Charleston City Paper - Dish Dining Guide, Spring 2023

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Rūta Smith

The spring issue is all about freshness and what spring can bring to the table (literally). Chefs from Basic Kitchen to Welton’s Tiny Bakeshop provide insights into crafting menus using seasonal produce like peas and asparagus from local farmers. Meanwhile, if you’re searching for a place to take a vegetarian friend, look no further than our fresh spotlight of veg-friendly eateries. But if you’re hankering for some pork, a handful of restaurants in the city offer it in other ways than just barbecue.

Our ever-changing Top 50 list is here, too, alongside the CP Hotlist. In both, we highlight some of the best and mosttalked about restaurants in Charleston. One special extra in this issue: If you’re looking for tastes of the world, peruse our list of international cuisine for places where you can try dishes from Jamaica and western Africa to Pakistan and Brazil. Go out and eat your hearts out, readers (just watch out for pollen). —Michael Pham

Editor and Publisher: Andy Brack

Assistant Publisher: Cris Temples

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Published

on the cover

inside

(p6)

Spring eats

Chefs, farmers use seasonal produce to craft menus

(p10)

Veg it up

Restaurants incorporate a blend of vegetarian and meat dishes

(p14)

Beyond barbecue

Different ways to serve pork

(p18)

Tasting the world

A guide to finding international cuisine in Charleston

Dish

The market fish at Basic Kitchen, photographed by Rūta Smith. (p22)

charlestoncitypaper.com || 5
As the warm weather of the season creeps in, so does a new Dish, Charleston City Paper’s quarterly dining guide to all things food in the Holy City.
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(p38) My scrappy spring garden How Samantha Kramer incorporates fresh produce at home
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Spring eats

Chefs, farmers use seasonal produce to craft menus

There are three indicators that spring has arrived: Layers of pollen on cars; warming weather; and the changing menus at Charleston establishments like Park & Grove, Basic Kitchen and Welton’s Tiny Bakeshop.

With the new season comes a variety of fresh new vegetables such as leeks, asparagus, snap peas and green garlic. These lighter greens replace heartier winter produce like turnips and sweet potatoes — and chefs and farmers are excited for what’s to come.

“Now is the time when everything starts to change, which is awesome,” said Robin Hollis, executive chef of Basic Kitchen. “Because we get out of the winter where everything’s pretty much the same for a long time. So, this is the exciting part of the year, when you start getting new spring vegetables in.”

Crafting a menu

When crafting the new seasonal menu for Basic Kitchen, Hollis said she is always thinking about what’s next. It’s a neverending project, she said, and when the seasonal produce comes around, things kick into high gear.

6 || DISH || Spring 2023
Basic Kitchen’s chef Robin Hollis (left) incorporates fresh, in-season produce into her dishes
R ū ta Smith Provided

“We’re in contact with a lot of farmers, and once we start getting access to a lot of the spring vegetables, we can kind of project a little because a dish doesn’t happen overnight,” she said. “The wheels are just turning with, ‘What’s coming?’ or ‘What’s going to be here in a few weeks?’ ”

The goal of creating a seasonal menu is to make every year different, and because the same produce grows at the same time each year, she said, you want to avoid replicating the same exact menu or dish. To combat this, Hollis constantly researches throughout the year by going out to eat, reading cookbooks and exploring other avenues for inspiration.

But the unpredictability of spring weather, especially in early spring, can pose challenges.

John Warren of Spade & Clover Gardens on Johns Island said he was affected by strange weather patterns of the season earlier this year. One plot of land that was growing potatoes was hit hard during a cold front, while a mile up the road, there was no sign of frost. When this happens, it throws chefs for a loop, Hollis said.

“That takes some strategizing on the fly to be like, ‘OK, what else can I get from you to make it through this and

Springtime produce

If you want to truly embrace the spring, here’s some of the produce that pops up this season.

For a full list of available produce by month, head online to certifiedsc.com.

Arugula

Asparagus

Blueberries

Bok choy

Broccoli

Cauliflower

Fava beans

Fennel

Green garlic

Lavender

Leek

Peaches

Peas (snap, sugar)

Potatoes

Radish

Rutabaga

Spring onions

Strawberries

Sweet corn

Turnips

help you make it through this interim where you can’t sell that? And then, what can I do in the meantime to source this product not from you?” she said. Though Hollis was still figuring out the

continued on page 8

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ta Smith
The house-made salmon cake at Park & Grove includes a seasonal veggie medley
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Warren

Spring from page 7

spring menu when this story was written, diners can expect to find creative takes on seasonal vegetables such as radicchio, bok choy and leafy greens like different lettuces and kale.

Another restaurant known for its seasonal switch-up is downtown’s Park & Grove, where the kitchen is helmed by executive chef Ramon Taimanglo. The spring season at Park & Grove kicked off with a local seasonal protein: the softshell crab. Over the course of a few weeks, the menu consisted of different dishes using soft-shell crab combined with seasonal produce like arugula, pickled onions and radishes.

Other menu items found this season are salmon cakes, which are made with seasonal and local vegetables like Sea Island red peas and a scallion vinaigrette, or yellowfin tuna tartare with marinated cucumbers and basil for a bright, fresh dinner dish.

Using produce

At another downtown establishment, co-owner Hannah Welton of Welton’s Tiny Bakeshop on upper King Street took advantage of the spring produce early. The bakeshop listed new menus March 8 with items featuring seasonal ingredients like green garlic farro sourdough bread, danishes with Wadmalaw asparagus and strawberries incorporated into several different dishes.

“That’s definitely our whole ethos behind everything we do at the bakery and with our woodfired pizza,” Welton said. “That’s just the way [my husband] Zachary and I were brought up in kitchens.”

The Weltons used to work at Charleston restaurant Husk under chef Sean Brock, who she said was a pioneer in using fresh, seasonal produce and preserving ingredients.

For Welton, green garlic is the first sign of spring and “something we can’t live without,” she said. The couple buys 20 pounds of green garlic from Spade & Clover Gardens, confits it and uses the oil for a majority of the year. Its sourdough utilizes the green garlic confit, mixed with farro from Edisto Island’s Marsh Hen Mills and a traditional sourdough recipe for a subtle garlic flavor, mixed with the nuttiness and rounded flavor of the farro.

The Danish pastries use the same sourdough starter to create a laminated croissant dough stuffed with seasonal produce.

Shop local

While taking a trip to traditional grocery stores may be easier, nothing beats shopping local and meeting the people who grow the food we eat. Here’s a list of markets in the area to buy fresh produce:

Charleston Farmers Market

Marion Square, downtown

April to Nov. 8 a.m.-2 p.m. Sat. Dec. 9 a.m.-3 p.m. Sat.-Sun.

James Island Presbyterian Church Farmers Market

James Island Presbyterian Church, James Island

March to Oct. 10 a.m.-5 p.m. Fri.-Sat.

Goose Creek Farmers Market

Goose Creek City Hall, Goose Creek Year-round 9 a.m.-1 p.m. Sat.

Moncks Corner Farmers Market

418 East Main St., Moncks Corner April to Nov. 3-7 p.m. Thurs.

Mount Pleasant Farmers Market Farmers Market Pavilion, Mount Pleasant

April to Sept. 3-7 p.m. Tues.

North Charleston Farmers Market Echange Park, North Charleston May to Oct. 3-7 p.m. Thurs.

Sea Island Farmers Market 2024 Academy Road, Johns Island Year-round, 9:30 a.m.-1:30 p.m. Sat.

St. Johns Farmers Market St. John’s Grove, Johns Island April to Oct. 3-7 p.m. Wed.

Summerville Farmers Market Summerville Town Hall, Summerville April to Sept. 8 a.m.-1 p.m. Sat.

West Ashley Farmers Market Ackerman Park, West Ashley April to Sept. 3-7 p.m.Wed.

“We always rotate [the Danishes] with seasonal fruit or jam,” she said. “Over the winter time we did apple butter, red wine or poached pears. And now, dipping into spring, we’re doing it with vanilla bean cream, fresh strawberries and strawberry marmalade.”

On the savory side, Welton’s offers a Danish stuffed with asparagus, green

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Park & Grove adds strawberries, a favorite spring fruit, to salads

garlic and ricotta cheese for a balance of creamy, crunchy and a hint of garlic.

Spring favorites

Strawberries are perhaps the most commonly favored produce this season, according to Warren. The sweet scent and natural flavor of spring strawberries are favored among the masses with an entire festival in April dedicated to the fruit at Boone Hall Plantation.

“If you cut a strawberry, and it’s white in the middle, it’s basically chemically ripened,” said Hamilton Horne, owner of hydroponic King Tide Farms. “It’s the way [naturally ripened] strawberries taste that everyone loves.”

Welton, who uses some of King Tide Farm greens in the bakeshop’s offerings, agrees about the fruit’s natural flavor. “I feel we’re finally in the realm of when we have tangible strawberries that are just little gemstones, you know?” she said. “You don’t have to do anything besides just [add] powdered sugar. And it’s like the most perfect bite.”

charlestoncitypaper.com || 9
Lizzy Rollins Hannah Welton of Welton’s Tiny Bakeshop likes to incorporate green garlic into spring dishes
B O O K A T A B L E T U E S D A Y ' T I L S U N D A Y D I N E A T L E N O I R . C O M • 6 8 W E N T W O R T H S T . S O P H I S T I C A T E D S U P P E R & V E R Y C R A V E A B L E C O C K T A I L S F R O M C E L E B R A T E D C H E F V I V I A N H O W A R D

VEG IT UP  VEG IT UP

Restaurants incorporate a blend of vegetarian and meat dishes

Whether you follow a vegetarian diet or you just want to incorporate more plant-based meals into your life, finding a delicious veggie meal at a restaurant can be a struggle in the Charleston area. While your meat-eating friends are debating whether to opt for steak or chicken, you may be scanning the menu hoping to find anything other than the standard black bean burger or yet another friggin’ salad.

A black bean burger can be delicious, but when it’s the sole vegetarian option on a menu with little variation, it quickly becomes tiresome. Same with the salad.

Luckily, with the increasing popularity of plantbased diets, many Charleston area restaurants are taking notice and crafting menus that are more accessible to people with different dietary restrictions.

At Post House in Mount Pleasant, chef Nick Wilber elevates the average veggie burger by using butterbeans — and he said it’s one of the restaurant’s top sellers.

