Denim

Exploring Denim DEA 2510 Claire Choi

Table of Contents

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An Introduction

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Where did it all begin?

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Levi Strauss & Co.

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A Developing History

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Denim Meets War & High Fashion

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Film & Music

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Denim Today & Conclusion

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Bibliography

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Fig.1 College students in denim jeans

An Introduction Denim fabric has played the most powerful and transformative of roles in all aspects from fashion to culture. Unlike other fabrics, denim has been able to fluidly move through time as a key influencer in wartime, workplace history and a staple in the modern, everyday wardrobe. My goal is to understand what qualities denim possesses that has made it and continues to make it so transferable.

The Main Question: What role has denim fabric played in history across cultures and as a popular culture influence? How has it broken away from its original function and shifted into alternative, ubiquitous roles?

In this magazine I will be analyzing all aspects and influences of denim from its role in arts culture and fashion to workplace and history. Although not all questions can be answered, this is my beginning.

“Objects are what matter. Only they carry the evidence that throughout the centuries something really happened among human beings.�

Levi Strauss

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Where did it The origin story of denim is rooted in Europe and was truly carried

into its power by Western culture. It’s powerful strong hold in film, art, war, and overall history and culture is something that will be dicussed in the later pages.

So, where does the journey start?

Strangely enough, this fabric’s creation was the result of of two joined influences and there is still no a one hundred percent clear history or pathway. The name “denim” itself is believed to have come from the French word “serge de Nimes,” which translates to “twill fabric from Nimes.” Nimes, a city within Southern France, is the birth place of this fabric made of wool, linen, and silk (Co. 2017). The Andre family made a fortune off of this fabric through the silk trade and created the very sturdy characteristics of serge de Nimes that carried over into denim and Western fabric in work and play.

A second lens comes in from Genova, Italty. This is where the name “jeans” was started. The fabric created here was dyed with indigo and very durable, making it perfect for workers and sailors (w. It was often refered to as Bleu de Gênes, or the Blue of Genova. This point on the timeline is very reflective of Western and modern denim.

Fig. 2 Tagged Levis

Fig. 4 Illustration of Nimes, France

Fig. 3 Illustration of Sailors in Denim

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Because of its similar indigo dying technique and cotton fiber foundation, jean fabric effectively mirrors and sits as the beginning of the power of ubiqiuitous, yet unique and personal denim fabric. Like many, we begin in Europe.

all begin?

A Two Part Origin Story

Although Levi Strauss is the more popular name that comes to mind when thinknig about jeans or denim, there is an alternative, earlier story to be told. Jacob W. Davis is the one credited with the invention of jeans.

Specifically, he invented the copper rivets found on many Levis and other jeans that exist today after encountering a difficult customer whos work pants would not stay up long enough for his physical work. A true tailor at heart, Davis opened his own tailor in Nevada and upon his invention of the copper rivets, his tailoring became very popular. As orders continued to pile in, his competitors became gradually more and more fearful and jealous. To claim and ensure the rivet design as his own, he joined forces with Levi Strauss to apply for a patent (Marsh 12). This one customer and rivet design started and continued into what is now Levi Strauss and Co.

Jacob W. Davis Russian-born Americain Tailor

Origins of denim branch from cultures across the globe.

Perhaps it is its wide spread connection and branching out from the very beginning that has given it such power and relevance to this day. The ability of this fabric to hold such ubituity while also uniqueness and endless breadth of application is equally surprising and ensuring as it has played such consistency through all times of war and chaos in our world history.

It goes to say that invention and credibility of such innovations that remain impactful rely on many moving parts, with a history almost as complex as our world’s. A new question to address is whether this consistency has ever broken. If denim has spread itself across all outlets of culture, does this “breaking� simply further strengthen its original functions of durability and structure? There is always more to discuss and analyze with something as powerful as this.

Fig. 5 Jacob W. Davis

Fig. 6 Copper Rivet

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Levi Strauss & Co. Levi (Loeb) Strauss was born in Germany on

February 26, 1829. Working first in the food industry, his transition into the success of Levi Strauss & Co. was gradual, yet impactful. After immigrating from Bavaria to the United States, the timing of the California Gold Rush provided the opportunity for a reestablishing of his own dry food’s business. Going back to Jacob Davis, Levi’s company had provided the tailor with fabrics in the past, which ultimately led to their partnership. (Levi Strauss & Co. 2018).

Their success seems historically unmatched in regards to fabric and company relationships.

