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PUBLISHED BY CHAOS Magazine, LLC PRESS press@chaos-mag.com GENERAL QUERIES hello@chaos-mag.com COVER
photographer Eric White stylist Nina Tiari hair Clay Nielsen model Julia Oleynik @ adam
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AUGUST 2014
VOL.23
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THE CHAOS TEAM REESE HERRICK FOUNDER + EDITOR /
reese@chaos-mag.com
FALLON KERR ASSISTANT TO EDITOR / fallon@chaos-mag.com MAXIMILLIAN ODEN PHOTO EDITOR / photos@chaos-mag.com CHARLIE HIMMELSTEIN STAFF PHOTOGRAPHER / charlie@chaos-mag.com KATIE EDER CHIEF COPY EDITOR ANNA BELOUSOVA HEAD DESIGNER BRANDON BOSTIC DESIGNER
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COPYRIGHT & DISCLAIMER: Reproduction in whole or in part without written permission by CHAOS is strictly prohibited. All information and credits are accurate at the time of publication, but are subject to change. HTTP://chaos-mag.com © 2008/2013 CHAOS MAGAZINE
AMANDA GRAVELY DESIGNER
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Summer is all about the heat! It’s about minimal clothing and romance, too. It’s about days spent at the beach, pool, river, or lake and this issue brings you just what you need to end summer in style. The Fever Issue, our 23rd installment, captures the summer vibe in the best of ways. This issue showcases brilliant talent from models to photographers, stylist to makeup and hair stylists through stunning and captivating fashion editorials that will leave you wanting summer to last forever. You may be asking yourself why we release our summer issue so late, well the reason we release our summer issue at the end of summer is because it is actually just that, our “End of Summer” issue. In other news, this is the first issue in about 10 issues that we are giving away completely free! That is right! You will be able to view this entire issue for nothing! This is just our way of saying thank you to everyone who has supported CHAOS Magazine over these past six years. You will still be able to purchase the issue in print if you wish, but we will no longer be selling digital issues. This is actually good news because that means if you’re featured in CHAOS Magazine your work will be seen by more people now, not just the people who buy the issues. Huge plus for advertisers as well as photographers and their teams as they will be getting a massive boost in exposure being featured in CHAOS Magazine! Hooray! Get the full scoop on our website!
We hope your summer was just as epic as ours! Enjoy!
Reese Herrick Editor-in-Chief
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illustration ANNA BELOUSOVA
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PREVIOUS top MONKI bathing suit WOLFORD THIS PAGE bathing suit O’NEIL hat BOESSERT/SCHORN
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top + pants + earrings MONKI
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bathing suit O’NEIL shoes NIKE
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t-shirt ELEVINPARIS earrings MELODY EHSANI
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LEFT / RIGHT top MONKI shorts AMERICAN APPAREL bag FOREVER 21 bracelet MANGO hat stylist’S OWN shoes MINI MARKET socks MISSONI
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dress ISABELL DE HILLERIN ring VINTAGE
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top JULIAANDBEN pants REALITY STUDIO turban LORAND LAJOS hat GIUSEPPE TELLA
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PREVIOUS / THIS PAGE shorts Barbara Í Gongini top Avant Toi
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top Isabel Benenato skirt Avant Toi earrings SIMONN
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top Daniella Kallmeyer skirt Isabel Benenato shoes Converse
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jacket Ă˜DD. skirt Dominic Louis earrings SIMONN
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top Isabel Benenato skirt Ă˜DD
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LEFT / RIGHT top Dominic Louis shorts ØDD. earrings SIMONN
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LEFT / RIGHT both dresses ØDD.
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dress AREA di Barbara Bologna t-shirt Ă˜DD. earrings + pendant SIMONN shoes Cinzia Araia
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assistant photographer Nik Le Sante @ contra studios make-up made using Chanel Beauty + Ardell Lashes special thanks to Contra Studios + House of European Hair
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T
he impeccable leather designs behind Yvonne Reichmuth’s luxury accessory label, YVY, carry a familiar connotation. Like some of the most celebrated designer brands around the world, YVY’s striking leather accessories are perfectly calculated and supremely clean — even flawless. With their sleek leather finishes, powerfully placed hardware appendages, and architectural symmetry, Reichmuth’s pieces are the paragon of luxury. As Reichmuth explains the rigorous nature of leather making, the chasm between her arduous design process and her meticulously finished products come into plain view. While discussing her varied inspirations and dedication to one-ofa-kind craftsmanship, Reichmuth describes each aspect of her leather-making design process — from researching, to crafting, to finally placing her products into the hands of her ideal clients. “I design because I want to create (and) express myself in a creative way. If I turned this into a business where I’m only selling the work of others, then I would stop being an artisan,” Reichmuth explains. “I love to get my hands dirty through leather-crafting. It gives a soul to your pieces. It puts the spirit into the creations.”
