chicago nights stay
issue 02
issue 02 | chicago nights stay editor-in-chief charlie kane editor, market, fashions charlie kane designer eric gupana inquiries & advertising info@23blvd.com www.23BLVD.tumblr.com contributing photographers KP nosaj thang judson bernardo katrina tarzian eric gupana charlie kane muses melanie christmas elly jimenez 23BLVD is made in Chicago, printed at Dyna Ink Ltd. reproduction without permission is prohibited. for melinda alcantara. rest easy, mom.
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HUMBLE BEGINNINGS
credits | table of contents | editor’s note
8 A GOOD DAY
a day in the life of Shelby Steiner
12 BLOCK STYLE
trend report: denim | hawaiian inspired
16 MADE TO ORDER
featured interview with Stock Mfg. Co.
30 CHICAGO NIGHTS STAY
photoshoot: inspired by various locations in chicago
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EDITOR'S NOTE
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I used to associate one person as the embodiment of the Windy City. In retrospect, it was a relationship that coupled, then crippled Chicago into a dry and sheltered trance. On the way to its final days, I thought I was ready to leave, as if there was nothing left to trace in the lifelines of this city’s palms. What I shortly discovered, through the silences and bottomless whiskey, was the secret wonders Chicago genuinely has to offer. What we Midwesterners are usually doomed with is a sense of complacency to comfort. It’s not a cliché reminder to seize the day we need dosage of, but a simple awakening, a simple moment to appreciate the urban surroundings that cradle us. And if you haven't noticed, Chicago is beautiful. What I’ve discovered prior to and during the execution of this issue, is that Chicago's beauty is somewhat secretive, keeping hidden gems in rarity so when discovered, it’s an experience — a memory engraved in the books, instead of a day’s worth of likes and hype. Unwrapping the potential offerings of this city continues outside this issue. We each have something to offer; we each have a duty to discover these offerings. The survival and longevity of this city depends on it. Whether it's the expanse of our blue-collar work ethic to the undiscovered talent and creativity Chicago residents bleed, there’s a common denominator between all the obvious and unsaid. It takes something greater, the people, to play the back beat of our city's landscape in order to give meaning of “Second City” into a new, personal heightened level. The company and ambition from those who have been featured in this issue, to those who volunteered their skills are forever interlaced within the confines of these pages and beyond city limits. Today I associate not one person, but the people, as the embodiment of the Windy City— now synonymous for the places they’ve carried me into. There hasn’t been a date forgotten, no more important to each other, because each have made memories (now in text and photo form) into the epitome of what this city represents for me. It’s these days, and of course, these Chicago nights, that stay beyond the time I hold the privilege of living here.
Charlie Kane 7
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A GOOD DAY WITH
SHELBY STEINER
words from Shelby Steiner, with an intro by Charlie Kane | photos by Eric Gupana
On the 11th floor of Chicago’s Macy’s flagship location, holds a number of undisclosed rooms that are cultivating some of the city’s most promising fashion designers. One of the 2013-2014 residents for Chicago Fashion Incubator is Shelby Steiner, a Columbia College alumni, whose background in graphic design, blogging (a cult lovers blog, Garçon et Fille), visual merchandising for Topshop, and advertising, has shaped her today with extensive artistic knowledge. While Shelby’s design aesthetic has flourished and developed immensely since her thesis collection, only a year ago, her passionate demeanor has kept intact. As a result, Shelby has developed a current collection that speaks volumes as to what type of designer and person she is. The epitome of this collection is nothing less of the representation of her drive and attitude -- cool chic, with an array of possibilities. 8
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7:15am- Alarm sounds (1+1 by Beyonce). 7:23- Walks blindly to the bathroom. Showers, or throws dry shampoo on. Spends around 20-25 minutes annoyingly sort of brushing hair, and putting on makeup (black liquid cat eyeliner, mascara, and filling in blonde, almost nonexistent eyebrows). 7:41- Makes an English muffin and grabs pre-made smoothie. 8:20- Walks to Wellington Brown Line. Observes what others are wearing, questioning where they are heading, creating assumptions or
scenarios
of
what
his/her
life potentially consists of.
8:24- Transfers at the Fullerton Red Line. Mazzy Star or Coldplay blaring in headphones. 8:57- Arrives at Chicago Fashion Incubator at Macy's. Spots Ali, my rad intern; enters together and gives brief recap of previous day then continues to discuss what we have to accomplish for the day. 9:17- Organizes list of everything to be completed by end of the week (ex: creating patterns, or blueprints of garments, drop-off/pick-ups from sewing contractor, prepping samples, creating CAD designs etc.). 9
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10:00- Cut fabric while climbing on tables. Each of us listening to music and in our own worlds (Me - Kendrick Lamar or Kanye West;
Ali
-
Kenny
Chesney).
Subtle interruptions except for questions or opinions. 10:27rad)
Marketing arrives.
intern
Helps
(also
organize
EVERYTHING. 11:00- Attend an intense seminar on fashion law, time management, hiring contractors, how to sell line etc. Wheels are turning while trying to focus on 1,000 things-from the distance between each button emails,
placement,
answering
contacting
potential
boutiques, to engineering the in/ outside of a garment in my mind 12:00pm- Quick lunch break. Both brought lunches, but still find the need to go to Macy's awesome food court for milkshakes. 12:37- Back to work. Continues working
on
line
intensely
throughout the day. 1:00- Meets with design mentor Andrea Reynders, former head of the Fashion Chair at SAIC. Talks of
struggles,
listens
to
any
suggestions she has, and calms me down / reiterates that I am on the right track, despite my frazzled state. 3:15- Group meeting. All of the designers meet in a beautiful, allwhite conference room to recap our status (currently prepping for our runway show August 29th). We talk 10
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about what is going well, what we
4:43- Ali packs up. I continue
need help with, and what resources
to sew or make patterns until
we have to share with each other.
everything
We are all in different places,
following day.
but it's comforting to know that I
7:27-
have five other incredibly talented
Disappointed on all of the things
and like-minded individuals that
I didn't complete, but then reflect
I can relate to and rely on. (And
on how close I am to completion
yes, we are all willing to help
of the entire collection -- a
each other.)
glimmer of hope.
is
prepped
Questioning
for
my
the
sanity.
