THE SCOOP

SUPERTEQUILA Tequila is mounting a charge on other spirits in the Super Premium category. It’s a brave new world of flavour and Olmeca, a popular brand in South Africa, has released a new label to compete for share of throat.

Distilled from the juice of the blue agave plant and from a specific geographical area in Mexico, tequila is known as a party starter – but in the past few years it has stepped out of the shot glass, ditched the lemon and salt and is now in a highball, specially for slow sipping and appreciation.

“The trend in tequila is very positive. It’s one of the fastest growing spirits categories worldwide,” says Pierre-Aymeric du Cray, vice-president of the House of Tequila at Pernod Ricard México.

“With the rise of mixology, people now understand tequila as a versatile, quality spirit.” Maestro Tequilero at Olmeca Altos distillery in Jalisco, Jesús Hernandez, said the biggest challenge was making a complex, flavourful tequila that is “friendly when you drink it”.

“Tequila should do justice to the raw material, the agave plant. For me, it’s important that tequila keeps the emphasis on the agave.” Those lime and agave notes come through neatly in Olmeca Altos, a tequila created by and for mixologists. Its bold citrus character and full palate mean that it’s more than able to hold its own in a cocktail.

A WINTER STORM IS COMING World-renowned Scottish distiller Glenfiddich has added a third single malt in its Experimental Series to its lineup; this time a whisky aged in Icewine barrels. Expect the exclusive product to carry a suitably appropriate price tag as it’s a hand-crafted small batch product. Just 150 bottles of Glenfiddich Winter Storm will be available for purchase in South Africa.

“The Experimental Series embodies the family philosophy of freedom and possibilities with its range of ground-breaking single malts,” said Richard Brodrick, marketing manager for Glenfiddich at Edward Snell & Co. the local distributors for the brand. “Masterful craft which goes beyond anything ever produced by a whisky maker.”

“The Icewine casks Glenfiddich used for Winter Storm held Riesling grapes for nine years before being repurposed for whisky,” Brodrick said. “Due to the dominant character of Icewine, Malt Master Brian Kinsman could only use the rarer whiskies, those aged for no less than 21 years to cope with the intensity of flavour, which means the whisky contained in Winter Storm is the rarest of the Glenfiddich stocks.”

Fewer than 8 000 bottles were made, Brodrick revealed, “and to be able to offer a limited release to South Africa is incredibly exciting for the brand as there aren’t any plans in the works for a second batch.”

“There is a growing trend in craft spirits and with consumers’ need for authenticity coupled with the fact that Glenfiddich as a brand has a massive consumer following, we believe that this limited edition will be well received by South African whisky aficionados.”

Winter Storm combines the oakiness of single malt with the heightened candied luscious sweetness from the Icewine cask finish.

DOWN TO EARTH There’s no single thing that stands out about Stellenbosch family-owned winery Villiera – simply because there are too many different elements to the story to mention.

The Grier family, with brothers, sisters and cousins running the show, have been around for decades, just quietly going about their business. But their business is not just about wine. The Griers realise that their employees are key, as is the physical and social environment they operate in. It’s why they got involved in the Pebbles Project, offering nursery and after-care facilities to Pebbles when it started out nearly two decades ago. The Project is now on a number of farms, from Robertson to Hermanus, providing early childhood intervention which is having tangible results for the wine farm workers’ children who have benefitted from the mobile toy and book libraries as well as computer vans. Villiera is also home to a well-equipped and utilised clinic – and is also why 200-plus hectares was set aside as nature reserve on their farm, complete with giraffe, zebra, eland and a host of other species. Then there is more than 1000 sq metres of solar panels making the winery energy independent and some of the greenest farming practices around.

No wonder they were deemed Drinks Business winner in 2017 as Green Company of the Year. Villiera was one of the pioneers of Methode Cap Classique in South Africa, and one of the first ever winners of the Chenin Blanc Challenge, notably with an unwooded example – a feat that has yet to be replicated. Villiera has a wine for everyone – from their Down to Earth range, to the Monro family range, the many bubblies of which Villiera Tradition is perhaps the best know, to their “straight” Villiera range of whites and reds. Price points might vary but the quality doesn’t.

PRETTY AS A PICTURE Papillon, the range of sparkling wines produced by Van Loveren family vineyards in Robertson, has undergone a nip and tuck makeover.

The brand has been going strong for 30 years and is a firm favourite with consumers, many of whom travel to the winery during the annual Wacky Wine Weekend festivities which take place at the end of May.