Unlike her pristine leather creations, the story behind Reichmuth’s artistic discovery as an accessories designer is anything but clean-cut. Her journey from a novice leather crafter — whose first exposure to the technique came from how-to videos and tutorials — to a supremely talented and sought-after leather artisan is marked by unwavering dedication, passion, and ingenuity. But it wasn’t easy for Reichmuth to cultivate her current understanding of the unique craft. Before diving head first into the world of leather crafting, Reichmuth created three women’s wear collections in fashion design school with smaller, more subliminal leather pieces, though she was capable of crafting far more than mere leather skirts and pants. “I’ve always enjoyed working with leather, so I started watching leather tutorials for hours to try to find people who could teach me traditional leather crafting,” Reichmuth says. “When I found one and saw his studio filled with tools and leather, my heart told me that this is what I need to do. I wanted to take that level of expertise and transform it into contemporary, fashionable pieces of art.” And so, Reichmuth embarked on a design journey that ended in Florence, Italy, a city blooming with
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relics of the ancient craft and the artisans who work tirelessly to keep it alive. “The leather-crafting community has always been very willing to share their knowledge,” Reichmuth reflects. “I got my first taste of it from a lovely Swiss autodidact who has been crafting for decades. When I stumbled upon an Italian leather school with a long history of leather crafting, I knew I had to move to Florence.” While Reichmuth relocated from her homeland to an unfamiliar yet captivating city, she knew leather crafting would assert itself as a powerful fixture within her life. But her move across the continent from her native Switzerland to the bustling landscape of Florence also marked a stage of essential artisanal growth, as she added new technical skills to her leather-crafting repertoire, including clothing, bags, and saddlery.
accessory items inspired by the powerful spirit of medieval armor mixed with a “kinky fetish twist.” But don’t expect to find copious amounts of chainmail or metal within the line, because Reichmuth kept these gritty influences subtle, creating a collection that is undeniably feminine and elegant, yet strong and assertive, thanks to some carefully placed hardware embellishments. “The SKIN collection helped me not worry about whether or not the mass market would wear my designs,” Reichmuth says. “Even though I’m not into the fetish scene, I appreciate how people live out their fantasies by wearing whatever they feel comfortable in.” T he lineup for the SKIN collection is certainly diverse. By including a studded bib necklace, cuff bracelets with a woven effect, and full-blown ribbed leather brassieres, Reichmuth managed to create an array of pieces that satisfy even the wildest of accessory desires.
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As Reichmuth’s skillset broadened, she had to decide on a central focal point for her design aesthetic. After an intense apprenticeship, weeks of practice, and hours of contemplating her point of view as a designer, the foundation of YVY as an accessory brand was born. Reichmuth launched her brand with the SKIN collection, a beautiful assortment of leather
POWERFUL SPIRIT OF MEDIEVAL ARMOR MIXED WITH A KINKY FETISH TWIST.
“The pieces from the SKIN collection ended up being armor for me to fight my own selfdoubts,” Reichmuth explains. “Wearing these pieces makes you feel powerful and confident.” However, Reichmuth’s design range extends even further. In fact, the SKIN collection is segmented into dual parts: the Black Edition
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and the Nude Edition. The former part features quintessential black leather pieces, while the latter offers a more demure counterpart to the collection as a whole. “I wear black until there’s something darker. I’m always the one asking in a store, ‘Do you have this in black?’” Reichmuth jokes. “So, using black leather was an obvious choice. But, even though I have an intrinsic attraction to anything dark and heavy, I enjoy a softer, more sensual side, too, (which) became the Nude Edition.” The feedback regarding this artistic split has been overwhelmingly positive. By offering two alternative editions, Reichmuth not only broadened her pool of potential customers, but also managed to make a poignant remark on the nature of how we dress.
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“People react very well to the prospect of having two choices,” she remarks. “I think this is mainly because everyone has these two sides to them. You just choose which one you want to showcase in that moment, and clothing plays a big part in that.” Before long, Reichmuth used the momentum she gained from the SKIN collection to create her follow-up project, SPIRIT. This time, instead of drawing upon themes of medieval armor and fetish culture, she went straight to the books — particularly, a science book complete with detailed illustrations of the Earth’s most ancient living organisms. “I loved the illustrations of trilobites in Ernst Haeckel’s book, Art Forms of Nature,” Reichmuth says. “After seeing them, I wanted to mimic the look of the trilobites’ exoskeleton.”
Trilobites, a term that refers to the fossil group of extinct marine arthropods, represented uncharted territory where Reichmuth could tread in her sophomore collection, though she had to expand beyond the illustrations in order to create something truly unique that would connote a timeless, contemporary feel. In that sense, Reichmuth’s apprenticeship in Florence proved to be incredibly useful. “While I was refining my leather skills in Florence, I lived in the quarter of Santo Spirito, and I started wondering what the ‘spirit’ was all about,” Reichmuth reflects. “I realized that its meaning could never fully be grasped, for it has endless interpretations, dimensions, and origins. But, ultimately, ‘spiritus’ equals breath, and breath gives life to everything. I realized that spirit is eternal transformation.” With two inspirations in her design arsenal, Reichmuth began experimenting with different surface treatments — including cutting, weaving, and lacing — in the hopes of emulating the symmetrical beauty of the trilobites’ skeletal form. It was during this process that she made a somewhat existential discovery. “In a subconscious way, I realized that many of my pieces have something animalistic about them — not just on their surface material, but in their shape, as well,” Reichmuth relates.
