Charitable Traveller - January-February24 - Issue20 by Charitable Traveller Magazine

50% travel, 50% charity, 100% meaningful

50% travel, 50% charity, 100% meaning January/February 2024 ISSUE 20

Get your glow on © Visit Finland

Boost your wellbeing with a restorative holiday to nurture your mind, body and soul this year

OUR 2024 WISH LIST

Inspiration for the year ahead from our favourite writers

FRANCE IN FOCUS

Explore the best of our nearest neighbour

SUSTAINABLE JOURNEYS All you need to know about travelling responsibly

In with the NEW FROM THE EDITOR

Rebecca Miles

One of my favourite parts of this job is getting to work with an incredible group of freelance travel writers, who have a gift for uncovering enviable places to visit, and a knack for spinning a good yarn about them. So when it came to planning this, our first issue of 2024, it made sense to ask them to share with us their travel wish list for the year ahead. Turn to p52 for ideas and inspiration. You’ll also find plenty of inspiration on the UK’s closest neighbour, France, starting on p28. The country has a big year planned for

I love working with an incredible group of freelance travel writers, who have a gift for uncovering enviable places to visit, and a knack for spinning a good yarn about them 2024, but there is so much more to discover to this famed land beyond the capital city and the Olympics. And if you’re looking for some solace and comfort in the coming months, browse our round up of holidays that’ll boost your wellbeing, starting on p14. Lastly, don’t miss our interview with Melissa Tilling, not just founder of Charitable Travel but also now the founder of Sustainable Journeys, a tour operator that’s putting responsible travel at the very centre of everything it offers customers, on p46. Wishing all our readers and supporters a very happy new year!

©CHARITABLE TRAVEL 2023. CHARITABLE TRAVELLER is part of CHARITABLE TRAVEL, Fundraising Futures Community Interest Company, Contingent Works, Broadway Buildings, Elmfield Road, Bromley, BR1 1LW, UK. Putting our profit to work supporting the work of charitable causes. Our animal protection policy can be viewed here. T: 020 3092 1288 E: bookings@charitable.travel W: charitable.travel While every effort is made to ensure accuracy, CHARITABLE TRAVEL cannot be held responsible for any errors or omissions. FRONT COVER: © Visit Finland. ICONS: thenounproject.com & flaticon.com. CEO: Melissa Tilling; MARKETING: Ally Ware, Rosie Buddell, Adam Pedley & Maddy Foot; MAGAZINE EDITOR: Rebecca Miles (editor@charitable.travel); MAGAZINE DESIGNER: Claire Gates

2 JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2024

22 40 58 60

28 50% travel, 50% charity, 100% meaningful

100% meaningful January/February 2024 50% travel, 50% charity, ISSUE 20

Get your glow on © Visit Finland

Boost your wellbeing with a restorative holiday to nurture year your mind, body and soul this

OUR 2024 WISH LIST

Inspiration for the year ahead from our favourite writers

4 8 10 11 13 14

FRANCE IN FOCUS

Explore the best of our nearest neighbour

Get the picture Global good news Armchair travel Win Lonely Planet’s Best in Travel 2024 Ask the expert We solve your travel dilemmas Boost your wellbeing with our round up of restorative holidays Green traveller How to wildlife watch responsibly

SUSTAINABLE JOURNEYS All you need to know about travelling responsibly

23 24 28

INSIDE

this issue

Postcard from Arkansas Get to know Tokyo France in focus With slow travel, water sports and more 40 Postcard from Naples 42 Get to know Ecuador 46 Sustainable Journeys Our ground-breaking tour operator shakes things up 49 4 Views Of... Tartu 50 5 travel... areas of Perth

Our 2024 wish list Inspirational ideas for where to visit next from some of our favourite writers 56 5 charities... mental health 58 Why I Donate to Dogs 4 Wildlife 59 Day in the life with Access the Dales’ founder 60 Social enterprise Q&A with Common Seas 62 In numbers akt

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Save the sea with sculptures

Portugal’s first underwater exhibition has opened less than two kilometres off the Algarve coast near Albufeira. Created by Lisbon street artist Vhils, the collection of 13 sculptures are displayed 12 metres below the sea’s surface. The Art Reef project combines the creative power of art with the creative power of nature to raise awareness about the importance of defending the ocean as each piece was made using materials salvaged from the coal-fired power stations of EDP, the Portuguese electricity company that is transitioning from fossil fuels to renewable energy.

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Get the picture

Where to watch

Answering the dilemma of how best to encounter wild animals is Wildlife Heritage Areas, a new global programme that seeks to assure visitors of outstanding and responsible wildlife tourism experiences. Organised by World Animal Protection and World Cetacean Alliance, working with a coalition of responsible travel businesses and wildlife charities, this global benchmark has launched with eight areas around the world (including the Amazon Uakari Heritage Area, pictured) with plans for many more. Dylan Walker, from Wildlife Heritage Areas, said, “By working in partnership with locals, and charitable and responsible tourism experts, we can showcase how culture, responsible tourism and ideas for coexistence can create a better future for places, nature and people.”

6 JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2024

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Two Sides of Sustainable West Sweden Gothenburg is Sweden’s second city and is buzzing with museums and art galleries, music venues, craft beermakers, and more than its fair share of fantastic restaurants. The city is filled with green spaces including two botanical gardens and has direct access to the archipelago. All that and Gothenburg has again been named the world’s most sustainable destination according to the Global Destination Sustainability Index. Gothenburg is also the gateway to invigorating green breaks in wider West Sweden. To the east and north of the city lies an easily reached hinterland of lakes, more lakes, UNESCO certified mountain landscapes, meditative forests, moose, farmland, ancient history, and exceptional, climate-smart places to stay. Five unique family-run businesses have come together as ’Climate Smart Holidays’ to offer trips with a low carbon footprint. They generate their own electricity and keep energy use to a minimum, provide highquality, locally-sourced food, and help you make the most of your stay. The tour operator Sustainable Journeys has just launched holidays to West Sweden: www.sustainablejourneys.co.uk/places/west-sweden

avel in sp e tr

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good news

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GLOBAL

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IRELAND HAS SET A NEW RECORD FOR GENERATING RENEWABLE WIND ENERGY. ON 6TH DECEMBER IT SOURCED 71% OF ITS ELECTRICITY FROM ITS

Climate change

WIND TURBINES

A ‘landmark’ agreement has been reached at the COP28 climate

COP28 DEAL ACKNOWLEDGES FOSSIL FUELS summit in Dubai, as nearly 200 nations have agreed, for the first time, to ‘transition away from fossil fuels’. It’s certainly significant, given that major petrostates Saudi Arabia and the United Arab Emirates have

EXTINCT ORYX BACK FROM THE BRINK Icons from www.flaticon.com - Megaphone speaker by Ayub Irawan; Web by Pixel perfect

An antelope from northern Africa is the first species from the global Extinct in the Wild initiative to be downgraded from ‘extinct’ to ‘endangered’.

signed, and it also pledges to triple renewable energy capacity by 2030, but for many the summit didn’t go far enough. Climate scientists said the deal was too weak and lacked targets or dates for emission cuts, while the Alliance of Small Island States, countries that face inundation at more than 1.5C, criticised a ‘litany of loopholes’ in the text. © Cop28.com

Conservation

It’s the direct result of a globally coordinated effort led by the Environment Agency of Abu Dhabi (EAD) and supported by the Zoological Society of London (ZSL). The scimitar horned oryx, also known as the Sahara oryx, was once widespread across North Africa but by 2000, hunted for its meat and horns, the species was declared Extinct in the Wild by the IUCN Red List.

8 JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2024

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Global good news

Train travel

HUGE INVESTMENT FOR USA RAIL President Biden has announced $8.2 billion of federal grants to fund 10 large-scale passenger rail projects across the USA. Train travel in America has long lagged behind that of Europe or Japan, but this huge investment looks set to improve things. Included in the plan is a highspeed train (running at 186 mph

Sustainable tourism

TOUR OPS INTRODUCE MORE GREEN LABELS

Jet2 and Kuoni are two of the latest tour operators to introduce a labelling scheme for their hotels that meet certain sustainability criteria. Aiming to make it easier for guests to identify more responsible places to stay, green accommodation is flagged on their websites. For Jet2, more than 800 hotels now feature in its Certified Sustainable Hotels collection, and for Kuoni, around 25% of its property portfolio is accredited under its Engage – People and Planet logo. Both schemes meet the Global Sustainable Tourism Council (GSTC) Recognised standards, which are based on sustainable hotel management, social and economic support of the local community, promoting positive cultural impacts and environmental protection.

or faster) linking Las Vegas to Rancho Cucamonga in Southern California, and the 128-mile S-Line project to improve the link between Raleigh, North Carolina, and Richmond, Virginia. The journey currently takes three hours 40 mins by train, or less than two and a half hours by car; this will bring the train journey time down to two hours 10 mins. The federal grants are part of President Biden’s Bipartisan Infrastructure Law, which included $66 billion for passenger rail infrastructure upgrades and improvements, making it the largest single investment in intercity rail in US history.

ATLANTIS BAY, TAORMINA

TAMAN’ART SPACE, A GUESTHOUSE AND

Global recognition

GALLERY IN SOUTHERN MOROCCO, IS A

HOW MANY AWARDS

NEW CREATIVE HUB ENCOURAGING

charity How Many Elephants,

Holly Budge, the founder of the which launched World Female

LOCAL ARTISTS TO THRIVE. RUN BY AISSA

Ranger Week two years ago, has

JOUD AND DECORATED WITH HIS OWN

of the Year in Non-Profit’. Hailed

ARTWORK, IT’S AT AIT BENHADDOU, A

awards, the Stevies recognise

LOCATION POPULAR WITH HOLLYWOOD

won a Stevie Award for ‘Woman as the world’s premier business outstanding achievements. Congratulations Holly!

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THE TOURIST BBC One

©BBC

The Tourist returns for a second season, this time swapping Adelaide and the Outback of Australia for the city streets of Dublin, Ireland, and as the UK’s most-watched drama of 2022, anticipation is high. Jamie Dornan (pictured) and Danielle MacDonald return, and the story continues a year on from when the first season ended. Expect a gripping plot line and great views of not just Dublin, but Bray and Djouce Woods in County Wicklow too. Will ‘The Man’ ever recover from his amnesia?

STRANGER IN YOUR OWN CITY: TRAVELS IN THE MIDDLE EAST’S LONG WAR Ghaith Abdul-Ahad Shortlisted for the 2024 Edward Stanford Travel Book of the Year, this work of great beauty and tragedy was published on the 20th anniversary of the invasion of Iraq, and places the experience of ordinary civilians at its heart. From the American invasion to the Arab Spring, ISIS and beyond, Ghaith manages to de-centre the West’s position in the situation and instead focus on the human cost, the shifting allegiances and the generational changes.

Book

ARMCHAIR

travel time

This issue we cover a BBC blockbuster, two nominees for the Edward Stanford Travel Book of the Year, and a story of race in freeride skiing

Also nominated for the Edward Stanford Travel Book of the Year 2024, The Britannias tells the story of Britain’s islands and how they were woven into its collective cultural psyche. Albinia explores the furthest reaches of Britain’s island topography, from Neolithic Orkney in the north to modern-day Thanet in the south, and traces the ancient British mythology of islands ruled by women. Her literature sources include everything from Roman colonial-era reports to early Welsh poetry and Renaissance drama.

Book

10 JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2024

THE NORTH FACE PRESENTS: DESCENDANCE YouTube

This is the story of Dennis Ranalter, one of the world’s most respected freeride skiers, known for his playful style and technical ability. Yet his self-assurance on the steep slopes of Austria is in contrast with his identity struggles and at the heart of this film is the question of race and what it means to be black in a sport that remains predominantly white. It’s a journey that takes him from his home valley in Austria to Accra, the capital of Ghana.

Film

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THE BRITANNIAS: AN ARCHIPELAGO’S TALE Alice Albinia

WIN LONELY PLANET’S

Best in Travel 2024 Set yourself up for an epic year of travel with Lonely Planet

To mark Lonely Planet’s 50th anniversary, the publisher has expanded from its annual lists of top 10 best cities, countries and regions to include two new categories – best value and best sustainable destinations. It brings the total bests to 50 locations across the globe that offer amazing experiences to enjoy in 2024. Presented in a beautiful hardback book and now in its 19th year, Lonely Planet’s Best in Travel hotlist is voted for by its community of staff, local writers and publishing partners. Aiming to provide expert insight into lesser-known destinations and new takes on popular places, this list seeks to both inspire and follow the instincts of 2024’s traveller. Expect to see entries from Spain, which tops the sustainable travel list having taken great strides to boost off-season travel and expand renewable energy, Wales, thanks to its revamped railways that makes it easier to explore its wild, wonderful west, and Normandy, Algeria and the USA’s Midwest, all praised for their great value.

