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CONTENTS 4 Introduction 5 COS 11 Rad Hourani 17 Business Opportunity 20 COS x Rad Hourani 36 Forecasting 38 Conclusion
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INTRODUCTION In this range, the premium lifestyle brand COS teams up with high end designer Rad Hourani. The aim of this collaboration is to develop a range of unisex garments for the Spring/Summer 18 season. The range is inspired by the idea of neutrality and genderless fashion. This is appropriate because our perceptions of gender are changing. Gender lines are blurring, especially within fashion. Men are now wearing skirts, heeled boots and make up. Women are also adopted a more androgynous look. The popularity of this trend is already visible on the high street with many big name brands offering gender free clothing, such as Zara and River Island. Furthermore, this trend is expected to grow, with many influencers describing it as ‘the future of fashion’. The following sections of this proposal will explain why COS x Rad Hourani is a good collaboration. An in-depth analysis of the business opportunity will also be provided, along with a comprehensive overview of the range.
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Part of the H&M group, COS launched in 2007 with a flagship store on London’s Regent Street (Business of Fashion, 2017). Since then the brand has expanded globally and now has 197 stores in 34 countries (cosstores.com, 2017). The collections combine ready-to-wear, accessories and shoes for women, men and children.
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CONCEPT
COS sits between high street and luxury fashion. Like most high-end fashion brands, they release two collections a year. The brand’s aim is to provide design quality at an affordable price. (Dezeen, 2014).
COS is unlike any other high street brand because they aren’t trend specific. Instead, they focus on long term fashionability. The collections are described as ‘timeless’ and ‘functional’. Each garment is ‘‘made to be worn beyond the season’’ (COS, 2017). 6
INSPIRATIONS Committed to supporting the world of art and design, COS partners with established and emerging artists all around the world. In 2016, COS collaborated with the Guggenheim Museum in New York to create an Agnes Martin inspired collection. Martin was a visionary painter whose work bridged the abstract expressionist and minimalist movements. Incorporating her delicate colour palette and geometric prints, COS created a 12-piece line for men and women (archtecturaldesign.com, 2016).
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COS x Agnus Martin 7
‘‘Art drives so much of what we do at COS. It shapes how we think, how we design and how we create” (cosstore. com, 2017)
Agnus Martin Painting
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DESIGN
COS’s design is simple, functional and understated. The brand uses mostly natural fibres, like cotton, wool, silk and linen, but also experiments with more technical/unconventional materials. Black, white, grey and navy make up the core colour palette. Pastel shades are also used to highlight seasons and trends. Importantly, tactility goes throughout the brand. COS is very interested in the way their fabrics feel and how their garments are presented (LA Times, 2014). The stores, for example, have raw steel rails, warm timber furniture and large glass windows.
KEY SILOUHETTES
KEY MATERIALS
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Cashmere
Cotton
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Polyester
Wool
KEY COLOURS COS’s core colour palette reflects their interest in architecture and modernity. It is clean, minimalist and timeless.
Accent colours.
Petal Pink - Pantone 11-2309 TPG
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Ambrosia - Pantone 12-0109 TPX
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Cannoli Cream - Pantone 114302 TCX
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Spa Blue - Pantone 12-4305 TPX
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TARGET CONSUMER The target consumer is working men and women, aged 25-40 yrs old, but its customers probably range between 20-60 yrs old. They are fashionable, modern and intellectual. Their style is minimalist, functional and clean.
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What unites their customer base is that they are relatively affluent and cosmopolitan. Karin Gustafsson, the brand’s head of womenswear, explains their customers have a ‘big-city mindset’ (Evening Standard, 2013). They like culture, art and architecture. They are very career driven.
PRICING T-Shirts : Knitwear : Trousers: Coats & Jackets :
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COMPETITORS
£12 - 39 £45 - 135 £45 - 250 £65 - 225
(cosstores.com)
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RAD HOURANI DESIGNER
PHOTOGRAPHER
ARTIST
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ABOUT Rad hourani is a Canadian designer, photographer and artist known for his neutral, genderless creations. His clothing line has a vampy, futuristic style, and it is completely unisex. While other designers experiment with androgyny, Rad completely disregards it. He sees the future of fashion as being free of limit, gender, age, religion, and race. 23
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FASHION
ART & PHOTOGRAPHY
Rad Hourani’s clothing range includes outerwear, tops, bottoms and accessories. Ready to wear items can be purchased online and in a number of boutiques around the world. The luxury price tag positions the label at the top end of the market. The shadowy and geometric pieces are designed to fit all body shapes, regardless of gender. His aesthetic is described as simple and complex.
