BRITAIN 2014 guide

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HUNDREDS OF ATTRACTIONS | STATELY HOMES | CASTLES | MUSEUMS

2014 GUIDE

PLAN YOUR NEXT TRIP

50 ESSENTIAL

PREHISTORIC WONDERS

Cultural heritage in beautiful locations

EXPERIENCES UNFORGETTABLE DAYS OUT AND CITIES WITHIN AN HOUR OF LONDON

LITERARY LANDSCAPES

Places that inspired our famous writers HISTORIC ROYAL PALACES

Visit the homes of kings and queens

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Jersey brims with unforgettable places waiting to be explored. Tranquil places like Elizabeth Castle, perched on a rocky islet in St Aubin’s Bay, the island’s defence for over 400 years. Magnificently preserved places like Mont Orgueil Castle and mysterious places like Neolithic La Hougue Bie, one of Europe’s finest ‘passage graves’. Thought-provoking places such as the award-winning Jersey War Tunnels, which tells the story of the five-year German Occupation and the ever-present remains of coastal fortifications built by Hitler as part of his ‘Atlantic Wall’. Add a mild climate, easy travel by air or sea from the UK and great-value offers, and you’ve discovered Jersey.

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Contents

2014 GUIDE

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Step inside some of our nation's most beautiful cathedrals

The fairytale castle of Sissinghurst and its traditional English garden is a delight

COVER IMAGE: © DAVID NUNUK/VISUALS UNLIMITED/CORBIS/THE NATIONAL TRUST IMAGES

Editor's letter With over 5,000 years of settlement to fall back on, Britain is home to a rich tapestry of attractions, from natural wonders such as Stonehenge (see front cover), to Tudor homes and Roman cities in the impossibly pretty form of World Heritage-listed Bath. We’re also not averse to the occasional quirk or odd tradition. In this guide we aim to bring you a round-up of some of the most essential experiences that you can have in Britain, from unforgettable train journeys to intricately designed cathedrals, fun family days out and day trips within an hour of our capital city. So pour yourself a nice cuppa, put your feet up and enjoy as we take you on a whimsical journey of Britain to fill your head with all sorts of lovely ideas that will inspire your future travels.

Features 06 12 BEST BRITISH EXPERIENCES

Visit one of the Queen’s official homes at Windsor, take a train ride on the West Highland Railway, or take in a Proms concert at the Royal Albert Hall.

14 TOP 10 FAMILY DAYS OUT

Think you can’t keep little ones amused and challenge yourself culturally at the same time? Think again – the Imperial War Museum Duxford and Beaulieu are just two places perfect for big and little kids.

20 MAJESTIC CATHEDRALS

Sally Coffey, Editor

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Come with us on a photographic tour of some of our most ornate cathedrals, from St Paul’s, to Durham, to the pretty interior of Winchester. BRITAIN | THE 2014 GUIDE

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Contents

Features 28 LONDON

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Brighton's Royal Pavilion was designed for the Prince Regent

2014 GUIDE

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Our capital needn’t break the bank if you take advantage of some of our free attractions, plus we bring you some great ideas for day trips within an hour of London.

BRITAIN 2014 Guide is published by The Chelsea Magazine Company Ltd, Jubilee House, 2 Jubilee Place, London SW3 3TQ Tel: 020 7349 3700 Fax: 020 7901 3701 Email: info@britain-magazine.com

46 SOUTHWEST ENGLAND

Editor Sally Coffey Art Editor Rhian Colley Assistant Editor Josephine Price Sub Editor Ben Grafton Designer Alicia Fernandes Publisher Simon Temlett Digital Marketing Coordinator Holly Thacker Digital Product Manager Oliver Morley-Norris

Escape to England’s Riviera, or discover the Cornwall that inspired writer Daphne du Maurier.

56 EASTERN ENGLAND

Norfolk offers the perfect blend of heritage, countryside and wildlife, read our guide to the best way to while away a weekend.

Advertisement Manager Natasha Syed Client Development James Darnborough, Sales Executive Jack Shannon

66 SOUTHEAST ENGLAND

From the ‘dreaming spires’ of Oxford to the undulating hills of Sussex’s South Downs, the southeast of England is splendidly refined.

Managing Director Paul Dobson Deputy Managing Director Steve Ross Commercial Director Vicki Gavin Subscriptions Manager William Delmont

76 THE HEART OF ENGLAND

Printed in England by Wyndeham Heron, Maldon, Essex Production All Points Media

Shakespeare’s England is home to some of our most picturesque and historic towns and villages.

88 NORTHERN ENGLAND

The water world of the Lake District is England’s largest national park and a land best enjoyed by getting out on the water yourself.

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Go behind the scenes at some of Dylan Thomas's favourite havens

96 SCOTLAND

This year is an important one for this region of Britain as the Homecoming Scotland 2014 events take hold. You can also read all about the Isle of Skye, one of Scotland’s loveliest islands.

110 WALES

In 2014 there will be a wave of events to mark the centenary of the birth of Wales’s most famous son, Dylan Thomas. Visit his homeland, a place that fuelled his creativity.

124 NORTHERN IRELAND

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In an ancient land that is evocative of the myths that were spawned here, it’s refreshing to see the rebirth of one of its most historic cities. Wales offers some wonderful options for weekends away

BRITAIN | THE 2014 GUIDE

134 DIRECTORY

Use our regional directory to plan your next trip, whatever part of Britain you choose to explore.

Subscriptions and back issues UK/Rest of World: BRITAIN, Subscriptions Department, 800 Guillat Avenue, Kent Science Park, Sittingbourne, Kent ME9 8GU Tel: 01795 419839 Email: Britain@servicehelpline.co.uk http://britain.subscribeonline.co.uk North America: USA: Britain, PO Box 37518, Boone, IA 50037-0518 Tel: 888-321-6378 (toll free) Email: BTNcustserv@cdsfulfillment.com http://britsubs.com/britain Canada: BRITAIN, 1415 Janette Avenue, Windsor, Ontario N8X 1Z1, Canada Tel: 888-321-6378 (toll free) Email: BTNcustserv@cdsfulfillment.com Australia and New Zealand: BRITAIN, Locked Bag 1239, North Melbourne, VIC 3051, Australia. Tel: 02 8877 0373 Email: britain@data.com.au News distribution USA and Canada: CMG, LLC/155 Village Blvd/3rd Floor/ Princeton, NJ 08540 USA UK and Rest of World: Seymour International Ltd. 2 East Poultry Ave, London EC1A 9PT Tel: 020 7429 4000 Fax: 020 7429 4001 Email: info@seymour.co.uk BRITAIN (ISSN 0019-3143) (USPS 004-335) is published bi-monthly by The Chelsea Magazine Company, Jubilee House, 2 Jubilee Place, London SW3 3TQ , UK Distributed in the US by Circulation Specialists, LLC, 2 Corporate Drive, Suite 945, Shelton, CT 06484 Periodical postage paid at Shelton, CT and additional mailing offices POSTMASTER: Send address changes to BRITAIN, PO Box 37518, Boone, IA 50037-0518 Publications Mail Agreement Number 41599077, 1415 Janette Ave, Windsor, ON N8X 1Z1. Canadian GST Registered Number 834045627 RT0001 © The Chelsea Magazine Company Ltd 2013. All rights reserved. Text and pictures are copyright restricted and must not be reproduced without permission of the publishers The information contained in BRITAIN has been published in good faith and every effort has been made to ensure its accuracy. However, where appropriate, you are strongly advised to check prices, opening times, dates, etc, before making final arrangements. All liability for loss, disappointment, negligence or damage caused by reliance on the information contained within this publication is hereby excluded. The opinions expressed by contributors to BRITAIN are not necessarily those of the publisher or VisitBritain.

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DISCOVER ONE OF THE WORLD’S FINEST HOUSES ENCOUNTER OUR EXTENSIVE ART COLLECTION EXPLORE OUR 300 ACRES OF GLORIOUS GARDENS AND GROUNDS ENJOY LOCALLY SOURCED FOOD FROM OUR RESTAURANT AND COURTYARD TEA ROOMS EXPERIENCE THE ISLE OF BUTE, AN ANCIENT STRONGHOLD OF SCOTTISH KINGS EXTEND YOUR VISIT AND STAY IN ONE OF OUR CHARMING SELF-CATERING PROPERTIES Visit this wondrous gothic structure and its labyrinth of gardens and you won’t fail to be impressed. Mount Stuart boasts a majestic marble hall, an awe-inspiring chapel and unspeakably rich reception rooms. Just 90 minutes from Glasgow with frequent rail and ferry services daily. Please see website for detailed opening times.

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12 OF THE BEST BRITISH EXPERIENCES

1 WALK ALONG HADRIAN’S WALL Built by Roman Emperor Hadrian from AD122 this iconic wall was erected to defend his empire against the ‘barbarians' of northern Britain. Now a World Heritage Site, the 73-mile wall stretches from Bowness-on-Solway on the Cumbrian coast to Wallsend near Newcastle upon Tyne, snaking through some of Britain's most unspoiled and beautiful countryside. A firm favourite with walkers, any section offers spectacular vistas. But if you’re

feeling up to it it's well worth attempting to follow the whole length of the wall via the Hadrian's Wall Path National Trail over a number of days. The wall is punctuated not only by hills, valleys, rivers and great expanses of rugged green plains, but also by museums such as that at Vindolanda, a Roman fort and one of the world's most important archaeological sites. www.visithadrianswall.co.uk


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TOUR THE QUEEN’S HOME AT WINDSOR CASTLE

The splendour of Windsor Castle must be seen to be believed. An official residence of Her Majesty The Queen, it is also the world's oldest inhabited castle, dating back almost 1,000 years. Not only can you tour the beautifully furnished State Apartments, containing all sorts of treasures from the Royal Collection, but you can also visit St George's Chapel, a fully functioning centre of worship and the final resting place of 10 monarchs – including Henry VIII. One of the top attractions is Queen Mary's Dolls' House, a miniature triumph that cannot fail to delight. www.windsor.gov.uk

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Exploring Britain

PHOTOS: © ROGER CLEGG/VISITBRITAIN/JOHN SPAULL/PETER PHIPP/ALAMY/LOOP IMAGES/PAWEL LIBERA

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ENJOY A DAY BY THE SEASIDE AT BLACKPOOL

Holidaymakers have flocked to Blackpool, one of Britain's most famous seaside towns, since 1879, when the magical spectacle of its lights illuminating the resort were first described as ‘artificial sunshine'. With three million visitors each year, Blackpool continues to be enduringly popular – an old-fashioned holiday experience featuring sandcastles, ice cream and fairground rides. The Blackpool Illuminations consist of lasers, neon, fibre optics and three-dimensional lit-up scenes. This year, the Lancashire pleasure resort will be illuminated from 29 August to 9 November, meaning the town will be filled with light long after the nights start to draw in and summer is over. www.visitblackpool.com

IN THE THERMAL SPRING AT BATH 4 RELAX Britain's only natural thermal spa – Thermae Bath Spa – is a truly unique and special place. It was the Romans who discovered Bath's thermal properties and so it's exciting to be able to indulge in the same experience as they would have thousands of years ago. The lovely thing about the spa is that history blends with the contemporary features, giving visitors the promise of the old, with the freshness of the new – the best of both worlds. Visitors can choose to go to the Cross Bath, which is a small pool in a Georgian listed building on the site of the sacred Cross Spring, or the open-air roof-top pool in the New Royal Bath, which has panoramic views of this incredibly pretty city. Both offer wonderfully relaxing experiences. www.thermaebathspa.com www.britain-magazine.com

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RIDE ON THE WEST HIGHLANDS RAILWAY

Often voted the top rail journey in the world, this famous railway line hugs the west coast of Scotland – showcasing the glorious countryside that lies between Glasgow and Fort William, and beyond. The journey takes in Britain's highest and hardest-to-reach train station, Corrour, and travels through breathtaking and varied scenery, skirting lochs and crossing the incredible 21-arch viaduct at Glenfinnan, featured in the Harry Potter films. www.westhighlandline.org.uk


6TAKE A TRIP ON THE LONDON EYE Whether you visit at night, when the city is illuminated by sparkling lights, or in the daytime, when you can see as far as Windsor Castle in clear conditions, the London Eye is an attraction like no other. Each rotation takes 30 minutes, meaning that visitors can really absorb their surroundings – from the Shard to the Palace of Westminster. Private capsules are available for special occasions. www.londoneye.com

PHOTOS: Š ISTOCK/FERAD ZYULKYAROV/CORBIS/CHRISTOPHE BOISVIEUX/VISITBRITAIN

7 PUNT ON THE RIVER CAM

Punting was started by female students of Girton College as a means of showing off their ankles, but these days there is no better way to explore Cambridge. Whether you choose to punt yourself or have a guided tour, you can travel between the quiet village of Grantchester and Jesus Lock. It's a glorious route that takes you around the back of some of the older and more attractive colleges in this famous university city, such as King's and Queens', as well as under Mathematical Bridge. www.visitcambridge.org

8SEE THE SAILING AT COWES WEEK

The largest sailing regatta of its kind in the world, Cowes Week on the Isle of Wight is a highlight of the British summer season, for competitors and 100,000 spectators alike. Founded in 1826, Cowes Week has grown into an extraordinarily glamorous and exciting sporting event, featuring 40 races a day for around 1,000 boats. Cowes is also the perfect destination for first-time sailors, boasting specialist sailing schools all over the harbour. www.aamcowesweek.co.uk

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REDISCOVER SHAKESPEARE IN STRATFORD-UPON-AVON

Shakespeare's birthplace is steeped in the Bard's fascinating history, and is also one of the prettiest places to visit in the UK. Stratford-upon-Avon is home to Shakespeare's wife Anne Hathaway's thatched Tudor farmhouse and gardens where you can experience the surroundings in which he courted his sweetheart. You can also visit his mother Mary Arden's childhood home and see exactly how a farm and kitchen worked in the 1570s. www.visitstratforduponavon.co.uk

PHOTOS: Š ERIC NATHAN//VISITENGLAND/VISITBRITAIN/ CHRISTOPHER MURPHY/LEE BEEL

IN A TRADITIONAL AFTERNOON TEA 10 INDULGE There is nothing more quintessentially British than afternoon tea. The popularity of taking tea in the afternoon was introduced in the mid-19th century, when it was usual to have tea rather than lunch to bridge the long gap between breakfast and dinner. Bettys in Harrogate and York and The Ritz in London do classic spreads, offering sandwiches, scones, clotted cream and mouth-watering cakes. www.bettys.co.uk, www.theritzlondon.com

TO THE TOP OF MOUNT SNOWDON, WALES 11 CLIMB Reaching the top of the highest mountain in the British Isles outside of Scotland is not only an athletic feat, but you will also be rewarded richly with astonishing views of Snowdonia National Park when you reach the summit, 1,085 metres (3,560ft) above sea level. Or catch the train, for the same views and less of a walk. www.visitsnowdonia.info www.britain-magazine.com


12 ENJOY THE PROMS AT THE ROYAL ALBERT HALL The Proms is a British musical institution: an eight-week season of daily orchestral music over the summer months that runs throughout the country, but most famously at the Royal Albert Hall. The name is derived from the word ‘promenade', in reference to the fact that audiences traditionally stood rather than sat. The Proms was the brainchild of Mr Robert Newman, manager of the Queen's Hall in London in the late 19th century, who wanted to educate people about classical music. His first 'Promenade Concert' was held in August 1895, featuring pieces meant to engage and challenge audiences. These days, during

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Prom season, the Royal Albert Hall has live concerts every day, with 1,400 standing spaces available at each. This year the Proms take place between 18 July and 13 September with the spectacular highlight always being The Last Night of the Proms where crowds wave Union Jacks patriotically while singing along to Sir Edward Elgar's Land of Hope and Glory. www.royalalberthall.com

 There are hundreds of wonderful days out to be found all over Britain. For more of our favourites visit the BRITAIN website at www.britain-magazine.com

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TOP 10 Family days From heritage properties, to interactive displays, to the wonders of nature, Britain is brimming with days out for the whole family to enjoy

W

ith our wide, open spaces, rich heritage and sense of adventure, Britain has a whole host of attractions that help bring our history and natural world to life for children. But while it’s important to keep little ones amused (a bored child is not fun for anyone) it’s nice to think that us adults can factor in some fun, too. With this in mind, we’ve compiled our favourite spots for the whole family to enjoy, whether you want to keep spending to a minimum or you simply want to treat the family to an experience they’ll always remember.