Marking its 30th birthday, the range of alcoholic and non-alcoholic sparkling wines have been granted a dramatic new look. Papillon’s launch in 1987 coincided with Van Loveren’s 50th anniversary of farming in the valley alongside the banks of the Breede River and the name was inspired by butterflies of the lush, public garden at Van Loveren; Papillon is the French name for the majestic little insect.

In addition to new packaging, the full range also has a newcomer: the Papillon ChardonnayPinot Noir Brut Rosé is available in a dry Brut and and off-dry Demi-Sec as well as the two alcoholfree variations.

The secret to Papillon’s success has been in its broad appeal – catering to all tastes from dry to sweet. It’s also not limited to enjoyment at special events but is comfortably popped any day of the week as a fun beverage.

GOLD ... AGAIN!

Scottish Leader 12 year old winning gold at the World Whiskies Awards in the UK didn’t come as a surprise to those in the know.

“It’s not the first time this impressive spirit has been recognised, having earned gold at both the 2016 and 2017 editions of the International Spirits Challenge (ISC) and a gold outstanding medal at the 2015 International Wine & Spirit Competition,” said Dr Kirstie McCallum, head of the highly skilled Scottish Leader blending team.

“It truly features outstanding quality, flavour and skill. Our team is celebrating this acknowledgment. It really means a lot to this dynamic brand that stands for the richer possibilities, brought on by taking a new perspective.”

The judges praised the whisky for its signature smooth, rich and sweet profile

that has earned the brand a significant international following over the years.

Scottish Leader 12 year old is crafted using a bespoke blend of the finest unpeated Highland and Speyside malts, combined with Scottish grains for a smooth, approachable style. The majority of the Highland and Speyside malts selected are matured in American oak casks which contribute toward the rich oak and vanilla characteristics, and the fruity, floral elegance.

“This new perspective ethos is also the driving force shaping our marketing campaign in South Africa, a key market for the brand where Scottish Leader 12 year old was launched a little over a year ago,” said Meryll Stocks Roos, marketing spokesperson for Scottish Leader in South Africa.

DOUBLING DOWN Two worlds don’t so much collide as meld and merge in the form of famous Speyside single malt Macallan’s latest release, the Macallan Double Cask 12 year old which has just been introduced to South Africa.

The distillery believes in the saying that when two worlds come together, they create something magical or extraordinary – which is why this release tells a special tale.

To create Double Cask, Macallan brought new (white) oak from America across thousands of miles to Spain, where the casks were crafted and sherry-seasoned before travelling to the distillery on the banks of the river Spey in Scotland’s Highlands. After a minimum maturation of 12 years, the whiskies were then harmoniously united with those aged for a minimum of 12 years in the very best sherry seasoned European oak casks. This union reveals an unmatched investment in time and extraordinary commitment to mastery for which The Macallan has been known since 1824.

Exclusively aged in the sherry seasoned casks – American and European – The Macallan Double Cask 12 Years Old delivers a distinct American oak style, reflecting a perfect harmony of flavours and natural colour. The delicate flavour of American oak – vanilla, citrus and light oak – rises in prominence as the traditional Macallan character of rich fruit, sherry and wood spice affords a familiar backdrop. It’s a flavour combination which is guaranteed until the very last drop.

INTERNATIONAL RESPECT Respect is earned, so the saying goes. And to win the respect and admiration of an international audience is quite something – to be recognised beyond your own, local bubble. Three South African producers made it into the top 50 in Drinks International’s “World’s Most Admired Wine Brands” list: Nederburg, Tokara and La Motte.

Paarl-based winery Nederburg was the highest-ranked of the three, slotting in at number 41 – but as proud as punch at even making the list for the third consecutive year.

According to the organisers, to make it into the international line-up of the top 50 wine brands, demands consistent or improving quality, a reflection of region or country of origin, a responsiveness to the needs and tastes of target audiences, excellent marketing and packaging and a strong appeal to a wide demographic.

“This is a true testament to Tokara’s forward-thinking vision, solidifying the strength and appreciation of our brand and speaking to our continued commitment to excellence in wine,” said Karl Lambour, general manager, saying it was the result of hard work and dedication of all Tokara employees.. “In today’s world, experience is at the essence of what we do. Sharing our passion for quality food and fine wine in an inventive way keeps our guests intrigued,” said La Motte CEO, Hein Koegelenberg.

His words were echoed by Robyn Bradshaw, Nederburg’s global marketing spokesperson. “Such high-level affirmation for Nederburg is a huge boost as we build the brand’s global presence and profile to retain its relevance, appeal and popularity amongst a wide spectrum of wine consumers.”

