Heritage in Wales 71 by Central Design Team Publications

Heritage in Wales

15-Minute Heritage Finding history on your doorstep

Saints or sinners? Which statues should still stand?

Cadw: the story of a national collection 138 years of protection

HERITAGE IN WALES ISSUE 71

Make a date with the

2021 Cadw Calendar Our calendar for 2021 features a selection of Cadw sites at their very best, including our stunning World Heritage Sites of Blaenavon Ironworks and Caernarfon, Conwy and Harlech castles. Other sites making an appearance include captivating Caerphilly Castle as our cover image, Dolwyddelan Castle on a snowy hilltop, Bryn Celli Ddu Burial Chamber bathed in evening light, coastal Weobley Castle, an aerial view of Tintern Abbey, the spectacular edifice of Chepstow Castle, the impressive great tower of Raglan Castle and Castell Coch in the midst of autumn. An interior shot of the beautifully painted ceiling of Gwydir Uchaf Chapel crowns the collection for Christmas. The Cadw calendar, with space for writing notes, is a must-have for any history lover, but would also make an ideal gift. What’s more, by purchasing the calendar, you will be helping to conserve 130 of our historic sites across Wales. The calendar is available to buy in Cadw shops or online at bit.ly/Cadwcalendar2021 It is priced at £9.95 (£8.95 for members) with postage (to UK addresses only) starting at £2.95. 10% members’ discount applies in shops and online; 20% discount from 1 to 31 December* is available in Cadw shops, but not online. *Excludes alcohol, Clogau products, Cadw membership and retail lines that already carry a price reduction.

Croeso i Heritage in Wales Without doubt, 2020 has been a challenging year for us all — a far cry from what I expected as I near the end of my term as Deputy Minister for Culture, Sport and Tourism. It was with great sadness that we temporarily closed our historic sites back in March, and again in October, but behind closed doors, Cadw’s commitment to its visitors and Wales’s historic environment continued. In early April, Cadw donated food treats, including sweets, fudge, cake and biscuits, from 24 of its historic monuments to support food banks, charities, homeless shelters and school hubs across the country. Meanwhile, reduced footfall during the lockdown period allowed nature — an important part of the history of our sites — to thrive. Cadw is now working hard to maximise on-site plant and animal life with environmental works in place at three

As with all Cadw sites, safety measures have been put in place at Raglan Castle to ensure the health and well‑being of our visitors. Below: Lord Elis-Thomas, Deputy Minister for Culture, Sport and Tourism.

key sites, as detailed on page 4. Some of us were able to meet again during the summer to explore our magnificent sites in person, albeit at a two-metre distance. However, throughout September, we successfully took our Open Doors celebrations online for the first time, enabling visitors to explore ten of Cadw’s most spectacular historic sites from the comfort of their own home. For now, we have been able to reopen most of our sites and strive to ensure a safe and socially distanced visitor experience. I would like to thank you, our members, for your patience while we adapt to new measures and advice. Your ongoing loyalty towards Wales’s built heritage — even when you could not visit your favourite sites — has been hugely appreciated. At the end of a very special chapter for me professionally, I look ahead to what I hope will be a brighter 2021 for us all. For the time being, I hope you will continue to enjoy and support our magnificent castles, abbeys and historic monuments, whether in person or from afar. Wishing you all a winter of good health and happiness. 1

Contents HERITAGE IN WALES ISSUE 71

1 Welcome Lord Elis-Thomas, Deputy Minister for Culture, Sport and Tourism, welcomes you to the winter edition of Heritage in Wales.

4 News Catch up with the latest news, from our plans to encourage wildlife to thrive at our sites to our support of Keep Wales Tidy’s Green Heritage Site Accreditation scheme.

6 Conservation action

Chris Smith, Head of Conservation, provides an update on the redevelopment of the King’s Gate at Caernarfon Castle, while Steve Jones, Senior Conservation Manager, reveals work to improve the footpaths and walkways at Caerphilly Castle.

7 15-Minute Heritage With our ability to travel frequently restricted by COVID-19, Judith Alfrey, Cadw’s Head of Regeneration and Conservation, introduces Cadw’s new initiative to connect us with the heritage on our doorstep.

11 Saints or sinners? At a time of national reflection on the past, Gaynor Legall and Peter Wakelin discuss the early findings of the First Minister’s audit of public monuments and street and place names associated with the slave trade and colonialism.

16 William Marshal From relatively humble beginnings, William Marshal went on to serve five kings and put his long years of military service to good use as an innovative castle builder. Historian Bill Zajac explores Marshal’s use of the latest military building techniques at Chepstow Castle.

20 The latest listings Despite the challenges of 2020, our mission to protect Wales’s built heritage continues. Listed Building Officer Chris Stiefvater-Thomas introduces the latest buildings and structures to earn protection and dispels a couple of myths along the way. 2

FEATURE: 15 MINUTE HERITAGE

What you’ll find inside issue 71…

Now packaged using an environmentally friendly potato starch film that is 100% compostable and biodegradable.

24 History Hunters Join Wil, Cate and Gelert as they get all festive! Craft your own traditional Christmas decorations, mould sugar sculptures to decorate your table and make a cake that you could — if you wanted — leave out for Father Christmas!

29 Meet the twenty-first-century

faces behind Harlech Castle

Harlech Castle custodian, Sian Roberts and castle café manager Freya Bentham reveal what they love about their work and how they have adapted to the pandemic to create a safe and welcoming experience for visitors to the castle.

33 33 Cadw: the story of a national collection Cadw turned 36 this year, but our mission is considerably older than that. Dr Jon Berry, Senior Inspector of Ancient Monuments and Archaeology, traces the history of heritage protection from Victorian beginnings to the present day.

38 A new perspective on Bryntail Lead Mine As Cadw prepares to install new interpretation at this remarkable site in Powys, researcher and writer John Charlesworth reveals how lead, or the lack of it, has left us with a set of industrial ruins where everything isn’t quite where it should be.

41 Meet the maker: Bethan Wyn Williams 41

Artist and surface pattern designer, Bethan Wyn Williams describes her inspiration behind Cadw’s Heritage Collection, a new range of products inspired by the spectacular interiors of Castell Coch.

44 Members’ area Find the answers to solve our crossword and you could win a luxury hamper from Sloane Home, plus your membership renewal options and how to access MyCadw, the exclusive, digital members’ area on the Cadw website. 3

Caerphilly Castle’s population of Canada geese

HERITAGE 71 dam wall. can often be IN seenWALES alongsideISSUE the south

Heritage sites welcome ecological growth Following months of coronavirus lockdown, the lack of footfall at Wales’s historical sites has allowed nature to thrive — and we plan to continue maximising on-site plant and animal life in the future. Planned environmental works designed to support ecological growth will take place at Caerphilly Castle, Rhuddlan Castle and Blaenavon Ironworks. From the planting of wildflower meadows and pollinator havens to the installation of bat and bird boxes in surrounding trees, the works will mark an ecological awakening at some of our most iconic monuments. Working in partnership with independent ecological consultancy, BSG Ecology, bespoke plans at Caerphilly Castle include the reintroduction of native wildflowers to the vast greenery of the urban site and the limitation of grass-mowing to attract essential pollinators, from butterflies to bees. Meanwhile, a visual transformation of the water-filled moat is planned. Weakened by erosion in recent years, the banks will be strengthened by the growth of native pondedge plants such as Yellow Flag Iris and Purple Loosestrife — adding a splash of colour to the fortress grounds. Wildlife will also benefit from the planned works, with the introduction of water-side perches to increase foraging opportunities for kingfishers, floating rafts on the surface of the moat for nesting and the addition of bat and bird boxes among the trees. 4

Senior Ecologist at BSG Ecology, Caroline O’Rourke, said: ‘Although it will take a few years to see the real benefit of the planned ecology works at Caerphilly Castle, we hope that it will help to create an attractive, diverse and ecologically resilient space for education and amenity — a place where visitors can both enjoy and interact with nature whilst exploring the castle. ‘Once it’s safe to do so, we also hope to invite the local community to assist with a series of hands-on tasks, such as building bee boxes and planting wildflowers around the grounds.’ Similar opportunities have been identified at a number of other heritage sites across Wales. These include letting the grass grow to re-establish wildflower meadows on the riverbanks of Rhuddlan Castle and sowing wildflowers along the borders of Blaenavon Ironworks. Deputy Minister for Culture, Sport and Tourism, Lord Elis-Thomas, said: ‘As Wales and the wider world experiences this unprecedented pandemic, it is wonderful to know that, meanwhile, nature has thrived. ‘Flora and fauna are a natural part of the history of our sites and this recent period of decreased footfall has offered a perfect opportunity to plan for nurturing their influence, enhance the visitor experience and deliver our biodiversity obligations for Wales’s future.’

NEWS

Unloved Heritage? Over the last three years, as part of the Unloved Heritage? project, young people across Wales have been investigating, documenting and interpreting the heritage sites on their doorsteps. The project is coming to a close in spring 2021, but here are just some examples of what has been achieved and where you can see it: • In Blaenrhondda, Fernhill Colliery was researched and then rebuilt in Minecraft. ‘MineRhondda’ — available to download from digventures.com/projects/unlovedheritage/ — was informed by visits to the archives, oral history interviews and archaeological excavation. A heritage trail created within the digital world will show you the most interesting bits! • The stories of Dorothea Quarry take centre-stage in ‘Graen’, an augmented-reality app designed and created by young people in Dyffryn Nantlle. Available for both iOS and Android, Graen is free to download and will take you around the footpath in the quarry, sharing some of the group’s research along the way. • Investigations into a derelict rural farmhouse form the basis of a publication produced by a group in Ceredigion. Using photographs, quotes, archival research and memories, the book records the house and the participants’ experiences of it. A digital copy will be available to download from rcahmw.gov.uk.

