164 PAGES PACKED WITH HUNDREDS OF MUST-VISIT DESTINATIONS AND INSPIRING IDEAS
WIN YOUR NEXT TRIP CAPITAL SIGHTS
From Big Ben to Tower Bridge
THETheWEST END shows set to storm theatreland this year
THE VIP LIST
Exclusive hotels, restaurants and galleries
ROYAL INVITE Go behind the scenes at Buckingham Palace and Hampton Court
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101 BEST
ATTRACTIONS Your itinerary starts here
Estate Secrets
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42 Editor's letter With no fewer than seven royal palaces and world-famous sights such as Big Ben, the Tower of London and Tower Bridge, London has no shortage of historic places to visit, and with an exciting contemporary scene to boot, there are simply thousands of attractions to choose from. Over the next 164 pages we will guide you through the best the capital has to offer, from behind-the-scenes tours at the Houses of Parliament to exclusive hotels and the most thrilling plays on the London stage, ensuring your next trip is your most memorable yet.
Features
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06 LAW AND ORDER
We go behind the scenes at the Palace of Westminster to find out how you too can walk the corridors of power
17 ROYAL PECULIAR
Westminster Abbey is the resting place of poets and monarchs as well as the setting for many royal occasions
24 ROYAL LONDON Sally Coffey, Editor
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We take a look at some of the many exciting events taking place across London’s royal palaces this year
35 LONDON’S BURNING
The Great Fire ripped through the streets of the capital 350 years ago, changing the face of the city for ever LONDON | 2016 GUIDE
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Contents
Features
www.britain-magazine.com BRITAIN is the official magazine of VisitBritain, the national tourism agency. BRITAIN is published by The Chelsea Magazine Company Ltd, Jubilee House, 2 Jubilee Place, London SW3 3TQ Tel: 020 7349 3700 Fax: 020 7901 3701 Email: info@britain-magazine.com
42 ALL THE TIME IN THE WORLD
We visit the birthplace of some distinguished Tudors in the Royal Borough of Greenwich
49 CAPITAL VIEWS
The top spots for glorious views of the city’s stunning skyline, from skyscrapers to famous monuments
Editor Sally Coffey Art Editor Clare White Deputy Editor Nicola Rayner Sub Editors Tessa Carey & Sally Hales
56 THE DEEP SOUTH
The Southbank is still the hotspot for those in search of the city’s cultural highlights
64 WIN A GREAT BRITISH HOLIDAY
Your chance to win a luxury all-expenses-paid visit to Britain with our fantastic competition
67 101 DAYS OUT
Publisher Caroline Scott Digital Product Manager Oliver Morley-Norris Advertisement Manager Natasha Syed Senior Sales Executive Terri Weyers Sales Executive Elizabeth Dack Sales Executive James Davis Managing Director Paul Dobson Deputy Managing Director Steve Ross Commercial Director Vicki Gavin Subscriptions Manager William Delmont
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Printed in England by William Gibbons, Willenhall, West Midlands Production All Points Media
We bring you the best London has to offer, wherever your interests lie
82 GETTING AROUND
The lowdown on how best to navigate the city by bus, train, Tube, taxi, or on foot
85 DIARY NOTES
A look at the best events and exhibitions taking place across the capital in 2016
88 VIP TREATMENT
For an unforgettable stay, book a room in one of London’s most exclusive hotels
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97 ARE YOU BEING SERVED?
Buy classic gifts for loved ones or spoil yourself at London’s most historic and luxurious shopping parades
106 THE WEST END
London has one of the best theatre scenes of anywhere in the world. We check out theatreland’s highlights
116 MUSEUMS AND GALLERIES
The most exciting exhibitions and events from the city’s world-leading culture houses
124 QUIET LONDON
Find those precious tranquil spots within the bustling city where you can relax and unwind
128 STEP INSIDE
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London is full of historic alleys and winding lanes, we discover how best to explore it on foot
132 THE CHECKLIST
Subscriptions and back issues UK/Rest of World: BRITAIN, Subscriptions Department, 800 Guillat Avenue, Kent Science Park, Sittingbourne, Kent, ME9 8GU Tel: 01795 419839 Email: Britain@servicehelpline.co.uk http://britain.subscribeonline.co.uk North America: USA: Britain, PO Box 37518, Boone, IA 50037-0518 Tel: 888-321-6378 (toll free) Email: BTNcustserv@cdsfulfillment.com http://britsubs.com/britain Canada: BRITAIN, 1415 Janette Avenue, Windsor, Ontario N8X 1Z1, Canada Tel: 888-321-6378 (toll free) Email: BTNcustserv@cdsfulfillment.com Australia and New Zealand: BRITAIN, Locked Bag 1239, North Melbourne, VIC 3051, Australia. Tel: 02 8877 0373 Email: britain@data.com.au News distribution USA and Canada: CMG, LLC/155 Village Blvd/3rd Floor/ Princeton, NJ 08540 USA UK and Rest of World: Seymour International Ltd. 2 East Poultry Ave, London EC1A 9PT Tel: 020 7429 4000 Fax: 020 7429 4001 Email: info@seymour.co.uk BRITAIN (ISSN 0019-3143) (USPS 004-335) is published bimonthly by The Chelsea Magazine Company, Jubilee House, 2 Jubilee Place, London SW3 3TQ , UK Distributed in the US by Circulation Specialists, LLC, 2 Corporate Drive, Suite 945, Shelton, CT 06484 Periodical postage paid at Shelton, CT and additional mailing offices POSTMASTER: Send address changes to BRITAIN, PO Box 37518, Boone, IA 50037-0518 Publications Mail Agreement Number 41599077, 1415 Janette Ave, Windsor, ON N8X 1Z1. Canadian GST Registered Number 834045627 RT0001 © The Chelsea Magazine Company Ltd 2016. All rights reserved. Text and pictures are copyright restricted and must not be reproduced without permission of the publishers The information contained in the London 2016 Guide has been published in good faith and every effort has been made to ensure its accuracy. However, where appropriate, you are strongly advised to check prices, opening times, dates, etc, before making final arrangements. All liability for loss, disappointment, negligence or damage caused by reliance on the information contained within this publication is hereby excluded. The opinions expressed by contributors to the London 2016 Guide are not necessarily those of the publisher.
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Discover Kensington Palace, London’s royal secret tucked away next to Hyde Park. Explore stunning gardens, unearth childhood memories of Queen Victoria and listen to all manner of scandal and gossip about the captivating people that once lived here. High Street Kensington
Law
AND ORDER
We go behind the scenes at the Palace of Westminster and reveal how you too can get inside the home of democracy WORDS SALLY COFFEY
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Westminster Hall, the Cloisters and Chapter House of St Stephen’s. Westminster Hall was the scene of numerous significant trials, including those of William Wallace, Guy Fawkes and King Charles I – all of whom were subsequently sentenced to death for high treason. This wasn’t the first fire to befall the palace, either; a previous one in 1512 gutted the private chambers of the Palace of Westminster. Until this time it had been used as a royal palace since its creation for Edward the Confessor in the 11th century. Following the initial fire, however, King Henry VIII decided to move his residence to Whitehall Palace, then known as York Place. Charles Barry’s recreation was resplendent and is a wonderful example of Victorian exuberance. Incorporating the surviving parts of the old palace, he was encouraged to change the layout and though his ambitious project took a little longer than expected – over 30 years as opposed to the six years he anticipated, he received a knighthood for his efforts. But while many tourists and residents admire Barry’s work from the outside, far too few realise just how easy it is to go inside and walk the corridors of power. David Natzler, the Clerk of the House of Commons and the Head of the House of Commons Services, likes to think that all this is changing. “It’s a major visitor attraction,” he says, “and we’re proud of that. It’s easier to visit than you think; you may not even have to queue for long and the later
Previous page: Inside The House of Lords where debates are open to the public on most days when Parliament is sitting Above: Carey Mulligan and Anne-Marie Duff film Suffragette at the Palace of Westminster. Facing page: Thames view of the Houses of Parliament
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PHOTOS: © ROBERTHARDING/PICTURESOFLONDON/ALAMY/UK PARLIAMENT/STEFFAN HILL
T
he recent film, Suffragette, starring Carey Mulligan, with a star turn by Meryl Streep, was the first movie to be recorded in the Houses of Parliament for many years and it was vital to the integrity of the story that this location was used. It is here, in the halls of Westminster, that Britain’s laws have been made and debated for centuries and the iconic Gothic building – rebuilt by Sir Charles Barry following a fire in 1834 – has become a symbol of democracy across the world. It was right then, that when the suffragettes fought for the right of women to be part of the law-making process in the early 20th century that it was here that they brought their ‘deeds not words’ battle. The fire of 1834 was caused by the burning of two cartloads of wooden tally sticks (old memory-aid devices used in government accounting) that were deemed no longer useful. The Clerk of Works decided that the sensible approach would be to dispose of them in two stoves in the basement of the House of Lords. Sadly it didn’t turn out to be the clerk’s best idea; both Houses of Parliament were destroyed in the blaze that tore through the buildings after the premises were locked up for the night. The scene was depicted to dramatic effect in The Burning of the Houses of Lords and Commons, two oil paintings by artist JMW Turner, who witnessed the fire from the south bank of the River Thames. The only parts of the Palace of Westminster to survive the fire were Jewel Tower, the Undercroft Chapel,
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The Houses of Parliament
The Burning of the House of Lords and Commons, by artist JMW Turner, painted after he witnessed the fire in 1834 Right: This painting by John Gilbert depicts King Charles I leaving Westminster Hall in 1649 after being found guilty of high treason
PHOTOS: © ARTEPICS/ALAMY/MARY EVANS
in the day you come the less chance there will be any queue at all.” Natzler is the 50th Clerk of the House and his principal job is to make sure everything around the chamber of the House of Commons runs effectively. Natzler is also ultimately responsible for the buildings of the Palace of Westminster, which Parliament is licensed to occupy by the monarch, a job that causes “constant anxiety” regarding the possibility of fire and floods. However, anxiety aside, it is a role of which he is proud: “Our tours are not just about the building – a wonderful mid 19th-century building filled with paintings and statues – they are a great way of learning about parliamentary democracy and the public love it.” Sitting in Natzler’s office in one of the corridors behind the scenes, I feel like I am privy to a secret world – one that has operated in much the same way for centuries. Since 1849 all parliamentary acts have been printed on vellum, prior to this they were handwritten, and records, which are kept in the Victoria Tower, date back to 1497. Leafing through the original act regarding the use of vellum on Natzler’s desk is a humbling experience. The Houses of Parliament is renowned for being steeped in tradition, many practices dating back centuries are still upheld today, such as the well-worn nod on entrance into the chamber – a gesture of respect that shows you remember you’ve come into the chamber. The end of one tradition was welcome though and that
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DID YOU KNOW? Emily Wilding Davidson, the suffragette who was killed at the Epsom Derby in 1913, hid herself in a cupboard in the crypt beneath Westminster Hall on Census night 1911 so she could put down her address as Westminster Hall, giving weight to her argument that she, like all women, should be given the vote.
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PHOTOS: © ROBERTHARDING/ALAMY
The Houses of Parliament
was the use of the rather unwelcoming term ‘strangers’, which applied to anyone who wasn’t a member. As a consequence the name of the Strangers’ Gallery was changed, though there is still a Strangers’ Bar on site. Thankfully today the Houses of Parliament is much more welcoming to visitors, who can choose between a self-guided audio tour or a guided tour. The guided tours, which start in Westminster Hall – the oldest building in the Parliamentary estate and the location of the dramatic trial of King Charles I who was condemned to death while still King – take you through some of the most historically significant rooms in Britain. From Westminster Hall the tours take you through St Stephen’s Hall, the original site of the Houses of Commons – this was rebuilt to the same dimensions of the former St Stephen’s Chapel following the fire of 1834. It was here that King Charles I stormed in to arrest the five MPs who had rebelled against him, one of the catalysts to the English Civil War, only to find they had already fled, uttering the famous line: “All the birds have flown.” It was in this location too, some years later, that the abolition of slavery was debated. From here you’ll be taken to the far western corner of the palace to the Norman Porch – so called as the original intention was to line it with statues of the Norman kings who once lived here. This is where HM The Queen ascends the Royal Staircase every year on the State www.britain-magazine.com
Facing page: The Throne, used by HM The Queen on the State Opening of Parliament, in the House of Lords Above: The Central Lobby where MPs can meet local constituents Right: The Prince's Chamber, which features people and events from the Tudor period
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Opening of Parliament. From here you’ll follow Her Majesty’s route first into the Robing Room, before going through the Royal Gallery to the Prince’s Chamber and then the House of Lords. The Prince’s Chamber is a small anteroom before the House of Lords where members meet to discuss the business of the chamber. Its walls are adorned with Tudor and Stuart portraits – note how Catherine of Aragon is placed before King Henry VIII as she is positioned next to her first husband, Henry’s brother Arthur. A lot of the detailing inside the Houses of Parliament is by English architect Augustus Pugin, including the opulent throne and canopy that the Queen sits in at the House of Lords on the State Opening of Parliament, both of which are made of 23.5 carat gold. The Queen is not allowed to go any further than here, which is why she has to send messages via the House of Lords’ official known as the Black Rod. When the Black Rod is sent by Her Majesty down the corridor to summon the Commons the doors of the chamber are shut in his face, a practice dating from the Civil War that symbolises the independence of the Commons from the monarchy. Perhaps the most moving part of the tours, however, is entering the House of Commons chamber where you can stand on the very spot that the Prime Minister is positioned every Wednesday as he answers Prime Minister’s Questions. It’s here that you are reminded that for all its heritage, this building represents a living, breathing democratic system, it is, as David Natzler puts it, a “cathedral of parliamentary democracy.”
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Above: The House of Commons, with MPs debating the issues of the day. The gallery is open to the public on most days of the week
PLAN YOUR VISIT TOURS Contrary to popular belief it is not difficult to access the Houses of Parliament, which welcomes one million visitors a year. Audio and guided tours are available every Saturday and on most weekdays during Parliamentary recesses, including Summer, Conference, Christmas and Easter. Audio tours cost £18 per adult until 31 March 2016 (prices will increase to £18.50 thereafter) and guided tours cost £25, rising to £25.50 from 1 April 2016. One child goes free for every paying adult – there are discounts for concessions and group tours. Book at www.parliament.uk/visiting, call (+44) (0)20 7219 4114 or visit the ticket office at the front of Portcullis House. Private tours are available in the early morning. AFTERNOON TEA For an additional £29 you can enjoy afternoon tea at the end of your tour in an elegant room with glorious riverside views. CONTACT YOUR MP UK residents can request a free members’ tour through their local MP or House of Lords member, often booked six months in advance at: www.parliament.uk/visiting WATCH A DEBATE Both UK residents and overseas visitors can watch debates for free in both houses by visiting the public galleries when Parliament is sitting (Mondays-Thursdays and some Fridays). Queue outside the Cromwell Green entrance but be warned: the wait may be an hour or more.
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Peculiar
ROYAL Aside from coronations and regal weddings, Westminster Abbey is best known as the final resting place of some of our most prominent figures
PHOTO: Š ISTOCK
WORDS SALLY COFFEY
PHOTOS: © MARY EVANS PICTURE LIBRARY/ALAMY/HEMIS/19TH ERA/VISITBRITAIN/BRITAIN ON VIEW
T
he remarkable Gothic structure of Westminster Abbey, just a stone’s throw from the Palace of Westminster – or the Houses of Parliament, by which name it is better known – is like a huge temple to one of our most pious Anglo-Saxon kings, Edward the Confessor, whose actual shrine lies in the middle of the church. Over the centuries it has become famous as a burial place of enormous prestige, with 17 monarchs buried here, alongside prime ministers, scientists, writers and other important figures throughout British history – in total 3,300 people are buried or commemorated here. Many people don’t realise that the building that stands near the Thames today is actually the second Westminster Abbey: the first was built by Edward the Confessor in honour of St Peter the Apostle in 1065 and the second started by King Henry III as a homage to Edward, the saintly king he so revered. A Benedictine monastery had been on the site on which Edward the Confessor chose to build the original Abbey, for around 100 years, and after the church was consecrated the monks remained for many years to come – hence the medieval wall separating the choir from the nave, designed to protect the monks’ modesty. The church became known as ‘west minster’ to distinguish it from St Paul’s Cathedral (the east minster). On Edward’s instruction the Abbey was completed to the Norman style of architecture of the day, but unfortunately for him, he was too ill to attend the consecration and he died a few days later, with his body being entombed in front of the High Altar. Although Edward the Confessor died in January 1066, he wasn’t canonised (made a saint) until 1161; his body was then moved into a shrine in 1163. Today it lies behind the High Altar in St Edward’s Chapel. When King Henry III, another pious monarch who held Edward the Confessor up as a hero, came to the throne, he decided to create a much more ornate church, which he believed would be a fitting tribute to the saintly king near whom he wished to be buried. Work began in 1245, to create one of the most important Gothic buildings in the country, with the medieval shrine of an Anglo-Saxon saint still at its heart and a place worthy of hosting the coronations of the nation’s kings and queens. Henry’s workers began knocking down the original building, starting at the eastern end and rebuilding as they
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went, but when Henry ran out of money for his ambitious project, work stopped and so the Abbey remained in two architectural styles for a century. One of the things that strikes you almost as soon as you step through the doors on the church’s northern side is the beautiful Gothic nave, which at over 100ft is the highest in England, although only a small section had been completed by the time Henry III died. At the west end of the church you can see the Coronation Chair, which is now protected behind glass, whereas once members of the public were able to sit in it – hence the graffiti from schoolchildren that you can just about make out. To look at the very chair that King Edward I had made to enclose the Stone of Scone, which he had brought back from Scotland as part of his attempt to gain power there, is a very powerful thing. In fact the Stone of Scone is now firmly back in Scottish hands but since Edward every English and British monarch has sat in this chair to be crowned. At this end of the church you’ll also find a memorial to Sir Winston Churchill who declined the offer to be buried here, opting instead for a graveyard near his much loved Blenheim Palace in Oxfordshire. And finally, here you will find the well-known memorial to the Unknown Warrior – a soldier from the First World War who has come to represent all the lost soldiers during the Great War – a tribute that was unveiled by King George V on Armistice Day in 1920 – the same day he unveiled the nearby Cenotaph, at Whitehall, a symbolic empty tomb. We were led round on our tour by a verger – a layperson who assists in religious ceremonies and who takes their name from the Latin for a stick or rod – so called as they must walk in front of the priests and bishops at all times in the church and clear the way for them with their ceremonial rod, a virge. It was Queen Elizabeth I who gave the Abbey a charter in 1560, making it Anglican and a ‘Royal Peculiar,' like St George’s Chapel in Windsor, so that it was effectively answerable to the Royal Family, not the church. Every coronation since 1066 has been held in the abbey – it was here that William the Conqueror was crowned King of England on Christmas Day 1066, following his bloody defeat of King Harold at the Battle of Hastings (indeed it’s believed that he may have been crowned here too). And so began a long tradition of holding
Westminster Abbey
This page, clockwise from left: The Lady Chapel, built by King Henry VII, has an ornate carved stone vaulted roof; an etching of the Coronation Chair that King Edward I had made to hold the Stone of Scone, which was returned to Scotland in\1996; Queen Elizabeth I’s\tomb in the Lady Chapel www.britain-magazine.com
Facing page: Edward the Confessor, who built the original Westminster Abbey in 1065
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PHOTOS: © WORLD HISTORY ARCHIVE/ALAMY/HISTORICAL IMAGE COLLECTION BY BILDAGENTUR-ONLINE/ALAN KING ENGRAVING
Westminster Abbey
Every coronation since 1066 has been held in Westminster Abbey. It was here that William the Conqueror was crowned King of England on Christmas Day 1066 This page, left to right: Woodcut, circa 1870, of the tomb of Edward the Confessor; an engraving in 1830 of Poets’ Corner Facing page: Coronation of Queen Victoria in Westminster Abbey, 28 June 1838
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coronations in Westminster Abbey, the most recent of which was Queen Elizabeth II’s on 2 June 1953 when over 8,000 people attended. In front of the high altar is a large space beneath the ‘crossing’, where the transept meets the nave, partly due to the fact that in the 11th and 12th centuries there wasn’t much by way of identifying people – so all the high lords had to see the new monarch to ensure the right person was being crowned – it also created room for the theatrics. Behind the altar you’ll find St Edward’s Chapel with the shrine built up around the tomb in which he lies. Although public tours won’t take you back here any longer, a private tour with a verger will and here you will find King Edward I (Longshanks), as well as King Henry III, Eleanor of Castile, King Henry V, King Edward III, Philippa of Hainault and her grandson King Richard II. It is thought
that other medieval kings and queens requested that they be buried near Edward the Confessor in the hope that some of his goodness would rub off on them and they might be received into Heaven. More recently this chapel was used in the Royal Wedding of 2011 between the Duke and Duchess of Cambridge who came here to sign their marriage certificate away from the public glare – the only part of their wedding that wasn’t filmed. Another addition to the church, this time by King Henry VII, the first Tudor king, whose marriage to Elizabeth of York brought to an end the War of the Roses, was the beautiful Lady Chapel, in the eastern end of the Abbey, also known as the Henry VII Chapel. Built between 1503 and 1519, the perpendicular architecture here is in total contrast to the rest of the LONDON | 2016 GUIDE
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KINGS, QUEENS, STATESMEN, SOLDIERS, POETS, PRIESTS, HEROES & VILLAINS
WESTMINSTER ABBEY A MUST-SEE LIVING PAGEANT OF BRITISH HISTORY
Book now at westminster-abbey.org
Westminster Abbey
PHOTOS: © ANGELO HORNAK/ALAMY/NEIL MCALLISTER
To book a tour with a verger go to www.britainmagazine.com/ westminsterabbey
Abbey and it has been called “one of the most perfect buildings ever erected in England,” thanks in no small part to the huge sums of money Henry lavished on it. It is the delicately carved stone vaulted roof, which was restored in 1995, that is its crowning glory. Beneath this lies the tomb of Henry VII and Elizabeth of York as well as that of their grandson King Edward VI, Henry VIII’s son, who died aged just 15. One of the few omissions of the Tudor dynasty at Westminster Abbey is Henry VIII himself who wanted to be buried with Edward’s mother, Jane Seymour, and so lies in Windsor. On the north side of the chapel you will find the tomb of Henry’s two daughters, Queen Elizabeth I and her half sister Queen Mary I (Bloody Mary), although there is only an effigy of Elizabeth for political and religious reasons, the plaque beneath them hopes to resolve their differences. It reads: “Partners in throne and grave, here we sleep, Elizabeth and Mary, sisters, in hope of the Resurrection.” Another plaque within the Lady Chapel itself reads simply: “The burial place of Oliver Cromwell 1658-1661.” www.britain-magazine.com
After 1661 Cromwell’s body was dug up, hung and quartered and his head then left on a spike outside Parliament as a warning to other defectors. One of the Abbey’s most famous areas is Poets’ Corner, where Geoffrey Chaucer was the first writer to be buried, although he was later joined by Robert Browning, Alfred Tennyson and Charles Dickens, among others. Interestingly, only 12 people attended Dickens’ funeral as he requested a private service, but millions of people have since been to visit his grave. There are also memorials to many other great British writers – Shakespeare, Jane Austen and the Brontë sisters, to name but a few, who all chose to be buried elsewhere. Standing in the Abbey, surrounded by the history of the building and the famous figures laid to rest here, it is hard not to imagine the ghosts of our medieval kings and queens coming to life and mingling with some of our literary greats.
