will be available online at bit.ly/site-entry-tickets or by calling 03000 252239. To book a time slot, you will need to enter or quote your membership number. However, please note that you can only secure access for the number of people that are included as part of your membership package. For example, individual members can book one ticket, joint members can book two tickets and family members can book five tickets. You will need to bring the QR booking code with you to the site, either on your phone or on paper, and also your membership card as proof of your Cadw membership. It will not be possible to gain admission without the booking code and your membership card. Our advice is to check our website and social media channels for the latest information, including an up-to-date list of our reopened monuments. Thanks again for your continued support and we look forward to welcoming you back.

Croeso i Heritage in Wales

Caernarfon Castle lit up in rainbow colours in support of the NHS. Below: Gwilym Hughes, Head of Cadw.

I want to start by saying a huge thank you to all of our loyal members who have stayed with us during these extraordinary times. We do appreciate that you have not been able to visit your favourite Cadw sites in recent months after we took the unprecedented step of closing all of our monuments on 17 March. However, I am pleased to say that the majority of our sites that can be enjoyed outside reopened on 6 July. Detailed preparations are also underway to reopen the larger monuments — including those with visitor centres and enclosed indoor spaces — as the restrictions on indoor gatherings in Wales are relaxed and when we feel it is safe to do so. I would encourage you to keep an eye on our website for updates as the sites reopen.

I would also like to thank our monument-based teams who have been redeployed to other critical COVID-19 related work during this time. Two of our custodians, Sonja and Fiona, recount their experiences on page 24. You will also notice a new section in the magazine called ‘History Hunters’. We hope that our younger members and their families will enjoy learning about our wonderful Welsh history through Wil, Cate and Gelert the dog (see pages 25–29). This edition also includes a number of feature articles away from the current pandemic emergency, from historic place names to herbal remedies and the rich maritime history of Wales. I hope they will provide you with some light relief. Finally, we have received lots of feedback about the lighting up of our castles around Wales, both as a way of thanking those who have worked so hard to support our critical services and to remind us all that these magnificent monuments will be there to welcome everyone again when we emerge from these troubled times. In the meantime, take care and stay safe. 1

Contents HERITAGE IN WALES ISSUE 70

1 Welcome

Gwilym Hughes, Head of Cadw, welcomes you to the summer edition of Heritage in Wales.

4 News What have we been up to? Catch up with the latest news, from new discoveries at Caernarfon Castle to the heart-warming efforts of a community-fundraising group at Strata Florida Abbey, from recording Wales’s ancient coastal hillforts to protecting a fighter aircraft.

9 Wales and the sea With 1,400 miles of coast, Wales has always had a strong maritime heritage. Dr Sian Rees, joint editor of a new book, Wales and the Sea, reveals fascinating moments from our links with the sea.There is also a special offer for Cadw members.

16 Women of few words From mortar carriers to warrior princesses, Dr Erin Lloyd Jones sheds light on the ‘hidden’ role of women throughout the ages and talks about her mission to rewrite history to herstory in Wales.

19 Far more than a farmhouse From a simple farmhouse to an award-winning heritage site, Naomi Jones from Snowdonia National Park Authority charts the work to restore war poet Hedd Wyn’s former home into a fitting tribute to his legacy.

24 Swapping castles for community support

As Wales faces one of its biggest challenges in generations, our custodians have stepped away from their heritage sites to help communities and businesses. Here they share their stories. 2

FEATURE: WALES AND THE SEA

What you’ll find inside issue 70… Now packaged using an environmentally friendly potato starch film that is 100% compostable and biodegradable.

25 History Hunters

Welcome to our new feature for young — and young at heart! Follow Wil and Cate (and Gelert the dog) as they time travel to experience the sights and smells of castle life! Learn an ancient game and put your crafting skills to the test!

30 Virtual visits It may be difficult for you to visit our sites at the moment but, with digital trails, interactive photos and videos and even a few historical hats to try on, the Cadw app can plug that heritage gap until we can welcome you back!

34 Nature’s first-aid kit Need to balance your humours? Join us to explore medieval herbal remedies and how they could help us in the twenty-first century.

37 A glimpse of the past 41

What’s in a name? Bill Zajac reveals how a short walk from your home can shed unexpected light on the community in which you live — and how you can contribute to Wales’s list of historic place names.

41 Archaeology from your armchair If the lockdown has left you wanting to dig a little deeper into our Welsh heritage, Dr Jon Berry has uncovered a range of online learning opportunities to get you going.

44 Members’ area Crack the crossword for the chance to win a Panasonic compact camera, plus an update on your Cadw membership.

48 Conservation action Discover how we are sensitively repurposing Tretower Court and Castle’s magnificent fifteenth‑century barn into a first-class visitor centre. 3

Vanishing hillforts! HERITAGE IN WALES ISSUE 70

An aerial view of Dinas Dinlle hillfort, Gwynedd, photographed to record the erosion that has already taken place. © Crown Copyright: RCAHMW

Some of our most visually spectacular prehistoric monuments are the Iron Age promontory forts that crown the high clifftops around the Welsh coastline. The forts, which were built and occupied during the Iron Age and Roman periods, are reminders that the Iron Age tribes of Wales were part of a wider network of communities spread across western Europe from Spain to Scotland. The coastal forts were built to impress. With locations chosen for their excellent visibility and protected by deep ditches and high earth banks, the forts were originally enhanced by timber palisades and gates. The interiors must have been no less impressive and crammed with roundhouses. But while the defences may have withstood human invaders, they are no match for wind and rain and, over time, erosion will ultimately destroy them. Cadw is supporting a range of projects to investigate and record key promontory forts before they are irreversibly damaged. Last summer, two excavations involving archaeologists from the Welsh archaeological trusts, the Royal Commission on the Ancient and Historical Monuments of Wales (RCAHMW) and the National Trust took place at Dinas Dinlle in Gwynedd and Porth y Rhaw in Pembrokeshire. To find out more, visit the Royal Commission’s Cherish project website — cherishproject.eu — and the websites of the Dyfed (dyfedarchaeology.org.uk) and Gwynedd archaeological trusts (heneb.co.uk). 4

Much of Porth y Rhaw hillfort, Pembrokeshire, has already been lost to the sea. © Crown Copyright: RCAHMW

An archaeologist undertaking a survey at Porth y Rhaw.The sheer scale of the hillfort is apparent, as well as the erosion to the fort’s interior. © Crown Copyright: RCAHMW

NEWS

Climate change challenge Some of Wales’s most iconic historic sites and landscapes are threatened by warmer temperatures, rising sea levels, changing rainfall patterns and more frequent extreme weather events. To help combat the impact of climate change on our historic environment, an expert group has launched a new plan, Historic Environment and Climate Change in Wales: Sector Adaptation Plan. The plan highlights the need for collaboration and action across all sectors to improve understanding, build adaptive capacity and increase the resilience of the historic environment — so that it can be enjoyed by future generations. It results from extensive consultation with stakeholders and complements the actions in the climate change adaptation plan for Wales, Prosperity for All: A Climate Conscious Wales, recently published by the Welsh Government. At the launch of the Sector Adaptation Plan, the Deputy Minister for Culture, Sport and Tourism, Lord Elis-Thomas said: ‘I would like to thank the Historic Environment Group for leading the way with this plan. It identifies climate change risks, opportunities and adaptation needs for the historic environment. Above all, it is a rallying cry to us all to rise to the challenge and start taking action now.’ A copy of the plan can be found on the Cadw website — bit.ly/sector-adaptation-plan

Saving lives at Strata Florida Abbey Following five years of fundraising, staff at Strata Florida Abbey and the local community have not only raised enough money to buy a defibrillator for the site, but have also supported other charitable projects in the process. The atmospheric Cistercian abbey, known as the Westminster of Wales, is a popular destination for walkers, cyclists and motorists visiting the beautiful Cambrian Mountains. The need for a defibrillator was highlighted six years ago when a cyclist collapsed with chest pains at the abbey. Thankfully, the rider was fine, but the potentially life-threatening situation led staff to realise that on such a remote site, a defibrillator could be the only thing that could help to save somebody’s life. Site custodian Julie Mather, and two residents from Pontrhydfendigaid, formed a fundraising group called Marchnad Dolig Bont. Their aim was to organise an annual, winter craft market in the village to raise money for a defibrillator. After five years and a lot of local support, the group have achieved their fundraising target and recently purchased a defibrillator from Welsh Hearts — the heart charity for Wales. They have also been able to support several charities in the community. The staff at Strata Florida Abbey are extremely grateful to Marchnad Dolig Bont for their hard work and commitment to a great cause. They would also like to thank the craft traders and the generosity of the local community who have supported the Christmas market over the years. Julie also paid tribute to Welsh Hearts for their patience, generosity and support. She said ‘None of this would have been achieved without the joint effort of so many people. As well as providing a potentially life-saving device, this project has shown what amazing things can be achieved when working together with our local communities.’ 5

HERITAGE IN WALES ISSUE 70

A natural and historic partnership Harlech P-38F

scheduled for its historic importance and future protection Gwilym Hughes, Head of Cadw, and Clare Pillman, Chief Executive of NRW.

