Charleston City Paper: Dish Dining Guide, Summer 2023

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Editor and Publisher: Andy Brack

Assistant Publisher: Cris Temples

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Managing Editor: Samantha Connors

News:

Skyler Baldwin, Herb Frazier, Chelsea Grinstead, Chloe Hogan, Hillary Reaves

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Contributors: Amethyst Ganaway, Michael Pham, Tiare Solis

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It’s hot out there, y’all, which means it’s summer in the Lowcountry. As midsummer temperatures plateau (we hope), you may be looking for ways to chill out. That’s why we asked Charleston chefs to share their favorite refreshing summer dishes. Our melting pot of a city is overflowing with international influences, such as a Sichuan-inspired bowl of spicy, cold noodles from Kwei Fei, Southern dishes that incorporate a favorite local vegetable, okra and old family recipes found at Phuong Vietnamese.

In this summer issue of Dish, the Charleston City Paper ’s quarterly dining guide to all things food in the Holy City, we delved into the history of okra, explored some of the city’s po’boy sandwich offerings, exposed culinary delights in North Charleston restaurants and more.

Plus if you’re looking for places to take visiting family and friends, take a look at our ever-changing Top 50 list which

(p8)

highlights the city’s best restaurants. You’ll also find the CP Hotlist, which introduces Dish readers to Charleston’s newest and most-talked-about culinary hotspots.

W hether you’re craving a New Orleans-style po’boy, coastal seafood, romantic ambiance or waterfront views, we’ve got you covered. Stay cool and read on.

Chloe Hogan

(p22)

(p26) The CP Hotlist

OUCH! These newer restaurants are hot!

(p28) The Dish Top 50

Our top restaurants in Charleston for Summer 2023

(p42) Charleston’s Favorites Tried and true Holy City eateries

(p44)

A new cuisine blossoms in Charleston

Ma’am Saab’s Raheel Gauba talks about passion for food

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Graphic Designer: Christina Bailey

Staff Photographer: Rūta Smith

Additional photography: Ashley Rose Stanol

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The po’boy at 167 Raw, photographed by Rūta Smith.

Dish is a publication of the Charleston City Paper and is published quarterly by City Paper Publishing, LLC. All content is copyrighted and the property of City Paper Publishing, LLC

Charleston City Paper P.O. Box 21942 Charleston, SC 29413 (843) 577-5304 charlestoncitypaper.com

The po’boy at LoLA

Ashley Rose Stanol

AN ODE TO OKRA

Charleston’s most beloved vegetable

By Amethyst Ganaway

If there is any vegetable synonymous with the Lowcountry and Charleston, it’s okra. In fact, one of the city’s (and the United States’) oldest cookbooks — The Carolina Housewife, written in 1847 by Southern socialite and “Lady of Charleston” Sarah Rutledge — has some of the earliest mentions of okra recipes.

While Charlestonians are accustomed to chowing down on succotash, okra soup, fried okra, pickled okra and okra pirloo, many people outside of the area, and especially outside of the South, despise the vegetable that Lowcountry natives grew up eating regularly. But here, okra thrives — culturally and ecologically. Charleston’s subtropical climate, with its long hot summers and mild winters, gives okra the long growing season as it had in its native Africa (or debatedly in Asia where

wild okra also grows). Its elongated shape led to the plant’s nickname “Lady Fingers,” and it surprisingly is in the mallow family, which is akin to hollyhock and hibiscus.

You can see its relation to those plants when okra blooms. For only a few hours in one day, the budding okra pod opens into a pale yellow flower with a deep red center, before quickly closing and turning itself into a short pod that will eventually grow.

Like many of the things that have made Charleston

what it is, okra was first brought to South Carolina’s shores in the 1700s during the trans-Atlantic slave trade — either directly from West Africa or through trade from the Caribbean. In the earliest years of America, okra was beloved. African cooks would make dishes similar to those they had at home and everything on the plant was eaten — leaves and pods alike.

But somewhere down the line, okra got a bad reputation for its mucilaginous properties, even though many dishes like okra soup rely on that gelatinous consistency as a natural thickener.

While okra may get a bad rap outside of the South, Charleston has never abandoned one of its favorite ingredients. Okra can still be found growing in backyards, popping up on restaurant menus and currently at most local farmers markets, where the best okra is just coming into season.

Coterie gives okra an Indian-inspired twist with cumin, mint, carmelized onions and cilantro-mint yogurt

Tips for enjoying okra

If you’re thinking of giving okra another try or you’re looking for new ways to incorporate it into your diet, there are a few things to keep in mind.

Okra grown in warm months will always be the freshest. In the winter and later fall months, opt for okra that has been frozen either locally or commercially. If you want to save some of your farmers market summer okra, gently rinse the fresh okra in cold water to remove any dirt or debris, then dry with paper towels. Cut or keep the pods whole before freezing in an airtight bag. Come winter when you’re ready for okra stew, gumbo or anything else, you have summerfresh okra ready to go.

Also look for okra on the smaller side — the size of your pinky or index finger is a good indicator that the okra was still young at its harvest, and you’ll be less likely to encounter okra that is woody and tough. Note, however, there are some okra varieties that grow larger and longer.

Okra can also come in many colors. You want to look for brightly colored okra, free from many blemishes. That being said, all okra — no matter its color at freshness — will turn green once it’s cooked thanks to the anthocyanins (water-soluble pigments found in many plants that are red, blue or purple) that are broken down during the cooking process to reveal the chlorophyll or natural green pigment that was there all along.

Embrace or avoid the slime

Okra’s sliminess can either be embraced (again, its use in soups, stews and even sauces is unmatched), or hidden. The more okra is cut or chopped, the more of the mucilage in the okra’s cell walls are released. To avoid this, either keep okra whole, or cut minimally.

Another way to combat the “slime” is by adding an acid — lemon juice or vinegar are always good choices. Frying okra either in a batter or on its own will keep it crispy, as will grilling or broiling at a high temperature.

All of these methods also help when you may encounter “hairy” varieties of okra. However, personally, I think the best way to enjoy okra is fresh. Take a bite out of a fresh okra pod, and you’ll forget what you’re eating. Make a dipping sauce or eat it plain straight off of the plant. Fresh okra is also wonderful in salads as a crunchy addition. Try some with summer tomatoes and corn.

But if you’re looking for a restaurant okra dish, there are many places around the city where you can find the ingredients wellprepared. Edmund’s Oast Brewing Co. serves crispy, crunchy, deep-fried battered slides of okra with a bright and tangy cilantro lime aioli. There is zero slime and all crunch with this okra dish that also features candied benne, which adds a special bite of

Edmund’s Oast Brewing Co.’s deep-fried okra is paired with cilantro lime aioli

crunch and sweetness to round out the entire dish.

FIG takes a luxurious spin on okra by letting the voluptuous Nat Bradford variety shine with a quick cook and a generous sprinkling of sea salt before pairing it with a bright, creamy, perfectly made bearnaise sauce.

At Coterie, okra shows the beauty of how diasporas work: It’s a comforting Indianinspired dish made with caramelized onion, cumin, ginger and cilantro-mint yogurt and served with paratha that still feels like you’re eating stewed okra and tomatoes at home in the South.

And of course, Charleston’s favorite okra dish known by locals as okra stew, okra soup or okra gumbo (“gumbo” is actually a West African word for okra, as well as “okro”) is served up at Gillie’s Seafood on Folly Road where you can get a cup or a bowl of the okra and tomato-based dish, of course, served with hot white rice. Add the grilled shrimp — it’s worth it!

Gillie’s Seafood on James Island serves fried okra and okra gumbo

INSIDE THE CROWNE PLAZA HOTEL

Comfort zone

Where to dine right now in North Charleston

By Amethyst Ganaway

s South Carolina’s third largest city, the city of North Charleston has seen rampant growth in population — and with it, a growing food and beverage scene.

Park Circle serves as the central hub for the area’s eateries, but across the city new, diverse restaurants and experiences are popping up. The options in the North Area tend to be less expensive and more family-friendly with a laid-back atmosphere when compared to some places on and surrounding the peninsula.

Here are a couple of new restaurants — and a few fan favorites — in North Charleston to try:

Montague Room

5060 Dorchester Road

Opened in May, the Montague Room is quickly becoming a favorite in the area. With a friendly atmosphere and a martini

Photos by Ashley Rose Stanol

Montague Room

Tomahawk ribeye and crab cake (below)

Comfort from page 12

bar, the Montague Room gives diners a plush experience in North Charleston that feels like you’re dining in a bigger city. The Montague Room has a mix of New American with classic Lowcountry fare. Guests have said the crab cakes are a must-have, but the two big kickers on the menu are the Tomahawk ribeye (big enough for two!) and the signature dish, the decadent Seafood Montague — a huge plate full of shrimp, fish, crab cakes and lobster.

Mei Thai Restaurant & Sushi Bar

7685 Northwoods Blvd.

Mei Thai sits in an innocuous strip mall between the Carolina Ice Palace and Northwoods Mall and has been popular since its opening in 2018. Dishes on the menu vary across a few Southeast Asian countries — Thailand, Cambodia, the Philippines and Vietnam — and it has a Japanese-style sushi bar. Some favorite items served here are the pancit, pad thai and red curry.

Phuong Vietnamese

5634 Rivers Ave.

The Mai family’s menu at Phuong Vietnamese is full of old family recipes packed with history, flavor and love which all translate into the dishes. Alongside the delicious food, this restaurant is known for its fast and pleasant service, with most meals coming to the table in about 10 minutes. Massive bowls of pho served with a rich home-made broth and the Thai boba tea come highly recommended. Charleston native and Southern artist DJ Illadell said the food and the boba tea were “bussin’.”

Platia Greek Goodness

5060 Dorchester Road, Unit 230

Gennaro’s Italian Ristorante

8500 Dorchester Road

Opened in 1982, Gennaro’s Italian Ristorante is one of Charleston’s longest standing restaurants, opening the same year as another one of the city’s favorite restaurants, 82 Queen. It’s been familyowned and operated for more than 40 years, and with chefs and family members Michael and Robert Gennaro and hostess Linda Gennaro, there has always been a Gennaro in the restaurant and kitchen. The menu touts authentic Italian cuisine — some traditional and some with

Platia Greek Goodness has been bringing a taste of Athens, Greece, to the Holy City since 2018 when its food truck first opened. Its first brick-andmortar location in West Ashley serves delicious Mediterranean dishes, but Platia more recently found another home in North Charleston. From 11 a.m. to 2 p.m., you can choose from three filling lunch specials: a Mediterranean bowl, wrap, or salad for under $12.99. Of course, the menu also offers gyros, but the selection at Platia includes many more Mediterranean dishes. Some of our favorites? The baklava ice cream and the home-made herbed falafels. continued on page 16

Photos by Ashley Rose Stanol

Get Greek eats from Platia in North Charleston and West Ashley

new spins such as the bam bam shrimp. Not only does Gennaro’s have amazing Italian food, it’s one of the few places diners can enjoy live jazz and an extended happy hour that runs from 4 p.m. to

7 p.m. Wednesday through Saturday. You can’t go wrong with chicken parmigiana, a glass of wine and smooth jazz.