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Nationwide Facing page: The Trentham Estate is home to 160 barbary macaques. This page, clockwise from top: The Wookey Hole caves date back millions of years; children get into character at Battle Abbey; prehistoric reminders at Wookey Hole

Unforgettable experiences WOOKEY HOLE CAVES, SOMERSET

PHOTO: © LAYNE KENNEDY/CORBIS

This collection of caves, which dates back millions of years and once housed early cavemen, through to the Celtic people of the Iron Age, is mesmerising. Stand among the stalactites and stalagmites carved by the River Axe and marvel at the clear pools and dramatic rock formations that are hidden within Somerset’s Mendip Hills and which have inspired pagan and Christian folklore. Younger children can explore themed areas such as Pirates of the River Axe, Monster Mill and Fairy Garden. www.wookey.co.uk

WEALD & DOWNLAND OPEN AIR MUSEUM, WEST SUSSEX Visit this piece of living history, where traditional buildings set in a rural landscape tell the story of the lives of people who lived and worked here over a 600-year period. Explore the 50 historic buildings, from the 13th century peasant house, to a 17th century cottage and a pair of mid-Victorian railway workers’ cottages, while authentically dressed staff transport you back to another time. www.wealddown.co.uk

BATTLE ABBEY, EAST SUSSEX

WALK WITH MONKEYS AND FAIRIES, STAFFORDSHIRE

Audio guides bring the blood and gore of the site of one of Britain’s most infamous bloodsheds to life – the 1066 Battle of Hastings, which was immortalised on the Bayeux Tapestry. You can even see the very spot where King Harold is said to have died following fierce fighting against William the Conqueror and his Norman army. Explore the evocative battlefield and abbey to get a sense of this historic encounter, which brought to an end Anglo-Saxon England. www.english-heritage.org.uk

A stately home with a monkey forest in the middle of the English countryside? Surely not. It might seem hard to believe but at the Trentham Estate you can walk with 140 barbary macaques amid 60 acres of woodland and meadows. Listen out as they rustle through the trees. Alternatively, join the Fairy Trail around the gardens: indeed a new fairy has landed in the form of a 1.5-metre-tall statue to celebrate the 10th anniversary of the estate being reopened to the public. www.trentham-monkey-forest.com

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Great for all ages WWT SLIMBRIDGE WETLAND CENTRE, GLOUCESTERSHIRE

IMPERIAL WAR MUSEUM DUXFORD, CAMBRIDGESHIRE In this, the centenary year since the outbreak of World War I, step back in time at the Imperial War Museum Duxford, an airfield used in both the First and Second World Wars and Britain’s largest aviation museum. Five hangars show historic aircraft, such as the legendary Spitfire, Lancaster and the Blackbird spy plane. You can also visit the Battle of Britain exhibition and let little (and big) kids get stuck in at the Land Warfare Hall where you’ll find giant tanks and military trucks. duxford.iwm.org.uk

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NATIONAL MOTOR MUSEUM, BEAULIEU, HAMPSHIRE Set within the grounds of the Beaulieu Estate in the New Forest, where donkeys and ponies roam freely, is this attraction, which fuses the new with the old. Watch as your little ones set eyes on some of the first motorcars created, or let them get behind the wheel of exciting modern models in the World of Top Gear. The museum was founded in 1952 by Edward Douglas-Scott-Montagu, 3rd Baron Montagu of Beaulieu, as a tribute to his father, who was the first person to drive a motor car into the yard of the Houses of Parliament, and who is credited with introducing King Edward VII (then the Prince of Wales) to motoring during the 1890s. www.beaulieu.co.uk This page, clockwise from top: A family take a ride in a vintage car at Beaulieu; The Imperial War Museum Duxford offers lots of opportunities for dressing up; the monorail at Beaulieu. Facing page: The National Motor Museum stands in elaborate grounds www.britain-magazine.com

PHOTOS: © NATROW IMAGES/ALAMY/IWM

This nature reserve has more than one trick up its sleeve and top of them all is Welly Boot Land – after all, who doesn’t like splashing about in muddy puddles? With a channel of water running through the playground, children can create dams, shut sluice gates and take a ride on the magic roundabout to make the water spout rise. Visitors can also meet the resident otter family, take a 4x4 safari or learn about how the centre is trying to reintroduce cranes into the wild. www.wwt.org.uk


Nationwide

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Nationwide

On a shoestring

Facing page: The Natural History Museum. This page, clockwise from top: A Pensioner in his ‘scarlets'; the chapel at Royal Chelsea Hospital; fossils on the Jurassic Coast

PHOTO: © TONY MURRAY PHOTOGRAPHY/THE TRUSTEES OF THE NATURAL HISTORY MUSEUM, LONDON 2014 ALL RIGHTS RESERVED

GO DINOSAUR HUNTING, DORSET The Jurassic Coast in Dorset is the only natural UNESCO World Heritage Site in England and it is truly deserving of its status. Join one of the regular fossil hunts with a reputable local guide for a small fee or simply stroll beaches such as Lyme Regis or Charmouth with your family on the lookout for bonafide fossils, for free. If you’re lucky you may even come across dinosaur footprints, a winning find for any budding paleontologists. Our tip is to ensure that you do your homework before you set off as it pays to know what you’re looking for. jurassiccoast.org

ROYAL CHELSEA HOSPITAL, LONDON Many people wrongly assume that the home of the Chelsea Pensioners is out of bounds to visitors. To the contrary, anyone can stroll the grounds of the hospital, an elegant retirement village for veterans of the British Army. Set up by King Charles II in 1681 to care for those ‘broken by war’ the original building and so called Long Wards, where until recently residents lived, were designed by Sir Christopher Wren and later added to by Sir John Soames. Visit on a Sunday to attend a service held in the chapel, which has an ornate painting of Queen Anne and her 17 perished children, and also watch the weekly procession with the pensioners dressed in their ‘scarlets’. www.chelsea-pensioners.co.uk www.britain-magazine.com

THE NATURAL HISTORY MUSEUM, LONDON Did you know that entry to all museums in Britain is free? Yes that’s right, you pay nothing to visit these heritage buildings that house historic collections unique to Britain and there are few places as inspiring for children than the Natural History Museum. As with many museums, you may have to pay for some temporary exhibitions but permanent exhibits such as the imposing dinosaur that greets you as you enter the Gothic confines of the beautiful museum is gratis, as is the giant replica of the largest animal on Earth – the blue whale. For curious youngsters, a visit to the Cocoon where you can glimpse the working life of the museum’s scientists is very special. See the previously hidden world of scientific research through viewing decks, video, intercom and more than 40 high-tech installations and hands-on activities. www.nhm.ac.uk

 Go to the BRITAIN website at www.britain-magazine.com/familydays for more inspiration on where to take the kids and grandkids. BRITAIN | THE 2014 GUIDE

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THE ENGLISH CATHEDRAL

The interiors of England’s 42 Anglican cathedrals are strikingly different. We examine the design of these majestic buildings with words by John Goodall and photography by Peter Marlow WORDS MARTHA ALEXANDER

WELLS, SOMERSET

Wells takes its name from the spring that gushes from the ground to the east of the present cathedral. Work on the current cathedral began in the 1170s, erected on a site that has enjoyed a rich religious history – a church was first built here in the early 8th century. Today the view down the nave is remarkable for the enormous scissor arches inserted in the 14th century to support the weight of the central tower. “It is very boldly conceived, resulting in an appealing, satisfying relationship,” says historian John Goodall. “The entire interior is very typical of French-inspired 13th-century English architecture – French detail is an English obsession.”

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ST PAUL’S, LONDON

It’s hard to convey the sheer scale of St Paul’s, although it is much smaller than the medieval cathedral it replaced after the Great Fire of London in 1666. Sir Christopher Wren rebuilt the cathedral, and it was completed in 1711. The interior was originally austere, fitting for a cathedral in the capital of a Protestant nation. “All that decoration, apart from the choir stalls, is 20th century,” says Goodall. “Ironically, the detailed baldachin over the high altar makes it look rather like St Peter’s in Rome. Its ornateness would have appalled an 18th-century congregation.”


PORTSMOUTH, HAMPSHIRE

PHOTOS: © ALEX HARE/LOOP IMAGES/SUPERSTOCK/VISITGREENWICH

Portsmouth’s cathedral is largely a 20th-century structure, but the choir is 13th century, and the tower was rebuilt after the English Civil War of 1642 to 1651, making this cathedral a very complicated collection of buildings. “It emulates 17th-century church forms,” says Goodall. “It is a light space dominated by an organ in its modern shutters. It’s beautiful and offers serenity.” The organ was only completed in 2001, and the paintings are by iconic British artist Patrick Caulfield, giving the cathedral a distinctly modern feel.

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ALL PHOTOS: © PETER MARLOW

Architecture

DURHAM, COUNTY DURHAM

One of the most spectacular examples of European Romanesque architecture, the Durham Cathedral that we see today was begun in 1093. This picture, although beautiful, shows the interior artificially lit, something that Goodall believes diminishes the true effect. “You lose the gloom,” he says. “That is not meant to be negative; cathedrals are not historically functional buildings – they were conceived to be beautiful forms. The way in which light falls within them is an important element of their design. In Durham, your eye should be drawn into the darkness as you look along the length of the interior. That is part of its magic.” www.britain-magazine.com

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Greenwich

COVENTRY, WEST MIDLANDS Coventry Cathedral was built between 1956 and 1962 on the site where the medieval church of St Michael was bombed during the Second World War. Its spire remains. The interior is a modern masterpiece. It may look as though there are no windows in the cathedral, but this is because they all face towards the high altar. “Those almost impossibly attenuated columns taper down and are joined to the floor simply by metal bolts,” explains Goodall. “So it actually looks as though those columns float to the ground.”

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Architecture

WINCHESTER, HAMPSHIRE

Winchester Cathedral was founded in the mid-7th century, but work on the present building began in 1079, and was served by a community of Benedictine monks. This image shows the view from the choir westwards down the nave. “This is actually not a coherent building,” says Goodall. “It’s an 11th-century structure constrained in all kinds of ways. The nave has been shortened since the 11th century and this vaulting was thrown over the top in the late 14th century; it’s rich in the detailing that was typical of the time. The vaults have turned into a wonderful star-shaped pattern. The idea of articulating structure for aesthetic effect is at the heart of the Gothic style.”

CATHEDRAL COMPANION

Peter Marlow’s stunning photography is displayed in The English Cathedral; a comprehensive guide to all 42 Anglican cathedrals in England, featuring the interiors and naves of these majestic buildings. Images are accompanied by insights from John Goodall as well as an introduction from the Senior Curator of Photographs at the V&A Museum, Martin Barnes. Published by Merrell, £45. From UK bookshops and www.merrellpublishers.com

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Architecture

CARLISLE, CUMBRIA

In 1133 King Henry I made the recently founded Augustinian monastery in the former Roman city of Carlisle the seat of a new cathedral. Today little survives of the monastic building and the enormous interior is instead typical of northern English architecture of the late 13th century. The stained glass windows and ceiling are both medieval survivals – many monastic church ceilings are barrel-vaulted in timber like this. The spectacular decoration was added in 1856.

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Location

LONDON

The secret city spires, roof-mounted statues of famous figures and forgotten signs and dates on buildings that hint at their origins. The structure of Monument, for instance, built between 1671 and 1677 to commemorate the Great Fire of London, is 61 metres (200ft) tall, the same distance from here to where the fire started on Pudding Lane. Atop the edifice is a flaming urn. Many visitors don’t realise that there’s also a maze of crypts, secret tunnels, catacombs, forgotten tube stations and little known railway lines beneath London’s streets. One such site to visit is the Churchill War Rooms, where the then prime minister and his cabinet sheltered during the Blitz.

PHOTO: ©VISITBRITAIN/MARK THOMASSON

England’s capital is a sprawling metropolis with so many identities that it’s a wonder it doesn’t lose sight of itself. Instead it thrives, evolves and adapts to its growing population with such aplomb that Londoners born and bred in the city still discover hidden spots. Along the Thames are the Houses of Parliament, rebuilt in a gothic style by Charles Barry following a devastating fire in 1834; and the Tower of London, established by William the Conqueror in 1066 and scene of Anne Boleyn’s execution in 1536. The jewel in London’s skyline, though, is Sir Christopher Wren's St Paul’s Cathedral, completed in 1711. One of the best pieces of advice for visitors to London is to look up – you’ll see fine

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HERITAGE FARM PARK

Discover Kent Life where history and family fun sit side by side in beautiful 28 acre grounds. A real working farm, Kent Life showcases and breeds traditional farm animals and the hands-on cuddle corner is always popular with visitors. Open all season with events galore – more than just a day visit! Kent Life, Lock Lane, Sandling, Maidstone, Kent ME14 3AU. Junction 6 on the M20, just off the A229.

Visit us at www.kentlife.org.uk


London

COMPLIMENTS OF THE CAPITAL

There is in London all that life can afford, but if your budget doesn't stretch to tea at The Ritz or tickets to the opera you can still appreciate the very best of the city

ILLUSTRATION: Š DORUS VERWIEL/IMAGEZOO/CORBIS

WORDS CHRIS FAUTLEY

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more unusual timepieces such as a 19th-century decimal clock (100 seconds per minute, 100 minutes per hour, 10 hours per day). It’s only a short walk across the Guildhall yard to the Guildhall Art Gallery, home of the Corporation of London’s art collection – established in 1886 as ‘a collection of art treasures worthy of the capital city’. Works date from the late 17th century onwards, but one piece in particular steals the show: John Singleton Copley’s Defeat of the Floating Batteries at Gibraltar was specially commissioned by the Corporation, and at a jaw-dropping 458 square feet is one of Britain’s largest oil paintings. However, there is more to the gallery than first meets the eye: a sinister secret lies beneath it – a place of death and brutality. Discovered only in 1988, London’s Roman amphitheatre is now fully accessible in the gallery’s basement; it’s one of the capital’s most moody and atmospheric experiences. Aspiring tycoons should next make the short walk to Bartholomew Lane and the Bank of England Museum. Comprehensively telling the story of Clockwise from above: The Worshipful Company of Clockmakers' museum is in the City of London Guildhall; Twinings tea shop is also home to a small museum; Changing the Guard at Buckingham Palace

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the Old Lady of Threadneedle Street (as the bank is fondly nicknamed), there are displays of banknotes – real and forged (the million pound note is a star attraction) – as well as the bank’s charter of 1694. Everyone should handle, and lift (if you can), a real gold ingot. It weighs 13kg. It wouldn’t be right to visit London without partaking of that great British tradition – tea drinking. The people at Twinings shop at 216 Strand have been brewing it here for more than 300 years. Back in 1706, Thomas Twining’s shop was a coffee house, but he had a hunch an interloper – tea – might just

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here are things in London that money can’t buy. Some of these, though, include its finest experiences: the stuff of dreams and breath-snatching memories. It doesn’t take money to enjoy them, because London’s best can be free. There’s a huge amount to see and do that doesn’t cost a penny. Many museums, for example, make no charge for admission – including some of the largest, such as the Science Museum and British Museum. They are fascinating places and justifiably popular but can often seem rather busy – reason enough perhaps to seek out some of their lesser-known, more specialist contemporaries. You don’t exactly have time on your hands at the Clockmakers’ Museum, but you come pretty close. The museum of the Worshipful Company of Clockmakers (a City livery company founded in 1631) is in the City of London Guildhall. Here, there are hundreds of watches as well as clocks and maritime implements on display. They include 17th-century horological masterpieces as well as

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Regent’s Park and St James’s Park during the summer (check if a charge is applicable). London’s Royal Parks vary enormously in style – from relative simplicity to geometric grandiosity – and it costs nothing to use them. Green Park extends to just over 40 acres, its boundary being formed by Constitution Hill, Queen’s Walk and Piccadilly. It is well known for its specimen trees – especially London’s signature tree, the plane. Unusually, there are few flowerbeds and shrubberies, but for all that it is particularly worth visiting in spring when the lawns explode in an ocean of more than 250,000 daffodils. Of 16th-century origin, St James’s Park is London’s oldest royal park. The fairytale view across its willow-fringed lake to the pinnacled turrets and roofs of Buckingham Palace and beyond is unforgettable. St James’s has always been noted for its bird life: an official bird-keeper was appointed during the 19th century, and a bird-keeper’s cottage provided. Both remain to this day.

PHOTOS: © ISTOCK/VISITBRITAIN/BRITAIN ON VIEW/SFL CHOICE/ALAMY

catch on. He was right, for which millions of Britons have reason to be grateful. They still sell tea at number 216 – more than one hundred varieties to be precise – and you can pick it up, smell it or even ask them to make you a brew. There’s also a small museum telling the story of Britain’s favourite beverage. It’s unthinkable to visit London and not take in a good show, but you don’t have to buy the most expensive seats in the house. For music, pageantry and colour, you can’t beat Changing the Guard. Usually held at 11.30am on alternate days (daily, May to July), at Buckingham Palace, it is performed in full ceremonial dress and is accompanied by a Guards band. The ceremony is also held daily at Horse Guards Arch. For more music, City of London churches are renowned for their free lunchtime concerts. In the West End, meanwhile, St Martin-in-the-Fields similarly has a long tradition of hosting such events. Additionally, there are often performances at picturesque bandstands in Hyde Park,

The most celebrated residents are the pelicans, of which there are six. Feeding time is around 2.30pm. Although St James’s was redesigned by John Nash in 1827, it was to be Regent’s Park that really made the architect’s name. As might be expected of something commissioned by the Prince Regent, everything is

Top: The Queen Victoria Memorial seen from Green Park. Above: Regent Park's eye-catching fountain

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London

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Above: Tower Bridge and the City from the Thames. Below: The ornate dome of St Stephen Walbrook church

Stand almost anywhere in London, and the chances are you will be surrounded by fine architecture: young, old, obvious and not-so-obvious. Occasionally, you will have to do as those seeking Wren’s memorial are urged: ‘circumspice’(look all around you). While buildings such as St Paul’s Cathedral charge for admission, you can visit many of London’s smaller churches for free (although donations

are always very welcome). The City’s St Stephen Walbrook is one of Wren’s finest. Engulfed by surrounding development, it is easy to miss, but within is a scene that seems uncannily familiar. Complete with dome, it is considered to have been a dummy run for St Paul’s Cathedral. Other churches worth seeking out include St Bartholomew the Great in West Smithfield (dating from 1123) and St Michael Paternoster Royal

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on a grand scale. Essentially an inner circle within an outer circle, it extends to some 400 acres. The inner circle, now known as Queen Mary’s Garden, is home to more than 30,000 rose bushes. The boating lake, meanwhile, has some 600 waterfowl in residence. There is also a ‘secret garden’, just off the inner circle, comprising several circular enclosures; as its name suggests, most visitors miss it. The park was planned as part of a grandiose neo-classical development featuring crescents, villas and circuses fit for London’s elite. The intention was for the entire scheme to be centred on Piccadilly Circus, but shortage of money meant that Nash never completed it. He did, however, succeed in building some of London’s finest homes – known as the Nash Terraces – around the eastern side of the outer circle. Chester Terrace, for example, has a continuous unbroken facade of 940ft, its frontage periodically embellished with enormous Corinthian columns. Cumberland Terrace is equally eye-catching, adorned with statuary, more Corinthian columns, and friezes. These were homes for the affluent; and they wanted people to know it.

