Charleston City Paper: Dish Dining Guide, Fall 2023

Fall 2023 || Free

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Dellzville has a bowl for everyone

Editor and Publisher: Andy Brack Assistant Publisher: Cris Temples

editorial Managing Editor: Samantha Connors News: Skyler Baldwin, Herb Frazier, Connelly Hardaway, Chloe Hogan, Lily Levin, Hillary Reaves Intern: Mary Martha Beard Contributors: Amethyst Ganaway, Michael Pham, Tiare Solis, Libby Swope Wiersema

sales Advertising Director: Cris Temples Account Executives: Aynsley Barnett Kristin Byars Ashley Frantz Mariana Robbins Gregg Van Leuven Sales Assistant: Julian Harrell

Rūta Smith

It’s fall, y’all. While it may not always feel like it around here, local farmers, chefs and restaurateurs are ready to celebrate all of the abundance the Lowcountry has to offer, from sea to sports games.

If there’s anything more autumnal than a Lowcountry oyster roast we have yet to find it. In this issue of our quarterly Dish, writer Amethyst Ganaway digs into the history of oysters in the Lowcountry. We’ve also got the scoop on the state’s pecans, which are harvested in the fall and featured on the South Carolina Pecan Trail. Our Florence-based writer

Libby Swope Wiersema cracks the case on the nuttiest tourist attraction this side of the Mississippi.

Tiare Solis has all the hot tips and tricks for hosting an elevated tailgate — barbacoa anyone? — and Michael Pham tracked down local restaurants serving up healthy and filling meals in big ol’ bowls. Don’t miss this issue’s essay from Ray England, executive chef at Husk, who dives into the unsexy aspects of being a chef.

As always, we’ve got you covered with our Top 50 list of restaurants; be sure to keep an eye out for some new additions. And if you’re still dying to try the area’s newest and hottest spots, well, you can find those on the aptly titled Hotlist.

Happy eating, y’all. —Connelly Hardaway

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The not-so-secret tips to elevate your tailgate

Charleston is forever connected to the lowly bivalve

Pecan love in the Pee Dee finds expression in trails, fests and culinary traditions

A look at the increasingly popular all-in-one meal inside a bowl

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Here’s where to go if you’re looking for something new

Our top restaurants in Charleston for Fall 2023

A list of all our advertisers in this issue

Ray England reveals what chefs don’t tell you about leading a kitchen

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The CP Hotlist

Art Director: Scott Suchy Production Director: Déla O’Callaghan Graphic Designer: Christina Bailey Staff Photographer: Rūta Smith

distribution Circulation Team: James Barron, Robert Hogg, Makena Hohl, Stephen Jenkins, David Lampley, Spencer Martin, John Melnick, Michael Pham, Maddy Caruso Published by City Paper Publishing, LLC

on the cover Oysters on the half shell at Bowens Island Restaurant, photographed by Rūta Smith.

inside Game plan

design

A city built on oysters

The Dish Top 50

Nuts for nuts

Dish Advertising Directory

Bowled over

On the unsexy side of being a chef

Dish is a publication of the Charleston City Paper and is published quarterly

by City Paper Publishing, LLC. All content is copyrighted and the property of City Paper Publishing, LLC. Charleston City Paper P.O. Box 21942 Charleston, SC 29413 (843) 577-5304 charlestoncitypaper.com

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The not-so-secret tips to elevate your tailgate

he uniquely American experience of tailgating has long been a treasured activity that borders on ritualism for many. Here in the South, where college ball rules the land, it’s hard to imagine some tailgate food options go beyond takeout nuggies or carry-out wings-with-ranch. With that said, some folks want a different tailgate experience: an experience that satisfies both the foodies and their friends who are tailgate purists, one that is just as easy to carry out but may have just a little something extra.

The tailgate has come to take many forms. While some prefer to order tailgate foods from their favorite restaurants or caterers, many still make their specialties at home.

So how does one elevate the tailgate?

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continued on page 8

Photos by Rūta Smith

Cru Cafe’s chef Rachel Blumenstock wows crowds with her gameday recipe, “chicks-in-a-blanket”

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Tailgate from page 6

BBQ pros weigh in

Courtesy Swig and Swine

The PB&J wings at Swig & Swine might just transport you back to childhood with this nostalgic — and delicious — flavor

For those who want a straightforward and classic tailgate package, the veteranowned barbecue spot Swig & Swine BBQ has you covered.

With three catering-style packages dedicated solely to tailgates, Swig & Swine’s options make things easy for those who love the meats.

Each package offers two to four pounds of pulled pork, and other barbecued meats with sides. Still, the unexpected recommendation from the pitmaster and owner of Swig & Swine, Anthony DiBernardo, would have to be DiBernardo the peanut butter and jelly wings.

“It’s that nostalgic flavor from when you were a kid,” DiBernado said. “It’s hard to get someone to try things at the

restaurant, but when you bait them into trying it, you can bring them over.”

DiBernardo added that if tailgaters want to make food at home, there are always ways to upgrade tailgate food, even the classic burger.

“You can elevate that burger by grinding brisket,” DiBernardo said. “That can be a way to take the brisket, and use it for an elevated experience.”

Rodney Scott, pitmaster and coowner of Rodney Scott’s BBQ, also offers a tailgate package and popular handheld options.

“We have fantastic chicken wings and lots of times run specials for game days. Ribs are always very popular — big, pit-cooked, spare ribs. Our fried pork skins are a great snack and are fantastic dipped in our Alabama white sauce or any of our barbecue sauces. We also have a special tailgate package with lots of choices for a crowd,” Scott said.

Fun with a touch of fancy

The Habit on East Bay Street prides itself on a fun and elevated menu.

Likewise, it recognizes the versatility of

A VARIETY OF CUISINES AND LOCATIONS FOR YOUR

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HOLIDAY CELEBRATIONS.

THEINDIGOROAD.COM/CHARLESTON-EVENTS

its 13,000-square-foot space. It acknowledges the ability to take V’s, the restaurant’s speakeasy, endowed with three large screens, and use it as a space for sporting events during game season.

But that’s not all: The rooftop at The Habit is home to cabana-like seating where guests can view their game of choice on a private TV with friends.

Each of the three floors at The Habit has televisions that play college games every Saturday.

With great spaces comes great responsibility and a responsibility to variability that must come together with great food.

“We have really great chicken wings,” said The Habit’s chef Matthew Greene.

“They’re not tossed in buffalo sauce, but we do great burgers, and you can share chicken bites, eat caviar and get a bottle of Champagne, but it doesn’t have to be like a sports bar. If you want, [you can] drink a bottle of Ace of Spades and eat caviar while you watch sports.”

In addition to the out-of-the-box red curry marinated crispy chicken wings Greene mentioned, The Habit’s fried chicken sandwich, which was inspired by his father, and the smash burger are fun tailgate food options.

“Everyone knows you gotta have a burger on the menu,” he said. “The meat we sourced is North Carolina Brasstown beef. It’s all grass-fed. … You [also] have to have fried chicken on the menu.”

Greene said he uses a secret brine for the chicken, but the key is the breading.

“The crust has a breading mixed with ground-up Cornflakes, which keeps it crunchy. My old man worked for Kellogg’s growing up, so it’s a little nod to dad,” he said with a laugh, giving way to the fact that a critical ingredient includes a touch of home with even the most upscale tailgate items.

For the homemade tailgate food-lover

Rodney Scott’s barbecue ribs are the perfect entree to pick up for your next tailgate definitely charcuterie and cheese platters.”

Blumenstock shared with Charleston City Paper a dish she invented that combines many of those homegrown handheld dishes.

“It’s called Chicks-in-a-Blanket. It’s like a take on Pigs-in-a-Blanket, but you make deviled eggs and stuff it with sausage, cheese, sour cream and chives, then roll it in a croissant dough and bake it in the oven.”

Blumenstock said she makes them at least once a year, and with those flavors, who wouldn’t want a bite?

Rodney Scott added that there is no way to pit-fire barbecue in the time before the game, but he likes to grill chicken and shrimp with veggies in the backyard. Scott also offered a game day secret: “Pimento cheese is great with Scott the fried pork skins instead of a cracker,” Scott said.

“It’s all game food,” Blumenstock said, cementing a fact many tailgate enthusiasts already know: A sense of tradition, nostalgia and simplicity ultimately lead to the best tailgate foods.

charlestoncitypaper.com || 9

There are always those football fans who prefer homemade tailgate food.

These flavors conjure up weekends at home with friends and family, yelling at players as if they can hear them through the TV. Cru Cafe chef Rachel Blumenstock shared her tailgate tips, which are a familiar nod to that feeling of nostalgia.

“When I go to Super Bowl parties, it’s always seven-layer dips, chicken wings and hot dogs,” she said. “Some of our friends and sous chefs do barbacoa and

Courtesy Rodney Scott BBQ

A city built on oysters

By Amethyst Ganaway

The start of autumn here in the Holy City not only brings a sense of “false fall” and a reprieve from the heat and humidity, it also marks the start of one of Charleston’s favorite times of the year: oyster season.

Most still follow the guideline of harvesting and consuming oysters in months that end in “r,” or cooler weather months. Locally, the official duration of oyster season is Oct. 1 through May 1, according to the South Carolina Department of Natural Resources.

On occasion, those dates have been changed — last year the season started in some places as late as mid-October and lasted until late May due to effects from Hurricane Ian. Local oyster eaters will tell you that fresh Lowcountry oysters taste better in months with cooler weather since most oysters are spawning and growing in the spring and summer. By winter, oysters are mature, plump and a perfect blend of briny and sweet, like drinking in the saltwater marshes themselves.

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Oysters hold cultural significance

Rūta Smith

Belly up to the oyster bar at The Darling and enjoy an oyster shooter

The Charleston peninsula was once called Oyster Point, named for the prehistoric oyster shell ring mounds left by indigenous tribes in the days before Charles Town was settled in the 1670s.

Tribes like the Kiawah are said to have used these for everything from cultural ceremonies and communal feasts to an early form of ecological preservation. The mounds are so large, they can be seen from the sky.

Oysters around Charleston Craving oysters this fall? Here are some local places to get the treasured bivalve raw, baked or served in even more creative ways.

Bowens Island Restaurant Bowens Island Restaurant is a Charleston fish camp legend known for its hot, steamed Lowcountry cluster oysters in the fall and winter.

It also has a newly opened raw bar, where you can get a mix of local single oysters shucked and served right in front of you to order all year round.

167 Raw Oyster Bar 167 Raw quickly became a go-to place for fresh oysters. Alongside a variety of oysters, you can get a plethora of fresh seafood and caviar service. In between raw oysters, share a plate of roasted oysters or crispy oysters with a drink pairing from the bar.

Bowens Island Restaurant serves raw and steamed bivalves The Browns have successfully sustained their business by supplying oysters to the Charleston area, especially when business is in full swing due to the longtime Lowcountry tradition of the oyster roast. Between October and April, the Lowcountry likely hosts hundreds of oyster roasts for businesses and personal consumption.

The Lowcountry Oyster Festival held at Boone Hall Plantation and Gardens saw in 2022 more than 10,000 attendees.

