14 minute read
FROTHY FERMENT
FANTASTIC FUNGUS
HUMANKIND HAS BEEN WALKING HAND IN HAND WITH SACCHAROMYCES CEREVISIAE SINCE THE FIRST BEER AND BREAD WAS MADE, BERNARD MOCKE WRITES. THIS MUTUALITY BETWEEN MAN AND MICRO-ORGANISM HAS EVOLVED OVER 5 000 YEARS AND PAVED THE WAY FOR CRAFT BREWERS, WINEMAKERS AND A VARIETY OF DISTILLERS TO COME UP WITH THE VAST ARRAY OF DELICIOUS AND INTERESTING ALCOHOLIC BEVERAGES AVAILABLE TODAY.
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Fungus … fantastic? If the title seems a little confusing, consider that all yeast is essentially classifi ed as fungus. And as far as the fantastic part is concerned, it really is quite fantastic. Saccharomyces cerevisiae, also known as baker’s yeast or brewer’s yeast, is the “go to” guy when it comes to baking bread and brewing beer, to name just two handy things the various strains are capable of. In the right hands and with the proper ingredients wine, whisky, brandy, gin, rum, tequila, vodka and numerous other beverages can be made.
THE GIFT OF FERMENTATION (AND ALCOHOL) Seeing that yeast (and in some instances selected lactic acid bacteria) is the only living organism used during winemaking, one could easily liken the act of fermentation to one huge house party: it is loud, there are a lot of participants and alcohol is involved. The primary goal of fermentation is of course the production of alcohol from sugars such as glucose and fructose. And this is something commercial yeast starter cultures are very good at.
Charles Hopkins, De Grendel Wines cellar master, says that modern day winemaking conditions are becoming increasingly harsh, yet the chosen yeast for a specifi c fermentation still has to perform. Or simply put, convert pretty much all the fermentable sugars to alcohol. “Commercial yeast strains are developed for extreme winemaking conditions and are well adapted to perform well under high sugar concentrations and low
fermentation temperatures. Remember that wild yeasts are typically not adapted to these conditions and can fall short during fermentation. It is about trust and confi dence and a winemaker shouldn’t have to worry if a yeast will be able to ferment a must to dryness, which is the main role of any wine yeast.”
A robust fermentation that kicks off without any delay and fi nishes the job without any off -aroma production is not only a requirement during brewing, but also a thing of beauty, says Eric van Heerden, owner and brewer at Triggerfi sh Brewing. “Remember that during fermentation the yeast uses nutrients and oxygen while producing alcohol,” he says. “This ensures dominance of the fermenting yeast. To me there is no more beautiful sight than a strong fermentation with lots of foam and beautiful fruity and fl oral aromas when I come into the brewery in the morning.” Unfortunately fermentation problems during brewing are a reality and include contamination (when an unwanted micro-organism is present during fermentation, often causing off -aromas) and sluggish (slow) or stuck fermentations where the desired alcohol concentration is not achieved.
AN AROMATIC AFFAIR The secondary goal of fermentation is the production of a desirable aroma profi le, whether it be for wine, beer or a distilled beverage. Smell is absolutely crucial to the enjoyment and appreciation of your drink of choice.
“There is a good reason that the brewing of ale is more popular for smaller craft breweries,” Van Heerden says. “Ale is fermented at 18 - 25°C and lager at 9 - 12°C, which has signifi cant implications. Lager takes longer to produce and the cost of the
RIGHT:The chemical formula for the fermentation of alcohol – but it still brings to mind William Shakespeare’s line: “Bubble,bubble, toil and trouble...”
the gift of fermentation
C6 H 12 O 6 → 2 C 2 H 5 OH + 2 CO
lower temperatures (during fermentation as well as laagering) makes ale a better proposition. But there is also the aroma aspect – there is a wider range of aromas possible with ale and then there are also much more ale yeast strains available, each one with its unique aroma signature. For instance, by modulating Weiss beer fermentation temperature the brewer can strongly infl uence the production of clove and banana aromas. At 18°C clove aromas are favoured and at 22°C banana aromas become prominent. Pretty much all Weiss beer aroma comes from yeast and the savvy brewer will use this knowledge to his benefi t.
“Our Big Five beers are proof that really good aromas and strong fermentations resulting in beers with an alcohol of more than 10% are possible. Our Big Five are the Stonefi sh (English Barley wine, alcohol 10.6%), Black Marlin (Russian Imperial Stout, alcohol 10%), Crazy Diamond (Belgian Strong Dark Ale, alcohol 13.2%), Monster Fish (Vanilla Bourbon, alcohol 11.2%) and Apocalypse (Wee Heavy, alcohol 10%).” Craft rum sales is on the verge of taking off in South Africa and yeast can make the diff erence between an excellent rum and a mediocre one. “Rum is made from molasses, sugar, water and yeast,” Van Heerden says. “Switching from a distilling yeast to a wine yeast has made all the diff erence. The two rums we make, the Floating Dutchman White Cape Rum and the Floating Dutchman Cape Rum, now sport a softer taste, a more rum-like aroma and even the alcohol perception is less pronounced.”
