Charitable Traveller - July-August24 - Issue23

July/August 2024

Launching our new tour with conservation charity Tigers4Ever

Camping with the all-female Black Mambas

SOLO TO LAGOS

Pelumi Nubi tackles nearly 10,000km from London to Lagos

TOURING WITH TIGERS

FROM THE EDITOR Rebecca Miles

This issue’s cover image is of two wild tigers photographed in India’s Bandhavgarh National Park by Tigers4Ever trustee Tal Chohan. And it’s on the cover because we’re pleased to announce that Charitable Travel has teamed up with the conservation charity Tigers4Ever to launch a unique tour of India in April 2025.

We’re pleased to announce that Charitable Travel has teamed up with the conservation charity Tigers4Ever to launch a unique tour of India in April 2025

Not only will it include the chance to visit Delhi, Agra and Jaipur, the highlight is to safari with a Tigers4Ever leader in the national park. More details are available on p9.

Elsewhere in the magazine, we’re on camp with the Black Mambas, the world’s first all-female anti-poaching unit, and we round up the best global sporting events taking place over the next few years. Tickets will be in demand, so get planning now!

INSIDE THIS ISSUE

donate GOSH 63 Success story In Kind Donate

Social enterprise Q&A Be Inclusive Hospitality

In numbers National Energy Action

GET THE PICTURE

A NEW PATH The Kingdom of Bhutan has gained cult status among hiking fans, and with its lush Himalayan mountains and valleys, rich culture and hilltop monasteries it’s clear to see why. Joining the hallowed trails is the new Jo Bay Tsho trek through the Haa Valley (pictured) in the southwest of the country. The 25km-long hike takes approximately two days to complete and travels between the villages of Mocha and Gakiling Gewog, taking in Bhutan’s bamboo forests, Buddhist temples and the trek’s namesake, Jo Bay Tsho (which historically translates to hidden lake).

SOLO TO LAGOS Pelumi Nubi has become the first Black female to drive solo from London, UK to Lagos, Nigeria, covering nearly 10,000km in her small purple Peugeot 107. The trailblazing adventurer modified her car to include a sleeping area and a kitchen, which enabled her to camp in most of the countries she visited. And while this journey makes her a record holder, for Pelumi the adventure was all about sharing the stories of the communities she met en route.

Pelumi

EXPLORE GRAZ SUSTAINABLY

Graz, infused with Mediterranean flair, invites travellers to explore and discover its car-free historic city centre, where the charm of yesteryear meets pioneering sustainability. Wander through vibrant markets overflowing with local produce, set against a backdrop that beautifully marries historical elegance with a commitment to an eco-friendly future.

Find out more at Sustainable Journeys: sustainablejourneys.co.uk/places/graz

GLOBAL GOOD NEWS

DENMARK’S EURO

2024 SQUAD HAVE REFUSED A PAY RISE TO ENSURE PAY PARITY WITH THE WOMEN’S TEAM. BOTH THE MEN’S AND WOMEN’S TEAMS WILL EARN THE SAME BASIC MATCH FEES

Renewables

GEOTHERMAL RISES UP

With the potential to save an annual 10m tonnes of planetwarming emissions, the National Geothermal Centre, a not-forprofit, launched in the UK in June. Funded by The Net Zero Technology Centre, Durham University, SHIFT Geothermal and the Reece Foundation, it aims to champion geothermal energy’s role in the drive for net zero and to catalyse collaboration between the public and private sectors. Expanding the UK’s geothermal capacity could create 50,000 jobs, and provide energy security.

Nature restoration

HISTORIC DEAL TO PROTECT EUROPE’S NATURE

In a huge win for Europe’s nature, climate action, citizens and future, the EU Environmental Council has finally adopted the Nature Restoration Law. It was the last step for this long-awaited proposal to become law, and will require member states to begin restoring a fifth of the bloc’s land and oceans by the end of the decade. Regions with the most potential to capture and store carbon will be prioritised under the legislation. Leonore Gewessler, Austria’s Green party climate minister, defied the Austrian chancellor, and farming lobbies, to end the months-long deadlock.

Conservation TIGERS TOUR

In collaboration with conservation charity Tigers4Ever, Charitable Travel is launching a unique tour of India in April 2025, including Delhi, Agra, Jaipur, the Bandhavgarh National Park and Mumbai. Aside from the opportunity to explore the incredible sights of India, the highlight is to safari with a leader from Tigers4Ever through the National Park to see wild tigers and learn of the critical conservation work. This issue’s front cover image was taken by trustee Tal Chohan, who had been tracking the mother tigress and her sub-adult cub for a couple of days and found them on a sambar deer kill. He soon figured out their routine, which was to feed periodically and move through the jungle every morning to visit a water hole to cool off and have a drink. The sub adult was over a year old, and nearly as large as the mother, but the bond between them was still strong as they walked closely in parallel, stopping only for an affectionate head rub, just like our domestic cats. To find out how to join the Temple & Tigers tour click visit: charitable.travel/ temples-and-tigers

Rainforests

DECLINING DEFORESTATION

Could we be reaching a turning point in the Amazon rainforest? Deforestation in the planet’s largest rainforest plunged in May to its lowest level since March 2018, says Brazil’s space research insitutue, which monitors its status. And, comparing Amazon deforestation in 2024 with the same period last year, it’s down 40%, and analysts predict a sharp drop for the 12 months ending 31 July. But while felling is down in the Amazon, neighbouring Cerrado continues to be felled at pace, plus forest fires caused by drought are also having an impact.

Wildlife

The Iberian lynx has returned from the brink of extinction after just two decades of committed cooperative conservation efforts by public bodies, NGOs, scientific institutions and community members across Spain and Portugal

LGBTQ+ rights

MARRIAGE FOR ALL

Thailand is set to become the first south-east Asian country to recognise same-sex marriages, after 130 of the 152 senators in Thailand’s upper house voted for the bill. The legislation will come into force 120 days after it is published in the royal gazette, and will give LGBTQ+ and straight couples the same legal rights. The decision follows two decades of campaigning by activists for a more just and equitable society for all.

Jonathan Lampel at Unsplash

WIN LONELY PLANET’S LATEST BOOK,

OFFBEAT NORTH AMERICA

Discover 100 unforgettable North America destinations that are far from the tourist trail

From under-the-radar national parks to small towns with big personalities, North America is full of remarkable unsung spots that have so much to offer. Across each of the USA’s 50 states, plus Canada, Mexico and the Dominican Republic, in Offbeat North America you’ll find the lowdown on these lesser known places.

This beautifully photographed, hardback book includes ‘Go if you like...’ comparisons to help steer you towards magnificent alternatives to over-populated sites and landmarks, suggestions for amazing crowd-free experiences at every destination, and helpful tips for first-time travellers. Alongside the striking photography, you’ll also find plenty of practical planning information and handy locator maps. Yet perhaps the most insightful part is the insider knowledge given on how to ensure your visit has a positive

impact on local communities, with details on local history, up and coming neighbourhoods and family-run businesses included for each place. You’ll also find sustainable travel options highlighted wherever possible.

Inside, you’ll find such destinations as the Channel Islands National Park in California, the Iron Range in Minnesota, the highlands of Santiago Apola in Mexico, and the Painted Hills in the John Day Region in Oregon.

Perfect for curious minds, this inspiring guide is a must-read for anyone dreaming of or planning a sustainable adventure in North America.

Lonely Planet’s Offbeat North America is out now in hardback for £32.99, available where all good books are sold.

We’ve got 10 copies of Lonely Planet’s Offbeat North America to give away – to be in with a chance of winning one, visit charitable.travel/lonelyplanet to enter our competition

HOW TO BE A GREENER TRAVELLER

You’ve done all you can to reduce your carbon footprint travelling to your holiday, but what about once you’re there? Richard Hammond shares his suggestions for how to be a greener guest at your accommodation

These days, hoteliers are quick to flag up what they’re doing in terms of being an eco hotel, but it’s less clear how you can individually make a difference to reduce the impact of your stay on the environment and benefit the local economy. Here are a few tips for being a more mindful guest:

CAMPING

Away from the trappings of modern living, camping is often considered a low impact holiday, but if you stay a while on site, it’s easy to accumulate piles of rubbish. Where possible, use compostable or recyclable cooking and eating equipment, and take a large water container that can be refilled on site, rather than buying lots of plastic bottles. If you’re taking extra supplies of toilet roll, check whether the campsite requires it to be biodegradable, and buy from ethical suppliers, such as uk.whogivesacrap.org. Sort your rubbish and put it in relevant recycling bins on site before you leave. If you have camping gear that you no longer need, rather than sending it to landfill, consider sending it to organisations such as Gift Your Gear and the Continuum Project, or share it on Freecycle.

SELF-CATERING

It’s all too easy to forget about what food you’re going to need for a selfcatering break until the last moment, at which point you make an emergency dash to the nearest supermarket,

buy everything in bulk, and then end up throwing the surplus food and associated packaging in the bin at the end of the week.

Far better to plan ahead and buy fresh, seasonal food, or order it from a local supplier who can deliver it to you before you reach your accommodation. Increasingly, farm shops are providing local delivery services – there’s a handy guide to over 8,800 farm shops across the UK at bigbarn.co.uk; these are places that pride themselves on the quality of artisan food. There may well be local schemes, such as localfooddirect.co.uk, which delivers fresh, local and ethically sourced food across Somerset, shropshiresown.co.uk, which delivers throughout Shropshire, and food4myholiday.com, a family-run service specifically for self-catering guests in Cornwall and West Devon.

HOTELS

On entering the room, read the information pack to understand how you can support the hotel’s eco initiatives, for example, by preventing your laundry from being washed every day or making sure you sort your rubbish in accordance with the hotel’s recycling scheme. Also, look out for any tips on how you can support the local economy, such as where you can eat locally. Turn off the air-conditioning unit/heating or adjust it to a sensible temperature: personal preferences vary, but generally somewhere between 21

and 23ºC (70–74ºF) is comfortable for most. On leaving the room, turn off the air-con, heating or other electric devices that are on standby (if the hotel hasn’t given you a key card that does this automatically). On check out, give your hotel feedback on how eco-friendly you think it is; if you think it could do more, encourage the hotel to go greener in the future.

Happy green travels!

Next issue: Sustainable food and drink

For more tips on how to go green, see greentraveller.co.uk

JOHN BREWER REEF, TOWNSVILLE

ASK THE EXPERT

Our resident travel expert and founder of Charitable Travel, Melissa Tilling, answers your travel dilemmas. If you’ve got a consumer query or are in need of some inspiration for your next trip, email us your questions

QAs temperatures continue to rise in the Med, where do you suggest for a summer beach holiday that will likely be cooler than southern Europe? And if I can travel there by train, then even better!