Isabella MacBeth, Charleston native and U.S. national oyster shucking champion, has worked at and managed some of the best oyster bars around the city for

Sorelle

Photos by Rūta Smith

the Gulf Coast and Atlantic Coast of North America. Both oyster farmers and harvesters in this state use this oyster.”

What makes each oyster unique in outward appearance and taste, is the merrior, which is how the land, air and water all —Tom Bierce contribute to the characteristics, including the taste, more than 10 years. Here in Charleston, of a particular ingredient. an abundant variety of oysters can be “In the cooler months, as much as I found in stores and on menus, but one enjoy [oysters] raw, I find the steamed thing they have in common is their species. local clusters on a table outside sur“South Carolina only has one oyster rounded by friends and family to be one of species or variety: the Crassostrea the greatest events in life,” MacBeth said.

Virginica or the Eastern Oyster,” MacBeth said. “This oyster is native to continued on page 12

“Eating farmed oysters is actually having a benefit on the health of wild oyster populations by increasing the overall shell input and taking harvest pressure off wild reefs.”

The oysters at Sorelle scream decadence. Served with six Royal Miyagi oysters, honeydew mignonette and limoncello, the Ostriche Crude is not the typical oyster appetizer. The Royal Miyagi oysters are the Crassostrea gigas species, coming from the cold waters of British Columbia. Lightly briney and a little fruity, these oysters are little pops of luxury in your mouth.

The Darling Oyster Bar Step off of bustling King Street into The Darling, where you can people watch and slurp down fresh oysters at one of the 14 raw bar seats that face the busy street. Start off with an oyster shooter, then get a few baked oysters for an appetizer.

Fill up on the assortment of fresh oysters brought in from around the country for your entree before ending with a nightcap.

Oyster House Start your meal off with fire-roasted oyster on the half shell or a dozen raw oysters to share with the table before enjoying a seafood platter with fried oysters and your choice of sides.

charlestoncitypaper.com || 11

The history of oysters in Charleston is also rooted in Black communities. When enslaved West Africans were brought to the Lowcountry, they often came from coastal areas and were extremely skilled fishermen and oystermen.

Oysters were used as a food source, and their shells were recycled to make building material, fertilizer, tools and jewelry. Pre- and post-Civil War, the Gullah Geechee communities along the coasts utilized the waterways around them. They often supplyed the area with seafood by creating their own businesses in areas such as oystering — a tradition still carried on today.

Terrell Brown, owner of Brown’s Oyster Supply on James Island, is carrying on his own family’s legacy.

“I got started in the oyster industry through my father.

It was my fifth grade job shadow day. We got left by the tide. Gnats were biting, and it rained on us. I told myself that day I would never do this,” he said.

Brown “Fast forward 10 years, I asked him if I could work with him. He told me to buy a pair of waders and to see him in the morning.”

As the tide goes out and reveals the oyster beds deep in the marsh, Brown, his partner Jodie, and his father Richard, are out on their boat. Harvesting the oysters by hand, they go out in bodynumbing cold temperatures, knee high or deeper in sticky pluff mud. Picking and harvesting wild oysters is half of the battle and takes years of trained practice with a skilled eye.

With a hammer, pieces of dead, broken, or too small or young oysters are quickly knocked off of the cluster oysters as they are pulled out of the sinking mud.

By the time the tide has creeped in, the boat is full of baskets, or bushels, of oysters, ready to be washed and bagged up for sale. To Brown, the hard work is worth it.

“My most memorable moments working in the oystering industry is being able to work alongside my dad,” he said.

“He taught me everything I know.”

Rūta Smith file photo

Charleston Oyster Farm’s oysters take pressure off wild reefs

Oysters from page 11

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Oysters and the environment

The history of oyster roasts stretches back more than 200 years in Charleston, and our consumption of thousands of pounds of oysters every year has an important impact on the Charleston environment, too.

“Scientific research has shown that oysters are one of the only net positive things we grow for food when it comes to the environment,” MacBeth said.

Through the South Carolina Oyster Recycling and Enhancement Program (SCORE), businesses and civilians can safely recycle used oyster shells to be put back out into the ecosystem.

SCORE restores and enhances the wild oyster habitats by using the recycled oyster shells in the intertidal environment to form new, self-sustaining oyster reefs. This is not only important to strengthen the coastlines (which act as a protective barrier against tidal waves) but also helps filter ocean water.

Tom Bierce, owner of Charleston Oyster Farm, established in 2015, uses the SCORE program while farming and

supplying the area with oysters. “Our role with the farm is to provide fresh, locally grown ‘single’ oysters to restaurants and raw bars in the area to serve on the half shell,” Bierce said.

“The cycle of marsh-to-table and table-to-marsh really links our industry to the general health of our waterways,” Bierce said. “Eating farmed oysters is actually having a benefit on the health of wild oyster populations by increasing the overall shell input and taking harvest pressure off wild reefs.”

While oyster farming and recycling takes some strain off of wild oyster harvests, there are still issues.

“The rising tides present a threat to our wild oyster harvesting. But the biggest threats are man-made,” Brown said. “Overharvesting, sewage spills, septic failures, pesticides, unaware new boaters digging into the oyster beds, running a motor fast through a creek … all of this is speeding up the erosion and pollution process.”

Some man-made issues can be solved through education, through programs like SCORE and tours such as those offered at Charleston Oyster Farm that give hands-on experience to show just how vital oysters are for the ecosystem.

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Pecan love in the Pee Dee finds expression in trails, fests and culinary traditions

By Libby Swope Wiersema If you’ve ever empathized with two squirrels wrestling over a fat pecan, you might be from the Pee Dee part of South Carolina.

Like those scrappy yard rascals, folks in this region tend to go a bit nuts when it comes to nuts.

While you aren’t likely to see human foragers take a pecan squabble down to the mat, you will discover that satisfying pecan envy calls for a serious but more civilized approach. It is called the South Carolina Pecan Trail, and those armed with a trail passport from the Florence Convention and Visitors Center can hunt for pecan-this and pecan-that by simply following a map — no wrestling required.

Participating restaurants, gift shops, markets and even a brewery peddle pecans in everything from scones to martinis. You can earn some nutty swag, too, by getting your passport stamped at stops along the trail: a nutcracker, embossed drawstring bag, T-shirt and a pie plate.

Not so nutty, you say? We’re just getting warmed up…

Officially nuts

In 2003, Florence officials invited the public to converge upon downtown for a common cause: to honor the humble pecan. The South Carolina Pecan Festival

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continued on page 16

Courtesy Florence Convention and Visitors Bureau

Each November, the Pee Dee goes nuts at the South Carolina Pecan, Music and Food Festival in downtown Florence

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Nuts from page 14 drew crowds with live music, concessions, kiddie attractions, food and drink.

It was a carnival vibe befitting a celebration with a lineup of events like a pecan cookoff and the Run Like a Nut 5K/10K/ half marathon.

Recently re-branded as the South Carolina Pecan, Music and Food Festival, the one-day November event boasts, on average, 50,000 attendees who come for fall fun and a taste of pecan goodies like pies, cakes, cookies and candy. This year’s event is Nov. 4.

If your town hosts a pecan celebration, let it be known that in 2011, the Florence festival was designated as the Official South Carolina State Pecan Festival by Act No. 9, Section 1. Solidifying its officialness, Travel + Leisure pronounced it the “Best Fall Festival in South Carolina” in 2017. True story.

Huguenot Torte

Libby Swope Wiersema

Though technically not a South Carolina invention, this easy-to-concoct darling of the springtime tearoom circuit (originating from an Arkansas/Missouri recipe called Ozark Pudding) embodies everything we love about fall: apples, spice and lots of fresh pecans. This recipe, adapted from the 1950 edition of Charleston Receipts by the Junior League of Charleston, cuts down on the sugar just a bit and incorporates nutmeg for a warm, autumn kick.

INGREDIENTS

(Serves 8) 2 eggs 1 cup sugar 4 Tbs. flour 2 ½ tsp. baking powder ¼ tsp. salt 1 cup chopped tart cooking apples 1 cup chopped pecans ¼ tsp. nutmeg, freshly shaved 1 tsp. vanilla

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METHOD

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. Beat whole eggs with a rotary beater until frothy and lemon-colored. Add other ingredients in order. Pour the chunky batter into a generously buttered 8-inch by 8-inch baking dish. Bake for 30 to 40 minutes or until the top is crusty and brown. Cool for 5 minutes, then use a spatula to scoop out servings onto plates, crusty top up. Serve with whipped cream or vanilla ice cream dusted with a bit of freshly shaved nutmeg.

lasers in the de-shelling process and the first to up its production with a Quantz rotary pecan cracker. They also took the cutting-edge steps of preserving crops through cold storage methods and controlling bacteria with microwaves, thereby paving the way for other successful pecan distributors across the nation.

Adios, pecans?

These days, there’s not a whole lot of pecan shelling happening in the Pee Dee. Now known as “Young’s Premium Foods,” the company packed up most of its operations and headed due west for the more prolific pecan-growing lands of New Mexico and northern Mexico.

There are still pecan farms and shellers in South Carolina — and a handful of chestnut and walnut growers — but nothing on the grand scale that was once Young’s. Still, South Carolina loves to lay claim to its favorite nut, ignoring the fact that Georgia supplies more than Days of pecans past one-third of the nation’s pecans, with The beating heart of all this light-heartNew Mexico and other Western regions edness is deeply veined by a time-honproducing the rest. (We still beat Georgia ored history dating back more than a in peach production, so there’s that…) century. That’s when T.B. Young discovYoung’s robust shelling heyday might ered the Pee Dee’s soil and climate were now be the stuff of legends in these just right for growing mammoth pecans. parts, but don’t tell that to the people “In the early of Florence.

1920s, T.B. Young Pecans are still founded the Young as prized as ever Pecan Company, here. Consider growing and a 2008 caper in collecting and which a couple shelling in-shell made off with —J.J. Martin pecans,” said 3,000 pounds of Hannah Davis, Young’s pecans development only to be nabbed manager for the city of Florence. “When during a traffic stop for a faulty tail light. the festival began in 2003, [Young Pecan] Turns out a life of crime was not all it was had established itself as a cultural icon in cracked up to be. (I just had to.) Nervy the Pee Dee, offering shelled and coated thieves? Yep. Totally nuts? You betcha. pecans. The festival was born out of a desire to bring folks downtown to witness its transformation and make it unique and P-E-C-A-N-S relatable to the region.”

Young’s flagship store still beckons countThe same goes for the South Carolina less locals and I-95 wayfarers with a Pecan Trail, which meanders through rooftop that hollers “P-E-C-A-N-S” in Florence County as a tribute to the region’s ginormous letters. And that’s not false history as a one-time giant among pecan advertising. Inside, you’ll find every producers, thanks to Young and those who kind of flavored pecan imaginable — came after him. In 1969, the company chocolate, jalapeño, praline, cinnamon banked on its Southern appeal by transiglazed, key lime, amaretto, butter toffee, tioning into “Young Plantation” and began white chocolate, salted and roasted and churning out a long list of flavored pecans, kaboodles more. There’s even a tasting baked goods and other nutty treats as bar where you can sample the varieties, well as their Mingo River line produced compliments of Young’s. for fundraising efforts. The operation dis“I don’t care where they grow these tinguished itself by being the first to use pea-cans,” said customer J.J. Martin while

“I don’t care where they grow these pea-cans.

