The Cocktail Chronicles (PREVIEW)

THE

Cocktail CHRONICLES 2

Navigating the Cocktail Renaissance with Jigger, Shaker & Glass

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Foreword by Jim Meehan

Paul Clarke

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THE z

Cocktail CHRONICLES 2 Navigating the Cocktail Renaissance with Jigger, Shaker & Glass

Paul Clarke Foreword by Jim Meehan

Text © 2015 by Paul Clarke All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, electric or mechanical, including photocopying, recording, or by any information storage and retrieval system, without written permission from the author.

Publisher: Paul McGahren Editor: Matthew Teague Art Director: Lindsay Hess Illustrator: Andrew Vastagh Layout: Maura Zimmer Copyeditor: Kerri Grzybicki Spring House Press 3613 Brush Hill Court Nashville, TN 37216 ISBN: 978-1-940611-17-4 Library of Congress Control Number: 2015941304 Printed in the United States First Printing: June 2015 The following manufacturers/names appearing in The Cocktail Chronicles are trademarks: A. Monteaux, Aalborg, Abbott’s bitters, Absinthe Marteau, Absolut, Adam Elmegirab, Al Wadi, Alberta Distillers, Amargo Chunco, Amaro Averna, Amaro Montenegro, Amaro Nonino, Amer Picon, Anchor Distilling Junipero, Angostura 1919 rum, Angostura bitters, Anis del Mono, Aperol, Appleton Estate Signature Blend, Ardbeg, Atsby, Auchentoshan, Averna, Aveze, Aviation Gin, Avuá, Aylesbury Duck, B.G. Reynolds, Bacardi 8, Bacardi Superior, Banks 5 Island, Banks 7 Golden Age, Barbancourt, Barsol, Becherovka, Beefeater, Bénédictine, Benton’s bacon, Big Gulp, Bigallet China-China Amer, Bitter Truth Aromatic Bitters, Bittermens Amer Nouvelle, Bittermens Amère Sauvage, Bittermens Hellfire Habanero Shrub, Bittermens Xocolatl Molé bitters, Black Grouse, Blenheim, Blue Bottle, Blue Gin, Boker’s Bitters, Bols, Bonal Gentiane-Quina, Bonzer, Booker’s, Boulard, Branca Menta, Braulio, Briottet, Buffalo Trace, Bulleit, Bundaberg, Bushmills, Busnel, Byrrh, Campari, Campo de Encanto, Caña Brava, Carpano Antica Formula, Chairman’s Reserve, Chartreuse, Chateau du Breuil Fine Calvados, Chef’n FreshForce, Chichicapa, Christian Drouin, Cinzano, Citadelle, Clear Creek Distillery, Coca-Cola, Cocchi Aperitivo Americano, Cocchi Vermouth di Torino, Cockspur, Cocktail Kingdom, Cointreau, Combier Liquer d’Orange, Compass Box’s Asyla, Crème Yvette, Cruzan Single Barrel Rum, Cuisinart, Cynar, Daiquiri Dude, Dale DeGroff, Del Maguey’s Chichicapa, Del Maguey’s Vida, Demerara rum, Denny’s, Diep 9, Dolin, Don Julio, Drambuie, Dubonnet, Edouard, El Dorado, El Jolgorio, Emile Pernot Vieux Pontarlier, Evan Williams, Facebook, Famous Grouse, Fee Brothers, Fee Brothers Orange Bitters, Fernet-Branca, Fever Tree, Fidencio, Flor de Caña, Ford’s Gin, Fortaleza, Forty Creek, Four Roses Yellow Label, Germain-Robin, Giffard, Giffard’s Abricot du Roussillon, Giffard’s Triple Sec, Gran Classico, Great King Street, Green Spot, Hamilton’s Jamaican Pot Still Black Rum, Hamilton’s rum, Hangar One, Havana Club, Hayman’s, Hayman’s Old Tom, Hendrick’s Gin, Herbsaint, Hidalgo, Highland Park, Highland Park 12, Hine and Hardy, House Spirits, Huber’s Starlight Distillery, Imbibe, Imbue, Imbue Petal & Thorn, iPad, iPhone, Jack Rudy Cocktail Co., Jack Rudy Tonic Syrup, Jade, Jägermeister, Jameson, Jarritos, Jim Beam Distillery, Karlsson’s, Knob Creek, Kold-Draft, Krogstad Festlig Aquavit, Kronan Swedish Punsch, Kuhn Rikon, La Favorite, Laird’s 100-proof, Laird’s Applejack,

Laird’s Bonded Apple Brandy, Laphroaig, Larceny, Leblon, Lillet blanc, Linie, Louis Royer Force 53, Lustau, Luxardo, M&Ms, Macchu Pisco, Maker’s Mark, Maraska, Marie Duffau Napoleon Bas Armagnac, Martell VSOP, Martin Miller’s, Martini & Rossi, Martin’s Index of Cocktails & Mixed Drinks, Metrokane, Mezcal Vida, Milky Way, MixologyTech, Mrs. Butterworth’s, Neisson, No. 3 Gin, Noilly Prat, North Shore Distillery’s Private Reserve Aquavit, Nouveaux Orleans, Novo Fogo, Nux Alpina, Ojen, Old Ballard Liquor Company, Old Grand Dad, Old Overholt, Olmeca Altos, OXO, Pacifique, Pall Mall, Peach Street Distillers, Pedro Ximenez sherry, Percocet, Pernod, Peter Heering Cherry Liqueur, Petite Canne, Peychaud’s bitters, Pierde Almas, Pierre Ferrand, Pierre Ferrand 1840, Pierre Ferrand Ambre, Pisco Porton, Plantation, Plantation 3 Stars, Plymouth, Plymouth Gin, Plymouth Navy Strength, Plymouth sloe gin, Polarfleece, Powers, Prosecco, PUG Muddlers, Punt e Mes, Pür Likor Williams Pear, Purkhart, Q Soda, R. Murphy Knives, Rachel’s Ginger Beer, Ramazzotti, Ransom Old Tom, Red Breast, Red Bull, Redemption Rye, Regan’s bitters, Regan’s Orange Bitters No. 6, Rhum Clement’s Canne Bleu, Rhum J.M., Rittenhouse, Ron Cooper’s Del Maguey, Rose’s Lime Juice, Rösle, Rothman & Winter, Rothman & Winter’s St. Elizabeth Allspice Dram, Russian Standard, Sagatiba, Salers, Sazerac, Scarlet Ibis, Schmallet Wood Mallet, Siembra Azul, Siete Leguas, Sipsmith, Slingshot, Slurpee, Small Hand Foods, Small Hand Foods Yeoman Tonic Syrup, Smith & Cross, Soda Stream, Sprite, Square One, St. George Spirits, St. George Spirits Botanivore, St. George Spirits Firelit Spirits Coffee Liqueur, St. George Spirits Spiced Pear Liqueur, St. George Spirits Terroir, St. Germain, St. Raphael, Studebaker, Stumptown, Stumptown’s Holler Mountain, Subaru, Sur la Table, Sutton Cellars, Sutton Cellars’ California vermouth, Suze, Talisker, Tanqueray, Tapatio, Teeling’s, Templeton Rye, Tempus Fugit, Tequila Cabeza, Tequila Ocho, The Bitter Truth, The Botanist Gin, Tobala, Tomr’s Tonic, Toschi, Total Tiki, Trader Joe’s, Trader Vic’s, Trimbach, Trinidad, Uber Bar Tools, Uncouth Vermouth, Unicum, Usagi, Vago, Velvet Falernum, Verte Suisse, Vollrath, VSOP, Vya, W.L. Weller, Waring, Whistle Pig, Wild Turkey, Winnie the Pooh, WMF Loft, Wray & Nephew, Yarai, YouTube, Zapaca, Zyliss

To learn more about Spring House Press books, or to find a retailer near you, email info@springhousepress.com or visit us at: www.springhousepress.com.

The The Cocktail Cocktail Chronicles Chronicles & Paul Paul Clarke Clarke Praise for

“Paul Clarke began writing about the cocktail renaissance when it was still wishful thinking, and has been covering it ever since. I challenge anybody to find somebody who knows it better or, just as important, somebody who can explain it more clearly or genially. He is the ideal guide.”

—DAVID WONDRICH, author of Imbibe! and Punch; Esquire drinks correspondent

“The most indispensable cocktail guide in years. Paul Clarke’s serious authority never gets in the way of his pleasure. This is the guy you want behind the bar with you.”

—JONATHAN MILES, former New York Times cocktail columnist

“Whether celebrating the rebirth of The Last Word or comparing an aperitif to Boom Boom Mancini, The Cocktail Chronicles is a decade-in-the-making document of Paul Clarke at his finest.

He nails that sweet spot of drinks writing, appealing to veteran bartenders and cocktail geeks while expertly demystifying matters for those eager to learn more.”

—BRAD THOMAS PARSONS, author of Bitters: A Spirited History of a Classic Cure-All

“It’s not often that a new cocktail book holds my attention, but I wasn’t surprised that Paul’s did. The Cocktail Chronicles will serve as a wonderful homage to what is perhaps one of the most pivotal times in the history of cocktails.”

—AUDREY SAUNDERS, owner of Pegu Club, New York City

“The Cocktail Chronicles is not just an engaging inquiry to the classics, but a unique eyewitness account of the contemporary craft-cocktail revolution.

It’s a lot to drink in, but Paul mixes it perfectly and serves it with a smile.”

—JEFF “BEACHBUM” BERRY, author of Potions of the Caribbean

“The Cocktail Chronicles is an insider’s guide to the classic and modern drinks, spirits, bars, and bartenders driving the current cocktail renaissance, from a writer who has been on its front lines for the past decade.”

—CAMPER ENGLISH, cocktail journalist and publisher of Alcademics.com

“The Cocktail Chronicles blog was such a big part of my education. This book is long overdue, and will be required reading for the next generation of bartenders.”

—JEFFREY MORGENTHALER, bar manager at Clyde Common (Portland, Oregon) and author of The Bar Book: Elements of Cocktail Technique

“This book is not only valuable, it’s necessary. And while it’s replete with cocktails, at Paul Clarke’s hand, the writing always wins.”

—TED HAIGH, “Dr. Cocktail,” author of Vintage Spirits and Forgotten Cocktails

“Few people have followed the cocktail revolution as closely as Paul Clarke. And to follow his journey—and look at where it all began, where it’s been, and where we’ve ended up—there’s no more entertaining way of discovering all the details than by reading this fine tome.”

—GAZ REGAN, author of The Joy of Mixology

Contents Contents Foreword by Jim Meehan . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9 CHAPTER ONE:

NOTES FROM A RENAISSANCE IN PROGRESS . . . . . . . . . . . . 13

About the Drinks . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22 Basic Cocktail Technique . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 24 Glassware . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 29

CHAPTER TWO:

NOT FORGOTTEN . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 31 Familiar classics and back-from-the-dead obscurities

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Cocktail Essentials: Gin . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 34 A Taste Apart: Honey . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 38 Cocktail Style: Drinks of God . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 44 Cocktail Essentials: Applejack & Calvados . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 48 Cocktail Style: A Not-Quite-Perfect Gentleman . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 51 Cocktail Style: The Julep & The Smash . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 52 A Taste Apart: Sloe Gin . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 55 A Taste Apart: Amer Picon . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 55 A Taste Apart: Champagne . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 56 A Taste Apart: Lost and Found . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 58 Cocktail Essentials: Aperitifs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 63 A Taste Apart: Orgeat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 68 Cocktail Style: Drinks of Empire . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 71 A Taste Apart: Grenadine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 73 A Taste Apart: Curaรงao & Triple Sec . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 73 A Taste Apart: Apricot . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 74 Cocktail Essentials: Brandy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 77 Cocktail Style: The Flip & the Fizz . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 80 A Taste Apart: Absinthe . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 83 A Taste Apart: Sherry . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 86 A Taste Apart: Pineapple & Raspberry . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 89 Cocktail Style: New Orleans . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 90 Cocktail Essentials: Whiskey . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 96

THE COCKTAIL CHRONICLES

CHAPTER THREE:

MUSES & BRIDGES . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 101 Five enduring classics and the drinks they’ve inspired

Daiquiri . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 102 Old Fashioned . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 106 Manhattan . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 109 Martini . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 113 Negroni . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 117

CHAPTER FOUR:

STAYING POWER . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 123 Contemporary cocktails—and a few that just might be built to last

A Taste Apart: Falernum . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 125 Cocktail Essentials: Tequila & Mezcal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 129 A Taste Apart: Swizzles . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 135 Cocktail Essentials: Rum . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 138 Cocktail Essentials: Cachaça . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 141 Cocktail Essentials: Bitters . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 144 Cocktail Essentials: Vodka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 148 Cocktail Style: In Praise of Difficult Drinks . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 150 A Taste Apart: Jam . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 153 A Taste Apart: Amari . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .154 Cocktail Essentials: Pisco . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 157 Cocktail Style: The Triumph of Tiki . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 159 Cocktail Essentials: Aquavit . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 166

CHAPTER FIVE:

BOTTLES, TOOLS & TIPS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 171

Ice . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Cocktail Gear . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Liquor Cabinet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Cocktail Kitchen . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

172 173 177 184

Resources . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Acknowledgements . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

About the Author . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Base Ingredients Index . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Index . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

190 192 193 194 196

THE COCKTAIL CHRONICLES 5

recipes recipes CHAPTER 1

Notes from a Renaissance in Progress Corpse Reviver #2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 19 Corn ’n’ Oil . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22

CHAPTER 2

Not Forgotten Gimlet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 32 French 75 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 33 Howitzer . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 33 Alaska Cocktail . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 34 Leave It To Me . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 35 Claridge Cocktail . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .36 Sleepy Hollow . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .36 Ephemeral . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 37 Holland Gin Daisy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 37 Gaby Des Lys . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 37 Brown Derby . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 38 Bumble Bee . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .38 Last Word . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 39 Hanky Panky . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 40 Creole Contentement . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 40 Sherry Cobbler . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 41 Blood and Sand . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 42 Hotel Nacional Special . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 43 Nacional . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 43 Champs Elysees . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 44 Pago Pago . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 44 Diamond Back . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45 Coin Toss . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45 Rob Roy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 46 Bobby Burns . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 46 Picon Punch . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 47 Lucien Gaudin . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 47 Applejack Rabbit . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 48 Diki Diki . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 48 Syncopation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 49

6

THE COCKTAIL CHRONICLES

Newark . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 49 Widow’s Kiss . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 50 Remember the Maine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 51 Pisco Apricot Tropical . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 51 Mint Julep . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 52 Prescription Julep . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 52 Georgia Mint Julep . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 52 Brandy Smash . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 53 Black Jack (original) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 54 Black Jack (Meehan) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 54 Black Jack (Shoemaker) . . . . . . . . . . . . . 54 Savoy Tango . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 55 Champagne Cocktail . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 56 Airmail . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 56 Twentieth Century . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 57 Twenty-First Century . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 57 30th Century Man . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 57 Attention . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 58 Aviation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 58 Lion’s Tail . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 59 Doctor Cocktail . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 59 Bijou . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 60 San Martin . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 60 Cameron’s Kick . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 61 Tom Collins . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 62 Appetizer á l’Italienne . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 63 Chrysanthemum . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 64 Bonal & Rye . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 64 Coronation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 65 Quinquina Cocktail . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 65 Milk Punch . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 66 Japanese Cocktail . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 67 Army & Navy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 68 Supreme . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 68 Clover Club . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 69 Pink Lady . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 69 Whiskey Sour . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 70 Gin & Tonic . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 71 Pegu Club . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 71 El Presidente . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 72 Jack Rose . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 73 Charlie Chaplin . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 74 Self Starter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 74 Floridita Cocktail . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 75 Don’t Give Up the Ship . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 75

Sidecar . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 76 Bombay Cocktail . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 77 Brandy Scaffa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 78 Burnt Fuselage . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 78 Ritz Cocktail . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 79 Rose . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 79 Gin Fizz Tropical . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 80 Apricot Flip . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 81 Gin Fizz . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 81 Silver Fizz . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 81 Colleen Bawn . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 81 Morning Glory . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 82 Absinthe Cocktail . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 83 Absinthe Drip . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 83 South Side . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 84 East Side . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 84 Periodista . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 85 Journalist . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 85 Bamboo Cocktail . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 86 La Perla . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .86 Rickey . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 87 East India Cocktail . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 88 Prince of Wales . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 89 Blinker . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 89 Absinthe Frappe . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 90 Cocktail à la Louisane . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 91 Creole . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 91 Roffignac . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .92 Vieux Carre . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 93 Bywater . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 93 Seelbach Cocktail . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 94 Liberal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 94 Sazerac . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 95 Dixie Cocktail . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 96 Kentucky Buck . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 97 Paper Plane . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 98 Rapscallion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 98 Toronto Cocktail . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 99 Tipperary . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 99

CHAPTER 3

CHAPTER 4

Muses & Bridges

Staying Power

Daiquiri . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 102 Floridita Daiquiri (aka Daiquiri #4) . . . 103 Hemingway Daiquiri (aka Daiquiri #3) 103 Daisy de Santiago . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 103 Boukman Daiquiri . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 104 Winter Daiquiri . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 104 Trinidad Hook . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 105 Nuclear Daiquiri . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 105 Old Fashioned . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 106 American Trilogy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 108 Oaxaca Old Fashioned . . . . . . . . . . . . . 108 Walnut Old Fashioned . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 108 Improved Holland Gin Cocktail . . . . . 108 Manhattan . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 109 Reverse Manhattan . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 110 Boothby . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 110 Marconi Wireless . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 110 Brooklyn . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 111 Saratoga Cocktail . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 111 Greenpoint . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 111 Little Italy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 112 Moto Guzzi . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 112 Black Manhattan . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 112 Uptown Manhattan . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 112 Martini . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 113 Martinez . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 114 Tuxedo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 114 Turf Club . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 114 Kangaroo Cocktail . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 115 Fitty Fitty . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 115 Negroni . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 117 Americano . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 118 Boulevardier . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 118 Negroni Sbagliato . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 118 Agavoni . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 118 Continental . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 119 Contessa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 119 White Negroni . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 119 Kingston Negroni . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 119 Chocolate Negroni . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 120 Negroni Swizzle . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 120

Añejo Highball . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 124 Pliny’s Tonic . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 124 Royal Bermuda Yacht Club . . . . . . . . . . 125 Chartreuse Swizzle . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 126 Revolver . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 127 Red Ant . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 127 Jasmine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 128 Jaguar . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 129 Maximilian Affair . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 129 Nouveau Carre . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 130 Aguamiel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 130 Paloma . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 131 Harrington Cocktail . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 132 Malecon . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 132 Old Cuban . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 134 Queen’s Park Swizzle . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 135 Dolores Park Swizzle . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 135 Bramble . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 136 Cosmopolitan . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 137 Clint Eastwood . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 137 Ace of Clubs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 138 Land’s End . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 138 The Getaway . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 139 ’Ti Punch . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 140 Unique Bird . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 140 Caipirinha . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 141 Batida . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 141 Honey Fitz . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 142 Fort Washington Flip . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 142 Tommy’s Margarita . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 143 Margarita . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 143 Albazam . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 144 Sawyer . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 144 Trinidad Sour . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 145 Penicillin Cocktail . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 146 Who Dares Wins . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 147 Theobroma . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 147 Moscow Mule . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 148 Vodka Espresso . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 149 Gypsy Cocktail . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 149 Ramos Fizz . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 150

Benton’s Old Fashioned . . . . . . . . . . . . . 151 Falling Leaves . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 152 Northern Spy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 152 Marmalade Sour . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 153 Breakfast Martini . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 153 Italian Buck . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 154 Bitter Giuseppe . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 154 Black Rock Chiller . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 155 Red Hook . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 156 The Slope . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 156 Cienciano . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 157 Pisco Bellringer . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 157 Division Bell . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 158 Naked & Famous . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 158 Mai Tai . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 159 Donga Punch . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 159 Test Pilot . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 160 2070 Swizzle . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 161 Three Dots and a Dash . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 161 Zombie (1934) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 162 Jungle Bird . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 163 The Graduate . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 164 Brave Companion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 164 Réveillon Cocktail . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 165 Trident . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 166 Single Village Fix . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 167 Gin Basil Smash . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 168 Louie Louie . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 169 Cumberland Sour . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 169

THE COCKTAIL CHRONICLES 7

P

, Foreword Foreword

aul began writing about drinks on his blog, The Cocktail Chronicles, and for Imbibe magazine in 2005. That same year, I was hired by Audrey Saunders to tend bar at the Pegu Club, and by Food & Wine magazine to edit their annual cocktail book. I’d tended bar for 10 years by that time in my career, and helped edit the Mr. Boston Bartender’s Guide, but my professional journey may as well have just begun.