Clockwise from top left: Shakespeare's memorial in Poets’ Corner; at the west end of the nave is the grave of the Unknown Warrior, whose body was brought from France to be buried here in 1920; the tomb of King Henry VII and Elizabeth of York in the Lady Chapel
For more on the history of some of our most iconic buildings go to www.britain-magazine.com LONDON | 2016 GUIDE
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Royal London
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Royal London
Tales FROM
THE TUDOR COURT
Lucy Worsley, joint chief curator at Hampton Court Palace, reveals some of the hidden histories of King Henry VIII’s favourite home, located on the outskirts of the capital WORDS SALLY COFFEY
Historian, curator and TV presenter Lucy Worsley www.britain-magazine.com
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Royal London
Clockwise, from above: Wolsey’s Closet is like a Tudor jewel casket; the kitchens at Hampton Court; Mark Rylance as Thomas Cromwell in TV’s Wolf Hall
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A
nyone who watched TV’s Wolf Hall, which serialised novelist Hilary Mantel’s two historical fiction novels set in Tudor England – the book from which it takes its name and Bring up the Bodies, both of which won the Man Booker Prize – will know that Hampton Court Palace was at the centre of many of this period’s most momentous events. Although Wolf Hall, which depicted the rise of Thomas Cromwell from son of a blacksmith to King Henry VIII’s right-hand man, was filmed across some magnificent Tudor locations, the scenes set in Hampton Court were actually filmed elsewhere. Real or not, the programme reaffirms the significance of Hampton Court in Tudor times: it was at Hampton Court that Henry married the last of his six wives, Catherine Parr; his long-awaited son Edward was born here to Jane Seymour (who died less than two weeks later in the same room) and it was also the location from which he launched the English Reformation – effectively saying to the Roman Catholic Church: “If you won’t let me marry Anne Boleyn I’ll set up the Church of England.” However, it wasn’t Henry who built this pleasure palace on the banks of the River Thames, but one of his ministers, Cardinal Thomas Wolsey, the Archbishop of York, who enjoyed an elevated position as Henry’s chief advisor for
many years before falling dramatically from favour when his sway with the Pope proved insufficient as regards Henry’s proposed marriage to Anne Boleyn. I’m sitting in a former grace-and-favour apartment within the palace with Lucy Worsley, Joint Chief Curator of Historic Royal Palaces, the independent charity that looks after Hampton Court. Few people – if any – understand the workings of Hampton Court Palace and life in a Tudor court as well as Lucy – she even lived here for a time when she first took on the role, freezing away in a room fitted with 17th-century windows through which the “wind would blow in and out”. Lucy tells me that Cardinal Wolsey was an ambitious man, “He was a sort of magnate of the Church and he saw himself as equivalent to the Renaissance princes of Europe – England was too small to hold him really so he wanted a grand country residence,” she says. And so in 1515 the building project began. “He built the whole of Base Court and what you can still see around Clock Court, then Henry VIII came along and just took it off him,” she says. By the time Henry took Hampton Court from him, Wolsey was already on the downward slide and the line he’d always used that, “I’m building this for you, Your Majesty, come and stay here whenever you want,” came www.britain-magazine.com
PHOTOS: © TONY MURRAY PHOTOGRAPHY/JAMES LINSELL-CLARK/SWNS/ HISTORIC ROYAL PALACES/NEWSTEAM.CO.UK/GILES KEYTE/BBC PICTURES
Royal London
back to bite him. In Wolf Hall Mark Rylance’s Cromwell is forced to watch on helplessly as his mentor is removed from the premises before being sent to the north of England, to York. Lucy says her favourite part of the building is a relic from Wolsey’s time. “The Wolsey Closet is a treat,” she says. “This funny little room is sort of hidden away in the heart of the palace. It’s got a Tudor ceiling and panelling and is just a snug little room that shows the Tudors were starting to want to spend time alone as opposed to living a very communal life, which medieval people did. “Stepping into the Closet is like stepping inside a little Tudor jewel casket as it’s so richly decorated,” she says. What was life like on a day-to-day basis in Hampton Court Palace? “If you were a top courtier then you had to take part in an elaborate piece of performance art that involved attending the king and standing in line and walking in procession,” Lucy says. “But if you were a lower servant then life involved a lot of cleaning and hard work. The reason the kitchens here are so massive is because they weren’t just cooking food; they were preparing it, almost from when the cow walked in and the bushel of grain arrived.” Some servants, Lucy tells me, were fortunate enough to have their own apartments but those that didn’t had to www.britain-magazine.com
Wolf Hall depicts both the rise of Cromwell and the significance of Hampton Court in Tudor times
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Royal London relieve themselves in the sounds-a-lot-nicer-than-it-was ‘Great House of Easement’: a big communal toilet. However, Lucy says that servants didn’t always make it to the amenities. “There was a big problem in the Tudor court of lower servants urinating in the passages and fireplaces,” she says. “Those who ran the household decided to make a chalk cross around the bottom of the walls; the idea was that people wouldn’t piddle on a religious symbol.” Food was of huge importance in Henry’s time, but while it’s true that the Twelve Days of Christmas involved feasting every day, the court would have fasted for a month beforehand so would have been more than ready for it. Lucy says: “People do have the wrong idea about how much Henry actually ate because if you look at the records for what was on his table, it says 13 dishes or 15 dishes, but that was just the way the food was served – it was like a buffet.” Despite his reputation, Henry was relatively trim up until 1536 when he fell off his horse, sustaining injuries he never fully recovered from. “That’s when he got fat and depressed and tyrannical,” says Lucy unsympathetically. The diet of Tudor courtiers included a lot of roast meat, which was considered high-status because, as Lucy points out, “you needed a deer park and loads of fuel, burning for a really long time, plus someone to turn the spit.” The Tudors loved roast meat so much that even today it survives in our language that if you eat meat on a Sunday you call it a ‘roast’ even though you’re not roasting it, you’re actually baking it. Conversely, if you were a Tudor peasant you would eat some soup or sludgy, vegetable-based food that you could cook over a low heat. One of the most striking rooms within the palace is the Great Hall, an ornate room that was designed to “overwhelm” the courtiers who had to pass through it to see Henry in his state apartments. Cromwell would most likely have walked through here, perhaps to present himself to Henry and ask cap in hand for some money for Wolsey. Later, it was in this very room that William Shakespeare performed in front of King James I in 1604. Although we can’t say for certain what play Shakespeare and his King’s Men troupe performed, it’s believed to have been A Midsummer Night’s Dream as records make mention of a character from that play, Robin Goodfellow.
Above: Stained glass windows in the Great Watching Chamber with images of heraldic influence. Right: The Great Hall
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J Hampton Court Palace had its own suffragette Indian princess. Princess Sophia Duleep Singh was the daughter of the last Maharaja of the Punjab, who surrendered his kingdoms to the British Empire. She lived in one of the grace-and-favour apartments at the palace for many years and was a known suffragette as well as a member of the Tax Resistance League. J King Charles I was kept prisoner by the Parliamentarians at Hampton Court and, rather excitingly, he escaped. He climbed out of a window and disappeared in a boat up the Thames, although his captors caught up with him and he was later executed at Banqueting House in Whitehall.
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DIDYOU YOUKNOW? KNOW? DID
Royal London
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Royal London
Today the Hall has hardly changed, Lucy says: “You walk into it and just think ‘oh I’m in the 16th century.’” Although the room in which King Henry VIII’s long-awaited male heir (later King Edward VI) was born no longer exists, we have a good idea from Ordinances for a Royal Birth, a Tudor rule book set out by Henry’s grandmother Margaret Beaufort ahead of his elder brother Arthur’s birth, how it would have been decorated. The ceilings and carpets would have been covered with tapestries and the windows blocked up, with just one small break for light – the Tudors believed that this would keep out airborne diseases. Edward was born on 12 October 1537 and in celebration hymns of thanksgiving were sung in churches across London. There were street festivals across the city with lashings of free food and wine before a huge christening was held in Hampton Court three days after his birth. This was actually later than the norm to allow dignitaries from across Europe the chance to attend. Sadly, less than two weeks after his celebrated birth, Edward’s mother, Jane Seymour, died. One theory for her death is that she may have died from the placenta not being properly removed. While the Tudor era may be the one that reigns in people’s imaginations, it wasn’t the only period of courtier life at the palace. The successive Stuart period saw King William III and his wife Queen Mary II completely overhaul the palace but
“The magnificent Great Hall has hardly changed – you walk into it and just think ‘oh I’m in the 16th century’” 30
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THE SHAKESPEARE OF GARDENING This year marks the 300th anniversary of the birth of one of Britain’s most influential landscape architects, Capability Brown. While Brown may be best remembered for transforming the landscapes of some of our most splendid stately homes, his more functional connection with Hampton Court Palace will be celebrated in 2016. Brown was appointed chief gardener at Hampton Court by King George III, and his legacy lives on in the Great Vine, planted in 1768 and now the longest in the world. Meanwhile, the East Front’s yew trees are a result of Brown’s decision to stop tending to the topiary to create a more naturalistic aspect, which didn’t endear him to the Board of Works, who reprimanded him. Nevertheless, a blue plaque to Brown can be found on Wilderness House, the palace estate where he lived, and watercolours depicting the gardens during his tenure will go on display in April. www.hrp.org.uk/hampton-court-palace
they both died before they really got the chance to enjoy it. So it fell to the Georgians – King George I and King George II – to make best use of the completed palace. However, when King George III came to the throne in 1760 he didn’t want to live here. Lucy says: “The story goes that he didn’t want to live here as he associated it too much with his grandfather George II who was very strict with him and used to beat him on the bottom if he made spelling mistakes.” Instead he chose to live at Buckingham Palace and Windsor Castle, bringing to an end the role of Hampton Court Palace as a royal residence. In 1838 Queen Victoria opened the palace to the public and it is now a must-see building on any Tudor obsessive’s (and Wolf Hall fan’s) tour of England.
For more on Britain's historic royal palaces and castles, and the people who lived in them visit www.britain-magazine.com www.britain-magazine.com
PHOTOS: © HISTORIC ROYAL PALACES
Above: The yew trees by the East Front of the palace are a legacy of Capability Brown's tenure as chief gardener
Inspiring Beautiful Free
Victoria and Albert Museum Enjoy the world’s leading museum of art and design Admission free vam.ac.uk
Photography James Medcraft
ROYAL INVITE
Here are some of the biggest events taking place across London’s royal palaces in the year ahead
Above: Queen Elizabeth II and the Duke of Edinburgh on their wedding day. Centre: Rubens’ ceiling in Banqueting House
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BUCKINGHAM PALACE
This year HM The Queen will celebrate her 90th birthday, an event that, of course, will call for plenty of pomp and ceremony (see page 85). At Her Majesty’s official London residence an exhibition, Fashioning a Reign: 90 Years of Style from The Queen’s Wardrobe, will run during the summer opening of Buckingham Palace before moving to Windsor Castle in September. The exhibition will chart significant events in the Queen’s life and the nation’s history through an unprecedented collection of clothes, jewellery and accessories designed for these occasions, from childhood to the present day. The exhibition will present the fashions of 10 decades from the 1920s to the 2010s, revealing the unique requirements of royal
couture, from ceremonial and military attire to ensembles worn at family celebrations. There will also be pieces from the young princess’s wardrobe, as well as from her wedding to the Duke of Edinburgh, her Coronation and outfits created for royal tours and state visits. Meanwhile, from 18 March to 9 October in the Queen’s Gallery at Buckingham Palace, there will be an exhibition showcasing the best Scottish art in the Royal Collection. From Caledonia to the Continent brings together more than 80 works collected by monarchs from King George III to Queen Victoria, including distinguished works by celebrated artists Allan Ramsay and Sir David Wilkie. www.royalcollection.org.uk www.britain-magazine.com
PHOTOS: PA ARCHIVE/PA IMAGES/LEE SANDERS/HISTORIC ROYAL PALACES/ LORD LINLEY/LADY SARAH CHATTO
Royal London
BANQUETING HOUSE
One of the lesser-know of the royal palaces, Banqueting House is the sole surviving complete building of the former Whitehall Palace, which became a royal residence when King Henry VIII moved his main London residence here from the Palace of Westminster in 1529. It was here that Henry VIII married two of his wives, Anne Boleyn in 1533 and Jane Seymour in 1536, and indeed where the king died in 1547. It is for the death of another king that the palace is best known, for it was here that King Charles I was taken to his death on the scaffold in 1649. As he walked to his death, Charles would have passed under the magnificent ceiling www.britain-magazine.com
painted by Sir Peter Paul Rubens, which he commissioned in 1629 to celebrate his father King James I. It’s a magnificent sight that still delights visitors. This summer a new immersive visitor experience entitled The Lost Palace will bring to life some of the incredible stories from the history of the palace, whose vast labyrinth of rooms was destroyed by fire more than 300 years ago. www.royalcollection.org.uk
KENSINGTON PALACE
The popular Fashion Rules exhibition will continue at this beautiful palace, birthplace of Queen Victoria, which has been a royal
residence during four centuries. This year there will be a shift in focus for the exhibition, which will present the ‘New Look’ glamour of Princess Margaret in the 1950s, the elegance of HM The Queen in the 1960s and the 1970s, and some of the tailored outfits of Diana, Princess of Wales from the early 1990s. Elsewhere in the palace you can step back in time to the glittering court of King George II and Queen Caroline in William Kent’s opulent King’s State Apartments. www.hrp.org.uk/kensington-palace Above: A gorgeous cream silk evening dress worn by Princess Margaret in 1951, which features in the Fashion Rules exhibition at Kensington Palace LONDON | 2016 GUIDE
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LONDONʼS Burning This year marks 350 years since the Great Fire of London tore through the capital – a disaster that changed the face of the city for ever WORDS NEIL JONES
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London’s burning
IMAGES: © WIKIPEDIA/ART KOWALSKY/ALAMY
W
hen, early on 2 September 1666, the famous diarist Samuel Pepys heard of a fire in the City of London that had already destroyed 300 houses, he hired a boat to view the scene from the Thames. To his horror he noted: “Everybody endeavouring to remove their goods, and flinging into the river or bringing them into lighters that lay off; poor people staying in their houses as long as till the very fire touched them, and then running into boats, or clambering from one pair of stairs... to another.” The dramatic conflagration wasn’t the fi rst – nor last – to strike the capital, but the Great Fire of London was one of the most devastating events in the city’s history. Raging from 1am on Sunday 2 September to dawn on Thursday 6 September, it resulted in four-fi fths of the city being destroyed, including 13,200 houses and 87 churches. Miraculously, there were only six officially recorded deaths, but the very hub of Britain’s trade, government and prosperity stood in ruin. The ideal place to piece together what happened is at the War, Plague and Fire gallery in the Museum of London, which features documents and artefacts such as melted pottery from a burnt-out shop. In the 17th century, London was a turbulent place: the Great Plague had decimated a third of its population in 1665, while
Above: The dome of St Paul's Cathedral is now an icon of London's skyline
frictions between Protestants and Catholics, and England’s recent wars with France and the Netherlands, made citizens nervous. In the event, it was a spark in Thomas Farriner’s bakery in Pudding Lane that kindled the disaster. It’s thought the baker’s oven was not fully extinguished and wood beside it caught fi re. While the baker and his family escaped, their maid perished. The fire could hardly have started in a more dangerous place, close to the river’s warehouses and shops packed
TIMELINE OF A CENTURY 1603 Accession of King James I (James VI of Scotland), the first Stuart monarch of England
1616 Death of William Shakespeare
1607 Jamestown, the first permanent English settlement in America, is established
1653 Oliver Cromwell becomes Lord Protector 1642-46 The First English Civil War
1603 1603
1653 1625 Accession of King Charles I
1605 The Gunpowder Plot
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1660 Parliament invites Charles II to return to England. He is restored to the throne
1611 Publication of Authorised Version of the King James Bible
1652-54 First Anglo-Dutch War
1649 Trial and execution of Charles I. The Commonwealth begins
1658 Death of Oliver Cromwell. His son Richard becomes Lord Protector
1660 Samuel Pepys begins his diary (to 1669)
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London’s burning
with combustibles such as coal, timber, oil and alcohol. It had been a long, dry summer and, with a strong easterly wind fanning the flames, the city’s mainly timber-framed buildings were easily lit, their overhanging jetties and the crowded nature of the narrow streets inviting fire to spread. Yet the Lord Mayor Sir Thomas Bludworth, called to the scene at 4am, dismissed the threat posed by the fire and returned to bed, saying: “A woman might piss it out.” Download the Museum of London’s Great Fire of London MP4 Walking Tour and you can set off to explore some of the key locations where events unfolded: from Pudding Lane and the Monument commemorating the fire, to the Guildhall that housed the Lord Mayor’s offices and St Paul’s Cathedral. There are remarkable eyewitness accounts and paintings too, and Pepys was in the thick of things. On his boat trip on the morning of 2 September he had been alarmed to see no one trying to dowse the fire and he hastened to Whitehall to warn the king. King Charles II immediately commanded houses to be pulled down to create firebreaks. When Pepys conveyed the order to Bludworth, the Lord Mayor had changed his tune. “To the king’s message he cried, like a fainting woman, ‘Lord, what can I do? I am spent: people will not obey me. I have been pulling down houses, but the fire overtakes us faster than we can do it.’”
1666 France declares war on England (concluded 1667) 1666 2-6 September – the Great Fire of London
Above: A pre-fire panorama of London in 1616 by Claes Van Visscher
With no organised fire brigade in London in 1666, people were reliant on buckets and ladders, fire hooks to pull down buildings, and hand-pumped machines to squirt water. The fire rampaged down Fish Street Hill, on to London Bridge, along the Thames and north of Thames Street, destroying warehouses, St Magnus the Martyr Church and Fishmongers’ Hall, the first of dozens of livery company halls to be ruined. Terrified by such large-scale calamity, people began to fear a French or Dutch attack, and armed mobs hunted for foreign or Catholic arsonists. Militia were called in to control the crowds. Over five days the conflagration spread across 436 acres, ripping through Lombard Street, Cornhill and the Royal Exchange, also Threadneedle Street, Baynard’s Castle, Cheapside, the Sessions House in the Old Bailey, Ludgate and Newgate gaols (from where prisoners escaped), Temple and Fleet Street. When the fire reached within 300 yards of the Tower of London, all available resources rushed to the scene. St Paul’s Cathedral, in wooden scaffolding
Samuel Pepys had been alarmed to see no one trying to dowse the fire and he hastened to Whitehall to warn the king
1685 Death of Charles and accession of King James II; 24 churches are completed (1685-1689)
1668 1,450 houses are built in London by year end. Halls for the Butchers', Cutlers' and Inn-holders' are completed 1671 Custom House, the Guildhall & Royal Exchange are rebuilt. Work begins on four new churches and the Monument
1677 The Monument is completed
1666 1665 The Great Plague
1681
1667 16 March – Samuel Pepys sees some cellars that are still smoking, six months after the Great Fire www.britain-magazine.com
1681 A plaque is set up on the site of the bakery where the fire began in Pudding Lane, blaming Catholics for starting it
1668 An Act of Parliament establishes new fire prevention regulations for the City of London 1675 Foundation stone for St Paul's Cathedral is laid. St Christopher le Stocks church is completed
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Free y r t n e Get beneath the surface of the City. Discover 2,000 years of London’s history.
Guildhall Galleries. Where London began.
Walk amid Roman ruins and see the art, treasures and curiosities gathered together over the centuries. Nearest tubes: Bank, Mansion House & Moorgate.
www.cityoflondon.gov.uk/guildhallgalleries
Download the Guildhall Galleries app
Visit the City Information Centre for more to see and do in the Square Mile, located between St Paul’s Cathedral and Millennium Bridge.
Great Fire of London
awaiting restoration, was not so lucky; its roof collapsed and thousands of books stored in the crypt fuelled the fire. There are tales of heroism: a seaman and a soldier climbed onto the roof of Middle Temple Hall to beat out flames. And tragedy: an 80-year-old watchmaker refused to leave his home in Shoe Lane and it fell on him. But mainly people fled to the fields outside the city; the court packed its bags; even Pepys, hearing the fire was approaching Barking Church near his home, buried his wine and Parmesan cheese in the garden for safekeeping and temporarily absented himself. During the fire, King Charles rode around the city distributing money to encourage fire-fighting efforts and he ordered supplies to be brought for the homeless thousands camped in the fields. His brother, James Duke of York (later King James II), took command of operations from the second day and set up posts manned by civilians and soldiers to tackle the fires. From the third day, gunpowder was used to demolish houses more quickly than pulling them down and by that
evening the wind had also dropped. The firefighters gradually gained control. Diarist John Evelyn records wandering through the eerie aftermath of the disaster, burning the soles of his shoes on smouldering ground and losing his way in the “dismal desert”. The next month an official day of fasting was held and £12,794 collected from across the country to provide aid to London’s newly destitute; many would move away. The hunt for a culprit who caused the Great Fire found a scapegoat in Frenchman Robert Hubert, who confessed and was hanged even though the jury believed him to be deluded. Alternatively, the quirky ‘Fat Boy’ statue at Pye Corner (Giltspur Street) claims the fire was retribution for the sin of gluttony. King and council concluded it resulted from “the hand of God upon us, a great wind, and the season so very dry.” Thomas Farriner, who had signed
Top: Ludgate in flames, with Old St Paul's Cathedral behind. Above: Christopher Wren. Below: St Vedast, reconstructed by Wren after the fire
Hubert’s confession, reopened his bakery; Thomas Bludworth similarly avoided official censure. Evelyn writes that plans to raise a “glorious Phoenix” from London’s ruins proliferated, many proposing a completely fresh, orderly layout to replace cramped medieval streets. Christopher Wren envisioned monumental avenues and thoroughfares radiating from piazzas. However, the economic and political necessity of getting London up and running as soon as possible saw speed and affordability win the day. A team of architects and surveyors set to work on reconstruction between 1667 and 1710, largely following the old street plan although some roads were widened. A tax on coal was levied to help fund public buildings and new regulations promoted improvements to houses, including the use of brick instead of wood. Pavements appeared for the first time and sewers were installed, leading one proud citizen to IMAGES: © MICHAEL NICHOLSON/CORBIS/WIKIPEDIA/VIEW PICTURES/ALAMY
Diarist John Evelyn records wandering through the eerie aftermath of the disaster
FIRE YOUR IMAGINATION J The War, Plague and Fire gallery at the Museum of London features a Great Fire of London model, video and artefacts, including objects excavated from a cellar two doors from the Pudding Lane bakery. www.museumoflondon.org.uk J The Great Fire of London MP4 Walking Tour explore sites affected by the conflagration on an absorbing 90-minute wander, including Pudding Lane and St Paul’s Cathedral. www.museumoflondon.org.uk/explore-online/spotify/ great-fire-london-mp4-walking-tour/
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J The Monument is a stone Roman Doric column in the City of London commemorating the fire – the tallest isolated stone column in the world and a superb vantage point over the city. www.themonument.info J At St Paul’s Cathedral you can climb the dome of Wren’s masterpiece for panoramic views across London. www.stpauls.co.uk J Until 28 March 2016 the Samuel Pepys: Plague, Fire, Revolution exhibition will run at the National Maritime Museum in Greenwich. www.rmg.co.uk
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London’s burning
J Numerous unusual plans for rebuilding London were proposed, one of the most radical from a Somerset cartographer, Richard Newcourt, who drew up a vast gridiron pattern of 55 parishes, each contained within a rectangle of identical size. J Army officer Valentine Knight proposed building a huge canal that would yield revenue through taxes, but Charles II disliked the idea of making profit from disaster and threw him into prison. J Plans for the Monument varied too: Wren’s design to place a 15ft statue of Charles II in Roman costume on top of the column was deemed too expensive. The eventual column was used as a place for experiments by the Royal Society but these ceased because vibrations from passing traffic made precision impossible. J Wren also created at least four designs for the new St Paul’s, including the Great Model (rejected in 1674) that can be viewed in the cathedral’s Trophy Room. The most fantastical was suggested as part of repairs even before the Great Fire: his ‘Pineapple Design’ featuring a 68ft carved pineapple – the exotic fruit had only recently been brought to England – sprouting from the top of the dome.
Famous legacies of the rebuilding are Wren’s churches and his masterpiece, St Paul’s Cathedral declare: “It is not only the finest, but the most healthy city in the world.” Much post-fire architecture has since vanished, but gems can still be found like the charming townhouse home (now museum) of the dictionary-compiler Dr Johnson in Gough Square. Visit, too, the Monument (junction of Monument Street and Fish Street Hill) constructed by Wren and Robert Hooke. Completed in 1677, the column is 61 metres tall – the exact distance between it and the site in Pudding Lane where the fire started – and 311 steps lead to a viewing platform offering superb vistas. The most famous legacies of the rebuilding project are Wren’s churches and his masterpiece, St Paul’s Cathedral. As many as 29 of the 51 churches he designed still stand,
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Above: The ‘wedding cake' spire of St Bride's church. Top right: London in 1666, with the burnt area shown in pink
remarkable for their striking array of steeples and spires: from the Baroque architecture of St Vedast on Foster Lane to the Gothic design of St Dunstan in the East, the slender spire of St Martin within Ludgate and the ‘wedding cake’ tiers of St Bride’s. For the crowning glory, explore St Paul’s Cathedral whose dome, which at 111.3 metres high is one of the largest in the world, has become an iconic feature of London’s skyline. Wren revised his designs throughout the cathedral’s building from 1675 to 1710, but the result is stunning – it’s 528 steps and 85.4 metres to the Golden Gallery for panoramic scenes over the Thames, Tate Modern and Shakespeare’s Globe. The ‘tabula rasa’ left by the Great Fire of London may not have been filled by a model Renaissance city as proposed by visionaries such as Wren, but it inspired some genuine treasures and made the capital an altogether safer city for generations to come.