A Memorandum of Understanding has been signed and sealed between Cadw and Natural Resources Wales (NRW). The agreement sets out a platform for both organisations to work together to support an accessible, sustainably managed and wellprotected natural and historic environment that will contribute positively to the economic, cultural and social vitality of Wales. The signing took place in February at an event hosted by Cadw and included representatives from Cadw, NRW and the four Welsh archaeological trusts. The Trusts already have a Memorandum of Understanding through which they provide information and advice on the historic environment in support of NRW’s work. The agreement formalises a fruitful relationship between Cadw and NRW. Recent collaborative projects include the realignment of the storm-damaged Second World War anti-invasion defences on Fairbourne Beach, Gwynedd, and conservation measures in the Dyfi Estuary. 6

An American fighter plane which crashed during the Second World War has been scheduled by Cadw — making it the first legally designated military aircraft crash site protected for its historic and archaeological interest in the UK. The Lockheed P-38F Lightning fighter aircraft crash-landed on Morfa Harlech, off the north Wales coast, in September 1942 and is the best preserved military aircraft crash site in Wales. Buried around 2m (7ft) below the sands, it has been uncovered three times since it crashed — the first sighting being in the 1970s, in 2007 and most recently in 2014. The pilot at the time of the incident was Second Lt. Robert F. Elliott, 24, of Rich Square, North Carolina, who flew from Llanbedr, Gwynedd, on a gunnery practice mission and encountered difficulties — resulting in the crash-landing. The pilot walked away safely from the incident, but was reported missing in action a few months later. A nephew of the pilot, Robert Elliott, today lives in Kingsport, Tennessee and is a retired US Navy pilot and a member of the 49th Fighter Squadron Association. He said: ‘I am honored and delighted that Cadw has given official recognition of my uncle’s P-38F as a Scheduled Ancient Monument. My uncle was among those brave and expert fighter pilots who served with distinction during the Second World War. My visit to the site with my wife Cathy in 2016 was very moving and emotional.’ Deputy Minister for Culture, Sport and Tourism, Lord Elis-Thomas, said: ‘This site is of international significance and I’m delighted that this designation underlines its special qualities and protects it for the benefit of future generations. Sites such as this represent events which must not be forgotten and Wales will always remember all those who contributed to securing the peace we are so fortunate to enjoy today’.

NEWS

Water refill stations introduced at Cadw sites

When you’re able to get out and explore Wales’s historic sites, it’s essential to stay hydrated. That’s why we want free, cold water to be easily accessible to everyone who visits one of our spectacular historical monuments — and we’ve recently made it a reality at eight Cadw sites across Wales. Located at some of our most visited sites, including Caerphilly Castle, Conwy Castle, Harlech Castle and Tintern Abbey, our brand new water stations will not only hydrate visitors but will also help to reduce single-use plastic at our sites — a cause that we’re really passionate about. We hope that the new facilities will encourage members and visitors alike to bring their own refillable, eco-friendly water bottles to Cadw sites. And, if you don’t have a reusable water bottle to hand, use your members’ 10% discount to buy one of Cadw’s Chilly’s bottles at selected Cadw gift shops or online — cadwmembership.service.gov.wales/ products. Guaranteed to keep your water cold for 24 hours, these stylish bottles are the perfect addition for a day of exploring in the sunshine. Lord Elis-Thomas, Deputy Minister for Culture, Sport and Tourism, using our new water station at Caerphilly Castle.

Cadw’s Harlech Castle guidebook wins ACE award for ‘Best Publication’ We are delighted to announce that Cadw has won the ‘Best Publication’ award at the Association of Cultural Enterprises awards this year, while Cadw’s Commercial Manager, Shuna Williams, was recognised as a finalist in the ‘Outstanding Contribution to Cultural Heritage’ category. The ACE awards celebrates commercial best practice in the cultural and heritage sector throughout the UK. Harlech Castle’s guidebook took home the gold award for ‘Best Publication’ and was praised by the judges for its ‘appealing cover and accessible price’. The winning guidebook forms an integral part of visiting the attraction. It includes a wealth of expert information about the castle’s history, as well as illustrations, maps, and artists’ impressions showing how the castle looked in its heyday. Plus, it aims to improve the visitor experience by promoting Welsh history to different audiences. The guidebook is available in both Welsh and English and serves as a souvenir of a visit to the World Heritage Site. A highly deserving finalist, Shuna was acknowledged for her unrivalled expertise in managing all aspects of Cadw’s third-party hire events — from large-scale events at some of our most prized historic monuments to charity based functions in support of local communities. The judges commented: ‘Shuna has been playing an integral role at Cadw for over 20 years and managing over 400 events is certainly no small feat! She clearly manages the balance between commerciality and conservation brilliantly within her organisation’. A huge congratulations to both Shuna and the Cadw publications team on this fantastic achievement and for helping to represent Cadw’s work on a UK-wide stage. 7

A fragment of a late 16th-century decorated Cistercian cup.

HERITAGE IN WALES ISSUE 70

New discoveries shed light on old castle

A late 16th-century Cistercian two-handled flared mug.

A 17th-century plate sherd with a sun motif. An aerial view of Caernarfon Castle’s lower ward showing the archaeological excavations in progress and (right) some of the pottery discovered at the site.

In preparation for services to be installed in the new visitor centre in the King’s Gate, archaeologists have been busy excavating a trench in the lower ward of Caernarfon Castle. In doing so, they have made some exciting discoveries — catching a glimpse of a castle that predates Edward I’s masterpiece and discovering some nineteenth-century reconstruction. Archaeologists believe they have found evidence for a building located in the area immediately adjacent to the Eagle Tower. They focused their attention on a stub of wall that projects from the curtain wall connecting the Eagle Tower to the Queen’s Tower. When they excavated below this wall, they were surprised to find it stopped at a shallow level — and underneath it was a much larger wall foundation that was set on a different alignment. Only a small section of this earlier wall survived — the rest appeared to have been ‘robbed out’ or removed some time in the past. However, it looked suitable to support a substantial building. Following this investigation, we now believe that the visible narrow wall 8

stub may actually date to the nineteenth century and not form part of the original castle design and construction. While the visible walls may not be as old as we thought, it was a different story lower down the trench. Here, a series of deep archaeological deposits were uncovered, including some with charcoal. Radiocarbon dating of these charcoal deposits revealed that burning took place around ad 1150–1250. This activity is older than the Edwardian castle we see today (construction began in 1282) and may relate to the earlier motte and bailey castle that it replaced. Follow @cadwwales on Twitter or Cadw’s Facebook page for further updates on this exciting project. A large wall foundation was discovered below ground that hints at a building that may once have existed next to the Eagle Tower.

FEATURE: WALES AND THE SEA

WALES AND THE SEA

A fascinating new book reminds us how vital the sea has been to the history of Wales over the past 10,000 years. Dr Sian Rees, former Cadw Inspector of Ancient Monuments and one of the editors of the new volume, gives us a flavour of its contents… South Stack Rock and lighthouse, Holyhead, off the coast of Anglesey. © Crown Copyright:Visit Wales

HERITAGE IN WALES ISSUE 70

A sailor sets off in 1485 from the great port of Chester and navigates his wooden cargo vessel around Wales’s coast to access markets in Chepstow. He is only too well aware that this 1,400-mile-long coastline, forming three‑quarters of Wales’s border, holds great dangers for him. The swift currents of the Menai Strait, the sand bars off the coast near Harlech, the narrow, rocky channels around the Pembrokeshire islands and the shallow estuaries of the south all require skilful navigation as well as some luck; the ferocious winds of a sudden storm could spell disaster. Regardless of this, the sea was our sailor’s favoured mode of transport. Until the arrival of the railway, travel in Wales was a tortuous affair, with terrible roads, unreliable ferries and expensive animal-drawn carts. Much of the coastline he sails by would be familiar to us today. He would see the same mountains, river mouths, inlets and promontories. He would recognise some of the same buildings — the huge Edwardian castles of Caernarfon, Conwy and Harlech and the Norman fortress of Chepstow would be recognisable landmarks. He doubtless would use prominent coastal towers such as the church on Puffin Island, off Anglesey, as useful navigational aids.

In many ways, however, his coastline is very different from that which we understand and see today. He would not have known, for example, that the sea around north Wales would have been much further out in the early prehistoric period and that early Stone Age people lived on land now submerged beneath the waves. We only know this through modern-day research — through the work of archaeologists and divers examining wrecked vessels and undertaking geophysical surveys of the seabed prior to off-shore development. This research has revealed the evolution of the shifting coast and its use through time by prehistoric farmers and fishermen, Roman invaders, Viking warriors and medieval incomers and these are the stories related in Wales and the Sea. Our sailor would be amazed, if he returned now, at the way the coastline has been transformed by the building of our towns and cities, road and rail networks, defensive forts, offshore windfarms and huge dredgers for aggregates extraction. He would be surprised at our maritime leisure industry with its marinas and seaside resorts and appreciative of, but incredulous at, the training schools, lifeboats, lighthouses and coastguard stations that assist seamen today.

A late-medieval misericord (a small carved shelf in a choir stall) from St Davids Cathedral shows seasick passengers and depicts the cramped and miserable conditions on board medieval ships. © Crown Copyright: RCAHMW

FEATURE: WALES AND THE SEA

An artist’s impression of Harlech Castle, Gwynedd. The castle’s water gate provided access to the sea-going ships and their supplies (by Alan Sorrell, 1957).