The simplicity of their concept and design mixed with unique marketing and consistency is what truly skyrocketed the company.

Hey! That’s me

Fig. 7 Levi Strauss

To this day, the name Levi is immediately associated with denim, jeans, and personal fashion choice and that power is the very thing being analyzed throughout this magazine.

Going back to the true marketing genius behind Levi’s, there are a couple key additions to their clothing products that are different from any other company. Historically, they took the denim market by storm through simple additions. The first being their copper rivets.

501 DAY 50 Fig. 8 Levi's Brass Buckle

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Fig. 9 Double Horse Logo

Although this was a complete coincidence, these rivets are what prompted the push. If not for this quick solution to a single customer, it is hard to say whether Jacob W. Davis and Levi would have ever joined forces. Rivets redefined workwear and clothing design to come, allowing for even sturdier and comfier wear.

The first logo they created was the Two Horse Trademark, which is meant to represent the resilience of the company amongst market and economic competition with the image showing two horses pulling apart a pair of jeans. This logo in itself showcases the goal of Levi Strauss & Co. from the beginning, aware of the mark they hoped and trusted to make.

Fig. 10 Levi's Red Tag

In 1936 they introduced the use of the Red Tab. Just as the name says it, this was a simple embroidered red tag that was added to the right back pocket of their jeans. With the simple addition of this tag, Levi’s made their company the more memorable. Additionally, they wanted to spread awareness of the attentive and detailed nautre of their ways and work.

This branding with a small, bright piece of fabric was paired with their 501 jeans, which were named after their lot number at the time. Throughout their history, this style of jean has yet to change. Consistency is their key and perhaps the consistency of denim in its ever changing roles is what has caused it to have this impact (Marsh 28).

In addition to marketing and strategy, the focus of their product was separate from other similar companies. Strauss focused on pants, which was unusual at the time. Their product promised and executed comfort and intimacy that came even as the denim aged. Their initial market was towards loggers and mining communities, narrowing their impact into work wear, which paralleled the historical context of the Gold Rush and war time. These will be further detailed in each of the following spreads.

01 DAY 501 7

Developing History. A D

A Developing Histo After James Marshall discovered gold in

the American River on January 24, 1848, California would never be the same. News of fortune and gold spread as migrants from all over began to center in the area. In 1849, people now referred to as the 49s came in search, hoping and praying to strike it right.

Populations grew exponentially as cities like San Francisco became hubs of both culture and violence (History 2010). The desire for profit and life line actions many took were almost delirious as a gold craze swept the nation. People sold all their items and shipped their families over to the West Coast and waiting for them was what they hoped was a new future.

Mining for gold in itself was and is an arduous task and denim was there to save the day. Denim waist overalls, shirts, pants, etc were perfect for the environment and conditions of such work. With such a sturdy, comfy, and long lasting fit, denim was the missing puzzle piece to the entirety that is workwear. Levi and Jacob couldn’t have had better timing (Townsend 2015). The idea of workwear was growing and about to change forever.

Fig. 11 Gold Miners

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Gold lllRush

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With such diverse groups of people entering the west, clothing was often a way to distinguish amongst race or wealth.

The name Levi Strauss seems to be the most frequently used in all of this magazine, but it is simply the effective design of their jeans that hit correctly. Strauss added patching and padding at the knees knowing that miners were running into issues with tears at the knees based on their physical movement throughout the day (Hill 2015). And of course, the copper rivets were a key feature in durability.

Specifically, their 501s were extremely popular and created directly for miners. As mentioned before, these jeans were named after the companies lot number. So, how does this transfer into the retail industry and the future of shopping?

Fig. 12 Levi Strauss Ad during Gold Rush

ory. A Developing

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Retail

As workwear was growing to be more and more popular, large corporations like Sears and JC Penny began starting their own lines.

Some also partnered up with Levi Strauss!

Over time, denim developed into something that was not just work wear, but also playwear. With the occurence of the Great Depression, denim and jeans became a symbol of gender and class blurring as many faced some of the most difficult times of their lives.

“The blue jean’s accruing capacity to resonate with an expanding variety of audiences and customers, just as mass-culture was searching for bridges between working and middle class and male and female consumers, made it both alluring and exemplary” (Miller 2008). The different styles of jeans (bootcut, flair, etc) and choices of decoration were all up to the wearer and denim was the ultimate blank canvas as it took strnog hold in retail stores and culture.