Topping the list of cities is the sizzling cool Nairobi in Kenya, joined by scenic Mostar in Bosnia and revitalised Izmir in Turkey, while Patagonia, Ecuador and the Baltic Trails of Estonia, Latvia and Lithuania are highlighted for providing responsible ways to connect with nature. “Best in Travel is Lonely Planet’s heart and soul of travel inspiration, responding to the enthusiasm of travellers who want to explore the world in a way that is authentic, led by local guidance and has sustainable values at its core,” says Nitya Chambers, SVP content and executive editor. “With new takes on iconic destinations and 50 fresh ideas across five categories, we’re confident Best in Travel opens-up a year of incredible adventures.”

Win!

We’ve got 10 co pies of Lonely Planet’s Best in Travel 2024 to give away – to be in with a chance of winning one, visit charitable.trav el/lonelyplanet to ente r our competition

Lonely Planet’s Best in Travel 2024 is out now in hardback for £11.99, available where all good books are sold.

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Around the world in 90 minutes

Despina Galani at Unsplash

Caleb at Unsplash

DISCOVER

Belize

LISTEN NOW

Join us on a visit to Belize

heritage, this tropical paradise

on the eastern coast of

offers unparalleled experiences.

Central America. You’ll find

Talking about its epic barrier reef,

the Caribbean Sea on its

our guests are Abil Castaneda,

eastern border and dense

from the Belize Ministry

jungle on its western side.

of Tourism, and Valdemar

With its mix of pristine beaches,

Andrade, from the Turneffe

lush rainforests and rich cultural

Atoll Sustainability Association.

LISTEN NOW

EXPLORE

Queensland

Home to such international

Venture inland and you’ll find

cities as Brisbane and Cairns,

ancient landscapes, remote

Queensland also has a

gorges and national parks

staggering 4,000 miles of

teeming with wildlife. Talking

coastline off which lies its

to us about all this is Kate Duffy,

most famous landmark, the

from Tourism Queensland,

Great Barrier Reef – the world’s

and Johnny Gaskell, a Reef-

largest coral reef system.

based Marine Biologist.

VISIT THE

s d n a l s i k ee r G

LISTEN NOW

Idyllic Mediterranean islands

we want to uncover, and that is

known for their white sandy

to talk about all the incredible

beaches, warm hospitality

conservation work taking place.

and ancient history, they’re

To talk about their projects are

a justifiably popular holiday

Anni Mitropoulou from the

destination. But behind the

Cyclades Preservation Fund and

beautiful Instagram sunset

Victoria Turner from the Ionian

pictures, there’s another side that

Environment Foundation.

Listen, follow and subscribe − wherever you get your podcasts

TraPvOelDCInAsSidT er charitable.travel/travel-insider-podcast

Travel advice

rf r pe e c t h

EXPERT

e.t abl rave l rit

Ask the

y at ch ida a ol

Bo o k

Got a travel consumer query or need some help finding your next dream holiday? Send your questions to our resident travel expert, founder of Charitable Travel, and she’ll answer them here

Getting away on a northern European adventure is a great idea for your active family, not least because you can travel in a low-carbon way. Start with a Eurostar journey from London to Brussels before picking up a hire car to drive to The Netherlands coastline. Renting an EV car is a great option because charging stations are widespread and easy, but make sure you avoid one-way rental fees by building in time to get back to where you started. Alternatively, you can travel by train and really relax. The coastal towns of Scheveningen

(accessed via The Hague by train) and Noordwijk (via Leiden by train) are perfect for a few days of cycling and water sports suitable for your young teens. Next, head towards Germany’s North Sea coast, driving or by train to Hamburg, Germany and onwards from there. Spend several days exploring the Frisian Islands, an archipelago that runs along the coast of the Netherlands, Germany and into Denmark, including the picturesque Sylt, known for its sandy beaches and thatched houses. Here, you can indulge in hiking, beach activities and experiencing the unique island culture. They’re a little challenging to visit by public transport, but it’s possible by bus and ferry, from ports such as Norddeich or Dagebüll. Whether you drive or take the train finish your trip with a few days in Hamburg, a city teeming with maritime history and attractions. Let a travel agent help you with the planning, hotels, car rental and rail too because you’ll have the accountability and support that a travel professional can provide.

SCHEVENINGEN, THE HAGUE, NETHERLANDS

123RF

I’d love to explore more of northern Europe this summer with my family as a change from heading to the Med – I was thinking we could get the Eurostar then pick up a hire car and head to perhaps the coast of Holland and Germany, but I don’t really know where to begin. What would you suggest? We’re a fairly active family with two young teens. Mike O’Hagen

Melissa Tilling,

I was away on holiday in Peru when I was notified by the tour operator I was travelling with that they’d gone into administration, yet I still had various elements of my holiday to do, let alone get my return flight home. In this situation, what are my rights and what service should I expect to receive? Alice Goodlife

That must have been very stressful. I hope you booked through a travel agent and tour operator because your rights and expected services depend on how you booked your holiday. For UK travellers with an ATOL- (Air Travel Organisers’ Licensing) protected package, the Civil Aviation Authority should ensure you can complete your holiday and arrange your return flight. This protection prevents you from being stranded or facing financial loss due to the operator’s insolvency. Under EU Package Travel Regulations (which remains adopted legislation in the UK), similar protections apply, mandating tour operators to have insolvency measures for refunds and repatriation. Check too if your travel insurance covers the operator’s financial failure, which might cover additional costs or offer refunds for services not provided. If these protections don’t apply, contact your embassy or consulate for assistance, although they typically don’t cover travel costs. Should you need to self-arrange a return journey, paying by credit card offers potential recourse under the Consumer Credit Act’s Section 75, which might cover the costs. In essence, your protection hinges on your holiday’s booking details and any travel insurance you hold, highlighting the importance of understanding these aspects for such situations. Professional travel agents, like Charitable Travel, will support you to navigate this situation.

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Ten of the best

10 wellbeing

OF THE BEST HOLIDAYS TO BOOST YOUR

IN 2024

Start 2024 on the right note by booking one of these restorative trips to ease mind, body and soul By

Katja Gaskell

ellness means different things to different people. For some, it’s the chance to relax, unwind and be pampered in an all-inclusive resort. For others, it’s the opportunity to challenge themselves on a walking or running adventure, or get back to nature. So whether you’re looking for yoga and meditation or simply

14 JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2024

want to escape to a remote retreat, there’s a wellness holiday for everyone and we’ve rounded up here some of our favourites to boost your wellbeing in 2024. From skiing in Finnish Lapland and cycling among Sri Lankan tea plantations to wild swimming in crystal clear Austrian lakes and floating in the Dead Sea, simply choose which one is best for you and enjoy!

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Ten of the best

SIMONSIDE WAY

OUT ON THE LAKE IN SLOVENIA Most visitors to Slovenia hightail it straight to the glacial waters of Lake Bled, unaware that there’s a bigger – and arguably more beautiful – lake nearby. Framed by the rugged snow-capped peaks of the Julian Alps, and lined with secluded coves, Lake Bohinj is the largest natural lake in Slovenia. This corner of the Triglav National Park is the ideal destination for travellers looking to get off the beaten track. Walkers can discover the region’s wild beauty along the many marked lakeside or mountain trails with a guide and then paddle along the glassy lake waters by kayak or SUP.

16 JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2024

WALKING IN THE WILDS OF NORTHUMBERLAND Get lost in the wild and woolly beauty of Northumberland on a gentle guided walking holiday through some of the county’s most dramatic landscapes. Witness vast empty beaches, tweed-coloured hills, rolling moors and wooded dales on HF Holidays’ choice of differently graded walks. Highlights include spellbinding Alnwick Castle of Harry Potter fame and the cliff-top ruins of Dunstanburgh Castle – look out for fulmars, razorbills and kittiwakes nesting nearby. Pretty villages such as Craster – famous for its kippers – pepper the countryside offering the perfect backdrop for a holiday snap as well as delicious cream teas.

LAKE BOHINJ

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Ten of the best

ENGENHO LODGE AT IBITI

REMOTE RELAXATION IN A BRAZILIAN NATURE RESERVE Located in the heart of rural Minas Gerais and surrounded by rainforest, the unique Ibiti private reserve was started by Renato Machado as a passion project to build a greenbelt around the Ibitipoca State Park. Today, at the heart of the reserve, you will find Fazenda do Engenho, a low-key luxury lodge housed within a former farmhouse. Guests can explore the area on horseback, by bicycle or on two feet; relax with an outdoor yoga class; or watch a film on a giant outdoor screen in one of the most isolated and beautiful corners of Brazil.

Azure seas SPA TIME IN CANCUN It’s a quick transfer by private yacht across the sparkling Caribbean seas from Cancun to Isla Mujeres and Zoëtry Villa Rolandi. Tucked away on the western edge of the idyllic isle this perfectly formed allinclusive adults-only resort offers 35 rooms, a world-class spa and a private stretch of soft white sand backed by swaying palms. The Thalasso Spa includes multiday beauty and wellness programmes and a range of relaxing activities, including yoga and meditation. For a more local experience, take part in an ancient Mayan Temazcal ceremony led by a traditional Shaman. BOOKINGS@CHARITABLE.TRAVEL / RESERVATIONS: 020 3092 1288

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Ten of the best

Spa time BAG A WINTER WONDERLAND IN FINLAND Fall in love with Finland on a luxury ski and spa break north of the Arctic Circle and snuggle up at the Levi Hotel Spa. Chase the dancing northern lights, snowshoe through wooded dales, take a reindeer sleigh ride, and breathe in lungfuls of clean air in the happiest country in the world. Skiing in Finland is ideal for beginners and intermediates with wide, perfectly groomed fells and some of the best snow in the world. Post-ski, retreat to the hotel’s Spa Water World where 17 indoor and outdoor pools plus sauna, steam rooms and Jacuzzis will leave you feeling refreshed and rejuvenated.

THE LEVI HOTEL SPA

Hammersley Homes

Support for life for adults who struggle with enduring mental health challenges hammersleyhomes.org

onelottery Give yourself the chance to win a cash prize and book yourself an amazing Charitable Travel holiday adventurel 18 JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2024

(8) CHARITABLE V TRAVEL for charity, notfor profit

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Ten of the best SUN BUNYOLA

UTTER INDULGENCE IN MALLORCA Inspired by childhood holidays to Mallorca, Richard Branson has opened Sun Bunyola, his own sustainably-minded finca that sits sandwiched between the Mediterranean coastline and the protected Tramuntana mountains, amid 1,300 acres of citrus, almond and olive groves. Housed within a carefully converted 16th-century estate with its own domed defence tower, it’s home to 26 individually designed rooms, all stocked with Mallorca-made products. Activities here are endless, from hiking and biking trails to cooking classes, village tours, outdoor yoga classes and a weekly history walk.

WILD SWIMMING IN AUSTRIA Home to some 400 swimming lakes, Austria is not only one of the best places to go wild swimming in Europe, but its lakes are also among the cleanest. Located near Kitzbühel is Lake Schwarzsee, one of the region’s most picturesque lakes and the warmest – its mineral-rich emerald green waters can reach up to 27C during the summer months. Back on dry land, this sunny corner of Tirol is chock-full of activities. Hiking routes criss-cross the alpine meadows and mountains and the region is popular with cycling enthusiasts for both its gentle trails and challenging climbs. BOOKINGS@CHARITABLE.TRAVEL / RESERVATIONS: 020 3092 1288

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Ten of the best

PEDAL POWER IN SRI LANKA Ancient temples and legendary strongholds are a highlight of this two-week cycling adventure with Explore. The former Kingdom of Kandy and the hilltop fortress of Sigiriya both feature, but there’s so much more to this circular journey too, from golden beaches to leopards, elephants and whales. Discover the real Sri Lanka as you pedal along dirt back roads and through small villages. While much of the route is flat, there are steeper sections as you climb into the verdant central highlands, visiting the colonial hill city of Nuwara Eliya and stopping for tea at a traditional estate.