They are so goooood.”

NOT YOUR BASIC

Pumpkin Spice Treats Young’s pecan halves come in a kaleidoscope of flavors (above) and a holiday favorite in the Pee Dee, the pecan pie (right) munching dark chocolate-dipped pecans.

A resident of nearby Lydia, he frequents Young’s for sampling and restocking his home supply. “They are so goooood.”

Stacks of neatly boxed pecans, barrels of snack bags and pecan logs and colorful tins brimming with nut combos fill the sweeping retail space, along with freshly baked goods and ice cream from the onsite kitchen and an array of South Carolina novelties. While the holidays get a little nutty with throngs of customers volleying for position to snag Young’s pecan pies, it’s all just part of the Pee Dee way of life.

Nuts for nuts

Carolina Pecan Trail with high tides of customers flooding Young’s and a likelihood of strong currents of revelers going nuts on the first Saturday of November at the South Carolina Pecan, Music and Food Festival.

And if you come this way and spy two squirrels playing tug o’ war with a plump pecan, go ahead and join the tussle. This might be the only place on Earth where nobody will fault you for it.

The South Carolina Pecan, Music and Food Festival is slated for Nov. 4 in downtown Florence with headline band, The Family Stone, and plenty of pecan eats and treats. Admission is free. Visit scpecanfestival.com for more information.

Plan your adventure on the South Carolina Pecan Trail at visitflo.com/sc-pecan-trail.

For details about Young’s Premium Foods outlet and online sales, visit youngspremiumfoods.com.

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When autumn heralds the fresh pecan harvest, locals take to tree-lined drives, small farms, and sometimes their backyards (or those of generous neighbors) to hunt for in-shell treasures. After all, it is the season for making South Carolina’s traditional pecan favorites: gooey pies and tassies, hummingbird cakes, pecan sandies, pralines and Charleston’s beloved apple- and pecan-studded Huguenot tortes.

Indeed, change comes slowly to the Pee Dee if at all, as evidenced by a pecan forecast that can be predicted with a high level of certainty: 100% chance of lipsmacking pecan dishes along the South

Photos by Libby Swope Wiersema

Dellzville offers tasty bowl options for vegetarians and meat eaters

BOWLED OVER

Rūta Smith

A look at the increasingly popular all-in-one meal inside a bowl

18 || DISH || Fall 2023

S

By Michael Pham

ome nights call for a finely plated dish with an Instagram-worthy smear of sauce and gently placed garnish. Others, though, call for a dish that’s a little less delicate but packed with flavor and textures — a mishmash of different ingredients tossed in a single bowl and ready to eat on a table or in your lap on the couch.

Sounds simple, right?

Food bowls are pretty simple but can be very versatile. Think of them like evolved salads with endless possibilities. Instead of a leafy green base, you can start the

bowl with a grain, such as a short-grain rice or quinoa, then top it with several proteins, fruits or vegetables. Finally, garnish it with citrus juices or a spicy sauce

— whatever you’re craving.

“I love bowl food because you are getting a little bit of a lot of things,” said Basic Kitchen executive chef Charlie Layton. “It’s easier to get a lot of nourishment out of one dish, especially when it comes to a restaurant setting.”

Added Kairo’s Mediterranean owner Cary Chastain: “It’s simple and fast, which is a big part of it.” And it’s perceived as healthy — if the restaurant that is providing the bowl is really acting like a restaurant and serving customers fresh ingredients. “It goes well with just about any cuisine.”

Many restaurants in Charleston are hopping on the food bowl train. Here’s where to find some in what may be becoming the, ahem, Bowlcountry.

Basic Kitchen 82 Wentworth St. (Downtown) (843) 789-4568 basickitchen.com

Basic Kitchen has a variety of different bowls on its lunch, brunch and dinner menus, but its namesake bowl, the Basic Bowl, can be found on all three.

“It’s got your three key food groups,”

Layton said. “We base the original [Basic Bowl] on kind of like a macro bowl and then try to balance everything out.”

As of Oct. 1, the Basic Bowl is made with roasted sweet potato, broccoli, citrusy kale, curried chickpeas, chimichurri and grains. But Layton said the bowl will soon change “into something new and a little bit more balanced and just a bit more healthy,” so keep an eye out on the updated bowl, or stop in now to try it as is.

Beech 864 Island Park Circle (Daniel Island) 1739 Maybank Hwy. (James Island)

Courtesy Beech

315 King St. (Downtown) 475 E. Bay St. (Downtown) 1973 Riviera Drive (Mount Pleasant)

Beech serves bowls packed with fresh fruits and veggies

beechrestaurants.com

Beech’s menu focuses on health-conscious food with several acai and poke bowls packed with fresh fruits, granola and vegetables. Each bowl is based on “the four pillars of a balanced diet: fruit, fish, rice and vegetables.”

With its acai bowls, like the Beech Bowl, the restaurant uses organic fruits and gluten-free granola for a bowl filled with nutrients and antioxidants. Its poke bowls follow the same method, using fresh fish, grains and vegetables

for a flavorful Hawaiian-inspired bowl.

Dellzville 1617 Ashley River Road (West Ashley) dellzville.com

Dellzville, once the beloved Dellz Uptown on Rutledge Avenue, is now a fun spot in West Ashley with a bright pink building and red sign on Ashley River Road. Like the other restaurants

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Basic Kitchen’s Daisy Bowl features pumpkin seed tabbouleh, tomato and cucumber salad and chicken kofta meatballs

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charlestoncitypaper.com || 19

Courtesy Basic Kitchen

Bowls from page 19 on this list, Dellzville offers health-focused foods, making nearly every dish from scratch and sourcing from local farms.

Though many options on the menu are vegan and vegetarian-friendly, there’s options for meat-eaters, like the Mahi Bowl.

The Mahi Bowl is a well-rounded dish of creaminess, crunchiness, sweetness and acidity. With wild-caught mahi, the bowl’s base uses organic rice, topped with black beans, tomato and carrots and mixed greens for some crunch, and mango salsa and avocado for a creamy texture. Squeeze the lime wedge served in the bowl to balance the meal with a tart topping.

and fresh-cooked proteins such as pork, chicken, shrimp, tofu and beef. Think of a poke bowl, but with hotter ingredients.

While Gogibop offers a handful of signature bowls, you can always customize your own, picking from dozens of ingredients. First, start with a base, choosing from different kinds of rice, sweet potato noodles or kale. Follow it up with a protein, vegetables and fruits such as corn, bean sprouts, mango and more, house-made sauces and dried toppings like wonton chips or peanuts.

Huriyali Gardens 401 Huger St. (Downtown) 2016 Wappoo Drive (James Island) (843) 207-4436 huriyali.com

Gogibop 221 Spring St. (Downtown) (843) 793-4441 gogibop.com

Jonathan Boncek file photo

Choose your own adventure at Kairo’s Mediterranean where you can build a bowl from the base up, adding proteins, veggies and more

Gogibop is one of the latest additions to downtown Charleston, located just before the bridge into West Ashley. Inspired by the Korean dish, bibimbap (rice and veggies in a bowl), Gogibop offers combination rice bowls with vegetables

Though many health-conscious folks flock to Huriyali for its juices and smoothies (winning Best Juice/Smoothie Bar in City Paper’s Best Of awards for several years), the couple-owned establishment is known best for its acai bowls (winning Best Acai Bowl in Best Of Charleston 2023).

The chocolate acai bowl may not sound healthy, but it’s packed with nutrients

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Emoji Poke 3510 Park Ave Blvd. (Mount Pleasant) (843) 654-9220 emojipoke.com

Poke Burri 835 Savannah Hwy. (West Ashley) (843) 887-8744 pokeburri.com

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Kairo’s Mediterranean 975 Savannah Hwy. (West Ashley) 1100 Bowman Road (Mount Pleasant) 1200 North Main St. (Summerville) eatkairos.com

Though Mediterranean food can typically be found wrapped in pita (gyros, for example), a lot of traditional Mediterranean ingredients such as hummus or tzatziki “jive well together” with vegetables, proteins and falafel, according to Kairo’s Mediterranean owner Cary Chastain.

With the Kairo’s Bowl, you can make it a whole different meal each time, choosing from dozens of options of greens, rice, protein, vegetables and even sauces. For Chastain, his go-to Kairo’s Bowl is half a scoop of rice and lentils, chicken, sweet potatoes, cucumber, cabbage, feta and red peppers, topped with hummus or a spicy harissa.

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and antioxidants. It’s a tasty treat that can be both dinner and dessert. The bowl is based with acai, banana, strawberry, cacao, house-made peanut butter and coconut water for an acidic, sweet and bitter trifecta of flavor and topped with cut fruit, cacao nibs, coconut flakes, pumpkin seeds, chia seeds and vegan peanut butter bars for a crunchy texture. A house-made chocolate drizzles the flavor-packed bowl for some extra creaminess.

CP Hotlist THE

Here’s where to go if you’re looking for something new

By City Paper staff This issue’s CP Hotlist shines a spotlight on notable, relatively new hot restaurants that impress our cuisine team. We encourage you to check them out, and let us know whether you think they should be added to our Top 50 list. Now on the CP Hotlist (in alphabetical order): Bintü Atelier (2023), Charleston. Bintü Atelier serves up African cuisine to excited guests who are eager to dive into familiar favorites like jollof rice, a fluffy rice dish with a connection to Charleston’s own red rice. Diners can also dig into dishes like goat egusi, a ground melon seed stew with pumpkin, spinach and a red pepper sauce served with a side of starchy fufu. Chef Bintou N’Daw Young has cooked and traveled around the world, from her homelands of Senegal and France to various countries in Africa, Europe and the U.S.,

landing in New York before moving to Charleston. Vegetarian options offered.

Moderate. Bintuatelier.com. Dinner, Thurs.-Mon. Kultura (2023), Charleston.

An homage to a Filipino grandmother’s home cooking, Kultura ties the fresh tastes of the Lowcountry to the Philippines. A must-try dish is the restaurant’s pancit made with rice noodles, local blue crab and vegetables in a calamansi sauce. Also of note is the Halo Halo cocktail — an enticing blend of purple yam (ube), pineapple, sake and oat milk. Moderate.

Kulturacharleston.com. Lunch, Sat.-Sun.; Dinner, Thurs.-Mon. Ma’am Saab (2023), Charleston.

If you’re looking for “flavorland,” you should check out this elegant but non-white-tablecloth Pakistani restau-

Rūta Smith

The long-awaited brick-and-mortar Ma'am Saab finally opened its doors on the Charleston peninsula in May rant that offers modern takes on timetested dishes. At this refined sibling of Malika Canteen in Mount Pleasant and James Island, you’ll enjoy the rich, savory and spicy flavors of Chicken Tikka or Lamb Biryani. And the butter chicken and fresh naan are to die for.

Moderate. Maamsaabchs.com. Lunch and dinner, Tues.-Sat.

22 || DISH || Fall 2023

Philosophia (2022), Mount Pleasant.