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PHOTOS: © RSTEVE TAYLOR/ARPS/ALAMY/WIKIPEDIA
LEFT ON THE DRAWING BOARD
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Around town
ALL THE TIME IN THE WORLD As the Royal Borough of Greenwich prepares for the 400th anniversary of the Queen’s House in 2016, we visit the birthplace of some very distinguished Tudors WORDS SALLY COFFEY
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the Cutty Sark, which reopened in 2012 following a devastating fire in 2007. Its restoration included raising the ship to expose its copper hull – there’s even a café beneath it. In July another of Greenwich’s restored attractions will reopen. The Queen’s House, commissioned by Anne of Denmark, the consort of King James I, was Britain’s first building in the Palladian style. The queen asked architect Inigo Jones to design a pavilion after her husband awarded the manor of Greenwich to her in 1614 by way of an apology for publicly swearing at her after she shot one of his dogs in error. Construction was halted in 1618 when the queen fell ill and she died the following year. Work didn’t begin again until King Charles I gave the property to his queen, Henrietta Maria, but she
Above: The 90ft dome on entry to the Painted Hall is one of the most spectacular in London Below: The Queen's House – its Palladian design inspired that of many British country houses Previous page: The Old Royal Naval College is the centrepiece of the UNESCO approved Maritime Greenwich World Heritage Site
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PHOTOS: © RUDY SULGAN/CORBIS/NATIONAL MARITIME MUSEUM/VISITENGLAND/VISIT GREENWICH
G
reenwich is the only one of London’s 32 boroughs to have its town centre inscribed on the World Heritage list. Maritime Greenwich World Heritage Site includes the Queen’s House, the Royal Observatory (home to Greenwich Meridian), the royal park within which it lies, the Old Royal Naval College (much of which was designed by Christopher Wren), and the villas and formal stuccoed terraces that frame its historic centre. It’s little wonder Greenwich met with approval from UNESCO. At the Royal Observatory you can see pioneer John Harrison’s precision clocks, designed in the 18th century, which sailors set their watches by, while at Greenwich Park you can sit under the Queen Elizabeth Oak – the remains of a tree said to have sheltered Queen Elizabeth I and by which her father, King Henry VIII, once danced with Anne Boleyn. It is perhaps its beautiful riverside setting that first attracted royal attention in the 15th century when Humphrey, Duke of Gloucester, the youngest son of King Henry IV, had the first Greenwich Palace built and enclosed what is today known as Greenwich Park. The palace was altered by Margaret of Anjou, wife of King Henry VI, and Elizabeth Woodville, King Edward IV’s wife. It was rebuilt in 1499 by King Henry VII after the birth of his son, King Henry VIII, here. Greenwich Palace soon became one of the most celebrated palaces in Europe and was the birthplace of Henry VIII’s two daughters, Elizabeth and Mary. You can reach Maritime Greenwich by Docklands Light Railway or get an MBNA Thames Clipper boat. Either way, you’ll alight by the world’s last tea clipper,
PHOTOS: © XXXXXXX XXXXXXXXXXXX/ALAMY
Historic Greenwhich
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Previous page: The copper hull of the recently restored Cutty Sark tea clipper
didn’t have much time to enjoy it either, as she fled Britain at the outbreak of the English Civil War, just seven years after the house was completed. After the creation of the Commonwealth, it became a government residence and though it lost many of its treasures, it now houses a world-class art collection. The Queen’s House fared better than Greenwich Palace though, which lay empty for years before Greenwich Hospital (the Royal Hospital for Seamen), now the Old Royal Naval College, was built. Christopher Wren and his assistant Nicholas Hawksmoor offered their services as architects of the
PLAN YOUR VISIT
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LONDON | 2016 GUIDE
GREENWICH TAVERN Facing the National Maritime Museum entrance to Greenwich Park, this pub overlooks a statue of King William IV and has lovely views. Set over three floors and with a contemporary finish, it serves traditional pub grub, including handmade burgers. www.greenwichtavern.co.uk
THE GREENWICH LONDON This 145-room boutique hotel, looked after by the Mercure hotel group, is in a 1930s building that originally housed police officers and now has. chic modern decor. The ‘privilege’ rooms on the 8th and 9th floors have stunning views through its two-storey glass roof extension. www.thegreenwichlondon.com
EMIRATES AIR-LINE The UK’s first urban cable car, with views of the 02 and the Shard, connects the Greenwich Peninsula with Royal Victoria across the Thames. Round trips take 20 mins and cost £10.70 return, including entry to the Emirates Aviation Experience; adult singles £4.50. www.emiratesairline.co.uk
GREENWICH MARKET This bustling market, which was granted a Royal Charter in 1700, is now open seven days a week and is the only London market set within a World Heritage Site. It’s a great place to shop for souvenirs, including antiques, art and quirky gifts. www.greenwichmarketlondon.com
DISCOVER GREENWICH This visitor centre, which adjoins the tourist information centre near the Cutty Sark (left), is a fount of all knowledge on the history of the area and includes a Tudor window from the original Greenwich Palace. www.ornc.org/discover-greenwich-visitor-centre
NATIONAL MARITIME MUSEUM Visit the world’s largest maritime museum, which until 28 March 2016 will be hosting the exhibition Samuel Pepys: Plague, Fire and Revolution, which marks the 350th anniversary of the Great Fire of London (see page 35) . www.rmg.co.uk/national-maritime-museum
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PHOTOS: © PETER PHIPP/TRAVELSHOTS.COM/ALAMY/JOHN STURROCK/PICASA /NATIONAL MARITIME MUSEUM GREENWICH/VISITGREENWICH/JON STOKES
Above: Riverside view of the Old Royal Naval College – little has changed since it was painted by Canaletto in the 18th century
hospital, which was to look after injured and retired sailors of the Royal Navy under the instruction of Queen Mary II and King William III, free of charge. The result of the building works is one of London’s genuine hidden gems – the Painted Hall, which some say is Britain’s answer to the Sistine Chapel and is the largest figurative painting in the country. The frescoed hall, designed by Sir Christopher Wren, and painted by Sir James Thornhill, was originally intended as a dining hall for naval pensioners and includes one of the most impressive domed ceilings in the whole of the capital. Fitting then that it was here that the body of Admiral Horatio Lord Nelson was brought to lie in state in January 1806, three months after his death at the Battle of Trafalgar. Today a huge conservation project is underway to restore and preserve Thornhill’s masterpiece for generations to come. One of the most enduring images of Greenwich is in an 18th-century painting by Canaletto. A View of Greenwich from the River, which can be seen at Abbot Hall Art Gallery in the Lake District, depicts a very similar scene as can be seen when you take a river ride from Greenwich to North Greenwich today, proving that little has changed over the centuries. This journey is also a great way to contrast the heritage of Maritime Greenwich with the modern architecture of Canary Wharf and the Greenwich Peninsula – another side of the capital altogether.
THE WESTBRIDGE 335-337 HIGH STREET, LONDON E15 2TF T: +44 (0)203 327 4969
E: info@thewestbridge.com W: www.thewestbridge.com
Stylish 4* hotel located at the heart of Stratford London with a fabulous mix of shops, restaurants and NGCFKPI XGPWGU HQT GPVGTVCKPOGPV CTV URQTV CPF NGKUWTG 9KVJKP HGY OKPWVGUo YCNM HTQO 9GUVƂGNF 5JQRRKPI %GPVTG Queen Elizabeth Olympic Park and 20-minute train ride from London’s main tourist sites including Big Ben, 9GUVOKPUVGT #DDG[ %QXGPV )CTFGP CPF .GKEGUVGT 5SWCTG (CEKNKVKGU KPENWFG 4QQOU )[O .QWPIG $WUKPGUU %GPVTG 4GUVCWTCPV %QWTV[CTF (TGG 9K (K BOOK SEVEN DAYS OR MORE IN ADVANCE AND SAVE £15 PER NIGHT ON YOUR ROOM. For full terms and conditions visit www.thewestbridge.com
CAPITAL
VIEWS For glorious vistas of London, from vertigo-inducing views from the top of the Shard to romantic panoramas on Hampstead Heath, head to the city’s best vantage points WORDS FLORA HUGHES-ONSLOW
London
THE LONDON EYE Just one revolution on board the giant Ferris wheel, the London Eye, will enable you to view a remarkable stretch of the capital. At its peak the wheel is 442ft (135m) high and you can see for 25 miles in every direction (weather permitting), from your comfortable glass pod. It offers plenty of packages for special occasions, from afternoon tea to a chocolate-tasting experience or a Champagne reception. www.londoneye.com
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Best Vistas
THE SHARD While a little pricey to get up there, the view from the Shard, London’s magnificent 87-storey skyscraper, is certainly impressive. With the UK’s highest public viewing galleries and Western Europe's tallest building at 787ft (240m) above street level, visitors can enjoy 360-degree views for up to 40 miles. Take in over 1,000 years of the capital's history all at once. Tickets allow you 30 minutes at the top, plus a weather guarantee, meaning that in case of bad weather you can return another time for free. The Shard frequently hosts fun events across its various floors, including yoga classes and silent discos. Visit the Aqua Shard dining room and bar on level 31 for panoramic views while enjoying afternoon tea, dinner or cocktails.
PHOTOS: © TRAVEL PIX COLLECTION/AWL IMAGES LTD/ALAN COPSON/CULTURA TRAVEL/RICHARD SEYMOUR/GETTY IMAGES
www.theviewfromtheshard.com
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Best Vistas
HAMPSTEAD HEATH Whatever the weather, the untamed meadows, ponds and woodlands of Hampstead Heath offer an enchanting escape from the sprawling city. Spanning 791 acres from Hampstead to Highgate in north London, it has been the inspiration behind much art and literature and is home to the beautiful former stately home, Kenwood House. Now managed by English Heritage, Kenwood and its grounds often play host to outdoor summer concerts and exhibitions. The swimming ponds are perfect for
cooling off on hot summer days and the cityscape in the distance forms a wonderful backdrop for picnics. In the south-east corner of the Heath, Parliament Hill boasts a panorama of London so impressive it is protected by law. On a clear day, you can see almost all of the capital’s major landmarks, from the ‘Gherkin’ and the Shard to majestic St Paul’s. www.cityoflondon.gov.uk
The Monument stands exactly 202ft (62m) from where the Great Fire of London started on Pudding Lane
THE MONUMENT
PHOTOS: © ALEX SEGRE/ALAMY/ALISTAIR LAMING
Built between 1671 and 1677 to commemorate the Great Fire of London of 1666 and to celebrate the rebuilding of the City, the Monument boasts prime position as a Central London vantage point near the northern end of London Bridge. It is the tallest isolated stone column in the world, at 202ft (62m) high, and is in close proximity to the spot in Pudding Lane on which the Great Fire is believed to have started. Visitors to this grand, fluted Doric column, designed by Sir Christopher Wren with a gilded urn of fire on top, can climb up the interior to the observation gallery to enjoy a splendid urban vista. Thanks to an installation by video artist Chris Meigh-Andrews, even those not keen to ascend the 311 steps to the top can enjoy the views via a live stream of time-lapse images 24 hours a day, screened on a display near the base of the Monument. www.themonument.info
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OPEN DAILY FROM 10:00 TO MIDNIGHT NO. 1 PICCADILLY CIRCUS RIPLEYSLONDON.COM
Best Vistas
TOWER BRIDGE
ST PANCRAS INTERNATIONAL STATION London’s St Pancras International Station, with its grand neo-Gothic facade, also provides one of the city’s most impressive views from within. A beautiful construction with gracefully curved arches and light pouring in, it is the result of a massive redevelopment that has made the view at St Pancras a must-see. www.stpancras.com
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black cabs whir beneath you and perhaps even catch the bascules being raised. You can also gaze outwards at the Tower of London, St Paul’s and hundreds of other landmarks while learning, via the exhibition, how and why the bridge was built and the intricacies of all its inner workings. www.towerbridge.org.uk
SKY GARDEN With three venues to choose from – Fenchurch Seafood Bar & Grill, the Sky Pod Bar and the Darwin Brasserie – at the top of 20 Fenchurch Street in the City of London, Sky Garden offers some of the best views in the capital. Book ahead to enjoy a cocktail or two set against a magnificent river and city backdrop. www.skygarden.london
ROYAL OBSERVATORY GREENWICH High up on a hill in Greenwich Park, overlooking the River Thames, the Royal Observatory is one of the best spots to watch the sun setting over London (and for stargazing at night). It’s also the home of Greenwich Mean Time; you can stand on the Meridian Line here – the dividing point between Earth’s eastern and western hemispheres. www.rmg.co.uk/royal-observatory
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PHOTO: © VISITBRITAIN/MARKTHOMASSON
Arguably the most famous bridge in the world, and certainly one of London’s most instantly recognisable landmarks, Tower Bridge recently received a £4 million facelift. The now revamped Tower Bridge Exhibition offers fantastic bird's-eye views of London life from its new, high-level glass walkways. Set 137ft (42m) above the River Thames, you can watch the traffic of red London buses and
London Bridge Hotel has everything you need in a London hotel, relaxed yet comfortable and contemporary accommodation; a great location and transport links and the buzz of the city just outside the door. Situated in the heart of the historic and thriving Borough of Southwark, London Bridge Hotel provides an excellent base from which to enjoy all the attractions of the capital, The Shard, the newly regenerated London Bridge Quarter, Borough Market and the River Thames. Whilst here you must pay a visit to Quarter Bar & Lounge, the hotel’s bar which offers a chic design with a relaxed and comfortable atmosphere. Choose a glamorous cocktail from our vast menu, or if hunger beckons why not try one of our sharing platters and other tasty treats.
8/18 London Bridge Street
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London
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SE1 9SG
Tel: +44 (0) 20 7855 2200 Email: reservations@londonbridgehotel.com www.londonbridgehotel.com
THE
DEEP SOUTH For the best culture in the capital, London’s Southbank still reigns supreme WORDS SALLY COFFEY
Culture
Left to right: The London Eye, seen through one of the Southbank's temporary performance spaces; the Oxo Tower
STEP BACK IN TIME TO 1899 THE SAMBOURNE FAMILY HOME
OPEN SEPTEMBER TO JUNE PUBLIC OPEN ACCESS NOW AVAILABLE GUIDED & COSTUMED TOURS ON EVENTBRITE.CO.UK
18 Stafford Terrace London W8 7BH www.rbkc.gov.uk/museums
Culture
O
n a house to the east of Blackfriars Bridge on the south bank of the River Thames (in an area now referred to as Bankside) is a plaque that reads: “Here lived Sir Christopher Wren during the building of St Paul’s Cathedral” a claim that has been widely dismissed by historians, though it is accepted that he probably stayed in a house close by. Not far from here is the spot where Shakespeare’s Globe theatre (which the playwright owned shares in but, contrary to popular belief, didn’t actually set up) stood until the Puritans ordered its closure in 1642, leading to its demolition two years later. It has since been reconstructed as faithfully as possible to its 16th-century design. Despite the historical significance of this area, the riverbank to the west of these sites, now known as London’s Southbank, was largely ignored until the 19th century, save a period in the Middle Ages when it was used for illicit entertainment, prostitution and bear-baiting. London’s Southbank refers to an area of riverside that stretches for two miles from Westminster Bridge, which
PHOTOS: © DOUG ARMAND/GETTY/STEVE VIDLER/TRAVELPIX COLLECTION/ CORBIS/EDEN BREITZ/ALAMY/NOHELY OLIVEROS/MIKE KEMP
has been pivotal to the growth and evolution of the city over the past century and a half. Prior to the 19th century much of this part of the Thames was marshy and considered inhabitable but following the opening of the now beloved Old Vic theatre (then called the Royal Coburg) in 1818, two things happened that changed the fortunes of the region. In the 1830s the industrial revolution brought multiple wharves, tanneries, waterworks and leadworks to the area; and in 1848 a train station opened at nearby Waterloo. One of the most celebrated of these new businesses was the Lion Brewery and following its closure in the 20th century the Coade stone lion of its frontage was saved (reportedly on the request of King George VI) and placed on Westminster Bridge: it is now called the South Bank Lion. However, the Southbank as we know it today – a cultural hub that features some of the best live performance spaces in the world – only really began to take form following the Festival of Britain in 1951. The Royal Festival Hall was built specifically to host the London centrepiece of this extravaganza, a national
The Royal Festival Hall was built as the centrepiece of the 1951 Festival of Britain – a national celebration that aimed to lift the nation's post-war spirits
Above: Shakespeare's Globe theatre has been reconstructed and is now an exciting theatrical space. Left: The Royal Festival Hall plays host to some of the world's most revered classical concerts. Below: The Southbank Centre houses multiple arts and culture venues
Culture
celebration of Britain’s contribution to science, technology, industrial design, architecture and the arts, which aimed to lift the nation’s spirits post-war. Over the next couple of decades new artistic spaces opened, not always to the approval of audiences. The ‘brutalist’ architecture of both the Queen Elizabeth Hall and the National Theatre were at first maligned, though today they are celebrated for their post-modern designs. The Southbank Centre, which has been given an overhaul in recent years, now encompasses the Royal Festival Hall, Queen Elizabeth Hall, Purcell Room, the Hayward Gallery, and the Saison Poetry Library, all of which host innovative (and often free) arts projects. You can hear talks by some of our nation’s best writers and enjoy the vibrant festival schedule, which ensures something exciting is happening every weekend. See the English National Ballet, or listen to a performance by the London Philharmonic Orchestra, which is celebrating the
PHOTOS: © VIBRANT PICTURES/ALAMY/TONY FRENCH/DANIEL LEAL-OLIVAS/CORBIS
Above: The English National Ballet regularly performs in the Southbank Centre. Right: The riverside bar of the British Film Institute. Below: The daily Southbank Centre Book Market
legacy of William Shakespeare, 400 years after his death, with performances exploring the playwright’s global legacy until 30 April. Bag yourself tickets for the Spring proms, or not to be missed is the Festival of Love from 4 June to 29 August – celebrating the greatest of emotions with music and art. If the world of stage excites you then the National Theatre, which was borne from the Old Vic and moved here under the directorship of Sir Peter Hall, is hard to beat. It puts out on average 20 new performances each year, with everyone from Dame Judi Dench to Ralph Fiennes treading its hallowed boards. Next door, the British Film Institute has the most impressive film collection in the country with regular screenings of classics from the likes of Charlie Chaplin, Elizabeth Taylor and Cary Grant alongside the most
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LORD’S MUSEUM & TOURS Walk in the footsteps of cricket legends
A Tour of Lord’s provides a fascinating insight behind-the-scenes of the most famous cricket ground in the world. With extraordinary architecture, and a fascinating collection of art and memorabilia, a Lord’s Tour is not only a must for all cricket fans, but for everyone looking for a quintessentially English experience.
For more information please visit lords.org/tours
Culture EDITOR’S PICK LONDON MARRIOTT HOTEL COUNTY HALL Housed in the old County Hall, you won't find a more perfectly placed hotel for exploring this part of London – gaze out at Big Ben and the Houses of Parliament or hop on the nearby London Eye. www.marriott.com LOWER MARSH MARKET Escape the main thoroughfare of the Southbank to this lovely side road, which hosts a market from Monday to Saturday, and you’ll feel like you’ve stumbled upon a secret. www.lowermarshmarket.co.uk AFTERNOON TEA At the rooftop OXO Tower Restaurant, Brasserie and Bar you can enjoy afternoon tea with a twist while taking in London’s spectacular skyline, including St Paul’s. www.oxotower.co.uk
avant-garde new releases. In addition, you can book a slot to watch and listen in private to any of the 2,500 films in its huge Mediatheque catalogue for free. When you’re finished, browse the hundreds of secondhand books for sale at the daily Southbank Centre Book Market, which is something of a London institution. If you’re feeling peckish or simply fancy a glass of Champagne or a cocktail, then the Oxo Tower with its splendid vistas is perfect, as is Skylon, a modern European restaurant within the Royal Festival Hall itself. For a more relaxed affair, Gabriel’s Wharf is tucked away in a little enclave near the Oxo Tower and has some lovely independent shops beside a pizzeria and Studio Six, an informal restaurant serving British fare. However, by far our favourite way to experience the Southbank is to stroll along its promenade in the late afternoon when there’s still a buzz about the place and dusk is beginning to fall, giving the city’s skyline a romantic glow. For us, this is London at its best.
PHOTOS: © STEVE VIDLER/CORBIS/CATH HARRIES/ALAMY/PAILAB SETH/GETTY
Above: The famous London Eye at night Right: There are lots of places to eat, such as the stylish Skylon with floor-to-ceiling window views. Below: A street performer at dusk on the Southbank
For more on the capital's hotspots and the best cultural houses go to www.britain-magazine.com
Our favourite way to experience the Southbank is to stroll along its promenade as dusk is starting to fall, which gives the city's famous skyline a romantic glow
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VISIT A PRIVATE
PALACE OF ART
12 Holland Park Road London W14 8LZ Open 10am - 5:30pm, closed Tuesdays For exhibitions & public events visit: www.leightonhouse.co.uk
Competition
WIN A GREAT BRITISH HOLIDAY Here’s your chance to win a luxury, all-expenses-paid holiday to Britain, including free flights if you live outside the UK, courtesy of BRITAIN
Five-star London On arrival, our winner and his or her companion will be whisked off to the heart of town to spend two nights in a Junior Suite at the fabulous Savoy, where previous guests have included King Edward VII, Cary Grant and Elizabeth Taylor. During your stay in London, your time is your own to do as you please – we’re sure you’ll want to see the sights and visit Buckingham Palace, Big Ben and the Tower of London. And we’ll also treat you to afternoon tea at the exclusive Mews of Mayfair, just off Bond Street, London’s premier shopping parade, as well as an evening out at a theatre show of your choice in the glamorous West End.
Treasure Houses After a breathtaking few days in London, it’s time for a trip to the country to visit the Treasure Houses
of England, where you can admire some of Britain’s most historic stately homes such as Blenheim Palace, birthplace of Sir Winston Churchill, and moated Leeds Castle, and enjoy a two-night stay as the special guests of Classic British Hotels. Our winner and companion will also receive an exclusive private tour in a luxury car, complete with a personal driver-guide, courtesy of British Heritage Chauffeur Tours. Choose between a Downton Abbey-themed tour or a trip to the Cotswolds. Our duo will then enjoy a further two nights in the countryside in their very own home from home, staying in a romantic hideaway of their choice courtesy of Sykes Cottages. Finally, we’ll whisk you back to spend the last night of your holiday in London at the private members’ Sloane Club, which includes a spa, roof terrace, and an exclusive dining room, where executive chef Bernhard Mayer (previously of The Savoy) heads up the kitchen. Along the way we’ll throw in a few surprises, introduce you to some celebrities to make your holiday even more memorable, and accommodate any special requests of your own – before bidding you a fond farewell. This exclusive once-in-a-lifetime holiday may be taken at any time between 1 October 2016 and 31 August 2017.
Stepping through the revolving doors of The Savoy is like stepping back into an era of 1920s sophistication and glamour. Footmen will greet you on arrival before escorting you to one of the elegant Junior Suites. Breakfast is included. www.fairmont.com/savoy-london
Our winner will receive a Gold Pass, which entitles two people to one visit each to the 10 Treasure Houses of England, our nation’s most resplendent historic homes, which include some of the most important art collections in the world, as well as fine furniture, porcelain and china. www.treasurehouses.co.uk
Our winner and his or her guest will also enjoy a luxury two-night boutique break with Classic British Hotels, the official hotel partner of the Treasure Houses of England, including a three-course dinner each night and a full breakfast on both mornings. www.classicbritishhotels.com FREE TRAVEL
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PHOTOS: © TRAVEL PICTURES/ALAMY/VISITENGLAND/VISITKENT/ TONY MURRAY PHOTOGRAPHY
Our five-star, one-week holiday for two will be the trip of a lifetime as our winners visit many of Britain’s most iconic landmarks and receive celebrity-style red-carpet treatment along the way. Your fantastic holiday will start the moment you leave home because our prize includes the cost of your travel to London, whether you live 10 or 10,000 miles away from Britain’s capital city.
● Free travel ● 2 nights at The Savoy ● West End tickets ● Afternoon tea ● Free entry to stately homes ● 2 nights at a boutique hotel ● A chauffeur-driven tour ● 2 nights in a romantic cottage ● 1 night at The Sloane Club
Clockwise, from top left: London’s exclusive Sloane Club; The Savoy; London’s buzzing West End; a romantic bolthole with Sykes Cottages; moated Leeds Castle; our winner will be chauffeured around for the day
HOW TO ENTER To be in with the chance of winning this special prize go to
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For full Terms and Conditions go to www.britain-magazine. www.chelseamagazines.com/GreatBritishComp com/5starholiday Closing date for entries is 14August June 2016. 2016. Winner Winner willwill bebe chosen notified andbynotified 1 0 August by 12016. July 2016.to Prize Prize be redeemed to be redeemed and used andbetween used between 1 October 1 October 2016 and 201631and August 31 August 2017. 2017
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JOURNEY THROUGH 150 YEARS OF PREMIUM GIN MAKING IN THE HEART OF LONDON. DISCOVER THE HISTORY OF BEEFEATER AND THE SECRETS BEHIND THE WORLD’S MOST AWARDED GIN.
