ETCH

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ETCH

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EDITOR LETTER Welcome to the first edition of Etch magazine. Inspired by London’s ‘New Human’ subculture, we really wanted to capture and explore the beauty behind sculpting, extending, and shaping forms - the body, fashion, materials and architecture. We liked the ‘New Human’s’ idea of using shape and modification to create something new, something visually exciting and interesting. This magazine caters to those with an interest in the ‘New Human’ culture and ideals, but is utlimatley for anyone with a passion and eye for beautiful forms in everyday life. We have featured some of the top people that work within these ethics, Metal couturiere Manuel Albarran, make-up artist Alex Box, and sculpural artist Rein Vollenga, as well as featuring some must see places around London, and overseas. Enjoy!

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CONTENTS P4 P6 P8 P10 P12 P14 P24 P26 P28 P32 P34

Intro to New Humans Designer profiles Manuel Albarran: Metal Couture Sarah Angold: Interview Rein Vollenga: Interview Contour Bill Shabba Ranks: A graduate perspective Alex Box Art and Culture Music and Lifestyle London Fashion Week 3


INTRO TO

NEW HUMANS The subculture ‘New Human’ is something that has emerged and evolved from earlier subcultures such as Cybergoths, Modern Primitivism and Punk. They use body-modifications and extreme styling to create a new form or character. Influenced by worlds of gaming, virtual reality, music, previous subcultures and fetish/ bondage - they surround themselves with things that allow them to really express this lifestyle and look. Although New Humans seem to have emerged from something old, with their piercings, tattoos, corseted and

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sculpted form, and bold hair and makeup, there is something quite futuristic about them. It is hard to establish exactly what New Humans believe, or exactly why they create the image they do – is it a prediction of future generations, a fascination with the supernatural, virtual and futuristic, or just a way of pushing boundaries and rebelling against social norms? It is most likely a combination of all those things. ‘New Humans’ having slowly evolved from roots of cyber Goths and modern primitives – have moved from neon

rave gear, detachable accessories and hair, and subtle piercings, to more extreme and permanent ways of body modification. They create their look by customizing and layering various garments in metal and neutral tones with accents of bright or neon color. Corsetry, piercings and dramatic hairstyles are among the main contributions to their New Human form. Camden town, London, is a day and night hang out, and a point of origin for this subculture, although it is subculture that has members in other countires.


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SPUNKY GORE: NEW HUMAN MODEL


designer

profiles

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GARETH PUGH A British Designer who has worked with Rick Owen. Shapes, proportion and process, that inspire his famous, inflated balloon garments. People would describe Pugh’s design as sexy side of Goths. Pugh simply plays with the structure of shapes. His design of

work has a link to the low fashion designer as they both are got their inspirations from street style and etc. I feel that designer like Gareth Pugh and Thierry Muglar are both very talented with the work they produced, and they have inspired a lot of low designer’s work.

THIERRY MUGLER t a high-end fashion designer that has an eye for incredible, unusual designs. His work is influenced greatly by architecture, human form and rare materxials. His

extraordinary skills create the wow factor on the runway and have similar connections to how people react to the new human subculture.

UP AND COMING.... Yong Kyun Shin and Kwan Tae Kim are both recent graduates from Central St.Martins. Their work is bold and shapely, and in the graduate show they used armored plates,

and structured, molded pieces to create looks that alter the models form and create a futuristic image, also using a combination of metallic, earthy and neutral tones.


METAL COUTURE

ALBARRAN Manuel

Manuel Albarran is an accessories designer from Spain who’scouture design work is based on using metal, creating some of the most remarkable body accessories. After finishing his studies in fashion, he started to build a self-taught career researching and working in different art fields. His work includes collaborations with diverse artists, exhibitions and projects in cities around the world, publicity, periodic works in cinema, video art, video clips and important publicity campaigns, aside a notorious specialization in corset and metal art. His works are both interesting to look at and have a new kind of way of looking at humans. Traversing

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between art and fashion means Albarran’s work sits just as well in fashion editorials as it does in installations or potentially films. ETCH: Who do you have in mind when you design? Manuel Albarran: Depends some time blank mind and just follow my instinct another I just follow some ideas and developed them. ETCH: What inspires you at the moment? Manuel Albarran: All historic and futuristic subjects ETCH: Who would you like to collaborate with? Manuel Albarran: Guillermo Del Toro and Ridley Scott

