Britain 2019 Guide

ATTRACTIONS | CULTURE | HISTORY | HERITAGE | PLACES TO STAY

2019 GUIDE

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TALES OF THE TOWER A day in the life of a Beefeater

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y Stately SPLENDOUR Insider guide to Britain’s finest manors, palaces and castles

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WELCOME Welcome to the BRITAIN 2019 Guide, our annual look at the very best that the country has to offer, from must-visit heritage sites to off-the-beaten track destinations, and from London restaurants with skyline views to castles you can actually stay in.

We’ve profiled our favourite stately homes; cherry-picked the best of the heritage rail routes; and visited the country’s most beautiful corners, from Shakespeare’s old stomping ground to Scotland’s magical Inner Hebrides. With all this and more, you're sure to find plenty of inspiration for your next trip. Enjoy!

CONTENTS 06 STATELY SPLENDOUR

Whatever your idea of the perfect historic house, you’ll find it in these pages. We peek through the (gilded) keyhole at 20 of the country’s finest manors, palaces and estates

20 TIMELESS TRAVEL Natasha Foges, Editor www.britain-magazine.com

Go back to the golden age of steam and let yourself be spirited away to some of Britain’s most beautiful destinations aboard a vintage train BRITAIN | THE 2019 GUIDE

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50 SOUTHEAST ENGLAND

From its ancient roots to its modern renaissance, there’s more to English winemaking than you might expect

62 HEART OF ENGLAND

We travel along the River Avon, which gathers along its banks beguiling stories of the nation’s greatest bard

74 EAST OF ENGLAND

With its big skies, old-world villages and beautiful beaches, the Suffolk coast never fails to cast a spell

2019 GUIDE

From the publishers of

www.britain-magazine.com The BRITAIN 2019 Guide is published by the makers of BRITAIN magazine. BRITAIN is the official magazine of VisitBritain, the national tourism agency. BRITAIN is published by The Chelsea Magazine Company Ltd, Jubilee House, 2 Jubilee Place, London SW3 3TQ Tel: 020 7349 3700 Fax: 020 7901 3701 Email: info@britain-magazine.com Editor Natasha Foges Deputy Editor Zara Gaspar Art Editor Clare White Head of Market James Davis Senior Account Manager Valder Gates Senior Sales Executive Paul Beckham Senior Sales Executive Jamie Smith

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Managing Director Paul Dobson Deputy Managing Director Steve Ross Publisher Steve Pill Chief Financial Officer Vicki Gavin Director of Media James Dobson Senior Marketing Executive Drew Brown For VisitBritain Ronan Francis Printed in England by William Gibbons Ltd. Production All Points Media

28 LONDON

Meet the Tower of London’s Chief Yeoman Warder and find out how a Beefeater spends his day

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40 SOUTHWEST ENGLAND

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Explore Bath’s magnificent Roman baths, which set the scene for the city’s heyday as a Georgian spa resort

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86 NORTHERN ENGLAND

Following in the footsteps of William Wordsworth, we explore the poet’s beloved Lake District

96 WALES

Discover the Vale of Glamorgan, a place of stunning scenery, fascinating history and a warm Welsh welcome

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UK and Rest of World: Seymour, 2 East Poultry Avenue, London EC1A 9PT, England Tel: +44 (0) 20 7429 4000 The Britain 2019 Guide ISSN 1757-9732 (USPS 004-335) is published by The Chelsea Magazine Company, Jubilee House, 2 Jubilee Place, London SW3 3TQ , UK Publications Mail Agreement Number 41599077, 1415 Janette Ave, Windsor, ON N8X 1Z1. Canadian GST Registered Number 834045627 RT0001 © The Chelsea Magazine Company Ltd., 2019. All rights reserved.

Text and pictures are copyright restricted and must not be reproduced without permission of the publishers The information contained in the Britain 2019 Guide has been published in good faith and every effort has been made to ensure its accuracy.

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The opinions expressed by contributors to the Britain 2019 Guide are not necessarily those of the publisher.

106 SCOTLAND

The Inner Hebrides harbour wild landscapes, an array of wildlife and some world-class whisky distilleries

116 NORTHERN IRELAND

We visit the lavishly restored Hillsborough Castle, HM The Queen’s official Northern Ireland residence

127 FOOD AND DRINK SPECIAL

Britain’s foodie hotspots and experiences not to miss.

Plus, London’s restaurants with landmark views

138 STAY IN A CASTLE

Be a king or queen for the night with a stay in a historic British castle

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146 BRITISH DAYS OUT

COMPANY

Use our regional directory to plan your next trip

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STATELY HOMES

STATELY SPLENDOUR Whatever your idea of the perfect historic house – imposing architecture, beautiful interiors or glorious gardens – you’ll find it in these pages. We peek through the (gilded) keyhole at 20 of the country’s finest manors, palaces and estates WORDS NATASHA FOGES

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STATELY HOMES The Atlas Fountain at Castle Howard

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STATELY HOMES

Highclere Castle, Berkshire

With the new Downton Abbey movie finally due to hit our screens in September, there’s never been a better time for a visit to ‘the Real Downton’, Highclere Castle.

Not that we need an excuse: this beautiful ancestral home is one of Britain’s finest. It has been the family seat of the Earls of Carnarvon since 1679, though its history stretches back centuries further.

In 749 an Anglo-Saxon King granted the estate to the Bishops of Winchester, who built a stately medieval palace on the parkland here. Various rebuildings and developments later (including the landscaping of the grounds by Capability Brown), in 1842 it was transformed by Sir Charles Barry, architect of the Houses of Parliament, into the Italianate gem you can admire today.

The twists and turns in the history of the house and its occupants could rival a Downton Abbey plotline. In one dramatic episode, the 5th Earl of Carnarvon discovered Tutankhamen’s Tomb with his friend and associate Howard Carter. His death soon afterwards led to the story of the ‘Curse of Tutankhamen’, though an infected mosquito bite is the likelier cause. Some of the Earl’s discoveries can be seen in the Antiquities Room.

You can also wander the State Rooms for a glimpse of life above stairs. Highlights include the Saloon with its gilt leather wall hangings; the Drawing Room, decorated in watery green silk, and the sunny Music Room, hung with 16th-century Italian embroideries.

Don’t miss Art and architecture week, May 12-18 www.highclerecastle.co.uk

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STATELY HOMES

Lyme Park, Cheshire

You might recognise Lyme – or rather, its lake – from the starring role it played in the 1995 BBC adaptation of Pride and Prejudice, when Colin Firth as Darcy emerged from the lake and sent a million hearts fluttering. Lyme’s glorious Italianate facade and lavish Regency interiors tend to have the same effect.

Visitors can dress up in period costume, take a peek at Truelove the butler’s rooms, and browse in the library, where the Lyme Missal prayer book is conserved. Printed by William Caxton in 1487, it is the National Trust’s most precious printed book. Outside, a medieval herd of red deer roam the estate, nestled on the edge of the Peak District.

Don’t miss Pemberley Walk, monthly www.nationaltrust.org.uk/lyme

Hatfield House, Hertfordshire

PHOTOS: © PETER JORDAN/AGE FOTOSTOCK/ALAMY/MATTHEW ANTROBUS/NATIONAL TRUST IMAGES

Some of our favourite stately homes are those still occupied by the same family that have been in place for centuries. Beautiful Hatfield House is a prime example: home to the 7th Marquess and Marchioness of Salisbury, it was built in 1611 by Robert Cecil, 1st Earl of Salisbury and trusted advisor to Elizabeth I. Cecil used materials from the Old Palace, built in 1485 by the Bishop of Ely – some of which can still be seen today – to build the magnificent Jacobean house you see today.

Much of Hatfield’s fascination comes from the fact that Henry VIII purchased it for his children, Mary, Edward and Elizabeth, to use as a nursery. In 1558 a young Princess Elizabeth was resting under an oak tree in the grounds when she learned of her accession to the throne of England. Inside, seek out the Rainbow Portrait, an atypically vibrant Tudor portrait of steely-eyed Queen Elizabeth marvellously clad in a coppery cloak, and holding a rainbow. An inscription reads, “Non sine sola iris” (No rainbow without the sun) – portraying Elizabeth as a bringer of peace after stormy political times.

Don’t miss Chamber Music Festival, September 26-29 www.hatfield-house.co.uk www.britain-magazine.com

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STATELY HOMES

Mount Stewart, County Down

Neoclassical Mount Stewart has been home to one of Northern Ireland’s most powerful families, the Marquesses of Londonderry, for 250 years. Edith, Lady Londonderry – an author, designer and legendary hostess – made Mount Stewart home in 1921, filling it with art and antiques and planting its exceptional gardens. Now in the care of the National Trust, the house has been beautifully restored and is still dotted with family memorabilia and treasures.

Mount Stewart was only one of the family’s houses but was a firm favourite with Edith. As she wrote to her husband Charles, “This is the most divine house, why do we live anywhere else!”

Don’t miss Birdwatching tours in the gardens, monthly www.nationaltrust.org.uk/mount-stewart

Another Pemberley stand-in that featured in the TV adaptation of Pride and Prejudice, Chatsworth’s creamy stone facade made an appropriately grand setting as Darcy’s ancestral home. Surrounded by extensive parkland and backed by the craggy wooded hills of the Peak District, it holds many priceless treasures.

Chatsworth has been home to the Cavendish family since 1549, but many of its grand rooms are open to the public. Be dazzled by the Painted Hall, the grandest room built by the 1st Duke; the Great Dining Room, dripping with gilt and swagged curtains; and the State Apartments, lavishly decorated in preparation for a visit from King William III and Queen Mary II that never actually took place.

Don’t miss RHS Chatsworth Flower Show, 5-9 June www.chatsworth.org

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PHOTOS: © ANDREW BUTLER/JOHN HAMMOND/NATIONAL TRUST IMAGES

Chatsworth House, Derbyshire

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Ham House, London

Conceived as a family home rather than a statement of wealth, Tyntesfield has an intimate, warm feel. William Gibbs bought Tyntes Place for his family in 1844 and remodelled what was then a simple Regency house into the stunning Victorian Gothic Revival house that you see today. It’s home to over 60,000 objects, from ornate furnishings and precious paintings to the evocative remnants of four generations of domestic life, from ice skates to picnic sets.

Sitting on the banks of the River Thames in Richmond, Ham House is a 17th-century treasure, full of fine paintings, furniture and textiles. Built in 1610, it was remodelled by the Duke and Duchess of Lauderdale in the 1670s. Richly transformed to impress London Society, it was one of the country’s grandest Stuart houses. The interiors boast baroque ceiling murals by Antonio Verrio, rare damask hangings and a gilded staircase. Among the collections, you can see the Duchess’s own teapot, one of the earliest to arrive in Britain: ever fashionable, she was quick to adopt the new tea-drinking trend.

Keep an eye out for unusual happenings – Ham is thought to be one of the most haunted houses in Britain.

Some visitors even report catching a waft of the Duke’s pipe tobacco in the Dining Room.

Don’t miss Wonders of the Walled Garden workshops, July-August www.nationaltrust.org.uk/tyntesfield

Don’t miss Garden history tours, weekends until November www.nationaltrust.org.uk/ham-house-and-garden

Tyntesfield, Somerset

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STATELY HOMES

The scale of Castle Howard, the residence of the Howard family for 300 years, is quite mind-boggling: with 145 rooms, it is one of England’s biggest stately homes. The house took over 100 years to construct, spanning the lifetimes of three Earls. The original architect Vanbrugh’s vision of a house of two identical wings capped with a central dome did not quite come to fruition: changing tastes over the centuries meant that east wing was built in flamboyant baroque style, while the later west wing is all restrained Palladian elegance. The result, though, is nothing short of spectacular.

A fire devastated much of the building in 1940 and would have caused even more extensive damage but for the efforts of some quick-thinking schoolgirl evacuees, who were able to salvage some of the house’s priceless contents. The filming of Evelyn Waugh’s Brideshead Revisited here in 1981 helped pay for much-needed restoration works, though a section of the building remains a shell.

Don’t miss Autumn Harvest & Flower festival, 26-29 September www.castlehoward.co.uk

This handsome Tudor manor house lay neglected until the 1920s, when one Colonel Lyle visited and, moved by its sorry condition, bought it and painstakingly restored it with historic salvaged fireplaces, staircases and panelling, collected from derelict manors all over the country. The National Trust have kept it without furniture, so that you can appreciate the beauty of its features and the passion that went into its restoration. After wandering the atmospheric rooms, you can explore the beautiful gardens, planted after consultation with the famous garden designer Gertrude Jekyll.

Don’t miss Jazz on the Lawn, 15-16 June www.nationaltrust.org.uk/barrington-court

Blickling Hall, Norfolk

This magnificent Jacobean pile stands on the site of the home of the Boleyn family, where it is believed Anne Boleyn was born. No documentation exists to back this up, but legend has it that one of the three ghosts that patrol the house is that of Henry VIII’s second wife, who is said to appear every year on 19 May, the date of her execution, bearing her severed head.

Reliefs of Anne and her daughter, Queen Elizabeth I, can be seen on the staircase of the Great Hall. The Long Gallery is also worth seeking out. It holds the National Trust’s most important book collection, including the first complete Bible to be printed in English, and first editions of Jane Austen’s Sense and Sensibility, Pride and Prejudice and Emma.

PHOTOS: © DAVID SELLMAN/NATIONAL TRUST IMAGES/PAUL TOMKINS/VISITSCOTLAND/DIANA JARVIS/MARKETING LANCASHIRE/ VISITENGLAND/THE ROYAL COLLECTION. © HER MAJESTY QUEEN ELIZABETH II/ ENGLISH HERITAGE

Barrington Court, Somerset

Don’t miss A Walk in the Park, Sundays year-round www.nationaltrust.org.uk/blickling-estate

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PHOTOS: © JOE CORNISH/JIM HOLDEN/ANDREW BUTLER/NATIONAL TRUST IMAGES

Castle Howard, North Yorkshire

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STATELY HOMES

Osborne House, Isle of Wight

PHOTOS: © KENNY LAM/VISITSCOTLAND/HUGH ROONEY/WWW.ROBERTHARDING.COM/ NICK DAUTLICH/NATIONAL TRUST IMAGES

“It is impossible to imagine a prettier spot,” said Queen Victoria of her palatial holiday home on the Isle of Wight, and it’s hard to disagree. 2019 marks the 200th anniversary of Queen Victoria’s birth, and with a packed programme of celebratory events, it’s the perfect time to plan a visit.

Built specially for Victoria and Albert, the house reflects their style and passions. The sumptuous State Rooms, designed to impress the great and the good when Osborne was at the centre of the British Empire, are extraordinarily lavish, and you can have a glimpse into Victoria and Albert’s private world too: their bathing beach and the play cottage built for their children. Prince Albert’s private suite was poignantly kept as it was in his lifetime by the devoted Queen, and many of the objects he used at Osborne still lie where he left them.

Don’t miss The Great Victorian Show, 28-30 May www.english-heritage.org.uk

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STATELY HOMES

Burghley House, Lincolnshire

A grand Elizabethan pile, Burghley was built by William Cecil, Elizabeth I’s most trusted minister, who designed the house as a grand tribute to his Queen. The house’s splendid interior contains a fine collection of Italian Old Master paintings, as well as a celebrated ceramics collection. You can explore the evocative Tudor kitchens below stairs, as well as the breathtaking State Rooms – furnished thanks to the efforts of two of the house’s Earls, who travelled widely and purchased an incredible array of art and antiques. Their history and the hoard is examined in this year’s big exhibition, Treasures of the East.

Don’t miss Treasures of the East, until 3 November www.burghley.co.uk

Montacute House, Somerset

PHOTOS: ©JASON HAWKES/JAMES DOBSON/NATIONAL TRUST IMAGES

This magnificent Elizabethan Renaissance house was built to impress

by Sir Edward Phelips, a member of Elizabeth I’s parliament. Built in 1598, it remained in the Phelips family until 1931, when it was acquired by the National Trust. Its hamstone facade with mullioned windows is imposing, though all is not as it seems: the Tudor West Front was not designed for the house, but removed from nearby Clifton Maybank House and installed here in 1786. Inside, the 52-metre Long Gallery is the longest of its kind in England, holding 60 Tudor and Elizabethan portraits on long loan from the National Portrait Gallery.

Don’t miss The National Portrait Gallery exhibition Elizabeth of Bohemia: the Winter Queen, all year www.nationaltrust.org.uk/montacute-house

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STATELY HOMES

Longleat, Wiltshire

Built by Sir John Thynne in 1580, Longleat is a spectacular Elizabethan house in parkland designed by Capability Brown. It is now occupied by Thynne’s ancestor, the 7th Marquess of Bath, who transformed part of the grounds into a safari park, complete with lions, tigers and giraffes, in 1966: the first drive-through safari park outside Africa.

The family still live in part of the house, but 15 rooms are open to the public. Famous for a 40,000-strong book collection, Longleat’s seven libraries are a sight to behold.

Don’t miss Festival of Light, from 9 November www.longleat.co.uk

Blenheim Palace, Oxfordshire

There’s something very special about Blenheim, seat of the Dukes of Marlborough. The only non-royal or non-episcopal house in Britain to be called ‘palace’, it has a regal air that lives up to the name. For some, it even eclipses the royal palaces; on seeing Blenheim for the first time, King George III is reported to have said to Queen Charlotte, “We have nothing to equal this!”

Blenheim was built in the rare English Baroque style for John Churchill, 1st Duke of Marlborough, on parkland gifted to him

by Queen Anne, as a reward for victory over the French in the Battle of Blenheim, Bavaria, in 1704. Almost two centuries later, the duke’s descendant, Winston Churchill, was born here.

Each room of the palace is more spectacular than the last.

The marble-clad Great Hall with its frescoed ceiling and stone carvings makes a bold first impression, but the palace’s finest room is the aptly named Long Library, an incredible 55 metres in length.

Rivalling the house for magnificence are the grounds: 2,100 acres of parkland designed by Capability Brown. Churchill chose one of his favourite corners, the Temple of Diana, as a romantic spot to propose to his beloved, Clementine Hozier.

They married just a month later.

Don’t miss Pop-up Shakespeare’s Rose Theatre in the grounds, 8 July-7 September www.blenheimpalace.com www.britain-magazine.com

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STATELY HOMES

Hardwick Hall, Derbyshire

One of the country’s most magnificent Elizabethan houses, crafted by the finest craftsmen of the age in the 1590s, Hardwick is quite a spectacle. Then there’s the backstory: it was the creation of the formidable Bess of Hardwick – Tudor England’s other great Elizabeth – whose four marriages led her to become one of England’s most powerful and richest women. Towering turrets bear her initials, and her influence can be felt in every aspect of the extraordinary house.

Don’t miss We Are Bess exhibition, until 2 June www.nationaltrust.org.uk/hardwick

Harewood House, Yorkshire

The 1st Baron Harewood, Edwin Lascelles, assembled a dream team to create his ideal home in 1759: interior designer of the moment Robert Adam, legendary furniture maker Thomas Chippendale and famous landscape gardener Capability Brown. Their extraordinary efforts provide a fitting showpiece for Harewood’s priceless collections of Renaissance masterpieces and Sèvres porcelain, among much more.

Don’t miss Useful/Beautiful: Why Craft Matters, until 1 September harewood.org

The most northerly of Scotland’s great houses is also one of its most spectacular. Home to the Earls and Dukes of Sutherland since the 13th century, it resembles a French château with its whimsical spires and fairytale turrets. A fortified square keep for centuries, it was extensively remodelled by Charles Barry in 1845; the gardens, based on those at Versailles, were laid out in the 1850s.

Don’t miss Falconry displays, daily April to September www.dunrobincastle.co.uk

Petworth House, West Sussex

Inspired by European baroque palaces, Petworth is a stately ancestral seat with an astonishing art collection, including major works by Van Dyck, Turner, Reynolds and Gainsborough.

Intriguing objects abound, such as the earliest English globe in existence, dating back to 1592. The grounds, designed by Capability Brown, hold a 700-acre deer park.

Don’t miss Unlocking Petworth apartment tours, dates year-round www.nationaltrust.org.uk/petworth-house-and-park

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PHOTOS: © ROBERT MORRIS/NATIONAL TRUST IMAGES/ANDREAS VON EINSIEDEL/PAUL TOMKINS/VISIT SCOTLAND

Dunrobin Castle, Scottish Highlands

Britain’s Greatest Palace Birthplace of Sir Winston Churchill

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PHOTOS: © PETER JORDAN/AGE FOTOSTOCK/ALAMY/MATTHEW ANTROBUS/NATIONAL TRUST IMAGES

STATELY HOMES

Tredegar House, South Wales

This marvellous late 17th-century house is one of Wales’s most beguiling architectural wonders, set within 90 acres of gorgeous gardens. For more than 500 years Tredegar was home to one of Wales’s most powerful families, the Morgans, later Lords Tredegar, and no expense was spared in its decor. The interiors feature plenty of flamboyant touches, from the glittering Gilt Room, once a venue for glamorous parties, to the exquisitely carved serpents, lions and griffins in the Brown Room.

Don’t miss Behind the Scenes tours, selected dates through the year www.nationaltrust.org.uk/tredegar-house

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London Bridge Hotel has everything you need in a London hotel, relaxed yet comfortable and contemporary accommodation; a great location and transport links and the buzz of the city just outside the door.

Situated in the heart of the historic and thriving Borough of Southwark, London Bridge Hotel provides an excellent base from which to enjoy all the attractions of the capital, The Shard, the newly regenerated Shard Quarter, Borough Market and the River Thames.

Whilst here you must pay a visit to Quarter Bar & Lounge, the hotel’s bar which offers a chic design with a relaxed and comfortable atmosphere.

8/18 London Bridge Street, London SE1 9SG Tel: +44 (0) 20 7855 2200 Email: reservations@londonbridgehotel.com www.londonbridgehotel.com

HERITAGE RAIL

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HERITAGE RAIL Dine in style aboard the Belmond British Pullman

TIMELESS TRAVEL Let yourself be spirited to some of Britain's most beautiful destinations aboard a vintage train WORDS LAURA SILVERMAN

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odern trains might be convenient, but where’s their charm? They neither send out billows of smoke, nor whistle as they pull into stations.

Meanwhile, Agatha Christie – or her characters – wouldn’t be seen dead on the carriages, as clean and functional as they might be. Where’s the crystal in the buffet car? Where is the buffet car?

Fortunately, several hundred steam locomotives and, even better, their carriages, still run in Britain – and on historic routes, too. Many are from the late 19th and early 20th centuries. Most came out of regular service in the Sixties, and are now run by volunteers. Here, we chuff through some of the best of Britain’s heritage railway lines. www.britain-magazine.com

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BELMOND ROYAL SCOTSMAN Fancy a Highland fling? The sumptuous carriages of the Belmond Royal Scotsman whisk you to the misty peaks and craggy valleys of the Scottish Highlands in luxury. The polished wood of the carriages gleams, and the interiors recreate a Scottish country house hotel on wheels. Even the cabins are clad in tartan.

Take in the sights – Glamis Castle, Loch Lomond, Culloden Battlefield, Ben Nevis – from the comfort of the dining car with a malt whisky in hand. There’s even a spa on board, so you can pamper yourself as you chug onward. If shooting and fishing’s more your thing, a raft of special itineraries allow you to get back to nature. www.belmond.com

At 22.75 miles (36.61km), The West Somerset Railway is the longest heritage railway in England. And it has vintage appeal, too: parts of the line opened in 1862. Window seats offer views of the Quantock Hills, the sea and myriad villages. Explore the countryside from Williton Station, near the Coleridge Way – a 36-mile trail through landscape that inspired the 19th-century Romantic poet. Or from Crowcombe Heathfield, where you can take a one-and-a-half-mile circular walk, crossing a couple of railway bridges (look out for the flaming leaves of the beech trees in autumn).

Bring a bike to recreate Beatle Ringo Starr’s appearance in A Hard Day’s Night, where he cycles down Crowcombe platform. Or a bucket and spade, if you prefer the seasidey lure of Minehead, at the end of the line. www.west-somerset-railway.co.uk

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PHOTOS: © JULIA AIMIES GREEN PHOTOGRAPHY/NICK LEDGER/AWL IMAGES

WEST SOMERSET RAILWAY

NORTH YORKSHIRE MOORS RAILWAY You don’t get more historic than this route, if only because it was planned, in 1831, by George Stephenson, the Father of Railways. Today, the 18-mile (29km) heritage line, from Pickering to Grosmont, carries more passengers than any other in Britain. The heathery moors, marked by the quaintest of stations, are the draw. Both Pickering and Goathland stations, built in Victorian times, have been restored to their Twenties and Thirties glory. (The former appeared in Brideshead Revisited.) The War-Time Weekend in October will maximise the historical charm: expect actors in period dress to roam the area. Christmas will be even more spirited, with elves and mince pies.

Even Santa thinks this railway is worth a visit, from Lapland, at his busiest time of year. www.northyorkshiremoorsrailway.com

BLUEBELL RAILWAY The Bluebell Railway started in the Sixties, but its locomotives and carriages are considerably older. Most of the latter are pre-Second World War, and take it in turns to chug along the 11-mile (17.7km) route, largely across West Sussex. Trips are relaxed, starting or ending at Sheffield Park station, its Victorian charm restored. For afternoon tea on a Saturday, take the “Wealden Rambler” – serving retro classics such as Victoria sponge and chocolate eclairs. For a heartier meal, join the “Real Ale” train, offering a sausage-and-mash pub supper. Prefer to make your own trip? Buy an All Day Rover ticket. Look out for Horsted Keynes, on the way. The Victorian-era station has been restored to its 1920s days and appeared in Downton Abbey. www.bluebell-railway.com

ISLE OF MAN STEAM RAILWAY This railway is the longest narrow gauge steam line in the UK that still uses its original locomotives and carriages. Want figures? It’s 3ft (914mm) wide and 15.3 miles (24.6km) long. Founded in 1870, it is, in fact, the remainder of a much longer network of more than 46 miles (74km). Today, trains chug away between Douglas, the capital of the British Crown dependency between England and Ireland, and the best of the island’s sites in the south, including Port Erin, a Victorian seaside resort. The train is the most atmospheric way to reach the remains of Rushen Abbey, an ancient monastery, and Castle Rushen, a medieval castle. The highlight of the train itself is the restored dining car, built in 1905, with its maroon velvet chairs, plush carpet and starchy white tablecloths. www.visitisleofman.com

PHOTOS: © IAN G DAGNALL/ALAMY/ANDREW SCARFFE

FLYING SCOTSMAN Once, you could catch a talkie in the cinema, order a house cocktail in the bar and have your hair cut at the barber’s on Flying Scotsman, the 1920s locomotive chuffing between London King’s Cross and Edinburgh Waverley. The first service ran in 1862 and took 10 and a half hours. In 1934, Flying Scotsman became the first locomotive in the UK to reach 100mph. Travel by steam this year from London to Salisbury, or through the Surrey Hills, as the engine hauls special tours across the UK. Or spot the Scotsman at rest on select dates at York's National Railway Museum. www.flyingscotsman.org.uk

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HERITAGE RAIL

THE JACOBITE The Jacobite gets its name from the 17th-century political movement which fought for James VII of Scotland (James II of England) to be restored to the English and Scottish thrones after the Glorious Revolution. The Jacobite hasn’t been going for that long, although parts of the line do date back to 1901.

The 41-mile route (66km) through the Scottish Highlands includes lots of highests and deepests and shortests – from Fort William (near Britain’s highest mountain, Ben Nevis) to Loch Morar (Britain’s deepest freshwater loch) to Arisaig (Britain’s most westerly mainland railway station, where, on a clear day, you can see some of the Scottish islands). Could the line also be one of the most famous – at least by sight? It’s the one in the Harry Potter films. The Hogwarts Express sits at the Warner Brothers’ Studio Tour in London, but you still get to experience part of Harry’s journey over the 21-arched Glenfinnan Viaduct. And you won’t have to fight a dragon at the other side. www.westcoastrailways.co.uk

Looking for marquetry decorated with leaping antelope, deep-pile carpet or cut-glass tumblers?

You’ve come to the right place. The 11 carriages of Belmond British Pullman – sister train to the Venice Simplon-Orient-Express – were once part of the Brighton Belle and the Golden Arrow, celebrity trains of their time, and display Twenties and Thirties glamour. They even have names, including “Audrey”, which has carried HM The Queen, and appeared in the Agatha Christie adaptation Murder on the Orient Express.

Destinations include Bath, York, Canterbury, Blenheim Palace and a new route to Stratfordupon-Avon. Pop-up dinners are hosted by Michelin star chefs such as Michel Roux, Jr and Raymond Blanc, while murder mystery lunches give you the chance to recreate those Agatha Christie moments. www.belmond.com

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PHOTOS: © HELEN CATHCART

BELMOND BRITISH PULLMAN

LONDON London's big sights cluster along the River Thames

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LONDON

Whether you’re a first-time visitor or a lifelong Londoner, Britain’s vibrant capital is entrancing.

‘Tired of London, tired of life’ goes the old adage, and it’s true: beyond the top tier of world-class sights, from the Tower of London to the British Museum, there are numerous smaller museums, galleries and buildings to absorb you, each with stories to tell. And even if you don’t set foot in a single one, you’ll find endless (and free) entertainment browsing the capital’s markets, exploring tucked-away Georgian squares and City backstreets, or joining the throngs on the South Bank, home to Tate Modern, the London Eye and Shakespeare’s Globe.

Then there’s the food. London has evolved into one of the world’s great culinary capitals, with an impressive 69 Michelin-star restaurants; take afternoon tea, join a food tour or fine-dine with a skyline view (see our suggestions on p126-134).

However you round off your evening – with a visit to a West End show, maybe, or a pint in a local pub – we think you’ll agree that there are few cities on earth that can match the buzz of London.

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LONDON

London essentials

PHOTOS: © ANDREW PICKETT/VISIT BRITAIN/THE NATIONAL GALLERY, LONDON

The National Gallery houses one of the world's greatest art collections

HIGHLIGHTS

NATIONAL GALLERY This beautiful gallery houses one of the greatest collections of paintings in the world, and also offers stunning views over Trafalgar Square. Discover over 2,300 paintings, including masterpieces such as Constable’s The Hay Wain.