On the People’s Collection website — peoplescollection. wales/users/29411 — you will find photography, artwork, films and 3D models produced as a result of Unloved Heritage? The project will also be collecting together the material produced to host on their own website — unlovedheritage.wales — all of which may provide inspiration for other groups who want to investigate their own local area. The legacy of Unloved Heritage? is much more than just the content that has been produced; it’s about what has been learnt from working with young people over the past three years — the emerging ideas and activities that can be used by heritage, arts and cultural organisations across Wales to continue to engage this group in heritage. To mark the end of the project, an online/physical event will be held in February 2021. If you’d like to get involved, please email polly.groom@gov. wales for further information.

The 'Graen' app, developed by participants of the Unloved Heritage? project, enables users to learn more about Dorothea Quarry, Gwynedd. Unloved Heritage? was funded by the National Lottery Heritage Fund.

Green Heritage Site Accreditation Cadw is pleased to be endorsing Keep Wales Tidy’s Green Heritage Site Accreditation. This is awarded to public green spaces that achieve Green Flag Award standards and where the heritage value of the park, garden or green space is actively understood, identified, managed and promoted. Sites that have already attained Green Heritage Site Accreditation include Bryngarw Country Park (Bridgend), Bedwellty House and Park (Blaenau Gwent), Bute Park (Cardiff), Cathays Cemetery (Cardiff), Margam Park (Neath Port Talbot), Belle Vue Park (Newport), St Fagans Museum (Cardiff), Great Orme Country Park (Conwy) and Wrexham Cemetery. Any site that is at least 30 years old, of local or national historic interest or contains features of historic interest is eligible. For further information and to apply, please visit keepwalestidy.cymru 5

CONSERVATION ACTION

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An aerial view of Caernarfon Castle with the King's Gate in the foreground overlooking the town.

Site development works to begin at the King’s Gate, Caernarfon Castle

Following the completion of enabling works at the end of September, Caernarfon Castle is fully prepared for the next stage of Cadw’s most ambitious and highly complex site development project to date. Head of Conservation at Cadw, Chris Wilson, provides us with the latest update on this £4m project: ‘After twelve months of site preparation and conservation works, resulting in some fascinating archaeological finds, we are now ready to move onto phase two of the King’s Gate project at Caernarfon Castle. We submitted detailed plans to Gwynedd County Council at the end of August. ‘We’re now in a position to award the main contract for this second phase of development works to begin later this year — it won’t be long until I can share some fascinating visual site updates with you all. With the project due for completion during early 2022, it really is set to be an exciting year for Caernarfon.’ Planned works to enhance the on-site visitor experience include a new café, interactive virtual-reality experiences and the installation of a lift which will enable visitors to explore areas and vantage points of the UNESCO World Heritage Site that were out of reach before now — including the upper embattlements and windows that overlook the town. 6

The inner ward of Caerphilly Castle.

Caerphilly Castle will benefit from improved visitor footpaths this winter Throughout November and December 2020, the footpaths and site walkways at Caerphilly Castle will be reconfigured and resurfaced to improve and facilitate visitor access across the iconic site. Cadw’s Senior Conservation Manager, Stephen Jones, gives some friendly advice on the planned walkway improvement works at Wales’s largest fortress: ‘If you are able to visit Caerphilly Castle during this period, don’t forget to bring suitable, hard-wearing footwear along with you to ensure a comfortable experience.’ It is likely that access to the inner ward will not be possible at certain times during construction. Please check the Cadw website for up-to-date information before booking your site-entry tickets — gov.wales/cadw

FEATURE: 15 MINUTE HERITAGE

15-Minute Heritage You may not have a castle or abbey next door but, if you live in Wales, you’re always within at most 15 minutes of a part of our wonderful Welsh heritage. Judith Alfrey, Head of Regeneration and Conservation, talks about Cadw’s quest to reconnect everyone with the heritage on our doorsteps.

The grounds of Cardiff Castle.

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The lockdown imposed in response to COVID-19 was a powerful reminder of the value and importance of the local environment to communities. Lessening travel, it served to reconnect people with their local area and, in many cases, strengthened the sense of community. It brought home the idea of the 15-Minute City, a planning concept through which everyone can meet most of their needs within just a short walk from their home — that the daily necessities and the services that support well‑being are all within easy reach. This concept has inspired us to think that everyone should be able to benefit from heritage within a 15-minute walk from their front door, whether they live in a town, city or the countryside. It may not always be recognised, but heritage is a vital component of every local environment and Cadw would like to help people to use it to strengthen their attachment to where they live. To do this, we have launched an initiative called 15-Minute Heritage to encourage people to step outside and discover the heritage on their doorstep. Not everyone has a castle, a scheduled monument or a listed building nearby, but everywhere has heritage that is local and personal. Every single neighbourhood has been made and shaped by the people who have lived and worked there and every place takes on meaning from the ways in which people have experienced it and related to it. As the initiative unfolds, we hope to offer many more routes to encountering heritage in different forms and in unexpected places. To start with, we want to make it easier for people to find out about the listed buildings, scheduled monuments and historic parks and gardens on their doorstep. Therefore, we will be adding a new search facility to Cof Cymru, our online database of historic assets in Wales — bit.ly/CofCymru. Users will be able to identify all designated assets within a set radius of any given address. We also want to explore and share alternative ways of looking at heritage in very different places. To do this, we are using StoryMap, a proprietary web-based platform, which uses maps combined with narrative text, images and other media to create digital stories of place. We hope that these stories will inspire people to look with new eyes at what is around them. 8

FEATURE: 15-MINUTE HERITAGE

Our first StoryMap is about Bedwas, Caerphilly. Bedwas is not particularly noted for its heritage, but a close look at its buildings reveals a fascinating story. Its listed buildings provide snapshots of its origins as a medieval settlement through to its growth as a mining community in the twentieth century. However, it was through its unlisted buildings that we discovered the kind of place that Bedwas became: prosperity and ambition are reflected in the quality of its commercial and public buildings; a distinctive architectural identity was created out of small variations in the design, materials and detail of housing built around 1900; and there are excellent examples of the kinds of public housing built in the aftermath of both World Wars. We have also created a StoryMap for Pembroke Dock. Here, we look through the lens of Unloved Heritage?, a project funded by the National Lottery Heritage Fund to encourage young people to get involved with heritage. The project focused on the kinds of features which often don’t get much attention — not castles and ancient sites but the more recent heritage which is part of the make-up of the ordinary places in which most of us live. Pembroke Dock’s StoryMap invites us to look at the town’s remarkable history through the eyes of the young people who call it home. In future, we will also be using StoryMap to explore the heritage of rural neighbourhoods, where landscape features and monuments, milk-churn stands and mileposts tell their own stories. We’ll also be looking closely at the 15-minute heritage of some of our own sites — for example, what’s on the doorstep of a castle or a bishop’s palace? Other ways in which we hope to encourage participation in the initiative includes a new package for schools and home learning called 15-Minute Heritage: History Detective Mission. This invites children to investigate the history on their doorstep and to come up with ways of sharing their findings within their local community. StoryMap, a digital platform, is used to explore the local heritage of Bedwas, Caerphilly, and uses a combination of narrative text, images and maps to shed light on the history of the town. Pictured is the Big Shop, Hillside Terrace (top), the White Hart Inn (middle) and the Cornish Houses (bottom).

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Working in partnership with Cadw, the National Lottery Heritage Fund has also launched a 15-Minute Heritage grant scheme as a contribution to recovery from COVID-19. Its aim is to enable third-sector organisations, community groups and museums to lead small-scale projects that will help to connect communities with their local heritage through place. Places have their own history, but they also accumulate significance to different groups and generations in different ways. We want the projects supported through the scheme to find ways of sharing these diverse meanings and interpretations. The value of local heritage is recognised right across our sector and, in the months ahead, Cadw will be working closely with our partners in pursuit of a common ambition to put it firmly on the map. Above: Participants in the Unloved Heritage? project spent a day learning about photography and photographic development techniques last summer. They captured creative images of historic buildings in Pembroke Dock, including the Pembroke Dock Heritage Centre — formerly the Dockyard Chapel — built in 1830. Right: A late eighteenth-century milestone at Pont Maentwrog, Gwynedd, is an example of the heritage to be found in rural neighbourhoods. © Crown Copyright: RCAHMW

There are heritage stories on all our thresholds. We would like to invite you to think about what makes up your 15-minute heritage. Tell us about one thing that captures your sense of heritage in your neighbourhood and we will endeavour to publish your contributions in future issues of Heritage in Wales — email your heritage story, together with a photo if you have one, to cadwmarketing@gov.wales 10

FEATURE: SAINTS OR SINNERS?

SAINTS OR SINNERS?

In July 2020, the First Minister commissioned an audit of public monuments, street and building names associated with the slave trade and the British Empire. Gaynor Legall, the chair of the Task and Finish Group, and researcher Peter Wakelin, talk about the early findings. Left: A family at the broken plinth of the toppled statue of Edward Colston in Bristol. © Adrian Sherratt / Alamy Stock Photo. Below: Peter Wakelin and Gaynor Legall.

When demonstrators threw the statue of slave-trader Edward Colston into Bristol harbour it showed that monuments have powerful meanings. For Bristolian families with ancestors who were enslaved in Africa and trafficked to the West Indies, Colston’s statue felt like an insult. Years of discussion about putting a plaque under it to explain Colston’s past had come to nothing and frustration finally boiled over. Meanwhile, in America, Black Lives Matter protesters and local governments are felling statutes of pro-slavery Confederate leaders: monuments put up long after the Civil War as propaganda for the ‘Jim Crow laws’ that enforced racial segregation and made African Americans second-class citizens. The systematic enslavement of a civilian population is now recognised internationally as a crime against humanity. Slavery may be age-old but the Atlantic slave trade of the sixteenth to nineteenth centuries was unique for its vast scale and its basis in race. Its consequences are still apparent in destabilisation and impoverishment in Africa and world-wide racism and inequality.