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(also in the City), where fabled Dick Whittington, thrice lord mayor of medieval London, is buried. Each is a little haven of peace, a quality also afforded by London’s Inns of Court – the home of its legal profession. They are noted not only for history and architecture, but also their immaculate gardens. Those at Lincoln’s Inn, Gray’s Inn and Inner Temple – oases of calm in a busy capital – are generally open to the public at lunchtime. If London hasn’t yet pioneered free shopping, you can at least browse for free – and in that respect you can’t beat its markets. Borough Market for food-lovers; Spitalfields covered market for speciality goods (generally

This image and top left: London’s markets are wonderful places to browse. Below: The National Gallery is free to visit

A DAY IN LONDON FOR £10

PHOTOS: © TIMOTHY SMITH/ALAMY/VISITBRITAIN/NATIONAL GALLERY, LONDON

A day in London for £10? Including paid-for attractions, morning coffee and lunch? Here's how... • National Gallery, 10am for a quick look (free). • Horse Guards Arch: Changing the Guard, 11am or 10am Sundays (free). • Vicinity of Trafalgar Square, coffee (allow £2.50). • Trafalgar Square: number 15 bus eastbound on a traditional red Routemaster (£1.40; use pre-pay Oyster card for this fare). • From the bus enjoy the views of St Clement Danes church; Royal Courts of Justice; St Bride's, the ‘wedding cake’ church; Fleet Street. Alight at Old Bailey. • Bart's Hospital Museum tells the story of the world-famous hospital founded in 1123 (free). • Late lunch, from any supermarket around Cheapside (allow £3, or less). Enjoy it in Postman's Park. • St Alfege's churchyard for a section of Roman wall (free). • Next, Leadenhall Market for boutique window-shopping. Admire the wonderful restored Victorian roof of this bustling former market. • Finally, visit the Monument – built to commemorate the Great Fire of London. It is 311 steps to the top (£3).

better at the tail end of the week); and Portobello Road, beloved of Paddington Bear of the classic children’s books. And for the ultimate in floriferous experiences, it has to be Columbia Road flower market on Sundays. Early-risers get the best bargains, but you can’t beat the excitement of just being there. There’s some marvellous window-shopping to be had too. For sheer specialism, try the London Silver Vaults in Chancery Lane. Effectively an underground series of vaults, each is a shop: if you want it in silver, the chances are they will have it. From a teaspoon to a chandelier to objects that, frankly, have to be seen to be believed. It serves as a reminder of Samuel Johnson’s words that, “there is, in London all that life can afford.” Although you don’t always need a bulging wallet to enjoy it.

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John Keats lived in this house from 1818 to 1820 and here he wrote some of his best loved poetry, including Ode to a Nightingale

Keats House

Visit the beautiful Regency house where the Romantic poet John Keats wrote his most famous work and fell in love with Fanny Brawne, the girl next door.

eats ove ampstead Keats House, Keats Grove,

London NW3 2RR 020 7332 3868 Keats House is provided by the City of London Corporation as part of its contribution to the www.cityoflondon.gov.uk/keatshousehampstead cultural life of London and the nation www.cityoflondon.gov.uk/keats


PHOTO: © ISTOCK


London

CAPITAL OUTING Visit Britain’s oldest brewery or the site where the Magna Carta was signed; see the world’s longest pier or the oldest electric railway; walk in the footsteps of Romans or ‘take the waters’ in The Pantiles – and you can do all of this within one hour of London WORDS CHRIS FAUTLEY

PHOTO: © ROBERT HARDING WORLD IMAGERY/CORBIS

The Royal Pavilion in Brighton is a former royal residence. It was built in 1787 as a seaside retreat for George, Prince of Wales, who became the Prince Regent in 1811 and later King George IV

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very day, huge numbers of travellers converge on London by train. From all points of the compass, railway lines come together in the capital as spokes to a bicycle wheel’s centre. Of course, what goes in must come out, which means all those trains on their return journeys bring a plethora of historic places within an hour or so’s reach of the capital. They include fine cities, such as Canterbury, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Mention Canterbury, and it conjures up images of its great cathedral; the city’s history, however, started long before it was built. To the Romans it was Durovernum Cantiacorum, ‘the town by the marshes’. Little trace remains of the Roman town walls (they formed part of the ruined Norman castle), but the medieval successors that we see today follow their path. Of the seven original gates, the West Gate, probably dating from the late 14th century, is the only survivor. The cathedral, however, is not the city’s only site of religious significance. Beyond the walls lie the fine BRITAIN | THE 2014 GUIDE

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William Etheridge, also responsible for Ramsgate harbour, in Kent. The assertion that the bridge was built without nails or pegs is similarly without foundation. At the Backs’ northern end is the 1831 Bridge of Sighs, linking two parts of St John’s College. It has little to compare with its Venetian counterpart save that it is enclosed. King’s College Chapel merits a particular mention if only through the sheer tenacity of its builders. Work commenced in 1446 under the auspices of Henry VI, the college’s founder; it was to be more than a century before it was completed. The result is a magnificent example of the Perpendicular style and reputedly the world’s largest fan vault. The chapel is famous for its Christmas Eve service of nine lessons and carols transmitted worldwide by broadcasters – including more than 300 in the US. Peterhouse, founded in 1284, is the oldest college. Its proper title is St Peter’s College (never Peterhouse College). The Cambridge University Press, meanwhile, founded in 1534, is the world’s oldest publishing house. The university also has its own botanic garden, established in 1846 and home to more than 8,000 species. Oxford’s botanic garden, with 5,000 species, can’t quite match that. But, founded in 1621, it is Britain’s oldest. Entire books have been written about Oxford’s university architecture, whose examples include almost every style from medieval onwards. University College is the oldest, its origins stretching back to the 13th century – although its architecture is largely 17th century. Alumni (known as Univites) include Shelley, Clement Attlee and Bill Clinton. Christ Church (known as The House) is almost certainly the most famous. As well as boasting the largest dining hall it has, in Tom Quad, the largest quadrangle. Its chapel dates from the 12th century and stands where the city’s patron saint, St Frideswide, was buried. The chapel also doubles as Oxford’s cathedral – a status assumed in 1542. It is one of Britain’s smallest.

Above: Shopping in Canterbury's cobbled backstreets, with the cathedral tower illuminated at twilight. Facing page, clockwise from top left: Students' bicycles outside King's College, Cambridge; ceiling and organ of King's College Chapel; field of marigolds grown on the Lees Court Estate, Faversham

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remains of St Augustine’s Abbey, established in AD598 and burial place of ancient Kentish kings. Greyfriars Chapel, meanwhile, was part of England’s first Franciscan priory. Eastbridge Hospital (hospital as in ‘hospitable place’) serves as home to a number of elderly residents. It was founded during the 12th century as a place where pilgrims could take shelter. Perhaps Rupert Brooke was having a bad day when he observed that “Cambridge people rarely smile” for the city’s eye-popping architecture and riverside setting are sufficient to cheer the gloomiest of souls. Less than an hour north of London, Cambridge is noted for its fine college buildings, many being separated from the River Cam by a lawned stretch of riverbank known as the Backs. Cambridge also has an interesting line in bridges. The Mathematical Bridge at Queens’ College crosses the Cam at the Backs’ southern end. Dating from 1749 (and rebuilt twice since), tradition wrongly says that it was designed by Sir Isaac Newton (he died in 1727). Its true designer was

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It’s a shade over an hour from London to Faversham, in whose long-vanished abbey King Stephen and his wife, Matilda, were buried. This Kentish creekside market town has more than 400 listed buildings – Faversham Creek, leading to the sea three miles away, having very much driven the town’s story, particularly for the industries that depended upon it. Among these is Shepherd Neame brewery – Britain’s oldest. Established in 1698, it has a visitor centre and regularly runs tours and tastings. This is the place to learn precisely what sparging and trub might be. Faversham is also famous for gunpowder, first manufactured here in 1573; there were once six factories. Were it not for Faversham gunpowder, the face of modern Britain may have been quite different for it was used to clear paths to build railways and canals. Later, high explosives such as TNT were manufactured here. Explosives production ceased in 1934, although Chart Gunpowder Mills, the world’s oldest, have been restored. www.britain-magazine.com

PHOTOS: © ISTOCK/VISITBRITAIN/DANIEL BOSWORTH

To the Romans it was Durovernum Cantiacorum, ‘town by the marshes’. Little remains of the Roman walls, but the medieval successors follow their path


London


London

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London

PHOTO: © JOE PETERSBURGER/CORBIS/NEIL MCALLISTER/ALAMY/ISTOCK/VISIT BRITAIN

Here are all the glories of the British seaside. Fairground rides, fish and chips, a pier... Brighton once had two, but the West Pier fell prey to fire and storms Dudley Lord North, an English nobleman, can scarcely have imagined what he was starting when, in 1606, he stumbled across a spring near what is now Tunbridge Wells, in Kent. Indulging of the iron-rich water, he lauded what he perceived to be its health-giving properties. Word spread, and the great and the good flocked to the new town that grew around the spring – anxious to take the waters. By Georgian times it was the place to be seen socially, not least because the great dandy Richard ‘Beau’ Nash had appointed himself Master of Ceremonies – a role he already enjoyed at Bath. A day would typically be spent promenading, dancing, taking coffee and gathering at the fine assembly rooms. The centre of life was a street known as The Pantiles, named after its square, tile-shaped paving that was baked in a pan. The Pantiles is a fine colonnaded thoroughfare; buildings worth looking out for include the old assembly rooms, (numbers 40-46) and the Corn Exchange; musicians serenaded promenaders from the balcony of number 43. During summer, it is still possible to take the waters in The Pantiles, for which a small charge is made – not for the water, but for the services of the costumed dipper who serves it. Guided tours are usually available, taking in the fine architecture that developed as a result of the town’s fame. Alternatively, a 10-minute walk from The Pantiles leads to www.britain-magazine.com

the Spa Valley Railway, a five-mile steam heritage line through the Kentish countryside. It did not need Nash to attract the cognoscenti to Brighton: King George IV made a thoroughly good job of that when he decided to settle there, his legacy being the onion-domed Royal Pavilion. The city – more accurately the city of Brighton and Hove – is as little as 52 minutes from the capital; small wonder that it is known as London-by-the-Sea. Here you will find all the glories of the British seaside. Fairground rides, fish and chips, a pier... Brighton once had two, but the West Pier fell prey to a combination of fire and storms. All that is left is a truncated section incorporating the remains of a concert hall. Regardless of that, it does still mount one of the most atmospheric free shows in Britain when, during winter, as many as 40,000 starlings perform their stunning murmurations as dusk falls. The city is also home to Volk’s Railway, the world’s oldest electric railway and the brainchild of inventor Magnus Volk. Opened in 1883, it trundles for a mile along the seafront during summer months. Literature lovers, meanwhile, may retrace the footsteps of Pinkie Brown and Kolly Kibber from Graham Greene’s Brighton Rock. Not to be outdone, Southend-on-Sea in Essex also offers the trappings of a popular day-trippers’ resort. Its star attraction is its pier, at 2,158m (7,080ft) it is the longest

Above: Coloured beach huts on the seafront at Brighton, East Sussex. Facing page, clockwise from top left: Boats for punting in the canals of Oxford; Lewes Castle; some of Oxford University's architecture dates back to medieval times

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in the world; just as well as it also has the longest pier railway, although walking is still an option. If that builds a healthy appetite, then three stops London-bound on the train leads to Leigh-on-Sea. It’s an old fishing village and the quarter to the south of the railway retains much of its original charm. Leigh is famed for its seafood, particularly shellfish and cockles. In East Sussex, it’s hard to imagine how so much is crammed into the small county town of Lewes. A two motte, Norman castle (the only one similar is in Lincoln); the remains of an 11th-century priory that was once one of England’s largest; Anne of Cleves House – part of her divorce settlement from Henry VIII (she didn’t live there); a battlefield where, in 1264, Henry III was defeated; the Greenwich Meridian; and a world-famous association with bonfire, Protestant martyrs and Guy Fawkes night. Like many early saints St Alban died for his cause, thus becoming Britain’s first Christian martyr. He was a victim of the Romans in their city of Verulamium and it wasn't long before a shrine appeared near his burial place. On this site northwest of London, soon to be known as St Albans, were subsequently built a Saxon church and a Benedictine abbey that eventually became St Albans Cathedral. It basks in the glow of being Britain’s oldest place of continuous Christian worship. After their conquest of Britain in AD43 the Romans, nevertheless, made their mark in what was, at 200 acres, Britain’s third largest Roman town. Much has been excavated, including the theatre – the only one in Britain revealed in its entirety – and part of the city wall. St Albans also witnessed two battles on its outskirts: the first in 1455, followed by a second in 1461 when Margaret of Anjou defeated the Yorkists on 17 February. Colchester in Essex became Camulodunum, Britain’s first Roman town, after it was captured from the local leader Cunobelin (Shakespeare’s Cymbeline). Its city walls, at almost two miles, and gateway – Britain’s largest – remain. The Norman castle is reputedly built over the temple of Claudius. Its walls are 3.7m (12ft) thick and the keep is 50 per cent larger than the White Tower at the Tower of London. Southwest of London, a one-and-a-half-mile walk from the station at Egham in Surrey leads to a meadow on the banks of the Thames, just downstream from Windsor. The surrounding area has become a focus for memorials marking man’s struggle for liberty. The Commonwealth Air Forces Memorial commemorates 20,456 Allied airmen and women of the Second World War who have no known grave; while the Kennedy Memorial, set in an acre of land donated to the United States, marks the assassination of the statesman in 1963. Yet long before all that, this seemingly modest site bore witness to one of the most momentous events in England’s history. It was to sculpt forever the English way of life, its principles becoming the cornerstone of individual freedom and liberty throughout much of the world. It was here, in Runnymede, that King John signed the Magna Carta.

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PHOTO: © ISTOCK

London

EDITOR'S PICK • LULLINGSTONE ROMAN VILLA is

a short walk from Eynsford station in Kent and a splendid alternative to the Roman cities of Colchester and St Albans. • THE HISTORIC DOCKYARD, CHATHAM was once an important base for the Royal Navy. It offers a riverside setting but less architecture than Faversham. (Chatham station is two miles). • WINDSOR, ROCHESTER, AND TILBURY FORT on the Thames estuary are wonderful places. Tilbury Fort was famously visited by Queen Elizabeth I who gave a rousing speech to her troops here. • ELY CATHEDRAL in Cambridgeshire, dates from 1083 and is just over an hour from London. • HENLEY-ON-THAMES, with its Georgian-fronted main street, could just be the 21st century's answer to Beau Nash's Tunbridge Wells: its annual regatta is one of

Britain's great social events. There's also the River & Rowing Museum and boat trips. • ETON COLLEGE in Windsor is the prestigious seat of learning which offers tours at selected times during the year. (Stations include Windsor & Eton Riverside and Windsor & Eton Central). • BOX HILL is a 900-acre National Trust site in Surrey. At 182m (596ft) it is one of southeast England's highest points, with views in excess of 25 miles. Particularly good for wildlife lovers and walkers. The nearest station is Box Hill & Westhumble, one-and-a-half miles away. • KNOLE is a former palace of the Archbishops of Canterbury, and one of England's finest treasure houses, which has preserved its historic atmosphere. Particularly noted for its connections with Vita Sackville-West (see page 68), it has 365 rooms – one for each day of the year.

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London Bridge Hotel has everything you need in a London hotel, relaxed yet comfortable and contemporary accommodation; a great location and transport links and the buzz of the city just outside the door. Situated in the heart of the historic and thriving Borough of Southwark, London Bridge Hotel provides an excellent base from which to enjoy all the attractions of the capital, The Shard, the newly regenerated London Bridge Quarter, Borough Market and the River Thames. Whilst here you must pay a visit to Quarter Bar & Lounge, the hotel’s bar which offers a chic design with a relaxed and comfortable atmosphere. Choose a glamorous cocktail from our vast menu, or if hunger beckons why not try one of our sharing platters and other tasty treats.

London Bridge Hotel

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8/18 London Bridge Street

Tel: +44 (0) 20 7855 2200

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SE1 9SG

Email: reservations@londonbridgehotel.com

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North East England

Location

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Location

SOUTHWEST ENGLAND The counties of Devon, Dorset, Somerset and Cornwall are home to countless fishing villages, bays and coves where you can get a slice of the calm and quaintness that have earned this corner of Britain the label of ‘England’s Riviera’. Strictly speaking the ‘Riviera’ refers to a stretch of 22 miles of undulated south Devon coastline, including the British seaside resorts of Torquay, Paignton and Brixham, backdrop to countless Agatha Christie mysteries. Christie herself was born here. Not to be outdone, Cornwall has an allure of its own, with sleepy towns and sandy beaches. Its tin mining and shipbuilding heritage is evident on its cliff tops, and in its

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still thriving fishing villages and towns, such as Falmouth, home of the tallships. In Somerset and the West Country you can enjoy lazy days supping cider, surrounded by rolling hills and hay barns, or visit Stone Henge, one of the wonders of the world and a constant source of intrigue for visitors. The World Heritage Site of Dorset’s Jurassic Coast has rocks charting 185 million years of history along 95 miles of stunning coastline. Dorset is also Thomas Hardy country and the writer brought the region’s rural tranquility to life through his novels. Close by are the charming chocolate-box towns of the Cotswolds, while the Roman spa town of Bath never fails to delight.