CYCLING THE BACKROADS

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Ten of the best

Run the sights

RUN YOUR WAY TO HAPPINESS IN GERMANY Berliners love to run. Germany’s capital is sprinkled with leafy parks, river pathways, lakeside trails and even an old airport runway where locals of all ages pound the pavement. It’s not surprising, then, that this dynamic city is home to one of the world’s best marathon routes. Join nearly 50,000 other runners (this year, on 29th September) as you set off across this dynamic city, taking in some of the best sights along the way including the Reichstag (left), Berlin Cathedral, Checkpoint Charlie and the Berlin Wall Memorial. Finish with a flourish as you run through Brandenburg Gate.

Book a fo three-n ur-star ig ht cit break t o Berlin y with Charita ble Trav el

from £955pp

Visit ch aritable .travel fo more in r formati on

LOSE YOURSELF IN JORDAN Discover the wonder of the Kingdom of Jordan on a bespoke tour with Regent Holidays that combines history, culture and adventure along with some of the country’s most storied walking trails. Visit desert castles and hilltop fortresses, wander the colonnaded streets of a preserved Roman city and discover the secret passageways within one of the Crusader castles. Stay overnight in a candle-lit eco-lodge, hike through fruit orchards along the Prophet’s Trail, and lose yourself in the Dana Nature reserve, where eagles soar above the cavernous gorges, before ending the journey with a relaxing float in the Dead Sea.

AMMAN, JORDAN

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HOW TO BE A

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December/January 2024 Issue 3

SNOW

Richard Hammond

Alternative winter sports How to travel overl and to Morocco The latest global news for greener travel

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ALTERNATIVE ATHEN S

Hundreds of us lined up on the bank of the marshes on a cold Sunday in the middle of January waiting to see the famous starling murmuration at Somerset’s Shapwick Heath National Nature Reserve in the heart of Somerset’s Avalon Marshes. We waited patiently, repeatedly looking out over the water as the sun dropped lower in the sky and the evening drew closer. Had we missed it? Had they moved to another location? You can never guarantee anything when wildlife is involved. Then a young girl tugged at her father’s coat and said, “Over there, Daddy, above the trees”. We all turned in unison to see thousands of starlings gathering into a cloud and swirling around, like shoals of fish turning together simultaneously against the pink-red sky. It was mesmerising. Witnessing the age-old roosting behaviour of thousands of starlings felt pretty special, yet epic wildlife displays like this are commonplace in the UK. Television series such as Spring Watch and Autumn Watch have helped raise the profile of local wildlife, capturing the imagination of young and old, and thanks to organisations such as the Wildlife Trusts, Natural England and the RSPB, British wildlife is now more accessible than ever. Just off the

22 JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2024

Pembrokeshire coast, Skomer Island and neighbouring Skokholm Island, for instance, are home to the world’s largest concentration of Manx shearwater (related to albatrosses), as well as the largest breeding puffin colony in southern Britain – a great way to see them is on an evening boat cruise from Martin’s Haven (pembrokeshire-islands.co.uk). In Scotland, a great place to see wildlife is at the Aigas Field Centre (aigas.co.uk) where you can stay in one of several lodges on a B&B basis and use it as a base to foray into the wildlife-rich outdoors. There are lots of wildlife hides and a network of nature trails around lochs and moorland, where you can see red squirrels, field voles, red and roe deers, slow worms and a variety of birds, including several birds of prey. If you’re looking for something more active, one of my favourite birdwatching trips is to go kayaking along the Ebro – Spain’s longest river, flowing 565 miles south from the Cantabrian Mountains to the Mediterranean at the shimmering delta south-west of Tarragona, Catalonia. I kayaked along a peaceful stretch of the river between Garcia and Móra d’Ebre with a guide from En Blau (enblau.cat) – a small, family-run outfit – where you may be treated to sightings of dazzling

MENU FROM SOMER SET

Jeff Bevan

Seeing wildlife in its natural habitat is one of the greatest yet simplest joys of travelling, . Yet you don’t need to says venture far to have a wildlife-friendly holiday, there are plenty of options on our doorsteps

tracks

Take the train to Europ e’s – it’s the low carbo ski resorts this winter n route to the slope s

WILDLIFE HERITAGE

blue-plumed kingfishers and house martins swooping around the Garcia bridge. We saw lots of moorhens and coots lurking in the reeds alongside the bank and several species of egret and herons, including the delicately pink squacco heron with milk-white underwings. Remember that with any interaction with nature, there’s a balance between marvelling at wildlife and not disturbing it, so that the experience is good for you and for nature. At the end of last year, Wildlife Heritage Areas launched. It’s a global benchmark organised by World Animal Protection and World Cetacean Alliance, working with a coalition of responsible travel businesses and wildlife charities to highlight responsible wildlife watching. There are currently eight Wildlife Heritage Areas including the Apennines Marsican Bear Heritage Area in Italy, the Madeira Whale Heritage Area in Portugal, and Whitsundays Whale Heritage Area in Australia. There are plans for many more areas globally so keep an eye out for more wonderful opportunities for well managed wildlife watching on its website: wildlifeheritageareas.org. Happy Green Travelling! Next issue: The joy of rail and sail

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NORTH-WEST ARKANSAS By Melissa Tilling

I’m in the north-west of Arkansas in the American South, and my trip starts in Rogers, a town of rail, apple and chicken history. Brick buildings line the streets and quaint shops evoke an era of timeless charm and Americana. Energy for the day comes courtesy of my new, truly sustainable, coffee heroes Jon and Andrea Allen, who roast ethically sourced coffee beans for their ONYX coffee Lab using solar power – it’s become a beacon for coffee aficionados. After breakfast, I immerse myself in the history of the region at the Rogers Historical Museum and the Daisy Airgun Museum.

n Ar t Crystal Bridges Museum of America

You’ll find plenty of historical landmarks, cultural institutions, natural wonders and eclectic dining

ONYX COFFEE

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FRIED CATFISH

Arkansas is perfect for an eco road trip with lots of EV charging points for electric-car rental

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synonymous with Rogers and Bentonville, and founder Sam Walton and his family have made an incredible impression through philanthropy and the economic growth of the area. The Walmart Museum Heritage Lab (while the Walmart

In nearby Bentonville, the Crystal Bridges Museum of American Art (founded by Alice Walton of Walmart family fame), merges art with the natural landscape. An architectural marvel, it houses five centuries of American art and contrasts well with the Museum of Native American History, which tells the rich stories of America’s First Nations. Everywhere I look a globally recognised brand is present. Most notable is Walmart, which is

Clinton House Museum

Museum is refurbished) is a fascinating story of the family and their company. Sadly, Sam has passed but he lives on in hologram form to narrate his story. Next we head south to Fayetteville. Its vibrant energy as a university town is unmissable, with a charming town square with shops and eateries, plus the Clinton House Museum (where Bill Clinton lived with Hillary). It tells the story of the 42nd President’s time here and his journey to the White House. To the east of Rogers and Fayetteville is the stunning Lake Atalanta and the Hobbs State Park Conservation Area, and the whole area is a cyclist and walkers heaven with hundreds of miles of marked trails to explore. I’ll definitely return for more.

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Jezael Melgoza at Unsplash

Get to know TOKYO Words by

Laura Gelder

TOKYO TOWER

What’s it all about?

The world’s largest city and Japan’s capital, megametropolis Tokyo is a mass of contradictions – from talking toilets to tranquil teahouses. Home to nearly 40 million people, it’s really a collection of cities, each home to a series of unique neighbourhoods. Experience the extremes and join a river of humanity under the glow of giant video screens as you tackle the world’s busiest crossing in Shibuya before exploring the Zen-like gardens surrounding the emperor’s Imperial Palace.

Get your bearings

Tokyo Sky Tree is Japan’s tallest building and offers a mind-blowing panorama 450 metres above the city. During the day: a never-ending steel and glass jungle with only the Christmas pudding of Mount Fuji indicating an edge. At night: a glittering carpet of lights that never switches off. For more charming, retro vibes, try the city’s original high point: Tokyo Tower. It’s only 250 metres to the top of this red and white Tour Eiffel-lookalike, but it still has killer views.

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Seek out the unique

KABUKICHO

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Tokyo is largely safe and spotless, but that doesn’t mean it has no edge. In the entertainment district of Kabukicho you’ll find a neon haze of host and hostess clubs where people pay for pleasant company; love hotels and soaplands, which go a bit further, and a lifesize model of Godzilla. In the electronic district of Akihabara, join the otaku (young people who prefer computer games to real life) in the anime stores or thundering video game arcades. And in Harajuku’s Takeshita street, teenagers dressed in wacky costumes jostle past cat cafes and ice cream parlours.

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Off-thebeaten-track neighbourhoods YANAKA Wind through atmospheric Yanaka Cemetery’s jumbled graves. Started in 1872, it’s the final resting place of Japan’s last Shogun. The traditional Yanaka Ginza shopping street has cute sake bars and shops selling art and handicrafts. SHIMOKITAZAWA This funky neighbourhood is crammed with shops selling vintage clothes, vinyl records and retro homeware, and quirky cafes and bars, such as basement rock music grotto, Mother’s Ruin. KICHIJOJI By Inokashira Park, where you can visit the Studio Ghibli Museum, this area is beloved for its food. Harmonica Yokocho was a flea market in the 1940s and is now home to myriad tiny eateries and bars.

Embrace tradition

GOLDEN GAI

Cross under the wooden torii gates of Shinto shrine Meiji Jingu and you enter the world of the kami (spirits). You’ll pass colourful barrels of sake – gifts to the gods – as you follow the treelined path. The sounds of the city are muffled and you’ll only hear the wind in the trees and the double clap of prayers. At the Buddhist temple of Sensoji, locals are dressed in their best kimonos among swirls of incense smoke. And in the gardens of Hama Rikyu, circled by skyscrapers, you can enjoy tea and cherry blossom views as they did in the Edo period.

Never go hungry or thirsty

Don’t miss Golden Gai, a dense pre-war pocket of low-lit alleys, stuffed with bars. Most are only big enough for five patrons and each has a vastly different vibe, from heavy metal to cheese and wine. All over Tokyo are Yokochos, alleyways of izakayas (Japan’s answer to a pub or tapas bar). At Yurakucho Yokocho, under rumbling train tracks, grab a stick of yakitori (grilled meat), fresh sushi or a steaming plate of takoyaki (octopus batter balls). Don’t know what or where to eat? Grab a bowl of ramen – bars are ubiquitous, open all hours and you usually order via a machine.

Japanophiles, head to any branch of Don Quijote, a store selling a mind-boggling smorgasbord of goods – from sex toys and chocolate, to slippers and mascara

Shop until you drop

From designer boutiques to thrift stores, Tokyo has it all. Pokemon fans will be in cute and furry heaven at the Pokémon Center Tokyo DX & Pokémon Cafe (reserve in advance for the latter). Wannabe chefs go to Kappabashi street in Asakusa to find everything from lacquer bento boxes to the fake plastic food that restaurants display. Designer junkies will love the slick boutiques and high-end malls of Ginza.

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France in focus

France

IN FOCUS Join us as we turn the spotlight on our closest neighbour, France, and its many wonders, from shining cities (Bordeaux, shown here) to peaceful countryside and striking coastlines

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France in focus

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rance is having a moment. A year-long moment, as 2024 is packed with big events and anniversaries. Top of the agenda is Paris hosting the Olympics and the Paralympics this summer, but also vying for attention is the 80th anniversary of the D-Day landings in Normandy and the 150th anniversary of the birth of the impressionist art movement. Expect a visual feast at every location that inspired this influential group – the port of Le Harve and the gardens of Giverny, both in Normandy, for Monet, the island of Chatou near Paris for Renoir (and others), and SainteVictoire mountain in Provence for Cézanne. But what of the rest of the country? France – the second most popular destination for Brits to visit on holiday after Spain – is over twice the size of the UK yet with a similarly sized population, so there's a lot of space to explore.