LoLA

4830 O’Hear Ave.

LoLA Lowcountry Louisiana Seafood Kitchen has quickly become a favorite spot for locals. Kid- and pet-friendly, LoLA’s brings a special vibe to the area that feels laid back and no frills — like a little piece of New Orleans placed smack dab in the middle of the North Area. The menu is a mix of Cajun and Creole dishes like boudin, etouffee and gulf oysters, and a few spins on Lowcountry classics like shrimp and grits. Enjoy the outdoor patio and bar, and check out the best crawfish boils in the city on Tuesdays before the season ends at the end of July.

MoMo’s

1049 Everglades Ave.

MoMo’s is the first restaurant to open in Riverfront Park on the old Navy base, and it’s setting a standard for restaurants to come. Founded on the principles of being creative and having fun, the seasonal menu and openness of

LoLA in Park Circle offers Louisiana classics including po’boys, crawfish, gumbo and jambalaya

the restaurant itself allows for friends to catch up downstairs near the bar, families to enjoy dinner out in the park or couples to have date night in the more intimate upstairs area.

You can’t beat Sunday brunch on the

patio — the breeze from the river is a delight in the warmer months, and when it’s cooler, the firepit is a plus. Menu must-haves are the steak frites (the fries are arguably the best in the city) and the cacio e pepe made with bucatini.

Ashley Rose Stanol

Rūta Smith file photo

Pair Mei Thai’s North Charleston or Fire Sushi rolls with Filipino and Thai cuisine

The po’boy at James Island’s CudaCo features a cumin slaw complimenting crispy oysters

Photos by Rūta Smith

Local restaurants bring fresh twists to a Southern classic

By Tiare Solis

he origin of the po’boy sandwich is nearly as mythical as some of the ghost stories from its hometown, New Orleans. As a popular story goes, the po’boy was invented during a streetcar strike in the 1920s. A restaurant run by two brothers, called Martin Brother’s Restaurant, promised to serve a free meal to the workers on strike and decided to develop a filling, cheap sandwich.

With that in mind, the brothers and a local baker created a sandwich with roast beef and gravy on French bread. When the workers came for sandwiches, the restaurant would call into the kitchen, “Here comes another poor boy,” and the name stuck.

Today, the sandwich is more recognizable with fried seafood and has spread its popularity nationwide. Several Charleston restaurants bring the historic sandwich from New Orleans to the Holy City, each putting unique twists on the classic.

From the Bayou to the Lowcountry

“Every sandwich starts with the bread, and we have the best French bakery in town,” said Jeff Filosa, owner of LoLA in Park Circle, which gets its bread from Normandy Farms, a local artisan bakery.

LoLA brings Louisiana-style cuisine to the Lowcountry and offers several types of po’boys. From a vegetarian po’boy that features fried green tomatoes, to “The Big Easy,” a po’boy stuffed with shrimp and crawfish, LoLA gives its guests a little bit of everything. Each po’boy is topped with lettuce, tomato and either a house-made remoulade or

LoLA in Park Circle serves a classic po’boy with shrimp plus a veggie option with fried green tomatoes

Po’boys from page 19

Creole tartar sauce.

“The Creole tartar sauce is unbelievable, and the remoulade is so popular it’s not even funny,” Filosa said.

The seafood in each sandwich is handbreaded with different breadings.

“It’s not rocket science, but sometimes it appears to be because no one seems to figure out what we do,” Filosa said. “We take a lot of pride in what we do. It’s a family business.”

The non-traditional po’boy

It’s nearly impossible to talk about anything seafood-related without bringing up 167 Raw — and this downtown restaurant brings the po’boy to the next level.

Served on a six-inch top-split brioche roll from EVO Craft Bakery in North Charleston, 167 Raw’s po’boy has a spicy sesame aioli, local arugula and New Bedford diver scallops. The scallops are tossed in a hot honey garlic sauce, then topped with a brown butter and beet puree, Green Goddess dressing and chives.

“It’s a very not-New Orleans po’boy,” 167 Raw chef Bailey Campbell said. “It’s that sweet, spicy and salty combination with a lot of buttery brioche to soak it up.”

Campbell adds a touch of semolina flour to the breading to stand up against the honey and maintain crunchiness. And he agreed with Filosa about the importance of the bread.

“You can put anything in that bread. The bread is almost the star,” Campbell said, crediting the bread with the success of the restaurant’s wildly popular lobster roll — that, and of course, the quality of the seafood itself.

“Focus on the produce, make it good and everything else will fall in line behind it,” Campbell concluded.

The Northeast connection

Uptown at Leon’s Oyster Shop, chef Andrew Hartenstein and general manager Sabrina Miller share the same attitude.

“What makes a good restaurant is

simple things done well,” Hartenstein said. “If you’re buying quality products, why try to mask the flavor?”

Leon’s has several po’boy-style menu options, but cold seafood rolls from up North inspired Leon’s shrimp roll.

“It’s kind of our play on a lobster roll,” Miller said.

Leon’s prepares its shrimp roll on a brioche lobster roll from Saffron Bakery. The shrimp is tossed in a house-made horseradish mayonnaise, which gives it a little heat, then topped with crushed classic Lay’s potato chips. The chips add an irresistible texture that came about during a late-night brainstorming session.

The shrimp roll is a house favorite. “If I see it in the window to go out to the table, I’m like, ‘I’m gonna get that today for lunch,’ ” Miller said laughing.

She suggested pairing the cold shrimp with a nice, bright white wine like a sauvignon blanc, a Champagne or Schloss Gobelsburg Rosé.

Across the river and across the sea

Across the Ashley River on James Island, CudaCo. Seafood House’s founder and chef, Shaun Brian, also took inspiration for his po’boy outside of the South — from the Caribbean, where he grew up.

CudaCo.’s po’boy starts on a Martin’s brand potato roll, with crispy oysters, house-made remoulade, Crystal hot sauce and a cumin slaw with red cabbage, then topped with herbs.

“With cumin, we use a lot in the Caribbean, so it’s a different flavor than your Harris Teeter slaw,” Brian said.

For Brian, that’s what CudoCo. is going for. “We try not to be what you expect in a fish camp,” Brian said. “There’s no ego in CudaCo. We’re doing it for the public and trying to create that experience and give them something memorable, crave-able and good quality.”

When asked about a drink pairing for his po’boy, Brian said he would pair it with a lighter Lambrusco or a local lager.

Intentional simplicity

Back downtown in the middle of King Street, local favorite the Rarebit boasts

“In the South, we tend to use food as a comfort, and if you’re satisfied with the food you’re eating, you know your day will be pretty good.” —Chef Stacy Spruill

boasts a catfish po’boy. The catfish comes from Lowcountry Shellfish and is delivered several times a week, ensuring freshness. Rarebit dresses its po’boy with hydroponic Bibb lettuce, tomato and a house-made remoulade on a French roll.

“Everyone is trying to be inventive and creative, which is cool, but you want to keep the flavors classic and simple,” said chef Stacy Spruill, a Charleston native.

Rarebit’s po’boy reminds us that just because something is simple does not mean any part of its makeup goes without intention.

Spruill explained that the creamy remoulade is mayonnaise-based, so it doesn’t overpower the seafood, and Bibb lettuce gives the po’boy a buttery texture.

“That’s one thing about hydroponic lettuce — it has the buttery feel to it without the guilt,” Spruill said.

“I love when guests have a bite of it and tell me it’s the best they ever had,” Spruill added. “I take pride in knowing I served a solid meal to someone and made their day. In the South, we tend to use food as a comfort, and if you’re satisfied with the food you’re eating, you know your day will be pretty good.”

The po’boy at downtown’s 167 Raw levels up with New Bedford diver scallops and local arugula

Rūta Smith

SUMMERTIME

EATIN’

A glimpse into Charleston chefs’ favorite warmweather dishes

By Michael Pham

With summer comes seasonal local produce such as tomatoes and peaches. Chefs at some of your favorite restaurants have creative ways to embrace summertime ingredients, and they’re itching to share their favorite dishes this season.

Chef Nico Romo made a name for himself in Charleston in 2017 when he first opened NICO, an upbeat oyster bar on Shem Creek that serves French cuisine alongside the beloved bivalves. He followed that restaurant with Frenchfusion Bistronomy by NICO downtown in 2020 and Italian restaurant Laura in Summerville in 2022.

He’s shared many of his childhood dishes with Charleston through his three restaurants, but one dish that always brings him back to southern France is fougasse.

“I’m from Lyon, so for vacation, I would go south of France like Monaco and Nice,” Romo said. “It’s hard to find [fougasse] in Lyon since it’s a regional thing.”

Fougasse is a French dish from Nice, which Romo compares to focaccia bread. While you can eat it plain, he said, you can also stuff it with a variety of fillings such as cheese, tomato, chicken or bacon. For a quicker summertime snack, Romo

Chef Nico Romo

Smith

said he loves tomato and mozzarella. “It’s all I need all summer.”

But if you find yourself out on Shem Creek, downtown or in Summerville, Romo recommends a few dishes from his restaurants that epitomize summer. For example, NICO serves lobster rolls on toasted brioche with pomme frites and Camembert fondue. “It’s not technically the season [for lobster] — it’s more of a winter thing — but it’s that fresh, cold salad and fresh seafood that’s nice.” But when in doubt? Oysters, he says (even in the summer).

Sweet and acidic

For Chez Nous executive chef Jill Mathias, the warm weather is a sign of

fresh, summertime fruit.

“One of my favorite dishes to make is our summer fruit salad,” she said. “There’s just so much bountiful fruit in Charleston.”

Though the menu at Chez Nous changes daily, one example of a fruit salad you might find from Mathias has blackberries, peaches, plums and figs (or any other seasonal fruits) topped with Marcona almond and sherry vinegar.

“It’s super simple, but so delicious,” Mathias said. “The vinegar makes it a little different. It’s not sweet on sweet. It gives it kind of a well-rounded balance.”

Often thought of as a vegetable, tomatoes are one of the most popular summertime fruits among chefs.