Miranda Newton

AFor a summer beach holiday with cooler temperatures than southern Europe, consider exploring beach destinations in Finland, Estonia, and Germany – but leave your travels until after the first week of August to avoid the local family holiday times which can be busy. These regions offer beautiful coastal and lakeside areas with milder summer weather, making them perfect for a refreshing escape. Rail travel to Finland and Estonia can take a while but make the journey part of the holiday and stop and stay en route in some great European cities.

In Finland choose from a break by the sea or a lakeside beach. The Helsinki Archipelago has so many islands, offering tranquil beaches, scenic views, and outdoor activities such as kayaking, biking and hiking. The islands of Suomenlinna and Pihlajasaari are particularly popular for their natural beauty and beach areas. Lake Saimaa, the largest lake in Finland, offers beautiful beaches, crystal-clear waters, and a serene natural setting. The area is perfect for

swimming, boating, and walking. You can travel by train from the UK to Helsinki, then take a train to the Lakeland region, specifically to towns like Savonlinna or Lappeenranta.

Across the Baltic try Estonia. Pärnu, known as Estonia’s summer capital, boasts long sandy beaches, a charming old town, and a vibrant cultural scene. It’s an ideal destination for relaxing and exploring. You can reach Pärnu by taking a train from the UK via Berlin and Warsaw (two further great places to explore).

Haapsalu is a small, picturesque town on Estonia’s west coast and offers beautiful beaches, a historic castle, and a peaceful atmosphere. Haapsalu is perfect for those looking for a quieter beach holiday.

For a shorter rail journey try Germany. Rügen is Germany’s largest island, known for its stunning chalk cliffs, sandy beaches, and charming seaside resorts like Binz and Sellin. The island’s cooler summer temperatures and serene atmosphere make it a great alternative to the Mediterranean. You can travel by train from the UK to Hamburg and then take a regional train to Rügen. Another recommendation is Usedom. This island, shared by Germany and Poland, boasts long sandy beaches, elegant seaside resorts, and beautiful natural parks.

The towns of Heringsdorf and Zinnowitz are particularly popular.

Q

I’m totally confused about what is the latest situation regarding passport validity. I’m planning to go to Spain in August and my passport expires next year (March 2025) – will I be okay to travel? And does this vary from country to country? I’m also nervous about renewing my passport as it sounds like it can take a really long time – do you have any advice on how to make that process as quick as possible please?

Frida Armstrong

ASince Brexit, UK passport holders are now considered ‘third-country nationals’ by EU and Schengen countries, so entry rules have become more stringent and there are two primary rules that have caught people about. Your passport must be issued less than 10 years before your arrival date (the day you land on holiday) and be valid for three months from the final day of your holiday. UK passports can have more than 10 year validity, if renewing before the last one expires, so be careful of this.

Renewing your passport using the ‘standard’ process for an adult regular size passport, at the time of publication, should take three weeks and costs £88.50 applying online, £100 if applying on paper by post, and an additional £16 using the Check and Send process at a qualifying Post Office. The wait time varies and you should check online well in advance of your holiday at gov.uk. You can get a passport more quickly but with much higher costs (as much as £217.50) with ‘how to’ details available through the same Gov UK website.

SPORTS

EVENTS

Sports fans, rejoice! For over the next two years or so, there are some truly epic contests and championships taking place across the globe. From Ryder Cup golf in New York to rowing in Shanghai and the Ashes in Australia, act now to secure your tickets and travel to see the best of the best in action

WORDS BY Rebecca Miles

7world-class 1

THE ASHES 2025

It’s the one all English cricket fans have been waiting for – England visit Australia at the end of 2025, seeking to regain the hallowed urn. Thanks to Covid and a 2-2 series draw in England in 2023, the Australian team have had their hands on the Ashes since 2018 and fans have had to wait eight years for the opportunity to take it back.

While the exact match dates are yet to be confirmed, we do know that five legendary venues will be hosting the two months of sporting drama. They are: The Gabba in Brisbane, home of many an epic battle; Adelaide Oval known for its highly charged atmosphere; Perth Stadium, a marvel of modern engineering; Melbourne Cricket Ground, the home of Australian cricket and steeped in history; and Sydney Cricket Ground, the scene of many Ashes dramas.

The opportunity for cricket fans to travel to Australia has been a long time coming, so make the most of it and see the Outback, the vineyards and the glorious beaches too.

Marcus Wallis at Unsplash

WORLD CUP FOOTBALL 2026

The FIFA World Cup in 2026 isn’t just taking over one country, it’s taking over three – the USA, Mexico and Canada. Matches will be taking place in 16 cities across North America, providing fans with the perfect excuse to see as much as possible. The fixtures are set for the tournament’s 104 games, with the opening match taking place in the Azteca Stadium in Mexico City and the final in New Jersey’s MetLife Stadium.

RYDER CUP 2025

Golf’s grandest stage is coming to New York in September 2025, when the Black Course at Bethpage State Park hosts the Ryder Cup, a biennial men’s golf competition, and joins Oak Hill Country Club as the only New York courses to host the prestigious event.

Over three days, 28 matches will be played between Team USA and Team Europe, the current holders of the cup. Each match win is worth one point, and to win it back, Team USA will need to collect 14.5 points of the 28 available. If it goes to a 14-14 tie, Team Europe will retain the trophy. In Bethpage State Park on Long Island you’ll find five 18-hole golf courses, all open to the public. The Black Course opened in 1936 as part of the Depression Era public-works project that built Bethpage State Park and has a very vocal, golf-crazed New York fan base.

Freepik

MEXICO CITY

NEW YORK

Bhargava Marripati

OLYMPIC AND PARALYMPIC WINTER GAMES, 2026

Italy welcomes the Olympics for the fourth time in 2026, when the action will focus in the north of the country. Joint host cities Milan and Cortina d’Ampezzo will be hosting the ice and snow events; the former will be the epicentre of the ice hockey and ice skating competitions, while the latter, in the spectacular Dolomite Mountains, will welcome the alpine skiing, the curling and the bobsleigh. The snowboarding and freestyle skiing will take place in Livigno.

ENGLAND TEST CRICKET 2024

If you can’t wait until the Ashes in Australia in 2025, the men’s England cricket team will be heading to New Zealand in December 2024 for a thrilling three-test Tour. Playing five-day matches in Christchurch, Wellington and Hamilton, the Tour provides an ideal opportunity to visit both islands, and catch some highly anticipated matches. Stay in the country for just under a month to watch all three Tests, or extend your stay with a preTest tour of the South Island, as November, with spring turning to summer, is a great time to visit New Zealand.

CORTINA

WELLINGTON

Betty

Jill Beckmann at Unsplash

TOUR DE FRANCE FEMMES 2024

Rotterdam in The Netherlands is the destination for the Grand Départ of the third Tour de France Femmes. The now annual Tour de France Femmes event will take place between the Paris 2024 Olympic Games and the Paralympic Games, and will see the cyclists spend three days in The Netherlands (including an individual time trial on Stage Three in Rotterdam), before travelling into France and finishing on the legendary and gruelling 18 hair-pin bends of the climb up to the ski resort of Alpe d’Huez in the French Alps. Spectators are encouraged to line the route to watch the peloton whizz past; Stage One from Rotterdam to The Hague promises a flat, fast race.

WORLD ROWING CHAMPIONSHIPS, 2025

The annual World Rowing regatta is the culmination of the rowing season and, as it includes both Olympic and International boat classes, provides fans with the chance to watch all the greats. As 2024 is an Olympic year, the next full Championships will be in Shanghai, China, in September 2025, coming to the country for the first time. Shanghai has long had a strong bond with its river and the aim is for the event to help foster further development of water sports in China. The hub of the races will be Suzhou Creek, where you’ll find the recently redeveloped waterfront that includes the former Shanghai Rowing Club clubhouse, built in 1905.

Denys Nevozhai at Unsplash

Freepik

ROTTERDAM

SHANGHAI

j Lincoln Memorial

Get to know WASHINGTON, DC

WHAT’S IT ALL ABOUT?

Ask anyone what the most important address in the United States is and they’ll tell you it’s 1600 Pennsylvania Avenue – the location of the White House. The political circus there helps define the nation and, as a place of venerable institutions, Washington, DC sure packs a punch. There are dozens of terrific Smithsonian museums and party piece monuments like the Lincoln Memorial and, with so many lawmakers and lobbyists around, the vibe is always subtly fabulous. But Washington, DC doesn’t just lead in the affairs of the nation, it’s also the world’s first LEED Platinum city (awarded in 2017), thanks to having the most green-certified buildings in the U.S.

SEEK OUT THE UNIQUE

Birthplace of Duke Ellington, the Shaw neighbourhood centering around U Street was once called Black Broadway for its jazz clubs and rich African-American culture. While places like the Lincoln Theatre still trade on that hazy Miles Davis and Ella Fitzgerald heritage, the 9:30 Club and storied punk hangout the Black Cat showcase plenty more modern soul. For a pre- or post-gig snack, Ben’s Chili Bowl is good enough for the Obamas.

GET YOUR BEARINGS

Start on the National Mall, one of the most thrilling settings of any American city. Home to Congress, the Senate, the Supreme Court and the Library of Congress, the Capitol Hill area sits at its eastern flank and is the most powerful place in the free world – it feels like being dropped into the midst of a Hollywood political thriller. Just north, across Senate Park, lies Union Station, America’s first great railroad terminal.

BEN’S CHILI BOWL

WORDS BY MIKE MACEACHERAN

Feeling inspired? Find out more at

OFF THE BEATEN TRACK DISTRICTS

NOMA

This rapidly developing area (named for its location north of Massachusetts Avenue NE) is home to Union Market, a restored midcentury grocery hall. It’s the hub of DC’s gourmet scene, with a tempting mix of restaurants and food shops.

NAVY YARD

Dominated by Nationals Park, the baseball stadium for the Washington Nationals, this area on the Anacostia River is shaped by the presence of the oldest marine core in the United States. Visit the National Museum of the United States Navy, then The Yards, a waterfront boardwalk of lively restaurants and bars.

MARKET

NEVER GO HUNGRY OR THIRSTY

In an area characterised by magnolia trees and mansard roof houses, Eastern Market is a landmark red-bricked grocery hall behind Capitol Hill. Hailed as a community hub, it’s been serving all manner of street food snacks, local produce and deli goodies since 1873. Other places to eat well include Bresca on 14th Street, which has gone carbon neutral, and all the eateries in the Farmers Restaurant Group, which are all LEED-certified, while Right Proper Brewing Company is run completely on solar power.

