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42 Travel makes one modest, you see what tiny place you occupy in the world. —Gustave Flaubert
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82 CONTENTS 08 INTRODUCTION
48 BIG AMBITION, BIG PRESSURE
12 ITEMS YOU DON’T NEED
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18 TOP 5 TIPS FOR SOUTH EAST ASIA
68 ADVENTURE TRAVEL IN THAILAND
24 FLYING IN SOUTH EAST ASIA
73 MYTHS ABOUT TRAVELING IN THAILAND
32 TOP EXPERIENCES IN JAPAN
82 BACKPACK IN CHINA
36 BACKPACKING THROUGH JAPAN
93 10 DAYS IN YUNNAN
42 SOUTH KOREA
98 THIS MONTH IN TAIWAN
THAILAND TRAVEL TIPS
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ASIA OFFERS VERY DIVERSE TRAVEL OPTIONS
WELCOME TO ASIA By Jonathan Chait
Asia offers very diverse travel options. There are ultra modern, largely democratic countries like Japan and the East Asian Tigers of Singapore, Hong Kong, Taiwan and South Korea. Asia is too massive and diverse to conceptualize as a single digestible travel “destination”. Even defining the borders of this continent is difficult from the mountains around the Black Sea in the west, to the snow fields of Siberia in the east, there are more people and cities in Asia than outside of it. Asia’s and the world’s highest point is Mount Everest, along the border of China and Nepal, which rises to 8,848 m (29,028 ft) above sea level. Its lowest point is the Dead Sea, located at the meeting points of Israel, the Palestinian Territories, and Jordan, whose surface is 400 m (1,312 ft) below sea level. Asia’s longest river is the Yangtze, which runs 6,300 km (3,915 miles) through China, from all the way from the high Tibetan Plateau to Shanghai. Its largest lake is the 386,400 sq km (149,200 square mile) Caspian Sea, which is surrounded by several Central Asian nations. Asia is bounded by the Pacific Ocean to the east, by Australia to the southeast, and by the Indian Ocean to the south. It is bordered by the Red Sea to the southwest, by Europe and the Urals to the west, and by the Arctic Ocean to the north. Travel options range widely, from the desert ruins and modern mega-malls of the Middle East to the magnificent ancient monuments in South Asia, and from the beach bungalows and jungle treks of Southeast Asia to the mega-cities and technology capitals of East Asia. Find out more about regions, destinations, and itineraries below. Asia offers very diverse travel options. There are ultra modern, largely democratic countries like Japan and the East Asian Tigers (regions and countries) of Singapore, Hong Kong, Taiwan and South Korea which are very prosperous and in
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I recently shared my top 10 must haves for international travel. In that post, I mentioned that I’d follow it up with a list of items that you might think you need to pack, but aren’t worth the space they take up in your suitcase.
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TRAVELER’S CHECKS.Traveler’s checks used to make it easy to securely travel with a large amount of money. But using traveler’s checks today can be a big, expensive hassle. Even if you don’t pay anything to get them issued, you will definitely pay a hefty service fee when you cash them. Since many establishments no longer want to deal with travelers checks, you may have to fit finding a bank into your itinerary in order to cash them. Stick with your credit/ debit card and cash instead.
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DEVICES THAT KEEP YOU CONNECTED TO WORK. This is a vacation you’re taking, isn’t it? You’ve worked hard and deserve some time off, so make sure you unplug enough to actually enjoy yourself. If possible, leave the work phone and laptop behind, with instructions to reach you only in an emergency. Give yourself permission to enjoy some much-needed time with loved ones or even all alone.
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SNACKS. If you have dietary restrictions, bringing snacks is a great way to ensure there are some foods you know you can enjoy and eat safely. If not, keep the amount
ITEMS YOU DON’T NEED WHEN YOU TRAVEL INTERNATIONALLY by: Peggy Goldman
of snacks you bring to a bare minimum. Instead, try snacking like the locals, which will save you plenty of money as well as room in your luggage. And who knows, you may discover an amazing treat along the way. And not to worry if you aren’t up for the local treats. I’ve found potato chips, peanuts, Oreo cookies and plenty of other US-branded snack foods in the most remote corners of the earth.
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SHAMPOO AND SOAP. Every hotel on your itinerary will have these available for you in your room. If not (hard to imagine), it’s easier to pop down to a corner store and pick some up then hefting your own along. Not every hotel will offer conditioner as an amenity, though. I pack a travel-size bottle of conditioner with me, and I’ve never run out, even washing my hair daily.