Visit us at: beefeaterdistillery.com Beefeater London The Home of Gin, 20 Montford Place, London SE11 5DE. Opening times Monday - Saturday 10am - 6pm, Closed on Sundays. PLEASE ENJOY BEEFEATER RESPONSIBLY
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DAYS OUT
In London you are spoilt for choice when it comes to things to do – here are our top recommendations WORDS ANNABELLE THORPE
Attractions
Previous page: The British Museum's Great Court, the largest covered public square in Europe. This page: The majestic Buckingham Palace
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HERITAGE 1 TOWER OF LONDON
Home to a thousand years of history, this former grand palace, royal residence and infamous prison offers the chance to see the Crown Jewels and meet the superbly scarlet-coated Beefeaters. www.hrp.org.uk/TowerOfLondon 2 ST PAUL’S CATHEDRAL
At Sir Christopher Wren’s masterpiece you can experience the magical acoustics of the Whispering Gallery, plus take in the spectacular views from the Golden Gallery and visit Oculus, a new 270-degree immersive experience. www.stpauls.co.uk 3 NATURAL HISTORY MUSEUM
From full-size dinosaur skeletons to prehistoric fossils, discover the history of Earth through interactive displays on the thousands of different species that call our planet home. www.nhm.ac.uk 4 KENSINGTON PALACE
PHOTOS: © BLACKOUT CONCEPTS/ALAMY/JULIAN LOVE/AWL/VISITLONDON/VISITBRITAIN/ANDREW PICKETT/BRITAIN ON VIEW
The official London residence of the Duke and Duchess of Cambridge and Prince Harry, visitors can see the Queen’s State Apartments and discover the secrets of Queen Victoria’s reign. www.hrp.org.uk/kensingtonpalace 5 BRITISH MUSEUM
A day is barely long enough to discover the treasures of this world-famous institution, from ancient Egyptian sarcophagi to Roman relics, Middle Eastern ceramics, medieval armour and thousands of other exhibits. www.britishmuseum.org
ever seen, from the 1920s through to the present day. www.royalcollection.org.uk 8 HAMPTON COURT PALACE
Step back into the Tudor world of King Henry VIII, visit the spectacular Great Hall, see the working kitchens and stroll through the glorious gardens that roll down to the Thames at this riverside palace. www.hrp.org.uk 9 THE IMPERIAL WAR MUSEUM
Through interactive exhibits, oral histories and espionage equipment, along with letters, photos and documents from serving soldiers – discover the history of Britain’s role in two world wars. www.iwm.org.uk 10 MUSEUM OF LONDON
Trace the history of the capital from Roman times through the medieval period to the present day, with over a million exhibits in this breathtaking museum. www.museumoflondon.org.uk 11 NATIONAL MARITIME MUSEUM
Tales of exploration, adventure and discovery are on show at the largest maritime museum in the world. It charts Britain’s seafaring history over the centuries in exquisite detail. www.rmg.co.uk 12 WESTMINSTER ABBEY
Visit the church where monarchs are crowned, princes are married and 700 years of history come together in one of the most beautiful buildings in the UK. www.westminster-abbey.org
6 CHURCHILL WAR ROOMS
13 HMS BELFAST
Hidden below Westminster, discover the secret bunker used by Churchill for Cabinet meetings during World War II, and trace the great man’s life and legacy. www.iwm.org.uk
Learn about life on board this historic warship, which played a central role in the Second World War and was out at sea until 1963. www.iwm.org.uk
7 BUCKINGHAM PALACE
Summer visitors to London can visit the 19 State Rooms at HM The Queen’s London office, where she receives visiting dignitaries. In 2016 Buckingham Palace will host the Fashioning a Reign exhibition, the largest showcase of Her Majesty’s wardrobe www.britain-magazine.com
Right, top to bottom: The Millennium Bridge, which links Bankside and the City of London; the famous Diplodocus model in the Hintze Hall at the Natural History Museum; Hampton Court; The Lord Mayor's State Coach at the Museum of London
Attractions
HIDDEN GEMS 14 SAVOY MUSEUM
19 DULWICH PICTURE GALLERY
A secret treasure inside The Savoy, this small museum displays cards from famous guests, vintage alcohol and a statue of Kaspar the cat, used to balance the numbers when there are 13 at dinner. www.fairmont.com/savoy
The oldest public gallery in England, the elegant 19th-century building has a permanent collection, including works by Rembrandt, Rubens and Gainsborough and regularly changing exhibitions. www.dulwichpicturegallery.org.uk
15 CHELSEA PHYSIC GARDEN
20 WILTON’S MUSIC HALL
Founded in 1673 as the Apothecaries' Garden, this walled oasis has thousands of different plants in five separate gardens, many of them still grown for their medicinal benefits. www.chelseaphysicgarden.co.uk
A traditional Victorian music hall, Wilton’s has been restored to its former glory. Take a tour of the building, see a live performance or just have a drink in the impressive Mahogany Bar. www.wiltons.org.uk
16 HORNIMAN MUSEUM
21 THE TEMPLE
Quirky and delightful, the Horniman is tucked away in south London and focuses on anthropology, natural history and musical instruments. It also has an aquarium and lovely gardens. www.horniman.ac.uk
Explore the history of law in London through the beautiful grounds, gardens and chambers of the historic Temple buildings and visit the 12th-century Temple Church, made famous in The Da Vinci Code. www.templechurch.com
Tucked away within west London’s Holland Park, this tranquil Japanese garden has a classic oriental feel with sparkling waterfalls and gleaming ponds, filled with bright orange koi carp. www.rbkc.gov.uk
22 COLUMBIA ROAD FLOWER MARKET
Every Sunday morning this unassuming London street bursts into bloom, with hundreds of stalls selling every kind of flower and plant imaginable. In among the greenery there are also excellent cafés. www.columbiaroad.info
18 ROYAL MEWS
A must for horse lovers, the Mews combines stabling for the Queen’s horses, a home for the ornate Diamond Jubilee State Coach and all the Royal Family’s historic carriages. www.royalcollection.org.uk
23 MUDCHUTE CITY FARM
This working farm in central London is a great family day out, with horses and ponies to meet, sheep to feed and dozens of rare breed animals roaming through 32 acres. www.mudchute.org
PHOTOS: © ALEX SEGRE/ALAMY/ALISTAIR LAMING
PHOTOS: ©© LATITUDESTOCK/ALAMY/ARCAID IMAGES
17 KYOTO GARDEN, HOLLAND PARK
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CULTURE 24 SOMERSET HOUSE
29 NATIONAL THEATRE
Rising from the banks of the Thames, 18th-century Somerset House hosts an ice rink in the winter, concerts in the summer and a world-class art collection at the Courtauld Gallery. www.somersethouse.org.uk
Far more than just a theatre, watch a play at one of its three different auditoriums, join a backstage tour, see live music, explore architectural exhibitions, or just soak up the atmosphere. www.nationaltheatre.org.uk
25 V&A MUSEUM
30 NATIONAL PORTRAIT GALLERY
At the world’s leading museum of art and design, there are a staggering 4.5million objects to discover – from furniture to ceramics, glass, jewellery and fashion. www.vam.ac.uk
Founded in 1856 to collect portraits of famous British men and women, the gallery now holds over 160,000 portraits of everyone from prime ministers to poets. www.npg.org.uk
26 THE ROYAL ALBERT HALL
31 THE ROYAL OPERA HOUSE
Home of the ‘Proms’ and a year-round programme of concerts and performances – visitors can also take tours of the iconic circular building. www.royalalberthall.com
Home to the Royal Opera, Royal Ballet and the Orchestra of the Royal Opera. Visit for a performance or take a tour of one of the most elegant and fascinating theatres in the world. www.roh.org.uk
27 BBC BROADCASTING HOUSE TOUR
For anyone who’s ever fancied themselves as a newsreader, this tour offers the chance to peak behind the scenes at the BBC before getting to present the news in a virtual reality studio. www.bbc.co.uk/showsandtours
The 12th-century Temple Church was built by the Knights Templar. Left: The beautiful Wilton's Music Hall. Top Right: The National Gallery
www.britain-magazine.com
32 THE ROYAL ACADEMY
Arguably London’s most beautiful gallery, the RA is best known for its Summer Exhibition, but runs a rolling programme throughout the year and has a permanent collection of world-class fine art. www.royalacademy.org.uk
28 THE NATIONAL GALLERY
A vast gallery that dominates Trafalgar Square, the National Gallery houses a collection that encompasses work by some of the world’s best-loved artists, from Rembrandt and Van Gogh to Monet and Picasso. www.nationalgallery.org.uk
33 KINGS PLACE
This brand-new cultural hub in King’s Cross boasts two world-class concert halls, an art gallery and a waterside restaurant, bringing the best contemporary artists together. www.kingsplace.co.uk LONDON | 2016 GUIDE
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34 MUSEUM OF CHILDHOOD
38 WEMBLEY STADIUM TOUR
42 THE GOLDEN HINDE II
Introduce the kids to toys and games from a bygone era, along with workshops, hands-on activities and changing exhibitions on childhood from around the world. www.vam.ac.uk/moc
Go behind the scenes at Wembley to relive classic sporting moments and experience the tension of the players tunnel. Experience Royal Box views and feel the history in the England changing rooms. www.wembleystadium.com
Discover the life of a 16th-century explorer on board the gorgeous Golden Hinde II, a full-scale reconstruction of the ship used by Sir Francis Drake to circumnavigate the globe. www.goldenhinde.com
35 MADAME TUSSAUDS
39 DIANA, PRINCESS OF WALES’ MEMORIAL PLAYGROUND
43 LORD’S, THE HOME OF CRICKET
Take a selfie with David Beckham, cosy up to the Queen, and get shaken and stirred with James Bond at the world’s most famous waxworks museum. www.madametussauds.com 36 SEA LIFE LONDON AQUARIUM
The sharks are inches away at the London Aquarium, along with Cuban crocodiles and gently gliding stingrays. Watch penguins picnic, octopi dance and walk beneath the water in a glass tunnel. www2.visitsealife.com/london
A spectacular wooden pirate ship dominates the playground dedicated to the memory of Princess Diana. There is also a sensory trail, play sculptures and tepees, as well as plenty of seating for tired parents. www.royalparks.org.uk 40 LONDON TRANSPORT MUSEUM
Put the kids behind the wheel of a London bus, help them repair a model tube train and play in the lost-property office – then discover dozens of vintage vehicles. www.ltmuseum.co.uk
37 THE ROYAL OBSERVATORY
Stand astride two hemispheres on the Greenwich Meridian Line. Discover captivating stories of alien life and see the night sky and its constellations up close and personal at London’s only planetarium. www.rmg.co.uk
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Inspire the next generation of sports stars with a tour of Lord's cricket ground where you can admire legends on the Honours Boards or see the famous Ashes urn. www.lords.org 44 SCIENCE MUSEUM
Science comes alive at this museum, which covers everything from space travel to the birth of computing, via the Apollo 10 Command Module, early flying contraptions and historic steam engines. www.sciencemuseum.org.uk 45 HAMLEYS
41 LONDON DUNGEON
Older children will love the chance to meet some of London’s most infamous criminals, including Sweeney Todd, Jack the Ripper and Guy Fawkes at this garish and suitably gory attraction. www.thedungeons.com
More than just a toy shop, children will be occupied for hours in this huge playroom. It has free demonstrations and magicians, while parents and grandparents can get nostalgic with a ‘memory town’ of vintage toys and games. www.hamleys.co.uk
Clockwise from top left: Sea Life London Aquarium; the Birth of the Space Age exhibit at The Science Museum; waxworks of The Beatles at Madame Tussauds www.britain-magazine.com
PHOTOS: © ALAN CHANDLER/BRITISH TOURIST AUTHORITY/VISITLONDON/SHUTTERSTOCK/VISITBRITAIN/BRITAIN ON VIEW
FAMILIES
• Theatre Tour in English • Exhibition with complimentary audio guide
• Gift Shop • Cafe, bar & restaurant Prices £15 adults £9 children (under 5s free) £41 family ticket (2 adults + up to 3 children)
St Paul’s, Southwark, Mansion House
London Bridge, Blackfriars, Waterloo
Shakespearesglobe.com/exhibition Bankside, London SE1
‘There’s truly something for everybody in north London’s vibrant centre for the Arts and audiences.’ Country Life
Just a few minutes’ walk from King’s Cross and St Pancras stations is the award-winning Kings Place, home to first-class music, art, food and drink. Delight in the excellent acoustics of Hall One, stroll around the galleries and dine in style on the canalside terrace.
Blue Topaz String Trio in session in Hall One, Kings Place | Photo © Nick White
90 York Way London N1 9AG 020 7520 1490
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Tickets from £9.50 online
kingsplace.co.uk
SHOPPING 46 COVENT GARDEN
London’s former fruit-and-veg market is now its prime shopping quarter; browse the arts-and-crafts stalls in the central Apple Market, or dip into the boutiques housed in the old arches. www.coventgarden.london 47 MARYLEBONE HIGH STREET
Tucked away behind Oxford Street, Marylebone is central London’s hidden village, home to one-off designer boutiques, furniture and interiors stores and a clutch of stylish cafés. www.marylebonevillage.com 48 HARRODS
London’s ultimate shopping experience; browse the gourmet delights in the Food Hall, dip into designer outlets and pick up souvenirs to take home in the iconic green-and-gold bags. www.harrods.com 49 CAMDEN MARKET
Half a million people visit each week to browse the myriad stalls that line the high street and Camden Lock; come for designer homewares, vintage clothing, records and jewellery. www.camden-market.org 50 LIBERTY & CARNABY STREET
Stepping through Liberty’s historic doors is like stepping into an Aladdin’s Cave
of beautiful gifts, clothes and furnishings. Outside, nearby Carnaby Street continues the high-energy fashion feel. www.liberty.co.uk 51 CAMDEN PASSAGE, ISLINGTON
Perfect for vintage finds, the cobbles of Camden Passage are home to retro and second-hand shops, one-off boutiques, and an al-fresco antiques market on Wednesdays, Saturdays and Sundays. www.camdenpassageislington.co.uk 52 PORTOBELLO MARKET
Familiar from the movie Notting Hill, Portobello Market is at the heart of one of the city’s hippest quarters, with everything from antiques to vintage and fast fashion. www.portobelloroad.co.uk 53 SELFRIDGES & OXFORD STREET
Dominating London’s prime shopping street, Selfridges offers five-floors of everything from haute couture to high street fashion, along with homewares, accessories and a wonderful food hall. www.selfridges.co.uk 54 SPITALFIELDS MARKET
One of London’s most eclectic markets, the stalls change each day with young designers selling jewellery, clothes and ceramics. Come on Thursdays for antiques and Friday for fashion. www.spitalfields.co.uk
STYLE
PHOTOS: © ALICIA POLLETT/IAN MACPHERSON LONDON/ALAMY/SHUTTERSHOCK
55 JERMYN STREET
A must-visit for stylish gentlemen, Jermyn Street is dotted with bespoke fashion shops, tailors and barbers. www.jermynstreet.net 56 THE OLD TRUMAN BREWERY
An east London industrial site converted into a thriving shopping, media and dining quarter, the Old Truman Brewery brings together some of London’s hippest designers, bartenders and artists. www.trumanbrewery.com Clockwise from top right: The famous Harrods Food Hall; the Liberty department store on Regent Street opened in 1875; Burlington Arcade
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57 KINGS ROAD
The street that defined the Swinging Sixties, the Kings Road is still at the
cutting edge of fashion, with an eclectic mix of vintage, retro and incredibly chic couture shops. 58 BOND STREET
The glitziest street in town, all the A-list brands are here; from Armani to Boodles, with flagship stores by Stella McCartney, Ralph Lauren, Chanel and Fendi. www.bondstreet.co.uk 59 BURLINGTON ARCADE & SAVILE ROW
An elegant covered arcade of shops dating back to 1819, this is the place to come for classic British products. Pair it with a stroll up Savile Row, London’s tailoring hub. www.burlingtonarcade.com LONDON | 2016 GUIDE
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OUTDOOR FUN 60 SERPENTINE LAKE, HYDE PARK
Drift across the 40-acre Serpentine on a rowing boat or take a trip on the UK’s first SolarShuttle, which glides silently across the water, driven by the sun. www.royalparks.org.uk 61 THAMES CLIPPER
Gain a new perspective on the city on a Thames river trip –with a River Roamer ticket you can hop on and off wherever the mood takes you. www.thamesclippers.com 62 ROYAL BOTANIC GARDENS, KEW
The world’s most famous garden, Kew has over 130 hectares to explore – including the Treetop Walkway, vast glasshouses and swathes of flower-filled beds. www.kew.org
nickname from the current London mayor. Tap your bank card on the screen to release the bike and explore the city. www.tfl.gov.uk 67 WALK THE THAMES PATH
Marked out by a blue circular sign with an acorn, the Thames Path links famous sights along the river – from the Houses of Parliament to St Paul’s. www.thames-path.org.uk 68 WATERBUS RIDE
Slow the pace with a 50-minute cruise along the Regent’s Canal. Hop on at pretty Little Venice, before drifting past elegant mansions before arriving at buzzing and happening Camden Market. www.londonwaterbus.com 69 LONDON ZOO
If you like to live adventurously then you'll love this new tree top adventure in the heart of Battersea Park. Swing through the trees on these high-wire obstacle crossings and you'll feel a million miles from the capital. www.goape.co.uk/battersea-park 64 THE LONDON HELICOPTER
See the London skyline from a different angle, soaring above its iconic buildings on a thrilling helicopter tour that follows the River Thames. www.thelondonhelicopter.com 65 HAMPSTEAD HEATH
Swim in the ponds, visit historic Kenwood House and take in the views from Parliament Hill Fields in this popular parkland that spans 790 acres. www.cityoflondon.gov.uk 66 HIRE A BORIS BIKE
There are 10,000 bikes at 700 docking stations around the city, which take their
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There are over 800 species to meet at London Zoo, from gorillas to Galápagos tortoises. Visit Penguin Beach or see the big cats in the Tiger Territory. www.zsl.org 70 REGENT’S PARK OPEN AIR THEATRE
Each summer, Regent’s Park rings to the sound of Shakespearean speeches and loud applause as plays are brought to life at the capital’s best al-fresco theatre. www.openairtheatre.com 71 CHANGING OF THE GUARD
British pageantry at its finest, stand at the gates of Buckingham Palace to watch the exchange of guards, accompanied by brassy music from the Guards Band. www.royal.gov.uk 72 LITTLE VENICE
Spend a peaceful afternoon walking the lattice of canals that gives this area its name, stopping off at one of the waterside pubs and cafés for a lazy lunch. www.visitlondon.com www.britain-magazine.com
PHOTOS: © PETER LANE/OWAIN THOMAS/ALAMY/VISITBRITAIN/PAWEL LIBERA/DAVID JENSEN
63 GO APE TREE TOP ADVENTURE
This page: The Waterlily House in Royal Botanic Gardens, Kew. Facing page, clockwise from top left: Thames Clipper by Canary Wharf; Changing the Guard; Regent's Park Open Air Theatre; see the penguins at London Zoo www.britain-magazine.com
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FOOD & DRINK 73 BRICK LANE
The place in London for an authentic curry. Brick Lane is in the hub of the city’s vibrant Bangladeshi community. www.visitbricklane.org 74 SOUTHBANK CENTRE FOOD MARKET
Fuel up for a walk along the Thames Path with a browse around the artisan food stalls; choose from salads, big burgers or brownies. www.soutbankcentre.co.uk 75 BOROUGH MARKET
Gastro heaven, this former fruit-and-veg market has dozens of tempting stalls selling everything from paella to patisserie. www.boroughmarket.org.uk 76 EATING LONDON TOUR
Combine a walking tour with plenty of stop-offs – choose from the ethnically diverse East End or the delectable Soho. www.eatinglondontours.co.uk 77 EXMOUTH MARKET
A glimpse of historic London, this cobbled street is home to a clutch of fantastic restaurants and a daily (Mon-Fri) al-fresco food market with over 30 stalls. www.exmouth.london 78 RULES
The oldest restaurant in London, Rules oozes glamour, with velvet banquettes, white-gloved waiters and classic British cuisine. Don’t miss the cocktail bar. www.rules.co.uk 79 FORTNUM & MASON
The most luxurious department store in the world, Fortnum & Mason has been the Queen’s grocer for 150 years and its food hall has just had a premium revamp. www.fortnumandmason.com 80 ST CHRISTOPHER’S PLACE
The perfect spot for an al-fresco meal, St Christopher’s Place and neighbouring James Street are lined with eateries. www.stchristophersplace.com 81 BERRY BROS & RUDD
In business since 1698, and still at its same St James's Street address – Berry Bros & Rudd is great for wine tasting and events. www.bbr.com
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This page: The ArcelorMittal Orbit at the Queen Elizabeth Olympic Park. Facing page: Rules, the oldest restaurant in London
ARCHITECTURE 85 RIBA
A landmark transformation of a former power station into a world-class art gallery. The Tate Modern focuses on modern art from 1900 to the present day, with great temporary exhibitions in its vast Turbine Hall. www.tate.org.uk
The home of the Royal Institute of British Architects offers great insight into the UK’s architecture, with exhibitions and events. www.architecture.com
83 THE BARBICAN
Europe’s largest multi-arts venue, it is also a monument to 1960s Brutalist architecture; a sprawling estate built on a vast bomb-damaged site, with several different quarters to explore. www.barbican.org.uk 84 TOWER BRIDGE
Visit the exhibition at the world’s most iconic bridge to discover the engineering behind the design – or step out on to the glass-floored, high-level walkways for a unique view of the River Thames. www.towerbridge.org.uk www.britain-magazine.com
86 THE SHARD
One of the newest – certainly the tallest – additions to London’s skyline, head up to the viewing platform on the 72nd floor for spectacular views in the city. www.the-shard.com 87 CANARY WHARF
London’s most futuristic quarter in the reimagined Docklands area of the city is home to an underground shopping centre and riverside restaurants. www.canarywharf.com 88 THE LONDON EYE
An unmissable part of London’s skyline; the view from 135 metres above the Thames is as dramatic as the
panoramas from the topmost pod. www.londoneye.com 89 THE MONUMENT
The Monument was designed by Sir Christopher Wren to commemorate the Great Fire of London. Climb its 311 steps for great views. www.themonument.info 90 LLOYD’S OF LONDON
Richard Rogers’ landmark inside-out building is still groundbreaking almost 30 years after it opened. Pair with a visit to 30 St Mary Axe, also known as The Gherkin. www.lloyds.com
PHOTOS: © ROBERT HARDING/ALAMY/TONY MURRAY PHOTOGRAPHY
82 TATE MODERN
91 ARCELORMITTAL ORBIT
Remember the London 2012 Olympic Games with a visit to the tallest sculpture in the Olympic Park. Created by Anish Kapoor, the twisted scarlet structure has blistering 360-degree views. www.arcelormittalorbit.com LONDON | 2016 GUIDE
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LITERATURE LOVERS 92 CHARLES DICKENS MUSEUM
97 KEATS HOUSE, HAMPSTEAD
Gain insight into Dickens’ home life in this beautiful restored house, with letters, pictures, first editions and memorabilia all delightfully on display. www.dickensmuseum.com
Home to John Keats from 1818-20, this elegant Regency House houses a collection of artefacts belonging to the poet – Ode to a Nightingale is even said to have been written here. www.cityoflondon.gov.uk/keats
93 HARRY POTTER LONDON BUS TOUR
Clockwise from top left: Poets' Corner; Shakespeare's Globe, The Sherlock Holmes Museum; Ye Olde Cheshire Cheese pub
98 POETS' CORNER, WESTMINSTER ABBEY
Visit the South Transept of the Abbey to see the tombs of some of Britain’s most famous literary names, including Chaucer, Tennyson, Robert Browning and Dickens. www.westminster-abbey.org
94 SHERLOCK HOLMES MUSEUM
Head to 221b Baker Street for a glimpse of how Holmes would have lived; visit his sitting room, laboratory and study and see the room belonging to his faithful aide and sidekick, Dr Watson. www.sherlock-holmes.co.uk
99 DR JOHNSON’S HOUSE
A 300-year-old townhouse that was once home to the man who wrote the first English Dictionary. Samuel Johnson’s house has been restored to its 18th-century style, with many exhibits. www.drjohnsonshouse.org
95 CHARING CROSS ROAD BOOKSHOPS
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Charing Cross Road is heavenly for book lovers, dotted as it is with vintage bookshops, second-hand emporiums and the landmark Foyles store, open to Londoners since 1906, with four miles of shelves. www.foyles.co.uk
100 YE OLDE CHESHIRE CHEESE PUB
96 THE BRITISH LIBRARY
101 SHAKESPEARE’S GLOBE AND TOUR
The largest library in the world has a rolling programme of literary-themed exhibitions as well as permanent works on show including originals of Beowulf, The Lindisfarne Gospels and Jane Eyre. www.bl.uk
A recreation of William Shakespeare’s original theatre, built in 1599. Visit the Globe in this, the 400th anniversary year of the playwright’s death, to watch one of his plays or join a tour. www.shakespearesglobe.com
This 17th-century pub has a network of low-ceilinged rooms which have hosted ‘regulars’ including Mark Twain, Sir Arthur Conan Doyle and Charles Dickens. www.cheshirecheeselondon.co.uk
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PHOTOS: © VISITBRITAIN/BRITAIN ON VIEW/MICHAEL HEFFERNAN/VISITLONDON/GREGORY WRONA/ALAMY/BRITISH TOURIST AUTHORITY
Discover locations from all eight films; see Gringotts bank and the inspiration for 12 Grimmauld Place. Take a snap at Platform 9 3/4¾at King’s Cross and follow in the footsteps of Harry and Hagrid. www.britmovietours.com
“plenty of tasting in the capital’s best chocolate shops”
“Europe’s Top 10 Culinary Guides”
5L
(1.3 gallons)
London has an inexhaustible wealth of attractions and treasures, so whether you want to shop and dine, delve into history and art, or take in the theatre and the city’s architecture, it is certain to deliver an amazing experience. But getting to grips with this huge array of things to do, see and visit will take some planning. Over the next 50 pages, we bring you the practical advice you need to help you make the most of your time. 82
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BUY AN OYSTER CARD
An Oyster allows you to travel on all public transport – Tube, train, bus, DLR and Overground – without the hassle of buying tickets. Simply beep in and out at the card readers at stations, and you will be automatically charged the correct fare, which is a fraction of the face value. Order a card at visitorshop.tfl.gov.uk before you travel or pick one up at a Tube or railway station, top it up, and away you go.
PICK UP A TUBE MAP
Grab an iconic Tube map for free from any station and you’ll discover a vast network that will take you across the capital. Once you familiarise yourself with the colour-coded lines and connecting stations, you’ll be able to navigate with ease. And, these days, the map includes more than just the traditional Tube lines, with Docklands Light Railway and the Overground all represented, unlocking even more of the city. www.britain-magazine.com
PHOTOS: © ISTOCK/PAWEL LIBERA/VISITBRITAIN/BRITAIN ON VIEW
EAT SLEEP DRINK DO
Go to www.tfl.gov.uk for more details on travelling around London
HAIL A CAB
Black cabs are part of London’s DNA and their drivers – famed for knowing every street and route in the sprawling city – can get you anywhere you need to go with the minimum of fuss. Cabs that are free to pick up passengers have their orange light illuminated, so simply put your arm out when you see one to let them know you need a ride. The price will tick over on the meter inside, so you can check the fare as you go. www.britain-magazine.com
JUMP ON A LONDON BUS
Nothing says London more than a red bus, and hopping on and off is a great way to get a feel for the city and its inhabitants. Buses run regularly across the whole city, and routes and destinations are clearly displayed at stops. You can even text or go online at countdown.tfl.gov.uk to find out when a bus is due. Remember, London buses don’t deal with cash, so you’ll need an Oyster, contactless card or travel card to pay.
GET WALKING
There’s no better way to get your bearings than to go on foot and, with so many treasures packed together in the heart of the city, it’s sometimes the fastest way to travel. To keep you on track, you’ll find handy information points at the end of many streets, or just take a leisurely stroll to sample the city’s street-level buzz. You never know what hidden gems you’ll stumble across or what characters you’ll meet along the way. LONDON | 2016 GUIDE
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For For over over 200 200 years years ofof history, history, culture culture and and iconic iconic transport transport design design Visit Visit London London Transport Transport Museum Museum andand shop shop at Covent at Covent Garden Garden Piazza, Piazza, WC2E WC2E 7BB7BB
Open Open daily, daily, under under 18s18s gogo free free
DIARY NOTES The latest events and exhibitions taking place across the capital, plus the books that will help you on your travels
C E L E B R AT E
HM The Queen turns 90
A weekend of celebrations in London will mark the official 90th birthday of HM The Queen on 10-12 June, following festivities in Windsor in May. A service of thanksgiving, attended by the Queen and the Duke of Edinburgh, will be held at St Paul’s Cathedral on Friday 10 June. The next day, the traditional Trooping the Colour ceremony will take place at Horse Guards Parade, and on Sunday 12 June the Patron’s Lunch, a street party on the Mall with a hamper-style meal served at trestle tables, will celebrate the Queen’s support of more than 600 organisations and charities. Most of the 10,000 tickets will be allocated to guests from the charities, but some will be made available for public ballot. Members of the public can also take part in the festivities, with giant screens broadcasting the celebrations in Green Park and St James’s Park. www.royal.gov.uk www.britain-magazine.com
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F E S T I VA L
Summer in the City The City of London Festival returns, from 20 June to 8 July, with everything from classical to cabaret performances in some of the capital’s grandest settings. Enjoy chamber recitals in historic buildings or attend a jazz gig in a skyscraper. www.colf.org
TRAIL
Not so elementary Take on the ‘Napoleon of crime’ in Moriarty’s Game, an immersive London adventure prepared by Sherlock Holmes’s nemesis. Intrepid sleuths will be sent clues by text; each will lead to a location within walking distance where you’ll be asked a question about your surroundings. You may find yourself scrutinising 15th-century art in Mayfair or at a Georgian drinking den, but beware: all is not quite as it seems. The three-hour trail through the capital starts at the Royal Institute of British Architects in Portland Place and runs daily until 31 March. Created by HiddenCity, Moriarty’s Game is inspired by Arthur Conan Doyle’s 1893 novel The Final Problem. Tickets are £60 for a team of up to four. PHOTOS: © SHUTTERSTOCK/ROALD DAHL NOMINEE LTD 2015/ROALD DAHL MUSEUM AND STORY CENTRE/CITY OF LONDON FESTIVAL
www.inthehiddencity.com/moriartysgame
DRINK
Toast of London… The Savoy hotel’s American Bar celebrates London in 2016 with the launch of a new cocktail menu. The 24 cocktails – four for each of the six London boroughs that surround The Savoy – cover everything from iconic landmarks to hidden corners, with each cocktail telling its own story. Driven by American Bar manager Declan McGurk, the menu, which features beautifully hand-drawn illustrations by Joe Wilson, has been crafted over months by head bartender Erik Lorincz and his team. www.fairmont.com/savoy-london/dining/americanbar
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READING CORNER Don't leave home without popping one of these books in your bag DK Eyewitness Top 10 Travel Guide: London (£7.99, Penguin) Showcasing the best places to visit in London, from the British Museum and Buckingham Palace to the capital’s best pubs, this travel guide comes with a handy pull-out map and 13 easy-to-use itineraries. The Story of London: from its Earliest Origins to the Present Day by Stephen Porter (£9.99, Amberley) This concise history, illustrated with colour pictures, traces the rich and dramatic history of Britain’s capital city.