TATE MODERN The home of contemporary art in London, this iconic museum puts on thought-provoking exhibitions and was the city's most-visited attraction in 2018.

ST PAUL’S CATHEDRAL Sir Christopher Wren’s masterpiece is full of wonder.

Walk across the floor where Prince Charles and Diana were married in 1981, take a pew for Choral Evensong or climb 528 steps to the Dome for breathtaking views.

BRITISH MUSEUM One of the oldest museums in the world, the British Museum has over 8 million objects covering over 2

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million years of history. It holds countless precious exhibits, including the Rosetta Stone, the Parthenon Sculptures and Egyptian mummies.

GREENWICH Cutty Sark, the world’s only surviving tea clipper, celebrates its 150th anniversary this year – reason alone for a visit, but there's plenty more to do here: stand astride the historic Prime Meridian, divider of East and West; visit Greenwich Observatory, home of Greenwich Mean Time; and marvel at the Old Royal Naval College's baroque Painted Hall, recently restored to its former glory.

THE SOUTH BANK This buzzing area, across the river from the Houses of Parliament, has some of the city’s biggest attractions including Tate Modern, Shakespeare’s Globe and the London Eye . And with its theatres, galleries and restaurants, you could easily spend a day here.

MARKETS Whether you’re on the hunt for antiques at Portobello Market, foodie treats at Borough Market, or colourful flowers at Columbia Road Market, you’ll find London's markets the perfect browsing ground.

2019 EVENTS Trooping the Colour This parade of over 1,400 soldiers and 200 horses has marked the official birthday of the British sovereign for over 260 years. 8 June West End LIVE A weekend of free live performances from the top West End shows in Trafalgar Square.

22-23 June Wimbledon Crowds queue for centre court tickets at the world's oldest tennis tournament. 1-14 July Van Gogh and Britain This major exhibition at Tate Britain, with 55 works by Van Gogh, explores how the artist was inspired by Britain. Until 11 August BBC Proms A world-renowned 8-week classical music festival held every summer in the Royal Albert Hall. 19 July to 14 September Lord Mayor’s Show Full of pomp and spectacle, this 3-mile procession from the City of London to Westminster sees the Lord Mayor swear loyalty to the Crown. 9 November

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PHOTOS: © LEE BEEL/VISIT BRITAIN/GUY FARROW/VICTORIA & ALBERT MUSEUM, LONDON

TOWER OF LONDON From the Crown Jewels to the legendary beefeaters, explore 1,000 years of history at this fortress, royal palace and infamous prison.

LONDON

Guardians of the Tower We talk to Chief Yeoman Warder, Pete McGowran, about resident ravens, age-old traditions and that iconic uniform WORDS ZARA GASPAR

Y

eoman Warders – nicknamed Beefeaters – are the ceremonial guardians of the Tower of London and still swear allegiance to the Queen. In addition to manning the Tower and all things within it, they have been historically responsible for the supervision of State Prisoners. In modern times, Beefeaters lead tours of the Tower, present lectures and are always on hand to answer visitors’ questions.

Chief Yeoman Warder, Pete McGowran, gives us a glimpse of what life is like as a resident and guardian of the Tower of London.

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PHOTO: WWW.BRIDGEMANIMAGES.COM

LONDON

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LONDON Clockwise from top: the White Tower; the red uniform is for State occasions, blue for everyday; Inner Ward; chapel

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of St John the Evangelist; Pete McGowran with Yeoman Gaoler Bob Loughlin Bottom right: Tower Green

LONDON

Why are Yeoman Warders called Beefeaters?

We don’t know. In days of old we were paid in rations of food. It’s probably come from those days. A decent bodyguard of the monarchy would also make sure he ate like a bodyguard. He would have been eating the meat of our kings and queens.

What’s it like being a Beefeater?

It’s an absolute honour. You’re grounded when you come here because you go back to the bottom of the ladder. I started as a Yeoman Warder and then decided to join the raven team. Legend says we have to keep six ravens here and we keep seven just in case. The legend says if you don’t have the ravens here the tower crumbles and we’ll have no monarchy. I enjoyed that role. I then became the Chapel Clerk looking after the Chapel of St Peter ad Vincula and the Chapel of St John the Evangelist. I took part in ceremonies, baptisms and weddings. I became a Yeoman Sergeant in 2013. Then I became a Gaoler last

year and this year I became a Chief Yeoman Warder in charge of the 36 other Yeoman Warders.

What does your job involve?

I’m in work for 7.30am to make sure all the programmes are ready for the day. My job is to ensure all the forward planning is done. I’ll also take a lead role in ceremonies.

It’s a busy job. Our guys work in the evenings as well. It’s not just telling stories, there’s 14 posts they could be manning, from the Chapel to the Bloody Tower.

What’s your favourite part of the job?

I just love the job. First thing in the morning I have a good old chinwag with the Gaoler, we look at our diaries and make sure everyone is in the right place. I enjoy taking part in ceremonies. But mainly I want to make sure my Yeoman Warders are all happy in their jobs.

What surprises people about the Tower of London?

The biggest surprise people get here is the fact that it’s a live-in village. There’s 45 families here; there’s 120 people. This is where our kids grow up. This is our life.

What’s been your best memory of the job?

Probably my favourite day here was when the Queen visited in 2014 to plant poppies in the moat. That was a great day for me as that year I was a Chapel Clerk and it was my job to escort Her Majesty.

What’s the worst thing about the job?

Sometimes it’s hard to get a pizza delivered because

PHOTOS: © RICHARD LEA-HAIR/MAREMAGNUM/GETTY IMAGES/DOMINIC LIPINSKI/PA IMAGES/ NICK GUTTRIDGE/JAMES BRITTAIN/HISTORIC ROYAL PALACES/JIGGOTRAVEL/ALAMY

How did you become a Yeoman Warder?

You have to have to have spent over 22 years in her Majesty’s Armed Forces. I spent over 25 years in the Royal Air Force. You must have reached the rank of Sergeant or equivalent and you must have been awarded a Long Service and Good Conduct medal. I had all three so I decided to apply.

I was working overseas and was on holiday in London when I decided to go for the job as my wife said I’d be good at it, stood up there shouting and acting. I went for it and surprised myself when I got it.

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LONDON when you say “Can you come to The Tower of London?” they think you’re joking!

What’s it like to live at the Tower of London?

When I get off the Tube at night and I walk down Tower Hill and look at the lit-up castle, even though I’ve been here 10 years now, I still can’t believe that’s where I live, that that’s my home.

Where’s your favourite place to go when you’re not working?

I love going to the pub because it’s only three doors away from my front door. It’s run by the Yeoman Warders.

They say it’s the oldest club in the world. It keeps us out of mischief and we don’t have a problem with closing times. But my favourite part of the Tower is the Chapel.

What is the Ceremony of the Keys?

It’s been going on for 700 years: the ceremonial locking of the Tower of London. The public come and see it every night. There’s an 18-month waiting list. It starts at 9.53pm and it finishes at 10pm. We use Her Majesty’s

PHOTOS: © MARTIN USBORNE/FRANTZESCO KANGARIS/HISTORIC ROYAL PALACES/NEWSTEAM INTERNATIONAL

This image: The Ceremony of the Keys is over 700 years old.

Below: American naval officers in the Ceremony of the Constable's Dues

What’s it like to work with the ravens?

I enjoyed it immensely. Getting up early, getting them out of the cages, feeding them, monitoring them. It’s a great feeling first thing in the morning and last thing in the evening when there’s no one else here. It’s just you and them.

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LOSE YOURSELF IN THE

CROWN JEWELS

Discover the treasures that united the kingdom, secured in London’s castle, the Tower of London.

Book online to save Members go free Tower Hill Royal Collection Trust © 2019, Her Majesty Queen Elizabeth II

LONDON keys and we use a lantern, which is maybe 100 years old.

It’s a wonderful ceremony. There’s an average of 50 people here every evening. It is a marvellous spectacle.

Can you tell us about any other ceremonies?

The Ceremony of the Constable’s Dues dates back to the days when we used to provide protection for ships to come to London. In return there was a gift from the captain of the ship to the Constable of the Tower. Once or twice a year we carry out that ceremony. Different countries come in with military ships. The captain of the ship comes to our main gate with a barrel of fine wine or port. We let the sailors in and they march down to Tower Green. The captain and Constable will say a few words, then the barrel is handed over and then the ship’s company will all go to our club and help drink the contents of that barrel.

What’s it like protecting the Crown Jewels?

It’s marvellous. We are ceremonial bodyguards to Her Majesty the Queen and we’re very proud of that. There’s no sight like it in the world.

What’s your favourite story of the Tower?

From the two boy princes being imprisoned to the plants Sir Walter Raleigh had outside his Bloody Tower home and Flambard, the first to escape the Tower, there are lots of stories. My favourite part of the Tower’s story is the ravens. Ravens normally live for 10-15 years, but in the Tower they live a lot longer. One lived here for 44 years.

Have you ever seen a ghost at the Tower?

I don’t believe in ghosts, but over the years there have been many stories of sightings, especially in Victorian times. I don’t know if that’s after leaving the pub, but there are loads of stories like people getting tipped out of bed.

Above: The Crown Jewels are kept safe at the Tower This picture: Legend has it if the ravens leave, the monarchy will cease to exist

Why should visitors take a tour?

I don’t think there’s anywhere else in the world you can join a tour and be given 1,000 years of history by a former Sergeant Major. We have a certain humour from the military and it resonates when we give our tour.

What’s it like wearing the uniform?

I love it. I didn’t think I’d be wearing something so ornate or frock-like, but it’s an honour to wear the Crown on your chest. I’m very proud.

The Tower is open Tuesday to Saturday 9am-5.30pm, Sunday and Monday 10am-5.30pm (closes 4.30pm in winter).

Yeoman Warder tours take place every 30 minutes; special Twilight Tours are organised on selected Sundays from January to April. The Ceremony of the Keys takes place daily; book tickets well in advance. For more things to see and do at the Tower of London visit www.hrp.org.uk

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PHOTOS: © HISTORIC ROYAL PALACES

VISITING THE TOWER

HOTEL, EVENTS & GARDEN TOURS

Spend time at a living Benedictine monastery; enjoy the Abbey’s beautiful architecture and gardens, restaurant and shops, visit the Monastic Way exhibition, all located in the River Dart's beautiful valley. Why not stay overnight in Buckfast Abbey’s Northgate House Hotel it offers perfect seclusion and is an ideal base from which to explore the surrounding countryside. The Abbey Church hosts a range of concerts, events and daily Mass, for more information see our website.

Hot food & drinks available all day at the Grange Restaurant Free Entry & Free Parking Abbey Church • Working Monastery • Gardens • Shops • Restaurant • Hotel & Conference Centre • Assistance Dogs Welcome

Buckfast Abbey, Buckfastleigh, Devon TQ11 0EE • www.buckfast.org.uk or Tel: 01364 645507

Buckfast Abbey is a registered Charity No. 232497

Experience Serenity where monasticism comes alive

SOUTHWEST ENGLAND

SOUTHWEST ENGLAND

The so-called 'West Country' is full of wonder: the mystical land of King Arthur and Stonehenge; the awe-inspiring Jurassic Coast, embedded with the fossils of dinosaurs; moorland dotted with ancient monuments and traversed by wild ponies; and a spectacular coastline tapering out at Lizard Point, Cornwall's southernmost point.

The area, covering Gloucestershire, Bristol, Wiltshire, Somerset, Dorset, Devon, Cornwall and the Isles of Scilly, holds an impressive four UNESCO World Heritage Sites and two national parks.

If the coast, with its quaint fishing towns and cheerful seaside resorts, leaves the most lasting impression, the interior is pretty spectacular too.

With cities like Bath, a harmonious cityscape in creamy limestone, and Salisbury with its elegant cathedral, there's much to explore.

The region is also prized for its food and drink: Gloucester Old Spot pork, Somerset cider and cheese, Cornish crab and pasties. And of course, you can't leave the West Country without tucking into to a cream tea of scones, clotted cream and jam. We'll leave the age-old question – jam or cream first? – to you.

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Cottages in Crantock, Cornwall

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SOUTHWEST ENGLAND

Stonehenge is one of Neolithic man's most incredible achievements

BATH This beautiful Georgian town is famed for its spa waters, honey-stone houses and Jane Austen connections: Bath was home to the author from 1801 to 1806, when it was a fashionable spa resort.

STONEHENGE The origins of this mysterious monolithic ring still confound archaeologists. What we can say for sure is that it's one of Neolithic man's most incredible achievements. However accustomed you are to seeing it in pictures, visiting in person never fails to thrill.

DARTMOOR Windswept and beautiful, this brooding granite expanse is dotted with tors and tumbling springs. Wild ponies trot freely across the moorland here, as they have done for centuries.

CREAM TEAS Whether you spread the jam first, as in Cornwall, or the cream, as in Devon, a cream tea is a must in this part of the country.

THE COTSWOLDS Arguably Britain’s prettiest villages are clustered in this corner of England, including Bourton-on-the-Water, with its sweet bridges over the River Windrush; Burford, lined with antiques shops; and Bibury, described by William Morris as “the most beautiful village in England”. Photo opportunities abound.

TINTAGEL In a picturesque setting on Cornwall’s northern coast are these spectacular ruins of a vast Norman stronghold. A dramatic new footbridge set 187ft above sea level opens this summer, linking Tintagel island to the castle where, as legend has it, King Arthur was conceived.

ST IVES Blessed with beautiful light and sparkling sea, this town has long had links with artists, and holds an outpost of the Tate Gallery.

JURASSIC COAST England’s only natural World Heritage Site covers over 95 miles of coastline, including horseshoe-shaped Lulworth Cove and the limestone arch of Durdle Door.

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2019 EVENTS 'Obby 'Oss Padstow locals dress up in traditional costume and return to their Cornish roots. 1 May Cooper’s Hill cheese rolling Thousands gather to watch the eccentric tradition of chasing a cheese down a steep hill in Gloucester. 27 May Cotswold Olympick Games Dating from the 17th century, this quirky annual games event is set in beautiful Gloucestershire countryside. 31 May Top of the Gorge Festival A carnival of outdoor adventure and entertainment overlooking the stunning Cheddar Gorge in Somerset. 14-16 June Bristol International Balloon Fiesta Europe's largest annual meeting of hot air balloons attracts over 150 balloons from across the world. 8-11 August Bournemouth Air Festival An actionpacked 4-day airshow on the Dorset coast.

29 August-1 September

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PHOTOS: © LEE BEEL/VISIT BRITAIN/GUY FARROW/VICTORIA & ALBERT MUSEUM, LONDON

HIGHLIGHTS

PHOTO: © KEVIN BRITLAND/VIC POWLES/ALAMY

Southwest essentials

Visit the heart of beautiful Georgian Bath and step into history with a visit to the Roman Baths, one of the finest spas of the ancient world.

See the Roman Baths transformed by torchlight during our late night opening from 21 June to 31 August.

Only 90 minutes from London Paddington Book online at www.romanbaths.co.uk

@RomanBathsBath TheRomanBaths theromanbaths

SOUTHWEST ENGLAND

RBATHS OMAN The

Bath's magnificent ancient Roman bathing complex set the scene for the city's heyday as a Georgian spa resort WORDS NATASHA FOGES

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PHOTO: © 360 IMAGES/ANDY FLETCHER PHOTOGRAPHY

SOUTHWEST ENGLAND

H

ot Bath Street. Quiet Street. Comfortable Place. Perfect View. The quaint street names in Bath are redolent of a place of ease and relaxation. The ancient Romans certainly thought so: they chose Bath as the site of an incredible spa complex, built around a sacred spring believed to have healing properties.

More than a million litres of spring water gushes out of the ground here every day at a warm 46°C, which must have seemed like a miracle to the Romans. They built their lavish spa in around 70 AD, unique in the Roman Empire in its complexity and scale. They dedicated the on-site temple to Sulis Minerva, incorporating the name of the

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Celtic goddess worshipped by the local tribe with that of their own goddess of war and wisdom.

The baths are a masterwork of ancient engineering, with facilities that really wouldn’t be out of place in a cuttingedge spa today. The hot water was channelled through lead pipes, with underfloor heating warming the chilly stone slabs and a series of chambers housing the saunas and steam rooms.

The baths were the social hub of society: people from all walks of life, from centurion to lowly pleb, could gossip, relax, flirt and, of course, bathe in the vaporous spring waters. Snacks were sold waterside and bathers could indulge in all manner of pampering treatments,

Below: The Great Bath, filled with steaming spa water, forms the centrepiece of the bathing complex

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but it wasn’t all fun and games. The temple and sacred spring were an important site of pilgrimage. Among the artefacts dredged from its waters, which are now on show in the on-site museum, are coins thrown in as offerings and curses written on strips of lead for the goddess Minerva to act upon. “May he who carried off Vilbia from me become as liquid as the water,” reads one.

Today, as you stand before the steaming green waters, framed by classical columns and overlooked by the weathered busts of emperors, it’s easy to imagine toga-clad Romans reclining on marble slabs and luxuriating in their surroundings. A wallow in warm water would have been followed by an invigorating dip in a cold plunge pool; projections of bathers help bring this ancient scene to life.

In the early 5th century the Romans withdrew from Britain and the baths fell into disrepair. Two centuries later, the River Avon flooded and the baths were engulfed in thick black mud. The roofs of the baths and temple

gradually collapsed, walls fell in and statues were swamped.

The baths lay forgotten for centuries.

The town was still renowned for its healing waters, however. In the 11th century the King’s Bath was built over the site of the ancient baths. Fame of the therapeutic waters spread, attracting even royal visitors, from Queen Elizabeth I to Queen Anne, whose three visits in the early 18th century really put Bath on the map. The city became a fashionable spa resort, prompting an architectural revival that transformed it into the elegant place it is today.

Jane Austen, who later made Bath her home, accompanied her ailing brother Edward on a two-month trip in 1799.

Probably suffering from gout, he made frequent visits to “take the waters”; Austen wrote hopefully to her sister Cassandra, “They all say that the effect of the Waters cannot be negative.”

Centre of the Georgian social whirl was the Pump Room, which allowed people to drink the curative waters directly

PHOTOS: © MIKE NEWMAN/OCEAN-IMAGE.COM/NATIONAL TRUST IMAGES/MARIANNE MAJERUS

Clockwise, from below: The Pump Room serves refreshments, including water from the hot springs; the rooftop pool of The Thermae Bath Spa; a depiction of the Pump Room in its heyday by caricaturist Thomas Rowlandson

PHOTOS: © TRAVELLINGLIGHT/ALAMY/VISIT BRITAIN/ BRIDGEMANIMAGES.COM

SOUTHWEST ENGLAND

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SOUTHWEST ENGLAND from the spring in elegant surroundings. Still genteelly evocative of the era, it now houses a smart restaurant, which does a memorable afternoon tea accompanied by the resident string trio. Save your ticket to the baths, as it entitles you to a cupful of warm spa water at the Pump Room. Packed with 43 health-giving minerals, it’s good for you, no doubt, but foul-tasting all the same. You might prefer to take the waters by indulging in one of the nearby spas: the state-of-the-art Thermae Bath Spa complex down the road gives visitors the chance to bathe in warm, mineral-rich waters, just as the Romans did over 2,000 years ago.

But what of the original Roman baths, submerged in mud? In 1880 city workmen, who had been called to the King’s Bath to investigate a leak, unearthed a glimpse of the old Roman spa. The rest of the structure was gradually brought to light and painstakingly restored, while the outer walls, columns and parapet are Victorian

additions. The complex was opened to the public in the late 19th century, and swimming was possible right up until the 1970s, though the waters are off-limits these days. Still, you can walk the ancient cobbles past the sacred spring, changing rooms and the various pools, and see the remains of the temple.

Restoration of the baths continues, with a further bath due to be excavated this year. What’s more, plans are afoot to put the 1,170,000 litres of piping-hot water that burst forth from the spring every day to ingenious new use. Rather than allowing it to flow into the River Avon, engineers will redirect the water to heat the vast and chilly medieval chambers of nearby Bath Abbey. A heating system that makes innovative use of existing resources? Even the hard-to-please Romans would have been impressed.  For more on British landmarks, visit www.britain-magazine.com

BOOK AHEAD The Roman Baths are open daily, with special evening visits organised in the summer months.

The Pump Room Restaurant is open daily for breakfast, lunch and afternoon tea. www.romanbaths.co.uk www.britain-magazine.com

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COMPETITION

W IN

A LUXURY STAY IN CORNWALL Enter our competition to win an indulgent break for two at one of Cornwall's finest hotels

PHOTO: © MATT JESSOP/THE EDEN PROJECT

P

erched dramatically on the cliffs of St Austell is one of Cornwall’s loveliest hotels, the Carlyon Bay. With beautiful rooms, an excellent restaurant and breathtaking sea views, it makes the perfect Cornish escape.

One lucky winner and their guest will be treated to a 2-night stay here, including a four-course dinner on the first night and a delicious breakfast each morning, plus free entry to the nearby Eden Project, one of Britain’s greatest attractions, described as ‘the 8th Wonder of the World’.

The Carlyon Bay, which has hosted famous guests including Winston Churchill and Edward VIII, excels in luxurious touches and impeccable service. A liveried doorman greets you as you arrive; welcome drinks ease you into relaxation mode; dinner at the Bay View Restaurant is a beautifully executed fine-dining experience; and afterwards, when you return to your room, a chocolate awaits on your pillow.

The hotel is a temple to relaxation. There are top-notch holistic spa facilities (with over 40 treatments to choose from), for a day of pampering; and indoor and outdoor pools, tennis courts and a croquet lawn if you’re feeling active.

A championship 18-hole golf course with views of the shimmering sea is another string to the www.britain-magazine.com

hotel’s bow. Guests of the hotel can enjoy a free round of golf each day, and for those needing a little practice, expert tuition is on hand.

There’s plenty to see and do nearby. After visiting the awe-inspiring Eden Project, which houses the world’s largest indoor rainforest in its bubble-like biomes, head to the Minack Theatre, carved out of the cliffs, or Lanhydrock House, one of Cornwall’s finest stately homes. carlyonbay.com TERMS AND CONDITIONS

Closing date for entries is 12pm GMT 4 October 2019. Prize to be redeemed by 1 October 2020, subject to availability and excluding Christmas, New Year and Easter. Travel not included. For full terms and conditions, go to www.britainmagazine.com/competitions/Cornwall2019

HOW TO ENTER For your chance to win this fantastic prize go to www.britain-magazine. com/competitions/Cornwall2019 to apply online or fill in the coupon below with the answer to the following question: Q: What has been described as the 8th Wonder of the World? a) Big Ben b) The Eden Project c) The Giant’s Causeway

ENTRY FORM SEND YOUR COUPON TO: US readers – Cornwall 2019 Competition, C/O Circulation Specialists, 2 Corporate Drive, Suite 945, Shelton, CT 06484 UK and Rest of World readers – Cornwall 2019 Competition, BRITAIN magazine, The Chelsea Magazine Company, Jubilee House, 2 Jubilee Place, London, SW3 3TQ , UK My answer: Name: Address: Postcode: Tel no:

Email:

Terms and conditions apply. For full details, visit www.chelseamagazines.com/terms. Please tick here if you subscribe to BRITAIN Please tick here if you would prefer not to be contacted by BRITAIN the competition providers or carefully selected third parties

SOUTHEAST ENGLAND

SOUTHEAST ENGLAND

The Southeast, with its scenic coastline and bucolic scenes of apple orchards and country lanes, exerts a nostalgic pull on many Londoners, as it’s traditionally a region where city-dwellers took their summer holiday. Easily accessible by train from the Big Smoke, the area covers Berkshire, Buckinghamshire, Hampshire, the Isle of Wight, Kent, Oxfordshire, Surrey, and East and West Sussex.

Many of the Southeast’s prettiest spots have an appealingly old-fashioned feel. Charming seaside towns such as Whitstable, renowned for its oysters, and cheerful Brighton line the coast, with many a castle bearing witness to the days when this coastline saw off waves of seaborne invasions. The breathtaking White Cliffs of Dover are a high point – literally – while the rolling South Downs and the High Weald hold stunning scenery, sleepy villages and quaint market towns. Two of the country’s finest cathedrals, Winchester and Canterbury – beginning and end points of a historic pilgrimage route – the glorious architecture of Oxford, and Windsor Castle, HM The Queen’s favourite home, are further draws.

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The Radcliffe Camera is just one example of Oxford's beautiful architecture

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SOUTHEAST ENGLAND

Southeast England essentials 2019 EVENTS Glyndebourne A wonderful summer opera festival held in the grounds of this country house in East Sussex. 18 May-25 August Royal Ascot World-class horse racing, high fashion, fine dining and pageantry sum up this popular event on the British social calendar. 18-22 June RHS Hampton Court Garden Festival This established festival is the world’s largest annual flower show, displaying 34 acres of show gardens, flower marquees and plant exhibits. 2-7 July Henley Royal Regatta Thousands of spectators gather on the banks of the River Thames for this annual five-day rowing event in Oxfordshire. 3-7 July Whitstable Oyster Festival One of the most popular events in Kent is this celebration of the town’s connection with the oyster industry. 27-29 July Portsmouth International Kite Festival Kite-fliers from all over the world congregate in Portsmouth, Hampshire to fly colourful kites in outlandish designs. 10-11 August Burning the Clocks, Brighton Burning the Clocks marks the shortest day of the year. The community comes together to release lanterns into a bonfire on Brighton Beach. 21 December

PHOTOS ` : © CHRISTINA BOLLEN/ IMAGEBROKER/ALAMY

Brighton is famous for its iconic pier

WHITE CLIFFS OF DOVER An iconic landmark, the spectacular, 100m-high White Cliffs overlook the English channel; the perfect place for breathtaking coastal path walks with unrivalled views.

SISSINGHURST The garden of writer Vita Sackville West, National Trust-owned Sissinghurst Castle and Garden in Kent is a colourful must-see for green-fingered enthusiasts.

CANTERBURY This charming city, protected by ancient walls, impresses with stunning architecture and a rich history. Admire the oldest cathedral in England, walk in the footsteps of Chaucer’s medieval pilgrims or wander the narrow medieval alleys and riverside gardens at the city's core.

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OXFORD This distinguished university city is renowned for its beauty. Surrounded by the rolling Cotswold Hills, the honey-coloured buildings and cobbled streets make it one of England's most photogenic cities (especially when seen from a punt on the River Cherwell). There’s plenty of incredible civic architecture, including the Radcliffe Camera and Ashmolean Museum, but you're likely to spend much of your time peering into the courtyards of Oxford's beautiful colleges.

BRIGHTON This cool seaside city is best known for its iconic pier and colourful party scene. The Brighton Pavilion – an outstanding Victorian domed palace designed for George IV by John Nash – is a must-visit.

WINDSOR CASTLE The oldest and largest occupied castle in the world,

Windsor Castle is awe-inspiring. Famous as the venue for Prince Harry and Meghan Markle’s wedding, the castle, which is used by HM The Queen for private weekends, has seen over 900 years of history and has served as a home to 39 monarchs.

HAMPTON COURT PALACE Explore the extravagant interiors of the baroque palace that was once Henry VIII’s favourite residence, from the Great Hall to the Haunted Gallery and Tudor Kitchen, before getting lost in the UK’s oldest surviving hedge maze.

RYE With its attractive cobbled streets and timber-framed buildings, the medieval town of Rye is pretty as a picture. It may be small but there’s lots to see, from the 13th-century Rye Castle to Lamb House, the home of author Henry James. www.britain-magazine.com

PHOTOS: © LEE BEEL/VISIT BRITAIN/GUY FARROW/VICTORIA & ALBERT MUSEUM, LONDON

HIGHLIGHTS

picturesque villages, lively historic towns

Discover Wycombe District

and Enjoy…

t in the heart of the Chiltern Hills, Wycombe District is the perfect year round destination whatever your agenda. countryside the beautiful walks, waterways and cosy English pubs provide an idyllic rural retreat. phere the bustling historic market towns offer endless entertainment for all the family.

llages, lively historic towns

Princes Risborough

n Hills, Wycombe District is the perfect year round destination whatever your agenda. mbleden Village High Wycombe and cosy English pubs provide an idyllicHa alks, waterways rural retreat. market towns offer endless entertainment for all the family.

d

Set in the glorious county of Buckinghamshire within the heart of the Chilterns Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty, Wycombe District’s combination of quintessential English villages, townsone and beautiful outexciting morehistoric contact of ourrural Tourist landscapes make an ideal destination for a day trip or break, all year round.

e Marlow Just a short ride from London the 483597 1892 Tel: +44(0)1628

Princes Risborough

Information Centres Princes Risborough Tel: +44(0)1844 274795

undiscovered Chiltern Hills provide an idyllic and picturesque retreat. Strolling www.wycombe.gov.uk/tourism or email tourism_enquiries@wycombe.gov.uk the Thames Path at Marlow and hiking the Ridgeway National Trail from Princes The River Thames at Marlow Risborough being just a few of the District’s pleasures.

Wycombe is proud to host some of the finest accommodation in the Buckinghamshire and with Michelinstar restaurants, cosy countryside pubs, elegant afternoon tea venues and a selection of micro-breweries dotted throughout, you won’t need to search far to enjoy the unique luxuries on offer.

ct one of our Tourist Information Centres To find out more visit

Marlow www.wycombe.gov.uk/tourism

for inspiration483597 planning your trip Tel: or +44(0)1628

contact our Visitor Information Service on

+44(0)1296 382415

Princes Risborough Tel: +44(0)1844 274795 Cycling the Chilterns

ourism or email tourism_enquiries@wycombe.gov.uk

SOUTHEAST ENGLAND

WANDERING the WINE GARDEN of ENGLAND From its ancient history to its modern renaissance, there’s more to English winemaking than you might expect WORDS REBECCA HALLETT

PHOTO: © CRAIG PAYNE

SOUTHEAST ENGLAND

SOUTHEAST ENGLAND This image: Sedlescombe’s vineyard overlooks Bodiam Castle Previous page and below: Bluebell Vineyard

I

n 1077, a monk named Gundulf travelled from Normandy to a small English city on the River Medway, to assume the bishopric of its derelict 400-year-old cathedral. He quickly set to work building a new cathedral, which still stands today, but he also established something else: a vineyard.

