Carhartt x storror

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Carhartt WIP x Storror A selection of urban, parkour inspired pieces, suitably designed for movement

Work in Progress (WIP), founded in 1994, is the streetwear version of the Carhartt brand. WIP has developed a contemporary style, product range and customer base. It has been popularised by the urban fashion culture and has been worn by everyone from hip hop artists to Hollywood actors. Celebrity endorsements and designer collaborations have firmly established WIP within the fashion industry. Some of their most notable collaborations have been with Adam Kimmel, A.P.C and Converse. WIP introduces a new collaboration almost every season, usually with an urban sport such as skateboarding or BMX. In this new collaboration, WIP teams up with Storrer for a Spring/Summer 18 line of parkour inspired pieces. Storror is one of the world’s leading parkour brands. This is appropriate because WIP has a close relationship with the urban culture and parkour’s popularity is growing rapidly.

This portfolio has three core sections; process, profile and range. Process explores product development and the life of a garment. Profile provides an overview of Carhartt WIP, including the brand ethos, image and products. Range introduces the Carhartt x Storror line.

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CONTENTS

PROCESS Page 3 2

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PROFILE

RANGE

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Page 19

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PROCESS

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PROCESS

Product Development Change is an essential component of fashion and to remain competitive businesses need to deliver innovative products at the right time and price. This is achieved through product development. Product development is the strategic, creative, technical, production, and distribution planning of goods (Keiser and Garner, 2012).

Product Positioning Depending on their position in the marketplace, firms will select a price point or price range. This is usually inline with their competitors, for example Nike are in the same price category as Adidas. In most cases, there is an implied relationship between price and quality.

Product developers will assess this relationship to create their product range. Products with a higher price tag tend to be made from more expensive materials and they have better craftsmanship. Other factors can alter pricing such as sustainability and country of origin.

Strategic Planning Strategic planning occurs at the top level of the business and it is where the major objectives, purposes, or goals and essential policies are defined. These goals are achieved through a strategy which is applied to every level of the business. Strategic planning therefore affects every stage of product development.

For example, Superdry’s strategy focuses on global expansion and as a result their production has been increasingly outsourced to international markets.

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The Supply Chain

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Today’s apparel supply chain is a complex network of suppliers and vendors involved directly or indirectly in fulfilling customer demand for apparel (Keiser and Garner, 2012). The supply chain includes all companies involved in designing, manufacturing and distributing. Other auxiliary businesses in the supply chain include software providers, sourcing agents, testing labs and advertising agents. The supply chain is regulated by international trade agreements, government agencies and other external agencies. The he supply chain is where concepts turn into goods.

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PROCESS Creative Planning Creative planning tracks trends and interprets them for the company’s target market.

Trend Forecasting

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Long-Term Forecasting Long term forecasters anticipate directional shifts in business strategies, consumer behaviour and lifestyle, and global dynamics.

The envision the likely future for five years out or more. Long-term forecasting is used by designer fashion brands such as Dior.

A trend is what’s popular at a certain point in time. It is the direction in which ideas, products and values tend to move in a way that affects culture, society and business (Keiser and Garner, 2012).

Fashion is dynamic and is constantly changing. Trend forecasters must understand the sources of fashion change .

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COLOUR

Short-Term Forecasting

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Short term forecasters focus on current and upcoming events that can be translated into fashion trends in the next 12 months.

Short-term forecasting is used by fast fashion brands such as Zara and Boohoo.

SILHOUETTE

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FABRIC AND TRIMS

Technical Design

Quality

Organisations must build quality into a product from its conception. To achieve a consistent quality, organisations rely on quality assurance. This is a commitment that works across every level of the business. A lack of quality is actually more expensive. It can be very costly to order fabrics not by specification and defects creates wastage and customer dissatisfaction.

Successful organisations will have a strict quality control team in place.

Specifications

Specifications are graphic representations and written descriptions of styling, materials, dimensions and production procedures for a garment.

They help produce accurate samples, which improves turnaround time and simplifies communication during all stages of manufacturing. Design specs is based on the line plane and the initial illustrations. Technical specs detail how the garment will be produced.

Sizing

Costumers consistently cite fit as their biggest frustration when buying clothes. Therefore, if a line is selliing well then the fit is usually good. Product developers work to provide consistency of fit across all their lines. Fit can vary across brands and sizing is established to identify a target customer.

Sizing is influenced by trends, styles, fabrics and culture. In sizing, there are specifications on body measurements.

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PROCESS Production and Distribution

Production To meet customer expectations and maintain profitability, organisations are increasingly outsourcing their production.