Avoid the millions queuing to climb the Eiffel Tower and instead consider visiting some of the lesser-well known corners of the country. Make the most of the €49 summer rail pass launching this year and travel to Nîmes to see Maison Carrée, a Roman temple built in the 1st century AD, or to Toulouse and the newly transformed Halles de la Cartoucherie full of local food suppliers. Try some slow tourism either cycling some of the country's 20,000km of cycle routes (the Vélodyssée, Vélomaritime and Loire a Vélo), navigating Europe's largest river network (no licence is required to rent a barge or houseboat), or following the nature trail on Ile St-Aubin to the north of Angers. Escape to national parks, mountains and forests – the newest addition is the Forêts National Park in Burgundy, home to 50 million trees and 200km of hiking trails. Turn the page to discover more of France this year.

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France in focus

Bordeaux

DOES IT BETTER Famed for its surrounding vineyards, Bordeaux has a prized eco consciousness and makes for a restorative weekend away, says

Rebecca Miles

“At Darwin, everything must be perfect,” says our Bordeaux guide Fred Bechir. It’s a high bar, but one that the urban enclave, and to an extent the whole city, seems happy to strive for. Voted the greenest city in France in 2023 by Le Parisien daily newspaper, Bordeaux’s mayor Pierre Hurmic says there’s still a long way for the city to go, but as a visitor for a long weekend, there are more than enough positive signs. We (my husband and seven-yearold daughter) arrive in Bordeaux by speedy TGV direct from Paris. The journey is just two hours and Bordeaux is the first stop. From the central train station, we hop on a tram and check into our hotel, the Grand Hôtel Français, 25 minutes later. The tram network makes it easy to get around the city and runs on green electricity, and Bordeaux 30 JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2024

has also had a self-service bike hire scheme, the V3, since 2010. Our hotel is one of several in the city with a Clef Verte (Green Key) label to mark its eco credentials. Yet the Grand Hôtel Français has been leading the way in Bordeaux – it obtained the European Ecolabel back in 2010, which its director, Julien Kiefer, says made it a pioneer.

WALK AND TALK

Set in an elegant building within the pedestrianised old quarter, it’s a convenient base moments from many of Bordeaux’s landmarks, including the Grand Théâtre and Porte Cailhau, an elaborate old city gate. While the hotel has plenty of green credentials making a difference behind the scenes, it’s at breakfast that we most notice its impact, with much of the buffet being organic and/or free trade.

Fuelled on pastries, yogurts, fruit and cold meats, we’re set for the day. When I last visited Bordeaux, it was a November 20 years ago with a couple of friends, and we spent most of our time eating and drinking in Bordeaux’s many, many wine bars and bistros. This time, it’s summer, and we’re here as a family, so we need to mix things up a bit, and our guide Fred does just that. Walking us round the city centre, he’s adept at sharing stories we all find interesting – be it the important role Bordeaux’s women played in the French Revolution (for me) or the secrets behind Bordeaux’s sweet cannelé treats (my daughter). And it’s how we find ourselves hanging out at Darwin, an urban ecosystem created in a former military barracks on the right bank at Bastide. In many ways, it is indeed ‘perfect’. Its large cafeteria, the Magasin Général,

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serves delicious pizzas and an eclectic menu of largely vegetarian and locally sourced food, and there’s an on-site bakery, skate park and chocolate factory. The whole concept is zero waste and minimal impact, so for example there isn’t any air-conditioning. Instead, good ventilation and seeking solace within the old stone walls provides some cool air, and we amuse ourselves with some old school entertainment, including table football, pinball and giant connect four over cold beers brewed on site. Much of Darwin’s profits are put

We see another side of Bordeaux on a fishing trip with Jean-Marie Hauchecorne, “the best fisherman in Bordeaux, because I’m the only fisherman in Bordeaux!” he jokes. Previously a CEO, he retrained four years ago as a freshwater fisherman and now spends his time tending to his shrimp pots sunk in the river and supplying Bordeaux's restaurants with sustainably-caught fish. Together with us and another French family, he takes us out in his tender to inspect the day’s catch of freshwater crevettes, eels and

We see another side of Bordeaux on a fishing trip with Jean-Marie Hauchecorne, "The best fisherman in Bordeaux, because I'm the only fisherman in Bordeaux!" he jokes towards supporting refugees and providing them with somewhere to live when they first arrive in France, which the team here are doing in the grounds by converting former camping chalets rescued from Cap Ferret into small homes and providing jobs in the kitchens.

catfish, which are all in abundance here. Despite this, there are strict regulations on eel fishing and he returns about 70 per cent of the eels he catches; the rest he can sell to local restaurants. For us passengers, he whips out a gas-powered camping grill

and throws on the crevettes, with some salt and foraged fennel. They char quickly, turning white, and he encourages us to eat them whole. The French family on board had the foresight to bring along a chilled bottle of white wine (and apple juice for the children), and Jean-Marie moors up in a shady spot under a bridge while we tuck in to the most sustainable and delicious snack going. While this trip to Bordeaux may be very different to my time here many years ago, we still manage to eat and drink well, and the restaurant scene is refreshingly contemporary. From the over 3,000 places to eat in the city, we opt for Restaurant le Ganache, Casa Gaïa and Darwin’s Magasin Général, with each serving its own take on seasonal, local produce. A highlight is the falafels in a nutty sauce at Casa Gaïa in the Chartrons area of Bordeaux, a maze of old streets full of food shops, bars and markets. While for my daughter's highlights, she’s very happy having a turn on the huge Ferris wheel in the Place des Quinconces, especially at night with the lights twinkling across the city, and splashing in the vast Miroir d’Eau, a shimmering pool of water fountains on the riverbank at Place de la Bourse. It turns out Fred wasn’t just right about Darwin being perfect, the whole city is spot on for us.

PLACE DU PALAIS

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France in focus

VIVE

la Vilaine A boat trip through Brittany delivers more than just memories for Whiling away the hours on Brittany’s River Vilaine with my partner last June was utter bliss. As we watched the bird life flap among the verdant banks and the lily pads float on the water from the deck of our two-cabin Corvette boat hired from Le Boat, life couldn’t have been simpler, and it was just what we needed to reconnect, both with each other and with nature. Brittany has long held a special place in my heart – I first visited as a shy, awkward 13-year-old on a school exchange trip. I’d been studying French for less than a year so it seems a little crazy now that we were sent off to stay with French families for a week, but I found my Welsh helpful in filling in some of the blanks with my exchange partner’s maman, as she spoke Breton, a Celtic language 32 JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2024

that’s still spoken by around 20 per cent of Brittany’s population today. I still remember the decadence of dipping my baguette into a deep bowl of sweet, steaming hot chocolate – and I still have the bowl. That trip was the start of my passion for travel and being immersed in new culture, foods and history.

Ali Nicholls

we have visited many times and I adore exploring this area with its stunning coastline. The region is known as Côtes d’Armor, from the French côtes meaning coast and ar mor is the sea in Breton (and Welsh, incidentally). Over the years we have walked along many of the incredible beaches in all seasons and I never

After a tough nine months caring for my elderly in-laws, we decided to further indulge our love of water and booked a trip with Le Boat to explore more waterways My partner’s parents retired from the UK to a beautiful area near Saint Malo 10 years ago, so

tire of revisiting our favourites – Saint Lunaire, Lancieux, Saint Briac sur Mer, Saint Cast le Guildo BOOKINGS@CHARITABLE.TRAVEL / RESERVATIONS: 020 3092 1288

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France in focus

– and the most local to our house is the wonderful Saint Jacut de la Mer, a quaint village with seven beautiful sandy coves. When we’re not walking on the beach we like to visit the town of Dinan, on the River Rance. Filled with medieval architecture and narrow cobbled streets, we meander down the steep hill to the harbour (imagining the effort it took to bring the supplies up the hill from the docked boats hundreds of years ago), and either relax in one of the waterfront cafes or hire an electric boat or canoe and mess around on the water.

RESET AND RESTORE

So after a tough nine months caring for my elderly in-laws, we decided to further indulge our love of water and booked a trip with Le Boat to explore more of the French waterways. From its base in Messac, just south of Rennes on the River Vilaine, we met the fabulous Francois and Laetitia and their team, who helped us settle into what would be our floating home for the next three nights. Francois joined us to the first lock to show us the ropes both literally

and figuratively, then we were on our own with only the birds and riverside creatures for company. Our goal was to reach La Gacilly, approximately 25 kilometres to the west, as we’d only have to pass through six locks, all of which were either automatic or manned (by friendly lock keepers). This stretch of water was wonderfully quiet and spending our evenings on deck playing card games in the yellow glow of the lamps and candles was just what we needed to switch off from the world. La Gacilly was a delightful town to turn around at. In June, it was bursting with flowers, and is home to many studios and workshops. Painters, sculptors, glass workers, jewellers and more display their wares along the streets, alongside France’s largest photography festival, which takes place annually f rom June to September. Created in 2004, it’s grown to welcome photographers f rom around the world displaying over 800 images, last year on the theme of nature’s legacy. La Gacilly and this trip will always hold special memories for me for an entirely more personal reason,

Surpr ise!

as it was on this magical boating holiday that Tim proposed to me. Thanks to being on the water, we found a connection to nature and deepened our connection to each other. We laughed through sunshine and rain and at my many mishaps of my prowess as a deck hand being a little lacking. I mean, who jumps off the boat without taking the rope with them, overpowers their jump to almost land in the water the other side of the pontoon, or fails to save the boat hook falling off the deck? Despite, or perhaps because of these mishaps, we can’t wait to book again and explore one of Le Boat’s six other itineraries in Brittany. I’m smitten. BOOKINGS@CHARITABLE.TRAVEL / RESERVATIONS: 020 3092 1288

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France in focus

Gliding

ON THE GARONNE Boating through the Aquitaine region is the most idyllic of family adventures for

Rebecca Miles

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“What’s ricochet mean mummy?” asks my seven-year-old daughter, as we bounce our boat into the lock, frantically turning the steering wheel and grateful for the large fenders protecting the worst of our blushes. It’s a good question; so far our line along the Canal de Garonne has been decidedly zig-zagged as we’ve try to get to grips with our hired floating home. We – my husband Jon, daughter Evie and I – have hired a Cirrus B cruiser for three nights from Le Boat’s base at Le Mas d’Agenais, an hour’s drive south-east of Bordeaux in the Aquitaine region of France. It’s on the Canal de Garonne, which extends down to Toulouse where it becomes the more famous Canal de Midi – on this stretch it’s blissfully quiet with only the odd fisherman or cyclist around to witness our ineptitude. Our Cirrus, a double cabin fourberth boat is, at 8.8m-long, the

shortest boat in Le Boat’s fleet. Watching a fellow renter in a five-cabin Horizon try to execute a three-point turn that becomes a 10-point turn at the base, we’re very happy with our choice. We’d been enlightened on the Cirrus’ nifty manoeuvrability, despite its sensitive steering, during our hour-long check-in with Francois and Philippe, two of Le Boat’s technicians. It was a relief to run through so thoroughly all we needed to know to not just live on the boat but drive it too, as en route to the base my husband and I both confessed to feeling a little nervous about being responsible for driving, docking, cooking and sleeping on a boat, something neither of us had done before. Living near a canal, we’re both fascinated by life on the water and Le Boat’s assurances that no experience was needed to pilot one swayed us. The idea of gently cruising through the vineyard-

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heavy French countryside of one of the country’s most gastronomic regions seemed like the most blissful of ways to spend the last few days of the summer holidays, and we knew Evie would find life afloat fascinating too. All Le Boat’s customers are given a detailed map of the waterway before they set off (as well as THE GARONNE CANAL

France in focus

lots of other useful information), and Francois talked us through an itinerary for our three days afloat. Speed is limited to 8 knots on the canal – or about 14km/h, not accounting for navigating the many locks – so we knew we weren’t going to cover a huge distance, but he gave us two aims: a weekly night market with lots of local producers at Meilhan-sur-Garonne; and a highly recommended restaurant at the head of the canal, Ecluse 52. A third aim was in the back of my mind – we had a train home to catch at 10am on the final day, so we had to be back at the marina base the night before in order to make that. I’m surprised by how much water we cover, and we make it to Meilhan-sur-Garonne in about four hours, feeling a bit giddy that we’ve been let loose and no one’s fallen in. Choosing to moor in a small marina on our first night, rather than tying up anywhere along the banks as is permitted, we’re guided into our berth by a friendly pair of retired teachers from Wales, who are crisscrossing France in their smartly restored

on the canal-side terrace. The food is worth the journey, and the threecourse set menu at €18, including salmon risotto and a chocolate crème anglaise, is a steal.