During Gundulf’s time as Bishop of Rochester, the order of Benedictine monks that he founded grew grapes alongside their other duties. In fact, Gundulf became so associated with his vineyards that a wine festival was held every year on the anniversary of his death. Eventually, of course, this tradition faded away – that is, until now.

In 2018, the Wine Garden of England Festival was held for the first time in 900 years, and there’s never been a better time to celebrate wine in the Southeast. Rows of vines may not be the first image that comes to mind when thinking of rural England, but in fact the area is full of vineyards, with around sixty in Kent, Sussex and Surrey alone.

But of course, quantity doesn’t necessarily equal quality. The real question must be: is it any good? The overwhelming consensus is that, yes, English wine is becoming a force to be reckoned with. And don’t just take it from the Brits; in 2017, the prestigious Champagne

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house Taittinger started planting a vineyard in Kent, under the name Domaine Evremond (www.domaineevremond.com). When France starts to get involved, you know you’re making good wine.

In fact, sparkling wine is what the Brits do best, with British bubblies scooping up accolades over the past few years. All the big-hitting vineyards in the Southeast have an excellent sparkling wine or two to their name, from Hush Heath (hushheath.com) to Bluebell (www.bluebellvineyard.org), and Ridgeview (www.ridgeview.co.uk) – which recently won Winemaker of the Year in the prestigious International Wine & Spirit competition – to Chapel Down (www. chapeldown.com), England’s leading wine producer. The area’s chalky soil and mild climate make it quite literally fertile ground for a good range of grapes, the most popular being Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and Bacchus, plus Pinot Meunier and Ortega.

“The main wines you will find are still and sparkling whites and rosés,” says Elisabeth Else, who established Wine Cellar Door, the only online guide to visiting English and Welsh vineyards (of which there were over 200 at her last count). She suggests that, though there’s not as much red wine produced here as further south – “and don’t go expecting big heavy reds, our climate simply www.britain-magazine.com

Many vineyards put on special events and tastings for English Wine Week (25 May to 2 June 2019)

SOUTHEAST ENGLAND

PHOTOS: © PETER ADAMS/GETTY IMAGES/CHRISTOPHER SUTHERLAND/HELEN DIXON/CAROL SACHS

This image: Vines ripening under the sun at Denbies Below: Ridgeview produces excellent sparkling wines

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SOUTHEAST ENGLAND Left: Chapel Down is the the country’s leading winemaker Below: Visitors to Chapel Down can pair wine-tasting with a meal at The Swan

won’t allow that kind of ripeness” – we are seeing more and more variety in what’s available. “We’ve reached a really exciting place in this country, where sparkling wine producers have proved they can make wines as good as those from Champagne, so now they want to make wines that express our terroir and their own personality. In the same way that Picasso’s early work was more realistic in style, or a musician learns the classical methods before he jams more creatively, English and Welsh wines are going through the same evolution.”

Though wine has been produced on a small scale for centuries, the first in this new wave of vineyards was established in 1969.

Biddenden (biddendenvineyards.com), still run by the same family fifty years on, has become highly respected, and plenty of others have now followed in their pioneering footsteps. The Southeast of England is now full of vineyards, and the good news for visitors is that many are still small enough for you to get a real sense of how they’re run. In many cases, your tour guide will be someone who works to produce the wine.

Take Oastbrook (www.oastbrook.com), for example: a small, family-run vineyard in the Sussex countryside. It was only established in 2018, so while the vines grow they’re working with another winemaker to produce a limited number of sparkling wines. You can stay here in a hobbit house (as charming as it sounds), take a personal tour with the Anglo-Brazilian family and their dog to see how the vineyard is coming along, and admire the quirky oast house – a traditional building for drying hops – in which they live by the vines. It’s a fascinating way to get real insight into the industry.

A five-minute drive away, in the shadow of Bodiam Castle, you’ll find the scenic 22-acre Sedlescombe estate, where England’s oldest organic vineyard (www.englishorganicwine. co.uk) produces only organic and biodynamic wines. Continue a little further – about half an hour’s drive – and you’ll come to Gusbourne (www.gusbourne.com), a winery known for its fine craftsmanship and quality.

On your way back to Oastbrook you could stop off at Chapel Down to wander the vineyard and herb garden.

The Southeast has an amazing density and variety of vineyards, offering you the chance

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PHOTOS: © JEFF GILBERT/ALAMY/COLLINS JOANNE

This picture: The cabinet designed

by Walpole for his miniatures.

Below: A delicate miniature of an unknown lady c1595

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SOUTHEAST ENGLAND

VINEYARD ESSENTIALS Do your research Some vineyards are open daily, while others arrange tours only with groups – always check in advance.

The www.winecellardoor.co.uk website and app are invaluable, with a map and directory of every vineyard open to visitors in England and Wales.

Take a tour There are great suggestions for Kentish vineyard itineraries at www.winegardenofengland.co.uk, while English Wine Tasting Tours (www.englishwinetastingtours.co.uk) offer trips to both Kent and Sussex, and Hampshire Wine Tours (www.hampshiretours.net) run bespoke trips to Hampshire’s vineyards.

Insider’s tips Elisabeth’s suggestions for making the most out of your vineyard visit: l The new-found confidence in our wines is working well with the burgeoning local food scene, with some producers offering specially created meals with wine pairings, served at the winery.

These events are definitely worth looking out for. l While a number of vineyards are near train stations with a good service, these will often not be served by a taxi rank. Try to pre-book transport for this last stretch of the journey; vineyards should be able to recommend a local firm. l Many producers, particularly the smaller ones, don’t charge for tastings. Please do treat their time with respect and hopefully you will like their wines enough to buy at least a bottle or two.

to visit grand houses and sprawling estates, and see some of the country’s most bucolic countryside. As Elisabeth notes: “Visiting a vineyard gives you a close-up view of the beautiful southeastern counties, and an opportunity to enjoy the product of that countryside. You’ll meet interesting people and taste delicious wines. It’s such a new industry here that it will make a great talking point when you get home, too!”

But unless you have a willing designated driver, or you only visit vineyards close enough for a wobbly walk down a country lane, getting between them can be tough.

One option is to book a tour of several vineyards, or stay overnight. Denbies Wine Estate (www.denbies.co.uk), England’s largest single estate vineyard, in the rolling Surrey Hills, is opening the country’s first

vineyard hotel this spring, with 17 rooms and a new restaurant.

Alternatively, you could plan a day trip from London – there’s nowhere else in the world with so many wineries so close to the capital. As an example, you could get a train from London St Pancras station to Ashford International in just 40 minutes, from where the venerable Biddenden vineyard is a 25-minute taxi journey. A couple of hours there, another 20-minute taxi ride, and you can be at Hush Heath, with woods, meadows and some great gastropubs to explore before you head to the tasting room to try the deliciously fresh Balfour Brut Rosé. Then, it’s just a short trip to Ashford International or Maidstone East for a train back into London.

Even if you’ve only got an afternoon to spare, you can visit a quintessentially English vineyard. A 20-minute train from London Bridge station to Sevenoaks and a 20-minute taxi, and you’re at Squerryes (www.squerryes. co.uk), part of a 2500-acre estate which has been in the same family for seven generations.

There’s also a brewery on-site (Westerham).

They certainly live up to their motto: “Licet Esse Beatis”, or “Permission to be joyful”.

A vineyard visit gives you a truly unique lens through which to learn about English history, cuisine, landscape and culture. As Elisabeth puts it, “whether you’re looking to choose wine for a wedding, have a lovely countryside stroll followed by a tasting, enjoy a delicious meal overlooking vines, talk technical with a winemaker or simply have a day out doing something new, there’s a vineyard to suit you.”

PHOTOS: © MANU PALOMEQUE/WARWICK BOOKMAN

This picture: Squerryes Vineyard in the North Downs Above: You can take a guided tour at Biddenden

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HEART OF ENGLAND

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Antony Gormley's Iron: Man statue is a Birmingham landmark

PHOTO: © SIMON WINNALL/VISIT BRITAINLMAN

HEART OF ENGLAND

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Birthplace of William Shakespeare and of the Industrial Revolution, this earthy region encompasses Birmingham, Warwickshire, Herefordshire, Staffordshire, Shropshire, Coventry and Worcestershire.

Stratford-upon-Avon is the obvious honeypot: Shakespeare's home town with its quaint streets, historic houses and world-class theatre never loses its appeal. Scattered around the region are plenty of Tudor traces: chocolate-box cottages, stately homes such as Hardwick Hall, and dramatic Ludlow Castle.

The Iron Bridge spanning the River Severn is one of the world's most famous industrial landmarks, and rightly so – a turning point in design and engineering, it paved the way for the use of cast iron in structures all over the world. This part of England, once known as the 'workshop of the world', prospered on iron and coal, and later became known for its potteries – some of which still exist.

Don't miss the region's cities, most notably Birmingham, England's second largest city. Once an industrial powerhouse, it now buzzes with life and brims with culture.

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Heart of England essentials

PHOTO: © CHRIS HERRING/LOOP IMAGES

The Peak District National Park

HIGHLIGHTS

CHATSWORTH HOUSE Home of the Duke and Duchess of Devonshire, this elegant Elizabethan stately pile sits in a 35,000-acre estate in Derbyshire. As well as 30 beautifully decorated rooms to explore, it also houses the Devonshire Collection, one of Europe’s most significant art collections.

PEAK DISTRICT The first national park in England, the Peak District covers 550 miles of rolling hills, farmland and moorland: perfect terrainfor hiking, cycling and wildlife-watching.

LUDLOW This medieval market town on a cliff overlooking the River Teme is known for its beautiful architecture, including the stunning 11th-century Ludlow Castle and an array of attractive timbered buildings in the centre. The town is also famous for its food:

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gourmands from all over the country descend for the annual food festival in September.

STRATFORD-UPON-AVON The birthplace of Shakespeare, this medieval market town on the River Avon is a vibrant cultural hub for theatregoers.

WORCESTER CATHEDRAL Rising above the River Severn, this magnificent cathedral is a glorious sight, with highlights including the tomb of King John, medieval cloisters and stunning Victorian stained glass.

IRONBRIDGE GORGE Named after the world’s first iron bridge spanning the River Severn, dramatic Ironbridge Gorge in Shropshire was the birthplace of the Industrial Revolution and is now a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Its ten absorbing museums tell the story of the Industrial Revolution.

STAMFORD Doubling as Meryton in the 2005 TV adaptation of Pride and Prejudice, this charming Georgian town is regarded as the finest stone town in England.

2019 EVENTS RHS Chatsworth Flower Show Set in the awe-inspiring grounds of Chatsworth House in Derbyshire, this annual festival inspires thousands of visitors with its stunning gardens and floral displays. 5-9 June Buxton International Festival One of the UK’s leading art festivals, BIF in Derbyshire celebrates the best in opera, music and literature. 5-21 July Robin Hood Festival Set, of course, in Sherwood Forest, Nottinghamshire, this event celebrates the legend of Robin Hood with seven days of re-enactment, song, dance and storytelling.

5-11 August Ludlow Food Festival Held at Ludlow Castle, this is the oldest food festival in the UK and attracts foodies from around the world. 7-9 September Birmingham Christmas Market This is the biggest German Christmas market outside of Germany or Austria, and a huge draw for visitors at Christmastime.

15 November-23 December

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PHOTOS: © LEE BEEL/VISIT BRITAIN/GUY FARROW/VICTORIA & ALBERT MUSEUM, LONDON

LINCOLN CATHEDRAL Once described by a smitten John Ruskin as "out and out the most precious piece of architecture in the British Isles”, 11th-century Lincoln Cathedral is a sight to behold.

The Cotswold Tour Guide offers you a Tour of the Cotswolds and beyond that combines an Expert Guide, a Luxury Car & a Bespoke Itinerary Your Expert Guide will always be T he Cotswold Tour Guide himself, David, who delivers a first class service for discerning clients who require a Tour that is totally focussed on their interests

Kathy & Kent Scott at Blenheim Palace

David with clients at Sudeley Castle

If we had to choose a word to describe our experience with The Cotswold Tour Guide it would be PERFECTION! From the first inquiry to our tour ending good-byes in London, David was prompt, intuitive, and professional. He truly listened to our desires, and customized a tour through the Cotswolds that went beyond our expectations. Our only regret is that we didn't schedule a longer trip. Oh well, there's always next year! David, thanks for a brilliant time! We simply cannot thank you enough!

David has built up a solid reputation with clients who were so pleased with his service that they have written to him saying so, as did the Scotts and Seebergs.

Kent & Kathy Scott

YOUR LUXURY CAR Your Luxury car will be David's BMW XS, which combines exceptional luxury and equipment levels with reassuring four-wheel-drive. Its commanding seating position is ideal for viewing the passing sights as you tour around and includes:• Full WiFi capability that facilitates linking your phone/tablet to the web • A built-in iPad that allows access to tour enhancing functions such as Google Maps • USB charging points

David works with many international tour companies and appears on The Official Cotswold Tourism website 2019.

YOUR BESPOKE ITINERARY David will liaise with you about what you would like to see and where you would like to go and then create a bespoke itinerary that will exceed your expectations. David prides himself on the individuality of his tours. He can do so because each one always incorporates all of the following:• He doesn't have standard itineraries • There are no time limits for the tour • You won't be sharing with people you don't know • David will always be your tour guide • Collection and drop-off from wherever you are is always included in the tour

Mark & Patty Seeberg & friends at Highclere Castle (Downton Abbey)

We could not have been more pleased with the terrific personal attention David gave us. He was professional, personable, witty, and most importantly listened to the experience we desired and delivered in every way possible.

David is incredibly knowledgeable about the Cotswolds and all things English, and truly worked over-time to make our four days with him a realjoy.

He took us to several places off the beaten path where we experienced things the regular tourist would never get a chance to see.

I would highly recommend him to future travellers to England. Since returning to the States we're still talking about our drive through the English countryside with David.

As we Americans might say, "he's the real deal."

Thanks again for helping arrange such a delightful experience Mark & Patty Seeberg

• Four heated seats • Capacity for the luggage of four adults

011 44 1242 510 000 www.thecotswoldtourguide.co.uk david@thecotswoldtourguide.co.uk

R

A IVER RUNS THROUGH IT

We journey through landscapes and time following the River Avon, which gathers along its banks the stories of three momentous English battles and the nation’s greatest bard WORDS NEIL JONES

PHOTOS: © SHUTTERSTOCK

Medieval Warwick Castle stands on the site of William the Conqueror's original motte-and-bailey design

PHOTOS: © SEBASTIAN WASEK/GETTY IMAGES/ROBERT HARDING/ALAMY/ ANDREAS VON EINSIEDEL/©NATIONAL TRUST IMAGES/ILLUSTRATION: ©LAURA HALLETT

HEART OF ENGLAND

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HEART OF ENGLAND Clockwise, from far left: Anne Hathaway's cottage where William Shakespeare courted his bride-to-be; the Holy Trinity Church, site of Shakespeare's baptism and burial; Charlecote Park's ornate dining room

T

he word ‘Avon’ derives from the old Brythonic ‘abona’, meaning ‘river’, which accounts for why you will find numerous British waterways bearing the name. But there is nothing prosaic about the river known as Shakespeare’s Avon that flows for nearly 100 miles from Naseby in Northamptonshire, via Stratfordupon-Avon in Warwickshire, to Tewkesbury on the edge of the Cotswolds.

This Avon segues through idyllic villages to market towns crowned by castle or abbey. Sheer liquid history and poetry, it’s a wonderful route for a tour.

So pull on your walking boots and shadow the river www.britain-magazine.com

along the Shakespeare’s Avon Way long-distance footpath. Or hire a narrowboat (in season) and drift the 46-mile navigable section of the river from Alveston Weir above Stratford to Tewkesbury. Alternatively, simply take to the road and dip into riverside scenes.

Naseby, where the infant Avon rises, is a name now synonymous with the 1645 battle that saw Parliament’s New Model Army rout King Charles I’s main field army, hastening the end of the first instalment of the English Civil War – aficionados can follow a battlefield trail around key sites. The growing river then flirts with the Grand Union Canal and heads for Rugby, where the eponymous game was invented at the still-flourishing public school.

A few miles further downriver, Jacobean meets Baroque at stately Stoneleigh Abbey. Jane Austen visited relatives here in 1806 and reimagined the chapel and woodland walks at Sotherton Court in Mansfield Park, while scandalous tales of the secret marriage of Elizabeth Lord, whose painting hangs in the Blue Parlour, gave shape to Anne Elliot in Persuasion. Guided Jane Austen tours reveal more.

Looping onwards, the Avon winds between rolling hills before combining with the currents of England’s rich history in spectacular fashion at Warwick, founded in the 10th century to control the river valley and as a defence against Danish invaders.

Awesome medieval Warwick Castle towers over town and river and hosts the evocative Kingmaker attraction, recreating scenes from the life of the notorious Richard Neville, 16th Earl of Warwick.

“Thou setter up and plucker down of kings”, as Shakespeare described him (Henry VI, Part III), had helped Edward IV onto the throne, then changed sides and helped Henry VI to don the crown during the Wars of the Roses. Following plots in 1469, Neville held Edward prisoner at Warwick Castle and tried, unsuccessfully, to govern in his name. The Kingmaker met a violent death BRITAIN | 2019 GUIDE

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PHOTOS: © ANDREW LAWSON & THE SHAKESPEARE BIRTHPLACE TRUST/STUART BLACK/ROBERT HARDING/ANTON IVANOV/D HALE-SUTTON/ALAMY

A commemorative garden now grows on the original site of Shakespeare's family home New Place Right: Shakespeare's Birthplace is open to visitors who can view tools of his father's glovemaking trade

two years later. You can hire a boat (Easter-September) and float from St Nicholas Park along the river right beneath the castle, but do leave time to explore Warwick’s captivating medieval and 17th- and 18th-century streetscapes. Then head for Charlecote Park, a mellow redbrick house that’s still the Lucy family home after 900 years, which offers a picnicking and walking heaven of riverside meadows, with free-roaming deer and the occasional darting kingfisher.

Legend says a wayward young Will Shakespeare, caught poaching here, was hauled before the local magistrate Sir Thomas Lucy and later took dramatic revenge by ridiculing Lucy as fussy Justice Shallow in The Merry Wives of Windsor and Henry IV, Part II. Whatever the truth, we are now reaching the heart of Shakespeare country, with weeping-willow-fringed riverbanks, gliding swans and bobbing ducks. Pretty riverside villages sprinkled around his Stratfordupon-Avon birth town boast quirky tales. Did the suspicious drowning of Katherine Hamnet in 1579, and disinterment of her body from Alveston church for a fresh post-mortem, reach the ears of a teenage Shakespeare, and later inspire the graveyard scene in Hamlet or descriptions of Ophelia’s drowning? Did Will marry Anne Hathaway at Luddington in 1582, as is romantically claimed?

Drop into the flagstoned Bell Inn at Welford-onAvon (the original chocolate-box village of thatched cottages and maypole) and imagine Shakespeare supping here with fellow playwright-poets Ben Jonson and Michael Drayton; it’s said Will caught pneumonia on his trudge home. Or picture the

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HEART OF ENGLAND Bard sleeping off a boozy night under a tree at Bidford-on-Avon: not quite the elegant image of the ‘Sweet Swan of Avon’ conjured up by Jonson.

In between such villages we come to Stratfordupon-Avon and the must-visit Shakespeare family homes, including Shakespeare’s Birthplace, which doubled as the glover’s workshop of his father John and where costumed guides evoke Will’s childhood.

Also make the pilgrimage to the medieval waterside Holy Trinity Church where he was baptised (1564) and buried (1616) – his memorial bust is believed to be a very good likeness. River cruises connect with the Stratford-upon-Avon Canal and a storming performance at the Royal Shakespeare Theatre rounds off a day nicely.

Now the Avon flows on to Evesham and Pershore, taking us into fertile lands of fruit-growing, spring blossom trails and summer festivals celebrating river and plums (with delicacies such as plum iced tea and plum sausages). In Evesham’s Abbey Park a memorial remembers ‘pioneer of representative government’ Simon de Montfort, who was brutally killed at the Battle of Evesham in 1265, halfway through the Barons’ Wars against Henry III that sought to limit royal power. Follow the battle trail and delve into

The Avon segues through idyllic villages to market towns crowned by castle or abbey. Sheer liquid history and poetry, it’s a wonderful route for a tour

This picture: pretty Evesham Right: Regency properties on Pershore High Street

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For more Shakespearean sites, see www.britainmagazine.com/ Shakespeare

PHOTO: © STUART BLACK/ROBERT HARDING

HEART OF ENGLAND

THE PLANNER GETTING AROUND For information on walking the 88-mile Shakespeare’s Avon Way see www.shakespearesavonway.org The Avon is navigable over 46 miles from Alveston Weir above Stratford-upon-Avon to Tewkesbury. Hire a narrowboat from Starline Narrowboats or Valley Cruises. www.starlinenarrowboats.co.uk; www.valleycruises.co.uk WHERE TO STAY For a treat, stay in a Tower Suite in the 14th-century Caesar’s Tower at Warwick Castle. Woodland lodges and medieval-themed glamping are also available. www.warwick-castle.com WHERE TO EAT Good enough for Shakespeare, The Bell Inn, Welford-on-Avon, serves tasty fare such as sirloin steak with hand-cut chips. www.thebellwelford.co.uk EVENTS Catch the annual April pageantry that fills Stratford-upon-Avon for Shakespeare’s birthday, with festivities across town and a costumed procession featuring the Bard (next held 25-26 April 2020). www.shakespearescelebrations.com

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Above: Abbey Mill in Tewkesbury is set on the banks of the River Avon

local history in the higgledy-piggledy 14th-century Almonry, among surviving buildings that recall Evesham’s once-great abbey.

Downriver at Tewkesbury, where Shakespeare’s Avon flows into Elgar’s Severn amid water meadows, another mighty battle took place in 1471, providing the House of York with a resounding victory over the House of Lancaster in the Wars of the Roses, effectively securing Edward IV’s throne. Another battle trail beckons, and there’s a lively medieval festival and re-enactment each summer.

In the magnificent abbey the Sun-in-Splendour badge of Edward IV and the House of York looks down on the burial place of the defeated Lancastrian Edward, Prince of Wales. “Now is the winter of our discontent/Made glorious summer by this sun of York”, as Shakespeare wrote in Richard III. Tewkesbury’s beguiling medieval streetscapes and curious alleyways are dotted with welcoming tearooms and pubs. Henry VIII, visiting the town in 1535, was allegedly presented with Tewkesbury Mustard Balls specially covered in gold leaf, and the kingly condiment became so famous that even Shakespeare wrote of “wit as thick as Tewkesbury mustard” (Henry IV, Part II). Try some – with or without edible gold embellishment – to add a fiery finale to your tour. www.britain-magazine.com

EAST OF ENGLAND

EAST OF ENGLAND

Famous for its wide, open skies and tranquil landscapes, the East of England encompasses Hertfordshire, Bedfordshire, Cambridgeshire, Norfolk, Suffolk and Essex. The linear landscape of the Fens, a huge coastal plain stretching across much of the area, makes this an area rich in wildlife.

The region has inspired many an artist and composer – most notably Romantic painter John Constable, who set his evocative pastoral scenes here, and Benjamin Britten, one-time resident of Suffolk, whose legacy is Snape Maltings, an internationally important concert hall and cultural hub.

The area also boasts some stunning architecture.

Two of the country's finest cathedrals – Ely and St Albans – are worth the visit alone, while you could easily while away a day admiring the colleges and churches of Cambridge.

Cultural corners apart, this is classic bucket-and-spade territory: beautiful beaches and resorts with the nostalgic seasidey tang of holidays past. Flop on the glorious golden sand of Holkham Beach, stroll down Southwold's pier or treat yourself to world-class fish and chips in Aldeburgh.

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The Black Beacon and Power House at Orford Ness National Nature Reserve, Suffolk.

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King's College, Cambridge backs on to the River Cam

ELY CATHEDRAL Considered one of the marvels of the medieval world, Ely Cathedral is magnificent to behold. Admire the Octagon – a gravity-defying 14th-century oak, lead and stone tower – and take in the 13th-century Quire and 14th-century Lady Chapel, the largest of its kind in the UK.

the 14th century. The town boasts 320 listed buildings – and almost as many photo opportunities.

NORFOLK BROADS Britain’s largest area of wetland, the man-made Norfolk Broads are a network of 125 miles of navigable waterways amidst peaceful countryside.

HOLKHAM BEACH Arguably the UK’s prettiest beach, this unspoilt stretch of golden sand in Norfolk is breathtaking.

FISH AND CHIPS IN ALDEBURGH Where better to enjoy this traditional staple than in a quintessential British seaside town? Aldeburgh Fish & Chips is considered by many to be the best chippy in the country.

LAVENHAM The picturesque medieval wool village of Lavenham in Suffolk, famed for its colourful and crooked timber-framed houses, hasn't changed much since

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ST ALBANS CATHEDRAL This beautiful cathedral is Britain's oldest site of continuous Christian worship and has the longest nave of any church in England.

SOUTHWOLD Jewel of the Suffolk coast, this nostalgic seaside town is worth a visit for its traditional pier, lighthouse and colourful beach huts.

CAMBRIDGE The city may be famous for its prestigious university, but it’s a gem in its own right. Admire the exquisite architecture of the colleges and churches, punt on the River Cam or picnic in one of the city's leafy parks. You won't want to leave.

2019 EVENTS Aldeburgh Festival This internationally famous classical music festival puts on both new and old works in the impressive concert hall of Snape Maltings. 7-23 June Royal Norfolk Show The county’s biggest event, celebrating food, farming and the countryside. 26-27 June King’s Lynn Festival The Norfolk town comes alive during this music and arts festival with free jazz and classical performances. 14-27 July Cambridge Folk Festival One of the world's longest running folk festivals, attracting thousands to beautiful Cherry Hinton Hall. 1-4 August Grand Henham Steam Rally This Suffolk rally has hundreds of displays and, of course, steam trains. 21-22 September Aldeburgh Food and Drink Festival A celebration of Suffolk’s food with workshops and demos. 28-29 September

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PHOTOS: © LEE BEEL/VISIT BRITAIN/GUY FARROW/VICTORIA & ALBERT MUSEUM, LONDON

HIGHLIGHTS

PHOTOS: © JUSTIN MINNS/NATIONALTRUST IMAGES/ROB ELLIS

East of England essentials

EAST OF ENGLAND

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EAST OF ENGLAND

Beside the Seaside With its big skies, timeless villages and beautiful beaches, the Suffolk coast never fails to cast a spell WORDS EDWARD AVES

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EAST OF ENGLAND

PHOTOS: © EYE35.PIX/TERRY MATHEWS/JULIA GAVIN/ALAMY

S

lumbering contentedly beneath the vast, everchanging East Anglian skies captured so vividly by Constable and Turner, sleepy Suffolk lies within striking distance of London’s perpetual thrust, yet seems to belong to another, simpler era.

England’s Industrial Revolution never quite made it this far east, and with no big cities and few major roads, Suffolk remains, by and large, one of its most unspoiled counties – a serene, pastoral idyll, dotted with thriving market towns and pretty pastel-hued villages.

Cut by estuaries that snake deep inland, with a subtle and varied landscape that ranges from windswept heath and swaying reed marshes to crumbling cliffs and lonely shingle spits, the Suffolk coast feels surprisingly wild and remote. Coastal roads keep their distance from the shore, and journeys require navigating a maze of country lanes, making this a region that best rewards those with time and patience to explore.

In between its wild stretches, the coast harbours a string of handsome seaside towns, long places for genteel folk to take the air. Breathe in your first restorative dose at cultured Southwold, a quintessentially English resort with its grand Regency villas, glorious expanses of golden sand, and brightly painted beach huts.

Southwold has a pier, too – immaculately restored, and unexpectedly home to the most winningly inventive www.britain-magazine.com

Previous page: The quintessentially English resort of Southwold Left: The tranquil village of Walberswick Above: Holy Trinity in Blythburgh

games arcade in the country. Brainchild of an eccentric engineer, Tim Hunkin, the Under the Pier Show’s homespun, retro machines gently lampoon the trials of modern life, from the struggles of getting on the housing ladder to the perennially popular “Whack a banker”.

Southwold was once Suffolk’s busiest fishing port, and mementoes of maritime history dot its seafront promenade and spacious greens. Don’t miss the dinky Sailor’s Reading Room, hung with all manner of absorbing nauticalia. Part brick chapel, part maritime museum, it was built by a worthy Victorian widow to exhort local mariners to swap booze for books, and remains an oasis of stillness and calm.

Bobbing with fishing smacks and flanked by blacktarred fishermen’s huts, the town’s diminutive harbour echoes the seafaring heritage at the mouth of the River Blyth, south of town.

For £1, the ferryman will row you across the estuary to the tranquil village of Walberswick. Long a retreat for artistic types (film director Richard Curtis has a house here), it provided inspiration in the 19th century to a flourishing artists’ colony, led by the Impressionist Philip Wilson Steer.

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from the medieval wool trade. Few are more steeped in history and legend than tiny Blythburgh’s majestic Holy Trinity, which rises loftily from the marshes like a stranded ship a few miles inland along the Blyth.

A true survivor, it’s withstood electrical storms, Puritan musket fire and even, say the credulous, a brush with the devil – in the form of Black Shuck, a ghostly, fiendish hound said to roam these parts, which left its blackened scorch marks on the church’s north door to this day.

The tides of time have been less kind to the eerie, isolated hamlet of Dunwich, back on the coast four miles to the south. Once a thriving medieval port, Dunwich fell prey over the centuries to the greed of the ocean – an ever-present hazard on the east coast – which swallowed the last of its eight churches in 1919.

The evocative ruins of Greyfriars, once a Franciscan monastery, are now all that remain of Dunwich’s medieval heyday, though thankfully there’s a welcoming pub, The Ship, from which to banish any feelings of gloom.