A movement—some call it a renaissance—was taking shape in bars across the country, fueled by the same ethos that chefs, winemakers, brewers, distillers, and baristas were pioneering in their workplaces. With the hangover of the fruitflavored, Martini–fueled ’90s still ringing, history–minded cocktailians—a fancy term for people who can name more than three brands of bitters—began to question what a bar and bartender should and could be. Interestingly, many of those driving the dialogue weren’t bartenders.

At the time, the Internet was still taking shape, and thanks to chat groups in online forums, like–minded enthusiasts from all over the world found each other.

Two notable domains from the city of Seattle were Robert Hess’s DrinkBoy and Paul Clarke’s Cocktail Chronicles. Spurred on by the exploits of local bartenders such as Murray Stenson and Jamie Boudreau, they used their skills as writers to document their experiments, share their resources, and shed light upon their brethren across the World Wide Web. A handful of books were published around this time to cement their platform: Vintage Spirits and Forgotten Cocktails by Ted Haigh; Cocktail: The Drinks Bible for the 21st Century by Paul Harrington; and The Craft of the Cocktail by Dale DeGroff. Without sounding melancholy or maudlin, each of these traced the history of the cocktail back to the 19th century, and documented the author’s

9

FOREWORD efforts to recreate and source historic

Chronicles to an album, it would be the

ingredients and recreate old recipes

Singles soundtrack: a peerless mixtape

that begged more attention from

for a forgettable movie, appropriately set

modern audiences.

in Seattle, which launched the careers of

This was happening at a time when chefs were centering their menus around local ingredients; craft–beer brands were

bands like Pearl Jam, Soundgarden, and Smashing Pumpkins.

Every time I listen to it, I’m transported back to a formative period of my life;

With the hangover of the fruit-flavored, Martini–fueled ’90s still ringing, history–minded cocktailians—a fancy term for people who can name more than three brands of bitters—began to question what a bar and bartender should and could be.

reading Paul’s book has the same effect.

History is tricky, in that its author decides what we should focus on, blurring other angles of the story. For this reason, I couldn’t be more enthusiastic about Paul’s version, which nimbly portrays the handiwork of bartenders, bars, ingredients, and recipes from cities all over the world.

Each story reinforces not only his mastery of the material, but underscores his relationship with makers of all types

hopping; American winemakers were

whose stories are documented with an

capturing international acclaim; and

intimacy only a select few possess today.

baristas were taking Italian coffee culture

And unlike many writers, who vet their

to new heights. Ingredient-driven cocktails

perspective by sticking to the popular

prepared with fresh produce and premium

narrative, Paul sheds light on the work

spirits just made sense—so much so, that a

of world–class working bartenders such

Portland, Oregon–based magazine called

as Boston’s Josey Packard and Chicago’s

Imbibe was founded to celebrate “liquid

Stephen Cole, whose brilliance tends to

culture” in full–color splendor, with Paul as

fly under the radar of journalists who don’t

one of the founding contributors for their

have their fingers on the pulse.

debut issue in 2006—which brings me to the author of

pulls for the West

this timely tome.

Coast like a presidential

No one’s had a better

10

Ever diplomatic, Paul

candidate establishing his

vantage to chronicle the

voting record. (The fact of the

transformation in American

matter is the vast majority of

cocktail culture than Paul

the country’s national media

Clarke. This will date me, but if

outlets are headquartered in

I had to compare The Cocktail

New York City, which skews

THE COCKTAIL CHRONICLES

FOREWORD

most coverage to the handiwork of the

the importance of having fun behind the

cocktail world’s capital city.) He’s done

bar; but at no point do you feel like he’s

an admirable job of documenting the

casual about the subject after loosening

contributions of Left Coast bartenders,

his critical tie.

distillers, and entrepreneurs without his perspective feeling regional in any way.

In addition to being a fantastic history, The Cocktail Chronicles is an excellent

Left leanings aside, the quality of his

collection of recipes with everything the

writing carries the book. Paul’s playful

reader needs to begin or complete their

sense of humor, sharp wit, and practical

cocktail education. The author writes for

approach to the subject make it impossible

enthusiasts using analogous art forms and

not to cheer his choices on. He’s critical

pop–cultural phenomena outside the realm

where it’s crucial—in matters ranging from

of mixology to speak more clearly about

spirit selection, recipe proportions, and

those in it. For this, and so much more, I

environmental concerns—and judgmental

am grateful to Paul for enriching the art

without lecturing. His writing steers clear

of mixing and serving drinks in this lively

of polemicism, shirks fussy recipes and

resource, and heartily cheer him on to

didactic perspectives, and reinforces

continue chronicling his exploits.

— Jim Meehan, author of The PDT Cocktail Book

THE COCKTAIL CHRONICLES 11

,

I

Renaissance Renaissance in Progress in Progress CHAPTER 1

Notes from a

N

ot every revolution requires an insurrection, and not every renaissance begins in salons, galleries or cloistered chambers. The cocktail seemed an unlikely candidate to start either a revolution or a renaissance, but somehow over the past decade, give or take, it has managed to find itself at the center of both.

How unlikely? On a certain level—a big level—it’s just a damn drink. But today the cocktail is celebrated at week–long conferences and festivals that draw thousands. The resurgence of the craft cocktail (for lack of a better term) may have started just over a decade ago in faux–speakeasies in New York, London’s lux cocktail lounges, and San Francisco’s culinary crucible, but today you can order a Last Word at a bar named after the once–forgotten cocktail in Livermore, California (or at bars named for similar purpose in Edinburgh, Christchurch, San Antonio, or Ann Arbor); drink fresh and imaginative riffs on the Old Fashioned or the Tom Collins at an airport bar in Atlanta; or—at the New York City franchise that opened in 2014, anyway—sit back with an Aperol Spritz or a Tommy’s Margarita in the uber–Americana environment of Denny’s.

Mirroring the wider culinary movement that’s been building steam for decades, craft–cocktail bars (and the bartenders and writers who inhabit them) are digging in the depths of the drink’s rich (but often shoddily detailed) history. At times, they come back bearing precious nuggets—the Bijou, the Boulevardier, and the felicitously named Corpse Reviver #2, among others.

And sometimes, these finds go beyond simple recipes. Techniques and skills have been garnered from the past, dusted off, and deployed in contemporary bars—sometimes with modern–day embellishments and modifications drawn from the molecular–gastronomy kitchens of Wylie Dufresne, Grant Achatz, and Ferran Adria.

13

Chapter 1: Notes from a Renaissance in Progress Such creativity fuels the renaissance part of the equation. And the revolution?

Prior to the resurgence of the cocktail’s

craft brewers and winemakers who, decades earlier, ventured down similar paths.

Some are preparing for the long haul,

popularity, the liquor world was dominated

aiming over time to not only make good

by an ever-expanding variety of flavored

booze, but revolutionize the way liquor

vodkas and suspicious mixtures designed

is made, sold, and marketed. Crass

to appeal to the booze market’s lowest

consumption is increasingly out, the

common denominator (usually, the 21–to–

garishness of artificially inflected booze

34–year–old club-goer who’s unashamed

about as welcome among craft distillers and

to ask a perfect stranger for an Adios

bartenders as a Hummer at a Sierra Club

Motherfucker or a Red–Headed Slut). That’s still around, of course—for every teenager who just downloaded a Velvet Underground album, there are thousands of others shelling out for Taylor Swift—and the same rules apply in the drinks world, with sales

A dozen–plus years of Prohibition failed to stamp out America’s taste for ardent spirits, but it did change the way we drink.

of whipped cream–flavored vodka eclipsing those of artisanal mezcal by a depressingly enormous margin.

But the cocktail resurgence has

still scarcer than ivory–billed woodpeckers,

changed the way we buy and sell booze.

but there’s a prevailing sense that a shift is

Like ocean liners, the massive liquor–

occurring. If and when that fully happens,

company leviathans are slowly shifting

the liquor store and the local bar may be

course, recognizing the unexpected and

fully part of the modern food landscape—

unprecedented surge of demand for

places where conversations about ethics

cocktail–centric spirits like rye whiskey,

and sustainability no longer seem out of

complexly flavorful vermouths, interesting

place, and where the liquor selection is as

gins, and tequilas with a sense of character.

locavore as the fruit at the farmer’s market.

Meanwhile, changes in state liquor laws mean there are now scores of small distilleries popping up in almost every state in the country, making local whiskies, gins, and brandies. These distillers’ share of the market is still quantifiable in peanuts, and much of their new liquor is, admittedly, not yet ready for prime time. But these distillers are looking at the experiences of

14

conference. Spirits with a sense of virtue are

THE COCKTAIL CHRONICLES

Renaissance and revolution—and all because of a damn drink.

Chapter 1: Notes from a Renaissance in Progress

A

s with any popular movement, the cocktail renaissance (or resurgence, or

A dozen–plus years of Prohibition failed to stamp out America’s taste for ardent spirits,

revolution—none of the nomenclatural hats

but it did change the way we drink. It fully

fit perfectly) involves a cast of thousands,

shifted the emphasis away from carefully

with leading figures such as New York’s Pegu

rendered balances of flavor and toward

Club–owner Audrey Saunders its Leonardo,

a drink’s boozy vavoom, its inebriating

and writers such as David Wondrich its

effects prized above all (a situation that

Dante Alighieri. But before this renaissance

still exists in some ways, as exemplified by

could fully get underway, it required the

fishbowl–sized Martinis in many mainstream

proper alignment of the cocktail planets—in

bars and the TNT power of drinks like the

this case, the celestial bodies included such

Long Island Iced Tea). It also eradicated the

pioneering bartenders as Dick Bradsell in

livelihoods of experienced bartenders, or

London, Charles Schumann in Munich, and

drove them overseas or into illegal industry—

Dale DeGroff in New York.

in effect, largely destroying the institutional

A few background basics: The 19th

knowledge that had been acquired in the

century witnessed both the likely advent

decades since the cocktail’s first mid–19th

and the initial zenith of the broad class

century surge. The Second World War dealt

of drinks we call cocktails. The mixture

a further blow, denying American bars

emerged from the swamp of early American

imported English gins and French brandies

history and flared into full force around the

(as well as Italian vermouths and liqueurs),

same time as the Civil War. By the 1880s

and even domestic liquor was sharply

and ’90s, the cocktail was a core part of

limited due to the war effort.

the American character and an increasingly

By the time things seemingly got back to

popular export—which was fortunate, as

normal—if that term can aptly be applied

when Prohibition brought the whole thing

to the years when impending nuclear

crashing down a few years later, there

Armageddon seemed a certainty—American

were bars in Havana, London, and Paris

tastes in drink were already shifting away

to which the thirsty (and expatriate

from the rich, daring, and robust. By the

bartenders) could flock until everyone

late 1960s, sales of vodka—a neutral spirit

came to their senses.

easily obscured by the flavor of pretty much

THE COCKTAIL CHRONICLES 15

Chapter 1: Notes from a Renaissance in Progress anything—were outpacing those of gin, and

They didn’t need to look far or wait long.

by the time of the nation’s bicentennial,

Bradsell drove the British cocktail scene

vodka was surpassing whiskey.

forward with bars such as Match and The

This shift also roughly corresponded with

Player, and Schumann’s American Bar—

incursions from the food scientists—in the

published in 1995—hinted at the direction

form of commercial sour mix and packaged

the larger bar world would soon take.

cocktail preparations—and other labor–saving

And DeGroff? You need only go out for a drink tonight in New York City to

You need only go out for a drink tonight in New York City to experience the lasting beneficence of King Cocktail’s reign.

experience the lasting beneficence of King Cocktail’s reign. Dale put the dignity back into drinks from his roost atop Rockefeller Center, and such interest in civilized cocktails quickly spread after the turn of the millennium. Bars such as Milk & Honey, from Sasha Petraske, coined the neo– speakeasy style since imitated worldwide;

16

steps such as soda guns that sprayed tonic,

they also mirrored DeGroff’s interest in

Coca-Cola, or an assortment of other mixers,

impeccably rendered cocktails prepared in

and other shortcuts that swapped quality

the mode of the 19th and early 20th century

and flavor for speed and convenience.

masters of the craft. Audrey Saunders,

During the 1970s (and well into the

who worked with DeGroff at Blackbird,

‘80s), the cocktail was arguably at its

first refined her approach at Beacon, The

weakest point. The country’s other

Tonic, and Bemelman’s Bar, then—in one

cultural touchstones at the time included

of those Apollo mission moments that

combovers, platform shoes, and Muskrat

clearly distinguish what came before

Love, so perhaps the near-demise of urbane

from what’s happened since—opened her

drinking during the ‘70s isn’t so surprising.

groundbreaking Pegu Club bar on West

But by the Fuzzy Navel–era of the mid-

Houston Street in 2005. And Julie Reiner,

1980s, Schumann, DeGroff, and Bradsell

who opened Flatiron Lounge in 2003,

were already making moves that would

began to build her own orbit of craft bars,

take almost two decades to fully resonate.

including Clover Club in Brooklyn, which

Bradsell, at Fred’s Club and Soho Brasserie;

quickly became one of the cocktail world’s

Schumann, at his eponymous Munich bar;

most beloved following its 2008 debut.

and DeGroff (crowned “King Cocktail” in the

At Petraske’s bars (which, in addition to

'90s) heading the bar at Rockefeller Center’s

Milk & Honey—currently on hiatus—include

Rainbow Room, plumbed the past to look

Little Branch and Dutch Kills) and those

for direction into the future, along the way

from Saunders and Reiner, New York

gathering admirers and acolytes.

bartenders built not only solid reputations

THE COCKTAIL CHRONICLES

Chapter 1: Notes from a Renaissance in Progress for these establishments, but honed the

Mix Drinks or the Bon Vivant’s Companion,

talents they’d then take on to a steadily

published in 1862—practiced his talents in

expanding diaspora of bars. Alumni such

a city flooded with gold from the Sierra

as Jim Meehan, Philip Ward, and Sam

Nevada digs. Restaurants such as Absinthe

Ross went on to open or to helm such

Brasserie & Bar had begun dabbling with

craft–cocktail standards as PDT, Death &

craft cocktails in the late 1990s, and when

Co., Mayahuel, and Attaboy. The reach

the cocktail renaissance began to bubble on

extended westward, as well, with Petraske

the East Coast, Bay Area bartenders were

sending staff to Los Angeles to help spread

already getting into the game.

the cocktail word there via bars including

But while New York bartenders

The Varnish, and Death & Co. owner Dave

largely embraced the vintage cocktails

Kaplan partnering with bartender Alex Day

and approaches, many San Francisco

to open the downtown L.A. bar Honeycut,

bars functioned a little differently. Most

along with a small swarm of additional bars

operated within larger restaurants—largely

that steadily continues to expand.

a product of local licensing laws—but this

But when this East Coast wave first hit

also meant that Bay Area bartenders were

the West, it encountered an indigenous

often working with chefs in one of the

cocktail movement already in full flower. San

world’s most vibrant culinary capitals. Thus

Francisco’s mixology heritage extends to the

restaurants such as Absinthe, Charles

mid–19th century, when Jerry Thomas—the

Phan’s Slanted Door, which opened in 1995,

patron saint of today’s craft bartenders,

and Tracy Des Jardins’ Jardiniere, which

and author of the first known bartender’s

opened in 1997, developed bars that also

resource, The Bar–tender’s Guide: How to

nurtured the city’s maturing cocktail identity,

THE COCKTAIL CHRONICLES 17

Chapter 1: Notes from a Renaissance in Progress with bartenders such as Erik Adkins, Jennifer Colliau, Marcovaldo Dionysos, and Thad Vogler among those helping San Francisco’s cocktail scene grow to rival that of New York.

It’s an oversimplification to make too much of the differences between East Coast and West Coast bars, because

increasingly spreading

especially as the cocktail movement

into suburbs and small towns.

appeared in other cities, these broad– stroke regional differences began to blur.

isn’t left behind in the international

Boston’s cocktail culture—built by bars

departure lounge. Under Bradsell’s

such as Eastern Standard, No. 9 Park, and,

influence, London’s cocktail

later, Drink—largely followed the New York

scene developed largely as a

model but with a more relaxed style, an

contemporary of that in New York, and

approach mirrored in many ways by a West

the cities have dueled—often to London’s

Coast city, Seattle. Zig Zag Café opened in

favor—for the crown of global cocktail

Seattle around the turn of the millennium,

capital. Around the same time, bartenders

eschewing most of the California–style

in Hamburg, Berlin and Schumann’s home

culinary approaches in favor of classically

city of Munich were making Germany into

rendered drinks that long ago disappeared

an essential stop on any global cocktail

from menus, but prepared with a Northwest

crawl. Today, Europe’s thirst for great

nonchalance that contrasted with New

cocktails can be quenched across the

York’s painstakingly staged settings. And

continent, as bars in Belfast and Edinburgh,

regardless of geography, aspects that all

Amsterdam and Paris, Rome and Bratislava

craft bars shared included a disdain for

have joined the liquid insurrection.

commercial mixes and soda-gun shortcuts,

Meanwhile, Tokyo establishments such as

and a renewed use of fresh juices and

Star Bar and Bar High Five introduced a

natural ingredients, echoing movements in

painstakingly elegant Japanese approach

the culinary world at large.

to the cocktail. And in Australia, Melbourne

New York and San Francisco remain the

and Sydney have quietly nurtured

twin U.S. capitals of cocktails today, but it’s

imaginative craft-bar scenes that now

a realm that’s gradually spreading into a vast

rival those in London and New York, and

array of localized fiefdoms. Cities ranging

the country has taken to exporting such

from Sacramento to Charleston, Milwaukee

talented bartenders to the U.S. as Naren

to Louisville, and Houston to Portland now

Young and Sam Ross.

have destination–worthy cocktail scenes, and a once urban–centric scenario is 18

The thirst for great cocktails

THE COCKTAIL CHRONICLES

Which is all a long way of saying: this cocktail thing is huge. I hope you’re thirsty.