PHOTO:© ISTOCK

The Riviera

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Daphne du Maurier’s

CORNWALL With atmospheric tales of romance, smugglers and secrecy, author Daphne du Maurier wrote spellbinding novels inspired by the drama of the Cornish landscape WORDS JESSICA TOOZE

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Southwest England

Du Maurier drew her inspiration for Manderley from the Cornish mansion of Menabilly

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PHOTO: © CHICHESTER PARTNERSHIP

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ast night I dreamt I went to Manderley again,” writes Daphne du Maurier in the famous opening sentence of her novel Rebecca. She was known for channelling her feelings for cherished landscapes and surroundings to inform her creativity, and in Rebecca this wistful line comes from the author’s homesickness for her beloved Cornwall. Du Maurier was born in London in 1907 but it was the dramatic landscape of England’s most south-westerly county, which she first experienced at the age of 19 on a trip to Fowey, that excited her imagination and became the backdrop to her most memorable fiction. The initial drive to Fowey, along country lanes with clifftop views, was something du Maurier remembered for her whole life. At 60, she wrote of the impact of that moment: “The hired car swept round the curve of the hill and suddenly the full expanse of Fowey Harbour was spread beneath us … like the gateway to another world. My spirits soared.” Fowey (pronounced ‘Foy’) is now at the centre of what has been dubbed ‘du Maurier country’ and is a pretty port with an illustrious history – it sent ships to join the battle against the Spanish Armada in 1588. It is a picturesque place to visit, with its narrow tiers of pastel-coloured cottages winding down to the attractive harbour where small yachts with bright sails nip across the water. The poet Robert Bridges described Fowey as, “the most poetic-looking place in England,” and it provided inspiration for Kenneth Grahame’s The Wind in the Willows – he is said to have modelled Toad Hall on Fowey Hall, now the Fowey Hall Hotel. Du Maurier would have taken the little vehicle ferry that journeys from Bodinnick on the eastern side of the Fowey estuary (it is still running today and there is a pedestrian ferry from the old fishing village of Polruan, slightly further down). She also frequented the 400-year-old Ferry Inn and it was on the way here on her first visit that du Maurier spotted a house perched between the BRITAIN | THE 2014 GUIDE

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Southwest England cliffside and the river, named Swiss Cottage, which the family promptly bought and renamed Ferryside. “Here was the freedom I desired,” she said. “Freedom to write, to walk, to wander, freedom to climb hills, to pull a boat, to be alone.” For du Maurier this magical place did indeed provide a gateway into another world – it was here that her writing took off. She loved the coastal existence, learning to sail and fish and starting the long walks that were to become a habit throughout her life. She confided in her diary: “I think Fowey means more to me than anything now. The river, the harbour, the sea. It’s much more than love for a person.” On her adventures she soaked up the atmosphere of Cornwall’s wild countryside so that its places, people and unique inspirations began to materialise in her work. Her first novel The Loving Spirit, for example, came from one of her excursions to a sheltered tidal creek off the Fowey River by Pont Pill. Here she found the wrecked schooner Jane Slade whose carved figurehead excited her imagination. Du Maurier researched the family of the woman represented by the figurehead, and in the novel Jane Slade became Janet Coombe. The story chronicles the lives of four generations of a Cornish boat-building family living in the fictional town of Plyn, unmistakably the landscape of Polruan. A 14th-century block house, from which a chain could be pulled up across the river to prevent the entrance of unwanted vessels, can be seen today at the head of the estuary, towards the open sea of St Austell Bay – a reminder that this coast was once a popular haunt of pirates. In a hopelessly romantic real-life story, it was this book that was to introduce du Maurier to her future husband. Major Tommy Browning was so affected by the novel that he sailed his yacht to Fowey in search of the author. They fell in love and in July 1932 were married at the medieval St Wyllow’s Church in Lanteglos-by-Fowey. Jane Slade is buried in the graveyard.

Above: Ferryside was bought by writer Daphne du Maurier's family in 1926. Below: A portrait of du Maurier in 1932. Facing page: Boats moored on Pont Pill with Polruan and the River Fowey in the distance

PHOTOS: © JAMES OSMOND PHOTOGRAPHY/ALAMY/CONSTANCE COLLIER/ISTOCK

EXPLORE DU MAURIER COUNTRY

• The nearest train stations are at Par and St Austell. www.nationalrail.co.uk • The Daphne du Maurier Festival, Fowey, takes place in May each year. www.dumaurier.org/festival

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• The Daphne du Maurier Literary Centre offers guided walks of Fowey so you can trace the links between her books and life. www.fowey.co.uk • Menabilly and most of the grounds remain private although two cottages on the estate – including ‘Rebecca’s boathouse’, Polridmouth Cottage – can be rented as holiday lets. From £629 per week. www.menabilly.com • Jamaica Inn houses a display of memorabilia in the room where du Maurier stayed, featuring various items owned by the author, including her writing desk and typewriter. B&B starts at £70. www.jamaicainn.co.uk • Frenchman’s Creek Cottage contains plenty of du Maurier-related books and a logbook with tributes to her. Four nights from £266. www.landmarktrust.org.uk

Many of the landmarks that du Maurier loved around Fowey can be identified in The Loving Spirit, and as she wrote more (by the time it was published in 1932, she had written another book and was halfway through a third) she ventured further afield. She travelled to the Lizard Peninsula, the southernmost point of Cornwall, and to Trelowarren Estate there, home to the Vyvyan family. Du Maurier described the Gothic, atmospheric house and grounds at Trelowarren as, “the most beautiful place imaginable,” and was struck by its spooky long drive of holm oaks with dark, intertwining branches. The friend she made here, Clara Vyvyan, frequently visited a tributary of the Helford River nearby called Frenchman’s Creek, and it was to this remote spot that du Maurier and her new husband came for their honeymoon. Du Maurier’s dashing tale of love and adventure of the same name was published in 1941. The heroine Lady Dona St Columb vividly describes her first impressions of the secret spot: “Suddenly, before her for the first time, was the creek, still and soundless, shrouded by the trees, hidden from the eyes of men.” The creek is still isolated and peaceful today. At low tide, the skeletons of dead trees are revealed, black and dripping in the water, and abandoned boats are beached, although you are unlikely to find a dashing foreign pirate. You can soak up the romance of the place, however, in dreamy Frenchman’s Creek Cottage, once rented by Clara Vyvyan and now owned by the Landmark Trust. On another of her expeditions, in November 1930, du Maurier went riding on Bodmin Moor to the north of Fowey and, lost in a thick fog, came across the Jamaica Inn Temperance Hotel. It had been a stop for stage and mail coaches travelling from Penzance or Falmouth to London, and it was easy for her to picture the “grim landmark” in a tempestuous past, when smuggling was rampant. Her novel Jamaica Inn captures the forbidding bleakness of the moor that can still hold true today, especially in the grip of one of the sudden changes of weather to BRITAIN | THE 2014 GUIDE

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Above: The coaching house of Jamaica Inn. Below: Bodmin Moor's bleak landscape contrasts with the pretty village of Altarnun, which du Maurier loved (opposite)

PHOTOS: © PHILIP SHARP/ALAMY/ LOOP IMAGES /PHILIP FENTON LRPS/CORBIS

which it is prone. Her heroine Mary Yellan describes the sinister desolation of the place: “On either side of the road the country stretched interminably into space … mile upon mile of bleak moorland, dark and untraversed, rolling like a desert land to some unseen horizon.” Jamaica Inn, to be found between Bodmin and Launceston, has gained notoriety for allegedly being one of the most haunted places in Britain. A major site of tourism now, it contains a museum on smuggling, which recalls a time when the Cornwall coast was the most popular location for the smuggling of silks, tea, tobacco and brandy into England. For those on the trail of du Maurier, a more authentically atmospheric destination is nearby Dozmary Pool. The bottomless lake of legend, into which King Arthur’s sword 'Excalibur' was thrown, was a place that the author certainly visited. In fact, she knew the moor well, from the pretty village of Altarnun, so at odds with the sinister connections in Jamaica Inn, to the highest tor, Brown Willy (whose name rather ruins its Cornish origins, Bron Wennyly, meaning ‘hill of swallows’). Of course the building that du Maurier is most associated with, and that was more significant to her than any other, was waiting to be discovered. She wrote that she had glimpsed a roof deep in the “enchanted woods” below Gribbin Head to the west of Fowey and set out to find more about this “house of secrets”. The ivy-covered grey stone manor was called Menabilly, and was hidden behind wrought-iron gates where an “eerie and most ghostlike atmosphere” awaited on the impassable drive. The local legend was that the house, part of the private estate of the Rashleigh family and passed down since Tudor times, was haunted. But du Maurier was fascinated with the place and returned often to trespass

through the wild grounds of tangled holly and rhododendrons, once climbing in through an unlatched window to wander through dusty rooms. She wrote about her feelings for the house in 1932, saying, “I’m here, I’m happy, I’m home.” However, Menabilly remained purely a preoccupation for du Maurier for many years, especially once her husband’s regiment was posted to Egypt in 1936. She detested Alexandria and longed to return to Cornwall. It was during this time though that the seeds of Rebecca were sown – her longing for Menabilly and Cornwall is manifested in the character of the second Mrs de Winter who forms a strong attachment with her new house: Manderley. Published in 1938, Rebecca was a sensation and within the first few weeks 100,000 copies had been sold. Film adaptations and stage plays followed, which kept du Maurier busy, now in London. But in April 1942 she finally moved back to Fowey. She could not live at Ferryside, as the Royal Navy had requisitioned it, so she rented 8 Readymoney Cove, a pretty white house perched right on the water’s edge by a small bay between Covington Woods and the grand mansion of Point Neptune. Returning to Menabilly, she found the house even more derelict after years of neglect. Determined to save it, she contacted the owner Dr Rashleigh who agreed to let it to her – dry rot, leaking roof and all. Her husband was far away in Tunis, occupied with the war, so du Maurier turned all her energies to restoring her dream home and by the end of the year, amazingly, it was ready for habitation. She and her children loved the grounds, which were full of azaleas in the spring, and the woods that blossomed with snowdrops, daffodils, bluebells and wild garlic. They swam in the sea, picnicked at Menabilly Beach and lived a quiet, idyllic countryside existence, quite cut off from the rest of the world. Du Maurier wrote in 1946: “At midnight, when the children sleep, and all is hushed and still, I sit down at the piano and look at the panelled walls, and slowly, softly,

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PHOTOS: © ASHLEY COOPER PICS/ALAMY/PHILIP FENTON LRPS/LOOP IMAGES/CORBIS

Southwest England

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Above: Pendennis Castle is one of the finest fortresses built by King Henry VIII and features in The King's General

Rashleighs in 1969 when she moved to Kilmarth, the dower house of the Menabilly estate and her final home. At Kilmarth she was inspired to write her penultimate novel The House on the Strand (1969), her interest piqued by the home’s cellars where she found the remains of experiments by the previous tenant. For this novel, which dips in and out of 14th-century Cornwall, she immersed herself in research to discover how the landscape had changed and began to “see the whole countryside in a 14th-century way”. Local landmarks again feature strongly, from Kilmarth to the almshouses at the base of Polmear Hill, to the nearby villages – all wonderful places to visit today. In du Maurier’s stories, places become as vitally important as people and are characters in their own right. And throughout her work, there is no bigger character than Cornwall. In 1967 she produced a coffee-table book entitled Vanishing Cornwall. It was a chance for her to proclaim her love for her adopted county. “A county known and loved in all its moods becomes woven into the pattern of life, something to be shared. As one who sought to know it long ago … in a quest for freedom, and later put down roots and found content, I have come a small way up the path. The beauty and the mystery beckon still.” PHOTO: © ASHLEY COOPER PICS/ALAMY

with no one there to see, the house whispers her secrets, and the secrets turn to stories.” With her happiness in her new home came more novels. In Cavalier romance The King’s General (1946) she blended fact and fiction to write about Menabilly during the English Civil War – the action ranges across Cornwall from Launceston Castle to Lanhydrock, now owned by the National Trust. Pendennis Castle, built by King Henry VIII in the 1540s just outside Falmouth, features strongly. My Cousin Rachel (1951) includes recognisable elements of du Maurier’s daily life: the rhododendrons, the mill cottage on the beach, the favoured spots for swimming; and Menabilly, though unnamed, is surely the mansion that Philip Ashley cherished. Her 13th novel, Castle Dor (1962) takes its name from the Iron Age fort on the west bank of the River Fowey, once home to the legendary King Mark and setting for the ultimate Cornish love story – Tristan and Iseult. Walking in the footsteps of the author is not difficult, for her writing is suffused with recognisable elements of the Cornish countryside. Stroll up to Gribbin Head, for example, and follow the path down to Polridmouth Beach (pronounced ‘Pridmouth’). A notorious black spot for shipwrecks, the bay here still has some of the brooding atmosphere that permeates Rebecca. The pebble beach backs onto a freshwater lake, fed by a stream emerging from high above within the dark woods of the Menabilly estate, and the lonely former mill house can easily be imagined as the “cottage on the beach” where Rebecca met her lover. Menabilly itself remains a mysterious presence on the landscape – du Maurier’s “house of secrets” has, perhaps fittingly, reverted to quiet seclusion. It was returned to the

 For more information on Daphne du Maurier’s time in Cornwall, read Daphne du Maurier At Home by Hilary Macaskill, which explores the homes and landscapes of the writer's life, illustrated with rare material from the family archive. Published by Frances Lincoln, £25, hardback. www.britain-magazine.com


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North East England

Location

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Location

EASTERN ENGLAND

PHOTO:©JON GIBBS/CORBIS

Constable Country

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In the east of England colourful beach huts speckle coastlines, and towering cathedrals can be found in cities across Norfolk, Suffolk, Cambridgeshire, Essex and Hertfordshire. Medieval market towns such as Lavenham in Suffolk appear preserved from when they were built by the wool merchants of Tudor times. Beautiful architecture and grand stately homes tell of the area’s wealth – due to the successful wool trade during the boom years of the Industrial Revolution and the region's proximity to London. Norfolk is home to the official country retreat of The Queen and Prince Philip, Sandringham House, where the first televised Christmas broadcast was made in 1957.

Ely Cathedral in Cambridgeshire is a magnificent Norman ecclesiastical monument that towers over the Fens and the relatively small town of Ely itself. The eastern region boasts three areas of outstanding natural beauty and one national park. North Norfolk has an evocative coastline with great stretching sandy beaches, overlooked by Holkham Hall and the Norfolk Broads, which crisscross through the county. The English painter, John Constable, immortalised the picturesque flatlands of Suffolk and Essex in the 18th century and the area of traditional lowlands is now often referred to as Constable Country and has inspired artists with its verdant beauty since.

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LUMINOUS LANDSCAPES

Northwest Norfolk offers the perfect blend of heritage and countryside, with fascinating attractions and charming places to stay WORDS JESSICA TOOZE

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PHOTOS: © OCEAN/CORBIS/ISTOCK/ILLUSTRATION: © SCOTT JESSOP

Eastern England

“I

am a Norfolk man and Glory in being so,” said Admiral Horatio Nelson, national naval hero and the county’s most famous son. With nearly 100 miles or half its boundary formed by coastline, Norfolk is proud of its maritime history. But these days it is less known for its seafaring tradition and more for the Broads and the Brecks, its historic stately homes, and for being unapologetically flat. It is true that this easterly county, jutting out into the North Sea and named from the Anglo-Saxon for ‘the place of the north folk’, is very low lying, with swathes of sandy beaches, bands of salt marshes and plentiful farmland, blanketed by shifting skies. Yet Norfolk is far from a bleak landscape. Its countryside is dotted with some of the most beautiful hamlets and villages in England, crisscrossed by waterways and sprinkled with windmills and ancient

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Facing page: The first windmills appeared in the late 12th century and at one point there were more than 100 in Norfolk. Above: Beach huts at Wells-next-the-Sea

churches. And all of this can be reached in just a two-hour train journey from London, making it a wonderful destination for a short escape from the capital. Norfolk’s northernmost coastline is home to the great golden beach and nature reserve at Holkham that was memorably used as the setting for the final scene in the film Shakespeare in Love. Here families picnic on the sands, couples stroll in the dunes and horse riders canter in the surf, yet it never feels busy, even in the height of summer. The sheer freedom and space of the place, covering some 9,000 acres, is quite astounding for those used to the busy beaches of England’s south coast. Birds are a particular attraction in this expansive, wild landscape and many species can be spotted, from summer visitors such as common and little terns and avocet, to the

thousands of pink-footed geese that arrive and depart from their roosts between October and March. From Wells-next-the-Sea to Burnham Overy the dunes and beach are backed by fragrant pine woodland. The scenery now is largely man-made, having been reclaimed in the late 19th century by the 2nd Earl

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PHOTOS: © HOLKHAM ESTATE/STRATTONS HOTEL

PLACES TO STAY

BANK HOUSE HOTEL King's Lynn, Norfolk, PE30 1RD The hotel is situated in a former bank and visitors can still see a dent in the antique floor of the Counting House, now the front room of the Brasserie, where customers once shuffled their feet as they waited at the cashiers' desk to make their withdrawals. www.thebankhouse.co.uk STRATTONS HOTEL Ash Close, Swaffham, Norfolk, PE37 7NH This beautiful building was once a favourite with the Nelson family. The first noted owner of the villa was related by marriage to Admiral Horatio Nelson's brother, who inherited the Admiral's title on his death. www.strattons-hotel.co.uk TITCHWELL MANOR Titchwell, Nr Brancaster, Norfolk, PE31 8BB As well as the glorious coastal location, a highlight of this hotel is the food, and you can choose from casual dining in the new Eating Rooms or try the excellent value tasting menu from Norfolk Chef of the Year 2012 Eric Snaith in the Conservatory. Local ingredients, including lavender and Cromer crab, are used in delicate dishes served in a relaxed environment. www.titchwellmanor.com

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Facing page: Holkham's imposing Marble Hall. Below: Holkham is one of England's finest examples of the Palladian revival style of architecture. Left: Strattons Hotel

of Leicester who planted three miles of sand with Corsican pine trees to stabilise the dunes, hold back the seas and secure the freshwater marshes. But at one time the tidal creeks were wide enough for ships to load cargo from a ‘staithe’ or quay in Holkham village. Today this village shows rural Norfolk architecture at its best. Pretty red-brick cottages with tall chimneys, originally built as homes for workers on the Holkham Estate, have now become shops, the Victoria Hotel and the Rose Garden Café, situated in Holkham’s oldest domestic building, The Ancient House.