This East Cooper restaurant blends the joy of dining with friendship and a menu that rocks Greek cuisine.

“Amazingly good Greek food,” said one satisfied gourmand. Favorites include starters of pesto hummus and Greek pimento cheese and main dishes of pastitsio, whole branzino and stuffed leg of lamb. Wow. Moderate to expensive. Philosophiamtpleasant.com.

Dinner, Wed.-Sun.

Rūta Smith file photo

Bintü Atelier brings West African flavors to the Holy City

Rancho Lewis (2022), upper Charleston. Barbecue chef extraordinaire John Lewis adds Tex-Mex to his culinary mix with Rancho Lewis, where he uses his favorite Hatch chiles in many dishes. The tortillas are made fresh onsite, and, if you can stray from the tempting tacos, the burger — made with brisket — is

terrific. Another diner raved: “Don’t leave without eating the steak fajitas.

Period.” Moderate. Rancholewischs. com. Lunch and dinner, Tues.-Sun. Sullivan’s Fish Camp (2022), Sullivan’s Island. The third concept from the owner of Basic Kitchen and Post House (both in our Top 50), this eatery’s food offers tastes that are described as playful and perfect for the beach. There is a focus on Southern ingredients that create new takes on Fish Camp classics like shrimp linguine by using Tarvin Seafood shrimp, jalapeño and gouda hushpuppies and, of course, yummy oysters. Moderate. Sullivansfishcamp. com. Lunch and dinner, daily.

The James American Grill (2023), James Island. A new location for fine dining on James Island, The James American Grill blends the feel of a neighborhood joint with comfortable elegance. It offers lots of nice touches — sumptuous Parker House rolls, tasty lump crab cakes with flair and fresh fish that soothes and nourishes. Also enjoy the cozy bar and its satisfying drinks. Expensive.

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Southbound's ever-changing menu features dishes like smoked beef tartare Ashley Rose Stanol file photo

Making memories Charleston’s expansive food scene is constantly evolving to welcome new restaurants and different types of cuisine. Keeping up with everything happening in the world of Lowcountry food is a full-time job, which is why we do the work for you. Our Top 50 restaurants in this issue of Dish will help you navigate where to go when you’re craving traditional Southern cuisine, looking for a place to celebrate a special occasion or seeking something exciting and new.

boy are they good. Chow down on the gourmet Miami Dog made with avocado and shoestring potatoes or split a whole Peruvian chicken with some friends while sipping one (or two) of the bar’s many delicious cocktails. Bar George also has house-made doughnuts available to feed your sweet tooth. Stop by for a drink or hotdog before catching a movie at the Terrace Theater, or just hang out with friends and enjoy the front patio.

Basic Kitchen CAFE

Moderate

Organized in alphabetical order.

167 Raw Oyster Bar SEAFOOD

Expensive Downtown. 193 King St. (843) 579-4997 167raw.com Serving Lunch, Dinner (Mon.-Sat.)

Surrounded by high-end boutiques, swanky inns, antique stores and art galleries, 167 Raw’s King Street home sits along a quiet stretch of storefronts. But fear not — it still boasts the same lineup of New England bivalves and lobster rolls that were much-lauded at its existing original (and teeny) spot at 289 East Bay St., which now operates as 167 Sushi Bar. The first floor of 167 Raw’s ever-socharming 19th century building is long and narrow, with original brick walls and a walnut bar. Even with four times (at least) as much seating as its original space, 167 Raw gets packed. Arrive early to tuck into your 10-hour carnita taco and tuna burger.

Bar George Inexpensive James Island. 1956 Maybank Hwy. (843) 793-2231 bar-georgechs.com Serving Dinner (Tues.-Sun.)

Bar George is a perfect place to stray away from downtown while maintaining a downtown Charleston vibe. The food menu is loaded with small plates, but

basickitchen.com Serving Lunch, Dinner (Mon.-Sat.), Weekend Brunch

In a city filled with hearty Southern cuisine, sometimes it’s tricky to find a flavorful, light meal. Not the case at Basic Kitchen. According to co-owner Ben Towill, that has been exactly the goal since opening the restaurant with his wife, Kate, in 2017. “We want to provide massive flavor and a meal that’s hearty but still feels light,” he said. Robin Hollis, who took over as Basic Kitchen executive chef in July 2019, has honed in on this mission by creating more wholesome dishes that highlight vegetables from local purveyors. BK’s lunch menu is divided into small plates, bowls, salads, sandwiches and sweets. For dinner selections, it offers big plates like market fish with peach salsa, cilantro, avocado and lime and chicken or cauliflower schnitzel.

Berkeley’s AMERICAN

Moderate Downtown, 624½ Rutledge Ave. (843) 501-7779 eatatberkeleys.com Serving Lunch, Dinner (Wed.-Mon)

Soak in the North Central neighborhood from the front patio and escape King Street crowds at this spot that feels like going over to a friend’s home for dinner. continued on page 26

1313 Shrimp Boat Ln. (843) 884-4440 • vickerysSC.com

charlestoncitypaper.com || 25

CAFE

Downtown. 82 Wentworth St. (843) 789-4568

Top 50 Top 50 from page 25 Berkeley’s keeps its menu relatively simple but packs big flavor into each dish with plenty of options for meat-eaters and vegetarians alike. Opt for a traditional or vegetarian cheesesteak (made with mushrooms), or select another savory sandwich. If you’ve craving something heavier, look to chicken or eggplant parmesan, cavatappi or hanger steak. One satisfied diner said, “The spicy shrimp polenta appetizer has been on my mind for weeks since I first tried it. It’s filling, flavorful and definitely more than enough to share. Pair it with the smoked salmon dip if you want to start your meal with a decadent seafood spread.”

Bertha’s Kitchen SOUL FOOD

Inexpensive Downtown. 2332 Meeting Street Road.

(843) 554-6519 Serving Lunch, Dinner (Mon.-Fri.)

Head up Meeting Street until you see a two-story robin’s egg blue building with purple trim and a line stretching out the door. The Southern soul food platters here are so tasty, generous and inexpensive, that the line starts forming well before it’s open for lunch.

Locals and far-flung tourists alike shuffle through the quick cafeteriastyle service counter loaded with a smorgasbord of meat and threes, such as fried pork chops, fish specials, yams, stewed greens, homestyle mac-and-cheese, limas nestled with smoked turkey necks, dark roux okra soup, moist cornbread and fried chicken better than anyone’s grandma ever made. Bertha’s building was announced for sale last year but has since been taken off the market.

Bistronomy by Nico FRENCH

Expensive Downtown. 64 Spring St. (843) 410-6221 bistronomybynico.com

26 || DISH || Fall 2023

Serving Dinner (daily), Weekend Brunch

One month after getting the keys to 64 Spring St., Bistronomy by Nico coowners Nico Romo and Dominique Chantepie opened the French bistro after revamping the space previously occupied by Josephine Wine Bar. The cuisine mirrors the vibrant atmosphere and draws on celebrated dishes from Romo’s 10 years at Fish, which closed in 2017

after 17 years on King Street. Romo calls Bistronomy’s menu approachable French cuisine with an Asian fusion twist. The menu changes seasonally, but at the time of publishing, it included items like frog legs, 24-hour short ribs, bouillabaisse and escargot rice dumplings. If you want to sample Romo’s fare in Mount Pleasant, his original bistro, NICO, sits right off of Shem Creek.

Bowens Island Restaurant SEAFOOD

Moderate James Island. 1870 Bowens Island Road.

(843) 795-2757 bowensisland.com Serving Dinner (Tues.-Sat.)

Don’t expect white tablecloth and maitre d’service at Bowens Island. It’s famously no frills, but it’s worth it. The nightly crowds are a testament to the family fish camp. Since its founding in 1946, it has grown from a grimy, albeit quaint, cinder block outpost to a pluffmud pantheon that offers up damn good fried seafood, hushpuppies and cold local beer in its upstairs dining room.

Follow your nose downstairs and elbowout yourself a space at the all-you-caneat oyster tables and slurp down tasty local oysters by the shovelful that were likely pulled off the marsh that day.

Oyster season or not, we have a hard time passing up the Frogmore Stew, a pot full of potatoes, sausage, corn on the cob and shrimp steamed together as God intended it.

Charleston Grill MODERN AMERICAN

Very Expensive Downtown. 224 King St. (843) 577-4522

Provided

Berkeley's weekly specials often incorporate seasonal ingredients — like heirloom tomatoes with prosciutto, pickled red onion, arugula and whipped ricotta which recently graced its menu

charlestongrill.com

Chasing Sage

Serving Dinner (Wed.-Thurs.)

MODERN AMERICAN

Amid ever-shifting culinary fashions, Charleston Grill has remained one of the city’s crown jewels by delivering a consistently flawless dining experience.

Dishes can be decadently lush, like the beef tenderloin with a red wine gastrique or seared foie gras spiked with a strawberry jam and balsamic vinegar.

The dishes are balanced, ingredientcentric creations with contemporary spins on Southern cuisine that are bold and satisfying. The best way to experience the full sweep of the cuisine is to pick out items from each section of Weaver’s menu and sit back to enjoy the house jazz band tucked in the corner.

Expensive Downtown. 267 Rutledge Avenue. (854) 444-3402 chasingsagerestaurant.com Serving Dinner (Mon.-Sat.)

Focused on farm-to-table cuisine, Chasing Sage is always a delight because you never quite know what dishes will appear on the menu. The plates rotate regularly, depending on what’s in season and what local purveyors provide. You might indulge in small plates like corn dumplings with bacon and chili oil or blue crab lettuce wraps topped with avocado and watermelon. Plates are organized by price and designed to be shared. Dishes are often veggie-forward,

but there are plenty of options for meat eaters. If you’re dining with a large group, opt for the chef’s choice and let the kitchen decide.

Chez Nous FRENCH

Expensive Downtown. 6 Payne Court. (843) 579-3060 cheznouschs.com Serving Lunch, Dinner (Tues.-Sun.) Sun. Brunch

Most mornings before lunch, the Chez Nous Instagram feed (@cheznouscharleston) features a picture of the day’s menu, handwritten in black ink on a continued on page 28

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EVERY TUESDAY @4PM FIRST COME, FIRST SERVE

Top 50 Top 50 from page 26

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small white card in executive chef Jill Mathias’ eccentric and highly stylized script. Next comes a separate picture of each and every dish being served that day, taken from above in flawless light.

Admittedly, it’s only seven pictures total, since Chez Nous serves just two starters, two entrees and two desserts, and the selection changes daily. The setting is charmingly old and the cuisine European-inspired, but it’s hardly a throwback to an older mode of dining.

Chez Nous stands alone just as it is, an eccentric outlier. With such a dynamic menu, any review of Chez Nous is by necessity a fleeting snapshot.

Chubby Fish SEAFOOD

Expensive Downtown. 252 Coming St. (843) 222-3949 chubbyfishcharleston.com

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Serving Dinner (Tues.-Sat.)