ANNIVERSARY
Delight in Roald Dahl In the words of Willy Wonka, “Many wonderful surprises await you,” during Roald Dahl 100: a year celebrating the centenary of the birth of one of Britain’s best-loved children’s authors. Dahl was born in Wales, where special celebrations include City of the Unexpected, a Cardiff-wide performance produced by National Theatre Wales and Wales Millennium Centre. In London, the Southbank Centre celebrates with the interactive experience The Wondercrump World of Roald Dahl, featuring archival
material from the Roald Dahl Museum and Story Centre. Launching with the Imagine Children’s Festival on 10 February, the exhibition runs until 3 July, before travelling to the Wales Millennium Centre. Look out for other centenary events taking place at the Southbank Centre, which will explore Dahl’s extraordinary life and the surprising inspiration for his most famous characters and stories, such as The BFG and Matilda. www.southbankcentre.co.uk
The Real World of Sherlock by BJ Rahn (£9.99, Amberley) The perfect companion for any fan, this book introduces the men who inspired the iconic character and looks at crime detection in 19th-century London. 1606: William Shakespeare and the Year of Lear by James Shapiro (£20, Faber & Faber) The year in which King Lear was written was fraught with plague and the aftermath of the Gunpowder Plot. Hidden Treasures of London: A Guide to the Capital’s Best-kept Secrets by Michael McNay (£30, Random House) This beautifully illustrated book guides you through more than 400 of London’s lesser-known gems.
www.britain-magazine.com
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Around Town
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VIP
TREATMENT If you want a trip to remember then book a stay in one of London’s most exclusive hotels WORDS SALLY COFFEY
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Around Town
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Eat Sleep Drink Do Left: The stunning Beaufort Bar at The Savoy Below: The Savoy’s bustling entrance Previous page: A Belgravia Suite at The Goring Hotel
PHOTOS: © NIALL CLUTTON/RICHARD BOOTH
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or a lesson in how to provide high-end service in exquisite surroundings without making customers feel inferior or out of place, then look no further than The Savoy. Reopening in 2010 following a major refurbishment – so major the hotel closed for three years – it’s clear that London’s Savoy has lost none of the glitz and glamour that attracted past luminaries such as King Edward VII, Judy Garland, Marilyn Monroe, Charlie Chaplin and Sir Winston Churchill, who lunched here with his Cabinet. Opened in 1889 by theatre impresario Richard D’Oyly Carte, with the profits of his Gilbert and Sullivan operas, The Savoy – which was soon managed by César Ritz (who went on to open The Ritz hotel) – was Britain’s first luxury hotel and boasted innovations of the time such as electric lighting, and constant hot and cold water. Of course over the years the hotel’s reputation for lavish design, luxurious furnishings and exemplary service has surpassed these rather humble beginnings, but it was a revamp in the 1930s that introduced the Art Deco details for which it has become famous, including Kaspar, the hotel’s lucky black cat sculpture, and The Savoy Cocktail Book. These latter two details have been given the nod in recent times. The hotel’s seafood restaurant and grill, Kaspar’s, is named after the aforementioned cat, while the Beaufort Bar, on the site of the former cabaret stage, where the likes of George Gershwin once performed, has a new cocktail menu, with incredible pop-up detailing; fitting for this most theatrical of venues. Cocktail waiters will fix your drinks and tell you a little background on them such as Blue Angel, a delightful homage to Marlene Dietrich, which is served LONDON | 2016 GUIDE
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on her original registration card, and Ol’ Blue Eyes, which gives a nod to Frank Sinatra’s penchant for ordering a full bottle of Jack Daniels, with its own miniature bottle on the side. Once suitably refreshed, saunter over to Kaspar’s Seafood Bar and Grill where the new head chef, Holger Jackisch, has designed a playful menu with a focus on oysters, and smoked and cured fish. For a real show stopper, order the Royal Fruits de Mer Platter, which comes served on a silver dish with lobster, seasonal oysters, Cornish crab and scallops all competing for your attention. After dinner head upstairs to one of the luxurious rooms or suites, all decorated in Edwardian or Art Deco style – guests in suites can even benefit from their own 24-hour butler. Eight years after César Ritz left The Savoy under the shadow of scandal – he was implicated in the disappearance of £3,400 worth of alcohol – he opened the eponymous Ritz in St James’s, a French chateau-style building adorned with lavish Louis XVI furnishings, the London branch of his celebrated Paris establishment. By now Ritz had become renowned for his customer code: “See all without looking; hear all without listening; be attentive without being servile; anticipate without being presumptuous. If a diner complains about a dish or the wine, immediately remove it and replace it, no questions asked.” It’s a mandate that is upheld to this day. The Ritz quickly attracted a fashionable crowd – many of whom had followed him from The Savoy –
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Above: The Ritz Restaurant is considered by many to be the most beautiful hotel dining room in the world Left: Afternoon tea at the Ritz is the height of elegance
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and it was also frequented by Hollywood stars; Charlie Chaplin required 40 policemen to escort him through his fans into the hotel in 1921. There are few settings more elegant than taking afternoon tea in the Ritz’s resplendent Palm Court, while the Rivoli Bar is one of the most decadent places to have a cocktail in the capital. These refined surroundings don’t come without rules, however: The Ritz is famous for its dress codes. Gentlemen are required to wear a jacket and tie for afternoon tea in the Palm Court, and for lunch and dinner in The Ritz Restaurant and Terrace, while sportswear will be frowned upon wherever you may be. Set in the exclusive London district of Belgravia, legend has it there was once a secret tunnel linking The Goring Hotel to nearby Buckingham Palace. Its royal pedigree runs deep – the coronations of King George VI and HM The Queen were celebrated here and the Queen Mother was a regular diner – the restaurant still serves her favourite dish of Eggs Drumkilbo (albeit with the chef’s own twist), a delicious lobster and egg-based delicacy. It came as little surprise then in 2011 when the Duchess of Cambridge (then just Kate Middleton) hired the entire hotel the night before her wedding to Prince William. Two years later, in 2013, her husband’s grandmother gave The Goring a Royal Warrant and, to date, it is the only hotel to have been awarded such status for hospitality. Behind the Edwardian facade lies a luxurious interior that befits its royal clientele, from the sumptuous bar and lounge, where you can enjoy Champagne or the hotel’s famous afternoon tea, (you can even indulge in a game of croquet on the outside lawn), to the Dining Room, which was remodelled by David Linley, the company set up by its namesake, the Queen’s nephew, in 2005.
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Talking of the dining room, the menu by executive chef, Shay Cooper, is fully deserving of its Michelin star. Adding interesting textures and flavours to staple British dishes, Cooper uses the finely sourced ingredients, such as Romney Marsh lamb and Clarence Court hens’ eggs, to create innovative dishes – the Michelin Guide describes it as, “a paean to all things British and the very model of discretion and decorum.” Traditionalists will love the Champagne and cheese trolleys, while The Goring is one of the few London restaurants to still serve roast rib of beef carved from a silver trolley. When it comes to bedding down for the night choose from one of the lovely garden rooms, a deluxe room or (our favourite) a Belgravia Suite. The latter are designed in a refined English style and adorned with rich fabrics;
Above left to right: A footman at The Goring; the Royal Suite sitting room at The Savoy Below: The elegant Stafford London hotel Below right: The Royal Horseguards hotel
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the walls are lined with historic silks from The Gainsborough Silk Company that designer Russell Sage had rewoven to glorious effect. But the most special addition to these suites is the in-room cocktail hour – the height of decadence – served by your footman, who at the push of a button, will arrive to attend to your every need. Originally the home of the aristocratic Spencer family (ancestors of Diana, Princess of Wales), The Stafford London is perhaps best known for having been an officers’ club for American and Canadian soldiers during the Second World War. They made good use of the hotel’s cellar, which acted as a bomb shelter, and its American Bar, which, decorated with wartime memorabilia, is one of the most cherished in London. A year after the end of the war one of the Allies’ most decorated war heroes, Nancy Wake, nicknamed the ‘White Mouse’ by the Nazis, who put a five million franc bounty on her head, came to stay at the hotel for two years. The inspiration for the character of Charlotte Gray in the Sebastian Faulks’ novel of the same name, Nancy was renowned for her love of gin and tonic, which she would drink in the American Bar every day. Today the hotel remembers her with the signature White Mouse cocktail, made with saffron gin shaken with lemon juice, honey and Champagne, garnished with star anise. And so to another former spy haunt, the Royal Horseguards hotel, which adjoins 1 Whitehall Place, home to the National Liberal Club. Once the headquarters of the UK’s Secret Service, the heritage of this building is undeniable, from the Victorian exterior to the hallways and staircases lined with paintings of everyone from Sir Winston Churchill to Queen Victoria. Today a five-star hotel, James Bond fans will not be disappointed as the former home of Sir Mansfield Cumming, the fi rst chief of MI6, has several nods to its former life, including its One Twenty One Two restaurant, which recalls the venue’s former neighbour Scotland Yard and its world-famous telephone number. There are lots of stunning rooms and suites to choose from, many with fabulous views of the Thames, but for a special occasion stay in the Tower Suite, which has a 270-degree view over London. Perfect for keeping an eye out for any rogue spies.
BOOK AHEAD The Savoy www.fairmont.com/savoy-london The Ritz www.theritzlondon.com
PHOTO: © NIALL CLUTTON
The Goring www.thegoring.com The Stafford London www.thestaffordlondon.com The Royal Horseguards www.theroyalhorseguards.com
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ARE YOU BEING SERVED? On your next trip spoil your family and friends with classic gifts from some of London’s most historic shopping parades
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WORDS SALLY COFFEY AND EMILY PRINGLE
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oday, London may be known for its wealth of shops, from luxury department stores to quirky boutiques, but it hasn’t always been quite so well provided for. Indeed before Queen Elizabeth I opened the Royal Exchange in 1571, Londoners had to make do with haggling at the city’s crowded rat-infested markets. The Royal Exchange changed all this. The brainchild of Sir Thomas Gresham, a merchant and financier who worked for King Edward VI and his half-sisters Queen Mary I and Queen Elizabeth I, this open-air piazza near Threadneedle Street in the City of London was created to bring London’s financial trading in from the muddied streets, but also, to turn a profit. Gresham introduced retail businesses, which proved a huge success. The Royal Exchange signalled a change in London’s fortunes and soon other shopping areas began springing up, many of which remain largely unchanged today. If you fancy finding out who invented the bowler hat and where the oldest bespoke shoemakers in the capital are, then follow our guide to some of London’s most historic and exclusive shopping areas, all within easy walking distance of each other, and some of the brands operating there today.
JERMYN STREET
The first street to position itself as home to gentlemen’s fashion, Jermyn Street was named after Henry Jermyn, Earl of St Albans – the man often heralded as being responsible for the development of the West End between the 1660s and 1680s – after the Great Fire of 1666. A fashionable address from the off, many esteemed people have called Jermyn Street, in the heart of upmarket St James’s, home, including Sir Isaac Newton, British Prime Minister William Gladstone, and writer William Makepeace Thackeray. With such wealthy residents, it was just a matter of time before proprietors offering the best wines, cigars, shoes, hats and perfumes moved in. By 1707 Fortnum & Mason, possibly the world’s most luxurious department store, had opened the doors of its first shop, just round the corner on Piccadilly.
Front page: Window of James Lock & Co. Top: Fortnum & Mason. Above: The Royal Exchange
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PHOTOS: © HEMIS/VISITBRITAIN/ERIC NATHAN/MS BRETHERTON/ALAMY
FOSTER & SON London’s oldest bespoke cobblers has been producing high-quality leather shoes, boots, cases, luggage and wallets at 83 Jermyn Street since the 1840s. The shoes are made using traditional handmade wood casts, which give each pair a unique shape, and craftsmen can design shoes to suit any specification. www.foster.co.uk
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FLORIS Floris, at number 89, has been operating since 1730, making it the oldest independent family perfumer in the world. The company is the only appointed perfumer to Her Majesty The Queen, although its first Royal Warrant was actually as “smooth pointed comb maker" to King George IV. Sadly the company no longer makes combs, but it does produce some beautifully crafted shaving accessories and its perfumes and bath oils make wonderful souvenirs – you can even create your own scent. www.florislondon.com
EMMA WILLIS One of the newest additions to Jermyn Street is Emma Willis, which opened up shop in 1999 but stays true to the values of this historic street. Run by its namesake, the shop at number 66 sells luxury shirts, ties, boxer shorts and nightwear using Swiss and West Indian Sea Island Cotton, all made using traditional English shirt-making techniques in the company’s Gloucester factory. You can also have a shirt tailor-made for you. www.emmawillis.com
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SAVILE ROW
In 1733 a new fashionable street was erected, just north of Piccadilly, on the whim of the spendthrift 3rd Earl of Burlington. Named Savile Street after the earl’s wife, Lady Dorothy Savile, it later became known as Savile Row. Attracted by the promise of wealthy clientele, soon whipmakers, tailors and cobblers with such prestige that they commanded Royal Warrants moved into the area around this salubrious street in Mayfair. By the early 1800s, Savile Row had made a name for itself as the place to go for quality bespoke gentleman’s tailoring and house frontages were altered to bring natural light into the tailors’ working areas.
HENRY POOLE & CO (right) Henry Poole’s father, James, had already proven himself a quality tailor by making the uniforms of the officers’ troops at the Battle of Waterloo. Inheriting the company in 1846, Henry opened the main entrance of his father’s tailoring shop at 4-5 Old Burlington Street on the Savile Row side, earning himself the title ‘Founder of Savile Row’ in the process. Later, after creating a bespoke dinner jacket for the Prince of Wales (the future King Edward VII), Henry became credited with having designed the tuxedo (subsequently introduced to Tuxedo Park, New York). www.henrypoole.com
PHOTOS: © WAR ARCHIVE/ADRIAN LOURIE/ALAMY/LOCK HATTERS
GIEVES & HAWKES At 1 Savile Row you’ll see the culmination of two heritage brands, which came together as recently as the 1970s, though they had both held Royal Warrants since the 18th century. Today Gieves & Hawkes provides military dress for the British Royal Navy and the British Army, as well as dressing members of livery, HRH The Duke of Edinburgh and HRH The Prince of Wales. For us mere mortals it also offers a great selection of timeless tailoring and accessories. www.gievesandhawkes.com
JAMES LOCK &CO Though strictly speaking it’s not actually based on Savile Row, hat makers James Lock & Co, founded in 1676, and located nearby at number 6 St James’s Street, is responsible for a Savile Row icon: the bowler hat. Commissioned by farmer William Coke, the hat was designed to protect the heads of his gamekeepers from overhanging branches on his estate. Coke came to the shop to inspect the finished product himself by jumping on it. When it withstood his weight he bought it and the bowler hat is still called the Coke at Lock & Co to this day. www.lockhatters.co.uk
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BURLINGTON ARCADE
At 196 yards long and opening in 1819, Burlington Arcade (left and below left) is perhaps the longest and oldest remaining shopping arcade in Britain. The arcade contains 40 specialist shops, many of which retain their original shop fronts, which focus on antique art, jewellery and silver. The arcade is policed by Britain’s smallest private police force, the Burlington Beadles, who are formally dressed (with top hats by Lock & Co) and extremely knowledgeable about London. In its early days the upper level of the arcade was known for hiding disreputable behaviour and the Beadles were assigned to remove all traces of bad conduct. As a result, to this day whistling, the opening of umbrellas and boisterous behaviour will result in a polite request to refrain. In 1964 Sir Paul McCartney was excused from the whistling ban, when one of the Beadles realised who he was addressing and gave him lifetime exemption from the rule. McCartney, a regular visitor, still greets the Beadles with a brief whistle and a wink, to which the Beadles retort with a slight tilt of their hats.
LINLEY Founded in 1985 by Viscount Linley (the Queen’s nephew), the company is renowned for producing fine British marquetry. The focus is on furniture but Linley also offers some beautifully crafted accessories and gifts. We love its ‘Mini Ben’ place-card holders, handcast in bronze by the Whitechapel Bell Foundry, or the Great Fire Matchbox Sleeve (inset), to mark the 350th anniversary of the Great Fire of London in 2016. www. davidlinley.com
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PHOTOS: © JOHN KELLERMAN/CHRONICLE/ALAMY/FRASERSHOT LIMITED 2014
CROCKETT & JONES Though it only opened its Burlington Arcade shop in 2001, this manufacturer of Goodyear-welted footwear actually began life in 1879 in the shoe capital of England, Northampton. During the Second World War, Crockett & Jones was ordered by the government to switch its production to make military footwear, of which it produced over one million pairs, massively contributing to the war effort. www.crockettandjones.com
Formed in 2006 London RIB Voyages™ was the first speedboat operator ever to set sail on the iconic river Thames. London RIB Voyages has been presented with the “Best New Tourist Attraction: Gold Award” from Visitlondon and been voted Five Stars ***** by Timeout, London.
London RIB Voyages is currently the Number #1 ‘activity to do in London’ on Tripadvisor as a direct result of their valued passengers taking to the web to rave about their experience. We are always raring to go, the engines are revved and awaiting the opportunity to take you, your special guests and loved ones on speed-boating adventures through the greatest city in the world.
London by name, London by nature.
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BOND STREET
SMYTHSON For high-end handbags (below), stationery and purses, pop into Smythson, which has been selling luxury leather goods from its Bond Street store for 125 years. Past customers include Vivien Leigh and Sir Winston Churchill and its most lavish stationery includes 24-carat gilded edges. You can even customise your purchases with monograms. www.smythson.com
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ALEXANDER MCQUEEN The late designer has left a lasting impression on British fashion: from his flagship on Savile Row he dressed the likes of Prince Charles and was named British Designer of the year four times. In 2011, Sarah Burton of Alexander McQueen designed the Duchess of Cambridge's wedding dress. www.alexandermcqueen.com
BOODLES Proprietors of bespoke and fine diamond jewellery since 1798, nothing quite says class like Boodles. The company, which was started in Liverpool and was originally called Boodle & Dunthorne, designed the silver stand for one of the Queen’s wedding cakes but only ventured to London in 2001. The New Bond Street store opened in 2007 and sells exquisite pieces of jewellery, and incredibly it’s still family-run. www.boodles.com
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PHOTOS: © VISITLONDON/MARY EVANS PICTURE LIBRARY/ALAMY
London’s Bond Street (above and right), founded in the early 18th century, has long been a playground for London’s wealthiest and most elegant socialites. The street is divided into two sections. Southern Bond Street is considered the ‘old’ part, having been converted from fields surrounding Clarendon House in the 1720s by Sir Thomas Bond. By the end of the century, Bond Street was a well-established shopping area for London’s upper class. Northern Bond Street was established approximately 14 years after the southern end and despite being the newer addition isn’t quite as revered as its predecessor. Bond Street offers plentiful designer clothing brands, fine jewellers and antique shops and it’s also near to some of the most esteemed hotels and restaurants in London, including Claridge’s and The Ritz.
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WEST END London has one of the finest concentrations of theatres in the world – here is our pick of the best ones to visit in 2016 WORDS NICOLA RAYNER
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here’s certain magic to London’s theatreland. As you get off the tube at Piccadilly Circus at night, head for Shaftesbury Avenue and look up. Beyond the crowds and the hustle and bustle of the busy thoroughfare, the twinkling theatre lights beckon. How thrilling to imagine, on the other side of the lights, everyone from national treasures to first-time chorus members getting ready to “razzle-dazzle ’em” in a long-running musical or the latest new show. The West End, London’s main theatre district, contains roughly 40 venues and, as the name would suggest, is located in the western quarter of central London, around Leicester Square and Covent Garden. That said, a few ‘West End’ theatres can be found outside these confines, while treasures such as the Old Vic and the National Theatre are an easy walk away, on the other side of Waterloo Bridge. Nor should visiting theatre buffs ignore the rich and varied programmes on offer further afield at the likes of The Royal Court in Chelsea, the Almeida in Islington or the leviathan Barbican, which was the scene of last year’s biggest theatrical hit: Sherlock’s Benedict Cumberbatch in Hamlet. Although the history of theatre in Britain stretches back to the Romans, the buildings you’ll find in the West End today are largely Victorian and Edwardian. The modern reconstruction of Shakespeare’s Globe, on the South Bank, has been called the capital’s ‘oldest and youngest’ theatre, but in terms of continuous use no other site in Britain has a longer history than London’s Theatre Royal Drury Lane, where the royal patent, still in the possession of the theatre, was granted by King Charles II to Thomas Killigrew in 1662. The Restoration, from 1660 to the 1680s, was a crucial period for British theatre. After the flourishing of British drama during the reigns of Queen Elizabeth I and King James I – most famously with the plays of William Shakespeare, but also those of Ben Jonson, John Fletcher and Christopher Marlowe – the English Civil War saw closure orders issued on the theatres. Performances continued to be suppressed during the Commonwealth (the only plays the Lord Protector Oliver Cromwell permitted were those acted in schools). However, with the return of the English throne under King Charles II, royal warrants were granted to poet laureate William Davenant and Thomas Killigrew, which gave them a virtual monopoly of the London stage, and heralded a resurgence of drama in London.
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Previous page: London's theatreland is centred around Covent Garden . This picture: The Royal Opera House. Below: The Royal Opera House’s decadent red and gold interior. Top left: Illustration of the Theatre Royal Drury Lane, 1812
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PHOTOS: © VISITBRITAIN/TRISTAN VINCE/VIBRANT PICTURES/ALAMY/ BRITAIN ON VIEW/HERITAGE IMAGE PARTNERSHIP LTD
THE ROYAL OPERA HOUSE
Actor and manager John Rich, known for introducing pantomime to the British stage, bought Davenant’s royal patent with the fortune he had made from his staging of John Gay’s The Beggar’s Opera in 1728, which is said to have “made Rich gay, and Gay rich”. Keen to upstage the nearby Theatre Royal Drury Lane – which, under the terms of a royal patent, was the only other one permitted to perform drama in the capital – Rich commissioned prominent architect Edward Shepherd to build the new theatre, which he did in fine Georgian style. However, it was not to last: the theatre burned down not once, but twice (fire was a significant hazard in the era before electricity). The architect commissioned to build the theatre for a third time was 26-year-old Edward M Barry, the son of Sir Charles Barry, who designed the Palace of
Westminster. With its exquisite neo-Palladian structure, the Royal Opera House reopened in May 1858, though it has been significantly redeveloped. The Floral Hall, with its glass ceiling, where you can eat, drink and on occasion dance, is a beauty, and the red and glittering gold of the auditorium will take your breath away. This year’s highlights include the Royal Opera in a new production of Donizetti’s tragic opera Lucia di Lammermoor, directed by Katie Mitchell from 7 April to 19 May 2016, or, if your inclinations are more terpsichorean, the world premiere of Liam Scarlett’s new full-length ballet, Frankenstein, runs from 4 to 27 May 2016. Both shows will also feature in the theatre’s live cinema season. www.roh.org.uk LONDON | 2016 GUIDE
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THE GARRICK THEATRE
A copy of the portrait of the great 18th-century actor David Garrick, depicted by Thomas Gainsborough, hangs behind the ground-floor bar at the Garrick Theatre. In the painting, the actor, who was lauded for his outstanding Shakespearean performances, stands alongside a bust of the Bard. Famous for the same line of work, Kenneth Branagh opened his inaugural season at the Garrick last year with starry names such as Dame Judi Dench in The Winter’s Tale. His company’s highly successful season at the Garrick continues in 2016, with highlights including Romeo and Juliet, which reunites the leads of Branagh’s celebrated film of Cinderella, Richard Madden and Lily James. The young stars will play the star-crossed lovers, with the legendary Sir Derek Jacobi as Mercutio, under Branagh’s direction from 12 May to 13 August 2016. www.branaghtheatre.com www.nimaxtheatres.com/garrick-theatre
THE DONMAR WAREHOUSE
PHOTOS: © MARCO SECCHI/ALAMY/VISITBRITAIN/PAWEL LIBERA/JOHAN PERSSON
Contained in a former brewery warehouse, don’t let the unglamorous surroundings of the Donmar deceive you. This tiny West End gem, founded in 1960 by Donald Albury and Margot Fonteyn (the theatre’s name derives from an amalgamation of their Christian names), has a capacity of just 251 seats, but offers an exciting range of productions. In 2016, look out for Elegy by Constellations writer Nick Payne, and Brian Friel’s Faith Healer, starring Stephen Dillane and Gina McKee, which runs from 23 June until 20 August. The Donmar has received 43 Olivier Awards since 1992 and often attracts big names to its stage – giving you the chance to get up close and personal with the stars. www.donmarwarehouse.com
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THE LONDON COLISEUM
By the time Frank Matcham was commissioned by Sir Oswald Stoll in 1902 to build the largest and finest ‘people’s palace of entertainment’ of the age, Britain’s most eminent theatre designer had designed and built more than 60 theatres. The London Coliseum, however, was his masterpiece. With 2,359 seats, the widest proscenium arch in London and cantilevered balconies (built out into the auditorium without the need for pillars), it was also one of the first theatres in London to use electric lighting. Like the Royal Opera House, the building, now the home of the English National Opera, is a sight to behold. But there’s another reason to visit in 2016, with Sunset Boulevard, starring Glenn Close, opening on 1 April for a five-week run. Making her West End debut, Close will reprise for UK audiences the role of faded silent-movie star Norma Desmond, which garnered her so many awards in Trevor Nunn’s Broadway production. As many as 400 tickets will be available for each performance for £25 or less. Our advice would be to book speedily. www.eno.org
PRE-AND-POST THEATRE DINING KETTNER’S A Soho institution, Kettner’s has survived four kings and a queen, the Blitz, and ‘several booms and more than a few busts’. Originally a series of four Georgian townhouses, the restaurant was opened in 1867 by Auguste Kettner, chef to Napoleon III, and fast gained a reputation for colourful characters and debauched parties. Oscar Wilde was a regular, as were Agatha Christie and Bing Crosby, and rumour has it that King Edward VII even ordered a secret tunnel to be built between Kettner’s and the Palace Theatre, where his mistress Lillie Langtry was performing. As well as still hosting legendary parties, Kettner’s pre- and post-theatre menu offers two courses for £21.50 or three for £24.50, available from Monday to Saturday, from 5pm to 6.30pm, or 10pm to closing. www.kettners.com J SHEEKEY In the 1890s, stallholder Josef Sheekey was given permission by Lord Salisbury to serve fish and seafood in St Martin’s Court on the condition he supplied meals for Salisbury’s after-theatre dinner parties. Over a century later, his restaurant J Sheekey remains in its discreet location between Charing Cross Road and St Martin’s Lane and specialises in fish, oysters and shellfish to this day – its fish pie is legendary. With a luxurious late-Victorian feel – all wood panelling and atmospheric lighting – J Sheekey and its adjoining Art Deco oyster bar work well as a post-theatre choice, where you might be lucky enough to catch a glimpse of a West End star or two unwinding.… www.j-sheekey.co.uk
On the south side of Waterloo Bridge, the Old Vic is of huge importance both architecturally and as one of Britain’s oldest theatres. Established in 1818 as the Royal Coburg Theatre, the theatre saw no fewer than seven name changes before settling on its current one. This was also the name of a repertory company that was based at the theatre and formed the core of the National Theatre of Great Britain on its formation in 1963, under Laurence Olivier. The National Theatre remained at the Old Vic until new premises on the South Bank opened in 1976. Since then, the theatre has been home to the touring Prospect Theatre Company and, more recently, Hollywood star Kevin Spacey, who was appointed artistic director in 2003 and stepped down in 2015. This year’s highlights include Henrik Ibsen’s The Master Builder, adapted by one of Britain’s most highly regarded playwrights, David Hare, and starring Ralph Fiennes, which runs until 19 March. Another one for the diary is a new production of Harold Pinter’s groundbreaking classic, The Caretaker, which runs from 26 March to 14 May and will be directed by Matthew Warchus, with Timothy Spall, one of Britain’s best-loved character actors, starring.