8:00- Walks out of the wrong doors of Macy's (also known as, the secret entrance to the Red Line). 8:07- Hops on train. Reads "The Gift"
to
recalibrate.
Feeling
optimistic. 8:23- Finally home. Watches an episode of "The Killing," while texting close friends like Bryan Whitely and Grant Legan. Discusses the process and patience. 9:21-
Tries
everything
to
that
understand
just
happened
in a day, then falls asleep and restarts from where I left off -one step closer to the end goal of sharing my vision, and being able to do what I love daily, longterm. Follow Shelby Steiner: www.shelbysteiner.com Instagram: shelbysteiner
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DENIM, DENIM, DENIM. Denim is no longer another synonym for your jeans. Alas, denim inches closer to become your favorite type of material, serving itself for shirts, buttonups, dresses, jackets, jeans, etc. Moving away from Casual Fridays, denim is a trend treatment for your wardrobe, a makeover with subtleties of the 90s and an overlay of sweet Americana. A more forward approach to denim becomes an upcoming trend itself, basking and covering yourself in its twill-woven magic. Americana at its best, more is more. 12
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1. 3. 5. 7.
Mala La’i Classic Shirt by Reyn Spooner - $89 | 2. Hendrix Shirt by Life After Denim - $84.99 Authentic Lo Pro in Cheetah by Vans - $55 | 4. Moto Short Sleeve Crop Shirt by Topshop - $60 Clarissa Dress by Need Supply - $82 | 6. Dylan in Seychelles by Citizens of Humanity - $129.99 Mr. Pocket Tee in Denim by MISTER - $30 | 8. Backpack in Light and Dark by Dusen Dusen - $105
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HAWAII VICE Kitschy Hawaiian-inspired prints are no longer for
destination
floral
landscapes
attire. to
Bring
your
the
stoop,
islands backyard,
and or
urban playground while the heat prolongs. And the brighter or resonation of tapestry, the better. An all-over print floral is a design detail enough to awaken any type of clothing. Choices that this seasonal trend brings forth unite personality and clothing through the balance of boldness and romanticism for the wearer. 14
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1. Black Blossom Hawaiian Bucket by Huf - $40 | 2. Baseball Jacket with Contrasting Floral Sleeves $80.99 | 3. Cute Floral Printed Dew Waist Dress by Choies - $41.99 | 4. Oli Classic Shirt in Charcoal by Reyn Spooner - $89 | 5. Classic Cortez Nylon QS Aloha in Red by Nike - $85 6. Floral Beach Shorts - $36.99
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MADE TO ORDER In Garfield Park, a 45-year old military, specialty clothing factory shelters a year old company with a milliondollar idea. Stock Mfg. Co. engulfs the value of modern technology by utilizing e-commerce, social media, and influentials to cater, design, and manufacture clothing -- all, proudly made in Chicago.
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high street written by Charlie Kane photos by nosaj thang
Where once, thousands of cows stood cluelessly waiting to be slaughtered and served, I now sit during the waking hours of a Monday work day, wedged between the sounds of an alive factory and residential life. Before me are two of the five founders from Stock Mfg. Co., Jim Snediker and Tim Tierney, ready and always talking shop before, during, and after our sit-down. Their dynamic is comparable to the assemblies
that
were
once
here.
Operative
and
fluid, it's only a wonder of the work ethic and the collaboration between the rest of the founders -Mike Moriarity, Jason Morgan, and Ariel Ives. Yet, this only humbly introduces the awe of this one-year old company. Stock introduces an innovative approach to clothing design and manufacturing, highlighting democracy and transparency to customers in order to sell their garments and products in wholesale prices. Aspiring
designers
and
influentials
collaborate
to design, but customers vote for what garment/ products get made. Mark-ups are not welcome here, but quality Japanese fabrics, and minimalistic, tailored construction are. The further phenomenon heightens, that such a manufacturing company exists in Chicago with creative solutions to beat fast trends and mass production. C.Kane: Stock combines classic clothing craftsmanship with e-commerce technology. How did this business model form? Tim: I guess it's a fusion of a couple different businesses and concepts. Jim: . . . We wanted to make a website where we would actually collaborate [with] different designers and help them get their clothing made. . . Mike, Ariel, and Tim have been working on the concept of Stock 17
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Manufacturing
as
a
vertically
Jim: Right. . . [we] were originally
integrated clothing line.
going to look to get sales reps and
Tim: Yea, [so] everything under one
[sell] to clothing stores. Then we
roof. We do design, development,
decided together, "Hey, why don't
sampling, sourcing, production,
we charge everything basically
and sales, all here at the factory.
half of what it costs in stores
We cut out, threw various jobs
and just try to build an online
in the industry. We realized how
shop?" And that kind of moved
many inefficiencies there were. So
into, “Why don't we collaborate
we decided to create a stripped
with different, influential people
down
Because
-- to get some traffic, and get our
it's not cheap to make stuff in
name out there, and have some fun
America, and we wanted to promote
projects to work on?� And that's
that, especially in Chicago. We
kind of where Stock has ended up
stripped it down to the essentials
now.
-- got everything in one place
C.Kane: You kind of touched upon
so we wouldn't be upcharging with
this, but maybe you can elaborate
contractors at every step. And
more. Many start-ups really do rely
all we were left with was a very
on buyers and try to get in the
efficient model [enabling us to
big-name stores. What attracted
sell] at wholesale directly to the
you to take out the middle-man
customer.
and retailers in your production?
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business
model.