Hopkins says that the choice of yeast strain also plays an important role during winemaking, particularly for varieties such as Sauvignon Blanc. “While these yeast strains can infl uence the production of a certain style of Sauvignon Blanc, terroir ultimately determines the fi nal outcome. For red wine the eff ect of yeast on aroma is less pronounced due to the presence of natural grape tannins and very often oak tannins and aroma compounds due to barrel ageing.” THE CURIOUS CASE OF BRETT Ostensibly there is no other yeast so controversial in winemaking as Brettanomyces bruxellensis, also colloquially referred to as Brett. While some winemakers believe that small quantities of this yeast in wine are desirable, others see it as a contaminant and a spoilage yeast and thus, yeast non grata.
Under specifi c conditions in wine Brett can produce off -odours reminiscent of horse sweat, barnyard and medicine or even Elastoplast – defi nitely not aromas you want in your delicate Pinot noir. But in certain beer styles Brett’s skunky shenanigans are highly sought after, says Van Heerden. “Brett is used for the brewing of Belgian sour beer and gives a very complex character. I have a residential colony of Brett in some barrels and they’ve been around since 2012 when our fi rst Russian Imperial Stout, the Black Marlin, was brewed.”
Yeast has been part and parcel of fermentation for centuries and our relationship with these industrious little fellows will likely continue for as long as humans continue enjoying alcoholic beverages – which is hopefully for a very long time still.
ABOVE: Whether it be whisky, beer, wine or cider, yeast is the common ingredient kick starting the process.
BROADENING HORIZONS
FOR DECADES, THE BREEDE RIVER VALLEY HAS SIMPLY (BUT WRONGLY!) BEEN VIEWED AS THE SOURCE OF HUGE VOLUMES OF GRAPES FOR BULK WINE DESTINED FOR BAG-INBOX OR OWN LABEL EXPORTS FOR UK SUPERMARKETS – OR SOMEWHERE LOCALS COULD STOCK UP ON CHEAP WINE. AS FIONA MCDONALD WRITES, THIS IS NO LONGER THE CASE.
TOP: The wide alluvial plain created by the Breede River is home to some of the largest plantings of Chenin Blanc in South Africa.
Signs. They’re everywhere. Directional signs and road names, arrows, leaves turning brown and falling from the trees, birds flying in formation, heading north for winter – or that stray grey hair that is joined by another ... and another signalling the advancement of the years and inevitable ageing. Our forefathers would have considered a solar or lunar eclipse a sign from the gods that the end of the world was nigh. So jaws dropping at the announcement of a coveted 5 Star rating in the annual Platter Guide for a wine from the Breedekloof was a sign too. A sign of things changing “anderkant die berg”.
Actually, that’s wrong: wines from the Breedekloof had won 5 Stars before – but they were for sweet wines, muscadel, jerepigo or noble late harvests. But for a dry wine – and a Chenin Blanc nogal? That was in 2014 and the wine was the Carl Everson Chenin Blanc 2013 from Opstal Estate made by a young, but very determined Attie Louw, the seventh generation winemaker to farm these broad, vineyards in the beautiful Slanghoek valley.
Louw was throwing down a marker and in case his brothers and sisters in South African wine hadn’t heeded his challenge, that 2013 vintage was followed by another 5 Star for the 2015, and joined by a 5 Star Semillon, The Barber 2015, only the third time it had been bottled. By the time the 2019 Platter Guide was published, Opstal Estate was not the only Breedekloof winery getting the ‘red ink’ treatment. *
Olifantsberg family vineyards had its Shiraz-based blend Silhouette written up in red for the 2015 achieving a 4½ Star while the previous 2014 rated the full-house 5 Stars. A maiden Grenache Blanc 2017 scored 4½, as did its 2017 Blanc, an interesting white blend of Roussanne, Grenache Blanc and Chenin Blanc.
Like the annoying advert used to state: “but that’s not all!”... Stofberg Family Vineyards joined the party too by achieving 4½ Stars for the 2017 Pinot Blanc as well as the 2017 Israel Chardonnay.**
Bergsig also chalked up 4½ Stars for its Icarus white blend and three 4 Stars for its Tant Anna Chardonnay, Chenin Blanc Reserve and Icarus red blend. Merwida got three 4 Stars, Family Reserve Chenin Blanc, Barbera and Sauvignon Blanc, while
Daschbosch got two – for its Cape Blend and Steen.
But there is more to life than Platter ratings – and this is where the Breedekloof producers are maxing out their natural bounty. It’s easy to see from the above that Chenin Blanc does well in these broad alluvial plains surrounded by towering craggy peaks. The beauty of the area is arresting with vistas that stretch for miles. Exiting the
Huguenot tunnel past Paarl while driving on the N1 to Johannesburg reveals the rocky sides of the Du Toitskloof mountains but also the acres of vineyards around Rawsonville and Worcester.