A painting of South Stack Rock, Holyhead, by J. Carmichael (1836). It shows the lighthouse completed in 1809 and the suspension bridge built in 1827 linking the rock with Anglesey. © National Museum Wales

HERITAGE IN WALES ISSUE 70

In the 1850s, the French invasion of Italy prompted the building of a chain of artillery forts blocking the entrance to Milford Haven, including mid-channel Stack Rock. © Crown Copyright: RCAHMW

Below: A lithograph of 1830 shows Caernarfon’s Slate Quay. The young boy in the well-known sea song, Llongau Caernarfon (‘Ships of Caernarfon’) would have been standing on the quayside watching the ships loading slate and being pulled by tug around the castle to the open sea. © National Library of Wales

On the other hand, he would have expected to see many boat-building yards and small harbours, now disappeared but until quite recently dotted all around the coast and so essential for supplying small coastal settlements with their foodstuffs, building materials and markets. The sea affected the lives of all classes. Most Welsh people — farmers and fishermen, merchants and boat builders — lived by the sea and the majority of early settlements were coastal. Medieval magnates built their castles on the coast so that they could be provisioned by ship. Edward I was so determined that his castle at Rhuddlan would never be besieged that he canalised the river to ensure ocean-going vessels could reach it. The way we use the sea has changed so much in the last 100 years that we risk forgetting the exciting stories of our seafaring past. Troops were carried by sea to fight naval battles, such as the ferocious Battle of Menai Strait in 1098, right down to the last century when the seas around Wales saw massive action, heroism and tragedy in the two world wars. The defence of the realm from the sixteenth century onwards was dependent upon the forts and gun emplacements constructed around the coast, especially at Milford Haven, so inviting an entry point for potential invasion. The industry for which Wales is famed was also largely coastal. The country would never have played such a crucial part in the Industrial Revolution if there had been no ports in south Wales at Cardiff, Newport and Swansea to export coal and iron, or at Caernarfon to carry slate to roof the world.

FEATURE: WALES AND THE SEA

The fishing industry was of paramount importance from earliest times and boat building, from the great naval vessels built at Pembroke Dock to small fishing boats built in local yards, played its part in the story of our past. Wales and the Sea is written by some of Wales’s foremost historians and archaeologists. The development of coastal resorts is told through the eyes of early tourists such as Sarah Wilmot, whose diary entry of 1795 shows her outrage at sea bathing at Tenby, which she saw as ‘a disgrace to common decency’. The volume also illustrates the changing ways in which the sea is portrayed in art, from Turner’s scene of sunlit peace at the sea around Flint Castle, to the stormy waves of the Welsh coast painted by Kyffin Williams, or the painting by Lionel Walden depicting Cardiff Docks as a busy place of commerce. Many Welsh folk songs and poems were inspired by the sea, such as the haunting Galarnad Cwch Enlli (‘Bardsey Boat Lament’) that describes the tragic sinking of the local boat with the loss of six lives. Also, the well-known Llongau Caernarfon (‘Ships of Caernarfon’) about the little boy desperate to become a sailor and join the slate-bearing ships leaving the quay at Caernarfon to deliver their cargoes to far-flung markets around the world. Wales and the Sea delves into the lives of the sea-faring heroes and villains of our Welsh heritage. Heroes like James White, coxswain of the Goodwick lifeboat, honoured three times for his multiple rescues in the storms of 1875 and 1877. Or villains such as William Owen, a notorious eighteenthcentury smuggler who operated from Haverfordwest and was eventually executed in Carmarthen; and the legendary pirate ‘Black Bart’, responsible for capturing 400 ships in the Caribbean before being shot by the Royal Navy in 1722. We are in danger of losing sight of so much of this fascinating story, so Wales and the Sea helps re-engage us with our heritage and reminds us of the vital role that the sea has played in the creation of Wales’s distinctive maritime history. Top: A photograph of a shipbuilding scene at Porthmadog, Gwynedd, one of many yards that would have been dotted around the coast. © Gwynedd Archive Service Middle: A photograph, taken in about 1910, shows a busy beach scene at Aberystwyth with the pier in the background. © Crown Copyright: RCAHMW Bottom:The heroic rescue of fishermen by the lifeboat Sunlight No. 1 at Llandudno as reported by The Illustrated London News, 19 October 1889. © Crown Copyright: RCAHMW

HERITAGE IN WALES ISSUE 70

Safety at sea Concern for safety at sea grew throughout the nineteenth century. By 1845, the Board of Trade had introduced voluntary examinations for officers on ships sailing in foreign waters. The Mercantile Marine Acts of 1850 and 1854 made them compulsory — firstly for foreign-going seamen and then for those in home waters. Consequently, nautical academies began to appear all around the coast of Wales, mainly in major ports, but also in smaller coastal towns. These academies were not infrequently run by women. This was not unexpected as coastal businesses were often family affairs and women would travel with their husbands on local cargo ships. Navigational skills were, therefore, a useful requisite for all family members. Two well-known tutors were Ellen Edwards (1810–89) who ran the academy in Caernarfon, and Sarah Jane Rees (1839–1916), whose academy was located in Llangrannog. Sarah was a formidable character who studied navigation in London. She obtained her master’s certificate which qualified her to command a ship anywhere in the world. As well as running her own navigation school, Sarah was also a poet and active campaigner for the Temperance Union, a social movement that opposed the consumption of alcohol. Sarah Jane Rees (top) and Ellen Edwards (bottom) were among many women running the nautical academies that sprang up along the Welsh coast to teach the syllabus introduced by the Mercantile Marine Act of 1850.

FEATURE: WALES AND THE SEA

Wales and the Sea is published by the Royal Commission on the Ancient and Historical Monuments of Wales and is available to Cadw members at the special price of £22.50 (RRP £24.99) with free delivery. To order, please tel. 01970 621200 or order online using the enquiry form, addressing it to ‘book sales’ — rcahmw.gov.uk/about-us/contact-us

Use the Cadw app to find out more about Wales’s deadliest storm — the Great Storm of 1859. A Victorian news anchor will introduce ‘live’ reports from 13 different locations around the Welsh coast, straight to your mobile phone or tablet. How to get the Great Storm on your phone or mobile device: • Search for Cadw in the App Store (android or apple) • Download the App • Download the Storm Trail in the ‘Find a Digital Trail’ section.

HERITAGE IN WALES ISSUE 70

WOMEN OF FEW WORDS… Dr Erin Lloyd Jones, Cadw’s Senior Digital and Publications Manager, talks about her mission to rewrite history to herstory in Wales.

‘You don’t look like an archaeologist’ is something I have heard many times over the years. I’m not exactly sure what an archaeologist is supposed to look like, but let me tell you — we come in all shapes and sizes. And women dig archaeology too. How about the history books though? I’m sure you’ve heard of Owain Glyndŵr, Harri Tudur aka King Henry VII and St David, but where were all the women? Cooking, cleaning and making tapestries? Not quite. In fact, far from it… From as early as the tenth century, Wales was a pioneer of equal rights. The Laws of (King) Hywel Dda, a system of native Welsh law, were incredibly forward-thinking, especially compared to rules introduced by the English kings. For example, marriage was treated very differently; if a man cheated on his wife, he was punished. The woman’s dowry was the woman’s right; only if a couple had been married for over seven years did they have an equal share. 16

King Hywel’s laws stretched further than just women, too. Illegitimate children, for example, held the same rights as those born in wedlock. And it worked both ways, of course. One of my favourite examples is that if a woman ‘wished a blemish on her husband’s beard’, it was punishable by a beating! Back in 2016, I worked on interpreting the complex history of Beaumaris Castle, the last castle built by Edward I in north Wales. As it was a royal castle, many of the accounts survive, including the details of the skilled workers responsible for building the castle. Whilst working on the project, though, it became clear that there was hardly any information about the role of women on a medieval building site such as Beaumaris Castle. When Beaumaris was being built, we know that there were masons, carpenters, glaziers and soldiers. But every worker I read about in the history books was male. So where were all the women? Did wives follow their husbands to wherever paid work took them? Or were homes and families abandoned for long periods of time as the male workers left to take on new building projects around the land? A passage from the early fourteenth-century accounts of the building works at the castle offers a tantalising glimpse. Rather than being ‘left behind’ at home or simply ‘camp followers’, it became clear that women held a much stronger and more significant role in medieval Britain. Top left: Dr Erin Lloyd Jones — archaeologist, explorer, presenter and a voice for women, past and present. Above: A new publication, Welsh Women Making History, was launched by Cadw at Beaumaris Castle to celebrate International Women’s Day.

FEATURE: WOMEN OF FEW WORDS…

Accounts for Beaumaris in May 1307 document that a ‘Cecilia of Kent’ and ‘a woman helping her’ were paid for working on ‘pilum’ (horsehair) for ‘springalds and other engines’ at Beaumaris Castle. A springald was a big crossbow on a mount or frame that used a cord — possibly horsehair — to launch stones or bolts. These women were helping to make weapons. References to medieval women, especially those of non‑noble birth, are rare and working women in trade even more so. This account at Beaumaris clearly reveals a skilled worker, with an assistant, being paid the same daily wage as a (male) carpenter or mason. ‘Cecilia of Kent’ was paid three shillings within this specific account and received a weekly

wage of 18d. Her assistant was paid 2d for one week. These skilled workers just happened to be female. Further research has revealed other women working at Caernarfon Castle: ‘Juliana filia fabri’ (meaning ‘daughter of a carpenter’), ‘Emmota filia fabri’, ‘Eleanor de Engelond’ and ‘Julia uxor Ade’, are listed as hottarri (hodmen) and fauconarii (mortar carriers). The re-examination of original accounts has brought to light highly-skilled early fourteenth-century women workers in north Wales. These tantalising glimpses left behind encourage a re-evaluation of the masons who built the castles of Wales and a refreshing new perspective on the role of women in medieval Britain.

Top left:Through celebrating the achievements of Welsh women in the past, Erin hopes to inspire young girls to believe that anything is possible if you set your mind to it. Top right: Based on references to castle building in medieval manuscripts, this reconstruction depicts masons at work on a tower; were they all men? Above: As with all of Edward I's castles in north Wales, the construction of Beaumaris is especially well documented.This section from the 1295 building accounts records wages paid to diggers and minor workmen. © The National Archives, E 372/158.