Post House offers a variety of dishes for pescatarians, vegetarians and meat eaters

“We wanted something that can give you the burger feel and look. It has that richness of the butterbeans, but you need something to give it a little more structure, so there’s some local farro and some chickpeas,” he said.

To really capture the chargrilled texture and flavor of a traditional burger, Wilber also folds roasted poblano peppers and onions into the patty.

“People that order the veggie burger are wanting that burger part of it, you know? The flame broiled [taste], the texture,” he said.

Beyond the burger

Though the butterbean burger is a top seller, Wilber likes to incorporate veggie-forward dishes in many ways.

“I think vegetables are just more interesting,” he said. “There’s always a certain amount of meat [options], certain ways you can cook them, but there are endless amounts of veg-

10 || DISH || Spring 2023 continued on page 12
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etables. And, you can apply those same kinds of techniques to vegetables.”

Instead of building menu items around a particular protein, Wilber considers what vegetables are in season and adds other ingredients from there.

“The vegetables are [often] an afterthought [in a meal]. Instead, it’s like, what’s plentiful right now? What are the farmers growing? Leeks? Awesome. What can we do with that?”

A popular lunch item, the quinoa bowl is a simple dish that changes seasonally to include the freshest in-season ingredients.

For pescatarians who avoid meat but still indulge in fish, Post House has several dishes that incorporate local seafood, including market fish with curried lentils and blue crab rice with kimchi served during brunch.

Expanding palates

Jack of Cups Saloon on Folly Beach is known for bringing funky concepts to the table — and always accommodating plant-based diets.

Co-owner and chef Lesley Carroll has been a vegetarian since she was a kid and learned how to create veggie-forward

dishes for herself and her family.

“I feel like I’ve always had the mindset of giving people what they want, like whatever they want to eat,” she said. “And having a table where everybody feels like there’s a choice for them.”

She certainly shows that in her menu at Jack of Cups, which changes seasonally. Many dishes, such as the curry nachos, are made without meat protein but come with an option to add meat. (The short rib is one of the most popular add-ons, she said.) This makes most of the options accessible to many different diets.

“I love salads. I’m happy to eat roasted vegetables, but when you go out, you don’t always want to just have that and a baked potato,” she said. “So I feel like from a very young age, I was always looking for more choices, and if I couldn’t find them, then I tried to create them for myself.”

Carroll, who owns the restaurant with her longtime partner Nick Della Penna, is always thinking outside the box when creating new dishes. Few menu items exemplify this more than her pad thai gnocchi and Cap’N Crunch deviled eggs.

“It’s really hard to come up with a new idea that somebody hasn’t already had. Even if you didn’t find it somewhere, if you Google it, chances are someone’s already thought of it. So that is a chal-

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R ū ta Smith The ever-changing menu at Jack of Cups Saloon offers diners exciting new dishes to try, like this tofu banh mi

lenge, and I’ve kind of pushed myself to really try to incorporate some flavors that are new to people, and hopefully they work.”

Because Jack of Cups’ menu is always changing, there’s constantly something new and exciting to try.

When it comes to giving people not only unusual dishes but veg-forward plates, Jack of Cups has plenty to offer. Carroll elevates a commonly used vegetarian ingredient — black beans — and gives them new life in a curried variety.

Many chefs say creating a great vegetarian dish is all about recreating a similar texture and flavor. After Carroll first tried a tofu banh mi, she loved the flavors of the dish, having never tried the Vietnamese sandwich before because it is traditionally made with meat.

This inspired her to create a tofu banh mi at Jack of Cups, which she acknowledges is not an attempt to recreate an authentic dish but rather provide another alternative for vegetarians.

“You’ve got to give [tofu] a little love,” she said. “It’s another versatile item. If you marinate your tofu and cook it the way you like it, it’s such a great option for vegetarians to have something different and use tofu in a different way.”

Something for everyone

You won’t find tofu at Leyla Fine Lebanese Cuisine, but this menu is stacked with vegetarian and vegan options — in addition to items for meat eaters.

Owner Dolly Awkar opened Leyla on lower King Street with her husband 10 years ago. Though the res-

taurant has had different chefs over the years, Awkar is currently running the kitchen. She said she had no formal training, but she studied recipes from her mother and sister, and used her own knowledge of Lebanese cuisine, to create recipes and gauge flavors.

“We rely a lot on vegetables and grains or legumes,” said Awkar, who moved to Charleston from Lebanon 20 years ago. “We come from a Catholic background

where during lunch or on Friday we don’t eat meat, so it’s important to have the ingredients that you can use for both [vegetarian and meat dishes].

“It is part of our culture, of our diet, and at the same time, I want anyone who wants to come to find something to eat. That’s part of the mission of the restaurant.”

Most of Leyla’s appetizers are plant-based, including grape leaves, hummus and baba ganoush. For entrees, veg-forward eaters can choose Lebanese mousakka made with eggplant, and Mujadara, a delicious combination of lentils, rice and Leyla’s special seasoning blend.

Awkar described Lebanese food as similar to Turkish or Greek but said Lebanese cooking stands out as it uses different spices like sumac, cumin, cinnamon, nutmeg and cloves.

“The only way to succeed is by having fresh, good ingredients and definitely the recipes,” she said. “We do everything fresh every day.”

Though Awkar said incorporating veggie-forward dishes is simply part of creating authentic Lebanese cuisine, she also noticed the lack of vegetarian options in other restaurants.

“I feel bad whenever it’s [a] vegetarian or vegan [meal], it’s only a salad,” she said. “We have dishes that are really filling. When you’re eating, you’re not having a salad while someone else is having the lamb shank. You’re having an entree.”

To learn more about Charleston-area veggie-forward restaurants, check out our online list of 15 Charleston restaurants, cafes and pop-ups that cater to vegans, vegetarians.

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R ū ta Smith Leyla’s Lebanese mousakka is made with eggplant and Mujadara, a combo of spiced lentils and rice

BEYOND BARBECUE

DIFFERENT WAYS TO SERVE PORK

There’s no doubt Charleston is a barbecue town. From famous pitmasters like Lewis Barbecue and Rodney Scott’s Whole Hog Barbecue to longtime family establishments Bessinger’s Barbecue and Home Team BBQ, there’s no shortage of the smoky pig in town.

These establishments offer classic barbecue staples like a pulled pork sandwich. But if you’re looking for something different, such as deep-fried or grilled pork loins, Charleston has a handful of spots in town to fulfill the desire for a nice cut of pork, un-pulled, of course.

Grilled and basted

On East Bay Street near Waterfront Park, you’ll find a pork classic at Slightly North of Broad (SNOB). Though local

seafood is the top seller at this venerable Charleston establishment, the grilled heritage farm pork chop is the next bestselling protein — above ribeye steak, lamb and duck, according to executive chef Russ Moore.

A grilled pork chop seems simple, right? Not at SNOB.

The chops come from a North Carolina farm and are cut daily in the restaurant, then brined for an hour. If chops sit in the brine for longer than an hour, “you get into this kind of ham terri-

tory,” Moore said.

After brining, the pork chops undergo an overnight cold smoke — smoldering wood chips are extinguished and sealed in a container with the pork chops, then put in the walk-in to stay cold. SNOB uses applewood chips for a smoky, sweet flavor to seep into the muscle fibers.

SNOB’s heritage farm pork chop is brined and cold smoked before it is grilled and covered in a savory glaze to create a beautiful crust

apple cider vinegar, which adds a thin crust to the meat.

During spring, the pork chop is served with a caramelized blue cheese bread pudding and brussels sprouts to balance the sweet and spicy sorghum glaze. The bread pudding, Moore said, is like an “insanely good stuffing or core dressing.”

Once the cold smoke is finished, the chops are grilled to order. Most people order medium-well to well-done, according to Moore, with the ideal temperature at medium-well for a juicy and tender bite. Even if ordered well-done, the pork chop still stays juicy thanks to the brining process.

Once on the grill, the pork chop is slathered in a sorghum-mustard glaze made from whole grain mustard and

French bread is soaked in a custard and mixed with thyme, rosemary and caramelized onions, then baked in the oven. Blue cheese tops the bread pudding towards the end of cooking to form a crust on top. Caramelizing the blue cheese mellows the flavor, Moore said, and gives it a rich nutty taste.

“It’s not just like cutting a pork chop

14 || DISH || Spring 2023 continued on page 16
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and throwing it on the grill,” Moore said. “There’s definitely a process to it to make it taste really good.”

Braised shank

Herd Provisions near Hampton Park utilizes a different cut of pork: the shank. While chops typically come from the loin muscle (near the ribcage), the shank comes from the forearm of the pig. Herd sources its pork shanks from Peculiar Pig Farms in Dorchester, with the skin on for some added flavor.

“It’s great to braise,” executive chef Jeanne Oieksiak said about choosing pork

shank. “It’s super tender and really moist. It holds up its shape a little bit better.”

The shanks are braised overnight in a simple mirepoix (aromatic flavor base made by lightly cooking onions, celery and carrots), herbs and “a whole bunch of garlic,” Oieksiak said.

The pork sits in the braising liquid overnight, or until the meat is tender and falls off the bone. It’s then left to cool in the liquid to “suck back in that flavor,” Oieksiak added. Once it’s cool, the meat is picked from the bone, and the skin is removed as it will be fried for a garnish. The vegetables don’t go to waste; they’re strained from the stock (which can be used again) and pureed with a little bit of

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shank pasta Pork from page 14 Cru Cafe serves its pork schnitzel with a lemon wedge and pasta Photos by R ū ta Smith

the braising liquid to make a pork sugo, or “sauce” in Italian. The tender, aromatic pork is served atop pappardelle pasta with pea shoots for added texture.

Pork and pasta

At Cru Cafe on Pinckney Street, the kitchen keeps things nice and simple with its pork schnitzel. A slice of pork loin is pounded thin, seasoned with salt, pepper and a little bit of smoked paprika, coated in panko bread crumbs and fried until golden brown. The schnitzel is served with a lemon wedge to add a little bit of flavor and acidity to the savory schnitzel.

“It’s so basic,” said John Zucker, owner and executive chef of Cru Cafe. “It’s probably the easiest dish in the world that I love. That’s pretty much what I order every time.”

Along with the lemon wedge, the schnitzel is served alongside capellini pasta tossed in a house-made white wine cream sauce with capers and cremini mushrooms.

“Some people put gravy on theirs, but we just wanted to really have a taste of the pork and just a little bit of lemon to make it simple,” Zucker said.