Production includes the sourcing of materials and manufacturing of garments.

Good product developers will determine the most cost efficient means of production at a specified quality and time frame.

Organisations can choose to source domestically or globally. There are advantages to both types, but more companies are choosing the global sourcing strategy, Global sourcing offers lower costs, expertise, and availability of materials and labour. By far the largest supplier to western based companies is China. China is a powerhouse of global sourcing. Other growing markets in production include Bangladesh, Cambodia and Vietnam.

There are numerous methods available for sourcing materials and producing garments, for example Cut, make and trim (CMT). There are also sourcing agents and trade shows to help product developers in the creation of their garments.

Case Study: Private White V.C. Factory, Manchester (UK)

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Domestic Sourcing Although the volume of domestic sourcing has significantly decreased, some fashion labels still choose to include domestically owned manufacturing facilities. Private White VC, for example, takes total ownership of their supply chain and handcrafts their garments in Manchester (UK). Their products are designed, produced and marketed all under one roof. Sourcing domestically is appropriate for the brand because it their British Heritage is crucial to the brand image.

Case Study: Boohoo Distribution Centre, Burnley (UK)

Distrubtion Consumers can purchase goods instore, online or through a wholesaler. These are the three main channels of distribution.

In order to ensure efficient distribution of goods, organisations must quantify how much of each product they are going to sell and how products are going to be transported. They must think about different geographic locales in terms of their retail stores, distribution centres and head office. A store’s geographic location, for example, has to represent the brand’s image.

Furthermore, a firm’s distribution centre needs to be located close to good transport links. These decisions regarding location will maximise efficiency and reduce costs.

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Online shopping giant boohoo has located its distribution centre in Burnley (UK). Burnley has good transport connections to the rest of the UK and the facility costs are cheaper than other urban areas. However, Boohoo has saturated the the local labour force and filled all available storage space. In order to solve some of their distribution problems, Boohoo has invested more in a new automated distribution centre. The warehouse is expected to cost more than £150 million over the next three years (burnleyexpress, 2017).

The new centre will help Boohoo process over 20-30,000 orders each day.

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PROCESS

FIBRE PRODUCTION YARN PRODUCTION TEXTILE PRODUCTION APPAREL PRODUCTION RETAILERS FINAL CUSTOMER

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PROFILE

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PROFILE

INTRODUCING

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PROFILE

The History of Cahrartt WIP 1889 - 1994 16 Carhartt WIP windbreaker featured in Vogue. Image shot by Mario Testino.

Under the title ‘All American Concept’, Edwin Faeh starts to introduce distinctly American products to the European Market. Work in Progress (WIP) is established.

1997 The first store exclusively featuring Carhartt WIP products in Europe opens in Neal street, London Foundation of the Carhartt WIP Skate and BMX Teams

2000 Carhartt WIP presents the first collection for women

17 Matthew McConaughey

2010 Collaborations include: APC., Adam Kimmel, Burton, Master-mind, Fragment Design, Sophnet, Uniform Experiment, Vans and many more

2014 Carhartt WIP celebrates it’s 25th Anniversary 18 A.P.C. x Carhartt WIP Autumn/Winter 2013

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PROFILE Inspirations

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Skateboarding

Hip Hop

Heritage

Since the beginning, WIP has built a strong relationship with skateboarding. This is demonstrated throughout their product range, which includes skate accessories and even a skateboarding magazine. Recent collaborations with UK skateboarding brands ISLE and French New-Gen have further established WIP as a favourite brand among skaters.

The popularity of WIP has always been spurred on by American rappers. It has been worn by Kanye West and Jay Z, and WIP even collaborated with Eminem on several special edition items. The brand has further worked to meet the needs of Hip Hop artists by designing their products in line with key urban trends, like extremely baggy clothing.

The evolution of WIP has always been informed by Carhartts heritage and principles.

WIP shares the same strong brand ethos that champions durability, style and quality.

They also market themselves in the same framework as Carhartt, as an ‘all-american’ family business. WIPs design may be more contemporary, but their products essentailly remain the same.

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BMX

Protests

BMX is an essential part of the street culture and for that WIP demonstrates its commitment and commonality to this sport. WIP associates with BMX by sponsoring BMX riders worldwide and having a thriving BMX Pro World Team. Key product collaborations include the Mike Miller edit. Mike Miller is a British BMX champion.

WIPs support for the urban youth culture was demonstrated during the 2011 England Riots. A now-iconic image from the riots was WIPs own outlet store in Hackney being looted, which the brand used to create a printed t-shirt. Even though thousands of pounds worth of stock was stolen, Carhartt wanted to show solidarity with its customers and support the movement.