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“You can oftentimes find an analogy between my pieces and different creatures.” But the similarity between the trilobites and Reichmuth’s design aesthetic doesn’t end there. “By digging deeper into leather-crafting, I realized that, in many places, this type of craftsmanship is on the verge of extinction,” she says. “These few remaining people are very talented in a technical way, but the designs are all very nostalgic. Very few create something that has not been done before. And yet, I feel the urge to innovate very strongly. I love to experiment and find shapes and techniques that make you look twice.” Reichmuth’s newest collection certainly accomplishes this feat, as the SPIRIT line evokes a deeper understanding of design intricacy through ornately strapped bodices, corsets, brassieres, and other luxury accessory items. Despite steering away from hardware embellishments, Reichmuth succeeded in emulating the powerful, hardhitting crux of her SKIN collection without neglecting her own artistic growth as a designer and leather crafter. “The pieces of the SPIRIT collection are just as flattering as the SKIN pieces, but by reducing the hardware to a minimum, the effect is much softer,” Reichmuth explains. “Of course, I also learned a lot and improved between the two collections, so I wanted to take SPIRIT to an entirely new level. SPIRIT is more complex, sophisticated, and artful, but I still like
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the clean straightforwardness of the SKIN collection.” One of the most remarkable aspects of Reichmuth’s newest collection is its uncanny ability to complement the form of the human body. Each and every piece was designed to mirror some of the most recognizable human silhouettes. For example, the Carapace Harness mimics the slight arc of a spine, the Woven Basque Belt complements the alluring curves of a woman’s hips, and the Woven Neckholder Harness helps create a beautiful waistline. When asked how the human body informs her design aesthetic, Reichmuth provides an unfiltered view into her leather-making process. “I begin each and every piece by working on a mannequin or my own body, instead of sketching it out, (because) constructing my pieces in this three-dimensional way enables me to find unexpected shapes and the perfect proportions,” she notes. “This process allows my accessories to carry the power to accentuate single parts of the body, such as the spine, the bust, or the waist, and I found that, quite often, customers are surprised to see their bodies in such a flattering way.” And as it turns out, one of the best ways to cultivate a loyal customer base is to create pieces that not only flatter the people who wear them, but also empower them. Although Reichmuth’s list of her most popular products varies, a few things have remained constant.
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The Wasp Waist Belt and the Rivet bracelets are the bestsellers in the SKIN collection, but the best-selling items in the SPIRIT collection remain to be seen. “I just launched the SPIRIT collection and have received great feedback in regards to all of the pieces,” Reichmuth says. “The Handharnesses have had a good start, but, of course, the Carapace Harness is the key piece and a favorite of the press.” However, Reichmuth’s press coverage doesn’t start and end with the Carapace Harness, as a quick browse through some of YVY’s most recent media features proves that any of her pieces should be prepared to make a glossy appearance. From her Aspex Necklace in W Magazine, to her Laced Bra in Vogue Italia, to her Shoulder Piece in InStyle, Reichmuth’s accessories have made quite the editorial splash, which comes as a welcome surprise to the humble designer. “I’m very self-critical and, let’s be honest, there’s no shortage of designers,” she says. “Since I don’t book advertising space and I don’t even have a PR person, it’s even less likely that YVY will get attention. Nevertheless, I’ve been very lucky to have editors, buyers, and celebrity stylists show interest in my designs. This is very motivating for me, because it shows me that I’m on the right path, even though I’m not taking the one of least resistance.” This path of least resistance doesn’t exclusively apply to YVY’s PR initiatives, because it also relates to the laborious leather-crafting techniques Reichmuth refuses to leave behind. By relying exclusively on Italian vegetable-
tanned leather, she has become somewhat of an advocate for sustainable material and craftsmanship over mass-produced products. “My technique is a time-consuming, century-old tanning process. It’s the most environmentally friendly technique, and it protects the people working in tanneries,” Reichmuth explains. “It obviously benefits the customer, as well, because the leather is chemical-free. The vegetable tanning also gives the leather a unique characteristic because it retains the natural look.” As an added bonus, each time Reichmuth uses vegetable-tanned leather, she is reminded why she chose to pursue accessories design in the first place. “Working with thicker, firmer vegetable-tanned leather allows me to create pieces that are somewhere in-between accessories and clothing, and I love to see how my customers style my accessories to fit their own personal style,” she says. “I’m happy I made the decision to work as an accessories designer. I can reach more people this way.” Due to YVY’s broad and ever-expanding customer base, Reichmuth has also learned she cannot attempt to pinpoint the kind of person whowould gravitate towards her designs. “I don’t limit my clients by age, profession, or other superficial qualities; the variety of my clients goes from the extroverted pop star to the classic businesswoman, and this is exactly where I want to see my line,” she relates. “You don’t need to necessarily like the same things as I do; you can take one piece of YVY and style in in your very own way.”