Chicken-fried classic

The inspiration behind the chicken-fried pork chop at Poogan’s Porch originated three years ago when it expanded to Summerville with Poogan’s Southern Kitchen. The goal, said Jacob Rios, director of culinary operations at Poogan’s Hospitality, was to modernize a Southern dinner and elevate it.

“When we first opened Southern Kitchen, we wanted to hit home with traditional Southern meals,” Rios added, “like dishes you would eat at your grandma’s house. But then we take that and add a chef’s twist.”

The chicken-fried pork chop is prepared exactly like fried chicken, with a chicken marinade of hot sauce, buttermilk and mustard and breaded (no chickens are harmed in the making of this dish). But, before it’s marinated, the pork chop is cut down, pressed and tenderized to loosen the fibers and make the cut extremely soft. It’s then deep-fried until golden brown and served with black pepper gravy, whipped potatoes, English peas and pearl onions.

The whipped potatoes are made with a heavy amount of butter and cream for a fluffy texture. The peas and pearl onions contrast the pota -

toes for an added crunch and bite along with the crispy texture of the pork chop.

“It’s a good balance of that salty, crispy pork chop with the amount of gravy that

we put on top,” Rios said. “And the potatoes are a great vehicle to carry all those. When you have that pork chop with the whipped potatoes and vegetables, it’s like one perfect bite.”

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Chicken-fried pork chop from Poogan’s Porch
ta Smith

A guide for finding international cuisine in Charleston

Charleston is considered a foodie town because of its abundance of restaurants ranging from Southern cuisine (Husk and SNOB) to French (Chez Nous and Felix Cocktails et Cuisine) and Italian (Indaco and Wild Olive). But that’s only a small percentage of international cuisine found these days across the Lowcountry. What about the rest of the world’s offerings?

Two seasoned chefs said over the last two decades, the spectrum of Charleston cuisine has expanded, albeit slowly. They marvel at how cuisine offerings now include everything from Jamaican and African to Pakistani and Vietnamese.

“I’ve been here about 13 years, and I remember when I first moved here, there weren’t a lot of ethnic foods,” said chef Raul Sanchez of Maya del Sol Kitchen in North Charleston. “I think it’s finally getting a little bit of more support.”

Kelly Chu of West Ashley’s Cirsea Ice Cream and whose longtime Chinese favorite Red Orchids China Bistro just closed, remembers how she and husband Tony Chu wanted to introduce authentic Chinese food to Charleston 20 years ago. They wanted menu items like shrimp with heads on or whole fish. But the cuisine was considered too unusual at the time.

“And then now, people come in and are like, “Oh, this is American Chinese. They’re not authentic,’ ” she said. “I’m glad that people are much more open to that and just having people come in from different cultures and backgrounds. It really diversifies our city.”

But just because an international cuisine comes to the area, that doesn’t always mean it will stay.

“Through the years that I’ve been here, sadly enough,” Sanchez said, “I saw many places open that should have stayed [open] but never got the support, because either they didn’t open in a nice neighborhood or just people wouldn’t come out.”

In this issue of Dish, we offer the following list, generally by cuisine. While not comprehensive, it will give you an idea of the array of international restaurants and markets that you may not have heard of, where you can taste the world in Charleston with diverse options that will be here for the long haul.

18 || DISH || Spring 2023
Sanchez Chu Malika Canteen in Mount Pleasant serves a variety of Pakistani dishes Rūta Smith file photo

a week

Africa

African Market Groceries

North Charleston | (843) 277-2033

Bintou’s Atelier Downtown

@bintu.chs on Instagram

Lydiesika Market Afrik

North Charleston | (843) 974-4631

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Asian Fusion

Bok Choy Boy

West Ashley

@bokchoyboyfood on Instagram

Fire Grill Asian Fusion Downtown | (843) 641-0152

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Ichiban Steak House & Asian Fusion

West Ashley | (843) 641-0066

ichibancharleston.com

Jackrabbit Filly

North Charleston | (843) 460-0037

jackrabbitfilly.com

Jiang’s Asian Kitchen James Island | (843) 406-0508 jiangsasiankitchen.com

The Oriental Cuisine North Charleston | (843) 744-0144 theorientalcuisine.com

Zen Asian Fusion West Ashley | (843) 766-6331 zenasianrestaurant.com

Brazil

Chão Goiano Brazilian Steakhouse and Bakery

Goose Creek | (843) 640-3450

Galpao Gaucho Brazilian Steakhouse

Downtown | (854) 999-3950 galpaogauchousa.com

British/Irish

The CODfather, Proper Fish & Chips

North Charleston, Summerville | (843) 789-4649 thecodfatherchippy.com

The Fish & Chippy Mount Pleasant | (843) 388-4389 thefishandchippy.com

Madra Rua Irish Pub

North Charleston | (843) 554-2522 madraruapub.com

My Father’s Moustache

James Island, Mount Pleasant | (843) 884-2425 myfathersmustache.com

A Salt n Battered, a Fish Fry and Bar Co.

West Ashley | (843) 225-3959 asaltnbattered.com

Seanachai Whiskey & Cocktail Bar

Johns Island | (843) 737-4221 seanachaiwhiskeyandcocktailbar.com

Tommy Condon’s Irish Pub & Restaurant

Downtown | (843) 577-3818 tommycondons.com

charlestoncitypaper.com || 19 INGREDIENTS AND TECHNIQUES All Day Menu Tue–Sat 11am-9:30 pm Tequila & Taco Hour Tue–Sat 3pm-6pm 100-A Spring St • PinkCactusCHS.com MODERN OAXACAN CUISINE TRADITIONAL 908 Savannah Hwy • 843-763-9923 • NirlepIndianRestaurant.com Open Tues - Sun • Lunch Buffet 11:30am - 3pm • Dinner 5pm - 10pm CATERING AND ONLINE ORDERING AVAILABLE LUNCH BUFFET TUE-SUN • 11:30PM VOTED BEST INDIAN RESTAURANT 2022 continued on page 20
Courtesy Bok Choy Boy Bok Choy Boy offers unique Asian fusion dishes at Avondale’s Charles Towne Fermentory seven days

World from page 19

Caribbean

Caribbean Delight

North Charleston | (843) 974-4825 caribbeandelightsc.com

Jamaican Grill

North Charleston | (843) 793-4859 jamaicangrillsc.com

Taste of the Islands

West Ashley | (843) 804-9554 facebook.com/tasteoftheislands

China

Dragon Palace Chinese Bistro Daniel Island | (843) 388-8823 dragonpalacesc.com

Kwei Fei James Island | (843) 225-0094 kweifei.com

Old Li’s Restaurant

West Ashley | (843) 640-3994 oldlisrestaurant.com

Xiao Bao Biscuit Downtown xiaobaobiscuit.com

France

Bistronomy by NICO

Downtown | (843) 410-6221 bistronomybynico.com

Chez Nous Downtown | (843) 579-3060 cheznouschs.com

Fast and French Downtown | (843) 577-9797 fastandfrenchcharleston.com

Felix Cocktails et Cuisine Downtown | (843) 203-6297 felixchs.com

Gabrielle Downtown | (843) 990-5460 hotelbennett.com

La Bonne Franquette

West Ashley | (843) 709-7962 facebook.com/labonnefranquette

Greece

Olympik Restaurant and Bakery

West Ashley | (843) 556-9359 olympikrestaurantandbakery.com

Philosophia

Mount Pleasant | (854) 227-5738 philosophiamtpleasant.com

Stella’s Downtown | (843) 400-0026 stellacharleston.com

Gullah/Soul

Bertha’s Kitchen North Charleston | (843) 554-6519 facebook.com/berthaskitchen

Charleston Specialty Foods

North Charleston | (843) 744-8991 charlestonspecialtyfoods.com

Geechee Garlic Crabs & Seafood North Charleston | (843) 225-3616 geecheegarlic.com

Gullah Gourmet

Folly Beach | (843) 556-0333 gullahgourmet.com

Hannibal’s Kitchen Downtown | (843) 722-2256 hannibalkitchen.com

Nigel’s Good Food Express

North Charleston | (843) 552-0079 nigelsgoodfood.com

India/Pakistan

Baba Kabob Market and Deli

North Charleston | (843) 990-9522 babba-kabob-market-and-deli.business.site

Bombay Bazar and Indian Restaurant

North Charleston | (843) 554-5323 bombaybazarindianrestaurant.com

India Spice

West Ashley | (843) 203-6470 spicesandgrocery.com

Malika Canteen

Mount Pleasant, James Island | (843) 388-5178 malikacanteen.com

Ma’am Saab

Downtown | (843) 259-2660 maamsaabchs.com

Nirlep Indian Restaurant

West Ashley | (843) 763-9923 nirlepindianrestaurant.com

Spice Palette Indian Cuisine

Mount Pleasant | (843) 306-9626 spicepaletteindiancuisine.com

Taste of India

West Ashley | (843) 556-4444 tasteofindiacharleston.com

Italy

Coda del Pesce

Isle of Palms | (843) 242-8570 codadelpesce.com

Indaco

Downtown | (843) 872-6828 indacorestaurant.com

Laura Summerville

Summerville | (843) 738-6988 laurasummerville.com

Renzo

Downtown | (843) 259-2760 renzochs.com

Wild Olive

Johns Island | (843) 737-4177 wildoliverestaurant.com

Japan

Hachiya Japanese Steakhouse and Sushi Bar

West Ashley | (843) 571-6025 hachiyakyoto.com

King’s Sushi West Ashley | (843) 737-5211

SHIKI

Downtown | (843) 720-8568 shikicharleston.com

Sushi-Wa Izakaya

Downtown | (843) 735-8633 sushiwacharleston.com

Korea

843 Korean BBQ & Sushi House North Charleston | (843) 764-9578

843koreanbbq.co

Ko Cha Korean Restaurant

West Ashley | (843) 766-0301

Mama Kim’s

Downtown | (843) 577-7177

facebook.com/mamakims

Middle East

Leyla Fine Lebanese Cuisine Downtown | (843) 501-7500

leylafinelebanesecuisinesc.com

Saffron Restaurant & Bakery Downtown | (843) 722-5588 eatatsaffon.com

Istanbul Shish Kabob Restaurant North Charleston | (843) 996-4738

istanbulshishkabob.business.site

Mexico

El Molino Supermarket West Ashley, North Charleston (843) 225-8244

facebook.com/elmolinosupermarket

La Nortena Taqueria & Mexican Grill

North Charleston | (843) 225-7055

lanortenamexican.com

Las Lupitas

North Charleston | (843) 419-0865

Los Altos Mexican Grill

Goose Creek | (843) 793-2787

facebook.com/Losaltosmexicangrill

Los Arcos Mexican Restaurant

Goose Creek | (843) 572-5838

losarcoscharleston.com

20 || DISH || Spring 2023
Rūta Smith file photo Indulge in staple soul food dishes at Bertha’s Kitchen in North Charleston