EXPLORE ON FOOT

Despite America being the home of the automobile, DC is one of the greenest U.S. cities, with a quarter of the city reserved for parkland and biking, and walking is a way of life – in fact, the majority of locals live within 10-minutes of park space. A few places to soak up the green vibe are Theodore Roosevelt Island Park, Anacostia Park and Rock Creek Park, the U.S.’ oldest urban national park.

SHOP UNTIL YOU DROP

In the city’s west, Georgetown is a historical grid of streets crammed with dedicated American fashion and design stores, particularly on M Street, which has 150-odd specialty shops selling preppy outfits, sneakers and closet upgrades. When you get as far west as Francis Scott Key Park – dedicated to the wordsmith behind the Star-Spangled Banner –you know you’ve gone too far.

ROCK CREEK PARK

NAVY YARD

ON ANTI-POACHING PATROL

CUTE MHLONGO, LEITAH MKHABELA, FELICIA MOGAKANE, DEBRA MUKANZI & COLLET NGOBENI

Book an overnight stay with the Black Mambas via charitable.travel

Want to know what it’s like to be part of the Black Mambas, the world’s first all-female anti-poaching unit? As of earlier this year guests can camp overnight with them in the Greater Kruger National Park, South Africa, and Diana Jarvis is one of the first to sign up

In the ten or so years since the Black Mambas – the world’s first all-female anti-poaching unit – was established, they’ve garnered plenty of column inches and air time.

So, after many hours’ travel, I climb out of the jeep into the hot, dry mid-afternoon warmth, and I’m in wild anticipation. And, as I stand there with Cute, Leitah, Felicia, Debra and Collet, feeling their pride and confidence swell as they welcome us to their headquarters, I know I’m in the presence of greatness.

I’m here in South Africa to camp overnight with the Black Mambas in the bush as part of a new collaboration with Intrepid – the only tour operator to offer overnight stays with the organisation.

WHAT THEY DO

The Black Mambas are 36 young African women who patrol 15,000 hectares of Olifants West Nature Reserve in Greater Kruger National Park. They’re supported by the charity Helping Rhinos and their job involves looking for snares, looking for animals caught in snares, and seeking out poachers. Their anti-poaching approach is unusual as they don’t carry guns. Instead, the Black Mambas are armed with knowledge and, most crucially, they’re embedded in the very communities many poachers also come from.

WORDS AND PICTURES BY Diana Jarvis

“Wire snares are often set for bushmeat poaching. But many bushmeat poachers graduate on to endangered species’ poaching, especially rhinos,” says Cute Mhlongo, as we head out on a dusty track with the late-afternoon light painting an orange glow on the dry scrub bush.

who are more than likely to be from local communities, simply striving to earn a living to survive.

And this is precisely why the women from these local communities prove to be the best defence in saving rhinos and other animals from poachers.

“We are the ears and eyes of the reserve – that is why we are unarmed; we don’t want to live in a village where there are orphans and widows”

Collet Ngobeni elaborates on this and explains that there are three main groups involved in poaching: those who know where to sell the rhino horns; those who know where to find the rhinos, and; those who carry guns into the bush, kill the rhinos and hand the horns on to others in exchange for money. It’s those at the bottom end of the chain

“We are the ears and eyes of the reserve – that is why we are unarmed; we don’t want to live in a village where there are orphans and widows. If we carry guns and kill people inside the reserve, the kids in the communities will grow up wanting to pay revenge on us for killing their fathers and leaving them orphans and their mothers as widows,” says

ON PATROL THROUGH OLIFANTS

Felicia Mogakane.

Kruger has the largest global population of rhinos but is also victim to more poaching attacks than any other area.

“It’s all about creating awareness, sending a message to the villages and giving women a voice. We grew up in villages where traditionally only men could be rangers and we broke the chain – we have shown the world that women can also do this,” says Leitah Mkhablea.

Not following any discernible path (we’re deep in the bush now), Felicia warns us to keep an eye out for actual black mambas – one of the

most deadly snakes in the region – as well as thorny thickets. We walk in single file, keeping an eye out for each other as well as the Big Five, all of which are resident in this area.

We spot a giant spider in its own web, baboons making their home in the crook of an electricity pylon, a large earthen mound, likely home to a warthog family but, thankfully, the perimeter fence is clear of any break-ins and we don’t find any snare wire.

The sun has all but gone and occasional taller trees make impressive silhouettes against the electric blue dusk as we walk back to camp.

OLIFANTS WEST RESERVE

EXAMINING ANIMAL DUNG

VERVET MONKEY

A NIGHT UNDER THE STARS

The tents are set up in a dry riverbed flanked by acacia and is far from basic. Despite a few logistical and engineering issues with the warthogs digging up the initial water pipes and sewage system, the al fresco shower and toilet work like a dream.

When we return from patrol, our camp cook Enoch has rustled up a chicken, some veg stew and bread cooked over campfire and gas stove. A crescent moon hangs in the inky sky, the Milky Way just about discernible and we eat by campfire and torchlight, sharing stories.

Later, we’re joined by Craig Spencer, founder of the Black Mambas and also the MD and founder of Transfrontier Africa NPC. He realised that it was the women of the local communities that held the key to educating the villagers about the importance of protecting the animals and preserving the landscape, so set about creating a training programme – inspired by both his military background and his work in the environmental and conservation fields.

He describes the wider societal tapestry that, like any society, experiences tension between older and younger generations. Here, it’s not traditional for women to be in these roles – so

BUILDING A BETTER TOMORROW

Animals Asia’s new bear rescue center in Bach Ma National Park will help save the endangered moon bear from extinction in Vietnam. Phase one is now complete – but there is still so much work to be done. One of our founding goals is to end the illegal bear bile industry in Vietnam for good.

Please join us in building a better future for wildlife and the community in Vietnam.

LOOKING FOR ANIMAL CLUES ON TREE TRUNKS

LEITAH AT BLACK MAMBAS HQ

In the last six years, the Black Mambas have removed more than 1,471 snares and seen a 63% reduction in poaching within the area of operation

ON PATROL THROUGH THE BUSH

he places himself as the mediator between the existing power structures and the communities. And it works.

In the last six years the Black Mambas have removed more than 1,471 snares and seen a 63% reduction in poaching within the area of operation.

As the dying embers of the fire signal time for bed, I wander up to the ablutions area and, greeted by a poo-y stench and reminded of festival toilets, I hear something of a significant size race away into the bush. I realise it isn’t the toilets smelling, it’s the fresh poo of whatever animal I’ve narrowly avoided.

It’s warm in the tent and as I snuggle into the sleeping bag, I’m aware of curious noises: an intermittent burbling croak, twigs snapping further away, a white noise of myriad insects, a gentle thump of hooves, and a lion’s roar (perhaps I’m imagining that one, oh the images your mind can conjure in the dark). I’m easily lulled into a reverie of deep, dreamless sleep and awake refreshed the next morning.

After breakfast, Leitah shows us a range of fresh animal poo in the camp; the small black pellets were courtesy of giraffe, slightly larger ones warthog and rounder pellets from impala. “They wander right through here?” I ask. “Yes, it’s their home,” she says.

And I feel a curious sense of contentment at being a part of the natural order of things. Humans, camping out in the bush – just another mammal in our huge ecosystem of interconnectedness.

CAMPFIRE TALES WITH CRAIG

EARLY MORNING CAMP BREAKFAST

THE CONTROL ROOM

Far from the famous costas and busy cities, an unparalleled choice of rural destinations awaits visitors to the Spanish peninsula. This mesmerising world of rugged mountains, of desert, of olive groves and vineyards just begs to be discovered. Apart from the landscapes, you’ll find delightful, well-appointed and affordable casas rurales, luxurious Paradors (hotels) occupying stunning historic monuments, as well as endless castles, churches and even Roman ruins. Not least,

the route will be peppered with welcoming restaurants serving appetising regional specialities and local wines.

BEYOND MADRID

Madrid is the hub of the radiating AVE train network. One remarkable destination just an hour away is Cuenca, in Castilla-La Mancha. Set in spectacular mountains, this striking World Heritage Site offers medieval architecture including balconied houses clinging to a cliff-face, convents, and modern

SANCTUARY OF COVADONGA, ASTURIAS

Feeling inspired? Explore rural Spain with Sustainable Journeys

Spain TAKE A NEW LOOK AT

Hop on a train, hire an electric vehicle or take to two wheels and venture beyond the obvious to a land of ancient stories and dramatic landscapes

WORDS BY Fiona Dunlop

art collections as well as a trail through a surrealistic landscape of eroded rocks – the Ciudad Encantada. The Parador, converted from a late Gothic monastery, offers sublime views across a gorge to the ‘hanging houses’, where steep cobbled streets lead to Michelinrated restaurants and lively bars (where you’ll find Cuenca’s potent tipple, Resoli, a coffee-, anise- and orange-flavoured liqueur).

Winters can be cold due to the altitude, and at weekends the town fills up with Madrileños, so be prepared. From this remote setting

you can continue by fast train to the coast at Valencia – Europe’s Green Capital 2024.

BEYOND BARCELONA

Starting from Barcelona, take a train to Tarragona to visit an outstanding cluster of Roman sights before heading inland by local train. Skirting the Prades mountains, it arrives within an hour at Montblanc, a beautiful, walled, medieval town packed with Gothic sights. Overnight there or take a taxi a few miles south to Vilaverd for warm hospitality

at the 17th century Cal Maginet. Nearby, the Cistercian Monastery of Poblet plunges you back into the 12th century – and you can also have lunch there.

This entire region of vineyards and mountains is a delight which, if exploring by EV, you can penetrate further west to discover the source of luscious Priorat wine; book in advance to visit a bodega or stay at the luxury winery-hotel, Terra Dominicata. By train, finish the tour by continuing to Lleida, an ancient city with a towering cathedral, Moorish castle, Templar fortress and arboretum. Stay at the elegant Parador, converted from a 17th century convent, and enjoy sophisticated Catalan dishes at its lofty, domed restaurant. Then, in just over an hour, a train will whisk you back to Barcelona, or in two hours to Madrid.

EXPLORING THE NORTH

In the far north, the region of Asturias offers a triangle of complementary small cities that can easily be reached by local train, starting in the capital, Oviedo – just over three hours by fast train from Madrid, and celebrated this year as Spain’s gastronomic capital. In all three you won’t miss the theatrical pouring of Asturian cider, nor fabada, a sustaining pork and

bean stew, nor the innovative dishes that the region has pioneered.