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PROFILE

Market Level

High end Off White

Carhartt WIP

Mid Market

Primark

High Street

Competitors

WIP is often compared to other streetwear brands, such as Stussy and Supreme. Their competitors sit within the middle market level.

The price range of their clothing starts at around ÂŁ30 for a basic t-shirt and goes up to ÂŁ400 for a coat. Their design and brand image is also inspired by urban culture, sport and music. Some of their competitors have similar backgrounds, for example North Face and Dickies started in performance and work wear but have incorporated

Dickies Patagonia Supreme Champion North Face Stussy

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PROFILE Key Garments

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Detroit Jacket 100% cotton corduroy collar nylon lining

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Acrylic Watch Hat 100% Acrylic

Cargo Pant 100% cotton

Key Colours

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Key Fabrics WIP tends to use the same fabrics as Carhartt’s work wear range. Usually a 100% cotton , they are lightweight and very durable.

Cotton Canvas

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The carhartt line of canvas garmants are made of a lightweight 9-ounce, 100% cotton canvas. Cotton canvas is extremely cool and confortable. yet durable enough to resist abrasions, tear outs and cuts.

Cotton Denim

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Carhartt’s denim sets the standard for quality and design. The denim is designed to be strong enough for the job site, yet stylish enough for weekend wear.

Cotton Duck

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Carhartt’s duck line is made of heavy wright, 12-ounce, 100% cotton duck. The fabric is tightly woven with no gaps where the yarns interlace, therefore making it wind and snag resistant. Cotton duck is known for its quality, durability and comfort.

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PROFILE Key Finishes and Trims

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Carhartt Square Label

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Graphic Prints

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Logo Embroidery

Personalised Brass Buttons

Key Shapes T-shirt, short sleeve, crew neck, loose fit

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Sweatshirt, long sleeve, crew neck, loose fit

Detroit Jacket 47 Jeans, straight leg, cuff detail

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49 Utility pant, tapered fit

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PROFILE Customer Profile From skaters to musicians, rappers and graffiti artists, WIP is synonymous with the urban culture. The mid market price range means it is accesible to most consumers, but it tends to be worn by the successful, rich and famous. Due to the higher prices it is mostly puchased by young and middle aged adults. Even though WIP introduced their women’s range in 2000, the brand is still more popular with men.

Artistic Mid - high budget

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Urban

Sporty

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Adventurous

Musical

Successful

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20-50 yrs 57

Trendy

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PROFILE Marketing

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Collaborations Earlier this summer, WIP premiered its latest skate film. The film, titled O3EPO, featured WIP’s own skateboard team and Russian ​ brand Absurd Skateboards. Collaborations attract new customers and creates interest. WIP typially collaborates with music, BMX and skateboarding

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Celebrity Endorsements Rapper Kanye West and pop star Rihanna wearing Carhartt WIP

Corporate Social Responsibility

Carhartt WIP claims to be very aware of the environment and human rights challenges presented by global sourcing. The organisation has introduced a Code of Conduct that establishes expectations for all their suppliers and licence relationships regarding sustainability. However, after researching the brands CSR policy further, it appears they are underperforming in this area. Their CSR statement, which is written above, is very broad and does little to state what Carhartt WIP are actually doing to make their business more ethical and sustainable, moreover the label can no longer guarantee ‘sweatfree’ production after outsourcing their production in 2009. If you compare their CSR activities to some of their competitors, such as Patagonia, there is a stark contrast. It will be argued here that Carhartt should improve their CSR operations and become a more sustainable and ethical organisation.

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RANGE

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RANGE

x Spring/Summer 18 The philosophies behind parkour are an integral aspect of the art. Practitioners describe it as ‘a state of mind’ rather than a set of actions. It is just as much about overcoming and adapting to mental and emotional obstacles as well as physical barriers. Parkour creates a new relationship between the practitioner and the urban environment. The use and meaning of metropolitan space is transformed.

In this capsule collection, Carhartt WIP teams up Storror to create a menswear line inspired by parkour.

Therangefeaturesthree garments that are functional and stylish. Part of the Spring/Summer 18season, the range features soft and dusty earth tones. Just like the urban environment, colours appear sedimented and polluted. The choice of materials are light and breathable to allow maximum movement.

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RANGE Storror is a collective of seven elite athletes from the UK. The team grew up together and share a fundamental love of movement.

They create the most exciting parkour content available on the web and after six years they are at forefront of the global parkour scene. Storror has even developed a parkour shoe and clothing line.