GETTING THE HANG OF IT

That evening, we tie up alongside the bank opposite the village church at Fontet. Each boat comes with two long metal stakes and a mallet, and we simply hammer them into the ground and tie the fore and aft ropes round, as Phillippe showed us. Triple checking they’re secure, we relax for a peaceful night afloat. And the ricocheting? It soon eases and we find ourselves looking forward to negotiating the locks. On the Canal de Garonne, they’re now automatic – there’s

no longer the demand for lock keepers to guard each lock (how I’d love to buy one of those shuttered-up pastel-coloured lock keepers’ cottages). After Philippe helps us through the first lock next to the base before leaving us to fend for ourselves, we get the hang of activating the lock, running the lines around the mooring posts and pressing a button to open the gates. We may only be afloat for three nights but the slow pace of life is addictive. Walking between the canal and the vineyards, under the dappled shade of the cedar trees with crickets and butterflies fluttering around my feet and the scent of camomile wafting around, I think I could get used to this way of life.

I'm surprised by how much water we cover and we make it to Meilhan-sur-Garonne in about four hours, feeling a bit giddy that we've been let loose and no one's fallen in Dutch barge. The sun has set by the time we climb up into the village, and the market is decorated with long strings of festoon lights. Farmers are cooking lamb chops, duck breast and plenty more, wine makers are selling by the glass or bottle, and long tables are filled with people of every age enjoying a late summer evening while a band plays on a makeshift stage in the back of a lorry. The following day, we set our sights on lunch at Ecluse 52, 18 kilometres away, and make it in time to grab one of their last tables surrounded by bright geraniums 36 JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2024

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A WONDERLAND OF

water sports

Normandy’s coastline cleverly combines its World War II history with some surprising activities, says

Rebecca Miles

The situation takes a moment or two to dawn on me. What’s been described as a sea walk is literally that, a walk, in the sea – not next to the sea along the cliff tops or by the beach, but actually in the water, walking. In the beach-side changing hutcum-club room of the Marche Aquatique Dieppoise, we don swimsuits and wet shoes and march down the pebbly beach. At about 5pm on a slightly overcast September afternoon, the English Channel doesn’t look that inviting and I wish I had a wet suit on. But Francoise, with her friends and fellow club members Patrice and Jean-Luc, are in their 60s and just in their swimmers and rash vests,

so I don’t want to be put to shame. I take a deep breath and wade in. The chill brings me out in goosebumps but seeing the joy spreading across the rest of the group’s faces convinces me to continue; once the water is up to my waist it’s okay, and I remember to breathe again. Francoise says it’s best to have the water level between our belly buttons and our nipples and to be walking on sand rather than pebbles, so that’s why, considering today’s tides, we’re walking in the late afternoon.

SOCIALISING IN THE SEA

Francoise runs us through some warm-up stretches, demonstrates the ideal technique for walking

through the water (leaning forward and leading with our knees), and we set off, walking parallel to the shore. The club is one of several that have opened along the Normandy coastline, and really took off during Covid as a legitimate social activity. They meet several times a week throughout the year and guests are always welcome; the New Year’s Day walk has become a high point of the local social calendar. I’m here in Normandy to experience the huge variety of water sports that are available to holidaymakers along a stretch of coastline that is rightly more famously known for the D-Day landings (of which it's the 80th

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anniversary this year). And while there are many poignant reminders and commemorations to WWII, Normandy is also a place of hope, beauty and tranquility. To demonstrate how easy it is to reach this haven without flying, we take the four-hour DFDS ferry crossing as foot passengers from Newhaven to Dieppe, where we collect a hire car and stay overnight at the harbour-front La Tour aux Crabes Hotel and Spa. Towards the eastern end of Normandy’s nearly 400 miles of coastline, Dieppe, with its four ports and long stretch of beach, is a welcome gateway. Here, the coastline has lots of white-chalk cliffs and dramatic headlands, under which we have a sunrise stand-up paddleboarding session at Pourville-sur-Mer the following day. Vincent, the owner of Surf’In Pourville, takes us out to sea, but it’s also possible to head inland for a more gentle adventure on the river Scie.

Practical support, training, and advice to challenge bullying and protect young lives.

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As we travel further west along the coast, passing Honfleur and Deauville, the beaches become more expansive and around Arromanches, famous for its role in the D-Day landings, conditions are perfect for some land sailing. Members of the Asnelles nautical club, to the west of Arromanches, regularly take to the hard-packed sands in these one-man sailing dinghies on wheels. Our instructor, Helene, later reveals she’s European Champion so my speeds of 30km/hr or so are snails’ pace in comparison. Yet it’s exhilarating and easier to grasp the basics of than it looks, thanks to using your feet to steer, and tightening or loosening the main sail’s rope to gain speed or slow down, and our two-hour taster session whizzes past. As we race back down the beach, out at sea are the remains of the Mulberry harbour, a five-mile long semicircular port that was

hastily constructed in eight days for the D-Day landings. Much of its concrete mullions still remain, and it’s staggering to think that 2.5 million men, 500,000 vehicles and four million tonnes of supplies arrived via what was supposed to be only a temporary harbour.

Barneville-Car teret

A SPECTACULAR COAST

The Normandy coastline keeps surprising me with its beauty, yet on reflection its topography mirrors that of England’s south coast. Starting with the chalk cliffs in Dieppe or Dover, we’ve since headed west to huge sandy beaches of Arromanches or Camber, and now, over on the west coast facing the Channel Islands, we’re on the broad sweeping dunes and beaches of Surtainville and Cartaret, or Devon and Cornwall. It’s here at the Plage d’Hatainville that the Vana Surf School operates

The coastline has lots of white-chalk cliffs and dramatic headlands, under which we have a sunrise stand-up paddleboarding session at Pourville-sur-Mer out of a truck in the car park. Normandy’s best kept secret, this stretch of sand is a surfing paradise but with far less intense waves than those further down the Atlantic coast near Biarritz. Regular, even waves keep rolling in and on an initiation lesson from Conrad, where he quickly gets us in the water, rather than delving into too much theory on the beach, I manage to stand on the board and ride a wave or two in. This beach is round the corner from the huge dunes and busy pleasure harbour (with a welcoming sailing club) of Barneville-Carteret, and we celebrate our various sporting achievements with a beach-front lunch at La Potinière. With the sun sparkling off the sea and the golden sand stretching for miles, it’s another surprise from Normandy, on a coastline that just keeps on giving and giving.

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SUSTAINABLE CARIBBEAN Tourism is one of the Caribbean’s major economic sectors - so much so that in 2022 the WTTC found that, globally, the Caribbean is most reliant on travel and tourism. During the pandemic we saw the effects of a decline in tourism when its contribution to GDP dropped a staggering 58%, higher than the global average, and resulted in the loss of 680,000 travel and tourism jobs equating to almost a quarter of all jobs. With tourism such an integral part of the region’s economic stability, it’s essential to protect both the natural resources and the futures of the people in these countries. We need to head to their shores and support them, so let us help you make your next trip there as sustainable as possible. READ NOW

SUSTAINABLE FLORIDA When talking about sustainable travel and Florida there’s an elephant in the room: the only way for us Brits to reach the State is by aeroplane, and aviation’s impact on the climate is well reported and discussed. However, beyond environmental protection, talk around sustainability must also factor in social equity and economic viability. Should the restorative joy of travel and the mind-broadening benefits of being exposed to other people, places and cultures, as well as the employment and living standards that are elevated by tourism arrivals globally encourage you to still make that journey, this Sustainable Florida Supplement is here to help you consider how to make your next trip to the Sunshine State as sustainable as it can be. READ NOW

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The streets of Naples, with laundry hanging from each balcony, are so narrow your neighbour could easily take your washing in. I’m so pleased to see this hasn’t changed since I last visited when I was Inter-railing around Italy between school and university (a little while ago now!). Naples is a city steeped in history but while it certainly felt more modern this time, it’s just as lively and vibrant as I remember it. Naples is the home of the thin crust Margherita pizza and as a dedicated pizza lover I’m not disappointed when I order the classic with buffalo mozzarella at Gaetano Adamo (on Corso Giuseppe Garibaldi). It’s possibly the best pizza I’ve ever had. The next evening, we eat at Baccalaria on Piazzetta di Porto. It’s known as the temple of cod and good eating, and serves salt cod in dishes that are out of this world. I’m eating a lot of seafood on this trip, not just at restaurants like Baccalaria but also at local little fish’n’chip-style places too. Via San Gregorio Armeno

over Italy isc

NAPLES

charitable

avel .tr

Postcard from

By Heidi Roberts is also known as Via dei Presepi, and is famous for its many artisan shops that specialise in creating presepi, or nativity scenes. St. Francis of Assisi is credited with creating the first nativity scene in 1223 in the town of Greccio, Lazio, but it was in Naples between the 1500s and 1700s that

The Bay of Naples

Pompeii and Mount Vesuvius are a short train ride from Naples, or you can join a tour

The original!

Via dei P resepi

Sfogliatella is a crescent-shaped flaky pastry filled with custard and enjoyed with a shot of espresso

NATIVITY SCENES

the craftsmanship really took off. They’re not only a religious symbol but also a form of art and cultural expression that hold deep significance for many Italian families, and I’m amazed at how diverse they are, from the very traditional to the very modern or upbeat. In Naples, many of the homes and hotels are hidden behind large wooden doors. My hotel, the Domus Deorum De Luxe (on Piazza Principe Umberto, a short walk from the main train station), is a fine example – behind its nondescript front door is an exquisitely well-run B&B with just four bedrooms and a delightful roomservice breakfast of pastries and fresh fruit.

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Get to know ECUADOR By

Mark Stratton

AMAZON RIVE

R CRUISE

What’s it all about?

Ecuador is one of nature’s most biologicallyrich nations with biomes ranging from the Galapagos and Amazonia to Andean mountains and fiery volcanoes. Yet it’s a tiny country that packs a punch, meaning journeys between its attractions are never long. On a recent trip I arrived in its Andean capital, Quito, and a 25-minute flight later, I was in the Amazon basin to begin a spectacular rainforest river voyage.

Amazon adventures

Ecuador hosts only 2% of the Amazon and I would say its finest river trip is the Rio Napo tributary towards the Peruvian border. Captain Raul Garcia is a legend on this stretch, his company Anakonda Amazon Cruises supports the indigenous Kichwa through community tourism. The Kichwa will guide you to see river otters, macaws, and the world’s tiniest monkey, pygmy marmosets. The Kichwa make beautiful handicrafts for tourists, which help to empower women financially in these marginalised communities.

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Classical Quito

QUITO

42 JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2024

The impact conquistadors had upon indigenous communities when they arrived in 1531 was culturally disastrous. Yet they bequeathed high-altitude Quito a sumptuous baroque architecture. Stay close to the two most classical squares, Plazas de la Independencia and Grande, and lose yourself on foot amid museums, convents, churches and palaces. At sundown join Quiteños congregating at Plaza Grande to meet friends and family.

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Hacienda del Condor

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vel tra e.

Of Ecuador’s hacienda accommodation, my favourite is Zuleta – a shining advocate of community responsibility and conservation. Zuleta’s Jesuit origins date back to 1691 and it has been in the Plaza Lasso family since 1898. Still a working dairy farm, it offers luxurious classically furnished rooms and visits to their foundation’s good works, not least an ambitious project to captive-rear and save Ecuadorian condors. These critically-endangered behemoths currently number a parlous 150 across Ecuador.

And another thing.. so many soups, which should I try? HOW MANY? Almost incalculable as every time I open an Ecuadorian menu a new variety is listed. They can be light and summery, health-giving broths, winter warmers, or possess religious connotations. WHICH ARE POPULAR? Locro de papa is a mainstay – thick potato and cheese for chilly Andean days, while during Holy Week’s fasting, you’ll find Fanesca made with salted cod.

CONDOR

ZULETA HACIENDA

The use of cocoa here dates to 3,300BC. Nowadays Ecuadorian chocolate production is taking the global market by storm, producing it bean-to-bar to ensure greater profit stays within the country

In the clouds

Cloud forests cling to Ecuador’s mountaintops like damp hair to skin after a shower. Their biodiversity is hugely exotic – expect iridescent butterflies and hummingbirds. A decade ago, I ventured to Bellavista Cloud Forest Lodge to watch a newly discovered furry mammal, an olinguito, emerge from the lichen festooned canopy. I also love the unforgettable Mashpi Lodge, who protect one of the Earth’s great green lungs – the Andean Choco.