“I feel like all chefs love to play around with tomatoes,” Mathias said. “A lot of summer bounty just speaks for herself. You don’t have to do much to it.”

At Chez Nous, Mathias has paired tomatoes with various fish for a stark contrast of sweet and savory.

“I like to serve tomatoes with tonnato sauce or tomatoes with garlic cream and anchovies.”

She described the tonnato sauce as a tuna mayonnaise and added, “it’s nice to have that natural saltiness to it.” The tomato provides a sweet, sharp flavor and is balanced with the creamy, salty tonnato with just a hint of acid.

Chez Nous (above) incorporates seasonal fruit such as blackberries, peaches and tomatoes into summer salads. At Berkeley’s (below) tomatoes star in summer specials

And when not making a salad at Chez Nous, Mathias searches for a nice savory shrimp salad.

“Shrimp season is really awesome,” she said. “So any sort of shrimp salad, I’m super psyched to go eat.”

She said her favorite place for a shrimp salad is Post House in Mount Pleasant because of the dish’s light cafebistro elegance.

But at home, Mathias likes to keep things simple with what she calls a “refrigerator salad” — a salad made with “whatever’s in the fridge,” such as squash, tomatoes, beans and peppers.

Switching things up

Though downtown neighborhood restaurant Berkeley’s doesn’t change its menu often, there’s always room for new specials, said owner Marc Hudacsko.

“Berkeley’s is a little different. We’re not really like a seasonal menu-type of place, although we do run a lot of spe-

Chef Nico Romo (above), owner of three local restaurants. Jill Mathias (below) executive chef at Chez Nous.

Arugula and marcona almond salad

From Jill Mathias

Ingredients:

2 tbsp diced shallot

3 tbsp sherry vinegar

12 halved figs

7 tbsp extra virgin olive oil

1 nectarine

4 oz cantaloupe

2 plums

1 cup blackberries

8 oz. arugula

Half of a lemon, juiced

²⁄³ cup marcona almonds

Salt and pepper

Assembly:

Combine shallot, vinegar and ½ tsp of salt. Let sit for 5 minutes. Mortar and pestle 3 figs. Transfer to shallot mix, whisk in olive oil.

Cut fruit into slices and mix all fruit. Drizzle with half the vinegar, season with salt and pepper to taste. Toss in arugula. Add more vinegar and lemon juice.

Garnish with almonds.

Summertime from page 23

cials,” he said. “The easiest thing is to get as many fresh local tomatoes as we can get our hands on and do whatever we can do with that. That’s my MO (modus operandi) in the summertime.”

One of Hudacsko’s go-to menu items combines two summer favorites: peaches and tomatoes.

“I find myself often doing … some kind of peach and tomato salad in the summertime and whatever else is on hand, like lots of fresh herbs, some blue cheese or pickled red onions.”

Tomatoes are always an item he gets in surplus, he added, especially when he’s at a Charleston-area farmers market like the Mount Pleasant Farmers Market. It’s an ingredient that, even after its peak ripeness, still has a handful of uses. All season long, tomatoes can be used for quick dishes like a grilled cheese with fresh tomatoes or something a little heavier like a shakshuka breakfast or a tomato sauce for pasta.

“I’ll eat a good tomato like an apple,” Hudacsko said. “I’ll just sit there with my little jar of salt and take bites out of it and keep salting it as I go. “Why mess with them?”

But if you’re in the neighborhood looking to get one of Berkeley’s many tasty sandwiches, Hudacsko said a pro-tip for a summertime meal is a wedge salad with a buffalo chicken cutlet for a little bit of freshness and spice.

“It’s the hot item right now. That’s what all the servers are talking about. You won’t regret it.”

Icy spicy

James Island’s Sichuan restaurant Kwei Fei is known for its spicy, “loud” heat, but it shouldn’t stop you from going to the restaurant for a bite to eat during the summer.

“In the Sichuan province, eating spicy foods is all about releasing damping from the body and regulating body temperature,” said co-owner and chef David Schuttenberg, “so I don’t like to step away from spicy foods in the summer.”

During Charleston summer months, which Schuttenberg said is very similar to the summer climate in the Sichuan province of China, a favorite dish to serve is ji si liang mian, a cold noodle dish topped with the restaurant’s signature Sichuan chili crisp for a cool, crunchy heat.

“It’s the temperature contrast between a cold dish with that much spice,” Schuttenberg said. “I really love that. And I think that it’s just a really satisfying bowl and noodles.”

The ji si liang mian is cold sesame noodles topped with poached chicken, chilled cucumbers, pickled daikon radish and bean sprouts to add a coolness that balances out the heat.

“And then of course,” he said, “We love to just drizzle it with a pile of our chili crisp.”

Kwei Fei co-owner and chef David Schuttenberg said spicy Sichuan dishes are good for regulating body temperature in the summer. He recommends a cold sesame noodle salad topped with chili crisp.

Fougasse

From Nico Romo

Ingredients:

250 g all purpose flour

2 tbsp extra virgin olive oil

2 g dry yeast

1 tsp salt

15 cl water

25 g chopped black nicoise olive

25 g grated emmental

1 tsp rosemary, chopped

Procedure:

Preheat oven to 350 degrees.

In a mixing bowl, mix all the dry ingredients together, then add water and olive oil. Form a ball of dough and add the chopped olives. Lay out the dough flat into a sheet pan with parchment paper. Make sure to oil the paper with a brush.

Cut holes in the dough and make them look like tree leaves, then brush a little olive oil on top. Bake for 15 minutes, flip it and top it off with chopped rosemary, a pinch of kosher salt and the emmental grated on top.

Cook for another 10 minutes.

R ū ta Smith file photo

INTRODUCING THE

CP Hotlist

OUCH! These newer restaurants are hot! By City Paper staff

This issue’s CP Hotlist shines a spotlight on notable, relatively new hot restaurants that impress our cuisine team. We encourage you to check them out and let us know whether you think they should be added to our Top 50 list. On the CP Hotlist (in alphabetical order):

Philosophia (2022), Mount Pleasant. This East Cooper restaurant blends the joy of dining with friendship and a menu that rocks Greek cuisine. “Amazingly good Greek food served in one of the most attractive new restaurants in the area,” one satisfied gourmand said. Favorites include starters

of pesto hummus and Greek pimento cheese and main dishes of pastitsio, whole branzino and stuffed leg of lamb. Wow. Moderate to expensive. Philosophiamtpleasant.com. Dinner Wed.-Sun.

Rancho Lewis (2022), upper Charleston. Barbecue chef extraordinaire John Lewis, already known for bringing his tasty Texas brisket to Charleston, adds Tex-Mex to the mix with Rancho Lewis, where he uses his favorite Hatch chiles in many dishes. The tortillas are made fresh onsite, and, if you can stray from the tempting tacos,

the burger — made with brisket — is terrific. Another diner raved: “Don’t leave without eating the steak fajitas. Period.” Moderate. Rancholewischs. com. Lunch, Wed.-Sun.

Sorelle (2023), downtown Charleston. If you consider yourself a foodie, then chances are you’ve heard of Sorelle, one of the hottest and most talked about restaurants of the year so far. It’s a partnership between chefs Adam Sobel and Nick Dugan, bringing their take on classic southern Italian cuisine to the South. Everything on the menu is “a banger,” said one diner who managed to get in. A great combo, he salivated, would be to order the pane (bread) with fougasse, roasted garlic and olive oil, the cavatelli al tartufo (a mushroom pasta) with ricotta dumplings and truffle parmesan, and the pastabaked branzino for a dinner to die for. Expensive. Sorellecharleston.com. Dinner, Tues.-Sat.

Southbound (2023), downtown Charleston. Live-fire cooking takes center stage at this new Cannon Street restaurant from the same folks behind Mount Pleasant’s Community Table and BarPizza, formerly Kiki & Rye.

The elegant two-story dining room is located inside a historic home, which features a large wood-fire grill on the first floor. The menu, which changes daily and is posted to Facebook and Instagram each day by 3 p.m., makes great use of the grill with items such as dry-aged steak tartare with smoked egg, grilled toast and miso butter, coal-roasted Spanish octopus and grilled bone marrow with fried oysters. Examples of heartier entrees include an Australian lamb chop, crispy Orvia duck and housemade cavatelli with braised rabbit sugo. Expensive. Southboundchs.com. Dinner, daily.

Sullivan’s Fish Camp (2022), Sullivan’s Island. This eatery is the third concept from Basic Projects, owner of Basic Kitchen and Post House (both in our Top 50). The food is inspired by chef Hood’s childhood. The tastes are described as playful and perfect for the beach with a focus on Southern ingredients that create new takes on Fish Camp classics like shrimp linguine by using Tarvin Seafood shrimp, jalapeno and gouda hus puppies and, of course, oysters. Moderate. Sullivansfishcamp.com. Lunch, dinner, daily.

Jesse Ryder McCann

Southbound on Spring Street uses a wood-fire grill to create unique dishes

Gatley Williams

Pitmaster John Lewis brings Tex-Mex cuisine to Charleston at Rancho Lewis

We always serve up a great time!

Reggae Nights

Summer Concert

August 4

Dancing on the Cooper

August 19, September 16

Yappy Hour

August 24

Dog Day Afternoon

September 9 & 10

Starlight Yoga

September 14 &

October 12

Evening at McLeod

September 30

Lowcountry Trail

Half Marathon and 5K

October 7

Latin American Festival

October 8

Palmetto Park Jam

October 15

Almond-stuffed pork at Maya del Sol Kitchen

Making memories

In an attempt to make it easier for you to find great restaurants in Charleston when searching for “food” results in a sea of suggestions, we offer the Dish Top 50 restaurants. From incredible, unique dining experiences like Sushi-Wa or Wild Common to more casual dining joints like Bertha’s Kitchen and Jack of Cups Saloon, there’s no shortage of fantastic dining experiences in town. What sets these 50 establishments apart isn’t price or location. It’s the dedication each establishment puts into providing dining memories. This is the list to give family or friends visiting the city. It’s the list to scan through when you’re undecided. It’s a list with options for every budget. And it’s the list that, like Charleston and the seasons, is ever-changing.

Organized in alphabetical order.

167 Raw Oyster Bar

SEAFOOD

Expensive Downtown. 193 King St. (843) 579-4997 167raw.com

Serving Lunch, Dinner (Mon.-Sat.)