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Despite the appeal of keeping things exactly as they are, Reichmuth knows YVY has reached a point of unavoidable transition. As her business continues to grow, the viability of doing things entirely on her own has dwindled, and she has realized that her team of close-knit, passionate individuals may be on the verge of some growing pains. “No matter how much I love doing everything by myself, I’m now at a point where I need the support of other people to handle the positive feedback that I’m getting,” Reichmuth relents. “I have my little team of wonderful people who love what they’re doing just as much as I do, and we’re taking one step at a time to grow in a healthy way.” Even though Reichmuth recognizes that with every success comes inevitable change, it doesn’t take much to remind her of how lucky and fortunate she is to have cultivated both a designer accessories label and an eager group of clients who wear it. “I get to spend my days doing what feels natural to me,” Reichmuth says. “By expressing myself in a creative way, using my mind and body, following nobody’s rules but mine, depending on myself, and choosing to work with people that share my vision, I could not think of anything more rewarding than that.”
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ALONG
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THE SUN photographer JENNIFER MASSAUX stylist BRIT CATO hair + make-up SOPHIE HAIG model SARAH STEPHENS @ women direct ny
PREVIOUS shorts NAKED PRINCESS necklaces JILL GOLDEN + GEMMA SIMONE THIS PAGE blouse LATISTE BY AMY bottoms LADY LUX earrings JILL GOLDEN
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assistant photographer ALVIO MANCUSO
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PREVIOUS / LEFT / RIGHT top BLACKLICKORISH BY ALYSSA NORMAN bikini MIKOH jewelry FOREVER 21
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ETELIN dress CARLOS PL L GA necklace NASTY
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LEFT / RIGHT bikini BLACKLICKORISH BY ALYSSA NORMAN
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LEFT / RIGHT jumpsuit BLACKLICKORISH BY ALYSSA NORMAN shoes MICHAEL ANTONIO necklace ALDO
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LEFT / RIGHT dress ROCKY GATHERCOLE bikini MIKOH
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LEFT / RIGHT top + skirt BLACKLICKORISH BY ALYSSA NORMAN jacket ZARA
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LEFT / RIGHT corset ROCKY GATHERCOLE skirt BLACKLICKORISH BY ALYSSA NORMAN shoes FOR THE STARS FASHION HOUSE necklace STEVE MADDEN
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body suit ROCKY GATHERCOLE shoes MCHAEL ANTONIO jewelry TOPSHOP
assistant photographer BEN KUI special thanks to DARWIN ABAD
photographer Zed Saeed make-up + hair Allison McGillicuddy model Kara Gibson @ otto
pants CELLO JEANS necklace PACNL: AVANT GARDE DE PARIS sunglasses ZEROUV
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pants H&M necklace SOL: AVANT GARDE DE PARIS
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pants NO BOUNDARIES top SOLANO necklace SOL: AVANT GARDE DE PARIS
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pants CITY STREETS top SOLANO bracelet RON: AVANT GARDE DE PARIS sunglasses SIDECAR
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pants VANILLA STAR bracelet RON: AVANT GARDE DE PARIS sunglasses MLC EYEWEAR
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pants LOVE FIRE sunglasses ZEROUV bracelet RON: AVANT GARDE DE PARIS necklace PAN: AVANT GARDE DE PARIS
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Gabriella
Bloomgarden name age
Gabriella Bloomgarden 19
nationality
Guatemalan / Eastern European / American
hometown
New Yawk
current location height most notable feature favorite food
current favorite song
New York City 5’8” My eyebrows I guess. Sushi and I love cereal with bananas. Currently listening to “Because I Got High” by Afroman
Model Talk
Where are you from, what agency are you with, how long have you been modeling. How did you get into it? I’m a born and bred New Yorker! I’ve been modeling for, I guess um, about 3 years? But more seriously for maybe 1 or 2 I think. I’m with Request Models NY. I actually used to do “kid” modeling when I was 12. I did stuff for Limited Too and H&M kids. I stopped for a little bit and then was later street scouted a few times and finally decided to give it another try when I was 16. What’s your favorite part about modeling? Definitely the people you meet and the weird experiences you encounter. It certainly keeps things interesting because you never really know what you are walking into when you show up at a shoot, which can be both a blessing and a curse! What is the most fun shoot you have ever been on and why? Hmm, well it wasn’t exactly a shoot