Chapter 1: Notes from a Renaissance in Progress

M

y cocktail enlightenment came satori-

reader: Murray Stenson, a bartender in

like in the summer of 2003. Tasked

Seattle who’d found my site and shared a

with making drinks for a dinner party—it

common interest in cocktail–nerd figures

was either that, or wash the dishes—I put

like Embury and Ted Saucier (the author

together an interesting–sounding recipe

of a racy cocktail guide titled Bottoms Up,

for a pitcher punch and poured it for my

published in 1951), and who invited me to

guests: the clouds above parted and the

come down for a drink.

Jesus-light shone down. . . something about the experience just felt right.

I knew of Murray, of course—Robert Hess, the namesake moderator of the Drinkboy

Back then, there were few resources

forums and another Seattle–based cocktail

and fewer bars that had fallen as fully for

enthusiast, had proclaimed Murray among

cocktails as I just had. I read everything

the best bartenders in the U.S., to little

I could find—books both recent (William

disagreement from others—and Zig Zag

Grimes’ Straight Up or On the Rocks was

Café, where Murray was then working,

invaluable, as was David Wondrich’s Esquire

was developing a reputation (still valid) as

Drinks and, later, Ted “Dr. Cocktail” Haigh’s

among the best cocktail bars in the world.

Vintage Spirits and Forgotten Cocktails)

I’d visited Zig Zag several times, but was

and vintage (David Embury’s The Fine Art of

hardly a known regular. Murray may have

Mixing Drinks provided me with a cocktail

ostensibly asked me down to talk shop

philosophy, and Charles H. Baker, Jr.’s The

(and perhaps to gauge if I had any idea

Gentleman’s Companion with an aesthetic

what I was talking about), but he quickly

sense of the art), and scoured Web forums

turned that visit—the first of a long series

including eGullet and the now-defunct Drinkboy forums (later reborn as The Chanticleer Society).

Eventually, I felt ready to share what I’d learned. But with nothing in the way of a relevant resumé or portfolio, I decided to build my own. Around that time, in 2005, culinary blogs were starting to take off, but nobody, it seemed, was publishing a blog

CORPSE REVIVER #2

5 3/4 oz. gin 3/4 oz. lemon juice 3/4 oz. Lillet blanc 3/4 oz. Cointreau 1 dash absinthe

devoted entirely to spirits and cocktails.

The Cocktail Chronicles launched in May of 2005, with a readership of one. As far as I knew (I wasn’t tracking things very thoroughly at the start) that’s the way it

Glass: cocktail Garnish: cherry Method: Shake with ice to chill (see page 24 for details), strain into chilled glass. Garnish.

largely remained until two months later, when I received an e–mail from a new

THE COCKTAIL CHRONICLES 19

Chapter 1: Notes from a Renaissance in Progress over the years—into an education session

developed among those few of us who

for me much more than it was for him. That

bonded over ingredients and recipes online.

first night, we touched on a drink I’d been

Some of the other bloggers were

chewing over on the blog—the Corn ’n’ Oil,

bartenders, like Jamie Boudreau and Jeffrey

a combo of rum and falernum (a spiced

Morgenthaler, who now own or manage

syrup from the Caribbean), and a drink that

some of the more prestigious bars in

nobody as yet seemed to be mixing—and

cocktaildom (Seattle’s Canon: Whiskey and

Murray showed me his approach, twisting

Bitters Emporium and Portland, Oregon’s Clyde Common, respectively). Others were

As fascinating as today’s artisan–driven or tech–savvy craft–cocktail bars can be, there’s also a need for cocktail comfort food—for simple yet exciting drinks that have the benefit of being delicious.

tech professionals who dabbled in cocktails and hoped to do so professionally at some point, such as Erik Ellestad, who mixed every drink in the Savoy Cocktail Book and more recently tended bar at Heaven’s Dog and The Coachman in San Francisco; and Blair Reynolds, now the proprietor of Hale Pele tiki bar in Portland and the producer of an eponymous line of cocktail syrups.

Others sought to take a passing interest

the rum style and tweaking the drink’s

in cocktails and a part–time college job

acidity, resulting in a ridiculously simple yet

behind the bar, and turn it into a full–bore

disarmingly delicious version much different

profession; one was Bobby Heugel, who

from mine.

finished grad school and launched a cocktail

Murray was the first bartender I knew

blog while moving to Houston to work as

of to read The Cocktail Chronicles, and to

a bartender. With several friends, Heugel

engage with me (whether to agree or to

soon opened Anvil, now a James Beard

argue) about the drinks and perspectives I

Award–nominated bar and a mainstay of

shared. But what started as an experiment

Houston’s robust culinary scene.

that could easily be abandoned when I got bored turned out a little different. The

anymore—the social–media world has

hoped-for did happen—my blog posts led to

shifted, and we’ve all become busy at the

paid work, which eventually turned into a

jobs we’ve built, in part, as a result of those

career—but the unexpected also happened.

early posts. But as the cocktail renaissance

The Cocktail Chronicles was among the

started to bloom in 2006 and 2007, and as

first small ripples that preceded a huge

more bars and bartenders started looking

wave of drink–related blogs and websites

for information, we were among the first few

that continues to flood the online world,

voices in a now–roaring crowd.

and in the early years, a close community 20

None of us post on our blogs much

THE COCKTAIL CHRONICLES

Chapter 1: Notes from a Renaissance in Progress

T

en years ago, it was rare to find

Prohibition, America’s deeply entrenched

bartenders who knew a Blood and Sand

drinking patterns were upended; for the

from a Sex on the Beach, or an Aviation

first time, it became widely permissible for

from an Alabama Slammer. Today, you’ll

women to visit bars (or, more accurately,

find bartenders in Little Rock, Spokane,

it was no longer more illicit for women to

and Tampa who won’t flinch when you ask

be drinking than it was for men), and also

for an El Presidente or a Vieux Carre, and

for the first time, people began widely

your Negroni is as apt to come out of a

consuming their cocktails at home, behind

used whiskey barrel—or be served on tap,

closed curtains so that nosy neighbors

or carbonated and bottled, or mixed with a

wouldn’t see. This wasn’t just drinking at

house–made vermouth of the bar manager’s

home—with all the weights and shadows

own design, or selected from an extensive

that implies—but mixing drinks at home,

menu of Negroni variations—as it is to

hosting cocktail parties for friends, or

be served over a diamond–shaped block

simply knocking back a couple with the

of ice hand-carved as part of the bar’s

neighbors at the end of the day, the shoddy

ice program.

or smuggled liquor as intoxicating as the

This is by no means a bad thing. The Zig Zag Café used to be my solitary source of

knowledge that taboos were being broken.

As fascinating as today’s artisan–driven

refuge when I was hankering for a balanced,

or tech–savvy craft–cocktail bars can be,

well–considered drink in Seattle (and is still

there’s also a need for cocktail comfort

where you’ll find me with some regularity),

food—for exciting drinks that have the

but I’m now within walking distance of

benefit of being delicious, and that can

places such as Canon—a bar with one

be easily prepared by non-professionals,

of the hemisphere’s largest selections of

without the need for a $15,000 centrifuge,

American whiskies—as well

a rick of used bourbon barrels in the garage

as specialized bars

for an elaborate home solera system, or

with deep rosters

jars full of bespoke bitters crowding the

of rum (Rumba)

kitchen countertop.

or mezcal (Liberty or Barrio—choices!), staffed by bartenders who

This book is not a lab manual for taking the cocktail experience to a molecular level—there are people much more

have intimate understandings of

qualified to write those, and they have

the spirits on hand and how to

(see Resources, page 190). Nor is this an

use them. As overwhelming as

historical monograph tracing the details

the options are becoming, I’m

of our forebears as they developed the

enthusiastic about having them.

drinks we enjoy today (or forgot about long

But the cocktail experience isn’t confined

ago)—the cocktail realm already has a David

to today’s (or tomorrow’s) best bars. During

Wondrich and a Jeff Berry, determined and

THE COCKTAIL CHRONICLES 21

Chapter 1: Notes from a Renaissance in Progress talented writers who are better suited (and wonderfully engaging) at uncovering the stories of drinks and bars past.

What this aims to be is an approachable guide to the cocktail renaissance thus far,

ABOUT THE DRINKS

Any selection of recipes collected during such a vibrant, creative era is bound to come up short. This one is no different.

While choosing the recipes for this book,

an overview as much as a diversion, and—as

I plumbed my archives, and my memory,

the name implies—a chronicle of a few of

for cocktails that I’d sampled, admired,

the cocktails that have come along the

or meant to try over the past decade of

way. Some are long–established classics,

writing about drinks. The recipes collected

others already on their way to assuming

here are like a photo album of sorts—

a future crown, and still others perhaps

snapshots of people encountered over the

undeservedly overlooked. Regardless of

years, with some close friends and family

the category, each of the drinks I’m passing

members depicted alongside a few dimly

along here is worth at least a few minutes of

remembered strangers, and an unexpected

experimental time in your glass.

photobomb popping up here and there.

Sometimes, you want to inspect a rare

Just as time can blur during a long night

bird you’ve never before encountered—an

out, the timeline in this book has its fair

imaginative mix of a locally distilled gin

share of fuzziness. I’ve split the recipes into

matched with an offbeat Spanish liqueur

chapters of old drinks (Chapter 2) and new

and an equally surprising (and obscure)

drinks (Chapter 4), but a few recipes stray

Italian aperitif, with the cocktail’s flavors

outside their allotted area, drawn tangentially

brought into focus via a few drops of bitters

by an issue or a point I’d like to make into a

prepared by your bartender especially for

realm where they just seem more at home.

this particular drink. That’s awesome—enjoy those birds when you find them, and they are increasingly common.

But sometimes, you just want a decent drink—something that’s agreeable enough, and smart enough, to do the job with which you’ve tasked it, and perhaps interesting

CORN ’N’ OIL

5

2 oz. blackstrap rum 1/2 oz. falernum (see page 125) 1/2 oz. lime juice 1-2 dashes Angostura bitters

enough to break the ice without being so loud or hungry for attention that it spoils the conversation.

A decent, interesting drink? On that point, I’ve got you covered.

Glass: rocks Garnish: lime wedge Method: Build in ice-filled glass (see page 26 for details); stir to chill.

Garnish.

Adapted by Murray Stenson, Seattle

22

THE COCKTAIL CHRONICLES

Chapter 1: Notes from a Renaissance in Progress There’s another important characteristic these drinks share: they’re all reasonably approachable, and replicable by readers playing along at home. Bespoke bitters, shrubs, and syrups are now ubiquitous in craft–cocktail bars, as are centrifuge– separated juices and barrel–aged bells and whistles—and our nights out are usually the better for it. But cocktails should, above all, provide a sense of fun, and demanding that a reader purchase a new product for every recipe or spend hours (or days and weeks) preparing a single ingredient is a sure way to suck the fun right out of it.

Conversations rarely occur with the

There are a few ingredients included that

topics arranged in alphabetical order,

you can make in your kitchen, but where

or broken down by commonalities that

possible, commercial alternatives are

nevertheless feel arbitrary and irrelevant

recommended. And spirits and ingredients

to the matter at hand. I’ve embraced

were selected with an eye to utility—there

this more-or-less randomness with the

are a few exceptions, but for the most part,

arrangement of the drinks in this book,

any ingredient you see listed may be used in

following themes and undercurrents that

a number of recipes in the book.

I found more compelling than simple

When I first embarked on my cocktail quest,

organization based on a drink name’s

I approached written recipes as sacrosanct.

alphabetical order, or the drink’s base

In hindsight, that was kind of stupid. All

spirit or general style. Should you desire

recipes—especially for cocktails—should be

greater ease of navigation (or simply need

adjusted (or abandoned) depending on the

to quickly get your drink on), flip to the

tastes of those on the receiving end. The

Recipe Guide on page 6 or the Spirit–Based

proportions and measurements in this book

Index on page 194.

largely follow established formulae, but are

Some of the drinks collected here may

also tweaked to satisfy my own personal

seem old hat to those who continually

preferences. If you like your drinks drier, or

cruise the cutting edge, and there are some

sweeter, or stronger than the way I have them

favorites and classics, both old and new,

presented, then feel free to stray from the

that I’ve managed to snub along the way.

written recipes. It’s your drink, after all—mix

But what these drinks share is a common

to your tastes, not mine.

deliciousness, and a role, big or small, in the ongoing cocktail renaissance.

Life is complicated—a good drink doesn’t have to be. Please, enjoy…

THE COCKTAIL CHRONICLES 23

Chapter 1: Notes from a Renaissance in Progress

BASIC COCKTAIL TECHNIQUE Some bartenders spend their careers

Shaken Cocktails

refining drink–mixing technique, and even

Shaking chills a drink and adds

after more than a decade of cocktail

dilution from the ice—essential

devotion, I’m still learning new approaches.

requirements for a good

Here are some basic steps to get you

cocktail—while also aerating the

started mixing the drinks in this book—and

ingredients for a lively result.

be sure to look at the Cocktail Gear section

The general “shake vs. stir” rule

(page 173) to get the right tools for the job.

of thumb is to shake drinks that

To fully matriculate in bar technique, check

include citrus juice or egg whites,

out Jeffrey Morgenthaler’s The Bar Book,

and to stir drinks composed

devoted entirely to the practice.

entirely of spirits, wines, and liqueurs (syrups are usually

Measuring

lumped into liqueurs). Regardless

Some bartenders never

of the style of shaker you’re using, add the

measure ingredients—

ingredients to the shaker first, then use

instead, they free-

plenty of ice (fill the shaker at least 3/4 full),

pour when mixing

and shake with vigor for about 10 seconds

a cocktail. They’ve

to reach the full effect.

often honed the skill over hours and years of practice and repetition;

The “dry shake”: If your drink contains egg

when mixing at home (or until you’ve

whites, cream, or other viscous or hard-to-

perfected the technique), it’s always best

combine ingredients, try the so-called “dry

to measure. Precision is needed to achieve

shake”: after adding your ingredients to the

a workable balance; jiggers are the time–

shaker and before filling it with ice, seal

honored way of measuring ingredients, but

the shaker and give it a good 10–second

they take a little practice—and you may wish

round of shaking—this can help emulsify the

to use two jiggers of different sizes to cover

ingredients and boost the froth component—

the range of measurements you’ll encounter.

then add the ice and give it another good,

Graduated measures such as the OXO

solid 10 seconds of shaking.

angled measure or the banded jiggers from Cocktail Kingdom

Straining shaken drinks: Even if you’re

are more accurate measurement

using a cobbler shaker—the kind that has

tools. Regardless of your choice,

the little built-in strainer on the top—it’s a

you should measure cocktail ingredients religiously.

good idea to invest in a Hawthorne strainer, the perforated, paddle–shaped tool with a spring around the edges. The spring coil should fit snugly inside the lip of your

24

THE COCKTAIL CHRONICLES

Chapter 1: Notes from a Renaissance in Progress shaker; hold the strainer’s body in place with

fingers as the bowl remains parallel with the

your index and middle fingers, and hold the

curved sides of the glass. It should make

shaker body with your thumb and remaining

barely a sound, aside from a steady whir

fingers; then, without dropping everything

and stray tinkle of metal against glass—if

on the floor, pour your shaken cocktail into

the ice is rattling and the liquid is splashing,

your glass. By scroonching your fingers back

you’re doing it wrong. It’s best to stir a

and forth on the strainer, you can make

cocktail longer than you’d shake one—20 to

a wider or narrower gap (an “open gate”

25 seconds is usually optimal.

or “closed gate” in bartender parlance) for the drink to pour through, either speeding

Straining stirred drinks: After you’ve

up the pour or slowing it down to limit the

stirred a Martini with effortless grace, it’s

passage of solids such as ice chips.

considered bad form to then strain the drink through your fingers. You could use

Double-straining: For some drinks—those

your Hawthorne strainer, but a better bet is

that have mint shaken into them, for

to pick up a julep strainer, which resembles

example—it’s wise to employ the “double

a round, oversized spoon perforated with

strain”: shake and strain the drink as usual,

holes. The strainer should fit inside the

except while pouring from the shaker and

glass—position the concave side toward the

Hawthorne strainer with one hand, use the

ice, so it functions as a scoop to hold the ice

other hand to hold a fine–meshed strainer

back—then hold the strainer in place with

just above the serving glass. This should

your index finger while pouring the drink

filter every last solid from the drink.

into the serving glass.

Stirred Cocktails

Muddling

Stirring accomplishes the same goals as

Fresh herbs, fruits, or spices are sometimes

shaking—chilling and dilution—but limits

mixed directly into drinks; these are times

the aeration, resulting in drinks that have

when you need to muddle. A wooden

a clearer, more aesthetically pleasing

cocktail muddler is the best tool for the job,

appearance, and that feel smoother on

but you can also get by with a large wooden

the palate. Combine the ingredients in a mixing glass and fill almost to the top with ice, then slide your bar spoon down the

spoon or the end of a French rolling pin. There’s a lot of common sense about muddling—basically you’re just using a hard

inside of the glass and commence to

thing to crush a soft thing—but it requires

stir. Because the aim is to chill the

a little finesse. Mint benefits from a light

drink without bashing it to bits in

muddle before mixing a Julep, Smash, or

a shaker, employ restraint. The bar spoon

similar drink, but it needs a light hand—too

should usher the ice around in a constant

much mashing will turn the herbs to paste,

circle, the spoon’s stem spinning in your

resulting in an unwanted bitterness from the

THE COCKTAIL CHRONICLES 25

Chapter 1: Notes from a Renaissance in Progress leaves and stems as well as flecks of green

stick all the way to the bottom and position

in your teeth. Instead, mint and basil benefit

the end of the stem between the palms of

more from lightly bruising the leaves with a

your hands. Move your hands in opposite

muddler, and swabbing the glass’s interior

directions, causing the spoon or stick to

with the leaves to coat it with the

spin in the drink; continue for at least 30

plant’s aromatic oils. Other muddle-

seconds, adding ice if needed. When frost

ables, on the other hand, can stand a

forms on the outside of the glass, remove

little vigor—a sugar cube moistened

the spoon and add more crushed ice to fill.

with bitters and water needs some work in order to dissolve the sugar

Citrus Twists

for an Old Fashioned, and some

Lemons, oranges, and grapefruits (and, to

fruits, spices, and coffee beans only

a much lesser extent, limes) have oils in

give up most of their flavor after

the zest (the colored part of the peel) that

some enthusiastic pounding. When

can contribute desirable flavors and

muddling herbs, fruits or spices, it

aromas; however, the white part of

helps to add a bit of liquid—usually

the peel—the pith—carries gnarly,

the syrup called for in the recipe—

bitter flavors. You can remove a

as this provides a medium for the

good strip of zest with as little

muddled ingredient to contribute its flavor.

pith as possible using a paring knife, but it’s best attempted with a

Building Drinks

vegetable peeler, which can cut a broad,

Building a cocktail is as simple as it

long (11/2 to 2 inches works well) piece of

sounds: take the ingredients and skip the

zest with minimal pith. (Channel knives—

shaking and stirring altogether, instead just

those with a small, V-shaped blade that

measuring and pouring directly into the

cut long, thick, narrow strips of peel—tend

serving glass. Voila—mixology.

to remove too much pith. Besides, those garnishes kind of look like worms.) Use

26

Swizzling

organic, unwaxed fruit if possible, and cut

Some drinks are swizzled with crushed

the twist just before serving so it remains

ice until very cold. You’ll need a bar

fresh and firm. (You can do minor surgery on

spoon (a regular kitchen spoon

the twist for aesthetic purposes, trimming

won’t work), or a specialized lele

the edges and straightening the lines with

twig (a long stick—wood, plastic,

a knife, if you like.) To express the oil, twist

metal, etc.—with several short

the cut zest into a corkscrew shape while

branches on the end). Build the

holding it about an inch above the drink’s

drink in your tall glass and fill

surface and just over the lip of the glass.

it with crushed ice; stick

Use as garnish, or not, depending on your

the bar spoon or swizzle

mood and the drink at hand.