Maya del Sol Kitchen

North Charleston | (843) 225-2390 raulsmayadelsol.com

Santi’s Restaurante Mexicano

Downtown | (843) 722-2633 santisrestaurantemexicano.com

Philippines

Lumpia House

Goose Creek | (854) 999-1359

Spain

Barsa Tapas Lounge & Bar

Downtown | (843) 577-5393 barsacharleston.com

Estadio

Downtown | (843) 793-1029 estadio-chs.com

Laurel Downtown | (843) 974-5159 laurelcharleston.com

Malagón Downtown | (843) 926-0475 malagonchs.com

Thailand

Basil Thai Park Circle

North Charleston | (843) 225-8161 eatatbasil.com

Pick Thai Restaurant

James Island | (843) 793-2258

Taste of Thai

West Ashley | (843) 573-8825 tasteofthaiorleansrd.com

Tasty Thai

Mount Pleasant | (843) 388-3912 tastythai320.com

Thai Elephants Restaurant

James Island | (843) 619-0181 thaielephantscharleston.com

Thailicious Thai Cuisine and Hotpot

West Ashley | (843) 501-7167 thailicious.com

Ti-Ney Bangkok II

Goose Creek | (843) 990-9979 order.tineybangkok.com

Ukraine

Euro Foods Bakery and Market

West Ashley | (843) 571-1451 eurofoodsbakeryandcafe.com

Vietnam

CO Restaurant Downtown | (843) 720-3631 eatatco.com

Ding Tea and Ha Long Cafe

Downtown | (843) 501-7477 dingteachs.com

Hi Boba Tea

North Charleston | (843) 593-5312 hibobatea.com

Little Miss Ha

Mount Pleasant | (843) 388-7251 littlemissha.com

Mi Xao

Mount Pleasant | (843) 388-5733 mixaotogo.com

Pho Bowl

Goose Creek | (854) 999-1832 order.phobowlgoosecreek.com

Pho Saigon

James Island | (843) 974-4732

Dine at 843 Korean BBQ to try classic Korean meals and interesting new dishes

Pink Bellies Downtown | (843) 640-3132 pinkbellies.com

charlestoncitypaper.com || 21
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COCKTAILS

CP Hotlist

OUCH! These newer restaurants are hot! By City Paper staff

This issue’s CP Hotlist shines a spotlight on notable, relatively new hot restaurants that impressed our cuisine team. We encourage you to check them out and let us know whether you think they should be added to our Top 50 list. On the CP Hotlist (in alphabetical order):

Philosophia (2022), Mount Pleasant. This East Cooper restaurant blends the joy of dining with friendship and a menu that rocks Greek cuisine. “Amazingly good Greek food served in one of the most attractive new restaurants in the area,” one satisfied gour-

mand said. Favorites include starters of pesto hummus and Greek pimento cheese and main dishes of pastitsio, whole branzino and stuffed leg of lamb. Wow. Moderate to expensive. Philosophiamtpleasant.com. Dinner Wed.-Sun.

The Quinte Oyster Bar (2022), downtown Charleston. The Quinte Oyster Bar is another addition to the exquisite line of oyster bars in Charleston. The 20-seat marble oyster bar and booths bring an elegant Parisian affair to King Street. Quinte main-

tains a small menu with delicate choices of a rotating selection of oysters from around the country, chilled lobster claws and caviar service for its raw bar menu. Its main course is a six-item menu of fresh, raw fish and scallops or steamed local fish. Pair the small menu of seafood with the extensive drink list of cocktails and wines. Expensive. TheQuinte.com. Lunch, dinner, Tues.-Sat.

Rancho Lewis (2022), upper Charleston. Barbecue chef extraordinaire John Lewis, already known for bringing his tasty Texas brisket to Charleston, adds Tex-Mex to the mix with Rancho Lewis, where he uses his favorite Hatch chiles in many dishes. The tortillas are made fresh onsite, and, if you can stray from the tempting tacos, the burger — made with brisket — is terrific. Another diner raved: “Don’t leave without eating the steak fajitas. Period.” Moderate. Rancholewischs.com. Lunch, Wed.-Sun.

Sorelle (2023), downtown Charleston. If you consider yourself a foodie, then chances are you’ve heard of Sorelle, one of the hottest

and most talked about restaurants of the year so far. It’s a partnership between chefs Adam Sobel and Nick Dugan, bringing their take on classic cuisine from southern Italy to the South. Everything on the menu is “a banger,” said one diner who managed to get in. A great combo, he salivated, would be to order the pane (bread) with fougasse, roasted garlic and olive oil, the cavatelli al tartufo (a mushroom pasta) with ricotta dumplings and truffle parmesan, and the pastabaked branzino for a dinner to die for. Expensive. Sorellecharleston.com. Dinner, Tues.-Sat.

Sullivan’s Fish Camp (2022), Sullivan’s Island. This eatery is the third concept from Basic Projects, owner of Basic Kitchen and Post House (both in our Top 50). The food is inspired by chef Hood’s childhood. The tastes are described as playful and perfect for the beach with a focus on Southern ingredients that create new takes on fish camp classics like shrimp linguine by using Tarvin Seafood shrimp, jalapeño and gouda hush puppies and, of course, oysters. Moderate. Sullivansfishcamp.com. Lunch, dinner, daily.

22 || DISH || Spring 2023
INTRODUCING THE
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Rūta Smith file photo
Kwei Fei brings spicy Sichuan cuisine to James Island

Making memories

In an attempt to make it easier for you to find great restaurants in Charleston when searching for “food” results in a sea of suggestions, we offer the Dish Top 50 restaurants. From incredible, unique dining experiences like Sushi-Wa or Wild Common to more casual dining joints like Bertha’s Kitchen and Jack of Cups Saloon, there’s no shortage of fantastic dining experiences in town.

What sets these 50 establishments apart isn’t price or location. It’s the dedication each establishment puts into providing dining memories. This is the list to give family or friends visiting the city. It’s the list to scan through when you’re undecided. It’s a list with options for every budget. And it’s the list that, like Charleston and the seasons, is ever-changing.

Organized in alphabetical order.

167 Raw Oyster Bar

SEAFOOD

Expensive

Downtown. 193 King St. (843) 579-4997

167raw.com

Serving Lunch, Dinner (Mon.-Sat.)

Surrounded by high-end boutiques, swanky inns, antique stores and art galleries, 167 Raw’s King Street home sits along a quiet stretch of storefronts. But fear not, it still boasts the same lineup of New England bivalves and lobster rolls that were much-lauded at its existing original (and teeny) spot at 289 East Bay St., which now operates as 167 Sushi Bar. The first floor of 167 Raw’s ever-socharming 19th century building is long and narrow, with original brick walls and a walnut bar. Even with four times (at least) as much seating as its original space, 167 Raw gets packed. Arrive early to tuck into your 10-hour carnita taco and tuna burger.

Baker and Brewer

PIZZA

Moderate Downtown. 94 Stuart St. (843) 297-8233

Bakerandbrewer.com

Serving Lunch, Dinner (daily)

Baker and Brewer is the brainchild of two great local joints: EVO Pizzeria and Holy City Brewing, both in North Charleston. The blended restaurant brings two

things everyone loves together: pizza and beer. It’s a much more casual spot than EVO’s Park Circle location and all of its renowned pizzas, such as the pistachio pesto pie (named one of the best pizzas in the country by Food Network Magazine) and the sinful Pork Trifecta. Both pies keep customers coming back. But then pair fan-favorite pizzas with Holy Citybrewed and Baker and Brewer-exclusive drafts like Clyde’s Banana Split (a banana milk stout brewed by a College of Charleston student) and you’ll think you’ve gone to foodie heaven on earth. There’s nothing like a Baker & Brewer sweet-andsavory meal in the middle of the work day.

(And then again for supper!)

Bar George

CAFE

Inexpensive

James Island. 1956 Maybank Hwy. (843) 793-2231 bar-georgechs.com

Serving Dinner (Tues.-Sun.)

Bar George is a perfect place to stray away from downtown while maintaining a downtown Charleston vibe. The food menu is loaded with small plates, but boy are they good. Snack on oysters before chowing down on the gourmet Miami Dog made with avocado and shoestring potatoes or split a whole Peruvian chicken with some friends while sipping one (or two) of the bar’s many delicious cocktails. Bar George also has housemade doughnuts available to feed your sweet tooth. Stop by for a drink or ’dog before catching a movie at the Terrace Theater or just hang out with friends and enjoy the front patio.

Basic Kitchen

CAFE

Moderate Downtown. 82 Wentworth St. (843) 789-4568 basickitchen.com

Serving Lunch, Dinner (Mon.-Sat.), Weekend Brunch

In a city filled with hearty Southern cuisine, sometimes it’s tricky to find a flavorful, light meal. Not the case at Basic Kitchen. According to co-owner Ben Towill, that has been exactly the goal since opening the restaurant with his wife Kate in 2017. “We want to provide massive flavor and a meal that’s hearty but still feels light,” he said. Robin Hollis, who took

continued on page 26

charlestoncitypaper.com || 25
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Top 50

Top 50 from page 25

over as Basic Kitchen executive chef in July 2019, has honed in on this mission by creating more wholesome dishes that highlight vegetables from local purveyors. BK’s lunch menu is divided into small plates, bowls, salads, sandwiches and sweets. For dinner selections, it offers big plates like market fish with peach salsa, cilantro, avocado and lime or chicken or cauliflower schnitzel.

Bertha’s Kitchen

SOUL FOOD

Inexpensive

Downtown. 2332 Meeting Street Road.

(843) 554-6519

Serving Lunch, Dinner (Mon.-Fri.) Head up Meeting Street until you see a two-story robin’s egg blue building with purple trim and a line stretching out the door. The Southern soul food platters here are so tasty, generous and inexpensive, that the line starts forming well before it’s open for lunch. Businessmen, laborers and far-flung tourists alike shuffle through the quick cafeteria-style service counter loaded with a smorgasbord of meat and threes, such as fried pork chops, fish specials, yams, stewed greens, homestyle mac-and-cheese, limas nestled with smoked turkey necks, dark roux okra soup, moist cornbread and fried chicken better than anyone’s Grandma ever made. Bertha’s building was announced for sale earlier this year, but has since been taken off the market.

