Hand Embroidery
Royal School of Needlework
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F dA H and Em b roid er y
Contents
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4-21 6-7 8-9 10-11 12-13 14-15 16-17 18-19 20-21
FdA 2 Charis Bailey Pearl Haslam Lesley Illingworth Ruby Le Galle Ally Rouse Lottie Small Marie Wenham Shauna White
22-39 24-25 26-27 28-29 30-31 32-33 34-35 36-37 38-39
BA (Hons) Fiona Askew Gemma Lucas William Ovenden Heidi Pearl Luna Bella Samuels Harriet Frances Stiles Rachel Thorpe Fiona Townsend
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Contact Details With Thanks
Foreword We lc om e to th e first Royal S chool of N e e dl e work D e gr e e Pro gr a mm e ‘Look Book 2 014’ T he Royal S chool of Needlework of fers the only Degree Programme in Hand Embroider y in Europe. It is a unique course and because of this, so are our graduates We have had an exceptional year and it is through the high calibre and qualit y of our students’ work that we have par ticipated in and been invited to be a par t of so many ex ternal projectsRecent collaborations have included: E.Taut z for London Collections: M en Atelier Hussein Chalayan for Paris Fashion Week M &S / Ox fam ‘ S hwop – Love Mum campaign’ Giles Deacon for London Fashion Week Fashion Atelier at Graduate Fashion Week 2 014 For t wo consecutive years, R S N Degree students have been awarded the Embroiderers Guild Scholar of the Year I would like to take this oppor tunit y on behalf of all of the Royal S chool of Needlework S taf f, members of R S N C ouncil and all of our course and Bursar y sponsors to ‘C ongratulate’ our D egree students on their achievements and wish them well for their future su cce s s . Angi e W yman // D e gr e e Cour s e L e a d e r
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FdA 2 Hand Embroidery
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F dA H and Em b roid er y
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Charis Bailey
The piece collection is an example of Charis’ inspiration came from the how she has developed traditional, myriad of different places and hand embroider y ‘raised work’ buildings in her life that have had techniques to create bespoke, intricate, significant influence on her. “There detailed embroidered letters that can was always more to each place than then be used in I first expected.” many different The inspiration for “My vision is to create bespoke, ways. Future the detail in her detailed hand embroidered items collections work has arisen from a personal of meaning and use. I’m passionate will explore lettering collection of fonts, about the value of life and I really and fonts written and given to love working alongside people, for bespoke Charis by children, supporting them through stitching” embroidered family and friends. jeweller y.
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Pearl Haslam
“Pearl has developed a love for period design”
M o de l / / C h a r is Ba iley
Pearl’s embroidery takes on a unique and visually rich persona with a creative background in fine art and print making, she aims to create works of both fine art and historically based pieces for use in stage and film. Her influences come from Art Nouveau, Pre-Raphaelites and World history. From a previous experience in commercial millinery, Pearl has developed a love for period design. As a stitch artist her aim is to incorporate traditional hand embroidery techniques into highly romanticized figurative imagery and historical design. This is teamed with her knowledge of both modern and ancient history; Pearl creates work with an explosive mix of colours, fact and meaning.
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“the work uses quilting and hand embroidery to recreate tactile panels as illustrations for teaching�
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Lesley Illingworth
Lesley Illingworth uses her technical knowledge and skills in hand embroidery to create innovative and contemporary work for interiors. Inspired by the needlework tools and equipment used to teach hand embroidery to children, the work uses quilting and hand embroidery to recreate tactile panels as illustrations for teaching. Raised work and drawn thread combine to create three dimensional characters to convey a story.
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Ruby Le Galle Ruby explores the contrast between traditional techniques and minimalist art which inspires her to create contemporary textiles. These are hand dyed and embellished with hand embroidery. Her work explores ideas of colour, shape, proportion, surface and texture resulting in fabrics that are given value by the time and process invested in their making. Ruby’s cur re nt work is influe nce d by contemporary Japanese textile art, and the concept of using traditional crafts to create new work focused on colour and surface. She recently undertook a study visit to Japan to learn traditional techniques that she is now incorporating with hand embroidery to create modern fabric pieces, scarves, and bags.