THE COCKTAIL CHRONICLES

Chapter 1: Notes from a Renaissance in Progress

Flamed Twists

first in water, then in vermouth—and keep

A few drinks require minor pyrotechnics

chilled until ready to use.

with the twist, which adds a subtle nudge

“Wheels” of lime or lemon are exactly

of flavor from the scorched citrus oils, along

what they sound like—thin, round slices of

with a floor–show component. To flame a

citrus, cut just before serving.

twist, hold your prepared citrus twist in one hand while positioning the flame of a

Be Gentle with Bubbles

lit match about an inch above the rim of

Drinks such as the French 75 and the Old

the serving glass. Briskly squeeze the citrus

Cuban have Champagne added to the

twist so the oils spray through the flame

cocktail. The longstanding practice has been

and across the drink’s surface; blow out the

to prepare the cocktail and strain it into the

match and proceed as usual.

serving glass, then add the Champagne at the end. This is still the usual approach,

Other Garnishes

but in an effort to better combine

Aside from citrus twists and mint sprigs,

the ingredients while

most garnishes lend little beyond eye candy

preserving the bubbles,

to the finished drink. But there’s nothing

some bartenders

wrong with eye candy—just be sure that

instead add the

the garnish doesn’t distract from all your

Champagne to the shaker

hard work. Supermarket–style maraschino

just before straining, then strain the whole

cherries and giant olives stuffed with garlic

shebang into the prepared glass—while others

cloves or blue cheese have no role in a

add the Champagne to the chilled glass first,

decent cocktail—save those for your kid’s

then strain the cocktail on top. Try 'em all, and

sundaes or the snack table. If you wish to

see what works best for you.

use cherries as garnish, opt for the dark, tart Italian cherries (the original maraschino

A Few Words on Freshness

cherries, before the food scientists got

When bartenders get together around a

in the way) prepared by brands such as

campfire to tell scary stories, one–armed

Luxardo, or rummage online for a DIY recipe

hitchhikers and ghostly figures in the forest

for brandied cherries. Olives and cocktail

rarely inspire much fear. But start telling

onions have aesthetic appeal, though their sour salinity and room– temperature storage conditions can ruin an exactingly prepared Martini or Gibson. If you choose to use such garnishes, give them a good rinse—

tales about bartending’s bad–old days—a time of sour mix and soda guns, with waxy maraschino cherries as far as the eye can see, and nary a fresh lemon or lime in sight—and even the boldest badass feels a nervous shiver down her spine…

One of the great advances of the cocktail renaissance has been a return to the time

THE COCKTAIL CHRONICLES 27

Chapter 1: Notes from a Renaissance in Progress when bartenders had little choice but to

front, so can any home bartender. Many

squeeze their own fruit and utilize fresh

recipes in this book call for lemon or

produce in order to best serve the throngs

lime juice; freshness is the norm, and

of thirsty guests. In a way, this freshness–

the expectation, and your cocktails will

first embrace mirrors what’s long been

always be better if you squeeze your

happening in restaurant kitchens and many

citrus to order (or no longer than a few

homes—but while the bar world may have

hours before serving, if mixing for a party)—

taken its time to get on board, it’s now

pre–bottled citrus juices are crap, and should be avoided at all costs. Other fruits

One of the great advances of the cocktail renaissance has been a return to the time when bartenders had little choice but to squeeze their own fruit and utilize fresh produce in order to best serve the throngs of thirsty guests.

that are occasionally called for—pineapples, raspberries, and the like—also benefit from a fresh approach, as do herbs such as mint and basil; buy them when you need them, and use them promptly. And for reasons that are probably obvious, cocktails that call for eggs, milk, or cream will be ghastly liquid horrorshows if you ignore the importance of freshness.

And freshness extends to the other ingredients that go into your drinks.

making up for the delay with overwhelming

Wine–based aperitifs such as vermouth and

enthusiasm. Ten years ago, it was still a

quinquinas benefit from refrigeration after

surprise to find a bar juicing its own citrus

being opened, and should always be properly

before service; today, even my local dive has

sealed and consumed within a few weeks,

a Vollrath juicer on the bar, and the idea of

before time and oxidation can take their toll.

serving preservative–packed mixers strikes

Eschewing the food scientist’s preservative

many as about as appealing as dumping

arts means that most homemade syrups

ashtrays (another endangered bar species)

also have a limited life span; keep them in

into a guest’s drinks.

the fridge, as well, and toss them after a

If bars that serve hundreds of cocktails each night can deliver on the freshness

28

THE COCKTAIL CHRONICLES

couple of weeks, before colonies of fuzzy freeloaders start developing in the bottle.

Chapter 1: Notes from a Renaissance in Progress

7 GLASSWARE 8 Drinking a well-crafted cocktail should at least hint at your civilized side, and that’s where proper glassware comes into play. Start with the essentials—a rocks glass, a cocktail glass (the V-shaped style is poorly balanced—it’s better to use a classic coupe glass or a Nick and Nora cocktail glass), and a highball glass—and build from there according to your needs and your tastes. (See Resources on p. 190 for suggestions on retailers.) And unless your drink is served with ice in the glass, be sure to chill the serving glass before using.

Rocks

Coupe (cocktail)

Nick and Nora (cocktail)

Collins

Highball

Fizz

Sour

Goblet

Julep Cup

Pontarlier

Chimney

Champagne Flute

Tiki Mug

Moscow Mule Mug

THE COCKTAIL CHRONICLES 29

,

I

Not Forgotten Not Forgotten CHAPTER 2

Familiar classics and back-from-the-dead obscurities

E

ven during the darkest years of the cocktail–arid 1970s—a time when bar menus were populated by the bibulous equivalents of Roller Boogie and Disco Duck—old standards like the Old Fashioned or the Martini never really disappeared at all.

Most others, though, weren’t so lucky. You could still get a Tom Collins or a Whiskey Sour in most places, to be sure, and New Orleans never gave up on its Sazeracs. But plenty of cocktails made their way into shakers and glasses—and into print—between Jerry Thomas’ 1860s heyday and the turned–on, tuned–in, dropped–out 1960s. Most of those drinks had justifiably short life spans; but among the detritus of our cocktail history, there were still a number of gems that were waiting to be uncovered.

In 2004, Los Angeles–based cocktail historian Ted Haigh—known to the libationally literate as “Dr. Cocktail”—published Vintage Spirits and Forgotten Cocktails, the product of his extensive forays into the dust– covered shelves of mixology. That book put countless shakers in motion— mine included—as bartenders and cocktail enthusiasts began once again tasting recipes rarely mixed for generations. Along the way, further fueled by the history–tuned work of David Wondrich’s Imbibe!, many began their own explorations of the lost–booze literature, and today’s cocktail menus are filled with some of the trophies of these excursions.

Many of these unearthed drinks are now mainstays of the craft–cocktail renaissance—some enjoying fresh life close to their original form, and others having required a little recipe fine-tuning to bring them fully up to speed. And while this chapter is devoted to drinks that mostly originated before any of today’s craft bartenders were born, I’ve sprinkled in a few newcomers that riff on, and replicate, the style of cocktails we’ve come to think of as classics.

31

GIMLET GIMLET

Chapter 2: Not Forgotten

Comfort sometimes comes in the form of gin and lime.

GIMLET

Nobody celebrates an engagement, a promotion, or a spectacular Saturday

2 oz. gin 1/2 oz. lime cordial

with a Gimlet. But a breakup? The end of a workday with no more than the usual screwups? A crappy Wednesday? Those are the times when you need a Gimlet.

Glass: cocktail Garnish: thin lime wedge Method: Shake with ice to chill; strain into chilled glass. Garnish.

The Gimlet was a favored drink of Raymond Chandler, who put many of them in the hands of Philip Marlowe (and the doomed Terry Lennox) in the pages of The Long Goodbye. This seems fitting; with a base of gin (you can use vodka, but that’d be like recasting Shia LaBeouf in the role Humphrey Bogart made famous), and lime cordial, and nothing else, the Gimlet has the color of bad luck and resignation, and a character leaning to jaded and slightly seedy, like Robert Mitchum in worn–at–heel wingtips and a suit jacket gone shiny with age.

The Gimlet also has a little problem. As Lennox notes to Marlowe, a real Gimlet is nothing but gin and Rose’s Lime Juice (“they beat Martinis hollow,” says Lennox, a man who knew his beatings and his booze). But Rose’s long ago followed the High Fructose Corn Syrup (HFCS) route, and a drink wellsuited to assuaging disappointment now just tastes disappointing.

Some substitute fresh lime juice and sugar, but really, that’s just a Gin Sour or a Gin Fix with lime—not bad, but not a Gimlet. Instead, track down some honest lime cordial, which has the tartness of the juice along with a little gamey bitterness from the peel; check the Cocktail Kitchen (page 187) for sources or instructions to make your own.

The Gimlet is more meditative than festive, more brooding than congratulatory. It may never share the Daiquiri’s sense of abandon, but on a lonely afternoon, it can be a most suitable companion.

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THE COCKTAIL CHRONICLES

FRENCH 75 FRENCH 75

Chapter 2: Not Forgotten

Garnish with an artillery barrage.

You might expect that a cocktail named after a deadly piece of World

FRENCH 75

War I field artillery would be a nasty little ass-kicker: some combo of

1 oz. gin 1/2 oz. lemon juice 1/2 oz. simple syrup 2 oz. chilled Champagne

overproof rum, absinthe, and sketchy mezcal, loosened up with a little kerosene and garnished with a cracked rib.

But some guns pack a little glitter into the shell. Sure, the French 75 can carry enough bang to have you singing “How You Gonna Keep ‘Em Down on the Farm After They’ve Seen Paree?” by the third round, but it’s such a sultry and approachable drink that it seems to bear little malice until you notice your watch missing the next morning.

Assorted origin stories trace the French 75 to WWI–era London or Paris.

The definitive place and date of its original manufacture will likely never

Glass: cocktail or highball Garnish: lemon twist Method: Shake first three ingredients with ice to chill; strain into chilled cocktail glass or ice–filled highball glass, and top with Champagne; give a light stir to combine. Garnish.

be known, but one thing is certain:

The French 75 is liquid proof that Champagne makes everything better.

the French 75 is liquid proof that

HOWITZER

Champagne makes everything

11/2 oz. bourbon 1/2 oz. lemon juice 1/2 oz. simple syrup 1 dash peach bitters 2 oz. chilled Champagne

better. In this case, it’s nothing more than a basic Gin Sour stretched out and amplified with a dose of bubbles. The drink may be served

up, in a cocktail glass or champagne flute, but for better results, aim long— pour it over ice in a highball glass, and sip your way to kingdom come.

The French 75 is also ripe for further exploration, as cocktail–renaissance

Glass: cocktail Garnish: lemon twist

cocktail bar Cure in New Orleans—a city with a bar named for the drink, and

Method: Shake first four ingredients with ice to chill; strain into chilled glass. Top with Champagne; give a light stir to combine. Garnish.

known for reinterpreting it with brandy in place of gin—Neal Bodenheimer

Neal Bodenheimer, New Orleans

bartenders have shown. For the opening menu for the paradigm–shifting

retooled the cocktail using single–barrel bourbon and peach bitters, dubbing the impressive result the Howitzer.

Fire at will.

THE COCKTAIL CHRONICLES 33

Chapter 2: Not Forgotten

GIN

Booze with a backbone.

Gin’s been a favorite among everyone from W.C. Fields to Winston Churchill

ALASKA COCKTAIL

5

21/2 oz. gin 3/4 oz. yellow Chartreuse 2 dashes orange bitters

to Dorothy Parker—and when you consider the rivers of liquor that coursed down those three particular throats, this comes as high endorsement.

Julia Child was a fan of gin, too, which speaks to the spirit’s culinary qualities, and while it’s certainly possible that without gin, cocktails would still exist, the bar would be a place barren of much imagination without the juniper–spiked spirit.

Glass: cocktail Garnish: lemon twist Method: Stir with ice to chill; strain into chilled glass. Garnish.

In a grossly overstated sort of way, gin is nothing more than flavored vodka—but what flavors! The only absolute in gin’s botanical equation is the presence of juniper. Airy and crisp, and evocative of an alpine arbor (and, thanks to its use in gin, of your Martini–quaffing uncle), juniper has centuries of influence under its belt as both a culinary and an apothecary ingredient.

The round, purplish juniper berry (more accurately, a scaly seed cone) crept into the first gin prototypes starting in the 1500s, probably introduced not only for medicinal value but to mask the rougher edges of what surely must have been some very coarse base spirit.

But juniper rarely appears in gin on its own, and this is where much of the dazzling diversity in the spirit can be found. Citrus peel, orris root, and angelica are frequent companions, lending touches ranging from bright and ethereal to deep and earthy; familiar spices such as coriander, cardamom, and licorice are not uncommon, and some contemporary gins utilize everything from almonds to lavender to cucumbers to apples to create distinctive strains of the spirit.

This presents a dilemma. When a recipe says “gin,” exactly what kind of gin does it mean? As with Modern art, pornography, and Quentin Tarentino movies, the dividing line between “OMG!” and “WTF?!” will vary according to the user.

In order to determine which gin direction to go for a particular drink, it’s helpful to briefly consider the different major styles that are available—but keep in mind, even within each category, there’s often lots of variety to

34

THE COCKTAIL CHRONICLES

Chapter 2: Not Forgotten

be found. Sussing out the differences between individual gins will require plenty of pitchers of Martinis and bottles of tonic water, but this kind of research is what makes cocktail exploration so fun.

London Dry Gin The hallmark style of gin, defined by its crisp smack of juniper and the brisk background of botanicals, all built upon a base of neutral grain spirit. While London dry may be the style most often intended when we speak of gin, it’s actually a more recent addition to the spirit’s ranks, having originated in the 1820s and rising to prominence in the 1880s, a takeover that accelerated with the debut of the dry Martini around the turn of the last century.

London dry is the gin for a Gin & Tonic and is a dependable go-to in a classic Martini, and has a flexible flavor that’s at home in everything from a carefree

LEAVE IT TO ME

5

11/2 oz. Old Tom gin 1 Tbsp. lemon juice 2 tsp. raspberry syrup 2 tsp. maraschino liqueur 1 tsp. simple syrup

Glass: cocktail Garnish: thin slice of lemon Method: Shake with ice to chill; strain into chilled glass.

Garnish.

Pink Lady (page 69) or Ramos Fizz (page 150 to such stiff-upper-lip mixtures as a Negroni (page 117) or a Gimlet (page 32). London dry is not a fossilized style: Venerable brands such as Tanqueray and Beefeater remain mainstays, but newer brands such as No. 3 Gin and Sipsmith prove there’s still spirit in London dry’s seasoned game. See the Liquor Cabinet (page 177) for more recommended brands.

Plymouth Gin Named for the English city in which it must, by law, be distilled, this style of gin is today represented by a single brand, also conveniently named Plymouth. Dry and crisp, Plymouth gin bears many similarities to the more ubiquitous London dry, but the aroma and flavor have less prominent of a juniper presence, with a perfumed airiness and a savory earthiness picking up the slack.

Plymouth is perfect in a Martini and most other drinks in which the gin’s flavor takes center stage, and it functions well in any

THE COCKTAIL CHRONICLES 35

Chapter 2: Not Forgotten

Gin (continued) cocktail that typically uses London dry. Keep an eye out for the 114-proof

CLARIDGE COCKTAIL

5 1 oz. gin 1 oz. dry vermouth 1/4 oz. apricot liqueur 1/4 oz. Cointreau

Glass: cocktail Method: Stir with ice to chill; strain into chilled glass.

Plymouth Navy Strength, a muscular gin that gives up none of its delicate nature. And while not, strictly speaking, a Plymouth gin, Ford’s Gin is similar in character, and in deliciousness.

Old Tom Gin A crazy–popular style of gin near the end of the 19th century, Old Tom was all but extinct by the end of the 20th. The cocktail renaissance’s quest to recover once–lost ingredients prompted Old Tom’s recent return, and today this companionable style of spirit has a presence on many back bars. Constructed much like a London dry, Old Tom usually has juniper’s forwardness but a different balance of background botanicals, and its defining character—a gentle sweetness—makes it a preferred style in a small subset of the cocktail world. The Martinez (page 114) is a good way to

SLEEPY HOLLOW

5 2 oz. gin 1/2 oz. lemon juice 1/4 oz. apricot liqueur 1/4 oz. simple syrup 1 sprig fresh mint

Glass: cocktail Method: Shake with ice to chill; double-strain into chilled glass.

experience Old Tom’s particular charms, as is a Tom Collins (page 62) or an Ephemeral (page 37), from Portland, Oregon bartender Dave Shenaut. See the Liquor Cabinet (page 177) for recommended brands.

Contemporary Gin As the 20th century gave way to the 21st, distillers increasingly began tinkering again with gin, creating what’s now a hodgepodge of spirits that’s sometimes referred to as New Western gin, but is perhaps more conveniently thought of by the more generic term Contemporary gin.

Whatever you wish to call the category, this fast–growing part of the gin world encompasses everything from the cucumber–and–rose–petal brightness of Hendrick’s Gin from Scotland to the lavender-laced aromatics of Aviation Gin from Portland, Oregon. Often eschewing juniper’s boldness for the lighter flavors of citrus and flowers (or the depths of roots and spice), this broad category of gin can be thought of in cocktail terms as “all, or none, of the above”—some work extraordinarily well in certain recipes, and not at all in others. Proceed with caution, but do proceed—there’s a lot of flavorful goodness to be found.

