Mauritius: Daisy Shields Sees Shooting Stars in the Indian Ocean.

'Tell me, what is it you plan to do with your one wild and precious life?’ This gem by American poet Mary Oliver was in my mind when I arrived in Mauritius with my baby, as the lush greenery seems to make everything flourish. I’ll always cherish my diary entry on his first night of happily wanting his own cot. ‘He’s growing out here,’ I wrote, ‘into a little boy’.

I thought it best to wait until arriving in paradise before phoning the doting grandparents to casually mention that we’d brought their nine month-old grandson on a 12-hour flight to the Indian Ocean. In fact no one needed to worry: The Residence in Belle Mare is a familyfriendly gem, while Mauritius is among the best long-haul destinations for young families. Just an hour from the airport, the hotel can organise transfers, and with a few naps and breastfeeding on take-off and landing, we survived the long flight unscathed. In many ways it’s the ideal time; under-twos save on the cost of the flight and British Airways provide a bassinet to (fingers crossed!) sleep in.

The family managed the 12-hour flight relatively unscathed

A colourful melting pot of cultures and languages, temples, mosques and churches, with English and French widely spoken and no malaria, yellow fever or Zika concerns, it’s the wealthiest African country with just a four-hour time difference, pristine white beaches, shallow waters and abundant wildlife. Staying at The Residence is like stepping into the pages of a Somerset Maugham novel: slatted shutters, softly whirring ceiling fans and cool cream interiors. The service is exceptionally child-friendly without being ‘loud.’ Relatively small at 135 rooms with a daily kids’ club for treasure hunts and picnics, the gentle Mauritian attitude to children was on display here. Rakesh decked our dinner table with flowers and sweet spices, Kunal turned messy blankets into fan-shaped hearts and left poems on our pillows, Amanda brought treats with Xander’s watermelon juice and Riccardo taught him high-fives at the boathouse.

Daisy got to grips with the local wildlife

In summer (October to May) rays are fierce, but in his stripy hat and sunblock Xander enjoyed poolside mornings under the frangipane tree and my husband spent afternoons sailing, while we watched the monkeys play in guava trees and napped in the shade of the Badamier.

Airy, light and decked out in neutral tones, The Residence offers a soothing stay

Each night we stepped out with the baby carrier to see the shooting stars Mauritius is famous for, as local families hunted sand crabs, filling buckets by torchlight. One night we came across a fire display and the pounding drums of traditional Sega music, symbol of Creole culture and a rite of passage. On another night, we witnessed a vivid blood-red tiger moon, streaked with clouds.

Later, back on our terrace, as strains of Cole Porter drifted through the fragrant air, Xander slept soundly in his cot next door, exhausted by it all.