Oviedo, the capital of the first Christian kingdom of the Iberian Peninsula, is an architectural jewel. At its heart the sprawling Gothic cathedral towers over a labyrinth of narrow streets, but the most exceptional sights are on the outskirts. Here, three preRomanesque churches, each unique in style, include San Julian displaying remarkable 9th century frescoes. Move into the 21st century in Aviles where, despite a stylish historical nucleus and later industrialisation, the outstanding sight is the sci-fi style Centro Niemeyer, a cultural showcase named after its Brazilian architect. Complete the triangle in Gijon, a breezy seaside town where you can stride along a lengthy

TOLEDO

VINEYARDS OF LA RIOJA ALTA

beach then climb through the streets of the quaint fishermen’s quarter to a panoramic headland then down to the harbour. En route, there is no shortage of bar, cafés – or cider.

Inland Asturias is also about fresh air and green pasture, so hike the Senda del Oso, a Y-shaped trail southeast of Oviedo. In the same direction lies the large, recently renovated spa complex of Las Caldas – perfect to recover from sightseeing.

BEYOND MALAGA

Down south, an EV is ideal for discovering a string of idyllic pueblos blancos sprinkling the Serrania de Ronda inland from Malaga. Head into the dizzying hills via Cartama to reach Ardales. Surrounded by lakes, reservoirs, rolling

Payoyo cheese, a mix of goat and ewe’s milk. Zahara de la Sierra, tumbling down a hillside above a reservoir, is a popular destination but surpassed by scenic Grazalema itself – the hikers’ favourite for accommodation and food. Visit an olive-oil mill or, nearer Ronda, tour a wine bodega – the entire south is a veritable land of plenty which has seduced so many invaders over the centuries, much like the rest of this bucolic peninsula.

GETTING AROUND

To access the interior, the most sustainable way is by train; Spain now has nearly 4,000km of high-speed lines (the AVE), second only to China. What was once an achingly slow journey by road can now be covered in just a few hours

Oviedo, Catholic Spain’s oldest city, is an architectural jewel. At its heart the sprawling Gothic cathedral towers over a labyrinth of narrow streets

hills and outcrops, this is the perfect lunch-stop for sustaining mountain fare. From here, it is onwards to access the extraordinary Caminito del Rey, a vertiginous, 3km-long walkway attached to cliffs high above a gorge. A shuttle bus at the other end returns you to the car park. Then it’s west to Ronda through the wild Sierra de las Nieves – beware of goats! To avoid the throngs in Ronda, consider staying in peaceful Ardales, beautiful Carratraca (a spa town since the Romans) or El Burgo, surrounded by dramatic outcrops.

Just west of Ronda, beyond a forest where pigs snuffle among cork and holm oaks, another ring of pueblos blancos studs the Sierra de Grazalema, source of the highly rated

– or less. Added to this are the cercanias, or local train networks, which spirit travellers to country towns and little known destinations. In particularly mountainous areas, however, a car is the only option, so consider renting an electric vehicle, now widely available. Charging points in Spain total nearly 25,000 – find them via the app. Energetic travellers should consider cycling or hiking along Spain’s ever-expanding network of vias verdes (greenways). These disused railway lines are a relaxing and healthy way to enjoy the countryside. Climatically, aim for low or mid season in the hotter regions of the south; Andalucia, for example, often has clear sunny days throughout the winter. The north is where to go during the warmer months.

LAS MÉDULAS, A UNESCO WORLD HERITAGE SITE

Get to know MOROCCO

WHAT’S IT ALL ABOUT?

Morocco is just a three-hour flight from the UK and yet it feels a whole world away. Ancient medinas offer cultural insights at every turn. Watch the craftsmen carrying out centuries-old trades, hear the twang of distant gnawa music, be drawn to the glow of lamps or catch the scent of aromatic spices heaped upon tables in the souk. While Marrakesh attracts the stylish set, the country’s rural landscapes are just as epic, ranging from dramatic surf beaches to soaring mountain ranges, such as the Atlas and Rif, with nomadic desert communities and surprisingly lush valleys in between.

ARTY MOROCCO

Morocco has long inspired artists and Casablanca’s Art School famously pioneered a new generation in the 70s. Today the city has a street art scene and great galleries, such as Atelier 21 and Villa Des Arts. Marrakesh is awash with galleries, from the Matisse gallery to L’Blassa, a new contemporary art space, while Essaouira is also a must for art fans – start with Galerie la Kasbah and Centre d’art le Real Mogador.

CINEMATIC LANDSCAPES

Ouarzazate lies on the edge of the Sahara Desert and is known as the ‘Hollywood of Morocco’, with films such as Gladiator and Babel shot here. The landscape that inspired the film sets can be visited from the Skoura Oasis, a UNESCO-listed palm grove home to ruined, rammed-earth kasbahs.

CHEFCHAOUEN

LESSERVISITED MEDINAS

In Northern Morocco, Tetouan is a city of whitewashed buildings on the slopes of the Rif mountains, with a UNESCO-protected medina that’s been exceptionally well preserved (it’s the oldest part of a city, often walled and with narrow streets, tiny alleyways and many mosques and souks). Inside, there’s an open-air tannery and a maze-like souk. The city also contains examples of fine Spanish architecture.

Nicknamed the ‘blue pearl’, Chefchaouen (pictured left) is unmistakable for its indigo-painted buildings and azure city walls. Though it does receive daytrippers, the medina is a smaller, charming place for an overnight stay, with five gates, a square and a kasbah museum with gardens. Try lunch on a terrace with mountain views.

Rabat’s medina is tightly packed within a modern city. Amid the fortified walls are souks, artisan shops, an adjacent kasbah that overlooks the sea and a puzzle of streets. Rue des Consuls is famous for its handicrafts, such as carpets, pottery and silver jewellery.

TAKE A HIKE

For remote, starry skies not far from Marrakesh, the Atlas mountains are an incredible hiking destination. Treks in the lush Ourika and Imlil valleys can range from two-hour walks past villages to ascents of Mount Toubkal, at 4,167m in the High Atlas.

The Rif mountains, in the north, offer more off-thebeaten-track hikes that are best done with a guide, for example through the Talassemtane National Park.

A TALE OF TWO COASTS

Morocco is blessed with two coastlines. Rugged beaches along the Atlantic side have big waves that attract surfers, with towns like Taghazout known for their laid-back atmosphere. Morocco’s Mediterranean side, meanwhile, is calmer

and has beaches that are better for swimming. An hour and a half’s drive south-east of Tangier is M’diq, where new resort hotels have sprung up along a golden stretch of sand that are good for a family beach break.

Moroccan food is influenced by Arab, Amazigh, Andalusian and Mediterranean cuisine, so it has a history all of its own

BEYOND THE TAGINE

Moroccan food is rich and varied, with a mix of influences. Try pastilla, a savoury and sweet pastry filled with ground pigeon or chicken, eggs, almonds and cinnamon. Briouat are baked or fried pastries, a bit like samosas, or tangia is a classic dish from Marrakesh, a slow-cooked stew with mutton or beef traditionally cooked underground.

CHICKEN PASTILLA

THE ATLAS MOUNTAINS

RABAT

POSTCARD FROM SYDNEY, AUSTRALIA

WORDS BY ANNA WATT

Having last visited Sydney as a backpacker over 20 years ago, my visit this time feels very different. I’m spending my time rediscovering old haunts, exploring the very best this city has to offer, and doing lots and lots of walking. It starts with a refreshing early morning walk around the Botanical Gardens, an oasis of nature right next to the bustling city centre. It’s also a great way to shake off that dreaded jet lag. Spanning an extensive 74 acres, this is the largest botanic garden in Australia and has spectacular floral displays year-round. When in Sydney it’s essential to get out on the water, so we take the commuter boat from Circular Quay to Watsons Bay, east of the city, where we follow the Sydney Coastal Path north. We pass

Beach, where I based myself all those years ago. There are now a lot more designer clothes shops, high-end beauty salons and fancy eateries than I remember, but the beach remains as beautiful as ever. Well fuelled, we head south to walk from Bondi

The CBD is a great place to base yourself, being just moments from the Botanical Gardens, Circular Quay, the Sydney Opera House and the city’s extensive shopping district

For lunch in Bondi head to Speedos Café, with fantastic beach views it boasts of being the world’s most Instagrammable café

Camp Cove Beach, with its incredible views of the city, and Lady Bay Beach (a local nudist spot) before reaching the historic red and whitestriped Hornby Lighthouse. Back at Watsons Bay, it’s a short bus journey for a reminiscent trip to Bondi

through Sydney’s eastern suburbs to Coogee Beach. The route takes in spectacular cliff-top views, and plenty of beaches and parks, as well as passing some magnificent beachfront houses that you can dream of moving into once that lottery win comes in. Walk complete, we reward ourselves with a bite to eat at the trendy Coogee Pavilion’s rooftop bar.

Back in the city, no visit to Sydney is complete without drinks at the worldfamous Opera Bar, with its water-side views of the Opera House, Harbour Bridge and Circular Quay. It’s the perfect place to complete my walk down memory lane.

COOGEE BEACH

HORNBY LIGHTHOUSE

BONDI COASTAL PATH

SPOTLIGHT ON... INDIA’S GOLDEN TRIANGLE AND VOLUNTEERING WITH WILDLIFE SOS

Combine getting to know the icons of India’s famous Golden Triangle with volunteering with Wildlife SOS, immersing yourself with the charity for five days to help elephants and sloth bears at its centres in Agra and Mathura. This 15-day tour promises to be an experience of a lifetime!

Within India’s Golden Triangle, set in the diverse north of this magnificent country, is Delhi. Here, you’ll take a rickshaw and walking tour, experiencing the character of Old Delhi, weaving through the narrow alleyways and picking your way through Chandni Chowk, one of the oldest and busiest markets in Old Delhi.

Book it!

This exclusive Charitable Travel tour of India’s Golden Triangle and five days volunteering with Wildlife SOS runs from 14-28 November 2024, and is from £1,439pp excluding flights. Book it charitable.travel/explore-india-and-here: volunteer-with-wildlife-sos/

From Delhi, you’ll travel to Agra – home to the mighty Taj Mahal, best viewed at sunrise to wonder at its intricately decorated marble that creates many an optical illusion – before touring the spectacular hillside Amber Fort and Sheesh Mahal (Hall of Mirrors).

Wildlife SOS has 12 centres and facilities across India, and in the Golden Triangle is both the Elephant Conservation and Care Centre and the Agra Bear Rescue Facility, where you’ll get the chance to spend valuable time with the staff, volunteering to support their work with elephants and sloth bears.