36

THE COCKTAIL CHRONICLES

Chapter 2: Not Forgotten

Genever It may seem unfair to list gin’s ancestral Adam as the last on this list, but just as gin has evolved from Old Tom and London dry to the flood of Contemporary gins, genever has remained largely in stasis, and is a mystery or an afterthought in most American bars. For shame—genever (aka Holland gin) still enjoys a degree of fame in its native Netherlands and Belgium, and was a formative ingredient in the cocktail’s earliest years. Made using a

EPHEMERAL

5

11/2 oz. Old Tom gin 1 oz. blanc vermouth 2 tsp. elderflower liqueur 3 dashes celery bitters

base of malt wine—rich and heavy, where London dry gin is crisp and dry— genever shares a juniper forwardness, but its character is more fragrant and

Glass: cocktail

funky, like unaged whiskey boosted with a little Hanseatic jazz. Mix a Martini

Garnish: grapefruit twist

with genever and you’ll be suprised; but try it in an Improved Holland Gin Cocktail (page 108) or Holland Gin Daisy (below), and you’ll get a glimpse of how the excitement for this cocktail thing first came about.

HOLLAND GIN DAISY

5 11/2 oz. genever 3/4 oz. lemon juice 3/4 oz. curaçao 2 tsp. club soda

Method: Stir with ice to chill; strain into chilled glass.

Garnish.

Dave Shenaut, Portland, Oregon

GABY DES LYS

5

2 oz. gin 1/2 oz. orgeat 2 dashes absinthe 2 dashes Angostura bitters

Glass: cocktail Glass: cocktail Garnish: lemon twist Method: Shake with ice to chill; strain into chilled glass.

Garnish.

Method: Shake with ice to chill; strain into chilled glass.

Adapted by Jennifer Colliau, San Francisco

THE COCKTAIL CHRONICLES 37

Chapter 2: Not Forgotten

honey

Cocktail hints from the hive.

Introducing the honey pot to the cocktail shaker can inspire Winnie the Pooh flashbacks in some, but I, for one, welcome the arrival of the drinks cart in my own personal Hundred Acre Wood.

Perhaps fearing the infantilizing of their evening soother, skeptics may view the use of honey in a drink as strictly kid’s stuff. Such naysayers (pooh-poohers?) should be avoided during cocktail hour, because while honey does have the intense sweetness that first dazzled our childhood tastebuds, it also has a rugged boldness of flavor that meshes magically with those found in the spirits realm.

Prohibition–era tipplers sanded the rough edges off bad gin by mixing it with lemon juice and honey to make the Bee’s Knees, and other early and mid-20th century drinks made trips to the honeycomb de rigueur—as evinced by the Scotch whisky–laced De Rigueur, which appeared in 1927’s Here’s How, and by its American kin, the Brown Derby, named for the Los Angeles restaurants popular in the mid–20th century. Honey’s flower–driven flavor power also caught the eye of drinks scribe Charles H. Baker, Jr., who utilized it in the rum–based Bumble Bee; try the improved version shown here, by San Francisco bartender Erik Adkins.

Using honey in a cocktail requires less caution than that required to squeeze it from a bee: just be sure to measure carefully (as always), and

viscous sugar dissolves. Even better: make a bottle of honey syrup (see page 186) and stow it in the fridge; it’ll help make your cocktail party the most happening thing in Pooh Corner.

38

THE COCKTAIL CHRONICLES

5

11/2 oz. mild Jamaican rum 1/2 oz. bold Jamaican rum 3/4 oz. lime juice 3/4 oz. honey syrup 1/2 oz. egg white

BROWN DERBY

5 2 oz. bourbon 1 oz. grapefruit juice 1/2 oz. honey syrup

give the shaker an extra few swirls or stirs before adding ice to ensure the

BUMBLE BEE

Glass: cocktail Method: Shake with ice to chill; strain into chilled glass.

Variation: Swap blended Scotch whisky for the bourbon, and you’ve got a De Rigueur.

Glass: cocktail Garnish: Angostura bitters, orange twist Method: Combine ingredients in shaker and dry shake without ice until foamy; add ice and shake well to chill. Strain into chilled glass; dot surface with Angostura bitters; squeeze orange twist over drink and discard.

Adapted by Erik Adkins, San Francisco

LAST WORD LAST WORD

Chapter 2: Not Forgotten

A long–lost oddball becomes a global superstar.

For a once-obscure cocktail, the Last Word sure gets around.

At the turn of the millennium, the Last Word was absent from pretty much every bar menu in the world. But shortly after Seattle’s Zig Zag Café added Murray Stenson to its bartender roster in 2001, Stenson went rummaging through his library of midcentury bar manuals in search of menu ideas that would help Zig Zag stand out from the Cosmo–pouring crowd.

Long a fan of the French herbal

Assuming nobody had served the Last Word in 50 years, Murray Stenson put it on Zig Zag’s menu and stood back to see what would happen.

liqueur Chartreuse, Stenson

LAST WORD 3/4 oz. gin 3/4 oz. lime juice 3/4 oz. green Chartreuse 3/4 oz. maraschino liqueur

Glass: cocktail Method: Shake with ice to chill; strain into chilled glass.

noticed a promising recipe in the pages of Bottoms Up, Ted Saucier’s 1951 book of drink recipes (and risque illustrations), the drink details compiled from hotels and restaurants across the country.

According to Saucier, the Last Word recipe traced to the Detroit Athletic

Club, and was introduced to them by vaudeville performer Frank Fogarty.

Assuming (probably correctly) that nobody had served the Last Word in 50 years, Stenson put it on Zig Zag’s list, and stood back to see what would happen.

Today, the Last Word graces bar menus from Sydney to Amsterdam to Spokane. The drink has offshoots and variations (including those on page 158), which you can order from virtually any craft–cocktail bar worldwide, including the bars in Edinburgh, Scotland; Christchurch, New Zealand; San Antonio, Texas; Ann Arbor, Michigan; and Livermore, California that have taken the Last Word as their namesake.

Four ingredients, in equal parts, and impressively delicious—how did we get along without this for so many years?

THE COCKTAIL CHRONICLES 39

HANKY PANKY HANKY PANKY Chapter 2: Not Forgotten

Gin and vermouth tame the bitter beast.

HANKY PANKY

Fernet-Branca can be a beneficent bully. An Italian liqueur crafted as a

2 oz. gin 1 oz. sweet vermouth 1/4 oz. Fernet-Branca

digestive in the mid-19th century, Fernet-Branca is made with botanicals

Glass: cocktail Garnish: orange twist Method: Stir ingredients with ice to chill; strain into chilled glass. Garnish.

including saffron and rhubarb, cardamom and chamomile. In concert, these ingredients perform a feat of gastro-wizardry, adeptly dispelling the digestive maladies that come from overindulgence.

That’s the beneficent part—and the bully? Fernet-Branca’s elbow–throwing onslaught of eucalyptus–laced bitterness can be so extreme that at first encounter, it may be wise to establish a safe word.

The Hanky Panky appeals to this petulant bear’s soft side. Originating in London in the early 20th century, the Hanky Panky was first crafted by Ada Coleman at the Savoy Hotel’s American Bar. Matching Fernet-Branca’s brusque boldness with the more delicate botanical tones of gin and sweet vermouth, the drink matches and softens the liqueur’s assertive tones. In this medium, Fernet-Branca still isn’t quite cuddly—but it’s definitely fun to

CREOLE CONTENTMENT CREOLE CONTENTMENT be around.

Madeira and brandy prove the best of friends.

CREOLE CONTENTMENT

The history of the cocktail abounds with individuals whose influence hasn’t

11/2 oz. brandy 1 oz. madeira 1/2 oz. maraschino liqueur 1 dash orange bitters

been truly felt until the modern day. Prime example: Charles H. Baker, Jr.,

Glass: cocktail Garnish: cherry Method: Stir ingredients with ice; strain into chilled glass. Garnish.

a journalist, globetrotter, and bon vivant fully deserving of legend, whose mid-20th century writings on food and drink risked extinction until the craft– cocktail renaissance revived his once–flagging legacy.

Baker deserves his own entry here—you’ll find it on page 51—but here’s a taste of something he introduced: the Creole Contentment. As Baker wrote in his Gentleman’s Companion from 1939, his introduction to this drink came by way of an Episcopal bishop from Washington, though it purportedly originated in New Orleans—a city also deserving of its own entry (see page 90).

40

THE COCKTAIL CHRONICLES

SHERRY COBBLER SHERRY COBBLER

Chapter 2: Not Forgotten

A 19th century favorite is ready for its 21st century close-up.

In 1888, “Where Did You Get That Hat?” was setting crowds on fire after its

SHERRY COBBLER

debut at Miner’s Eighth Avenue Theatre, Levi P. Morton was elected Vice

4 oz. sherry 1 Tbsp. sugar, to taste 2 slices orange

President of the United States, and—according to barman Harry Johnson in that year’s edition of his Bartenders’ Manual—the Sherry Cobbler was “without doubt the most popular beverage in the country.”

Ask a musician today to hum a few bars of the onetime hit, or a politician for his thoughts on Morton’s legacy, and you’ll likely draw a blank stare. But ask a craft–cocktail bartender for a Sherry Cobbler, and you’ll probably be greeted with a short lesson on the beauty of sherry, as well as one hell of a drink.

One of the simplest drinks to come out of the 19th century, the Cobbler is nothing more than a glass of sweetened wine, served over pebble-size crushed ice (likely the “cobble” in the Cobbler) and prettied up with citrus

Glass: Collins Garnish: mint sprig, lemon wheel, berries in season Method: Shake ingredients (including orange slices) with ice to chill; double–strain into Collins glass filled with crushed ice. Garnish.

Variations: Pretty much any fortified wine (or unfortified, for that matter) will work in a Cobbler—just tweak the sugar accordingly.

slices and fresh berries. Sherry was the reigning king of the Cobbler, but French reds, German whites and even dessert wines and Champagne were fair game (as were whiskey or brandy, but really, the Cobbler is wine’s prime turf).

A firm handshake compared to a cocktail’s hearty backslap, the Cobbler deserves its return not only because of its low– octane agreeability, but because of its approachability of flavor.

Today’s craft bartenders have already caught on—Bellocq, which opened in New Orleans in 2011, built its menu around the basic Cobbler—and it’s just as welcome at home. Aim for a drier style of sherry—I like amontillado or oloroso in mine—but you can skew sweet with a Pedro Ximenez; just remember to pull back on the added sugar. And don’t skimp on the berries—such simple drinks appreciate the extra adornment.

THE COCKTAIL CHRONICLES 41

BLOOD AND BLOOD AND SAND SAND Chapter 2: Not Forgotten

Spoiler alert: the recipe includes neither.

BLOOD AND SAND 1 oz. blended Scotch whisky 1 oz. orange juice 3/4 oz. sweet vermouth 3/4 oz. Cherry Heering

Glass: cocktail Garnish: cherry Method: Shake ingredients with ice to chill; strain into chilled glass.

Garnish.

Tips: Give the whisky’s power a jolt by bumping the Scotch to 11/2 oz. and dropping everything else to 3/4 oz., or keep the above proportions and instead swap a blended malt like Great King Street or a single malt like Highland Park 12 for the blended Scotch. You can also add a teaspoon of lemon juice to give it a little more pep, or substitute blood–orange juice for the OJ. And if you put a slice of orange in the shaker before mixing, it’ll give the cocktail an added—and welcome—dimension.

Some legacies deserve permanence, while others could use a little cleanup.

On the permanence side there’s Rudolf Valentino, the actor who, in 1922, starred as an ill–fated matador in Blood and Sand. In 1926, just a few years before the advent of talkies would destroy the careers of many of his costars, Valentino shared that Blood and Sand was his favorite of his films; a few days later, he was dead from peritonitis, leaving only the legacy of a dashingly handsome star who would never age, and whose voice would never be heard.

The Blood and Sand cocktail, however, has a less–illustrious legacy. Its print debut was in 1930 as an equal–parts recipe in the Savoy Cocktail Book, but following its revival during the cocktail renaissance, the Blood and Sand began to suffer from its own imperfections. Fact of the matter, the Savoy’s Blood and Sand just isn’t all that great. Oh, it can be nice when made well, but “nice” isn’t the same thing as “holy hell, that’s scrumptious.”

But craft bartenders like to tinker, and many have taken a crack at the Blood and Sand’s formula. Some boost the whisky’s profile by increasing its volume in the drink as well as by utilizing smokier, burlier styles. Others tweak the orange juice’s insipid contribution, either swapping in the juice of blood oranges or adding lemon to the mix; and others just chuck three of the ingredients down the sink and drink the whisky on its own without all the fanfare.

Nothing against straight Scotch, but the Blood and Sand’s legacy is one worth preserving. Tip one to Valentino, and don’t view the recipe specs with anything resembling rigidity.

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HOTEL NACIONAL HOTEL NACIONAL special special

Chapter 2: Not Forgotten

A Cuba–born mixture ripe for reinvention.

Like aspiring actors and athletes, some cocktails require a little coaching to reach their full potential.

Consider the Hotel Nacional Special. Introduced to the world in the 1930s by Wil P. Taylor, manager of Havana’s Hotel Nacional, and memorably conveyed via the florid prose of Charles H. Baker, Jr. (see page 51), the Hotel

HOTEL NACIONAL SPECIAL 11/2 oz. aged rum 3/4 oz. lime juice 3/4 oz. pineapple gomme syrup 1/2 oz. apricot liqueur

Nacional Special is a Cuban–esque blend of rum and lime, given fleshy lusciousness with the flavors of

The signature drink of Havana’s Hotel Nacional de Cuba, cleaned up and polished for the palates of today.

apricot and pineapple.

Just one problem: As with many of the recipes he related, Baker’s formula for the Hotel Nacional Special torques toward lameness.

Enter the coaches: San Francisco

Glass: cocktail Garnish: thin slice of lime Method: Shake with ice to chill, strain into chilled glass.

Tips: An aged Puerto Rican rum such as Bacardi 8 works well here, as does Banks 7 Golden Age. Adapted by Erik Adkins, San Francisco

bartender Erik Adkins and his colleague Jennifer Colliau. A fan of Baker’s works, Adkins revamped many of the writer’s recipes for Bay Area restaurants and bars including Slanted Door and (the sadly departed) Heaven’s Dog. Using the splendid pineapple gomme syrup from Colliau’s Small Hand Foods, Adkins translated Baker’s promising–though–misguided

NACIONAL 11/2 oz. white rum 1 oz. lime juice 3/4 oz. apricot liqueur 3/4 oz. simple syrup 2 dashes peach bitters

formula into something much more palatable.

Palatable? Hell, I’d drink a tanker of them if I could.

The Hotel Nacional Special has made the rounds in recent years, with various takes on the original. One inspired riff is the Nacional, from Portland, Oregon bartender Jeffrey Morgenthaler. As he did with the drink’s name, Morgenthaler slightly abbreviates and simplifies the recipe, swapping

Glass: cocktail Garnish: lime wheel Method: Shake with ice to chill; strain into chilled glass.

Jeffrey Morgenthaler, Portland, Oregon

pineapple’s sunny brightness for the fruity pop of peach bitters. It works.

THE COCKTAIL CHRONICLES 43

BASE Ingredient BASE Ingredient Index Index BASE INGREDIENT INDEX

Drinks are categorized by the base spirit or ingredient; recipes that split the base between two or more spirits, or that have alternate preparations, are included in all relevant categories.

ABSINTHE:

Absinthe Cocktail. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 83 Absinthe Drip. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 83 Absinthe Frappe . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 90

APPLEJACK & CALVADOS:

American Trilogy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 108 Applejack Rabbit. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 48 Diki Diki. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .48 Fort Washington Flip . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 142 Jack Rose. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 73 Marconi Wireless. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 110 Newark. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 49 Northern Spy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 152 Réveillon Cocktail. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 165 Savoy Tango. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 55 Supreme. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 68 Syncopation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 49 Walnut Old Fashioned. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 108 Widow’s Kiss. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 50

AQUAVIT:

Trident. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 166

BITTERS, CORDIALS & LIQUEURS:

Americano. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 118 Bitter Giuseppe. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 154 Black Rock Chiller. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 155 Charlie Chaplin . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 74 Chartreuse Swizzle. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 126 Italian Buck . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 154 Negroni Sbagliato . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 118 Picon Punch . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 47 Savoy Tango. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 55 Trinidad Sour. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 145

BRANDY:

Alabazam. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 144 Apricot Flip. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 81 Black Jack (Meehan) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 54 Black Jack (original) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 54 Bombay Cocktail. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 77 Brandy Scaffa. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 78 Brandy Smash. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 53 Burnt Fuselage. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 78 Champs Elysees. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 44 Creole Contentment. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 40 East India Cocktail . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 88 Georgia Mint Julep. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 52

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Japanese Cocktail. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 67 Milk Punch. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 66 Morning Glory . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 82 Prescription Julep. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 52 Quinquina Cocktail. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 65 Ritz Cocktail. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 79 Roffignac. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 92 Saratoga Cocktail . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 111 Sazerac (variation). . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 95 Sidecar. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 76 Syncopation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 49 Vieux Carre. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 93

CACHAÇA:

Batida. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 141 Caipirinha . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 141 Marmalade Sour . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 153

GENEVER:

Holland Gin Daisy. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 37 Improved Holland Gin Cocktail . . . . . . 108

GIN:

Alaska Cocktail . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 34 Army & Navy. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 68 Attention . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 58 Aviation. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 58 Bijou. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 60 Bramble. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 136 Breakfast Martini. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 153 Chocolate Negroni. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 120 Claridge Cocktail. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 36 Clover Club. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 69 Contessa. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 119 Continental. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 119 Corpse Reviver #2. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 19 Don’t Give Up the Ship. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 75 East Side . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 84 Ephemeral. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 37 Fitty Fitty. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 115 French 75. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 33 Gaby Des Lys. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 37 Gimlet. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 32 Gin & Tonic. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 71 Gin Basil Smash. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 168 Gin Fizz. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 81 Gin Fizz Tropical . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 80 Hanky Panky. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 40 Jasmine. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 128

Journalist. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 85 Last Word . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 39 Leave It To Me. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 35 Lucien Gaudin . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 47 Martinez. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 114 Martini. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 113 Negroni. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 117 Negroni Swizzle. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 120 Pegu Club . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 71 Pink Lady. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 69 Pliny’s Tonic. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 124 Ramos Fizz. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 150 Rickey. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 87 San Martin. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 60 Sawyer . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 144 Self Starter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 74 Silver Fizz. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 81 Sleepy Hollow. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 36 South Side. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 84 Tom Collins. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 62 Tuxedo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 114 Twentieth Century. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 57 Turf Club . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 114 White Negroni. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 119 Who Dares Wins. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 147

MEZCAL:

Division Bell. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Maximilian Affair. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Naked & Famous. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Single Village Fix. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

158 129 158 167

PISCO:

Black Jack (Shoemaker) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 54 Cienciano. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 157 Pisco Apricot Tropical. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 51 Pisco Bellringer . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 157

RUM:

2070 Swizzle. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 161 Ace of Clubs. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 138 Airmail. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 56 Añejo Highball . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 124 Boukman Daiquiri. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 104 Bumble Bee. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 38 Bywater . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 93 Coin Toss. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45 Corn ’n’ Oil . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22 Daiquiri. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 102