Fig. 14 Farah Fawcett skateboarding

Fig. 13 Gap Magazine Spread

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Denim Meets War & High Fashion Through World War 1 and 2, denim has played a huge role in regards to workwear.

After each war, American culture very clearly shifted and changed. In response to this, so did fashion and of course, denim. As Lee’s began to take over workwear, Levi’s worked to improve overall morale in work time. Companies shifted focus on different aspects of the population that were all in need. It wasn’t just designing for those fighting the war, but it was also for those who were supporting and working behind the scenes at home. Women were becoming more and more involved in the war effort as many men left to fight. As the workforce continued to grow throughout war, so did denim. Levi Strauss & Co. was the direct supplier to armed forces and at the time. And companies began to merge as Blue bell turned into Wrangler and Lee continued into workwear and cowboys. Companies began

Fig. 15 Levi Strauss WW2 Advert

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to gain a nationwide and global approach as cultural relations amongst countries increased (Salazar 2010).

This goes back to the very fiber of denim. Durability is a word that’s been continually highlighted, but the true fact is that denim fabric is like no other. It lasts, is comfortable, and has a resilience As war and workwear pair hand-inhand, it is only expected that such fabric played a role in the front lines.

During the 20th century, with the occurence of two world wars, denim became a method of work but changed in ways of protest and time.

It was becoming more and more personal as fashion choice and self expression gained hold in the 60s in response to a desire of peace after all the turmoil. Fashion continued to gain hold in denim, but unexpectdely high fashion began to pick this up too.

Fig. 16 Sailor Abord Navy Cruiser

Fig. 17 Men in denim at the Naval Air Station

Of all lenses that denim entails, of course high fashion is one that it encompasses. Denim turned from workwear to luxury item quite quickly in historical context as many high fashion companies looked to this material as their canvas. This new side to denim began to arise by the end of the 20th century. A re-definition was occuring once again.

Designer Claire McCardell, who graduated from Parsons in New York, created a pop-over dress design that was lightweight and defined. Post war, women were brought out from the home to the workforce and McCardell was their responder. ““I’ve always wondered why women’s clothing had to be delicate, why couldnt they be practical and sturdy as well as feminine?”

Companies like Yves Saint Laurent, Ralph Lauren, and Calvin Klein took the runways by storm, experimenting with all that was physically possible.

They cut, ripped, and shaped the fabric, pushing all boundaries for a new movement and audience.

It’s relevance spread onto all catwalks and all models (Marsh 100). Globally, paris fashion also brought denim into their couture as celebrities were spotted entering with full denim suits and simple denim corduroys.

Yves Satin Laurent specifically transformed denim into elegance, altering the fabric to look almost silk like as they continued to experiment and experiment. They were truly answering the questions of what people were wearing and what they wanted. A new gluff between users began to form as the desire for comfort and durability seemed to butt heads with that of expensive and tighter design. (Beltan-Rubio 2018). Did people want high status or did they want the historic uniformity and work? Being able to respond to these ever changing needs were solved through different partnerships and further techniques including ripping and tearing.

Fig. 18 Claire McCardell

The main consistency through all these roles that denim has fluidly broken in and out of is effective marketing and zero fear. The ability to pay close attention to the audience but also understand when to introduce a new risk to the game is what 11

Film & Music With the invention of moving pictures, the idea of celebrity, fame, and popular media erupted. When someone of high status in entertainment wore something or advertised a product, people paid attention. Movies like The Great Train Robbery and Pony Express were among some of the first films that featured the West and cowboys. Actors like Shorty Neal, John Wayne, and William S. Hart were seen on the big screen wearing denim to get into character. Specifically, Marlon Brando truly kick started the movement of denim into social status, shifting it from cowboy to teenage rebellion. Other actors like James Dean, pushed the envelope in the youth culture as well with movies like Rebel Without a Cause.

After actors were seen all greased up in multiple movies, denim took on a new persona (Marsh 62). This concept of greasers and motorcyclists took charge as kids across the nation began to embody Brando and his characters, inspired to rebel and rock the status quo. Schools began to refer to denim as the revel fabric, as Brando’s influence on youth culture exploded. People began to reject jeans and denim. There is also a reported occurrence where a woman wrote to Levis about her distaste for jeans in school, arguing how jeans had no place in New York or the East Coast, unlike the rural Western areas.