but more of an event sort of thing that involved Miley Cyrus, Robin Thicke, and a lot of twerkers. I sadly was not twerking but I was involved in that VMA performance. That was probably one of the most memorable jobs I’ve had to date. Generally what are the best jobs to get? Money aside. Well, money always makes a job that much better but money aside; my favorite jobs tend to be the ones with a chill crew. The people on the shoot set the overall energy. Without a good energy it’s difficult to produce a good photo. When the crew is cool and the vibes feel right, it’s easy to forget that you’re working. I also tend to rate my jobs based on the food haha as crazy as that sounds. I have one client who orders sushi for lunch, which always makes me happy. Is modeling as glamorous as it is perceived to be? List some pros and cons. No, modeling is definitely not as glamorous as it appears to be. There are times where you will find yourself working in freezing conditions in nothing but a bikini. Hours can be very long and draining, not to mention quite demanding. When you are working as a model, you are always on. You can’t sit because your clothes might wrinkle. You can’t fix that bobby pin poking you in the head because you might ruin your hair. You are constantly being prodded and poked at. There is also a lot of loneliness that comes with the travel and changing last minute schedule. With this being said, there certainly are many pros
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to modeling as well! The experiences like the people you meet, the clothes you get to wear and kept, the connections you make, the fun parties you get to attend. It’s easy to get swindled into thinking that modeling is a glamorous job, however there certainly is quite a bit of work that goes in to it as well. What was the worst job you’ve been on and why? One of the worst jobs I’ve been on involved shooting in 32-degree weather in the Hamptons. The job went from 8 in the morning to 3 in the morning the following day. Furthermore, there was no heater on set and very little food. Jobs like that one make me wish there was a model union to protect models from harsh working conditions. What advice would you give an aspiring model? Coming from your experience as a successful one. I would tell an aspiring model that personality and professionalism goes far beyond looks. Clients are not just looking for pretty faces they are also looking for personality. Clients are going to want to work with models who are easy to work with. Therefore, it’s important to be friendly, impressionable, and most importantly, professional. At the end of the day modeling is a job so it is important to take it seriously and see it as such. When you go into castings what is your strategy? As cheesy as it sounds when I go into castings I try to just be myself! Like I said, clients are looking for personality, that’s what sticks. So, I guess my main tactic is to leave an impression! Describe your “type” of guy. Hmm. My type of guy has to be funny, kind, and openminded. I like a guy to be driven and self-motivated and it’s also very important that I feel like I can be myself. A major turn off for me are pretentious guys, or guys who feel they need to prove something. There are a lot of people out there who want to date models. Do you have any advice for them? Oh hmm there certainly are a lot of model chasers in this industry. I’m not exactly sure what types of advice to give to a “model chaser” other than tell them to stop trying to date a model! I can’t imagine how a relationship could be in any way fulfilling if it is based solely on looks! If there is anything I can’t stand it is pretentiousness so I guess
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I would tell all model chasers to put an end to the “show offy� act. What was the spiciest thing you’ve ever shot? I recently shot a pretty sexy editorial with a guy that involved a lot of physical contact. Need I say more? Besides modeling what else do you have your hands in or plan on doing? Originally modeling was going to serve as a way to pay my way through college. However, as more and more work opportunities came up and work became more demanding, I have decided to dedicate myself to working full time while attending college part time. I currently attend college part time at Parsons The New School. After taking an inspiring course in marketing a few years ago I developed a strong passion for marketing and hope to work in that field once modeling is no longer an option. A large part of my life was also dedicated to dance. For about 13 year I was a competitive Irish dancer. Between modeling and school I was forced to give up dancing. However, it is something that I greatly miss and hope to get back into in the near future, whether it be going back to Irish dance or studying modern or tap!