However, the team faced a number of challenges during the product development process, such as finding designers. Another barrier to the project has been funding. Storror could gain insight into product development through a collaboration with Carhartt WIP.

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219 k Instagram Followers

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19.6 k Twitter Followers 327k Vine Loops 19.6 k Twitter followers 649k Youtube Subscribers 183k Youtube Subscribers 63

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Previous clients

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RANGE The Rise of Parkour Popular Culture - Parkour has become a popular element in action sequences for film and television. In 2006, the James Bond film Casino Royale featured Daniel Craig in a parkour style chase scene. Parkour has further been incorporated into number video games such as Assassin’s Creed and Mirror’s Edge.

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Purpose

The purpose of the Carhartt WIP x Storrer collaboration is to incorporate another urban sport within the WIP brand. WIP has generated lots of success by teaming up with urban sports, especially skateboarding and BMX. In addition, Parkour is growing and has a large social media presence and following.

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RANGE

Trend

S/S 18

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Context

Style

Slow futures is about remembering the past in order to reimage the future.

The Slow Futures trend fuses traditional craftmanship with innovative design in order to create a down to earth styling direction.

‘At a time when life is becoming more virtual, there is a renewed appreciation of touch as a basic human need, resulting in a counter-movement towards the real, tactile and the textured. The physical assurance of our surroundings assumes new importance.’ (WGSN, 2017) Slow futures is appropriate for this range because it challenges the industrial world. Just like the Slow Futures trend, parkour seeks to reimage the urban environment.

Rustic minimlalism is both timeless and futuristic in this trend. The look is all about luxurious simplicity, driven by a focus on texture and shape.

Materials are engineered to feel luxurious and natural to create a sense of warmth. Furthermore, garments are meant to look worn and aged by time.

The slow futures trend is further inspired by innovate fabrics. Lightness and durability are key properties for this trend.

Key Colours

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Dusty Earth Tones Key Materials

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Sanded Basics

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Chalk Finishes

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Natural Fibres

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RANGE Market Research Product Interview with the Evolve Centre, Manchester The Carhartt WIP x Storror range has been informed by a product interview with Manchester’s Evolve Centre. Evolve provides training classes for parkour and freerunning, freestyle fitness, trapeze, silks and personal training. They offer a completely different way of exercising and excelling.

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Cotton Fibres

Loose Fitting

Lightweight

Zips

The interview was conducted with Evolve’s head coach, Denislav Stoynev. His knowledge of parkour and product has been fundamental in the building of this range. The key product qualities discussed in the interview are listed below.

Durable

Cuff Details

Stylish

Mid-High Price Range

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RANGE Sourcing

Each garment is made from Storm Cotton. Storm Cotton is a super water repellent finish that helps protect from rain and dirt. Furthermore, it dries faster, while maintaining the natural comfort of cotton. Even after 30 washes, garments treated with Storm Cotton maintain water repellancy.

The blend of 97% Cotton and 3% Elastane makes this fabric lightweight, cool and breathable. The elastane adds stretch for maximum movement, making it excellent for parkour.

Storm Cotton is manufactured by Turkish textile manufacturer Sanko. Sanko Textiles are worldwide leaders in premium yarns and textiles. Inspired by passion, honesty, transparency and sustainability, Sanko was founded in 2000 and have become one of Turkey’s largest industrial textile groups.

Additional trims will be sourced from China, such as invisible zips.

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Production and Distribution

Carhartt owns and operates four unionised factories in the USA, which are used for their workwear line. The labels t shirts, sweatshirts and accessories are outsourced to factories in Tunisia and Mexico, which are also company owned.

The Carhartt WIP x Storror range will be manufactured in a oversea’s facility, in order to drive down prices and make the range accessible to the Carhartt customer. Costing is important because the Storm Cotton is technical and expensive.

Additional costs include graphic prints, trims and other finishes.

The range will be distributed in store and online.

Because this is a special collaboration, it will not be distributed through wholesale.

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RANGE Hood Drawstring

Graphic Print

Baggy Fit

Polyester

Men’s Sweatshirt

Cuff detail Materials

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Drawstring Detail

Graphic Print

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RANGE

Crew neck

Storror Graphic Print

Loose Fit

Carhartt Square Label

Polyester Thread

Men’s Graphic T-shirt

Pantone 13-1105 TCX

Carhartt Square Label 100% Cotton

Graphic Print

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RANGE Elastic Waistband

Drawstring detail

Invisible Zip

Embroidery logo

Drop Crotch

Baggy Fit

Cuff detail

Men’s Sweatpants

PANTONE 19-4005 TCX

Embroidery Logo Detail

Invisble Zip

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