The judging panel comprised a broad spectrum of global wine professionals, including commercial buyers, importers, wine professionals, masters of wine, journalists and wine educators. DO THE TWIST

Bouchard Finlayson, one of the pioneers of the Hemel en Aarde valley as a wine producing area, has released its 2017 vintage Blanc de Mer under Stelvin screw cap closure for the first time. The reason given for the change was in response to the demand for convenience by consumers and restaurants around the world. And when your clients include the famous Moulin Rouge in Paris, coincidentally the first South African wine to make its list, it would be prudent to listen ... Since the first vintage was produced in 1991 the blend has evolved to the point where the Riesling component is now dominant at 60%, followed by 20% Viognier, 13% Chardonnay, 5% Sauvignon blanc and 2% Semillon in the 2017 vintage. The result is an unusual white blend from the Cape, where Riesling is virtually unknown as a blending partner, to establish a singular personality to the wine. The name Blanc de Mer translates to ‘white of the sea’, to present a fresh and vibrant wine with a convincing strength and quality finish.

AMSTEL HAS INTRODUCED THE LATEST ADDITION TO ITS RANGE OF BEER WITH THE INTRODUCTION OF A BEER MADE WITH REAL LEMON JUICE – BETTER KNOWN INTERNATIONALLY AS A RADLER.

THIS IS AMSTEL RADLER

BEER CRAFTED WITH REAL LEMON

Radler has its origins in 1922, when a Bavarian named Franz Xaver Kugler built a bar at the end of a popular bike trail in Germany. After some 13 000 cyclists rode into town demanding beer, Kugler realized he didn’t have nearly enough to satisfy the thirsty German cyclists. Panicking, Kugler improvised by mixing his inventory of beer with thousands of bottles of clear lemon soda from his cellar. The beer-lemon concoction was an instant hit, and Radler was born.

Amstel, the Slow Brewed, Extra Matured beer is mixed with real lemon juice in order to create the new tasty and refreshing variant: Amstel Radler with 3% alcohol by volume. The surprisingly refreshing drink combines a 60% ratio of Amstel Lager with a 40% ratio of real lemon. This new offering is crafted to be easy-drinking and bring refreshment to any relaxed social occasion. Amstel Radler brings you a new taste experience! Amstel Radler will be available in the 330ml bottle, as well as the 440ml can. Amstel promotes responsible drinking. Not for sale to persons under 18.

WINE OF ORIGIN: OUTENIQUA Boets Nel is the winemaker behind De Krans wines of Calitzdorp – but he’s also a Cape Wine Master and loves all wine. So when he had the opportunity to acquire some grapes from the Waboomskraal valley in the foothills of the Outeniqua mountains, he snapped them up.

Garden Route Wines is the result. Nel believes grapes grown in this special little spot between Oudsthoorn and George offer something unique because of the Outeniqua mountain influence of high altitude, good rainfall and cool climate.

The Outeniqua terroir allows the grapes to ripen very slowly, resulting in berries of excellent quality and packed with intense flavours – and once ripe, they’re trucked to Calitzdorp, an hour away by road.

The label currently produces and sells the national favourite, Sauvignon Blanc as well as the current “wine of the moment”, being Pinot Noir. With the Outeniqua pass being the gateway to the well-known and popular Garden Route (a stretch of about 300km along the South Coast up to Storms River Mouth), the Garden Route name seemed only fitting. The eye-catching label depicts the Loerie bird, which is indigenous to the area and the perfect tribute to this optimum wine growing region.

FLAVOUR IN SPADES One of the handful of wineries within shouting distance of Cape Town’s CBD, De Grendel has added an unusual new product to its offering: a crisp, appley cider.

Three Spades cider is made from freshlypressed apples from Elgin, the country’s foremost apple growing region, and not from concentrate like many other locally available ciders.

“Apples have been part of our country’s agricultural heritage for as long as growing grapes and wine-making,” said Sir De Villiers Graaff, owner of De Grendel wine farm. “It holds special significance for the Graaff family to honour both traditions.”

With four generations rooted in apples, it is a natural progression for the wine farm to produce a premium cider with the same dedication. The inspiration for the name and logo of the Three Spades cider comes from the family crest, a spade for each son of Sir De Villiers Graaff, fourth Baronet of Cape Town.

Cider-making is experiencing a new golden era, reckons Graaff. “The growing interest in small batch, carefully crafted cider reflects an appreciation for age-old traditions and artisan methods. This is spurred on by consumers seeking out products with provenance and integrity.”

The creation of Three Spades Cider gave De Grendel cellar master Charles Hopkins the chance to combine his expert knowledge of wine-making’s scientific side with the art of cider-making. “I enjoyed my first foray into cider immensely. Initially I wasn’t aware of how similar the process would be to winemaking.”