Surrounded by high-end boutiques, swanky inns, antique stores and art galleries, 167 Raw’s King Street home sits along a quiet stretch of storefronts. But fear not, it still boasts the same lineup of New England bivalves and lobster rolls that were much-lauded at its existing original (and teeny) spot at 289 East Bay St., which now operates as 167 Sushi Bar. The first floor of 167 Raw’s ever-socharming 19th century building is long and narrow, with original brick walls and a walnut bar. Even with four times (at least) as much seating as its original space, 167 Raw gets packed. Arrive early to tuck into your 10-hour carnita taco and tuna burger.

Baker and Brewer

PIZZA

Moderate

Downtown. 94 Stuart St. (843) 297-8233 Bakerandbrewer.com

Serving Lunch, Dinner (daily)

Baker and Brewer is the brainchild of two great local joints: EVO Pizzeria and Holy City Brewing, both in North Charleston. The blended restaurant brings two things everyone loves together: pizza and beer. It’s a much more casual spot than EVO’s Park Circle location and all of its renowned pizzas, such as the pistachio pesto pie (named one of the best pizzas in the country by Food Network Magazine) and the sinful Pork Trifecta. Both pies keep customers coming back. But then pair fan-favorite pizzas with Holy Citybrewed and Baker and Brewer-exclusive drafts like Clyde’s Banana Split (a banana milk stout brewed by a College of Charleston student) and you’ll think you’ve gone to foodie heaven on earth. There’s nothing like a Baker & Brewer sweet-andsavory meal in the middle of the work day. (And then again for supper!)

Bar George

CAFE

Inexpensive

James Island. 1956 Maybank Hwy. (843) 793-2231 bar-georgechs.com

Serving Dinner (Tues.-Sun.)

Bar George is a perfect place to stray away from downtown while maintaining a downtown Charleston vibe. The food menu is loaded with small plates, but boy are they good. Snack on oysters before chowing down on the gourmet Miami Dog made with avocado and shoestring potatoes or split a whole Peruvian chicken with some friends while sipping one (or two) of the bar’s many delicious cocktails. Bar George also has housemade doughnuts available to feed your

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sweet tooth. Stop by for a drink or ’dog before catching a movie at the Terrace Theater or just hang out with friends and enjoy the front patio.

Basic Kitchen

CAFE

Moderate

Downtown. 82 Wentworth St. (843) 789-4568 basickitchen.com

Serving Lunch, Dinner (Mon.-Sat.), Weekend Brunch

In a city filled with hearty Southern cuisine, sometimes it’s tricky to find a flavorful, light meal. Not the case at Basic Kitchen. According to co-owner Ben Towill, that has been exactly the goal since opening the restaurant with his wife Kate in 2017. “We want to provide massive flavor and a meal that’s hearty but still feels light,” he said. Robin Hollis, who took over as Basic Kitchen executive chef in July 2019, has honed in on this mission by creating more wholesome dishes that highlight vegetables from local purveyors. BK’s lunch menu is divided into small

plates, bowls, salads, sandwiches and sweets. For dinner selections, it offers big plates like market fish with peach salsa, cilantro, avocado and lime or chicken or cauliflower schnitzel.

Bertha’s Kitchen

SOUL FOOD

Inexpensive

Downtown. 2332 Meeting Street Road.

(843) 554-6519

Serving Lunch, Dinner (Mon.-Fri.) Head up Meeting Street until you see a two-story robin’s egg blue building with purple trim and a line stretching out the door. The Southern soul food platters here are so tasty, generous and inexpensive, that the line starts forming well before it’s open for lunch. Businessmen, laborers and far-flung tourists alike shuffle through the quick cafeteria-style service counter loaded with a smorgasbord of meat and threes, such as fried pork chops, fish specials, yams, stewed greens, homestyle mac-and-cheese, limas nestled with smoked turkey necks, dark roux okra soup, moist cornbread and fried chicken better than anyone’s Grandma ever made.

Bertha’s building was announced for sale earlier this year, but has since been taken off the market.

Bistronomy by Nico

FRENCH

Expensive Downtown. 64 Spring St. (843) 410-6221 bistronomybynico.com

Serving Dinner (daily), Weekend Brunch

One month after getting the keys to 64 Spring St., Bistronomy by Nico coowners Nico Romo and Dominique Chantepie opened the French bistro after revamping the space previously occupied by Josephine Wine Bar. The cuisine mirrors the vibrant atmosphere and draws on celebrated dishes from Romo’s 10 years at Fish, which closed in 2017 after 17 years on King Street. Romo calls Bistronomy’s menu approachable French cuisine with an Asian fusion twist. The menu changes seasonally, but at the time of publishing, it included items like frog legs, 24-hour short ribs, bouillabaisse and escargot rice dumplings. If you want to sample Romo’s fare in Mount Pleasant, his original bistro NICO sits right off of Shem Creek.

Bowens Island Restaurant

SEAFOOD

Moderate

James Island. 1870 Bowens Island Road. (843) 795-2757

bowensisland.com

Serving Dinner (Tues.-Sat.)

Don’t expect white tablecloth and maitre d’service at Bowens Island. It’s famously no frills, but it’s worth it. The nightly crowds are a testament to the family fish camp. Since its founding in 1946, it’s grown from a grimy, albeit quaint, cinder block outpost to a pluff-mud pantheon that offers up damn good fried seafood, hushpuppies and cold local beer in its upstairs dining room. Follow your nose downstairs and elbow-out yourself a space at the all-you-can-eat oyster tables and slurp down tasty local oysters by the shovelful that were likely pulled off the marsh that day. Oyster season or not, we have a hard time passing up the Frogmore Stew, a pot full of potatoes, sausage, corn on the cob and shrimp steamed together as God intended it.

Butcher & Bee

MEDITERRANEAN

Moderate Downtown. 1085 Morrison Drive. (843) 619-0202 butcherandbee.com

Serving Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner (daily),

Weekend Brunch

Butcher & Bee is an elevated restaurant that belies its hipster hangout roots in its old dark, tiny space on Upper King Street. B&B’s menu features a range of dishes with everything from falafel to crispy schnitzels and carefully crafted local seafood to veggie-forward dishes. B&B’s mezze selection is a collection of small plates with a Middle Eastern and Mediterranean influence, an excellent feature on the menu for brunch, lunch and dinner. It’s safe to say that pretty much anything you order from here will be incredibly creative.

Charleston Grill

MODERN AMERICAN

Very Expensive

Downtown. 224 King St. (843) 577-4522 charlestongrill.com

Serving Dinner (Wed.-Thurs.)

Amid ever-shifting culinary fashions,

Charleston Grill has remained one of the city’s crown jewels by delivering a consistently flawless dining experience. Executive chef Michelle Weaver’s dishes can be decadently lush, like her beef tenderloin with a red wine gastrique or seared foie gras, spiked with a strawberry jam and balsamic vinegar. The dishes are balanced, ingredient-centric creations, while contemporary spins on Southern cuisine are bold and satisfying. The best way to experience the full sweep of the cuisine is to pick out items from each section of Weaver’s menu and sit back to enjoy the house jazz band tucked in the corner.

Chasing Sage

MODERN AMERICAN

Expensive

Downtown. 267 Rutledge Avenue. (854) 444-3402 chasingsagerestaurant.com

Serving dinner (Mon.-Sat.)

Focused on farm-to-table cuisine, Chasing Sage is always a delight because you never quite know what dishes will appear on the menu. The plates rotate regularly, depending on what’s in season

and what local purveyors provide. You might indulge in small plates like corn dumplings with bacon and chili oil or blue crab lettuce wraps topped with avocado and watermelon. Plates are organized by price and designed to be shared. Dishes are often veggie-forward, but there are plenty of options for meat eaters. If you’re dining with a large group, opt for the chef’s choice and let the kitchen decide.

Chez Nous

FRENCH

Expensive

Downtown. 6 Payne Court. (843) 579-3060 cheznouschs.com

Serving Lunch, Dinner (Tues.-Sun.), Sun. Brunch

Most mornings before lunch, the Chez Nous Instagram feed (@cheznouscharleston) features a picture of the day’s menu, handwritten in black ink on a small white card in executive chef Jill Mathias’ eccentric and highly stylized script. Next comes a separate picture of each and every dish being served that day, taken from above in flawless light. Admittedly, it’s only seven pic-

tures total, since Chez Nous serves just two starters, two entrees and two desserts, and the selection changes daily. The setting is charmingly old and the cuisine Europeaninspired, but it’s hardly a throwback to an older mode of dining. Chez Nous stands alone just as it is, an eccentric outlier. With such a dynamic menu, any review of Chez Nous is by necessity a fleeting snapshot.

Chubby Fish

SEAFOOD

Expensive

Downtown. 252 Coming St. (843) 222-3949 chubbyfishcharleston.com

Serving Dinner (Tues.-Sat.)

Executive chef James London serves a hyper-local, daily changing menu at this vibrant Coming Street restaurant, which opened in June 2018. And while the fish selection may vary, London is known for a few signature preparations. Expect raw oysters, crudos and likely one small plate that incorporates caviar. We recommend ordering several dishes and sharing with

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COASTAL GOURMET BREAKFAST,

CARRYOUT DINNERS AND

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the group before finishing off with sweets from Life Raft Treats’ Cynthia Wong, who supplies Chubby Fish with dessert. Chubby Fish doesn’t take reservations, but it’s well worth the wait for one of 30 or so seats inside a restaurant that prides itself on turning under utilized types of fish into dishes you’ll crave for weeks.

Coda del Pesce

ITALIAN/SEAFOOD

Expensive

Isle of Palms. 1130 Ocean Blvd. (843) 242-8570 codadelpesce.com

Serving Dinner (Tues.-Sat.)

With Coda del Pesce, chef/owner Ken Vedrinski of former downtown mainstay Trattoria Lucca headed out to Isle of Palms to create a beachside Italian seafood restaurant. The beautiful secondstory dining room has brick walls, reclaimed wood floors and, in a rarity for the Lowcountry, floor-to-ceiling windows offering a lovely view of the Atlantic. It’s an ideal setting for Vedrinski’s signature high-end Italian fare, which offers plenty of bright flavors and unexpected twists. Masterful pasta anchors the primi selection, which includes ricotta gnudi tossed with mushrooms, guanciale (pork jowls) and vacche rosse parmesan cheese. The secondi highlights fresh fish like swordfish and swordfish “marsala.” Pair any of these with an Italian wine from the impressive list, and you’ll have one splendid fish tale to share with friends.

Dave’s Carry-Out

SOUL FOOD/SEAFOOD

Inexpensive

Downtown. 42-C Morris St. (843) 577-7943 facebook.com/Daves-CarryOut-111720082197029/

Serving Lunch, Dinner (Tues.-Sat.)