Continuing south, the gorse- and heather-swept slopes of Dunwich Heath segue seamlessly with the prime birdwatching site of Minsmere Reserve, where avocets and oystercatchers breed in the brackish lagoons, and the whispering reedbeds hide the elusive bittern. Rejoining the coast requires a winding detour inland.

Your reward is beloved little Aldeburgh, which vies with Southwold for the title of Suffolk’s comeliest seaside town.

A picturesque Georgian high street, filled with enticing places to shop and eat (the fish and chip shop here is

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Right: Southwold beach Below: Aldeburgh

among the nation’s best), is reason enough to visit. But for Aldeburgh – still home to a few fisher folk, who sell their daily catch from black-tarred huts on the beach – the story starts and ends (one day, inevitably) with the sea.

It was the sea that lured Suffolk-born Benjamin Britten, perhaps England’s greatest composer, to make this then unfashionable resort his home, and inspired his most gripping work, Peter Grimes. The opera’s first orchestral interlude sublimely evokes the shingle hiss, pierced by the high-pitched cries of circling herring gulls, that accompanies a wander along Aldeburgh’s pebbly foreshore.

Britten’s legacy lives on at the Red House, the rambling farmhouse on the edge of town that preserves his archive and impressive art collection, and, above all, in the festival of music he established in the 1940s, now one of the focal points of the classical calendar. Performances are put on throughout the year at the Snape Maltings Concert Hall, a former malthouse a few miles inland along the River Alde – which, both for acoustics and bucolic setting, ranks among the country’s finest venues.

The coastal stretch south of Aldeburgh, cut off between the meandering River Alde and the shifting stones of Orford Ness’s ten-mile shingle spit, feels otherworldly in its isolation – tranquil heaven for flat-track cyclists and lovers of long, contemplative walks.

The Alde becomes the Ore at somnolent little Orford, where the heavily fortified keep of a 12th-century castle built by Henry II still stands sentinel. Once you’ve

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PHOTOS: © JAMES THOMAS/PAUL WILLIAMS/ALAMY

EAST OF ENGLAND

EAST OF ENGLAND

Suffolk remains one of England’s most unspoilt counties – a serene, pastoral idyll, dotted with thriving market towns and pretty pastel-hued villages

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EAST OF ENGLAND

PHOTOS: © PETER BARRITT/ALAMY/ANGUS WAINWRIGHT/NATIONAL TRUST IMAGES

Left: Orford Castle Below: A reconstruction of the Anglo-Saxon helmet from Sutton Hoo

soaked up the spectacular views from its lofty battlements, wander down to Orford’s breezy quay to pick up oak-smoked delicacies from Pinney’s, a superb local family-run smokehouse.

The Suffolk coast concludes at the container port of Felixstowe, where the giant cranes and cargo vessels come as something of a shock, but our journey ends with a seagoing vessel laden with more ancient treasures.

Beneath a sandy heath at Sutton Hoo, near the attractive market town of Woodbridge, the excavation of a seventhcentury ship burial containing the astonishing funerary horde of an Anglo-Saxon king rocked the archeological world eighty years ago.

Many of Sutton Hoo’s treasures are now in the British Museum but a superb exhibition at the site – due to reopen this summer following a £4 million makeover – pieces together what’s known of the story. Yet, with no royal grave ever found, the identity of this Beowulfian king remains uncertain. It’s a mystery worthy of this enigmatic coastline.  For more beautiful places to discover in Suffolk, visit www.britainmagazine.com/suffolk

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THE PLANNER GETTING THERE Stations on the pretty East Suffolk branch line, which runs a few miles inland parallel to the coast between Ipswich (served by regular Norwich trains from London Liverpool Street; 1hr 15min) and Lowestoft, provide a gateway to coastal towns (Darsham for Southwold; Saxmundham for Aldeburgh), though you’ll need to prebook a taxi to travel onward.

WHERE TO STAY Tucked discreetly behind Aldeburgh’s seafront parade, the classy Wentworth Hotel oozes old-fashioned charm, with ample sofas for cosying up with a book, roaring fires and gorgeous sea views. wentworth-aldeburgh.com WHERE TO EAT Orford’s Butley Oysterage keeps things simple, serving exquisitely fresh fish, immaculately cooked, in a no-frills interior unchanged in half a century. A relaxed gastropub, The Unruly Pig showcases exceptional local produce given an Italian twist in a 16th-century inn at Bromeswell, near Sutton Hoo. pinneysoforford.co.uk/restaurant; theunrulypig.co.uk

i

FURTHER INFORMATION visitsuffolk.com; thesuffolkcoast.co.uk

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Come and experience one of the Wonders of the Medieval World

• • • • • •

Daily Ground Floor Tours Guided Tower Tours Restaurant & Café Gift Shops Stained Glass Museum Celebrated Film Location (The King’s Speech, The Crown) • Choral Evensong • Located only 15 miles from Cambridge

Photos: Timothy Selvage, James Billings, Alex Bailey / Netflix.

Open Daily from 7am 01353 660349 www.elycathedral.org

NORTHERN ENGLAND

NORTHERN ENGLAND

Covering a huge swathe of the country, the North holds an enormous variety of attractions, with historic castles and cathedrals, magnificently craggy landscapes, sandy beaches and dynamic cities.

Encompassing Cheshire, Cumbria, Northumberland, Lancashire, Yorkshire, Durham, Tyne & Wear, Manchester and Liverpool, this is a traditional region, once known for its manufacturing prowess. Former mines, docks and factories are still, in many cases, the spiritual heart of the towns.

Visitors flock to Northumberland, drawn by the medieval castles that scatter the county. Nearby Durham is home to a historic university and a magnificent cathedral. York, further south, is a wonderful heritage city established by the Vikings and encircled by medieval walls. The northeast coast harbours beguiling towns including Whitby, whose ruined abbey provided inspiration for Bram Stoker’s Dracula, and Staithes, once home to Captain Cook.

If it's beautiful landscapes you're after, look no further than Yorkshire's scenic Dales and Moors, which famously inspired the BrontĂŤ sisters, and the tranquil beauty of the Lake District.

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Medieval Alnwick Castle in Northumberland

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Shambles Square in Manchester

PHOTOS: © ROY RAINFORD/ROBERT HARDING

Northern England essentials

HIGHLIGHTS

LAKE DISTRICT England’s largest national park is also the home of the tallest mountain in England, Scafell Pike, and the deepest lake, Wastwater. This Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty has inspired writers and poets alike.

Visit Beatrix Potter’s home at Hill Top or Wordsworth’s family home, Dove Cottage.

HADRIAN’S WALL This UNESCO World Heritage Site, which stretches for 73 miles, was once the Northwest frontier of the Roman Empire. Walks across it offer magnificent views of the surrounding landscape.

DURHAM CATHEDRAL This 11th-century cathedral set high on a rocky promontory is the finest example of Norman architecture in England.

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FOUNTAINS ABBEY One of England's best preserved monastic ruins, Fountains Abbey is a truly atmospheric sight. After visiting the ruins, make sure to walk round Studley Royal Water Garden, a stunning landscaped masterpiece of canals, ponds and cascades.

LIVERPOOL The birthplace of the Beatles, Liverpool is a cultural capital with more museums and galleries than anywhere in the UK outside of London.

YORK Whether you're taking in the views from the top of York Minster, seeing Queen Victoria’s royal carriage at the National Railway Museum, wandering the medieval Shambles or placing bets at York Racecourse, there’s something for everyone in York. For a breath of fresh air, Yorkshire's stunning Moors and Dales are within easy reach.

WHITBY Famous as the inspiration for Bram Stoker’s Dracula and as the town where Captain Cook trained as a seaman, this seaside town is also celebrated for its stunning beaches and mouthwatering fish and chips.

2019 EVENTS Seafest Maritime Festival Feast on seafood as you celebrate the Yorkshire coast’s seafaring history at this foodie festival in Scarborough, with plenty of stalls and cookery demos. 26-28 July Castle Howard Proms This spectacular classical concert in the grounds of Castle Howard, North Yorkshire, is a memorable musical experience. 3 August Harrogate Flower Show One of the top gardening shows in the country, this event is a great source of inspiration for gardeners, with floral displays, live demos and a giant vegetable competition. 13-15 September Light Up Lancaster A two-day festival of light, art and fireworks.

Walk the after-dark trail before watching the fireworks finale from the grounds of Lancaster Castle. 1-2 November Ulverston Dickensian Festival Thousands dress up to celebrate the Dickensian era at this popular annual festival in Cumbria. 23-24 November

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PHOTOS: © LEE BEEL/VISIT BRITAIN/GUY FARROW/VICTORIA & ALBERT MUSEUM, LONDON

MANCHESTER This vibrant city is not just home to the most famous football club in the world. It’s got stunning art and architecture, including the John Ryland Library, Manchester Cathedral and the award-winning Whitworth Art Gallery; great shops and nightlife; and beautiful countryside right on its doorstep.

Six family owned hotels situated in picturesque town centre and stunning lakeside locations.

The loveliest spot that man hath found William Wordsworth

Stay two nights dinner, bed and breakfast from

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enjoy a glass of hot mulled apple cider and slice of Autumn cake on arrival

Book now 0800 840 1240 www.lakedistricthotels.net/offers *Price is per person based on two people sharing a room at the Kings Arms Hotel, Keswick.

Offer available from 1st September – 30th November 2019. Subject to availability. Other offers are available throughout the year.

NORTHERN ENGLAND

On the

WordsworthTrail

Following in the footsteps of William Wordsworth, we explore the poet's beloved Grasmere – ‘The most loveliest spot that man hath found’ – and other Lake District haunts WORDS LAWRENCE ALEXANDER

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NORTHERN ENGLAND Clockwise from right: The tranquil landscape of the Lakes; a painting of Wordsworth’s dog at Dove Cottage; Rydal Mount; the poet

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n the evening of 15 April 1802, Dorothy Wordsworth, sister of the poet William, wrote her journal as usual. They had enjoyed a wonderful day.

Walking home from visiting friends, the pair had passed through Glencoyne Bay, Ullswater, and witnessed a now-famous sight.

Dorothy recalled that the daffodils “tossed and reeled and danced, and seemed as if they verily laughed with the wind that blew upon them over the lake”.

That day became a seed for one of the most famous poems in the English language: William Wordsworth’s I Wandered Lonely as a Cloud, written in 1804.

Although well-travelled, Wordsworth never ceased to be inspired by his native Cumbria. He was born in Cockermouth on 7 April 1770, in what is now Wordsworth House.

His father was a land agent, and his early years were happy. He, his two brothers and his sister Dorothy developed a passion for nature in their back garden. The

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house now belongs to the National Trust after narrowly avoiding demolition to make way for a bus garage, and is presented in a way the poet himself would recognise.

A fi re burns in the grate, while food is prepared in the kitchen. Upstairs, the children’s bedroom is filled with toys and laughter.

Wordsworth’s laughter wasn’t to last. His mother died when he was eight; his father five years later.

The young boy went to school in Hawkshead, a classic Lakes village that has hardly changed since his day. Cobbled streets lined with higgledy-piggledy whitewashed cottages lead through arches into tiny courtyards and flower-filled squares.

Hawkshead Grammar School, founded in 1585 and now a museum, makes for a fascinating visit, and not just for its most famous pupil – the desks alone, etched by generations of schoolboys, speak down through the ages.

Hawkshead is a car-free zone so it’s possible to wander as Wordsworth himself

PHOTOS: © ARCANGELO PIAI/4CORNERS IMAGES/ISTOCK/JUDY THOMAS/VISITBRITAIN/ILLUSTRATION: © MICHAEL A. HILL

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NORTHERN ENGLAND

would have done, albeit not ‘lonely as a cloud’: it’s extremely popular in peak season.

In 1795, after studying at St John’s College, Cambridge, Wordsworth received a bequest of £900, allowing him to pursue his dream: a literary career. He and Dorothy went travelling in Dorset, where they met Samuel Taylor Coleridge, who went on to become a close friend and literary collaborator.

Touring the Lake District, William and Dorothy happened upon an abandoned inn in Grasmere. Smitten, they moved in, in December 1799. Dove Cottage, as they named it, was no palace. Built in the early 17th century from local stone, it had plain, lime-washed walls, slate floors and roof, and no running water.

However, the cottage’s bucolic surroundings energised the pair. Dorothy acted as William’s secretary as he dictated poetry. She also wrote for herself, an intimate account of their lives: the Grasmere Journals. The steep fell-side garden was “a little domestic slip of mountain” to the nature-loving Wordsworths, filled with bluebells, foxgloves and, of course, daffodils.

The Wordsworth Trust was founded in 1891, early enough to preserve Dove Cottage as it was. A guided tour reveals the living room, kitchen and buttery, Dorothy’s bedroom and William’s study. A museum houses manuscripts, books and paintings.

Next door, the Jerwood Gallery is the long-term home for a collection that comprises 90 percent of Wordsworth’s letters, journals and poems. A £4.1m grant for the major Reimagining Wordsworth project has ensured that by 2020 – the 250th anniversary of the poet’s birth – the cottage and collection will be presented in their most authentic manner yet.

In the eyes of the Wordsworths, Dove Cottage had but one fault: it was tiny. William had married his childhood sweetheart Mary Hutchinson in October 1802 and the couple would have three of their five children in the cottage.

Dorothy had continued to live with them and in addition, a steady stream of friends came to stay: Coleridge, Sir Walter Scott, Thomas de Quincey and Robert Southey were all house guests here. Dove Cottage was “crammed edge-full”.

Something had to give; that something was the Wordsworths.

Allan Bank was not love at first sight – William had called it an eyesore while the Georgian house was still under construction. The family lived there for two years, but the

GRASMERE GINGERBREAD Sadly, William Wordsworth never tasted Grasmere’s most famous sweet treat, gingerbread; it was invented in 1854, two years after his death. Its creator, Sarah Nelson, lived in Grasmere, baking for the area’s larger houses, while her husband Wilfred dug graves in St Oswald’s Church (where Wordsworth lies). Her chewy, spiced half-cake-half-biscuit, sold from a tabletop on top of a tree stump outside her front door, was an instant hit. The secret recipe, known to just one person, is still baked daily from the same shop. www.grasmeregingerbread.co.uk

THE PLANNER GETTING THERE The closest station to Grasmere is Windermere, served by the branch rail line from Oxenholme, which has direct services from London Euston (journey time 3-4 hours). The 555 bus stops at Windermere and Grasmere. www.thetrainline.com WHERE TO STAY “Who does not know the famous Swan?” asked Wordsworth in his poem The Waggoner. Built as a coaching inn in 1650, the Swan is one of the region’s oldest hotels. After a day’s exploring, hikers can enjoy a glass of local ale by the fireside in the cosy bar. www.macdonaldhotels.co.uk

chimneys smoked and the couple fell out with the landlord.

They had always loved the views more than the house itself.

Allan Bank was given to the National Trust in 1920 but suffered a terrible fire in 2011. Today, semi-restored, it is presented in an unfinished state, inviting visitors to suggest what they would like to see here, including paint colours for the interior and planting designs for the garden.

In 1813, the Wordsworths moved to tranquil Rydal Mount, where they would live for the rest of their lives.

With its glorious views of Rydal Water, the setting of the house was endlessly inspiring.

By the 1820s, critical acclaim for Wordsworth’s poetry had grown, and tourists travelled to the area clutching books of his works. In 1843, he received the ultimate literary accolade when he was made the nation’s poet laureate – official poet to the Royal household.

Still owned by the Wordsworth family, Rydal Mount retains a lived-in atmosphere, with personal possessions and portraits dotted throughout. Five acres of gardens burst with rare shrubs, terraces, lawns and rock pools. After the tragic death of their daughter Dora in 1847 – the third of their five children to die young – William and Mary planted hundreds of daffodils in her memory, on a patch of land next to St Mary’s church in Rydal. Every spring, Dora’s Field still shimmers with gold.

Almost everywhere in the Lake District claims a link with Wordsworth. With 70,000 lines of verse, so many of which celebrate the natural history of his beloved home county, his cultural legacy is widely felt. In 2017, the region was awarded UNESCO World Heritage Site status, thanks in no small part to the inspiration its beauty has provided to artists and writers, most notably William Wordsworth.

Perhaps the most-visited site is Wordsworth’s final resting place. In the poet’s time, St Oswald’s Church, Grasmere, was “almost wholly free/From interruption of sepulchral stones”. It was not so for long. After Wordsworth caught a cold while taking a walk, he died on 23 April 1850, St George’s Day. William, his wife Mary, his sister Dorothy and three of his children are buried together in the peaceful churchyard, in the shade of one of the yew trees planted by the poet himself.  For more literary travel ideas, visit www.britain-magazine.com

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PHOTOS: © GETTY/GALLO IMAGES

Clockwise from top left: St Oswald's Church; Grasmere; Dorothy’s bedroom at Wordsworth House; Dove Cottage; Rydal Mount; Dorothy enthused about daffodils in her diary

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WALES

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The River Conwy in Snowdonia

WALES Wales has more castles per square mile than anywhere else in the world, thanks in part to Edward I, whose 'Iron Ring' of magnificent fortresses represent Europe’s most ambitious military building project. There’s plenty of scope for a castle-topping tour of Wales – there are 600 to choose from – but it would be a shame to miss Wales’s humbler charms.

Dip in anywhere along the 870-mile Wales Coast Path, the first in the world to follow a country’s coastline in its entirety, for scenery to swoon over.

The picturesque villages of Pembrokeshire and the vast beaches of the Gower peninsula are highlights.

For romance, head to Snowdonia National Park, whose rugged beauty inspired JMW Turner, among many other artists. The panoramic train ride to the top of Snowdon is one of Wales’s great experiences. For more majestic mountain scenery, the Brecon Beacons further south never disappoint.

Finally, a trip to Cardiff, Wales’s charismatic capital on the south coast, will reward you with fascinating history, excellent shopping and an exciting cultural calendar.

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WALES

Wales essentials 2019 EVENTS Hay Festival Writers, poets, scientists, comedians and musicians come together to talk, eat, think and drink at this world-famous annual literature festival in Hay-on-Wye, Powys.

23 May-2 June Pembrokeshire Fish Week This fishy event is held for 9 days every summer, attracting seafood lovers for a host of activities from fishing competitions to cooking demonstrations. 22-30 June The Big Cheese Held at Caerphilly Castle in South Wales, this annual festival celebrates food and drink from across the country, including a delicious cheese market. There’s also music, dancing and a funfair. 26-28 July Eisteddfod During the first week of August this touring festival celebrates Welsh arts and culture.

Some of the country’s leading writers, musicians and poets compete. 3-10 August Green Man Festival Set against the beautiful backdrop of the Brecon Beacons, this festival is a chance to enjoy indie and alternative music, as well as good beer and fun activities. 15-18 August Abergavenny Food Festival Chefs, farmers and food writers feature at this culinary celebration in Monmouthshire.

21-22 September

PHOTOS: © ROB RADLINKSI/VISIT BRITAIN/PAUL WILLIAMS/ALAMY

Beaumaris Castle, part of Edward I's 'Iron Ring'

SNOWDONIA Wales’s largest national park, Snowdonia covers 823 square miles of spectacular landscapes. As well as Wales’s highest mountain, Mount Snowdon, there are some lovely, scenic villages to visit, including Betws-y-Coed and Beddgelert.

TENBY This picture-perfect seaside town in Pembrokeshire has glorious beaches and a charming medieval core. A 20-minute boat trip away, Caldey Island was settled by Celtic monks in the 6th century.

BRECON BEACONS NATIONAL PARK Whether it’s climbing the highest peak at Pen-y-Fan, wandering through the cave system at Dan-yr-Ogof or stargazing at this Dark Sky Reserve, there are few better places for exploring the great outdoors than South Wales's Brecon Beacons National Park.

CONWY From a colossal 13th-century castle to the smallest house in Britain, this UNESCO World Heritage Site is bursting with things to do. The scenic medieval town boasts a stunning harbour and suspension bridge. It is close to some of Wales’ prettiest beaches and surrounded by gorgeous countryside.

CAERNARFON CASTLE Built by Edward I as part of his 'Iron Ring', mighty Caernarfon, with its sturdy walls and polygonal towers, is one of Wales’s most impressive castles.

PORTMEIRION With stunning views, colourful gardens and amazing architecture, this Italian-inspired village built by Sir Clough Williams-Ellis in the 20th century is a sight to

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behold. The village's quirky buildings in ice-cream colours are now heritage-listed.

CARDIFF Wales’ capital is fast becoming one of the UK's top cities for shopping, food and entertainment. With fifteen castles within an hour's drive, it's the perfect base for a tour of Wales's famous fortresses, starting with the medieval Cardiff Castle, right in the centre of town.

ANGLESEY Off Wales's north coast, Anglesey is known for its unspoilt coastline and outstanding natural beauty. On the must-see list are the Menai Suspension Bridge, stunning Llandwyn Island – a picturesque outcrop jutting out from the mainland – and 13th-century Beaumaris Castle, Edward I's last great fortress. www.britain-magazine.com

PHOTOS: © LEE BEEL/VISIT BRITAIN/GUY FARROW/VICTORIA & ALBERT MUSEUM, LONDON

HIGHLIGHTS

HIKING HOLIDAYS IN WALES

Explore the spectacular scenery, history and wildlife of the Pembrokeshire and Ceredigion Coasts Daily guided walks with Welsh speaking guide.

Full-board with home-cooked food and wine, log fires, croquet, coracling.

Relaxed house-party atmosphere. 7, 6 or 4 night breaks.

Singles, couples & groups all welcome.

Short breaks also available in the Brecon Beacons.

10% reduction on aull holidays if yo quote Britain Magazine

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www.dragontrails.com

WALES

View of the Glamorgan Heritage Coast

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WALES

GLORY OF GLAMORGAN PHOTO: © CW IMAGES/ALAMY

The Vale of Glamorgan, an easy hop from Cardiff, offers stunning landscapes, fascinating history and a warm Welsh welcome WORDS SALLY HALES

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WALES Clockwise from top: the White Tower; the red uniform is for State occasions, blue for everyday; Inner Ward; chapel

of St John the Evangelist; Pete McGowran with Yeoman Gaoler Bob Loughlin Bottom right: Tower Green

PHOTOS: © ANDREW BUTLER/NATIONAL TRUST IMAGES/PATRICK OLNER/VISIT WALES

Clockwise from this image: The house at Dyffryn; the gardens; Cowbridge Physic Garden; Penarth Pier

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F

or many, Glamorgan in South Wales conjures images of its mighty 19th-century coal and steel industry when, still encapsulating its county town of Cardiff, it was the ‘engine of the empire’. One of the 13 historic Welsh counties, Glamorgan was formed by the 1536 Act of Union.

Today, the name only officially lives on in the Vale of Glamorgan, a dramatic coastal county divorced from major urban centres and largely rural in nature, which stretches from elegant Penarth, Cardiff’s Victorian seaside sister town in the east, to Ogmore Vale in the west.

The Vale is Wales’ wealthiest and most sophisticated region – home to the country homes of high-flying city workers – but largely overlooked by visitors as they zip by en route from the bright lights of the capital, Cardiff, west towards the country’s more celebrated coastal charms.

But it’s worth putting on the brakes to explore its historic towns and villages and breathtaking coastline. The open skies and sweeping sea views along the 14 miles of Glamorgan Heritage Coast – from Nash Point lighthouse’s lookout, dramatic Dunraven Bay, the beaches of Southerndown and estuarial splendour of Ogmore, among other spots – are loved by locals but untroubled by tourists.

By far the best way to explore is on foot, made easy by the Wales Coast Path. And, when you need a breather, The Vale’s pretty villages and sophisticated towns are never more than a stone’s throw away.

A few miles south of Cardiff, Penarth makes an elegant introduction to the region. This Victorian seaside town boasts a smart esplanade and excellent restaurants, but its crowning glory is its pier. Built in 1894, it is one of the last remaining Victorian piers in Wales. It hosts the worldfamous Penarth Elvis Festival every September, when the town fills with Elvis impersonators: a sight to behold.

Hop over to Dyffryn, just a few miles west, to marvel at a pleasant reminder of Glamorgan’s industrial dominance.

Managed by the National Trust, Dyffryn Gardens is one of Wales’s finest Edwardian gardens.

The 55 acres of botanical splendour comes courtesy of the vast wealth of its owner from 1891, coal merchant John Cory, and the horticultural obsession of his third son, Reginald. Wander through the intimate formal garden rooms, such as the Pompeian Garden, built in 1909, with a colonnade, loggia and central fountain, as well as the more fluidly planted informal gardens and lawns.

Of course, the family didn’t scrimp on the house at the estate’s heart either. It is one of the quirkiest properties in the Trust’s portfolio, with rooms used as public spaces where you can play the piano, read a book in the Library or play billiards.

Further west along the coast, Llantwit Major, a huddle of quaint stone-built dwellings, looks like a sleepy town, but if you could travel back 1,500 years, you’d find the bustling Oxford of the Dark Ages. Around AD 508, St Illtud arrived in Cor Tewdws to establish Britain’s first centre of learning, founding a monastery and college where more than 2,000 monks, nobles and princes would come to study in its six halls and 400 teaching houses and lodgings.

The site of the largest hall is today home to the beautiful 13th-century St Illtyd’s Church, the Westminster Abbey of Wales, famed for its spectacular medieval wall paintings, important collection of Celtic stones dating back to the 8th century and a wonderful 15th-century oak roof.

Wander a mile west along the coast and, perched on a cliff looking out to sea, you’ll find St Donats Castle. These days it’s home to the prestigious Atlantic College and St Donats Art Centre, but its past has a dash of scandal. The original castle was medieval, built on the traditional BRITAIN | 2019 GUIDE

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PHOTOS: ©GRAHAM BELL/ALAMY

For more on wonderful Wales, see www.britainmagazine.com/ Wales

Above: A cottage in Merthyr Mawr

home of the Celtic chieftain Caradog, while the current iteration is largely 12th-century. But St Donats has been much restored and developed over the centuries, not least by its owner from the 1920s to 1960s, Sir William Randolph Hearst. The American newspaper tycoon claimed he had been inspired by the beauty of Caernarfon and Conwy castles to acquire his very own Welsh castle. As he told a newspaper in 1928: “It is a charming place. It was very beautiful … as we sat on the terrace in the moonlight, with the waves plashing below, it was almost poetical.”

Despite spending vast sums on often frowned-on renovations, Hearst rarely visited. But, with prohibition in force in America, when he was in residence rumours of glamorous parties with dazzling guest lists of the great and good such as Charlie Chaplin, George Bernard Shaw and John F. Kennedy swirled around the surrounding villages.

Hearst may not have left a lasting impression on Wales, but a native of the nearby Flemingston certainly did. Born in 1747 as Edward Williams, Iolo Morganwg was a Welsh

CWTCH ‘Cwtch’ means to cuddle in Welsh but also refers to small, cosy places. You’ll find accommodation, coffee shops, restaurants and pub snugs bearing the name. South Walians are a warm, welcoming people so, if you’re brave enough to deploy a simple ‘bore da’ (good morning) or ‘diolch’ (thank you) you might find yourself in the midst of an authentic Welsh hug.

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antiquarian, poet, stonemason, collector and literary forger.

As part of the radical Romantic movement that wanted to guard and revive the nation’s language and culture, he established the Gorsedd of the Bards – the druidic order still at the heart of National Eisteddfod of Wales.

While he claimed to be reviving an ancient tradition, the Gorsedd turned out to be a fantasy of a Wales he wanted to exist. But it stuck. Whether you consider him a forger or a genius – he was almost certainly both – no other person has done so much to bring modern Wales into being. You can explore his legacy along the Iolo Morganwg Heritage Walk, which takes you through the market town of Cowbridge with its tranquil Physic Garden, and the quaint villages of Aberthin, St Hilary and Llanblethian.

The route ends at The Bear Hotel in Cowbridge, Iolo’s meeting place and watering hole, now a pristine hotel where you can dine in a stylish cellar restaurant and raise a glass to the man who conjured a nation into being.

Before bidding The Vale farewell, pay a visit to one of its loveliest beaches. At the western end of the Heritage Coast, Merthyr Mawr boasts Europe’s second largest sand dunes, where the beach sequences from Lawrence of Arabia were filmed. Inland, the village itself is brim-full of colourful thatched cottages that have barely changed over centuries.

Beaches to rival the best in Wales (and the world), delightful villages where you’ll find a warm welcome, and salient slices of Welsh history: the glory of Glamorgan lives on in The Vale. www.britain-magazine.com

Visit the Vale of Glamorgan Wales’ best kept secret

The most southerly point in Wales, it has a dramatic coastline, award winning beaches and great surf. This makes it the perfect place to take a break.

Inland, the Vale is a mix of idyllic rolling hills and country lanes and is popular for its bustling historic towns. An unrivalled network of footpaths and bridleways can be used to explore the many historic churches and castles in the area.

The perfect playground for outdoor adventurers, the Vale offers more than you can ask for in fulfilling that healthy

getaway. Beach fun, watersports, walking, cycling or simply enjoying the view from one of the many golf courses.

The Vale is at the heart of a region that has so much to offer. To the East, Cardiff, the Capital City, often ranked as one of the ‘best of ’ cities.

Northwards, beyond the Valleys where Wales’ industrial heritage comes alive, you will find the peaks of the Brecon Beacons National Park.

There is little wonder that so many choose the Vale for that perfect escape.

T: +44 (0) 1446 704867 E: tourism@valeofglamorgan.gov.uk

www.visitthevale.com

EAST OF ENGLAND A soldier in Highland uniform, Edinburgh

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www.britain-magazine.com

SCOTLAND A land of craggy peaks, majestic lochs and glens ablaze with purple heather, Scotland’s wild and wonderful landscapes take some beating. For unparalleled scenery, head for the Highlands.

Covering two-thirds of the country, the region's untarnished beauty is jaw-dropping. If this gives you a taste for wild Scotland, the islands – there are over 700 of them – offer more of the same, plus history (Orkney’s Neolithic remains, for example), fantastic cuisine (foodies love Skye) and whisky (Islay’s distilleries produce some of the world’s best single malts).

The untamed beauty of the north may feel like the edge of the world, but you’re just a couple of hours from Scotland’s lively cities. Historic, beautiful Edinburgh, its fairytale castle perched on an ancient volcano, is a stunner – “My own Romantic town”, as novelist Sir Walter Scott described it. And Glasgow has transformed itself in recent years into an absorbing cultural city with some of Britain’s best museums.