ETCH: How would you describe your own style? Manuel Albarran: When you see one of my pieces you will know it is mine but if I have to say some thing will be Heavy Couture. ETCH: If you weren’t designing, what would you be doing? Manuel Albarran: Martial arts. ETCH: What are your plans for the future? Manuel Albarran: I’ll like to concentrate more in my one sort art films and art exhibitions, fashion for me is a platform to reach my aim. www.manuelalbarran.com


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JEWELLERY DESIGNER

ANGOLD Sarah

How did you get into designing? I’ve always loved creative subjects, so studying design was a natural progression for me. I did an undergraduate degree at Loughborough and then a masters in multi media textiles at the royal college of art How do you start the designing process? I sit down with a carpet picnic of photos and materials and random things I’ve collected, and start building little ‘models’ with them. Then I draw them and manipulate them digitally into usable designs. Do you consider yourself an artist? I think the terms ‘artist’

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and ‘designer’ are often separated unnecessarily. I am an artist and a designer.

i design what i think is beautiful and worry about who will buy it later

What is your main source of inspiration? architecture, geometric shapes, industrial equipment, sci fi, materials of all kinds and in particular unusual material combinations.

What has been your biggest career highlight so far?

Are you influenced by the idea of ‘New Human’ in any way? we all are What is your favorite material to work with? i have worked most often with acrylic, but I like all kinds of different textures Do you design with a particular type of person in mind?

Working with hussein chalayan Where do you see your self in 5 years time? I would like the studio to be recognised by people inside and outside the industry as a driving force for innovation and creative process. What advice do you have for aspiring designers? work bloody hard. and network EVERYWHERE start now - you never know who will be useful to you in the future.


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SCULTURE

VOLLENGA Rein

ETCH: Please talk to us a bit about your sculptures, the process the creation in general. Rein Vollenga: The sculptures I create are made of assembled objects, covered in an epoxy layer and are precisely melded, sculpted, sanded and spray- painted all by hand. The pieces may look like they’re multiples, but they are one-off pieces, single, traditionally handcrafted objects. ETCH: I wonder how long it takes you to finalize a sculpture and how many people help you? Rein Vollenga: How long? Mmmm.. Well, it depends on the project. But I mainly work alone. ETCH: What are the possible difficulties that might occur while creating a piece? Rein Vollenga: Too many (laughs) ETCH: How do you see fashion as a parallel to the art you are creating?

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Rein Vollenga: In art school I’d experiment with video and created complete settings, outfits and make-up as well as direction as if all of that couldn’t be crazy enough! In that period I would work with several performers and loved that interaction since, somehow, they brought my work to life. My studio is based in Berlin in the multicultural area of Kreuzberg, where a lot of different nationalities live, people of opposite backgrounds, international artists and musicians, a place where also the straight and gay culture merge. This led to an open and vibrant atmosphere that resulted to great collaborations or opportunities. ETCH: The world of fashion was stunned with the video release for Mugler’s FW 11/12 collection. The sculpture looked like an Alien creature, a truly innovative idea. What did Formichetti want

to achieve though your collaboration you think? Rein Vollenga: For Mugler, Formichetti approached me to create some objects for the FW 11/12 Women’s collection. Nicola Formichetti is a master in getting all kinds of creative people collaborating. He knows how to use aspects from sub-cultures or the underground scene and translate them into high-end fashion. That’s a true talent, it shows real skills. He also knows how to push the boundaries. He kind of forced me to create wearable sculptures for the collection (laughs!) ETCH: How do you work with others? Rein Vollenga: When I work with a designer or a creative director, musician or stylist, we always discuss our ideas, the inspiration, the references or concepts. From there I need some time to create alone, using my hands in my studio. My creation processes is very physical I may say, though I don’t


start my ideas with a drawing like a fashion designer does. I need to feel everything with my hands, literally. ETCH: I see… I would ask you to share your short coming future plans if possible. What to expect from you after The Hague? Rein Vollenga: Well…I’m

in collaboration again with Jonny Woo who is hosting the LOVEBOX Festival in London in May. Also I’m creating some wearable sculptures for his performances. For the same festival Feral aka Mc Kinki will be also be present wearing a showpiece I am working on for her.