According to Hopkins the key to a top class cider is the composition of the apple juices. “Our main focus was to capture the purity of the apple, expressing it through a blend of different varieties picked at peak ripeness before being pressed to highlight the unique characteristics of each. The five varieties, each playing its part, are: 30% Golden Delicious, 30% Granny Smith, 20% Pink Lady, 10% Braeburn and 10% Fuji. MAKING ANGELS CRY

Franschhoek wine estate Grande Provence has added a new wine to its Angels Tears range: Le Chocolat Pinotage. The juicy, bright and approachable easy drinking red wine offers abundant chocolate and generous splashes of ripe plums and red berry fruits – but there’s no chocolate in it, winemaker Hagen Viljoen is quick to point out. The delicious cocoa flavour comes from the use of toasted French oak which is used in a skilful and natural way – much to the delight of wine and chocolate lovers everywhere. “The universally appealing aspect of flavour is the reason for the success in this profile of pinotage, making wine more accessible and pleasing to a broader consumer base,” said sales and marketing manager, Ivan Oertle.

GOLD STANDARD

The distinctive bulbous shape of a brandy snifter is designed to be cradled in the palm of the hand while one enjoys the golden nectar.

DECODING COGNAC VS – Very Special: the youngest brandy in the blend has matured for at least two years in cask VSOP – Very Superior Old Pale: the youngest brandy in the blend has matured for at least four years in cask XO – Extra Old: the youngest brandy has been stored for at least six years – but from April 2018 the minimum increased to 10 years. Bureau National Interprofessionnel du Cognac (BNIC)

SOUTH AFRICAN BRANDY IS AMONG THE BEST IN THE WORLD. YEAR AFTER YEAR IT WINS TROPHIES AND MEDALS GALORE IN INTERNATIONAL COMPETITIONS. AND YET WHEN LOCAL CONSUMERS WANT TO MAKE A STATEMENT ABOUT THEIR STATUS OR A DISPLAY OF OBVIOUS WEALTH, IT IS INVARIABLY WITH A BOTTLE OF COGNAC. FIONA MCDONALD LOOKS AT COGNAC AND BRANDY.

Perception is everything. The Chinese place great status on the concept of ‘face’ – the appearance of dignity or prestige that one presents to the outside world. It’s a very nuanced concept and is difficult to fully understand but anyone doing business in China or with Chinese companies knows about ‘face’. According to the World Economic Forum, in 2017 the world’s two largest economies were the United States and China. But we live in difficult times and whenever there is upheaval, economies suffer. When that happens, people revert to gold – even though most countries ditched the gold standard decades ago. The gold standard used to be a monetary system in which a country’s currency was linked to the value of the shiny metal. In historic times of strife, the metal has been traded for freedom, documents, food and shelter. Gold never loses its lustre ...

South Africa is rich in gold. It runs in seams of ore in the rock deep beneath Johannesburg, known colloquially as eGoli – the city of gold. But does South Africa truly appreciate the liquid gold which lies in barrels in warehouses all over the Western Cape?

Walk into any restaurant or club in Gauteng and you’ll see obvious displays of wealth – from the luxurious low-slung wheels parked outside, to the ostentatious timepieces poking out of handmade shirtsleeves ... and on the table will be bottles of Cognac.

But why Cognac when South African brandy is streets ahead in terms of quality? It comes down to prestige and perception and more than a little bit of a hangover of South Africa’s apartheid past which was so closely linked with brandyswilling white oppression.

Cognac is French brandy and is named for the town in central France’s Charente region where it is produced. And because it’s a controlled geographic region it is also why South Africa (or Spain or any other brandy producing country for that matter) cannot call the spirit that is made by precisely the same method, Cognac.

The grape most commonly used in Cognac is Ugni blanc although Colombard and Folle blanche are also used. The white wine which is the ‘raw material’ from which this spirit is distilled is usually acidic and thin – but what would be a negative as a straight wine is ideal for the double distillation that it undergoes to become the golden nectar.

According to French rules, the grapes are specified and must undergo a double distillation in copper pot stills and then time in French oak, again exclusively Limousin or Troncais barrels. The minimum that it can spend in barrel is two years. (See sidebar for explanation of the age designations for Cognac.)

Producers then blend the spirit from different areas and also different ages to make up their house style – a very important task which is entrusted to the maître de chai , or master taster and blender, much like the Scottish whisky producers have. Consistency of style is what consumers want and the master’s taste buds and knowledge of the raw materials stored in their warehouses is what creates that reliability and uniformity.

