Heritage in Wales Magazine 2021 by Central Design Team Publications

For us all, to keep.

2021

Heritage in Wales Retelling the mountains’ story: Discover the secrets of the Carneddau

World-class Caerphilly Castle: Grand plans for the great hall

Introducing Caergwrle Castle: Now in the care of Cadw

Virtual visits: See the top sites — at home!

Make a date with 2022 Start planning for 2022 with the new Cadw calendar, featuring 12 of our most‑loved sites at their very best, including Welsh-built Dolbadarn Castle on the front cover — your runaway favourite in our cover competition public vote.

Other sites making an appearance include an overhead view of the uniquely diamond-shaped Rhuddlan Castle, the hauntingly grand interior of Tintern Abbey, prehistoric Pentre Ifan Burial Chamber, the magnificent fortress-palace of Raglan Castle, the Elizabethan great chamber in Plas Mawr town house and, of course, the stunning Edwardian castles of Beaumaris, Caernarfon, Conwy and Harlech. You can also seek solace in our religious sites, including the lovely Lamphey Bishop’s Palace and the awe-inspiring Llanthony Priory. An interior shot of the beautifully painted ceiling of Castell Coch’s drawing room crowns the collection for Christmas. The Cadw calendar includes plenty of space for making note of important dates, events and special occasions. It’s a must-have for any history lover, but would also make an ideal gift. What’s more, by purchasing the calendar, you will be helping to conserve 130 of our historic sites across Wales. The calendar is available to buy in Cadw shops or online at bit.ly/Cadwcalendar2022 It is priced at £9.95 (£8.95 for members) with postage (to UK addresses only) starting at £2.95. A 10% members’ discount applies in shops and online.

Croeso i Heritage in Wales

Dawn Bowden MS, Deputy Minister for Arts and Sport.

It’s remarkable to think that we’ve already passed the halfway mark for the year. And what a year it’s been. Though a challenging time for us all, our dedication as a nation means that we are now able to get out and enjoy more of the activities that we love this summer —― not least, visiting our favourite Cadw sites. What’s more, there’s been lots of activity going on behind-the-scenes since our last issue and we’ll be revealing all in this edition of Heritage in Wales. On page 8, you can read about our grand plans for Wales’ largest castle, Caerphilly. Already one of Cadw’s most popular destinations, new developments will see it further transformed into a world-class visitor attraction.

On the subject of popular Welsh icons, we were lucky enough to (virtually) sit down with rugby legend, Shane Williams. He told us about his record-breaking cycling adventure to 50 Welsh castles and his epic story can be found on page 15. From one inspiring story to another, page 38 sees us explore fascinating tales from the Carneddau mountains. These ancient peaks house a complex history of human occupation, with never-before-told stories being uncovered as part of a major project. As well as old tales, we’re also proud to tell you about some new beginnings… Firstly, the addition of Caergwrle Castle to Cadw’s iconic collection of monuments. It’s the 43rd castle to be welcomed and a truly significant site, ―best known for its strategic role in the battle for Welsh independence.

You can learn more about this impressive fortress on page 32. On a more personal note, this issue marks a new beginning for me too: my first foreword — ―hopefully of many — ―for Heritage in Wales, as I take on the role of Deputy Minister for Arts and Sport. Further to this, as we turn the page to a brighter summer, I’d like to thank you all personally. Firstly, for your unwavering support in continuing to support Cadw through membership — the proceeds of which are vital in preserving Welsh heritage for future generations to explore and enjoy. And, lastly, thank you for your loyal cooperation in helping Cadw reopen its sites safely. Your patience and understanding during this time has been appreciated beyond measure. Diolch. 1

Contents 1

Welcome Our new Deputy Minister for Arts and Sport, Dawn Bowden MS, welcomes you to the summer edition of Heritage in Wales.

Grand plans for Wales’ largest castle Our works at Caerphilly Castle continue apace! Catch up with our progress to date and discover our exciting plans to develop Caerphilly into a leading visitor attraction.

Five minutes with Shane Williams The legend of Welsh rugby tells us about his record-breaking cycle journey around Wales, as well as his plans for future challenges.

News

What have we been up to? Catch up with the latest news, from Snowdonia National Park Authority’s plans to enrich Wales’ historical record, to our work to welcome you back to our sites and the digital resources available for young history fans!

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Virtual visits

Discovering Welsh heritage in south-east Wales

Our range of virtual tours is expanding! From the mystery of prehistoric burial chambers to the powerhouse of industrial Wales, explore 17 of our sites from your desktop or phone. Even if you can’t visit — you can!

Now that summer’s here, Cadw, National Museum Wales and the National Trust bring you a guide to some of the amazing places to visit in south-east Wales, from majestic castles and spectacular gardens to panoramic views of the river Severn.

Join Wil, Cate and Gelert on holiday as they experiment with the ultimate prehistoric sandcastle, decorate a stone like our ancestors did and recreate ancient clay pots!

We’ve been busy throughout the winter! Catch up on works at Coity Castle, Tretower Court barn and Caernarfon Castle.

History Hunters

Conservation in action

36 A spotlight on… Tucked away between a truck stop and the A55, Trefignath Burial Chamber, near Holyhead, stands as a reminder of another time.

15-Minute Heritage

Retelling the mountains’ story

Following on from the previous edition of Heritage in Wales, Judith Alfrey, Head of Regeneration and Conservation, reveals how Cadw’s custodians have set out to explore their local areas.

The forbidding Carneddau mountains may appear to be a windswept wilderness, but they have a rich history of human occupation. Learn how Cadw is involved in a major project with a range of partners to uncover the remarkable story of these ancient peaks.

Introducing Caergwrle Castle As Caergwrle Castle becomes the 43rd castle to come into our care, Dr Jon Berry, Cadw’s Senior Inspector of Ancient Monuments and Archaeology, introduces this remarkable site and its strategic role in the fight for Welsh independence.

Members’ area Crack the crossword for the chance to win a compact camera, plus a reminder of how to monitor and manage your site entry tickets.

News Discover the heroes and heroines of Wales… We know how much our youngest members enjoy exploring the epic history of Wales — which is why Wales-wide site closures encouraged us to create a digital treasure trove of inspiring stories and history-themed activities to be enjoyed at home. From digital stories and hands-on missions to educational videos telling the fascinating tales of characters from Welsh history, our collection of familyfriendly materials is perfect for keeping the children entertained — all while encouraging them to keep learning about the rich heritage of Wales. What’s more, the digital stories and activities aren’t just good for home learning and entertainment. As our sites re-open, the content will enable your children to continue their exploration of Wales’ past, beyond the drawbridge (or gigantic wooden site door!) You can introduce them to everything from the story of Gwenllian — the brave warrior princess who attacked the Normans near Kidwelly Castle — to St Dwynwen’s tale of love and heartbreak. With all materials readily accessible on the Cadw website, your little ones can get inspired to create their very own ‘superhero’ with Mythflix the Bard or aid Robert ap Maredudd in his search for the mythical hiding place of Owain Glyndŵr.

Our educational videos are also available to watch on our YouTube channel — youtube.com/user/ cadwwales/videos — featuring captivating performances from Welsh actors to help bring the characters to life. Other free, downloadable resources include our illustrated eBook series and more than 20 colouring sheets, with outlines of famous figures from Welsh history, castles and Roman armour. Furthermore, in 2020, instead of hosting live historical performances across our collection of sites, as we have done for many years, we also supported the digital Children’s Festival of Welsh History. Watch the collection of captivating videos on our website, from the rollicking tale of Barti Ddu (or Black Bart) — the pirate who terrorised the Caribbean — to the gritty determination of Mary Jones, who walked bare-foot for 26 miles to buy a copy of the Bible. It is hoped that the live Children’s Festival of Welsh History will be returning to historic sites across Wales later this year but, for now, please visit bit.ly/ChildrensHistoryFestival to enjoy last year’s perfomances. To find out more about famous characters in Welsh history, visit bit.ly/HeroesAndHeroines

Top right An illustration of Gwenllian, Wales' very own warrior princess.

Middle right Downloadable colouring sheets are available on the Cadw website for famous Welsh figures, including Llywelyn ap Iorwerth.

Bottom right Mythflix the Bard will challenge children to create their own superhero, inspired by the poems, songs and stories of Wales' past.

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The lost buildings of

Ardudwy Over the next three years, Snowdonia National Park Authority will be working on a project to rediscover and celebrate the lost heritage of vernacular buildings and learn more about the people who once lived and worked in them.

So many of us have learnt to appreciate our local area over the past year and we've taken a keen interest in the heritage on our doorstep. You may have passed a ruined farmhouse and wondered about its past life.

Cadw’s role in an anti-racist Wales In March 2021, the Welsh Government published a draft race equality action plan for Wales. The plan, An Anti-Racist Wales, covers all aspects of life. It looks to bring about lasting change and ensure that everyone in Wales is treated as an equal citizen. And Cadw is at the heart of changes in our sector.

Working with Cadw and other partners, the project will focus on farmsteads and ruins in Ardudwy — even those without a roof or substantial remains — on the western side of the Rhinogydd, Gwynedd. These buildings, once discovered, will be plotted on a map and added to the Historic Environment Record. We also hope to add the everyday stories from everyday people to our more well-known national histories; the stories of the people who lived and worked in Ardudwy, including the farmers, slate-boat men and the

occasional egg dealer — lives that are often undocumented and hidden from view. If you live in the area and would like to get involved in collecting and archiving these local stories, or you have information you would like to share, please contact Jess John at Snowdonia National Park — tel. 07824 803046 or email Jessica.john@eryri.llyw.cymru.