Bistronomy by Nico

FRENCH

Expensive

Downtown. 64 Spring St. (843) 410-6221 bistronomybynico.com

Serving Dinner (daily), Weekend Brunch

One month after getting the keys to 64 Spring St., Bistronomy by Nico coowners Nico Romo and Dominique Chantepie opened the French bistro after revamping the space previously occupied by Josephine Wine Bar. The cuisine mirrors the vibrant atmosphere and draws on celebrated dishes from Romo’s 10 years at Fish, which closed in 2017 after 17 years on King Street. Romo calls Bistronomy’s menu approachable French cuisine with an Asian fusion twist. The menu changes seasonally, but at the time of publishing, it included items like frog legs, 24-hour short ribs, bouillabaisse and escargot rice dumplings. If you want to sample Romo’s

fare in Mount Pleasant, his original bistro NICO sits right off of Shem Creek.

Bowens Island Restaurant

SEAFOOD

Moderate

James Island. 1870 Bowens Island Road.

(843) 795-2757 bowensisland.com

Serving Dinner (Tues.-Sat.)

Don’t expect white tablecloth and maitre d’service at Bowens Island. It’s famously no frills, but it’s worth it. The nightly crowds are a testament to the family fish camp. Since its founding in 1946, it’s grown from a grimy, albeit quaint, cinder block outpost to a pluff-mud pantheon that offers up damn good fried seafood, hushpuppies and cold local beer in its upstairs dining room. Follow your nose downstairs and elbow-out yourself a space at the all-you-can-eat oyster tables and slurp down tasty local oysters by the shovelful that were likely pulled off the marsh that day. Oyster season or not, we have a hard time passing up the Frogmore Stew, a pot full of potatoes, sausage, corn on the cob and shrimp steamed together as God intended it.

Butcher & Bee

MEDITERRANEAN

Moderate Downtown. 1085 Morrison Drive. (843) 619-0202

butcherandbee.com

Serving Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner (daily), Weekend Brunch

Butcher &

restaurant

that belies its hipster hangout roots in its old dark, tiny space on Upper King Street. B&B’s menu features a range of dishes with everything from falafel to crispy schnitzels and carefully crafted local seafood to veggie-forward dishes. B&B’s mezze selection is a collection of small plates with a Middle Eastern and Mediterranean influence, an excellent feature on the menu for brunch, lunch and dinner. It’s safe to say that pretty much anything you order from here will be incredibly creative.

Charleston Grill

MODERN AMERICAN

Very Expensive Downtown. 224 King St. (843) 577-4522 charlestongrill.com

Serving Dinner (Wed.-Thurs.)

Amid ever-shifting culinary fashions, Charleston Grill has remained one of the city’s crown jewels by delivering a consistently flawless dining experience. Executive chef Michelle Weaver’s dishes can be decadently lush, like her beef tenderloin with a red wine gastrique or seared foie gras, spiked with a strawberry jam and balsamic vinegar. The dishes are balanced, ingredient-centric creations, while contemporary spins on Southern cuisine are bold and satisfying. The best way to experience the full sweep of the cuisine is to pick out items from each section of Weaver’s menu and sit back to enjoy the house jazz band tucked in the corner.

Chasing Sage

MODERN AMERICAN Expensive Downtown. 267 Rutledge Avenue. (854) 444-3402 chasingsagerestaurant.com

Serving dinner (Mon.-Sat.)

Focused on farm-to-table cuisine, Chasing Sage is always a delight because you never quite know what dishes will appear on the menu. The plates rotate regularly, depending on what’s in season and what local purveyors provide. You might indulge in small plates like corn dumplings with bacon and chili oil or blue crab lettuce wraps topped with avocado and watermelon. Plates are organized by price and designed to be shared. Dishes are often veggie-forward, but there are plenty of options for meat eaters. If you’re dining with a large group, opt for the chef’s choice and let the kitchen decide.

Chez Nous

FRENCH

Expensive

Downtown. 6 Payne Court. (843) 579-3060 cheznouschs.com

Serving Lunch, Dinner (Tues.-Sun.), Sun. Brunch

Most mornings before lunch, the Chez Nous Instagram feed (@cheznouscharleston) features a picture of the day’s menu, handwritten in black ink on a small white card in executive chef Jill Mathias’ eccentric and highly stylized script. Next comes a separate picture of each and every dish being served that day, taken from above in flawless light. Admittedly, it’s only seven pictures total, since Chez Nous serves just two starters, two entrees and two desserts, and the selection changes daily. The setting is charmingly old and the cuisine European-inspired, but it’s hardly a throwback to an older mode of dining. Chez Nous stands alone just as it is, an eccentric outlier. With such a dynamic menu, any review of Chez Nous is by necessity a fleeting snapshot.

Chubby Fish

SEAFOOD

Expensive Downtown. 252 Coming St. (843) 222-3949 chubbyfishcharleston.com

Serving Dinner (Tues.-Sat.)

Executive chef James London serves a hyper-local, daily changing menu at this vibrant Coming Street restaurant, which opened in June 2018. And while the fish

26 || DISH || Spring 2023
Bee is an elevated
Courtesy Edison James Island Edison James Island pairs its meatballs with a green curry sauce

selection may vary, London is known for a few signature preparations. Expect raw oysters, crudos and likely one small plate that incorporates caviar. We recommend ordering several dishes and sharing with the group before finishing off with sweets from Life Raft Treats’ Cynthia Wong, who supplies Chubby Fish with dessert. Chubby Fish doesn’t take reservations, but it’s well worth the wait for one of 30 or so seats inside a restaurant that prides itself on turning under utilized types of fish into dishes you’ll crave for weeks.

Coda del Pesce

ITALIAN/SEAFOOD

Expensive

Isle of Palms. 1130 Ocean Blvd. (843) 242-8570 codadelpesce.com

Serving Dinner (Tues.-Sat.)

With Coda del Pesce, chef/owner Ken Vedrinski of former downtown mainstay Trattoria Lucca headed out to Isle of Palms to create a beachside Italian seafood restaurant. The beautiful secondstory dining room has brick walls, reclaimed wood floors and, in a rarity for the Lowcountry, floor-to-ceiling windows

offering a lovely view of the Atlantic. It’s an ideal setting for Vedrinski’s signature high-end Italian fare, which offers plenty of bright flavors and unexpected twists. Masterful pasta anchors the primi selection, which includes ricotta gnudi tossed with mushrooms, guanciale (pork jowls) and vacche rosse parmesan cheese. The secondi highlights fresh fish like swordfish and swordfish “marsala.” Pair any of these with an Italian wine from the impressive list, and you’ll have one splendid fish tale to share with friends.

Dave’s Carry-Out

SOUL FOOD/SEAFOOD

Inexpensive Downtown. 42-C Morris St. (843) 577-7943 facebook.com/Daves-CarryOut-111720082197029/

Serving Lunch, Dinner (Tues.-Sat.)

This soul food joint offers a true taste of Charleston. For under $10 you can get a takeout box filled to the brim with the best of Lowcountry cooking like pork chops, crispy chicken wings and fingerlickin’ ribs. The selection of sides is small but tasty — try the lima beans, thick

steak fries, or rice. The lunch specials change daily, but your best bet is to go with a seafood platter, which ranges from $10 for a generous portion of shrimp to $20 for shrimp, fish, scallops and deviled crab. If you want a true local experience, opt for the lima beans and rice. It’s meaty and filling. A few tables allow customers to dine in, but most folks get their Dave’s to-go, whether for lunch or a greasy latenight snack.

Delaney Oyster House

SEAFOOD

Expensive

Downtown. 115 Calhoun St. (843) 594-0099. delaneyoysterhouse.com

Serving Dinner (daily)

The Neighborhood Dining Group — owners of Husk — have converted an old single house on Calhoun Street into a stunner of a seafood restaurant. The raw bar offerings range from local oysters and clams to hackleback caviar, and executive chef Shamil Velazquez’s inventive small plates are stylish and intensely flavored. The menu has featured rich poached lobster tossed with mayo and lemon

and a golden tilefish served with roasted carrots, apple and collard green salad. Each dish is finished with a precise visual style that befits the picture-perfect setting. Grab a seat out on the second floor piazza, order a glass of chilled red wine and dig in.

Edison James Island

INTERNATIONAL

Moderate

James Island. 1014 Fort Johnson Road (843) 872-5500

Edisonjamesisland.com

Serving Dinner (Wed.-Sun.)

This is a place where you can taste the world with Lowcountry ingredients. Co-owner and chef Joel Lucas puts his culinary skills to work in the kitchen with creative takes on international cuisine by using a rotating seasonal menu that highlights local produce and seafood available in the area. Start dinner off with the Vietnamese pho taco made with hoisin pork, glass noodles, cilantro, sprouts, ginger aioli and sriracha or the

continued on page 28

charlestoncitypaper.com || 27 Our go-to restaurant list
EastBay D eli .com

Top 50

Top 50 from page 27

chef’s selection of charcuterie and cheeses, full-bodied sandwiches, soups and salads. Examples: the poached salmon burger, Thai chicken noodle soup and bistro steak salad. There also are hearty entrees like green curry meatballs, blackstrap braised beef short ribs with smoked gouda grits, and pan-seared local swordfish with chimichurri, green peppercorns, asparagus and purple sweet potatoes.

Edmund’s Oast

MODERN AMERICAN

Moderate

Downtown. 1081 Morrison Drive. (843) 727-1145 edmundsoast.com

Serving Lunch, Dinner (Daily), This hip gastropub has a laid-back vibe. There are communal tables, as well as a chef’s counter and an expansive outdoor patio. Chef Bob Cook’s menu highlights include the house-made charcuterie and cheese plates, plus upscale bar food like barbecue escargot, port skirt steak or spicy Korean meatballs with pineapple and Carolina gold rice. The drink menu is every

bit as compelling, rife with small batch cocktails, meads and a host of inventive beers brewed on-site. And happy hour in The Bower when the weather’s nice, well, the price and vibes cannot be beat.

Estadio

TAPAS

Moderate Downtown. 122 Spring St. estadio-chs.com

Serving Dinner (Tues.-Sat.)