HERITAGE IN WALES ISSUE 70

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Gwenllian and Dr Kate12 Roberts, two of the twelve women depicted in the new book, Welsh Women Making History. As well as giving an overview of 3 the achievements of each famous Welsh woman, the book encourages children to make their own mark 10by colouring in the pages and jotting down how they themselves have been inspired. 38052 Cadw Children's Book English.indd 12

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An installation at Caernarfon Castle celebrates the life achievements of Queen Eleanor, wife of King Edward I.

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And what about the richer women we do know a bit more about? They certainly won’t have been off doing heavy labour, but perhaps a bit more than the traditional image of sewing and making tapestries. An installation at Caernarfon Castle, for example, introduces Queen Eleanor, wife of King Edward I, and tells her story. Did you know that she was a medieval mortgage broker? There are hundreds of wonderful Welsh women — from both history and today — who deserve better recognition for their ground-breaking work. This year, for International Women’s Day, we published a new book, Welsh Women Making History, with the aim of empowering and engaging women and girls across the country. The book celebrates just a handful of our favourites, featuring twelve contemporary portraits by up-and-coming Welsh illustrator Efa Lois. From Gwenllian, our very own warrior princess in Kidwelly, to Dr Kate Roberts, ‘Queen of our literature’, who lived at Cae’r Gors in Gwynedd — you can read a snippet of their stories and imagine what they’d be like if they lived in modern times. We’ve also included some modern-day heroines, as well as spaces to add your own splash of colour and inspiration throughout the book too. So what can we learn from all of these stories? That whatever you want to be — whether that’s a writer, a builder, a mortgage broker or a scientist — you can do whatever you set your mind to. And if anyone tells you different..? I wish a blemish on their beard!

Far more than a

FEATURE: YR YSGWRN

FA R M H O U S E A small farmhouse and outbuildings at the heart of Snowdonia have won one of the ‘Nobel prizes’ of the heritage world. But Yr Ysgwrn is far more than a building; for many in Wales, it is a symbol for the complex emotions aroused by the First World War.

Mr Gerald Williams, Hedd Wyn's nephew, keeping the door open at Yr Ysgwrn — the poet's family home — in honour of a promise he made to his grandmother. © APCE/SNPA

HERITAGE IN WALES ISSUE 70

Ellis Humphrey Evans, better known as Hedd Wyn, was posthumously awarded the bard’s chair at the Birkenhead National Eisteddfod in 1917. © APCE/SNPA

A postcard showing the unveiling of Hedd Wyn’s memorial statue in 1923 in honour of his life and achievement. © Crown Copyright: RCAHMW

For Naomi Jones and thousands of other Welsh-speaking children, the story of Yr Ysgwrn was a familiar one. She had heard of ‘Hedd Wyn’, the tragic poet of the Great War. She had heard adults talking reverentially of ‘the Black Chair’ of Birkenhead; the story had echoed down through the cultural memory of three or four generations. Now, as Head of Cultural Heritage at the Snowdonia National Park Authority, she has been leading the project that has turned the modest farmhouse near Trawsfynydd into the winner, supported by Creative Europe, of an Europa Nostra European Heritage Award. The main room of the house has been restored to look much as it would have when Ellis Humphrey Evans — usually known by his pen name Hedd Wyn — was a young man there, a reluctant farmer but an enthusiastic poet. He had been forced to leave the hillsides and the banks of his beloved river Prysor for the trenches in Flanders, where he, like thousands of young Welshmen, died. Aged 29, he had decided to go instead of his younger brother. 20

In early July 1917, Hedd Wyn sent off a long ode to compete in that year’s National Eisteddfod, Wales’s greatest cultural festival. For years he had yearned to win the Chair, the most renowned of the poetic prizes. On 6 September, 1917, the adjudicators in the great marquee in Birkenhead announced that a competitor using the name Fleur-de-lis was that year’s winner. As usual, the winning poet was invited to stand but, that year, no-one did. Hedd Wyn had been killed on 31 July, 1917, on Pilckem Ridge, during the first day of the Battle of Passchendaele. A fellow Welshman recalls seeing him falling as they attacked the German trenches, grabbing two handfuls of earth as he fell. When the announcement came to the stunned crowd that the winning poet had died in the field, the chair was draped in a black sheet and many of the thousands there couldn’t hold back the tears. Hedd Wyn and the empty Black Chair of Birkenhead became history and mythology at the same time. It was in 2011 that Naomi Jones first visited the farmhouse at Yr Ysgwrn: ‘I walked into the pitch black of the gegin (kitchen) to meet Gerald Williams, Hedd Wyn’s nephew, and was enchanted for the first time by this special place’. Gerald and his late brother had kept the door of Yr Ysgwrn open since the death of their mother, Hedd Wyn’s sister.

FEATURE: FAR MORE THAN A FARMHOUSE

The painstaking restoration of the bardic chair — known as Y Gadair Ddu (The Black Chair) — by Hugh Haley of Phoenix Conservation took place in the parlour at Yr Ysgwrn under the watchful eye of Hedd Wyn’s nephew, Gerald Williams. © Aneurin Phillips

HERITAGE IN WALES ISSUE 70

The exterior of Yr Ysgwrn,Trawsfynydd, the home of Hedd Wyn. © APCE/SNPA

Without asking for a penny, they had welcomed visitors from all over the world and spent time with them, telling their tragic tale. Naomi Jones was there as part of the team negotiating to take care of the farm and its heritage, helping Gerald, who was then in his 80s, with the huge responsibility of maintaining his uncle’s memory. Since 1917, Hedd Wyn’s story had become far more than that of a lost Welsh poet; it had inspired works of art and literature and, in 1992, a feature film that was nominated for an Oscar. Hedd Wyn also represented a lost generation and the conscience of a nation; a yearning for peace and the mixture of admiration and guilt that surrounds the First World War. 22

All this can be seen at Yr Ysgwrn, which was taken into the care of Snowdonia National Park Authority in 2012. With the support of Cadw, the Welsh Government, the National Heritage Memorial Fund and the National Lottery Heritage Fund, it was reopened as a heritage centre five years later, the centenary of Hedd Wyn’s death. Under the watchful eye of Gerald, who continues to live on site, the farmhouse was restored and the Black Chair repaired; with its intricate symbolism it was carved — a wrenching coincidence — by a Flemish sculptor, Eugeen Vanfleteren. A new visitor centre was built at the approach to Yr Ysgwrn and outbuildings turned into exhibition spaces. They tell the story not only of the ‘shepherd poet’ and his work,

FEATURE: FAR FEATURE: MORE THAN WALESAAND FARMHOUSE THE SEA

but also of the war and a lost generation, of Welsh poetry, traditional sustainable farming, and the community and culture which Hedd Wyn now symbolises. The project cost £3.7 million; through it, the house has been kept intact and sensitively restored and re-presented as it would have been in the early years of the twentieth century. There are audiovisual presentations as well as live tours and walks around the land. ‘One of the many privileges of working on the Yr Ysgwrn project has been the joy of revealing the stories within the fabric of the buildings, within the 26 layers of wallpaper in the farmhouse cegin and in the collection of furniture and bardic chairs,’ says Naomi Jones.

‘ Our aspiration is that people from all over the world will be brought together to reflect on the values so closely guarded at Yr Ysgwrn — friendship, love, peace and ambition — those things that ultimately bring together cultures and communities around the world.’ ‘Through listening to the stories of the people and the place, Yr Ysgwrn’s transformation and interpretation are simple and understated but also powerful and moving.’ For details of the opening times of Yr Ysgwrn, we advise that you check the website — yrysgwrn.com — or tel. 01766 772 534 in advance of a visit. Top left: Following its restoration by Hugh Hayley, Gerald Williams stands proudly alongside Y Gadair Ddu (The Black Chair), described as ‘a rare survival’ by Welsh furniture historian, Richard Bebb. Hugh’s attention to detail meant that he was able to add to the story of the chair by identifying which parts of it were carved by the master sculptor, Eugeen Vanfleteren, and which parts were carved by his team of apprentices. © APCE/SNPA Bottom left: As part of the conservation project, two cowsheds were renovated to become exhibition and community spaces telling the story of Yr Ysgwrn and Hedd Wyn. © APCE/SNPA

Sonja Brown, Head Custodian of Kidwelly Castle, Carmarthenshire.

HERITAGE IN WALES ISSUE 70

Swapping castles for community support How Cadw custodians are supporting Wales’s battle against coronavirus Spring and summer are usually the busiest seasons for Cadw, with thousands of visitors enjoying the warmer weather at Wales’s castles, abbeys and historical houses. But, 2020 has been rather different. With staffed sites closed to the public since 17 March, many of our custodians have sought voluntary jobs to support Wales’s response to the coronavirus pandemic. Read on to find out what Cadw custodians, Fiona Sparks and Sonja Brown, have been up to since swapping their castle ‘offices’ for key roles in community support…

Sonja Brown, Head Custodian at Kidwelly Castle

Fiona Sparks, Custodian at Caerphilly Castle

‘After the castle closed, I started working as a prescription delivery driver for three local pharmacies — making deliveries between Laugharne, Pendine, Llanmiloe and Whitland. ‘The best part of the job is meeting lots of new people — at a distance, of course. But I must say, making deliveries to elderly people in isolated places has been sad to see, especially because so many of them live alone. ‘I can’t stop for long chats on my delivery rounds so I have swapped phone numbers with a few of them — offering to talk whenever they feel lonely. I hope this will make a difference to them, however small! I’ll uphold the offer after all of this is over too — I think it’s important to support elderly people in our communities, whether there is a pandemic or not. ‘If I had to summarise my experience I would say: ‘I am enjoying it but I can’t wait to have my castle back.’