Jim Snediker (left) and Tim Tierney (right)
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Tim: retail
Well, is
we
realized
really
that
changing
--
our goods, especially as a new brand.
especially with high end, higher
Jim: So it's basically, we thought
price point brands. We realized
we had a better chance to get a big
when the economy went down the
following and get larger market
tubes in '08, a lot of companies
penetration by having accessible
we manufactured for either went
price points.
out of business or . . . stopped
C.Kane:
buying. We realized that retailers
this model as you become more
were taking fewer chances with
prestigious?
smaller brands, and they’re just
Jim: Yea. So, an example of that
going into just staples. Or, they
is the relationship we have with
were just going into just cheaper
Bloomingdales. . . We're not making
things
[aren't]
traditional wholesale margins by
spending as much money. And then
selling to Bloomingdales, which
at the same time . . . all these
is how most clothing companies
discount, huge online sites were
survive and make money. But we're
emerging and kind of distorting
getting
customer's views on buying because
it's worth kind of not making as
nobody wanted to pay full price.
much money. [Now we're in nine
. . So we didn't want to have to
Bloomingdale's.]
depend on those retailers to sell
stuff in Bloomingdales is priced
because
people
Are
so
you
much
able
to
exposure
But
even
keep
that
the
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the same as in our site. We're sticking very strictly to our "no retail mark-up." Tim: [And] our products are doing real well. We get updates on sales and stuff. Jim: . . . [For smaller boutiques, we'll] work with [them] in designing a capsule collection, specifically for [their] store, and we'll sell it to [them] and [they] price it how [they] want. . . C.Kane: So what can a consumer expect from a Stock product? In a manufacturing standpoint, what can you guys do or cannot do? Tim: Well we certainly work within our realm. . . But when you're buying
a
Stock
garment,
we've
sourced the highest quality of fabrics from Japan. We actually rep Zentex, which is a Japanese fabric label. And their quality, is much better than anything I’ve seen. The construction is great. Our fits are good. Jim:
I
think
a
consumer
can
expect from Stock to get either a
solid
basic,
like
a
white
oxford or something a little more interesting, . . . but it's always going to fit really well. We price affordably. And be made of the highest quality. Tim: Yea, it's something that'll stay in your wardrobe. C.Kane: So like a staple product that won't go out of season. Tim: Yea, and we mix in some other riskier designs with our basics. 20
"WE PRICE AFFORDABLY. AND BE MADE OF THE HIGHEST QUALITY."
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That kind of appeals to a more fashion forward type of crowd. . . But, as far as quality is concerned -- our factory, like 90% of what we do is tailored military garments, which is like the highest standard quality. The factory has to be certified, having 3 different certifications to make military garments. And it's those same operators who are making all of our clothes. C.Kane: Yea. I read you guys were MIL-SPEC certified. Tim: Yea, there aren't a lot of fashion brands that are [MIL-SPEC certified]. C.Kane: So when selecting your designers or creative individuals to
work
with,
are
you
basing
your selection out of forming or curating a brand lifestyle for Stock, or is strictly promising designers? Jim: So we definitely only try to work with people who have designed garments that fit with our general aesthetic or at least we, the five of us personally like. You know? Not everyone who's a customer of Stock will buy or wear everything that we make. There's plenty of guys that will buy a white oxford shirt, but aren’t going to buy a
camo,
5-panel
hat.
It's
all
things between the five of us, [the founders], or at least most of us think are cool or would wear ourselves. 21
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Tim: Yea, and we all have very
.
different tastes.
when he's designing, so we try
Jim: So we try to kind of stay in the same vain of like, interesting and quality. We like a lot of minimalist design in a lot of things. We like things basic and clean. . . If we like it, that's sort of what we stick with as our brand. C.Kane: Although Chicago's up-andcoming in being a little bit more style conscious, the Midwest is proclaimed to be more focused on function versus style. Does this affect your designs or do you try to marry both at all? Tim: We still know that we're in Chicago . . . We're not in Paris. So we try to design with that sense of sensibility . . . Our
.
He's
very
function-minded
to apply that. But then we have clients . . . [that] we do series of collaborations [and] it's kind of tailored to the creative people that we're working with. . . Like, we're creating some pieces for [Goose Island right now]. One of which is an apron, and so we're meeting
with
their
servers
to
see what specifically they need in an apron -- what types of events
they're
going
to,
what
types of tools they're using. We [also] have an upcoming one this Fall with three mixologists in Chicago. . . There's going to be a “bartender theme� with all the garments, but they could be worn
lead designer, Mike, comes from
by anybody. So an example would be
an industrial design background.
maybe waterproof pants at the top
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because they're leaning up against
manufacturing
a wetbar all the time. . .
Chicago.
Do
companies
you
think
in
Chicago
Jim: Yea I mean, that's only where
has or has a potential garment
the
district that can uphold its own
into
real
functionality
play.
Companies
[comes
approach
against major cities?
us with] problems they have, and
Tim:
we'll solve them. We did that for
own underground network. All the
Alinea and Aviary restaurants. . .
factories work very closely. . .
C.Kane:
American manufacturing has really
It's
like
special,
I
mean
[Chicago
has
its]
concentrated clients.
died down. . . [and it's really
Tim: Yeah, I think as we've gained
been] survival of the fittest. . .
exposure, we found that there’s a
So each shop has their specialty
need for manufacturing and design.
because of the necessity. So if
We've had a lot of people reach
we
out to us. So the nice thing about
with another shop and do that.
being a smaller start-up still, is
We'll cut everything here, maybe
that we're nimble enough to shift
they'll finish it there, and take
gears, and we can take on projects
it
that normally people wouldn't be
it. There's no concentration [in
able to. . .
Chicago], everything's spread out.
C.Kane:
Until
recently
I
hadn't realized there had been
need
knits,
someplace
we
to
could
work
screen-print
There’s people down in Chinatown, there’s people up in Ravenswood.
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chicago nights stay The Por Homme Trench Designed By: Atif Kazmi of Por Homme Sleek and minimalistic with versatility. ---------------------------------------------Center Back Vent 2 Exterior Pockets 1 Ticket Pocket 2 Interior welt pockets with button closure Hidden placket Water resistant Japanese polycotton poplin.