With all this and more, your only problem will be deciding where to begin your Scottish adventure.

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Scotland essentials Highland Games From May to September, people across the Highlands compete in a variety of sporting and iconic Scottish games at this popular event, full of bagpipes, kilts and whisky.

12 May-21 September Royal Edinburgh Military Tattoo Thousands of musicians, pipers, drummers, singers and dancers perform on the esplanade of Edinburgh Castle for this annual spectacle. 2-24 August Edinburgh Fringe Festival The world’s largest arts festival sees people from all over the world perform in venues all over the city. 2-26 August World Pipe Band Championships The pinnacle of competitive pipe band competitions, this event will be held on Glasgow Green, with international pipers and drummers competing. 16-17 August St Andrew’s Day On Scotland’s official national day, patron saint Andrew is celebrated with events across the land. 30 November Hogmanay Scotland marks the last day of the year with one of the best New Year's Eve celebrations in the world. Three days of events in Edinburgh include a torchlight procession, street party and the Loony Dook annual splash in the Firth of Forth. 30-31 December Burns Night Scotland celebrates its most famous poet with a traditional Burns supper of haggis. 25 January

HIGHLIGHTS NATIONAL MUSEUM OF SCOTLAND The National Museum of Scotland in Edinburgh has a fascinating and hugely varied collection of over 20,000 artefacts covering the history of Scotland, as well as world culture, science and discovery.

EDINBURGH CASTLE Edinburgh’s number one attraction, the castle is home to the Honours of Scotland, Britain’s oldest Crown Jewels, dating from the late 15th and early 16th centuries. It also boasts the Stone of Destiny, Scotland’s inaugural stone, which has witnessed the coronation of kings for centuries; and stunning views from the ramparts.

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STIRLING CASTLE This grand castle, which sits high on a volcanic rock, was the childhood home of Mary Queen of Scots.

TOBERMORY, MULL This colourful fishing port, which is the main village on the Isle of Mull, is one of Scotland's prettiest ports.

KELVINGROVE ART GALLERY AND MUSEUM You can’t visit Glasgow without stopping at this stunning museum, which has 22 galleries and 80,000 objects ranging from art to natural history.

ISLAY WHISKY DISTILLERIES The scenic Hebridean isle of Islay has no fewer than eight working distilleries, which produce some of the most distinctive single malt whiskies in the world.

THE HIGHLANDS From majestic mountains – including Britain’s highest Peak, Ben Nevis – to verdant valleys such as Glencoe and sparkling lochs, most famously Loch Ness, the landscapes of the Highlands are unbeatable.

SKARA BRAE, ORKNEY This ancient site, built before Stonehenge, is one of the best preserved prehistoric monuments in Europe. Eight dwellings connected by low passages were once part of a Neolithic village, and are incredibly well preserved. www.britain-magazine.com

PHOTOS: © ANDREW PICKETT/VISIT BRITAIN/KENNY LAM/VISIT SCOTLAND

2019 EVENTS

PHOTOS: © LEE BEEL/VISIT BRITAIN/GUY FARROW/VICTORIA & ALBERT MUSEUM, LONDON

Buachaille Etive Mor in the Glencoe Valley

SCOTLAND

— 2019 Escorted Tours — Western & Northern Isles of Scotland

A combination tour of the popular Lords of the Isles and Viking Treasure.

Skye, Lewis, Harris, Orkney, the Northwest and Northeast coasts, and the Highlands.

Includes the Royal Edinburgh Military Tattoo.

16th Annual Outlander Tour®

Haunted Scotland

Based on the book series by Diana Gabaldon. Time travel back to the 18th-century Highlands, where history and fantasy come face to face.

September 15-22, 2019 7 Nights • $3,750

August 11-26, 2019 • 15 Nights • $5,995

Ghost hunting in Scotland, where it all began!

Rosslyn Chapel, Glamis Castle, Fyvie Castle, Elgin Cathedral, Culloden Battlefield, Eilean Donan Castle, mysterious Neolithic stone monument, and a special ghostly appearance!

Oct. 24-Nov. 1, 2019 • 8 Nights • $3,795

— 2020 Escorted Tours — British Isles

Scotland: Dumfries and Galloway England: Hadrian’s Wall, Lake District Wales: Snowdonia National Park, Welsh Castles Ireland: Dublin, Newgrange, Belfast

May 9-22, 2020 • 13 Nights • $5,795

17th Annual Outlander Tour

Western & Northern Isles of Scotland

A combination tour of the popular Lords of the Isles and Viking Treasure. Skye, Lewis, Harris, Orkney, the Northwest and Northeast coasts, and the Highlands.

Includes the Royal Edinburgh Military Tattoo.

August 12-27, 2020 • 15 Nights • $5,995

®

Based on the book series by Diana Gabaldon.

Time travel back to the 18th-century Highlands, where history and fantasy come face to face.

June 25-July 5, 2020 • 10 Nights • $4,995 September 26-October 4, 2020 • 8 Nights • $3,995

Deluxe escorted tours 16-guest maximum Contact Judy at judy@celticjourneys.us

Scotsmaster / Member of the Better Business Bureau / Licensed and Insured / Tourist Board Certification

www.CelticJourneys.us • (703) 941-6455

SCOTLAND

W ILD WILD WEST The

Scotland’s west coast is the place to visit if you want to see the country's Big Five – red deer, golden eagles, otters, harbour seals and those elusive red squirrels WORDS SALLY COFFEY

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SCOTLAND

PHOTOS: © SHUTTERSTOCK/ILLUSTRATION: © MICHAEL HILL

S

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cotland is a country of vast contrasts, from the grandeur and elegance of Edinburgh to the grit and buzz of Glasgow, the gentle hills of the Lowlands to the dramatic munros of the Highlands.

In this land of wide open spaces and few modern interferences, outside the main cities wildlife thrives. For a mix of beautiful landscapes, traditional communities, deep-rooted history and a good dose of that other Scottish favourite, whisky, you can’t beat the west coast and its isles.

Though it can be daunting planning a trip to Scotland’s Inner Hebrides – a string of islands sprinkled down the west coast from Skye in the north to Islay in the south – for your efforts you’ll be rewarded with spectacular scenery and a way of life that you may have thought had been resigned to the history books.

Islay, the most southerly of the Inner Hebrides isles, may be best known for its peaty, smoky whiskies – there are eight distilleries on the island and more planned – but the Queen of the Hebrides is also one of the best places to spot Scottish wildlife. It is home to some of Scotland’s friendliest people, too, with locals (known as Ileach) never too busy to stop for a ‘blether’ (a chat about nothing in particular – what the English might call ‘small talk’).

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For a mix of beautiful landscapes, traditional communities, deep-rooted history and whisky you can’t beat the west coast and its isles

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SCOTLAND

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PHOTOS: © ALAN COPSON/AWL IMAGES/STEPHEN BENNETT PHOTOGRAPHY/SCOTTISH VIEWPOINT/ALAMY

PHOTOS: © ANNA STOWE/TRAVELIBUK/AF ARCHIVE/ALAMY

PHOTOS: © KENNY LAM/VISITSCOTLAND/PETER WATSON/LOOP IMAGES

Previous page: Tobermory on Mull Clockwise from left: Lagavulin distillery; fresh seafood at Ardbeg Distillery; Highland cattle can be seen on Islay

distilleries of Laphroaig, Lagavulin and Ardbeg, that hug the pretty Kildalton coastline, where the warehouses proudly shout their names out to sea.

Head north from Port Ellen to the centre of the isle and you will reach the town of Bowmore – built-up by Islay’s standards – which is home to the oldest distillery on the isle (handily also called Bowmore), which began legal operation in 1779.

Tours at each of the island’s eight distilleries – Bunnahabhain and Caol Ila lie on the northeast coast and will soon be joined by Ardnahoe, while Bruichladdich and the farmyard distillery of Kilchoman (it’s the only distillery to use barley that it grows itself) lie on the west of the isle – are available year-round. However, to really get a flavour of Islay’s whiskies and camaraderie, you should visit during the annual Islay Whisky Festival (Feis Ile), held each May. But Islay is so much more than its whisky. The Oa Peninsula, a stout chunk of land that juts out into the sea to the southwest of the isle from Port Ellen, is one of the island’s wildest regions.

There’s one road up, a single track that twists and climbs through fertile countryside – all the way to the RSPB car park for the American Monument. To reach the striking monolith that looms on a precarious cliff top with views to the Antrim coastline, follow the well-marked (though muddy at times) path from the car park through a field full of sheep – there’s a good chance you’ll see some nosey Highland cattle too – and up onto the headland (about 20-30 minutes each way).

The monument commemorates the large number of Americans who lost their lives in two separate maritime disasters nearby – the sinking of HMS Tuscania, which was torpedoed on 5 February 1918 just seven miles off the coast of Islay, in which 230 lives were lost, and the sinking of HMS Otranto just a few miles away eight months later, in which over 400 US and British servicemen lost their lives.

This area, all sleepy farmsteads, where the skies seem busier than the road, wasn’t always this quiet. As many as 800 people once lived on the peninsula, many of Norse descent, as evidenced in place names – suffixes such as –bus or –bost come from the Old Norse for farm (‘Bolstadr’). A Neolithic chambered cairn across from one of those farms, Cragabus, shows that people were here long before the Norse settled here in AD 800-1150.

However, mass emigrations from here and other parts of the isles, as a result of the Highland Clearances of the 18th and 19th centuries, saw a huge fall in population and the diaspora of Scottish people, many of whom must have longed for their homeland. Throughout the peninsula you can see reminders of these abandoned lives, such as the Thomas Telford church in Risabus, which stands in ruin.

While on the Oa, stay in one of the two luxurious Coillabus eco lodges – turf-roofed properties sensitively designed so that they are camouflaged against the landscape – about half-way up the Port Ellen road. Each lodge comes with wood burner, its own sauna and an outdoor (heated) bathtub, perfect for enjoying the BRITAIN | 2019 GUIDE

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incredible stargazing afforded by next-to-zero light pollution. One of the lodges, A’Mhoine Bheag, has a curved wall of floor-to-ceiling windows that looks out over the rugged Oa towards the Atlantic and is a great place to sit and watch for golden eagles, which grace the skies here year-round. Look out too for large buzzards and red deer.

If it’s deer you’re after, there really is no better place to see them than on Islay’s island neighbour of Jura – its Norse name translates as ‘Deer Island’ – where they outnumber the people by around 30 to 1.

You can reach Jura by taking the ferry from Port Askaig on the northeast coast of Islay. En route to the ferry, stop off at Finlaggan. These two islands in a peaceful loch location were once the administrative seat of the powerful Lords of the Isles, which ruled much of western Scotland for centuries before having their power stripped off them in the 15th century when their head conspired with the English King Edward IV behind the back of King James IV of Scotland. Walking amid the ruins of the former buildings and homes, which James had burned down, is an emotive experience.

Once on Jura, follow the island’s only road from the ferry slipway at Feolin, which goes all the way to the road end at Barnhill at the north of the isle. It was at this cottage that Eric Blair, or George Orwell to give him his pen name, came to write his seminal novel, 1984.

As you drive, look out for deer on the hillsides and in the fields all around you: with an estimated 6,000-7,000 deer on the isle and not much else (aside from two good distilleries: one whisky and one gin), they are pretty hard to miss. Look out too for the three distinct peaks known as the Paps of Jura, that dominate the skyline as you travel around. From Islay it’s possible to catch a ferry

Below: Red squirrels can be found in Oban

from Port Askaig to Oban, where there’s a good chance of finding some red squirrels, which for some reason don’t like the islands. Take a stroll to the ruins of Dunollie Castle on the outskirts of town, which dates from at least the 15th century (though there was probably a fort here as early as the 7th century), and you may spot one amid its gardens.

Make time too to visit Oban’s distillery or stop for a wee dram in the cosy and traditional Oban Inn by the harbour, where there’s often a musician or two happy to play as you drink.

Oban is also a launchpad for many of the islands, including Mull, where white-tailed eagles (or sea eagles) were reintroduced from the 1980s on, having been driven to extinction in the early 20th century.

From Mull you can take a ferry out to Staffa Island, home to similar basalt rocks to those found on the Giant’s Causeway in Northern Ireland, and where you are pretty much guaranteed to see nesting puffins up close in breeding season, from April to August. If you still want to see more wildlife, take the ferry from Tobermory on Mull to Kilchoan on the remote Ardnamurchan peninsula on the Scottish mainland, one of the best places to see pine martens in the whole of Scotland.

In addition, wherever you go on the west coast, there is a good chance of seeing harbour seals and otters (early morning is best). And from April to October, basking sharks, minke and orca whales, porpoises and dolphins are also regularly sighted. This area is one big playground for wildlife, so make sure you bring your camera.  For more wonderful places to discover in the Scottish islands, visit www.britain-magazine.com/scotland

THE PLANNER GETTING THERE Ferries to Islay leave from Kennacraig on the Kintyre peninsula on Argyll (about a two-and-a-half-hour drive or bus ride from Glasgow). Ferry operator Caledonian MacBrayne (www.calmac.co.uk) also runs ferries from Islay to Oban and from Oban to Mull.

WHERE TO EAT On Islay, the Bridgend Hotel (bridgend-hotel.com), on the road out to Port Askaig, has a restaurant renowned for its excellent menu of Scottish dishes, such as Islay oysters and game from the Islay Estate. On Oban, the Oban Inn is one of the most atmospheric bars you’re likely to come across in Scotland, with all manner of memorabilia hanging from its ceiling and cluttering its walls. The ale is good too, and the Oban 14 is a pretty reliable dram.

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FURTHER INFORMATION www.southernhebrides.com

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PHOTOS: © DGDIMAGES/ALAMY

WHERE TO STAY The Coillabus Ecoluxury Lodges on Islay (coillabus.com) are a pair of stunningly designed self-catering lodges with spectacular views and five-star amenities (including your own sauna). The Scandi-style furnishings and sheepskin rugs are a nod to the region’s Norse past and there is specially made tartan in the blinds and cushion covers, courtesy of nearby Islay Woollen Mill.

Discover the idyllic coastlines of the west coast of Scotland and the Hebrides with Scotland’s leading small ship cruising company.

Travel through magnificent scenery rich in wildlife, relax and enjoy the best in Scottish hospitality with gourmet food and the atmosphere of a floating house party. Our four mini-cruise ships are designed to access the most secluded and picturesque anchorages, with charming and spacious accommodation for the perfect island-hopping adventure.

We offer a choice of 12 different cruise itineraries, over 3-nights, 6-nights or 10 nights, as well as private charter.

To find out more visit our website at www.themajesticline.co.uk or call 01369 707951 or email info@themajesticline.co.uk to request a brochure

EAST OF ENGLAND The Giant's Causeway is Northern Ireland's number one attraction

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NORTHERN IRELAND

Traditional stories and legends have always shaped Northern Ireland and are an integral part of its cultural identity. Travel around, stop for a pint in a pub and you’ll soon be regaled with fantastical tales of the local area. Take the UNESCO World Heritage Site of the Giant’s Causeway – Northern Ireland’s number one attraction, attracting a million visitors each year. This fabled landscape of interlocking basalt columns is, according to legend, the remains of a causeway built by giant Finn McCool. Along the stunning Causeway Coastal Route, one of the world’s great drives, you’ll find legends around every twist and turn of the road. Other natural wonders include the Glens of Antrim, with emerald forests and tumbling waterfalls; the Mourne Mountains, a dramatic range offering heart-stopping views; and craggy Rathlin Island.

The towns and cities hold plenty of appeal too.

Northern Ireland’s capital, Belfast, is one of Britain’s most exciting cities, a mix of striking architecture, cultural attractions, including the experiential museum Titanic Belfast, and, centred in the Cathedral Quarter, a lively food and drink scene.

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Northern Ireland essentials 2019 EVENTS Dalriada Festival Held at Glenarm Castle in County Antrim, this popular culture and heritage festival sees crowds flocking to enjoy music, delicious food and more. 13-14 July Rose Week A celebration of the roses at Sir Thomas and Lady Dixon Park in Belfast, one of the world’s leading rose gardens. 16-22 July EastSide Arts This festival showcases the best creative talent in east Belfast with music, comedy, film, theatre and poetry. 1-11 August Heart of the Glens Festival Based in Cushendell in the Glens of Antrim, this community festival has events including the Lurig Challenge Run, Food Fest night and a huge parade. 3-11 August Hillsborough International Oyster Festival This quirky event involves an oyster eating contest, a golf tournament and the Pearl and Oyster Ball, among other activities.

30 August-3 September Belfast International Tattoo Marching bands, singers and dancers are brought together for this spectacular concert-style performance. 6-7 September Walled City 400 Derry celebrates 400 years since the building of its city walls this year, with planned events from festivals to markets. Year-round

PHOTOS: © STEPHEN EMERSON/ALAMY/DAVID CORDNER/NITB PHOTOGRAPHIC LIBRARY

Mussenden Temple

TITANIC BELFAST You can’t visit Northern Ireland's capital without taking a self-guided tour of Titanic Belfast. The attraction, which is just a short walk from the city centre, is located in the exact spot where the Titanic was designed, built and launched in 1912.

GIANT’S CAUSEWAY & CAUSEWAY COAST This natural wonder and Northern Ireland’s first UNESCO World Heritage Site is endlessly fascinating, not only because of its sheer beauty, but because of the mysteries and legends that swirl around it. The 40,000 basalt columns shaped by volcanic eruptions over 60 million years ago will take your breath away, but the entire coast is sublime: discover its pictureperfect villages, ruined castles and exhilarating clifftop views on a driving tour.

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THE GLENS OF ANTRIM Nine deep green valleys, known as glens, stretch 80 miles along the northeastern coastline of Antrim. This outstanding Area of Natural Beauty covers a huge array of landscapes, from grasslands and forests to mountains and peat bogs, with churches and castles to see on the way.

CARRICK-A-REDE This scenic rope bridge near Ballintoy, suspended 100 feet above a jaw-dropping gorge, offers a thrilling experience with incredible views.

DUNLUCE CASTLE One of the most beautiful castles in Ireland, the Dunluce ruins are an atmospheric sight, on the edge of an 100-foot cliff overlooking the sea.

MUSSENDEN TEMPLE Built in the 18th century as a library for the niece of the Bishop of Derry, this little domed temple, perched on the edge of a cliff, is a popular landmark in Downhill Demesne in County Londonderry.

MOUNTAINS OF MOURNE A walker’s paradise, this natural playground in County Down is the most dramatic mountain range in Northern Ireland. Its majestic beauty inspired CS Lewis to create Narnia.

HILLSBOROUGH CASTLE Built in the 1770s and recently beautifully restored, this elegant house, surrounded by stately gardens and grounds, has hosted the great and the good over the centuries and is still used as a royal residence. www.britain-magazine.com

PHOTOS: © LEE BEEL/VISIT BRITAIN/GUY FARROW/VICTORIA & ALBERT MUSEUM, LONDON

HIGHLIGHTS

NORTHERN IRELAND The Red Room at Hillsborough Castle

A ROYAL RESTORATION As Hillsborough Castle’s lavish restoration project draws to a close, we pay a visit and find a beguiling blend of grand interiors and tranquil gardens WORDS LAWRENCE ALEXANDER

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NORTHERN IRELAND Clockwise from far left: The State Dining Room; the State Drawing Room; Hillsborough Castle's grand facade

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ames can be misleading at Hillsborough. Surrounded by a ‘Small Park’ (actually 100 acres of delightful pleasure grounds), the building hasn’t been a ‘castle’ for centuries.

Instead, this typical Irish Big House has gradually evolved: fortified dwelling to family home to national power-house.

As the official home of the Secretary of State for Northern Ireland and official residence of HM Queen Elizabeth II, it has played host to presidents, royalty and peacemakers.

Moyses Hill bought the territory of Kilwarlin, County Down in 1611. Mainly woods, bogs and a small village, it was strategically important, on the road between Carrickfergus and Dublin. Colonel

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Arthur Hill built a fort here and, in 1662, Charles II granted the family a hereditary role: Constable of Hillsborough Fort, authorised to impose tolls and hold a market. Suddenly the ‘Borough of the Hills’ was important. It even sent representatives to the Dublin parliament.

Hillsborough Castle began its long journey from fort to country mansion in 1742 when Wills Hill inherited the estate, aged 24.

Unlike many grand country seats, it was always part of the community rather than a community built to service a house.

Indeed, the road to Moira ran straight past the front door. As Secretary of State for the Colonies, Hill hosted Benjamin Franklin

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here in 1771. Although the pair would later fall out, they had a pleasant meeting at Hillsborough.

In 1788 architect Robert Furze Brettingham was commissioned to design the West Front in neoclassical style. The grounds had already begun their own transformation in the 1760s. Lancelot ‘Capability’ Brown never actually visited Ireland but he worked on Hill’s garden in England. It’s likely Hillsborough’s gardens, in Brown’s trademark Landscape style, using techniques such as damming a stream to create a lake and artfully framing ‘vistas’, were influenced by him.

Nearer the house, the walled kitchen garden, recently restored and reimagined, still contains one of the earliest surviving ‘pinerie’ glasshouses, for raising highly prized pineapples.

Hill’s son Arthur, who had acquired a huge fortune through his wife, Mary Sandys, continued the construction project at Hillsborough. Alas, even his wealth became overstretched, due to

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extended political campaigning. It was left to his son, also Arthur, to complete the work, diverting the Moira Road around 1833 to enlarge the Small Park. The ex-road is now a magnificent walk of majestic Irish Yews. Hillsborough’s famous Ionic portico was finally added in the 1840s.

The house remained a much-loved family home throughout the 19th century. Lady Alice’s Temple, by the lake, was presented to Lady Alice Hill in 1867 as a wedding gift from her brother, and vast kitchen gardens flourished alongside the pleasure grounds.

In 1925, however, the house left the Hill family, bought by the British government for a new life as a home for the Governor of Northern Ireland and official royal residence. On moving in, the Duchess of Abercorn, wife of the first governor, was shocked to find Hillsborough’s stables had hot and cold running water for washing cars, but the servants’ bedrooms were entirely unheated. A

Left to right: The Throne Room; Lady Alice's Temple

programme of improvements, including waist-height ovens to save cooks’ backs, was interrupted, however, in 1934, when a devastating fire forced a re-think – and further upgrades.

Today’s Hillsborough reflects the social and political importance of this historic royal palace. Still a working government building, its chambers reflect a grandeur of purpose, including several state rooms.

The State Drawing Room was originally constructed as a library; its reading room is now the stunningly beautiful, neoclassically decorated Lady Grey’s Study. Bookcases and four free-standing columns have been reconstructed, based on the originals.

Other features, such as the delicate cantilevered stairway in the Stair Hall, hint at the magnificence of the building even before its elevation to the world stage. Most opulent of all, the green silk damask Throne Room dates to 1797, its original three rooms combined to create a grand salon in the 1840s. The Queen held a ball www.britain-magazine.com

here to celebrate her coronation in 1953; she is represented in her absence by Chairs of State.

The post of Governor of Northern Ireland was abolished in 1973, but for Hillsborough it was business as usual. It became home to the first Secretary of State for Northern Ireland, William Whitelaw.

When Mo Mowlam became Secretary of State in 1997, she insisted on opening the house to the public. In 1998, Hillsborough became part of the movement for peace when negotiations for the Belfast/ Good Friday Agreement were conducted here.

Historic Royal Palaces, who care for The Tower of London, Hampton Court, Kensington Palace, Banqueting House and Kew, took over management at Hillsborough in 2014 and, after a five-year, £20m transformation project, opened the palace and its fabulous grounds to the public in April 2019. www.hrp.org.uk/hillsborough-castle BRITAIN | 2019 GUIDE

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PHOTOS: © JAMES BRITTAIN/RICHARD LEA-HAIR/HISTORIC ROYAL PALACES

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FOOD AND DRINK

FOODIE BRITAIN

For restaurants with a view, afternoon tea and Britain's best pubs step this way WORDS NATASHA FOGES AND ZARA GASPAR

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TOP FOOD EXPERIENCES

From immersive theatre dining to countryside foraging, here are the UK's most memorable food experiences

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FOOD AND DRINK A TASTE OF LONDON

Go off the beaten track in search of delicious local delicacies with Eating London, whose 4-hour food tours allow you to explore London’s neighbourhoods and the history of the city, while sampling tasty treats. Choose between a foodie tour of London’s diverse East End and a twilight tour of the cocktail bars and cosy restaurants of buzzing Soho. www.eatingeurope.com/london LEARN THE ART OF BAKING ON THE WILD SIDE

NEXT STOP: LUNCH

If you’re travelling to London, why not maximise your sightseeing time by having lunch or dinner aboard the Bustronome: a double decker bus with great views and stops across the city. Starting at Embankment, take in the sights including Big Ben, the London Eye, St Paul’s and Tower Bridge, as you enjoy a 4-6 course tasting menu. The journey takes 1hr 45min for lunch and 2hr 45min for dinner. www.bustronome.com DINE IN THE DARK

Seeing the food on your plate is a huge part of the experience of eating, but would your meal taste different if you were to dine in complete darkness?

At the restaurant Dans Le Noir, in London’s Clerkenwell, guests are given a sensory experience unlike any other, as they tuck into a surprise meal in a pitch-black restaurant. www.danslenoir.com

The Forest Side, a Michelin-starred restaurant-withrooms set in a Gothic mansion in the Lake District, has launched a brand-new foraging experience.

Learn how to find and cook fresh local produce by joining head chef Kevin Tickle on an excursion to the fields and woodland surrounding the restaurant. The experience includes breakfast, foraging and a gourmet picnic. www.theforestside.com READY, SET, BAKE

If you’re a fan of The Great British Bake Off (The Great British Baking Show in the US), The Big London Bake experience is for you. A white marquee has been set up in the garden of The Castle Pub in Tooting, with 10 cooking stations for baking enthusiasts to compete in teams of 2 for the title of Best Bake. You’ll have 90 minutes to become Star Baker. No experience is needed; book online. www.thebiglondonbake.com

From one-day to one-week breadmaking classes and speciality courses such as pastry, viennoiserie and patisserie, the Bertinet Kitchen offers a huge variety of courses aimed at teaching students about the art of baking. Based in the beautiful and historic city of Bath, this baking school is the ideal place to learn a new and delicious skill. www.thebertinetkitchen.com DINE LIKE ROYALTY

For a delicious dinner fit for a king (or queen), dine at a castle. Guests at 16th-century Thornbury Castle in Gloucestershire have a tempting gourmet menu and four dining rooms to choose from, including the atmospheric Tudor Hall and Baron’s Sitting Room. You can even dine in the dungeon if you dare. www.thornburycastle.co.uk

SOMETHING IN THE AIR

PHOTOS: © PAUL MASSEY

ABBA fans rejoice: Mamma Mia! The Party hits London’s The O2 this summer. The venue will be transformed into a Greek taverna and you’ll enjoy a 3-course Mediterranean meal as the cast serenade you with your favourite ABBA songs. This immersive theatre dining experience is around 5 hours long – sure to turn you into a dancing queen by the end of the night. www.mammamiatheparty.com KENTISH GOODNESS

Kent Food Trails celebrate the incredible flavourpacked produce of the ‘Garden of England’, from locally grown veg to fine wine. Choose from a vineyard trail taking in the famous Tenterden Vineyard, a beer trail of East Kent that visits Britain’s oldest brewer, and a cross-country route that samples the best of the county’s cheese and wine. Delicious. www.kentfoodtrails.co.uk www.britain-magazine.com

FEAST AT A MEDIEVAL BANQUET

Ever wanted to step back in time and dine with royalty at a medieval banquet? Well, now you can. Join Henry VIII at The Medieval Banquet in St Katharine’s Docks for an evening of food, knights, jesters and acrobats. You can hire a costume too, to really get into the swing of things. www.medievalbanquet.com BRITAIN | 2018 GUIDE

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DINNER WITH A VIEW PHOTO: © PAUL WINCH-FURNESS/MICHAEL KYLE/THOMAS ALEXANDER PHOTOGRAPHY/MING TANG-EVANS

Feast your eyes at one of London’s restaurants with stunning panoramas

BUTLERS WHARF CHOP HOUSE

Tower Bridge turns 125 this year. To celebrate you can enjoy a spectacular picture-postcard view of this iconic London landmark from the sun-trap terrace of Butlers Wharf Chop House.

The restaurant’s menu is a celebration of meaty British cuisine, with five cuts of Aberdeen Angus beef steak and a choice of six different sauces to accompany it.

Crispy triple-cooked chips are an obligatory accompaniment, and the desserts are equally tempting: sticky toffee pudding, maybe, or banana cheesecake. Come hungry. chophouse-restaurant.co.uk

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PHOTOS: © IAN G DAGNALL/ALAMY

OXO TOWER BRASSERIE

The Swan at Chapel Down Winery AQUA SHARD Above: 28˚-50˚ The Shard, theWine glittering glass spike that towers Workshop and over Southwark, has a whole host of eating and Kitchen, Marylebone

drinking options within its sleek confines. Aqua Shard is an elegant, dimly lit space where a smart crowd tucks into contemporary British cuisine as they gaze out through enormous windows at the London skyline – breathtaking after dark. The food is excellent, but it’s hard not to be distracted by this fascinating, rarely seen view of London: minuscule pedestrians, dinky buses and toytown trains snaking into London Bridge station far below. aquashard.co.uk

A familiar landmark on London’s bustling South Bank, the Oxo Tower was originally built as a power station to supply electricity for the Royal Mail, and was later bought by the manufacturers of Oxo beef stock cubes. These days, there’s a restaurant, brasserie and bar here, all eight floors up; the brasserie is our favourite for its modern British menu, open kitchen and live jazz in the evenings.