Building on work undertaken as part of the previously published document, The Slave Trade and the British Empire: An Audit of Commemoration in Wales, we contributed to a list of priorities for Culture, Heritage and Sport. We helped establish five key goals and a range of actions that seek to address personal and institutional racism across the sector. We did this by engaging with key sector bodies and partners and with the help of local communities. Developing a plan is one thing, but making it live and breathe is another. We are not complacent and we are aware

that there is still much to do to reflect and celebrate our shared history more holistically and to eliminate discrimination and barriers in all aspects of Cadw’s work. But we are up to the challenge and look forward to implementing our priorities for a more equal, anti-racist Wales in the months and years to come. Consultation on the plan ended on 17 June, but you can still read it by visiting gov.wales/race-equality-actionplan-anti-racist-wales. A final version that incorporates all feedback received will be implemented later this year.

Above A photograph of Capel Ty’n Drain in 1913 compared with how it looks today. © Iolyn Jones

NEWS

Perfect gates for a picturesque castle

There’s no denying it, Llansteffan Castle boasts one of the most stunning locations in Wales. Crowning the top of a headland overlooking the lush Carmarthenshire countryside, with panoramic views across the sand-flats of the Tywi Estuary, its strategic position meant that it was fought over for hundreds of years. The remains of the castle itself are significant too. Llansteffan’s original timber castle was gradually

Image The new wrought-iron gates at Llansteffan Castle.

replaced in stone as Anglo-Norman Marcher lords and native Welsh rulers of Deheubarth (south-west Wales) sparred over its ownership. Its massive twin-towered gatehouse, built around 1280, still looms large. The castle was held for the Welsh during Owain Glyndŵr’s war of independence, but eventually passed to the English Crown. In the late fifteenth century, King Henry VII gave Llansteffan to his uncle and guardian, Jasper Tudor, earl of Pembroke.

It was at this time that the medieval gatehouse was blocked up to provide more living space. A smaller, simpler entrance was added alongside and it is this Tudor gateway that you pass through as you enter the castle today. Working closely with the castle’s owner, Marian Evans, we commissioned artist Rubin Eynon and blacksmith Glen Adams to create a new pair of gates for the gateway. Our brief was ‘functional as well as beautiful’ — we wanted the gates to secure the castle and keep it safely closed at night but to also reflect and celebrate the Tudor period of Llansteffan’s history. The artists took inspiration from contemporary metalwork, such as the wrought-iron gates at Chichester Cathedral, with their repeating forms and fixings of pins and rivets. Look out for the small brass plaques featuring emblems found on Jasper Tudor’s coat of arms, including a martlet — a swallow-like bird. We hope our new gates will welcome you, inspire you and impress you — just as any Welsh prince, Marcher lord or Tudor noble would have wanted to do, back in the day! Left The picturesque location of Llansteffan Castle, Carmarthenshire.

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Keeping Cadw sites safe from coronavirus Left Safety measures to prevent the spread of coronavirus are in place at all Cadw sites, including Plas Mawr, Conwy.

From Beaumaris to Caerphilly and Chepstow to Conwy, throughout the pandemic Cadw has taken steps to defend Wales’ castles, abbeys and historic houses from the threat of coronavirus. These precautions have enabled visitors to rediscover and enjoy Wales’ most unique historical places in comfort and safety. As we continue to open our sites to visitors over the next few months, here is a reminder of the safety procedures in place…

With capacity figures reduced to a safe level, all visitors — including Cadw members — will need to reserve a time-allotted ticket before visiting (see p.44 for more information). Social distancing measures are in place at all staffed sites, with one-way systems used to help visitors maintain a safe distance. Plus, hand-sanitiser stations have been introduced at key locations across sites, with many of our custodians wearing PPE — for your safety and theirs.

Meanwhile, on-site signage is used to inform visitors of other changing rules and regulations at our monuments, in line with the latest updates from Welsh Government. The measures may seem like an inconvenience, but many of our visitors have given positive feedback on how the safety measures have improved their experience. Twitter user @Will_ONeill commented on the ‘great one-way system and social distancing in place’ at Conwy Castle; while Kelly Shute, on Instagram, gave ‘a special mention to [the] helpful and friendly staff’ at Raglan Castle. Cadw’s utmost priority remains the health and safety of our employees, Cadw members and visitors while they are on site. We hope to see you for a safe and socially distanced visit very soon. For up-to-date information, please visit the Cadw website before your visit — cadw. gov.wales/our-re-opening-guidance

Left The development of the Cadw logo from 1984 to 2021.

New look Cadw brand for 2021 The eagle-eyed amongst you may notice some changes to the Cadw brand this year. We have refreshed the brand look and messaging and will be rolling out new-style materials throughout the year. Cadw is part of the Cymru Wales brand family along with other Welsh Government departments like Food

and Drink, Creative Wales, Study in Wales and Transport for Wales. While Cadw retains its own clear identity, the synergy with the nation brand provides opportunities to promote our sites more effectively, in the UK and overseas. We have retained our iconic logo inspired by the Carew Cross, but it has been modernised under the new brand. Part of the exercise was also to confirm our key messages and organisational mission and values. We have a new core proposition which you may begin to see on our materials:

Cadw. Er lles pawb. For us all, to keep. We retain our clear mission of ‘Caring for historic places, inspiring current and future generations’ and our vision is ‘A Wales where historic places are cared for, understood and shared by everyone’. As members you help us to continue to fulfil these aims to preserve Wales’ historic places for us all to enjoy — thank you! 7

C A E R P H I L LY C A S T L E

Grand plans for Wales’ largest castle… Medieval, majestic, magical — Caerphilly Castle is recognised as one of western Europe’s great monuments of the Middle Ages. And it’s easy to see why…

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With its epic leaning tower, water‑filled moat and imposing stone walls, Caerphilly Castle is already a much‑loved heritage attraction, welcoming thousands of visitors each year. But what’s in store for the sleeping giant of Wales during 2021 and beyond? Cadw has a vision to transform the impressive monument into a world-class heritage attraction that will truly reflect its historic importance and architectural achievement. To this end, we have allocated £5m towards an ambitious programme of conservation, interpretation and development works.

Starting this year and running through to 2023, the project will help to establish the castle as a key tourism destination in Wales. The investment will encourage more people to visit and engage with the site’s rich history, while protecting it for the benefit of future generations. Preparation at the castle is already underway: over the winter months, we installed new paths throughout the inner ward and carried out a series of detailed architectural surveys and archaeological investigations. These studies are vital to ensure that we fully understand the castle and identify any hidden archaeological remains before progressing with conservation and construction.

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The project will help to establish the castle as a key tourism destination in Wales.

A view of Caerphilly Castle, looking south-west across the north lake.

Top One of the new paths improving access to the inner ward of the castle.

Bottom An archaeological excavation has recently taken place within the great hall.

Central to the development project is a new interpretation scheme for the castle — for which we have allocated £1m in funding — which aims to provide visitors with fascinating new insights into medieval life at Caerphilly. The new interpretation will feature advanced digital technology to present the stories of the men and women who built the castle and lived within its sprawling grounds. This will complement existing popular installations such as the statue of the marquess of Bute and the reconstructed timber hoard, or fighting platform, along the inner ward curtain wall. We hope that these innovative improvements will help us better tell the tale of Caerphilly Castle’s rich, yet tumultuous, history. What’s more, visitors can expect to see improvements introduced across the site. Not only will this include new facilities — such as a new visitor centre and café, reception area, toilets and education room — but also upgraded paths, bridges and landscaping to make more parts of the castle accessible. These improvements will mean all visitors can enjoy a historic adventure at Caerphilly Castle. Refurbishment works to the existing shop will also be completed, alongside conservation work to the walls of the outer ward, the inner east gatehouse and the earl’s apartments. The centrepiece of the project will be the refurbishment of the jewel in Caerphilly Castle’s crown — the great hall — which will be redecorated to reflect its former glory. The largest of its period in the UK, the great hall was designed to impress. Refurbishment will help to present visitors with a re-imagined design of how the grand space might have looked in its medieval heyday. Those hoping to find their own fairy-tale in the castle grounds are also in luck, as the new-look great hall and refurbished earl’s apartments will welcome happy couples for wedding ceremonies. Keep your eyes peeled on our website and social media channels for further project updates this year — cadw.gov.wales

Top The statue of the marquess of Bute holding up the leaning south-east tower, a much-loved installation at the castle. Middle An aerial view of Caerphilly from the south-east. You can appreciate the sheer size and scale of the castle, with its multiple islands, lakes and dams. © Crown Copyright: RCAHMW Bottom The great hall at Caerphilly takes your breath away. It is widely regarded as one of the largest non-royal great halls ever built in England and Wales.