After five days of rewarding work, the tour heads to romantic Jaipur, with its pink-hued architecture and 18th century observatory. Here, you’ll have a rural heritage stay in charming Rajasthan before going to the Ranthambore National Park for two nights, taking morning and evening game drives to spot local wildlife.

ORLANDO All about

OThrills beyond

the

theme parks – Tamara

Hinson takes us on a tour of Florida’s foremost city of fun to discover a world beyond Disney

rlando has long been known as the theme park capital of the world, but there’s so much more to this Floridian city than rollercoasters and character parades. For starters, it has one of the Sunshine State’s most diverse food scenes but also, thanks to the new Brightline train service, it’s easy to combine Orlando with destinations such as Fort Lauderdale and Miami. Although when a city’s got this much to offer, we’re fully in favour of staying put…

GO DOWNTOWN

Buzzing downtown Orlando is a destination in its own right. This is where you’ll find West Church

Street and South Magnolia Avenue with some of the city’s hippest bars, including Mathers Social Gathering, a speakeasy-inspired cocktail bar inside a building that dates back to the 1800s. Downtown Orlando is also home to the Dr. Phillips Center for the Performing Arts. Since 2022, this huge arts venue has been home to one of the world’s most hi-tech concert halls –the Steinmetz Hall. It’s effectively a concert hall inside a concert hall – a soundproofed space built on top of a rubber membrane that shields it from outside noise. It’s said that if you were to sit in the venue when it’s empty, you’d be able to hear your own heart beating. Whether you’d want to or not remains to be seen,

but trust us, you’d struggle to find a venue with better acoustics. It always has a packed calendar of concerts, and Jennifer Hudson, London’s Royal Philharmonic Orchestra and the Chinese pianist Yuja Wang are just some of the acts who’ve performed here.

HIP ‘HOODS

Venture beyond Orlando’s theme parks and you’ll be richly rewarded with colourful neighbourhoods. Mills 50 is a case in point – it’s a district just to north of central downtown and is famous for its enormous rainbow-hued murals, although the artwork isn’t just confined to the walls. Here, everything from manholes to

telegraph poles have been given a lick of (very bright) paint, and it’s home to the city’s AsianAmerican and Pacific community. College Park, meanwhile, is known for its independent boutiques (including numerous fantastic thrift stores), while Lake Nona is one of Orlando’s most up-and-coming neighbourhoods. This is where you’ll find the brilliant Boxi Park, with its live music, delicious street food and volleyball courts, and is just a short walk from one of the city’s coolest crash-pads – the Lake Nona Wave Hotel. Here, you’ll find a public 50,000 square-foot outdoor sculpture garden that’s free to access. Its pièce de résistance is one of Arturo Di Modica’s Charging Bull sculptures

LAKE EOLA, DOWNTOWN ORLANDO

It’s a myth that Orlando’s food scene revolves around Mickey Mouse-shaped cupcakes and supersized burgers, proof of which is the city’s growing number of Michelin-starred restaurants

(you’ll find its most famous sibling in New York City’s Financial District).

Lastly, don’t miss the Milk District, a foodies’ paradise with four Michelin Guide-listed restaurants. Our favourites include the Se7en Bites bakery for southern-style comfort food and the Milkhouse, a slick food hall serving up delicious dishes from around the world.

EXPLORE INTERNATIONAL DRIVE

International Drive is a popular base for theme park fans because of its proximity to parks such as Universal Studios Florida and the Universal Volcano Bay Water Park, both of which are served by free shuttle services offered by many International Drive hotels. But there are other reasons to base yourself here, including Dezerland, an International Drive institution which is Florida’s largest indoor attraction. Here, kids will love the Pinball Palace, which has over 90 machines, while speed demons flock to the indoor go-karting track. Other Dezerland attractions include a glow-in-the-dark mini golf, an ice-skating rink and the Orlando Auto Museum, which has over 2,000 vehicles (don’t miss the world’s largest collection of screen-used James Bond cars).

Heading to International Drive’s Dezerland? Don’t miss the Torino used in Starsky and Hutch, the Batmobile or the Scooby Doo Mystery Machine. We’re also huge fans of International Drive’s

ORLANDO

KABOOKI SUSHI

Icon Park. Its most popular attractions include the Orlando Eye (book your ride at sunset for the best views over this part of the Sunshine State), Madame Tussauds Orlando and (for the brave) Slingshot Orlando, which involves being strapped into a seat and catapulted 137 metres into the air, reaching speeds of 100mph in under two seconds.

Partial to a good old-fashioned hoedown? Head over to Ole Red, a live music venue owned by country music star Blake Shelton. Highlights include the regular line-dancing masterclasses, live performances every night and the mechanical bull (best avoided if you’ve overdone the vodka-based Hillbilly Seltzers, one of Ole Red’s most popular tipples).

POSH NOSH

It’s a myth that Orlando’s food scene revolves around Mickey Mouse-shaped cupcakes and supersized burgers, proof of which is the city’s growing number of Michelin-starred restaurants. These include Kadence, an omakase-style place in Audubon Park Garden District, where guests place their trust in the sushi chef to create them a personal meal; Papa Llama, in the Curry Ford West district, that specialises in Peruvian cuisine; and Capa Steakhouse at the Four Seasons Resort Orlando at Walt Disney World Resort.

The best bit? Some of America’s top chefs are clamouring to open restaurants here. Recent examples include Puerto Rican chef Mario Pagan, the star of hit American TV series Next Iron Chef. In late 2023 Pagan opened Chayote Barrio Kitchen in Winter Park. Hispanic cuisine is the focus here – we recommend the panko-

dusted Chilean sea bass with truffle-buttered yuca mousse.

Or there’s Chef Peter Song, founder of New York’s legendary KungFu Kitchen. Fans of his xiao long bao can now get their fix at Song’s new restaurant in Lake Buena Vista.

SHOP UNTIL YOU DROP

The Orlando International Premium Outlets and Orlando Vineyard Premium Outlets are both great spots to grab a bargain – you’ll find all your favourite brands here, with huge discounts on offer. A top tip? Sign up for the VIP Shopper Club – both outlet malls are owned by Simon Premium Outlets and by doing so you’ll access further fantastic discounts.

Alternatively, head to the vibrant neighbourhood of College Park to explore some of Orlando’s best independent boutiques. Our favourites include

CAPA STEAKHOUSE & BAR

ORLANDO VINELAND PREMIUM OUTLETS

The interconnected lakes out at Winter Park can be explored on guided boat tours designed to provide an insight into the history of the area and the stories behind its grandest properties

WINTER PARK SCENIC BOAT TOUR

Freehand Goods, where almost everything –ranging from the beautiful soaps to the children’s clothing – is made in Florida. Ivanhoe Village is known for its vintage and thrift stores while the East End Market in Audubon Park Garden District is another great place for some Florida-themed retail therapy. Our favourite stores here include Carla Poma Jewelry and The Owl’s Attic (famous for its vintage t-shirts), and there’s no shortage of cafes and bars when energy levels start to flag. Try Dochi for the delicious Japanese mochi doughnuts.

PARK LIFE

Winter Park is technically a separate town, but it’s just a 25-minute drive from Orlando’s International Drive, and certainly worthy of being on your radar. Highlights include its impossibly quaint high street, the spectacular architecture and its interconnected lakes. The latter can be explored on guided boat tours designed to provide an insight into the history of the area and the stories behind its grandest properties. Architectural treasures on the lakes’ shores include the revival-style Edward Hill Brewer House, built in the 1800s and listed on the National Register of Historic Places. Brewer, an industrialist, was keen to escape New York’s brutal winters but his wife wasn’t as enthusiastic. She agreed only after her husband promised to kit out their new Winter Park mansion with a ballroom that was an exact replica of the one at their New York home.

There’s also the lakeside Rollins College, a prestigious liberal arts college. The brilliant guides on the boat tour love reeling off fascinating anecdotes, including one about the Rollins College student unable to fit his beloved piano into his student accommodation, and whose wealthy father gifted his son one of Winter Park’s lakeside mansions as a solution.

Make sure you explore Winter Park’s high street. It’s lined with cafés, boutiques and galleries, although for many the biggest draw is the Charles Hosmer Morse Museum of American Art, which has the world’s largest collection of works by Louis Comfort Tiffany, the late American artist famous for his leaded glass lamps and stained glass windows.

THEMED FUN

There’s always something new to get excited about in the theme park capital of the world. If you’ve got little ones in tow, consider Universal Orlando Resort’s new DreamWorks Land, which opened in June 2024 and pays tribute to characters such as Shrek and Kung Fu Panda with themed rides, interactive play areas and character meet and greet zones.

Over at Walt Disney World’s Magic Kingdom Park, new rides include the music-themed Tiana’s Bayou Adventure, unveiled in late June,

while water babies will love Aquatica Orlando’s latest offering – in March 2024 the water park opened Tassie’s Underwater Twist, a digitally immersive water slide.

Planning ahead? Upcoming openings include Universal Orlando Resort’s fourth theme park, Universal Epic Universe, which will open in 2025. This is where you’ll find Super Nintendo World, the all-new The Wizarding World of Harry Potter –Ministry of Magic, and How to Train Your Dragon – Isle of Berk. There’s no shortage of places to stay, either – hot hotel openings for 2025 include the Universal Stella Nova Resort, which opens in January, and Universal Terra Luna Resort, due to open its doors a month later.

PARK AVENUE, WINTER PARK

LAKE NONA SCULPTURE GARDEN

MILLS 50 DISTRICT

FOUR VIEWS OF GRONINGEN, HOLLAND

A region and city in the north of the Netherlands, Groningen is one of the oldest man-made landscapes in Europe

GRONINGEN AND THE NIEUWE MARKT The capital of its namesake region, Groningen is home to both centuries-old buildings – the Martini Tower is a Gothic beacon, for example – and much more recent additions, including this, the Forum. It opened in 2019 and is on the Nieuwe Market, tucked in next to the Grote Markte in the city centre. It’s a formidable feat of modern architecture, and is a focal point for exhibitions, films, literary events, talk shows, a library, bars and restaurants, and more.

A BREWERY IN THE GRAIN REPUBLIC A cooperative of local farmers and entrepreneurs have come together and formed the Grain Republic (this is its brewery), to make the most of Groningen’s clay soils and change the way people think about food. Some vast grain fields can be found in Groningen but the cooperative works to diversify this intensity and instead, shift the focus so everything about the food revolves around taste, not yield. This change starts in the ground – the tastier the soil the better the taste of the produce.