In 1865, a grand ball was held here in honour of the Prince of Wales, later King Edward VII (whose Sandringham Estate was not too far away). The room was illuminated by 300 waxlights and the dancing continued until the early hours. Outside, the Walled Gardens are also worth exploring. The six and a half acres, originally laid out by Samuel Wyatt during the late 18th century, are being restored and offer a tranquil place to wander. If you’re looking for somewhere to stay, some 10 miles west of Holkham near the pretty village of Brancaster is Titchwell Manor. In an atmospheric

The magnificent Holkham Hall is one of the finest Palladian houses in the country. Today the 7th Earl of Leicester has retired to another property on the estate, leaving his son, Viscount Coke (it is pronounced ‘cook’), to enjoy the grand Italianate villa. Many of the Hall’s most handsome rooms are open to the public, including the imposing Marble Hall where the colonnade is copied from the Temple of Fortuna Virilis in Rome, while the splendid ceiling, taken from Rome’s Pantheon, rises to a height of over 50 feet. In contrast to this classical space is the Saloon, which is used for entertaining.

location overlooking marshland and the sea, this former Victorian farmhouse sits just a short walk from Titchwell Marsh where seals can often be found basking beside a small, enchanting creek. Head east along the coast to Caley Mill at Heacham and you will find the heady scent and purple haze of lavender. This has been England’s premier lavender farm for 80 years and there are 100 acres under cultivation. Here you can marvel at the beautiful fields and enjoy the tearoom and gift shop with its extensive selection of lavenders, herbs and other perennials. An annual Lavender Festival takes place here

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Wonderful Weekends

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Eastern England This picture: St Mary's Church,Titchwell. Below: Norfolk Lavender at Heacham is England’s premier lavender farm. Facing page: Boats moored at Wells-next-the-Sea

PHOTOS: © STEVE NICHOLS/ALAMY/TRACEY WHITEFOOT/SUPERSTOCK

NORFOLK ITINERARY

• HOLKHAM HALL is open from 1 April to 31 October and an adult ticket to the Hall, Walled Gardens and Bygones Museum, with its exhibition of domestic and agricultural memorabilia, costs £13 for adults. www.holkham.co.uk • RSPB NATURE RESERVE AT TITCHWELL MARSH is free to visit and a walk from the visitor centre down to the sandy beach takes you past reed beds and shallow lagoons. www.rspb.org.uk • NORFOLK LAVENDER is open every day from 9am until 5pm. Visit when the lavender is

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in bloom from the middle of June until the end of August. www.norfolk-lavender.co.uk • KING'S LYNN OLD GAOL HOUSE in the Town Hall, where smugglers caught by the revenue men of the Custom House would be thrown, is open from 9 April to 1 November and costs £3.30. www.kingslynntownhall.com • GRIME’S GRAVES is the only Neolithic flint mine open to visitors in Britain. Admission to this grassy lunar landscape is from 1 April to 30 September. www.english-heritage.org.uk/ grimesgraves

each July, which features craft stalls, falconry displays, food tasting and much more. Also easily accessible from Titchwell is the traditional seaside town of Wells-next-the-Sea and beautiful Burnham Market, only a mile from Admiral Nelson’s birthplace at Burnham Thorpe. It was near here that Nelson learned to row and sail a dinghy at the age of 10, two years before joining the Navy and another 35 years before his great victory at the Battle of Trafalgar. Wells offers the perfect seaside day out, with a lovely sweeping beach backed by forest, colourful beach huts and a historic harbour that was once England’s most important. From Tudor times until the 19th century this was a prosperous centre for shipping and maritime industry. Today it is busy with children casting for crabs off the jetty and quaint shops selling buckets and spades and fish and chips. Norfolk is one of the best places in England to explore the nation’s history and traditions. As the writer Arthur Mee once declared: “For the

traveller in search of England’s heritage, the county is a paradise.” King’s Lynn, situated on the River Ouse as it prepares to enter the estuary where Norfolk meets Lincolnshire, was one of England’s most important ports from as early as the 12th century. Its maritime past remains very much in evidence today. The town is reputed to have more listed buildings than any other of its size in Britain and many fine old merchants’ houses reach down to the river along cobbled lanes, flanked by two magnificent market places. In Saturday Market Place the vast St Margaret’s Church, recently designated as a Minster Church by the Bishop of Norwich, sits opposite the Town Hall and Trinity Guildhall, built between 1422 and 1428; nearby you cannot fail to be impressed by the majestic proportions of Tuesday Market Place, surrounded by a range of elegant Georgian architecture. King’s Lynn grew rich on trade as part of the Hanseatic League, a powerful German trading organisation that was composed of merchants from north Germany BRITAIN | THE 2014 GUIDE

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PHOTO: © HOLMES GARDEN PHOTOS/ALAMY

Eastern England

and neighbouring countries around the Baltic Sea. This legacy can be seen today in the town’s most famous monument to maritime prosperity, the Custom House. Built by Henry Bell in 1683, the striking building contains a special display of the town’s seafaring history. Lying beside Custom House and the River Ouse, Bank House Hotel is the perfect choice for those looking to stay in the heart of historic King’s Lynn. This 18th-century former bank is now an elegantly furnished townhouse with 10 luxurious bedrooms featuring antique furniture and Georgian panelling. Further east, the market town of Swaffham is an excellent base from which to explore inland Norfolk. Here, at the northernmost point of the Brecks, the landscape remains flat, and the big skies are met not by sea but by endless fields of crops and open heathland. The Brecks has a human history stretching back to the Stone Age. A Neolithic flint mine at Grime’s Graves has over 700 pits, some more than 5,000 years old. The distinctive

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Above: The late-medieval Oxburgh Hall has always been a family home

stone can be seen on many of the buildings in the county, especially its churches. Norfolk has 659 medieval churches – the highest concentration in the world. The Brecks is also home to some grand houses, notably the magnificent 15th-century moated manor house of Oxburgh Hall. Home to the Bedingfeld family since 1482, this

England during the period when Catholics were persecuted by law, from the beginning of the reign of Queen Elizabeth I in 1558. Back at Swaffham you will find your ideal home at Strattons Hotel, a splendid Queen Anne Palladian villa that possibly began life as a malting barn. Former guests included Horatia Nelson, daughter of Admiral Nelson

glorious and romantic red-brick house boasts the King’s Room, where King Henry VII stayed in 1487 while visiting with his queen, Elizabeth of York, and some handsome embroidery made by Mary Queen of Scots while in the custody of the Earl of Shrewsbury, following her escape to England in 1568. The Hall is also well known for its priest’s hole, accessed through a trapdoor and open to visitors. These hiding places were built into many of the principal Catholic houses of

and Lady Hamilton, and today the building is packed full of quirky odds and ends, outlandish decoration and a range of extravagant bedrooms. You can pop across the driveway to CoCoes café for a delicious picnic of Norfolk cheeses, local pear juice and chunky sausage rolls, then head off to revel in this county’s wild and wonderful countryside and fascinating heritage.

 For more information on visiting Norfolk go to www.britain-magazine.com www.britain-magazine.com


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Location

SOUTHEAST ENGLAND Dreams of Downton

Architectural wonders dot the region: Brighton’s Royal Pavilion was created as the spectacular seaside palace of the Prince Regent (later King George IV) – its exoticism was the signature Regency splendour of architect John Nash. The contrasting remnants of Richborough Fort in Kent – one of several Saxon Shore fortresses – show the beginning and end of Roman rule in Britain. Stately homes in the region are steeped in tales of residents of grand times past. From Highclere Castle, adored by Downton Abbey fans, to Hatfield House, Blenheim Palace and Cliveden, these fine properties are a great way to delve into the history of the area.

PHOTO:© VISITENGLAND

Located close to both London and the south coast, the southeast is one of the busiest and yet most beautiful places in Britain. From the ‘dreaming spires’ of Oxford, to the undulating hills of Sussex’s South Downs, it truly is a feast for the senses, albeit a splendidly refined one. A land of stately homes and castles, its strategic location means it has witnessed battles and invasions over thousands of years. Battlefields in what is now known as 1066 Country in Sussex, and castles such as Leeds, Bodiam and Arundel are testaments to the defensive strongholds that have been necessary throughout the course of history.

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Southeast England

Love

A labour of

Sissinghurst Castle has been home to pigs and paupers, hosted royalty and nobility, and welcomed thousands of visitors – all of whom are charmed by the romantic legacy bound up in its legendary gardens WORDS MARTHA ALEXANDER

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S

Previous page: View of Vita's Tower from the Rose Garden. Top: Aerial view of the Rose Garden and beyond. Above: Portrait of Vita Sackville-West by Philip de László

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issinghurst Castle in Kent is at the heart of ‘the Garden of England’, and indeed it boasts one of the very best gardens in the county, thanks to the horticultural vision and dedication of celebrated writer and poet Vita Sackville-West and her diplomat husband Harold Nicolson. More than 188,000 visitors flock here each year to marvel at the rambling roses buzzing with bees, admire the scented thyme lawns, enjoy the dreamy white-flower garden, and explore the traditional English Nuttery. But Sissinghurst has had mixed fortunes over the years. Before the couple discovered the estate and transformed its gardens, it had gone from pig farm to Tudor castle to dilapidated ruin in a long and fascinating history. Of these less than glamorous beginnings as a Saxon farm (owned by John de Saxingherste around 1235), and later manor house, only part of the moat that protected it still exists today. By 1490, Sissinghurst belonged to the Baker family. Wealthy Sir John Baker held various important appointments, including Chancellor of the Exchequer, under the reigns of Henry VIII, Edward VI and Queen Mary. It was he who turned the estate into a castle, building the prospect tower and the courtyard house. The magnificent red brick, dual-turreted tower that rises at the centre of the gardens is a reminder of this

period of Tudor grandeur – a time when even Queen Elizabeth I stayed at the estate, from 15-17 August 1573. However, by 1752 Sissinghurst was in very poor condition. During the Seven Years’ War (1756-1763), the house was used as a prison for over 1,000 French sailors who gave it the name Le Château de Sissinghurst. The Anglicised version of the name subsequently became the estate’s moniker. In 1763 the house was destroyed completely and even the foundations were carted away. The adjoining farm became a poorhouse in the late 18th century, offering employment and living quarters for around 100 men. When Vita and Harold first saw Sissinghurst it was a ruin. Fortunately they fell in love with the bare bones of the place and its chequered heritage, seeing the potential in a rather bleak, soggy wreck that had no electricity, no drains and seemingly few redeeming features. It was bought for £12,375 in 1930. In a list that Harold made about the pros and cons of buying the castle he concluded simply: “We like it”. For Vita, moving to this 400-acre estate was something of a homecoming. She had been unable to inherit her childhood home of Knole – a splendid Tudor house once gifted to King Henry VIII – due to primogeniture, but she found out she was in fact related to Thomas Sackville who was son-in-law to a previous owner of Sissinghurst. www.britain-magazine.com


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From the start Harold and Vita (who had a gardening column in The Observer newspaper) were engrossed in the creation of the garden. Harold had a classical approach; he loved Greek architecture, with all of its straight lines and perfect circles, and designed the gardens with these shapes in mind. The spaces he made, Vita filled with flowers. “Cram, cram, cram into every chink and cranny,” said Vita in her column. She never wanted exposed soil in her flowerbeds – a wish that continues to be granted in the overflowing displays today. “Around a third of the plants that you see today are from Vita’s time,” says Sissinghurst’s head gardener Troy Smith. “She designed the garden so that each area would have its moments. She wanted to make sure there was always an area of interest at any time, without diminishing the main climax.” Troy heads a team of 10 gardeners. As you wander around you might find one up a ladder in a walled garden deadheading tea roses, or another mowing a lawn. Occasionally a wheelbarrow will stand unattended, filled with rakes, hoes and gloves – proof that this is always a working garden, alive with effort and elbow grease. The best place to begin exploring Sissinghurst is Vita’s Tower. Built in the 1560s, it contains her study – a cocoon

of books, collections of glass and freshly cut flowers that must have made for one of the most wonderful working environments. In the room above is the Hogarth printing press that was given to Vita by her close friend Virginia Woolf (whose book Orlando is based on Vita). At the top of the tower, accessed by a narrow winding staircase of 78 steps, a weather vane marks the highest point. From here you will see the most spectacular aerial view of the land and gardens below where this summer you can enjoy outdoor theatre in the form of The Pantaloon's History of Britain, which charts our peppered royal past with some of our most memorable kings and queens featured. The garden is divided into separate ‘rooms’, each with a function or colour theme, as devised by Vita. The Top Courtyard at the northwest of the garden can be seen as an entrance hall, with packed flowerbeds, including the purple border, surrounding beautiful and freshly mown lawns. Through a low wooden door into the southwest corner of the garden is the walled Rose Garden, boasting not only roses but also irises of extraordinary hue – deep indigo velvety tongues dashed with mustardy streaks. Puffs of peach-coloured poppies shoot up amongst the

Above left: The archway in the Top Courtyard. Above right: The Rose Garden. Top right: Some of Sissinghurst's beautiful flower specimens

Sissinghurst has gone from pig farm to Tudor castle to dilapidated ruin in a long and fascinating history

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ALL PHOTOS: © NATIONAL TRUST IMAGES/JONATHAN BUCKLEY

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perfectly balanced rose bushes that release a sweet, sugary fragrance. Honeysuckle scales the walls in thick clusters of colour and perfume. The Rose Garden is divided not only by paved pathways and different beds, but also by the rondel, a completely round lawn enclosed by high hedges and ‘corridors’ that lead off to other areas. Nearby, Harold’s Lime Walk leads into The Nuttery, a shady dell packed with trees bearing Kentish cobnuts and hazelnuts. Parallel to this is the Moat Walk, which sees visitors walking on top of where one arm of the moat used to be (the others are still filled with water). The Herb Garden is surprisingly far from the kitchen in the south-west of the garden (“Vita was more interested in herbs for their historical and literary connotations rather than for cooking with,” explains Troy), and is a delightfully fragrant pocket of the estate that offers a more subtle beauty than the riot of colours elsewhere. The living arrangements when Vita and Harold were in residence were rather unusual: they slept in the South Cottage, but ate in the Priest’s House in the north. They entertained guests in the library – an impressive fort of literature with floor-to-ceiling cloth-lined hardbacks. The South Cottage has a garden that Vita and Harold hoped would convey the intimacy, sanctity and homeliness of a bedroom. Although Vita believed in letting flowers and plants be as free as possible – she did not want

a rigid environment that was too manicured or orderly – the Cottage Garden has perhaps the most liberated of all the flowerbeds with pops of yellows and flares of red. Against the wall of the cottage is the beautiful white Madame Alfred Carrière rose, which was the first thing that Vita and Harold planted at Sissinghurst, on the day they bought the estate. In contrast, the White Garden next to the Priest’s House is at the other end of the spectrum, with carefully controlled planting. This is said to be the most popular garden and features flowers of exclusively white, silver or green hues. Although Vita was predominantly in charge of the planting, it was Harold who found many of the flowers that were first planted in the White Garden in the early 1950s. At the centre is a domed gazebo derived from a design by Harold and Vita’s son Nigel Nicolson out of a paperclip maquette. A rambling white rose snakes around the metal work so that when the flower is in full bloom it creates a dreamy floral igloo. The Priest’s House is available as a holiday home and, almost needless to say, it enjoys much popularity and is booked up long in advance. The majority of the garden is orchard: a meadow of wild grass, peppered with clover and buttercups. A dovecote and a Greek altar stand amongst the plentiful apple trees – each of which has roses wrapped around the trunk.

Above: Interior of Vita's cosy study in the tower. Facing page top: The Nuttery. Facing page bottom, left to right: Bright tulips and dahlias

The herb garden is a delightfully fragrant pocket of the estate and offers a more subtle beauty than the riot of colours elsewhere

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PHOTO ABOVE: © CORBIS

Vita wanted to ensure there was a double bloom – with apple blossom in spring giving way to the flowering roses in summer. Paths have been mown allowing visitors to move easily through the orchard – at the most easterly point the view of Vita’s Tower through the trees in the distance is like a scene from a romantic fairytale. Two arms of the moat meet in the north-east corner of the garden, a point also marked by a gazebo gifted to Harold by his and Vita’s sons – Benedict and Nigel – and is a lovely reminder of the family life for which Sissinghurst was a perfect backdrop. Vita passed away in 1962 and Harold in 1968 but now two of Vita’s grandchildren live at Sissinghurst, while it is owned and maintained by the National Trust. Beyond the main garden is a busy organic vegetable patch (providing fresh produce for the estate’s restaurant), two lakes built by Harold, and working farmland with animals. In the Oast House – a building originally used for drying hops – is an exhibition to mark the centenary of Harold and Vita’s marriage, opened in 2013.

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It tells the story of the couple through photographs, diary entries and newspaper clippings. It also includes part of Vita’s wedding dress and a rather exotic velveteen coat that she took on her honeymoon to Egypt. Vita was an 18-year-old debutante when she met Harold Nicolson in London in 1910. Harold was considered Vita’s social inferior and they kept their engagement quiet. Their relationship was unconventional – with plenty of affairs on either side – but despite all of it they remained together at Sissinghurst, bound by their marriage, their friendship, their children and, of course, their beloved garden. “The true love that has survived is mine for you, and yours for me,” wrote Vita to her husband. As the Rose Garden bursts into bloom, there was never a better metaphor for their romance than this perfect space that continues to flourish.

