Postcard from: Liechtenstein

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BY SARAH KIDDLE

Visiting the sixth smallest country in the world feels a little like stepping into the setting for an old-school thriller. Nestled between Switzerland and Austria, this double landlocked principality has the ironwilled ruler, fairy tale castles and rugged mountains beloved of romantic tales of daring exploits.

In fact, Liechtenstein is very civilised, one of the richest (and dearest!) countries in the world. Vaduz, the capital, sits on the River Rhine and boasts a turreted castle complete with resident Princely Family and 12th-century keep, a neo-gothic cathedral and museums of modern art and archaeology.

High jinks

If you enjoy ticking off challenges, Liechtenstein offers quick wins. You can traverse the entire country relatively quickly, from side to side or top to tail.

We weren’t so ambitious, selecting Section One of the Panoramaweg trail (pleasingly, signposted as route 66). This 13km

Henrique Ferreira/Unsplash trek over Liechtenstein’s mountainous spine began with a ride on the disquietingly creaking chair lift from the eerily deserted ski resort of Malbun.

Despite it being september we found ourselves hiking in falling snow, reducing the famous views to murky smudges and making the knife-edge

ridges tricky to navigate. After welcome respite in a mountain hut, the weather mellowed and we were treated to wonderful rolling vistas and the oddly comforting clang of enormous traditional cowbells. The charming, foolish faces of marmots, which popped up at regular intervals, cheered us further.

After an intrepid crossing over a freezing river, the comforts of Berggasthaus Sucka, a cosy Alpine lodge decorated with cowbells, were very welcome. There are no words to do justice to the oozy, cheesy goodness of the Tartiflette we that we all devoured for dinner.

The Triesenberger Wochen food festival serves up centuriesold dishes like Öpfelchüachli (apple-filled doughnuts) every October/November

Gutenberg Castle in Balzers is free to visit, and hosts outdoor concerts and plays in its rose gardens over summer

Mircea/Unsplash