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Redressing Caerphilly’s great hall

The medieval great hall is at the heart of Caerphilly Castle, designed to host ceremonies and feasts in splendid surroundings. Cadw’s new interpretation will present the great hall as it might have appeared during its medieval prime, so that visitors can get a sense of the colour, decoration and activity that once took place within its walls. The first great hall was installed in the thirteenth century by Gilbert de Clare, the builder of the castle. This was later remodelled on the orders of Hugh Despenser to incorporate grand windows and a fireplace, creating a room fit to entertain King Edward II during his ill-fated visit in 1326. The building we enter today also benefits from the work of the third marquess of Bute, who rescued it from ruin by re-roofing it in 1871. Conservation work by Cadw followed, preserving the structure for future generations. We know that medieval halls were opulent, colourful places with painted walls, tapestries, wall hangings and dressed stone. In Caerphilly, only the latter survives in the form of corbels carved to represent human heads. Cadw’s updated decoration will replace what is missing — adding wall hangings and painted, carved wooden panelling with colours and motifs drawn from contemporary survivals to cover the bare walls, a wooden dais and replica furniture fit for hosting feasts. All installations will be guided by historical research and designed to be fully reversible. These will be supported by modern intervention through digital projection, helping to bring the medieval ambience to life.

Top An artist's impression of the great hall as it might have appeared in its medieval heyday. © Bright (Lead Interpretation Design Team) and Jam Creative Studios (Digital Specialists) Bottom The triple-headed corbels in the great hall may represent Edward II and Hugh Despenser.

VIRTUAL VISITS

Step inside a virtual world of Welsh heritage… Seven historic sites. Seven brand-new virtual tours. Get ready for an adventure through history from the comfort of your home.

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Left Dyffryn Ardudwy Burial Chamber, Gwynedd. Right Caerleon Amphitheatre, Newport. Bottom right Rug Chapel, Denbighshire.

In April this year, we launched a brand-new collection of virtual site tours, offering the people of Wales and beyond the chance to explore seven of our most spectacular heritage monuments through the very latest digital technology. Featuring everything from a tour of Plas Mawr — Conwy’s Elizabethan town house — to an inside‑out look at the coastal ruins of Criccieth Castle, our themed collection of virtual experiences allows ‘visitors’ to explore the hidden depths of Wales’ past through fully articulated, 3D content. It’s all part of Cadw’s Virtual Visits campaign, which allows visitors from across the globe to continue their discovery of Wales’ built heritage during 2021 and beyond.

Other newly featured sites include ancient monuments — Barclodiad y Gawres and Dyffryn Ardudwy burial chambers and the Roman amphitheatre at Caerleon — as well as an array of religious buildings, from St Davids Bishop’s Palace in Pembrokeshire to Rug Chapel in Denbighshire. Powered by advanced, interactive technology, the brand-new series of digital excursions are designed to bolster our existing collection of virtual experiences, bringing the total number to 17. Having reached millions of users during the Wales and UK-wide lockdown periods, each tour is still available to view and explore on the Cadw website, for free. The content is designed to be compatible across all devices, so all you need is a desktop computer, mobile phone or VR head-set to be fully immersed inside your selected, themed adventure.

Our themed collection of virtual experiences allows ‘visitors’ to explore the hidden depths of Wales’ past.

Which content package will you explore first? Medieval Forts Digitally wander the remains of four epic medieval fortresses: the native Welsh castles of Criccieth and Castell y Bere, both the work of Llywelyn ab Iorwerth — ‘the Great’ — in the first half of the thirteenth century; Harlech Castle, built by King Edward I in 1283; and Raglan Castle, a fifteenth-century fortress-palace. Neolithic Tombs Journey into our ancient past by virtually exploring four of Wales’ most fascinating Neolithic monuments: Anglesey’s Barclodiad y Gawres, with its rare surviving examples of prehistoric art; evocative Bryn Celli Ddu, also in Anglesey, aligned to the rising sun on the longest day of the year; wellpreserved Dyffryn Ardudwy, a burial chamber in Gwynedd; and atmospheric Pentre Ifan in Pembrokeshire.

Religious Relics Marvel over the magnificent roof of Rug Chapel, with its intricate carving and floral design, before experiencing the sheer wonder of magical Tintern Abbey in south Wales and serene Valle Crucis Abbey in the north. Roman Remains Join the Romans and step back in time with a virtual visit to Caerleon Amphitheatre, which once played host to fierce gladiatorial combat, and Din Lligwy Hut Group, a late Roman native settlement on Anglesey. Historic Homes Unlock unlimited virtual entry to three iconic homes from Wales’ past: medieval St Davids Bishop’s Palace, Plas Mawr — built by Robert Wynn in the sixteenth century — and Wales’ fairy-tale castle, Castell Coch, restored in the nineteenth century by the wealthy Bute family.

Industrial Hubs Enter the era of the Industrial Revolution and discover the best-preserved eighteenth-century ironworks in the world at Blaenavon. The tour, which boasts seven highly advanced 3D scans, enables users to virtually explore this unique ironworks site without limits.

Whether you live in Wales, the wider UK or on the other side of the world, we hope that our themed collection of ‘Virtual Visits’ will offer you an alternative way to engage with the very best of Wales’ built-heritage. For more information please visit: cadw.gov.wales/visit/ whats-on/virtual-visits

Top

Criccieth Castle, Gwynedd.

Valle Crucis Abbey, Denbighshire.

St Davids Bishop’s Palace, Pembrokeshire.

Bottom

Pentre Ifan Burial Chamber, Pembrokeshire.

Din Lligwy Hut Group, Anglesey.

Blaenavon Ironworks, Torfaen.

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Five minutes with

Shane Williams Father, Welsh rugby legend and Guinness World Record holder… In a career full of wins, titles and awards, one of the few accolades which, until now, had eluded Shane Williams was a Guinness World Records™ title… Having successfully cycled 736.71 miles and visited 50 castles within seven days, he is now the proud owner of the ‘most castles visited in one week by bicycle’ title. We caught up with Shane following his record-breaking feat… From everyone at Cadw, we’d like to offer you a huge congratulations! Where does this latest achievement sit for you, alongside your many other personal feats? ‘ This ranks up there! I wanted to do it to set myself a challenge. I’ve never done anything like this before, so I really didn’t know if I was going to be successful.’ What made you decide to cycle around Wales and visit 50 castles? ‘ I’ve always wanted to cycle around Wales and visiting all the castles along the route felt like a natural way to enhance the journey. I certainly came away from it knowing a lot more about the history of Wales!’

Top Shane Williams pictured in December 2011 during the Wales v Australia international at the Principality Stadium, Cardiff. © PA Images / Alamy Stock Photo

Bottom Shane Williams visited Dinefwr Castle in Carmarthenshire as part of his epic bike ride around Wales.

Had you visited many Cadw sites prior to your visits this year? ‘ Over the years, my family and I have probably visited three or four castles. But as soon as I completed the challenge, we started planning road trips to places like Caernarfon, Harlech and Beaumaris — places we haven’t been to as a family before. After you’ve done something like this, you realise just how special Wales is. There’s a lot to learn and a lot of that comes from visiting historical sites.’

How would you compare 736.71 miles on a bike to 80 minutes on the rugby pitch? ‘ Physically, they were completely different. My body isn’t quite used to cycling that far. But that is the challenge that I had to face — and thrive on. Mentally, when things aren’t going your way during games, you’ve got to keep going until the end; I took the same approach on the bike.’ As somebody who’s used to playing in front of tens of thousands of people, how did you find the experience of quieter roads and empty castles due to the pandemic? ‘ I didn’t really meet many people on the bike ride — and it was tough. When we stopped in the towns and villages, there was hardly any interaction, which was quite bizarre. It would have been nice to do it with crowds and people cheering you on.’ If you could only visit one Cadw castle for the rest of your life, which would it be? ' I'd say that Harlech Castle was my favourite. We visited at the end of a long day and I remember having to cycle up a really, really tough hill to get there. But the castle was fantastic. It was a lovely day and the view of the ocean there was just incredible. Plus, when I turned around from the view, there was a birthday cake waiting for me, which was lovely.’ What’s next for Shane Williams, as far as challenges go? Has this given you a taste for breaking any more world records? ‘ I’ve signed up to the 3 Canyons Bike Challenge for Velindre Cancer Centre, Cardiff, in September — and Kilimanjaro is in my sights for next year. My mind is ticking, so watch this space!’

Right STRAND TITLE Raglan Castle, Monmouthshire.

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Discovering Welsh heritage in south-east Wales When it comes to exploring the wonders of Wales, our stunning coastline and rich built heritage are often the first things that spring to mind. And the beauty of south-east Wales is that it's got both, just waiting to be discovered. To make your next summer adventure easier than ever, we’ve compiled a list of the region’s very best castles and coastal walks, galleries and gardens. All that’s left to do is pack the sat-nav, a picnic and your imagination…

1. Revel in riches at Raglan Castle Perched on a ridge within the glorious Monmouthshire countryside, Raglan Castle is truly a ‘site’ for sore eyes. The work of Sir William ap Thomas — also known as the ‘blue knight of Gwent’ — this beautiful fortress-palace was built to intimidate and impress in equal measure. The fifteenth-century castle was eventually turned into a regal residence. Its fashionable long gallery and sumptuous Renaissance garden made it the perfect country seat for various earls of Worcester. Visitors of all ages can visualise the opulence of Raglan’s heyday, while learning about the combat it faced during the Civil War. Check the latest restrictions and book your visit via: cadwmembership.service.gov.wales/events

2. E xplore 600 years of history at Chepstow Castle For those looking to kill two castles with one stone, Chepstow is a mere 30-minute drive from Raglan, with the majesty to match. On your visit, you’ll discover 600 years of history unfolding across the length of a long, limestone cliff above the river Wye, before the castle declined after the Civil War. Boasting extraordinary defensive capabilities (and fantastic views), Chepstow was home to some of the most powerful people in medieval Wales — including wealthy heiress, Isabel de Clare and knight extraordinaire, William Marshal: the ultimate celebrity couple of their time. Make sure you pack sensible shoes for your visit because this strategically built castle is situated on a gradual incline. You'll be ready for a treat from the nearby town centre by the time you leave! Check the latest restrictions and book your visit via: cadwmembership.service.gov.wales/events

3. D iscover the story of Wales at St Fagans National Museum of History Set in the grounds of St Fagans Castle and gardens, this open‑air museum won The Art Fund Museum of the Year award in 2019. Since 1948, this free-entry museum has re-erected over 50 original buildings from different periods, allowing visitors to explore the everyday lives of real people from Welsh history. Featuring houses, a farm, a school, a medieval church, a shop, a splendid Workmen’s Institute and indoor galleries, it’s fair to say that this unique museum — set within 100 acres of beautiful parkland — holds a special place in the hearts of all who visit. Offering a palpable sense of nostalgia for visitors of all ages, this extraordinary place is a must-see all-year round. Check the latest restrictions and book your visit via: museum.wales/stfagans/visit Top An artist's impression of Raglan Castle and its landscaped gardens in the seventeenth century.