Above: The Old Vic is one of British theatre’s most important venues and a hotbed of acting talent
SIMPSON’S-IN-THE-STRAND You don’t get much more quintessentially British than Simpson’s-in-the-Strand, one of London’s best-known historic restaurants, which opened in 1828 as a chess club and coffee house. Famous regulars include Charles Dickens, George Bernard Shaw, Benjamin Disraeli, William Gladstone, Sir Arthur Conan Doyle – even his fictional detective, Sherlock Holmes. Roasts are carved at guests’ tables from antique silver-domed trolleys – a practice that came about historically in order to avoid disturbing the chess games. Today’s classics still include roast beef and lamb, and the fixed-price menu Mon-Fri from 5pm to 7pm (except in December) is perfect for theatregoers. Bar snacks are also served in the Art Deco-style Knight’s Bar. www.simpsonsinthestrand.co.uk
PHOTOS: © PAWEL LIBERA/VISITBRITAIN/MATT HUMPHREY
THE OLD VIC
www.oldvictheatre.com
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MUSEUMS & GALLERIES London is home to some of the greatest culture houses in the world – here is our pick of the exhibitions set to wow visitors in 2016 WORDS NICOLA RAYNER
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THE VICTORIA AND ALBERT MUSEUM The world’s foremost museum of art and design, the V&A was founded in 1852 with the profits of the Great Exhibition. Moving to its current site in 1857, it was renamed the Victoria and Albert Museum in 1899 when Queen Victoria laid the foundation stone of new buildings along Exhibition and Cromwell Road. The queen really wanted to call the V&A ‘the Albert Museum’ to mark the support Prince Albert had given to its foundation. Indeed, the whole area just south of Hyde Park, which features the Royal Albert Hall and the Albert Memorial, is known as ‘Albertopolis’ after its supportive royal patron. Many of the museum’s buildings, with their iron frames and glass roofs, were only intended to be semi-permanent exhibition halls, but have survived the
years to become one of the finest groups of Victorian constructions found in Britain. Highlights at the V&A this year include Botticelli Reimagined, from 5 March to 3 July, which assembles works from around the world in the largest Sandro Botticelli exhibition in Britain since 1930. Look out for Undressed: A Brief History of Underwear (16 April 2016 to 12 March 2017) which tells the story of underwear design from the 18th century, with highlights including long cotton drawers worn by Queen Victoria’s mother; an 1842 man’s waist belt; and an 1890s whalebone-and-cotton corset with a waist of less than 19 inches in circumference. www.vam.ac.uk
Previous page: The Royal Academy of Arts. Above left: Venus, 1490s by Botticelli. Below: The Renaissance of Venus, 1877 by Walter Crane
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PHOTOS: © GREG BALFOUR EVANS/ALAMY/BPK/GERNALDEGALERIESMB/JORG P ANDERS/VICTORIA&ALBERTMUSEUM/ 2015 HAYES DAVIDSON/PORTLAND ART MUSEUM/PORTLAND, OREGON/DAVID PARR
THE ROYAL ACADEMY OF ARTS Unique among London’s museums and galleries for being an independent charity, without government funding, the Royal Academy (RA), is run by artists known as Royal Academicians. It all began on a winter’s day in 1768 when architect Sir William Chambers approached King George III with a petition signed by 36 artists and architects, including himself, seeking permission to ‘establish a society for promoting the Arts of Design’. They also proposed a school of design and an annual exhibition, which survives as the Summer Exhibition, the world’s largest open-entry showcase. The RA excels at what it does – between 2010 and 2013, five of the world’s top 10 exhibitions with the highest attendance were held here. One of the most influential British artists of the 20th century, David Hockney, returns to the
Top: The Royal Academy of Arts. Right: Claude Monet’s Nympheas (Waterlilies) 1914-1915. Below: The Summer Exhibition at the RA
Royal Academy from 2 July to 2 October, after the enormous success of his landscapes exhibition of 2012, with 79 portraits and two still lifes. Each work features the sitter with the same chair and vivid blue background and was painted in three days. Meanwhile, Painting the Modern Garden: Monet to Matisse, runs until 20 April 2016, and focuses on Monet, who said he owed his painting “to flowers”, but also features masterpieces by Renoir, Cézanne, Pissarro, Manet, Sargent, Van Gogh and Matisse, among others. The Royal Academy is preparing for its 250th anniversary in 2018 when its historic buildings will be transformed – reigniting the arts. www.royalacademy.org.uk LONDON | 2016 GUIDE
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THE NATIONAL GALLERY
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The new building finally opened in 1838 and has seen various additions that have developed it to the size of around six football pitches today. In the Sainsbury Wing this year, Delacroix and the Rise of Modern Art, which runs from 17 February to 22 May, is the first presentation of the French Revolution’s favourite British painter for 50 years. It will include 60 works from 30 collections, including the Louvre and the Musée d’Orsay in Paris, the J Paul Getty Museum in LA and New York’s Metropolitan Museum of Art. Painters’ Paintings: From Van Dyck to Freud (22 June to 4 September) looks at the works of art famous painters owned, including some of the National Gallery’s own collection, such as Van Dyck’s Titian, Reynolds’ Rembrandt and Lucian Freud’s Corot.
Above and below left: The National Gallery. Below middle: Self Portrait, by Eugène Delacroix, 1837. Below right: Rembrandt Opposite: The Sainsbury Wing PHOTOS: © THE NATIONAL GALLERY LONDON/RMN-GRAND PALAIS (MUSÉE DU LOUVRE)/JEAN-GILLES BERIZZI/TRAVEL PIX COLLECTION/AWL
When Parliament was considering locations for a dedicated building for the National Gallery, it wanted somewhere at the heart of London, which could be accessed by the rich from west London and the poor in the East End. Where better then, than Trafalgar Square? Like the British Museum, the National Gallery began with one person’s collection, that of banker John Julius Angerstein, whose 38 pictures included a large altarpiece by Sebastiano del Piombo, The Raising of Lazarus, which the House of Commons famously paid £57,000 for in April 1824. These sowed the seed of a new national collection ‘for the enjoyment and education of all’. Initially, the paintings were displayed at Angerstein’s home at 100 Pall Mall, but the building was compared unfavourably with other nations’ equivalents, such as the Louvre in Paris, so a more impressive alternative was sought.
www.nationalgallery.org.uk
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Established by an Act of Parliament in 1934, the National Maritime Museum (NMM) in Greenwich includes the Royal Observatory and the 17th-century Queen’s House. The latter celebrates its 400th anniversary this year and will reopen, following a year’s refurbishment, on 4 July. The great architect Inigo Jones was commissioned to build what became the first consciously classical house created in Britain by Queen Anne of Denmark, wife of King James I (see page 42 for more on this historic building). With new displays and colour schemes, the refurbishment will highlight the NMM’s outstanding art collection, with Orazio Gentileschi’s Joseph and Potiphar’s Wife returning to this iconic building for the first time since 1650. This year also marks the 350th anniversary of the Great Fire of London (read about the infamous blaze on page 35), witnessed by brilliant diarist Samuel Pepys who can be found at the heart of the Samuel Pepys: Plague, Fire and Revolution exhibition at the NMM until 28 March. Exploring the period from the execution of King Charles I in 1649 to the Glorious Revolution of 1688, the exhibition covers a dramatic era of British history and features 200 paintings and objects from museums, galleries and collections across Britain. www.rmg.co.uk
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Top: The Great Fire of London. Above: Charles II (1630-1685) John Michael Wright www.britain-magazine.com
PHOTOS: © ROYAL COLLECTION TRUST/ © HER MAJESTY QUEEN ELIZABETH II 2015/WILL PUNTER/NATIONAL MARITIME MUSEUM THE TRUSTEES OF THE BRITISH MUSEUM/DAMIR FABIJANIC/VISITLONDON/
THE NATIONAL MARITIME MUSEUM
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Clockwise, from far left: A Description of the Honor of Windesor, John Norden, 1607; The Merry Wives of Windsor, William Shakespeare, 1910; Shakespeare bust by John Cheere
WINDSOR CASTLE This year marks 400 years since the death of William Shakespeare, who is mostly associated with the Globe theatre and his home town of Stratford-upon-Avon, both of which will be marking the anniversary all year. However, lesser known is the Bard’s strong connection with the town and castle of Windsor, which is less than an hour by train from London. Shakespeare is said to have written his comedy The Merry Wives of Windsor in the town’s Garter Inn (which no longer exists) but he also had strong links
with the royal court; his plays were performed for Queen Elizabeth I and King James I. The latter so loved the theatre that he insisted that Shakespeare’s troupe come under his own patronage, becoming the King’s Men. Shakespeare in the Royal Library, runs at Windsor Castle from 13 February to 1 January 2017 and includes accounts of his performances at Windsor. www.royalcollection.org.uk
EDITOR’S PICK
THE BRITISH MUSEUM Founded in 1753 from the extraordinary collection of Georgian physician Sir Hans Sloane, the British Museum was the first national public museum in the world. British highlights include the Lewis Chessmen pieces and the Sutton Hoo artefacts, but many of the museum’s 8 million treasures come from around the world. School parties flock to see the Egyptian mummies and the famous Rosetta Stone – and don't miss blockbuster exhibition Sunken cities: Egypt’s lost worlds, which runs from 19 May to 27 November. www.britishmuseum.org www.britain-magazine.com
TATE BRITAIN Running at Tate Britain until 10 April, Artist and Empire explores the controversial and much debated subject of the British Empire from the 16th century to the present day. With objects from collections across Britain, including maps, flags, paintings, photographs, sculptures and artefacts, the exhibition features everything from works by artists such as Joshua Reynolds and George Stubbs to Indian miniatures, Maori artefacts and contemporary works by Hew Locke and Sonia Boyce. www.tate.org.uk
NATIONAL PORTRAIT GALLERY When the National Portrait Gallery was established in 1856, its focus was on history more than art. The trustees dictated: “No portrait of any person still living, or deceased less than 10 years, shall be admitted by purchase, donation, or bequest except the reigning Sovereign". This rule changed in 1969 and visitors can now see sitters from Dame Judi Dench to the Duchess of Cambridge. From 11 February to 22 May. Vogue 100: A Century of Style will celebrate photography and fashion by British Vogue since it was founded in 1916. www.npg.org.uk LONDON | 2016 GUIDE
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Quiet London
QUIET LOND 124
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London is hugely exciting but sometimes all we really want is a peaceful spot to unwind. Here are some tranquil places in one of the world's liveliest cities WORDS AND PHOTOS SIOBHAN WALL
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Quiet London
Previous page, left to right: Doctor Johnson's House; Freud Museum. This page: Brompton Cemetery. Facing page: Grapeshots
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nspired by the French situationist Guy Debord and his followers, I started to derivé, or wander through the city of London. Both time and space seemed suspended as I lingered in libraries and ate homemade picnics in parks, I found many London gardens unexpectedly beautiful, and was quietly excited by the new architectural spaces emerging in previously neglected places like Borough and Hackney. I started to photograph places I thought people would be happy going to on their own or with a friend, places that were welcoming rather than intimidating and these formed the basis for my book. There aren’t many residential 18th-century houses still standing in the City of London, but fortunately Dr Johnson’s House is one of the few to survive. Built in 1700, this is where Samuel Johnson lived from 1748 to 1759, and where he wrote the first comprehensive English Dictionary
BUY THE BOOK QUIET LONDON This guide by Siobhan Wall pulls together over 140 quiet places to meet, drink, eat, sleep, read or browse, including atmospheric photos and a short description for each location. You can purchase a copy from Frances Lincoln (www.QuartoKnows.com) for £9.99/$16.95.
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(the museum holds two copies of the first edition). It’s easy to imagine that you are back in the 18th century when walking up the wooden staircase and around the panelled rooms. Although most of the books owned by Sigmund Freud weren’t brought to England when he emigrated and are now found in the American archives, the Freud Museum has a number of titles from his personal library. The museum is fascinating – it’s apparent that the Freuds lived in a surprisingly comfortable home for a family dealing with the dark and often impenetrable workings of the unconscious. The 39-acre Brompton Cemetery opened in 1840 and is still considered one of the finest Victorian metropolitan cemeteries in Britain. Walk up the central avenue to a stone chapel, based on the architecture of St Peter’s Basilica in Rome. Among the formal walkways you will find over 35,000 monuments, many of well-known people, including suffragette Emmeline Pankhurst. Walking down Artillery Passage in London’s East End to the small, old-fashioned wine bar of Grapeshots feels like going back in time and this is a good place to sample a traditional English menu. The cheeseboard includes not only stilton and cheddar but also perl wen (a Welsh brie), and a delicious Shropshire blue. For a more hearty lunch try their Cumberland sausages or fish and chips followed by the treacle tart. A lovely quiet lunch spot. www.britain-magazine.com
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1 THE ENGLISH HOME
STEP INSIDE
With its secret passageways and winding lanes, London is best explored on foot, so why not book on to one of these historic walking tours WORDS MAGENTA FOX
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Delve into the dark secrets of the capital on an evening tour of London, which focuses on the mysterious murderer Jack the Ripper, accompanied by an expert ‘Ripperologist’. Setting off from outside Aldgate East station in London’s East End, you will follow the 1888 foggy death trail of Jack the Ripper in and around Whitechapel, which is certain to leave you trembling in your 21st-century boots. Your journey will stop by the Ten Bells pub where several of Jack the Ripper’s victims supposedly drank before their deaths. Before the night ends, take a moment to mull over the unsolved cases of the five victims – including looking at Victorian photos of the very same streets you have walked down – and leave with a new understanding of 19th-century London. Tours last two hours and cost £10 per person. www.jack-the-ripper-walk.co.uk www.britain-magazine.com
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PHOTOS: © CHRIS DORNEY/MO PEERBACUS/ALAMY
JACK THE RIPPER TOUR
THE GREAT FIRE OF LONDON WALK
THE SHERLOCK HOLMES TOUR
Travel back to the evening of 1 September 1666 and join your guide in Pudding Lane, the site where an unfortunate baker, Thomas Farriner, unwittingly sparked The Great Fire of London into life, 350 years ago. Follow the twists and turns of the blaze as it tore through the western quarter of the city and stop off to absorb eyewitness accounts of the blaze, all the while gaining an understanding of the incredibly rich and chequered past of London. Enjoy the magisterial quality of Sir Christopher Wren’s St Paul’s Cathedral, which rose from the ashes of the Old St Paul’s, gutted in the fire, and take a moment to reflect on the experience and those of your 17th-century counterparts.
Known for his speedy chases around London town, Arthur Conan Doyle’s celebrated detective cuts a path through the capital like no other, and you can follow suit. For book, film and television fans, this is the perfect tour for those thrilled by all things Sherlock. Beginning with a flourish at The Criterion Restaurant (where Conan Doyle set the first meeting between Holmes and Watson), you’ll get to visit many locations that inspired both the author and the sleuth – from gentlemen’s clubs to grand hotels. Finishing at the glorious Somerset House (a popular location for adaptations of the famous stories), you’re sure to feel like a detective in the making.
Tours last 1 hour and 45 minutes and cost £10 per person. www.london-walking-tours.co.uk/great-fire-of-london-walk
Tours last two hours and cost £10 per child and £12 per adult. www.britmovietours.com
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Previous page: Jack the Ripper's victims were found in the impoverished East End's murky passages; the Ten Bells pub was frequented by many of the victims This page, clockwise from top left: The ruin of St Dunstan in the East, which was damaged in the Great Fire; the courtyard of Somerset House; Pudding Lane, where the fire started
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Top right: The Globe playhouse and standing Yard. Bottom: Virginia Woolf's bust in Tavistock Square, Bloomsbury, where the writer lived and wrote
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THE CHARLES DICKENS TOUR
LITERARY BLOOMSBURY
Tours last 1 hour and 45 mins and cost £10 per person. www.dickenslondontours.co.uk
Tours last two hours and cost £10 per person (£8 concessions). www.walks.com
Dickens is one of Britain’s most celebrated writers and it was London that fired his creative energies as well as haunted his imagination, so where better to learn about the man who brought Victorian life to the page so vividly and eloquently? Start on the street where Dickens spent his early and relatively idyllic years before visiting the remains of Marshalsea Prison, where his father was imprisoned for debt, signalling a change in his fortunes. Walk through alleyways, inn yards and riverside paths. Learn of Dickens’ childhood traumas and retreats and visit the places that inspired his often bleak tales, including the steps where Oliver Twist’s Nancy had a fateful meeting.
Why not delve into the literary world of poetry and prose hidden away in London’s delightedly bookish Bloomsbury. Known as the birthplace of the esteemed Bloomsbury Group, with members including Virginia Woolf, this area also has other literary connections, including the house where Sylvia Plath and Ted Hughes spent their wedding night. The walk, which takes place on Tuesday afternoons, incorporates a beautiful view of the British Museum, via one of London’s most stunning squares, and a stroll down the capital’s tiniest street. The guide combines literary, cultural and architectural insight, making for a fascinating day out – especially for book lovers.
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PHOTOS: © JOHN GETTEN2/GREG BALFOUR EVANS/ALAMY/ ISTOCK/SHUTTERSTOCK/PJR TRAVEL
Estate Secrets
THE CHECKLIST
Culture, heritage, shopping, dining and much more – London has something for everyone, and our handy directory covers all the practicalities you’ll need to navigate with ease so you can make the most of your time in the city.
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PHOTOS: © JAMES MCCORMICK/GRANT PRITCHARD/PAWEL LIBERA/PETE SEAWARD/INGRID RAMUSSEN/VISITBRITAIN/BRITAIN ON VIEW
W
e know you’re spoilt for choice in London. From historic landmarks like Big Ben to modern icons such as the London Eye and the city’s wealth of world-famous luxury hotels and buzzing theatreland, it can be dizzying trying to decide where to go, when to go and how to get there. Whether you want to delve into London’s dramatic history, treat yourself to the finest food and shopping, see the stars treading the boards or follow in the footsteps of your literary heroes, the city is sure to deliver experiences you’ll remember for a lifetime. Over the next 32 pages, our directory will guide you on your way to creating some amazing memories.
DIRECTORY 134 ACCOMMODATION 135 ATTRACTIONS 146 MUSEUMS 152 FOOD & DRINK 156 BOOKS & SHOPPING 158 TOURS & EXCURSIONS
Accommodation
Albro House Hotel
155 Sussex Gardens, Hyde Park, London W2 2RY Tel: +44 (0)20 7724 2931/+44 (0)20 7706 8153 Fax: +44 (0)20 7262 2278 E-mail: joe@albrohotel.freeserve.co.uk Website: www.albrohotel.co.uk Located near Hyde Park, public transport and convenient for sightseeing and shopping. Comfortable rooms all with TV, private facilities, tea / coffee maker, phone, radio and hairdryer. Friendly efficient service. Quiet, relaxed atmosphere. Some parking. Families and small groups welcome. Tours booked. Luggage storage. Free WiFi
BEAUFORT HOUSE, CHELSEA www.beauforthousechelsea.com 354 KINGS ROAD, LONDON, SW3 5UZ T: +44 (0)20 7352 2828 E: info@beauforthousechelsea.com
L
ocated in a luxury private members club, the award-winning Beaufort House brasserie is one of Chelsea’s most impressive dining spots. Open to the public, it is the perfect spot for breakfast, all-day brunch or dinner. The brasserie is the ideal for a business lunch or to while away the afternoon with friends. And don’t worry about the children – it has a kids’ menu, colouring books and crayons. When the evening draws in, the glamour of its cocktail bar begins to sparkle. It is one of London’s most fashionable nightspots with cocktails created by some of the best mixologists; choose a classic or a signature cocktail such as the Spiced Pear Mojito or Kings Road Crush.
IN THE ENGLISH MANNER Central London Apartments www.english-manner.com KENSINGTON, CHELSEA, KNIGHTSBRIDGE, NOTTING HILL T: 213-629-1811 (USA); +44 (0)1239 710158 (UK) E: usa@english-manner.com or London@english-manner.com
W
ith so much to see and do in London, why not spend a week or more in a comfortable self-catering house or apartment right in the centre of the capital, instead of a hotel? Come and go as you please, when you please, with the flexibility of having the key to your own front door.
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Rates per person including cooked Low English breakfast & all taxes Season Single rooms from £46 to £58 Twin / double rooms from £34 to £48 Family (3 or 4) per person from £32 to £40
High Season £58 to £84 £50 to £70 £38 to £48
A GOOD VALUE HOTEL IN CENTRAL LONDON
The
Independent Traveller Established 1980
LONDON APARTMENTS
• Central, suburban and commuter areas Fast personal service Tel: +44 (0) 1392 860807 Email:maryandsimon@btinternet.com
Web: www.londonselfcateringapartments.co.uk
Established in 1982, In the English Manner is a leading short-term letting agent in Central London and offers comfortable and luxury apartments for rent in the most exclusive central London locations, including Kensington, Chelsea, Knightsbridge and Notting Hill. Each apartment is personally inspected and carefully chosen based on location and comfort. If your stay in the capital is for less than a week, the company can offer beautiful serviced apartments in Kensington and Mayfair, which can be rented on a daily basis. In the English Manner has been providing apartments for rent in London for more than 30 years, and prides itself on being a serviceorientated business.
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Attractions
KEATS HOUSE www.cityoflondon.gov.uk/keats KEATS HOUSE, 10 KEATS GROVE, LONDON, NW3 2RR T: +44 (0)20 7332 3868 E: keatshouse@cityoflondon.gov.uk
T
he Romantic poet John Keats lived in Keats House from 1818 to 1820. Here, he wrote some of his most memorable work, including Ode to a Nightingale, and fell in love with Fanny Brawne, to whom he was engaged until his death from tuberculosis at the age of just 25. The house is a thriving museum where Keats’ memory lives on through a lively programme of poetry events, special displays and family activities. You can visit his parlour, the garden where he composed much of his poetry, and even the bedroom where his illness was first diagnosed.
OPEN: Summer (1 March to 31 October), Tuesday to Sunday: 1pm to 5pm, also open on Bank Holiday Mondays. Winter (1 November to 28 February), Friday to Sunday: 1pm to 5pm. Closed Christmas Day and Boxing Day, Open 1 and 2 January. Last admission 4.30pm.
BLUEBELL RAILWAY
The Bluebell Railway is easily accessible from London via the main line to East Grinstead and tickets that combine both journeys can be purchased from your station of departure. Hotel packages that include a trip on the Golden Arrow dining train and one night at a carefully chosen local hotel can be arranged by contacting the customer service team. The Bluebell Railway also works with local partners to arrange great family days out in Sussex, including visits to the National Trust’s Arts & Crafts house at Standen, Chailey Windmill & Folk Museum and the historic Horsted Keynes Village. For more information on all products and services please see the website. Please note bookings are required for some trains.
www.bluebell-railway.com SHEFFIELD PARK STATION, EAST SUSSEX T: +44 (0) 1825 720800 E: info@bluebell-railway.co.uk
T
he Bluebell Railway operates between East Grinstead and Sheffield Park stations in Sussex and offers a 22-mile round trip through beautiful open countryside. The journey evokes memories of a bygone age as you travel between the stations behind a steam locomotive. Get off at each of the stations, which are all themed to represent different eras, from the Victorian age of rail travel through to the 1950s. There is a fully licensed restaurant at Sheffield Park Station and on board catering is available on certain trains. Sheffield Park also has a museum with a fantastic collection of locomotives and carriages.