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If there is
anything
I can’t stand it is
pretentiousness
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ell w o H s ou arie elasquez M V n w @ orina C Andre annum er ir H ph ha ra + og p ot -u aylor ph ake el T m od m
PREVIOUS / LEFT / RIGHT Mac prolong wear concealer Makeup forever hd powder Anastasia Beverly Hills brow wiz medium ash Mac chrome yellow + electric eel eyeshadow Mac prolong wear mascara Mac blush frankly scarlet + peaches Dose of color lipstick love potion
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Mac prolong wear concealer Makeup forever hd powder Anastasia Beverly Hills brow wiz medium ash Mac eyeshadow chrome yellow + bitter Mac eyeshadow golden rod as blush Dose of color lipstick angelic
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Mac prolong wear concealer Makeup forever hd powder Anastasia Beverly Hills medium ash brow wiz Mac eyeshadow gesso + golden rod Dose of color lipstick karma + sunshine kisses lipgloss
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Mac prolong wear concealer Makeup forever hd powder Makeup forever 12 flash color case in gold shade for brows Mac eye shadow goldmine + amber lights Dose of color lipgloss undressed
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Mac prolong wear concealer Makeup forever hd powder Anastasia Beverly Hills brow wiz medium ash Mac pigments neon orange, magenta, fuschia and grape Dose of color lipstick karma
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Mac prolong wear concealer Makeup forever hd powder Anastasia Beverly Hills brow wiz medium ash Mac gingerly blush Mac eyeshadows nylon, goldmine, amber lights Makeup forever 12 flash case in teal as liner Dose of color lipstick coy
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Mac prolong wear concealer Makeup forever hd powder Anastasia Beverly Hills brow wiz medium ash Mac pigments neon orange, magenta, fuschia and grape Dose of color lipstick karma
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photographer RAUL TOVAR styllist ERIN MCSHERRY hair + make-up MAYELA VAZQUEZ models JAQ + BRUNA @muse ny
photographer RAUL TOVAR stylist ERIN MCSHERRY hair + make-up MAYELA VAZQUEZ models JAQ + BRUNA @ muse ny
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skirt GEORGINE top CHARLOTTE RONSON jacket GIORGIO ARMANI ring ALEXIS BITTAR belt RAINA BELTS hat SENSI STUDIO
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Bruna wears skirt KATIE ERMILIO blouse ROBERTO CAVALLI jacket HAUTE HIPPIE sunglasses KAREN WALKER necklace & ring ALEXIS BITTAR belt RAINA BELTS shoes ALESSANDRO OTERI clutch MAWI Jaq wears shorts KORA RAE belt RAINA BELTS jacket KATIE ERMILIO gloves CAROLINA AMATO glasses KAREN WALKER earrings MAWI top JEWEL BY LISA
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dress JOHN GALLIANO belt RAINA BELTS jacket HAUTE HIPPIE shoes AQUAZURRA necklace ALEXIS BITTAR
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blouse + skirt HAUTE HIPPIE dress NHA KHANH bracelets ALEXIS BITTAR
assistant photographer NADIA MANJARREZ beauty assistant ROSY LEAL
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words Rebecca Giampolo photographer Andrew Boyle
Four short years removed from long days spent on the streets of Providence, fresh-faced fashion designer Jenny Lai was welcomed back to her collegiate stomping grounds from her surprisingly bare Upper West Side studio apartment.
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While woefully reminiscing on dreams that preceded her driver’s license and a world that predated the Internet, Lai vividly remembers walking along Venetian streets and fatefully stumbling upon a long-sleeved velvet dress. It was in that instant, at the ripe age of 14-years-old, that Lai knew she was destined to design clothing. Focusing on her new dreams, Lai began sewing her own Velcro and lace-up tops before she entered high school. While her middle school peers practiced their multiplication tables, Lai strategically worked with charcoal, clay, and oil paints. Possessing characteristics commonly referred to as the “artisan trifecta,” Lai not only has an admiration for art in the most common dimensions, but also values the auditory and performance aspects of the craft. “I’ve always had an appreciation for the performing arts, especially when you’re really putting yourself out there,” Lai explains. “Although I am an introvert at heart, performing allows me to be in touch with my extroverted self. Art is the perfect outlet for my reserved nature, and the reason I enjoy clothing so much is because it has always been a way that I can express myself silently.” The young designer not only emulates ideas about style that imitate those of well-recognized stylist, editor, and fashion designer Rachel Zoe, but also recreates ideas once presented to the world by Miuccia Prada, the renowned clothing curator behind the luxurious Italian fashion house, Prada.
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Although the three designers have completely uncorrelated aesthetics, there is an overlap of aggravated passion and persistence among them. As Zoe puts it, “style is a way to say who you are without having to speak,” and while the quote aligns entirely with Lai’s thoughts, the two interpretations also correlate with the ideas that triggered some of Prada’s best work. “What you wear is how you present yourself to the world — especially today, when human contacts are so quick,” Lai says. “Fashion is an instant language.”
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Although that language is at the mercy of those living in a world where people quite literally wear their hearts on their sleeves and their thoughts across their chests, Lai’s fashions are impressionable, rather than outspoken. “The brand is a conceptual line in the sense that my interest in clothing is very much from these questions I have about how people dress: What inspires them? How do they actually put on the tangible garment?” Lai notes. “Thanks to my studies and travels, I have even had the opportunity to question the evolution of fashion through cultures. I was always curious to know how styles move around the world and influence different cultures.”
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If there is one person familiar with the feeling of culture shock, it is definitely the Rhode Island School of Design (RISD) graduate, who is now in the peak of her fourth post-college year.
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Before establishing a permanent residency in the Upper West Side of New York City, the California native took to a studio in Mexico City where she studied traditional artisan techniques, followed by a project designing jewelry for a woman’s cooperative in Rwanda, an apprenticeship in the atelier of Viktor and Rolf in Amsterdam, and another at the Boudicca in London. Lai, the founder of a company that is literally “more than just a label,” graduated from RISD with a degree in apparel design, in addition to an established aesthetic, brilliant idea, and keen eye for a loosely targeted niche in the market.
As we lose people, places, and memories, we can be so full of holes that we float at New York Fashion Week in late 2012.