This soul food joint offers a true taste of Charleston. For under $10 you can get a takeout box filled to the brim with the best of Lowcountry cooking like pork chops, crispy chicken wings and fingerlickin’ ribs. The selection of sides is small but tasty — try the lima beans, thick steak fries, or rice. The lunch specials change daily, but your best bet is to go with a seafood platter, which ranges from $10 for a generous portion of shrimp to $20 for shrimp, fish, scallops and deviled crab. If you want a true local experience, opt for the lima beans and rice. It’s meaty and filling. A few tables allow customers

to dine in, but most folks get their Dave’s to-go, whether for lunch or a greasy latenight snack.

Delaney Oyster House

SEAFOOD

Expensive Downtown. 115 Calhoun St. (843) 594-0099. delaneyoysterhouse.com

Serving Dinner (daily)

The Neighborhood Dining Group — owners of Husk — have converted an old single house on Calhoun Street into a stunner of a seafood restaurant. The raw bar offerings range from local oysters and clams to hackleback caviar, and executive chef Shamil Velazquez’s inventive small plates are stylish and intensely flavored. The menu has featured rich poached lobster tossed with mayo and lemon and a golden tilefish served with roasted carrots, apple and collard green salad. Each dish is finished with a precise visual style that befits the picture-perfect setting. Grab a seat out on the second floor piazza, order a glass

of chilled red wine and dig in.

Edison James Island

INTERNATIONAL

Moderate

James Island. 1014 Fort Johnson Road (843) 872-5500

Edisonjamesisland.com

Serving Dinner (Wed.-Sun.)

This is a place where you can taste the world with Lowcountry ingredients. Co-owner and chef Joel Lucas puts his culinary skills to work in the kitchen with creative takes on international cuisine by using a rotating seasonal menu that highlights local produce and seafood available in the area. Start dinner off with the Vietnamese pho taco made with hoisin pork, glass noodles, cilantro, sprouts, ginger aioli and sriracha or the chef’s selection of charcuterie and cheeses, full-bodied sandwiches, soups and salads. Examples: the poached salmon burger, Thai chicken noodle soup and bistro steak salad. There also are hearty entrees like green curry meatballs, blackstrap braised

beef short ribs with smoked gouda grits, pan-seared local swordfish with chimichurri, green peppercorns, asparagus and purple sweet potatoes.

Edmund’s Oast

MODERN AMERICAN Moderate Downtown. 1081 Morrison Drive. (843) 727-1145 edmundsoast.com

Serving Lunch, Dinner (Daily), This hip gastropub has a laid-back vibe. There are communal tables, as well as a chef’s counter and an expansive outdoor patio. Chef Bob Cook’s menu highlights include the house-made charcuterie and cheese plates, plus upscale bar food like barbecue escargot, port skirt steak or spicy Korean meatballs with pineapple and Carolina gold rice. The drink menu is every bit as compelling, rife with small batch cocktails, meads and a host of inventive beers brewed on-site. And happy hour in The Bower when the weather’s nice, well, the price and vibes cannot be beat.

Steve Freihon

Basic Kitchen executive chef Robin Hollis said she loves to incoporate into the menu hearty dishes that still feel light

Estadio

TAPAS

Moderate Downtown. 122 Spring St. estadio-chs.com

Serving Dinner (Tues.-Sat.)

Estadio, which opened on Spring Street in October 2019, is technically the second outpost of a successful Washington, D.C., Spanish-style bar and tapas restaurant. The decor and the deep sherry and gin selection echo the D.C. original, but executive chef Alex Lira’s impressive menu is unique to Charleston. The pintxos and tapas — grilled shrimp on skewers, deviled eggs and caviar and matriano hash browns with black and white anchovies — offer beguiling little bites. Fresh local crudo and flat iron steak cooked with a poblano romesco and served with caramelized leek mashed potatoes are offered on the heavier side. With a slate of sherry cocktails, “gin tonics” made with rare Spanish brands and porróns of wine, Estadio brings a brilliant taste of Spain to the heart of downtown Charleston.

Felix Cocktails et Cuisine

FRENCH BISTRO

Moderate

Downtown. 550 King St. (843) 203-6297 felixchs.com

Serving Lunch, Dinner (Mon.-Sun.), Brunch (Sat.-Sun.)

If you’re looking for a bright, comfortable French bistro in which to relax with delicious food with small plates and a soothing glass of wine or a cocktail, this is the place. We like a lot of what’s on the menu of this French-style bistro and bar, but will direct you to three classics that won’t disappoint – French onion soup, lobster deviled eggs and steak frites. “Everything is exceptional,” said one patron who returns time and again. “If you are hungry and want a burger, get the Raclette Burger. Do not add any condiments, eat it as served. Be prepared to have a food orgasm.”

FIG MODERN AMERICAN

Very Expensive

Downtown. 232 Meeting St. (843) 805-5900 eatatfig.com

Serving Dinner (Tues.-Sat.)

In 2003, chef Mike Lata set out to prove that “food is good.” After blazing a trail for the robust local farm-to-table restaurant scene, FIG still stands out, winning awards and creating devo -

tees year after year. Although snagging a reservation can be a challenge, the seasonally inspired cuisine and impeccable service are worth the effort. Change is a constant, but stalwart menu standbys, like the pillowy ricotta gnocchi alla bolognese, never fail to satisfy. Be sure to check out the wine offerings, as — along with two nods for Best Chef Southeast — FIG is also a national James Beard award-winner for Outstanding Wine Program.

The Glass Onion

NEW SOUTHERN

Moderate

West Ashley. 1219 Savannah Hwy. (843) 225-1717

ilovetheglassonion.com

Serving Lunch, Dinner (Mon.-Sat.), Sat. Brunch

Since 2008, the Glass Onion has exemplified the “neighborhood favorite” category — a restaurant less formal and ambitious than a fine dining spot but still delivering seriously delicious meals. The offering blends the home cooking of chef/ owner Chris Stewart’s native Alabama with dishes and styles he absorbed while working in fine dining kitchens first in New Orleans and then in Charleston. That means hearty, savory gumbo brimming with okra and sausage and Cajun fish cakes made with shrimp and catfish, served with Charleston red rice, collard greens and a red remoulade. Pristine local seafood makes for fresh, satisfying plates, like pan-roasted trout served over tender braised beans and thick mashed potatoes. While some have become staples on the menu like the shrimp po’boy, others rotate daily, with a new menu available every day at 11 a.m. on the website.

Halls Chophouse

STEAKHOUSE Expensive

Downtown. 434 King St. (843) 727-0090

Hallschophouse.com

Serving Dinner (Mon.-Thurs.), Lunch (Sat.-Sun.)

Sure, there are newer and “hotter” restaurants, but Halls Chophouse is a special occasion classic for a reason. You can’t get better service with your steak, the wine list includes some unexpected offerings and the cocktails are generous. And the steak, of course, is fabulous. Pro tip: order the giant tomahawk cut and split it. One diner told us to order any of

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the dried aged steaks, especially if you need a reason to cry tears of joy. “While I have only eaten there a few times for dinner,” he said. “I dream of the next opportunity to go back.”

Hannibal’s Kitchen

SOUL FOOD

Inexpensive

Downtown. 16 Blake St. (843) 722-2256

Hannibalkitchen.com

Serving Lunch, Dinner (Sun.-Sat.)

Hannibal’s Kitchen is a no-frills soul joint on the East Side of downtown Charleston that, according to owner L.J. Huger, has “been feeding the soul of the city” for more than 40 years. After serving the community for so many years, Hannibal’s has become an institution in the Charleston food scene. It was even listed on The New York Times 2021 top 50 restaurants in the country. Try the signature dish “crab and shrimp rice.” Salmon, shrimp and shark steak are three other hot items at lunch time. And don’t skip out on the traditional Southern sides including lima beans, okra soup, fried chicken, pork chops and collard greens.

Husk Restaurant

NEW SOUTHERN

Expensive

Downtown. 76 Queen St. (843) 577-2500

huskrestaurant.com

Serving Dinner (daily), Sat.-Sun. Brunch

Husk has outposts in Nashville, Greenville and Savannah, but this location — housed in a white mansion on Queen Street — is the original. Here, the kitchen creates must-try marvels with a frequently changing menu like Southern fried chicken skins, “Kentuckyaki” pigs ear lettuce wraps or the hulking Carolina heritage pork chop, while dessert offerings include such innovations as the savory-sweet cornbread pudding. There’s a welcoming, rustic atmosphere indoors, but if weather permits, sit out on the upstairs porch and enjoy what is, without hesitation, Southern food at its best.

Indaco

ITALIAN

Moderate

Downtown. 526 King St. (843) 727-1228

Indacorestaurant.com

Serving dinner (daily) Sat.+Sun. Brunch

If you’re looking for classic Italian pizza

and pasta in a chic but laid back setting, Indaco is the place to go. Choose from classic Italian antipasti like polpette (meatballs) and prosciutto di parma; wood-fired pizzas, including a spicy soppressata; and handmade pastas like the staple tagliatelle with pork teas and black pepper, topped with a Storey Farms egg, chives, parmesan. For the full Indaco experience, order the “for the table” chef’s choice, which includes a three-course meal for $50 per person. One frequent Indaco diner said, “This is comfort food your Italian grandma would make if she

kept up with food trends. You can’t go wrong with the pizza, which changes seasonally, or the evergreen tagliatelle.”

Jack of Cups Saloon

INTERNATIONAL

Inexpensive

Folly Beach. 34 Center St. (843) 633-0042

jackofcupssaloon.net

Serving lunch, dinner (Wed.-Mon.)

Jack of Cups Saloon describes its cuisine as “globally inspired comfort food made with love,” and anyone who has dined here understands why. Jack of Cups co-owner

and chef Lesley Carroll puts creativity and care into every dish she develops. And she’s always quick to offer a smile or share a laugh with diners. Menu offerings rotate with the seasons and incorporate unique, unexpected flavor combinations like the ever-popular red curry mac and cheese.

Other unusual and delicious offerings that have popped up on the menu include Tom Kha Gai gnocchi, a traditional Vietnamese coconut broth-turned-sauce blended with a classic Italian dumpling, and Cap’N Crunch deviled eggs. Check the menu ahead of time to discover the latest Jack of Cups creations. One diner is particularly fond of the ever-changing menu. “The seasonal menu brings new, exciting changes every quarter,” she said. “This summer’s Cashew Korma was hands down the best curry I’ve ever put in my mouth. Sweet and savory, I couldn’t get enough. I felt like I died and went to curry heaven.”