‘I started my apprenticeship at Caerphilly Castle in February — only six weeks before coronavirus closed Wales’s historic sites. Leaving the castle just as I was starting to feel confident in the role was sad, but I knew that my efforts could be put to good use elsewhere. ‘Before I knew it, I was working on the Business Wales Helpdesk, answering the questions and concerns of business owners — all looking for advice and support during the pandemic. ‘The role involves more challenging and sometimes emotional interactions than I am used to having with castle visitors — but it is very rewarding. ‘I’m pleased to be supporting Welsh businesses in this way — but am equally looking forward to escaping my living room and returning to the beautiful surroundings of Caerphilly Castle, as soon as it is safe to do so.’

History Hunters

History Hunters will be appearing in every issue of Heritage in Wales. We’ll help you enjoy Welsh history! You can cut out and keep the pages if you like!

. Cate s i this ntures and l i d ve one ’m W ts of a ble I i ! s i n H lo se o on the ing yth We g . She’s r e ev ther ws ing! toge nd kno yth n a a ut abo

ng ell etti g sw s a y t a s alw s ju out Wil’s , so it’ him t s e e ap og scr re t e o t h le! n i I’m oub r t t a th of

This is Gelert. He loves digging up the past!

Come and join us on

our quest to rediscover history!

Too late . .

this toilet has been emptying into the moat!

and pee from the castle’s toilets. . .

bored

s dog en v e ell sm Not to t n t wa tha like

K E S!

there is

ong! special g gong T he best

d’s

‘T is my lor

I’m soooooo

In the garden. . .

go I’d a for f it mi swi e som t had in i er wat

farmer. He collects all the poo

Wil, there’s the gong

mTum-te-tu , te-tum e om s e mor my gong for farm

Meanwhile . .

elert G & e t a C Wil, n. . . . w o d k c o l – in

C’mon Wil, wake up! I’m filling the pool

water’s great!

uh-oh,

stle se! Ca s clo a w l t g, ful y, tha ingin Blime m e r we ver moats I’m ne .. ng.. . o g f hem. o e of t n o r nea going

that’s not a door

! ! O O OOO

Suddenly. . .

at’s gh! T h Bleur p ri e! a bit

But. . .

W IL . .

Yuck! I’m ing not swimm at in th

.. then t s u J C’mon Cate! The

for a dip

nice cool moat

nice castle. . .snore . .

Hmmm. . .snore. . .

How they poo’d in a castle loo! Beaumaris Castle is the greatest castle never built! It was never finished, but if it had been it would have been the best castle ever. Even the toilets were brilliant(ish). 30 toilets were built at Beaumaris for the soldiers and servants living in the castle. So what were they like?

There were toilets on each floor of the castle. They were small rooms with a door, and walls painted with lime to help kill the germs.

You could get into them from the top of the walls or by passages running through the walls.

They were built in a line on top of one another and each toilet was connected to a long, narrow shaft.

The wee and poo dropped down the shafts and collected in a big, smelly pit at the bottom.

There would have been a wooden seat to sit on and grass or moss was used to wipe your bum.

Extra shafts ran through the castle walls to circulate fresh air around. But, in fact, the toilets were so stinky that people often kept their clothes in them. The toxic fumes killed the lice and bugs!

The waste collected in the cesspits and dribbled into the moat. The solid stuff was dug out by the gong farmer and used as fertilizer to help grow crops. Yum!

1 2 3

5 6 3

T hes

e toi lets were the b est t hat m oney coul d buy . J u think st what it mi have ght been like f poor or a pers on li ving in a hut!

Bleur gh!

History heroes!

Whether it’s our teacher, our doctor or the delivery driver, heroes are everywhere, working hard to make our world better. Wales is a nation bursting with heroes. So many heroic people in Wales’s past helped their friends, families and communities through tough times and made their lives better.

Some of the heroes from our history that we can think of are: Gwenllian, a Welsh warrior princess, the only woman to lead a Welsh army. Llywelyn ap Iorwerth, the prince of Gwynedd who united Wales. And we can’t forget Owain Glyndŵr, the freedom fighter who fought a war to make Wales independent.

Junk modelling challenge! Your #CadwChallenge is to create a sculpture of someone special from our wonderful Welsh history to celebrate their awesomeness! Post a photo of your model on Facebook, Twitter or Instagram — Cadw Wales @CadwWales or @CadwCymru CadwCymruWales — tag Cadw and then explain your reason for choosing him/her as your hero. Do this (by 1 Sept) and you’ll be entered into a prize draw to win a Pathfinders ‘flying dragon’ mechanical toy kit.

You can use anything to bring your hero to life and it can be as big as you like. Think kitchen roll tubes, plastic bottles, cardboard boxes and egg cartons — whatever you can find around the house! Or you could use things from your garden like wood, sticks, stones or leaves. Some glue or paint might be useful as well! It’s time to get hands-on with history! Good luck!

Past playtimes

cut out tokens to play

People have enjoyed Nine Men’s Morris for centuries. It was a very popular game in medieval times and is simple and fun to play. Why not have a go?

How to play Nine Men’s Morris

Each player starts with nine tokens — you can use any tokens as long as you have nine of the same colour. Or you could cut out the tokens provided on this page.

To begin, each player takes turns to place their tokens on the board, one per play. Once all the tokens are on the board, players take it in turns to move one of their tokens: • A token can be moved from one dot to another along the lines. • A token can only be moved one place at a time. • A token cannot be moved onto a dot that is already occupied by another token.

Whenever a player forms a mill (three tokens in a row) that player can take one of their opponent’s tokens off the board (as long as it doesn’t form part of a mill itself). If all the opponent’s tokens are inside a mill then an exception is made and the player can take any token. The game is won when a player can’t move their tokens or if they have only two tokens left.

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Virtual visits We’ve developed a number of virtual experiences on the Cadw app which you can access from your armchairs and enjoy Wales’s heritage from your homes. Why not pop on to the app and browse our collections to discover monuments from your mobile?

Bringing the past to life

A reconstruction of the outer gate of Beaumaris Castle, Isle of Anglesey, on the Cadw app.

Our Interactive Photos & Images section shows what the sites look like today as well as how they may have looked or been used in the past. Swipe the screen to see how the outer gate to Beaumaris Castle — the Gate by the Sea — may have looked to medieval visitors approaching the castle. Or click on Coity Castle Gun Loops to catch a glimpse of how the fortress was used during the Civil War. Go back even further in time to discover how the entrance to Caer y Twr hillfort on Holyhead Mountain, on Anglesey, may have appeared when the fort was first built 2,500 years ago. You can also see a reconstruction of the 2,000-year-old Roman watchtower which was later built within it.

FEATURE: VIRTUAL VISITS

Neath Abbey, Neath Port Talbot.

Our Videos & CGI section contains a selection of resources showcasing our interpretation projects at some of our sites. From the comfort of your armchair, immerse yourself in our 360-degree video animations, complete with atmospheric music. See Segontium Roman Fort as it would have looked in its prime, Neath Abbey in all its former glory and Caerphilly Castle in the early 1300s.You’ll feel like you’ve stepped back in time!

Fountain Court, Raglan Castle, Monmouthshire.

Visit our Interactive Photos & Images section to enjoy a mini virtual tour around Criccieth Castle as it stands today. See the spectacular views from the hilltop and learn more about this fascinating site which was built by two of the greatest Welsh princes and yet, destroyed by a third… Or experience 360-degree photos from some of the highest points of our castles at Beaumaris and Flint.

Criccieth Castle, Gwynedd.

Our collection of Artist Impressions gives you a chance to enjoy a tour back in time to see how we imagine our monuments may have looked or been used in the past. Look inside a hut on a prehistoric farmstead on Holyhead Mountain; appreciate the greatness of Conwy Castle’s town walls — at over 1.2km (3/4 mile) in length, they are one of the finest and most complete sets in Europe; or take a peek at Raglan Castle’s impressive Fountain Court — arguably the grandest castle built by a Welshman — to see how it may have looked in the 1460s.

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Find a digital trail

Conwy town walls, Conwy.

Nearby Denbigh Castle also has impressive medieval town walls. Our Denbigh Castle & Town Wall Trail, also available on the app, is so much more than just a guide — it will help you to understand what it was like to live and work in the medieval fortress. Choose a character who will accompany you on the trail — mischievous Tom the kitchen boy, adventurous Eleanor de Clare or brave Huw the guard (an undercover spy!). Each character has a different mission to complete and you can help them by taking part in challenges at each of the 13 locations on the trail, accessible by using the map.

For an interesting trip around Conwy town walls, whilst staying put, find Conwy Jackdaws in our Digital Trails section. The trail acts as a virtual guide as you find your way around the medieval walls of Conwy, helping you explore the sights and stories of this fascinating town — all from the comfort of your own home! Tap on the arrow on the top-right of your screen to navigate to the 12 locations on the trail, where you can compete to unlock the legend of the Conwy Jackdaw. After opening each location and learning all about its history, just answer the questions correctly to collect your stamps and unlock the legend…Good luck!

FEATURE: VIRTUAL VISITS

Barclodiad y Gawres Burial Chamber, Isle of Anglesey.

Our 360-degree Panorama Trails give you the opportunity to visit some of our sites without leaving the comfort of your homes or gardens. Take an interactive trail to some of Anglesey’s burial sites — choose from Barclodiad y Gawres, Bodowyr, Bryn Celli Ddu or Din Dryfol. Your first view will ‘drop you off ’ at the roadside, then just follow the arrows. Use your phone to enjoy the 360-degree views all around you as you ‘travel’, until you reach one of the island’s magnificent prehistoric tombs. When you get there, we’ve added a bit of information about each of them — just press on the ‘i’ for information.