On fine days, try to bag a table on the sunny terrace to enjoy sweeping views of the Thames with a cocktail in hand. www.oxotower.co.uk DUCK & WAFFLE

Duck & Waffle was many Londoners’ first taste of sky-high dining, pioneering the trend that has seen several more of the capital’s skyscrapers dedicate an upper floor to a restaurant with vertiginous, wraparound views of some of London’s most iconic sights. On the 40th floor of the Heron Tower in the City, this buzzy restaurant (below) serves rib-sticking

British cuisine 24 hours a day, so you can tuck in as you watch the sun rise. Our tip? Book one of the tables nearest the Gherkin skyscraper – so close you could almost touch it. duckandwaffle.com PORTRAIT RESTAURANT

Thanks to its Trafalgar Square location, the National Portrait Gallery’s restaurant, Portrait, benefits from a picture-perfect panorama that stretches from Nelson’s Column to the Houses of Parliament and the London Eye. Three floors up, you can enjoy a privileged view of Nelson’s Column (without getting neck ache). The menu is a paean to British ingredients, from bream fillet with crushed Jersey Royals to grape and elderflower jelly. www.npg.org.uk

SWAN, SHAKESPEARE’S GLOBE

Right next door to the famous theatre, Swan, Shakespeare’s Globe benefits from stunning views of the Thames and St Paul’s. A seat facing the window is a must; book one of the tables with prime views of the cathedral, beautifully illuminated at night. The chic, airy room is full of the chatter of diners enjoying beautifully presented modern British food: Romney Marsh lamb with curly kale and caramelised shallots, perhaps, followed by rhubarb crumble tart. Shakespeare would have approved, we’re sure. www.swanlondon.co.uk www.britain-magazine.com

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COUNTRY PUBS For good food and real ale in the midst of beautiful countryside, head to one of our favourite country pubs

ANCHOR INN, DORSET

THE BELL AT SKENFRITH, WALES

This 17th-century former coaching inn in Skenfrith, near Abergavenny in Monmouthshire, is a wonderful countryside retreat. Its riverside location and backdrop of rolling green hills make it the perfect stop-off on a country walk – which the pub has already mapped out for you. Choose from six circular walks before heading back to warm up with a pint or two in front of the cosy log fire; or, in fine weather, order a picnic basket and sit in the pub's orchard, with lovely views of the river. www.skenfrith.co.uk THE BELL AT TICEHURST, EAST SUSSEX

On the border of Kent and Sussex, this charming red-brick pub is nestled in the High Weald, an Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty. Once a favourite haunt of writer Rudyard Kipling, this traditional 16th-century inn stands out because of its modern, eccentric touches. From lampshades fashioned from bowler hats to cutlery transformed into coat hooks, it’s a playful setting to enjoy delicious, locally sourced food in beautiful surrounds. www.thebellinticehurst.com

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PHOTO: © STEPHEN BANKS/JAKE EASTHAM/ROB BESSANT

If you’re exploring the South West Coastal Path you’ll want to stop off at the Anchor Inn, just west of the market town of Bridport. The white stone-walled pub is tucked away between sea cliffs and green fields, offering stunning views from every angle. Golden Cap, the highest point on the south coast, is just 30-40 minutes away – perfect hiking distance. The pub’s tempting menu, full of farm (and sea) to table delights, will reward your efforts. www.theanchorinnseatown.co.uk

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FOOD AND DRINK THE GURNARD’S HEAD, CORNWALL

You can’t miss this striking yellow pub, and you certainly wouldn’t want to. It's situated on Cornwall’s dramatic Atlantic coast near St Ives, long a beacon for artists thanks to its unique light and beautiful sea and moor views. The Gurnard’s Head was once frequented by artists such as Barbara Hepworth, Terry Frost and Roger Hilton, and local artists still exhibit their work here. Its rustic rooms are full of charm: a wonderful place to relax and enjoy good seasonal food. www.gurnardshead.co.uk

GUNTON ARMS, NORTH NORFOLK

Carved out of a historic country house, the Gunton Arms is a rustic-chic hotel filled with original works by artists such as Damien Hirst and Tracey Emin. It’s got history too – Edward VII’s mistress Lillie Langtry stayed here during the 1890s. Set in a 1000-acre deer park, the pub has plenty of rural charm. Tempting meaty dishes, including venison from the hotel’s deer park and beef from the local herd at Blickling, are a highlight of the menu. www.theguntonarms.co.uk

FOOD AND DRINK LONDON

London has long been one of the most influential restaurant cities in the world: you could dine out every night for a year and still find endless variety.

There are dozens of new openings each month, numerous different cuisines and a huge array of award-winning restaurants to choose from (the city currently has 69 Michelin-star restaurants).

Modern European restaurant Texture in Marylebone and sushi restaurant The Araki in Mayfair were ranked by renowned restaurant guide Hardens as two of the UK’s best restaurants, with Brat in Shoreditch receiving the most votes to win Top Newcomer for its rustic Spanish cuisine.

LUDLOW

FOODIE HOTSPOTS

PHOTOS: © JOHN HAYWARD/JON SPARKS/ALAMY/VISIT ENGLAND/SHORPSHIRE & BEYOND

Explore Britain's best destinations for food lovers

Food festivals are everywhere now, but beautiful Ludlow, a historic market town in Shropshire, was one of the pioneers. The Ludlow Food Festival (13-15 September, with spin-off events in May and August) brings together over 160 food producers once a year to celebrate incredible food. The town may not have any Michelin-star restaurants, but it’s still a foodie’s paradise thanks to an abundance of quality producers, and is full of independent food shops, butchers, bakers and farm shops. Local gems include artisan bakery Swift’s, food boutique/deli Broad Bean and modern British/French restaurant Mortimer’s.

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RAMSBOTTOM

If you haven’t heard of this picturesque market town on the outskirts of Manchester, then you’ve been missing out. The town prides itself on having no chains and only small independent restaurants and bars, which makes it a haven for food lovers.

Not only does it host quirky food events like the Black Pudding Throwing Championship (9 September) and the Ramsbottom Chocolate Festival (early April), it also boasts plenty of must-visit eateries. Indulge in tapas at Levanter, enjoy top pub grub at the Eagle and Child, or try something different at vegan restaurant Lolo’s.

YORK

This historic city draws foodies from all over the country. York is not only the UK’s home of chocolate (there have been chocolate factories here since the 18th century), but the city has a vibrant international food scene ranging from street food to fine dining. Get a taste of the city by visiting the food court at Shambles Market, open seven days a week, or sample the fare on offer at the York Food & Drink Festival (20-29 September).

But what’s really put York in the spotlight is its restaurants. New additions Arras, Le Cochon Aveugle and Skosh are all highly acclaimed.

BRAY

The sleepy 16th-century village of Bray, situated between Maidenhead and Windsor in Berkshire, is the unlikely home to seven Michelin-starred restaurants. Not only this, but it also boasts two of Britain’s five three-Michelin-starred restaurants: Alain Roux’s The Waterside Inn, a classic French restaurant on the water, and Heston Blumenthal’s The Fat Duck, a temple to experimental modern British cuisine. Book well in advance for both. If you’re after something a little less pricey, The Hind’s Head and The Crown, also part of Blumenthal’s Bray empire, offer gastropub classics with a gourmet spin.

CARTMEL

The little village of Cartmel was first put on the foodie map 20 years ago when Cartmel Village Shop first started selling its popular sticky toffee pudding. Now world-famous and lauded by top chefs, it's sold by the likes of Selfridges and Fortnum & Mason. Today, Cartmel is the Lake District’s gastronomic capital. Visit Cartmel Food Market every third Friday of the month to taste

some of the tasty local produce, or dine out at Simon Rogan’s two-Michelin-starred L’Enclume, one of the best restaurants in the Northwest (book well in advance). The more relaxed Rogan & Co, also in the village, is a more affordable way of enjoying this celebrated chef’s creative cuisine.

Stop off too at Unsworth’s Yard, full to bursting with artisan produce – from cheese to chutney, pies to wine: a great place to pick up delicious foodie souvenirs.

ABERGAVENNY

With four vineyards, three microbreweries, two cider producers, three cookery schools and two food festivals, this Welsh town is a honeypot for epicureans. Sited on the edge of the Brecon Beacons National Park, the local ingredients are top-notch: mountain lamb and beef; fresh fruit and vegetables; delicious cheeses; and great beer and cider. Michelin-starred The Walnut Tree just outside town, which has a daily-changing, locally sourced menu, is the restaurant to visit when in the area. One of the main attractions is the Abergavenny Food Festival (21-22 September), which attracts over 30,000 visitors each year and, now in its 21st year, has gone from strength to strength. This year, the packed programme includes a charcuterie and vermouth pairing masterclass and a Scandinavian baking class. www.britain-magazine.com

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FOOD AND DRINK BETTY’S TEAROOM, YORK

Known as the home of afternoon tea, Betty’s celebrates its centenary this year, with a host of limited edition teas and events. Visitors flock to these historic cafés for mouth-watering cakes and attentive service. The traditional afternoon tea is served at all six Betty’s tearooms, but the finest Lady Betty Afternoon Tea is reserved for the Imperial Room in Harrogate and the Belmont Room in York. www.bettys.co.uk

AFTERNOON TEA

This quintessentially English custom dates back to the mid-19th century.

Here are just a few places to indulge in this glorious tradition CLARIDGE’S, LONDON

With its sumptuous Art Deco interiors and impeccable service, Claridge’s is the place to go for a chic afternoon tea. The spread includes a seasonal savoury dish alongside the sandwiches, and the hotel changes its delectable menu of pastries frequently. The tea menu is extensive and includes some genuinely rare blends; the Malawi Antler tea, for instance, is only served in two places in the world. www.claridges.co.uk THE ROYAL CRESCENT HOTEL, BATH

PHOTOS: © JOHN DAVIDSON/ALAMY/ADRIAN HOUSTON

Step back in time as you relish three tiers of sweet and savoury treats in the Georgian splendour of this iconic hotel. The restaurant is at the centre of architect John Wood’s masterpiece, The Royal Crescent: a stunning location for tea, cake and local delicacies such as the Bath bun. Alternatively, on fine days you can take tea in the glorious gardens. www.royalcrescent.co.uk

CLIVEDEN HOUSE, BERKSHIRE This opulent country house was once home to Nancy Astor, the first woman to gain a seat in Parliament, and is where Meghan Markle spent the night before her wedding. Book in advance for the afternoon tea as it’s deservedly popular. Enjoy a delicious traditional tea with wonderful modern touches, or treat yourself to the luxury option, which comes with the house cocktail: a mix of vodka, rose liqueur and Champagne, topped with gold leaf. Afterwards, a stroll through the manicured gardens is a must. www.clivedenhouse.co.uk

THE BALMORAL, EDINBURGH

Where better to enjoy a decadent afternoon tea than one of Edinburgh’s most famous landmarks? The Balmoral is over 100 years old, but the prestigious venue in the heart of the city is timeless. Enjoy an elegant afternoon tea accompanied by a harpist in the Palm Court. You’ll be greeted at the door by a kilted footman and dine under a glass dome hung with a Venetian chandelier. www.roccofortehotels.com ELLENBOROUGH PARK, CHELTENHAM

Dine in style at this beautiful manor house in the Cotswold countryside. This delightful afternoon tea, with a tempting variety of scones, is served in the Tudor-inspired Great Hall overlooking the historic Cheltenham Racecourse. www.ellenboroughpark.com

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PLACES TO STAY

STAY IN A CASTLE With romantic four-posters, antiques galore and even the odd suit of armour, spending a night in a British castle is a magical experience WORDS EDWARD AVES

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rom mighty medieval fortresses that have stood sentinel since the Norman invasion to baronial stately homes built to impress, Britain is peppered with fantastical castles. While some, like Windsor and Edinburgh, are among Britain’s best-loved attractions, and others still lie in private hands, a special few have been converted into sumptuous hotels and B&Bs: a delightfully decadent way to soak up Britain’s rich history.

Surrounded by atmospherically ruined battlements and entered via a magnificent twin-tower gatehouse – popular with white doves that flitter in and out of its putlog holes – Sussex’s Amberley Castle is one of England’s most romantic places to stay, with a pedigree dating back over 900 years. Illustrious guests have included Henry VIII, Charles II and the current Queen.

Within the five-foot-thick curtain walls, the ivy-clad, 17thcentury Great Hall is the heart of the castle, with its weathered stone floors and Gothic tracery windows. Public areas are festooned with all manner of military regalia: the jousting lances on the grand staircase would have dealt a mighty blow.

Rooms feel grand but welcoming, and feature antique furnishings and inch-thick drapes to keep out the winter chill.

The barrel-vaulted Queen’s Room makes an impressive setting for dinner – an extravagant affair that lifts classic English ingredients with continental flair and creativity. The wine list alone stretches to thirty pages, and service is attentive and discreet.

The next morning, wander into the idyllic village of Amberley, with its thatched-roof cottages – many built from castle stone pulled down by Oliver Cromwell’s men – and twelfth-century church, or, if you’re feeling active, borrow a pair of Dubarry boots for a hike on the gorgeous South Downs.

Tudor history buffs need little introduction to Hever Castle. As the childhood home of Anne Boleyn, this fine moated manor house in Kent was the backdrop to a tragic Clockwise, from top: sequence of events that ushered in one of English

history’s most tumultuous periods. Poignant reminders of Anne are on show in the castle’s painstakingly restored interior, including the beautifully illustrated Book of Hours that she carried to the executioner’s block.

When Hever was renovated a century ago by its deep-pocketed new American owner, William Waldorf Astor, he created a remarkable Tudor-style annexe – employing some 800 craftspeople instructed to use only traditional methods – to accommodate his guests. Today, the Astor Wing offers luxurious B&B accommodation, delightfully secluded away from the crowds. Set around a central courtyard, rooms are individually designed and lavishly appointed, with rich fabrics and antique furniture. Some have splendid four-posters and intricate oakpanelling; others feel more country-house chic.

Breakfast is a highlight, served in a series of richly decorated dining rooms, with big platters of fruit, local ham and cheeses and a superior choice of cooked options, while for dinner you need venture no further than the cosy, wood-beamed Henry VIII pub, a short wander away through the grounds.

If you want to continue in Henry and Anne’s footsteps, book a stay at magical Thornbury Castle, near Bristol, where the royal couple honeymooned during happier times in 1535. With stone walls hung with ancient tapestries and portraits, an elegant

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PHOTOS: © NICK WILLIAMS/SCOTT WRIGHT PHOTOGRAPHY

Hever Castle in Kent; the Tulip Room in the Astor Wing of Hever Castle; Amberley Castle is one of Britain's most romantic places to stay

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PLACES TO STAY

For a splurge, book the opulent four-storey Lindsay Tower Suite, with turret stairs and fabulous views

PHOTOS: © ROB COUSINS/ALAMY

Clockwise from this image Augill Castle in Cumbria; Ormolu ornaments at Crossbasket Castle; a suit of armour in the hallway at Thornbury Castle; the Tower Restaurant

wood-panelled lounge with a roaring open fire and even a subterranean dungeon – now a cosy venue for a candlelit private banquet – Thornbury feels the perfect courtly retreat, though with a rather more cheerful, informal ambience than in Henry’s day.

Friendly staff will usher you up the spiral stone steps to your bedchamber, all of which boast exquisite period features such as ornate carved ceilings or huge oak armoires. Once you’re settled in you’ll be itching to explore the castle’s nooks and crannies – and perhaps to find out if there’s anyone inside that suit of armour in the hallway.

If you’ve a spare hour to fill before dinner (served in the intimate Tower Restaurant), play a round of croquet on the lawn within the battlements and explore the series of lovely walled gardens, laid out with arbours ideal for a romantic tryst.

While some castle stays maintain a low-key, couples-oriented atmosphere, Augill Castle, a stately Neogothic folly on the edge of the Lake District, offers a big-hearted welcome to families.

It’s the little things that make a stay here special: the decanter of sherry waiting for you in your room; the dressing-up box in the library to keep little ones amused; or the shawls in a basket in the hall for when you want to slip your shoes off and settle down in www.britain-magazine.com

front of the fire. In fact, staying here feels like a big house party.

Like everything else at Augill, rooms are luxurious yet homely.

Whether you opt for a romantic double in the main house or a family suite in the old servants’ quarters, expect an eclectic mix of antique pieces, interesting curios and contemporary features.

There are plenty of stately homes nearby to explore, as well as bracing walks in the lush Eden Valley, but guests tend to sleep late and unwind, perhaps enjoying afternoon tea on the terrace or a ramble round the 15-acre grounds.

Mealtimes are informal, convivial affairs, with hearty Italian cooking – a sort of Umbria meets Cumbria. Afterwards, you can even cosy up in front of a movie in the Art Deco cinema.

With more castles per square mile than anywhere else in Europe, Wales can easily claim to be Britain’s castle capital, though precious few take in guests. One exception – with a difference – is French-inspired Château Rhianfa in Anglesey, whose fairytale turrets and lofty pinnacles look as though they were transplanted from the Loire Valley.

Standing proud on a bluff above the Menai Straits, with magnificent views towards the snow-capped peaks of Snowdonia, the mansion was built by the Baronet of BRITAIN | 2019 GUIDE

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PLACES TO STAY For more special places to stay around the UK, see www.britainmagazine.com

BOOK AHEAD Amberley Castle A refined and intimate castle hotel within easy reach of London. Facilities including tennis courts, a putting green and a croquet lawn. www.amberleycastle.co.uk Hever Castle A stay in the Edwardian-era Astor or Anne Boleyn wings includes entrance to the castle and superb gardens, with their classical statuary, rose garden, boating lake and pair of mazes. www.hevercastle.co.uk Thornbury Castle An authentic, atmospheric Tudor castle with a remarkable history, full of cosy nooks to banish the winter blues. For a treat, stay in the lavish Duke’s Bedchamber, which once accommodated Henry VIII and Anne Boleyn. www.thornburycastle.co.uk

Château Rhianfa This Grade II-listed Welsh retreat, with its own private beach, makes an ideal base for a trip on the Snowdon mountain railway or a visit to picturesque Beaumaris Castle. chateaurhianfa.com Crossbasket Castle Genteel and sophisticated, this award-winning Scottish castle hotel boasts a gorgeous setting and spectacular food among its many highlights. crossbasketcastle.com

fortified mansion – with an impressive 600-year heritage – is a Bodelwyddan as a gift for his wife – a celebration of their shared tranquil escape from Glasgow, a half-hour drive away. First love of French architecture. impressions are winning: you’ll be courteously greeted at your car The romance continues inside, with spacious, artfully designed and your bags whisked up to your room while you’re oriented at rooms and suites decorated in bold colours with plush fabrics. reception. With just nine rooms – elegantly and tastefully One features a turret day bed, while rooms in the separate new furnished, with antique pieces picked up at auction – staff can Rhianfa Lodge have a restful New England feel. The deep sofas focus on individual service. in the guest lounges are blissful after a day out on the hills, and For a splurge, book the opulent four-storey Lindsay Tower there’s a hot tub to soak your weary bones. Cap the day with Suite, with turret stairs and fabulous views of the river. After a dinner in the tartan-carpeted restaurant, Le Dragon Rouge, preprandial sharpener from the whisky trolley, you’ll be ready for feasting on first-class local produce, prepared with imagination the main event – dinner in the Baillie Room, perhaps the castle’s and flair. finest, surrounded by grand mirrors and gilt cornicing.

Dazzlingly transformed from a roofless near-ruin Overseen by famed French chefs Albert and Michel just a few years ago, Crossbasket Castle has fast Above: Guests can relax in Roux, and presented with skill and passion, it’s a secured a well-earned reputation as one of Scotland’s the lavishly decorated stunning immersive culinary experience among the most sumptuous small hotels. Set in extensive verdant Drawing Room at Château Rhianfa in Anglesey best that Scotland has to offer. grounds along the babbling River Calder, this grand

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PHOTOS: © DAVID ROBERTS PHOTOGRAPHY

Augill Castle This laidback, family-owned castle is great for fireside games, singalongs on the piano and those with a spirit of fun and adventure. stayinacastle.com

Experience living history with luxurious rooms, dramatic architecture and stunning views.

Appleby Castle is a 12th century motte and bailey castle that cherishes one of the few remaining intact Norman Keeps in the UK. President George Washington’s brothers, father and uncle went to school in Appleby.

Quintessentially English - Stay at Appleby Castle.

www.applebycastle.co.uk | +44 17683 30318

DIRECTORY

BRITISH DAYS OUT With our 2019 directory, you can explore the best of Britain's cultural and heritage attractions to ensure you make the most of your next holiday or day trip

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DIRECTORY

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PHOTOS: © ANDREW BUTLER/NATIONAL TRUST IMAGES/ANDREW PICKETT/VISIT BRITAIN/PETER PACKER/ROYAL COLLECTION TRUST © HER MAJESTY QUEEN ELIZABETH II 2019

PHOTO: © DEBORAH VERNON/ALAMY

elcome to the BRITAIN Guide 2019 directory. After enjoying the features in the rest of the guide, now is the time to start picking out your favourite destinations and planning your perfect trip!

To make your preparations even easier, we have divided this advertisement directory into separate geographical areas, for an at-a-glance look at the best of what each region has to offer, from cultural days out to beautiful places to stay.

Whether you want to explore a UNESCO World Heritage Site, take a walking tour, wander the gardens of a beautiful stately home or catch the latest gallery or museum exhibitions, we've got just the thing for you.

KEY TO SYMBOLS Information Shop Plant sales Corporate hospitality/functions Disabled access Refreshments/café/tearoom Restaurant Guided tours Audio tours Parking available

East of England

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LONDON

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SOUTHWEST ENGLAND

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SOUTHEAST ENGLAND

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HEART OF ENGLAND

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EAST OF ENGLAND

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NORTHERN ENGLAND

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WALES

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SCOTLAND

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BRITAIN'S ISLANDS

Education/school visits Accommodation Civil wedding licence Open all year Special events Accept euros

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LONDON

The Emirates Aviation Experience Edmund Haley Way, Greenwich Peninsula SE10 0FR T: +44 (0)20 3440 7020 www.aviation-experience.com

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he Emirates Aviation Experience offers visitors a unique insight into the world of modern commercial aviation as well as the opportunity to take to the skies in the world’s first public facing commercial flight simulators of their kind: two Airbus A380s and two Boeing B777s. Feel like a pilot and practise your take-off and landing skills at ten of the most popular destinations worldwide.

The attraction is next to the Emirates Air Line Cable Car and minutes away from North Greenwich Tube Station.

OPEN: 1 Apr to 30 Sept, 10am to 7pm, and 1 Oct to 30 Mar, 10am to 6pm.

ADMISSION: Adults: £5, children: £3, carers and children under 6: free, Simulator Experience: from £60

London Canal Museum 12-13 New Wharf Road, London N1 9RT T: +44 (0) 20 77130836 www.canalmuseum.org.uk

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he museum tells the story of London’s colourful canals, their boats, cargos and horses, and of the families who lived afloat to make a meagre living from carrying goods. Enjoy the traditional artwork of “roses and castles”, too.

A second theme is the Victorian ice trade, for which the building was built in the 1860s. Two huge ice wells remain beneath the floor and visitors can peer down and marvel at the way ice from Norway kept London’s milk cool.

OPEN: All year, Tuesday-Sunday and bank holiday Mondays, 10am-4.30pm.

Late opening to 7.30pm on the first Thursday of each month ADMISSION: Adults £5; concessions: £4; children half-price, family £12.50

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Battersea Park Children’s Zoo Battersea Park, Chelsea Bridge Gate, Battersea, London SW11 4NJ T: +44 (0) 20 7924 5826 www.batterseaparkzoo.co.uk

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magine soaring through the sky on a real helicopter, fighting fires on a fire engine or driving a life-sized tractor. Battersea Park Children’s Zoo is a world of adventure for little ones. Meet meerkats, monkeys, farm animals, ring-tailed lemurs, Scottish wildcats, otters and more in this special and magical place.

OPEN: Open all year except 25 and 26 December. Spring/summer 10am-5.30pm. Autumn/winter 10am-4.30pm or dusk. Advised last admission is half an hour before closing time ADMISSION: See the website for details

Greenwich Royal Tours Greenwich, London T: +44 (0)800 1804565 www.greenwichroyaltours.com

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e specialise in small group guided walking tours in Greenwich and central London. Our tours are informative, very personable and always fun.

Our flagship tour is our Best of Greenwich Day Tour which includes a visit to the now reopened magnificent Painted Hall and a pub lunch by the Thames.

Other Greenwich tours include: Greenwich Highlights Half Day, Greenwich Food and our new Greenwich Peninsula Tour.

Our specialty tours in central London include: Law in London, Shakespeare in London, Secret Gardens of London and our new Art in London Tour.

Maximum of six people per tour. Private tours available. So come along and let us treat you like royalty!

For a key to symbols please see page 147

LONDON

Faulty Towers The Dining Experience Radisson Blu Edwardian Bloomsbury Street Hotel, 9-13 Bloomsbury Street, London WC1B 3QD T: +44 (0) 845 154 4145 (Mon-Fri, 9am-5pm only) www.faultytowersdining.com

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top attraction of London’s theatre scene since 2012 and worldwide since 1997, this fantastic immersive show uses actors to put audiences right at the heart of the action.

It’s an irrepressible, irresistible blend of top-flight improvisation and tight theatrical script where ‘chaos’ reigns right from the start as Basil, Sybil and Manuel dish up plenty of laughs and a 3-course meal. Expect the unexpected in the show that’s 70% improvised!

With 22 years of global touring, this is officially the world’s most sought-after tribute to the BBC’s Fawlty Towers and the most successful interactive comedy show of its kind – perfect for anyone and everyone keen for an unforgettable night out.

‘Outrageously funny’ Broadway Baby Check out Interactive Theatre International’s sister show Only Fools The (cushty) Dining Experience at onlyfoolsdining.com OPEN: Six shows every week, year-round: Thursday-Sunday evening and Saturday-Sunday lunch. Dinner shows 7:30pm Thursday-Saturday; 6:30pm Sundays. Lunch shows at 1:30pm. ADMISSION: Tickets from £70 per person. All tickets include 2-hour show and 3-course meal.

www.britain-magazine.com

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The Royal Air Force Museum Grahame Park Way, Colindale, London NW9 5LL T: +44 (0) 20 8205 2266 london@rafmuseum.org www.rafmuseum.org

Kendall Cars 34 Aldershot Road, Guildford, Surrey GU2 8AF T: +44 (0) 800 770007 www.kendallcars.com

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xplore the fascinating story of the first 100 years of the RAF. Debate the future, test your flying skills, be amazed by stories of bravery, love and loss. Marvel at our world-class collection of aircraft, medals and uniforms. Become a Dambuster in our new immersive virtual reality experience (charges apply). Catch up with friends in our café and restaurant. Families will love our themed outdoor play area.

OPEN: Entry is free and we’re open daily from 10am, except 24 -26 December and 1 January

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ake the most of your visit to Great Britain by taking in the many wonderful sights from the comfort of a quality hire vehicle. Kendall Cars has more than 50 years of experience in matching customers to their perfect mode of transport for the journey they need to make.

Whether you are exploring Britain’s beautiful towns and cities, touring the stunning countryside or driving the length of the country to reach your destination, they can meet your motoring needs.

For something compact and stylish, their fleet boasts a collection of smaller, economical cars as well as an impressive number of medium-sized vehicles with more space for luggage and passengers. For larger groups or families, choose a roomy seven-seater, or even a mini-bus for up to 14 people.

If iconic British style is what you are aiming for, you cannot beat their BMW MINI range and, for a touch of luxury and class, they offer a selection of Mercedes C-Class vehicles too.

Your holiday can get off to a stress-free start as Kendall Cars can arrange for a driver to meet you at Gatwick or Heathrow airport and, with low deposits, no hidden costs and the option of a free additional driver, you are in safe, experienced hands.

Make your trip to Britain even more memorable. Book with Kendall Cars today.

For a key to symbols please see page 147

LONDON

London Marriott Hotel County Hall Westminster Bridge Road, SE1 7PB T:+44 (0)20 7928 5200 www.marriottcountyhall.com

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hen it comes to exceptional luxury stays in the heart of the city, London Marriott Hotel County Hall is the ultimate five-star destination.

Located at the foot of Westminster Bridge, the hotel is only a short walk from the capital’s top attractions. Guests will enjoy an effortlessness that comes from being front and centre of the action.

Accommodation ranges from classic-style Deluxe Rooms with outstanding views of the Jubilee Gardens, River Thames and the London Eye, to the Executive Rooms with views of the Houses of Parliament and Big Ben. The 12 suites boast stunning 180-degree views offering an incredible vista across the River Thames.

The hotel’s signature restaurant, Gillray’s Steakhouse & Bar serves some of the best Aberdeen Angus Steaks in town, sourced from trusted farms around England. The menu offers a wide range of cuts, bone-in and bone-out.

From the moment guests arrive, they truly experience a unique stay in the heart of London with a view to cherish and remember for years to come.

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Coach House Rentals

Auto-International Car Rental

T: +44 (0) 20 83553192 www.chsrentals.com

T: +44 (0) 20 8764 6490 www.auto-international.com

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family owned company with over 30 years experience in the UK vehicle rental market. We are able to offer the very best deal in car rental throughout the UK. All our UK rentals come with a free second driver and unlimited mileage.

We offer a unique “Meet & Greet” service at London’s Heathrow and Gatwick airports. We guarantee to have you on your way in under 10 minutes from meeting in the arrivals hall. We can also deliver the car to your hotel or contact address.

All our cars are newly registered and come with 24-hour breakdown and recovery service. Cars can be taken overseas but must be returned to the UK. One-way rentals between any UK location available. For a fast and friendly quote please contact us now or go to our easy to use website.

NATIONAL TRUST IMAGES / MARK BOLTON

SOUTHWEST ENGLAND

ive like a local. Stay in one of our vacation rentals and stay in a real London home – you will have the place to yourself and we provide a full concierge service, including arranging an airport transfer.

With some 50 hand-picked London holiday rental properties and the services of our experienced reservation team, we can help you choose what’s right for you, taking the hassle and frustration out of choosing and booking your ideal London holiday home.

Join the many thousands of happy guests we’ve looked after since 2001.

Lacock Abbey, Fox Talbot Museum & Village Lacock, NR Chippenham, Wiltshire SN15 2LG T: +44 (0)1249 730459 www.nationaltrust.org.uk/lacock

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here are 800 years of history to explore at Lacock Abbey; from its beginnings as a medieval nunnery, to the Victorian family home that saw the invention of the first photographic negative, and now a popular film location, famous from Harry Potter and Wolf Hall. The Fox Talbot Museum tells the history of photography while the picturesque village, recognisable from Pride and Prejudice and Cranford, is full of lovely local shops.