Executive chef James London serves a hyper-local, daily changing menu at this vibrant Coming Street restaurant, which opened in June 2018. And while the fish selection may vary, London is known for a few signature preparations. Expect raw oysters, crudos and likely one small plate that incorporates caviar. We recommend ordering several dishes and sharing with the group before finishing off with sweets from Life Raft Treats’ Cynthia Wong, who supplies Chubby Fish with dessert. Chubby Fish doesn’t take reservations, but it’s well worth the wait for one of 30 or so seats inside a restaurant that prides itself on turning under-utilized types of fish into dishes you’ll crave for weeks.

Coda del Pesce ITALIAN/SEAFOOD

Expensive Isle of Palms. 1130 Ocean Blvd. (843) 242-8570 codadelpesce.com Serving Dinner (Tues.-Sat.)

With Coda del Pesce, chef/owner Ken Vedrinski of former downtown mainstay Trattoria Lucca headed out to Isle of Palms to create a beachside Italian seafood restaurant. The beautiful second-story dining room has brick walls, reclaimed wood floors and, in a rarity for the Lowcountry, floor-toceiling windows offering a lovely view of the Atlantic. It’s an ideal setting for Vedrinski’s signature high-end Italian

fare, which offers plenty of bright flavors and unexpected twists. Masterful pasta anchors the primi selection, which includes ricotta gnudi tossed with mushrooms, guanciale (pork jowls) and vacche rosse parmesan cheese.

The secondi highlights fresh fish like swordfish and swordfish “marsala.” Pair any of these with an Italian wine from the impressive list, and you’ll have one splendid fish tale to share with friends.

Dave’s Carry-Out SOUL FOOD/SEAFOOD

Inexpensive Downtown. 42-C Morris St. (843) 577-7943 facebook.com/Daves-Carry-Out-111720082197029/ Serving Lunch, Dinner (Tues.-Sat.)

This soul food joint offers a true taste of Charleston. For under $10, you can get a takeout box filled to the brim with the best of Lowcountry cooking like pork chops, crispy chicken wings and finger-lickin’ ribs. The selection of sides is small but tasty — try the lima beans, thick steak fries or rice. The lunch specials change daily, but your best bet is to go with a seafood platter, which ranges from $10 for a generous portion of shrimp to $20 for shrimp, fish, scallops and deviled crab. If you want a true local experience, opt for the lima beans and rice. It’s meaty and filling. A few tables allow customers to dine in, but most folks get their Dave’s to-go, whether for lunch or a greasy late-night snack.

Delaney Oyster House SEAFOOD

Expensive Downtown. 115 Calhoun St. (843) 594-0099. delaneyoysterhouse.com Serving Dinner (daily)

The Neighborhood Dining Group — owners of Husk — have converted an old single house on Calhoun Street into a stunner of a seafood restaurant. The raw bar offerings range from local oysters and clams to hackleback caviar, and executive chef Brett Riley’s inventive small plates are stylish and intensely flavored. In the past, the menu has featured rich poached lobster tossed with mayo and lemon and a golden tilefish served with roasted carrots, apple and collard green salad.

Each dish is finished with a precise visual style that befits the picture-perfect setting. Grab a seat out on the second floor piazza, order a glass of chilled red wine and dig in.

Our go-to restaurant list

Edison James Island INTERNATIONAL

Moderate James Island. 1014 Fort Johnson Road (843) 872-5500 edisonjamesisland.com Serving Dinner (Wed.-Sun.)

This is a place where you can taste the world with Lowcountry ingredients.

Co-owner and chef Joel Lucas puts his culinary skills to work in the kitchen with creative takes on international cuisine by using a rotating seasonal menu that highlights local produce and seafood.

Start dinner off with the Vietnamese pho taco made with hoisin pork, glass noodles, cilantro, sprouts, ginger aioli and sriracha or the chef’s selection of charcuterie and cheeses, full-bodied sandwiches, soups and salads. Examples: the poached salmon burger, Thai chicken noodle soup and bistro steak salad. There also are hearty entrees like green curry meatballs, blackstrap braised beef short ribs with smoked gouda grits and panseared local swordfish with chimichurri, continued on page 30

Rūta Smith file photo

The po’boy at downtown’s 167 Raw levels up a classic sandwich with New Bedford diver scallops and local arugula

charlestoncitypaper.com || 29

BREAKFAST | LUNCH | CATERING

Mon - Sat 7:30 a.m. - 5 p.m. | 41-A George St, Downtown | LegendDeli.com

KICKAS SAMMIE S S!

Top 50 working in fine dining kitchens first in New Orleans and then in Charleston.

That means hearty, savory gumbo brimming with okra and sausage and Cajun fish cakes made with shrimp and catfish, served with Charleston red rice, collard greens and a red remoulade. Pristine local seafood makes for fresh, satisfying plates, like pan-roasted trout served over tender braised beans and thick mashed potatoes. While some have become staples on the menu like the shrimp po’boy, others rotate daily, with a new menu available every day at 11 a.m. on the website.

Top 50 from page 29 green peppercorns, asparagus and purple sweet potatoes.

Estadio TAPAS

Moderate Downtown. 122 Spring St. estadio-chs.com Serving Dinner (Tues.-Sat.)

Estadio, which opened on Spring Street in October 2019, is technically the second outpost of a successful Washington, D.C., Spanish-style bar and tapas restaurant.

The decor and the deep sherry and gin selection echo the D.C. original, but executive chef Alex Lira’s impressive menu is unique to Charleston. The pintxos and tapas — grilled shrimp on skewers, deviled eggs and caviar and matriano hash browns with black and white anchovies — offer beguiling little bites. Fresh local crudo and flat iron steak cooked with a poblano romesco and served with caramelized leek mashed potatoes are offered on the heavier side. With a slate of sherry cocktails, “gin tonics” made with rare Spanish brands and porróns of wine, Estadio brings a brilliant taste of Spain to the heart of downtown Charleston.

Halls Chophouse STEAKHOUSE

Expensive Downtown. 434 King St. (843) 727-0090 hallschophouse.com Serving Dinner (Mon.-Thurs.), Weekend Brunch

Sure, there are newer and “hotter” restaurants, but Halls Chophouse is a special occasion classic for a reason. You can’t get better service with your steak, the wine list includes some unexpected offerings and the cocktails are generous. And the steak, of course, is fabulous. Pro tip: order the giant tomahawk cut and split it. One diner told us to order any of the dried aged steaks, especially if you need a reason to cry tears of joy. “While I have only eaten there a few times for dinner,” he said, “I dream of the next opportunity to go back.”

Felix Cocktails et Cuisine FRENCH BISTRO

Moderate Downtown. 550 King St. (843) 203-6297 felixchs.com Serving Lunch, Dinner (Mon.-Sun.),

Hannibal’s Kitchen

Weekend Brunch

SOUL FOOD

30 || DISH || Fall 2023

If you’re looking for a bright, comfortable French bistro in which to relax with delicious food with small plates and a soothing glass of wine or a cocktail, this is the place.

We like a lot of what’s on the menu of this French-style bistro and bar, but will direct you to three classics that won’t disappoint – French onion soup, lobster deviled eggs and steak frites. “Everything is exceptional,” said one patron who returns time and again. “If you are hungry and want a burger, get the Raclette Burger. Do not add any condiments; eat it as served. Be prepared to have a food orgasm.”

FIG MODERN AMERICAN

Very Expensive Downtown. 232 Meeting St. (843) 805-5900 eatatfig.com Serving Dinner (Tues.-Sat.)

In 2003, chef Mike Lata set out to prove

Inexpensive Downtown. 16 Blake St. (843) 722-2256 Rūta Smith file photo

Hannibal’s Kitchen has been serving soul food on Charleston’s East Side for more than 40 years that “food is good.” After blazing a trail for the robust local farm-to-table restaurant scene, FIG still stands out, winning awards and creating devotees year after year. Although snagging a reservation can be a challenge, the seasonally inspired cuisine and impeccable service are worth the effort. Change is a constant, but stalwart menu standbys, like the pillowy ricotta gnocchi alla bolognese, never fail to satisfy. Be sure to check out the wine offerings, as FIG — along with two nods for Best Chef Southeast — is also a national James Beard awardwinner for Outstanding Wine Program.

The Glass Onion NEW SOUTHERN

Moderate West Ashley. 1219 Savannah Hwy. (843) 225-1717 ilovetheglassonion.com Serving Lunch, Dinner (Mon.-Sat.), Sat. Brunch

Since 2008, the Glass Onion has exemplified the “neighborhood favorite” category — a restaurant less formal and ambitious than a fine dining spot but still delivering seriously delicious meals. The offering blends the home cooking of chef/ owner Chris Stewart’s native Alabama with dishes and styles he absorbed while

hannibalkitchen.com Serving Lunch, Dinner (Daily)

Hannibal’s Kitchen is a no-frills soul joint on the East Side of downtown Charleston that, according to owner L.J. Huger, has “been feeding the soul of the city” for more than 40 years. After serving the community for so many years, Hannibal’s has become an institution in the Charleston food scene. It was even listed on The New York Times 2021 Top 50 restaurants in the country. Try the signature dish, “crab and shrimp rice.” Salmon, shrimp and shark steak are three other hot items at lunch time. And don’t skip out on the traditional Southern sides including lima beans, okra soup, fried chicken, pork chops and collard greens. continued on page 32

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Top 50 Top 50 from page 31

Husk Restaurant NEW SOUTHERN

Expensive

Indaco

Jack of Cups Saloon

ITALIAN

INTERNATIONAL

Moderate

Inexpensive

Downtown. 526 King St. (843) 727-1228

Folly Beach. 34 Center St. (843) 633-0042

indacorestaurant.com

jackofcupssaloon.net

Serving dinner (daily), Weekend Brunch

Downtown. 76 Queen St. (843) 577-2500 huskrestaurant.com Serving Dinner (daily), Weekend Brunch

Husk has outposts in Nashville, Greenville and Savannah, but this location — housed in a white mansion on Queen Street — is the original. Here, the kitchen creates must-try marvels with a frequently changing menu like Southern fried chicken skins, “Kentuckyaki” pigs ear lettuce wraps or the hulking Carolina heritage pork chop, while dessert offerings include such innovations as the savory-sweet cornbread pudding. There’s a welcoming, rustic atmosphere indoors, but if weather permits, sit out on the upstairs porch and enjoy what is, without hesitation, Southern food at its best.

If you’re looking for classic Italian pizza and pasta in a chic but laid-back setting, Indaco is the place to go. Choose from classic Italian antipasti like polpette (meatballs) and prosciutto di parma; wood-fired pizzas, including a spicy soppressata; and handmade pastas, like the staple tagliatelle with pork teas and black pepper, topped with a Storey Farms egg, chives, parmesan. For the full Indaco experience, order the “for the table” chef’s choice, which includes a three-course meal for $50 per person.

One frequent Indaco diner said, “This is comfort food your Italian grandma would make if she kept up with food trends. You can’t go wrong with the pizza, which changes seasonally, or the evergreen tagliatelle.”

Serving Lunch, Dinner (Wed.-Mon.)

Jack of Cups Saloon describes its cuisine as “globally inspired comfort food made with love,” and anyone who has dined here understands why. Jack of Cups co-owner and chef Lesley Carroll puts creativity and care into every dish she develops. And she’s always quick to offer a smile or share a laugh with diners.