Sjoerd

SLEEPING UNDER THE RAFTERS There is a host of unusual places to stay in the Groningen region – from a warehouse to an art gallery – but one of the most atmospheric has to be this transparent dome in Noordbroek’s medieval church. Providing a cosy space to sleep among the historic walls and religious paintings, the church is all yours overnight. Light sleepers are advised to bring ear plugs – the church bell in the neighbouring clock tower tolls on the hour!

BIRD WATCHING IN THE TIDAL MARSHES The tidal marshes near Drieborg are teeming with natural waterways and a rich marsh ecosystem that’s ideal for birdlife. Here you’ll find Kiekkaaste, the only Dutch birdwatching hut situated outside the dykes. Set where the salt water of the Wadden Sea meets the fresh water of the Eems river, it’s a UNESCO World Heritage Site and is home to a diverse mix of plants, birds, fish and more. Keep your eyes peeled for seal and porpoises, and catch this golden glow at sun set.

Sjoerd Bracke

POSTCARD FROM KAUAI, HAWAII

WORDS BY MELISSA TILLING

Aloha from Kauai, in the Hawaiian archipelago! We land in Lihue (pronounced Li-hoo-ee), greeted by warm, breezy weather perfect for exploring.

Kauai, known as the Garden Island, is the oldest of the Hawaiian Islands, and its lush landscapes are a testament to its age and beauty. Our base is in Kapa’a, a charming and relaxed town with shops, cafes, and art galleries. A bike ride along the Kapa’a Coastal Path offers stunning ocean views, a shave ice at Wailua Shave Ice is refreshing and the beach at our hotel receives a regular daytime visitor, a monk seal we name Neil, who basks on the shore.

its gentle waves and breathtaking mountain backdrop. If you’re into snorkelling, Tunnels Beach is the place to be. For a more relaxed beach day, we visit Poipu Beach on the south shore, with calm waters perfect for swimming.

Kauai’s lush landscapes might seem familiar if you’re a fan of Jurassic Park. We visit the Manawaiopuna Falls, also known as Jurassic Falls, and feel like we’re

One of the most memorable experiences is a boat tour along the Nā Pali Coast – its rugged cliffs tumble into the Pacific

Our first adventure takes us to Waimea Canyon, often called the ‘Grand Canyon of the Pacific’. The views of the dramatic red and green landscapes stretch as far as the eye can see. The beaches here are everything I hope for and more. Hanalei Bay quickly becomes a favourite with

stepping into the movie. The island is incredibly drivable, making it easy to explore at our own pace and discover hidden gems along the way.

Food in Kauai doesn’t disappoint. Bar Acuda in Hanalei serves some of the best tapas I’ve ever had. For a quick bite, Da Crack in Poipu offers amazing burritos and bowls. The fish tacos at Kilauea Fish Market are out of this world. To unwind, we enjoy a cold Kona Beer or a classic Mai Tai, both of which are island favourites and perfect for soaking up the tropical vibe.

JURASSIC PARK LANDSCAPES AT MANAWAIOPUNA FALLS

NEIL, THE SEAL

The Travel Insider Podcast

DISCOVER

Jersey

In this episode of the TIPs podcast we travel to Jersey, the curiously Brit...(ish) island in the English Channel. It’s a place that’s familiar, but with a delightfully continental twist, and it’s a place where you’ll quickly and easily feel on holiday. The largest of the channel Islands, Jersey is also the sunniest spot in the British Isles and is

close to the UK mainland. Once on the island, you’re never more than 10 minutes from the beach – be it golden sandy bays in the south or sheltered coves in the north and east. But Jersey isn’t just about its coastline, so joining the podcast to talk about everything this island offers is Kary Day, a Blue Badge tour guide, and Sarah Barton from Visit Jersey. LISTEN NOW

WONDERS OF West

SUSTAINABLE SPECIAL

Sweden

For a cooler summer alternative try West Sweden, a region that is 1.9 times the size of the UK, and has not just a beautiful long coastline stretching from Gothenburg up to the border with Norway, but also lots of forests, lakes and fishing villages that naturally champion a more sustainable way of life.

Here, nature is intrinsically valued and championed across all parts of life, and as a consequence

Joining Bec to talk about the many joys of West Sweden are Robert Cullen from the West Sweden Tourist Board, and Ingela and Markus Holgersson, who own the Skärgårdsidyllen Kayak and Outdoors Company. LISTEN

sustainable tourism isn’t an added extra, it’s simply how things are. Visiting here doesn’t need to be distinguished as eco tourism, it’s just tourism, done really, really well.

South Africa

Explore culture, nature and adventure

Explore South Africa’s captivating tapestry of culture, nature and adventure. From the vibrant streets of Johannesburg, to the majestic Table Mountain in Cape Town, every corner holds a story. Dive into rich history, spot the Big Five on safari, or unwind on breathtaking beaches.

WESTERN CAPE & KRUGER

The Commodore Cape Town HHHH

Oude Werf, Stellenbosch HHHH

Whale Rock Luxury Lodge, Hermanus HHHH

Radisson Blu Hotel, Johannesburg HHHH

4-days Kruger Park Explorer

11 nights from £3,269pp

Includes Cape Point & Peninsula Tour, Full Day Vine Hopper and Whale Watch Tour. Flights with British Airways. Valid for departure 01 Sep 2024. Based on two adults sharing.

Book with Charitable Travel to create your dream South Africa holiday today

BREATHLESS CANCUN SOUL RESORT & SPA

A cosmopolitan beach experience awaits at one of the most stylish Cancun all-inclusive resorts, nestled between the Caribbean Sea and Nichupte Lagoon on Mexico’s Yucatan peninsula. Surrounded by sleek décor with neutral accents, this beachfront haven with 429 suites is the perfect destination for socially sophisticated travellers wanting to experience lively and luxe downtown vibes. Featuring relaxing and opulent beach views, Breathless Cancun Soul Resort & Spa is conveniently located just 25 minutes from the airport and two miles from the heart of vibrant Cancun. Take your place at either of the two rooftop infinity pools and be inspired by the skyline views.

Breathless Resorts & Spas are committed to redefining and elevating the all-inclusive experience. With UnlimitedLuxury® you can have it all – all the time. Top-shelf cocktails at chic bars and restaurants, limitless gourmet dining, 24-hour room service, inspiring entertainment and more are right at your fingertips. Experience a vibrant beachfront getaway at Breathless Cancun Soul Resort & Spa® Cancun where city chic meets creative indulgence.

Seven nights from £2,209pp

(Subject to availability)

With direct flights, private transfers, ATOL protection, and unlimited luxury in a junior suite for two adults from £2,209 and a £220 donation to charity

Find out more at offers.charitable.travel/weeklyoffers/7-nights-unlimitedluxury-in-cancun

Unlimited-Luxury® inclusions

429 sumptuous suites

Three swimming pools

Ten dining options

Ten trendy bars

Pool and beach wait service

24-hour room and concierge services

Limitless access to a la carte dining with no reservations required

Unlimited curated cocktails and premium spirits

Exciting daytime and nighttime entertainment and social scene

High energy events and themed parties hosted by live DJs

Fitness classes and sports activities

Recharge at relax Spa*

*treatments at extra cost

Mexico

MAGIC

What plans and developments are coming up for Breathless Cancun Soul Resort & Spa?

We are excited about the upcoming developments and brand refresh planned for Breathless Cancun Soul. At this time, we recognise our guests’ sensitivity to energies and strive to provide them with a personalised connection.

Our focus is on continually enhancing the guest experience by introducing innovative and exciting features. Through this brand refresh, we aim for our guests to feel the unique spirit of Breathless, ensuring memorable and personalised experiences. We value our guests’ digital connection with the brand and are committed to creating a fresh, modern, and energetic image.

The Breathless Cancun Soul is in a special place on Mexico’s Caribbean coast. What sustainability measures have been implemented at the resort?

At Breathless Cancun Resort & Spa, we’ve implemented several sustainability features to minimise our environmental impact. This includes energy-efficient lighting and appliances, water conservation practices, waste reduction and recycling programmes, and initiatives such as donating food waste to a local farm for pig consumption to reduce landfill waste.

Charitable Traveller talks to Javier Navarro, director of sales at Breathless Cancun Soul Resort & Spa, about what guests can expect from this modern, vibey resort

What attracted you to working at Breathless Cancun? Since its opening, I’ve been drawn to Breathless Cancun Soul because I feel the hotel has its own soul. Located between the lagoon and the sea, it creates a unique energetic atmosphere. It’s a vibrant and welcoming place that feels like home.

One of the standout features of Breathless Cancun Soul for many guests is its vibrant and energetic atmosphere, complemented perfectly by luxurious amenities and exceptional service. As a member of the Breathless Cancun Soul team, I find that each workday is a new adventure, where variety and excitement are always present. Here, the lively ambiance and stunning views of the sea and lagoon blend to create a true paradise, making each workday unique and thrilling.

Lastly, where’s your favourite place to be in the Breathless Cancun Soul?

It’s tough to choose but I think I’ll go with the Silk City restaurant. It serves Pan-Asian cuisine in an elegant atmosphere and is located on the top floor of the skyline tower with breathtaking views to the hotel zone and Cancun city, so it’s a great place to enjoy amazing sunsets. It has two teppanyaki tables, a sushi station and is open exclusively to xhale Club guests for breakfast.

SUSTAINABILITY? DO LABELS MATTER IN

WORDS BY Sarah Loftus

Call it what you will – green, eco, responsible or sustainable travel – we want to know that everything we’re doing, where we’re staying and what we’re eating is not having a detrimental impact on the beautiful places we’re visiting. We also want to know that our time spent in the destination will contribute directly to the local economy and benefit its communities.

So how do we find such beacons of sustainability? How can hotels, restaurants, activity and transport providers demonstrate their ecocredentials and commitment to their place? Ideally, what we’re looking for is a definitive symbol of commitment towards sustainable best practice; something that

demonstrates that they really are ‘walking the talk’.

Over the past 30 years, sustainable tourism certification has become increasingly significant in the hospitality industry, with the aim of helping consumers make informed decisions about the tourism experiences they choose. In fact, we could say there’s now an abundance of such schemes and labels.

But what are they, and how do they work? Fairtrade is probably the best known example of a product certification – something we see every day in our food shopping. You’re probably familiar with the Rainforest Alliance seal and B Corp status too. But here we take a look at some of the more well established schemes that are operating within the tourism and hospitality industry.

International tourism certificates

TRAVELIFE

About A global accommodation sustainability certification body, Travelife is a wholly owned subsidiary of ABTA, the UK travel association. For hotels only, Travelife was designed by the tourism industry for the tourism industry.