OPEN: 10.30am-5.30pm until 3 Nov; 11am-4pm from 4 Nov (Great Hall only open at weekends, 9 Nov - 24 Nov and Thurs-Sun, 28 Nov - 29 Dec). Closed 25 - 26 Dec and 1 Jan 2020. ADMISSION: Adults £14.50, children £7.20, National Trust members and under 5s free.

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Diversitea Café Corn Hall, Market Place, Cirencester GL72NY T: +44 (0)1285 655855 Instagram: @diversiteacafe www.diversiteacafe.co.uk

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iversitea Café offers the ultimate tea experience: a wide range of ‘specialiteas’ are served in beautiful vintage china. Made-to-order sandwiches and paninis are offered, as well as scrumptious, home-baked cakes, with gluten-free and vegan options. Whether it’s a quiet cuppa with a friend, afternoon tea or a celebration, make it a memorable occasion at Diversitea.

Dog-friendly, wheelchair access, wi-fi.

OPEN: Monday to Thursday 10am-4pm, Friday 9am-3pm, Saturday 10am4.30pm, selected Sundays (please see website for details).

For a key to symbols please see page 147

SOUTHWEST ENGLAND

Coast with the Most www.coastwiththemost.com

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ournemouth, Christchurch and Poole offer year-round city-style, countryside and coastal experiences like no other. Just a stone’s throw from the World Heritage Jurassic Coast and the New Forest, visit a world-class city by the sea with award-winning beaches, coastal nature reserves, vibrant towns and vast stunning natural harbours.

Each resort prides itself on putting on fun, colourful and family friendly events throughout the year.

Bournemouth hosts the ever-popular annual Air Festival, as well as Arts by the Sea and the magical Christmas Tree Wonderland.

Christchurch is a food lovers’ paradise with its food and drink festival and Poole is home to Wave 105 Summertime in the South, with events including Poole Harbour Boat Show, the British Beach Polo Championship and Folk on the Quay.

Take a visit down south and discover the Coast with the Most!

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Arundells

Gloucester Cathedral

59 The Cathedral Close, Salisbury, Wiltshire SP1 2EN T: +44 (0)1722 326546 www.arundells.org

College Green, Gloucester, Gloucestershire GL1 2LX T: +44 (0) 1452 528095 www.gloucestercathedral.org.uk

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rundells is the beautiful former home of Sir Edward Heath – Prime Minister, sailor and musician. Discover paintings and drawings by Sir Winston Churchill, LS Lowry, John Singer Sargent and John Piper. Browse Japanese woodblock prints and hand painted Chinese wallpaper or take a look at photographs, political cartoons, sailing and musical memorabilia. The house is home to vases gifted by Chairman Mao and Lloyd George’s writing desk. It also has a peaceful garden with river frontage and stunning views for visitors.

OPEN: 23 March to 5 November. Saturday to Tuesday. 11 am to 5pm ADMISSION: Adults £7.50. Garden only £3.50. Children 12 and under free of charge. Wednesdays pre-booked guided tours £12.

warm welcome awaits you at Gloucester Cathedral, one of the finest medieval buildings in the country. Visit the spectacular fan-vaulted Cloisters, the magnificent Great East Window, the amazing Whispering Gallery and the beautiful tomb of King Edward II. You can also see where Harry Potter, Sherlock and The Spanish Princess were filmed. It’s going to be a great year and we look forward to seeing you soon...

OPEN: Every day 8am-6pm. Check website for closures.

ADMISSION: Free (donation requested).

The Holburne Museum Great Pulteney Street, Bath BA2 4DB T: +44 (0) 1225 388569 www.holburne.org

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ne of Bath’s great Georgian buildings, The Holburne Museum is only a ten minute walk from the centre of town. Set within five acres of beautiful grounds – once enjoyed by Jane Austen – the museum now features a stunning modern extension as well as the Grade I-listed building.

Experience critically acclaimed exhibitions of historical and contemporary art, as well as lectures, concerts, workshops and events against a backdrop of renowned 18th century portraits, portrait miniatures, Renaissance bronzes, ceramics, silver and embroidery.

The Garden Café also serves fresh seasonal lunches and delicious cakes for visitors to enjoy.

OPEN: Monday to Saturday 10am-5pm, Sunday and bank holidays 11am-5pm. Closed 24-26 December and 1 January.

ADMISSION: Please check the website for details.

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SOUTHWEST ENGLAND

Bath Holiday Rentals T: +44 (0)1225 482 225 E: alexa@bathholidayrentals.com Twitter: @bathholsrentals Facebook: /bathholidayrentals Instagram: @batholidayrentals www.bathholidayrentals.com

Visit Somerset & Exmoor www.visitsomerset.co.uk www.visit-exmoor.co.uk

www.britain-magazine.com

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ath Holiday Rentals are a local Bath company providing a personable service. All properties are four and five star and most properties are in exclusive locations around Bath including the famous Royal Crescent, The Circus and Great Pulteney Street.

Our extensive portfolio of more than 70 properties has period apartments, stylish and contemporary flats, Georgian town houses, and country homes with saunas, hot tubs and games rooms.

We can comfortably accommodate parties from 1 to 20 people. Properties are serviced weekly, all are well-equipped with self-catering facilities and come with Wifi, linens, toiletries, parking and a welcome hamper for guests.

When booking please use reference BRITAIN and we will ensure to include a lovely bottle of wine.

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omething for everyone. Think of Somerset, and what comes to mind? Is it stunning views across open countryside, sandy beaches or cheese and cider? The county is famous for Glastonbury Festival, Cheddar Gorge, illuminated carnivals and Arthurian legends.

Somerset really does have something for everyone from coastal cliffs to moorland, from historic towns to village greens and from arts festivals to agricultural shows. It has a World Heritage site, Exmoor National Park, a Jurassic Coast, internationally important wetlands and four Areas of Outstanding Natural Beauty.

If it is adventure you crave, try caving. If it is authentic taste you seek, book a food safari. If wildlife is your passion, discover the Avalon Marshes. As for history, you will be walking in the footsteps of kings and poets.

You can stay in a luxury hotel, a yurt or a farmhouse. You can ride on a horse, a narrowboat or a steam train.

Whatever the ingredients for your perfect holiday, Somerset and Exmoor have the recipes for some unforgettable experiences. www.visitsomerset.co.uk/explore-somerset/download-the-visit-somerset-ebook

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Museum of East Asian Art

Footpath Holidays

12 Bennett Street, Bath BA1 2QJ T: +44 (0) 1225 464640 www.meaa.org.uk

16 Norton Bavant, Warminster, Wiltshire BA12 7BB T: + 44 (0) 1985 840049 www.footpath-holidays.com

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ootpath Holidays has been an expert provider of walking holidays throughout England, Wales and the Scottish Borders since 1983. A family-run business, it offers top-quality walking breaks with a reputation for professionalism, customer care and enthusiasm.

Based in the heart of rural England, Footpath Holidays is the perfect choice to make sure you get the very best experiences from your visit to the British countryside, whether on a guided, self-guided or bespoke holiday.

OPEN: March to November

BOOKING REQUIRED

BOOKING REQUIRED

his is the only museum in the UK solely dedicated to arts and culture from East and South East Asia, with a collection of almost 2,000 objects representing over 7,000 years of artistry and craftsmanship. Just a few metres off The Circus in central Bath, the museum is a sanctuary of tranquility in a busting World Heritage city.

OPEN: Tuesday to Saturday, 10am-5pm; Sunday, 12pm-5pm.

Closed on Monday, Bank Holiday Mondays, Christmas to New Year.

Last admission at 4.15pm.

ADMISSION: Adults: £5; seniors: £4; children under 16 and full-time students (with ID): free.

Portscatho Holidays

Bodmin & Wenford Railway

3 The Quay, St Mawes, Truro, Cornwall TR2 5DG T: +44 (0) 1326 270900 www.portscathoholidays.co.uk

Bodmin General Station, Bodmin, Cornwall PL31 1AG T: +44 (0) 1208 73555 www.bodminrailway.co.uk

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ortscatho Holidays in St Mawes offers one of the largest selections of holiday cottages in South Cornwall. Set on the beautiful Roseland Peninsula in South Cornwall, we have a choice of waterside residences, contemporary homes and traditional country cottages. Our holiday cottages are situated in the best coastal, rural and waterside locations in St Mawes, Portscatho and all villages on The Roseland. A holiday home is a great way to enjoy your holiday time in Cornwall - your own space to relax into, no time constraints and we also have a good selection of dog friendly and family friendly cottages to choose from, so the whole family can spend their holiday together. Every year our guests return to enjoy the best of our holiday cottages, the sandy beaches, sea views, sailing in the Carrick Roads and walks along the glorious South West Coast path.

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his Cornish steam railway is the perfect station stop for families, groups and enthusiasts and visitors of all ages. Journey aboard a heritage steam or diesel train, magically transporting you back to a previous era of travel. Explore six and a half miles of track with a Freedom of the Line ticket – pay once and travel all day.

OPEN: Selected dates throughout the year, regularly from March to October.

Standard opening times 10am-5pm.

ADMISSION: Adults: £13.50, children: £6.50, under 3s free: seniors: £12.50.

For a key to symbols please see page 147

SOUTHWEST ENGLAND

Thermae Bath Spa A The Hetling Pump Room, Hot Bath Street, Bath BA1 1SJ T: +44 (0)1225 33 1234 reservations@thermaebathspa.com info@thermaebathspa.com www.thermaebathspa.com

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s Britain’s original natural thermal spa, people have bathed in the natural thermal waters of Bath for thousands of years. The hot springs are a wonderful, natural resource using rain that fell around 10,000 years ago.

In the heart of the World Heritage Site, Thermae Bath Spa is a remarkable combination of old and new where you can bathe in the mineral-rich waters as the Celts and Romans did over 2,000 years ago.

By day and by night, you can simply turn up for a 2-hour spa session in the New Royal Bath. A spa session gives full use of the open-air rooftop pool with spectacular views over the city, the indoor Minerva Bath, the multi-sensory Wellness Suite plus access to the Springs Café and Restaurant. Additionally, you can choose from over 30 spa treatments and packages. Spa treatments range from traditional massages and facials to hot stone therapies and Thermae’s signature treatments such as Watsu or water shiatsu. The selection of spa packages offers great value with a choice of spa sessions, treatments and meals in the Springs Restaurant. All spa treatments and packages including treatments should be booked in advance.

OPEN: Daily from 9am to 9pm.

ADMISSION: From Monday to Friday, a 2-hour spa session, including use of towel, robe and slippers costs £36, £40 on a Saturday and Sunday.

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Glastonbury Abbey Abbey Gatehouse, Magdalene Street, Glastonbury, Somerset BA6 9EL T: +44 (0) 1458 832267 www.glastonburyabbey.com

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lastonbury Abbey is connected with legend more than any other abbey in England. Since medieval times it has held legendary status as the earliest Christian foundation in Britain linked to Joseph of Arimathea and the burial place of King Arthur.

Today, it lies in a tranquil setting, and offers an opportunity for visitors to discover the stories behind the ruins, with tours from costumed ‘living history’ presenters in the grounds. These tours are free, but should be booked in advance for groups.

A packed events calendar brings performances, concerts, exhibitions and workshops to the abbey grounds every year.

School and university groups can enjoy tailor-made itineraries, and there are specific activities for families, too.

An accredited museum showcases items from the abbey’s history and gives more information about the chronology of events and archaeological finds. It also offers an insight into monastic life. There are 36 acres of parkland to explore with a dedicated wildlife area, and a medieval kitchen garden, gift shop and café are open all year round.

OPEN: All year round, except Christmas Day. ADMISSION: Adults £9.10*, over 60s £7.90*, students (with card) £7.90*, children (5-15) £5.45*, families (2 adults, up to 3 children) £23.10* * Gift Aid Admission.

Hestercombe Gardens Cheddon Fitzpaine, Taunton, Somerset TA2 8LQ T: +44 (0)1823 413923 www.hestercombe.com

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ften referred to as the ‘jewel in Somerset’s crown’, Hestercombe Gardens is famous for a unique collection of gardens spanning three centuries of garden history and design. The Edwardian Formal Garden is hailed as one of the finest examples of the world-renowned partnership between garden designer Gertrude Jekyll and architect Sir Edwin Lutyens.

The gardens have undergone acclaimed restoration work and they continue to develop and grow, giving visitors a stunning setting to explore, learn and relax.

The award-winning visitor facilities include the welcoming Stables Kitchen Café, serving home-made lunches, cakes and hot drinks, with a bright, airy courtyard, gift shop and plant centre. Inside the historic Hestercombe House find the grand Column Room Restaurant serving quintessential English afternoon teas and delicious light lunches (Wed – Sun only).

Also within the House, Hestercombe Gallery presents the best in contemporary arts practice with regularly changing exhibitions, and the second-hand bookshop offers a wide selection of categories covering gardening, travel, fiction, children’s, cookery, specialist titles and more.

OPEN: Daily (except Christmas Day), 10am-5pm (April-October), 10am-4pm (November-March).

ADMISSION: Adults: £12.50, children: £6.25. Discounts for family saver tickets, tramper hire and wheelchair users. Visit Hestercombe and upgrade your ticket to an annual membership for just the difference in cost.

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For a key to symbols please see page 147

SOUTHEAST ENGLAND

Leeds Castle Maidstone, Kent ME17 1PL T: +44 (0)1622 767000 www.leeds-castle.co.uk

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isitors never forget their first breathtaking vision of Leeds Castle in Kent, rising majestically from the still waters of its historic moat. Surrounded by 500 acres of beautiful Kentish parkland, visitors can enjoy a spiralling yew maze, free flying falconry displays and the new Adventure Golf before touring the wondrous formal gardens.

Celebrating its 900th anniversary in 2019, the Castle has been a Norman stronghold, the private property of six medieval queens, a palace used by Henry VIII and Catherine of Aragon, and an elegant early 20th-century retreat for the influential and famous. Open all-year-round, visitors to the Castle can attend special events with an annual admission ticket. They can take up punting on the moat, tour the parkland on a Segway, and stay over in one of the cosy B&B rooms and country cottages. Whatever you choose, there are endless ways to experience “the loveliest castle in the world”.

OPEN: April to September, 10am-6pm and October to March, 10am-5pm.

ADMISSION: Adults £26, seniors/students £24, children £17.50.

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SOUTHEAST ENGLAND

Discover Worthing discoverworthing.uk

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he elegant seaside town of Worthing in West Sussex is located on England’s south coast just 45 minutes from London Gatwick Airport or 80 minutes by train from London Victoria. Worthing is centrally located for day trips to the area’s top visitor attractions including Chichester, Arundel Castle and Brighton.

A classic British seaside destination, visitors will love seafront walks and exploring our famous Pier (UK Pier of the Year 2019) and, coming soon, the WOW – the largest observation wheel on the South Coast. You’ll also want to visit wonderful Highdown Gardens and the nearby South Downs National Park, the site of an Iron Age fort – look out for wild ponies and enjoy breathtaking views down to the coast.

History fans will enjoy exploring the town’s heritage; follow one of our trails and learn more about famous residents including Jane Austen and Oscar Wilde or look out for the giant bronze sculptures created by Dame Elizabeth Frink.

Creatives will enjoy Worthing’s extensive arts scene including Worthing Museum & Art Gallery, Colonnade House and quirky beach hut studios – perfect for a souvenir.

By night choose from one of our many restaurants serving everything from fine dining to traditional fish and chips and then take in a show at either the Connaught or Pavilion Theatres or a movie at one of the UK’s oldest working cinemas.

For more information visit discoverworthing.uk

Saffron Walden Tourist Information Centre, 1 Market Place, Saffron Walden, Essex CB10 1HR T: +44 (0) 1799 524002 www.visitsaffronwalden.gov.uk

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affron Walden is a picturesque, medieval town, in north-west Essex. It has a rich heritage of old buildings reflecting its wealth as a rural market town.

There are many interesting historic buildings in the town. At the heart lies St Mary’s Church, the largest parish church in Essex. Fine examples of elaborate moulded plasterwork (pargetting), can be seen on the Old Sun Inn and the houses in Castle Street and Bridge Street. Also of note are the Eight Bells, the timber-framed Cross Keys, and the medieval building located at 1 Myddylton Place.

Nearby, Saffron Walden Museum is of particular interest. The collections are housed in one of the oldest purpose built museum buildings in the country, completed in 1835. It has everything from mammoth tusks to mummies, from an early Tudor bed to a natural history museum gallery. In the grounds of the museum are the ruins of the Castle Keep which dates back to the 12th century.

Bridge End Garden is a real jewel and an environment of great charm on the north side of Saffron Walden. Careful restoration has replicated gardening techniques and designs typical of the Victorian era and brought the garden back to its full splendour.

The hedge maze is of particular appeal to children. The path into the garden passes the Fry Art Gallery which houses a collection of works by a Great Bardfield group of artists who settled in the Essex countryside in the 1930s.

A market has been held here since 1141, and market days are now Tuesdays and Saturdays with shoppers enjoying browsing and buying goods from a variety of market stalls. Beyond the market place, there are many independent shops and eating places to choose from.

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SOUTHEAST ENGLAND

Oxford University’s O Gardens, Libraries & Museums Oxford, Oxfordshire glam.communications@ox.ac.uk www.mindgrowing.org

www.britain-magazine.com

xford University is home to some of the world’s most fascinating museums and collections. Go on a journey of discovery through culture, science and natural history while exploring some of Oxford’s most historic buildings and beautiful green spaces.

View Anglo-Saxon treasures and modern masterpieces at the Ashmolean Museum, and study the blackboard used by Albert Einstein at the History of Science Museum. Examine a Bronze Age Celtic war trumpet at the Pitt Rivers Museum, and marvel at a 4.6 billion-year-old meteorite at the Museum of Natural History. Tour the Bodleian Library - Hogwarts’ library in the Harry Potter films - and then travel from tropical jungle to an alpine environment in the Botanic Garden.

OPEN/ADMISSION: Ashmolean Museum: Open daily, 10am-5pm. Free entry.

Bodleian Library: Open daily for tours. £4-£15.

Botanic Garden: Open daily, 9am-5pm (seasons differ). Adults £5.45, seniors £4; children under 16 free.

History of Science Museum: Open Tuesday to Sunday, 12pm-5pm. Free entry.

Museum of Natural History: Open daily, 10am-5pm. Free entry.

Pitt Rivers Museum: Open Tuesday to Sunday, 10am-4.30pm, Monday 12pm-4.30pm. Free entry.

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SOUTHEAST ENGLAND

Hever Castle & Gardens

Great Dixter House & Gardens

Hever, Kent TN8 7NG T: +44 (0)1732 865224 E: info@hevercastle.co.uk www.hevercastle.co.uk

Great Dixter, Northiam, Rye, East Sussex TN31 6PH T: +44 (0) 1797 252878 www.greatdixter.co.uk

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xperience 700 years of history at this double-moated castle, once the childhood home of Anne Boleyn. The splendid rooms contain fine furniture, tapestries, antiques and important Tudor paintings. Discover award-winning gardens in 125 acres of grounds which guarantee a breathtaking display.

OPEN: See website for details.

ADMISSION: Castle & gardens, adults £17.75; children £9.95; under 5s free; seniors £15.60. Gardens only, adults £14.95; children £9.40; under 5s free; seniors £13.45.

isit the famous house and gardens of the late gardening writer, Christopher Lloyd. Great Dixter was the focus of his energy and inspired over 40 years of writing. There’s a specialist plant nursery, shop and refreshments, as well as the Great Barn and Oast House, now open to the public after conservation work.

OPEN: 30 March to 27 October 2019, Tuesday to Sunday and Bank Holiday Monday. Gardens: 11am-5pm; House: 1pm-4pm.

ADMISSION: Adults £13.20, children (5-15) £3.30. Gardens only: adults £11, children (5-15) £2.75. Group discount for 25+.

New build Saint class locomotive 2999 Lady Of Legend, on the turntable

Amberley House Cottage Holidays Pulborough House, 91 Lower Street, Pulborough, West Sussex RH20 2BP T: +44 (0) 1798 877336 www.amberleyhousecottages.co.uk

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mberley House Cottage Holidays is a leading independent holiday lettings agency based in Sussex with offices in Pulborough and Rye. We enjoy living here and we know the county and the South Downs National Park well. Our mission is to provide you with a friendly, professional and of course a local service whether you are a visiting guest to Sussex or a second homeowner who wants to enjoy the benefits of working with a local team. We offer our guests a choice, to book their accommodation with ease online, or for those who would prefer to talk to us and want some advice and a little guidance on where best to stay, then we are always on the end of the telephone.

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Didcot Railway Centre DIidcot, Oxfordshire OX11 7NJ T: +44 (0) 1235 817200 www.didcotrailwaycentre.org.uk

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ecreating the golden age of the Great Western Railway (GWR), Didcot Railway Centre features 20 GWR steam locomotives, as well as many carriages, wagons and cranes. There is also a unique replica broad gauge locomotive. Original buildings and structures include a 1932 four road engine shed, an 1857 transfer shed, a coaling stage, signal boxes, signalling, and a turntable. Steamdays, gala events, and the themed ‘Day Out With Thomas’ are popular with visitors.

OPEN: Every weekend and most school holidays. Daily 16 February-6 October, 26 October-3 November, 10.30am-4pm, although open till 5pm on steamdays and during summer.

For a key to symbols please see page 147

SOUTHEAST ENGLAND

Arundel Castle Arundel, West Sussex BN18 9AB T: +44 (0) 1903 882173 www.arundelcastle.org

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ne of the largest inhabited and complete castles in England, Arundel Castle is situated in magnificent grounds overlooking the River Arun in West Sussex. Steeped in 1,000 years of history, the castle offers a full day out with guided and free-flow tours of the finely preserved castle rooms and an action-packed calendar of historical events.

Further information on Arundel Castle can be found at www.arundelcastle.org.

OPEN: The castle is open 2 April – 3 November, 10am-5pm, Tuesday to Sunday, and Mondays in August and Bank Holiday Mondays.

ADMISSION: Tickets start from £13 for adults and children. For more information please visit www.arundelcastle.org.

LIMITED ACCESS

Oxford Castle & Prison 44-46 Oxford Castle, Oxford OX1 1AY T: +44 (0) 1865 260666 www.oxfordcastleandprison.co.uk

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iscover 1,000 years of Oxford’s history. Oxford Castle & Prison is a fascinating visitor attraction with a past stretching far beyond your imagination. For hundreds of years, it has held both famous and infamous residents, serving time as a religious site, a home for royalty, a centre of justice and even as the county jail.

Led by costumed character guides, tours reveal the rich history of the castle. Climb the Saxon St George’s Tower, descend deep underground into the crypt, explore the prison D-wing and scale the mound of the 11th-century motte-and-bailey castle.

Tours leave up to every 20 minutes from the admissions area in the gift shop. After your tour you will be able to look round the Debtors’ Tower and the exhibition wing. The wider castle site will also be available for you to explore at your own leisure.

OPEN: Daily 10am-5.30pm. The site will be closed from 24 – 26 December 2019.

ADMISSION 2019: Adults £12.50, children £8.50, students £10.50, seniors £10.50, families £39.

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SOUTHEAST ENGLAND

Chawton House Chawton, Alton, Hampshire GU34 1SJ T: +44 (0)1420 541 010 www.chawtonhouse.org

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hawton House was owned by Jane Austen’s brother Edward, and known to her as ‘the Great House’.

Jane lived in a cottage on his estate and would stroll up to ‘dawdle away’ many an hour in the grand Elizabethan manor and its picturesque gardens. Visitors can saunter through the grounds, see Austen heirlooms, such as the dining table at which Jane would have enjoyed family meals, and explore the extensive collection of early women’s writing.

Whether you are inspired by women’s literature, keen to follow in Austen’s footsteps and explore the beautiful gardens or simply to enjoy lunch or a slice of cake in the Old Kitchen Tearoom, the friendly staff and volunteers will make you feel at home.

OPEN: 4 March -16 December, 11am-4:30pm.

ADMISSION: Adults: £10, seniors: £8, children: £5, under 6s: free.

Parham House & Gardens Pulborough, West Sussex RH20 4HS T: +44 (0)1903 742021 www.parhaminsussex.co.uk

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et in the heart of an ancient deer park below the South Downs, Parham House and Gardens offers an unforgettable day out.

One of the country’s finest Elizabethan houses, its tranquility and timeless beauty has changed little over the centuries. The main rooms of the house are the Great Hall, Great Chamber and Long Gallery, which contain an outstanding collection of pictures, furniture and needlework.

The beautiful four-acre eighteenth-century Walled Garden includes a vegetable garden, orchard and a wonderful 1920s Wendy House. Its opulent mixed borders and expansive greenhouse provide flowers and plants to decorate every room in the house, an old Parham tradition.

Visitors can enjoy a selection of homemade cakes and light lunches in Parham’s former Tudor kitchen. Discover the Gift Shop with a wonderful range of gifts, books and preserves, using produce from the gardens. There is also the opportunity to take home a piece of Parham horticulture, with over 200 herbaceous perennials on sale in the Nursery.

Photo: Long Gallery, Elizabeth Zeschin Photo: Parham House and Gardens, Trevor Sims

OPEN: 21 April to 13 October on Wednesdays, Thursdays, Fridays, Sundays and Bank Holidays: gardens 12pm–5pm, house 2pm–5pm.

ADMISSION: Adults: £12, children: £6, concessions: £11.

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SOUTHEAST ENGLAND

Red Brighton Blue

Oxford Punting

7 Charlotte Street, Brighton BN2 1AG T: +44 (0)1273 256 300 stay@redbrightonblue.com www.redbrightonblue.com

The Old Horse Ford, High Street, Oxford OX1 4AU T: +44 (0) 1865 202643 www.oxfordpunting.co.uk

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ed Brighton Blue is a newly refurbished 11-bedroom boutique guest house, just off the sea front and less than a 10-minute walk to the pier, Royal Pavilion and city centre. The historic Georgian townhouse is set over five floors, with spacious, luxury ensuite rooms, all tastefully decorated and with many original features. There’s a beautiful courtyard garden for guests to relax in and the hotel is renowned for offering one of the best breakfasts in Brighton. Red Brighton has a truly friendly, personal service – with live-in owner managers, Peter and Steve, on hand to offer any assistance or advice to enhance your stay in Brighton.

10-20% Discount for Summer/Winter Bookings by Email/Phone with code BRITAIN2020

isit Oxford’s Magdalen Bridge Boathouse to hire a traditional Oxford punt, rowing boat or pedalo and enjoy cruising along Oxford’s stunning River Cherwell. Situated underneath Magdalen College Tower, at the lower end of Oxford’s world famous high street, you will find Magdalen Bridge Boathouse.

Here you can hire traditionally crafted punts, rowing boats and pedalos or spoil yourself by hiring a chauffeured boat. We can also supply a pre-ordered picnic hamper with your chauffeured punt if requested. You can hire a boat for just an hour or if you want to make a day of it, take a picnic and stay out on the river as long as you like, returning the punt at least half an hour before sunset.

OPEN: 7 days a week from 1 February (weather permitting) to 30 November, 9.30am–9pm (or 1 hour before sunset).

Visit 1066 Country T: +44 (0)1424 451111 E: visit1066country@hastings.gov.uk @1066country @visit1066 visit1066country.com

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eave the cities behind and head for the sea, where the wooded hills of the Sussex Weald reach England’s south coast. Here you’ll find 1066 Country with its historic towns of Battle, Bexhill, Hastings, Herstmonceux, Pevensey and Rye. Set deep in history, its ancient settlements nestle in a rich landscape of woods, marshes and shorelines. Open skies and broad horizons inspire the imagination.

From earliest times to today its people and places enjoy a spirit of openness, creativity, peace and escape. Original by nature, it has its own take on contemporary living.

Alternative lives, lived on the edge, come together with countryside and customs that embody many of our English origins. The produce of the land and sea arrives fresh to your table. Old traditions meet a thriving new art and music scene. Castles and forts tell timeless stories of invasion and conquest.

This is 1066 Country of Origin.

Visit the battlefield where the course of English history was determined in 1066. Tour our vineyards, gardens, galleries and museums. Join in one of our many festivals, just like a local. Experience real England for yourself.

Direct trains from London Charing Cross to rural and coastal Sussex. Quick rail links from Ashford International and St Pancras International.

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SOUTHEAST ENGLAND

Buscot Park Nr. Faringdon, Oxfordshire SN7 8BU T: +44 (0) 1367 240932 www.buscot-park.com

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EAST OF ENGLAND

HEART OF ENGLAND

Waterperry, Nr Wheatley, Oxfordshire OX33 1LA T: +44 (0) 1844 339254 www.waterperrygardens.co.uk

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aterperry Gardens comprises eight acres of beautifully landscaped ornamental gardens, including a formal knot, rose and alpine garden and one of the country’s finest purely herbaceous borders. Visit the plant centre, gift barn, gallery, rural life museum and teashop for lunch and cakes. Events all year round, and arts, crafts and gardening courses. Seven miles from Oxford.

OPEN: Every day, 10am-5.30pm (October to March, 5pm), except between Christmas Day and New Year’s Day. ADMISSION: February to October, £8.50; November to January, £6.

Cottesbrooke Hall & Gardens Cottesbrooke, Northampton NN6 8PF T: +44 (0) 1604 505808 www.cottesbrooke.co.uk

LIMITED

Waterperry Gardens

BY APPOINTMENT

he 18th century Buscot Park gardens were designed to complement the estate’s Palladian house and include stately water cascades by Harold Peto.

Docwra’s Manor Garden Shepreth , Royston, Herts SG8 6PS T: +44 (0)1763 260 677 www.docwrasmanorgarden.co.uk

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ll year round these varied gardens within old farm walls and hedges provide real interest to visitors, with ideas that you can apply to your own garden.

ADMISSION: £5. Extra charge for out of hours parties and guided tours.