Bottom Gwalia Stores, St Fagans National Museum of History.

Opposite page: Middle 1 Tintern Abbey, Monmouthshire.

Middle Chepstow Castle, Monmouthshire.

Opposite page: Top Tredegar House, Newport.

Opposite page: Middle 2 White Castle, Monmouthshire.

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Opposite page: Bottom National Museum Cardiff.

4. W alk in the footsteps of Welsh socialites at Tredegar House Situated outside the hustle and bustle of nearby Newport and Cardiff, Tredegar House is a truly iconic, seventeenth-century mansion. The house and its beautiful gardens were home to the Morgan family, who significantly shaped the history of south-east Wales. Despite claiming descent from Welsh princes, the Morgans were best known for their political influence and consorting with high society — and the walls of Tredegar witnessed it all. Today’s Tredegar House sits at the heart of the local community and allows visitors to immerse themselves in the fascinating stories that emanate from every corner of this magnificent estate. Check the latest restrictions and book your visit via: nationaltrust.org.uk/tredegar-house

5. Feel inspired within the serene grounds of Tintern Abbey Tintern Abbey is a national icon that takes its place among the most picturesque and best-known monastic sites in Britain. Standing in roofless splendour on the banks of the river Wye, Tintern was founded by Cistercian monks in 1131. Centuries later, the site became a place of inspiration and a symbol of romance for artists and poets at the end of the eighteenth century. To this day, the abbey still provides an inspirational canvas like no other, with modern visitors commenting on its beauty and overwhelming sense of tranquillity. Check the latest restrictions and book your visit via: cadwmembership.service.gov.wales/events

6. W alk the Offa’s Dyke Path (or at least some of it!) Celebrating its 50th anniversary this July, the Offa’s Dyke Path is the stuff of Welsh legends. It is perhaps fitting, therefore, that one of its finest trails incorporates White Castle, a most legendary medieval fortress. A five-mile, three-hour walk starting from St Teilo’s Church in Llantilio Crossenny, this particular journey — Route #20 — weaves its way past Hen Gwrt moated manor house, before joining part of the Three Castles Walk and rising to the grandest of finales: White Castle itself. Check the latest restrictions and plan your visit via: nationaltrail.co.uk/offasdyke

7. E xplore the hallowed halls of National Museum Cardiff Located in the heart of the city, National Museum Cardiff is home to some of the UK’s most awe-inspiring art and natural history. This majestic free-entry museum offers a veritable smorgasbord of activity. Come face-to-face with a T. rex, travel through space and time to see meteorites and a piece of space rock, explore the natural world of mammals and maritime creatures and admire some of the best Impressionist art outside of Paris. It’s bound to leave an impression on people of all ages and interests. Check the latest restrictions and book your visit via: museum.wales/cardiff

8. S oak up the beauty of Dyffryn Gardens If you’re a keen gardener, a trip to Dyffryn Gardens — named by the British Tourist Authority as one of the UK’s Top 100 gardens — will offer endless inspiration. The Dyffryn estate dates back to the seventh century, but the house and gardens weren’t built until 1906, using wealth created from the Industrial Revolution. With garden rooms, courts, lawns and water features, visitors to the gardens can enjoy a tranquil, all-year-round visual spectacle. Check the latest restrictions and book your visit via: nationaltrust.org.uk/dyffryn-gardens

9. Take a pit-stop at Black Rock picnic site Nothing says ‘the great Welsh outdoors’ quite like a picturesque picnic spot — and nothing says ‘picturesque picnic spot’ quite like the Black Rock picnic site. Situated on the Wales Coast Path in Portskewett, 8km (5 miles) south of Chepstow, this stunning spot offers truly unrivalled panoramic views of the Seven Estuary and over to England. What’s more, the recent addition of a large, wooden statue of a lave net fisherman — weighing an impressive 1.8 tonnes and standing 2.8m tall — celebrates the traditional fishing method used in the Severn Estuary for hundreds of years. Check the latest restrictions and book your visit via: walescoastpath.gov.uk

Top Dyffryn House and Gardens, Vale of Glamorgan.

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Middle The statue of a lave net fisherman at Black Rock picnic site, Monmouthshire. © Living Levels Partnership

Bottom A panoramic view of Black Rock picnic site looking out across the Severn Estuary.

History Hunters

History Hunters will be appearing in every issue of Heritage in Wales. We’ll help you enjoy Welsh history! You can cut out and keep the pages if you like!

Family Pages . Cate s i this ntures and l i d ve one ’m W ts of a ble I i ! s i n H lo se o on the ing yth We g . She’s r e ev ther ws ing! toge nd kno yth n a a ut abo

ng ell etti g sw s a y t a s alw s ju ut Wil’s , so it’ im o h t s e ape og scr re t e o t h n i ble! I’m rou that of t

This is Gelert. He loves digging up the past!

Come and join us on

our quest to rediscover history!

are Cate & l i W h... beac e h t on

A! HA HA H

hat? You w

s astle andc s h o O oring ooo b o s e ar

rt bury Gele We could

sty! Don’t be so na is We’ll use th old shell

Where Stone Age people buried their dead and held special

Let’s make a sand burial

ceremonies

chamber then...

HE RMIT CRAB

BONE

It’s in this comic*

Oi! This is my home

WW NNOOWW EE PPUUTT O D OUUR DEEAAD RD TTOO REESSTT IINN TTHHEE R

the I’ll build chamber

SPOO KY V O

ICE

And I’ll do the rock art

(SNIGGE R, SNIGGE R) INSIDE T HE BURIAL CHAMBER ..

ARK.. MIN D O O L RE! IT’S B TA HE ’I M OU T

LAT ER

CAT E, CAT E, The shell—it’s gone!

Y UM!

BONE! MOV ES!

T HEN... RUN AWAY WAHHHH!

CRAB VOICE

Not Bone, CRAB.

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e Ston the p u ! ken orld e wo it w r i We’v p s Age

Stupid boy

OUCH

Build your own burial chamber! The Neolithic or New Stone Age was a time when people learned how to grow and produce their own food, rather than hunting and gathering. In Wales, the Neolithic period was between 4000 and 2500 BC — that’s around 6,000 years ago! We don’t know a lot about it because it pre-dates the written word, but the most striking monuments left behind by Neolithic people are burial chambers. On Anglesey, we are lucky to have two ‘passage tombs’ — Bryn Celli Ddu and Barclodiad y Gawres. They are called passage tombs because they have a chamber (or room) at the end of a long passage. The chamber is covered by a large, round mound of earth. These tombs were not just built for the remains of the dead. They were also places where people gathered to hold meetings, dances and ceremonies. Now it’s your turn! Why not build a passage grave next time you’re at the beach!

Step 1

Start by drawing a circle in the sand. Then gather enough stones to build the inner chamber and passage.

Step 2

Build the walls of the inner chamber and passage.

Step 4

Now build a ring of kerb stones around the circle you first drew in the sand.

Step 5

Finally, build a mound of sand over the chamber and passage, right up to the edge of the kerb stones. Your burial chamber is complete!

Step 3

Carefully build a roof of flat stones over the chamber and passage walls. 23

Stone Age scribbles Rock art is a common feature found in many burial chambers. At Barclodiad y Gawres, five upright stones were carved with zig-zags, spirals and diamond shapes. A pattern stone has also been found at Bryn Celli Ddu, decorated with similar shapes. We don’t know the meaning of these engravings. Perhaps the symbols were a way of sending messages to the dead?

We’ve included an example of a carved stone. Why not have a go at colouring it in? You could even try and design your own stone using similar shapes and patterns. *Discover ancient Anglesey by downloading our colourful comics from the Cadw website - bit.ly/Cadw-comics

Prehistoric pots Amongst other things, archaeologists have found broken pottery and the occasional pot within and around Neolithic burial chambers. Pottery was often deliberately broken in the chambers, but we don’t know why. Try making your own pot using air-dry modelling clay. You could even use your own drawings of stone patterns to decorate your pot.

Materia

ls re

Instructions 1. Roll a piece of modelling clay (about the

size of a plum) into a ball and flatten it into a circle shape approx. 5mm thick. This will be the base of your pot.

2. Place the base on a square of cardboard

— this will stop your pot from sticking to the table.

3. Take another ball of clay and roll it into

a snake shape or ‘coil’, which should be slightly thicker than a pencil and at least the length of the circumference of your pot base.