Jim: . . . I think there's definitely
kind of a symbol of the utilitarian
a lot of people in Chicago that
background of Chicago here. We were
want
in
built by butchers and shippers.
motion. But it takes at least one
It's a hard working, kind of blue-
person, to get big and [have] some
collar city. We wanted to reflect
notoriety. Or else, it's just a lot
that in our branding, and the way
of small shops kind of dreaming.
we represent the brand.
C.Kane: The name Stock comes from
Jim:
the Union Stock Yards in Chicago.
creation of hundreds of thousands
Are
of
in
to
put
there
things
other
history
instances
or
I
jobs,
think the
along
with
stockyards
the were
current
also kind of a focal point for
influences that inspired the brand?
innovation in business, as well --
Tim: . . . We wanted to promote
like the auto-assembly line. Henry
job growth. And nothing did that
Ford took a tour of the stockyard,
better than the Union Stock Yards
saw the way they were butchering,
in Chicago that created millions
and decided "Oh, we could do that
of jobs and was around about a
for cars." . . . [Then there's]
hundred years. And I think it's
futures trading. Like basically,
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Chicago
any
those
high street Micro Corduroy Polka Dot Shirt - $95 A fine gauge corduroy with a subtle polka dot all-over pattern. ---------------------------------------------Back Collar Button Flat-Felled Seams Box Pleat Back Single Chest Patch Pocket
the Board of Trade type stuff came
Tim: While we're still peppering in
through [from] people speculating
the collaborations with aspiring
which slaughterhouses would do
designers to give them a chance
well that year. . . Tim:
There
are
a
lot
of
derivatives from the stockyards that are thriving right now. And the stockyards aren't even here anymore. C.Kane: Your innovativeness and mission is truly inspirational, are
you
hoping
to
kickstart
businesses in implementing this model?
Are
you
encouraging
to really get their pieces made and get out there, in order to grow the business for us, we're really
enjoying
collaborating
with these, more like influential people who aren't really designers [like
bloggers,
photographers,
and stylists]. C.Kane: Yea, I saw your concept series, and you'd ask them, "What
manufacturing back in the U.S.?
garment do you want to have?" Then
Jim: That's the overall arching
design from there.
goal, for sure. . . 25
chicago nights stay
"WE WERE BUILT BY BUTCHERS AND SHIPPERS. IT'S A HARD WORKING, KIND OF BLUECOLLAR CITY. WE WANTED TO REFLECT THAT IN OUR BRANDING, AND THE WAY WE REPRESENT THE BRAND."
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chicago nights stay Blue Color Flecked Shirt - $88 A classic "blue collar" button-down made of a soft, color flecked chambray. ---------------------------------------------Back Collar Button Flat-Felled Seams Box Pleat Back Single Chest Patch Pocket
Jim: Right, and . . . it's a very
-- but, I noticed that a lot of
targeted demographic. . . It's
the people who come out of design
people we know [who'd] appreciate
school end up working for giant
what we're doing.
companies. . . I think it kind
C.Kane:
creative
of primes the students to work
folks, designers, are cultured and
for a big company like that. . .
nurtured in Chicago, but choose
But we're working on creating jobs
to move away in order to support
here. . .
their talents. Do you have any
Jim: If you're at the stage right
words or advice to 23BLVD readers
now where you want to get out
on how to live their dreams in
of school and make a career for
Chicago?
yourself in [the] fashion industry
Tim: Well, we're working on it.
in Chicago, you kind of have to do
All: [laughs].
it on your own. There's no company.
Tim: There are a lot of design
There's no one here. There's no
schools in Chicago and not a lot
fashion house. . . People always
of design jobs. And one thing,
talk about the fashion industry
and this might kind of be cynical
in Chicago -- "We're going to make
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Many
artists,
high street The Ryan Designed by: Ryan Plett Short-sleeved white button-down with contrasting chambray. ---------------------------------------------Slim-fit with tri-panel back French seams 100% lightweight cotton Chambray lower panels
the fashion industry in Chicago as
internet. Stuff changes so we need
big as New York." That's not going
to be nimble. We can't lock in
to happen. It's so in entrenched
design and say, "Ah shit, nine
in New York.
months later. We got to deliver
C.Kane: [New York] has years and
this."
years of experience. It’s where it
Jim: Yea, so we don't necessarily
started in the U.S.
consid er
Jim: . . . So yea. We're kind of
fashion
more interested in making really
manufacturers.
ou rselves industry."
We're
"t he more
good stuff and building a business for it, as opposed to like...
Follow Stock Mfg. Co.
Tim: ...adhering to the fashion
www.stockmfg.co
schedule.
Twitter: @StockMfgCo
C.Kane: And mass production.
Instagram: stockmfgco
Tim: Right. . . Trends move. Very fast. Especially with Tumblr, and
For the extended interview, visit
other social media stuff, and just
www.23blvd.tumblr.com
the availability of style on the 29
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CHICAGO NIGHTS STAY
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starring
photographed by
Melanie Christmas
Katrina Tarzian
Elly Jimenez
styled by
Charlie Kane
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CHICAGO NIGHTS STAY starring
photographed by
Melanie Christmas
Katrina Tarzian
Elly Jimenez
styled by
Charlie Kane
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NO WAVES, NO GLORY Alike the emcee upbringing of DotKom through the group, The Kitchen, and the backdrop of J. Arthur’s
nine-to-five,
theWHOevers have kept to their roots -- in the kitchen, where the musical magic is cooked, stirred, and served.