Jackrabbit Filly

CHINESE

Moderate

North Charleston. 4628 Spruill Ave. (843) 460-0037 jackrabbitfilly.com

Serving Lunch, Dinner (Wed.-Sat.), Sun. Brunch

The menu at Jackrabbit Filly — Shuai and Corrie Wang’s brick-and-mortar jump from their popular Short Grain food truck — takes quintessential Asian fare, and adds some vamp. The pork and cabbage dumplings are where Yangtze meets Ganges, with a rich mix of pork, cabbage, ginger and coriander encased inside the perfectly cooked pasta wrapper. Topped with a pungent chinkiang vinegar and Lao Gan Ma chili crisp sauce, the first bite is like suddenly finding something in life you hadn’t even realized was missing. Short Grain’s beloved karaage endures — the meat is juicy, the coating crunchy and the drizzle of lemon mayo and ponzu, along with some togarashi-induced heat, should be presented with the following disclaimer: “The karaage is a small structure made of chicken. It is delicious, and you are not ready for it.”

Kwei Fei

CHINESE

Moderate James Island. 1977 Maybank Hwy. kweifei.com

Serving Dinner (Tues.-Sat.)

Set next door to Charleston Pour House

Rūta Smith file photo

Jack of Cups chef Lesley Carroll integrates surpising ingredients into dishes

in the space previously occupied by The Lot, Kwei Fei’s interior looks the sameish, except now the chairs are yellow and you’ll find some Asian knick knacks scattered about. But the updates are the only understated thing about Kwei Fei. Pretty much nothing else — from the food to the music to the chef himself — can be described as subtle. Kwei Fei’s menu is an equally wild ride, offering an array of appetizers, entrees and veggiebased sides sorted into blocks labeled “Loud,” “Hot” and “Vibes.” The crescent dumplings are an outstanding way to give your tastebuds a crash course in the events to come. Made with ground pork and redolent Sichuan pepper, the five plump dumplings are served in a soybased, vinegary sauce and topped with fresh cilantro and chives. Hot, sour, salty, sweet: everyone’s here. On the “vibes” side of things, vegetarians are well-taken care of with the dry-fried green beans. Here some rice makes sense and adds bulk to the dry, fried shiitakes and peppers, which are coated in sichuan peppercorn and fermented bean paste, served with mushrooms and of course, peppers.

Leon’s Fine Poultry & Oysters

SEAFOOD

Moderate Downtown. 698 King St. (843) 531-6500 leonsoystershop.com

Serving Lunch, Dinner (daily)

The chargrilled oysters at Leon’s embody the restaurant’s approach to food: unfussy and delicious. The “Fry-Up” platter is a choice of oysters, shrimp, catfish or clams battered and delicately fried and served with a tartar sauce so good we sometimes just dip a fork in it in between bites. If we know anything about restaurateurs Brooks Reitz and Tim Mink, it’s that they know how to design a restaurant that both looks and feels good. This is the kind of place that gets in your regular rotation because it’s comfortable, delicious and reliable.

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Lewis Barbecue

BARBECUE

Expensive Downtown. 464 N. Nassau St. (843) 805-9500

lewisbarbecue.com

Serving Lunch, Dinner (daily)

Lewis’ building houses four custom-built smokers and a sausage smoker that can cook 1,600 links at a time, all hand-built by Lewis and his father. Once inside, you’ll queue up to have meat hand-sliced by one of two meat-cutters stationed behind a long counter directing you to opposite ends. Lewis’ “life changing’’ beef brisket is definitely the star. The infinitely tender meat has a salty, peppery crust and shines with melted fat. But there’s also juicy smoked turkey, pulled pork, pork ribs and Texas sausage called “hot guts” available and priced by the pound (or hot guts by the link). After your tray is filled with your order of meats, choose your sides from mustardy potato salad, lemon slaw, cowboy beans and rich green chile corn pudding.

Little Miss Ha

VIETNAMESE

Moderate

Mount Pleasant. 915 Houston Northcutt Blvd. (843) 388-7251

Littlemissha.com

Serving Lunch, Dinner (Mon.-Sat.)

Janice Hudgins’ elevated fast casual Vietnamese restaurant grew from humble beginnings. What started as a family endeavor, doing private dinners and pop-ups, turned into a booth at former food court The Workshop, which morphed into the current fullservice restaurant Hudgins opened in Mount Pleasant in early 2020. Hudgins’ brother Ryan is the executive chef but their mother (Miss Ha) was the inspiration behind the restaurant. So it goes without saying, “mom’s egg rolls” are a standout on the menu. We have a special affinity for the dumplings, spicy green curry and beef pho (though you can swap beef for chicken or veggie). But, you can get a taste of authentic Vietnamese from any of the offerings at Little Miss Ha, where every dish tastes like a home cooked meal.

Malagon

TAPAS

Moderate Downtown. 33 Spring St. (843) 926-0475

malagonchs.com

Serving Lunch, Dinner (Tues.-Sun.)

Even experienced tapas lovers may find themselves a bit wide-eyed at Malagon — the comprehensive menu isn’t fooling around. Rather, it gets right down to some sweet tapas tenderness, starting with familiar snacks like marcona almonds and dates wrapped in ham. The mojama (cured tuna belly) is a classic treat. Firm and salty, it’s often referred to as the jamón of the sea. Accompanied by roughly a dozen baby potatoes, tender chunks of octopus have a silky texture similar to that of a rare scallop. The mild flavors of the two soft ingredients are dominated by the sprinkling of smoked paprika on top. Despite being “small plates” and prob -

ably owing in part to all the potatoes, your meal can be surprisingly filling and notably affordable. Malagon is not only doing something different, it’s doing it extremely well.

Malika Pakistani Chai Canteen

PAKISTANI Moderate

Mount Pleasant. 1333 Theater Dr. (843) 897-5727

Malikacanteen.com

Serving lunch (Fri.-Sun.) and dinner (Tues.-Sun.)

Owners Maryam Ghaznavi and Raheel

Gauba have taken Charleston by storm with their authentic Pakistani comfort food. First starting out as a pop-up in 2019 as Ma’am Saab (which will be opening in the old Jestine’s Kitchen on Meeting Street), the couple introduced a new cuisine to the market, bringing to the table dishes like chicken biryani or aloo gobi. When the couple opened up

Malika, they expanded their flavors and brought Pakistani street food to the fold, introducing samosa chaats, aloo tikki, dhamaka burger and chicken tikka rolls. Wash down the spices with local beers, selected wines and house-made cocktails at one of the few Pakistani restaurants in the country to serve alcohol. But if you’re looking for something traditional, Malika also offers Pakistani staples like mango lassi, a creamy mango shake or Pakola, a rosewater cream soda.

Maya del Sol Kitchen

MEXICAN Moderate

North Charleston. 1813 Suite B Reynolds Ave. (843) 225-2390

raulsmayadelsol.com

Serving Lunch (Wed.-Fri., Sun.), Dinner (Thurs.Sat., reservation only)

Maya del Sol Kitchen is a good passion project for chef and owner Raul Sanchez,

Andrew Cebulka

The short rib gnocchi at Obstinate Daughter is the perfect, flavor-packed dish from this fun Sullivan’s Island kitchen

and it clearly shows. When the kitchen first opened in 2021, Sanchez started by offering his five-course chef’s table. He now serves lunch and brunch, too, where you can find Mexican standards like pozole, tamales or tacos al pastor. But if you’re looking for something a little heartier, try items on the rotating menu, such as the beef heart guisado (stewed beef heart) or puerco asado (roasted pork). Pro-tip: Check Instagram or Facebook for the lunch and brunch menus. For dinner, Sanchez is always cooking something special for his chef’s table menu, whether he creates dishes inspired by family recipes or hosts a themed night like an Italian dinner or an international ceviche special. Give the kitchen a ring for a seat at the table.

Oak Steakhouse

STEAKHOUSE

Expensive

Downtown. 17 Broad St. (843) 722-4220

oaksteakhouserestaurant.com

Serving Dinner (daily)

Located in a restored 150-year-old bank building, Oak is a long-running favorite for a big Charleston night out. Hefty prime ribeyes and strips are the main attractions, with luxurious family-style accompaniments like creamy whipped potatoes and lobster mac and cheese. Within the traditional steakhouse format, there is always a twist or two, like a daily local seafood special or beef belly with sorghum barbecue sauce. The deep wine list focuses on California reds, and the service is reliably top-notch, regardless of whether you eat downstairs in the bar area, with its exposed brick walls and clubby red leather booths, or at the white cloth-draped tables in the second story dining room, its high windows looking out over Broad Street.

The Obstinate Daughter

SEAFOOD/SOUTHERN

Moderate

Sullivan’s Island. 2063 Middle St. (843) 416-5020 theobstinatedaughter.com

Serving Lunch (Mon.-Fri.), Dinner (daily), Weekend Brunch

At The Obstinate Daughter, executive chef Jacques Larson’s big, open kitchen has a plancha and a wood-fired oven, and he uses it to create a beguiling array of pizzas, pastas and small plates. The pizzas bear tempting toppings, like guanciale, white anchovy or pancetta. The dishes on the rotating “plates” menu range in size from

griddled octopus with crispy potatoes and black olive tapenade to swordfish siciliana with green olives, capers, tomatoes, raisins and currant. Fluffy ricotta gnocchi are topped with an intensely flavorful short rib ragu with tender strands of beef in a pool of reddish orange tomato-tinged jus. OD boasts a cheery, casual environment for enjoying Larson’s impressive parade of delicate but flavorful dishes. And that makes it one of the best upscale dining destinations not just out on the beaches, but anywhere in town.

The Ordinary

SEAFOOD

Expensive Downtown. 544 King St. (843) 414-7060 eattheordinary.com

Serving Dinner (Tues.-Sun.)

In December 2012, a historic King Street bank building found new life as an upscale oyster hall. The Ordinary — second child of Adam Nemirow and chef Mike Lata — opened with soaring 22-foot ceilings, the promise of locally sourced seafood and lots of buzz.The Ordinary was the first of its kind. While regularly packed and filled with an upbeat ambiance, The Ordinary’s high ceilings diffuse the jovial noise to a pleasant buzz. Along with six daily varieties of raw oysters on the half shell, the house-smoked oysters are not to be missed. Presented in an oil and vinegarfilled preserve jar and spiked with slices of crisp pickled celery, the six oysters are so gently smoked that they are still raw. As a result, each is tender and juicy, the delicate hint of ocean flavor touched with woodsy smoke. Served with fancied-up saltines (brushed with butter and Old Bay), rich, cold creme fraiche and vibrant hot sauce, the combination is outstanding: cool, crisp and smoky all at once.