4. Wind the coil around the base until the

circumference of the base has been covered. Cut away any excess length from the coil. Blend the joint on both the inside and outside of your pot.

quire Air-dry m odelling cla d y Clay tools Square of cardboard A smooth , flat surfac e.

5. Continue attaching coils, one on top of

the other. After each addition, blend the clay together on the inside of the pot, using either your fingers or a clay tool. Support the pot with your other hand to prevent it from becoming misshapen.

6. Once you are happy with the height of

your pot, blend the coils on the outside, as you did on the inside, using a little water if the clay starts to dry.

7. Once smooth, use pencils or clay tools to

create designs on the surface of your pot.

8. Place your pot on a

sunny windowsill to harden.

Last December we introduced you to our 15-Minute Heritage initiative, designed to encourage people to step outside and discover the heritage on their doorstep. Judith Alfrey, Head of Regeneration and Conservation at Cadw, explains how our own custodians have embraced the challenge of discovering their local history beyond the castle walls. STRAND TITLE

15-Minute Heritage Continuing the story...

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Right Heritage is also about people and their stories, as memorials old and new remind us. A bronze sculpture of comedian Tommy Cooper can be found in the place of his birth, near Caerphilly Castle.

While Cadw’s sites were closed, some of our custodians took the opportunity to explore their local heritage and add to the stories of place that are on our website. The custodians are, of course, lucky enough to have a castle or an abbey on their doorsteps. But, instead of looking at the places where they work, they have been looking out from them to find out what other heritage stories their local areas might hold.

Below Every structure tells a story: this former village shop was a drapers, a grocers and a post office before it became a house. Even petrol was once sold here.

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They have come up with some unexpected and surprising subjects, inviting us to take a closer look at what may, at first sight, appear mundane. Their stories remind us that everywhere has a heritage of its own, whether it’s a rural village or a twentieth-century housing estate. They’ve discovered the history that lies beneath modern roads and industrial estates; they’ve taken a forest walk through time or a short stroll around their neighbourhood, where every structure tells a story. They have also reminded us that heritage is personal: the heritage that they connect with and which means the most is often to be found in the stories on their own doorsteps or in places that are important to them. In every one of these stories, there is an invitation to take part in a short journey of discovery. It’s about looking out for the little things — the small details that tell a tale and lend distinctiveness; it’s about digging out information and the rewards of finding answers to questions; and it’s about finding new ways to share knowledge and enthusiasm. The heritage of a place doesn’t always depend on the survival of old sites and buildings. Places change but,

even when things have disappeared from view, there may still be a legacy in old photographs, memories, stories told or songs sung. Our ArcGIS StoryMaps, a new digital resource, use images, video and recordings to remind us that nothing is ever entirely lost. And heritage isn’t just about sites and buildings. It’s also about people and their stories. Exploring our ‘Caerphilly: Memorials and Parks’ StoryMap introduces people from the town who have left their mark on Wales. Exploring local heritage fosters a deeper understanding of our surroundings, but it also brings other benefits. The premise of our project is about spending time outdoors, getting fresh air and having a walk, but even armchair discovery can improve a sense of well-being. Telling our heritage stories is a way of connecting people and place, but also of bringing people together. Our custodians have enjoyed finding out more about their local heritage and hope you will do the same, whether following in their footsteps through the StoryMaps on our website — cadw.gov.wales/learn/15minute-heritage — or exploring the heritage on your own doorstep.

Here are some useful resources to begin your 15-Minute Heritage story: People's Collection Wales is full of fascinating photographs, documents, audio and video recordings and stories that link to the history, culture and people of Wales. peoplescollection.wales Archwilio provides public access to the historic environment records (HERs) for each local authority area in Wales. archwilio.org.uk/arch/ Coflein is an online catalogue of archaeology, buildings, industrial and maritime heritage in Wales. coflein.gov.uk Cof Cymru is an interactive map where you can find out about historic places near you. bit.ly/CofCymru

Top Even small structures repay a closer look. This lychgate, a covered gateway at the entrance to a churchyard, displays many examples of building craft, especially in its wonderful hand-cut slate roof.

Middle Heritage isn’t necessarily where you most expect to find it: this early twentieth-century housing estate has an interesting story to tell. Oakdale, nine miles north of Caerphilly, was a revolutionary model mining village, built between 1909 and 1924.

Bottom Look up and enjoy the detail, like this lovely Arts and Crafts window in a memorial hall.

Here are just some of the testimonials from our custodians highlighting their experiences of being involved in the 15-Minute Heritage project:

Stand with your camera ready, waiting for shadows to move across the landscape, for light to fall on the blades of a distant wind-turbine. Stand in a churchyard, waiting for a few seconds of sunlight to pick out a piece of stone carving.

I thought I knew the town where I live and work but exploring it for a theme for 15-Minute Heritage has really encouraged and inspired me to delve deeper.

This project has given me the opportunity to return to the stories and questions of my childhood.

Below The university town of Aberystwyth. 15-Minute Heritage is an invitation to explore — to spend time outdoors, get some fresh air and enjoy a walk.

The joy of finding out information that can be passed on to visitors, things you won’t find in a guidebook or on an audio guide, those golden nuggets that customers walk away with, something that cost nothing but can spark the imagination.

Knowledge: you find out facts not only on the subject you are looking at but other areas as well. Satisfaction: when you go looking for things and find them.

It’s made me study buildings much more closely, looking at details as well as taking a wider view.

Stand back and look at a building of some antiquity. Study the fabric. There may be something there that everyone else has overlooked.

By taking part in the 15-Minute Heritage project, I’ve come to appreciate that every community in Wales has its own unique heritage, from well-known areas to obscure locations.

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Conservation in action at two castles and a court...

Throughout the winter, work continued behind the scenes at Coity Castle so that conservation work could begin this spring. This involved the design and erection of specialist scaffolding, structural surveying of the site and an analysis of the existing mortars.

Top A panoramic view of the specialist scaffolding erected at Coity Castle, Bridgend. Bottom Work to transform a barn into a visitor centre at Tretower Court in Powys is ongoing.

Experienced stonemasons are currently removing vegetation and loose masonry from the castle walls. They are raking out defective mortar joints and repointing using a like-for-like mortar mix, as well as inserting structural anchors, lintels and replacing stone, where required. We hope to be able to offer members guided tours of the conservation in action at Coity during the summer. We will email you with more information about this as soon as possible. The project to convert a barn into a new visitor centre at Tretower Court is progressing well, with major external aspects of the works already complete. Work has included repointing the external stone walls of the building, incorporating new ridge roofing tiles, installing drainage and preparing the car park. We are currently looking for an experienced contractor to operate the café, allowing visitors to purchase hot and cold refreshments at Tretower for the first time. For further information, please email cadwcommercial@gov.wales. Progress on the King’s Gate project at Caernarfon Castle continues at a good pace. Scaffolding and branded hoardings have been installed on the front elevation of the castle, providing a unique opportunity to record the architectural details of this section of walling. Meanwhile, our new themed interpretive pieces are being created off-site ready for our big reveal later this year. Follow our social media and check out our website — cadw.gov.wales — for the latest announcements. 31

Introducing Caergwrle Castle Caergwrle Castle has officially joined Cadw

It is the 43rd castle to come into our care and the first castle we have acquired for 25 years. Dr Jon Berry, Cadw's Senior Inspector of Ancient Monuments and Archaeology, tells us more about Caergwrle’s historical significance as a castle built by a Welsh prince and its role in the Welsh wars of independence in the thirteenth century.

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Above The savage death of Dafydd ap Gruffudd was depicted in this early fourteenth-century manuscript illustration. (Bridgeman Images/© The British Library Board)

Almost 140 years since the start of the National Heritage Collection — a showcase of the best preserved and most typical examples of different monuments from different periods in state care — we are thrilled to announce that we have acquired the guardianship of Caergwrle Castle, near Hope, in Flintshire. Our involvement with this special place is very much a partnership venture and we look forward to working with Hope Community Council in maintaining and presenting this magnificent monument to visitors for years to come. Caergwrle Castle sits on an isolated and steep-sided hill in the Alyn valley, approximately halfway between Mold and Wrexham, overlooking the modern village of Caergwrle. It holds a unique place in Welsh history as the last masonry castle built by a native Welsh prince — albeit as a Marcher lord under the patronage of the Crown — during the legendary conflict between King Edward I and Llywelyn ap Gruffudd, Prince of Wales. Dafydd ap Gruffudd began building Caergwrle Castle in 1278 following the defeat of his brother and rival Llywelyn ap Gruffudd by Edward I in 1277. The king granted land and money to Dafydd to aid the castle’s construction and to preserve his loyalty to the Crown. Left An aerial view of Caergwrle Castle, Flintshire, showing the deep defensive ditch surrounding the castle. From the collections of the National Monuments Record of Wales: © Paul R. Davis

Work on Caergwrle continued until Easter 1282, when Dafydd changed sides and launched an attack on the English garrison at Hawarden Castle. King Edward’s conclusive reprisal against the Welsh culminated in the death of Llywelyn near Builth in December of that same year. As Llywelyn’s successor, Dafydd became Prince of Wales. But he was to lead the nation for just a few months before being captured and executed at Shrewsbury in October 1283. He was the first prominent person in British history to be hanged, drawn and quartered for the crime of high treason against the king. It was this final conflict that temporarily ended widespread Welsh resistance to English rule in north Wales. During King Edward I’s offensive, troops under Reginald de Grey arrived at Caergwrle in June 1282 to find the castle abandoned and partially dismantled by Dafydd’s forces. The King’s Works describe a Crown-led programme of rebuilding work extending over 19 weeks at a cost of £300. At one stage this work was supervised by Master James of St George, one of the greatest architects of the Middle Ages. The documentation recorded the details of expenditure for repairs to the castle in 1282–83, describing a workforce of ditch diggers, carpenters and masons employed to enhance the earthwork defences and repair the damage caused by Dafydd’s retreating troops. The King’s Works cited the presence of a gatehouse, chapel, bakehouse and an ‘old keep’, but these are hard to discern now. 33