The names are familiar: Du Toitskloof, Du Preez, Goudini, Merwida, Deetlefs, Kirabo, Daschbosch – and if you turn left towards the Slanghoek valley there is Badsberg, Slanghoek, Jason’s
TOP: Wine in pellet form... fr eshly-picked healthy grapes being tipped into bins for transport to the cellars and wineries of the Breedekloof. BOTTOM: Diversity on display – fr om sparkling wine to red and awardwinning Chenin Blanc, there is something to suit all tastes and budgets.
Hill, Seven Oaks, Opstal, Breëland, Mountain Oaks, Botha, Bergsig, Lateganskop, Waboomsrivier and Mountain Ridge.
It’s an area mountain bikers and hikers love, a fantastic place for a weekend or holiday getaway because of the Breede river for rafting and paddling, hot springs at Goudini, great trout fi shing in the Holsloot and Molenaars river near Rawsonville – and it’s long been the secret of wine lovers hunting a bargain.
For decades their wines were cheap, be it to locals road tripping on a weekend or British, Dutch, German or Belgian supermarket buyers. The only thing which separated the one group from the other was the volume of wine purchased. A six or 12-bottle case versus 50 000 or 100 000-litre lots for export abroad and bottling under the buyers-own-brand label. But the young generation have taken over the reins – like Attie Louw and Mariëtte StofbergCoetzee and (sixth generation) Ivy du Toit of Jason’s Hill – and are doing things diff erently.
The Breedekloof boasts the biggest plantings of Chenin Blanc in the country so it makes perfect sense to leverage that. This is a new generation of winemakers
who are keen to mix it up with their compatriots the other side of the mountains, in Stellenbosch, Franschhoek, Elgin and Paarl. They don’t want the area to be known for cheap and cheerful wines – although they acknowledge there is a place for that ... Their international aspirations (and achievements!) are growing too with more and more of them attracting attention from world wine critics like Tim Atkin. What’s made the diff erence for them? Taking grapes such as Chenin Blanc seriously, identifying the best parcels of grapes or vineyard, ripening them a tad longer on the vine. Doing barrel fermentations or extended oak maturation. Investing in good oak barrels and even some newfangled kit like concrete eggs or clay amphora. Doing things their parents would not have done. Experimenting with overlooked
TOP: Winemaker Elizma Visser and her hard working Olifantsberg team with their ‘stok-by-paaltjie’ vineyard.
grapes like Grenache Blanc, Pinot Blanc or Semillon – and adopting diff erent winemaking techniques like natural or spontaneous ferments, doing skin contact on white wines ... but never losing sight of the human element. This is a place where the winemakers are like a band of brothers and sisters, united in a single vision of uplifting the area’s profi le as well as its people and prices.
The Breedekloof and its wineries are worthy of more than just a glance as cars whizz past, heading up the N1. Heed the advice to slow down, take the turn-off and enjoy a few days in the valley, chilling, cycling, walking, enjoying old-fashioned hospitality with good food and increasingly impressive and acclaimed wines. THE FIRST CHAPTER The Israel Chardonnay has a special story behind it. It’s more than “just one barrel” of Chardonnay. It’s inextricably linked with a tale of hope, upliftment and advancement beyond a wildest dream. Israel Delport left school at 16 to start as a general farm worker. Like Attie Louw of Opstal, Mariëtte Stofberg-Coetzee is the third generation to grow grapes and make wine on the family property – and she recognised a man who was keener and more interested than his peers. She fed his curiosity by enrolling him in courses at Elsenburg agricultural college in Stellenbosch. “As a tractor driver and vineyard worker,” Israel said, “I always wondered what happened to the grapes after they were delivered to the cellar. It fascinated me. I eventually decided to ask Mariëtte whether I could help in the cellar.” And that was when his world changed. He was selected as one of 10 students to participate in an exchange programme to Burgundy in France. For someone who had never been further than Beaufort West, France was seriously unknown territory! Israel spent a six week internship at Domaine des Terres de Velle – a small boutique winery which left a lasting impression. His goal on returning to the Breedekloof was to make a Burgundianstyle wine. Under Mariëtte’s watchful eye, he made a single barrel of Chardonnay which not only got 4½ Stars from the Platter tasting team but was also rated 91 points by eminent international critic, Tim Atkin in his 2018 South Africa Wine Report, describing it as having “flavours of citrus and crème fraiche, with fine lees and understated oak”. Just 250 bottles of the wine were labelled, selling for R500 each – all proceeds going to the former tractor driver. Israel’s was the first Chardonnay made at Stofberg but won’t be the last, even though the farm’s focus is on Chenin Blanc and niche varieties. “The story of Israel’s Chardonnay is incredibly inspiring,” said Mariëtte, “but this is only the first chapter. Israel has a bullish will to succeed, and this is the first step in what I hope becomes a very successful business venture for him.” He’s now the assistant winemaker at Stofberg ...
RED INK *Red ink in the Platter Guide is a signal of wines worth seeking out because they are a cut above the rest, rating higher – and not just once off , but on the basis of consistently good ratings over a number of years.