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HAIR DRYER. Most women and many men rely on their hairdryers on a daily basis, but there’s no reason to pack a full-size dryer in your luggage. Every hotel in today’s world will provide you with a hairdryer. Even if you don’t find one in your room you’ll be able to borrow one from the front desk. Don’t count on a diffuser, though. If you need one, carry a mesh sack, available in any store that sells beauty supplies, that fits over the top of every dryer.
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NEW SHOES. A vacation is no time to break in a new pair of shoes. Instead pack a pair of extremely comfortable walking shoes that you know you can wear to explore your destination pain-free. Unless you know you’re going to need to get very dressed up at some point, try and make due with an extra pair of shoes that can do double duty, for com-
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ADVENTURE TRAVEL IN THAILAND By Nomadic Matt
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“ Thailand is a wondrous kingdom, featuring Buddhist temples, exotic wildlife, and spectacular islands. Along with a fascinating history and a unique culture that includes delectable Thai food and massage, Thailand features a modern capital city, and friendly people who epitomize Thailand’s “land of smiles” reputation.
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Khao Sok National Park Full Moon Party Khao Yai National Park
It could be argued that, in Thailand, many foreigners have come and gone, and the number of people who are considered to be Thai have traveled abroad in a great number. —Bhumibol Adulyadej
Explore Bangkok
Relax on Tropical Islands
The heart of Thailand, this crazy city is a must-see. Most travelers don’t like it right away but it grows on you. Explore temples, palaces, amazing markets, shops, one of the craziest nightlife scenes in the world, and of course, amazing Thai food. At first, I didn’t like this place but it grew on me. Now, I love this city and return frequently.
Thailand has a million and one beautiful tropical islands. Some are overdeveloped, while others only have a single bungalow on them. You’ll find everything here. Some of the best islands here are: Ko Samet, Ko Taruato, Ko Lanta, Ko Chang, Ko Tao, Ko Jum, the Similian Islands, and Ko Samui.
Find Adventure Around Chiang Mai
If you like partying, there’s no better party in the world than the famous Full Moon Party. It’s 20,000 people partying until sunrise on a beach on Haat Rin, Koh Phangan. Sure, it is super touristy but that doesn’t mean it’s not a lot of fun and it’s as much a part of Thailand as anything else.
Chiang Mai is an old city ringed with temples and surrounded by jungle. It’s a good launching pad for jungle treks into the area; there is a nearby elephant sanctuary, and the Chiang Mai night market is a place for some of the best deals in the country.
Hike in Khao Yai National Park Located three hours north of Bangkok, this park is an excellent place to hike, swim, and find wild elephants. It’s not very crowded so you’ll have the jungle to yourself. Stay at the Greenleaf Guesthouse for the best tour/accommodation deals in the area.
Visit Khao Sok National Park Located down south, this is considered one of the best parks in the world and the best in Thailand. You’ll find caves, jungles, rivers, lakes, and tall limestone kyrsts here. It’s not a common stop but if you are in Thailand for awhile, you should make the effort to go.
Hop the Ancient Capitals Between Chiang Mai and Bangkok are Thailand’s three ancient capitals: Sukhothai, Lopburi, and Ayutthaya. Visiting them on your way north is a unique way to head from Bangkok to Chiang Mai. You’ll get to learn about ancient Thailand and see rural life at its best. My favorite capital is Ayutthaya.
Partake in the Full Moon Party
Go Jungle Trekking There is some great jungle trekking in northern Thailand. Be sure to go on a multi-day hike. The shorter hikes aren’t as good and the hill tribes you visit are like visiting Disney world. The biggest departure points are Chiang Mai and Chiang Rai.
Go Scuba Diving Scuba diving here is a popular activity. The cheapest place to learn is on the island of Kao Tao, which caters specifically for dive trips. Most people don’t go there if they aren’t diving. While you can dive all over the country, Ko Lanta, the Surin Islands, and the Similian Islands offer the best diving.
Learn to Cook Thai food is one of the most delicious types of food in the world and its relatively easy to cook. All over the country you’ll find places to teach you, though the best are in Chiang Mai and Bangkok. Even if you don’t plan to cook back home, at least you get to spend a day making and eating food. • Get off the Beaten Path - If you really want to see
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JAPAN The Japanese are a warm and welcoming people whose unique culture can be both frustrating and enlightening in its complexity and contradictions. It can take many years to get a good grasp of the Japanese language and psyche. Even then, some say it’s impossible for a non-Japanese to be fully embraced by this homogenous society as one of their own.