Where Around 1,500 certified hotels in 50 countries, with a large representation across Europe, growing in the Americas, Africa and Indian Ocean, and Asia-Pacific.

Focus Six steps to Gold Certification focus on emissions, biodiversity, human rights, fair labour, child safeguarding and animal welfare, based on the Global Sustainable Tourism Council criteria.

Verification Independent audits undertaken by trained Travelife auditors.

GREEN KEY

About Developed from a national tourism initiative in Denmark to become an international eco-label, managed by the Foundation for Environmental Education (FEE*), Green Key is recognised by the UN World Tourism Organization and UNEP.

Where In 65+ countries with over 4800 accommodations,

attractions, restaurants and conference centres. Widely used in Europe as well as Mexico.

Focus All aspects of environmental management as well as staff involvement, guest information and Corporate Social Responsibility.

Verification On-site audits conducted by Green Key auditors and third party verification.

*FEE also operates the international Blue Flag scheme.

GREEN GLOBE

About Based in California with partners in the Americas, South Africa, Middle East, the Caribbean and Europe, the Green Globe certification brand is owned by Green Globe Ltd UK.

Where Over 600 members in 80 countries, including attractions, meeting venues, accommodations, restaurants, golf courses, spa and health centres, transport companies, cruise ships and supply chain businesses. Countries with large memberships include France, Germany, Netherlands, the Maldives and Caribbean.

Focus Saving resources and improving business for guests, staff and the community. The Standard has 44

criteria in four groups: environmental, sustainable management, social economic, cultural heritage.

Verification 120 auditors globally provide third-party, independent on-site audits, as well as consulting services supporting implementation of the standard.

EARTH CHECK

About An Australian benchmarking certification and advisory group for destinations and tourism organisations, running several programmes such as EarthCheck ECO for eco-tourism operators, EarthCheck Destination and EarthCheck Design for tourism building projects.

Where Over 800 certified tourism businesses in over 80 countries, from accommodations, destinations, events and governments to developers and building designers, land and marine parks. A large proportion of members are in Australia, Mexico, across the Caribbean and Spain, growing in China and across Europe.

Focus Environmental protection, local employment, purchasing local products and services and minimising carbon footprint.

Verification The entry level programme is a self-guided assessment. Destinations are visited by EarthCheck independent auditors.

Sustainable buildings

BREEAM and LEED are two certification systems focusing on the performance of buildings, evaluating all aspects of a building’s sustainability from initial siting and design to how they’re used. BREEAM originated as a British certificate while LEED is designed specifically for buildings in the USA. They can be applied to individual buildings, multi-use developments and whole neighbourhoods. More than 200 British and international hotels have registered for a BREEAM assessment while there are over 3,650 LEED‐certified and registered lodgings and hotel projects, predominately in the USA.

Country specific eco-labels and certification schemes

With so many individual schemes operating at a country level, we could write another article. They are to be found in just about every country in the world, from France, Germany and Italy to Botswana, Malaysia, Costa Rica and every part of the Caribbean. Here are a few to be getting on with:

Audubon International runs several certification schemes including the Green Lodging Program and Green Hospitality Program in the USA. This was the first organisation to work extensively with golf courses and, of their nearly 900 members, the majority are golf clubs and resorts.

The Green Tourism Business Scheme (GTBS) is the best known certification scheme in the UK, with over 3000 members. There’s also the David Bellamy Blooming Marvellous Pledge for Nature for camping sites and holiday parks, and the Greener Camping Club.

The Nordic Swan Ecolabel is a Nordic joint organisation run by five local organisations in Denmark, Finland, Iceland, Norway and Sweden. It is considered one of the worlds toughest environmental certifications. It applies to all products and services, with specific criteria devised for hotels and other accommodation.

A final note

Membership of certification schemes is voluntary, so of course there are tourism businesses that choose not to implement a standard or label. This doesn’t mean to say they are not mindful of their impacts. It’s just worth noting that eco-certification is not a failsafe way of identifying eco-minded businesses.

A big concern is the potential for greenwashing, i.e.

making misleading claims about environmental and social performance for marketing purposes, whilst not making any real sustainable efforts. It brings into question how rigorous the standards for awarding a certification might be. For example, relying on self-certification without independent verification might allow a company to claim sustainable practices without actually implementing meaningful changes. It is therefore worth identifying certifications that have a thorough evaluation process. But it’s worth remembering that those working with a credible certification scheme are investing a lot of time and effort in the process. The resources required for ongoing audits, reporting and investigations are significant and, ultimately, demonstrate the large commitment they are making. As such, they could help you make an informed travel choice!

Still confused? Well Sustainable Journeys can help navigate this minefield and help make better holiday choices with sustainability baked in.

Feeling inspired to travel better? Browse the lower carbon itineraries available to book with Sustainable Journeys at SustainableJourneys.co.uk

A DAY IN THE LIFE OF...

Sambat Meas, manager of APOPO’s visitor centre in Cambodia

In the shadow of the glorious Angkor Wat temple, amid the bustling charm of Siem Reap, lies an unusual but no less important attraction: the APOPO Visitor Centre (VC). Rather than focusing on Cambodia’s majestic architecture and history, here the stars are a team of cute, twitchy African giant pouched rats, which APOPO trains to detect deadly landmines lurking beneath the ground.

Sambat Meas is the manager, and part of a unique global initiative that employs these rats, otherwise known as HeroRATs, to sniff out the explosives used to set off landmines. The landmines are remnants of Cambodia’s 20th century conflicts and while it is now safe for tourists to visit the country, daily life in its rural areas is still fraught with danger.

I joined APOPO in 2017, initially working as a tour guide at the VC before taking the helm of Siem Reap’s VC in 2019. Here, we educate Cambodians and international visitors about APOPO’s innovative solution to the tragic legacy that still scars the country.

I was introduced to APOPO’s work at a presentation by a volunteer who introduced me to the concept of HeroRATs, and was amazed how the rats can use their sense of smell to detect landmines and save lives.

The Cambodian Mine Action Centre (CMAC) estimates that there may be as many as six million landmines and other pieces of unexploded ordnance across Cambodia, and the fact these rats are capable of safely and efficiently identifying landmines without setting them off is incredible. Managing the APOPO VC is no small task. We run around 17 tours

daily, and my routine involves meticulous planning and constant problem-solving. From ensuring the rats’ health and welfare to managing a growing team of staff, my days are busy.

What captures the visitors’ interest the most are the demonstrations of the rats’ landmine-detection skills. Seeing them in action challenges visitors’ preconceptions about rats and highlights their contribution to humanitarian work, and I love to see the transformation in visitors’ perceptions from skepticism to admiration. Visitors also get a chance to handle and take pictures with our adorable APOPO rats. Some people who arrive hate rats, but then they end the tour loving our rats!

APOPO also plays a larger role locally, which is important to me, and we’re deeply involved in community work, from mine risk education initiatives to supporting local farmers in postclearance areas. The VC itself is an embodiment of sustainable practices and community support. Every team member is hired and trained locally and the VC promotes local artisans and environmentally friendly policies.

The APOPO VC is more than just a

Find out more APOPO saves lives by training animals to rid the world of landmines and tuberculosis. Take a tour of its Visitor Centre in Cambodia to see its work in charitable.travel/apopo-ukaction

tourist attraction; it’s a way of understanding the complexities of Cambodia’s past and the innovative strides being made towards a safer future. I believe that visitors to Siem Reap, drawn by its historical allure, should also make time for the contemporary African heroes contributing to the nation’s recovery. Siem Reap is the spot to stop for history, but APOPO and the HeroRATs are focused on a safe future for Cambodia.

The hardest part…

Was the fight to keep the VC open during the Covid pandemic, but thanks to my team’s hard work, we were able to recover quickly.

The best bit…

Is the opportunity to educate and inspire visitors

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VOLUNTEER EXPLORE

FIVE CHARITIES SUPPORTING ANIMAL WELFARE IN THE UK

1

BUGLIFE The only organisation in Europe devoted to the conservation of all invertebrates, Buglife’s aim is to halt extinctions and achieve sustainable populations. Invertebrates are vital to a healthy planet – we and other life forms couldn’t survive without them, they underpin life on earth, and they’re essential to the world’s ecosystems. By promoting the environmental importance of invertebrates, assisting with legislation and policy to conserve them, and carrying out practical conservation projects, Buglife works towards reversing

2

CATS PROTECTION

Helping around 200,000 cats and kittens each year through its network of around 230 branches and 37 centres, Cats Protection is the leading cat welfare charity in the UK. It cares for abandoned, unwanted and neglected cats and kittens, providing them with the food, shelter and veterinary treatment they need until they’re adopted into loving new homes. The charity also works to tackle the challenging issue of controlling the population of unwanted cats in

3

DOGS TRUST The UK’s largest dog welfare charity, Dogs Trust cares for over 14,000 dogs across its network of 21 rehoming centres. Focusing on three main areas, Dogs Trust helps dogs in distress, dogs who need a new home, and owners who need a helping hand, by providing training, advice and outreach projects. The charity also works to improve the understanding of dogs, and shares that knowledge with the wider public to help prevent problem behaviours that can lead to relinquishment or abandonment.

4

Find more great causes at charitable.travel

NATUREWATCH FOUNDATION

Aiming to end animal cruelty and advance welfare standards in the UK and around the world, Naturewatch Foundation launched World Animal Day in 2003 to unite the animal welfare movement around the globe. In addition, the charity has been publishing its Compassionate Shopping Guide for more than 25 years, which gives consumers peace of mind in their purchasing decisions, and coordinates education, police training and public awareness campaigns to make the world a fairer place for all living creatures. charitable.travel/naturewatch-foundation/

5

TOGETHER FOR ANIMALS Together for Animals works to help save animals from disease, neglect and abuse by raising much-needed funds for its member charities. Animals contribute so much to our mental and physical wellbeing, and by working collectively Together for Animals provides an easy and effective way of helping cats, dogs, donkeys and horses in need, and ensuring they are treated with the respect and kindness they deserve. charitable.travel/together-for-animals

Tackling the Ride London-Essex 100 cycle ride gave Greg Browne the means to say thanks to Great Ormond Street Hospital’s staff for the care they gave his daughter

WHY I DONATE...

I was bamboozled into signing up for the Ride London 100 bike ride by a friend, but immediately realised this would be my way to say thank you to GOSH (Great Ormond Street Hospital). The support the staff at GOSH gave my family when we needed it most was life affirming, and it’s humbling to experience the magic they work.