Estadio, which opened on Spring Street in October 2019, is technically the second outpost of a successful Washington, D.C., Spanish-style bar and tapas restaurant. The decor and the deep sherry and gin selection echo the D.C. original, but executive chef Alex Lira’s impressive menu is unique to Charleston. The pintxos and tapas — grilled shrimp on skewers, deviled eggs and caviar and matriano hash browns with black and white anchovies — offer beguiling little bites. Fresh local crudo and flat iron steak cooked with a poblano romesco and served with caramelized leek mashed potatoes are offered on the heavier side. With a slate of

sherry cocktails, “gin tonics” made with rare Spanish brands and porróns of wine, Estadio brings a brilliant taste of Spain to the heart of downtown Charleston.

Felix Cocktails et Cuisine

FRENCH BISTRO

Moderate

Downtown. 550 King St. (843) 203-6297 felixchs.com

Serving Lunch, Dinner (Mon.-Sun.), Brunch (Sat.-Sun.)

If you’re looking for a bright, comfortable French bistro in which to relax with delicious food with small plates and a soothing glass of wine or a cocktail, this is the place. We like a lot of what’s on the menu of this French-style bistro and bar, but will direct you to three classics that won’t disappoint – French onion soup, lobster deviled eggs and steak frites. “Everything is exceptional,” said one patron who returns time and again. “If you are hungry and want a burger, get the Raclette Burger. Do not add any condiments, eat it as served. Be prepared to have a food orgasm.”

FIG

MODERN AMERICAN

Very Expensive Downtown. 232 Meeting St. (843) 805-5900 eatatfig.com

Serving Dinner (Tues.-Sat.)

In 2003, chef Mike Lata set out to prove that “food is good.” After blazing a trail for the robust local farm-to-table restaurant scene, FIG still stands out, winning awards and creating devotees year after year. Although snagging a reservation can be a challenge, the seasonally inspired cuisine and impeccable service are worth the effort. Change is a constant, but stalwart menu standbys, like the pillowy ricotta gnocchi alla bolognese, never fail to satisfy. Be sure to check out the wine offerings, as — along with two nods for Best Chef Southeast — FIG is also a national James Beard award-winner for Outstanding Wine Program.

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The Glass Onion

NEW SOUTHERN

Moderate

West Ashley. 1219 Savannah Hwy. (843) 225-1717

ilovetheglassonion.com

Serving Lunch, Dinner (Mon.-Sat.),

Sat. Brunch

Since 2008, the Glass Onion has exemplified the “neighborhood favorite” category — a restaurant less formal and ambitious than a fine dining spot but still delivering seriously delicious meals. The offering blends the home cooking of chef/ owner Chris Stewart’s native Alabama with dishes and styles he absorbed while working in fine dining kitchens first in New Orleans and then in Charleston. That means hearty, savory gumbo brimming with okra and sausage and Cajun fish cakes made with shrimp and catfish, served with Charleston red rice, collard greens and a red remoulade. Pristine local seafood makes for fresh, satisfying plates, like pan-roasted trout served over tender braised beans and thick mashed potatoes. While some have become staples on the menu like the shrimp po’boy, others rotate daily, with a new menu available every day at 11 a.m. on the website.

Halls Chophouse

STEAKHOUSE

Expensive

Downtown. 434 King St. (843) 727-0090

Hallschophouse.com

Serving Dinner (Mon.-Thurs.), Lunch (Sat.-Sun.) Sure, there are newer and “hotter” restaurants, but Halls Chophouse is a special occasion classic for a reason. You can’t get better service with your steak, the wine list includes some unexpected offerings and the cocktails are generous. And the steak, of course, is fabulous. Pro tip: order the giant tomahawk cut and split it. One diner told us to order any of the dried aged steaks, especially if you need a reason to cry tears of joy. “While I have only eaten there a few times for dinner,” he said. “I dream of the next opportunity to go back.”

Hannibal’s Kitchen

SOUL FOOD

Inexpensive

Downtown. 16 Blake St. (843) 722-2256

Hannibalkitchen.com

Serving Lunch, Dinner (Sun.-Sat.)

Hannibal’s Kitchen is a no-frills soul joint

on the East Side of downtown Charleston that, according to owner L.J. Huger, has “been feeding the soul of the city” for more than 40 years. After serving the community for so many years, Hannibal’s has become an institution in the Charleston food scene. It was even listed on The New York Times 2021 top 50 restaurants in the country. Try the signature dish “crab and shrimp rice.” Salmon, shrimp and shark steak are three other hot items at lunch time. And don’t skip out on the traditional Southern sides including lima beans, okra soup, fried chicken, pork chops and collard greens.

Husk Restaurant

NEW SOUTHERN

Expensive Downtown. 76 Queen St. (843) 577-2500

huskrestaurant.com

Serving Dinner (daily), Sat.-Sun. Brunch

Husk has outposts in Nashville, Greenville and Savannah, but this location — housed in a white mansion on Queen Street — is the original. Here, the kitchen creates must-try marvels with a frequently changing menu like Southern fried chicken skins, “Kentuckyaki” pigs ear lettuce wraps or the hulking Carolina heritage pork chop, while dessert offerings include such innovations as the savory-sweet cornbread pudding. There’s a welcoming, rustic atmosphere indoors, but if weather permits, sit out on the upstairs porch and enjoy what is, without hesitation, Southern food at its best.

Indaco

ITALIAN Moderate

Downtown. 526 King St. (843) 727-1228

Indacorestaurant.com

Serving dinner (daily) Sat.+Sun. Brunch

If you’re looking for classic Italian pizza and pasta in a chic but laid back setting, Indaco is the place to go. Choose from classic Italian antipasti like polpette (meatballs) and prosciutto di parma; wood-fired pizzas, including a spicy soppressata; and handmade pastas like the staple tagliatelle with pork teas and black pepper, topped with a Storey Farms egg, chives, parmesan. For the full Indaco experience, order the “for the table” chef’s choice, which includes a three-course meal for $50 per person. One frequent Indaco diner said, “This is comfort food your Italian grandma would make if she kept up with food trends. You can’t go

wrong with the pizza, which changes seasonally, or the evergreen tagliatelle.”

Jack of Cups Saloon

INTERNATIONAL

Inexpensive

Folly Beach. 34 Center St. (843) 633-0042

jackofcupssaloon.net

Serving lunch, dinner (Wed.-Mon.)

Jack of Cups Saloon describes its cuisine as “globally inspired comfort food made with love,” and anyone who has dined here understands why. Jack of Cups co-owner and chef Lesley Carroll puts creativity and care into every dish she develops. And she’s always quick to offer a smile or share a laugh with diners. Menu offerings rotate with the seasons and incorporate unique, unexpected flavor combinations like the ever-popular red curry mac and cheese. Other unusual and delicious offerings that have popped up on the menu include Tom Kha Gai gnocchi, a traditional Vietnamese coconut broth-turned-sauce blended with a classic Italian dumpling, and Cap’N Crunch deviled eggs. Check the menu ahead of time to discover the latest Jack of Cups creations. One diner is particularly fond of the ever-changing menu. “The seasonal menu brings new, exciting changes every quarter,” she said. “This summer’s Cashew Korma was hands down the best

curry I’ve ever put in my mouth. Sweet and savory, I couldn’t get enough. I felt like I died and went to curry heaven.”

Jackrabbit Filly

CHINESE

Moderate

North Charleston. 4628 Spruill Ave. (843) 460-0037 jackrabbitfilly.com

Serving Lunch, Dinner (Wed.-Sat.), Sun. Brunch

30 || DISH || Spring 2023
50 from
The menu at Jackrabbit Filly — Shuai and Corrie Wang’s brick-and-mortar jump from their popular Short Grain food truck — takes quintessential Asian fare, and adds some vamp. The pork and cabbage dumplings are where Yangtze meets Ganges, with a rich mix of pork, cabbage, ginger and coriander encased inside the perfectly cooked pasta wrapper. Topped with a pungent chinkiang vinegar and Lao Gan Ma chili crisp sauce, the first bite is like suddenly finding something in life you hadn’t even realized was missing. Short Grain’s beloved karaage endures — the meat is juicy, the coating crunchy and the drizzle of lemon mayo and ponzu, along with some togarashi-induced heat, should be presented with the following disclaimer: “The karaage is a small structure made 28
Rūta Smith
Jack of Cups Saloon is known for innovative creations like its Cap’N Crunch deviled eggs

of chicken. It is delicious, and you are not ready for it.”

Kwei Fei

CHINESE Moderate

James Island. 1977 Maybank Hwy. kweifei.com

Serving Dinner (Tues.-Sat.)

Set next door to Charleston Pour House in the space previously occupied by The Lot, Kwei Fei’s interior looks the sameish, except now the chairs are yellow and you’ll find some Asian knick knacks scattered about. But the updates are the only understated thing about Kwei Fei. Pretty much nothing else — from the food to the music to the chef himself — can be described as subtle. Kwei Fei’s menu is an equally wild ride, offering an array of appetizers, entrees and veggiebased sides sorted into blocks labeled “Loud,” “Hot” and “Vibes.” The crescent dumplings are an outstanding way to give your tastebuds a crash course in the events to come. Made with ground pork and redolent Sichuan pepper, the five plump dumplings are served in a soy-

based, vinegary sauce and topped with fresh cilantro and chives. Hot, sour, salty, sweet: everyone’s here. On the “vibes” side of things, vegetarians are well-taken care of with the dry-fried green beans. Here some rice makes sense and adds bulk to the dry, fried shiitakes and peppers, which are coated in sichuan peppercorn and fermented bean paste, served with mushrooms and of course, peppers.

Leon’s Fine Poultry & Oysters

SEAFOOD

Moderate

Downtown. 698 King St. (843) 531-6500

leonsoystershop.com

Serving Lunch, Dinner (daily)

The chargrilled oysters at Leon’s embody the restaurant’s approach to food: unfussy and delicious. The “Fry-Up” platter is a choice of oysters, shrimp, catfish or clams battered and delicately fried and served with a tartar sauce so good we sometimes just dip a fork in it in between bites. If we know anything about restaurateurs Brooks Reitz and Tim Mink, it’s that they know how to design a

restaurant that both looks and feels good. This is the kind of place that gets in your regular rotation because it’s comfortable, delicious and reliable.