Discover Newmarket Palace House, Palace Street, Newmarket CB8 8EP T: +44 (0)344 748 9200 www.discovernewmarket.co.uk

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ottesbrooke is a wonderful Queen Anne house, dating from 1702 and set in delightful award-winning gardens in rural Northamptonshire. The hall is home to the Woolavington Collection of sporting art, which is the finest of its type in Europe. The remarkable 18th-century landscaping of the park, its vistas and lakes provide the backdrop to the hall.

etrace the steps of royalty and explore the home of horseracing with Discover Newmarket. Go behind the scenes and learn more about the royal connection to the sport of kings. Take a tour of The National Stud or visit Palace House and browse an impressive collection of British sporting art. Spend time on the famed training grounds before going behind the scenes in a racing yard. A visit to Newmarket is a chance to explore the town’s rich history and heritage.

OPEN: 1 May to 26 September. May and June: Wednesday and Thursday 2pm-5.30pm. July, August and September: Thursday only, 2pm-5.30pm. Bank Holiday Mondays (May to September) 2pm-5.30pm.

OPEN: January to December, 9am to 5.30pm, please see our website for tour times.

ADMISSION: Tours from £11.

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EAST OF ENGLAND

Cambridge University Botanic Garden

Cambridge River Tours La Mimosa Punt Station, Thompson’s Lane, Cambridge T: +44 (0) 1223 927331 www.puntcambridge.co.uk/bag-2019/

1 Brookside, Cambridge CB2 1 JE T: +44 (0)1223 336265 www.botanic.cam.ac.uk

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unting is as synonymous with Cambridge as the University itself. On our chauffeured tours you’ll pass through the most famous of Cambridge University’s colleges, enjoying dramatic glimpses of history visible only from the river. Sit back and see where the likes of Olivia Coleman, Sir Isaac Newton and Stephen Hawking sharpened their minds.

Visit our website or quote BAG2019 for your special discount.

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ambridge University Botanic Garden is one of the largest university-owned botanic gardens in the world. With over 8,000 species from all over the world, spread over 40 acres of beautiful gardens and glasshouses in the centre of Cambridge, it offers all year-round interest and inspiration.

Highlights include: seasonal colour in the Winter and Autumn Gardens, the Scented Garden, Bee Borders, the Dry Garden, the Lake, Glasshouse Range and the Rising Path.

OPEN: 2 January to 24 December; please see our website for times.

ADMISSION: Adults: £6; concession (over 65) £5.50; children free.

Scudamore’s T Punting Cambridge Granta Place, Mill Lane, Cambridge CB2 1RS T: +44 (0)1223 359750 www.scudamores.com

he tradition of punting in Cambridge is world famous, with punt tours featuring at the top of everyone’s list of things to do. The traditional punts offer a luxurious glimpse into the city’s history.

Alternatively, if you’re looking to have your very own Cambridge adventure on the river then renting one of the self-hire punts is just the thing! Head along the inspiring College Backs for a sense of grandeur or choose a punt in the direction of rural Grantchester – a small village next to Cambridge, full of history.

Scudamore’s Punting Cambridge first introduced pleasure punting to the city in the early 20th century.

Remaining true to Jack Scudamore’s original vision from 1910, the River Cam can be enjoyed by all, offering the traditional boating services to everyone.

OPEN: All year except 25 Dec, 9am until dusk.

ADMISSION: Adults: £22, children: £12.50, students/seniors: £20.50.

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EAST OF ENGLAND

Romney Marsh: Fifth Continent Hidden History Travel B14 7EP T: +44 (0) 121 4441854 www.hiddenhistory.co.uk

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here’s an old saying that the world, according to the best geographers, is divided into Europe, Asia, Africa, America and Romney Marsh. The wetland area across Kent and East Sussex is one of Britain’s most intriguing regions. Hidden churches and lost villages reveal a rich history of famous names, fascinating stories and strange mysteries since the times of Julius Caesar.

On this five-day tour, Dr Christopher Cole, a local archaeologist, invites you to join him exploring the unique heritage and rugged beauty of this coastal stretch of southern England, a landscape coloured by the sea. Dr Cole’s passion for, and knowledge of, the Marsh, its people and its history, give the tour an especially intimate insight.

The tour includes four nights staying at the historic Mermaid Inn in Rye, Sussex, including breakfast every day, a three-course dinner on the first night, daily excursions in a small coach, all entrance fees and an expert guide. You will hear about the literary associations of the area, from Edith Nesbit, author of The Railway Children, to playwright Noël Coward, as well as smugglers, shipwrecks, ghosts and hundreds of years of English history. The tours are limited to 15 participants each. Prices from £675.

OPEN: There are six tours throughout June, July and August 2019 and 2020. See the website for details.

East Anglia: Origins of England Hidden History Travel B14 7EP T: +44 (0) 121 4441854 www.hiddenhistory.co.uk

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he rich lands of Norfolk and Suffolk are steeped in the tribal origins of England and brimming with an unmatched medieval heritage. The region was at the heart of England’s Anglo-Saxon and Norman history, and its rolling fields and timbered villages are a classic representation of the English countryside.

Join historian Dr Martin Locker as he reveals the creation of medieval England. This unique six day tour includes visits to England’s ‘Valley of the Kings’ at Sutton Hoo, famous for its royal burial mounds, the richest burials ever found in northern Europe, to England’s ‘Jerusalem’ at Little Walsingham, one of the holiest shrines of medieval Christendom and to the fine Norman castles at Castle Acre and Castle Rising, now part of the Queen’s Sandringham estate. You can also explore the medieval cities of Norwich and King’s Lynn and the reconstructed Anglo-Saxon village at West Stow.

The tour includes five nights at the historic St Giles House Hotel in Norwich, with all breakfasts, two evening meals, daily excursions by small coach, all entrance fees and expert guide. Limited to 20 participants per tour.

OPEN: Tour dates available in July and August 2019 and 2020. See website for details.

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EAST OF ENGLAND

Helmingham Hall Gardens Helmingham, Stowmarket, Suffolk IP14 6EF T: +44 (0)1473 890799 E: events@helmingham.com www.helmingham.com

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he Tollemache Family have been the guardians of Helmingham since 1487. The Hall was completed in 1510, although the garden moat predates the house and is thought to be of Saxon origin. Helmingham is famous for its Grade I-listed gardens, redesigned by Lady Tollemache (a Chelsea Gold Medallist) and set within a 400-acre deer park surrounding the moated Tudor Hall. Visitors are enchanted by the herbaceous boarders within the walled kitchen garden, the rose and knot, herb and wild gardens. Every year Helmingham offers an exciting programme of events including the Festival of Classic & Sports Cars, specialist plant fairs and artisan markets and concerts in the gardens.

A delicious range of local food is served in the Coach House Tearooms, and the Stable Shops offer a wide range of local produce, plants and garden accessories.

OPEN: 1 May-15 September 2019: Tuesday, Wednesday, Thursday, Sunday and Bank Holidays 11am-4.30pm.

ADMISSION: Adults £7, children £3.50.

NORTHERN ENGLAND

Thomas Gainsborough (1727-88) Wooded Landscape with Cattle by a Pool, 1782.

Gainsborough’s House

Roman Tours

46 Gainsborough Street, Sudbury, Suffolk CO10 2EU T: +44 (0) 1787 372958 www.gainsborough.org

Tourist Information Centre, Townhall Square, Chester T: +44 (0) 1978 761264 or +44 (0) 7885 403485 www.romantoursuk.com

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OPEN: Monday to Saturday 10am-5pm. Sunday 11am-5pm.

Closed: Good Friday and between Christmas and the New Year.

Closed for major refurbishment from 27 October 2019.

OPEN: All year round, midday and 3pm except Sundays.

ADMISSION: Adults £8, children £4. Private and group bookings available.

ainsborough’s House and garden is the childhood home of one of Britain’s greatest artists, Thomas Gainsborough R.A. (1727-88). The elegant Georgian fronted townhouse and exhibition gallery shows an outstanding collection of his paintings and drawings and presents a changing programme of displays and temporary exhibitions throughout the year.

www.britain-magazine.com

oin a fascinating walking tour of Roman Chester with a Roman soldier as your guide. This tour will transport you back nearly 2,000 years to a time when Chester was the largest fortress in Britain and boasted the largest amphitheatre in the country.

Explore the remains of the amphitheatre and the biggest Roman fort (Deva Victrix) in this entertaining and informative tour. Tours last one and a half hours.

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Southeast NORTHERN England ENGLAND

York Minster

Wandering Aengus Treks

York Minster, Deangate, York YO1 7HH T: +44 (0) 1904 557200 www.yorkminster.org

E: info@WATreks.com T: +44 (0)1697 478443 www.wanderingaengustreks.com

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ork Minster is one of the world’s most magnificent cathedrals. A masterpiece in stained-glass and stone, its foundations are rooted in the nation’s earliest history.

Visit and see the cathedral’s vast spaces brought to life with the glory of worship and heavenly music. This wonderful heritage belongs to us all, so come along and experience York Minister for yourself.

OPEN: All year around. Check York Minster’s website for opening times.

xperience the beautiful North Yorkshire coast by foot on a self-guided holiday with Wandering Aengus Treks. Wandering Aengus Treks will arrange your accommodation, transfer your luggage between overnight stops and provide all the maps and information you need for a carefree walk at your own pace. Self-guided itineraries are also available for the Lake District, Hadrian’s Wall, Coast to Coast and The Pennine Way. Instead of offering hundreds of itineraries, the company’s founders pride themselves on having walked each of the routes themselves.

OPEN: Available from 1 April to 31 October.

Whitmore Hall

Brontë Parsonage Museum

Whitmore, Newcastle-Under-Lyme, Staffordshire ST5 5HW T: +44 (0) 1782 680478 E: whitmore.hall@yahoo.com www.historichouses.org/houses/house-listing/whitmore-hall.html

Church Street, Haworth, Keighley, West Yorkshire BD22 8DR T: +44 (0) 1535 642323 www.bronte.org.uk

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hitmore Hall is a Grade I listed building, designated as a house of outstanding architectural and historical interest. Parts of the hall date back 900 years and it is the seat of the Cavenagh-Mainwarings, direct descendants of the original Norman owners. The hall has beautifully proportioned light rooms and is in excellent order. There are family portraits with a continuous line dating from 1624 to the present day. The park encompasses a lime avenue leading from the hall to the parish church. There is an early Victorian summer house, refurbished in 2017 and a rare Elizabethan stable block. OPEN: 1 May-31 August: Tuesday and Wednesday, 2pm-5pm with guided tours at 2.15pm, 3pm and 3.45pm. ADMISSION: Adult: £5, child: 50p.

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et in the picturesque village of Haworth in the Yorkshire moors, the Brontë Parsonage Museum houses the world’s largest collection of Brontë furniture and personal possessions. With a programme of exhibitions, events and family activities, it offers an evocative experience for people of all ages.

OPEN: 1 April to 31 October, 10am-5.30pm; 1 November to 31 March, 10am-5pm; New Year’s Day 12 noon-5pm. Closed 24-27 December and 2-31 January. Last ticket 30 minutes before closing.

ADMISSION: Adults £9; adults 65+ £7; concessions £6.50; children £4 (under 5s free); family ticket £22. Tickets are valid for 12 months from date of purchase.

For a key to symbols please see page 147

NORTHERN ENGLAND

Durham Cathedral D The College, Durham DH1 3EH T: +44 (0) 191 3 387178 www.durhamcathedral.co.uk

www.britain-magazine.com

urham Cathedral is one of the best examples of Romanesque architecture anywhere in Europe.

Renowned for its spectacular location at the heart of the Durham UNESCO World Heritage Site, Durham Cathedral has been a place of worship, welcome and hospitality for almost a millennium, inspiring all who come. It is famous as the Shrine of St Cuthbert and the resting place of the Venerable Bede.

The Cathedral also boasts some of the UK’s best-preserved medieval monastic buildings which are home to Open Treasure, a world-class exhibition experience which includes the exquisite Treasures of St Cuthbert.

Discover 2,000 years of history on a journey from the medieval Monks’ Dormitory to the monastic Great Kitchen, as the remarkable story of Durham Cathedral and its incredible collections is revealed through permanent and temporary exhibitions.

DURHAM CATHEDRAL: Usually open until 6pm, please check www.durhamcathedral.co.uk/visit-us for notices about occasional limited access. We rely on donations, please give £3 per person when you visit to support Durham Cathedral’s future. Charges apply to group visits, guided tours and tower trips.

OPEN TREASURE: Open daily, 10am-5pm Monday-Saturday (last admission 4pm), 12.30pm-5pm Sunday (last admission 4pm). Adults £7.50; concessions £6; children (5-18) £2.50; under 5s free; family ticket £17.50.

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Southeast NORTHERN England ENGLAND

JORVIK Viking Centre Coppergate Shopping Centre, Coppergate, York YO1 9WT T: +44 (0) 1904 615505 www.jorvikvikingcentre.co.uk

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he year is AD960 and the last Viking king in Jorvik, Eric Bloodaxe, has been banished. The city is thriving with a flourishing manufacturing centre and wide trading links. There are new buildings, new people and new stories to be told...

Discover the world-famous JORVIK Viking Centre after its multi-million pound re-imagining, and explore the lives of the people who made York their home more than 1,000 years ago.

Experience our new ride with sights, sounds and, of course, smells, of the Viking Age. Delve into our updated historical displays, showcasing the cultural melting pot of 10th-century York, and benefit from the latest cutting-edge technology bringing the Viking period to life.

WALES

OPEN: April-October, 10am-5pm; November-March, 10am-4pm. During JORVIK Viking Festival, Christmas, special events and school holiday periods opening times may vary.

ADMISSION: Adults £12.50, children (5-16) £8.50, concessions £10.50, families of four £34, families of five £38. Please note: maximum of two adults per family ticket.

Skipton Castle

Aberglasney Gardens

Skipton, North Yorkshire BD23 1AW T: +44 (0) 1756 792442 www.skiptoncastle.co.uk

Aberglasney Gardens, Llangathen, Carmarthenshire SA32 8QH T: +44 (0) 1558 668998 www.aberglasney.org

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or more than 900 years, Skipton Castle has stood firm through wars and sieges at the gateway to the Yorkshire Dales. Once home to the famous Clifford Lords, it is one of the best preserved and most complete medieval castles in England.

OPEN: Open year-round. Monday-Saturday, 10am-5pm, Sunday, 11am-5pm. October-March, 4pm. Closed 23, 24, 25 December.

ADMISSION: Adults £8.50; children (5-17) £5.30; under-5s free; over-60s and students £7.40.

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berglasney was made famous by the BBC television series A Garden Lost in Time which followed its restoration. Today this is simply one of Wales’ finest gardens; a renowned plantsman’s paradise with an Elizabethan Cloister Garden at its heart. For the ultimate Aberglasney experience book a holiday in one of the historic five-star cottages within the gardens.

OPEN: April to October, 10am-6pm (last entry 5pm), November to March, 10.30am-4pm (last entry 3pm).

ADMISSION: Adults £8.90, children 16 years and under free (Please note that for certain special events admission charges will apply for children.)

For a key to symbols please see page 147

WALES

Dylan Thomas Centre Somerset Place, Swansea SA1 1RR Facebook: @DylanThomasCentre Twitter: @DTCSwansea T: +44 (0) 1792 463980 www.dylanthomas.com

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he Dylan Thomas Centre, home to the free ‘Love the Words’ exhibition, celebrates the life, work and legacy of Wales’ most famous writer. From his birth in Uplands, Swansea in 1914 to his death in New York in 1953, the exhibition explores Thomas’s biography, inspiration and writing through interactive displays and exhibits, accessible to all the family.

It includes an interactive timeline and a children’s trail featuring some of the animals that appear in Thomas’s writing. Meanwhile, the people trail focuses on some of the key figures in his life from Charlie Chaplin to Pablo Picasso, as well as the rich cultural context in which he lived. One section in the centre of the exhibition is dedicated to Thomas the writer and another to Thomas the performer. Meanwhile, touchscreens tell the story of his notebooks and explore his famous poem Do not go gentle into that good night. Listen to Thomas himself, and those who knew him, through built-in speakers in the chairs.

The Dylan Thomas Centre also offers creative writing opportunities for adults and young people, as well as free children’s activities throughout the school holidays. Events include guided tours of Dylan’s Swansea during the year. There is also a café serving cakes, scones, Dylan Thomas Centenary blend coffee, soup, salads and sandwiches.

OPEN: Tuesday-Sunday, 10am-4.30pm.

ADMISSION: Free.

Llancaiach Fawr Manor Gelligaer Road, Nelson, Treharris, Wales CF46 6ER T: +44 (0) 1443 412248 www.llancaiachfawr.co.uk

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lancaiach Fawr Manor stands proudly, as it has done since c1550, overlooking the Glamorgan uplands. Set within a restored period garden, it provides the perfect opportunity to enjoy the passing of the seasons in a tranquil location where the past and the present collide.

This superbly restored gentry manor house is no ordinary heritage attraction; the history here is tangible. The costumed servants of the house live and work in the year 1645 and allow you to share and engage in their world. Fires crackle, candles flicker and the sounds and smells of domestic life give you a memorable experience of the past. It takes a moment to attune your ear to the unfamiliar speech that echoes around the manor, but within seconds of arriving you’ll become immersed in the era of the Civil Wars and the cares and concerns of ordinary people living in extraordinary times.

In the manor gardens, as much as possible is grown just as it would have been in 1645.

The orchard contains rare varieties of apples and plants grown in the Physic garden that would have been used for cures, perfumes and in the household.

OPEN: Tuesday-Sunday; closed 5pm, Sunday 22 December 2019 to 10am, 2 January 2020.

ADMISSION: Adult: £8.50, concessions/child: £6.95, family (2 adults + 3 children): £25.

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WALES

St Davids Cathedral

Picton Castle & Gardens

St Davids, Haverfordwest, Pembrokeshire SA62 6RD T: +44 (0) 1437 720202 www.stdavidscathedral.org.uk

The Rhos, Haverfordwest, Pembrokeshire SA62 4AS T: +44 (0) 1437 751 326 www.pictoncastle.co.uk

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or almost a millennium and a half, St Davids has been a place of pilgrimage.

St David came here to find tranquillity for himself and his community. On the site of Tyddewi (St David’s house and monastery), later generations built and adorned this splendid cathedral. It has stood for more than 800 years as a noble example of medieval architecture and as a place where prayer and the praise of God are offered daily.

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OPEN: Monday-Saturday 9am-5pm, Sunday 1pm-5pm.

ADMISSION: Free (suggested donation of £5).

OPEN: April-October 9am-5pm; November-March 10am-4pm ADMISSION: Please refer to website for current prices: www.pictoncastle.co.uk

Cardiff Bay T: +44 (0)29 2087 7900 T: +44 (0)29 2082 9970 T: +44 (0)29 2087 7912 www.cardiffharbour.com www.ciww.com www.cardiffharbour.com/flatholm

xplore the 13th-century castle’s history, discover Wales’ largest collection of owls and enjoy the magnificent rhododendrons, shady woodlands, exotic jungle garden and colourful walled garden alongside living willow dens, family trails and an engaging adventure playground. An impressive schedule of events complements this award-winning RHS Partner Garden for all seasons. New for 2019 - The Mansion of Mystery and Time Machine Challenge.

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or stunning scenery and action-packed adventures, make Cardiff Bay your first port of call.

Head to Cardiff Bay Barrage to breathe in some fresh sea air and enjoy panoramic views of the Bristol Channel and Bay. The Barrage embankment is flat, making it ideal for a gentle stroll. You can also browse the free exhibitions, snap a selfie with the Enormous Crocodile, make a pit-stop at Hafren Café, or tour the Bay in style on a boat ride.

If high-octane, water-based action appeals, Cardiff International White Water should be top of your list.

Take your pick from thrilling activities including White Water Rafting, Family Rafting (suitable for children aged six and over) and Indoor Wave, which fits the bill when the weather’s misbehaving.

Alternatively, get away from it all by taking an exhilarating boat trip to Flat Holm. Situated just five miles off the coast of Cardiff, the island boasts a sense of remoteness and tranquillity, along with fascinating history and wildlife, and the most southerly pub in Wales. Set sail by booking your boat places at www.bayislandvoyages.co.uk or www.cardiffseasafaris.co.uk.

OPEN: Please see websites for opening times and admission fees.

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For a key to symbols please see page 147

SCOTLAND

Dunvegan Castle Dunvegan Castle and Gardens, Dunvegan, Isle of Skye IV55 8WF T: +44 (0)1470 521206 E: info@dunvegancastle.com www.dunvegancastle.com

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ny visit to the Isle of Skye would be incomplete without savouring the wealth of history offered by Dunvegan Castle and Gardens.

Built on a rock in an idyllic lochside setting, Dunvegan is the oldest continuously inhabited castle in Scotland. It has been the ancestral home of the Chiefs of MacLeod for 800 years and is still home to the Clan MacLeod Chief.

Take a tour of this historic castle and see the Great Sword of Dunvegan, one of only three surviving Scottish medieval claymores, or enjoy a seal boat trip – you cannot get closer to the protected common seals anywhere else on Skye.

There’s fabulous shops with a wide range of Highland and Island gifts, jewellery and knitwear, as well as beautiful gardens and walks.

And if visitors want to extend their stay, they can book one of the holiday cottages.

OPEN: 1 April-15 October, 10am-5.30pm (last admission 5pm).

ADMISSION: For admission rates, please visit our website: www.dunvegancastle.com.

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scotland

Wilderness Cottages T: +44 (0) 1463 719219 www.wildernesscottages.co.uk

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ilderness Cottages offers a selection of quality self-catering properties throughout Scotland, ranging from those with rustic appeal to others boasting five-star luxury. There are plenty of options, whether you want to stay in the countryside or by the seashore.

Popular areas include the Loch Ness region, the Isle of Skye and the West Coast. Cottages range in size from small and cosy – ideal for couples on honeymoon and romantic holidays – to larger holiday cottages that sleep between six and 10 people. Short breaks are available and pets are welcome.

See the 2019 brochure online or order one by phone.

New Lanark World Heritage Site New Lanark Mills, Lanark ML11 9DB T: +44 (0) 1555 661345 www.newlanark.org

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ew Lanark World Heritage Site is a unique 18th century mill village sitting alongside the picturesque River Clyde less than one hour from Glasgow and Edinburgh. Visitors can see recreated millworkers’ houses, historic working machinery and the nearby ‘Falls of Clyde’ waterfalls. There’s a Mill Shop selling locally made textiles, welcoming Mill Café and the New Lanark Mill Hotel.

OPEN: Year-round, April-October, 10am-5pm. November-March, 10am-4pm.

ADMISSION: Adult £13.95, child £9.95, concession £11.50, family tickets from £32.95.

Chauffeur Tour Scotland

Cycle Scotland & Outlander Tours

Moatyett Farm, Lanark ML11 9PY T: +44 (0)141 616 0010 www.chauffeurtourscotland.co.uk

29 Blackfriars St, Edinburgh, EH1 1NB Scotland T: +44 (0) 131 556 5560 / +44 (0) 7796886899 E: cyclescotland.co.uk@gmail.com www.cyclescotland.co.uk

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hauffeur Tour Scotland have provided luxury tours for 15 years and are dedicated to delivering a unique experience of Scotland. From a one-day sightseeing tour to a two-week vacation, every tour is designed to suit your individual requirements. Our driver/guides are experienced and friendly and will help and advise you throughout, reinforced by a dedicated administration team.

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espoke sightseeing tours of Edinburgh, Glasgow, the Scottish Highlands and Islands by bicycle, e-bike and private driver guide. Fully supported and self-led tours travelling along quiet, scenic back roads. We visit many Outlander filming locations.

OUTLANDER, HIGHLANDER & HARRY POTTER TOURS. Travel with a private driver-guide to visit famous historic and movie locations around Scotland. See Outlander and Harry Potter locations in their splendid reality. Stay in historic inns and villages used by the production companies.

Small group and private tours for up to eight people. Optional cycling and e-bike excursions available each day. Tours from two to seven days, tailored to your own personal requirements and interests.

For a key to symbols please see page 147

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BRITAIN'S ISLANDS

Isle of Man Railways

Sausmarez Manor Guernsey

T: +44 (0) 1624 662525 www.rail.im

Sausmarez Manor, St. Martin, Guernsey GY4 6SG www.sausmarezmanor.co.uk

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ometimes the best discoveries are right under your nose. Lying at the heart of the British Isles, the Isle of Man is both familiar and a world apart.

Timelessly beautiful, with a character and spirit all of its own. Whatever you want from your days out – heritage, local produce, adventure, nature, relaxation or fun with your family – you will find it here in the Isle of Man. Thanks to our unique Victorian tramways, railways and comprehensive bus service, it couldn’t be easier to get around.

isit Guernsey in the Channel Islands and go on a tour of Sausmarez Manor, the house built at the bequest of the first governor of New York. Enjoy the Historic House Tour, the Ghost tour and the Authentic Literary and Potato Peel Pie SocietyTour.

Practise your golf swing on the pitch and putt course, or visit the arts and crafts gallery shop and the last coppersmith in the Channel Islands.

There’s also a wild subtropical garden, stunning sculptures for sale from around the world, and a 4-star tearoom to enjoy a drink in.

Prepco Island Vacations and Tours 3687 Dauphin Drive, Canton OH 44721 T: (001) 330 284 4709 (Est) (GMT-5) E: info@prepcotravel.com www.prepcotravel.com

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repco Travel – for island vacations around the world – has gone global.

You will know us for our one price custom-built vacation packages and tours to the British Isles including The Channel Isles, The Isles of Scilly, Isle of Man and Isle of White plus many more.

AND NOW we offer the same professional service for islands around the world in Oceans such as the Pacific, Atlantic, Caribbean, the Indian Ocean and the Mediterranean. Islands like The Bahamas, The Seychelles, the Canary Islands, Guam, Saipan, Samoa, Fiji, plus hundreds more. Visit our website and choose your island. If your favourite island is not listed, just let us know, we will get you there, on a cruise or flight.

At no cost to you, Prepco Travel will provide you with as many vacation proposals as you need until your favourite island is chosen.

Year-round vacations to give you sun and warmth. No matter where you live on this planet, we have contacts around the globe that will help us plan your dream vacation.

Just email us or send a message through our website.

Isles of Scilly, England

Channel Isles. England www.britain-magazine.com

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Perth is a hub for culture and arts. Nestled on the banks of the River Tay, it boasts a wealth of history, culture and entertainment.

Why not start your visit by popping in to one of our many pavement café’s around St John’s Place, and take in the great views of the historic 15th century St John’s Kirk. If Perth’s medieval history appeals, follow the route of the old city walls along Canal Street, Methven Street and Mill Street.

Take the time to check out Perth Museum and Art Gallery: approaching its 200th birthday it is one of the oldest museums in the UK. There is something of interest for everyone, with permanent exhibitions displaying the artistic, social, and natural history of the district.

Keep up the culture fix with a visit to the Fergusson Gallery, which celebrates the life and work of JD Fergusson, the great pioneer of modern art; and his wife, Margaret Morris, inspired choreographer, artist, movement therapist and author.

With the publication of ‘Fair Maid of Perth’, by Sir Walter Scott, Perth was dubbed ‘The Fair City’. You can still visit the house featured in the novel, now transformed into a visitor and educational centre by The Royal Scottish Geographical Society. It features displays on geographical issues and the history of Perth.

Within the house you can see a substantial section of Medieval Wall, part of the Blackfriar’s Monastery where the Scottish King James I was killed in 1437.

For lunch, Perth offers no shortage of award-winning eateries. The city centre is renowned for its fantastic food and drink, offering a great range of cuisines. Or find all the ingredients for a fabulous picnic in the award-winning bakers and delicatessens that make Perth City Centre a foodie’s paradise.

Perth offers no shortage of awardwinning eateries Work off lunch by taking a leisurely stroll around the city’s two spacious public parks, the North and South Inch. The city is a consistent Beautiful Britain award winner, and you can follow various walks, and trails such as the River Tay Public Arts Trail. This features 22 different sculptures, which draw inspiration from the river and its wildlife; and the city’s history.

Balhousie Castle, on the North Inch, is home of the Black Watch Museum. Recently awarded 5 star status by the Scottish Tourist Board, it tells almost three centuries of history for this elite regiment. It also has a great café and gift shop.

Gardeners and botanists head to Branklyn Garden, overlooking the city, to see its outstanding collection of rhododendrons, alpines, herbaceous and peat-garden plants.

Branklyn holds national collections of various plants, including the striking and unusual vivid blue Himalayan poppy, Meconopsis.

Visitors can also take in the developing national collection of heathers. It is planned the garden will host 950 species of heather, forming an important and unique national collection.

Back in the city centre, a great selection of unique independent boutiques sit alongside well-known big-name stores to offer a little retail therapy. If shopping’s not your bag, Perth is also a dream location for lovers of the great outdoors: there are many great routes for cycling and walking. Or take in a round of golf at the King James VI Golf Club on the outskirts of Perth, (or relive the Ryder Cup spirit on the famous Gleneagles course).

You can also try your hand with a rod and reel, at the Willowgate Fisheries.

It comprises a 9-acre fly-only trout loch and four miles of Salmon fishing on the River Tay. You can also hire canoes and paddle boards from the Activity Centre, and take part in organised excursions on the river.

For alternative water sport, visit Perth Leisure Pool, one of Scotland’s most popular visitor attractions since it opened in 1988. This wonderful

PLAN YOUR VISIT

perthcity.co.uk

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Perth is also a dream location for lovers of the great outdoors venue boasts training water, leisure water, flumes, a gym, health suite and so much more.

As thoughts turn to dinner, look out for the restaurants that serve the great selection of home grown local produce. There are plenty to choose from!

After dinner entertainment ranges from fantastic theatre, events and concerts at either Perth Concert Hall or Perth Theatre, or check out a film at The Playhouse, Perth’s independent 7-screen cinema that also features an IMAX screen.

To end the day, Perth has loads of bustling pubs and slick bars, all in close proximity, with a number holding of the coveted Best Bar None award. With great live music on offer to boot, there is definitely something for everyone.

@PerthCityCentre /perthcitycentre

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@perthcitycentre

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@perthcitycentre @perthcitycentre