Wales did not stand apart from this abuse. Welsh mariners and investors took part in the slave trade and Welsh people invested in slave-worked plantations. Welsh trades and industries made cloth, copper and iron for markets that were dependent on slavery in Africa and the Caribbean and Welsh consumers bought tobacco, coffee and sugar grown by enslaved people. 11

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The Picton monument at Carmarthen was built following a public subscription after Picton’s death at Waterloo. John Nash’s original column decayed and was replaced by this 25-metre (82-foot) obelisk in 1847. © Crown Copyright: RCAHMW

These were among the reasons why the First Minister commissioned an audit of statues, plaques, street names and building names that put some who were responsible for slavery and exploitation literally or metaphorically ‘on a pedestal’. It may have been hard to avoid participating in the economies created by slavery and colonialism, but some people were directly responsible for abuses. Examining their commemoration is an important step on a journey of truth and reconciliation. Statues tend to fade into the background of our daily lives and most of us barely notice the names of streets or public buildings, let alone think about who might have been commemorated by them. If we consider them at all, we see people responsible for brutalising men, women and children in earlier centuries as figures from a distant past. No case in Wales is more extreme than that of Lieutenant General Sir Thomas Picton who, as military governor of Trinidad, drew up a code to control the enslaved population through torture and exemplary executions, including dismembering people or burning them alive. So extreme was his regime that 36 charges were laid against him of torture, false imprisonment and execution without trial. He was convicted on a specimen charge of permitting the torture of a 14-year-old girl — a case so notorious that the publicity helped to defeat the slave trade. However, Picton’s conviction was overturned on a technicality and he went on to lead military forces in the Peninsular War and die a heroic death as the most senior officer killed at Waterloo. Picton was memorialised enthusiastically in his homeland. The audit has found four monuments, five buildings and some 29 streets commemorating him. Recently, Cardiff Council voted to remove him from City Hall’s set of 11 statues of ‘Welsh heroes’ selected after a public poll in 1913. His statue is currently concealed behind screens while the impact on the grade I listed building is considered. The audit has sought to examine potential links to slavery among all the known public statues, plaques and other monuments in Wales. It has also searched Ordnance Survey data on building and street names for some 200 persons of interest. Given that streets are usually identified by just a surname, further examination was required using clues from surrounding streets and documentary sources to determine whether particular individuals were commemorated. The results so far list around 11 commemorations of slave traders, 55 commemorations of plantation owners and — the

FEATURE: SAINTS OR SINNERS?

The Swansea tithe map from the beginning of Victoria’s reign shows several streets named after people in the audit. Clarence Terrace at the bottom references the future William IV, who opposed abolition of the slave trade in the Lords. It leads into Wellington Street. Above that are two streets (since lost under the Quadrant Centre) named for Horatio Nelson, who expressed pro-slavery views in private. At the top is Picton Place (now Kingsway). Map supplied by National Library of Wales.

A portrait in Carmarthen Guildhall of Thomas Picton. It was painted posthumously around 1815–20 by Martin Archer Shee, who had painted Picton from life a few years earlier. © Mike Walters / Alamy Stock Photo

The origin of some street names is uncertain. Jim Crow Square in Cwmbran, Torfaen, takes its name from nearby Jim Crow’s Cottage. But was the cottage called after the early nineteenth-century black-face act that became a racial insult or, as local hearsay states, a friend of the owner? © Peter Wakelin13

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This statue of Robert Owen in Newtown, Powys, by Gilbert Bayes shows a child sheltering by Owen’s feet, reflecting his work to outlaw child labour. It was put up by the Co-operative Union in 1956. A proposal for a statue soon after Owen’s death in 1858 was rejected owing to his atheism. © Powys Photo / Alamy Stock Photo

A Celtic cross of white granite put up in 1910 commemorates the intellectually brilliant Morris brothers of Anglesey: Lewis, Richard, William and John. John was a mariner who served on an East India Company ship transporting enslaved people from Madagascar; Lewis Morris’s son, Pryse, died on a slaving voyage to Barbados. © Tony Bennett/Art UK

FEATURE: SAINTS OR SINNERS?

largest number of all — 118 commemorations of a handful of influential people accused of opposing abolition. The audit has also found 19 commemorations of three Victorians accused of crimes in Africa. Other historical figures queried by campaigners (with 73 known commemorations) include people as diverse as Christopher Columbus, Elihu Yale and Mahatma Gandhi. Although the current project is not looking at campaigners against slavery, that is an important subject too. William Williams (Pantycelyn), who preached against the slave trade in the eighteenth century, is commemorated by Pantycelyn hall of residence at Aberystwyth and a statue of Henry Richard MP, secretary of the Peace Society, stands in Tregaron. Less widely known is the remarkable Jessie Donaldson who left Swansea for the United States to provide a safe house for people escaping slavery on southern plantations. Statues tend to make heroes of people, but it may not be helpful to think in terms of heroes and villains, saints and sinners. Many of those examined had complex histories that need careful consideration and some may, in due course, be viewed more sympathetically than others. For example, Frances Batty Shand, who founded Cardiff Institute for the Blind and was remembered in the naming of its building (now a student residence), was both a beneficiary of a plantation and a Black woman from Jamaica. Some people both defended West Indian interests and supported emancipation, including the widely commemorated prime ministers Wellington and Gladstone. A challenging case is that of Robert Owen, justly remembered for his pioneering ideas about working

conditions and co-operatives. Owen’s factories were supplied with cotton from slave-worked plantations. While he sought improved conditions for British workers, he suggested that enslaved people would be better off without emancipation. He shows that even progressive thinkers can be blinkered by the norms of their era. He has ten commemorations in Wales. This contrasts with just seven commemorations of people of Black heritage, including plaques to Paul Robeson and a Mandela Avenue in Bridgend. A statue of the Cardiff teacher and campaigner Betty Campbell is due to be erected next year. Yet people identifiably of Black heritage have lived in Wales for 2,000 years and made distinguished contributions in politics, education, sport, the arts, health and other spheres. Some of these people might prompt future commemoration, such as Eddie Parris, who in 1931 became the first Black football player capped for Wales; the diplomat Abdulrahim Abby Farah from Barry who set up a hospital for landmine victims in Somalia; or the anti-slavery orator Frederick Douglass, who escaped slavery in America and spoke to a packed Wrexham Town Hall in 1846. What will Wales do with this emerging information? There may be many ways to respond — to follow the examples set by Liverpool, which has produced literature that explains why its city-centre streets are named after slave traders, or America, where offensive statues are coming down, or Bristol, where the music venue Colston Hall has changed its name. Commemorations are just one part of a long history of changing attitudes but a rich territory in which to remember, challenge and evolve.

Above: Frederick Douglass was born into slavery in Maryland. After escaping in 1838 he became a famous orator and campaigner. He toured the British Isles in the 1840s to huge audiences: plaques mark appearances in London, Edinburgh, Cork and Waterford but not in Wales.When he spoke at Wrexham Town Hall in 1846 it was ‘densely packed until near midnight’. © Major Acquisitions Centennial Endowment

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In this aerial view of Chepstow Castle, Monmouthshire, you can appreciate just some of William’s work: the twin-towered gatehouse in the foreground and the masonry curtain wall flanked by three rounded towers that protected the middle bailey and the entrance to the Great Tower.

FEATURE: WILLIAM MARSHAL

William Marshal From landless knight to lord of Chepstow Castle

Beautifully preserved Chepstow Castle stretches out along a limestone cliff above the river Wye like a history lesson in stone. Historian Bill Zajac explains how William Marshal, skilled in the latest military techniques, transformed the castle into a formidable, but suitably comfortable, fortress at the forefront of castle design at the end of the twelfth century. At the beginning of July 1189, Isabel de Clare — the ‘damsel of Striguil’ — was not yet 20 years old and sole heir to the extensive estates of her father, Richard de Clare, in England, Wales, Ireland and Normandy. As a royal ward, her marriage was decided by King Henry II who had promised her to his loyal captain, William Marshal. The king died on 6 July before he could fulfil his pledge, but his successor, Richard I, eager to secure the Marshal’s continuing loyalty, honoured his father’s wishes. Before that month was out, Isabel was no longer a damsel, but a married woman. William hastened to England on the new king’s business, but lost no time in making Isabel his wife — a union that brought him rich lands and claims to more. By right of his wife, William Marshal became a great magnate. In fact, at Richard’s coronation in September 1189, it was William who carried the royal sceptre before the king. In 1189, William was in his early forties. He had begun his career as a landless knight but had gained fame and no little wealth as a star on the tournament circuit. He had served the Plantagenets in peace and war. On his death bed in 1183, Henry II’s eldest son, Henry the Young King, had This tomb effigy in the Temple Church, City of London, is thought to represent William Marshal.

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even entrusted his crusader’s cross to the Marshal; William faithfully carried it to Jerusalem and remained there from 1184 to 1186. His marriage to Isabel would give the Marshal claims to his late father-in-law’s Irish conquests in Leinster and the earldom of Pembroke. His more immediate gains took the form of estates in England and Normandy and the lordship of Striguil — now known as Chepstow — in south-east Wales. That lordship controlled most of the lowlands along the Severn estuary between the Usk and the Wye and the Wentwood forest that overlooked them. Chepstow Castle, established in 1067 by William fitz Osbern, stood as the head of the lordship.When William Marshal first acquired the castle, it had probably changed little since the end of the eleventh century. The Norman Great Tower, constructed between 1075 and 1115, remained at the heart of the fortress. Surviving sections of Norman walling suggest that the upper bailey had masonry curtain walls, but other parts of the castle’s defences might still have been of earth and timber. During his campaigns and travels in Europe and the Holy Land, the Marshal had undoubtedly become familiar with the latest developments in castle design and he quickly applied his experience to bring Chepstow Castle up to date. There is archaeological evidence of his work. Dendrochronological (tree-ring) dating of the magnificent timber doors that hung in the main gatehouse until 1962 (now displayed in the hall porch in the lower bailey) revealed that they were constructed no later than the 1190s. This not only makes them the oldest castle doors in Europe, but also reveals that the gatehouse in which they were hung was constructed by William Marshal. William built the gatehouse to a cutting-edge design: two round towers, well-equipped with arrow loops, command and defend the gate passage that runs between them. It marks an important transition that was beginning to take place at the end of the twelfth century: square or rectangular gatehouse towers were increasingly supplanted by round or D-shaped alternatives, which eliminated blind angles for the defenders and presented glancing surfaces to attackers. The gatehouse also incorporated accommodation on the upper floors, but later alterations make it difficult to reconstruct the original arrangements. The Marshal’s gatehouse at Chepstow was the precursor of the great twin-towered gatehouses at later thirteenth18

A ground plan of Chepstow Castle; the sections in light blue represent the surviving works of William Marshal.