Peninsula Grill

NEW SOUTHERN

Very Expensive Downtown. 112 N. Market St. (843) 723-0700

peninsulagrill.com

Serving Dinner (daily)

There are milestones in life that require a fancy steak. Or at least the kind of place where one can get a fancy steak. If you’re in the midst of such an occasion, Peninsula Grill has got you covered. Even after more than two decades, Peninsula Grill continues to impress with its luxurious fare. Executive chef Kalen Fortuna

continued on page 38

GARY A. LING

Top 50 has taken the helm, bringing with him over a decade of fine dining experience with plans to change the restaurant’s course. “We’re trying to take it in a much more refined aspect,” Fortuna said about the restaurant’s new direction. “A lot less meat and the stuff that’s been there for a long time. It’s really just trying to put nice, beautifully composed plates on the dish and working a lot with local farmers & seafood.”

Post House Restaurant

MODERN AMERICAN

Expensive Mount Pleasant. 101 Pitt St. (843) 203-7678 theposthouseinn.com

Serving Dinner (daily); Weekend Brunch

Post House Restaurant opened in Mount Pleasant in August 2020 after undergoing significant renovations led by Kate and Ben Towill of design and hospitality firm Basic Projects. Post House is a reincarnation of The Old Village Post House, which closed in February 2019 after 16 years at 101 Pitt St. The Towills completely redesigned the circa-1896 space, moving the main dining room to the back of the restaurant and the bar to face Pitt Street. The space is adorned with antiques, vintage rugs, local art, archival wallpaper and handcrafted fixtures. You’ll find seasonal snacks, raw bar options, fresh pastas, local seafood and an assortment of vegetarian dishes at Post House. Local seafood massaman curry, Carolina heritage farm pork with creamy kimchi collard greens and a “backbar” cheeseburger are some of the main dishes that pair with starters like lamb wraps or Anson Mills cornbread. Post House also features an expansive wine list with bottles from around the world, and those looking for a staycation can grab a room in the quaint inn connected to the restaurant.

Renzo

PIZZA

Moderate Downtown. 384 Huger St. (843) 952-7864 renzochs.com

Serving Dinner (Tues.-Sat.)

This former storefront-turned-hip neighborhood trattoria has a wood-fired oven and knows how to use it. Along with tempting starters like ricotta gnudi, charred broccolini or cavatelli, the menu features a trio of pastas, plus an array of creative Neapolitan-style pizzas. Feeling

adventurous? The Cheli offers a tomato base with lamb sausage, tangy pickled peppers, honey and za’atar. There’s a bagel brunch on Sundays, plus Renzo offers one of the area’s largest selections of natural wine.

Rodney Scott’s BBQ

BARBECUE

Inexpensive

Downtown. 1011 King St. (843) 990-9535

rodneyscottsbbq.com

Serving Lunch, Dinner (daily)

Rodney Scott made waves in 2017 when, after two decades of cooking hogs at his family’s acclaimed operation in Hemingway, he brought his traditional burn barrel style of barbecue down to Charleston. That splendid whole hog — basted in a pepper-laced sauce and pulled into long, succulent strands — remains the foundation of Scott’s offering on King Street, but he’s added a few new options for the city crowd, like meaty spareribs, crisp fried catfish and craft beer on tap. The flawless collards and the ribeye sandwiches, made from pitsmoked steak sliced thin and piled high on soft rolls, are must-try sleepers.

Royal Tern

SEAFOOD

Expensive Johns Island. 3005 Maybank Hwy. (843) 718-3434

theroyaltern.com

Serving Dinner (Mon.-Sat.)

Set on Johns Island between Wild Olive and Minero, The Royal Tern is a welcome and well-positioned addition to that existing pair of successful Maybank Highway restaurants. With a focus on fish, the menu offers an aquarium-full of options. Along with a raw bar, there are a handful of sandwiches, a half-dozen seafood entrees and a hat trick of woodfired steaks. The building is also glorious. Outside, it’s effortlessly stylish and would look just as appropriate nestled amongst a row of upscale beachfront estates. Inside, the chic, airy space boasts wood floors and high ceilings adorned with dramatic lights that resemble giant clusters of white grapes. The interior incorporates a number of current trends, including an open kitchen, marbletopped bar and miles of banquette seating. One of the best-looking joints in the area, The Royal Tern offers a hip place to scratch a variety of seafood itches on Johns Island.

Top 50 from page 37

SHIKI

SEAFOOD

Moderate

Downtown. 334 E Bay St. (843) 720-8568

shikicharleston.com

Serving Dinner (Mon.-Sat.)

One of downtown’s longest standing restaurants, SHIKI delivers fresh sushi rolls, nigiri and more in a cozy, recently renovated dining room. Owner Hae Gon “David” Park opened SHIKI at 334 East Bay St. in 2001 after moving to Charleston from New York City, where he worked at esteemed sushi restaurants like Yuraku, serving as head sushi chef for five years. The chef prides himself on sourcing the highest-quality fish and his

technique when making rolls, sashimi and nigiri that is second to none. Patrons who want to go big can order the chef’s choice “omakase,” which translates to “I’ll leave it up to you” in Japanese. Chef Park will bring out a seemingly endless assortment of sashimi and nigiri bites, allowing guests to try a little bit of everything. For less devout sushi enthusiasts, there are approachable options like tempura shrimp and avocado rolls, teriyaki beef, pork katsu and more. Shiki’s menu hasn’t changed much over the years, but why would it, as the restaurant helps fill a void in a city that has very few sushi-focused

“A Taste of Living in Charleston is a must-have to bring a bit of Charleston to any Kitchen...”

—Nathalie Dupree

“...So refreshing! Bobby shares generations of recipes and stories passed down to him, which I learned upon moving to Charleston are markers of classic Southern Cuisine.”

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Big portions at a reasonable price are the name of the game at Stella’s

Top 50

restaurants. Next time you’re in the mood for high quality sushi, give this family owned and operated restaurant a try.

Slightly North of Broad

NEW SOUTHERN

Expensive

Downtown. 192 East Bay St. (843) 723-3424

snobcharleston.com

Serving Lunch (Mon.-Fri.), Dinner (daily), Weekend Brunch

Slightly North of Broad is the perfect place to take visiting friends for their first taste of Charleston cuisine, for it embodies so much of what makes the city’s dining scene special. Since taking the reins in 2016, executive chef Russ Moore has deftly balanced the restaurant’s traditional dishes with more forward-looking fare. Pristinely fresh seafood gets an elegant Southern touch on plates like New Bedford scallops with tomato ham hock broth or seared tuna topped with crisp fried oysters and tart yellow “mustard Q” sauce. SNOB was a local charcuterie pioneer and a platter of hearty country pate, savory pork rillettes and lush chicken liver mousse is the perfect evening starter.

Stella’s

GREEK

Moderate

Downtown. 114 St. Philip St. (843) 400-0026

stellascharleston.com

Serving Dinner (Mon.-Sat.)

It’s hard to say what’s most striking about Stella’s on St. Philip Street. Is it the hip, yet boisterous vibe? The large portions at an incredibly reasonable price point? Or the vast, authentic and consistently delicious menu? Regardless of your ultimate conclusion, this is a trifecta worth a visit… or five. The grilled octopus and spanakopita are simple perfection, while the saganaki is a visual showstopper and an excuse to pig out on cheese. Stella’s own recipes — namely her calamari and braised lamb shank with No. 5 noodles and brown butter shank sauce, are at once comforting and elevated, testimony to the woman who inspired it all.

Sushi-Wa

SUSHI

Expensive

Downtown. 1503 King St. Extension. (843) 735-8633

Sushiwacharleston.com

Serving dinner (Wed.-Sun.)

If you’re looking for an intimate date

night with your significant other and a rare experience in the Southeast, head to Sushi-Wa. This restaurant brings the traditional Japanese omakase dining experience to the Lowcountry, with chefs and owners Kazu Murakami and Chris Schoedler taking your taste buds on a culinary journey. The chefs curate what you eat during a special multi-course meal with decisions based on something pre-determined by the chef. Book a night out on Resy, or follow Sushi-Wa on Instagram and you might be able to snag a last-minute spot — if you’re lucky.

Vern’s

NEW AMERICAN

Expensive Downtown. 41 Bogard St. vernschs.com

Serving dinner (Thurs.-Mon.), weekend brunch

Tucked on the corner of Bogard and Ashe streets, Vern’s is the definition of a friendly neighborhood dining spot. And boy, is it popular. This New American restaurant offers family-style meals, which allow everyone at a table to enjoy dishes like gnochetti sardi, a rich and creamy gnocchi dish with arugula and walnut pesto, or the bavette steak with a sweet-tart balsamic glaze. If you get the chance to stop by for weekend brunch, don’t miss the sesame seed pancakes that embrace slices of local fruit and whipped ricotta for a delicate balance of sweet, creamy and nutty flavors. This, however, is a dish you might not want to share.

Wild Common

MODERN AMERICAN

Expensive Downtown. 103 Spring St. WildCommonCharleston.com

Serving dinner (Wed.-Sun.)

The experience at Wild Common is different every time. Executive Chef Orlando Pagán changes the menu daily for a one-of-a-kind dinner. Some items on the menu may start with crab rice with kimchi or a baked oyster for some funk. And if you’re feeling fancy AND funky, throw in a caviar course to liven up the night. Other past menu items include the delightfully pink Unicorn grits from Marsh Hen Mill with yeasted cultured butter or a robust duck breast with mushroom quiche. For dessert, expect something playful like the chef’s elevated take on a Fig Newton or the chocolate and blood orange terrine with a citrus marmalade, hazelnut and dark

Top 50 from page 39

chocolate. No two experiences are ever the same. How cool.

Wild Olive

ITALIAN

Expensive

Johns Island. 2867 Maybank Hwy. (843) 737-4177

wildoliverestaurant.com

Serving Dinner (daily)

Right off Maybank Highway sits Wild Olive, chef Jacques Larson’s haven for exquisite Italian fare. Since 2009, it has served as the go-to place for anniversary dinners and reunions with old friends. A comfortable bar greets those looking for a casual bite, but don’t let that relaxed atmosphere deceive you. Larson’s food is anything but. Incredible (and decadent) risotto fritters stuffed with sausage, spinach, Parmesan and mozzarella are a great way to start. And always ask about the specials, of which there are plenty. A past highlight was a pappardelle with prosciutto, pork and escarole. Larson is a firm believer in local and his conviction permeates everything on the plate.