Caergwrle was granted to Queen Eleanor in February 1283, but it burnt down six months later. It passed to Edward of Caernarfon, Prince of Wales (later King Edward II) and was granted to John of Cromwell in 1308 on condition that he repair it. By 1335, however, it was described as ruinous and uninhabitable. Its national role ceased; having been established under the very specific circumstances of Edward I’s campaigns in north Wales, it held little or no importance in later decades. The castle comprises a compact masonry inner ward surrounded by a deep defensive ditch which occupies the south-west corner of a large, outer enclosure. The relationship between the two enclosures is unclear, but radiocarbon dating suggests an earlier origin for the outer enclosure, which may well have been used in the early medieval period too. The architectural and defensive features of Caergwrle Castle reflect Dafydd’s divided loyalties, with English elements incorporated into a basically Welsh pattern. Some of these features are unique and give us a valuable insight into contrasting medieval defensive and domestic practices as well as construction techniques. Typical English or Marcher architectural characteristics at Caergwrle include the use of high-quality masonry with fine dressed stone and integrated mural chambers and latrines; defensive attributes include deep defensive ditches, strong walls with wellcoursed stonework and regularly spaced D-shaped angle towers.

North Tower

N Site of

Gate

Ditch

Buttress

Standing Walls Foundations Conjecture

Ditch

East Tower Outcrop

Site of

South Tower

Above A view of Caergwrle Castle from the north-west, by Samuel and Nathaniel Buck in 1742. (By permission of Llyfrgell Genedlaethol Cymru/National Library of Wales) Right A ground plan of Caergwrle Castle.

Ditch

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0 0

50 10

Feet 20

Metres

Above A recent view of the north tower and east curtain wall from the north-east.

Characteristics attributed to Welsh architectural traditions include the prominent hilltop location and the unusual plans of the north and east D-shaped towers; they do not project uniformly beyond the curtain wall. It is also worth noting that the wooden corbel arrangement for the first-floor fireplace in the north tower is thought to be unique. Caergwrle is one of the most thoroughly investigated and understood Welsh-built castles, ranking alongside Dolforwyn and Dryslwyn, thanks to John Manley’s archaeological excavations during 1988–91. The excavations provided evidence of the castle’s layout, construction, development, function and subsequently its decay and destruction. While much is known, there is still a lot to discover and the scheduled monument has significant archaeological potential. Cadw’s acquisition of the guardianship of Caergwrle will ensure that the castle’s fabric is preserved and secured for the benefit and enjoyment of this and future generations.

Councillor Christine Cunnah of Hope Community Council said:

Hope Community Council is absolutely delighted to be in partnership with Cadw, which will ensure that our unique historical site of Caergwrle Castle is protected for future generations to enjoy. Together, we will aim to provide a special place for the local community and visitors.

35 35

Below Trefignath Burial Chamber, Anglesey. The impressive portal stones mark the entrance to the third and last chamber at this ancient site.

A spotlight on

Trefignath Burial Chamber Nestling in a field just outside Holyhead, Trefignath Burial Chamber appears to be a single, ruinous structure — but it is actually a sequence of three distinct tombs raised one after the other.

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While the tombs were disturbed in the eighteenth century, uncovering pottery and human bones, a full excavation during the late 1970s revealed stone and flint implements and further pottery dating from the Neolithic period beneath the tombs themselves. Based on these discoveries, it is likely that people had been in the area before the construction of the first tomb, which was possibly raised around 3750–3500 BC.

The earliest chamber is a simple box structure with three walls still standing, surrounded by a cairn of boulders. Alongside it is the now-collapsed central chamber with only two stones still upright; its original roof, or capstone, lies on the ground alongside. The two chambers were likely to have been covered together by a mound, retained by a drystone wall. The third chamber has survived more or less in its original form, with two capstones supported by five uprights — aided by a modern brick pillar — and two

tall portal stones marking the entrance. The mound covering the other chambers would have been extended to cover this one (though possibly not the portal stones) creating a truly impressive monument. The evidence uncovered in the 1970s suggests that the chambers were not fully closed until after 2250 BC, meaning that this once-grand structure was in use for as many as 1,500 years. While we can never know anything of the ceremonies that took place here, its long use demonstrates how important Trefignath must have been to the communities that built it.

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Below Maen y Bardd, overlooking the Conwy valley from the Carneddau mountains, is an early Neolithic burial chamber and would have held the bones of many people. © Aneurin Phillips

Retelling the mountains’ story A five-year programme of archaeological, environmental and cultural work is redefining the story of some of Wales’ most majestic mountains and placing thousands of years of human history back at the heart of the landscape. 38

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For us today, the high ridges of the Carneddau mountains are amongst the most forbidding in Wales; apart from hillwalkers and the occasional farmer, they seem almost like wildernesses, snowbound in parts of winter, windswept the year round. For millennia, though, the story was very different. These peaks and slopes — second in altitude only to the Yr Wyddfa (Snowdon) massif — were busy places of ceremony and remembrance, of settlements and farming, even of industry. This past and the far more diverse environment that went with it are being brought to life again in a wide-ranging scheme to celebrate the Carneddau’s natural life, history and culture and to enrich their communities’ future. While prehistoric and medieval sites are being cleared of vegetation and examined, local people are remembering the old way of life and the place names that tell the story of the mountains and their inhabitants. The Carneddau Landscape Partnership is a five-year, £4 million scheme, with the National Lottery Heritage Fund providing £1.7 million of funding. It has 23 partners, led by the Snowdonia National Park Authority, with the National Trust, Cadw, Gwynedd Archaeological Trust and Penmaenmawr Museum also involved in the historic environment strands. On a timeline of around 6,000 years, the first strand is at the far north edge of the range, above the Victorian seaside resorts of Llanfairfechan and Penmaenmawr and near their dramatic granite quarries. These cliffs were valuable sources for Neolithic axes. Moving forward to 4,000 years ago and inland, about 150 Bronze Age cairns have been identified on the range, whose name — Carneddau — is Welsh for cairns. One of the Partnership’s 24 individual projects aims at clearing vegetation and a closer examination of some of these sites.

Cadw are proud to be an active partner in this landscape project that integrates historic and natural environment objectives. The project provides a unique opportunity for local communities to actively engage with their heritage and for us all to learn more about this spectacular and often overlooked landscape. Ian Halfpenny Cadw Inspector of Ancient Monuments

Top Evening light on a distinctive skyline of the western Carneddau, above Bethesda, seen from the lower slopes of Carnedd Dafydd. © John G. Roberts Above The project is helping local communities to capture memories of farming in the Carneddau. © Carneddau Landscape Partnership

Later, from around 2,500 years ago up to the end of the Roman period and beyond, there is evidence of settlements and field systems. There are medieval remains too and the story continues into the modern era with small-scale slate quarrying, complex sheepfolds and even some Second World War anti-invasion defences. Equally rich is the wider cultural history, encapsulated in place names and memories. Involving people and communities underlies all the Partnership’s work; they will be at the heart of projects to capture oral history and to record and preserve historic names. These thousands of years of human history are intimately linked to the environment and landscape, the other drivers of the Partnership’s work. The axe quarrying sites are there because of geology; the cairns were symbolically placed on the highest summits; farming and community life followed the dictates of the environment while also profoundly changing it. Some of these changes can be captured in place names; the name of a patch of land, perhaps, might refer to some ancient use or to the colour of lost vegetation. ‘This is the intangible history,’ says Jess John from the Snowdonia National Park Authority, as Cultural Heritage Project Officer leading on oral history and place names. ‘We will be collecting names that may not be on documents but remain in the memories of local families — buildings, paths, streams or even stones and boulders. Some features have been lost and the only reminder is the name. This is just as important as the visible history to say who we are.’ As with the oral history — where the aim is to record changes in agriculture and community within living memory — pandemic restrictions have hampered the early work. But new ideas have developed; training schoolchildren to interview their grandparents for instance. As summer comes, it will be possible to chat in the open air, even talking while walking the fields. Recording place names also calls for face-to-face sessions. ‘The more people talk to each other, the more they remember,’ says Jess. And having physical maps laid out on a table makes it far easier to be accurate. 40

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All the oral history volunteers will be trained in interviewing techniques, transcribing and managing data and the Partnership is working with Cymdeithas Enwau Lleoedd Cymru (the Welsh Place-Name Society) with courses on how to find names, how to use sources and analyse their contents. Community Engagement Officer, Beca Roberts is gearing up for an explosion of activity as pandemic rules relax. A new website is underway, a community grants scheme has already been launched — to finance local initiatives that reflect the Partnership’s remit — and by June, she hopes to be working hands-on with schools and societies on some of the physical work. A dig at Llanfairfechan involving volunteers and primary schools was postponed but will soon start, working on trial (or test) pits on the mountainside above the village, where people came for material for axes in the Neolithic period. The trials will inform a later project to dig trenches at the most promising sites. ‘Generations of people returned each summer, to gather the stone and then work it into axes,’ says archaeologist John G. Roberts from Snowdonia National Park. ‘We know of three or four sources of this stone, but we don’t know very much about where the people lived or where they worked the stone.’ About a third of the Partnership area is in the care of the National Trust and its archaeologist, Kathy Laws, explains how local people will help in clearing vegetation from some of the scheduled monuments, improving their condition and possibly uncovering new features.