Menu offerings rotate with the seasons and incorporate unique, unexpected flavor combinations like the ever-popular red curry mac and cheese. Other unusual and delicious offerings that have popped up on the menu include Tom Kha Gai gnocchi, a traditional Vietnamese coconut broth-turned-sauce blended with a classic Italian dumpling, and Cap’N Crunch deviled eggs. Check the menu ahead of time to discover the latest Jack of Cups creations. One diner is particularly fond of the ever-changing menu. “The seasonal menu brings new,

exciting changes every quarter,” she said.

“This summer’s Cashew Korma was hands down the best curry I’ve ever put in my mouth. Sweet and savory, I couldn’t get enough. I felt like I died and went to curry heaven.”

Jackrabbit Filly CHINESE

Moderate North Charleston. 4628 Spruill Ave. (843) 460-0037 jackrabbitfilly.com Serving Dinner (Wed.-Sat.), Sun. Brunch

The menu at Jackrabbit Filly — Shuai and Corrie Wang’s brick-and-mortar jump from their popular Short Grain food truck — takes quintessential Asian fare, and adds some vamp. The pork and cabbage dumplings are where Yangtze meets Ganges, with a rich mix of pork, cabbage, ginger and coriander encased inside the perfectly cooked pasta wrapper. Topped with a pungent chinkiang vinegar and Lao Gan Ma chili crisp sauce, the first bite is like suddenly finding something in life you hadn’t even realized was missing. Short Grain’s

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Our go-to restaurant list

beloved karaage endures — the meat is juicy, the coating crunchy and the drizzle of lemon mayo and ponzu, along with some togarashi-induced heat, should be presented with the following disclaimer: “The karaage is a small structure made of chicken. It is delicious, and you are not ready for it.”

Kwei Fei CHINESE

Moderate James Island. 1977 Maybank Hwy. kweifei.com Serving Dinner (Tues.-Sat.)

Leon’s Fine Poultry & Oysters SEAFOOD

Moderate

A Family Owned Business Since 1968

Largest inventory in Charleston Retail • Wholesale • Fintech Service

CUSTOMER PARKING BEHIND THE BUILDING • ACCESS FROM MEETING & REID ST

Reid

Entrance to & from Reid St.

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Downtown. 698 King St. (843) 531-6500 leonsoystershop.com

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continued on page 34

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The chargrilled oysters at Leon’s embody the restaurant’s approach to food:

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Serving Lunch, Dinner (daily)

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Set next door to Charleston Pour House in the space previously occupied by The Lot, Kwei Fei’s interior looks the sameish, except now the chairs are yellow and you’ll find some Asian knick-knacks scattered about. But these updates are the only understated thing about Kwei Fei. Pretty much nothing else — from the food and the music to the chef himself — can be described as subtle. Kwei Fei’s menu is an equally wild ride, offering an array of appetizers, entrees and veggiebased sides sorted into blocks labeled

“Loud,” “Hot” and “Vibes.” The crescent dumplings are an outstanding way to give your tastebuds a crash course in the events to come. Made with ground pork and redolent Sichuan pepper, the five plump dumplings are served in a soybased, vinegary sauce and topped with fresh cilantro and chives. Hot, sour, salty, sweet: everyone’s here. On the “vibes” side of things, vegetarians are well-taken care of with the dry-fried green beans. Here, some rice makes sense and adds bulk to the dry, fried shiitakes and peppers, which are coated in sichuan peppercorn and fermented bean paste, served with mushrooms and of course, peppers.

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charlestoncitypaper.com || 33

11Locations

Top 50 Top 50 from page 33 unfussy and delicious. The “Fry-Up” platter is a choice of oysters, shrimp, catfish or clams battered and delicately fried and served with a tartar sauce so good we sometimes just dip a fork in it in between bites. If we know anything about restaurateurs Brooks Reitz and Tim Mink, it’s that they know how to design a restaurant that both looks and feels good.

This is the kind of place that gets in your regular rotation because it’s comfortable, delicious and reliable.

Lewis Barbecue BARBECUE

Expensive Downtown. 464 N. Nassau St. (843) 805-9500 lewisbarbecue.com Serving Lunch, Dinner (daily)

Lewis Barbecue houses four custom-built smokers and a sausage smoker that can cook 1,600 links at a time, all hand-built

by Lewis and his father. Once inside, you’ll queue up to have meat hand-sliced by one of two meat-cutters stationed behind a long counter directing you to opposite ends. Lewis’ “life changing’’ beef brisket is definitely the star. The infinitely tender meat has a salty, peppery crust and shines with melted fat. But there’s also juicy smoked turkey, pulled pork, pork ribs and Texas sausage called “hot guts” available and priced by the pound (or hot guts by the link). After your tray is filled with your order of meats, choose your sides from mustardy potato salad, lemon slaw, cowboy beans and rich green chile corn pudding.

Malagon

Renzo’s wood-fired oven churns out creative Neapolitan-style pizzas dominated by the sprinkling of smoked paprika on top. Despite being “small plates” and probably owing in part to all the potatoes, your meal can be surprisingly filling and notably affordable.

Malagon is not only doing something different, it’s doing it extremely well.

Moderate

Malika Pakistani Chai Canteen

Downtown. 33 Spring St. (843) 926-0475

PAKISTANI

TAPAS

34 || DISH || Fall 2023

Rūta Smith file photo

brought Pakistani street food to the fold, introducing samosa chaats, aloo tikki, dhamaka burger and chicken tikka rolls.

Wash down the spices with local beers, selected wines and house-made cocktails at one of the few Pakistani restaurants in the country to serve alcohol. But if you’re looking for something traditional, Malika also offers Pakistani staples like mango lassi, a creamy mango shake, or Pakola, a rosewater cream soda.

malagonchs.com

Moderate

Serving Lunch, Dinner (Tues.-Sun.)

Mount Pleasant. 1333 Theater Dr.ive

Maya del Sol Kitchen

(843) 897-5727

MEXICAN

Even experienced tapas lovers may find themselves a bit wide-eyed at Malagon — the comprehensive menu isn’t fooling around. Rather, it gets right down to some sweet tapas tenderness, starting with familiar snacks like marcona almonds and dates wrapped in ham. The mojama (cured tuna belly) is a classic treat. Firm and salty, it’s often referred to as the jamón of the sea. Accompanied by roughly a dozen baby potatoes, tender chunks of octopus have a silky texture similar to that of a rare scallop. The mild flavors of the two soft ingredients are

like pozole, tamales or tacos al pastor.

But if you’re looking for something a little heartier, try items on the rotating menu, such as the beef heart guisado (stewed beef heart) or puerco asado (roasted pork). Pro-tip: Check Instagram or Facebook for the lunch and brunch menus. For dinner, Sanchez is always cooking something special for his chef’s tasting menu, whether he creates dishes inspired by family recipes or hosts a themed night like an Italian dinner or an international ceviche special. Give the restaurant a ring for a seat at the table.

malikacanteen.com

Moderate

Serving Lunch, Dinner (Tues.-Sun.)

North Charleston. 1813 Suite B Reynolds Ave.

Oak Steakhouse

(843) 225-2390

STEAKHOUSE

Owners Maryam Ghaznavi and Raheel Gauba have taken Charleston by storm with their authentic Pakistani comfort food. First starting out as a pop-up in 2019 called Ma’am Saab (which opened in May in the old Jestine’s Kitchen on Meeting Street), the couple introduced a new cuisine to the market, bringing to the table dishes like chicken biryani and aloo gobi. When the couple opened up Malika, they expanded their flavors and

raulsmayadelsol.com

Expensive

Serving Lunch (Wed.-Fri., Sun.), Dinner (Thurs.-

Downtown. 17 Broad St. (843) 722-4220

Sat., reservation only)

oaksteakhouserestaurant.com

Maya del Sol Kitchen is a passion project for chef and owner Raul Sanchez, and it clearly shows. When the kitchen first opened in 2021, Sanchez started by offering his five-course chef’s table.

He now serves lunch and brunch, too, where you can find Mexican standards

Serving Dinner (daily)

Located in a restored 150-year-old bank building, Oak is a long-running favorite for a big Charleston night out. Hefty prime ribeyes and strips are the main attractions, with luxurious family-style accompaniments like creamy whipped

Our go-to restaurant list

potatoes and lobster mac and cheese.

Within the traditional steakhouse format, there is always a twist or two, like a daily local seafood special or beef belly with sorghum barbecue sauce. The deep wine list focuses on California reds, and the service is reliably top-notch, regardless of whether you eat downstairs in the bar area, with its exposed brick walls and clubby red leather booths, or at the white cloth-draped tables in the second story dining room, its high windows looking out over Broad Street.

The Obstinate Daughter SEAFOOD/SOUTHERN

a pleasant buzz. Along with six daily varieties of raw oysters on the half shell, the house-smoked oysters are not to be missed. Presented in an oil and vinegar-filled preserve jar and spiked with slices of crisp pickled celery, the six oysters are so gently smoked that they are still raw. As a result, each is tender and juicy, the delicate hint of ocean flavor touched with woodsy smoke. Served with fancied-up saltines (brushed with butter and Old Bay), rich, cold creme fraiche and vibrant hot sauce, the combination is outstanding: cool, crisp and smoky all at once.

Moderate

Peninsula Grill

Sullivan’s Island. 2063 Middle St. (843) 416-5020

NEW SOUTHERN

theobstinatedaughter.com

Very Expensive

Serving Lunch (Mon.-Fri.), Dinner (daily),

Downtown. 112 N. Market St. (843) 723-0700

Weekend Brunch

peninsulagrill.com

At The Obstinate Daughter, executive chef Jacques Larson’s big, open kitchen has a plancha and a wood-fired oven, and he uses it to create a beguiling array of pizzas, pastas and small plates. The pizzas bear tempting toppings, like guanciale, white anchovy or pancetta.

The dishes on the rotating “plates” menu range in size from griddled octopus with crispy potatoes and black olive tapenade to swordfish siciliana with green olives, capers, tomatoes, raisins and currant.

Fluffy ricotta gnocchi are topped with an intensely flavorful short rib ragu with tender strands of beef in a pool of reddish orange tomato-tinged jus. OD boasts a cheery, casual environment for enjoying Larson’s impressive parade of delicate but flavorful dishes. And that makes it one of the best upscale dining destinations not just out on the beaches, but anywhere in town.

The Ordinary SEAFOOD

Serving Dinner (daily)

There are milestones in life that require a fancy steak. Or at least the kind of place where one can get a fancy steak. If you’re in the midst of such an occasion, Peninsula Grill has got you covered. Even after more than two decades, Peninsula Grill continues to impress with its luxurious fare. Executive chef Kalen Fortuna has taken the helm, bringing with him over a decade of fine dining experience with plans to change the restaurant’s course. “We’re trying to take it in a much more refined aspect,” Fortuna said about the restaurant’s new direction. “A lot less meat and the stuff that’s been there for a long time. It’s really just trying to put nice, beautifully composed plates on the dish and working a lot with local farmers and seafood.”