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Rad Hourani is first and foremost an artist. Before starting in fashion, he worked heavily with film and photography. He now exhibits his works in museums around the world, including the Tate Modern in London, the Herning Museum in Denmark and the FIT Museum in New York. Just like his clothing line, his work is an attentive study of the human body that celebrates neutrality as a defining human trait.
RAD HOURANI & COS Rad Hourani and COS is an appropriate collaboration because they are both influenced by the world of Art. COS even has a dedicated online space called Projects, where they work with artists and museums to inform their design process. COS would work with Rad Hourani to create a capsule collection that incorporates his design principles. Rad Hourani would be interested in the collaboration because it would raise his profile as an artist and fashion designer. It is not unusual for high-end designers to collaborate with high street brands, for example the H&M x Balmain range was hugely successful.
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Neutrality Exhibition
The range makes further sense because both brands share a similar style. They are minimalist, understated and modern, but they different enough to make the collaboration worthwhile. Rad Hourani’s range is more geometric, the colour palette is more restrained and it is completely unisex. COS has played with the idea of androgony in the past, but has not yet released any unisex garments. Furthermore, both brands have been described as having a workwear style (BBC, 2017). The range would appeal to costumers because gender identity has become an important social, political and cultural topic. More and more retailers are creating unisex ranges, especially within childrenswear. This is because people’s perceptions of gender are changing.
“A genderless style of dress for the workplace of the future” (BBC, 2017)
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Rad Hourani
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BUSINESS OPPORTUNITY: MILLENNIALS AND GENDER FLUIDITY Every year, The Business of Fashion and Mckinsey & Company come together to produce a report entitled ‘The State of Fashion’. The aim is to address the factors shaping and driving fashion today and in the year to come. In 2016, genderless fashion was highlighted as one of the key trends that shaped the year. It was part of broader theme entitled Consumer Kinship, which focused on emerging consumer tribes. Other customer lifestyles mentioned in this section were athleisure, plus-size and modest wear fashion (The State of Fashion, 2017). The surge of genderless fashion is the result of a broader social change. Traditional portrayals of masculinity and femininity based on gender are becoming blurred, as gender fluditity and androgyny become the norm, rather than the exception (Forbes, 2017). This shift in perceptions is being driven by millennials. In a survey from the LGBTQ organization GLAAD, it was found that 20% of millennials consider themselves something other than strictly straight and cisgender (TIME, 2017). Furthermore, a recent Fusion poll found that 50% of millennials believe gender is actually a spectrum, rather than two distinct forms (Forbes, 2017). This shows that millennials are more free thinking and individualistic.
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Millennials are important because they represent the future of fashion. They are everyone born between 1980 and 2000. Their influence on the market is so huge that brands are changing the way they communicate and operate. By 2025, it is estimated that millennials will account for 45% of the global luxury goods market (Forbes, 2017). By 2035, millennials will have the potential to become the largest spending generation in history (WWD, 2016). Every brand should therefore be targeting millennials if they want to remain competitive. This means adopting their attitudes, beliefs and perceptions of fashion.
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WHY GENDER NEUTRAL FASHION IS A TREND
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You don’t need to identity as gender neutral or transgender to wear clothes made for the opposite sex. Genderless and androgynous fashion is one of the biggest trends of the last 50 years. The trend started back in the Sixties and Seventies when the gender equality movement changed the role of women in the workplace (Vogue.co.uk, 2016). Before this, it was deemed unfeminine for a women to wear trousers. The trend has evolved and there are now very few dress codes when it comes to the sexes.
The trend has been spurred on by celebrities. Some of the world’s biggest stars have an androgynous style, for example Jaden Smith is pictured wearijng a Louis Vuitton womenswear skirt. Harry Styles wore Gucci heeled boots and even Miley Cyrus opened up about her identity as being non-binary (TeenVouge.com, 2017). Kanye West, Jared Leto and David Bowie have also embraced all manner of skirts, bows and blouses (GQ.com, 2015).
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Genderless fashion is starting to appear on the high street. Zara, River Island and John Lewis are just a few of the retailers to offer unisex clothing. The trend is more popular within designer fashion. Burberry, J W Anderson and Acne like to push the boundaries of what sex and gender mean. 31
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67%
of men agree that the lines between masculine and feminine have blurred in recent years
‘Blurring of gender lines is undoubtedly the future of fashion‘ (Alexandra Shulman, 2017)
(mintel, 2017)
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SELFRIDGeS’
Of childrenswear con-
sumers would like retailers to offer more gender neutral clothing
biggest campaign of 2015, entitled ‘Agender’, launched five unisex collections and 40 additional brands to be worn by any sex
(mintel,2017)
(mintel, 2016)
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The COS x Rad Hourani range is a unisex line inspired by the idea of neutrality. The range features six unisex garments that are genderless and ageless. The muted colour palette and architectural style fits into both brand’s aesthetic. Part of the Spring/Summer 18 season, the range uses light weight materials and is highlighted by soft pastel colours. The purpose of the range is to generate interest around COS and raise the profile of Rad Hourani as a fashion designer and artist.