Chepstow’s twin-towered gatehouse built by William Marshal in the 1190s to a revolutionary design.

FEATURE: WILLIAM MARSHAL

Marshal’s Tower: An exterior view, an interior view from ground level and a detail of the decorative red ashlar pattern painted on the chamber walls.

century castles, like Caerphilly and Harlech. But William’s works were not limited to the gatehouse. In fact, he seems to have remodelled almost the entire defensive circuit of the castle, although much of his work in the lower bailey has been replaced by later work. He strengthened the defences of the middle bailey with a masonry curtain wall, reinforced with three towers. A powerful D-shaped tower, well-supplied with arrow loops, projected into the lower bailey and flanked the gateway that gave access to the middle bailey. Overlooking the Dell to the south of the castle, the Marshal built a drum-shaped tower at the junction between the lower and middle baileys and added a D-shaped tower midway along the middle bailey curtain wall. His military experience is reflected in the arrow loops provided in these towers, enabling archers not only to cover the surrounding ground, but also to shoot along the walls to either side. In the upper bailey, at the farthest end from the gatehouse, William Marshal’s work reveals that his concerns were not exclusively warlike. In the early thirteenth century, as well as rebuilding the bailey’s curtain walls, he raised a major tower at its corner overlooking the gate that gave access to the castle from the west. However, unlike his other towers at Chepstow, this one was rectangular rather than rounded. While rounded towers offered definite military advantages, they were not as well suited to domestic accommodation. Here — in the most private corner of the castle — the Marshal incorporated a well-appointed and comfortable set of apartments into the circuit of the

defences. It is easy to miss what is now called Marshal’s Tower because it is badly ruined but, when you next visit Chepstow, take the time to stop and appreciate it. It was a two-storey structure, with battlements above. On the first floor was what must have been a fine room lit not by arrow loops but windows, several of which had window seats. The walls were painted with a red ashlar pattern, traces of which survive in the embrasure of a round-headed window in the southern wall. There was probably a fireplace and perhaps another window in the now missing east wall. Evidence for a fireplace and a drain on the ground floor points to its function as a kitchen that served the apartment above. Given their high quality and their isolation at the far end of the castle, these rooms must have provided a retreat for William and his countess, Isabel. Although more than 20 years divided them, the sources suggest that their marriage, which produced ten children, was based on real affection. It may be fanciful, but it is easy to imagine William and Isabel retiring here together to escape the bustle of their household in the castle below. Before his death in 1219, William Marshal would be responsible for building works at other castles in Wales — including Pembroke, Usk and Caerleon — and in Ireland. Many of these buildings reflected his knowledge of the latest techniques of European fortification gained during his long years in the service of the Plantagenets. However, it was at Chepstow that William Marshal first displayed his prowess as an innovative castle builder. 19

HERITAGE IN WALES ISSUE 70 71

T h e l a t e st listin g s DISPELLING THE MISCONCEPTIONS 20

AA Telephone Box 161, on the A40 between Crickhowell and Tretower, is one of the youngest and more unusual monuments to be listed.

FEATURE: THE LATEST LISTINGS

Despite the challenges that coronavirus has brought to the world in 2020, Wales’s collection of remarkable listed buildings, memorials and monuments has continued to grow. Listed Building Officer Chris Stiefvater-Thomas explores the variety of buildings recently listed by Cadw… There is a long-standing misconception that the listing process ‘freezes’ a building in time and history. In truth, it is all about managing the building to maintain the special value it holds for the wider community because of its history, architecture and age. Another misconception is that listed buildings are always very old. In fact, many of our most recent listings are from the twentieth century; they are buildings that represent their age, a specific architectural style perhaps, or important trends, events, developments and social changes. Capel Celyn in Gwynedd, the memorial chapel for a community drowned by a reservoir, marks one of the most controversial political events of the last century, while the Theatr Clwyd building at Mold, Flintshire — built in the 1970s — is an important example of the civic architecture of the time.

Capel Celyn — a memorial chapel in Gwynedd.

As time passes, it becomes easier to appreciate the significance of buildings and place them in context; so, a century after the end of the First World War, this year’s listings include memorials to the fallen, such as Hay & Cusop War Memorial in Powys. One building that defies the misconception that listed buildings are old is AA Telephone Box 161, on the A40 between Crickhowell and Tretower in the Brecon Beacons National Park. It was brought to our attention by a member of the public and listed in May 2020. This 60-year-old telephone box is one of only three surviving in their original locations in Wales. Built by disabled war veterans at Enham Industries in Hampshire, England, they are all now protected by Cadw as grade II listed buildings. Once a common sight at the roadside, the numbered boxes contained useful items such as fire extinguishers and maps, as well as a telephone to summon help in the event of a breakdown. However, they were only accessible by a master key given to members of the Automobile Association, which saw a huge uptake in memberships from the beginning of the 1950s.This surge was partly due to the end of petrol rationing, but also to the increase in car ownership among Welsh factory workers, steel makers and coal miners — marking a mobility revolution in post-war Wales. The Old Post Office in the centre of Talgarth, Powys, was recommended for listing by the local community.The building in which it is located was probably constructed around 1880 and originally housed three shops with domestic accommodation above.The other properties in the block have been altered, but this polychrome brick corner unit has

Theatr Clwyd, Flintshire. © Theatr Clwyd

HERITAGE IN WALES ISSUE 71

scarcely changed since it was built. Inside it retains original shelves, drawers and cupboards used during its heyday. A post office service was first established in Talgarth in 1858 and The Old Post Office building, constructed a few decades later, was built for this purpose — no doubt reflecting a growing demand for postal services. In June 2020 it was listed grade II as a well-preserved example of a commercial building in nineteenth-century Wales. It is currently in the care of the community who, last summer, transformed it into a mini museum. Another community group — Friends of Wrexham Cemetery — recently discovered a long-forgotten wartime mortuary in the grounds of Wrexham cemetery. Built in 1939 at the beginning of the Second World War as an overflow mortuary to the former War Memorial Hospital, the inside remains completely untouched, featuring a mortuary slab, sink and even a transfer casket all still in their original condition. The bodies of many Allied and German plane-crash victims passed through the mortuary, as well as civilians killed by bombs in and around 1940. The mortuary has now been listed by Cadw and the community group hopes to reopen it as a museum in memory of those who passed through it. War memorials are an expression of loss shared by entire communities, with the most familiar being those erected to commemorate the fallen from individual towns and villages. There are also, across Wales, memorials marking the grievous losses suffered by close communities in and around workplaces, schools, places of worship and clubs. One such example is Llangefni County School Memorial on Anglesey, listed in July 2020. Arguably one of Wales’s most beautiful memorials, it remembers past pupils who lost their lives during the First World War. The memorial gates at Rodney Parade, the sports ground of Newport Rugby Club, were similarly erected to honour club members who served and were killed in the First World War. The gates are designed in an austere neo-classical style, providing a dignified memorial and an elegant formal entrance to the ground. They serve as a reminder not only of the losses of the Great War — 86 names are listed on the two brass plaques mounted on the gate piers — but also of the history behind a wellknown sports club. They were listed grade II in August 2020 for their special architectural and historic interest. 22

The Old Post Office, Powys.

A wartime mortuary in Wrexham Cemetery.

FEATURE: THE LATEST LISTINGS

Llangefni County School Memorial, Anglesey.

Although many buildings across Wales have already been listed by Cadw, we are keen to protect more for the benefit of future generations. So, if you would like to recommend a building to be considered for listing, from any period, the process is simple. All we need are details of what building you have in mind, where it is located and some photos of the building itself. For further information, please refer to our guidance document, Understanding Listing in Wales, available on the Cadw website: bit.ly/UnderstandingListings.

Additional buildings listed or upgraded since we last heard from Chris in issue 68: » » » » » » »

St David’s Church, Pembrokeshire The Friends Meeting House, Conwy Y Dolydd Llanfyllin Workhouse, Powys Court Road Industrial Estate Sign, Torfaen Pearl Assurance House, Torfaen Milepost north of Five Locks, Torfaen Milepost east of Lower Wyndham Terrace, Caerphilly

Visit Cof Cymru, Cadw’s free interactive map, to discover more of Wales’s listed buildings — bit.ly/CofCymru

Rodney Parade memorial gates, Newport.

Y Dolydd Llanfyllin Workhouse, Powys. © Iscope UAV Services

History Hunters

History Hunters will be appearing in every issue of Heritage in Wales. We’ll help you enjoy Welsh history! You can cut out and keep the pages if you like!

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our quest to rediscover history!

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Christmas crafts! Victorian Christmas trees weren’t decorated with fairy lights and tinsel. Back then, people used candles, ribbons and orange pomanders. Why not have a go at making your own traditional Christmas tree decoration? need: You will nge One ora Cloves

ibbon green r Red or k on stic Cinnam ce ange sli Dried or s Scissor ptional) stick (o Cocktail

Step 4

Make another hole at the top of the orange slice, thread the ribbon through and hang it from your orange.