Post House Restaurant MODERN AMERICAN

Expensive Mount Pleasant. 101 Pitt St. (843) 203-7678

Expensive

theposthouseinn.com

Downtown. 544 King St. (843) 414-7060

Serving Dinner (daily), Weekend Brunch

eattheordinary.com Serving Dinner (Tues.-Sun.)

Post House Restaurant opened in Mount Pleasant in August 2020 after undergoing significant renovations led

by Kate and Ben Towill of design and hospitality firm Basic Projects. Post House is a reincarnation of The Old Village Post House, which closed in February 2019 after 16 years at 101 Pitt St. The Towills completely redesigned the circa-1896 space, moving the main dining room to the back of the restau continued on page 36

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In December 2012, a historic King Street bank building found new life as an upscale oyster hall. The Ordinary — second child of Adam Nemirow and chef Mike Lata — opened with soaring 22-foot ceilings, the promise of locally sourced seafood and lots of buzz.

The Ordinary was the first of its kind.

While regularly packed and filled with an upbeat ambiance, The Ordinary’s high ceilings diffuse the jovial noise to

BREAKFAST SERVED ALL DAY EVERY DAY

Top 50 Top 50 from page 35 rant and the bar to face Pitt Street.

The space is adorned with antiques, vintage rugs, local art, archival wallpaper and handcrafted fixtures. You’ll find seasonal snacks, raw bar options, fresh pastas, local seafood and an assortment of vegetarian dishes at Post House. Local seafood massaman curry, Carolina heritage farm pork with creamy kimchi collard greens and a “backbar” cheeseburger are some of the main dishes that pair with starters like lamb wraps or Anson Mills cornbread.

Post House also features an expansive wine list with bottles from around the world, and those looking for a staycation can grab a room in the quaint inn connected to the restaurant.

R Kitchen EXPENSIVE

Downtown. 212 Rutledge Ave. West Ashley. 1337 Ashley River Road.

(843)789-0725 rutledgekitchen.com Serving Dinner (Tues.-Sun.)

R Kitchen brings diners an exciting new experience every night. At both locations, enjoy intimate dining settings while getting up-close and personal with a rotating line up of chefs creating that night’s five-course meal. R Kitchen is quick to remind guests that it’s a kitchen, not a restaurant. The menu is always a surprise — to both diners and chefs, who create the dishes each morning based on what ingredients the kitchen received that day. On a recent trip to the West Ashley location, a loaded potato soup, short rib dish and French toast with bacon made an appearance on the menu. Be sure to make a reservation in advance as these kitchens fill quickly.

Renzo PIZZA

The scallop carpaccio at Royal Tern pairs well with a bottle of wine from the restaurant’s extensive list

Moderate Downtown. 384 Huger St. (843) 952-7864 renzochs.com

36 || DISH || Fall 2023

Serving Dinner (Tues.-Sat.)

This former storefront-turned-hip neighborhood trattoria has a wood-fired oven and knows how to use it. Along with tempting starters like ricotta gnudi, charred broccolini or cavatelli, the menu features a trio of pastas, plus an array of creative Neapolitan-style pizzas. Feeling adventurous? The Cheli offers a tomato

Rūta Smith file photo

Our go-to restaurant list

base with lamb sausage, tangy pickled peppers, honey and za’atar. There’s a bagel brunch on Sundays, plus Renzo offers one of the area’s largest selections of natural wine.

SHIKI

Rodney Scott’s BBQ

One of downtown’s longest standing restaurants, SHIKI delivers fresh sushi rolls, nigiri and more in a cozy, recently renovated dining room. Owner Hae Gon “David” Park opened SHIKI at 334 East Bay St. in 2001 after moving to Charleston from New York City, where he worked at esteemed sushi restaurants like Yuraku, serving as head sushi chef for five years. The chef prides himself on sourcing the highest-quality fish, and his technique when making rolls, sashimi and nigiri is second to none. Patrons who want to go big can order the chef’s choice “omakase,” which translates to “I’ll leave it up to you” in Japanese. Chef Park will bring out a seemingly endless assortment of sashimi and nigiri bites, allowing guests to try a little bit of everything.

For less devout sushi enthusiasts, there are approachable options like tempura shrimp and avocado rolls, teriyaki beef, pork katsu and more. Shiki’s menu hasn’t changed much over the years, but why would it, as the restaurant helps fill a void in a city that has very few sushi-focused restaurants. Next time you’re in the mood for high quality sushi, give this familyowned and operated restaurant a try.

BARBECUE

Inexpensive Downtown. 1011 King St. (843) 990-9535 rodneyscottsbbq.com Serving Lunch, Dinner (daily)

Rodney Scott made waves in 2017 when, after two decades of cooking hogs at his family’s acclaimed operation in Hemingway, he brought his traditional burn-barrel style of barbecue down to Charleston. That splendid whole hog — basted in a pepper-laced sauce and pulled into long, succulent strands — remains the foundation of Scott’s offering on King Street, but he’s added a few new options for the city crowd, like meaty spareribs, crisp fried catfish and craft beer on tap. The flawless collards and the ribeye sandwiches, made from pit-smoked steak sliced thin and piled high on soft rolls, are musttry sleepers.

Royal Tern SEAFOOD

Expensive Johns Island. 3005 Maybank Hwy. (843) 718-3434 theroyaltern.com Serving Dinner (Mon.-Sat.)

Moderate Downtown. 334 E Bay St. (843) 720-8568 shikicharleston.com Serving Dinner (Mon.-Sat.)

Slightly North of Broad NEW SOUTHERN

Expensive Downtown. 192 East Bay St. (843) 723-3424 snobcharleston.com Serving Lunch (Mon.-Fri.), Dinner (daily), Weekend Brunch

Slightly North of Broad is the perfect place to take visiting friends for their first taste of Charleston cuisine, for it embodies so much of what makes the city’s dining scene special. Since taking the reins in 2016, executive chef Russ Moore has deftly balanced the restaurant’s traditional dishes with more forward-looking fare. Pristinely fresh seafood gets an elegant Southern touch on plates like New Bedford scallops with tomato ham hock broth or seared tuna topped with crisp fried oysters and tart yellow “mustard Q” sauce. SNOB was a local charcuterie pioneer, and a platter of hearty country pate, savory pork rillettes continued on page 38

charlestoncitypaper.com || 37

Set on Johns Island between Wild Olive and Minero, The Royal Tern is a welcome and well-positioned addition to that existing pair of successful Maybank Highway restaurants. With a focus on fish, the menu offers an aquarium-full of options. Along with a raw bar, there are a handful of sandwiches, a half-dozen seafood entrees and a hat trick of woodfired steaks. The building is also glorious.

Outside, it’s effortlessly stylish and would look just as appropriate nestled amongst a row of upscale beachfront estates. Inside, the chic, airy space boasts wood floors and high ceilings adorned with dramatic lights that resemble giant clusters of white grapes. The interior incorporates a number of current trends, including an open kitchen, marbletopped bar and miles of banquette seating. One of the best-looking joints in the area, The Royal Tern offers a hip place to scratch a variety of seafood itches on Johns Island.

SEAFOOD

Top 50 Top 50 from page 36

Stella’s GREEK

and lush chicken liver mousse is the perfect evening starter.

Sorelle ITALIAN

Expensive Downtown, 88 Broad St. (843) 974-1575 sorellecharleston.com Serving Dinner (daily.)

E M A G ON!

If you consider yourself a foodie, then chances are you’ve heard of Sorelle, one of the hottest and most talked about restaurants of the year so far. It’s a partnership between chefs Adam Sobel and Nick Dugan, bringing their take on classic southern Italian cuisine to the South. Everything on the menu is “a banger,” said one diner who managed to get in. A great combo, he salivated, would be to order the pane (bread) with fougasse, roasted garlic and olive oil, the cavatelli al tartufo (a mushroom pasta) with ricotta dumplings and truffle parmesan, and the pasta-baked branzino for a dinner to die for. Note: While it’s hard to get a dinner reservation here, it’s attached store (mercado) is open 8 a.m. to 4 p.m. daily for a quick bite.

Southbound MODERN AMERICAN

Expensive Downtown, 72 Cannon St. (843) 823-0212 southboundchs.com

38 || DISH || Fall 2023

Serving Dinner, (daily)

Live-fire cooking takes center stage at this new Cannon Street restaurant from the same folks behind Mount Pleasant’s Community Table and recently closed BarPizza. The elegant two-story dining room is located inside a historic home, which features a large wood-fire grill on the first floor. The menu, which changes daily and is posted to Facebook and Instagram each day by 3 p.m., makes great use of the grill with items such as dry-aged steak tartare with smoked egg, grilled toast and miso butter, coal-roasted Spanish octopus and grilled bone marrow with fried oysters.

Examples of heartier entrees include an Australian lamb chop, crispy Orvia duck and housemade cavatelli with braised rabbit sugo.

828 Savannah Hwy. | 843-377-1300 | trianglecharandbar.com

Moderate Downtown. 114 St. Philip St. (843) 400-0026 stellascharleston.com Serving Dinner (Mon.-Sat.)

It’s hard to say what’s most striking about Stella’s on St. Philip Street. Is it the hip, yet boisterous vibe? The large portions at an incredibly reasonable price point?

Or the vast, authentic and consistently delicious menu? Regardless of your ultimate conclusion, this is a trifecta worth a visit… or five. The grilled octopus and spanakopita are simple perfection, while the saganaki is a visual showstopper and an excuse to pig out on cheese. Stella’s own recipes — namely her calamari and braised lamb shank with No. 5 noodles and brown butter shank sauce, are at once comforting and elevated, testimony to the woman who inspired it all.

Sushi-Wa SUSHI

Expensive Downtown. 1503 King St. Extension. (843) 735-8633 sushiwacharleston.com Serving Dinner (Wed.-Sun.)

If you’re looking for an intimate date night with your significant other and a rare experience in the Southeast, head to Sushi-Wa. This restaurant brings the traditional Japanese omakase dining experience to the Lowcountry, with chefs and owners Kazu Murakami and Chris Schoedler taking your taste buds on a culinary journey. The chefs curate what you eat during a special multi-course meal with decisions based on something pre-determined by the chef. Book a night out on Resy, or if you’re lucky by following on Instagram, you might be able to snag a last-minute spot.

Vern’s NEW AMERICAN

Expensive Downtown. 41 Bogard St. vernschs.com Serving Dinner (Thurs.-Mon.), Weekend Brunch

Tucked on the corner of Bogard and Ashe streets, Vern’s is the definition of a friendly neighborhood dining spot. And boy, is it popular. This New American restaurant offers family-style meals, which allow everyone at a table to enjoy dishes like gnochetti sardi, a rich and creamy gnocchi dish with arugula and continued on page 40

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Top 50

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Top 50 from page 38

Same Day Crowns walnut pesto or the bavette steak with a sweet-tart balsamic glaze. If you get the chance to stop by for weekend brunch, don’t miss the sesame seed pancakes that embrace slices of local fruit and whipped ricotta for a delicate balance of sweet, creamy and nutty flavors. This, however, is a dish you might not want to share.

Richart can Dr. design, create and deliver C digital Dr. technology, Richart can design, deliver your crown appointment. your crownininone one appointment.