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Youth Tonic explores the new youth-focused direction that is influencing markets and brands. In this trend, design is liberated from notions of gender, age and limits. Consumers will embrace new ideas and identities. Rules will be broken and categories mixed (WGSN.com, 2017). Youth Tonic comes with the rise of Gen Z, and with Gen X and Boomers living longer and younger than ever before.
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STYLE
COLOUR
The energy of youth is communicated through a range of electric colours. The odd colour contrasts represent the rebellious spirit of Gen Z.In this trend, colours are also subdued to ease into the summer transitional drop (WGSN.com, 2017).
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Electric pastels are fun, soft and elegant. They are also versatile and gender neutral. Tones such as electric lilac and limeade are free from strong gender associations. Youth Tonic will be used in the COS x Rad Hourani range for accent colours. The core colour palette will be black, white and silver to fit in with both brands aesthetic.
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MATERIALS
S/S 18 TREND
Textiles become more liberated and creative in this trend. There is a more customised approach to design. Garments and textiles are not categorised between genders (WGSN.com, 2017). - Bright and playful colours update lightweight shirting textiles. - Urban environments inspire geometric prints. - Heavy weight fabrics use thick-and-thin, matteand-shine or flat-and-textured contrasts. - Technical polyester plains and unusual finishes create a modern look and feel. 36
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PRODUCTION AND DISTRIBUTION The range will be sourced from one of the 60 suppliers that currently work with COS. Part of the H&M group, COS has their garments maufactured in many locations across Europe and Asia (cosstores.com, 2017). Normally, these are ‘cut and sew’ factories. Importantly, all factories used by the H&M group have their sustainability performance assessed and supported (hm.com, 2017).
The range will be launched online and in five of COS’s largest UK stores - Birmingham, Glasgow, London (Regent Street), London (Knightsbridge) and London (Covent Garden). This is to increase the exclusivity of the range. When H&M launched their collaboration with high end designer Erdem, it was only available in five UK stores (hm.com. 2017). This also reduces the risk of the range underperforming.
SIZING The range will use Rad Hourani’s unisex sizes. This is to avoid confusion between the different size systems used for men and women. Each garment will come in 0, 1, 2 and 3. This translates into XS, S, M and L. Figure 1 is the size chart used on Rad Hourani’s website and will be featured on the COS website and clearly displayed instore. In order to fit both sexes, the range will have a loose fit. This is not seen as a limitation because COS doesn’t use a tailored fit in their main collection. For example, most of their womenswear trousers come in a wide leg. Elasticated waistbands will also be used to help fit both sexes.
(Rad Hourani. com, 2017)
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COS’s womenswear has loose fitting style
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It is important to note that the garments in this range will not fit everyone. Very tall men and petite women might struggle to find clothes that fit. It doesn’t make sense to expand the size range beyond XS and L because this is a limited edition capsule collection. Furthermore, the range’s sizing is in line with the competition. Zara’s ungendered collection comes in S, M and L (Zara.com, 2017).
SELLING PERIOD The range will be sold over 4 weeks (March 2018). The short run time is in line with COS’s other collaborations, such as the Agnus Martin line. The purpose of these short collaborations is to create interest around COS and continue the brand’s ongoing relationship with art. 44
RISK
The biggest risk is that some garments will not be popular with male consumers, specifically the skirt and dress. The chance of this occurring is reduced due to the limited run time of the range and the limited quantity that will be ordered. The aim is to sell out completely of every garment, so that nothing goes on sale. In addition, COS is very popular among women, who will likely buy most of the range.
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SUSTAINABILITY
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COS and Rad Hourani both believe in timeless fashion. Their collections merge timeless designs with modern trends. This means their clothes can be worn beyond the current season. This is good in terms of sustainability because the fashion industry has one the highest amounts of wastage in the world.
PANTONE Black Beauty 19-3911 PANTONE 877 C PANTONE Bright White 11-0601 TPX PANTONE Pearled Ivory 11-0907 TPX
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Unisex Kimono Coat - Fashion Piece A casual style, this unisex Kimono Coat is made from a lightweight cotton blend with a metallic quality. Designed for a loose fit, it has two open side pockets.