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J. Arthur (Left) and DotKom (right)
main street written by Charlie Kane photos by KP
There exists a flat on Pierce Street that is a hub for influential music and art in Chicago. Each end of the hallway serving a different purpose, with J. Arthur’s corner echoing with tomorrow’s music. I’ve watched them work on songs and lyrics together, being silenced as they slay beats and bars throughout the night. Upon seeing the accompaniment of Little Caesar’s pizza boxes, Dunkin' Donuts coffee, bad and good beer, “O” rings from hookah smoke, and the sounds of when pen touches paper or finger taps on phone screens, only have I realized the humans and boyhood in the duo. On writing about theWHOevers from today versus back in 2010, not much and everything has changed for the duo. For instance, the fate for them to work together has perfectly synced since their start. Witnessing them in that Humboldt Park apartment for 2 years, theWHOevers have made it look effortless. The comparison between the past and present display otherwise -- three years in the making filled with beats, sweat, passion, and persistence. From their monthly gig at The Abbey Pub, and now opening for respected artists such as Elzhi, and Evidence from Dilated Peoples. From having their closest friends following their music, to being verified on Twitter. From slumming work in the corners of a kitchen, to making home in a new studio. From a classic boombap flow, to experimentation in song-making. They are as hungry for progression in their craft, now carry a name that’s surfaced in Chicago to recognize its familiarity, and still, completely appreciative of those who have come to support and collaborate with them. In many ways they have arrived, but as artists who continue to strive better for themselves and their fanbase, they are just on the brink to catch a wave. 49
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C.Kane: The discography between
But now, a lot of lyrics we write
J. Self to J. Arthur, The Kitchen
is definitely through experience
to DotKom, and now to theWHOevers
and things we’ve been through in
dates back almost to a decade
the last couple of years.
now. From the beginning of your
DotKom: Also, we try to make our
emcee paths, how has your sound
music as simple as it can be now.
or flow changed, individually and
J. Arthur: Definitely.
collectively?
DotKom: I mean studying The Beatles
J. Arthur: Well, it’s changed a
and all that, you can tell like
lot really. It all has to. Through
their songs are really simple. And I
time, from the different genres
guess most simple songs, nowadays,
we’ve gotten involved with and
they end up to be the classic ones
influenced by... it definitely has
that people remember.
changed a lot.
J. Arthur: If you think about it...
DotKom:
Yea.
I
think
for
me,
The Beatles [are a great example].
instead of just focusing on the
Look at their discography.
aspect on being really ‘lyrical,’
DotKom: Yea, I mean with this
I slowed down my flow a lot more
next album too, "Ridin’ Waves,"
and focused on melodies. Not just
you could tell the definite change
rapping,
within [its] sound, our flows. [Our
but
[making]
sure
my
lyrics mean something.
style is] still there. We kind of
J. Arthur: Of course.
sound the same still, but it’s a
DotKom: Other than just putting
different type of genre plugged in
crazy words together and make it
there.
a good song, you know? Like even
C.Kane: It’s really interesting
our choruses -- we try to make
that you said you’re trying to keep
it as catchy as we can, and have
it simple. Because even though you
different melodies for it, as well.
guys are going towards that, I
So,
be
feel like you’re not compromising
better artists -- studying other
yourselves at all. That says a
people, from house artists to R&B,
lot.
to soul -- we learn a lot from
DotKom: Mmhm.
different genres definitely.
C.Kane:
C.Kane: J., when you said that
sound
it’s changed a lot through the
description
years, do you mean your topics
“underground” influence. Do you
have changed?
enjoy that association or niche of
J. Arthur: I would think so. At
your sound?
first it was like “wapping.” Trying
J. Arthur: Yea, I mean it’s stuff
to out-do somebody with big words.
we were brought up on. It’s very
50
[we’re]
just
trying
to
Reviews always
about include
of
“90s”
your the or
main street
"AT FIRST IT WAS LIKE 'WAPPING.' TRYING TO OUT-DO SOMEBODY WITH BIG WORDS. BUT NOW, A LOT OF LYRICS WE WRITE IS DEFINITELY THROUGH EXPERIENCE..."
51
chicago nights stay
us
DotKom: Or if they change their
in that category. But, this new
sound or not, there’s always going
flattering
for
them
to
put
album will definitely show a lot of people that we’re not just about 90s, boom-bap, R&B, soul music. This new album has a lot of different sounds that we’ve been trying to cook up. It’s going to be interesting. DotKom: We’re definitely stepping out of the box a lot more. We do have our boom-bap tracks in there, of course. Because it’s our sound. It’s what made us. J. Arthur: It’s our soul. It’s our group. DotKom: I think whatever artist, no matter who they are, always has that piece of essence. Regardless if they blow up or not. J. Arthur: That they do. 52
to be that little something that they had when they first came out, that’s still in their music today. But yea, I’m really proud that people could... J. Arthur: [Associate us]. It’s an honor. It really is. C.Kane:
In
mainstream
music,
Chicago bursts of musical talent once in a blue moon in comparison to other major cities. Contrary to
popular
sound,
local
and
underground talent beams across our
neighborhoods.
Is
there
something about Chicago’s talent that influences your music as well? DotKom: I think [house music], . . . the fast-rapping from Twista, the creativity from Lupe, the variety of sound that even Kanye brings,
main street
and the boom-bap of Common... we
J.Arthur: A juke track.
all learn from that. We learn from
DotKom: We all pick up from each
everybody.
other.
C.Kane: What about local talent?
C.Kane: Do you think Chicago has
Does anybody make you want to
a specific sound right now?
work harder?
DotKom: You know what? I don’t
DotKom: ShowYouSuck, man. That
think we do. I think we grab from
guy. We started at the same time
the West Coast, East Coast, and we
and look at him now. And, Lili K.
add something unique to it.
She’s definitely doing something.
J. Arthur: It’s sort of a twang
J. Arthur: There’s a lot of young
that we have.
cats in the city though, like Alex
DotKom:
Wiley and Chance The Rapper, they
describe Chicago music right now,
have some great, quality music.
because it’s coming from different
DotKom:
angles.
Right.
It’s
kind
of
Yea,
you
really
can’t
refreshing, too. They’re not just
J. Arthur: We got everything in
doing boom-bap. They’re bringing
it.
in the new wave of sound which I
C.Kane: DotKom, you’re the wild
think is [influential]. They have
child of the group. Beyond your
a big [pull] on everyone that’s
lyrical twisters and beneath that
around the local scene. So I think
infamous voluptuous hair, I think
every new artist, nowadays, on the
followers would be surprised to
come up in Chicago, influence each
hear that you are a teacher. Does
other or takes a little piece,
this
whether it’s singing a vocal or...
music at all?
profession
influence
your
53
chicago nights stay
54
main street
"...THE FASTRAPPING FROM TWISTA, THE CREATIVITY FROM LUPE, THE VARIETY OF SOUND THAT EVEN KANYE BRINGS, AND THE BOOM-BAP OF COMMON... WE ALL LEARN FROM THAT. WE LEARN FROM EVERYBODY."