Kathy Laws National Trust

Students recording a Second World War pillbox at Llyn Ogwen as part of a Welsh Baccalaureate project. © Snowdonia National Park Authority

Landscape features, place names and memories were discussed in public consultation sessions, including this one in Penmaenmawr. © Snowdonia National Park Authority

Garreg Fawr landscape above Llanfairfechan. Early settlements and fields underlie today's walls and fences. © Snowdonia National Park Authority

The open and rugged landscape of Nant y Benglog looking towards Tryfan and Pen Yr Ole Wen. © Snowdonia National Park Authority

A traditional multi-cellular sheepfold, characteristic of the Carneddau's open mountain-land. © Snowdonia National Park Authority

Volunteers cutting back gorse at an Iron Age enclosure on Moel Faban, Bethesda. © Snowdonia National Park Authority

It’s a chance to take stock of the historical and archaeological assets. This is a very large area and it’s quite difficult to get to some sites. They’re long overdue a look so we can build on what we know about them.

Above These monumental Bronze Age cairns at Carnedd Dafydd's peak and on the saddle leading towards Pen yr Ole Wen are visible from a distance in the valleys below them. © John G. Roberts

The Carneddau is a varied and special landscape. The region is home to rare plants and animals, as well as vulnerable habitats such as montane heath — Wales’ ‘tundra’. It has also been shaped by thousands of years of human use. Sadly, climate change, atmospheric pollution, land-use patterns, invasive species and human pressure are affecting the vulnerable landscapes of ffridd and mountain that are rich in historic sites and biodiversity. The Partnership will protect the cultural and natural heritage of the Carneddau by encouraging sustainable land use that safeguards rare habitats and species, archaeological remains and the cultural connections and traditions of the mountains. Marian Pye Project Manager for the Partnership 42

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Another important category of sites dates from the Bronze Age about 4,000 years ago. John Roberts compares the cairns on the highest peaks to ceremonial sites in places like Mongolia and Nepal. They would have been symbolically important, he says, and imagines them decorated with colourful banners and animal bones. ‘They were in prominent places, with distant views and visible from afar. People possibly visited them to celebrate the spirits of ancestors; more cenotaphs than burial places. Part of the project’s aim is to make people aware of this valuable archaeology. Many people go walking in the mountains but don’t realise their significance. People tend to move stones to create shelters and new cairns.’ Another modern misconception, says John Roberts, is to think that these mountains were empty and inaccessible. In fact, before the need to travel to markets or other centres, people lived self-sufficiently here in the high valleys and mid-slopes. While lowland valleys were often densely wooded and impassable, the ridges were not obstacles but means of travel and communication. The Partnership will concentrate on the features where most work is needed or those under threat, like some of the medieval summer farming settlements that are being swallowed by gorse. For all these sites and the later evidence of settlements and field systems, the latest lidar technology will be vital, capturing detailed measurements from the air to make 3D images of what lies beneath the bracken, allowing large‑scale mapping and analysis of how different features developed and their relationship to one another. In one place, for instance, a Roman road slices through hut circle settlements — almost a precursor, says John Roberts, of the modern A55 expressway that cuts through Llanfairfechan and Penmaenmawr. Volunteers will be part of the analysis, learning new skills and techniques, and helping to create relief maps explaining how the region worked. Beca Roberts, whose family have lived in the Ogwen valley underneath the Carneddau for generations, hopes to enthuse other people with her love of the area. ‘The Carneddau mean a lot to me. The mountains brought me back home after years away. I want other people to feel the same, to understand the history and how it is intertwined with the mountains, the slopes and their communities.’

Whether you dream of a fairy-tale castle, Elizabethan town house or medieval hall for your wedding, we have the magical venue to help create your unforgettable day. We currently have three* incredible places across Wales for you to take your vows.

Tretower Court and Castle — a restored fifteenth-century medieval house overlooked by a twelfth-century castle.

Castell Coch — Just 5 miles from Cardiff, the fairy-tale castle nestled in a wooded valley setting is a prominent landmark in south Wales.

We are currently offering venue hire for ceremonies only and all bookings are subject to Welsh Government Covid guidelines. Bookings can be taken up to 13 months in advance. Simply contact our professional team at each site to plan your perfect day: CastellCoch@gov.wales TretowerCourt@gov.wales PlasMawr@gov.wales Alternatively, submit an expression of interest via the online form on our website — cadw.gov.wales/visit/venue-hire/weddings-and-blessings

Plas Mawr — Described as the finest surviving Elizabethan town house in Britain, located in the heart of Conwy.

Wedding blessings and photography Cadw also has a vast collection of sites in stunning locations that can be hired for wedding blessings and photography for any occasion. Choose from castles, abbeys or chapels for the perfect backdrop. Contact cadwcommercial@gov.wales or tel. 03000 257 182 for more information.

cadw.gov.wales *Caerphilly Castle is undergoing conservation work so is not available for weddings until August 2023.

Members' area How to reserve and manage your site entry tickets Due to Covid regulations, you will need to reserve your Cadw member site entry tickets on our website: cadwmembership.service. gov.wales/events Alternatively, you can contact our bilingual booking service between 10am and 4pm, Monday– Sunday via telephone: 03000 252239 or email: cadw@pti.cymru. You can manage your site entry ticket reservations and your membership account within the MyCadw area of our website. If you would like to cancel your reserved site entry tickets, you can do this by logging into your MyCadw account. Whilst we are operating at a significantly reduced capacity across our sites, this will allow us to offer these visitor spaces for others to enjoy.

Above A visitor getting his ticket scanned via his mobile phone on entry to a Cadw site.

To activate your MyCadw account: 1. 2. 3. 4.

Visit cadwmembership.service.gov.wales/my-cadw/ Select ‘Not yet online activated?’ Enter the details required, including your membership number (excluding any letters) Submit and activate your account.

As soon as your account is activated, you can: • Update your membership details yourself (i.e. email address, postal address and telephone number) • Renew or edit your membership subscription at any time • View your entire Cadw membership history — including a record of all product, event and site entry ticket purchases to date.

To cancel reserved tickets: 1. 2. 3. 4.

Log into your MyCadw account Go to Shop Orders Click Remove next to your reserved tickets Your tickets will then be released for other people.

If you experience any issues activating your account, please call our membership team on 0800 0743121 who will be happy to help. 44

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A love song for Wales

(with apologies to Robert Browning) Oh, to visit Wales, now that Spring is almost here, To walk along the Pembroke coast or down Llandudno’s pier; To see the Brecon Beacons in brilliant winter light, Or the misty estuary at Laugharne, where Dylan used to write. I want to stroll round Cardiff Bay where Scott began his quest, Drink at the Norwegian Church, where Roald Dahl was blessed. I long to gaze from Cadair’s height or Carreg Cennan’s walls, And walk from Betws-y-Coed to see the Conwy Falls. I’d like to see Penarth again, where my Dad went to school, And I want to cross the Mawddach on the bridge at Penmaenpool. From Worm’s Head to Tywyn Sands, Mwnt to Hay on Wye, This magic princedom has my heart, and will have ‘til I die.

Clare Llewellyn West January 2021

Right Carreg Cennen Castle, Carmarthenshire.

How history feels We know our members feel passionately about Wales’ heritage and never more so than during 2020 when we were unable to physically connect with our unique heritage sites. Cadw member Clare Llewellyn West put pen to paper and shared her reflections on how the landscape and history of Wales gave her a sense of place and belonging. Our thanks to Clare for sending in her wonderful poem. We’d love to know more about your summer 2021 adventures. Whether it’s taking a selfie in front of the oldest castle doors in Britain at Chepstow or snapping the view from the battlements of Caernarfon Castle, remember to tag us in your social media posts and join the growing community of Cadw historic explorers. Alternatively, email us your photographs, stories, poems and drawings of your historic excursions throughout Wales and you might just see them featured in the next edition of Heritage in Wales!* Cadw Wales

With more than 100 Cadw sites now re-opened, there’s plenty to see, but here are a few ideas to get you started: • If you’re looking for literary inspiration, walk in the footsteps of one of Wales’ greatest poets, Dylan Thomas, and visit Laugharne Castle — cadw. gov.wales/inspiration-itinerary • If you’re a family ready for castle capers, check out our '10 Top Castles for Kids' list, a veritable who’s who? of famous Welsh fortresses! — cadw.gov.wales/visit/ days-out/10-top-castles-kids • Can’t decide on a time-period or theme? No problem! Take a look at our Wales history map to explore everything from the castles of Edward I to the World Heritage Site of Blaenavon, the legacy of our industrial past — cadw.gov.wales/visit/ best-history/wales-history-map Please do remember to check the Cadw website for up-to-date information on site opening and restricted access and pre-book your tickets online in advance of your visit.

@CadwWales

CadwCymruWales Above Laugharne Castle, Carmarthenshire.