Step 5

Hang your pomander from a Christmas tree, door or fireplace and enjoy the festive fragrance.

Step 1

Criss-cross the ribbon around your orange and tie a knot, leaving enough ribbon to make a loop ready to hang.

Step 2

Use a cocktail stick or pencil to make holes in your orange, then push in the cloves until your orange is covered or your chosen pattern is complete.

Step 3

Make two holes in the centre of the dried orange slice, side by side. Thread some ribbon through the holes and around the cinnamon stick. Tie a bow to secure the cinnamon stick to the orange slice.

If you prefer, you could just use orange slices and cinnamon sticks to make decorations — one idea is to string the orange slices together into a garland.

Festive food

Subtleties were special sugar sculptures used as table decorations in medieval times. They came in all sorts of shapes and sizes — castles or ships or scenes from fables (stories) — and were often served at the start of a banquet to let guests know that dinner was on its way! Follow the instructions below to make your own edible models. If you’d rather, shop-bought fondant icing will work just as well. Let your imagination run wild! You could even make a model of one of your favourite Cadw castles!

Ingredients 2.5ml gum tragacanth 5ml strained lemon juice 10ml rose water (available from most supermarkets) 350–450g icing sugar Half an egg white Gum tragacanth is a natural powdered product that makes fondant stiffer and easier to make into shapes. You can get it from specialist cake decorating shops, or online.

1. In a bowl, soak the gum tragacanth overnight in the lemon juice and rose water. 2. Stir in the lightly beaten egg white, then work the sifted icing sugar into the mixture a little at a time until it forms a paste. 3. Turn the mixture onto a work surface with a sprinkling of icing sugar and knead until completely smooth. 4. Now you are ready to model and shape your sugar paste into anything you want.

Did you know? Father C originall hristmas was y know n Nichola s, born as Saint in AD 2 in mod 70 er That m n-day Turkey. akes him years o 1,750 ld!

on patr , e h t rs s He i of sailo , t sain rchants me rs and e arch dren. chil

Saint Nicholas is famous for dropping three bags of gold coins down a chimney for the daughters of a poor man.

ather rld F ifferent o w e d n by nd th ada, Arou s is know ël in Can No więty stma Chri s — Père in Italy, Ś gle in in name o Natale , Kris Kr e, b d b n urs la Ba n Po nd, of co s. i j a ł Miko merica a in Wale A Corn Siôn

We see Father Christmas to day wearing red cl othes but, in ti m es past, he was se en wearing w hite, brown, blue an d particularly green — often with a garland of gr een leaves around his head.

In Holland, Saint Nich olas was known as Sinterk laas, but when Dutch peop le emigrated to America , he became Santa Claus.

The chocolate bar wasn’t invented until 1847 and in the past, people ate dried or cooked fruit, spices and nuts for something sweet. Try making this simple recipe for Elizabethan Naughty Cake. If you’re on the ‘nice’ list, you could even leave a bit for Father Christmas when he visits! Ingredients 85g butter 3 tbs honey 115g mixed dried fruit 55g glacé cherries 85g mixed nuts, roughly chopped 115g crumbled biscuits 1 tsp mixed spice

1. Heat the butter and

honey in a pan. 2. Simmer for 2 minutes, stirring constantly. 3. Leave to cool. 4. Mix the remaining dry ingredients with the honey and butter. 5. Spoon into a 7-inch dish. 6. Leave to set in a cool place.

FEATURE: HARLECH CASTLE

Meet the twenty-first‑century faces behind

Harlech Castle

Harlech Castle, Gwynedd, is regarded as one of the most beautiful and perfect medieval fortresses in Europe.

HERITAGE IN WALES ISSUE 71

Skilfully designed and constructed atop a rocky outcrop by architectural genius Master James of St George for King Edward I, Harlech Castle was built from ground to battlements in just seven years. The UNESCO World Heritage Site is internationally recognised as an outstanding example of medieval military architecture in Europe — built to protect against the most ruthless of attacks. Even when the castle was completely besieged by the rebellion of Madog ap Llywelyn, the mighty fortress and its trapped defenders remained strong throughout — all thanks to the site’s ‘Way from the Sea’, allowing the besieged inhabitants to be fed and watered by ship during the toughest of times. While the castle is no longer home to the knights and warriors of Wales’s past, it is still a hive of human activity, playing host to visitors who come to explore its epic history. We caught up with castle custodian and tour guide, Sian Roberts and castle café manager, Freya Bentham to find out more… 30

A couple enjoying the stunning scenery in the seating area outside Harlech Castle's café.

Sian Roberts, Custodian.

Harlech Castle gatehouse.

Freya Bentham, Café Manager.

FEATURE: HARLECH CASTLE

Sian Roberts, Custodian and expert Tour Guide at Harlech Castle

Freya Bentham, Harlech Castle Café Manager

What is your favourite thing about your job as a custodian and tour guide? Without a doubt, getting to share our Welsh history with visitors from all over the world. This is something I really missed when the castle was closed during lockdown.

What is your favourite thing about working at the café? It would have to be the fabulous team I work with, the delicious freshly home-made cakes and, of course, the view. I don’t think there are many cafés where you can sip your cappuccino right next to a thirteenth-century castle with an incredible view of Snowdon.

What is your favourite fact about Harlech Castle? There are so many interesting facts to choose from, but one would be that self-proclaimed Welsh prince Owain Glyndŵr held his royal court at the castle between 1404 and 1408. Who is your favourite character from Harlech Castle’s past? James of St George — Master of the King’s Works and constable at Harlech Castle from 1290. I have so many questions I wish I could ask him about the building, including the gatehouse with its magnificent architecture. Do you provide tours of Harlech Castle? We run site tours at Harlech Castle on request. They last up to one hour and cover a broad history of the fortress, but can be tailored according to the visitors’ interests. We offer child-friendly tours of the castle too and love to encourage children to engage and learn all about the site they are visiting. If you would like a tour of the castle, telephone or email the site in advance of booking your entry ticket to arrange a suitable date and time — tel. 01766 780552 / email HarlechCastle@gov.wales. What will you take away from the coronavirus pandemic — has it taught you anything? I feel very lucky to live in such a lovely part of the world here in Harlech and have realised just how important the outdoor environment is for both physical and mental well‑being. For anyone planning a visit to the castle, I would definitely recommend some local walks in the area.

What did you miss most about working at the café when it was closed during lockdown? My colleagues. I love our morning chats before we open as we’re setting up for the day. And I really missed our regulars too. Some of our customers usually pop by several times a week so it was sad not seeing them. What procedures have you put in place at the café to ensure it is a safe environment for visitors? There isn’t anything that we haven’t put in place — from readily available hand sanitiser and regular deep cleans to table service and rearrangement of the café furniture to allow for effective social distancing. Cadw’s health and safety team check in with us regularly to ensure we are adhering to the latest Welsh Government guidelines. Do you support any local businesses at the café or sell any Welsh produce? We try and use local suppliers and Welsh produce wherever possible. All of our meat is from the award-winning butcher, T. J. Roberts in Bala and our cheese is from Caws Cymru. We also get our coffee, which is roasted in Snowdonia, from Poblado Coffee and our loose-leaf tea from Morgan’s Brew in mid-Wales, to name a few. What would you say is your sell-out lunch dish? Definitely the Welsh rarebit — it’s popular with customers of all ages and highly recommended! It’s made with three different Welsh cheeses and local ale from the Purple Moose Brewery in Porthmadog. 31

HERITAGE IN WALES ISSUE 71

What is your favourite Cadw site and why? (other than Harlech Castle, of course!) I love exploring Beaumaris Castle and the local town, but Castell Coch is on my list for next year!

Above: Health and safety precautions have been put in place at the café to ensure the safety and well‑being of our customers. Below: A selection of the delicious home-made cakes available from the café.

What will you take away from the coronavirus pandemic — has it taught you anything? Yes. It’s taught me to relax more and not take anything for granted. It’s also made me appreciate what a beautiful world we live in even more than I did before. Harlech Castle’s café is open every day 10am–5pm (March–Oct) and 10am–4pm (Nov–Feb) for breakfast and lunch. Harlech Castle, café and apartments are open and welcome visitors from non-lockdown areas at the time of print. Please check the Cadw website for the most up-todate information before you book a visit — gov.wales/cadw

10% off a stay at Harlech Apartments for Cadw members Why not extend a visit to this thirteenth-century fortress into a luxurious break — with a safe, overnight stay at one of five, beautifully furnished self-catering apartments? Just a stone’s throw away from Harlech Castle, the premium apartments boast spectacular views across Cardigan Bay and the Irish sea to the mountains beyond, making them a winning location for you to extend your trip to the area or make your visit a special occasion. The apartments are furnished differently so that each living-space has its own unique personality, but you can expect sumptuous soft furnishings and high-spec openplan living areas; each apartment sleeps up to two people and includes a dedicated car-parking space on-site — plus one of the apartments is fully wheelchair accessible and houses a wet room. For further information, visit menaiholidays.co.uk or tel. 01248 430258.

The lounge and bedroom of luxury first-floor apartment, Bendigeidfran.

FEATURE: CADW: THE STORY OF A NATIONAL COLLECTION

A photograph of an Edwardian picnic at Pentre Ifan Burial Chamber, Pembrokeshire.You can see the protective cast-iron railings installed by the Office of Works.