Above: Sissinghurst is like a fairytale castle. Left: The Rose Garden overflows with colour

 For more Sissinghurst photos please visit the BRITAIN website at www.britain-magazine.com/sissinghurst www.britain-magazine.com



HEART OF ENGLAND The Growth of industry

Since the 6th century when it was known as Mercia, the strongest Anglo-Saxon kingdom, the Heart of England has been a hugely prosperous region. Traversed by two of Britain’s biggest rivers, the Trent and the Severn, it benefited from a canal network that has helped turn Birmingham, England’s second largest city, into a thriving metropolis. The Industrial Revolution began in the Heart of England: the world’s first iron bridge was built over the Severn gorge in 1779. The gorgeous Tudor town of Shrewsbury is known as the birthplace of Charles Darwin. However, for many, the Heart of England is synonymous with both William Shakespeare

and Robin Hood. Shakespeare was born in the historic town of Stratford-upon-Avon and visitors to the Warwickshire town can visit his timbered place of birth or watch one of his plays at the Royal Shakespeare Company, whose theatre dates back to the 1930s. According to legend, Robin Hood plied his trade robbing the rich to feed the poor in Sherwood Forest, Nottinghamshire. Of course, perhaps the region’s greatest success stories belong to its potteries. World-famous Wedgwood, founded in 1759, has its headquarters in Stoke-on-Trent, where visitors can take a fascinating journey through 250 years of ceramic production. PHOTO:© EYE35.PIX/ALAMY

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A pretty street in Warwick, overlooked by the towers of Warwick Castle

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Heart of England

On the 450th anniversary of William Shakespeare’s birth we explore his home county of Warwickshire, one of the country’s most historic and picturesque destinations WORDS CLAIRE SANTRY

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n the picture-postcard and chocolate-box markets, one photogenic property has worn the ‘quintessential England’ crown for years: Anne Hathaway’s Cottage in Shottery, Warwickshire. With its thatched roof, dark timber beams and leaded windows overlooking an enchanting garden of roses, sweet pea, hollyhocks, delphiniums and scented honeysuckles, it oozes nostalgia and romance. What could be more delightfully appropriate than this pretty rural setting forming the backdrop to the real-life version of Shakespeare in Love? While the 18-year-old William had to traipse a mile or so over fields from his home in Stratford-upon-Avon to court Anne at her family’s cottage – then called Newlands Farm – today’s visitors typically arrive by car or on the sightseeing bus. Most are quickly seduced by the old farmhouse as they explore the low-ceilinged bedrooms, climb the worn stairways, and view the so-called Wooing Seat where Anne and her much younger beau may have cuddled in front of the parlour’s huge inglenook fireplace. The old settle dates from the right era, but whether it was truly where Shakespeare plighted his troth is open to conjecture. What is not disputed is that the two married in 1582 and baby Susanna was born six months later. For the next five years the couple lived with William’s family in Stratford in the half-timbered building now known as Shakespeare’s Birthplace on Henley Street. Of the five properties owned and managed by the Shakespeare Birthplace Trust, Anne Hathaway’s Cottage is undoubtedly the most intimate and homely, but the most

PHOTOS: © TRAVEL PICTURES/ETER BROWN/ALAMY/GREG BALFOUR EVANS/ISTOCK/LLUSTRATION: © SCOTT JESSOP

Left: Anne Hathaway’s Cottage. Facing page: A narrowboat on the River Avon with Shakespeare's burial place, Holy Trinity Church, in the background

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visited is Shakespeare’s Birthplace, where performers in period dress bring domestic Elizabethan routine to life. For those on the Shakespeare pilgrimage trail, the Trust has another three sites to visit – Hall’s Croft, where Susanna lived with her apothecary husband; Nash’s House and neighbouring New Place, the site of the house where William lived out his final years; and Mary Arden’s Farm, the family home of his mother and a firm favourite with children. There is also Holy Trinity Church, where William, Anne, Susanna and her husband are buried in the chancel. The right to a final resting place in the chancel was granted by virtue of William’s status as a lay-rector rather than his virtuosity as a poet and he lies beneath a grave slab inscribed with the warning: “And cursed be he that moves my bones”. The great poet’s last theatrical line can be read just a stone’s throw from the Royal Shakespeare Theatre (RST), another huge magnet for visitors, whether or not they intend to take in a performance. It is a vast edifice, rising up from the west bank of the River Avon, with a fascinating history. This story is best understood by joining one of the daily tours of the building; the enthusiastic guides can satisfy most queries, including statistical details, architectural history, and the secret stagecraft techniques used for some of the Bard’s most gory scenes. Depending on stage design and rehearsal schedules, the tours usually take in the actors’ ‘quick change’ spaces, wigs and make-up areas, the auditorium with its new thrust stage, and the technical control room, as well as the public areas. Although all visitors are free to wander around the public areas, most of those who don’t join the highly www.britain-magazine.com


The right to a final resting place in the chancel was granted by virtue of William’s status as a lay-rector rather than his virtuosity as a poet

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PHOTOS: © IAN DAGNALL/ALAMY/BL IMAGES LTD/NEIL MCALLISTER/ISTOCK/VIEW PICTURES

recommended tours probably overlook some of the building’s most interesting features and quirks. Who, for example, would recognise the elevated aluminium ticket box in the fabulous Art Deco foyer if it weren’t pointed out to them? Who would grasp the significance of the three chairs looming above diners in the roof-top restaurant? And who would appreciate that the battered-looking floor boards in the main public circulation area are the very stage boards so well trodden by the likes of Laurence Olivier, John Gielgud, Helen Mirren, Judi Dench, Kenneth Branagh and many other famous thespians? For a small fee, a trip to the RST can include an elevator ride to the 32-metre-level of the tower to enjoy a view that might, on a clear day, reach beyond the nearby National Trust properties of Charlecote Park and Baddesley Clinton and the award-winning art gallery at Compton Verney (all worthwhile places to visit in the vicinity), and out across the county into Gloucestershire, Oxfordshire, Worcestershire and Herefordshire. While the lift is the quickest route back to ground level, those with robust joints may prefer to descend via the stairway. With 174 steps, it doubles as a photographic gallery and depicts the chronology of all 37 of the Bard of Avon’s plays, starting at the top with what is believed to be his earliest work, Two Gentlemen of

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Clockwise from top left: The Royal Shakespeare Theatre; Mary Arden's House; a quaint tea shop in Stratford-uponAvon. Facing page: Nash's House and New Place garden; Kenilworth Castle; Bidford-on-Avon

Verona, written c. 1589, and ending with his 1613 work, Henry VIII, on reaching the foyer. Even the most focused literary fan can become rather Shakespeared-out in Stratford and require a change of pace. Some might head for a bit of retail therapy in the small town’s range of high street shops and boutiques, or sample some of its many quaint tea shops, restaurants and pubs. Others will take a cue from the swans serenely gliding along the River Avon and choose to take their relaxation on or by the water. With wide public spaces, gardens and lawns on both banks, an old-fashioned lock opening into a marina filled with cheerfully-painted narrowboats, a bandstand, an old chain ferry and two photogenic bridges with no fewer than 26 arches between them, the town’s riverside is a lovely place to promenade and explore. There’s also the chance to hop on a short river cruise, hire a rowing boat, punt or canoe, play some crazy golf or simply seek out a shady bench beneath a weeping willow and watch the world go by. It can be a busy world at times, especially in high summer or during festivals or special events… just watch out when the rumbustious and totally potty charity raft race rows this way each June. While Stratford-upon-Avon and Shakespeare go hand in hand, the wider county has plenty of other literary www.britain-magazine.com


Heart of England

connections. Nuneaton in the north has George Eliot, Stoneleigh has Jane Austen, Kenilworth has Sir Walter Scott and Rugby has so many it even provides special outdoor seating for those who want to curl up with a good book from one of its wordsmith sons. In truth, any desire to ‘curl up’ soon passes because, despite having the appearance of a Chesterfield sofa, a cosy chaise longue and a Queen Anne footstool, Rugby’s al fresco Reading Rooms are sculpted from Wattscliffe sandstone and set on a granite ‘carpet’. These unusual works of public art, designed and created by Michael Scheuermann, were inspired by the works of Lewis Carroll, Arthur Ransome, Rupert Brooke, Salman Rushdie and other authors connected to the small town, and there are dozens of intriguing devices and allusions to their literature carved into the hard stone. Among them is a piece of real porcelain teacup embedded in the chaise longue to represent the complementary pairing of tea and a good book, and the church clock with its hands at ten to three (“Stands the church clock at ten-to-three? And is there honey still for tea?” from Rupert Brooke). With its place in history assured thanks to a schoolboy who picked up and ran with a football in 1823, Rugby has a strong following on the tourist trail. It also has an attractive Victorian centre with lots of independent www.britain-magazine.com

EDITOR'S PICK: BEYOND THE BARD • Warwick Castle will toast its 1,100th

• In 1602, Shakespeare bought lands

in the Welcombe Hills, to the north of Stratford. Today the area is better known for its glorious country mansion hotel, the Menzies Welcombe (pictured above). With its spa and golf club, fine dining, four-poster bedrooms and grand terraced gardens, this is Stratford’s treat-yourself hotel par excellence. www.menzieshotels.co.uk

anniversary in 2014 with a number of special events and the relaunch of its Kingmaker attraction, which will encapsulate the BBC series, The White Queen, based on Philippa Gregory's bestselling novel. www.warwick-castle.com • Stoneleigh Abbey was once the country seat of Jane Austen’s relatives ‘the Leighs’ and the young novelist found both the house and its family fascinating. So, too, do the visitors who seek out this little-known Warwickshire gem. This year the abbey will be celebrating the 200th anniversary of Austen’s Mansfield Park. www.stoneleighabbey.org • The Heritage Motor Centre, home to the world’s largest collection of British cars, celebrated its 21st anniversary with a special line-up of the best in British design. www.heritage-motor-centre.co.uk

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Heart of England garden, a couple of small exhibitions and, new this year, viewing platforms over the castle grounds where Robert Dudley, Earl of Leicester, romanced but failed to win Queen Elizabeth I. Nothing can beat the hollowed out Cathedral of St Michael in Coventry, in the north of the historical county of Warwickshire, for heart-rending ruins, for no centuries have passed to soften visitors’ emotional responses to the devastation that rained down on the city’s medieval church on 14 November 1940 during its worst Blitz attack. Locals, however, made the journey from destruction to hope when they built a brand new church adjacent to the ruins. From the outside, the huge sandstone bulk of the modern church, consecrated in 1962, doesn’t look very promising. Its architect, Sir Basil Spence, intended this. “The [new] cathedral will be like a plain jewel casket with many jewels inside,” he said, as he set out to commission an array of 20th-century treasures from renowned artists such as American-born sculptor Sir Jacob Epstein and English sculptor Elisabeth Frink. Today, the two parts of the cathedral – the hushed ruins and the impressive modern symbol of reconciliation – are strongly embedded in the city’s psyche, offering a quiet place for locals and visitors alike to enjoy a lunchtime sandwich, view some world-class art, spend time in spiritual reflection, or even read some Shakespeare in one of the country’s most evocative settings.

 For more information and holiday ideas in Shakespeare’s England in 2014 go to www.britain-magazine.com/shakespeare

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Above: Ruins of the ‘old cathedral', Coventry. Right: William Shakespeare's Birthplace

SHAKESPEARE WALKING TOUR

Stratford-upon-Avon celebrated the 450th anniversary of William Shakespeare’s birth on 23 April and events will continue throughout 2014 to mark the occasion. If you want a Shakespearean experience with a difference, Tudor World on Sheep Street is an excellent choice. The foundations of the museum date back to 1196 and the cobblestone carriageway is the only surviving one in Stratford. As you enter the museum's 16th-century Shrieves House Barn, you'll learn about Stratford's history. Shakespeare documented connections with the building and is said to have based his Falstaff character on the tavern keeper. The ‘No Holds Bard Tour’ is guided by an actor who plays the Bard, and visits Shakespeare's Birthplace (above), Halls Croft, Nash's House, his favourite tavern, the Royal Shakespeare Company, and his final resting place (discounted entry included). www.falstaffexperience.co.uk

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PHOTOS: © ISTOCK

shops to browse in, making it one of several interesting Warwickshire towns to stroll around. Another is Royal Leamington Spa, which wears its royal status rather prominently and, some say, a little snootily, but gets away with it on account of its undoubted elegance. Smaller in size, but certainly worth visiting for appealing ‘olde worlde’ charm are Bidford-on-Avon, Shipston-on-Stour, Henley-in-Arden and the unhyphenated, but no less characterful, Alcester. The county town of Warwick also has great browsing credentials, especially for books and antiques, but it’s best known attraction is its giant castle. Warwick Castle is one of the country’s top-drawer heritage sites and fulfils every child’s imaginary medieval fortress wish-list with its round towers, a moat and drawbridge, dungeons and arrow slits, and a seemingly permanent household of fair maidens and chaps in tights. Although its most famous historical tales derive from its 15th-century links with the supremely powerful Kingmaker, Richard Neville, Earl of Warwick, its story actually dates back to before the Norman Conquest. In the castellated ramparts stakes, Warwick’s nearby rival, Kenilworth Castle, is rather less imposing, mainly because it got badly hit in the Civil War. However, when a low sun hits the red sandstone ruins of the 12th-century keep or a bright sky makes a silhouette of John of Gaunt’s Great Hall, no one can deny that it wears its battle scars well. It is a relaxed place to visit, less showy than Warwick, with a restored Elizabethan


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Steam trains, royal resting places and a cathedral await you in this fascinating county whose history dates back a thousand years and from where you can stroll along Britain’s longest river

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orcester city is steeped in history, with the first and last battles of the Civil War being held within its walls, and as the last city to stand up for King Charles II against Oliver Cromwell in 1651, it is forever known as ‘The Faithful City'. At its heart is the final resting place of King John, the magnificent 11th century Worcester Cathedral, which rises up alongside the River Severn and was once a university for monks. The cathedral's library www.britain-magazine.com

still houses ancient medieval textbooks on medicine, law, history, mathematics, physics, and astronomy. Worcester was once an important industrial port for importing and exporting goods along the River Severn. Today, you can walk or cycle along the river’s banks, hire a boat or simply have lunch or a drink in a choice of riverside restaurants. The Museum of Royal Worcester, located close to the river, has a great exhibition on Royal Worcester Fine Bone China, once made by hand in the city. Beyond the riverbanks you can explore quaint streets with independent shops alongside high street retailers, and delve into the city’s past at The Commandery, Worcester City Art Gallery and Museum, Tudor House Museum and Greyfriars' House and Garden (National Trust). Worcester is also a hub for sporting events, with England's prettiest sporting ground at New Road, with first-class cricket being played beneath the stunning backdrop of Worcester Cathedral. The city is also home to Worcester Racecourse, which has 22 race fixtures in 2014, and the University of Worcester Arena, home to premiership basketball team Worcester Wolves: it will host the 2015 European Wheelchair Basketball Championships. Shelsley Walsh Hill Climb is the oldest operational motorsport venue in the world. Learn about England's greatest composer, Sir Edward Elgar at The Elgar Birthplace Museum, just outside the city. Nearby Witley Court, owned by English Heritage, is worth a visit, with its Perseus and Andromeda fountain, which fires 50ft into the air, and Britain's finest Baroque church with Italianate paintings by Antonio Bellucci. South of Worcester you will find Croome Court, a Palladian Bath stone manor house run by the National Trust, which sits within Lancelot ‘Capability’ Brown’s first complete landscape design, with extensive parkland, gardens, a lake and follies dotted throughout. The fertile plains of The Vale of Evesham is further south, home to the Pershore Plum Festival, the British Asparagus Festival, a 50-mile Blossom Trail and farm shops galore. Broadway, in the north Cotswolds, is a beautiful honey coloured village with an iconic tower that looks over the surrounding countryside and the Ashmolean Museum, which plays tribute to the internationally renowned artists. Head north to Britain's premier steam railway, the Severn Valley Railway, which meanders alongside the River Severn. West Midland Safari and Leisure Park is also a great day out for the family while North Worcestershire also has plentiful walking and cycling routes. For more information please visit www.visitworcestershire.org BRITAIN | THE 2014 GUIDE

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to the Peak District With stunning natural beauty and quintessential architecture, this area is picture-postcard pretty

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ocated at the centre of England, the Peak District is one of the country’s premier and most popular destinations. Boasting Britain’s first National Park, it encompasses a wealth of natural and man-made landscapes, ranging from specially protected areas of breathtaking beauty, to classic country houses, distinctive market towns and pioneering industrial heritage. From rugged gritstone moors to rolling limestone dales and lush meadows to leafy forests, the quality and variety of its countryside is second to none. It’s no coincidence that National Trust chairman Sir Simon Jenkins selected five of its most inspiring landscapes – Mam Tor to Stanage Edge, the Roaches, Chatsworth, Dovedale and Kinder Scout – to feature in his book England’s 100 Best Views. Yet there’s more to the area than the uplands of the Dark Peak and Kinder Scout, site of the famous 1932 Mass Trespass, and the gentler contours of the White Peak and Dovedale, inspiration for Izaak Walton’s paean to fly-fishing, The Compleat Angler. Few people are aware that the Peak District encompasses parts of Cheshire, Staffordshire and Yorkshire, as well as Derbyshire. There are also lots of well-kept secrets to discover, such as the Chesterfield area, with its famous Crooked Spire, or the Derwent Valley Mills World Heritage Site, where Sir Richard Arkwright introduced the world’s first factory system. Surrounding cities such as Derby, Manchester and Sheffield are all ideal places to catch up on some culture, dine out in style, splash out on shopping or take in top-class sport and entertainment.