For those of you with a phone or tablet that is around two years old (or younger) and utilises newer technology, you may enjoy two of our most recent additions to the Cadw app:

If you fancy a bit of dressing up, Cadw-style, head over to Historical Hats to choose one of our Welsh hat filters to try on, using your phone! Take your pick from medieval hats, Tudor hats or Victorian hats, then take your pic’! Each hat is accompanied by a fun fact. Your phone or tablet’s device’s camera will find your face and pop it on your head for you. So if you’ve ever fancied wearing a wimple or think you’ll look cool in a crown, here’s your chance to get ‘snap hatty’!

Virtual Portal Windows magically transport you to a selection of Cadw sites without leaving your location. Found in the ‘Bringing the Past to Life’ section, select your chosen site and find the magical portal in your phone/ tablet’s camera screen. Move towards the window (making sure you keep safe as you move!) and you will be transported through your screen to the monument you have chosen. Look around to see a 360-degree view of where you have landed, before heading back through the portal to your home.

To get started, download the Cadw app on iphone or Android at the following link: cadw.gov.wales/app 33

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The recreated herb garden at Haverfordwest Priory, Pembrokeshire.

Nature’s first-aid kit Catherine Collins, Cadw’s expert on herbal remedies, explains how medieval physicians used plants to treat common ailments. 34

FEATURE: NATURE’S FIRST‑AID KIT

Think ‘living history’ and you may well imagine a group of performers re-enacting what life was like in the past. Look closer to home, however, and you will discover actual living history right on your doorstep, in the plants, trees and shrubs growing in your parks, gardens and in the countryside. Many of these plants have a history linked to our own, brought to the island during invasions as herbal remedies and left behind to become popular garden plants in their own right. The Romans introduced a wide range of plants to the British Isles during their numerous incursions, including the much-loved marigold, still commonly grown in our gardens today. Following the Norman invasion of Wales, it was the Cistercian monks who were influential in using plants as herbal remedies. They settled across the country and established 13 communities — the first at Tintern Abbey in Monmouthshire. A well-stocked garden would have existed near the abbey’s infirmary providing a variety of plants for use in medicines and cordials to treat the sick and aged monks. The Cistercian monks followed ‘the theory of the four humours’, adopted in ancient Greece, to explain the mysterious workings of the human body. It was believed that the body was made up of four liquids (humours): phlegm, blood, yellow bile and black bile. If the humours stayed in balance then a person remained healthy, but if there was too much of one humour then illness occurred. The humours were also linked to the four seasons of the year — yellow bile with summer, black bile with autumn, phlegm with winter and blood with spring — and it was argued that the corresponding humour was most likely to become imbalanced during these times. A good balance between the humours was essential to keep a healthy body and mind. If a patient was ‘out of humour’ — if they had an excess of yellow bile, for example — it was believed that their health could be improved by prescribing the right food, exercise and herbal medicines — known today as a ‘lifestyle change’. A recent resurgence in the popularity of using herbal remedies to treat common ailments has renewed interest in medieval texts and manuscripts that included records of treatments at infirmaries in monasteries. Some of our more popular garden herbs that are connected with these early physicians are still in common use today.

The petals of the English or Pot marigold (Calendula officinalis), a Roman introduction found naturally growing in southern Europe, were commonly used for the treatment of wounds and skin conditions. Petals were dried and then added to melted beeswax or goose fat, depending on the financial status of the patient. This was stored in jars and applied to wounds or skin conditions to assist with healing. Modern-day preparations containing calendula can now be bought to help with nappy rash and eczema. © marrakeshh/iStock

Rosemary (Rosmarinus officinalis) is another Mediterranean herb that was used in ancient Greece. Rosemary is known to symbolise remembrance, but ancient Greek scholars were recorded as using rosemary as a stimulant. They kept a sprig of the plant behind their ear and would take it out and inhale its fragrance as a way of keeping their mind alert and receptive to studying. Today, rosemary is being used in studies across the world to assist with memory loss associated with Alzheimer’s and dementia.

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Comfrey (Symphytum offinalis) is native to western Asia and was possibly introduced to Britain by knights returning from the medieval crusades. The herb was widely used to help set broken bones by making a poultice from the roots. The soft mixture was applied to the limb with a cloth where it would set rigid, hence its other common name ‘Knitbone’.

Lavender (Lavandula angustifolia formerly L. officinalis) is thought to get its name from the Latin lavare meaning ‘to wash’. It was recorded as being used during the medieval period for the treatment of anxiety, nervousness, headaches and sleep disorders. Today, pillow sprays containing lavender oil are commonly sold to aid sleep and relaxation.

Fennel (Foeniculum vulgare) is another plant introduced by the Romans which can now be found growing wild across Britain. It was used to aid digestion, but its distinctive aniseed taste and aroma mean that it is now regularly used in culinary dishes. Fennel, along with its close relative dill (Anethum graveolens), were widely used in gripe water — medicine used to relieve stomach pain — for babies. This article is for information only — if you do feel unwell, please consult a qualified medical practitioner. 36

Wales — a long tradition The Welsh law manuscripts provide a rare picture of the role of the court ‘meddyg’ (mediciner) — a picture which is ‘probably unique in medieval Europe’ according to literary historian Morfydd E. Owen. They suggest a practice which is part of a continentwide discipline using adaptations of Classical and European texts, but also show that there was a much earlier Celtic tradition. Medicine is also mentioned in the Mabinogion. The ‘meddyg’ was amongst the 24 top court officials but, according to Morfydd Owen, the role developed from mainly dealing with battle wounds to also ministering herbal remedies and dietary advice to court and king. The most famous Welsh family of doctors were Meddygon Myddfai, reputed to descend from Rhiwallon, twelfth-century ‘meddyg’ to Rhys Gryg, son of the Lord Rhys. Their manuscripts include remedies which were typical of European medieval medical treatises and there is evidence that members of the family continued to practice into the eighteenth century.

FEATURE: A GLIMPSE OF THE PAST

A glimpse of the past

Bill Zajac, Cadw’s Legislation and Policy Officer, explains how the List of Historic Place Names of Wales can shed light on a community’s history and the part you can play to add a sense of place to the past.

The town of Caerphilly sprawls below Caerphilly mountain; its history and development can be traced through the historic place names that adorn houses, streets, fields and features of the landscape. 37

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Some examples of house names from St Martin’s Road, Caerphilly.

As I left the house for my first lockdown walk, I paused to think how lucky I was to be able to get out and enjoy some regular exercise. Yet, what would be new, I thought? After all, we have been living in Caerphilly for years and we frequently walk around our neighbourhood and the town. I soon realised, however, that what was new was the opportunity to appreciate Caerphilly and what it offers at a slower pace and without the inevitable hum of traffic noise. With the time to look, it is remarkable how much one sees: overlooked place names, intriguing signage or old inscriptions over doorways and on gate posts hinting at a hidden history. Such discoveries often raise more questions than answers, but if you’d like to find out more, the List of Historic Place Names of Wales — historicplacenames.rcahmw.gov.uk — will help you uncover the history of your community. You can even add your own local knowledge to it too! The list was launched three years ago after the Historic Environment (Wales) Act 2016 placed a duty upon the Welsh Ministers to compile and maintain a list of historic place names in Wales. The Royal Commission on the Ancient and Historical Monuments of Wales undertook this task and created what is still the only statutory list of historic place names in the United Kingdom. Since that time, the Commission has appointed a full-time curator to oversee the development of the list, which has almost doubled in size to contain nearly 665,000 entries. 38

Moreover, it will continue to grow, since it aims to incorporate more historic names for settlements, buildings, fields and landscape features that can be confidently mapped. One really useful feature of the website is its mapping element. A collaborative project called Cymru1900Wales (later GB1900) provided the list’s first major tranche of place names. That project enlisted online volunteers to transcribe all of the text, including place names, from the Ordnance Survey’s second-edition County Series 6-inch/mile maps of Wales published between 1899 and 1908. These centuryold maps provide the base upon which the list’s hundreds of thousands of names are plotted. If, like me, you often want to get an idea of what a locality looked like a century ago, the list is a great place to start. By clicking a button in the top-right corner of the screen, you can toggle between the old maps and current detailed Ordnance Survey mapping. With a place like Caerphilly, a click of the button gives you a glimpse of the past: streets and housing estates vanish and named fields cluster tight around the town centre. Of course, the list also displays the fascinating historic place names of an area. The place names have been gathered from diverse sources. In addition to the 1900-era maps themselves, hundreds of thousands of field names were contributed by the Cynefin project. The Cynefin volunteers painstakingly gathered a wealth of information from the tithe maps and accompanying schedules that were produced for

FEATURE: A GLIMPSE OF THE PAST

On the List of Historic Place Names website you can toggle between historic maps and modern maps to see how an area has changed over time.

HERITAGE IN WALES ISSUE 70

more than 95 per cent of Wales between 1838 and 1850. Many other names have come from academic studies and scholarly collections. However, historic place names are not simply the stuff of maps and academic monographs. They are still integral, living components of Wales’s rich cultural heritage and countless names are yet to be recorded on the list. This is where you can help. Has your family always used the same field names and are they different from the ones on the list? Have you discovered an old house name? Any historic place name that is likely to have originated before the First World War is eligible for consideration.