“Minimalist art inspires me to create contempory textiles”
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“exploring contemporary aspects of embroidery by stitching with unusual objects”
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Ally Rouse Ally uses photography alongside traditional stitch techniques to gain unusual perspectives on everyday subject matter; creating pieces for contemporary interiors. Ally enjoys exploring contemporary aspects of embroidery by stitching with unusual objects and materials such as hair and feathers.Â
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Lottie Small Since Lottie was a young girl she has collected “toot”. Enchanted by their stories, she kept them in jars and tin boxes, waiting to put them to use. These objects are continuously used within her work and then replenished to inspire more. Her creative background is mirrored in her work, she uses and “A thirst for history and cultures makes books continously feeds into my work” o r c a s e s to create small hidden worlds with print, stitch and weave. Overtime this practice inspired a body of artwork based on stories and cultures.
A thirst for history and cultures continuously feeds into her work, finding new ways to juxtapose the contemporary and the historical or the traditional and the non traditional. There is a beauty in using ancient tools and techniques to create crafted objects that she adores. The power of the hand made is something she has admired since she was a child. “It is of the upmost importance to me to train myself in traditional crafts to the highest level. I use traditional processes like book binding, embroidery or printing and combine them to move these traditional crafts forward while remaining sympathetic to their roots. I want people to be fascinated by my work as I was with the objects that inspired them. My work is not to be looked at behind glass or simply examined, it is for people to interact with, feel and enjoy.”
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Marie Wenham Marie’s deepest interests lie within illustration, painting and dressmaking. Her embroidery is a wonderful addition to all her work for its minute detail and skill. She takes a lot of her inspiration from nature and the ocean; the variety of colours, the rocks and the reflections from the water’s surface. Her favourite embroidery techniques are beading, goldwork and crewel work.
“From nature and the ocean; the variety of colours, the rocks and the reflections from the water’s surface”
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“Shauna takes inspiration for her work from scientific and mathamatical theories�
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Shauna White
Model // Zoe Booth
Shauna is a textile artist who uses repetition to create concise geometric patterns; using scientific knowledge and traditional hand embroidery training to manipulate fabric and play with the bending and trapping of light. Shauna takes inspiration for her work from scientific and mathematical theories, including atomic and molecular structures. With particular interest in geometric patterns and their infinite repetitions, Shauna now plans to take traditional hand embroidery techniques and combine this with her scientific knowledge to move the subject forward in a new and exciting direction. With an interest in creating pieces for fashion which can also be displayed as fine art, using simple dress shapes with intricate embroidery inspired by academic and scientific studies.
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BA (Hons) Hand Embroidery
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B A ( Hons) H and Em b roid er y
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Fiona Askew Fiona employs her expertise in hand embroider y to compose original, inspiring contemporary collections for both fashion and interiors, combining luxurious natural fabrics with surface embellishment. Her latest collection was inspired by nature and fables, abstracted to intrigue the viewer. Fiona develops these themes from the subject matter, exploring them through drawing and embroidery. Fiona’s signature
designs showcase her skills in selecting opulent, beautiful and dramatic colours in luxurious natural fabrics as the base for her skilled embroideries and embellishments. Fiona is keen to obtain employment within the creative industries, preferably for high-end interiors and couture fashion. She hopes to use and enhance her skills and learn new techniques while contributing to creative projects.
“original, inspiring contemporary collections for both fashion and interiors, combining luxurious natural fabrics with surface embellishment“
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Gemma Lucas Gemma is an experimental embroiderer and creator of contemporary jewelled inspired samples. From a young age she formed a passion for precious and non-precious stones alongside precious metals. ‘Golden Exotics’ takes inspiration from international and historic jewelled archives displayed at the Beyond El Dorado: power and gold
“From a young age she formed a passion for precious and non precious stones alongside precious metals”
in ancient Colombia exhibition, Sutton Hoo Exhibition and the Egyptian archives within the British Museum. The vibrant colours are inspired by Matthew Williamson’s Spring/ Summer 2013 Collection and Gustav Klimt’s gold colour palettes. The semi circles are linked to the Egyptian sun disc hieroglyphs, and beetle wings symbolising the superstitious beliefs of Egyptian scarab beetles. The uses of silky threads are inspired by feather headdresses from the Beyond El Dorado exhibition. Whilst the square layout and square shaped stones are inspired by geometric Celtic knot work.