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Charming country houses range from majestic Chatsworth and medieval Haddon Hall to hidden gems such as Renishaw Hall & Gardens, Bolsover Castle, Tissington Hall and its gardens and some of the finest and most varied National Trust properties in Britain. Chatsworth, the historic home of the Dukes of Devonshire, is justifiably known as ‘The Palace of the Peak’, with its treasure trove of artworks, superbly landscaped gardens, 1,000-acre estate, ever-changing exhibitions and popular annual Country Fair. Once described as ‘The most perfect English house to survive from the Middle Ages’, enigmatic Haddon Hall is home to the Manners family, with a unique enchanting atmosphere and delightful terraced, formal and wildflower gardens overlooking the peaceful River Wye. National Trust gems include: Eyam Hall, Calke Abbey, Dunham Massey, Hardwick Hall, Kedleston Hall, Little Moreton Hall, Lyme Park, Quarry Bank Mill, Sudbury Hall and the National Trust Museum of Childhood, and Tatton Park. The Peak District’s historic houses and eye-catching landscapes have also served as the scenic backdrop for everything from prime-time TV dramas to Hollywood blockbusters; Chatsworth appeared in Pride and Prejudice and The Duchess, both starring Keira Knightley, and also in the BBC adaptation of P D James’s novel Death Comes to Pemberley, screened over Christmas 2013. Haddon Hall has featured in no less than three TV and film versions of Charlotte Brontë’s evergreen novel Jane Eyre, as well as making a ‘guest’ appearance in Pride and Prejudice and Elizabeth, starring www.britain-magazine.com

PHOTOS: © LINDA BUSSEY/SARAH WYATT/KAREN FRENKEL/CHATSWORTH HOUSE TRUST

North East England

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Cate Blanchett. Lyme Park stepped into the spotlight when Oscar-winning actor Colin Firth emerged from its lake in a dripping wet shirt and breeches back in 1995, as Mr Darcy in the BBC drama Pride and Prejudice and visitors still flock to see where he won the heart of Elizabeth Bennet. Garden lovers can delight in discovering a kaleidoscope of colour in the Peak District throughout the year – from delicate carpets of snowdrops in early spring through to formal summer borders and rich autumn hues as late season flowers flourish and trees prepare to shed their leaves on the area’s many country estates and woodlands. Glorious gardens complement the area’s historic houses, but there are lots of other hidden gems, such as Hopton Hall or the National Memorial Arboretum. Wild flowers also thrive – from bluebells and orchids in the spring to plush carpets of purple heather cladding the uplands of the Dark Peak in late summer. The tradition of creating living art installations from petals and other natural materials, known as Well Dressing, is unique to the Peak District. Its origins are unclear, but it is believed to have been introduced by the Romans or Celts, to give thanks for the area’s plentiful freshwater springs. Talented volunteers in up to 80 towns and villages decorate their wells with designs inspired by the Bible or special anniversaries between May and September. Most communities see it as the perfect excuse for a party, staging carnivals, processions and other special events – and visitors are more than welcome to join in the celebrations. www.britain-magazine.com

Handsome market towns include Ashbourne, Bakewell, Buxton, Chesterfield, Glossop, Holmfirth, Leek, Matlock and Matlock Bath. Quintessentially English villages range from favourites such as Ashford-in-the-Water, Edensor and Hartington to former hives of industrial activity such as Cromford, or Eyam, where 17th century villagers sealed themselves off to stop the Plague from spreading. The Peak District is also the perfect place to enjoy England’s great outdoors, with some of the finest walking and cycling country in Britain. You don’t have to be a hardened hiker or serious biker – there’s plenty of gentle terrain, such as safe, traffic-free former railway trails, scenic riversides and winding valleys where you can enjoy a relaxing stroll or some stress-free pedalling. Dining out is a delicious treat, thanks to a wide range of cafés, tea rooms, pubs and restaurants serving wholesome, locally produced food and drink. First-class theatre, music, dance, comedy and other live entertainment are staged throughout the year at venues in Buxton, Chesterfield, Derby, Manchester and Sheffield and also at regular festivals, ranging from rock to rarely-performed opera. Internationally-renowned Buxton Festival, which includes a star-studded Literary Series, welcomes visitors from across the globe each July. But whatever time of year you visit, you’re assured of a warm welcome and a wonderful experience. For further information, including hundreds of accommodation options from B&Bs to stylish four-star hotels, visit www.visitpeakdistrict.com BRITAIN | THE 2014 GUIDE

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NORTHERN ENGLAND Breath of fresh air

Walk its cobbled lanes and admire the view of the 11th-century castle and Norman cathedral from Framwellgate Bridge. Durham Cathedral regularly tops polls as ‘Britain’s Best Building’ and is the finest example of Norman architecture that you are likely to see. American author and Anglophile Bill Bryson was so enamoured by the place that he wrote in his 1995 book Notes From a Small Island, “If you have never been to Durham, go at once. Take my car.” Britain’s biggest county is Yorkshire, which is home to some real gems: the elegant stately home of Castle Howard, seat of the Earls of Carlisle; and York, where you can learn about the impact of Viking culture.

PHOTO: ©VISITENGLAND

With the natural beauty of the Yorkshire Dales and the Lake and Peak Districts, as well as a proud industrial heritage, the north of England is both striking and stoic. “Dark and true and tender is the North” wrote Alfred Lord Tennyson, Poet Laureate during Queen Victoria’s reign. His words are as much a nod to the welcoming arms of the people as to the region’s manufacturing identity. Far more than shipyards and scenery, the north is also a historian’s paradise. Ancient wonders such as Castlerigg Stone Circle in Cumbria provide dramatic settings to take in the surrounding countryside, while the medieval town of Durham is just one of the north’s charming historic centres.

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LAKES We head to the Lake District to discover the best way of spending 48 hours in this magnificent mountainous region, from exploring the great outdoors to following the trail of Beatrix Potter WORDS JESSICA TOOZE


Northern England

PHOTO: © CORBIS/ASHLEY COOPER/ROBERT HARDING PICTURE LIBRARY LTD/ALAMY

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he Lake District, probably England’s most famous and picturesque national park, harks back to a bygone era; its villages are small and its people friendly. Narrow lanes wind through pastoral countryside where lambs gambol and streams gurgle, and monuments to modern life are nowhere to be seen. This serene land, marked only by ancient low walls and flint farm buildings huddled in the shadow of steep fells, has inspired some of our best-loved authors, while visitors fall for its rugged charms. We begin at Windermere, where at 10.5 miles-long England's largest lake draws the majority of holidaymakers. While the snow still covers the lofty peaks of the Old Man of Coniston to the west, and before the tourists descend en masse in the summer, this is a jewel of the Lake District – famous local William Wordsworth once said: “None of the other lakes unfold so many fresh beauties”. The small towns of Windermere, Bowness and Ambleside to the northeast attract the most visitors,

but to see the true beauty of this water world you’ll need to get out onto the lake itself, on a traditional launch or steamer, or, if you’re feeling energetic, on a kayak or canoe. Both provide great ways to take in the views and enjoy the peace and tranquility of the water. Off to the

PLACES TO STAY HOLBECK GHYLL From £390 for dinner, bed and breakfast with a suite room in low season. Fine-dining fanatics will be pleased to know the hotel’s restaurant has been Michelin-starred for 12 years and while dinner service is slow and served in two dark wood-panelled dining rooms, the French take on local Lakeland ingredients is worth sampling. www.holbeckghyll.com GILPIN LAKE HOUSE From £485 for dinner, bed and breakfast, the price includes a chauffeur service to and from the main hotel in the evening. Spa treatments are optional extras. www.gilpinlodge.co.uk

Above: A view of Lake Windermere and Waterhead Bay in Ambleside in the Lake District National Park. Facing page: Grange in Borrowdale, Lake District National Park, Cumbria


southern and western reaches of the lake there are often more sheep than people and plenty of waterside walks to enjoy. For simply awe-inspiring views of Lake Windermere and the mountains behind it, head to one of the many hotels that dot the eastern side of the water. We stayed at Holbeck Ghyll, a five minute drive from Windermere town, so named because of the picturesque ravine (ghyll) with its dashing waterfall. The atmosphere here is friendly and relaxed – you can bring your dog and curl up in front of one of the cosy log fires. Bedrooms are of varying appeal but if you manage to book one with a lake view, you will hardly notice anything but that spectacular panorama down to Windermere. When you drift off to sleep, you’ll be lulled by the sound of the falls below. Actress Renée Zellweger stayed

at Holbeck Ghyll while filming Miss Potter and the legacy of Beatrix, the popular author, is evident in this part of northwest England where she spent her childhood holidays and drew inspiration for her countryside characters. A visit to Hill Top, the farmhouse she purchased with the proceeds of The Tale of Peter Rabbit, is easy to reach from the eastern side of Lake Windermere via the eponymous ferry. This has operated in one form or another for over 500 years and takes people, vehicles, horses and cycles from Bowness-on-Windermere to Far Sawrey. Hill Top, now owned by the National Trust and open to visitors, marked a turning point in Beatrix Potter’s life, the start of her deep interest in farming and of her lifelong concern for the preservation and care of the land. The Tale of Tom Kitten clearly takes place in the house and

This page, clockwise from above: Hawkshead; the church at Hawkshead; Holbeck Ghyll Hotel; afternoon tea at Holbeck Ghyll

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You can explore inside Hill Top, which is a treasure trove for the Beatrix Potter enthusiast

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Wonderful Weekends

garden here and visitors today can wander the vegetable patch with its neat rows of lettuce and cabbage where it’s easy to imagine Peter Rabbit’s tail disappearing inside a rusty watering can. You can explore inside the house itself too, which is a treasure trove for the Potter enthusiast and filled with her belongings. Nothing is roped off so you can nose around the author’s cherished possessions to your heart’s content. The Tale of Mr Jeremy Fisher, meanwhile, is set on nearby Esthwaite Water, a lovely 280-acre lake situated between its much larger and betterknown siblings of Windermere and Coniston Water. As Mr Fisher discovers on his lily-pad, the largest stocked trout water in Cumbria is wonderful for fishing. To the north is the village of Hawkshead, home to the Beatrix Potter Gallery, and to the west is the 6,000-acre Grizedale Forest, a popular walking and

mountain biking destination with its dense wooded hills of conifers, dotted with small tarns. Scattered throughout the forest are around 90 sculptures, started by the Grizedale Society in 1977. We searched out some of the less-seen ones on horseback and set off from Grizedale Riding Centre at Bowkerstead Farm on a peaceful hack up some steep trails, the views stretching over the forest towards distant mountains. Underfoot the springy ground is heavy with moist moss, springs gush from high hills and jump down towards the valleys in tumbling waterfalls, and fast-flowing streams rush towards those great tarns that give this land its name. It falls from the sky too – when the rest of England is parched under a hosepipe ban, the Lake District is lush and verdant. But for visitors who come to the Lakes to enjoy the great outdoors, the weather is no hindrance, and

Springs gush from high hills, jumping down towards valleys in tumbling waterfalls

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Above: A view of the Lake District's undulating hills. Left, above: Gilpin Hotel Lake House. Left, below: Bedroom in Gilpin Hotel

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This photo: Lake Windermere at sunset

suites, a sauna, swimming pool and private tarn, not to mention a brand new spa. It offers a warm and friendly retreat where you can relax with a private treatment in your suite before the chauffeur arrives to drive you the mile or so to the main hotel for dinner. The Lake House also boasts lovely gardens with a path round the tarn and magnificent walks to the viewpoint ‘Cat’s Crag’, which offers 360-degree vistas of the green countryside. Whatever your reason for visiting this stunning pocket of England and whatever your itinerary, the lure of these quiet hills and deep, still lakes is so irresistible that you will yearn to return the second you leave. Don’t say we didn’t warn you.

Set out on a wonderful walk, ramble or climb, with routes suitable for all

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 For more on the Lake District and Potter country visit the BRITAIN website at www.britain-magazine.com/lakedistrict

LAKE DISTRICT ITINERARY WINDERMERE FERRY runs regularly throughout the year and costs 50p for a single pedestrian journey, £4.30 for cars. www.cumbria.gov.uk HILL TOP costs £8.50 for adults and the house is full of Beatrix Potter’s favourite things, as if she'd just gone out for a walk. www.nationaltrust.org.uk/ hill-top BEATRIX POTTER GALLERY costs £5 for adults and £2.50 for a child and offers exhibitions of Potter's original watercolours. It was previously the office of her husband William Heelis. www.nationaltrust.org.uk/ beatrix-potter-gallery RAMBLERS COUNTRYWIDE HOLIDAYS have a leisurely week-long

walking holiday embracing the Lake District’s famous authors. www.ramblersholidays.co.uk/ page/the-lazy-lakes GRIZEDALE FOREST has a host of activities for the adventure enthusiast. www.visitlakelandforests.co.uk GRIZEDALE RIDING CENTRE at Bowkerstead is a traditional working farm and campsite on the edge of a forest where all the horses have been rescued. A one-hour ride is £25. www.cumbriahorseriding adventures.co.uk DRUNKEN DUCK INN AND RESTAURANT offers lunch, afternoon tea and dinner. To the rear of the traditional Lakeland building, the inn also has weekend rooms from £140. www.drunkenduckinn.co.uk

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PHOTO: © ISTOCK

there are endless ways to explore the landscape, dotted with long snaking lakes, forested valleys and England's highest mountains. You can hire a bicycle and test yourself against the countryside, or set out on a wonderful walk, ramble or climb. The birthplace of British fell walking and mountaineering still draws thousands of people looking to absorb the scenery on foot. But after you have exhausted yourself outdoors, home comforts are not hard to find. We had a delicious traditional Sunday roast at gastro pub the Drunken Duck Inn, about 2.5 miles from Hawkshead, while in the village, the Sun Cottage Cafe attracts tourists and locals with the gigantic strawberry-covered chocolate cake in its window. For true indulgence, head to the family-owned Gilpin Hotel & Lake House where there are six individual


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SCOTLAND

Land of lochs and glens Scotland has seen great kings and queens, from Mary Queen of Scots, the iconic executed queen, to King James IV, the last ruling monarch to die on the battlefield, but these are just some of the characters that peppered Scottish history before it united with England and Wales in 1707. Legend surrounds how Saint Andrew became patron saint of Scotland but his remains are thought to have arrived in Fife in the 5th century. He had become patron saint by around 1000 AD and has since remained a national symbol. Elsewhere the town of St Andrews is home to the university where Prince William, Duke of Cambridge, met his wife Catherine.

PHOTO: ©VISITBRITAIN/JOE CORNISH

This atmospheric land has captivated visitors since time immemorial. Scotland delights with its jagged coastline and remarkable cities that mark the northernmost point of the British Isles. It boasts the highest number of islands of any British country: almost 800 of them are scattered around its craggy crest, from Skye to the Hebrides. At the signing of the Declaration of Arbroath in Angus in 1320 – one of the most famous moments in Scottish history – it became independent. Robert the Bruce assumed the throne as King of Scots and won the nation’s hearts. Dumfries and Galloway are still cluttered with caves, fields and buildings telling of his battles and rule.

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Scotland

Year of

This photo: Howie Nicholsby, a kilt designer from Edinburgh, is one of the ambassadors of Homecoming Scotland 2014 www.britain-magazine.com

PHOTO: Š VISITSCOTLAND

In 2014 Scotland invites the world to join in the exciting Year of Homecoming with a 12-month programme of events and activities designed to showcase the country's magnificent highlights

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Above: Loch Tummel in autumn. Left: Lonach Highlanders. Below: Viking dress in Orkney

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CELEBRATE YOUR SCOTTISH ROOTS

With 50 million people worldwide claiming Scottish ancestry it is no surprise that heritage will play a key role in Homecoming Scotland 2014. There are

several events in Scotland's festive year aimed at attracting dispersed nationals back to the country, including: • The Year Of Ancient Ancestors Festival from 15 May to 25 October in Caithness will shed light on northern Scotland’s links with both the Picts and the Vikings. The main events are Pictish Caithness (15-18 May), Viking Caithness (5-13 July) and the Vetrarblot Festival (24-25 October). • The Scottish Diaspora Tapestry Exhibition and Events Programme is a project that will see a huge embroidered panel tapestry depicting the story of Scottish migrants through the centuries come together and tour the country until November.

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cotland has experienced many important years throughout its tumultuous history, and 2014 promises to be another. Homecoming Scotland is a year-long extravaganza that incorporates the Ryder Cup, Glasgow 2014 XX Commonwealth Games, the 700th anniversary of Scotland’s most famous battle at Bannockburn and a whole host of other events and festivities. Scotland enjoyed a highly successful ‘Year of Homecoming’ back in 2009, but this time the sheer scale of the event is unprecedented. It aims to fire the imaginations of the estimated 50 million people around the globe who claim Scottish heritage and anyone else charmed by the romance of this fascinating country. The hope is to persuade people to visit, but the year can also be enjoyed whether you make it to Scotland or not, with plenty happening online, and TV coverage of major events. More than 250 events have been announced, with five main themes. ‘Active’ focuses on the plethora of adventure and outdoor activities; ‘Food and Drink’ on the country’s world class produce, such as beef, seafood and, of course, whisky; and ‘Creative’ delves into the artful side of this culturally vibrant nation. ‘Natural’ opens up one of Europe’s most spectacular landscapes and, finally, a key theme given the massive diaspora out there, ‘Ancestry’, allows people to celebrate their Scottish heritage. Homecoming began, of course, with Hogmanay, that uniquely Scottish celebration of New Year. At the end of

2014 festivities will once again descend on the capital, Edinburgh, where a massive fireworks display will illuminate the landmark castle at ‘The Bells’ (midnight). Alongside Hogmanay, Burns Night is one of the biggest events on the Scottish calendar as the country’s national poet is joyously celebrated across the country. It takes place every year on 25 January (don't miss it in 2015), the anniversary of the poet Robert Burns’s birth, and involves spectacular Burns Supper occasions with haggis (sheep’s internal organs), whisky, singing and dancing. At the meal, guests stand as bagpipers ‘pipe in’ the haggis, while the Master of Ceremonies or host recites the Address to the Haggis, a traditional Scottish poem. At the end of the recital, a Scotch whisky toast is proposed to the haggis before guests drink to the good health of the ‘laddies and lassies’.