Case study: the story of St Martin’s Road Caerphilly’s St Martin’s Road took its name from the chapel of ease that stood at its western end. It became Caerphilly’s parish church in 1850 and its rebuilding followed in 1877–79. The work on the church evidently preceded the development of the road; by the time of the secondedition Ordnance Survey map, only a few of the houses that now line the road had been constructed. However, by the time of the 1911 census, the street was lined with houses and most had been given names as part of their postal addresses. Many of those names can no longer be directly related to the properties, so they will not be able to be included on the list. During one of my strolls, however, I noticed two sets of names carved over doors and another name on a gate post. With those points of reference, I orientated the list of names from the 1911 census and located further surviving names on gate posts and elsewhere.Those names can now make a modest contribution to the list in this small corner of Caerphilly.

With every contribution, the list becomes a greater and more valuable resource. It embodies more of the precious legacy of our historic place names, not only recording them for the future, but also providing a sound basis for decision making in the present. To contribute to the list, get in touch with the curator by using the Contact tab on the website — historicplacenames. rcahmw.gov.uk. Alternatively, click on one of the list’s place name tabs and then on the name itself to leave a comment on that name; this is particularly useful if you want to record a variant or an alternative to an existing name.

Archaeology

FEATURE: ARCHAEOLOGY FROM YOUR ARMCHAIR

F R O M YO U R

ARMCHAIR

Surf the web this summer and get to grips with a whole host of archaeological activities that you can do from home. Dr Jon Berry, Cadw’s Senior Inspector of Ancient Monuments and Archaeology, has dug deep to uncover the best ‘finds’ to fire your imagination.

Watch and enjoy the Royal Archaeological Institute’s archive of recorded online debates and lectures. They cover the latest archaeological research on a wide range of chronological periods and subjects across the United Kingdom. Learn about Wat’s and Offa’s dykes, Roman camps and developments in our understanding of the British Neolithic, to name but a few, in these fascinating free videos.

royalarchinst.org/lectures Offa's Dyke 41

HERITAGE IN WALES ISSUE 70

Those of you itching to get your hands dirty may fancy the online courses offered by DigVentures. There is a subscription fee, but you can study courses on ‘how to do archaeology’, ‘how to do photogrammetry’ and ‘how to be a junior archaeologist’. The content of each course, approved by the Chartered Institute for Archaeologists, is user friendly and packed with videos, quizzes, case studies and top tips, together with hands-on activities that you can try at home.

digventures.com/courses

Make the most of the Council for British Archaeology’s (CBA) landmark archaeological research publications, freely available as downloadable PDFs for a limited period of time. The well-researched reports, including many published for Wales, cover a broad range of subjects including medieval towns and rural settlement, industry, wetland archaeology and coastal and inter-tidal archaeology. You can also access in-depth studies of the Breiddin Hillfort, near Welshpool, Powys; Telford’s Holyhead Road; and the Walton Basin prehistoric landscape, Powys. What’s more, the CBA’s practical handbooks, also available as digital downloads, are perfect ‘how to’ guides to help you get started in new subject areas. Learn about industrial, marine or garden archaeology, how to analyse historic landscapes or even record graveyards — there are plenty to choose from!

Breiddin Hillfort, Powys © Crown copyright: RCAHMW

new.archaeologyuk.org/books-and-publications

Sit back and listen to the series of informal online lectures being offered by Gwynedd Archaeological Trust. Based on recent work undertaken by the Trust and delivered by one of their senior archaeologists, subjects include Romans in Gwynedd and the Roman auxiliary forts in north Wales.

heneb.co.uk/newnews.html 42

Catch up on a series of free talks given by the Nautical Archaeology Society (NAS). Bite-size, half-hour presentations on topics related to underwater archaeology, maritime heritage and foreshore archaeology are available to watch on NAS’s YouTube channel — youtube.com/user/nautarchsoc. If the talks ‘whet’ your appetite, you could enrol on one of NAS’s interactive online courses (fees apply) suitable for anyone with an interest in archaeology. Study the Introduction to Maritime Archaeology and then choose between the Underwater Archaeology or Intertidal and Terrestrial Archaeology course, depending on whether your interest is diving or just getting your feet wet!

nauticalarchaeologysociety.org/elearning

FEATURE: ARCHAEOLOGY FROM YOUR ARMCHAIR

Marvel at monumental 3D computer-generated models of historical artefacts and sites, produced by the Welsh archaeological trusts and the Royal Commission on the Ancient and Historical Monuments of Wales. The ability to manipulate and fly through these photogrammetric scans of real-world antiquities with just a swipe of your hand reveals outstanding detail and clarity at a time when physical access is limited. There are many models available, but tasters include: excavated graves at Cwm Nash in the Vale of Glamorgan and a Roman dodecahedron from Cardiff Castle (Sketchfab. com/ggat); Second World War pillboxes and beautiful Neolithic polished stone axes (sketchfab.com/GAT2020); a shipwreck at Ynyslas, Ceredigion, and the deserted medieval village at St Ishmael, Pembrokeshire (sketchfab. com/Dyfed_Archaeological_Trust); and Iron Age coastal promontory forts and models of First World War U-boats (sketchfab.com/CBHC_ RCAHMW).

A circular pillbox in the Vale of Glamorgan (sketchfab.com/ggat).

sketchfab.com

If you’re looking for an uplifting and thought-provoking experience, why not pay a visit to Cadw’s very own Unloved Heritage? website. This Lottery funded project has brought together young people from across Wales to explore the heritage world around them and to tell the stories of their explorations. The content is enthusing and inspiring and the photography from the underground workshop at Dinas silica mine, Rhondda Cynon Taf, is simply breathtaking!

unlovedheritage.wales For other exciting resources to keep you busy, see our Stay at Home Heritage page on the Cadw website — cadw.gov.wales/stay-home-heritage. The information contained in this article was correct at the time of print. As a result of the ever-changing situation, we cannot guarantee that the web links will remain active for an unlimited period of time. 43

M E M B E R S’ A R E A Over the last few months, we’ve been lighting up our monuments in rainbow colours to show our support for the fantastic work being done by the NHS and key workers. Here are just a few of the comments from our lovely followers.

Castell Coch, Cardiff

Facebook Andrea Butler Castell Coch… love that place! Looks amazing Cadw #thankyouNHS Louise Goodwin I remember going there with family in Wales many years ago. It looks beautiful lit up in rainbow colours. Beryl Gray Wonderful photo, we don’t really appreciate the wonderful history we have surrounding us, do we!! It is really special.

Conwy Castle

Facebook Colin Elsbury Diolch yn fawr. Thank you for showing your appreciation for our NHS.

Instagram Travelooneyblog Hope to return to Conwy one day. It’s a special spot!

Sam Tocher Like Wales and its peeps… stay safe all… look forward to a visit when it’s safe to do so. Han Cheek The waiting will make it appreciate it EVEN more # Wales. xxx

Bettyjones11 Beautiful. Proud to be a nhs worker.

We’d like to thank Stage Lighting Services and Stage Sound Services for the wonderful lighting of Castell Coch and Conwy Castle.

An update on your Cadw membership Firstly, we would like to thank each and every one of you for your continued support and membership of Cadw during these unprecedented times. We appreciate that this is a very difficult time for everyone and it is with your valued support that we are able to protect and conserve Wales’s historic sites for the benefit of future generations, all while keeping them safe for our members and visitors.

To compensate for the unforeseen closure of Wales’s historic sites during the coronavirus outbreak and to ensure that you are getting the most out of your membership, we are offering all of our members who joined on or before 8 April 2020 six months’ of Cadw membership — for free.

How will this work? Your six months’ free Cadw membership can be arranged in one of two ways…

Option 1: It will be given to you automatically upon renewal of your current membership, for which you will be charged 50% less. Our reduced renewal fees will be in place until 8 April 2021 to ensure that all members who purchased membership on or before 8 April 2020 will benefit from this offer.

Option 2: If you choose not to renew your Cadw membership, please contact us when your annual renewal is due and we will issue you with a temporary membership card — honouring the free six months (which will start from your renewal date).

Since the beginning of the coronavirus outbreak, we’ve had countless messages from members asking how you can further support the continued care of Wales’s historic sites — and for that we can’t thank you enough! If you would like to make a donation, you can do so through our online platform: cadw.gov.wales/donate-to-cadw. We would like to thank all of our members who are working on the front-line of the pandemic and extend our well-wishes to everyone who has been touched by it. We look forward to welcoming you back, just as soon as it is safe to do so.

If you have any queries about your membership or this offer as a whole, please contact our membership department on 0800 0743121. 45

C A DW C RO S S WO R D

Win a Panasonic Lumix DMC-TZ80 camera, courtesy of Cadw! Looking forward to returning to our sites? Carry this small, but powerful, compact camera with you to capture those memories! Packed full of features, including a massive 30x optical zoom, high-speed focusing, excellent performance in low light and integrated electronic stabilisation for photos and video, this is your perfect pocket companion for your future historical explorations.You can find all the answers in this edition of Heritage in Wales. Good luck!

As a result of the coronavirus pandemic, we cannot accept entries by post. We are sorry for any inconvenience this may cause. Alternatively, you can take a photo with your phone or tablet and email it to cadwmarketing@gov.wales with ‘Crossword competition’ in the subject line. If you submit an image of a completed crossword by email, the crossword must be fully legible. The closing date for the competition is 30 September 2020. Terms and conditions: The prize is a Panasonic Lumix DMC-TZ80 camera. The prize has no cash value or alternative and is non-transferable. By participating in the competition, entrants are agreeing to receive email newsletters from Cadw until such time as they unsubscribe. The competition is not open to employees of Cadw or Equinox or members of their families and is not held in association with Panasonic.