Same Daydigital Crowns Using CEREC technology, Dr. Richart can de

Wild Common create, and deliver your crown in one appointm

Using CEREC digital technology, Dr. Richart can design, create, and deliver your crown in one appointment.

MODERN AMERICAN

Expensive

Downtown. 103 Spring St.

wildCommonCharleston.com Serving Dinner (Wed.-Sun.)

Same Day Crowns

The experience at Wild Common is different every time. Executive Chef Orlando Pagán changes the menu daily for a one-of-a-kind dinner. Some items on the menu may start with crab rice with kimchi or a baked oyster for some funk. And if you’re feeling fancy AND funky, throw in a caviar course to liven up the night. Other past menu items include the delightfully pink Unicorn grits from Marsh Hen Mill with yeasted cultured butter or a robust duck breast with mushroom quiche. For dessert, expect something playful like the chef’s elevated take on a Fig Newton or the chocolate and blood orange terrine with a citrus marmalade, hazelnut and dark chocolate. No two experiences are ever the same. How cool.

Same Day Crowns

Using CEREC digital technology, Dr. Richart can design, create, and deliver your crown in one appointment.

Using CEREC digital technology, Dr. Richart can design, create, and deliver your crown in one appointment.

Crowns • Implants • Bridges • Dentures

Rūta Smith file photo

SNOB’s heritage farm pork chop is brined and cold smoked before it is grilled and covered in a savory glaze to create a beautiful crust everything on the plate.

Zero Restaurant + Bar MODERN AMERICAN

Wild Olive

Very expensive Downtown. 0 George St. (843) 817-7900

ITALIAN

Expensive

zerogeorge.com

Johns Island. 2867 Maybank Hwy. Serving Dinner (Tues.-Sun.) 1164 Northbridge Dr. Ste A (843) 737-4177 On the grounds of the elegant Zero Charleston, SC 29407 wildoliverestaurant.com George Street Boutique Hotel, Zero Serving Dinner (daily) Restaurant + Bar’s romantic dining 843·852·3401 Right off Maybank Highway sits Wild room is set in a former carriage house www.northbridgedentist.com chef Jacques Larson’s haven for built in 1804. Here, chef Vinson Veneers • Crowns • Implants •Olive, Bridges • Dentures

exquisite Italian fare. Since 2009, it has served as the go-to place for anniversary dinners and reunions with old friends. A comfortable bar greets those 1164 Northbridge Dr. Ste A looking for a casual bite, but don’t let Charleston, SC 29407 that relaxed atmosphere deceive you.

843·852·3401 Larson’s food is anything but. Incredible www.northbridgedentist.com (and decadent) risotto fritters stuffed with sausage, spinach, Parmesan and mozzarella are a great way to start. And Veneers • Crowns • Implants • Bridges • Dentures always ask about the specials, of which 1164 Northbridge Drive, Suite A, Charleston there are plenty. A past highlight was 843-852-3401 • NorthBridgeDentist.com a pappardelle with prosciutto, pork 1164 Northbridge Dr. SteLarson A is a firm believer and escarole. in local his conviction permeates Charleston, SC and 29407

Veneers • Crowns • Implants • Bridges • Dentures

Petrillo whips up innovative tasting menus with the option of four or seven courses, plus optional wine pairings.

Selections vary with the seasons but anticipate such treats as lightly grilled mackerel served with foie gras and local citrus or venison prepared with vadouvan curry and taleggio cheese.

Hit up happy hour for a craft cocktail; whether wielding a lead pipe or the candlestick, the bourbon-based Colonel Mustard is sure to pack a punch.

40 || DISH || Fall 2023

Veneers • Crowns • Implants • Bridges • Dentu

1164 Northbridge Dr. Ste A Charleston, SC 29407 843·852·3401 1164 Northbridge Dr www.northbridgedentist.com

843·852·3401

Charleston, SC 843·85 www.northbridgedentis

DISH ADVERTISING DIRECTORY AIRAVATA VAPORS 1200 Queensborough Blvd., Mount Pleasant 1580 Old Trolley Road, Summerville

GUILTY PLEASURES 2992 Ashley Phosphate Road, North Charleston • guiltypleasuressc.com

ALVIN ORD’S SANDWICH SHOP 2875 Ashley River Road Suite 5, West Ashley 1291 Folly Road #119, James Island alvinordschs.com

HALLS CHOPHOUSE 434 King St., Charleston 300 Nexton Square Dr., Summerville hallschophouse.com

ANNIE O’LOVE’S CAFE OF SWEET ABUNDANCE 1901 Ashley River Road, Charleston annieolovegranola.com ART’S BAR & GRILL 413 Coleman Blvd., Mount Pleasant artsbarandgrillsc.com BAR VAUTÉ 1 Broad St., Floor B • brasserielabanque.com BOBBY SHEALY Bobbyshealy.com BOHEMIAN BULL 1531 Folly Road, James Island (843) 225-1817 2668 Hwy. 17N, Mount Pleasant (843) 654-9141 bohemianbull.com BOWENS ISLAND RESTAURANT 1870 Bowens Island Road, Charleston bowensisland.com BRASSERIE LA BANQUE 1 Broad St. brasserielabanque.com BURRIS LIQUOR STORE 418 Meeting St., Charleston burrisliquors.com

HANK’S SEAFOOD RESTAURANT 10 Hayne St., Downtown hanksseafoodrestaurant.com HOLY CITY BAGELS 43 Cannon St., Charleston holeycitybagels.com LEGEND DELI 41-A George St., Charleston legenddeli.com LENOIR - RENAISSANCE CHARLESTON 68 Wentworth St., Charleston dineatlenoir.com LEWIS BARBECUE 464 N. Nassau St., Downtown lewisbarbecue.com LOCALS SUSHI 1150 Queensborough Blvd. Suite B, Mount Pleasant 1680 Olde Towne Road, West Ashley 798 Folly Road Suite A, James Island localssushi.com MAYA CHARLESTON 479-B King St., Charleston • mayachs.com MS. ROSE’S FINE FOOD & COCKTAILS 1090 Sam Rittenberg Blvd., Charleston msroses.com

CHARLESTON OYSTER HOUSE 35 S. Market St., Charleston oysterhouse.menu

NORTHBRIDGE DENTAL 1164 Northbridge Dr., Suite A, Charleston northbridgedentist.com

EARLY BIRD DINER 1644 Savannah Hwy., Charleston earlybirddiner.com

O’NEILL PLASTIC SURGERY 245 Seven Farms Dr., Suite 210, Charleston oneillplasticsurgery.com

EAST BAY DELI 1120 Oakland Market Road, Mount Pleasant 334 E. Bay St. Suite H, Downtown 405 Dorchester Road, North Charleston 858 Savannah Hwy., West Ashley 9135 University Blvd., North Charleston 2519 N. Main St. Suite B, Summerville eastbaydeli.com ELEVE AT GRAND BOHEMIAN HOTEL 55 Wentworth St., Charleston kesslercollection.com/bohemiancharleston GABRIELLE AT HOTEL BENNETT 404 King St., Downtown GabrielleDining.com

RANCHO LEWIS 1503 King St., Downtown rancholewischs.com SANTI’S 1302 Meeting Street Road 1471 Ben Sawyer Blvd., Mount Pleasant santisrestaurante.com SHANA SWAIN REAL ESTATE shanaswainrealtor.com SUNRISE BISTRO 1039 Johnnie Dodds Ave., Mount Pleasant 1797 Main Road, Johns Island 110 Miles Jamison, Summerville TRIANGLE CHAR & BAR 828 Savannah Hwy., West Ashley trianglecharandbar.com

GARY A. LING ATTORNEY 2971 W. Montague Ave., North Charleston charlestonattorneygaryaling.com

TRIDENT TECHNICAL COLLEGE tridenttech.edu

GENE’S HAUFBRAU 817 Savannah Hwy., Charleston facebook.com/genescharleston

VICKERY’S 1313 Shrimp Boat Lane, Mount Pleasant vickerysmtp.com

ATTORNEY

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ACCIDENT AND INJURY CASES We work on your repairs and injuries

Berlinsky and Ling Law Firm 2971 W. Montague | North Charleston CharlestonAttorneyGaryALing.com

FREE INITIAL CONSULTS 843-884-0000 EXT. 2

charlestoncitypaper.com || 41

CAROLINA COOKER carolinacooker.com

ESSAY

ON THE UNSEXY SIDE OF BEING A CHEF Not all amazing cooks will make great chefs. Some of the best chefs are not the best cooks in their kitchen. What you don’t see in those TV cooking challenges or hear when entering culinary school are all the things that will be required of you as a GREAT chef. Not only do you have to create a menu that guests (and your entire staff) will be excited about, but it needs to reflect a growing, creative version of yourself. The menu is mildly a fraction of what the job entails.

So let’s talk about the unsexy side of being a chef. What else is required? To start, you need to be business-savvy and dollar-attentive. There needs to be a focus on cost, inventory and negotiating with vendors without sacrificing your ethos or quality. It also means that you need to be an in-house repair person. Time and money are a luxury in this business.

You don’t always get to use a repairman.

Profitability can’t be your No. 1 driver in a business where the national average is 3 England 5% profit annually. Creativity alone will not keep you in business for the long haul.

Another key component is growing into the role of being a teacher. A chef is the in-house professor. A true chef should never want line cooks to just stay put. Inevitably, we have to figure out how to help them grow and to reach their goals. But with staffing shortages, it’s tough when you and your sous chefs are jumping on the line.

None of the above includes the daily basics of scheduling, emails, owners or investors, PR meetings, interviews and social media for the restaurant and ourselves, all while making sure everyone that works under the roof is happy. It’s equally as tough if you are a chef like me with severe ADHD who has to work hard at keeping all things lined up. It is a concerted effort.

You have to have systems and structure.

And this leads me to the No. 1 thing they don’t tell you about being a chef: You need to be self-aware. You need to be really honest with yourself. Yes, you must know your strengths but, more importantly, you need to ask, “What are my weaknesses?”

They don’t tell you to take your ego out of this — to put your whole restaurant first. Simultaneously, you need to build a

management team around you that feeds into the culture/vision while strengthening your weaknesses.

It’s not about you looking good. It’s about bringing out the best in your kitchen. And this means there is no successful version of me at Husk without my kitchen management team.

Like many chefs, our motley crew was affected by 2020. Some of us made decisions to get back to our creative roots. Some took a step back in their careers to spend time with family — the reasons go on and on. The one thing we all agreed on is that we wanted to be part of a team. We were all exhausted from being spread thin in understaffed restaurants.

The professionals in our kitchen make me better, and they make the restaurant look like a rock star.

We all have our quirks, but we are balanced. We push each other to keep growing creatively and, on a lot of days, just to keep going.

So here’s a shout-out to my team — and to teams across Charleston — that make me and my fellow chefs look better every day.

Ray England is executive chef of Husk Restaurant in Charleston.

Photos courtesy Husk; Christina Oxford

42 || DISH || Fall 2023

By Ray England

e Th Fore Of… v o L

BURGERS, BOURBON & BEER 1531 FOLLY RD. | JAMES ISLAND • 2668 HWY 17 N. | MOUNT PLEASANT | BOHEMIANBULL.COM

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