Whether Lai could have foreseen her future success at such a young age is another question entirely. But with her unique take on general necessity, she found a common ground between the innovators of high fashion and her high-street target market. “I hate to denote my target market by age, but if I had to identify consumers by that demographic, I would say that ages typically range between 25-45, although there will always be women that are older,” Lai confesses. “The line is more about the mentality of the buyer, rather than the number of years she has been alive. My preferred customer is not afraid of looking different, portraying a personal statement, or creating a style all their own, independent of any trends displayed on the catwalk or in couture campaigns.” Despite her desire to break the mold of contemporary catwalk clothing, Lai and her abstract brand have caused enough of a stir within the heart of the industry to warrant the debut of her spring/summer 2013 collection, Porous,
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Two short years removed from college finals and intermediate runway shows, Lai was immediately thrown into the big leagues with lots of speculation and an unimaginable load of pressure. Still, Lai handled the show with poise, brilliance, and unwavering confidence. “I was up for it, but I also like to show during other times of the year; the show doesn’t necessarily have to be at fashion week,” Lai says of her first experience participating in the reputable runway event. “For me, it’s more about creating a unique show than a runway show. I just like to experiment with new ways to present my work.” Despite her past achievements, wistful talent, and natural curiosity, Lai is not intimidated or jaded by her vast accomplishments. The catwalk debut of the NOT Porous collection may have been Lai’s true breakthrough into the industry, but she had taken a stab at the stage the previous year to showcase her fall/autumn 2012 collection, Portrait by Sheet.
Vibrant, whimsical, and outstanding enough to catch the eye of many influential people in the industry, Porous — which quite literally describes the pieces in the collection — featured introverted feminine garments appropriately accented with sheer panels and skin-revealing cutouts. While displaying her line to some of the biggest front rowers at fashion week, Lai received inspirational support from her favorite legendary designers, including powerhouse pleater Issey Miyake and “mother of punk” Vivienne Westwood. With floral prints galore, Lai sharpened the girly designs of her iconic spring/summer 2013 collection with mean ruching and edgy mesh detailing. The seemingly arbitrary use of color equipped with Lai’s signature spin on ready-towear caused her arrangement to appear quite contoured. Although the models wore unquestionably chic eyewear appropriate for the upcoming season, the main hues of the collection consisted of pinks, purples, and bright reds that thoroughly quenched the thirst for springtime. The oversized, rose-tinted sunglasses sported on the catwalk complemented the oversized eyelet garments lining Lai’s runway. Inspired by the empty spaces accumulated over a lifetime, Lai turned a seemingly dismal idea into tangible expression with expert ease. Her collection aimed to expose human fragility with the use of revealing cut outs that left knees, shoulders, and the often overlooked flesh behind the legs brilliantly bare. “As we lose people, places, and memories, we can be so full of holes that we float,” the de-
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signer told Lux and Concord at the time her first spring/summer collection showed during New York Fashion Week. “Certain garments have the effect of making us feel bigger, stronger, and more impermeable than we really are.” Poetically reworking her original idea to fit the sparks of the specific season, Lai’s androgynous brand, NOT, salutes “the space around the solid and tangible.” Lai firmly believes the true beauty of every individual product lies within the hidden spaces formed by the inevitable folds of a particular fabric that create character in clothing. Her ensembles focus on the woman who sometimes wishes to view the unseen world, yet never forgets her true colors — or lack thereof — when putting her daily disguise together. Lai’s instantaneously popular collections encompass designs based on the idea that individuality comes not from the exposed, but the unknown. In NOT’s first season, the individually curated garments sold in two stores stationed in downtown New York. After a busy yet successful launch, Lai embarked on the construction of a second collection, but at the time of her second line’s debut, Lai
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was bombarded with so much feedback, her head was in a tizzy. While some people suggested an expansion into the Asian market, others down right demanded it — for Lai’s sake, of course. Since she was no stranger to spontaneous and short-lived travels, Lai decided to take a trip to Taiwan and Hong Kong to further assess the opportunity across the world. Although she was strongly susceptible to criticism, the fearless fashionista accumulated a great deal of store research, met a handful of accredited people in the industry, and got a better idea of the oriental fashion scene. Despite Lai’s original views and unique take on utilitarianism, it was hard for her fashion followers to resist comparing her to some of the well-known designers with similar Asian-American heritage. While Jason Wu cleverly composed the Inaugural Ball gown for First Lady Michelle Obama, Alexander Wang and Thakoon were continuously racking up celebrity clients, thanks to an infinite number of published features in some of the highest-grossing fashion magazines. Solely based on cultural background, Asian-Amer-
ican designers have been ranked together since Jenny Lai was fresh to the fashion scene. “In the last five years or so, there have been prominent Asian-American designers in New York, which has been kind of surprising!” Lai told Hyphen Magazine less than a decade ago. “I think there’s a lot of promise for Asian-American designers now.”
zine interview. “I admire how Alexander Wang has been so successful and covered the sporty and luxury market in such a short time, but if there’s anyone whose career I’d like to emulate, I guess I would say someone like Issey Miyake.” Prior to that conversation, Lai had visited Taiwan and Hong Kong to establish the opportunity for a target market for her up-and-coming clothing experience. Despite receiving loads of warranted expert advice on her trip, the choice to expand ultimately fell on her shoulders.