Cadw A 1930s poster encouraging visitors to travel by train to Tintern Abbey, Monmouthshire. © mooziic / Alamy Stock Photo

the story of a national collection 33

HERITAGE IN WALES ISSUE 71

Dr Jon Berry, Senior Inspector of Ancient Monuments and Archaeology, looks back on the history of Cadw, from its origins as the Office of Works to the present day. He traces the legislation, personalities and influences that shaped a Welsh heritage collection to be proud of. Amongst Wales’s many cherished national collections — from National Library to National Museum — ours showcases the best examples of different monument types from different periods. This reflects a deliberate effort by our predecessors to place our most important monuments in state care (guardianship) and preserve them for future generations to enjoy. We now have a total of 130 sites in our portfolio, ranging from prehistoric to industrial — representing our inheritance and the sum of Cadw’s corporate history. A new concept of state ‘guardianship’ was introduced by the Ancient Monuments Act of 1882. The Office of Works was bound to maintain and protect what was considered to be the best preserved and most typical examples of prehistoric monuments — 68 sites in Britain and Ireland were entitled to protection, including three in Wales: Plas Newydd tumulus and dolmen, Anglesey; Arthur’s Quoit (Arthur’s Stone), Gower and Pentre Ifan cromlech, Pembrokeshire. While the act did not include Roman or medieval remains it marked the beginning of the National Heritage Collection in Wales. The act introduced the post of Inspector of Ancient Monuments to oversee and provide advice on the protection of monuments, to meet owners and encourage them (and their successors) to voluntarily place a monument into guardianship. Guardianship meant that the state took on the responsibility for the future maintenance of the monument but public access to the monument (albeit sometimes on specific terms) was secured. Pentre Ifan was the first monument in Wales to be placed into guardianship, on 25 June 1884. During the late 1880s, then Inspector, Lieutenant-General Pitt-Rivers, enlisted the help of local archaeological societies to draw up lists of monuments and persuade local landowners to place them in state care. As a result, the sculptured stones and crosses at Margam, Neath Port Talbot, were brought into guardianship on 9 May 1891.

The collection of almost 30 inscribed stones and crosses at Margam Stones Museum, Neath Port Talbot, was brought into state guardianship in 1891.

Between 1900 and 1931, a series of pieces of legislation refined and broadened the definitions of what should be protected. The Ancient Monuments Protection Act of 1900 widened protection to non-prehistoric monuments of historic or architectural interest, including medieval churches, abbeys, castles, town walls and Roman sites. An update in 1910 allowed the government to receive monuments as gifts and the Ancient Monuments Consolidation and Amendment Act 1913 aimed to tackle damage to ancient monuments. It reduced an owner’s property rights over ancient monuments and expanded the definitions to ‘any monument or part or remains of a monument’ which were of ‘historic, architectural, traditional, artistic or archaeological interest’.

Page 35 from left to right: Bryn Celli Ddu Burial Chamber,Anglesey; Carew Cross, Pembrokeshire; Strata Florida Abbey, Ceredigion; Caerleon Amphitheatre, Newport; Neath Abbey, Neath Port Talbot; Swansea Castle, Swansea; Plas Mawr, Conwy; and Heritage Cottage, Rhondda Cynon Taf.

FEATURE: CADW: THE STORY OF A NATIONAL COLLECTION

HERITAGE IN WALES ISSUE 71

A 1931 act broadened the definition further to include buildings, structures and works above or below ground and caves and excavations. Partly as a result of these acts, new acquisitions in Wales increased substantially.There were 17 in the 1910s, including Holyhead Mountain Hut Group, Anglesey (1911); 16 in the 1920s, including Bryn Celli Ddu Burial Chamber, Anglesey (1923), Carew Cross, Pembrokeshire (1924) and Beaumaris Castle, Anglesey (1925); and 20 in the 1930s, including Strata Florida Abbey, Ceredigion (1931) and Eliseg’s Pillar, Denbighshire (1937). Caerleon Amphitheatre, Newport was the first Roman monument to come under state guardianship in Wales in 1927. In the meantime, Wilfrid James Hemp was appointed the first dedicated Inspector of Ancient Monuments for Wales in 1913. He was responsible for the important repair work on castles in north Wales — Beaumaris, Caernarfon, Harlech, Denbigh and Ewloe — and he also excavated and restored the Neolithic chambered tombs at Capel Garmon, Conwy, and Bryn Celli Ddu and Bryn yr Hen Bobl, Anglesey. During the First World War, guardianship sites remained open and were free to visit for those in uniform but, with some exceptions, offers of guardianship were generally deferred. From 1919, guardianship sites were used in the King’s National Roll Scheme, an employment programme for disabled ex-servicemen. The first schedule of ancient monuments was published in 1921. The Great Depression in the 1930s prompted several owners to pass monuments into state care. The government adopted a policy of becoming the owner of monuments as a ‘last resort’. By 1935 tourism was big business and posters encouraged visitors to travel by train to guardianship monuments. The monuments charged an entrance fee of 6d. (2.5p) and 3d. (1.2p) and the revenue went towards their maintenance and conservation. During the Second World War, the Office of Works was renamed the Ministry of Works and Buildings. With a much reduced staff, owing to the war effort, excavations on guardianship sites halted and maintenance was reduced to a bare minimum. Caernarfon Castle was requisitioned and Harlech Castle occupied by the Home Guard. During the late 1940s, 20 new monuments in Wales were added to the National Collection including Neath Abbey, Neath Port Talbot and Ewenny Priory, Vale of Glamorgan (both 1949). In 1949, the Ministry of Works drew up a 36

target list of desirable guardianship site types — including Norman keeps, medieval castles, pre-Norman churches and medieval monasteries — and in the 1950s sought actively to obtain guardianship or purchase first-class examples of these monuments. Eighteen new acquisitions included some of Cadw’s best-loved sites, like Caerphilly Castle and Castell Coch, Cardiff (both 1950). Such a rapid expansion had significant consequences: the Ministry of Works could not afford the upkeep of these monuments and there was a maintenance backlog many times the department’s annual budget. A review of the guardianship acquisition policy in 1956 clarified that only monuments of first-class importance should be accepted and an offer should not be deliberately sought unless the monument was in danger. The following decades were characterised by a pronounced slowing down of the number of new acquisitions — there were only six in Wales during the 1960s, including Swansea Castle (1961), and nine in the 1970s, including Blaenavon Ironworks, Torfaen (1976). On the other hand, there was a significant growth in visitor numbers and the Ministry was the biggest operator of historic attractions in Britain. The Ancient Monuments and Archaeological Areas Act 1979 was very significant, giving the Secretary of State the power of acquisition over any ancient monument to secure its preservation. Cadw, as we know it today, was created on 29 October 1984, but the number of new sites coming into guardianship remained low over the next few decades — six during the 1980s, including Dryslwyn Castle, Carmarthenshire (1980), and only three in the 1990s, including Plas Mawr, Conwy (1993). There were no new acquisitions in the first decade of the new millennium and only two in the second, including Heritage Cottage in Cwmdare, Rhondda Cynon Taf (2012). Cadw continues to assess offers of new guardianship and freehold sites, but it is unlikely that we will see large numbers of new acquisitions in the future. Our public portfolio of 130 monuments reflects different collecting policies practised over the last 138 years. The result is a magnificent range of monuments that can proudly take their place next to Wales’s other national cultural and artistic collections. Opposite, top: Conservation work in progress at Beaumaris Castle, Anglesey, in 1926, shortly after the monument was taken into guardianship in 1925.

HERITAGE IN WALES ISSUE 71

FEATURE: CADW: THE STORY OF A NATIONAL COLLECTION

The Ministry of Works and Buildings Sir Charles Reed Peers, Chief Inspector of Ancient Monuments 1913–33, developed the ‘Ministry’ approach for the preservation of medieval buildings that remained largely unchallenged until the late 1970s and can still be seen at many of our sites today. He transformed ‘the mouldering ivy-clad ruin(s) of the Romantic tradition’ into well-managed and informative archaeological sites protected from further decay or deliberate vandalism with fences and mown grass lawns. Accretions such as undergrowth, ivy and later buildings were removed; structural repairs were hidden from view and no new masonry was added unless it supported historic fabric; postmedieval evidence was removed to expose medieval remains. These physical works were complemented by measured plans, official photographs and guidebooks. Peers initiated the series of souvenir guidebooks in England and Wales, publishing Harlech Castle (with Hemp) in 1927 and Caernarvon Castle in 1930. Left: An image of the ivy-clad ruins of Tintern Abbey, Monmouthshire, before it was restored.

HERITAGE IN WALES ISSUE 71

The remains of Bryntail Lead Mine, Powys, including the gable end of the baryte factory and the lead crushing mill in front of it.

A NEW PERSPECTIVE ON

Bryntail Lead Mine

Cadw has recently invested in new interpretation at Bryntail Lead Mine in Powys. As part of this process, researcher and writer John Charlesworth explored the monument’s history and discovered that it was a struggle against bankruptcy that left us with an eccentric set of ruins… 38

NEWS

The ruins of the lead mine buildings beneath the Clywedog dam. The location of the lead crushing mill (in the middle of the image), so close to the riverbank, is unusual.

Nestled in a deep valley above Llanidloes, visitors cannot fail to be struck by Bryntail’s dramatic location. It stands by a rushing mountain river, wild and lonely. With the gigantic dam of the Clywedog reservoir towering over it, it is both beautiful and awe-inspiring. The surviving ruins are dwarfed by the 1960s dam. Close up they are substantial and complex; too complex for ordinary lead-ore processing. Dating mostly from the second half of the nineteenth century, there are the remains of dressing buildings, a mine office, smithy and store building, a leat which carried water from the nearby river Clywedog, an incline, tramway track beds and buildings for pumping and winding machinery. One deep adit is clearly visible and there are massive Yorkshire stone slab tanks, ore bins, roasting ovens, washing machinery — such as buddles and jiggers — and a wheelpit, 18.2 metres (60 feet) deep. But there are incongruities. The lead crushing mill sits close to the river in the foot of the valley. Ordinarily, the crushing mill should be placed above the rest of the lead mining works to take advantage of gravity; ore entering at the top and emerging crushed at the bottom, before being processed — sorted, washed and separated — using water power from a 7-metre (24-foot) waterwheel. But at Bryntail, the mill is too close to the river, requiring a huge effort to barrow the ore back up the hill to be processed after being crushed.