“Interesting, isn’t it, how this woman predicted the future trend toward casual clothing in the workplace?” - Lynn Downey (Levi Strauss & Co. Historian)

Fig. 19 Bing Corsby in Denim Fig. 20 The Outsiders Film Fig. 21 Shorty Neal in Pony Express Fig. 22 Jimi Hendrix Fig. 23 School boys

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The power of celebrities to start trends and controversy has not changed. Actors and artists shaped the way denim was perceived and how people wearing it could be. In regards to music, clothing companies began targeting teenage clients.

As the idea of the rebel spread, musicians had a similar impact that was a little more varied. Artists like Bing Crosby set the standard for country music. Eddie Cochran for rock and roll.

The concept of a cowboy swept through the west, pushing for that rock star idea. Bands like The Ramones, Rolling Stones, The Doors, and Sticky Fingers wore denim as a part of their laid back rocker image, showcasing a relaxed, careless look that translated into their music. In regards to Hip Hop, the “sag” became quite a controversial method of wearing denim. “Tommy Hilfiger became widely known during the early 1990s when hip-hop artists such as Raekwon of Wu-Tang Clan and Snoop Doggy Dogg were regularly photographed in his clothes. They often sported oversized “Tommy” or “H” logo T-shirts with Tommy jeans sagged low around their hips...“sagged” jeans became heavily associated with prison and gang culture, and remain controversial today” (Rubio 2018). With artists like Jimi Hendrix and the Beatles, psychedelic rock in the 70s meant patches, stitching, and bell bottoms. Denim was heavily decorated or distressed that only further pushed they psychedelic

Clearly, denim was beginning to stretch and carry different meanings depending on the genre of music it was playing a role in. The varied meanings and stories people found within their own denim was the unique factor. The fabrics ability to mold itself through the control of the wearer or the time period or art is monumental and life altering.

“It was perfect: classic. What’s better than jeans, a black leather jacket and a white T-shirt? It’s an easy and enduring look and costume that any kid in the world can create. It’s the way you face the street. It’s maie, it’s beautiful, it’s tough, and it doesn’t date. Probably 50 years from now people will still be wearing black leather jackets and Levi’s.” - Danny Fields (Manager of the Ramones)

Fig. 24 Chet Baker in Lucca Fig. 25 Marlon Brando on set of The Wild One Fig. 26 James Dean in Lees Fig. 27 Michael J. Fox in Back to the Future

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Denim Today & Conclusions So, have we answered the final question?

It is clear that denim has played a role in all periods of history and subjects whether it be music, art, or war. It's original function can be said to root in workplace and workwear, as it's durability and strength translated perfectly into a period of gold and mining. Unsurprisingly, denim continues to translate into the present and future, moving along and morphing with change just like it always has.

Overtime it seems as though denim has fallen into every category possible.

From characters in movies to high fashion, denim has observably broken away from its workwear function. As seen in each spread of this magazine, it has truly founds its way into becoming something personal.

Because history and the wearer can take away from denim what it wants, the fabric has become so transferable. It's ability to be a canvas and open way for many to express their identity or stories is unlike any other fabric.

With culture moving from Europe into the West, denim created this entire westerm identity that then spread globally and into so many niches.

In the end, denim is quite simple and consistent, and I believe that these two characteristics are what has allowed it to be so powerul and transformative. It's original comfort and long lasting characteristics carry through into modern denim today, as jeans are a staple, every day clothing item for all ages. But, no one is surprised when it is seen in other contexts as well, further emphasizing its easy malleability. This ability to find power in ubiquity, while not losing personality is truly remarkable and cross culturally impactful in almost all divets of life and history.

Fig. 28 Gee's Bend Quilt made of denim

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Bibliography Arthur Asa Berger (1978) Denimization, Journal of Physical Education and Recreation, 49:8, 55, DOI: 10.1080/00971170.1978.10617878 Beltran-Rubio, Laura. “Denim: Fashion’s Frontier.” Fashion Theory, 2018, pp. 1–10., doi:10.1080/1362704x.2018.1437999.

Co, Elliot. “Denim: A Mythic History.” Ellicott & Co., 13 Apr. 2017, www.ellicott.co/ blogs/posts/denim-a-mythic-history.

History Editors. “California Gold Rush.” History, A&E Television Networks, 6 Apr. 2010, www.history.com/topics/westward-expansion/gold-rush-of-1849.

Hill, June. “Denim—The Fabric of Our Lives.” Textile, vol. 7, no. 1, 1 May 2015, pp.

98–104., doi:10.2752/175183509x411780.