BASE INGREDIENT INDEX

Daisy de Santiago . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 103 Doctor Cocktail. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 59 Dolores Park Swizzle. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 135 Donga Punch. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 159 El Presidente . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 72 Floridita Cocktail. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 75 Floridita Daiquiri (aka Daiquiri #4). . . . 103 Hemingway Daiquiri (aka Daiquiri #3). .103 Honey Fitz. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 142 Hotel Nacional Special . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 43 Jungle Bird. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 163 Kingston Negroni. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 119 Land’s End. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 138 Mai Tai. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 159 Malecon. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 132 Milk Punch. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 66 Nacional. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 43 Nuclear Daiquiri. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 105 Old Cuban. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 134 Pago Pago . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 44 Periodista. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 85 Queen’s Park Swizzle. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 135 Royal Bermuda Yacht Club . . . . . . . . . . 125 Test Pilot. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 160 The Getaway. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 139 Three Dots and a Dash. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 161 ’Ti Punch. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 140 Trinidad Hook. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 105 Unique Bird. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 140 Winter Daiquiri. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 104 Zombie (1934). . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 162

TEQUILA:

Agavoni. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 118 Aguamiel. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .130 Black Rock Chiller. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 155 Jaguar. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 129 La Perla. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 86 Margarita . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 143 Nouveau Carre. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 130 Oaxaca Old Fashioned. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 108 Paloma . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 131 Theobroma . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 147 Tommy’s Margarita . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 143 Twenty-First Century. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 57

VODKA:

Cosmopolitan. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 137 Gypsy Cocktail. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 149

Harrington Cocktail . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 132 Kangaroo Cocktail. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 115 Moscow Mule. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 148 Vodka Espresso. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 149

WHISKEY – BOURBON:

Benton’s Old Fashioned. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 151 Black Manhattan. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 112 Boothby. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 110 Boulevardier. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 118 Brave Companion. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 164 Brown Derby. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 38 Cumberland Sour. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 169 Dixie Cocktail. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 96 Howitzer. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 33 Kentucky Buck. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 97 Lion’s Tail. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 59 Louie Louie. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 169 Manhattan. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 109 Milk Punch (variation) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 66 Mint Julep. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 52 Moto Guzzi. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 112 Old Fashioned. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 106 Paper Plane. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 98 Reverse Manhattan. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 110 Revolver. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 127 Rickey. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 87 Seelbach Cocktail. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 94 Uptown Manhattan. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 112 Whiskey Sour. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 70

WHISKEY – IRISH:

Cameron’s Kick . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 61 Tipperary. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 99

WHISKEY – RYE:

American Trilogy. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 108 Cocktail à La Louisiane. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 91 Black Manhattan. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 112 Blinker. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 89 Bonal & Rye. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 64 Boothby. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 110 Brooklyn. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 111 Clint Eastwood. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 137 Cocktail à la Louisiane. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 91 Colleen Bawn. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 81 Creole. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 91 Diamondback. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45 Greenpoint. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 111

Liberal. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 94 Little Italy. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 112 Manhattan. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 109 Morning Glory . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 82 Old Fashioned. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 106 Prescription Julep. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 52 Prince of Wales. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 89 Red Ant. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 127 Red Hook . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 156 Remember the Maine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 51 Reverse Manhattan. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 110 Roffignac. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 92 Saratoga Cocktail . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 111 Sazerac. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 95 The Slope. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 156 Toronto Cocktail. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 99 Vieux Carre. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 93 Whiskey Sour. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 70

WHISKEY – SCOTCH:

30th Century Man. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 57 Blood and Sand. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 42 Bobby Burns. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 46 Cameron’s Kick . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 61 DeRigueur. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 38 Penicillin Cocktail. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 146 Rapscallion. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .98 Rob Roy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 46 The Graduate. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 164

WINES & APERITIFS:

Americano. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 118 Appetizer à l’Italienne. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 63 Bamboo Cocktail. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 86 Champagne Cocktail. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 56 Chrysanthemum . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 64 Coronation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 65 Falling Leaves. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 152 Fitty Fitty. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 115 LaPerla. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 86 Martinez. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 114 Moto Guzzi. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 112 Negroni Sbagliato. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 118 Rose. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 79 Reverse Manhattan. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 110 Sherry Cobbler . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 41 The Graduate. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 164

THE COCKTAIL CHRONICLES 195

Index Index INDEX

2070 Swizzle, 161, 163

20th Century Limited, 57 21 Club, 84 30th Century Man, 57

A Manual for the Manufac-

ture of Cordials, Liquors, Fancy Syrups & c, & c., 89 A Taste Apart: Absinthe: 83; Amari: 154-155; Amer Picon, 55; Apricot, 74; Champagne, 56; Curaco & Triple Sec, 73; Falernum, 125; Grenadine, 73; Jam, 153; Lost and Found: 58-59; Orgeat, 68; Pineapple & Raspberry, 89; Sherry, 86; Sloe Gin, 55; Swizzles, 135 Aalborg, 178 Abbott’s Bitters, 109, 110, 178 ABC of Mixing Cocktails, 61, 118 Aberdeen, Scotland, 145 Absinthe, 17, 19, 37, 51, 57, 58, 63, 64, 74, 77, 82, 83, 90, 95, 108, 109, 114, 126, 135, 160, 162, 177 Absinthe Brasserie & Bar, 17 Absinthe Cocktail, 83 Absinthe Drip, 83 Absinthe Frappe, 90 Absinthe Marteau, 177 Absolut, 184 Ace of Clubs, 138 Adios Motherfucker, 14 Adkins, Erik, 18, 38, 96, 43, 51, 51, 103 Adonis, 86 Agave Nectar, 108 Agave Syrup, 143, 186 Age of Exploration, 56 Aguamel, 130 Aikman, Mike, 147 Airmail, 56 Alabama Slammer, 21, 55 Alabazam, 144 Alaska Cocktail, 34 Alberta Distillers, 98 Alcademics.com, 172 Alembic, 127 Alex Day, 17 Ali, Mohammad, 63 Allspice liqueur, 59, 104, 161, 165 Almonds, 186 Älskar, 166 Amargo Chuncho, 109 Amari, 137, 154-155 Amaro Montenegro, 154, 181 Amaro Nonino, 98, 112 Amazon, 173, 174, 175, 176, 186, 188 Ambre, Pierre Ferrand, 179 Amer Picon, 40, 47, 55, 55, 58, 91, 92, 93, 110, 111, 129, 154, 155, 181 American Bar, 16, 94, 132 American Trilogy, 107, 108 American West, 117 American Whiskey, 177 Americano, 117, 118, 119

196

Amontillado Sherry, 157 Amsterdam, 18, 39 Anchor Distilling, 180 And a Bottle of Rum, 138 Andes, 51 Añejo Highball, 124 Angostura 1919, 161 Angostura Bitters, 22 37, 40, 44, 46, 49, 50, 51, 56, 59, 64, 68, 71, 82, 85, 86, 88, 89, 93, 96, 97, 99, 104, 106, 107, 108, 109, 111, 111, 112, 124, 130, 134, 135, 137, 144, 145, 145, 149, 151, 156, 160, 160, 161, 162, 178 Anise, 83 Anisette, 83 Ann Arbor, 13, 39 Anvil, 20 Aperol, 98, 119, 158, 158, 181 Aperol Spritz, 13 Apertif, 63-65 Appel, Todd, 187 Appetizer à l’Italienne, 63 Apple Brandy, 152, 177 Apple Brandy, American, 108 Apple Cider, 152 Applejack, 45, 48, 49, 55, 65, 68, 69, 73, 110, 142, 152, 165, 177 Applejack Rabbit, 48 Appleton Estate Signature Blend Rum, 182 Apricot, 74 Apricot du Roussillon, 180 Apricot Flip, 81 Apricot Liqueur, 36, 43, 51, 65, 74, 81, 85, 152, 156, 180 Aquavit, 178; Krogstad Festlig, 166; Private Reserve, 166 Arabic, 186 Ardbeg, 99, 183 Argentina, 51 Army & Navy, 68, 147 Arnaud, 92 Arsenic and Old Lace, 58 Atlanta, 13 Atsby, 65 Attaboy, 17, 112 Attention, 58, 58 Australia, 189, 146 Austria, 180, 182 Averna, 112, 155, 181 Aviation, 21, 58, 58, 36 Avuá, 179 Aylesbury Duck, 184 Azul, 183

B.G. Reynolds, 185, 187,

185, 186, Babylonian, 82 Bacardi 8, 124, 134 Bacardi Superior, 182 Bahama Mama, 138 Balance & Columbian Repository, 106 Baltimore, 52 Bamboo Cocktail, 86 Banks 5 Island, 104, 140, 182 Banks 7 Golden Age, 104, 140 Bar Agricole, 167 Bar Basso, 119

THE COCKTAIL CHRONICLES

Bar Casoni, 117 Bar High Five, 18, 21 Bar spoon, 174 Bar-Tender’s Guide, 53, 56, 68, 82 Barbados, 102, 140, 183 Barbancourt Haitian rum, 183 Barbary Coast, 126 Barflies and Cocktails, 118 Barolo Chinato, 64 Baroque, 83 BarProducts.com, 173, Barrelhousse Flat, 155 Barrio, 16 Barsol, 182 Bartender’s Guide, 60 Bartender’s Manual, 41 Bartenders Union of New York, 95 Basil, 168 Batida, 141, Bay Area, 112, 126, 127, 132, 159, 159, 167, 181 Beach, Donn, 139, 159, 161 Beachbum Berry, See Berry, Jeff “Beachbum” Beachbum Berry’s Grog Log, 162 Beachbum Berry’s Latitude 29, 139 Beacon, 18 Beefeater, 180, 62 Belfast, 16 Belgium, 37, 77, 180 Bellevue-Stratford Hotel, 69 Bellocq, 41, 92, 93 Bemelman’s Bar, 152, 18 Bénédictine, 50, 45, 45, 46, 64, 79, 81, 91, 93, 130, 142, 149 Benton, Allen, 151 Benton’s Old Fashioned, 151 Beachbum Berry, 162 Beretta, 167 Berg, Stephan, 168 Bergeron, Victor, 104, 159, 160, 162, 91 Berlin, 18, 118 Berry, Jeff “Beachbum”, 21, 93, 159, 161, 162, 163, 102 Besh, John, 92 Bezuidenhout, Jacques, 86 Bigallet China-China, 147, 154, 181 Bijou, 13, 45, 60, 60 Bittenmens Bitters, 178 Bitter Giuseppe, 154, 155 Bitter Liqueurs, 181 Bitter Orange, 88 Bitter Truth Aromatic Bitters, 178 Bittermens, 145; Amer Nouvelle, 181; Xocolatl Molé Bitters, 127, 147, 178 Bitters, 83, 110, 144-145, 178; Aromatic, 54, 165, 169 Black Grouse, 46 Black Jack, 54, 188; Meehan, 54; Shoemaker, 54 Black Manhattan, 112 Black Rock Chiller, 155 Blackberry Liqueur, 136

Blackbird, 16 Blackstrap Rum, 22 Blair Reynolds, 20 Blenheim Ginger Ale, 189 Blinker, 89 Blood and Sand, 21, 42 Bloody Mary, 153 Blue Bottle , 188 Blue Gin, 180 Blue Weber Agave, 129, 130 Bobby Burns, 45, 46 Boccato, Richard, 108, 107 Bodenheimer, Neal, 92 Bohrer, Andrew, 107 Boker’s Bitters, 68, 78, 88, 108, 109, 110, 113, 114, 114, 144, 178 Bombay Cocktail, 77 Bon Vivant’s Companion, 17 Bonal & Rye, 64 Bonal Gentiane-Quina, 64, 65, 65 Bonn, 148 Bonzer, 174 Boothby, 56, 110 Boston, 18, 10, 85, 112, 112, 119, 124, 129, 131, 142, 142, 142, 152, 152, 175 Boston Harbor, 75 Boston Shaker, 173, 175 Botanivore, 180 Bottles, 171 Bottom’s Up, 39, 119, 19 Boudreau, Jamie, 9, 20, 51, 144, 145, 153, 154, 155 Boukman Daiquiri, 104, 105 Boulevardier, 13, 118 Bourbon, 33, 38, 40, 52, 53, 59, 66, 70, 87, 96, 96, 97, 98, 106, 110, 112, 118, 127, 164, 169; Bacon-fat washed, 151; Cask-Strength, 112 Bourbon & Branch, 44, 167 Bourbon Street, 92, 104 Bradford a la Martini, 114 Bradley, General Omar, 153 Bradsell, Dick, 15, 16, 128, 136, 149 Brady, Diamond Jim, 57, 70 Bramble, 136 Branca Menta, 155 Brandy, 44, 47, 49, 53, 54, 65, 66, 67, 76, 77, 77-79, 78, 81, 82, 88, 92, 93, 94, 130, 135, 144, 179 Brandy Cocktail, 88, 106, 79 Brandy Scaffa, 78 Brandy Smash, 53 Brandy Sour, 70 Bratislava, 18 Braulio, 155 Brave Companion, 164 Brazil, 141 Breakfast Martini, 153 Briottet, 181 British, 174 British Navy, 71 Boker’s Bitters, 82 Bronze Age, 82 Brooklyn, 51, 55, 110, 111, 112, 137, 156

Brooklyn’s Uncouth Vermouth, 184 Broussard’s, 93 Brown Derby, 38 Brown, Derek, 86, 139 Brunelleschi, Filippo, 88 Brussels, 148 Brut Sparkling Wine, 56, 152 Bubbles, 27 Buchanan, Daisy 40 Buffalo Trace, 177 Bulleit, 156 Bulleit Rye, 177 Bumble Bee, 38 Bundaberg, 189 Bunker, Archie, 70 Burbank, Luther, 136 Burnt Fuselage, 78 Burrah Peg, 71 Bushmill’s, 180, 98 Byron, O.H. , 113 Byrrh, 64 Bywater, 92, 93

Cachaça, 141, 153, 157, 159,

179 Café Royal Cocktail Book, 57 Caffe Giacosa, 117 Caffe Rivoire, 118 Caipirinha, 141, 141 Calabrese, Salvatore, 153 California, 78, 134, 168, 179, 180, 184 Calvados, 48, 48, 49, 50, 59, 108, 165, 177, 178, 107 Cambridge, 142 Cameron’s Kick, 61 Campari, 47, 117, 118, 119, 119, 119, 120, 128, 163, 169, 181 Campari Cocktail, 119 Camper English, 172 Campo de Encanto, 182 Caña Brava, 140, 182, 104 Canada, 98, 169 Canadian Whisky, 98, 99 Cane & Table, 92, 93, 139 Cane Syrup, 135, 140 Cannon, Jackson, 85, 142, 175 Cannon, Lou, 142 Canon, 21, 145, 20 Cara Cara, 184 Caribbean, 72, 73, 92, 102, 124, 125, 135, 138, 169, 186 Carnival, 150 Carpano Antica, 45, 63, 110, 119, 184, 154 Carthusian Monks, 44 Castro, Erick, 97, 164 Castro, Fidel, 102 Cate, Martin, 105, 105, 161, 163 Cava, 180 Cecchini, Toby, 137, 149 Celery Bitters, 37, 178 Chairman’s Reserve, 142 Chambery, 63 Champagne, 27, 33, 40, 41, 53, 56, 79, 82, 84, 89, 110, 110, 134, 180, 33 Champagne Cocktail, 56 Champagne flute, 29 Champs Elysees, 44 Chaplin, Charlie, 55, 159

INDEX

Baker Jr., Charles H., 38, 43, 51, 81, 94, 105, 19 Charles Phan, 17 Charles Schumann, 15 Charleston, 18 Charlie Chaplin, 74 Chartreuse, 44, 45, 45, 79, 92, 105, 169 Chartreuse Swizzle, 126 Chartreuse, green, 60, 78, 99, 105, 126, 129, 132, 137 Chartreuse, yellow, 34, 44, 45, 50, 60, 81, 103, 111, 140, 158 Chateau du Breuil Fine Calvados, 178 Chef’n FreshForce, 175 Cherries, 188 Cherry Heering, 42, 51, 112, 127, 181 Cherry Liqueur, 181 Chicago, 10, 52, 57, 137, 139, 154, 155, 162, 166, 187 Chicago Cubs, 71 Chichicapa, 182 Child, Julia, 34 Chile, 157 Chimney Glass, 29 Chocolate, 147 Chocolate Bitters, 178 Chocolate Liqueur, 82 Chocolate Molé Bitters, 120 Chocolate Negroni, 119 Christchurch, 13, 39 Christmas Eve, 165 Chrysanthemum, 64 Churchill, Winston, 34 Cienciano, 157 Cinnamon sticks, 185 Cinnamon syrup, 104, 185 Cinzano, 184 Citadelle Gin, 124 Citrus, 184, 175 Citrus twists, 26 Civil War, 15, 15, 52, 53, 108 Claridge Cocktail, 36 Clay, Henry, 52 Clear Creek Distillery, 152, 178, 179, 181, 182 Cleveland, Grover, 111 Clint Eastwood, 137 Clisby, Stanley, 95 Clock Bar, 126 Clover Club, 16, 69, 70, 89, 145, 156 Club Soda, 47, 62, 80, 81, 83, 90, 92, 150, 189 Clyde Common, 20 Cobb, Irvin S., 52 Cobble Hill, 137 Cobbler, 176 Cobbler Shaker, 173 Coca-Cola, 16 Cocchi Apertivo Americano, 65 Cocchi Vermouth di Turino, 65, 184 Cockspur, 183 Cocktail á la Louisiane, 45, 91 Cocktail Essentials: Apertifs, 63-65; Applejack & Calvados, 48-49; Bitters, 144-145; Brandy, 77-79; Cachaça,

141; Gin, 34-37; Honey, 38; In Prasie of Difficult Drinks, 150; Pisco, 157; Rum, 138-140; Tequila & Mezcal, 129-131; Vodka, 148-149; Whiskey, 96-99 Cocktail Gear, 173 Cocktail glass, 29 Cocktail King, 103 Cocktail Kingdom, 173, 174, 175, 176 Cocktail Kitchen, 184 Cocktail shaker, 173 Cocktail Style: A Not Quite Perfect Gentleman, 51; Aquavit, 166; Drinks of Empire, 71; Drinks of God, 44-45; New Orleans, 90-93; The Flip & the Fizz, 80-81; The Julep & the Smash, 52-53; The Triumph of Tiki, 159-163 Cocktail: The Drinks Bible for the 21st Century, 9, 128 Coconut Cream, 141 Coffee liqueur, 127, 149, 181 Cognac, 45, 53, 54, 76, 78, 79, 95, 104, 111, 138, 179 Coin Toss, 45, 45 Cointreau, 19, 36, 40, 47, 49, 57, 64, 76, 79, 85, 125, 132, 137, 143, 144, 153, 160, 182 Coke, 138 Cold coffee, 54 Cold War, 113, 116 Cold-brew coffee, 54, 188 Cole, Stephen, 154, 155 Coleman, Ada, 94 Colleen Bawn, 81 Colliau, Jennifer, 18, 187 Collins, 80 Collins glass, 29 Collins, Wayne, 119, 120, 120 Colorado, 134, 168 Combier Liqueur d’Orange, 76, 182 Compari, Gaspare, 117 Compass Box’s Asyla. S, 183 Conigilaro, Tony, 120 Contemporary gin, 36, 37 Contessa, 119, 120 Continental, 119 Continental Army, 142 Contreau, 128 Cooper’s Del Maguey, 182 Corn ’N’ Oil, 125, 20, 22 Coronation, 65 Corpse Reviver #2, 13, 19 Cosmopolitan, 137 Coupe glass: 29, 29 Cox, Jennings, 102 Craddock, Harry, 85 Cranberry juice, 137 Crawford, Joan, 159 Cream, 82 Crémantdu Bourgogne, 180 Crème de Cacao, 44, 138, 164, 181 Crème de Cacao, White, 57, 119, 75 Crème de Menthe, 82, 96 Crème de Mure, 181, 136