And at the top of the site, where the crushing mill should stand, there’s a factory for producing baryte, a useful mineral product used in paint manufacture in the nineteenth century. To make it was a complicated and costly labour-intensive process that required crushing, boiling and drying. According to Nigel Chapman from the Welsh Mines Preservation Trust, Bryntail is unique: ‘no other mine has as much processing of baryte on site’. So why here? At the root of the mystery is money or, in Bryntail’s case, the lack of it, despite the fact that the mid-nineteenth century was a boom time for lead-prospecting as burgeoning industrial cities demanded roofing and plumbing. In 1851, Bryntail’s owners had hoped to take advantage of this. The mine had been successful when it was first worked in the eighteenth century so it must have seemed a safe bet to start again. At first, things went well and hopes of success were raised again in 1868 when the nearby Van mine struck a rich seam of ore that made its investors wealthy. In 1869, Bryntail’s owners even formed a new company called The Van Consuls Lead and Barytes Mining Company in the hope that their neighbour’s luck would rub off. But, at Bryntail, the initial pocket of ore ran out and later finds were short-lived too, setting a pattern for the next 30 years. Then there was Bryntail’s mine captain, Cornishman James Roach, who arrived in 1853 and stayed for nearly 30 years. He must have been skilled and enterprising, but also charismatic, 39

The main processing room in the baryte factory contained stone tanks — seen here — filled with dilute sulphuric acid to dissolve away impurities in the baryte ore. The resulting white mineral would then be transferred to a room next door to be dried.

persuasive and over-optimistic. Roach had a gift for getting money from his investors and every profit-making possibility, however remote, produced a new scheme. As prospects for major lead discoveries waxed and waned, the owners turned to baryte production for income, converting the existing ore-crushing mill into a factory. Later, when lead seemed viable again, they had no choice but to build a new crushing mill in the only place left: near the river. It was this desperate hunt for profit that led to the eccentric buildings at Bryntail. Mining was a family affair and, for the families working the mines, life was hard. Before the ore entered the crushing mill, women and children as young as nine reduced it to lumps of no more than 1 cubic inch in size using hammers and muscle power. There is, however, no evidence for a village at Bryntail, meaning that it is likely that the workers lodged in local farm buildings and walked home on Sundays. Unlike neighbouring Van, Bryntail could not afford to provide housing for its workers. Roach retired in 1883 and mining at Bryntail ceased in 1884. Fourteen years of mining for baryte between 1869 and 1883 only produced 1,028 tons of workable ore — hardly a good offer! Nature has slowly reclaimed Bryntail, but the ruins in Cadw’s care remain as evidence of the triumph of hope over experience.

Rusting remains of machinery used to process baryte.

The new interpretation includes reconstruction drawings of the site in operation (Illustration by Chris Smith).

New interpretation panels will appear at the site in the spring of 2021 — COVID-19 restrictions allowing.

FEATURE: MEET THE MAKER

MEET THE MAKER

Bethan Wyn Williams Born and raised in Denbighshire, Bethan Wyn Williams is the incredibly talented artist and surface pattern designer behind our Heritage Collection — a brand new range of products inspired by the Gothic Victorian interiors of Castell Coch, Wales’s fairy-tale castle. 41

HERITAGE IN WALES ISSUE 71

Thanks to Bethan’s meticulous creative process, artistic vision and flair for image-based storytelling, the collection perfectly encapsulates both the heart and heritage of Cadw — and will soon be available to buy in selected Cadw gift shops and our online shop. We caught up with her to discuss the inspiration behind her exclusive designs, which have been printed on a variety of products, from stationery and homeware to high-end accessories.You’ll be sure to find the perfect gift for someone you know, or a treat for yourself.

What was your favourite Cadw site as a child and is it still your favourite today? Growing up in north Wales, I was extremely fortunate to be surrounded by incredible scenery and never far away from a multitude of Cadw sites. I have a particular fondness for Harlech Castle — a spectacularly statuesque fortress with a view that is hard to beat.

The magnificent, decorated ceiling of Castell Coch's drawing room has provided inspiration for the design of Cadw's new Heritage Collection.

What made you want to work on this project? It was incredibly important for me to design a collection of products that truly reflect values that I admire and believe in — so working with Cadw, an organisation that champions craftsmanship and heritage, has felt like a natural partnership. Tell us about the design you have created for the Heritage Collection products; was it inspired by anything in particular? The new design was inspired by William Burges’s drawing room at Castell Coch — a relatively small space with an overwhelmingly magical interior, where every surface has been intricately hand-painted, enveloping the visitor in a whole host of dreamlike tales. Taking inspiration from the key design details, I hand-painted my own take on Burges’s world: a complex repeating pattern full of life and the joys of the natural world, in a romanticised style reminiscent of the original designer’s approach.

FEATURE: MEET THE MAKER

If you could pick only three pieces from the collection to have and use in your everyday life, which ones would you choose — and why? The Heritage Collection has been consciously designed to bring together quality, craftsmanship and attention to detail through a range of beautiful products that evoke memories of Castell Coch’s drawing room. If I had to choose, I’d have the printed, feather-light, silk scarf, the A6 hardback notebook to keep in my handbag for sketching and making notes and the printed velvet cushions, which have a sumptuous yet cosy feel about them.

Cadw members will receive a preview of the Heritage Collection, with the opportunity to shop the range online before it is released to the public. You will also enjoy exclusive access to limited-edition prints decorated with gold-leaf accents, signed and numbered by the designer. Keep an eye out for the members preview link in our e-newsletters and social media channels.

Whether as a hobby or career, what advice would you give to someone looking to pursue art and print design? Creativity can be a beautiful antidote to the demands of everyday life and I would encourage everyone to explore ‘creating’ in whichever way feels right for them. Whether drawing, painting, printmaking, photography, pottery or gardening, the only way you progress is by making time in your week to practice. Don’t be disheartened if things don’t look exactly as you would like them to — just keep going and actively seek out new things to inspire you. If you had to host a dinner party at one Cadw site with five of your favourite artists, where and who would you choose? My dinner party would be made up of some of my favourite things and, because of this, it would have to be held within the picturesque grounds of Denbigh Castle. With a bright blue sky and the surrounding vivid green hills, there would be several Welsh blankets on the ground — as well as a picnic feast with plenty of freshly baked bread and cheese! My guests would be made up of some of my creative idols from past and present, including the painter Gillian Ayres, iconic fashion designer and political activist, Vivienne Westwood, worldrenowned textile designer, William Morris, Austrian-born architect and designer, Josef Frank, and the truly bold painter and printmaker, Howard Hodgkin. Images are for illustrative purposes and only indicative of the final design.

It is possible that the design may change on the products available for sale.

M E M B E R S’ A R E A TripAdvisor

@cadwwales; 28 September From the depths of Wales’s iconic Neolithic Tombs to the mighty fortresses of the north and south — we hope you’ve enjoyed virtually exploring Wales’s built heritage with #OpenDoorsOnlineKey

Beaumaris Castle; Colin C, London

Beautiful unfinished castle!!

Lovely ruined castle in the centre of the town. Really Covid secure with plenty of hand sanitizer available at all touchlines. Simple but informative video on the history of the site. Great views and the castle is very photogenic! Raglan Castle; HWinBucks, Buckinghamshire

Great views with lots of interesting features.

Enjoyable couple of hours exploring the castle and all the different layers of its history. Well set up for an outing while maintaining social distancing. Felt like a nearly normal day out! Staff were all welcoming and friendly.

Facebook

Felt welcome and safe.

Nadine Evans Thank you Cadw. My parents in lockdown have thoroughly enjoyed this so thank you so much to all for taking the time to do it!

Visited this lovely castle a couple of days ago — really enjoyed it. The staff were all very friendly and helpful and there was one way systems in place, face masks being worn and lots of hand sanitizing so felt very safe.

Your Tweets

Harlech Castle; Ken M, Wadhurst

Chepstow Castle; Fran, Chepstow

Well worth a visit.

Mantreaus Robespear @Mantreaus One way to travel to places we cannot, and not even wear a mask.

Really specular Norman Castle, well worth the modest entry fee, staff were helpful and we spent a good hour wandering around and looking at the view of the river. Parking literally outside too.

Carla Murillo @CarlaMu83923833 Beauty of the digital era. Exploring archaeological sites from a distance!

Instagram

Prysg Field Barracks, Caerleon.

Wingsandwellies …We’re really fortunate to have some Roman ruins really close to us that are free to visit… @cadwcymruwales describe it [Caerleon Amphitheatre] as the Roman equivalent of today’s multiplex cinema, where up to 6,000 spectators would watch displays of gladiatorial combat and wild animals (Our 6 year old asked why they didn’t just watch TV…) It’s definitely a sight to see! It’s a lovely option for an outing — whether for an hour, or all afternoon and visit the barracks as well! There’s space to run around, climb, explore, and it’s a great place to have a picnic.

MEMBERS’ AREA

Continuing your Cadw membership Everyone at Cadw would like to thank you wholeheartedly for choosing to be a Cadw member — particularly during this time of uncertainty. We appreciate that this year continues to be a difficult one and we truly value your unrivalled support and dedication towards safeguarding Wales’s historic sites. This year, your membership fee has already contributed towards many worthwhile projects, including the re-pointing of original stonework at Neath Abbey’s Tudor Mansion House. With many of you soon to decide whether or not to continue your Cadw membership for a further 12 months, we wanted to remind you of our current renewal offer. Cadw members who joined the scheme on or before 8 April 2020 are entitled to six months of free Cadw membership. This can be redeemed in one of two ways at the point of renewal.

Option 1: We have reduced our memberhsip renewal prices by 50%, allowing renewing members to purchase 12 months of membership for the price of six.

Option 2: While we hugely value your support, we appreciate that continued membership may not be a viable option for everyone. If you decide not to renew, please contact us and we will arrange for your current membership to be extended by six months — which will be valid from your membership renewal date.