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ADMISSION: Tickets are valid for one year. Adults £6.50; over 65s’ £5.50; concessions (unemployed, students) £4.50. Children (17 and under) can view the house for free. Please see us on Facebook and Twitter.
OPEN: Every weekend and daily April to October. Closed Christmas Day. ADMISSION: Please see website for details on fares.
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Attractions The Laughing Cavalier, Frans Hals, 1624
The Swing, Jean-Honoré Fragonard, 1767
THE WALLACE COLLECTION www.wallacecollection.org HERTFORD HOUSE, MANCHESTER SQUARE, LONDON, W1U 3BN T: +44 (0) 20 7563 9500 E: enquiries@wallacecollection.org
T
he Wallace Collection is a national museum, like some of London’s grandest institutions, but its particular charm lies in its intimacy. Here the works of art are displayed in a lavish and beautifully restored, yet welcoming, former home and the tastes of one extraordinary family of collectors remain preserved. The 5,470 objects include a world-class array of 18th-century French art, much of it of Royal provenance; masterpieces by some of the greatest names in European art, including Titian, Canaletto, Rembrandt, Velázquez and Gainsborough; the finest collection of princely arms and armour in Britain, and superb Medieval and Renaissance objects. Continuing a sympathetic refurbishment programme, the
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Great Gallery recently reopened following a two-year overhaul. Described as “the greatest picture gallery in Europe” by art historian Kenneth Clark, the Great Gallery, with its striking red silk walls, new hang and reconfigured ceiling, which allow the gallery to be filled with natural light, is bound to delight. The Wallace Collection stages free exhibitions, talks and events throughout the year, and houses a beautifully glazed courtyard restaurant. The perfect place to escape the crowds of the West End.
The Great Gallery
OPEN: Daily (except between 24 and 26 December) from 10am to 5pm. ADMISSION: Free of charge. Images reproduced by kind permission of the Trustees of the Wallace Collection.
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Attractions
ELTHAM PALACE www.english-heritage.org.uk/Eltham COURT YARD, ELTHAM, GREENWICH, LONDON, SE9 5QE T: +44 (0)370 333 1181
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mmerse yourself in Art Deco decadence at Eltham Palace, the home of millionaires and a showpiece of cutting-edge 1930s design. Your visit is set during a 1930s house party. You are invited to step into the shoes of one of textile magnates Stephen and Virginia Courtauld’s fascinating group of friends in the opulent rooms of Eltham Palace with all the sights, smells and music as the preparations for a party are underway. Admire the stunning domed entrance hall where the prestigious guests would have gathered to mingle, marvel at the panelled dining room and be in awe of Virginia’s luxurious gold-plated
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bathroom. Try on clothes, browse newspapers, play games on the new multimedia guide and listen to music as you make the home your own. Explore the 19 acres of beautiful gardens. Cross the moat on London’s oldest working bridge, smell the scent in the sunken rose garden and admire the cascade running down the Rock Garden.
OPEN: 25 Mar to 30 Sept, Sun to Thurs, 10am-6pm. 1 Oct to 31 Oct, 10am-5pm. Sun only from 1 Nov to 31 Mar, 10am-4pm. Open every day during Feb and Oct, school holidays and 27 to 31 Dec. ADMISSION: Adult £15; concession £13.50; child (5-15) £9; family (two adults and three children) £39.
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Attractions KENWOOD www.english-heritage.org.uk/Kenwood HAMPSTEAD LANE, HAMPSTEAD, NW3 7JR T: +44 (0)370 333 1181
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magnificent mansion set in tranquil parkland with sweeping views over London, Kenwood is one of the capital’s hidden gems. With free entry, everyone can enjoy a day out exploring this impressive house and its grounds. Discover the vast array of masterpieces hanging in this grand setting, including Turner, Reynolds, Vermeer and Rembrandt. Admire the breathtaking beauty of architect Robert Adam’s library. See the glittering shoe buckles in the Miniatures Room, play with the wooden dolls house in the Housekeeper’s Room and don’t forget to explore outside. With a sham bridge, ancient
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woodland, beautiful sculptures and fabulous dairy, there’s plenty more to see. Enjoy the Robert Adam Library in its original colour scheme, sit on the sofas as you gaze at a Gainsborough and make yourself at home, and explore the house in your own time. No visit to Kenwood is complete without treating yourself to breakfast, lunch or tea in the atmospheric surroundings of the Brew House Cafe or Stewards Room.
OPEN: 25 Mar to 30 Oct, 10am-5pm, 31 Oct to 31 Mar, 10am-4pm. Closed 24-26, 31 Dec and 1 Jan. ADMISSION: Free entry, donations are welcome.
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RANGER’S HOUSE
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www.english-heritage.org.uk/apsleyhouse 149 PICCADILLY, HYDE PARK CORNER, LONDON, W1J 7NT T: +44 (0)20 7499 5676
Attractions
APSLEY HOUSE
www.english-heritage.org.uk/rangershouse CHESTERFIELD WALK, BLACKHEATH, LONDON, SE10 8QX T: +44 (0)20 8294 2548
OPEN: Weds – Sun, 25 March – 30 Oct 11am – 5pm. Open weekends 1 Nov – 31 March 2017 10am – 4pm. ADMISSION: Adult £9.70, Concession £8.70, child £5.80, family £25.20.
n elegant Georgian villa in Greenwich Park which houses The Wernher Collection, a remarkable collection of art amassed by diamond magnate Sir Julius Wernher. OPEN: 25 March-30 Sept. Entry by guided tour only. Tours Sun-Weds 11am & 2pm. Tours last around 1.5 hours. ADMISSION: Adult £7.60; concessions £6.80; children £4.60; family £19.80.
JEWEL TOWER
MARBLE HILL HOUSE
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he home to the Duke of Wellington after his victory over Napoleon, the interior holds a fine art collection and wonderful porcelain and silver.
www.english-heritage.org.uk/Jeweltower ABINGDON STREET, WESTMINSTER, LONDON, SW1P 3JX T: +44 (0)20 7222 2219
www.english-heritage.org.uk/marblehill RICHMOND ROAD, TWICKENHAM, LONDON, TW1 2NL T: +44 (0)20 8892 5115
OPEN: 25 Mar to 30 Sep, 10am-6pm. 1 Oct to 30 Oct , 10am-5pm. 31 Oct to 31 Mar, 10am-4pm, Sat to Sun. ADMISSION: Adult £5.20; concession £4.70; children £3.10; family £13.50.
eautiful Palladian villa set in 66 acres of outstanding riverside parkland near picturesque Richmond, built for Henrietta Howard, mistress of King George II. OPEN: 25 March-30 Oct. Entry by guided tour only. Tours Sat 10.30am & 12pm; Sun 10.30am, 12pm, 2.15pm & 3.30pm. Tours last around 1.5 hours. ADMISSION: Adult £7.30; concessions £6.60; child £4.40; family £19.
WELLINGTON ARCH
THE HOME OF CHARLES DARWIN, DOWN HOUSE
www.english-heritage.org.uk/wellingtonarch APSLEY WAY, HYDE PARK CORNER, LONDON, W1J 7JZ T: +44 (0)20 7930 2726
www.english-heritage.org.uk/darwin LUXTED ROAD, DOWNE, KENT, BR6 7JT T: +44 (0)1689 859119
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estled in the heart of Westminster, Jewel Tower is one of only two buildings to survive from the original medieval palace c1365.
his splendid triumphal arch at Hyde Park Corner was originally designed as a grand approach to Buckingham Palace. Take a lift up to the balconies for views over London’s royal parks and the Houses of Parliament. Enjoy the unique sight of the Household Cavalry passing underneath on their way to the Changing the Guard ceremony and see the spectacular figures on top of the arch – the largest bronze sculpture in western Europe. Discover the colourful history of the arch, including its time as one of London’s smallest police stations. OPEN: Every day throughout the year – see website for details. ADMISSION: Adult £5.20; concessions £4.70; children £3.10; family £13.50.
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own House was the family home of Charles Darwin, the Victorian scientist who revolutionised the world with his ground-breaking theory of evolution. All the family will make intriguing discoveries at this internationally significant site – and enjoy an award-winning exhibition about Darwin’s life and work. Step back in time to the Victorian era, where the rooms at Down House feel as though the family have just left them. In Darwin’s study you’ll find his chair, writing desk and many other personal items standing just as they were when he wrote his revolutionary book On the Origin of Species. OPEN/ADMISSION: Please see website for details.
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Attractions HOUSES OF PARLIAMENT www.parliament.uk/visiting WESTMINSTER, LONDON, SW1A 0AA T: +44 (0) 20 7219 4114 E: visitparliament@parliament.uk
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ascinating audio or fully guided tours of one of London’s most iconic buildings, the Houses of Parliament, offer visitors a unique combination of 1,000 years of history, modern-day politics, and stunning examples of art and architecture. Both tours follow the route taken by the Queen at the State Opening of Parliament; from the Queen’s Robing Room, through the Royal Gallery and Prince’s Chamber, and into the majestic Lords Chamber. This part of the tour offers an impressive bounty of treasures, including elaborate ceilings, many historic paintings and a huge gilded throne canopy.
Tours then move on to Central Lobby, Members’ Lobby and one of the voting lobbies before entering the Commons Chamber; scene of many lively political debates. Passing through St Stephen’s Hall, the tours end in 900-year-old Westminster Hall where Guy Fawkes and King Charles I were tried. As an optional extra, afternoon tea can be taken in elegant surroundings overlooking the Thames.
OPEN: Saturdays throughout the year and most week days during holiday periods such as Christmas, Easter and summer (check website for exact dates). Open 9am to 4.30pm on a timed ticket basis. ADMISSION: Audio tours: adults £18; concessions £15.50. One child’s audio tour free with each paying adult, otherwise £7.20. Guided tours: adults £25; concessions £20; children £10. Afternoon tea: £27.50, in addition to the tour ticket. Concession rates apply to over 60s, students, and UK armed forces. Discounted group rates available.
ST MARTIN-IN-THE-FIELDS www.smitf.org TRAFALGAR SQUARE, LONDON, WC2N 4JJ T: +44 (0) 20 7766 1100 E: info@smitf.org
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t the beautiful St Martin-in-the-Fields visitors are welcome to soak up the stunning Georgian architecture and take in a special event or exhibition. This landmark church has a rich musical heritage and offers three free lunchtime concerts, and four ticketed evening concerts and jazz nights each week. Downstairs, visitors can browse for gifts in the shop, enjoy traditional brass rubbing and savour breakfast, lunch, afternoon tea and dinner at the award-winning Café in the Crypt.
OPEN: The church is open daily and is free to visit. The Café in the Crypt is open every day except Christmas Day. Check website for further details.
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Attractions
CLUEQUEST – THE LIVE ESCAPE GAME www.cluequest.co.uk T: + 44 (0) 777 007 1577 E: escape@cluequest.co.uk
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lueQuest is one of London’s top activities according to TripAdvisor users in 2015. Based on the concept of a live escape game, clueQuest revolves around Mr Q, a puzzleloving, mystery-solving mouse and superspy. Teams have 60 minutes to escape from a locked room that will put your logic, teamwork skills – even your friendship – to the test. The accessible nature of the game makes it suitable both for the young and the young at heart. Since opening in 2013, clueQuest has hosted over 10,000 games for aspiring secret agents from all around the world and it continues to be the activity of choice for birthday surprises, team
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buildings or unique family outings. Teams of 3-5 players can pick between two available missions: ‘PLAN52’, which is Mr Q’s secret office, and ‘Operation BlackSheep’ which unfolds in the lair of Mr Q’s archenemy, the evil scientist Professor BlackSheep. A third mission, ‘Revenge of the Sheep’ a sequel to ‘Operation BlackSheep’, will be available early March 2016.
ADMISSION: Ticket prices start from £20 per person, depending on your team size and whether you are booking a peak or off-peak time. Larger groups can book multiple identical rooms and they can race each other. For more information or to book please visit www.clueQuest.co.uk/booking.
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Attractions HATFIELD HOUSE
PICCADILLY MARKET AT ST JAMES’S CHURCH
www.hatfield-house.co.uk HATFIELD, HERTFORDSHIRE, AL9 5HX T: +44 (0) 1707 287010 E: visitors@hatfield-house.co.uk
www.piccadilly-market.co.uk 197 PICCADILLY, LONDON, W1J 9LL T: +44 (0)20 7292 4864 E: marketmanager@sjp.org.uk
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nly 22 minutes from London Kings Cross by train, Hatfield House is a beautiful historic property set in the Hertfordshire countryside. Built for Robert Cecil, Hatfield, which is over 400 years old, is a fine example of a Jacobean house. The West Garden dates from the early 17th century when Cecil employed John Tradescant the Elder to fill it with plants collected from across Europe. Round you day off at the Coach House Restaurant and Stable Yard Shops. OPEN: 26 March to 30 September 2016. House is open 10am-5.30pm Weds to Sun. The West Garden and Park are also open on Tuesdays. ADMISSION: Adults £16; children (5-15) £8; seniors £15; under-5s free.
ince opening in 1981, Piccadilly Market has established a reputation as a great place to shop for perfect gifts and unusual souvenirs. From Wednesday to Saturday, arts and crafts are sold, while Tuesday offers predominantly antiques and collectables, and Monday specialises in good food. The market is located in the courtyard at St James’s Church in the heart of the West End – just yards from Piccadilly Circus.
CARLYLE’S HOUSE
REGENT’S CANAL WATERBUS
www.nationaltrust.org.uk/carlyleshouse 24 CHEYNE ROW, CHELSEA, LONDON, SW3 5HL T: +44 (0) 20 7352 7087 E: carlyleshouse@nationaltrust.org.uk
INFORMATION: The market is open from Monday to Saturday between 10am and 6.30pm (Monday 3.00pm) throughout the year.
www.londonwaterbus.co.uk LITTLE VENICE W9 /CAMDEN LOCK MARKET NW1 T: +44 (0) 20 7482 2660 E: canaltrips@londonwaterbus.com
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joy for anyone interested in the Victorian period and its leading characters, this Chelsea house was the home of a celebrity couple. Opened to the public in 1895, the house presents an entertaining view of the Carlyles’ illustrious friends, including Charles Dickens, John Ruskin and the Brownings. As William Makepeace Thackeray put it, “Tom Carlyle lives in perfect dignity in a little house in Chelsea with a snuffy Scotch maid to open the door and the best company in England ringing at it.”
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OPEN: 9 March - 30 Oct; 11am - 4.30pm Weds to Sun. Adults £6; children £3; family ticket £15; National Trust members free.
OPEN: Daily service 10am-5pm April to Sept. Reduced service October to March. ADMISSION: From £8.50 adults, £7 children, £7 seniors.
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ravel on traditional canal boats on the historic Regent’s Canal. From the elegant tranquility of Little Venice, through the Maida Hill tunnel, the quiet fringes of Regent’s Park, and London Zoo to the lively bustle of Camden Lock Market. Trips one way, either direction, or return with stopovers for shopping, picnics or with entry to London Zoo at our own gate. No booking required, just turn up and pay on board.
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Attractions
SMALL CAR BIG CITY www.smallcarBIGCITY.com 8 NORTHUMBERLAND AVE., TRAFALGAR SQUARE, LONDON, WC2N 5BY T: +44 (0) 2078 396 737 E: info@smallcarBIGCITY.com
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mallcarBIGCITY is an award-winning company that showcases the hidden gems of London, with a team of knowledgeable private chauffeurs and a fleet of classic Mini Coopers to take you around town. The company believes that visitors to London should feel like locals. Some of the best parts of London are tucked away down quirky back streets; not only is a classic Mini a motoring icon, it is the perfect size to squeeze down them. Since its launch in 2009 the company has taken over 25,000 happy customers around the swinging streets of this ancient city. It has grown to cater for corporate events
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(#FindTheGap), outdoor media advertising campaigns, wedding hire and event hire for television and films. In 2012 it was listed as the ‘No.1 Greatest Thing to do in London’ by Time Out magazine, an accolade it is immensely proud of. Follow the hashtag #Livelikealocal on Twitter/ Instagram to find out how you too can see London from a different perspective.
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Attractions OSTERLEY PARK AND HOUSE www.nationaltrust.org.uk/osterley JERSEY ROAD, ISLEWORTH, LONDON, TW7 4RD T: +44 (0) 20 8232 5050 E: osterley@nationaltrust.org.uk
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suburban palace caught between town and country, Osterley Park and House is one of the last surviving country estates in London. Only a short distance from the big city, you can explore the 18th-century house designed by architect Robert Adam and fashioned for show and entertaining. Elegant pleasure gardens and hundreds of acres of parkland are perfect for a spot of table tennis or whiling away a peaceful afternoon. With our gardens and café now open all year you can snooze in deckchairs on the Temple Lawn in summer and enjoy brisk walks in the vibrant Winter Garden.
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The Stables Café serves light meals and homemade cakes, and has indoor and outdoor seating and free wifi. You can also browse the gift shop, the second-hand bookshop and the plant sales in the Stables courtyard. Picnics are also welcome in the park.
OPEN: The garden and cafe are open all year, 10am to 5pm (dusk if earlier). House and shop open 27 Feb to 30 Oct, 11am to 5pm. Property closed 25 and 26 Dec. ADMISSION: House and gardens: adults £11.50; children £5.80; family £28.80. Garden-only: adults £6.90; children £3.50; family £17.30 (all prices include Gift Aid).
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Attractions
BRIT BOX OFFICE www.britboxoffice.com HYDE PARK CORNER, KNIGHTSBRIDGE , LONDON W1J 7NT UNIT 1008, STABLES MARKET, CHALK FARM ROAD, LONDON NW1 8AH T: Hyde Park +44 (0) 20 3058 5500 Camden +44 (0) 20 3058 5501 E: info@britboxoffice.co.uk
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irstly thank you for choosing London. Brit Box Office is your one stop shop for all your ticketing needs whilst in the Capital. With branches in 2 of the most popular tourist destinations - Hyde Park and Camden Market - what better way to start your London adventure than with us. Brit Box Office will provide you with the best service in town to make sure you get the most of your visit. With access to all Theatre Shows, Music Concerts, Comedy Events, Festivals + more we have it all. We also offer the best discounted tickets and have the very best seats in the house waiting for you.
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London has some of the most famous tourist attractions in the world and we want you to enjoy every one of them. From taking in the sights on an open top bus tour or paying a special visit to the Queen at Buckingham Palace our dedicated team of specialists are on hand to help with your every need. Start planning your trip now at www.britboxoffice.com Follow us on Facebook, Twitter and Instagram to keep up to date with latest offers and promotions.
OPEN: Mon to Sat: 9am-5pm; Sundays: 10-4pm.
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Museums STRAWBERRY HILL
THE HOUSEHOLD CAVALRY MUSEUM
www.strawberryhillhouse.org.uk 268 WALDEGRAVE ROAD, TWICKENHAM, TW1 4ST T: +44 (0)20 8744 1241 E: enquiry@strawberryhillhouse.org.uk
www.householdcavalrymuseum.co.uk HORSE GUARDS, WHITEHALL, LONDON, SW1A 2AX T: +44 (0) 20 7930 3070 E: museum@householdcavalry.co.uk
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fascinating celebration of the British Army’s senior regiments The Life Guards and The Blues and Royals, who uniquely make up The Queen’s mounted bodyguard. Beautifully showcased exhibits, view of working stables, interactive presentations and superb graphics bring to life the history, ceremonial and combat operations of these elite fighting units. Free AV touchscreen guide. Visitors can try on uniform parts.
OPEN: Daily (except 24 to 26 December, 25 March and 24 April) from 10am until 6pm (closes 5pm, November to March). Last entry is 45 minutes before closing. ADMISSION: Adults £7; seniors (60 +), children and students £5; Family Ticket (two adults and two or three children) £18; Groups of 8+ discount of 10%.
© IWM
ared for by the Strawberry Hill Trust, Horace Walpole’s 18th-century architectural masterpiece is renowned as Britain’s finest example of Georgian Gothic revival architecture. Reopened in 2010 after a £9m restoration, visitors can explore this unique heritage site, on the outskirts of London, using a guide book written by Walpole himself, and revel in the award-winning interiors lit up by Renaissance painted glass. OPEN: Self-guided visits available March-Nov; 1.40pm-4pm Mon, Tues & Weds, 12pm-4pm Sat & Sun. Closed Thurs & Fri . ADMISSION: Adults £10.80; under 16s free. Other concessions or discounts may apply, see website for details.
FREUD MUSEUM LONDON
CHURCHILL WAR ROOMS
www.freud.org.uk 20 MARESFIELD GARDENS, HAMPSTEAD, LONDON, NW3 5SX T: +44 (0)20 7435 2002 E: info@freud.org.uk
www.iwm.org.uk CLIVE STEPS, KING CHARLES STREET, LONDON SW1A 2AQ T: +44 (0) 20 7930 6961
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tep through the front door of 20 Maresfield Gardens in picturesque Hampstead and enter another world. This world belongs to Sigmund Freud, the founder of psychoanalysis, who came here with his family in 1938 after fleeing Nazi-occupied Vienna. Visit London’s most enchanting historic house museum and discover Freud’s intriguing study, his iconic psychoanalytic couch and his collection of 2,000 antiquities.
OPEN: Throughout the year; 12pm-5pm Weds to Sun. Check website for bank holiday/Christmas openings. ADMISSION: Adults £7; seniors £5; concessions £4; under 12s free.
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iscover the stories hidden beneath the streets of Westminster in Churchill War Rooms. The original Cabinet War Rooms protected the staff and secrets at the heart of Britain’s government during the Second World War. Find out about the people who walked the maze of corridors as London was bombed above them and visit the interactive museum dedicated to the life and legacy of Churchill.
OPEN: Daily 9.30-6pm (closed 24-26 December). ADMISSION: Adult £18; child £9; concession £14.40 (includes 10 per cent voluntary donation). Last admission is one hour before closing.
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Museums
HAM HOUSE www.nationaltrust.org.uk/hamhouse HAM HOUSE, HAM STREET, HAM, RICHMOND, SURREY, TW10 7RS T: +44 (0)20 8940 1950 E: hamhouse@nationaltrust.org.uk
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n the banks of the River Thames, Ham is one of London’s secret treasure houses and one of the grandest Stuart houses in England. With a substantial collection of 17th-century paintings, furniture and textiles, Ham reveals what life looked like during the reigns of Charles I and II. You can learn how later generations protected their heritage by caring for their ancestors’ treasured heirlooms. Outside, there are statues, parterres and avenues to be explored in the formal Cherry Garden, refuge can be sought in the Wilderness and seasonal produce to tempt in the Kitchen Garden.
OPEN: House, 1 Jan to 4 Mar*, 5 Mar to 9 Oct, 10 Oct to 31 Dec*, 12-4pm. Garden, shop and café open all year, 10am-5pm. *The house will be partially open for a specialist guided visit during these months. *Property will close at dusk if earlier. Closed 24 and 25 Dec. Will close in adverse weather if necessary. For more information please visit our website. ADMISSION: Adult, £11.45; child, £5.75; family, £28.60. All prices include voluntary Gift Aid contribution.
THE ROYAL AIR FORCE MUSEUM LONDON www.rafmuseum.org.uk GRAHAME PARK WAY, COLINDALE, LONDON, NW9 5LL T: +44 (0) 20 8205 2266 E: london@rafmuseum.org
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f you’re into flight and technology and love stories about heroes, heroines, explorers and daring deeds then navigate your way to the Royal Air Force Museum London in Colindale where you will find over 105 historic aircraft from the pioneering days of aviation to today’s modern jets and fighters. Opened by HM The Queen in 1972 and situated on the historic site of Hendon’s London Aerodrome in Colindale, this north London museum is the capital’s only attraction to house over 100 aircraft from around the world including some very early aircraft designs through to the latest modern-day jets and military aircraft.
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With free and paid for interactive activities, including a 4D cinema, the museum offers a fabulous day out. Throughout 2016 the museum will host a series of events celebrating its award-winning First World War in the Air exhibition. For further information about the museum please visit the website.
OPEN: Daily from 10am-6pm; last admission is at 5.30pm. The museum is closed on Christmas Eve, Christmas Day, Boxing Day, New Year’s Day. ADMISSION: Free of charge.
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Museums THE GEFFRYE MUSEUM OF THE HOME www.geffrye-museum.org.uk 136 KINGSLAND ROAD, HOXTON, LONDON, E2 8EA T: +44 (0)20 7739 9893 E: info@geffrye-museum.org.uk
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he Geffrye explores the home from 1600 to the present day. Evocative displays of London, middle-class living rooms and gardens illustrate homes and domestic life through the centuries, reflecting changes in society, behaviour, style and taste. The period rooms lead visitors on a walk through time, from 17th century oak furniture and panelling, past muted Georgian elegance and eclectic Victorian style to 20th century modernity and contemporary living. These displays are complemented by a sequence of period gardens and an award-winning walled herb garden which highlight the role of the garden in home life.
Set in beautiful 18th-century almshouses surrounded by gardens, the Geffrye Museum is an oasis in the heart of the city.
OPEN: 10am-5pm; Tues to Sun, closed Mon except bank holidays. Closed Good Friday, 24, 25, 26 Dec and 1 Jan. Gardens open April to Oct. ADMISSION: Free. Special exhibition £5/£3 concessions.
MUSEUM OF BRANDS, PACKAGING AND ADVERTISING www.museumofbrands.com 111-117 LANCASTER ROAD, LONDON, W11 1QT T: +44 (0)20 7908 0880 E: info@museumofbrands.com
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ust around the corner from the world-famous Portobello Road Market stands a treasure trove of retro design and memories. Discover how well-loved brands evolved through their creative use of packaging and advertising – and how we evolved with them. The history of consumer culture is revealed decade by decade in our ‘time tunnel’, from the naive charm of the Victorian era to the sophistication of today. It’s all here: the brands and packs, posters and ads, fads and fashions, toys and games. Evocative and inspiring, it’s a kaleidoscope of images.