Pho to g raphy Headshot London 2014
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William Ovenden Will creates work which centres on the documentation of the obscure; revealing and celebrating the details he sees. Will plays with ideas, thoughts and concepts and realises them through hand embroidery, surface embellishment and surface pattern. His latest collection is centred on his family history and the heritage of his ancestors in the textiles industry, more specifically in tailoring. Current work explores materials and stitches involved with tailoring, alongside conceptualising the idea of belonging, the idea and purpose of materials with identity.
“Will plays with ideas, thoughts and concepts and realises them through hand embroidery, surface embellishment and surface pattern�
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“uses beads to create very textured and tactile bespoke embroideries for wall panels for the contemporary interior�
Heidi works to specific seasons and trends, which inspire hand embroidery for interiors. Her collections are also inspired by her own trends and inspiration. Current practice uses beads to create very textured and tactile bespoke embroideries for wall panels for the contemporary interior. Collections within her current portfolio include inspiration from engineered machinery through to locations such as Morocco, India and Africa. All use traditional hand embroidery, including beading to create handcrafted embroideries inspired by her own designs and patterns.
Heidi Pearl
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Luna Bella Samuels
Model // Mitchel l Walker Luna is collector of craft techniques with a drive to learn all there is surrounding the concept of stitch. Luna’s ambition is to perfect traditional hand embroidery techniques which build up an extensive repertoire of understanding. Luna is inspired by Architecture “Luna is a believer that highand Geometry which is a quality work deserves materials reflection of a confident and technical approach of the same calibre; but that it is to meticulously practised the imperfections of hand-made craft. Luna is a believer that work which makes them unique” high-quality work deserves materials of the same calibre; but that it is the imperfections of hand-made work which makes them unique. This collection was inspired by optica l illusion and concrete structures. The recurring motif of the ‘Penrose Triangle’ is a reflection of the obsession we have in our strive for perfection.
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Model // Hanni Lane
Harriet Frances Stiles Harriet’s current collection entitled ‘The Garden of Marine’, takes inspiration from the ‘Garden of Eden’ and The Exquisite. Harriet has incorporated her fascination of sub-marine flora and fauna, exploring sea creatures and plant forms which are prevalent within her collection. These are enhanced by an intoxication of intense colour juxtaposed with luminous, neon tones. Investigations into how light can “an intoxication of intense change an object’s appearance represent the natural colour juxtaposed with underwater habitat. Intended for the luxury market, the size, scale and materials are amalgamated to create luminous, neon tones” The Exquisite. This body of work composes metal with embroidery, to create a flamboyant representation of ‘The Garden of Marine’, in the form of an adornment. Explorations into the amalgamation of hard and soft are evident in this luxurious tactile jewellery.
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Rachel Thorpe Rachel’s creative practice is influenced by a desire to understand her environment through making. “The microscopic world coexists beside our own. It is undetectable to the naked eye and is often presented as an invisible enemy, yet the majority of organisms are benign.” By presenting the images as both beautiful and sinister, Rachel seeks to question our relationship with the natural world. Distorted shapes, opacity, and transparency combine with uneven, freehand stitching to give a feeling of organic movement. Shadows materialise behind the embroidered areas and transient forms appear symbolising the chaotic, microscopic world.
“The microscopic world coexists beside our own. It is undetectable to the naked eye and is often presented as an invisible enemy, yet the majority of organisms are benign” 37
B A ( Hons) H and Em b roid er y
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Fiona Townsend
Fiona employs her expertise in hand embroidery to compose original, inspiring contemporary collections for both fashion and interiors, combining luxurious natural fabrics with surface embellishment. Her latest collection was inspired by nature and fables, abstracted to intrigue the viewer. Fiona develops these themes from the subject matter, “Fiona develops these themes from exploring them through drawing and the subject matter, exploring them embroidery. Fiona’s signature designs through drawing and embroidery” showcase her skills in selecting opulent, beautiful and dramatic colours in luxurious natural fabrics as the base for her skilled embroideries and embellishments. Fiona is keen to obtain employment within the creative industries, preferably for high-end interiors and couture fashion. She hopes to use and enhance her skills and learn new techniques while contributing to creative projects.