James B. Salazar (2010) Fashioning the historical body: the political economy of denim, Social Semiotics, 20:3, 293-308, DOI: 10.1080/10350331003722851 Marsh, Graham, and Paul Trynka. Denim from Cowboys to Catwalks ; a History of the World's Most Legendary Fabric. Aurum, 2006.

Sophie Mayer (2018) Denim, Wasafiri, 33:1, 22-25, DOI: 10.1080/02690055.2018.1395213 Sophie Woodward & Daniel Miller (2011) Unraveling Denim: Introduction, TEXTILE, 9:1, 6-10, DOI: 10.2752/175183511X12949158771310 McClendon, Emma. Denim: Fashion’s Frontier. The Fashion Institute of Technology, 2016 Miller, Daniel, and Sophie Woodward. “Manifesto for a Study of Denim*.” Social Anthropology, vol. 15, no. 3, 28 June 2008, pp. 335–351., doi:10.1111/j.0964-0282.2007.00024.x.

Muthu, Subramanian Senthilkannan. Sustainability in Denim. Elsevier Science & Technology, 2017.

No Author. “Denim History - Origin of Denim.” History of Denim - Origin of Denim and Blue Jeans, 2019, www.historyofjeans.com/jeans-history/history-of-denim/.

Paul, R. “Denim and Jeans: An Overview.” Denim and Jeans: An Overview - ScienceDirect, Woodhead Publishing, 1 May 2015, reader.elsevier.com/reader/sd/pii/ B9780857098436000019?token=1F322660CA7681B5AE958B797EE4629081 Paul, Roshan. Denim: Manufacture, Finishing and Applications. Woodhead Publishing, 2015.

Townsend, Katherine. “The Denim Garment as Canvas: Exploring the Notion of Wear as a Fashion and Textile Narrative.” Textile, vol. 9, no. 1, 1 May 2015, pp. 90–107., doi:10.27 52/175183511x12949158771554.

Miller, Daniel, and Sophie Woodward. Global Denim. Berg, 2011.

Fig. 1. LIFE. College students in denim. 1950. Web. Fig. 2. Levi Strauss & CO. Tagged Vintage Denim. 1920. Web. Fig. 3. GUILD. Illustration of Sailors in Denim. 1820. Web. Fig. 4. GUILD. Illustration of Nimes. 17th century. Web. Fig. 5. Wikipedia. Jacob W. Davis: Inventor of Jeans. 1905.

Web. Fig. 6. Levis Strauss & CO. Copper Rivet. 1873. Web. Fig. 7. Wikipedia. Levi Strauss.

1853. Web. Fig. 8. Primrosecafe (seller). Brass Rivet Belt Buckle. Web. Fig. 9. Jarek Jahel. Stitch. 2016.

Web. Fig. 10. Levi Strauss & CO.Red Tag. 1936. Web. Fig. 11. John Long. Gold Miners.

1848. Web. Fig. 12. Freshness. Levi Strauss Ad. 1905. Web. Fig. 13. GAP. Denim Magazine Spread. 1973. Web. Fig. 14. ABC. Farah Fawcett in Denim. 1976. Web. Fig. 15. Levi Strauss & CO. Food Fights for Freedom. 1941. Web. Fig. 16. LIFE. Sailor abord Navy Cruiser. 1941. Web. Fig. 17. US Navy. Denim and Naval Air Station. 1942. Web. Fig. 18. Maryland Historical Society. Claire McCardell modeling her design. 1957. Web. Fig. 19. Levi Strauss and CO. Bing Crosby Denim Suit. 1930.

Web. Fig. 20. Warner Bros. Pictures.

The Ousiders. 1983. Web. Fig. 21. Paramount Pictures.

Shorty Neal in the Pony Express.

1860. Web. Fig. 22. Allan Koss. Jimi Hendrix at Woodstock. 1969. Web. Fig 23. LIFE. School Kids in Denim. 1950. Web. Fig. 24. N/A. Chet Baker in Lucca, Italy. 1961. Web. Fig. 25. Columbia Pictures Marlon Brando on the set of Wild One. 1953. Web. Fig. 26. Warner Bros. Pictures.

James Dean in Rebel Without a Cause. 1955. Web. Fig. 27. Michael J. Fox in Back to the Future. 1985. Web. Fig. 28. Museum of Fine Art Houston. Gee’s Bend Denim Quilt. 1950. Web.

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Power in Ubiquity

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