I’LL SKIP THE SOUP… Then try bolon de verde, meat-stuffed green plantain dumplings, but pet lovers might assiduously avoid cuy asado – roasted guinea pig.

CAYEMBE VOLCANO

COCOA POD

Ecuador’s blast furnaces

Brimstone and fire reigns across this volcanic nation. The most colossal cone of four currently active volcanoes is the 5,897m-high Cotopaxi, currently puffing ash like smoke from a Cuban cigar. Arguably the most striking is the 5,000m-plus Cayambe, in the Avenue of Volcanoes. From the unique páramo montane habitat surrounding it in breathless altitude I recently watched the clouds part to reveal the volcano’s glaciated summit shimmering in the equatorial sunshine.

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DREAMS DOMINICUS LA ROMANA, DOMINICAN REPUBLIC Dreams Dominicus La Romana, set just 20 minutes from La Romana International Airport, beckons with its prime location on the picturesque Bayahibe Beach. Whether you’re exploring the region, trying scuba diving, enjoying family activities, or just relaxing in your luxury suite, this resort offers a diverse range of activities and amenities, making it an ideal destination for a varied and memorable holiday. Experience worry-free holidays with the family-friendly Explorer’s Club, teen-friendly Core Zone activities and PADI-certified diving. And with AAA Four Diamond status, Unlimited-Luxury perks are promised, including limitless access to gourmet à la carte dining, top-shelf spirits, and endless daytime activities and nightly entertainment. Revel in the convenience of nearly 20 bars and restaurants, before retreating to the luxurious suites, equipped with connecting rooms, 24-hour room service, free Wi-Fi, and a host of other amenities. Your ideal escape awaits at this beach-front gem.

Unlimited Luxury® for the discerning traveller 488 guestrooms and suites Dreams Spa by Pevonia® 10 dining experiences Four swimming pools Two hot tubs 17 bars and restaurants 24-hour gourmet room service Unlimited dining and drinks Free Wi-Fi Endless entertainment Enriching activities Ping pong and giant chess board Beach and pool volleyball Tours and excursions* Kids Clubs – video games, crafts, camping etc. Snorkelling Non-motorised water sports Scuba diving tour and deep-sea fishing* PADI diving centre* Boat and fishing excursions* Big screen movies on the beach Live musical performances Theme nights and beach parties Spectacular shows Dance and Spanish classes Spa treatments Fitness – treadmills, weights, exercise bicycles etc. *additional costs apply BOOKINGS@CHARITABLE.TRAVEL / RESERVATIONS: 020 3092 1288

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La dolce vita in the Dominican Kaury Pimentel,

Charitable Traveller talks to Dominicus La Romana’s social media manager, about why she loves the resort so much What attracted you to working at the Dominicus La Romana? KP I’ve always been passionate about tourism and helping to promote the beauty of my country, but what drew me to wanting to work at the Dominicus La Romana in the beautiful Bayahibe area was because the hotel attracts so many people from different countries. It’s especially strong with the UK and European audience due to the Italian-inspired influence in the resort.

warmth of our people, and the good service our staff offer, always with a smile to make guests feel at home.

What do your guests like most when they’re staying with you? KP They love our beach, our infrastructure and our food and drink, but really the main feature that our guests highlight is the

The hotel is committed to preserving the environment, can you tell me what that looks like for guests? KP We carry out a range of initiatives, from properly sorting

How does the Italian-inspired architecture influence the atmosphere of the hotel? KP It provides a certain warmth that’s hard to put your finger on but we’d be lost without. This, combined with the positive approach of our team of staff, creates the ideal atmosphere for a wonderful stay.

the waste to making sure energy isn’t being used unnecessarily when a room is unoccupied, as well as regular beach cleans. We run these regardless of whether guests wish to take part or not, simply so we can raise awareness about the importance of taking care of our beaches. In addition, we are Blue Flag-certified, and the accreditation is visible in several areas of the resort. Lastly, where’s your favourite part of the hotel, and why? KP My favourite part of Dreams Dominicus La Romana is our pier. It has the most beautiful view of our beautiful turquoise-sea beach; it’s a space with a unique magic and a great place to have a wedding!

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Sustainable Journeys

JOIN US ON OUR

sustainable journey Answering customer demand, Charitable Travel has launched a tour operator that puts sustainable travel front and centre. To share with us what this means for your next holiday, we quizzed its CEO and founder,

Melissa Tilling

What is Sustainable Journeys? We are a community-driven media company and tour operator seeking to offer incredible travel experiences for individuals, friends, couples, and families, while working hard to overcome the lack of clarity among most UK travellers about how to holiday more sustainably. Our goal is to curate and create itineraries for a growing array of destinations, researched by us. We want to increase the opportunity to travel, stay, and experience in ways that are environmentally, socially, and economically sustainable, maximising positive outcomes and minimising the negative effects of tourism. Our ethos is guided by the United Nations World Tourism Organization’s definition of sustainable tourism. Where did the inspiration come for creating Sustainable Journeys? We are a new key part of Charitable Travel. As a social enterprise travel company our DNA has always been to drive community 46 JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2024

benefit from the holidays we offer customers. Since we launched in early 2020 our mission has been to promote #travelforgood and better the outcome of holidays sold, to the benefit of good causes – where our customers donate 5% of their holiday price to the charity of their choice. Through our magazine Charitable Traveller and the holidays we offer we have increased the range of sustainable travel available but, as a travel agent, we were hindered by the lack of tour operators focused on creating these holidays with a sustainable focus. We conducted a large consumer survey last year and found 62% of those polled wanted to be more sustainable, but only 17% of the respondents said they knew where to find holidays made sustainably. The need and opportunity to make a sustainable difference is our inspiration. How is Sustainable Journeys different to other tour operators? We are not driven just by the places

we offer as journeys; we are driven by the opportunity to create and offer fantastic holidays wherever they may be, where sustainability is ‘baked in’. For us sustainability is not an afterthought, it is central to our being and ethos. We are pragmatic and honest when we offer our journeys; if elements are not sustainable we will say that, and why. For example, there might be a tremendous social and economic sustainable tourism benefit for the people of a particular place but reaching that place might involve a diesel truck. We will share that dichotomy and let our customers make an informed decision. Our customer has the ultimate choice. What are the benefits to consumers of booking with Sustainable Journeys? We offer customers our expertise in both the destinations and the sustainability of the journeys we share. We give the assurance of careful curation, so that what we’re offering is conscious of being sustainable, and why. In addition to our ethos, any customer booking a package with us has the protection of the ATOL scheme, ensuring monies paid are safe and secure. We also operate a trust account, meaning money paid to us is out of our reach until all the partners have been paid, and offer ABTA

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To find out more about visit sustainablejourneys.co.uk

protection for land and rail-inclusive packages too. Is flying off limits if customers book with Sustainable Journeys? Flying is not off limits. We seek to make incremental change rather than expect a zero-carbon panacea, despite the climate emergency. For Europe we will always offer a rail option from London St. Pancras International. If flying, we only actively offer economy class, nonstop flights and seek out the most efficient aircraft to offer (while realising what you fly on the day is not guaranteed) to minimise the carbon emissions impact.

in the destinations we offer. Our criteria, aside from a high level of customer care, professionalism, and competitiveness, is unsurprisingly a great understanding and focus on sustainable tourism in the destination; we work with partners who are actually being sustainable, not just saying they are. The proof is in the journeys we create. If a customer has additional needs, what do you offer to accommodate them? We like to think our journeys are perfect but respect that our customers may want to further tailor their holiday plans. This is

We offer customers our expertise in both the destinations and the sustainability of the journeys we share, and we give the assurance of careful curation Sustainable tourism is multifaceted and there are arguments for the economic and social benefits of tourism that for some justify the flight. Who are you working with to fulfil Sustainable Journeys’ holidays? We hand-pick our local partners

absolutely fine and we will work with our customers and local partners, within the bounds of our sustainable tourism ethos, to create the right itinerary. If our customer has any needs in terms of vulnerability, accessibility, or specific requirements we will sensitively plan accordingly. Sustainable tourism is

centred on making travel right for both the visitor and the people of the destination, and this is core to our focus. As a new business, what challenges are you facing? Our biggest challenge is creating customer awareness of what we are doing. Only 17% of UK consumers in the survey I mentioned earlier knew where to find a sustainable holiday. Our goal is to close the gap between the desire to be sustainable and the action taken to actually book travel in a sustainable way. The easier we can make being sustainable the more people will take those incremental steps on the journey to a day when all holidays will be made the way we make them. Lastly, where’s on your wish list for 2024? We want to add at least ten more places to our growing list of journeys to provide even more ways to holiday sustainably. So far we have The Baltics, West Sweden, Finland, Switzerland, Spain, New York State with more in the pipeline. The more we add the more impactful we will become.

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Sustainable Journeys

The Baltics BY ELECTRIC CAR Giving a taster of what a Sustainable Journey can be, here’s an itinerary for a 12-day adventure through Estonia, Latvia and Lithuania

The Baltic region, comprising Estonia, Latvia, and Lithuania, offers a rich tapestry of culture, nature, history, and unique experiences for travellers seeking a distinctive European adventure, the Baltics have something to offer everyone and truly is a unique and captivating destination with several compelling reasons to visit. On this Journey, we will bring you the sights and sounds of the pristine landscapes, the beautiful Baltic Sea coastline and wonderful medieval Old Towns. Get ready to explore the region’s influences from various empires, such as the Hanseatic League, Teutonic Knights, and the Soviet Union, making it a fascinating melting pot of cultures and traditions. Embark on this 12-day Sustainable Journey through the Baltics to discover lesser-known destinations and support local communities along the way. Begin in Vilnius, Lithuania (pictured above), with an electric car rental, discovering the city’s rich history and architecture. Travel through Aukstaitija National Park, visiting Kernavė, Dubingiai, Labanoras, and Palūšė, staying in locally-owned accommodations. Explore Gauja National Park in Latvia, with stops in Cēsis and Valmiera. Cross the border into Estonia, discovering the Setooma Ethnic Region, Tartu, and the Onion Route. Experience Lahemaa National Park before concluding the journey in Tallinn. This sustainable tour includes eco-friendly accommodations, locally-sourced food, and promotes responsible tourism practices. 48 JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2024

What’s Included? 11 nights in three- to four-star accommodation with breakfast in small locally owned hotels and guesthouses Ethnocosmology museum visit and guided tour Ancient beekeeping museum visit and honey tasting Riga farmers market visit and food tasting Brewery tour and tasting in Valmiera In Setomaa cultural education about Seto national costume Onion farm visit Electric car rental National Park fees Car rental one-way fee (pick up in Vilnius, drop off in Tallinn)

Read the full itinerary, discover its sustainable credentials and book this trip at

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‘Arts of Survival’ is the theme for Tartu and the Southern Estonia region as it gears up to be the European Capital of Culture in 2024. “The Arts of Survival are interpreted by fields of culture, from folk and food culture to music, film and visual art,” said Kati Torp, Tartu 2024 artistic director.

“The role and meaning of the theme Arts of Survival has changed,” says Torp. “The last few years in particular have taught us a great deal about the importance for the need to adapt to survive. We live at a time when European cooperation, solidarity and democracy are critical to the survival of culture.”

Four views of

TARTU

The programme is packed with events that highlight how diverse, inclusive and inventive the region is, and includes the Washing Machine Made of Beetroot. This eight-month long exhibition celebrates the ingenuity of the garage culture of repairing and home-building vehicles, recycling and DIY-mentality that was sparked during a time of deprivation in the Soviet era.

As the European Capital of Culture for 2024, Tartu in Estonia is hosting over 1,000 events across the year

Naked Truth, a festival all about the sauna, a fundamental part of Estonian life, promises to be a highlight. In the sauna, secrets are shared, business matters resolved and the world set to rights. Another must-see is Kissing Tartu, a major concert with an unprecedented simultaneous kissing event in the town hall square. It’ll celebrate not just romantic kisses, but platonic and familial signs of affection too.