During the Summer I’ll be exhibiting in Berlin but for more info visit my blog later… In November 2011 I’ve planned a solo exhibition at Gallery Suvi Lehtinen in Berlin where I’ll be showing some large-scale sculptures that I have made…

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I need to feel everything with my hands, literally


CONTOUR

PHOTOGRAPHY BY ALEX SAWYER STYLING BY AMY YUEN AND GERDA VAISNYTE 14


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SHEER DRESS: ASOS SILVER BANGLES: ZARA


TOP: TOPSHOP BANGLES: AS BEFORE

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DRESS: ZARA BODY CHAIN: STYLISTS OWN

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GREY SKIRT: URBAN OUTFITTERS


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BIKINI TOP AND BOTTOMS: TOPSHOP METAL NAIL EXTENTIONS: ASOS


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GRADUATE

Bill

SHABBA RANKS How did you get into designing? i got in to designing slash art, to be honest i have always been intrested in art since i was very small 4 or 5, i started of with drawing, but i really got into sclupture around 15 at school, then went to college around 17, one of my teachers showed me some of his work and i felt i could really relate to his ideas, so he took me under his wing and taught me everything i know about sculpture. How do you start the designing process? i wouldnt say i start my design process, i very rarely design on paper, most of my ideas come from my head, i get random thoughts and have surreal dreams most

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nights, this were my designs come from, so you could say they are natural, i dont look for them, they come to me. Do you consider yourself an artist? yes i do condsider my self an artist, i was born one, so there for i will always be one. for me an artist is someone who expresses thoughts and feeling through somthing they have created from a meduim, and that is best way i express my self. this why i am an artsit. i also see my art as a form of self counseling. What is your main source of inspiration? my main source of inspirtaion is me, by this i mean my thoughs, dreams, feelings and the way i see

things in the world. but if you were to say style wise, i like surrealizm, on of my favourite artist is salvador dali and i also love francis bacon, these are types of artist that inspire me the most. even though dali was more of a painter and bacon was a painter, i find there way of looking at things is how i like and see my sculpture. Are you influenced by the idea of ‘New Human’ in any way? i did noticed you had the word super natual in there, i am intrested in that area and the unknown but in some ways that relates back to things that are surreal, they have the same main function. and that is they are hard to understand and are not considerd normal. so


yes i would say the super natural is inspiring for me. What is your favorite material to work with? my favourite meduim is clay a 100 percent, the detail you can achive with clay and the accuracy is like no other meduim i have ever used or have seen with other artist. Do you design with a particular type of person in mind? do i design with a type of person in mind, i usally have a style in my mind already, and if i was creating a sclupture of a person, i usally have an image in my head of some one who is sad, tired, you could say coming to the end of there life, depression, i also like broken noise’s in my work, i find

there is a type of romance with this image of a person, it adds mystery and thought. to be honest i dont create happy art, i create sad art. i find sad art a lot more intresting and honest. you can achive more detai also with the face, wrinkles and so on of some one in this state. a broken nosie’s is always more intresting to, i like the angles and curves that are maded. What has been your biggest career highlight so far? i dont have a carrer yet, but as an artist i would say discovering my love for sclupture and the style of sclupture i like, it has set me on a path and i know were i want to go with it. so that is.

Where do you see your self in 5 years time? in five years well i would have not long finshed uni, but i would like to see myself with serval colections of scluptures, like a serisous of different pieces of work. What advice do you have for aspiring designers? advice thats a hard one, but what i found helped with my work, was at first, try not to think about what you want a piece to mean or look like. pratice on your making skills and see what works best for you, and as you get better with the technical side of making, ideas of what you want to create come to you.

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MAKE-UP

BOX Alex

As the beauty deluge continues to rain on us with images of doeeyed bouncy-haired girls-next-door, one person is challenging our perceptions of what is beautiful. Armed with a few brushes and a clever way with eyeliner, Alex Box is changing the parameters of image making today. With her skunk-streaked hair and taste for outlandish fashion, London-based makeup artist Alex has been called the Daphne Guinness of the beauty industry. Three years ago she was named creative director of Illamasqua, a cosmetics line full of shades that are as bold and expressive as she is. For her degree show at the Chelsea College of Art, Alex Box exhibited installation art explor-

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ing the relationship between the body and the environment. Later, her make-up went on to explore this relationship between art, science, nature and the magical. She has since become one of the most influential make-up artists of our time. She creates looks for designers such as Karl Lagerfeld, Stella McCartney, McQ, Peter Jensen and Gareth Pugh. She was also the lead artist at 2007’s Fashion Rocks event. Her work has featured in Vogue in Italy, France, Japan, China and Britain and is also regularly seen in titles including Numero, W, Another Magazine, Dazed & Confused, 10 and i-D. A fine artist and visionary before a

makeup artist, Box uses the visage as a canvas to which she applies layers of non-conforming techniques which result in mind blowing avantgarde face paintings, and is now one of a few make-up artists who command a top billing at Fashion Week. Her subsequent move into the fashion world was initially met with scepticism. “I remember turning up to a shoot with just a roll of Sellotape, Perspex eye pieces and no make-up at all. I was told by everybody, ‘You don’t belong here.’ That made me more defiant. I credit my upbringing – parents who believe in you or a belief in yourself.” That belief served her well.