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OPEN: Open all year round. Tues to Sat 10am-6pm, Sun 11am-5pm. Closed during the Notting Hill Carnival, 24, 25 and 26 December, New Year’s Day and Mondays except bank holidays. ADMISSION: Adults £7.50; children (7-16) £3; concessions £5.
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Museums
LEIGHTON HOUSE MUSEUM
www.leightonhouse.co.uk 12 HOLLAND PARK ROAD, LONDON, W14 8LZ T: +44 (0) 20 7602 3316 (Mon-Fri); +44 (0) 20 7471 9160 (weekends) E: museums@rbkc.gov.uk
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eighton House Museum is the former home of the Victorian artist Frederic, Lord Leighton (1830-1896) and one of the most remarkable buildings of the 19th century, containing a fascinating collection of paintings and sculpture by Leighton and his contemporaries. Leighton’s ‘private palace of art’ features the extraordinary Arab Hall with its golden dome, intricate mosaics and walls lined with beautiful Islamic tiles. Upstairs, Leighton’s
vast painting studio was one of the sights of London, where the artist and President of the Royal Academy produced many of his masterpieces including the iconic ‘Flaming June’.
OPEN: Daily 10am-5.30pm; closed Tuesdays. For upcoming exhibitions and events please visit the museum’s website.
18 STAFFORD TERRACE www.rbkc.gov.uk/museums 18 STAFFORD TERRACE, KENSINGTON, LONDON W8 7BH T: +44 (0) 207 602 3316 (Monday to Friday); +44 (0) 207 938 1295 (weekends) E: museums@rbkc.gov.uk
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tep back in time and discover the lives of the Sambournes and the world in which they lived. The house is recognised to be the best surviving example of a late Victorian middle-class home in the UK thanks to the contents and interior decoration remaining remarkably preserved from when it was inhabited by the Punch cartoonist Edward Linley Sambourne and his family who lived here from 1875.
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OPEN: Mid-September to mid-June. Open access & guided and costumed tours available (Wednesdays, Saturdays and Sundays). ADMISSION: Adult £7; concession £5. Visit the website to book a tour.
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Museums LONDON TRANSPORT MUSEUM www.ltmuseum.co.uk COVENT GARDEN PIAZZA, LONDON, WC2E 7BB T: +44 (0) 20 7565 7299 E: bookings@ltmuseum.co.uk
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ively exhibitions explore over 200 years of history, revealing fascinating stories about the influence transport has had on London’s society and culture, and the defining role it has played in the evolution of the city’s unique identity. From the days of sedan chairs and horse-drawn carriages and buses, through to the world’s first underground railway and the creation of iconic designs such as the Tube map and transport roundel, London Transport Museum offers fascinating insights into how London works. At the heart of the story are the people that have kept London moving over the centuries, including
pioneers of the Victorian era and the avant-garde designers of the early 20th century. The Museum’s exciting annual programme of events includes tours of disused Underground stations, behind-the-scenes tours of the Museum Depot at Acton in West London, steam trains on the Underground as well as late-night openings, talks and a range of family fun activities.
OPEN: Daily (excluding Christmas Eve, Christmas Day and Boxing Day), Saturday to Thursday 10am to 6pm and Friday 11am to 6pm (last admissions 5.15pm). ADMISSION: Adult admission charged – tickets allow unlimited entry for a whole year. Children aged 17 and under go free.
THE CINEMA MUSEUM www.cinemamuseum.org.uk THE MASTER’S HOUSE, 2 DUGARD WAY (OFF RENFREW ROAD), LONDON SE11 4TH T: +44 (0)20 7840 2200 E: info@cinemamuseum.org.uk
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he Cinema Museum’s fascinating and comprehensive collection encompasses every aspect of going to the pictures, from architecture and fittings of the cinemas themselves to the ephemeral marketing materials that promoted the films.
OPEN: Times by appointment ADMISSION: £10 (£7 concessions).
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Museums
THE ANAESTHESIA MUSEUM www.aagbi.org/heritage 21 PORTLAND PLACE, LONDON, W1B 1PY T: +44 (0)20 7631 1650 E: heritage@aagbi.org
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he Anaesthesia Museum is a unique medical science museum devoted to the history of anaesthesia, resuscitation and pain relief. The earliest object in its collections is a resuscitation set from 1774. Located in the heart of London, near Oxford Circus, the Anaesthesia Museum is part of the Anaesthesia Heritage Centre, which houses a rare book collection, oral history interviews and archive which provide a unique resource for the curious visitor and specialist researchers. The Anaesthesia Museum is also curating a series of four temporary exhibitions honouring the work of doctors
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who gave anaesthesia and pain relief to the wounded during the First World War. The new exhibition in this series, The Riddle of Shock, explores how treatment and understanding of shock developed during the First World War. The exhibition is accompanied by interviews with doctors about their experience of providing treatment in conflict zones in different eras.
OPEN: Weekdays, except public holidays, 10am-4pm (last admission 3.30pm). By appointment. ADMISSION: Free. Group visits may incur a charge, please enquire further.
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Food & Drink CAMELLIA’S TEA HOUSE www.camelliasteahouse.com PLEASE CHECK OUR WEBSITE FOR OUR LATEST LOCATIONS T: +44 (0) 20 7734 9939 E: info@camelliasteahouse.com
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amellia’s Tea House has been born out of a love and passion for tea. It designs and hand-makes most of its teas in-house, including novel herbal infusion blends. With an environment that is relaxing and enjoyable, Camellia’s Tea House is a place where people love the quirky ambience and original tea varieties. Enjoy afternoon tea, which includes delicious cakes, finger sandwiches and succulent scones with strawberry jam and clotted cream, or try a selection of artisan foods, which are ideal for lunch. Camellia’s Tea House is not only a tea room, but also a shop where you can purchase over 100 different blends of
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tea, which are displayed in glass jars and caddies. There’s also a wide selection of teaware from all over the world, natural food and drinks, gifts and homeware to choose from. Camellia’s is also a tea culture hub with its special tea tasting evenings, various musical and other events strongly linked to tea culture. Please check the website for the latest news and and locations. Camellia’s Tea House was voted in the top 10 places for Afternoon Tea in London by Homes and Gardens magazine.
OPEN: Seven days a week, 12pm-7pm.
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Food & Drink
TEA AND TATTLE TEA ROOMS www.apandtea.co.uk 41 GREAT RUSSELL STREET, LONDON, WC1B 3PE T: +44 (0) 7722 192703 E: teaandtattle@googlemail.com
49 Church Street Weybridge • KT13 8DG 01932 830444
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241 Old Brompton Road London • SW5 9HP 020 7835 0050
ea and Tattle is a unique yet traditional tea room that is full of charm. Located opposite the British Museum in Bloomsbury, it is the perfect place to stop off and enjoy a delicious lunch or afternoon tea. You can choose from an exciting assortment of loose leaf teas, fresh coffee, smoothies, sandwiches, pastries, scones, jams and various home-made cakes. The tea room is entered through the family-run book shop and gallery, which was established in 1903.
OPENING TIMES: Tea and Tattle is open Monday to Friday from 9am until 6.30pm. On Saturday it is open from 12pm until 5pm. Reservations welcome.
Lebanese Restaurant & Caterer
meejana.com
RAINFOREST CAFE www.therainforestcafe.co.uk 20 SHAFTESBURY AVENUE, LONDON W1D 7EU T: +44 (0)207 434 3111 E: sales@therainforestcafe.co.uk
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wild place to shop and eat. Experience something extraordinary at the wildest restaurant in town! Situated in the West End in the heart of London’s theatreland, Rainforest Cafe is the perfect venue for a family adventure or for those looking for a dining experience that’s just that bit different. Fill your senses from the moment you enter with the sights and sounds of the Amazon rainforest, from real running waterfalls, trumpeting elephants and tropical thunder to beautiful butterflies and birds, all housed beneath a rich canopy and starscape. It’s the number one dining destination for children,
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who will love the animatronics, interactive floors and tropical fish tanks, as well as the chance to meet our lovable mascot ChaCha the Red Eyed Tree Frog. Rainforest Cafe has an extensive menu of American and international cuisine including specialities such as the Lava Nachos, Wild Wok Noodles, Major Mojo Bones, the Rainforest Classic Steakburger or a 12oz Primal Steak to name a few, not to mention the famous Sparkling Volcano dessert. There’s also a children’s menu and a delicious variety of ‘free from’ options for allergy sufferers. Parties of all sizes are catered for with set menus for groups of 25-plus and special packages for events or schools.
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Food & Drink BOUNDARY www.theboundary.co.uk 2-4 BOUNDARY STREET, SHOREDITCH, LONDON E2 7DD T: +44 (0)20 7729 1051
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he new-format Boundary building includes three restaurants and bars; 12 individually designed guest bedrooms, plus five suites, a beautiful rooftop garden, a small British food store and bakery. While rooted in classic recipes and techniques, the modern French à la carte menu aims to be refined and elegant, relying on the finest premium ingredients (and often the markets most expensive), in their peak condition. The restaurant is famous for its selection of fine wines and has won a number of awards. Ranging from artisan and biodynamic
growers to aristocratic European estates, the list features approximately 850 constantly changing references.
OPEN: Boundary restaurant is open for lunch Tuesday to Friday and Sunday. Dinner Monday to Sunday. Boundary Rooftop is open year round, seven days a week, from midday until late.
CHUCS www.chucsrestaurant.com 30B DOVER STREET, LONDON, W1S 4NB T: +44 (0)20 3763 2013
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hucs Restaurant & Cafe on Dover street is the sister concept to the inspired 1950s swimwear, and men’s fashion label, of the same name, situated next door. A classic Italian, nestled in the heart of Mayfair on Dover Street, Chucs is an intimate, all-day restaurant, with traditional, Italian décor, and the highest service standards, within just a minute’s walk from London’s premier shopping streets.
OPEN: Monday - Friday 7.30am - 11.30pm, Saturday - 9.30am - 12am and Sunday - 11am - 4.30pm
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Food & Drink
LE BAB www.eatlebab.com 2ND FLOOR, KINGLY COURT, LONDON W1B 5PW
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his January, Le Bab is set to revive and redefine the kebab with a new restaurant opening in Soho’s Kingly Court. Headed by a kitchen team previously at Le Gavroche, Le Bab aims to drive a ‘kebab renaissance’ in London, reinvigorating kebabs with provenance, seasonality and technique. The setting is a stark departure from traditional kebab houses: modern, relaxed and casual, with a novel cocktail list, curated fine and rare wines and craft beer. The design concentrates on Le Bab’s ethos of placing community at its heart, featuring an open-plan kitchen with
exposed fire-pit grill, at the back of the restaurant there is an emerald green leather banquette, allowing room for tables of up to 14 – perfect for sampling the large sharing kebabs the kitchen will offer.
OPEN: 7 days a week, from 12-3.30pm and 6pm-12am
LES DEUX SALONS www.lesdeuxsalons.com 40-42 WILLIAM IV STREET, LONDON WC2N 4DD T: +44 (0)20 7420 2050
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ecently acquired by Prescott & Conran and extensively refurbished, Les Deux Salons features a French restaurant and private dining room on the first floor, while the ground floor features an all-day café, bistro, bar, épicerie and cave à vin. The food is based on classic regional French cooking, borrowing a few recipes from the annals of cuisine bourgeoise, reflecting the great bistros and brasseries of Paris with a modern touch. We aim to provide a happy combination of good food and interesting wines at modest prices. We want our service to be
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professional and efficient, as well as welcoming, hopefully adding to a pleasant ambiance. We’ve set out to create an informal and attractive space with a variety of elements providing many different reasons to visit.
OPEN: Monday-Friday 7.30am-12.30am, Saturday 9am-12.30am and Sunday 9am-11pm
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Books & Shopping LOOP KNITTING www.loopknitting.com 15 CAMDEN PASSAGE, ISLINGTON, LONDON, N1 8EA T: +44 (0)20 7288 1160 E: shop@loopknitting.com
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oop is a treasure trove of the best kind. With lots of eye-candy for crafters, it has been repeatedly voted the best knitting shop in London. It sources a vast range of incredible yarns from all over the world, along with handmade and vintage haberdashery. Its specialty is natural and hand-dyed yarns from artisan dyers, and Loop is the European flagship shop for Brooklyn Tweed and Quince & Co. It also stocks Madelinetosh yarns in over 100 colours. Basics are also available. Loop has a huge variety of buttons and ribbons, books and handmade items made from independent designers working
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in textiles such as Sophie Digard, Julie Arkell and Nathalie Lete. It also offers a wide range of classes from beginner’s knitting and crochet through to master classes taught by visiting teachers from around the world, which are scheduled throughout the year. Each Thursday, from 5.30pm to 7.30pm, it has a KnitNight where you are welcome to go along and knit. No booking is needed. Gift vouchers are also available, and Loop ships all over the world.
OPEN: 11am-6pm Tues to Wed and Fri to Sat, 11am-7.30pm Thurs, noon-5pm Sun. Closed Mon.
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Books & Shopping
P U B L I S H I N G
A spectacular collection from medieval times to today along with much written history of the places, people and subjects featured. 9781445632742 £30 Hardback
THE ATLANTIS BOOKSHOP www.theatlantisbookshop.com 49A MUSEUM STREET, LONDON, WC1A 1LY T: +44 (0) 20 7405 2120 E: atlantis@theatlantisbookshop.com Facebook - The Atlantis Bookshop and on Twitter @AtlantisShop
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ituated in the heart of literary Bloomsbury, The Atlantis Bookshop is just moments away from the British Museum. A family-run business for more than 90 years, The Atlantis Bookshop is a specialist in new and second-hand titles on all aspects of the occult, magic and witchcraft and also carries a selection of over 100 Tarot cards. With its long history and old-world charm, The Atlantis Bookshop is well worth a visit, so you too can become part of the living history of Magic.
Covers eighty houses in central London 9781445647067 £9.99 Paperback
A sideways look at 20th century London 9781445651194 £14.99 Paperback
facebook.com/amberleybooks
OPEN: Monday to Saturday, 10.30am-6pm.
800 years of shaping the city 9781445650296 £20 Hardback @amberleybooks
E. sales@amberley-books.com T. +44 01453 847800
www.amberley-books.com
BESPOKE BRITISH PENS www.bespokebritishpens.co.uk 7 GREENHILL GARDENS, KINGSKERSWELL, NEWTON ABBOT, DEVON T: +44 (0)333 006 4646 E: catalogue@bespokebritishpens.co.uk
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n an age when communication is instantaneous and often impersonal, it may be surprising to find that sales of classic British fountain pens are flourishing. Using traditional techniques and the finest materials, each item from Bespoke British Pens is an example of craftsmanship at its finest, designed to provide a lifetime of writing pleasure. For over 100 years, Conway Stewart pens have been regarded as design classics, with the ‘Winston’, shown here, the finest of them all. Elegant and timeless, they are a distinguished addition to any desk and sure to raise an eyebrow or two in any meeting. For a
@amberleybooks
catalogue or more information call +44 (0)333 006 4646 or email facebook.com/amberleybooks catalogue@bespokebritishpens.co.uk
E. sales@amberley-books.com T. +44 01453 847800
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Tours & Excursions WEMBLEY STADIUM TOURS www.wembleystadium.com/tours WEMBLEY STADIUM, HA9 0WS T: +44 (0) 800 169 9933 E: tours@wembleystadium.com
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CHELSEA FOOTBALL CLUB STADIUM TOURS & MUSEUM www.chelseafc.com/stadium-tours STAMFORD BRIDGE, FULHAM ROAD, LONDON, SW6 1HS T: +44 (0) 871 984 1955 E: tours@chelseafc.com
rom England’s glorious World Cup victory in 1966 to the Live Aid concert in 1985, Barcelona’s UEFA Champions League triumph in 2011 and the annual FA Cup Final, the Wembley Stadium Tour gives you the chance to relive great moments and create some new ones, as you go behind the scenes at the most famous stadium in the world. Guided tours include access to the England Dressing Rooms, Players’ Tunnel and The Royal Box. You’ll also view sporting treasures such as the 1966 World Cup crossbar, the Jules Rimet Trophy and the original flag from London’s 1948 Olympic Games. INFORMATION: Go to www.wembleystadium.com/tours for prices and times.
INFORMATION: The tours take place Monday to Sunday between 10am and 3pm. Admission for adults costs £19; for children £13; for concessions £14. Children under five have free admission.
THAMES RIVER SERVICES
WORLD RUGBY MUSEUM & STADIUM TOURS
www.thamesriverservices.co.uk WESTMINSTER PIER, VICTORIA EMBANKMENT, LONDON, SW1A 2JH T: +44 (0) 20 7930 4097 E: boats@royalriverthames.co.uk
www.englandrugby.com/museum TWICKENHAM STADIUM, TWICKENHAM, TW2 7BA T: -44 (0) 20 8892 8877 E: museum@rfu.com
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OPEN: April to October every 30 minutes from 10am until 4pm with two extra trips at 4.30 and 5pm during June, July and August. November to March every 40 minutes from 10.20pm until 3.30pm. January and February last trip at 3pm.
OPEN: All year round; Tues to Sun. Check website for details.
hames River Services provide all year sightseeing tours from Westminster to Greenwich and the Thames Barrier (Barrier is seasonal April to October). We operate a variety of boats ranging from the modern Sarpedon to the more traditional Hollywood. There’s lots to see at Greenwich including The Royal Naval College the Queen’s House, The National Maritime Museum and the Cutty Sark.
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his unmissable tour of Stamford Bridge, home of the incredible Chelsea Football Club, is a fun, informative and completely unforgettable experience, enjoyed by sports fans of all ages from all over the world. The fully-guided tour will take you behind the scenes of one of the world’s greatest football teams, giving you access to areas normally exclusively reserved for players and officials.
f you enjoyed the Rugby World Cup 2015, why not relive the excitement with a visit to Twickenham Stadium in 2016? On a behind-the-scenes guided tour learn how a ‘Cabbage Patch’ became the world’s most famous rugby stadium. From the first international in 1910 to hosting the spectacular World Cup, Twickenham has cemented its reputation as rugby’s greatest stage. Highlights include the royal box, the England dressing room, tunnel and the view from pitch side. In the World Rugby Museum explore the origins and evolution of the global game.
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Tours & Excursions
CARQUEST RENTALS www.carquest-rentals.com 34 ALDERSHOT ROAD, GUILDFORD, SURREY, GU2 8AF T: +44 (0) 1444 471289 E: info@carquest-rentals.com
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arquest Rentals is the only way to hire a car: the service is bespoke and personal, providing customers with both cars and minibuses. Carquest offers a fast, easy and professional service meaning you will be driving away in under 15 minutes with no queues, no shuttles and no fuss. Operating out of Heathrow, Gatwick and other London airports on request, cars are available seven days a week. Choose from small economy cars to prestige Mercedes E-Classes or Toyota Land Cruisers, all at competitive rates.
WESTWAYS CARRIAGE HORSES
www.westwayscarriagehorses.co.uk T: +44 (0) 20 8572 3155 E: info@westwayscarriagehorses.co.uk
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xperience the romance of a bygone era travelling in one of our horse-drawn carriages with family and friends. Book a carriage driven by your own professional coachman for up to 2.5 hours at any time of day for that special occasion in the West End. The possibilities are endless: a trip to the theatre, the London Eye or a relaxed lamplight carriage ride through the Royal Parks. Carriages can be open-topped or enclosed and are available at short notice.
OPEN: Monday to Friday 8am to 6pm; Saturday 8am to 1pm.
David West is a member of the Professional Carriage Masters Association (PCMA) . The route taken can change, and at certain times is dependent on road closures for special events and occasions.
TEA TRAIL LONDON
PARKERS RENT A CAR
teatrail.london T: +44 (0)20 8291 8721 E: web@horniman.ac.uk
www.parkers-group.co.uk T: +44 (0) 1444 413 672 E: hire@parkers-group.co.uk
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ea Trail London celebrates Britain’s best-loved beverage, tea. Three unique trails bring out the historic stories of tea in a variety of fascinating London venues including museums, shops and tea houses. Each trail has a different focus, allowing you to explore and discover a range of sites and objects – from ‘meeting’ Earl Grey and seeing the home of the duchess who ‘invented’ afternoon tea, to sampling tea flavours from around the world.
OPEN: Trail routes free online, venue opening times vary, all details on website.
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ith a fleet of over 100 vehicles, Parkers has the car for you. Our specialist ‘Meet and Greet’ service at Gatwick and Heathrow airports allows you quick, no hassle, car pickup so you can reach your destination faster. With very competitive rates, fully comprehensive insurance, including full AA cover, Parkers is your first stop for your business or holiday car hire. Our vehicles include manuals or automatics, estates, 7-seaters and minibuses. If you’d prefer some extra luxury when you drive around London, ask about our range of prestige cars.
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Tours & Excursions SPENCER HOUSE www.spencerhouse.co.uk 27 ST JAMES’S PLACE, LONDON, SW1A 1NR T: +44 (0)20 7514 1958 E: tours@spencerhouse.co.uk
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ight from its conception, Spencer House was recognised as one of the most ambitious aristocratic private palaces ever built in London and is today the city’s only great 18th-century private palace to survive intact. The house was built from 1756-66 for John, 1st Earl Spencer, an ancestor of Diana, Princess of Wales (1961-97). Designed by John Vardy and James ‘Athenian’ Stuart, the house is one of the pioneering examples of neoclassical architecture and marks a turning point in English architectural history from Palladianism to this revived style. Spencer House has regained the full splendour of its late 18th-century appearance, after a painstaking
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10-year restoration undertaken by RIT Capital Partners Plc. Eight state rooms are open to the public for viewing on Sundays, and are available for private and corporate entertaining during the rest of the week. These magnificently restored rooms were amongst the first neoclassical interiors in Europe. Vardy’s Palm Room, with its spectacular screen of gilded palm trees and arched fronds, is a unique Palladian set piece, while the elegant mural decorations of Stuart’s Painted Room reflect the 18th-century fascination with classical Greece and Rome. OPEN: Every Sunday (expect during January and August) 10.30am-5.45pm (last tour 4.45pm). ADMISSION: Adults £12; concessions £10.
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Tours & Excursions
Battersea Park Children’s Zoo... who will you see?
MARGI DAVIS BA www.privatetourguideinlondon.co.uk T: +44 (0) 7746 556 214 E: md_blackbrook@hotmail.co.uk
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visit to London is a very special event. London is a big city and its cultural and art-related centres are also extensive. To see the most important exhibits and to learn the facts and background associated with them you could not do better than to hire a Blue Badge London Guide like me. I am very well acquainted with the history and the drama of the sites that I visit. I am also a member of the Institute of Tourist Guiding and a qualified teacher. My tours are listed and described on my website for you to choose from. I look forward to hearing from you. “A guided tour makes all the difference.�
From cheeky monkeys to leaping lemurs, noisy RWWHUV WR VQXIćLQJ FRDWLV who will you come face to face with?
PLUS
our fun play area for kids of all ages!
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Tel: 020 7924 5826
Battersea Park, Chelsea Bridge Gate Battersea London SW11 4NJ
www.batterseaparkzoo.co.uk we’re passionate about wildlife
GREENWICH ROYAL TOURS www.greenwichroyaltours.com DISCOVER GREENWICH, OLD ROYAL NAVAL COLLEGE, SE10 9NN T: +44 (0)20 8319 2143 E: bookings@greenwichroyaltours.com
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reenwich Royal Tours offers small group guided tours of maritime Greenwich as well as central London. In Greenwich, you can join one of its fun and informative guided walking tours of this World Heritage Site to experience the beautifully restored teaclipper Cutty Sark, Greenwich Royal Observatory and the prime meridian, Old Royal Naval College and its Painted Hall, and the National Maritime Museum. There are four Greenwich tours in total: the Best of Greenwich day tour; the Greenwich Highlights half-day tour, the National Maritime Museum tour and the new Greenwich Food tour.
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Tours run daily and all admission fees to attractions are included in the price. Greenwich Royal Tours now also offers central London tours with a difference including the popular Secret Gardens of London tour, Law in London tour and Shakespeare in London tour. Greenwich Royal Tours only does small groups with all admission fees included. Also on offer for the discriminating traveller is a private tour option – just you and one of the friendly tour guides. Guests really do seem to enjoy the tours, as the TripAdvisor reviews confirm, so book with Greenwich Royal Tours’ easy-to-use website today.
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Tours & Excursions BRITISH HERITAGE CHAUFFEUR TOURS www.bhctours.co.uk T: +44 (0) 1296 620173 E: info@bhctours.co.uk
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ritish Heritage Chauffeur Tours is the UK’s leading private chauffeur tour company, offering personal guided tours of London and the rest of the British Isles for the discerning traveller. Your guide will entertain you with enjoyable journeys filled with fun, culture and gastronomic delights and the company prides itself in ensuring your days spent with them are unforgettable. From the very first contact you make with Pam and the lengths to which she goes to understand your requirements to create your perfect tour, to the small fleet of luxury vehicles and their guides, you are made to feel that your enjoyment, safety and comfort are paramount.
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While Highclere Castle is clearly the most requested day tour due to the worldwide popularity of TV’s Downton Abbey, there are many other fantastic locations to be explored, both in and within easy distance of London, such as Windsor Castle, Blenheim Palace and Waddesdon Manor. Whether you are looking for a unique sightseeing tour of London, a personal guided tour of the UK, or have a particular interest you wish to explore, British Heritage Chauffeur Tours will create a hand-crafted tour just for you. You can go anywhere at any time, you set the pace and you can rest assured you will not be part of a group as the company only provides private chauffeur tours for the discerning.
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It’s London. Under one iconic roof. Fantastic dining, tax-free shopping, awe-inspiring public art and exciting cultural events, all under 150 years of breath-taking architectural history.
Shopping. Dining. Art. Culture. St Pancras is more than a station – it’s a destination.
Find out more at: www.stpancras.com
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@StPancrasInt |
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