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TOP EXPERIENCES IN
TOKYO Andrea Miyata
Tokyo is a city that can roar one moment and whisper at the next, a place where almost anything seems possible. And sometimes is. RYUGIN Ryugin, the latest Michelin guide has awarded its highest ranking—three stars—to 17 restaurants in the Tokyo area. Compare that to Paris, where just 10 eateries hold the coveted trois étoiles handed out by the French tire company, and it’s pretty clear fine dining should be at the top of any “what to do in Tokyo” list. One of the latest establishments to win top honors is Ryugin, run by chef Seiji Yamamoto. Called “brilliant” and a “molecular gastronomist” by food critics, Yamamoto opened his restaurant in 2003 with a clear goal—“to pursue the possibility of Japanese cuisine.” Here’s a guy so dedicated to understanding food he sent an eel for a CT scan so he could better understand how to carve up the creature for his signature soup.
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Ryugin offers a modern spin on the traditional, multicourse kaiseki meal, making creations out of products ranging from Wagyu beef to monkfish liver pâté to shirako. Diners who would normally say “delicious” are forced here to search for more emphatic terms. Add: 1/F Side Roppongi Building, 7-17-24 Roppongi
SUSHI DAI Sushi Dai, where your breakfast comes to die. Don’t bother trying to count the sushi restaurants in Tokyo—there are just too many. From high-end to back alley, there are enough places peddling this famous rawfish-based creation to keep this city’s customers satisfied, not to mention the millions of annual visitors. One way to grab some of the best sushi in Tokyo and to take in a venerable tourist site at the same time is to dine at Sushi Dai, located at the Tsukiji fish market. It doesn’t get any fresher. Add: 5-2-1 Tsukiji, Chuo-ku
“Tokyo was an origami city folded over and over until something was made of virtually nothing.” —Christopher Barzak
SEIRINKAN The people who run Seirinkan make some of the best pizza in Tokyo, hands down. You’ll see the oven burning away as you enter this narrow building in Nakameguro. It would be wise to watch your head as you climb the winding wood and metal staircase to the second and third floors, but it’s also worth taking in the décor, which includes helmets and camouflage netting. It feels like you’re in an army bunker, albeit one with dark red curtains. The menu has a variety of pasta and appetizer options, but the pizza is the real reason to go. Sure, it’s limited to just two selections —the cheese-cherry tomato margherita and the tomato sauce-seasoning-sliced-garlic marinara. But trust us: once you try them, with their lightly salted crusts, you won’t want for anything else.
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Add: 2-6-4 Kamimeguro, Meguro-kuNightlife
MUSE 1.Ryugin
This cavernous basement establishment is popular with expats, young and not-so young, although not everyone will admit they go.
2.Seirinkan 3
3.Muse
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Japan Kyoto Kam day full house
The crowd packs the dance floor to tunes that New York grew tired of a couple of years ago. Muse sometimes feels like one of those end-of-night pick-up spots, but it can be a fun place to party. Call it a guilty pleasure. Add: B/1F, 4-1-1 Nishi-Azabu, Minato-ku
BAR TRAM
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Bar Tram
The winding streets near the west entrance of the JR Ebisu Station are home to a wealth of bars and restaurants, most all but hidden from sight. A couple of signs outside Bar Tram do their best to entice passersby: “Get Drunk Differently,” they say. Head up the stairs and squeeze through the half-door entrance and you’ll understand what that means. Bar Tram’s specialty is serving absinthe, the strong and some say mind-altering drink that’s also known as “the green fairy.” Patrons sip the stuff solo at the bar or at small tables. Small groups can also gather on a pair of comfortable leather couches.
Star Bar
There are plenty of varieties of absinthe to choose from, plus there’s a small section of booze at the bar labeled “Dangerous Bottles.” Bar Tram is not everyone’s tipple. It accommodates only about 20-25 people and the air is usually thick with cigarette smoke. Add: 2/F Swing Building, 1-2-13 Ebisu-nishi
STAR BAR Tokyo is famous for its top-notch, old-school bartenders; men (and some women) who have honed the craft and adhere to a strict set of rules when they mix up the classics. Among the best, Star Bar is a cozy establishment in Ginza squeezed into a space no bigger than a single train car. This is where top barman Hisashi Kishi works his magic, using five distinctive shake patterns to blend his creations, including his celebrated Sidecar. Add: B1/F Sankosha Building, 1-5-13 Ginza, Chuo-ku
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