Lewis Barbecue

BARBECUE

Expensive

Downtown. 464 N. Nassau St. (843) 805-9500

lewisbarbecue.com

Serving Lunch, Dinner (daily)

Lewis’ building houses four custom-built smokers and a sausage smoker that can cook 1,600 links at a time, all hand-built by Lewis and his father. Once inside, you’ll queue up to have meat hand-sliced by one of two meat-cutters stationed behind a long counter directing you to opposite ends. Lewis’ “life changing’’ beef brisket is definitely the star. The infinitely tender meat has a salty, peppery crust and shines with melted fat. But there’s also juicy smoked turkey, pulled pork, pork ribs and Texas sausage called “hot guts” available and priced by the pound (or hot guts by the link). After your tray is filled with your order of meats, choose your sides from mustardy potato salad,

lemon slaw, cowboy beans and rich green chile corn pudding.

Little Miss Ha

VIETNAMESE

Moderate

Mount Pleasant. 915 Houston Northcutt Blvd. (843) 388-7251

Littlemissha.com

Serving Lunch, Dinner (Mon.-Sat.)

Janice Hudgins’ elevated fast casual Vietnamese restaurant grew from humble beginnings. What started as a family endeavor, doing private dinners and pop-ups, turned into a booth at former food court The Workshop, which morphed into the current fullservice restaurant Hudgins opened in Mount Pleasant in early 2020. Hudgins’ brother Ryan is the executive chef but their mother (Miss Ha) was the inspiration behind the restaurant. So it goes without saying, “mom’s egg rolls” are a standout on the menu. We have a special affinity for the dumplings, spicy green curry and beef pho (though you

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can swap beef for chicken or veggie). But, you can get a taste of authentic Vietnamese from any of the offerings at Little Miss Ha, where every dish tastes like a home cooked meal.

Malagon

TAPAS

Moderate

Downtown. 33 Spring St. (843) 926-0475

malagonchs.com

Serving Lunch, Dinner (Tues.-Sun.)

Even experienced tapas lovers may find themselves a bit wide-eyed at Malagon — the comprehensive menu isn’t fooling around. Rather, it gets right down to some sweet tapas tenderness, starting with familiar snacks like marcona almonds and dates wrapped in ham. The mojama (cured tuna belly) is a classic treat. Firm and salty, it’s often referred to as the jamón of the sea. Accompanied by roughly a dozen baby potatoes, tender chunks of octopus have a silky texture similar to that of a rare scallop. The mild flavors of the two soft ingredients are dominated by the sprinkling of smoked paprika on top. Despite being “small plates” and probably owing in part to all the potatoes, your meal can be surprisingly filling and notably affordable. Malagon is not only doing something different, it’s doing it extremely well.

Malika Pakistani Chai Canteen

PAKISTANI

Moderate

Mount Pleasant. 1333 Theater Dr. (843) 897-5727

Malikacanteen.com

Serving lunch (Fri.-Sun.) and dinner (Tues.-Sun.)

Owners Maryam Ghaznavi and Raheel

Gauba have taken Charleston by storm with their authentic Pakistani comfort food. First starting out as a pop-up in 2019 as Ma’am Saab (which will be opening in the old Jestine’s Kitchen on Meeting Street), the couple introduced a new cuisine to the market, bringing to the table dishes like chicken biryani or aloo gobi. When the couple opened up Malika, they expanded their flavors and brought Pakistani street food to the fold, introducing samosa chaats, aloo tikki, dhamaka burger and chicken tikka rolls. Wash down the spices with local beers, selected wines and house-made cocktails at one of the few Pakistani restaurants in

the country to serve alcohol. But if you’re looking for something traditional, Malika also offers Pakistani staples like mango lassi, a creamy mango shake or Pakola, a rosewater cream soda.

Maya del Sol Kitchen

MEXICAN

Moderate

North Charleston. 1813 Suite B Reynolds Ave. (843) 225-2390

raulsmayadelsol.com

Serving Lunch (Wed.-Fri., Sun.), Dinner (Thurs.Sat., reservation only)

Maya del Sol Kitchen is a good passion project for chef and owner Raul Sanchez, and it clearly shows. When the kitchen first opened in 2021, Sanchez started by offering his five-course chef’s table. He now serves lunch and brunch, too, where you can find Mexican standards like pozole, tamales or tacos al pastor. But if you’re looking for something a little heartier, try items on the rotating menu, such as the beef heart guisado (stewed beef heart) or puerco asado (roasted pork). Pro-tip: Check Instagram or Facebook for the lunch and brunch menus. For dinner, Sanchez is always cooking something special for his chef’s table menu, whether he creates dishes inspired by family recipes or hosts a themed night like an Italian dinner or an international ceviche special. Give the kitchen a ring for a seat at the table.

Oak Steakhouse

STEAKHOUSE

Expensive Downtown. 17 Broad St. (843) 722-4220

oaksteakhouserestaurant.com

Serving Dinner (daily)

Located in a restored 150-year-old bank building, Oak is a long-running favorite for a big Charleston night out. Hefty prime ribeyes and strips are the main attractions, with luxurious family-style accompaniments like creamy whipped potatoes and lobster mac and cheese. Within the traditional steakhouse format, there is always a twist or two, like a daily local seafood special or beef belly with sorghum barbecue sauce. The deep wine list focuses on California reds, and the service is reliably top-notch, regardless of whether you eat downstairs in the bar area, with its exposed brick walls and clubby red leather booths, or at the white cloth-draped tables in the second story dining room, its high windows looking out over Broad Street.

The Obstinate Daughter

SEAFOOD/SOUTHERN

Moderate

Sullivan’s Island. 2063 Middle St. (843) 416-5020

theobstinatedaughter.com

Serving Lunch (Mon.-Fri.), Dinner (daily), Weekend Brunch

At The Obstinate Daughter, executive chef Jacques Larson’s big, open kitchen has a

plancha and a wood-fired oven, and he uses it to create a beguiling array of pizzas, pastas and small plates. The pizzas bear tempting toppings, like guanciale, white anchovy or pancetta. The dishes on the rotating “plates” menu range in size from griddled octopus with crispy potatoes and black olive tapenade to swordfish siciliana with green olives, capers, tomatoes, raisins and currant. Fluffy ricotta gnocchi are topped with an intensely flavorful short rib ragu with tender strands of beef in a pool of reddish orange tomato-tinged jus. OD boasts a cheery, casual environment for enjoying Larson’s impressive parade of delicate but flavorful dishes. And that makes it one of the best upscale dining destinations not just out on the beaches, but anywhere in town.

The Ordinary

SEAFOOD

Expensive Downtown. 544 King St. (843) 414-7060 eattheordinary.com

Serving Dinner (Tues.-Sun.)

In December 2012, a historic King Street bank building found new life as an upscale oyster hall. The Ordinary — second child of Adam Nemirow and chef Mike Lata — opened with soaring 22-foot ceilings, the promise of locally sourced seafood and lots of buzz.The Ordinary was the first of its kind. While regularly packed and filled with an upbeat ambiance, The Ordinary’s high ceilings diffuse the jovial noise to a pleasant buzz. Along with six daily varieties of raw oysters on the half shell, the house-smoked oysters are not to be missed. Presented in an oil and vinegarfilled preserve jar and spiked with slices of crisp pickled celery, the six oysters are so gently smoked that they are still raw. As a result, each is tender and juicy, the delicate hint of ocean flavor touched with woodsy smoke. Served with fancied-up saltines (brushed with butter and Old Bay), rich, cold creme fraiche and vibrant hot sauce, the combination is outstanding: cool, crisp and smoky all at once.

Peninsula Grill

NEW SOUTHERN

Very Expensive Downtown. 112 N. Market St. (843) 723-0700 peninsulagrill.com

Serving Dinner (daily)

There are milestones in life that require a fancy steak. Or at least the kind of place where one can get a fancy steak. If you’re in the midst of such an occasion,

32 || DISH || Spring 2023
Scott Suchy Maya del Sol Kitchen serves up creative Mexican fare, like “tamalote” (tamales topped with street corn) on its revolving menu

Peninsula Grill has got you covered. Even after more than two decades, Peninsula Grill continues to impress with its luxurious fare. Executive chef Kalen Fortuna has taken the helm, bringing with him over a decade of fine dining experience with plans to change the restaurant’s course. “We’re trying to take it in a much more refined aspect,” Fortuna said about the restaurant’s new direction. “A lot less meat and the stuff that’s been there for a long time. It’s really just trying to put nice, beautifully composed plates on the dish and working a lot with local farmers & seafood.”

Post House Restaurant

MODERN AMERICAN

Expensive

Mount Pleasant. 101 Pitt St. (843) 203-7678 theposthouseinn.com

Serving Dinner (daily); Weekend Brunch Post House Restaurant opened in Mount Pleasant in August 2020 after undergoing significant renovations led by Kate and Ben Towill of design and hospitality firm Basic Projects. Post House is a reincarnation of The Old Village Post House, which closed in February 2019 after 16 years at 101 Pitt St. The Towills completely redesigned the circa-1896 space, moving the main dining room to the back of the restaurant and the bar to face Pitt Street. The space is adorned with antiques, vintage rugs, local art, archival wallpaper and handcrafted fixtures. You’ll find seasonal snacks, raw bar options, fresh pastas, local seafood and an assortment of vegetarian dishes at Post House. Local seafood massaman curry, Carolina heritage farm pork with creamy kimchi collard greens and a “backbar” cheeseburger are some of the main dishes that pair with starters like lamb wraps or Anson Mills cornbread. Post House also features an expansive wine list with bottles from around the world, and those looking for a staycation can grab a room in the quaint inn connected to the restaurant.

Renzo

PIZZA

Moderate Downtown. 384 Huger St. (843) 952-7864 renzochs.com

Serving Dinner (Tues.-Sat.)

This former storefront-turned-hip neighborhood trattoria has a wood-fired oven and knows how to use it. Along with tempting starters like ricotta gnudi, charred broccolini or cavatelli, the menu

features a trio of pastas, plus an array of creative Neapolitan-style pizzas. Feeling adventurous? The Cheli offers a tomato base with lamb sausage, tangy pickled peppers, honey and za’atar. There’s a bagel brunch on Sundays, plus Renzo offers one of the area’s largest selections of natural wine.

Rodney Scott’s BBQ

BARBECUE

Inexpensive

Downtown. 1011 King St. (843) 990-9535 rodneyscottsbbq.com

Serving Lunch, Dinner (daily)

Rodney Scott made waves in 2017 when, after two decades of cooking hogs at his family’s acclaimed operation in Hemingway, he brought his traditional burn barrel style of barbecue down to Charleston. That splendid whole hog — basted in a pepper-laced sauce and pulled into long, succulent strands — remains the foundation of Scott’s offering on King Street, but he’s added a few new options for the city crowd, like meaty spareribs, crisp fried catfish and craft beer on tap. The flawless collards and the ribeye sandwiches, made from pitsmoked steak sliced thin and piled high on soft rolls, are must-try sleepers.