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ART & CULTURE

RICHARD WILSON 20:50 INSTALLATION THE SAATCHI GALLERY KINGS ROAD, LONDON SW3

CULTURE Art &

Created by sculptor Richard Wilson - In the basement of the Saatchi Gallery, Wilson has fashioned a waist-high reservoir out of sheet metal that precisely follows the contours of the room. The tank is filled to the brim with thick sump oil - The liquid shimmers and glistens, gracefully reflecting the clean, white architecture of the room in which it rests, and subtly distorting our impressions of the space.

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SCULPT YOUR HOME WITH THESE WORKS OF ART...

CLAIRE JACKSON - SWIRL CURIO - £50

CLAIRE JACKSON - SPIRAL CURIO - £60

GONNY VAN HAUST - CLAUSTRO PHOBIA £60

JOHANNES NEILSON - FORM 1 - £1,700

SOPHIE ROBSON - NAILPHILIA £200

JOHANNES NEILSON - SILENT TRUTH - £420

WWW.DEGREEART.COM

...also at the Saatchi Gallery – Georg Herold - Untitled

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ART & CULTURE

The body adorned:

DRESSING LONDON The Body Adorned exhibition reveals how a diverse population clothe and adorn their bodies to find their place in the metropolis. Over time, saris, tattoo parlours, nail

bars, distended ears and scarification have become a visible, everyday part of the London cityscape. But how did cultural adornments become integrated into urban London life?

The exhibition considers how the movement of people, objects and ideas influenced London dress in the past and explores body adornment in today’s world city of London.

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Horniman Museum & Gardens, 100 London Rd, Forest Hill,

from 24 March 2012 until 06 January 2013


Halcyon Gallery opened the doors to its magnificent new gallery at 144-146 New Bond Street on 5 December 2011, with a major exhibition by internationally celebrated artist Dale Chihuly. Chihuly is widely regarded as the most exciting and spectacular artist working in contemporary glass, credited with elevating the medium from the realm of craft to groundbreaking fine art. A prodigiously prolific artist, whose work balances content with thorough investigations in to the properties of glass, Chihuly began working with the material at a time when reverence for glass-making and technique was paramount.

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MUSIC & LIFESTYLE

LIFESTYLE Music &

sketch is a complex and unique site. Conceived by French master chef Pierre Gagnaire and restaurateur Mazouz, it has attracted unprecedented media reaction for its myriad food, drink and entertainment styles since it opened in December 2002. Gagnaire’s culinary genius has inspired the menus throughout sketch. His eponymous Michelin three-starred Paris restaurant has a distinctive menu style, which Gagnaire had adapted for sketch. Executed by his acolytes, the food is imaginative, bold, groundbreaking and delicious. Theses two visionaries have come together to create sketch... 9 Conduit Street Mayfair, London W1S 2XG


p The Blow Up Hall 5050 is another European hotel which sets a futuristic tone. Located in Poznan, Poland, the hotel does not only boast beautifully designed rooms but also makes use of 21st-century technology. Guests are handed an iPhone when they check in to open their rooms’ doors.

Hotel Silken Puerta America Madrid — Spain u A futuristic hotel in the Spanish capital which has been designed by world-renowned architects and artists. Don’t worry, this is one of those amazing hotels which offers 5-star comfort and style for no extra rates. At the Silken Puerta America, no room is the same! Visit the hotel’s website: www.hoteles-silken.com/hotel-puerta-america-madrid/en.

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THE CONGO ROOM - LOS ANGELES

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SOUND CLUB - PHUKET, THAILAND


London

FASHION WEEK

FYODOR GOLAN Dark and romantic spirit, the dropped-waist dresses and the silhouettes that create slightly different body form than usual. Designer used green glitter to cover the models body, creating a new human form. We also have to mention that almost every girl on the catwalk had an ornate nose ring. Colors were a bright neon-reactive theme, set against a basic, black gothic outfit and using a lot of leather.

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YONG KYUN SHIN The Korean designer creates unusual shapes and sculptural forms overlapping one another and giving out impressions of movement and transitions. Her dress transformer looks like ambiguous spatial illusion. With the new shape of dress designer want to create New Human style. The complex geometries and 3D elements in Yong Kyun Shin's designs often look like intricate architectural structure. Her dresses has some elements with blue neon colour.

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MANUEL ALBARRAN - METAL COUTURE

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