I think there’s a lot of promise for Asian-American designers now
A little math tells us Lai was referring to 2006 as the start of the “Asian invasion” of the fashion industry — the same year Thakoon was one of the three recipients of the Vogue/CFDA Fashion Fund. But while the trailblazers are ones to admire, they’re not ones for Lai to follow, as she prefers to march to the beat of her own drum.
“I’m not particularly in love with any Asian-American designers,” Lai continued in the Hyphen Maga-
“The Taiwanese consumer market is behind that of Hong Kong and New York. There are some hip stores, but I wonder how well it will survive,” Lai says. “I’m not convinced my pieces will do well (because) it’s all very different. I might do production and sourcing work in Asia, but I feel like New York is my home.”
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Fast forward to a relatively passive bar in downtown Providence, which Lai is seeing via Skype from her white leather sofa in her comfy, self-proclaimed “hometown” apartment. But Thayer Street has certainly become just a memory for the fast-paced designer, as she now swears by the individuality and eccentricity found among the streets of New York City. “Living on the Upper West Side, I’m inspired on a daily basis,” Lai says. “Just by looking out my apartment window, I am exposed to people going to the opera, old ladies in bright pink trench coats, and, not to mention, the distinctiveness of the teens who attend either of the two high schools around the corner. It’s like a clash at the boulevard.” And who wouldn’t choose that over the commercial streets of Providence?
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And who wouldn’t choose that over the commercial streets of Providence?
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Cape Side photographer Charlie Himmelstein model Kelly Mayhugh @ wilhelmina
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previous shirt BOY LONDON shorts BLANK NYC watch VINTAGE earring + plug + sunglasses MODEL’S OWN shoes SAM EDELMAN
LEFT / RIGHT shirt BOY LONDON skirt BRANDY MELVILLE watch VINTAGE earring +plug + sunglasses MODEL’S OWN backpack URBAN OUTFITTERS
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shirt AMERICAN APPAREL bikini bottoms VITAMIN A SWIMWEAR plug MODEL’S OWN
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left / right shirt AMERICAN APPAREL plug MODEL’S OWN
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shirt AMERICAN APPAREL bikini bottoms VITAMIN A SWIMWEAR plug MODEL’S OWN
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PREVIOUS / LEFT / RIGHT hoodie Y3 jersey Knicks shorts Nike boots Steve Madden earrings + ring Maria Black
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hoodie Y3 jersey Knicks shorts Nike boots Steve Madden earrings + ring Maria Black
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hoodie Y3 jersey Knicks shorts Nike boots Steve Madden earrings + ring Maria Black
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hoodie Y3 jersey Knicks shorts Nike boots Steve Madden earrings + ring Maria Black
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shirt Ann Demeulemeester necklace + earring stylist’s own
LEFT / RIGHT dress Marc Jacobs necklace Givenchy ring Noir necklace + bracelet stylist’s own
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top Eckhaus Latta necklace stylist’s own bracelet Giles & Bros
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left / right top Eckhaus Latta sweatpants Nike flannel BDG ring Noir necklace stylist’s own bracelet Giles & Bros
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top Eckhaus Latta sweatpants Nike flannel BDG boots Doc Martens bracelet Giles & Bros ring Noir necklace stylist’s own
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LEFT / RIGHT visor APC top Balenciaga tights Nike bangle Burberry Prorsum bracelet stylist’s own ring Noir
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LEFT / RIGHT visor APC top Balenciaga bangle Burberry Prorsum bracelet stylist’S own
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reflector PHOTOGRAPHER’S OWN necklace + ring VINTAGE
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CONTRIBUTORS
MAKE-UP + HAIR
STYLISTs
PHOTOGRAPHERS Corina Marie Howell Eric White Irvin Riveria Jennifer Massaux Nadine Lambertz Pietsch Raul Tovar Zed Saeed
Adrian De Ausen Brit Cato Erin McSherry Judson Harmon Nina Tiari Sarah Conen
Allison McGillicuddy Andrew Velasquez Clay Nielsen David Lee Grenda Joel Vasquez Joseph Adivari Kyle Malone @ Exclusive Artists Mayela Vazquez Nina J. Sophie Haig
ASSISTANTS
MODELS Bruna @ Muse Jaq @ Muse Julia Epp @ M4 Julia Oleynik @ Adam Kara Gicson @ Otto Kelly Mauhugh @ Wilhelmina Megan McLellen @ Place Merethe Hopland @ Supreme Nickayla Rivera @ Photogenics Sarah Stephens @ Women Direct Taylor Hannum @ Nous
Alvio Mancuso Ben Kui Nadia Manjarrez Nik Le Sante @ Contra Studios Rosy Leal
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VOL. 2014
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