TASTING: Brandy

REVIVAL OF A NATIONAL TREASURE

SOUTH AFRICAN BRANDY HAS HAD A TOUGH TIME OVER THE PAST DECADE. SALES DECLINED DRAMATICALLY BUT HAVE TURNED AROUND WITH THE GRAPH ON AN UPWARD CURVE, SHOWING 20% YEAR-ON-YEAR GROWTH. CHEERS MAGAZINE’S INFORMAL TASTING SHOWS WHY CONSUMERS ARE FALLING IN LOVE AGAIN.

TASTING PA NEL:DR WINNIE B OWMA N CWM, E M I L E J O U B E R T , S H AY N E D OW L I N G , FIONA MCDONALD

It all began with some trepidation – and ended with glowing praise... and a bit of a whinge!

“Locals don’t realise just how good South African brandy is – especially at the entry level,” said brandy expert, Cape Wine Master and panel wrangler Dr Winnie Bowman once the tasting was done. (That was her gentle whinge!)

She judges on international panels and bemoans the overall quality of brandy from other nations. “Around 80 to 90% of the entry level brandies we assess at overseas competitions don’t measure up to the average standard of any brandy you could buy off the shelf locally. South African brandy is good, people!”

The country’s best examples from Distell and the KWV regularly shoot the lights out at international competitions but consumers are possibly not aware of how this aff ects the less premium products on TOPS at SPAR shelves nationwide. Yes, the best barrels are set aside for these ultra-premium bottlings but it means that what trickles down and is blended into the larger volume labels raises

the average standard overall. The fi rst point to be made is that these humble brandies which are so often maligned as mere companions to cola for a weekend football or rugby match all contain a minimum of 30% potstilled brandy and will all have been aged for a minimum of three years in oak barrels. That’s a big investment on the part of producers in time and money. “It upsets me that we don’t celebrate these products more!” Dr Bowman said. Having tasted through the lineup all agreed that this had been a really pleasant and worthwhile experience – something which had not been anticipated.

“I think we all approached this with a bit of scepticism because of the brands lined up in front of us,” Fiona said, “but I was genuinely pleasantly surprised at the overall quality of all of them.”

Fellow taster Emile Joubert, a columnist for CHEERS, knows brandy well having spent time marketing the product with the Brandy Foundation. He said producers should never underestimate how well consumers know their particular favourite. “I’m going back 10 years or more but I remember the Brandy Foundation would get irate telephone calls from guys in the Eastern Cape saying that this Olof Bergh or Oude Meester wasn’t up to scratch. And when the boffi ns tracked back they’d fi nd that a mistake had been made in the blending – and the customer was right!” Joining Joubert, Bowman and Fiona McDonald in the assessment was CHEERS publisher Shayne Dowling. He noted how smooth textured the various bottles tasted were. “They drink incredibly well on their own and I’d happily have any of these neat with just a block of ice.”

One of the most interesting parts of the discussion centred around the look and feel of the packaging – not so much the labels as the bottle shapes and the immediate perceptions associated with them. Two products stood out because they had a “classy” appearance while another suff ered from being in a fl at “nip” style bottle. “It would be interesting to hear the market research behind the decision to go that route,” Shayne said.

So the nett result is that consumers need not feel any cultural cringe or twinges of embarrassment when stocking up on a bottle of brannas at the weekend. These examples are all winners! (And also taste really lekker with cola – or ginger ale ... and rugby or soccer.)

PANEL CHOICE

RICHELIEU > “Remove the string at your peril!” Emile said it had been tried in the past and the market protested loudly. Winnie said it was liking greeting an old

friend. Complex, smooth, familiar with lovely ripe peach fruit, citrus peel and marmalade and even a hint of rum n raisin too. Balanced and rich. “I’d drink this on its own,” said Shayne. loudly. Winnie said it was liking greeting an old

friend. Complex, smooth, familiar with lovely ripe peach fruit, citrus peel and marmalade and even a hint of rum n raisin too. Balanced and rich. “I’d drink this on its own,” said Shayne.

EDITOR’S CHOICE

< KWV 5 YEAR OLD “Gorgeous fl avour!” was Winnie’s opinion. Smooth, silky, complex and understated with refi ned dried fruit, good harmony and length. Conversely Shayne found it almost too refi ned and elegant. “I prefer a bit more edginess,” he said. Harmonious and well crafted Emile stated.

< MELLOW WOOD 5 YEAR OLD Rich, raisined and with oodles of appeal, along with a shy smokiness and caramel. Both Fiona and Shayne noted a delicate fl orality and ‘lucky packet sweetie’ nuance on the nose. Subtle and charming Winnie said. Appropriately mellow and woody in character. on the nose. Subtle and charming Winnie said. Appropriately mellow

WELLINGTON VO > Spirit was noticeable with a raisined/fruity note and a lingering sensation of ripe sweetness. “In a brandy context – satisfying,” said Emile.

< OUDE MOLEN 100 RESERVE Tasty with spice highlights and even a touch of dried herbs, Fiona found. Good caramel fl avour with a strong dry oak element. The packaging of this bottle came in for special mention with the panel liking its quality and feel.

OUDE MEESTER > Choc-dipped fruits, spice and white pepper with bold apricot and even a note of crème brûlée picked up on this fl avour packed mouthful. Touch of leather with a warm spirit note too. And positive comments about the packaging too.

“They drink incredibly well on their own and I’d happily have any of these neat.”

< VICEROY 5 YEAR OLD Rounded, smooth, sun-dried apricot and peach fl avours with a touch of pear drop fruitiness Winnie said. Shayne liked its complexity and Fiona noted its burnished brass and leathery appeal. Flat bottle shape discussed.

KLIPDRIFT > Appealing maple syrup fl avour with waxy caramel and buttery richness on the palate. While Emile found it a touch sweet he appreciated its spicy rounded fullness and length. “Very satisfying and will work well with a mixer.”