*E mail cadwmarketing@gov.wales with memories of your days out, remembering to include your name and address. 45

MEMBERS' AREA

Crossword competition

As a result of the coronavirus pandemic, we cannot accept entries by post. We are sorry for any inconvenience this may cause. Alternatively, you can take a photo with your phone or tablet and email it to cadwmarketing@gov.wales with ‘Crossword competition’ in the subject line. If you submit an image of a completed crossword by email, the crossword must be fully legible. The closing date for the competition is 30 September 2021.

Terms & Conditions The prize is a Panasonic Lumix DMC-TZ90 camera. The prize has no cash value or alternative and is non-transferable. By participating in the competition, entrants are agreeing to receive email newsletters from Cadw until such time as they unsubscribe. The competition is not open to employees of Cadw or Equinox or members of their families.

H E R I TAG E I N WA L E S

Across 4

hich African mountain is Shane Williams considering W tackling next year? (11)

Which of our castles is Shane Williams’s favourite? (7)

8 Which castle was the last masonry castle to be built by a native Welsh prince? (9) 9 Which castle was picked by our visitors to feature on the cover of the 2022 Cadw calendar? (9) 11 You can virtually tour four prehistoric sites — from which era? (9) 14 The warrior princess who fought the Normans at Kidwelly. (9) 15 Architectural features that survive in Caerphilly Castle’s great hall to show how opulent it once was. (7) 17 Which type of bird can be seen on Jasper Tudor’s coat of arms? (7) 18 Snowdonia National Park Authority is aiming to record vernacular buildings and ruins in which part of Gwynedd? (7) 19 What type of net fishing is commemorated at Black Rock picnic site? (4)

Down 1

ary Jones walked 26 miles bare‑foot to purchase M a copy of which book? (5)

2 The latest 15-Minute Heritage StoryMap covers which town in south Wales? (10) 3 Which online resource provides historic environment records for every local authority in Wales? (9) 5 What new facility will be added to Caerphilly Castle as part of its development project? (4) 7

Which castle did Dafydd ap Gruffudd attack in 1282? (8)

8 The history of which mountain range is being explored as part of a major landscape project? (9)

Win a Panasonic Lumix DMC-TZ90 camera, courtesy of Cadw! Looking forward to returning to our sites? Carry this small, but powerful, compact camera with you to capture those memories! Packed full of features, including a massive 30x optical zoom, high-speed focusing, excellent performance in low light and integrated electronic stabilisation for photos and video, this is your perfect pocket companion for your future historical explorations. You can find all the answers in this edition of Heritage in Wales — good luck!

10 Cairns on some of Wales’ highest peaks have been compared to ceremonial sites in which Himalayan country? (5) 12 Llansteffan Castle overlooks the estuary of which river? (4)

Winner’s announcement

13 Which Elizabethan home can you now tour virtually? (4,4)

Congratulations go to… Mark Summerland from Haverfordwest, who completed issue 71’s Cadw crossword correctly and won a luxury hamper from Sloane Home.

16 Walking Route 20 starts from which saint’s church in Llantilio Crossenny? (5)

MEMBERS' AREA

Share your historic what, where and when on social media... Chepstow Castle; sarahcK781SR

TripAdvisor

Great castle visit. Lovely walk round this big castle. Covid compliant. Lots of views from castle walls. Friendly staff and parking close by.

Blaenavon Ironworks; SpotBoy Fantastic trip through time. Travelled to Blaenavon in a snow storm… but it was definitely worth it! Friendly, helpful staff. We enjoyed the site and to get a feel for what it might have been like for the poor men that worked in this industry 200+ years ago. The cottages were closed due to Covid19 restrictions but that didn’t detract from the enjoyment we got.

Twitter

Chepstow Castle; Francesca So beautiful, kids loved it. We had a blast as a family in Chepstow, the castle is gorgeous and so easy to book in. The view from the castle is so beautiful!

Instagram

Facebook

Layla Lucas @laylalucas

Emma Greig

Oneman_onevan_onelabradoodle

We had an amazing afternoon exploring Carreg Cennan Castle today, finally got to use our @cadwwales membership. It was really windy but we found a sheltered spot for a picnic. It felt like an actual normal day out.

Castell Coch/Fairy Castle/ Castle Coch/Red Castle, my favourite childhood place. Had a wonderful day the other day remembering… We all have our own memories and names for it.

Lucy enjoyed Caerphilly Castle as much as me! She was desperate to go for a swim in the moat.

MaysamAdventures @ MaysamAdventur1

Alison Gallivan

We visited #CastleCoch today, a @ cadwwales site. First day of reopening, we’ve been waiting for this and it did not disappoint! Absolutely incredible!

So glad … after over a year to see these wonderful places re-open. I cannot wait to start visiting these places. Good luck.

Mads @MadsLlyr1994 Visited Laugharne Castle yesterday, and then on to Pendine sands. Awesome places, return trips definitely needed. Lovely to be able to do this again.Mat Batterbee @ Another lovely family day out staying local checking out Rhuddlan Castle. 48

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Castell Coch, Cardiff.

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16

Holyhead Mountain Hut Group Caer y Twr ˆ Hillfort Caer Gybi Roman Fortlet Penrhos Feilw Standing Stones Tyˆ Mawr Standing Stone Trefignath Burial Chamber Tregwehelydd Standing Stone Presaddfed Burial Chamber Tyˆ Newydd Burial Chamber Barclodiad y Gawres Burial Chamber Din Dryfol Burial Chamber Bodowyr Burial Chamber Castell Bryn Gwyn Caer Lêb Bryn Celli Ddu Burial Chamber Hafoty Medieval House

Capel Lligwy Lligwy Burial Chamber Din Lligwy Penmon Priory Maen Achwyfan 2 Hut Group and St Seiriol’s Well 3 Cross 7 Penmon Cross Conwy Castle Basingwerk and Dovecot and Town Walls ISLE OF 8 4 Abbey 5 16 ANGLESEY Rhuddlan Castle Plas 9 and Twthill 6 Flint Castle 11 15 Mawr Beaumaris St Winifred’s Chapel 14 Castle and Holy Well 10 Denbigh Friary, Leicester’s Church 12 Ewloe and St Hilary’s Chapel FLINTSHIRE Castle 13 Segontium CONWY Caernarfon Castle Denbigh Castle Roman Fort Caergwrle and Town Walls Gwydir Uchaf and Town Walls Castle Chapel DENBIGHSHIRE Dolbadarn Derwen Churchyard Capel Garmon Cae’r Gors Castle Cross Burial Chamber Eliseg’s Dolwyddelan Pillar Castle Rug Chapel St Cybi’s WREXHAM Well Llangar Criccieth Valle Crucis Abbey Old Parish Church Castle Penarth Fawr GWYNEDD Medieval House Harlech Castle Dyffryn Ardudwy Burial Chamber Cymer Abbey

Prehistoric site

Pont Minllyn

Roman site Castell y Bere

Castle, historic house, palace

Montgomery Castle

Religious site Historic industrial site

Dolforwyn Castle

Dyfi Furnace

Bryntail Lead Mine

Other historic site

0 Kilometres

15 10

0 Miles

POWYS

Strata Florida Abbey

CEREDIGION

St Dogmaels Abbey Cilgerran Castle Carreg Coetan Arthur Burial Chamber St Davids Bishop’s Palace St Non’s Chapel

Dryslwyn Castle CARMARTHENSHIRE

PEMBROKESHIRE Wiston Castle Llawhaden Castle

Carreg Cennen Castle

Llanthony Priory

N FAE TOR

FIL YD

NEATH PORT TALBOT

Hen Gwrt Moated Site Monmouth Castle Blaenavon Raglan Ironworks Castle MONMOUTHSHIRE Tintern Abbey Chepstow Castle and Port Wall CAERPHILLY Caerleon 20 Roman Fortress 19 U NA T AE EN BL GW

Kidwelly Castle

Heritage Cottage RHONDDA Swansea Castle SWANSEA CYNON TAF Parc le Breos Weobley Castle BRIDGEND Caerphilly Castle Burial Chamber Margam Castell Coch Stones Museum Coity Castle Oxwich Castle CARDIFF Newcastle (Bridgend) Tinkinswood St Quentin’s Burial Chamber Castle Ogmore Ewenny Castle Priory St Lythans Old Beaupre Castle Burial Chamber

So many Cadw sites waiting to be discovered...

Loughor Castle

Grosmont Castle Skenfrith Castle White Castle

Tretower Castle and Court

Llansteffan Laugharne Castle Castle

Carew Cross Carswell Medieval House Lamphey Bishop’s Palace

Dinefwr Castle

Bronllys Castle Brecon Gaer Roman Fort

T YR RTH ME

Haverfordwest Priory

Talley Abbey

Pentre Ifan Burial Chamber

Neath Abbey

NEWPORT

18 17

Newport Castle 17 Caerwent Roman Town 18 Runston Chapel 19 Chepstow Bulwarks Camp 20 Llanmelin Wood Hillfort

THE VALE OF GLAMORGAN

Views expressed in Heritage in Wales are not necessarily the views of Cadw. Cadw does not necessarily endorse goods or services advertised in this magazine.

Editorial enquiries to: Heritage in Wales, Cadw, Ty Afon, Bedwas Road, Bedwas, Caerphilly, CF83 8WT. Tel: 0300 0256000 Email: cadw@gov.wales www.cadw.gov.wales

This publication is also available in Welsh under the title Etifeddiaeth y Cymry. For all Cadw membership enquiries please telephone 0800 074 3121.

The magazine content was correct at the time of going to print.

Image: Pentre Ifan Burial Chamber, Pembrokeshire.

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ISSUE 72