As we continue to follow guidelines set out by the Welsh Government, we hope that our reduced renewal fee will encourage you to enjoy days out with us and help to compensate for the lost visiting time you have already experienced or may encounter in the coming months.

Neath Abbey Mansion House is one of our sites to benefit from conservation as a result of your membership fee.45

C A DW C RO S S WO R D

As a result of the coronavirus pandemic, we cannot accept entries by post. We are sorry for any inconvenience this may cause. Alternatively, you can take a photo with your phone or tablet and email it to cadwmarketing@gov.wales with ‘Crossword competition’ in the subject line. If you submit an image of a completed crossword by email, the crossword must be fully legible. The closing date for the competition is 31 January 2021. Terms and conditions: The prize is a Lone Stag Black Experience Hamper by Sloane Home. The prize has no cash value or alternative and is non-transferable. By participating in the competition, entrants are agreeing to receive email newsletters from Cadw until such time as they unsubscribe. The competition is not open to employees of Cadw or Equinox or members of their families.

Winner’s announcement 46

Congratulations go to… Anthony Emery from Wrexham, who completed issue 70’s Cadw crossword correctly and won a Panasonic Lumix camera.

MEMBERS’ AREA

DOWN

ACROSS

1 I n which town has the Old Post Office been converted into a small museum by the local community? (8)

2 What is the most popular lunch dish at the Harlech Castle café? (5, 7)

3 Who was the first Black footballer capped for Wales? (5, 6) 4 What royal ceremonial item did William Marshal carry before King Richard I at his coronation? (7)

4 The Lordship of ________ is now known as Chepstow. (8) 5T he first legislation designed to maintain and protect historic monuments covered monuments from which period of history? (11) 7 Which was the first monument to be brought into state guardianship? (6,4) 8 Which famous Welsh mountain can be seen from Harlech Castle café? (7)

6 From which English county did James Roach come to Bryntail Lead Mine? (8)

10 What is the historical name of decorative items made out of sugar paste? (10)

9 In which Welsh castle would Bethan Wyn Williams like to host a dinner party with her five favourite artists? (7)

13 A t which rugby club can memorial gates be found for club members who lost their lives in the First World War? (7)

11 Which country park in Bridgend has attained Green Heritage Site Accreditation? (8) 12 H ow many AA telephone boxes remain in their original locations in Wales? (5) 16 Which town in Caerphilly was the first to have a StoryMap created as part of the 15-Minute Heritage initiative? (6)

12 Which Christmas bird wasn’t available to medieval diners? (6)

14 What type of pattern was painted on the walls of Marshal’s Tower? (6) 15 What mineral was processed at Bryntail Lead Mine when lead ore was in short supply? (6) 17 _ _______ James Hemp was the first dedicated Inspector of Ancient Monuments in Wales. (7) 18 Which castle was occupied by the Home Guard during the Second World War? (7)

Win a Lone Stag Black Experience Hamper courtesy of Sloane Home! The award-winning Lone Stag Black Experience Hamper by Welsh lifestyle brand Sloane Home — a Cadw supplier — usually retails at £195 and is a perfectly luxurious prize! Presented in a beautiful box and finished with a hand-tied bow, the hamper includes a 200ml Lone Stag Black gin infused with organic blackcurrants and Columbian coffee, roasted over oak in the Welsh Black Mountains, and finished with truffle-tasting notes. This is accompanied by the Lone Stag Blackcurrant Frisky Fruits — the perfect pairing with a sweet dessert or savoury cheese board — and a selection of Halen Môn Chocolate and Caramel Truffles. These flavours are effortlessly complemented by a selection of home and body treats in the unisex Topiary Garden scent, a bold and spirited evergreen fragrance. Discover the hand-poured Sloane candle and the Joy Sticks scent diffuser to fragrance your home. Finally, enjoy a well-earned pamper with the purest Dead Sea bath salts, body wash and the rich and nourishing body balm.

Cadw members will receive 10% off any purchases from sloanehome.co.uk until 10 February 2021. Just enter the discount code cadw10. 47

HERITAGE IN WALES ISSUE 71

Have you signed up to MyCadw yet? As a valued Cadw member, you are entitled to access MyCadw, the exclusive membership area on our website.

Plus, as soon as your account is activated, you can: • Update your membership details yourself (e.g. email address, postal address and telephone number) • Renew, edit or cancel your membership subscription at any time • View your entire Cadw membership history — including a transaction log of all products and event and site-entry tickets purchased to date.

Soon, you will also be able to cancel any site-entry tickets that you have previously reserved, but can no longer use, by simply logging into your MyCadw account.

To sign up and activate your MyCadw account: 1. Visit cadwmembership.service.gov.wales/my-cadw/ 2. Select ‘Not yet online activated?’ 3. Enter the details required, including your membership number (excluding any letters) 4. Submit and activate your account.

If you experience any problems when activating your MyCadw account, our membership team will be happy to help. Give them a call on 0800 0743121. 48

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16

Holyhead Mountain Hut Group Caer y Twr ˆ Hillfort Caer Gybi Roman Fortlet Penrhos Feilw Standing Stones Tyˆ Mawr Standing Stone Trefignath Burial Chamber Tregwehelydd Standing Stone Presaddfed Burial Chamber Tyˆ Newydd Burial Chamber Barclodiad y Gawres Burial Chamber Din Dryfol Burial Chamber Bodowyr Burial Chamber Castell Bryn Gwyn Caer Lêb Bryn Celli Ddu Burial Chamber Hafoty Medieval House

Capel Lligwy Lligwy Burial Chamber Din Lligwy Penmon Priory Maen Achwyfan 2 Hut Group and St Seiriol’s Well 3 Cross 7 Penmon Cross Conwy Castle Basingwerk and Town Walls ISLE OF and Dovecot 8 4 Abbey 5 16 ANGLESEY Rhuddlan Castle Plas 9 and Twthill 6 Flint Castle 11 15 Mawr Beaumaris St Winifred’s Chapel 14 Castle and Holy Well 10 Denbigh Friary, Leicester’s Church 12 Ewloe and St Hilary’s Chapel FLINTSHIRE Castle 13 Segontium CONWY Caernarfon Castle Denbigh Castle Roman Fort Caergwrle and Town Walls Gwydir Uchaf and Town Walls Castle Chapel DENBIGHSHIRE Dolbadarn Derwen Churchyard Capel Garmon Cae’r Gors Castle Cross Burial Chamber Eliseg’s Dolwyddelan Pillar Castle Rug Chapel St Cybi’s WREXHAM Well Llangar Criccieth Valle Crucis Abbey Old Parish Church Castle Penarth Fawr GWYNEDD Medieval House Harlech Castle Dyffryn Ardudwy Burial Chamber Cymer Abbey

Prehistoric site

Pont Minllyn

Roman site Castell y Bere

Castle, historic house, palace

Montgomery Castle

Religious site Historic industrial site

Dolforwyn Castle

Dyfi Furnace

Bryntail Lead Mine

Other historic site

0 Kilometres

15 10

0 Miles

POWYS

Strata Florida Abbey

CEREDIGION

St Dogmaels Abbey Cilgerran Castle Carreg Coetan Arthur Burial Chamber St Davids Bishop’s Palace St Non’s Chapel

Dryslwyn Castle CARMARTHENSHIRE

PEMBROKESHIRE Wiston Castle Llawhaden Castle

Brecon Gaer Roman Fort

Carreg Cennen Castle

Llanthony Priory

So many Cadw sites waiting to be discovered…

Heritage Cottage RHONDDA Swansea Castle SWANSEA CYNON TAF Parc le Breos Weobley Castle Burial Chamber BRIDGEND Caerphilly Castle Margam Coity Castell Coch Stones Museum Castle Oxwich Castle CARDIFF Newcastle (Bridgend) Tinkinswood St Quentin’s Burial Chamber Castle Ogmore Ewenny Castle Priory St Lythans Old Beaupre Castle Burial Chamber THE VALE OF GLAMORGAN

FA TOR

Hen Gwrt Moated Site Monmouth Castle Blaenavon Raglan Ironworks Castle MONMOUTHSHIRE Tintern Abbey Chepstow Castle and Port Wall CAERPHILLY Caerleon 20 Roman Fortress 19 AU N T AE EN BL GW

NEATH PORT TALBOT Neath Abbey

RTH

Kidwelly Castle

Loughor Castle

Grosmont Castle Skenfrith Castle White Castle

Tretower Castle and Court

Llansteffan Laugharne Castle Castle

Carew Cross Carswell Medieval House Lamphey Bishop’s Palace

Dinefwr Castle

Bronllys Castle

Haverfordwest Priory

Talley Abbey

Pentre Ifan Burial Chamber

NEWPORT

18 17

Newport Castle 17 18 19 20

Caerwent Roman Town Runston Chapel Chepstow Bulwarks Camp Llanmelin Wood Hillfort

Image: Harlech Castle, Gwynedd. Cadw is the Welsh Government’s historic environment service working for an accessible and well-protected historic environment for Wales. © Crown copyright (2020) Cadw Editorial enquiries to: Heritage in Wales, Cadw, Plas Carew, Unit 5/7 Cefn Coed, Parc Nantgarw, Cardiff CF15 7QQ. Tel 0300 0256000 Email cadw@gov.wales gov.wales/cadw Magazine content was correct at the time of going to print. Views expressed in Heritage in Wales are not necessarily the views of Cadw. Cadw does not necessarily endorse goods or services advertised in this magazine. This publication is also available in Welsh under the title Etifeddiaeth y Cymry. For all Cadw membership enquiries please telephone 0800 074 3121.

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ISSUE 71

Heritage in Wales 71

Articles inside

Meet the maker: Bethan Wyn Williams

A new perspective on Bryntail Lead Mine

Cadw: the story of a national collection

William Marshal

News

History Hunters

15-Minute Heritage

Conservation action

Meet the twenty-first-century faces behind Harlech Castle

The latest listings

Saints or sinners?