GOSH is a children’s hospital in central London, and it’s one of the best in Europe. Ideally, you don’t want to have to go there, but if you do, you’re in safe hands. They help families in the darkest moments of their lives, and while it’s amazing the way they take care of the kids in a welcoming and calming environment, it’s also incredible how they take care of the parents, metaphorically holding our hands through the whole very scary process. My partner and I ended up in GOSH with our daughter Ava, when she was three months old. She had a lifethreatening health scare that led to her being hospitalised at our local hospital and a whole battery of tests were run on her. It was terrifying for us – I mean, I was still white-knuckled from becoming a parent only a few months before – and it all felt very serious and very scary. Ava understandably found the whole thing really upsetting, we weren’t kept informed of what was happening, and

the hospital was clearly under-resourced. The whole thing left us all pretty traumatised.

How you can help

To find out more about the work and impact of the Great Ormond Street Hospital charity, visit gosh.org

Thanks to all the tests they ran, they discovered Ava had a completely unrelated heart issue – one of the holes in her heart (that we’re all born with) hadn’t healed as it’s supposed to, and it meant Ava potentially needed open heart surgery. On top of everything else, we were devastated. But, thanks to a quirk of luck, we were referred to GOSH and everything shifted for us.

I could wax lyrical for hours about how wonderful the staff were – for example, Ava had developed a real fear of hospital equipment but the staff were incredible at making what could be a scary test into a fun, almost game-like experience for her. It was wonderful to see them put her at ease, and that of course put us at ease too. They kept us informed at every step, gave us a rundown of what was going to happen, what they were looking for and what the impact could be, and I can’t praise the staff enough for their grace, warmth and professionalism.

We were fortunate – our story had a very happy ending. Ava didn’t need open heart surgery in the end, but still had

an operation under anaesthetic. We were in and out of GOSH for a while and I’ve felt indebted to them ever since.

Cycling Ride London was a baptism of fire. I went from being a casual commuter cyclist to doing 100km rides in six months and I had to quickly learn a million things, like nutrition, training and bike maintenance. It was daunting and there was a lot of jitters before the event. Yet the ride itself wasn’t anywhere near as hard as I’d thought it’d be, and cycling on closed roads with 21,000 other people was such a positive, uplifting experience. The last 25 miles were gruelling but then all of a sudden, I made one turn and the River Thames opened up. I saw the finish line on Tower Bridge, thousands of people cheering, and crossing that line felt like a big cathartic finale to the whole chain of events. I was emotional, that was for sure.

Friends and family were so generous with their donations because of our connection to GOSH, and I’m so happy to be able to give a little something back to that incredible hospital.

SUCCESS STORY

Discover more great causes at charitable.travel/great-causes

In Kind Direct and Save the Children join forces to support families during the school holidays

The school summer holidays should mean fun and freedom, but for many families it’s a period of stress and worry as they struggle to make ends meet, balancing the additional childcare needs, activities and food costs necessary when school is out.

Aiming to provide support to these children and families are In Kind Direct and Save the Children, partnering for the third consecutive year. Working alongside a range of other organisations, In Kind Direct and Save the Children’s Summer of Play programme will help to provide children with the products, activities and ideas they need to be happy, healthy and active this summer, and go back to school ready to learn.

In Kind Direct works with numerous corporate partners who donate products for the charity to distribute to its network of over 6,000 UK charitable organisations, as well as hosting free and low-cost activities on its website to help keep kids entertained.

Save the Children will be providing grant funding to 33 local community partners to organise summer activities

for families on low incomes. Last summer, this funding benefited over 6,000 children across the UK.

Parents told the two organisations that, sadly, they felt embarrassed and ashamed that their children had to go without and were cutting back on food themselves to try and provide for their children over the summer.

“The number of children growing up in poverty has risen to 4.3 million, or nine in a classroom of 30,” says Gavin Benn, head of community investment at Save the Children.

“During the summer, this means that some children who should be having fun are struggling –because parents can’t afford to provide breakfast, or the financial stress they’re under, takes its toll on their kids, however much they might try to shield them from it.

“The Summer of Play programme emphasises the importance of accessible and affordable summer activities in local communities, ensuring all children have memorable and engaging summer experiences.”

Together, the two charities are encouraging charitable organisations to sign up to In Kind Direct’s network to access the products they need to give children and families a Summer of Play.

So if you’re a charitable organisation supporting children and families this summer and need access to arts and crafts, toys and books, contact In Kind Direct for support.

PUTTING RACIAL EQUITY ON THE MENU

Lorraine Copes is the founder of Be Inclusive Hospitality, a social enterprise that works to inspire, empower, collaborate and educate those working in hospitality to build a more inclusive industry. Launched four years ago, she shares its progress so far

WHAT IS BE INCLUSIVE HOSPITALITY?

Be Inclusive Hospitality CIC is a not-forprofit organisation dedicated to building a thriving community and accelerating racial equity in hospitality, food and drink. As a social enterprise, we drive action through research, empower our community with funded programmes, and partner with organisations that commit to building a fairer and more inclusive industry. We are a community of over 1,000 members including ambassadors and mentors.

WHERE DID THE IDEA FOR BE INCLUSIVE HOSPITALITY COME FROM?

I’ve worked within the hospitality industry for the past two decades in procurement for brands such as Gordon Ramsay Restaurants, The Wolseley Hospitality Group and Shake Shack. Throughout my career, there has never been anyone who looked like me in any decision-making rooms, events, conferences, or the supply chain – other than those waiting tables. This has been the case despite hospitality technically being extremely diverse. Our own research produced in 2020 in partnership with The Resolution Foundation found that 17.83% of the industry are ethnic minorities, occupying junior roles. This

is symptomatic of a problem I was keen to raise awareness of and address.

Our aim is to ensure that the future of hospitality has more ethnically diverse senior leaders and founders, who are visible, succeeding and celebrated.

WHAT IS YOUR IMPACT?

To date, we have produced four industry reports, in partnership with think tanks and universities, collecting over 4,000 views and experiences. We have supported over 2,000 ethnically diverse employees and founders, investing more than £300,000 in mentorship, qualifications, grant funding, recognition programmes and work experience.

We collaborate with global and national organisations on a consultancy basis, and have delivered workshops for over 1,000 hospitality leaders to date.

AND HOW DO YOU HAVE THAT IMPACT?

We take a multi-pronged approach, producing research, delivering professional development programmes and working actively as an Equity, Diversity and Inclusion consultancy supporting businesses to Be Inclusive.

WHAT WOULD YOU LIKE TO SEE CHANGE/IMPROVE IN YOUR AREA?

Our aim is to see more representation of ethnically diverse talent in senior leadership

Discover more great causes at

Find out more

Join the community, become a partner, ambassador or mentor, or fundraise and donate at bihospitality.co.uk

roles and positions of influence, and this extends to business owners too.

The Inside Hospitality Report, a report we commission, found that 43% of ethnically diverse respondents believe that ethnicity has hindered career progression, one in three have witnessed or experienced racism, and only two in five respondents have accessed any

Our aim is to see more representation of ethnically diverse talent in senior leadership roles and positions of influence, and this extends to business owners too

education relating to diversity, inclusion or race. Our hope is that year on year our survey posts an improved picture.

CAN YOU GIVE AN EXAMPLE OF HOW YOU’VE HELPED A COMMUNITY?

We deliver multiple programmes each year, and we know that 98% of participants would recommend our programmes to a peer or colleague. We have a 99.5% programme completion rate and 70% go on to achieve their career or business goals, which are often related to upward social mobility, so increased

earnings or business revenue. We support a range of ethnically diverse people within a variety of sectors of hospitality.

WHAT IS YOUR BIGGEST CHALLENGE?

We face the same challenges as any other relatively young business. We are four years old in June and we are naturally keen to grow. However, bringing on the right resource at the right time is an important step for a small business and we are steadily doing so in order to drive more social change.

WHAT IS A SOCIAL ENTERPRISE TO YOU?

To me, it’s an organisation that has clear social aims and drives change through community impact.

WHAT’S NEXT FOR BE INCLUSIVE HOSPITALITY?

Growth and greater impact. We are clear on our ‘how’, and it is proving effective, yet the work we are doing is a drop in the ocean of what is possible. To do more, we need more funding, sponsorship, and partners to create a greater impact. Our work is heavily concentrated in London, and so over the coming year we are going to ensure we support members and collaborate right across the UK.

NATIONAL ENERGY ACTION

in numbers

National Energy Action (NEA), the fuel poverty charity, campaigns so everyone can afford to live in a warm, safe and healthy home. This is something denied to millions because of poor housing, low incomes and high bills. It works across England, Wales and Northern Ireland offering advice and support to fuel-poor households in England, Wales and Northern Ireland, as well as advocating for policy and regulation to protect the most vulnerable households

97%* OF CLIENTS USING OUR WARM AND SAFE HOMES (WASH) SERVICE WERE UNABLE TO KEEP THEIR HOME WARM, OR COULD ONLY DO WITH SO DIFFICULTY, AT POINT OF FIRST CONTACT WITH NATIONAL ENERGY ACTION

FIND OUT MORE ABOUT NATIONAL ENERGY ACTION AT CHARITABLE.TRAVEL/ NATIONAL-ENERGY-ACTION

89%* OF WASH CLIENTS WERE CUTTING BACK ON FOOD AND OTHER ESSENTIALS WHEN THEY CAME INTO THE SERVICE

AS

A RESULT OF THE ENERGY CRISIS, 5.6 MILLION UK

HOUSEHOLDS ARE IN FUEL POVERTY

CLIENTS ACCESSING OUR SERVICES LAST YEAR FACED A HIGHER RISK OF EXPERIENCING FUEL POVERTY, AS WELL AS BEING MORE VULNERABLE TO THE WORST OF ITS EFFECTS. OFTEN, THESE VULNERABILITIES OVERLAPPED 67%*

BEING IN FUEL POVERTY MEANS SPENDING AT LEAST 10% OF YOUR HOUSEHOLD INCOME ON KEEPING YOUR HOME WARM

HAD AN INCOME OF LESS THAN £12,000 A YEAR, AND 89% HAD AN INCOME OF LESS THAN £16,000 A YEAR 27%*

WERE SINGLE PARENTS WITH DEPENDENT CHILDREN

24.2%* HAD AT LEAST ONE CHILD UNDER THE AGE OF 5 LIVING WITH THEM  78%*

LIVED IN RENTED ACCOMMODATION – 17.4% IN THE PRIVATE RENTED SECTOR AND 61.3% IN THE SOCIAL RENTED SECTOR

75%*

HAD AT LEAST ONE HEALTH CONDITION, ADDITIONAL NEED AND/OR A DISABILITY – OFTEN, THEY HAD MORE THAN ONE

Book a holiday with a difference with Charitable Travel

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