MEMBERS’ AREA

DOWN

ACROSS

1 W ho came from Kent to make weapons at Beaumaris Castle in 1307? (7)

2 What is the name of Wil and Cate’s furry friend? (6)

3 W hich manufacturer built the Second World War plane whose wreckage lies buried on Morfa Harlech? (8)

7 What is Dr Erin Lloyd Jones’s profession? (13)

4 A t which First World War battle did Hedd Wyn lose his life? (13) 6 E ugeen __________ carved parts of the Black Chair at Yr Ysgwrn. (11)

5 Medieval doctors believed that the body consisted of four _____. (7) 9 W hich bird’s legendary story can you unlock on the virtual guide to Conwy’s Town Walls? (7) 11 Which Cadw site will be having a new visitor centre in a converted fifteenth-century barn? (8)

8 James White was the Coxwain of which lifeboat? (8)

12 P ottery from which monastic order has been found at Caernarfon Castle? (10)

10 I n which town has Bill Zajac been on the hunt for place names? (10)

13 W ho is the warrior princess depicted in Cadw’s new book, Welsh Women Making History? (9)

14 Which commodity was shipped from Caernarfon in the nineteenth century? (5)

16 W here was the National Eisteddfod at which Hedd Wyn was awarded his bardic title? (10)

15 The _____ farmer used the waste from castle toilets as fertiliser for his crops. (4)

19 Where was Sarah Jane Rees’s nautical academy located? (11)

17 Which Cadw site’s guidebook won ‘Best Publication’ at the ACE Awards? (7)

22 Which herb symbolises remembrance? (8)

20 What is another name for Comfrey? (8)

18 What sites from Cwm Nash can you view as 3D models? (6)

24 V olunteers gathered information from tithe maps and schedules for which project? (7)

21 Which hillfort can you study courtesy of the Council for British Archaeology? (8)

25 W hich Roman fort can you ‘virtually’ visit via a video animation on the Cadw app? (9)

23 N ame one of the house names discovered on St Martins Road in Caerphilly. (2,6)

26 How many toilets were in Beaumaris Castle? (6) 27 Name the Cadw site lit up in rainbow colours in honour of the NHS? (5)

Winner’s announcement

Congratulations go to… Alan Roberts from Penarth, in the Vale of Glamorgan, who completed issue 69’s Cadw crossword correctly and won a GoPro camera.

2021 Cadw calendar coming soon! Purchase our much-loved calendar online and in our visitor centres from 1 September and enjoy a daily reminder of our stunning monuments across Wales — from the royal strongholds of Edward I in the north to the tranquil Tintern Abbey and captivating Caerphilly Castle in the south. The celestial painted ceiling at seventeenth-century Gwydir Uchaf chapel in Conwy, a hidden gem, also makes an appearance.The seated figure of God the father surrounded by four cherubs with golden wings and symbols of the sun, moon and stars is the perfect image for December to lift the spirits! A must-have for any history lover and an ideal gift, your purchase helps us to conserve 130 of our historic sites across Wales. • Price: £9.95 (£8.95 for Cadw members) with postage (UK only) starting at £2.95. Visit bit.ly/Cadwcalendar2021 to buy online.

The December image: the fabulous painted ceiling at Gwydir Uchaf chapel.

CONSERVATION ACTION Enter by the barn door!

HERITAGE IN WALES ISSUE 70

The west range of Tretower Court, Powys. The medieval barn (below), located across the road from the court, will be transformed into a welcoming visitor centre for tourists as well as for use by the local community.

At Tretower Court and Castle, home to one of the most powerful Welsh families during the Wars of the Roses, Cadw is about to embark on a challenging project to conserve and convert a Scheduled Ancient Monument into a first‑class visitor centre. A barn, which originated as a fifteenth-century domestic building, will be transformed to include a new admission’s point for visitors, an office, a retail area, toilets and an exhibition space, but will still retain its external character and appearance. We will also reinstate the original first-floor storey of the building to provide an area for a tea room and a space for local community events. The new visitor centre will offer a warm welcome and improve access for visitors to Tretower, replacing the small reception area in the main courtyard. A new lift will also be installed to enable easy access to the first floor of the barn, where visitors will be able to enjoy refreshments and soak up the atmosphere of this rural retreat.

Stephen Jones, Cadw’s Senior Conservation and Design Services Manager, said ‘It’s a project that you don’t very often get to work on and it’s a privilege to do so. The design process has been very challenging as we have tried to get the right layout to address the needs of Cadw and our visitors, whilst ensuring that the new plans adhere to Cadw’s Conservation Principles’.

Visit the Cadw website — gov.wales/cadw — for future updates on our barn’s big build! 48

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16

Holyhead Mountain Hut Group Caer y Twr ˆ Hillfort Caer Gybi Roman Fortlet Penrhos Feilw Standing Stones Tyˆ Mawr Standing Stone Trefignath Burial Chamber Tregwehelydd Standing Stone Presaddfed Burial Chamber Tyˆ Newydd Burial Chamber Barclodiad y Gawres Burial Chamber Din Dryfol Burial Chamber Bodowyr Burial Chamber Castell Bryn Gwyn Caer Lêb Bryn Celli Ddu Burial Chamber Hafoty Medieval House

Capel Lligwy Lligwy Burial Chamber Din Lligwy Penmon Priory Maen Achwyfan 2 Hut Group and St Seiriol’s Well 3 Cross 7 Penmon Cross Conwy Castle Basingwerk and Town Walls ISLE OF and Dovecot 8 4 Abbey 5 16 ANGLESEY Rhuddlan Castle Plas 9 and Twthill 6 Flint Castle 11 15 Mawr Beaumaris St Winifred’s Chapel 14 Castle and Holy Well 10 Denbigh Friary, Leicester’s Church 12 Ewloe and St Hilary’s Chapel FLINTSHIRE Castle 13 Segontium CONWY Caernarfon Castle Denbigh Castle Roman Fort Caergwrle and Town Walls Gwydir Uchaf and Town Walls Castle Chapel DENBIGHSHIRE Dolbadarn Derwen Churchyard Capel Garmon Cae’r Gors Castle Cross Burial Chamber Eliseg’s Dolwyddelan Pillar Castle Rug Chapel St Cybi’s WREXHAM Well Llangar Criccieth Valle Crucis Abbey Old Parish Church Castle Penarth Fawr GWYNEDD Medieval House Harlech Castle Dyffryn Ardudwy Burial Chamber Cymer Abbey

Prehistoric site

Pont Minllyn

Roman site Castell y Bere

Castle, historic house, palace

Montgomery Castle

Religious site Historic industrial site

Dolforwyn Castle

Dyfi Furnace

Bryntail Lead Mine

Other historic site

0 Kilometres

15 10

0 Miles

POWYS

Strata Florida Abbey

CEREDIGION

St Dogmaels Abbey Cilgerran Castle Carreg Coetan Arthur Burial Chamber St Davids Bishop’s Palace St Non’s Chapel

Dryslwyn Castle CARMARTHENSHIRE

PEMBROKESHIRE Wiston Castle Llawhaden Castle

Brecon Gaer Roman Fort

Carreg Cennen Castle

Llanthony Priory

So many Cadw sites waiting to be discovered…

FIL

Heritage Cottage RHONDDA Swansea Castle SWANSEA CYNON TAF Parc le Breos Weobley Castle Burial Chamber BRIDGEND Caerphilly Castle Margam Coity Castell Coch Stones Museum Castle Oxwich Castle CARDIFF Newcastle (Bridgend) Tinkinswood St Quentin’s Burial Chamber Castle Ogmore Ewenny Castle Priory St Lythans Old Beaupre Castle Burial Chamber THE VALE OF GLAMORGAN

N FAE

TOR

Hen Gwrt Moated Site Monmouth Castle Blaenavon Raglan Ironworks Castle MONMOUTHSHIRE Tintern Abbey Chepstow Castle and Port Wall CAERPHILLY Caerleon 20 Roman Fortress 19 AU N T AE EN BL GW

NEATH PORT TALBOT Neath Abbey

Kidwelly Castle

Loughor Castle

Grosmont Castle Skenfrith Castle White Castle

Tretower Castle and Court

Llansteffan Laugharne Castle Castle

Carew Cross Carswell Medieval House Lamphey Bishop’s Palace

Dinefwr Castle

Bronllys Castle

RT ME

Haverfordwest Priory

Talley Abbey

Pentre Ifan Burial Chamber

NEWPORT

18 17

Newport Castle 17 18 19 20

Caerwent Roman Town Runston Chapel Chepstow Bulwarks Camp Llanmelin Wood Hillfort

Image: The remote ruins of Llanthony Priory, Monmouthshire, an unstaffed site in Cadw’s care. Cadw is the Welsh Government’s historic environment service working for an accessible and well-protected historic environment for Wales. © Crown copyright (2020) Cadw Editorial enquiries to: Heritage in Wales, Cadw, Plas Carew, Unit 5/7 Cefn Coed, Parc Nantgarw, Cardiff CF15 7QQ. Tel 0300 0256000 Email cadw@gov.wales gov.wales/cadw Magazine content was correct at the time of going to print. Views expressed in Heritage in Wales are not necessarily the views of Cadw. Cadw does not necessarily endorse goods or services advertised in this magazine. This publication is also available in Welsh under the title Etifeddiaeth y Cymry. For all Cadw membership enquiries please telephone 0800 074 3121.

WG40380

ISSUE 70

Heritage in Wales 70

Articles inside

Members’ area

History Hunters

Far more than a farmhouse

Wales and the sea

A glimpse of the past

Women of few words

Archaeology from your armchair

Nature’s first-aid kit

Swapping castles for community support