57% Cotton / 39% Viscose / 4% Elastane Dry Clean PANTONE 877 C
COS X Rad Hourani Label
Unisex Classic Shirt - Fashion Piece This unisex shirt is made from contrasting panels of smooth cotton poplin and a silky cotton blend. An oversized fit, it is completed with a button fastening placket.
100% Cotton Poplin 57% Cotton / 39% Viscose / 4% Elastane Dry Clean
COS X Rad Hourani Label
PANTONE 877 C PANTONE Bright White 11-0601 TPX
*All materials taken from www.cosstores.co.uk
*All CAD images taken from www.wgsn.com
*All colours taken from www.pantone.com 27
Unisex Skirt - Fashion Piece This unisex skirt is made from a drapy cotton blend. An A-line fit, it has a pleated detail on the front, an elasticated waistband and clean edges. The skirt comes in two colours, black or silver grey.
50% Cotton / 50% Tencel Lyocell Machine washable
PANTONE 877 C PANTONE Black Beauty 19-3911
COS X Rad Hourani Label
*All materials taken from www.cosstores.co.uk
*All CAD images taken from www.wgsn.com
*All colours taken from www.pantone.com 28
Unisex Trousers With Elastic Waist - Core Basic These unisex trousers are from a lightweight cotton blend . Designed for a cropped wide-leg fit, they have in seam pockets and elasticated waistband. The trousers come in two colours, black and ivory.
50% Cotton / 50% Tencel Lyocell Machine washable
PANTONE Black Beauty 19-3911 PANTONE Pearled Ivory 11-0907 TPX
COS X Rad Hourani Label
*All materials taken from www.cosstores.co.uk
*All CAD images taken from www.wgsn.com
*All colours taken from www.pantone.com 29
Unisex Dress - Fashion Piece An elegant sleeveless style, this unisex dress is made from two light weight cotton blends. With an A-line fit and rounded neckline, this piece is both timeless and contemporary.
50% Cotton / 50% Tencel Lyocell 57% Cotton / 39% Viscose / 4% Elastane Dry Clean PANTONE 877 C PANTONE Black Beauty 19-3911
COS X Rad Hourani Label
Unisex Baseball Cap - Core basics A classic piece, the baseball cap is made from a smooth satin twill with an adjustable back strap and metal clap.
100% Polyester
PANTONE 877 C
COS X Rad Hourani Label
*All materials taken from www.cosstores.co.uk *All CAD images taken from www.wgsn.com *All colours taken from www.pantone.com 30
Unisex Cotton T-shirt - Core basic An everyday essential, this simple round-neck T-shirt is cut from pima cotton with an extra soft feel. A loose fit, it has a ribbed neck line and short sleeves. It comes in four colours chosen from the WGSN Youth Tonic trend.
100% Pima Cotton
Artificial Yellow 11-0710 TCX Electric Lilac 15-3412 TCX Limeade 13-0117 TCX Bue Boy 13-4308 TCX
COS X Rad Hourani Label
*All materials taken from www.cosstores.co.uk *All CAD images taken from www.wgsn.com *All colours taken from www.pantone.com 31
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FORECASTING COLOUR ASSORTMENTS:
SIZE ASSORTMENTS:
INSTORE RATE OF SALE: PER DAY
SALES FORECAST: MARCH 2018
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BUDGET According to PWC’s 2017 Total Retail Survey, nearly half of global shoppers prefer to purchase clothing and footwear online (PWC, 2017). It can therefore be assumed that the number of sales made in store accounts for the same amount online. However, because this range is only available in a select number of stores, the online sales figure is expected to be double. The margin used for the range is 70%. This is in line with the other premium high street brands. For example, Whistles profit margin for 2012 was 68.29 % (FAME..com, 2017)
(Margin = 70%)
The profit made on this range is forecasted to be £339,586. This is considered a success because this is limited edition capsule collection. In addition, the range is likely to attract more customers instore and online. This is due to the hype surrounding genderless fashion. As a result, COS’s overall sales will increase.
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CONCLUSION
The COS x Rad Hourani range makes for an exciting business opportunity because it has social, cultural and political relevance. Genderless fashion is undoubtedly one of the key factors that is going to influence society in future years. If all the factors which effects society are considered in sync with fashion then this range is commercially viable. This range also presents an opportunity to generate publicity and interest around COS. It would further benefit Rad Hourani by raising his profile as a artist and fashion designer. Lastly, and most importantly, this range develops COS’s relationship with the world of art.
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