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TO DO IN PERTH

Lauren Jarvis

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Western Australia’s cosmopolitan capital, Perth, is the perfect place to kick off your antipodean adventure, with some of the country’s best beaches fringing hip neighbourhoods, overflowing with world-class cuisine, craft beers and wines. Beyond, untouched islands and ancient forests await, offering wild encounters and much-needed space to breathe and dream… EXPLORE THE NEIGHBOURHOODS The international gateway to Western Australia, Perth is home to exciting museums, galleries and eateries, while some of the country’s most spectacular natural landscapes lie on its doorstep. With more hours of sunshine than any other Australian city, and an average yearly temperature of 23ºC, Perth’s beautiful urban beaches, Kings Park and Swan River, are a major draw, while at night, the restaurants, bars and craft breweries of local neighbourhoods including Northbridge, Mount Lawley and North Perth are buzzing.

lash Jonas Von Werne at Unsp

5 of the best things

TAKE A ROAD TRIP TO MARGARET RIVER Just three hours from Perth, Margaret River combines award-winning vineyards with golden surf beaches, ancient forests and soaring sea cliffs. The traditional land of the Wadandi (Saltwater) People, a tour with Koomal Dreaming offers a deep-dive into the region’s Aboriginal culture. Wine and adventure lovers can combine their two passions on an expedition with The Margaret River Discovery Co, which includes a canoe along the river, lunch at Fraser Gallop Estate winery and a hike along the spectacular Cape to Cape Track.

HANG OUT IN HISTORIC FREMANTLE Once you’ve explored Perth’s modern metropolis, head to the historic port-city of Fremantle for a meander through its UNESCO World Heritage-listed streets and century-old markets. There’s always something happening in this thriving cultural hub, from free open-air concerts and street art, to comedy shows and indigenous performances. Watch the world go by from a café on buzzy Cappuccino Strip, enjoy sunset over the ocean from Bathers Beach House, or join a spooky torchlight tour of Fremantle Prison.

SAY ‘G’DAY’ TO A QUOKKA Australia is home to incredible, unique wildlife, and on Wadjemup or Rottnest Island, visitors will soon be making friends with some of the country’s cutest critters: quokkas. These gentle marsupials are found across the island, which is reached on a short ferry or plane ride from Perth. With few motorised vehicles, the island’s beautiful beaches and bays are best explored by bicycle or e-bike, or take a flight with Rottnest Air Taxi for an epic birds-eye view from above.

Chelsea Pridha at Unsp

lash

123RF

MAKE A SPLASH WITH WILD DOLPHINS Perth Wildlife Encounters in Rockingham offers wonderfully wild, ethical snorkelling experiences, just 45 minutes drive from Downtown Perth. Slip into the Indian Ocean with your expert marine guide and come eye-to-eye with a friendly resident pod of bottlenose dolphins, as they feed and play offshore. Boat tours to Shoalwater Islands Marine Park also offer safe snorkelling with Australian sea lions, or join a guided wildlife walk to see WA’s largest breeding colony of little penguins on Penguin Island.

Our wish list FOR 2024

Charitable

A new year means new travel plans. At we’re always seeking out the less obvious and more unusual so here, with help from some of our favourite travel writers, we present our dream destinations for 2024

Traveller

52 JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2024

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TENERIFE, SPAIN February in Puerto de la Cruz in Tenerife is a joy – the weather is generally balmy and it’s much quieter than over the summer months. Time your visit to coincide with the Santa Cruz de Tenerife carnival (this year running from 20 January to 18 February). When I was there last year everyone was in full carnival mode and there was a parade through the town, which was great fun to watch. The food is super fresh (go for the black paella at Bodega Julián) and there’s a luscious botanical garden too. Rosie Buddell, @CharitableTraveller

Sammy Wong at Unsplash

Steph Smith

I’d love to return to Mostar in Bosnia and Herzegovina. It’s a beautiful but war-scarred city famous for its Ottoman-style bridge, Stari Most, which straddles a dramatic turquoise river. From there, we caught an ancient but atmospheric train to Sarajevo. What I yearn to explore on my return though, is the mountains and lakes that we passed on our journeys to each city. They were breathtakingly beautiful and seemingly unspoilt by mass tourism. I hope this is still the case in 2024. Laura Gelder, @GaddingGelder

at Unsplash

BOSNIA AND HERZEGOVINA

TANZANIA I’d love to return to Tanzania after falling in love with the country during my six months of slow travel, connecting with incredible people, having unforgettable experiences in its diverse landscapes, and enjoying its rich food culture. It’s got a rare combination of pristine beaches, exceptional wildlife, the tallest mountain in Africa (Kilimanjaro), and a number of UNESCO heritage sites. Joyce Oladeinde, diywithjoy.com

Ferhat Deniz Fors at Unsplash

My perfect trip is one which includes plenty of time in or near the ocean, so I’m looking forward to visiting Raja Ampat, an Indonesian archipelago of 1,500 islands, off the coast of West Papua. Known as ‘the Amazon of the seas’, the coral reefs here support an abundance of marine life, making it a paradise for snorkellers and divers. I can’t wait to head beneath the waves to explore this incredible underwater realm, and meet the people who call the region’s remote islands home. Lauren Jarvis, @laurenjarvistravels

Zach Wear at Unsplash

RAJA AMPAT, INDONESIA

NEWFOUNDLAND, CANADA Top of my wish list is Atlantic Canada. With new flights on Westjet direct to Newfoundland starting in 2024, I can’t wait to go and see this beautiful part of the world. Incredible whale watching, lots of sustainable properties and fabulous seafood, it looks and sounds incredible. Helen Wright, passportstamps.uk

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2024 wish list

NUNAVUT, CANADA Top of my list is Nunavut, Canada’s largest and most northernmost territory (forming much of the Canadian Arctic Archipelago), which celebrates its 25th anniversary as an official dedicated Inuit entity this year. I’ve visited twice before but not since 1999, when even in May the sea around its capital, Iqaluit, was frozen and I enjoyed local food such as raw, frozen whale blubber. I had an amazing adventure, travelling in temperatures down to -40C at night under the Northern Lights and -26C by day. That included staying on an island inside the Arctic Circle, a snowmobile that broke down next to a huge iceberg trapped in the frozen Arctic Sea, and being towed on a traditional wooden qamatiq sled with an Inuit hunter on an ice fishing trip, hunting seals. Peter Ellegard, @peterellegard

Peter Ellegard

Nicola Brasetti at Unsplash

THE AZORES, PORTUGAL I’m most excited about my trip to the Azores this year. I had to postpone our summer trip, so in May I’m heading out for whale watching, hiking lava tubes and some incredibly lush landscapes. I think a lot of people imagine the Azores to be really inaccessible yet they’re actually easy to get to, so they always fall a bit under the radar. If there aren’t any direct flights, tagging on a couple of days in Lisbon for a connecting flight will only add to the experience! Sian Meades-Williams, @sianmeadeswilliams

AS GOOD AS IT GETS Whether you’re dreaming of a silky beach on a private island, a stylish hotel in a vibrant city or a jungle trek to spy exotic wildlife, Charitable Travel Luxury will help you plan your ideal holiday and donate 5% of the price to a UK charity of your choice at no extra cost. Wherever it is, a luxury holiday always centres on discovering unique destinations and enjoying authentic experiences. With over 25 years’ experience in luxury travel and Charitable Travel’s #TravelForGood ethos at heart, our expert Lizzi is waiting to craft a trip that is your kind of luxury.

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2024 wish list

THE PELOPONNESE PENINSULA, GREECE A couple of decades ago, a resident of the Menalon massif in the heart of Greece’s Peloponnese peninsula, was worried that the region was losing its centuries-old trails and the villages that they connected to. Drawing on the knowledge of local shepherds and huntsmen he created a 75-kilometre footpath, which he christened the Menalon Trail. It opened in 2015. I walked it this autumn and can’t wait to return to its silent pine forests, hilltop stone villages and upland meadows studded with threshing floors and walnut trees. I also loved its ancient monasteries, wedged into the cliffs like swallows’ nests. Try the locally made egg pasta and scrumptious skaltsounia (little socks), tiny pastry crescents filled with walnuts and honey. The good thing is that the Trail has breathed new life into the eight villages along it, as the presence of hikers has benefited everyone from taxi drivers to restaurateurs, hoteliers and shopkeepers. Go! Clare Hargreaves, @larderloutUK

PAROS, MILOS, NAXOS AND IOS, THE GREEK CYCLADES ISLANDS The Greek islands of Mykonos and Santorini may steal the show, but with one known to be pricey and the other overcrowded, this summer should see the spotlight shift to neighbouring isles. There’s already plenty of chatter about once-sleepy Paros and Milos, while Naxos is packed with history and Ios has gained luxurious hotels such as HideOut Suites. Better still, with direct flights from the UK to Mykonos and Santorini, it’s easy to ferry-hop among these sister Cyclades to discover whitewashed villages, fabulous food and truly epic sunsets – all without eye-watering costs or having to share with a cast of thousands. James Litston, @james_litston

Jonas Ingman, West Sweden

WEST SWEDEN The western region of Sweden is on my list for 2024 for many reasons, but most of all for its vast spaces. Expansive countryside stretches for miles, from the Baltic coast in the west to Lake Vanern in the north, dotted with forest trails, canals and welcoming towns. And then there’s the capital of the region, Gothenburg, which is a delight to stroll around, stopping for fika and following the river to the old town. Rebecca Miles, @CharitableTraveller

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5 Charities supporting

BETTER MENTAL HEALTH From helping make people feel less isolated to removing the stigma

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of suicide, these charities are working to improve the lives of people struggling with poor mental health

Your next holiday could help save a life By booking your next holiday through Charitable Travel, a donation is made to our vital pre-hospital emergency service.

Scan to browse Call 0800 8 40 20 40 midlandsairambulance.com

THE WOLFPACK PROJECT Dedicated to reducing loneliness and isolation in young adults, The Wolfpack Project works to identify the loneliest in society and help support them to engage in activities/ hobbies, pursue their interests, and access the one-to-one support of its Buddy Scheme. The charity recognises that each and every one of us will have experienced loneliness and social isolation at some point, and so is here to promote socialising and forging deeper connections with the community around us. charitable.travel/the-wolfpack-project

STATE OF MIND SPORT A charity that harnesses the power of sport to promote positive mental health, State of Mind Sport doesn’t just support sportsmen and women, but also the fans and wider communities, to ultimately prevent suicide. Established in 2011, State of Mind Sport raises awareness of the issues surrounding mental health and well-being and delivers education on the subject to all levels of sport, business, education and community groups. charitable.travel/state-of-mind-sport

MENTALKHEALTH With the simple aim of working to get men talking about mental health, for the benefit of everyone, MenTalkHealth does this by sharing lived experiences and conversations from a range of people who have a story to share. By promoting conversations, the charity hopes they can tackle the stigma that prevents men from finding help before it’s too late, and it does this by creating content, providing training and hosting events that are open to all. charitable.travel/mentalkhealth

PAPYRUS Founded by a group of parents in 1997 who had all tragically lost a child to suicide, Papyrus exists to reduce the number of young people who take their own lives. It does this by supporting and equipping young people and their communities with the skills to recognise and respond appropriately to suicidal behaviour, through its helpline (that offers confidential support and advice), and by delivering training and awareness-raising programmes to individuals and community groups. charitable.travel/papyrus-uk

BEN URI ARTS AND HEALTH INSTITUTE Inspired by the Ben Uri Collection of art works created by late 19th, 20th and 21st century immigrant artists in the UK, the charity aims to bring meaningful creative engagements to older adults who are experiencing social isolation or dementia. Through researched and evaluated art interventions, the Institute helps improve the mental health, independence and quality of life of people both living in care settings and the wider community using local day care centres. charitable.travel/ben-uri-arts-and-health

Mental Health First Aid Training We help maintain employee wellbeing by training staff across companies in the UK to become accredited Mental Health First Aiders in their job role.

Mental Fitness sessions

Mental Fitness Free E-Learning

Delivered across sports clubs, organisations and schools, our Mental Fitness sessions aim to raise awareness about mental health in order to prevent suicides in our communities.

We have teamed up with Meritec Ltd to provide a free online awareness course to help manage your mental fitness.

WHY I

donate...