Royal Tern

SEAFOOD

Expensive

Johns Island. 3005 Maybank Hwy. (843) 718-3434

theroyaltern.com

Serving Dinner (Mon.-Sat.)

Set on Johns Island between Wild Olive and Minero, The Royal Tern is a welcome and well-positioned addition to that existing pair of successful Maybank Highway restaurants. With a focus on fish, the menu offers an aquarium-full of options. Along with a raw bar, there are a handful of sandwiches, a half-dozen seafood entrees and a hat trick of woodfired steaks. The building is also glorious. Outside, it’s effortlessly stylish and would look just as appropriate nestled amongst a row of upscale beachfront estates. Inside, the chic, airy space boasts wood floors and high ceilings adorned with dramatic lights that resemble giant clusters of white grapes. The interior incorporates a number of current trends, including an open kitchen, marbletopped bar and miles of banquette

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seating. One of the best-looking joints in the area, The Royal Tern offers a hip place to scratch a variety of seafood itches on Johns Island.

Moderate Downtown. 334 E Bay St. (843) 720-8568 shikicharleston.com

Serving Dinner (Mon.-Sat.)

One of downtown’s longest standing restaurants, SHIKI delivers fresh sushi rolls, nigiri and more in a cozy, recently renovated dining room. Owner Hae Gon “David” Park opened SHIKI at 334 East Bay St. in 2001 after moving to Charleston from New York City, where he worked at esteemed sushi restaurants like Yuraku, serving as head sushi chef for five years. The chef prides himself on sourcing the highest-quality fish and his technique when making rolls, sashimi and nigiri that is second to none. Patrons who want to go big can order the chef’s choice “omakase,” which translates to “I’ll leave it up to you” in Japanese. Chef Park will bring out a seemingly endless assortment of sashimi and nigiri bites, allowing guests to try a little bit of everything. For less devout sushi enthusiasts, there are approachable options like tempura shrimp and avocado rolls, teriyaki beef, pork katsu and more. Shiki’s menu hasn’t changed much over the years, but why would it, as the restaurant helps fill a void in a city that has very few sushi-focused restaurants. Next time you’re in the mood for high quality sushi, give this family owned and operated restaurant a try.

Slightly North of Broad

NEW SOUTHERN

Expensive Downtown. 192 East Bay St. (843) 723-3424 snobcharleston.com

Serving Lunch (Mon.-Fri.), Dinner (daily), Weekend Brunch

Slightly North of Broad is the perfect place to take visiting friends for their first taste of Charleston cuisine, for it embodies so much of what makes the city’s dining scene special. Since taking the reins in 2016, executive chef Russ Moore has deftly balanced the restaurant’s traditional dishes with more forward-looking fare. Pristinely fresh seafood gets an elegant Southern touch on plates like New Bedford scallops with tomato ham hock broth or seared tuna topped with crisp fried oysters and tart yellow “mustard Q” sauce. SNOB was a local charcuterie pioneer and a platter of hearty country pate, savory pork rillettes and lush chicken liver mousse is the perfect evening starter.

Stella’s

GREEK

Moderate Downtown. 114 St. Philip St. (843) 400-0026 stellascharleston.com

Serving Dinner (Mon.-Sat.)

It’s hard to say what’s most striking about Stella’s on St. Philip Street. Is it the hip, yet boisterous vibe? The large portions at an incredibly reasonable price point? Or the vast, authentic and consistently delicious menu? Regardless of your ultimate conclusion, this is a trifecta worth a visit… or five. The grilled octopus and spanakopita are simple perfection, while the saganaki is a visual showstopper and an excuse to pig out on cheese. Stella’s own recipes — namely her calamari and braised lamb shank with

Top 50
a unique omakase chef’s table experience at Sushi-Wa 828 Savannah Hwy 828 Savannah Hwy. || 843-377-1300 843-377-1300 || trianglecharandbar com trianglecharandbar.com
Rūta Smith file photo
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No. 5 noodles and brown butter shank sauce, are at once comforting and elevated, testimony to the woman who inspired it all.

Sushi-Wa

SUSHI

Expensive

Downtown. 1503 King St. Extension. (843) 735-8633

Sushiwacharleston.com

Serving dinner (Wed.-Sun.)

If you’re looking for an intimate date night with your significant other and a rare experience in the Southeast, head to Sushi-Wa. This restaurant brings the traditional Japanese omakase dining experience to the Lowcountry, with chefs and owners Kazu Murakami and Chris Schoedler taking your taste buds on a culinary journey. The chefs curate what you eat during a special multi-course meal with decisions based on something pre-determined by the chef. Book a night out on Resy, or follow Sushi-Wa on Instagram and you might be able to snag a last-minute spot — if you’re lucky.

Vern’s

NEW AMERICAN

Expensive

Downtown. 41 Bogard St. vernschs.com

Serving dinner (Thurs.-Mon.), weekend brunch

Tucked on the corner of Bogard and Ashe streets, Vern’s is the definition of a friendly neighborhood dining spot. And boy, is it popular. This New American restaurant offers family-style meals, which allow everyone at a table to enjoy dishes like gnochetti sardi, a rich and creamy gnocchi dish with arugula and walnut pesto, or the bavette steak with a sweet-tart balsamic glaze. If you get the chance to stop by for weekend brunch, don’t miss the sesame seed pancakes that embrace slices of local fruit and whipped ricotta for a delicate balance of sweet, creamy and nutty flavors. This, however, is a dish you might not want to share.

Wild Common

MODERN AMERICAN Expensive Downtown. 103 Spring St. WildCommonCharleston.com

Serving dinner (Wed.-Sun.)

The experience at Wild Common is different every time. Executive Chef Orlando Pagán changes the menu daily for a oneof-a-kind dinner. Some items on the menu

may start with crab rice with kimchi or a baked oyster for some funk. And if you’re feeling fancy AND funky, throw in a caviar course to liven up the night. Other past menu items include the delightfully pink Unicorn grits from Marsh Hen Mill with yeasted cultured butter or a robust duck breast with mushroom quiche. For dessert, expect something playful like the chef’s elevated take on a Fig Newton or the chocolate and blood orange terrine with a citrus marmalade, hazelnut and dark chocolate. No two experiences are ever the same. How cool.

Wild Olive

ITALIAN

Expensive

Johns Island. 2867 Maybank Hwy. (843) 737-4177

wildoliverestaurant.com

Serving Dinner (daily)

Right off Maybank Highway sits Wild Olive, chef Jacques Larson’s haven for exquisite Italian fare. Since 2009, it has served as the go-to place for anniversary dinners and reunions with old friends. A comfortable bar greets those looking for a casual bite, but don’t let that relaxed atmosphere deceive you. Larson’s food is anything but. Incredible (and decadent) risotto fritters stuffed with sausage, spinach, Parmesan and mozzarella are a great way to start. And always ask about the specials, of which there are plenty. A past highlight was a pappardelle with prosciutto, pork and escarole. Larson is a firm believer in local and his conviction permeates everything on the plate.

Zero Restaurant + Bar

MODERN AMERICAN

Very expensive Downtown. 0 George St. (843) 817-7900

zerogeorge.com

Serving Dinner (Tues.-Sun.)

On the grounds of the elegant Zero George Street Boutique Hotel, Zero Restaurant + Bar’s romantic dining room is set in a former carriage house built in 1804. Here, chef Vinson Petrillo whips up innovative tasting menus with the option of four or seven courses, plus optional wine pairings. Selections vary with the seasons, but anticipate such treats as lightly grilled mackerel served with foie gras and local citrus, or venison prepared with vadouvan curry and taleggio cheese. Hit up happy hour for a craft cocktail; whether wielding a lead pipe or the candlestick, the bourbon-based Colonel Mustard is sure to pack a punch.

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MY SCRAPPY SPRING GARDEN

How I incorporate fresh produce at home

First off, I am no expert gardener. The first thing I planted this year was scallion ends. I stuck about five of them in a pot, watered them, and in about two weeks I had brand new scallions. So I cut off the green tops and started all over again.

As the owner and chef of two restaurants in Charleston, I have become more and more aware of not only rising food costs, but also waste and sustainability (or lack thereof) in the food system. I buy my produce from local farms, and I use local suppliers in my restaurants. But I’ve always had the vision of perusing my garden for ingredients for my daily meals. When beginning the process of starting a garden this spring, I was not thinking about using scraps from purchased produce, but just about growing vegetables for my household. Then, the garlic bulbs on my kitchen counter sprouted. So what did I do? I put them in the ground.

I decided to wing it for my garden infrastructure. With a trip to Lowe’s for wooden stakes, a staple gun, a bolt of weed fabric, a measuring tape and a helping hand, I created five beds by literally stapling fabric onto stakes. Beautiful? No. Did it get the job done? Absolutely.

This year with the help of my TikTok addiction, I was determined to have a beautiful, successful, abundant garden — even though my green thumb is more of a pale yellow at best. I was determined to start seeds from scratch instead of buying tiny plants from Lowe’s, but instead I started planting all of my

garlic, scallions, potatoes, leeks — anything old that had started to grow while I spent a busy February neglecting my produce drawer in favor of other culinary endeavors.

With each daily meal, my tiny garden of scraps grows a bit more, particularly with the additions of tiny lettuce stalks, flowering bok choy, leek ends and what is becoming a very large row of baby potatoes that sprouted in my compost bin. Everyone always thinks I’m making five-star meals at home when describing what I ate for dinner, but the secret to bringing your dishes to the next level is to have that extra something in them. Your secret ingredient.

With my variety of potted herbs and tiny scallion stalks from my “scrappy garden,” it is becoming easier for me to take even simple ingredients like cream cheese to create combinations that always keep my breakfast new and exciting with minimal effort. I use home-made cream cheese at my restaurant, Harriet’s Delicatessen, but you can add any fresh fruits or vegetables for a seasonal treat because, at the end of the day, we should all make a goal to support our local farmers, even if that farmer is you.

For Samantha Kramer’s scallion and black pepper cream cheese recipe, visit CharlestonCityPaper.com.

36 || DISH || Spring 2023
Rūta Smith
ESSAY
37 BURGERS, BOURBON & BEER 1531 FOLLY RD. | JAMES ISLAND • 2668 HWY 17 N. | MOUNT PLEASANT | BOHEMIANBULL.COM

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