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chicago nights stay
DotKom: Yea, because I gotta watch
though. But, I [treat] music as
what I say a lot more. And of
a big responsibility, too . . .
course I can’t say any stupid,
C.Kane: Are you ever thinking of
ignorant things . . . I’m pretty
beats at work?
sure some of my students will
J. Arthur: Oh of course, all the
catch up that I do music, because
time. [laughs].
I tell them all the time that
sample this. I should sample that
I was into it in college, and I
. . .” But, I don’t put both of them
still do music now. I really gotta
together. Like I know [cooking] is
watch myself. Being a teacher also
[my] day job, but I know [music]
makes you aware of a lot of things
is my passion. And I feel like
going on [with] the city . . .
[music] is the only thing I got
and it does shape up what I write
right now. It means a lot.
about in my lyrics, as well.
C.Kane:
C.Kane: J. Arthur, beyond that
together, but could you explain
exterior
exactly what your process is when
of
the
collective
of
wavy
hooks,
song
the
calm,
cool,
group, and
the
beneath
I’ve
I say, “I should
seen
you
work
making a song? DotKom:
We
take
our
time,
the mastermind of theWHOevers’
nowadays. Before, we would just
production,
followers
cruise through beats. We find one
would be surprised to hear that
that we like, and just write to
you are a cook during the day.
it right away. Nowadays, it’s more
Are there some similarities in
like, [J. Arthur] plays a couple
preparation between the two?
of
J. Arthur: It’s totally separate.
a new one. We have the hookah
[Cooking is] a big responsibility,
going. Usually, coffee. And really
56
I
think
beats
or
he
starts
making
main street
take our time with it -- think of
Like [J. Arthur] said earlier, it’s
what’s the concept, what should we
our passion. We don’t really think
write about. And, instead of going
about it as work, whenever we
to the usual 16 bars, we try to
do make music. It’s really a fun
switch it up a lot more and see
process. We don’t have a deadline
how we can be a lot more creative
for anything. I mean we do, but we
and different.
just keep on working at our own
J. Arthur: Just thinking outside
pace. Which I think, makes it fun.
the box. Yeah.
C.Kane: What could we expect for
C.Kane: a
It’s
musician,
easy
the rest of 2013?
years,
J. Arthur: Well, we’re trying to wrap up the next album titled,
an artist. How have you guys kept
Ridin’ Waves, which is hopefully
persistence throughout?
due
J. Arthur: Just working on it,
fingers. But yea, it’s coming along.
and being influenced by, you know,
We’re just working on it, trying to
not just our favorite artists,
perfect it for everybody, And see
[but] people around us, and the
where it goes, see where it takes
experiences that we have overcame
us. See where the waves takes us.
and
C.Kane: Where does the album title
through.
takes
become
patience, and dedication to become
gone
but
to
It
plays
a
in
October.
Crossing
our
big deal in music, and sharing
come from?
it with somebody is an amazing
DotKom: Well first of all we’re
feeling . . .
thinking, [we’re] both Pisces.
DotKom: I think just ‘cause we’re
J. Arthur: Oh yea, yea, yea. I
so in love with music, it makes
wanted something along the lines
it easy for us to keep on going.
of our zodiac but nothing really 57
chicago nights stay
came to mind. So then somebody brought it up, about "Ride the waves, riding waves." And then we sat on it and were like, “Okay, you know what? This could actually be pretty cool.” DotKom: Yea. Riding waves kind of goes along with your life. You’re
basically
riding
waves.
[They] could be big. [They] could have calm days. [They] could have crazy days. You just really don’t know; you just have to keep on riding it. So it’s kind of like a metaphor, I guess. Even the sound of the album. J. Arthur: It’s pretty loose. DotKom: It’s pretty loose, right? Trippy sounds, almost. We have our slow songs, our exciting, big sounds... J. Arthur: So yea, it’s everywhere. DotKom: It’s everywhere, like a big ocean. J. Arthur: Yea. [laughs]. DotKom: Surfing. J. Arthur: Surf boys. DotKom: That’s why I grew my hair. J. Arthur: Let’s call it “Surf Boys.” C.Kane: Any last words to your fans and 23BLVD readers? J. Arthur: Peace to 23BLVD, always. DotKom:
Yes,
yes.
Make
sure
you guys check out the monthly WHO
Wednesdays
.
.
.
[and]
pay attention to when we drop Ridin’ Waves coming out hopefully October 2013. 58
main street
J. Arthur: Make sure you take your vitamins. And exercise. DotKom: Oh yea! Don’t eat too much sugar. J. Arthur: Yea, don’t do that. DotKom: Keep a balanced diet. And don’t just listen to one type of music. J.