Paige Bavin, a seven-year-old school child from Lincolnshire, has been walking two miles a day for two weeks to raise money to help save the

and the opportunities supporters My seven-year-old daughter Paige have to sponsor them. Paige fell in walked two miles a day for two love with the look of Nkosi, a Bavarian weeks to raise money for Dogs 4 hound, and we’ve been sponsoring Wildlife. She wanted to raise enough him since March. to send an anti-poaching dog to a The charity has a few anti-poaching reserve in South Africa, which would canine units, the idea being the dogs help to protect the endangered work as a deterrent to would-be rhinos there. She absolutely loves poachers and act as sworn protectors rhinos, and has done ever since she and defenders of the rhinos. was two and saw one when we were Paige raised £1,071, which will visiting the Yorkshire Wildlife Park. go towards sending Nkosi to the Paige had been asking me what she Bonamanzi Game Reserve in Kwazula could do to help save the rhinos, having Natal, South Africa. These dogs make read about and seen on Animal Planet a huge difference on the ground, with the threats they face to their existence. up to 75% reductions in poaching “I enjoy walking my dogs every day where they’re deployed. so I thought it would be a good idea Nkosi will join Dan and the ranger to make this into a fundraiser to help unit already in the Bonamanzi Game save the rhinos,” says Paige. We came Reserve, to help support the reserve’s up with the idea of doing two miles ongoing fight against wildlife crime. per day for two weeks, because on average two rhinos a day are poached. Nkosi is being trained as an elite human-scent tracking dog to help We first came across Dogs 4 Wildlife catch and arrest any would-be when we went to Folly Farm in poachers and protect the reserve’s Pembrokeshire a couple of summers diverse wildlife. ago. There’s a rhino reserve there, and “I’ve really enjoyed doing my Dogs 4 Wildlife work with them. two-miles a day fundraiser,” Since then, we’ve followed says Paige. “Lots of my them on Facebook and friends have joined me got chatting to the on my walks. They’ve all charity directors at last Dogs 4 Wildlife train dogs to been super supportive year’s Crufts, where fight against wildlife crime in and encouraging, we learnt more about Southern Africa we’ve had lots of fun the dogs they train

Canine crimefighters dogs4wildlife.org

58 JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2024

and I hope to do it again next year.” We mainly did the walks after school and Paige was raring to go each day. We’ve got a Facebook page set up (called Just a girl mad about Rhinos), and we’d post details there – so friends could drop in and join us. We all wore our matching save the rhinos T-shirts, so she became a bit of a mini celebrity in the village. I had parents stop me in the street to say they’d heard from their children about what Paige was doing, and the school got involved too, encouraging the pupils to do laps of the playground. None of our family have done anything like this before, but it’s brilliant to see the total raised going up and up, and Paige has definitely caught the bug to do more fundraising.

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rhinos and support Dogs 4 Wildlife. Her mum, Lisa Bavin, shares her story

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THE LIFE OF...

Debbie North is founder of Access the Dales, a

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charity that works to make the Yorkshire Dales National Park more accessible to people with disabilities by creating places to borrow mobility scooters. Initially started as a blog in 2011, when an illness meant Debbie was no longer able to walk in the Dales, Access the Dales became a fully fledged charity in 2022 and now has a network of wheelchair hubs across the Dales

At Access the Dales we are committed to making the countryside more accessible to more people by increasing the Access the Dales exists to break down the From the hub hosts, who welcome number of locations where you can barriers that prevent people guests to their wheelchair hub, to borrow an all-terrain wheelchair in the living with disabilities from those who support us financially north of England. Our goal is to make enjoying the great outdoors and and those who use our hubs, it’s a it easier for people with disabilities to to create a countryside for all team effort. get outside, enjoy the healing power charitable.travel/access-the-dales The first step to setting up a of nature, and appreciate the beauty wheelchair hub is to identify a of the natural world. suitable location and people who No two days at Access the Dales HQ are willing to host the hub. This are the same! Back in August 2022 when location should be easily accessible we gained charity status, never did we for wheelchairs and should be free of any think that we would grow so quickly. We had obstacles that could pose a threat to the safety planned to have three wheelchair hubs up and of those using the facility. Once the location has been running during that summer, but now, at the end of 2023, secured, an income source must be found to purchase we have seven wheelchair hubs and plans to extend into the necessary wheelchairs and other materials. the Forest of Bowland AONB with a further three hubs. The next step is to begin the groundwork. This It’s a lot of work! But it is worth it. We are so pleased that includes carrying out risk assessments, creating the people of the Dales have welcomed us with open and auditing a ‘stile-free’ route, and building a hub arms. We have had a fantastic response to the hubs and information page on the website. Additionally, a the feedback from the people who we have been able to handbook must be developed that outlines the rules help has been so positive. We know that we are making and regulations of the hub, how to properly use the a difference to wheelchairs and all the official stuff we need too. people’s lives The whole process takes a lot of time and effort but and that is so it’s worth it for those with physical disabilities who need rewarding. this safety and convenience. With the right location, We have a income source and handbook, the hubs are an invaluable core team of resource for those with disabilities. four trustees We are now expanding our operations into the and one parttime volunteer, Forest of Bowland, and as such we are in need of additional trustees and volunteers who are but there passionate about making the outdoors accessible for are always all. If you are interested in being involved, please get so many in touch with us via our website. We look forward to other people hearing from you! involved.

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THE PLASTIC

problem

On a mission to tackle the staggering amount of plastic in our oceans, Sophia Kavgalaki from Common Seas explains how this social enterprise is having a positive impact

WHAT IS COMMON SEAS?

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Common Seas is a social enterprise that partners with governments and businesses to design, deliver and demonstrate scalable solutions that tackle the source of the plastic problem. Our approach is tried and tested, with success stories from around the world.

WHERE DID THE IDEA FOR COMMON SEAS COME FROM? Our founder, Jo Royle, created Common Seas after two key experiences. Sailing to South Georgia, one of the world’s most remote islands, Jo saw the impact of plastic pollution first-hand. In among the natural treasures on the beach, were brightly coloured pieces of plastic waste. To raise awareness of the issue, Jo built Plastiki (pictured right), a 60-foot raft made f rom reclaimed

60 JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2024

plastic bottles. With an intrepid crew, she skippered Plastiki across the Pacific to raise awareness of the issue, attracting global media attention, and spent the next decade turning awareness into action, with a deep focus on technology and policy. Travelling on supply ships between islands, Jo led The Pew Charitable Trusts’ Global Ocean Legacy campaign to secure the UK Government’s commitment to delivering the Blue Belt of marine protected areas in Overseas Territories. They now cover more than 1.6 million square miles of ocean. Working with enforcement and technology specialists the team developed a big data platform, using satellite applications, to monitor remote and protected ocean. Jo also supported Prince Charles’s International Sustainability Unit

to deliver the UK Plastic Pact, comprising more than 100 major businesses pledging to eradicate single-use plastics. All of this encouraged Jo to form Common Seas to design and deliver scalable solutions that address the source of this growing plastic problem.

WHAT IS YOUR IMPACT? Our impact is twofold: Our programmes support decisions makers in governments and businesses to develop policies and plans to significantly reduce their plastic pollution. At the same time, our demonstration projects develop the principles in those policies in real-world situations. For example, on the island of Paros in Greece, a water ref ill programme has prevented the use (and disposal) of over 300,000 plastic bottles.

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Common Seas exists to quick ly and significan tly reduce th e amount of pl astic produc ed and stop it po lluting our rivers and se as. commonseas .com

AND HOW DO YOU HAVE THAT IMPACT? We have an impact in three areas. In business, our work is enabled by our digital solution, PlasTICK. PlasTICK is a digital platform specifically developed for the hospitality industry, designed to measure and report on singleuse plastics (SUP) – in line with the Global Tourism Plastics Initiative (GTPI) measurement methodology – and enable hospitality businesses to reduce their SUP items through circular economy solutions. By setting a baseline, setting targets and measuring reduction, businesses can see with real data the direct impact of reduction solutions on

their SUP consumption. You can find out more at PlasTICK. With governments, our work is enabled by Plastic Drawdown, a tool we developed in consultation with 24 governments around the world, and has been deployed in Maldives, Grenada, Barbados, The Gambia, and Indonesia. Plastic Drawdown models a country’s plastic emissions and analyses the potential impact of reduction policies. Our policy team is on hand to advise partners on policy design and implementation. And lastly, our demonstration projects show how policies can be applied in the real world. Their impact is direct, reducing plastic pollution at the source. You can

find out more about them on our website and in the community example below.

WHAT WOULD YOU LIKE TO SEE CHANGE/IMPROVE IN YOUR AREA? The United National is currently negotiating a Global Treaty on Plastic Pollution. We need a robust treaty that will protect our health, and secure a global cap on plastics production, with mandatory national action plans for reducing plastic pollution.

CAN YOU GIVE AN EXAMPLE OF HOW YOU’VE HELPED A COMMUNITY? In Indonesia, our ‘Bumbi’ reusable diapers programme has already prevented over 300,000 single-use plastic diapers, many of which would have been disposed of in the Brantas river, contributing to the 40,000 tonnes of plastic waste the river washes into the ocean each year.

WHAT’S NEXT FOR COMMON SEAS? Over the next year, we are planning to expand our impact, developing National Action Plans on plastic reduction for a further five nations, and helping governments to build capacity on plastics policies. We are also considering further demonstration projects to show how key policies can deliver the change that is so sorely needed.

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akt

in numbers

akt is the national LGBTQ+ youth homelessness charity, providing safe homes and better futures for LGBTQ+ young people. The charity was set up in Manchester in 1989 and has since opened its doors in London, Newcastle and Bristol, offering both an in-person and a digital service to support young people across the country.

10% 24% HOMELESS POPULATION

UK POPULATION

24% OF THE HOMELESS POPULATION IDENTIFY AS LGBTQ+, AS OPPOSED TO 10% OF THE ENTIRE UK POPULATION.

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24%

87% OF THE LGBTQ+ YOUNG PEOPLE THAT AKT SUPPORTS HAVE EXPERIENCED ROUGH SLEEPING AT SOME POINT IN THEIR LIFE

59%

OF THE YOUNG PEOPLE WHO COME TO AKT FOR SUPPORT SAY THEY FACED HARASSMENT OR DISCRIMINATION FROM OTHER HOMELESSNESS SUPPORT SERVICES

OF THE YOUNG PEOPLE AKT SUPPORTS ARE NOT AWARE OF ANY OTHER LGBTQ+ SUPPORT SERVICES BEYOND akt

IN ITS LIFESPAN, AKT HAS SUPPORTED OVER 50,000 LGBTQ+ YOUNG PEOPLE, AND PROVIDED MORE THAN 250,000 NIGHTS OFF THE STREET 62 MONTH/MONTH 2021

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61%

78% OF THE YOUNG PEOPLE AKT SUPPORTS CITE REJECTION FROM THEIR FAMILY AS A REASON FOR THEIR SITUATION

OF THE YOUNG PEOPLE AKT SUPPORTS HAVE FELT THREATENED OR FRIGHTENED BY THEIR FAMILY MEMBERS AFTER COMING OUT

LAST YEAR, AKT HELPED 817 LGBTQ+ YOUNG PEOPLE AROUND THE UK EVERY YEAR, REFERRALS TO AKT INCREASE BETWEEN DECEMBER AND MARCH – THE COLDEST AND HARSHEST MONTHS TO BE HOMELESS

48%

MORE LIKELY TO HAVE LIVED IN UNSUITABLE HOUSING THAN THE GENERAL POPULATION

2019

2023

REFERRALS FROM THE TRANS AND NON-BINARY COMMUNITY HAVE SKYROCKETED IN RECENT YEARS – 4 YEARS AGO, 24% OF ALL AKT’S REFERRALS WERE TRANS AND NONBINARY, COMPARED TO 49% CURRENTLY

LGBTQ+ PEOPLE ARE

FIND OUT MORE AT CHARITABLE.TRAVEL/AKT

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Book a holiday with a difference with Charitable Travel Whether you’re longing for a beach break to build amazing memories with your family, a romantic escape with your loved one, or want to don your backpack and venture back into the great unknown, our team of travel experts can help you plan and book the holiday you deserve. Plus, when you book with Charitable Travel you can donate 5% of your holiday cost to a charity of your choice… completely free!

2024 Book with confidence

charitable.travel / 020 3092 1288 / bookings@charitable.travel Putting our profit to work supporting the work of charitable causes Fundraising Futures Community Interest Company, Contingent Works, Broadway Buildings, Elmfield Road, Bromley, Kent BR1 1LW ALL PACKAGE HOLIDAYS ARE ATOL AND TRUST PROTECTED.

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