South African brandy’s history goes back hundreds of years – to Jan van Riebeeck’s time as

VISIT VAN RYN’S Address: Van Ryn Road, Vlottenburg, Stellenbosch Hours: Monday to Friday: 09h00 – 16h30 Saturday: 09h00 – 16h00 Sunday: 11h00 – 15h30 VISIT KWV HOUSE OF FIRE Address: Cecilia St, Southern Paarl, Paarl Hours: Monday to Friday 11h30 – 14h30 Saturday & Sunday: Closed

VISIT OUDE MOLEN Address: Worcester St, Swannie River, Grabouw Hours: Mon to Thurs: 09h00 – 16h00 Fri: 09h00 – 15h00. Saturday & Sunday: Closed

VISIT KLIPDRIFT Address: 4 Voortrekker Avenue, Robertson Hours: Mon to Fri: 09h00 – 17h00. Sat & public holidays: 09h30 – 16h00 Sunday: 10h00 – 15h00 Tours: 10h00, noon & 14h30

governor of the Cape when it was a ‘company town’ belonging to the Dutch East India Company.

Legend has it that on each voyage around the feared Cape of Storms, the first sailor to spot land was rewarded with a tot of brandy. And with sailors being a somewhat superstitious lot, fearing the wrath of sea serpents and dragons lurking in Davy Jones’ locker, whatever any ship did to arrive at its destination safely was copied – so vessels adopted the brandy reward system. In the early days of the settlement brandy was imported from the Netherlands – and initially reserved for the enjoyment of the Dutch East India Company’s officials. But Cornelis Mostert, a Free Burgher, procured the rights to buy brandy from non-Company vessels and soon had a thriving little business supplying a thirsty market!

Historic records reflect that the first distillation of local – South African – brandy took place aboard the Dutch ship ‘De Pijl’ while anchored in Table Bay as far back as 1672. As Dr Winnie Bowman wrote in her piece for Cheers in 2015: “An assistant cook, equipped with a ‘proper’ potstill started with two leaguers (about 1 164 litres) of Cape wine. He double distilled the wine into three ankers (about 130 litres) of brandy. An anker was a

Mature brandy spirit – and Cognac – develops its signature golden hue from time spent ageing in oak barrels.

common size cask on sailing ships and contained roughly 40 litres. It mattered little to the locals that this brandy was only raw spirit – not having been matured in barrel. The brandy was in great demand by the locals and sold out very rapidly.” In the 1800s the British occupied the Cape – and due to their various restrictions and laws, many disaffected Afrikaners hitched up their ox wagons and trekked northwards, away from the yoke of oppression. And on every wagon was a small wooden vat of ‘brandewyn’ as it was recognised as useful medicine, particularly when combined with local herbs. “The discovery of diamonds at Kimberly and gold in the then Transvaal really brought about the first production of local brandy on a commercial scale,” Bowman wrote. “With the KWV taking control of all brandy production in 1924, prices were fixed and brandy production was then centralized. With the use of the most modern methods of distillation, South African brandy quality was taken to new heights. Good or bad, many brandy distillers today credit the KWV for setting precise brandy production guidelines based on those of Cognac, France.”

Unlike France, South Africa doesn’t have a specific area

where brandy is produced. It’s made wherever grapes are grown. And while Ugni blanc grapes are planted in South Africa, Colombard and Chenin Blanc are more commonly used.

Brandy’s fortunes have waxed and waned through the decades and while the past few years have been tough, the quality has never wavered as the gold medals and trophies attest. The good news is that sales have picked up in the last 12 months and it looks as though brandy is once again on an upward trend.

Brandy accounted for 40 million litres of spirit consumed every year at the turn of the century – but dropped to just over 30 million litres by 2015 – affected by the growth in whisky’s popularity. In the past two years it has rebounded and sales figures for 2017 put the volume at 32 million litres – and climbing.

International experts appreciate South Africa’s liquid gold, praising it for the quality of its fruit, its richness and velvety smooth texture. Think about the national pride, prestige and ‘face’ you could claim the next time you are in the market for a bottle of golden spirit.

ROLL OF HONOUR INTERNATIONAL SPIRITS CHALLENGE BRANDY TROPHY: 2017 Oude Meester 18 YO 2016 KWV 15 YO 2015 KWV 20 YO 2014 Van Ryn’s 15 YO

INTERNATIONAL WINE & SPIRIT COMPETITION (IWSC) WORLDWIDE BRANDY TROPHY: 2017 KWV 15 YO 2016 Van Ryn’s 12 YO 2015 Van Ryn’s 12 YO 2014 KWV 12 YO 2012 Van Ryn’s 12 YO 2011 Van Ryn’s 20 YO