Arthur:
Don’t
bite
anyone
either. DotKom: Don’t bite. Wash your body everyday. Both: [laughs]. DotKom:
Yea,
wash
your
body
everyday. Eat tacos. Follow theWHOevers Soundcloud: soundcloud.com/thewhoevers Facebook: theWHOevers Twitter: @theWHOevers For the extended interview, visit www.23blvd.tumblr.com
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chicago nights stay
CROP IT OUT
A current staple for a lady’s closet is the crop top. Its versatility from its loose or tight fits, raised or lowered hems, and the extent of its design from simplistic to an opportunity for unique details, graphics, and branding -- gives crop tops the continued edge for foregoing seasons. There’s a certain play on proportions that crop tops provide. The nudge of sex appeal plus the ability to spice up or casually wear makes this top accessible, a favorite, and an overall upgrade to the plain graphic tee. 60
main street
1. Blackstone Egypt Cropped Tee - $44 | 2. Boss Angeles Crop Tank by Dimepiece - $44 | 3. Cool-Girl Cut-Out Top by Forever 21 - $15.80 | 4. VOGUE Mesh Top by Patricia Field - $24.99 | 5. Blind Faith Crop Top by Nasty Gal - $32 | 6. Garcon Crop Top by Topshop - $32
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chicago nights stay
HOT MESH Styled correctly, jerseys and mesh fabric can always emulate the confidence of Geoffrey Beene’s 1960s designs or the hip collective of Chanel runway shows during the mid 1990s. Classy and cool, jerseys leave room for imagination of the wearer -- playful, trendsetter, athletic, or bandwagoner. Above all else, they're blunt and territorial towards representation. Whether this trend trickles up or fades in the next couple of seasons, the jersey will always remain a staple for the everyday Joe and Jane who just wants to kick back with a drink in hand. 62
main street
1. Pro Top by Belle of The Brawl - $75 | 2. Mesh Army Tank by Stussy - $44 | 3. Chicago Mesh Tank by Body Rag - $32 | 4. Blank Panther Mesh T-shirt by Topman - $44 | 5. Black/White Homies Trucker Mesh Hat by Reason - $48 | 6. House Mesh Sporty Lace Sandals by Topshop - $70
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chicago nights stay
A GOOD DAY WITH
INEBRIATED BREWING
words from David Gibbons, with an intro by Charlie Kane | photos by Judson Bernardo
The introduction of brewing began four years ago for David Gibbons as a Christmas present. Two years later, a transformation from hobby to passion emerges as Inebriated Brewing -- craft beers made by the mind and hands of Gibbons. Mirrored from the brewer's personality rises the essence of a new batch-- chill and approachable, vast yet familiar. Prepared in his kitchen, brewed on the back porch, and packaged in the dining room, the humble beginnings of Inebriated Brewing are no reflection of the beers itself. With sophisticated tastes and a kick of quirkiness, beers such as Palate Fucker, Butt Nut, and Chocolate Trip-
bears only a small example of what this micro-brewery has to offer.
A good day with Inebriated Brewing includes the therapeutic pleasures of experimenting with recipes, drinking, and being surrounded by the like minds of Chicago's beer community. 64
main street David Gibbons: Here is a brief, yet descriptive summary of the day in the life of a typical brew day (Brewing Tessera - An all Mosaic extra pale ale). 9:00AM – Awake. Brush my teeth, and grab the laptop to get some noise going (John Coltrane on Pandora) while I gather the equipment for my brew day, consisting of a 38-gallon converted cooler mashtun (acquired from LowDive Brewing Co.), a ½ barrel boil kettle w/ side pick-up dip tube and ½ inch ball valve, hoses, propane tank and banjo floor burner. 9:22 – Fill my boil kettle. Throw it on burner and submerge floating thermometer. And wait. Meanwhile, I grab what grains I need -- pre-measured and sealed in buckets, and get together what carboys I need (filling 'em with sanitizer) which I will ferment in. 9:40 – I switch to DJ Shadow, turn it up, and dump mash water in tun. Pour grains in, slowly stir, and take a temp. Then close lid and set timer for an hour (for conversion of sugars). This grain bill consists of 2 Row, Aromatic, Carapils and White Wheat Malts. 10:05 – Now that I got things going, I make some instant coffee (yea I keep it old school) and spark one up to get my day started. I also measure out whatever water I need to sparge with (rest of hot water needed to acquire our final boil volume) and begin to heat that water up to my desired temp. 10:40 – I grab two pitchers, a square folded tinfoil and the sparge water I just heated up. I slowly open valve on mashtun and pour thru tube to pitcher to start vorloufing (basically filling pitchers up and dumping back over top of mash via tinfoil to avoid channeling until there are no grains coming out valve i.e. creating a steady flowing grain bed). 10:55 – Now that my wort is clear and no grains are running thru, I start draining into boil kettle. As I am draining original water from the mashtun, I add my sparge water back on top, this is called fly sparging. 11:39 – When my sparge water and mash tun is completely drained and dry, and our volume of wort is where we want it, I put the kettle back on the burner and begin to bring this sweet wort to a boil. I change up the music to Bonobo and crack a Two Bros Sidekick (one of my favorite session beers) and wait until I get a rollin' boil. 12:21PM – My beer is boiling. I set the timer for 15 min. and wait to achieve the hardest consistent boil, then set the timer again for 60 min. (time needed for hop additions and to boil off all dms). 65
chicago nights stay 12:36 – Shit is rollin' and I'm ready to add my first hop additions. In this beer, I am adding a small amount of Mosaic hops for bittering (Known as HBC369, Mosaic is the first born child of Simcoe. Some have described it as Citra on steroids, but it’s much more than that. Rich in mango, lemon, citrus, earthy pine, tropical fruit, herbal and stone fruit notes.) The rest will be late additions known as aroma addition, which I'll add a shit ton of!
12:46 – What do you think!? I crack another sidekick and spark a little more! Half of a brewday is about waiting around, dude!
1:00 – I have some more prepping to do. . . I empty the sanitizer from
my
carboys
(fermenters)
and
let
them
dry,
grab
everything else I need to sanitize, and throw them in a bucket filled with StarSan (anything that comes in contact with beer after it is boiled and cooled must be sanitized to avoid infection).
1:21 – It’s the last 15 minutes of boil, so I throw in more Mosaic hops, wort chiller (device used to cool wort to yeast pitching temps
quickly),
and
a
clarifying
agent
called whirlfloc. I continue to boil and add a crap load more of hops every 5 minutes until flameout.
1:37 – Boil is done. Now it's time to chill this bitch out! I connect wort chiller to the sink via hoses that are submerged in ice bath (copper coiled tubing that when
cold water is ran through, the coils cool the hot wort to a healthy pitching temp for yeast), and crank the cold water to get this wort to a 65 degree temp.