Zero Restaurant + Bar

MODERN AMERICAN

Very expensive Downtown. 0 George St. (843) 817-7900

zerogeorge.com

Serving Dinner (Tues.-Sun.)

On the grounds of the elegant Zero George Street Boutique Hotel, Zero Restaurant + Bar’s romantic dining room is set in a former carriage house built in 1804. Here, chef Vinson Petrillo whips up innovative tasting menus with the option of four or seven courses, plus optional wine pairings. Selections vary with the seasons, but anticipate such treats as lightly grilled mackerel served with foie gras and local citrus, or venison prepared with vadouvan curry and taleggio cheese. Hit up happy hour for a craft cocktail; whether wielding a lead pipe or the candlestick, the bourbon-based Colonel Mustard is sure to pack a punch.

TRIED AND TRUE HOLY CITY EATERIES CHARLESTON’S FAVORITES

ALVIN ORD’S SANDWICH SHOP

2875 Ashley River Road Suite 5, West Ashley (843) 501-7811

1291 Folly Road #119, James Island (843) 804-9060 alvinordschs.com

Annie O’Love’s Cafe of Sweet Abundance

ANNIE O’LOVE’S

CAFE OF SWEET ABUNDANCE

MacDaddy Nachos, Holy Frijoles

Quesadillas, Fungi Sammie, Cheesus Crust Toast, Annie O’atmeal Cream Pie Cookie, Cookie Monsters Cookie of Abundance

1901 Ashley River Road, Charleston (843) 225-8368 • annieolovegranola.com

BRASSERIE LA BANQUE

Saturday and Sunday Brunch. 1 Broad St. brasserielabanque.com (843) 779-1800

GABRIELLE AT HOTEL BENNETT

Bold and flavorful dining overlooking Marion Square 404 King St., Downtown (844) 713-0404 GabrielleDining.com

LEGEND DELI

41-A George St., Charleston (843) 793-4984 • legenddeli.com

CHARLESTON OYSTER HOUSE

Oyster Shooter, She Crab Soup, Whole Crispy Red Snapper, Seafood Trio, Shrimp and Grits, Seafood Casserole 35 S. Market St., Charleston (843) 723-1151 oysterhouse.menu

GENE’S HAUFBRAU

Southwest Burger, Buffayaki or Southern Fried Wings, The Motherload Burger, Fried Pork Chop Sandwich, Buffalo Chicken Sandwich

817 Savannah Hwy., Charleston (843) 225-4363 facebook.com/genescharleston

LEWIS BARBECUE

El Sancho Sandwich, Texas Hot Guts, Beef Brisket, Pork Spare Ribs, Green Chile Corn Pudding, Mac and Cheese, Brisket Nachos, Banana Pudding 464 N. Nassau St., Downtown (843) 805-9500 • lewisbarbecue.com

ART’S BAR & GRILL

413 Coleman Blvd., Mount Pleasant (843) 849-3040 artsbarandgrillsc.com

EAST BAY DELI

Chief Reuben, The Citadel, buffalo chicken wrap, crunchy salad.

1120 Oakland Market Road, Mount Pleasant • (843) 216-5423,

334 E. Bay St. Suite H, Downtown (843) 723-1234,

405 Dorchester Road, North Charleston (843) 747-1235,

858 Savannah Hwy., West Ashley (843) 571-2244,

9135 University Blvd., North Charleston (843) 553-7374

2519 N. Main St. Suite B, Summerville (843) 471-2444 • eastbaydeli.com

HANK’S SEAFOOD RESTAURANT

Award-winning restaurant recreates a classic Charleston Fish House with an old fashioned saloon-style bar and an exhibition raw bar.

10 Hayne St., Downtown (843) 723-3474 hanksseafoodrestaurant.com

LOCALS SUSHI

Laid-back, late-night hangout offering sushi, cocktails, beer and a roster of live entertainment

1150 Queensborough Blvd. Suite B, Mount Pleasant, (843) 388-5114

1680 Olde Towne Road, West Ashley, (843) 763-3908 • localssushi.com

BAR VAUTÉ

The Bar Below the Street. 1 Broad St., Floor B, brasserielabanque.com (843) 779-1800

ELEVE AT GRAND BOHEMIAN HOTEL

Shrimp and Grits: Jimmy red’s grits, sugar snap peas, andouille sausage, holy trinity creamy blackened sauce, pea shoots

55 Wentworth St., Charleston (843) 724-4144

HOLY CITY BAGELS

Bagels, Breakfast and Brunch Sandwiches, Coffee and Espresso Bar 43 Cannon St., Charleston (843) 779-2314 holeycitybagels.com

MAYA CHARLESTON

Tostada De Atun, Al Pastor Taco, Pollo en Mole, Hotel Oaxaca Cocktail, Mezcal Gelato

479-B King St., Charelston (843) 789-4299 • mayachs.com

BOHEMIAN BULL

Build Your Own Burger, Wings, Classic Reuben, Southern Fried Chicken Sandwich

1531 Folly Road, James Island

(843) 225-1817

2668 Hwy. 17N, Mount Pleasant (843) 654-9141 bohemianbull.com

kesslercollection.com/bohemiancharleston

HOLY CITY BREWING

Favorites: Holy City Burger, Chicken Wings, Soft Pretzels 1021 Aragon Ave., North Charleston (843) 819-6534 holycitybrewing.com

NIRLEP INDIAN RESTAURANT

Chicken Tikka Masala, Garlic Naan, Lamb/ Goat Curry, Samosas, Lunch Buffet 908 Savannah Hwy. (843) 763-9923

nirlepindianrestaurant.com/store

PERIWINKLE KITCHEN & JUICE BAR

Coastal Gourmet Breakfast, Lunch

Carryout Dinners and Juice Bar

4430 Betsy Kerrison Parkway, Johns Island (843) 243-7629 periwinklekitchenatkiawah.com

SUNRISE BISTRO

Breakfast burrito, open faced omelets, grits bowl, shrimp and grits

1039 Johnnie Dodds Ave., Mount Pleasant (843) 856-7796

1797 Main Road, Johns Island (843) 718-1858

110 Miles Jamison Road, Summerville (843) 225-6201 sunrise-bistro.com

RANCHO LEWIS

Beef Enchiladas, Chiles Rellenos, Chile con Queso, Coctel de Shrimp, Fajitas, Sopapillas, Margaritas, Rattlesnake Milk

1503 King St., Downtown (843) 996-4500 • rancholewischs.com

TRIANGLE CHAR & BAR

Killer burgers, a sweet selection of tacos, eclectic entrees and an array of tasty bar snacks—all available for takeout!

828 Savannah Hwy., West Ashley (843) 377-1300 trianglecharandbar.com

RED’S ICE HOUSE

Bubba shrimp platter, smokehouse platter, palmetto burger, Old Bay shrimp salad, wild buffalo chicken wrap

98 Church St., Mount Pleasant (843) 388-0003 • redsicehouse.com

VICKERY’S

Lowcountry Saute, Shrimp, Sausage and Grits, Classic Cuban Sandwich, Mahi Club, Cashew Encrusted Tuna Salad

1313 Shrimp Boat Lane, Mount Pleasant (843) 884-4440 vickerysmtp.com

SANTI’S

Amazing margaritas, great meals and a great staff!

1302 Meeting Street Road

1471 Ben Sawyer Blvd., Mount Pleasant (843) 722-2633 • santisrestaurante.com

ESSAY

A NEW CUISINE BLOSSOMS IN CHARLESTON

By Raheel Gauba

How do you navigate uncharted territory, particularly in the restaurant business when you know you would be the first here to attempt something with all eyes aimed at you? You conquer it with something more powerful than no experience: Passion.

After migrating to Canada in the late 1990s, we carried fond memories of formative years locked in our hearts to a new country and way of life. It was hard. It was scary. Sometimes lonely. With new friends in tow, we would avidly seek people and places that gave us a glimpse of our lives we left behind. We loved visiting Pakistani restaurants, often multiple times a week. At a table overflowing with chaats, kababs, biryanis and curries, we made new memories while reminiscing the times past.

Then when we moved to Charleston almost 17 years ago, we found ourselves in a city with zero Pakistani restaurants. The closest one was three hours and one state away in Charlotte. This realization sparked the dream of one day opening our very own Pakistani restaurant in Charleston. The first one in the state of South Carolina. Our goal was to elevate Pakistani cuisine and a guest’s experience in a way that hadn’t been done before.

Living in a food-forward city like Charleston, we got the opportunity to collaborate and learn from best-of-breed chefs and restaurateurs. A common thread that united us was our unwavering enthusiasm to do justice to everyone’s respective cuisines.

Most, if not all, Pakistani restaurants in the west are hypercasual, hole-in-the-wall establishments. This meant that we would be among the first to deliver an elevated experience for a Pakistani restaurant — casual or otherwise. Enter Malika Canteen, Charleston’s first Pakistani restaurant opened in 2021 in Mount Pleasant. It is our fresh take on casual Pakistani dining. Meanwhile, our new flagship restaurant was under construction in downtown Charleston. We realized that this one needed a different approach… a deeper focus on core principles. We

learned that our dream restaurant had to embrace tradition by understanding and honoring its roots, techniques and the ingredients which shaped the cuisine dating back to the Mughal era in the 16th to 19th centuries. We also had to master the techniques specific to our culinary tradition. And we had to pay homage to our history while innovating and looking forward. We also knew we had to deliver a rich flavor profile and a modern presentation to elevate the culinary point of view of Pakistani cuisine. Finally, we wanted our flagship restaurant to engage all senses in delightful and unexpected ways. It was essential to incorporate traditional architectural

details, moving images and modern music from the Asian subcontinent with an approach to hospitality that felt local and familiar.

Here we are 17 years later. The dream has finally come true. It’s a privilege to welcome you to South Carolina’s second Pakistani restaurant, Ma’am Saab, where you can expect elevated Pakistani fare, craft cocktails and Southern hospitality with a charm that is uniquely Charleston. We look forward to getting to know you and sharing a beautiful evening with you.

Rūta Smith

Raheel Gauba and his wife, chef Maryam Ghaznavi, opened Ma’am Saab on Meeting Street in June.

Gauba

Gauba (right) and his wife, chef Maryam Ghaznavi, pose with the restaruant menu

The Culinary Institute of Charleston at Trident Technical College offers a wide array of in-person and online program offerings to meet the diverse training needs of the culinary and hospitality industry.

Tuition-free thru ‘24! Most S.C. residents can get FREE tuition for all culinary and hospitality credit programs.

Noncredit courses and community interest sessions are also offered as well as specific industry training workshops.