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Co n t ac t D et a i l s Fd A 2
BA ( H o n s)
Ch ar i s B ailey Ch ar i s b ailey29@ g m ail .co m 0752 24 6 8 697 F ace b ook .co m / b aileye m broid e r y
Fion a A skew Fion a _ A s kew@ou t look .co m 079 0 629 9 074
Pe ar l H a sl a m Pe ar lh a sl a m32@ hot m ail .co m 07532 0 9 4 816 Le sley I lling wor t h le sley _ illi ng wor t h @ y a hoo.co.u k 07 7413955 81 Ru by Le G a lle r u by lg @ li ve .co m 074 4 612762 0 r u by le g a lle .co.u k A ll y Rou se A lli son _ rou se @ hot m ail .co.u k 0787962 8 619 I n s t a gr a m: s t i t c hing _ a nd _ b i t c hing L ot t ie S m a ll lot t ie s m a ll @ hot m ail .co m 075 8 4 0 8 5956 F ace b ook .co m / lot t ie s m a ll t e x t ile ar t i s t M ar ie We n h a m ju b b l y b u b b l y _ 6 @ hot m ail .co m S h au n a W hi t e s h au n aw hi t e e m broid e r y@ hot m ail .co m 079 0392679 8 f ace b o ok .co m /s h au n aw hi t e e m broid e r y
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Gemma Lucas ge m m alu c a se m broid e r y@ou t look .co m 07 783 8 8 0135 f ace b ook .co m /ge m m alu c a se m broid e r y Willi a m O ve nd e n w illi a move nd e n 0 0 @ g m ail .co m 079623 0 02 26 @ w illove nd e n H e id i Pe ar l he id i p e ar lh a nd e m broid e r y@ou t look .co m L inke d I n: H e id i Pe ar l I n s t a gr a m: H E I D I _ M _ P E A R L L u n a B e ll a S a mue l s info @ lu n a - b e ll a .co.u k w w w. lu n a - B e ll a .co.u k 07578 56 63 8 5 f ace b ook .co m / lu n a b e ll a .e m broid e r y @ L u n a B e ll aC S H ar r ie t Fr a nce s S t ile s h ar r ie t s t ile s @ g m ail .co m R ac he l T hor p e r ac he l _ r ac he l @ ic loud .co m Fiona Townsend flt st it c hes@out look.com 07772187473
With Thanks On behalf of all the Royal School of Needlework FdA 2 and BA (Hon) students
We would like to give our personal thanks to the following people for all their help and support: Dr Susan Kay-Williams – RSN Chief Executive Angie Wyman – Degree Course Leader Amanda Ewing – Technical Stitch Tutor Dr Clare Rose – Contextual Studies Lecturer Cheryl Welsh – Senior Lecturer And to all those who have supported the RSN Degree Programme this year, especially the Trusts and Livery Companies
This book was created by Robyn Harms 2nd year FPI student at the University for the Creative Arts and Graphic Design graduate Christian Baranowicz The stunning photos you see in this book were taken by Tas Kyprianou 2014 cargocollective.com/RobynHarms behance.net/chrisbaranowicz www.taskyprianou.com Thank you to Coats plc for sponsoring the RSN at New Designers 2014
We would also like to give our special thanks to the following people for their advice, support and skill over the past year: Sophia Malik Beatrice Mayfield
Thank you to Coats plc for sponsoring the RSN at New Designers 2014
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R oyal School of N eed l ewor k Ap t 1 2 A Hampton Cou r t Pal ace Sur r ey KT 8 9 AU, U K w w w.r oyal-needlewor k.or g.u k E; angie .w yman@r oyal-needlewor k.or g.u k +44( 0) 20 3 1 6 6 6 9 2 9 R CN 3 1 2 7 7 4 42