2:04 - I pull out the chiller (that’s what she said) and whirlpool (stirring cooled wort in circular motion to get a whirlpool) cover and let sit for another 15-20 minutes. This pretty much whirlpools the hops and sediment to the center of kettle, so when you drain the kettle the hops stay in center forming a cone. You run off clear, clean wort, which gives you a clearer beer in the end.
2:20 – Whirlpool is settled, so I begin to run out beer through hose into my clean and sanitized carboys.
2:40 – Fermenters are filled and kettle is drained. I grab the aerator (a stainless steel wand with air stone attached to oxygen tank) and begin purging straight O2 into the beer to give a good healthy environment for the yeast to do its thing.
2:50 – I grab my yeast starter and pitch this built-up goodness into both fermenters, grab some stoppers and tubes, and set up a blow-off airlock (a 66
main street
tube running from fermenter into a bucket of sanitizer, just in case if any beer is pushed out and top doesn’t fly off. I’ve had plenty of beers blow up leaving beer all over my walls .. not a good way to keep the lady of the house happy). 2:52 - Placed both fermenters in my converted chest freezer, set temp at 68 degrees, and take a breath. Another batch of brew under my belt! 3:00 - Now comes the worst part… cleaning up! I scrub, dump and soak my equipment in a cleaning agent called
another to get me through the lack of motivation of scrubbing out every nook and cranny in this kettle. 3:45 - The brew day is now officially done. Equipment is clean, beer is fermenting, and this 'Day in the Life' article is complete! I grab my Jack Russell named Mika, keys, and head out to pick up my lovely fiancé Rebecca for an evening out… Follow Inebriated Brewing www.inebriatedbrewing.webs.com Facebook: Inebriated Brewing
PBW while I finish my beer, and crack
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chicago nights stay
69 HUMBLE BEGINNINGS
credits | table of contents
64 A GOOD DAY
a day in the life of Inebriated Brewing
60 BLOCK STYLE
trend report: crop tops | mesh
48 NO WAVES, NO GLORY
featured interview with theWHOevers
46 CHICAGO NIGHTS STAY
68
photoshoot: inspired by various locations in Chicago
main street
23BLVD caters and concentrates on documenting urban style and the subcultures surrounding them, by fusing main street and high-street to capture both influences while blurring the boundaries of these different lifestyles. Our main focus is to instigate a positive drive. This zine serves as a visual journal, combining imagery and design, strong text, and overall good content that documents talent and tempo — evidence that urban youth culture is expansive and influential, not wasted.
COVER PAGES. Chicago Hot Dogs from Portillos; food styling and prep by Raul Polidario; nails done by Spifster Sutton; anaglyph glasses from American Paper Optics; photographs by Eric Gupana | CREDITS. Photobooth pictures from Beauty Bar. | Page 58. photographs by Judson Bernardo - judsonnotjustin.com | Page 56. photographs of products are from respective brand sites: Nasty Gal, Dimepiece, Forever 21, Choies, Topshop | Page 57. photographs of products are from respective brand sites: Topshop, Topman, Hellz Bellz, Stussy, Urban Outfitters, Reason | Page 44. photographs by KP - knowpassion.com | Page 26-43. photographs by Katrina Tarzian facebook.com/katerjayne ; modeled by Melanie Christmas and Elly Jimenez; (cricket hill, 26, 34-37) on Melanie: Cheetah Circles Earrings by H&M $12.95; Fancy Jersey Dress by H&M $9.95; Striped Pencil Skirt in Black and White by Forever 21; Jelly Cut-Out Shoes by Urban Outfitters $29.95; on Elly: Stripe Mock Crop Top by A'gaci $24.95; Pineapple Woven Skirt by H&M $12.95; (north ave. beach, 38) on Melanie: Nouveu Knitwear Jersey Crop Top by H&M $24.95; Neon Circle Skirt by Forever 21; Chicago Roller Skates from Belmont Army Surplus; (pilsen walls, 28-31) on Melanie: Colorblock Envelope Skort in Blue by A'gaci $26.50; Roundsnake Chain by A'gaci $13.50; BOOM Cat Comic Tank by A'gaci $11.50; Ankle Fringe Boots in Black by Kelsi Dagger $109.00; Midi Nail Rings by H&M $12.95; 312 bomber; on Elly: Hmmm Commic Seamless Tank by A'gaci $11.50; Zipper Pocket Net Tank by A'gaci $10.95; Canvas Lace-ups in Black by A'gaci $11.50; Polka Dot Socks by A'gaci $9.95; Nickel Skateboard by Penny; Pabst Blue Ribbon Tall Boy; Crescent Moon Necklace by Forever 21; (mary bartelme park, 32-33) Chicago Flag from Bye Bye Chicago $19.99; Chicago Hot Dogs from Mr. Greek's Gyro; on Melanie: Rowells Jacket by H&M $59.95; Urban Renewal Overalls by Urban Outfitters $49.95; Black Bandeau by Urban Outfitters; 5-panel Hat in Gray by Supreme; Mista Flatforms in Periwinkle $170; on Elly: Tie Back Polka Dot Mesh Crop Halter by A'gaci $19.50; Windowpane Shortalls by A'gaci $23.50; Padded Seamless Bandeau in Nude by A'gaci; Polka Dot Socks by H&M $9.95; (orange line, 40-43) on Melanie: Dip Hi-Lo Open Back Tank by Windsor $22.90; Fringed Shorts in Black by Cheap Monday; Suede Platform Clogs by Ecote; on Elly: Motorcycle Leather Vest in Pink by American Heritage; Wavy Sequin Micro Mini by A'gaci $24.50 | Page 12. photographs by nosaj thang - instagram: nosajthang; all clothing featured is available on Stock Mfg. Co.'s website. | Page 10. photographs of products are from respective brand sites: Topshop, Need Supply, Urban Outfitters, Karmaloop, Mister | Page 11. products are from respective brand sites: Choies, HUF, Reyn Spooner, Need Supply | Page 6. photographs by eric gupana | VELLUM. photograph by charlie kane
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chicago nights stay issue 02