Crème de Violette, 58 Crème Yvette, 58 Creole, 91 Creole Contentment, 94 Crescent City, 90, 95 Crockett, Albert Stevens, 110 Cruzan Single Barrel, 93 Cuba, 51, 102, 103, 104, 182 Cuban, 85, 140 Cucumber, 84, 124 Cuisinart, 176 Cumberland Sour, 169 Curaçao, 181, 182, 37, 71, 72, 73, 75, 77, 78, 82, 85, 88, 96, 108, 109, 124, 138, 152, 164 Cure, 33, 92, 93 Curtis, Wayne, 138 Cutting board, 175 Cynar, 112, 112, 130, 139, 154, 154, 166, 181 Cynarri, 119 Czech Becherovka, 154

Danish, 127

Daiquiri, 32, 56, 70, 71, 75, 101, 102-105, 107, 117, 132, 134, 139, 140, 143, 148, 160, 175, 182, 184 Daiquiri #3, 103, 105 Daiquiri #4, 103, 105 Daiquiri Dude, 104 Daiquiri Time Out, 105 Daisy, 143 Daisy De Santiago, 103, 105 Day, Alex, 104, 105 De Rigeur, 38 Dead Rabbit Grocery, 99 Death & Co., 17, 158, 162, 105, 119, 127 DeGroff, Dale, 9, 15, 16, 95, 109, 124, 125, 128, 178, Del Maguey’s Chichicapa, 127, 158 Demerara sugar, 186, 140, 161, 108, 185, 185, 54, 108, 137 Denmark, 166, 181 Dent, Arthur, 70 Depression, 159 Deragon, John, 49 Derrick, Douglas, 119 Detrich, Nick, 92 Detroit Athletic Club, 39 DeVoto, Bernard, 113, 114, 115, 116 Diamondback, 45 Dickens, Charles, 52 Diep 9, 180 Diki Diki, 48, 59 Dionysos, Marcovaldo, 18, 45, 112, 126 Division Bell, 158 Dixie Cocktail, 96 Doctor Cocktail, 59 Dolin, 65, 184 Dolores Park Swizzle, 135 Dom Bernardo Vincelli, 45 Don Julio, 183 Don the Beachcomber, 104, 139, 162 Don’s Spice Mix, 159, 160, 162 Don’t Give Up the Ship, 75 Donga Punch, 159, 159, 160

Donn Beach, 104 Double-straining: 25, 25 Drink Dogma, 124 Drink Without a Name, The, 132 Drinkboy: 19, 19, 9 Drinks, 54, 110 Dry shake: 24, 24 Dubai, 159 Dublin, 50 Dubonnet, 63, 75 Dufresne, Wylie, 13 Dutch Kills, 16 Dylan, 176

East India Cocktail, 88

East Side, 84 East Village, 119 Eastern Europe, 148 Eastern Standard, 85, 18 Eau de Vie, 152, 180 Edinburgh, 13, 18, 39, 46, 147 Edouard Nouveaux Orleans, 177 Egg, 142, 188 Egg Nog, 66 Egg white, 38, 69, 70, 82, 150, 153, 169, 80 Egg, organic, 81 eGullet, 19 El Camino, 162 El Dorado, 126, 134, 182 El Jolgorio, 182 El Presidente, 21, 72 El Rey de los Coteleros, 103, 104 Elderflower Liqueur, 37, 129, 181 Elmeigirab, Adam, 145, 178 Embury, David, 19, 46, 115 Emerald, 99 Emeryville, California, 127, 128, 132 Emile Pernot, 177, 177 Emulsifier, 185 Engels, Leo, 50, 145 Ensslin, Hugo, 58 Enterprise Tribune, 115 Ephemeral, 36, 37 Episcopal, 94 Ellestad, Erik, 20 Errico, Enzo, 156 Espresso Martini, 149 Esquire Drinks , 19 Estopinal, Kirk, 92 Europe, 153 Evan Williams, 177

Falernum, 22, 93, 105, 125,

126, 160, 162, 186 Falernum #10, 125 Falling Leaves, 152 Famous Grouse, 183 Famous New Orleans Drinks and How to Mix ‘Em, 95 Fancy & Improved, 106, 108 Fancy and Improved Cocktails, 88, 108 Fancy Whiskey Cocktail, 107 Fed Ex, 48 Fee Brothers, 145, 178, 178 Felten, Eric, 153

Fernet, 154 Fernet-Branca, 63, 75, 94, 99, 112, 154, 155, 181 Ferran Adria, 13 Festlig Krogstad Aquavit, 166 Fever Tree, 189 Fidencio, 182 Fields, W.C. , 34 Firelit Spirits Coffee Liqueur, 181 Firenze, 120 Fitty Fitty, 115, 116 Fitzgerald, F. Scott, 40 Fitzgerald, John F., 142 Fitzgerald, Ryan, 130, 131 Fix, 167, 79 Fizz, 80-81 Fizz glass, 29 Flamed Twists, 27 Flatiron Lounge, 16, 156 Flip, 80-81 Flor de Caña , 182, 104 Florence, 117, 118 Floridita Cocktail, 75 Floridita Daiquiri (Daiquiri #4), 103 Food & Wine, 9 Ford’s Gin, 180, 36 Foreman, Joe, 63 Fort Defiance, 51 Fort Ticonderoga, 142 Fort Washington Flip, 142, 142 Fortaleza, 183 Forty Creek, 98 Fouquet, Louis, 114 Four Roses Yellow Label, 177 France, 154, 83 Frank Fogarty, 39 Frankfort Distilleries, 52 Frazier, Joe, 63 Fred’s Club, 16 French, 140, 155, 181, 181, 187, 184 French 75, 27, 33, 56, 92, 93, 165 French Revolution, 45 Frenet-Branca, 49 Freshness, 27 Frizell, St. John, 51 frontiercoop.com, 186 Frost, Robert, 152 Fruit syrups, 186 Fuzzy Navel, 16

Gable, Clarke, 159

Gaby’s Des Lys, 37 Gaelic, 77 Gaige, Crosby, 116 Gallagher, Chris, 175 Gantt, Raymond Beaumont, 139 Garnishes, 27 Genever, 37, 108, 180 Gentleman’s Companion, 94 George Kappeler, 40 Georgia Mint Julep, 52 Germain-Robin, 134 Germany, 154, 168 Gertsen, John, 112, 119, 120 Gibson, 27, 115 Giffard’s, 181, 187, 76, 180, 182, 181

THE COCKTAIL CHRONICLES 197

INDEX

Index (continued) Gilded Age, 82 Gilligan’s Island, 161 Gimlet, 32, 35, 71 Gin, 32, 19, 33, 34, 36, 39, 47, 57, 57, 58, 60, 62, 68, 69, 69, 71, 74, 75, 81, 84, 85, 87, 94, 117, 119, 119, 124, 128, 136, 144, 150, 153, 168, 180; Dry, 113, 114, 115, 71, 119, 180 Gin & Tonic, 35, 71, 87, 178 Gin Basil Smash, 168 Gin Daisy, 37 Gin Fix, 136 Gin Fizz, 32, 80, 81 Gin Fizz Tropical, 51, 80, 81 Gin Sour, 32, 33, 56, 70, 84, 168 Ginger, 146, 186 Ginger Beer, 97, 124, 148, 154, 189 Glasser, Avery, 145 Glasser, Janet, 145 Glassware, 29 Gnatt, Raymond Beaumont, 159 Goblet, 29 Golden Age, 101 Gomme syrup, 96, 108, 114, 185, 186, 186 González, Giuseppe, 120, 145, 163 Gran Classico, 119 Grand Central Station, 57 Grant, Achatz, 13 Grant, Cary, 89 Grapefruit, 184 Grapefruit bitters, 178 Grapefruit juice, 38, 48, 89, 103, 142 Grapefruit soda, 131 Green Spot Irish Whiskey, 98, 180 Green Street, 142 Greene, Graham, 134 Greenpoint, 111 Grenadine, 47, 68, 69, 72, 73, 75, 162, 187 Grimes, William 19 Grog, 71, 99 Gruyther, Gregor de, 105 Guadeloupe, 140 Guatemala, 140 Guinness, Alec, 134 Gulfstream, 57 Gum Arabic, 185 Gum syrup, 186 Gumbo Pages, 165 Gustings, Paul, 92 Guyana, 140 Gypsy Cocktail, 149

Habanero Tincture, 124

Haigh, Ted “Dr. Cocktail”, 9, 19, 31, 50, 89, Haiti, 140, 183 Hale Pele, 20, 162 Hamburg, 18, 168 Hamilton’s, 183 Hangar One Vodka, 184 Hanky Panky, 94 Hanna, Chris, 92 Harper, Copenhagen, 98 Harrington Cocktail, 132 Harrington, Paul, 128

198

Harrington, Ryan, 132 Harry’s ABC of Mixing Cocktails, 84 Hauck, Alexander, 145, 168 Haus Alpenz, 59 Havana, 15, 72, 75, 103, 139, 160 Havana Club, 104, 182 Hawaiian, 160 Hawthorne, 85 Hawthorne strainer, 25, 174 Hayman’s, 55 Heaven’s Dog, 20, 43 Heavy Cream, 150 Heering, Peter, 181 Hele Pele, 139 Hemingway Daiquiri (Daiquiri #3), 103 Hemingway, Ernest, 103, 134 Hendrick’s Gin, 36, 62 Hennessy, Courtney, 119 Herbsaint, 91, 160 Here’s How, 38 Hess, Robert, 9, 19. 166 Heugel, Bobby, 20, 124, 131, Heuser, Bastian, 118 HFCS, 32, 73, 187 Hidalgo, 183 Highball glass, 29 HMS Shannon, 75 Hoffman, 174 Holland, 77 Holland Gin, 53, 37 Holland Gin Cocktail, 106 Holland Gin Daisy, 37 Holland Gin Old Fashioned, 37 Holland House, 50, 114 Holler Mountain, 188 Hollywood, 71 Honey, 38, 105 Honey Fitz, 85, 142 Honey syrup, 38, 56, 142, 146, 152, 161, 186 Honeycut, 17 Hotel Monteleone, 91 Hotel Nacional Special, 43 House Spirits, 166, 181 Houston, 18, 20, 124, 131 How to Mix Drinks, 89, 157 Howard, Moe, 117 Howitzer, 33 Huber’s Starlight Distillery, 178 Hughes, Howard, 159 Hummer, 14 Hungary, 154 Hyssop, 83

ICBM, 148

Ice, 172; Crushing, 176 Imbibe!, 31 Imbue, 65 Imbue Petal & Thorn, 184 Improved Holland Gin Cocktail, 108 In Praise of Difficult Drinks, 150 Indonesia, 59 Ireland, 98 Irish Whiskey, 46, 61, 98, 99, 99, 180 Irving, Washington, 52 Islay, 99

THE COCKTAIL CHRONICLES

Islay Single-Malt , 183 Italian, 166, 182 Italian Amarena Cherries, 188 Italian Buck, 154 Italy, 64, 155

Jack Rose Cocktail Co., 73,

73, 187, 189 Jägermeister, 154 Jaguar, 129 Jalisco, Mexico, 129, 130 Jam, 153 Jamaica, 102, 140 Jamaican Pot Still Black Rum, 183 Jamaican Rum, 38, 59, 183 James Beard Award, 20 Jameson Irish Whiskey, 98, 180 Japanese Cocktail, 67 Japanese Whisky, 99 Jardiniere, 17 Jasmine, 128, 132 Jerez, 86 Thomas, Jerry, 17, 31 Jersey Shore, 104 Jiggers, 175 Jim Beam Distillery, 177 John Collins, 62 Johnson, Harry, 41, 50, 58, 60, 88, 110, 114 Josey Packard, 10 Journalist, 85 Julep, 124, 188 Julep cup, 29 Julep strainer, 174 Jungle Bird, 163 Junipero, 180 Jurassic Park, 108

Kalkofen, Misty, 129, 131, 142 Kamikazes, 148 Kangaroo Cocktail, 115, 116 Kaplan, Dave, 17 Kappeler, George, 50, 107, 114, 114 Kaye, Annene, 162 Kennedy, John F. , 103, 142 Kentucky, 52, 96 Kentucky Buck, 97 Kingston Negroni, 119, 119 Kirschwasser, 79, 127, 54 Knife, 175 Knob Creek, 111 Knob Creek Rye, 177 Kodachrome, 65 Kold-Draft ice, 172 Koriko, 173 Kronan Swedish Punsch, 59 Krostad Festlig Aquavit, 178 Kucan, Mindy, 104, 105 Kuehner, Jay, 157 Kümmel, 147

La Florida, 75, 103

La Floridita Cocktail, 75 La Perla, 86, 86 LAB, 105 Laird, 48, 49, 177 Land’s End, 138 Laphroaig, 99, 183 Larceny, 177 LaSalle Street Station, 57 Last Word, 39, 45, 61, 158

Last Word Saloon, 147 Latitude 29, 93 Lawrence, Captain James, 75 Le Lion, 168 Leave It To Me, 35 Leblon, 179 Lee, Don, 144, 151, 174 Lele twig, 135 Lennon, John, 88 Lennox, 32 Leopold Jiggers, 175 Lewis, Jerry, 75 Liberal, 40 Liberty, 21 Lillet, 64 Lillet blanc, 19, 57, 74, 119, 130 Lime cordial, 32, 187 Limousin oak, 49 Link, Donald, 92 Lion’s Tail, 59 Liqueurs, 180 Liquor Cabinet, 177 Little Branch, 16, 16, 107 Little Italy, 112 Livermore, California, 13, 39 Loman, Willie, 70 London, 13, 15, 18, 33, 76, 105, 119, 120, 132, 136, 149, 153, 159 London Dry Gin, 35, 37 Long Island Iced Tea, 15 Lorincz, Erik, 132 Los Angeles, 17, 31, 38, 84, 165 Lost and Found, 58 Lost Lake, 139, 162 Louie Louie, 169 Louis Royer Force 53, 179 Louisville, 18, 52 Lucien Gaudin, 47 Lustau, 183 Lutfisk, 166 Luxardo, 188

M&Ms, 147

Macchu Pisco, 182 MacElhone, Harry, 61, 118 Macgregor, Robert Roy, 46 Madeira, 94 Mai Tai, 104, 159, 160, 161 Maker’s Mark, 177 Malecon, 132 Maloney, Jim, 157 Manhattan, 40, 46, 49, 86, 99, 101, 107, 109-112, 113, 115, 117, 119, 128, 134, 148, 156, 184 Maple syrup, 48, 142, 151, 169, 187 Maraschino liqueur, 35, 39, 49, 78, 79, 88, 89, 94, 103, 108, 111, 114, 114, 135, 156, 158, 182 Marconi, 110 Marconi Wireless, 110 Margarita, 143 Marie Duffau Napoleon Bas Armagnac, 179 Marmalade, 153 Marmalade Sour, 141, 153 Marsaka, 182 Marseillan, 63 Martaritas, 182 Martell VSOP, 179 Martin Miller’s Gin, 62 Martinez, 36, 110, 113, 114 Martini, 27, 31, 34, 35, 37, 101, 107, 113-116, 128, 152, 178, 180

Martini & Rossi, 65, 184 Martini Cocktail, 114 Martini, Dry, 115, 159 Martini, Sweet, 115 Martini, Wet, 115 Martinique, 140, 183 Massif de la Chartreuse, 44 Match and the Player, 16 Maximilian Affair, 129 Mayahuel, 17 McBride, Tom Moore, 69, 95, 111 McGarry, Jack, 99 McGrale, Ryan, 119, 120 McIlroy, Michael, 107, 108, 111 McMillan, Chris, 92 Measures, 175 Measuring, 24 Meehan, Jim, 17, 49, 54, 57, 112, 151 Meinke, Mike, 168 Melbourne, 18 Mesopotamia, 82 Mesozoic, 66 Metrokane, 176 Mexican, 127, 167 Mexico, 130 Meyer, Jörg, 168 Mezcal, 108, 127, 129-131, 158, 169, 182 Mezcal Vida, 182 Mezcal, single-village, 129, 167 Microplane fine grater, 176 Middle East, 188 Milan, 112, 117, 119 Milano-Torino, 118 Milk & Honey, 16, 112, 146, 148, 156 Milk Punch, 66, 153 Milk, whole, 66 Milky Way, 91 Miller, Brian, 162 Milwaukee, 18 Mimosa, 82 Mina, Michael, 126 Mindinao, 51 Miner’s Eighth Avenue Theater, 41 Minnesota, 166 Mint, 52, 53, 83, 84, 124, 134, 135, 188 Mint Julep, 52, 87, 96, 176, 177 Mitchum, Robert, 32 Mission District, 167 Mitty, Walter, 70 Mixing glass, 174 Mixtos, 129 Mockingbird Hill, 86 Modern American Drinks, 40, 50, 107 Mojito, 134 Molé bitters, 178 Momofuku Saäm Bar, 145 Monroe, Marilyn, 89 Monteaux, 188 Montenegro, 155 Morgan, J.P., 57 Morgenthaler, Jeffrey, 20, 43, 120, 186 Morning Glory, 82 Morning Glory Fizz, 82 Morton, Levi P. , 41 Moscato, 157 Moscow Mule, 148, 149 Moscow Mule mug, 29

INDEX

Moto Guzzi, 112 Mr. Boston Bartender’s Guide, 9 Mrs. Blum, 162 Mrs. Butterworth, 187 Muddler, 175 Muddling, 25 Muldoon, Sean, 99 Munich, 15, 16, 18, 168

Nacional, 43

Naked & Famous, 158, 158 Naren Young, 18 Negroni, 35, 47, 101, 117-121, 148, 166, 21 Negroni Sbagliato, 119 Negroni Socials, 120 Negroni Swizzle, 119 Negroni, Bottle-Matured, 120 Negroni, Camillo, 117 Neisson, 183 Neisson, La Favorite , 183 Netherlands, 37 New and Improved Bar Manual, 88 New England, 142 New Jersey, 48 New Orleans, 31, 33, 41, 80, 90-93, 90-93, 94, 95, 139, 144, 145, 150, 159, 160, 163, 165, 178 New Western gin, 36 New York, 13, 15, 15, 16, 18, 45, 50, 52, 57, 65, 71, 84, 87, 90, 99, 108, 112, 114, 114, 118, 124, 127, 131, 146, 156, 158, 159, 163, 168, 54, 144, 11, 49, 98, 99, 104, 111, 113, 115, 119, 119, 119, 124, 128, 134, 137, 144, 152, 155, 156, 158 New York Sour, 70 New Yorker, 119 New Zealand, 39 Newark, 49 Newport, 176 Nick and Nora glass, 29 No. 3 Gin, 35, 180 Nocino, 108, 169, 182 Noilly Prat, 63, 65, 184 Normandy, 48, 49 North Africa, 51, 63, 153 North Shore Distillery, 166 Northern Spy, 152 Norway, 166 Norwegian, 166 Nouveau Carre, 130 Novo Fogo, 141, 179 Nuclear Daiquiri, 105 Nutmeg, 161 Nux Alpina, 182

O’Brien, Connor, 140

Oaxaca, 127, 130 Oaxaca Old Fashioned, 108 Ojen, 91 Ojen Frappe, 91 Old Cuban, 27, 134 Old Fashioned, 31, 49, 60, 90, 95, 96, 106-108, 109, 151, 153, 172, 177, 185 Old Grand Dad, 111, 177 Old Overholt, 97 Old Overholt Rye, 177 Old Pal, 118

Old Tom Gin, 36, 36, 37, 62, 180, 35, 113, 114, 150 Old Waldorf Bar Days, 55, 74, 110 Olive, 116 Olmeca Altos, 183 Oloroso Sherry, 132 Olympics, 47 Orange bitters, 34, 40, 58, 60, 64, 71, 77, 86, 94, 99, 108, 110, 111, 112, 113, 114, 114, 115, 127, 129, 144, 153, 157, 178, 46 Orange flower water, 188 Orange juice, 42, 48, 161 Orange marmalade, 153 Orange-blossom water, 150 Oregon, 65, 152, 178, 178, 179, 180 Orgeat, 37, 61, 68, 68, 80, 104, 145, 147, 159, 187, 187, 187 Our Man in Havana, 134 Own Recipe Book, 52 OXO, 24, 174, 175

Pacific Coast, 126

Pacific Northwest, 166 Pacifique, 177 Packard, Josey, 152, 152 Pago Pago, 44 Paloma, 131 Paper Plane, 98 Paris, 15, 18, 33, 76, 118 Parisian shaker, 173 Parker, Dorothy, 34 Passion fruit juice, 141 Passion fruit nectar, 105 Passion-Honey mixture, 105 PDT, 57, 112, 17 Peach bitters, 33, 43, 166, 178 Peach brandy, 53 Pear brandy, 152, 165 Pear liqueur, 86, 182 Pectin, 153 Pedro Ximenez, 41, 183, 86, 98 Peeler, 176 Pegu Club, 16, 9, 15, 71, 116, 152, 158 Penicillana, 146 Penicillin Cocktail, 146 Periodista, 85 Pernod, 160, 160, 162, 177 Peru, 157, 182 Peruvian bitters, 109 Petite Canne, 186 Petraske, 17 Peychaud, Antoine Amédée, 92 Peychaud’s Bitters, 40, 45, 88, 90, 91, 93, 93, 95, 132, 142, 144, 145, 152, 157, 178 Philadelphia, 69 Philip Marlowe, 32 Picon Punch, 47 Picon, Gaetan, 55 Piedmont, 117 Pierde Almas, 182 Pierre Ferrand, 181 Pimento Dram, 59 Pineapple, 44, 89, 169 Pineapple Gomme Syrup, 43, 51, 80, 88, 140, 167, 130 Pineapple Gum Syrup, 186 Pineapple Juice, 126, 163

Pink Lady, 35, 69 Pisco, 51, 54, 157, 182 Pisco Apricot Tropical, 51 Pisco Bellringer, 157 Pisco Porton, 182 Pisco Sour, 109 Plan B, 60 Plantation 3 Stars, 104, 140, 182 Plantation Rums, 183 Planter’s Punch, 160 Pliny’s Tonic, 124 Plymouth Gin, 36, 55, 150, 35, 62, 80, 114, 114, 115, 119, 119, 136, 180 Plymouth, Navy Strength, 36 Poire William, 179 Polite Provisions, 164 Polynesian, 159 Pomegranate, 187 Pontarlier glass, 29 Pope, 102 Port, 132 Portland, Oregon, 18, 20, 10, 36, 43, 54, 104, 105, 162, 166, 181, 186, 36, 78, 120, 120, 139, 164 Potions of the Caribbean, 162 Pouring Ribbons, 158 Powers Irish Whiskey, 180 Pre-Prohibition, 68, 69, 129 Prescription Julep, 52, 53 Prince of Wales, 89 Private Reserve Aquavit, 166 Prohibition, 21, 38, 60, 101, 103, 111, 144, 159 Prosecco, 118, 119 Puerto Rico, 102 PUG, 175 Punt e Mes, 51, 63, 112, 119, 119, 129, 147, 156, 156, 165, 184 Pür Likor Williams Pear, 182 Purkhart, 179 Pythagoras, 102

Q Soda, 189

Quebranta, 157, 157 Queen’s Park Swizzle, 135 Quinquinas, 71

R. Murphy Knives, 175

Rachel’s Ginger Beer, 189 Raglin, Jonny, 130 Rainbow Room, 16 Ramazzotti, 154, 157 Ramos Fizz, 35, 80, 91, 150, 175, 188 Ramos, Henry, 150, 92 Rangoon, 71 Ransom Old Tom, 180 Rapscallion, 98 Raspberry, 89 Raspberry gomme syrup, 138 Raspberry gum syrups, 186 Raspberry syrup, 35, 69, 73, 89, 92 Raymond Chandler, 32 Reagan, 142 Recipe Index, 6, 7 Red #5 , 187 Red Ant, 127 Red Ant River, 127 Red Army, 148

Red Breast Irish Whiskey, 98, 180 Red Bull, 148 Red Hook, 156, 112 Red Sox, 85 Red Wine Vinegar, 92 Red-Headed Slut, 14 Redemption Rye, 177 Regan’s Orange Bitters No. 6, 178 Reisling, Dry, 152 Reitz, Brooks Reitz, 189 Remember the Alamo, 51 Remember the Maine, 51 Renaissance, 88 Renier, Julie, 156 Restaurant a la Louisiane, 91 Restaurant Marguery, 119 Réveillon Cocktail, 165 Reverse Manhattan, 110 Revolver, 127 Reykjavik, 50 Rhum Agricole, 140, 159, 183, 135, 140, 16; Aged, 183 Rhum Blancs, 183 Rhum Clement’s Canne Bleu., 183 Rhum J.M., 183 Ribalaigua, Constante, 160 Rich Demerara syrup, 185 Rich simple syrup, 185, 187 Richmond, 52 Richter, Tom, 189 Rickey, 80, 87 Rickey, “Colonel” Joe, 87 Riktig, 166 Rio Hormiga Colorado, 127 Rittenhouse, 97, 111, 177 Ritz Cocktail, 79 Rob Roy, 46, 99 Rochester, New York, 145 Rockefeller Center, 16 Rocks glass, 29 Roffignac, 91, 92 Rome, 18 Ron Zacapa, 183 Roosevelt, Theodore, 57 Rose, 79 Rose’s Lime, 32, 187 Rösle, 174 Ross, Sam, 17, 18, 98, 146, 158 Rothman & Winter, 58, 59, 180, 181, 182 Roy Roy, 107 Royal Bermuda Yacht Club, 125 Royal Daiquiri, 104 Royal Mile, 46 Rum, 85, 138-140, 169, 182 Rum Collins, 62 Rum Sour, 70 Rum, Aged, 43, 104, 124, 125, 134, 161; Amber, 45, 56, 93, 138; Amber Jamaican, 160; Amber Puerto Rican, 44; Blackstrap, 139, 163; Canebased, 183, Cuban, 102; Dark, 66, 142; Dark Jamican, 159, 162; Demerara, 135, 161, 162; Jamaican, 119, 138; Overproof Jamaican Rum, 105, 105, 119; White, 43, 72, 75, 102, 103, 103, 104, 132, 160, 162, 182

Rumba, 21, 139 Russia, 148 Russian Standard, 184 Ryan, Mike, 137 Rye Whiskey, 40, 45, 51, 70, 81, 82, 87, 64, 89, 89, 91, 92, 93, 95, 97, 99, 108, 109, 110, 111, 111, 112, 127, 137, 145, 156, 156, 169, 177

Sacramento, 18

Sagatiba, 179 Sahara Glowing Heart Cocktail, 51 Salers Tonic, 64 San Antonio, 13, 39 San Diego, 97, 123, 164 San Francisco, 13, 17, 18, 20, 38, 43, 51, 64, 65, 77, 86, 96, 103, 105, 105, 110, 112, 124, 126, 127, 128, 131, 135, 138, 139, 143, 162, 167, 168, 169, 180, 186, 89 San Martin, 60 Santa Cruz, 139 Santer, Jon, 127 Saratoga Cocktail, 110, 111, 112 Petraske, Sasha, 16 Saucier, Ted, 39, 119 Saunders, Audrey, 15, 16, 112, 115, 116, 134, 152 Savoy Cocktail Book, 20, 42, 74, 85, 116 Savoy Hotel, 94, 132 Savoy Tango, 55, 55 Sawyer, 144 Sazarec, 31, 83, 90, 95, 97 Sazarec Rye, 177 Scandinavia, 77, 166, 178 Scarlet Ibis, 183 Scarselli, Fosca, 117, 118 Schick, Morgan, 169 Schlesinger-Guidelli, Tom, 129 Schmallet Wood Mallet, 176 Schmidt, William, 50, 60 Schultz, Christian, 89 Schumann, 16, 16, 18 Scorpion Bowl, 162 Scotch, 38, 42, 45, 46, 82, 99 Scotch & Soda, 71 Scotch Sour, 70 Scotch Whiskey, 183, 57, 46, 99 Scotch, Blended, 61, 164, 146 Scotch, Islay Single-Malt, 98, 146 Scotland, 36, 39, 96, 147, 180, 178 Sea salt, 130, 131 Seattle, 10, 18, 20, 21, 51, 57, 91, 96, 101, 107, 139, 140, 144, 145, 153, 154, 155, 157, 166, 166 Second World War, 15 Seelbach Cocktail, 40 Self Starter, 74 Sex and the City, 137 Sex on the Beach, 21 Shakespeare, 61 Shaking tins, 173 Shameful Tiki Room, 162 Shanken Cocktails, 24 Shenaut, Dave, 36 Shepard, Adeline, 98 Shepard, Craig, 98 Sherry, 41, 86, 183

THE COCKTAIL CHRONICLES 199

INDEX

Index (continued) Sherry Cobbler, 41, 86, 109 Sherry, Dry, 86, 114, 166; Fino, 166, 183; Manzanilla, 86, 166 Shoemaker, Daniel, 54, 78, 164 Shoomaker’s, 87 Sidecar, 70, 76, 143 Sidewinder’s Fang, 162 Siembra, 183 Sierra Nevada, 17 Siete Leguas, 183 Simó, Joaquín , 119, 119, 158 Simonson, Robert, 107 Simple syrup, 184, 185 Singapore, 123 Single Village Fix, 167 Sipsmith, 35, 180 Slanted Door, 17, 43, 167 Slingshot, 188 Sloe Gin, 55, 55, 74, 182; Bitter Truth, 182; Hayman’s, 182, Plymouth, 182 Slovakian, 132 Small Hand Foods, 43, 89, 186, 187, 189, 186 Smashes, 79, 188 Smith & Cross, 183 Smith, Todd, 64, 112, 138 Smolensky, Jonathan, 169 Smuggler’s Cove, 105, 139, 162, 163 Snakes on a Plane, 57 SoBou, 93 Soda water, 103, 118 Soho Brasseri, 16 Sour glass, 29 Sous Bois, 183 South America, 60 South Carolina, 187 South Side, 84 Southern California, 161 Soviet, 148 Spain, 86 Spanish Anisette, 91 Spearmint, 188 Sphinx, 51 Spiced Pear Liqueur, 182 Spokane, Washington, 39, 128, 132 Sprite, 98 Square One, 184 St. Croix, 139 St. Elizabeth Allspice Dram, 59 St. George Spirits, 134, 179, 180, 181, 182 St. Germain, 181, 182 St. Louis, 87 St. Lucia, 140 St. Raphael, 64 Standard Cocktail Guide, 116 Star Bar, 18, 18 Star Wars, 47, 71

200

Stenson, Murray, 19, 20, 9, 39, 158 Stephen Cole, 10 Stirred cocktails, 25 Storyville, 91 Straight Up or On the Rocks, 19, 190 Strainer, fine-mesh, 174 Strainers, 174 Straining, 24, 25 Straining shaken drinks, 24 Straining stirred drinks, 25 Stratocaster, 88 Straub, Jacques, 110, 54 Strawberry, 97 Studebaker, 69 Stumptown, 181, 188 Subaru, 150 Sugar, 184 Sugarcane syrup, 186 Supreme, 68 Sur La Table, 175, 176 Sutton Cellars, 65, 184 Suze, 119, 120, 155, 64 Sweden, 166 Swedish Punsch, 48, 59 Vermouth, Sweet, 40, 42, 46 Switzerland, 83 Swizzles, 135, 186 Swizzling, 26 Sydney, 18, 39, 91 Syncopation, 49

Taggart, Chuck, 165

Talisker, 98 Tangier, 51 Tanquery, 180 Tapatio, 183 Tarentino, Quentin, 34 Taylor, Wil P. , 43 Teague, Sother, 155 Teardrop, 174 Teardrop Lounge, 164 Teeling’s Irish Whiskey, 98, 180 Templeton Rye, 177 Tempus Fugit, 58, 119, 181 Tennessee, 151 Tequila, 129-131, 143, 183 Tequila Cabeza, 183 Tequila Collins, 62 Tequila Interchange Project (TIP), 131 Tequila Ocho, 183 Tequila, Añejo, 129, 130; Blanco, 57, 129, 129, 130, 131, 143; Reposado, 86, 108, 118, 131, 143, 147, 155; Silver, 129 Terroir, 180 Terry Lennox, 32 Test Pilot, 160, 162 Texas, 39, 124, 143, 168

THE COCKTAIL CHRONICLES

The Art of Mixing Drinks, 46 The Bar-tender’s Guide: How to Mix Drinks, 17 The Bartender’s Book, 95, 111 The Bitter Truth, 178 The Botanist Gin, 180 The Bramble, 147 The Chanticleer Society, 19, 19 The Coachman, 20 The Cocktail Chronicles, 19, 20, 9, 10 The Craft Question, 133 The Fine Art of Mixing Drinks, 19 The Gentleman’s Companion, 81, 51, 19 The Getaway, 139 The Graduate, 164 The Great Gatsby, 40 The Hour, 113 The Long Goodbye, 32 The Man in the Grey Flannel Suit, 116 The Old Man and the Sea, 134 The Paper Plane, 158 The Pastry War, 124 The Slope, 156, 156 The South American Gentleman’s Companion, 51 The Stag, 150 The Tonic, 16 The Varnish, 17 Theobroma, 147 Thomas, Jerry, 53, 56, 68, 82, 89, 109, 113, 126, 167 Three Dots and a Dash, 161, 162 Ti Punch, 140, 186 Tiki, 185 Tiki mug, 29 Tipperary, 99, 99 Tips, 171 Titus Andronicus, 61 Tobala, 182 ToddAppel.com., 188 Tokyo, 18 Tom Collins, 31, 36, 62 Tommy’s Margarita, 13, 143 Tommy’s Mexican Restaurant, 143 Tom’s Tonic, 189 Tonic Water, 71, 164, 189 Tools, 171 Toronto Cocktail, 99 Toschi, 188 Townsend, Jack, 111, 69, 95 Tracy Des Jardins, 17 Tracy, Spencer, 134 Trader Vic, 159, 104 Transcontinental Railroad, 108

Trick Dog, 169 Trident, 166 Trimbach, 179 Trinidad, 105, 145 Trinidad Hook, 105 Trinidad Sour, 145 Trinidadian Rum, 183 Triple Sec, 73, 182 Trou Normand, 167 Tseng, Chantal, 86, 65 Turf Cocktail, 114 Turin, 117 Tuxedo, 114 Twentieth Century, 57, 61 Twenty-First Century, 57

U.K., 71, 147

U.S. Navy, 75 USS Chesapeake, 75 Uber Bar Tools, 174 Uncouth Vermouth, 65 Unicum, 154 Unique Bird, 140 Uptown Manhattan, 112, 126

Vago, 182

Valencia, 184 Valentino, Rudolf, 42 Vancouver, 162, 169 Vanilla pods, 185 Vanilla syrup, 104, 164, 185 Velvet Falernum, 186 VEP, 44 Vermout, Sweet, 77 Vermouth, 154, 184 Vermouth Cocktail, 64 Vermouth, Blanc, 37, 72, 79, 119; Dry, 36, 47, 58, 64, 65, 77, 85, 86, 111, 113, 114, 115, 119; French, 114, 115; Red, 109; Sweet, 49, 51, 60, 63, 63, 75, 91, 93, 94, 99, 109, 110, 110, 111, 112, 114, 117, 118, 164, 169 Vert, Constante Ribalaigua, 132, 103 Verte Suisse, 177 Vida, 127 Vieux Carre, 45, 91, 93, 21 Vieux Pontarlier, 177 Vintage Spirits & Forgotten Cocktails, 89, 9, 19, 31 Virgin Islands, 140 Virginia, 52 Vodka, 115, 132, 148-149, 184, 82 Vodka Espresso, 149 Vodka Tonic, 44 Vodka, Citrus, 137 Vodkatini, 111 Vogler, Thad, 18, 77, 167, 135 Vollrath juicer, 28 VSOP, 76, 78, 179

W.I. Weller, 177

Wadi, Al, 188 Walnut Liqueur, 108 Walnut Old Fashioned, 108 Ward, Philip, 17, 45, 107, 108, 158, 131 Waring blender, 103, 150 Washington D.C., 86, 87, 94 Washington Post, 142 Washington State, 134 Washington, D.C., 139, 65 Watergate, 71 Waugh, Thomas, 127 Weber, Nathan, 57 Westchester, 115 Whiskey, 82, 96-99 Whiskey Cocktail, 90, 109 Whiskey Collins, 62 Whiskey Sour, 31, 70 Whiskey, American, 177 Whistle Pig, 98 White House, 103 White Negroni, 119, 120 White Russian, 149 Who Dares Wins, 147 Widow’s Kiss, 50 Wild Turkey, 111 Wild Turkey Rye, 177 Williamson, George A., 87 Winchester, Angus, 116 Winnie the Pooh, 38 Winter Daiquiri, 104, 105 Winter, George, 109 Wisconsin, 166 WMF Loft, 173 Wnjones.com, 175 Wolfe, Tom, 84 Wondrich, David, 15, 53, 62, 72, 89 Woon, Basil, 72 Word War I, 33 World War II, 113, 119 Wray & Nephew, 105, 183, 186

XO Cognac, 78 Yeoman Tonic Syrup, 189 Yokohama, 86 Young, Naren, 119 YouTube, 156 Yuletide, 165

Zacapa, 142

Zig Zag Café, 18, 19, 39, 21 Zombie, 160, 161, 162, 162 Zyliss, 175 ZZ’s Clam Bar, 127

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