Scotland Robert Burns, born in 1759, is Scotland’s best-loved poet, whose famous works fed the growing literary taste for romanticism and pastoral pleasures of the day. TradFest Edinburgh, the only multi-arts festival dedicated to Scottish culture, celebrates poets such as Burns and Robert Louis Stevenson each year in May. The first edition was in 2013 and typically the festival features the country’s leading traditional artists who help the public weave together both the wonderful ancient culture of the clan days and more modern aspects of Scottish culture. Scotland is an evocative land that swirls in myth and legend, a country awash with historic battlefields where the famous Highland clans once crossed swords with English intruders, Roman invaders and each other. One battle, though, stands out in the Scottish psyche, and that is the Battle of Bannockburn. In June 1314 Robert Bruce, King of Scots, faced the English army led by Edward II. Edward, wanting to retain the stronghold of Stirling Castle, had led a large army through Scotland to end the siege of his garrison at the castle. Achieving this was vital to his hopes of regaining a grip on the country. Over two days of battle, 23 to 24 June, Edward’s army was thwarted by the Scots’ resistance, finding themselves trapped by the surrounding terrain with no room to manoeuvre. The result was an unprecedented defeat for King Edward’s army as Robert the Bruce’s heavily outnumbered Scots forced them back south of the border ‘tae think again’, heralding in centuries of Scotland as an independent country. Once a royal hunting park, the battleground that lies near the historic city of Stirling, still evokes the landscape that the many thousands of soldiers who fought and died in the battle will have seen. As part of Homecoming 2014, from 28 to 30 June, 700 years on from that fateful day, the National Trust for Scotland will be staging the biggest ever re-enactment of the battle: Bannockburn Live. In addition the three-day festival will boast villages where visitors can sample Scottish food and drink as well as enjoy sports, crafts and literature, with plenty on hand for younger ones, too.

Above: The Firth of Forth Rail Bridge at North Queensferry. Below: Robert Ballantyne, re-enactor and historian, at Stirling Castle

EUROPEAN PIPE BAND CHAMPIONSHIP 28 June, Grant Park, Victoria Road, Forres, Moray, Thousands of pipers and drummers in over 100 bands will compete in Piping Hot Forres European Pipe Band Championship, which is supported by the Royal Scottish Pipe Band Association. Local producers will also be showcasing the best of their food and drink, led by title sponsor Benromach Scotch Whisky.

THE WICKERMAN FESTIVAL 25 - 26 July, Dumfries and Galloway Celebrate Homecoming Scotland 2014 by attending Wickerman – one of Scotland’s best-loved independent music festivals. Featuring an eclectic mix of leading artists, alternative acts and up-and-coming talent, this two-day summer party is an unmissable event for music lovers.

WORLD SHEEPDOG TRIALS 3 - 6 September, Tain, Ross-shire The World Sheepdog Trials, which will include 240 competitors from 24 nations worldwide, is to be staged in Scotland for the very first time in 2014. The trials will be about showing the care, skill and dedication of a man or woman working with their dog to control a flock of sheep, as has been done for hundreds of years.

HIGHLAND HOMECOMING 1 September onwards A two-month-long celebration of contemporary Highland culture, Highland Homecoming begins with the Inverness Highland Meeting and culminates with Mòd Nàiseanta Rìoghail – The Royal National Mòd, Scotland's premier Gaelic festival of language, arts and culture.

FINDHORN BAY ARTS FESTIVAL 24 - 28 September, Moray Findhorn Bay Arts Festival will bring the magic and mayhem of Shakespeare's Scottish tragedy Macbeth to life within the grounds of Moray's magnificent Brodie Castle as part of Homecoming Scotland 2014. The festival programme will feature a world premiere of Macbeth: the Red King , a new promenade performance designed specifically for the site. Situated around one of the world’s most spectacular coastlines, the Moray Firth, the festival will also present a dynamic programme of arts and cultural events taking place in the coastal villages of Findhorn and Kinloss and the historic market town of Forres.

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The biggest event of all during Homecoming 2014 is not, however, a battle re-enactment but a sporting fiesta. The XX Commonwealth Games, held in and around Glasgow between 23 July and 3 August, is the biggest multi-sports competition in the world after the Olympic Games. It features teams from around 70 countries, including all parts of the UK, British territories and other members of the Commonwealth. The 17 disciplines range from badminton and boxing through to shooting and triathlon. Scotland will be competing in its own right and the partisan crowds will be right behind the Scots involved. The Edinburgh Festivals in August already make up the largest arts extravaganza in the world. The Edinburgh International Festival dates back to the post-Second World War days of austerity in 1947, when it was started in an attempt to lift the city’s morale and is the landmark event. It is accompanied by the likes of the massive Festival Fringe, the Mela and the International Book Festival and, of course, The Royal Edinburgh Military Tattoo, which brings a sparkling array of military pomp and the skirl of bagpipes to Edinburgh’s dramatically floodlit castle. In

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Top: Massed pipes and drums on the esplanade of Edinburgh Castle. Above: Calanais Standing Stones, Isle of Lewis

2014 all the Edinburgh festivals will be boosted with special Homecoming add-ons. Moving much further north towards Scotland’s 800 islands, August also sees the Harris Tweed Hebrides Tattoo. Staged out in the dramatic Outer Hebrides in Stornoway, the tattoo will find Lews Castle rumbling to the sounds of performances from nine pipe bands, hailing from Canada, Scotland and beyond. Dancers from all over the Scottish Hebrides will converge, and the elaborate finale will include massed Gaelic choirs, pipe bands and a spectacular fireworks display that will erupt over Stornoway. Saturday 9 August will be a carnival day with bands and floats parading through the town, before an evening concert in the new Lochside Arena. Highlights include the best bagpipers around, as well as Gaelic and contemporary music of the Hebrides. Back in the Central Belt, the Forth Bridges Festival, from 4 to 13 September, marks the 50th birthday of the iconic Forth Road Bridge. When it was completed in 1964 it was the largest suspension bridge in the world outside of the United States and it is strongly reminiscent of San Francisco’s Golden Gate Bridge. The party will be focused

ROYAL EDINBURGH MILITARY TATTOO In 2014 the Royal Edinburgh Military Tattoo will be especially poignant. The Massed Bands, Pipes and Drums of the Royal Marines will perform the refrain of the Lone Piper against the backdrop of Edinburgh Castle in August, accompanied by troupes of singers. www.edintattoo.co.uk

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Scotland

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on the settlements of North and South Queensferry, which will see an attempt to stage the world’s largest ever sit-down lunch. The bridge will also close for a parade of vessels that will patrol the waters below, including tall ships and warships. The festival culminates with a massive pyrotechnics display, set to cost double the amount usually spent on fireworks at Edinburgh’s world-famous Hogmanay display in a normal year. September also sees the biggest event in world golf, the Ryder Cup, fittingly returning to Scotland – ‘The Home of Golf’ – for its 40th tournament. Gleneagles in Perthshire will be the scenic setting for the showdown from 26 to 28 September between 24 of the best golfers in the world, half of them from the United States and the other half from Europe. The captains for this titanic tussle are legendary golfers Paul McGinley and Tom Watson. Tickets will be available for the big event and there will be a Ryder Cup Opening Concert on 24 September in Glasgow with Scottish music, film, fashion and culture providing a thrilling prelude to the main event. For those not in the elite golfing community, Homecoming 2014 offers an alternative with a Scottish theme in the form of the Dean’s Scottish Clans Golf World Championships in the last week of June. The event is open to golfers from around the world who have ancestral links to Scotland. It is as simple as entering your clan name and joining the competition for the title of Dean’s Scottish Clans Golf World Champion, which is decided over four rounds of golf. The event also sees genealogy events and entertainment, including pipe bands and ceilidhs. Nothing is more quintessentially Scottish than the Highland Games or Gathering. Two of the biggest, The Cowal Highland Gathering in Dunoon (in August) and The Braemar Gathering in Deeside (in September), will

BANNOCKBURN LIVE Bannockburn Live will represent the best that contemporary Scotland has to offer through an exploration of the past from a distinctively 21st-century perspective. Over three days, thousands of people will come to the site of the Battle of Bannockburn and experience an event like no other – a unique take on this turning point in Scotland’s history. From a battle re-enactment to some of the country’s best known artists exploring what it really meant, through music, theatre, literature and performance – it will be a truly inclusive event.

take on a special Homecoming flavour in 2014, as will the Inverness Highland Meeting from 12 to 14 September. By the banks of the River Ness you can enjoy an unforgettable Highland Games in the form of the Masters World Championships, which will see over 100 international heavyweights competing in traditional Highland sports such as the caber toss. As Homecoming 2014 draws towards a close it is appropriate that a seminal Scottish talent known throughout the world should be celebrated. Glaswegian architect and designer Charles Rennie Mackintosh is the star of Creative Mackintosh 2014 from 11 to 26 October. His architecture, design, and arts and crafts will all be flagged up in his home city, from the intricate furnishings that grace the city’s museums, through to the drama of his landmark House for An Art Lover. There will be a range of events, with everything from exhibitions and talks, to drama performances and children’s activities. Whether or not you manage to visit Scotland yourself this year make sure you follow all that is happening, because 2014 is set to be a very special year indeed.

Clockwise from top: Jacobite steam train passing over the Glenfinnan Viaduct ; statue of Robert the Bruce at Bannockburn; the clansmen's tug of war competition at the Lonach Highland Gathering and Games

 For more information download our Homecoming Scotland 2014 guide at www.britain-magazine.com/scotland www.britain-magazine.com

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FOR THE SKYE The Scottish Highlands are spellbinding and those that make the journey to its remote corners are in for a real treat WORDS JOSEPHINE PRICE

This picture: Dungevan Castle is the oldest continually inhabited castle in Scotland www.britain-magazine.com

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has served as a lifeline for the island’s remote communities. The Old Man of Storr, a lone stone pinnacle, is a strange mystical point marking the vista over Portree. The Isle of Skye is home to the oldest continually inhabited castle in Scotland: Dunvegan Castle. Perched upon the shores of Loch Dunvegan, it is the ancestral home of the chiefs of the Clan MacLeod and has been so for over 800 years. The defensive Hebridean fortress stands strong overlooking the loch and gives some sense of what life must have been like for members of the unbroken line of occupancy of Clan chiefs. The beautiful gardens that sprawl the Dunvegan estate were originally created in the 18th century and today feature a myriad of peaceful glades, cascading waterfalls and vibrant plant life. The wilderness of the island is evident in the fact that you can ramble for hours without even a sniff of civilisation. The isle remains sparsely populated with people but it is abundant with wildlife and is a fantastic place to spot red deer, otters, eagles and Scottish wildcats. It was to the Isle of Skye that Bonnie Prince Charlie, the Scottish monarch, fled during the Jacobite uprising of 1745. According to legend his defiance ended in bloody defeat at the Battle of Culloden in 1746 after an epic manhunt through the western Highlands. His flee rendered him a romantic figure in historical representations and his associations with Skye have resulted in folklore and folk songs such as the ‘Skye Boat Song’, which tells the tale of the monarch's escape to Skye aided by the Jacobite heroine Flora MacDonald. The isle can be seen as a microcosm of Scotland, making it a truly wonderful destination, which is ever popular with those who love Britain, and with rugged beauty like this it’s not difficult to see why it is regularly voted one of the best islands in the world.

 Go to the BRITAIN website at www.britain-magazine.com/scotland to discover more about this beautiful part of Britain www.britain-magazine.com

PHOTOS: © CHRISTOPHE BOISVIEUX /CORBIS/THE PRINT COLLECTOR /VISIT BRITAIN/ROD EDWARDS

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he Isle of Skye is the largest and best known of the Inner Hebrides islands. A veritable natural delight – with sweeping coastlines and rocky horizons – it has a raw beauty that's hard for other islands to compete with. To the south, a stunning skyline is perforated with the craggy range of the Cullin Hills. Known as ‘Munros’ (mountains over 3,000ft) these are home to some of the most challenging walks in Britain as their uneven terrain makes for a true escapade for ramblers who scramble across the rocky ridge on the Trotternish Peninsula. It is sites like this that are testament to the geological marvels that scatter the island. The desolate yet dramatic atmosphere seduces its guests with crystalline lochs, which take on a glacial appearance, set against the lonely landscapes, that veer seasonally from verdant hills to scenes of rocky isolation. Neist Point, at the most westerly protrusion of Skye, is a secluded gem worth the journey. A lighthouse perched upon the sheer cliffs of the headland makes for idyllic postcard material with the rocky bays below. The bays are reminiscent of those at the Giant’s Causeway in Northern Ireland – legend tells that the original causeway still runs under the water from County Antrim to Skye. It is also a fantastic place to spot some of the beautiful sealife that can be seen around the island: whales, dolphins, porpoises and basking sharks. Waternish is another peninsula that epitomises the untamed land of Skye. Home to ancient clans, 6th-century ruins and the oldest inn on the island, Stein Inn, the history on this northwest point truly abounds. Here stargazers can catch a glimpse of the magical aurora borealis as Waternish boasts the darkest night skies in Britain. These brooding landscapes are perfectly juxtaposed against the pastel houses that line the harbour of the capital and main port town of Portree. As the largest town on the island, it is full of life. The great engineer Thomas Telford designed its pier in 1818 and the port


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Facing page: Colourful houses line the harbour in Portree, the main town of the island. Clockwise from above left: Charles Edward Stuart (Bonnie Prince Charlie) fled to Skye during the Jacobite Uprising, aided by Flora MacDonald; looking up to the Cullin Hills, which at over 3,000ft high are known as 'munros'; there are few houses in this remote region of Scotland; rocks on the shores of Loch Scavaig

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Location

WALES

PHOTO: ©VISITBRITAIN/LEE BEEL

Celtic wonderland

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Cymru, or Wales to give it its English name, is a rich landscape of castles, mountains and bustling modern cities – ideal for anyone with an interest in Celtic history. The most celebrated castles are at Caernarfon, a UNESCO World Heritage Site with distinct polygonal towers and birthplace of the first English Prince of Wales in 1284 (son of King Edward I); and Conwy, a medieval walled town with a 13th century castle on the Conwy Estuary. The Pembrokeshire Coast, one of three national parks in Wales, steals the show when it comes to natural landscapes: jagged cliffs, sandy beaches and wooded hills stretch

over 243 square miles. It’s home to varied wildlife, including puffins, while the 6th century St David’s Cathedral sits on the country’s western tip – the final resting place of the patron saint of Wales. Cardiff is a major tourist draw for its 11th century castle, its regenerated bay, the iconic Millennium Stadium and the National History Museum, Wales’s most-visited heritage attraction. Swansea, along the south coast, is an equally charming city with sprawling golden sands, castles and world-class museums, such as the Dylan Thomas Centre, a tribute to the nation’s favourite poet who was born here in 1914.

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This picture: The postcard-pretty harbour town of Tenby

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A WELSH

Turquoise seas, golden beaches and emerald countryside make southwest Wales an idyllic yet often overlooked holiday destination. We set out to bring you the best bits of this remote corner of Britain WORDS JESSICA TOOZE

PHOTO: Š THE PHOTOLIBRARY WALES/ALAMY

Fairytale


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Lying on the estuary of the River Taf in Carmarthenshire, Laugharne offers spectacular views in a wonderfully peaceful and tranquil location. Thomas’s house, the Boathouse, sits snugly against a cliff above the water and mudflats, and his writing shed is a little further along, both with the spectacular views that inspired his prose. Today the writing shed remains much as he might have left it when taking a break to walk along the coast path (or slip out to the pub). A table, chair and small stove remain, a jacket flung carelessly over the seat, and discarded drafts litter the floor. The house is now a museum containing original furnishings, memorabilia and a bookshop, and there is a pretty café where you can sit on the terrace and enjoy the view. Perhaps the best way to immerse yourself in Thomas’s poetry, however, is to set out on one of his favourite walks. From the Boathouse, head towards the imposing remains of Laugharne Castle. Thomas spent a great deal of time here in the 1940s,

PHOTOS: © CW IMAGES/ALAMY/SEBASTIAN WASEK/PETER HORREE/THE GROVE/THE CORRAN/ ROSS GRIEVE PHOTOGRAPHY

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ross over the magnificent Severn Bridge and into Wales and it’s immediately evident that you are leaving England and entering quite a different land. Of course, road signs are written in Welsh, but it is the alteration in general appearance and culture that becomes obvious. With its rocky hills, plunging cliffs and lush valleys, physically the country shares similar characteristics with other Celtic lands – Ireland, Cornwall, Scotland and Brittany – as well as a love of folklore and legend. From the earliest mentions of King Arthur, to the legacy of the druids, Wales is steeped in the tales and mythologies of old. One of Wales’s greatest raconteurs from more recent times is Dylan Thomas (see page 118 for more on this year’s centenery events). It is in the town of Laugharne (pronounced Larne), where he lived from 1949 until his death in 1953, that we begin our journey. Laugharne has embraced the local poet, and references to Thomas can be located everywhere.

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with his friend the author Richard Hughes, in the gazebo of the castle’s formal gardens. It’s a truly beautiful spot and at the foot of the castle walls a stream ripples under a low bridge and past a picturesque picnic lawn. From the castle a flower-lined path winds upwards into the woodland, signposted Dylan’s Birthday Walk; the trail inspired a poem Thomas wrote on his 30th birthday – A Poem in October – which describes the very views you can see today. The route is steep in places, but benches along the path offer perfect points to stop for a breather – each is inscribed with phrases from the poem. Once you emerge from the trees the views are quite stunning. A few miles further inland and you will come to The Corran Resort & Spa, incongruously huddled amidst the wild marshlands, its neighbours a few scattered farms and herds of hardy sheep. Here you will find a relaxing retreat – a welcome slice of luxury amidst rural Wales. The standout features are the rooms – we stayed in the striking www.britain-magazine.com

Penthouse suite in the main house, which is huge and dramatic with its red and black colour scheme, and yet still welcoming and homely. The dining room is spectacular, too, a clever mix of old and new décor with views over the walled garden from the floor-to-ceiling windows. We leave Carmarthenshire behind now and travel westward to Pembrokeshire, home to some of the most beautiful beaches in Britain, not to mention a national park. The first town you’ll come across is Narberth, which appeals mainly due to its high street of boutique-style shops. This is the capital of the Landsker Borderlands, referring to the division between Cymric (Welsh) north Pembrokeshire and the anglicised south. The area is also home to the wonderfully bleak Carew Castle – its grey stone rises up from a large millpond in desolate splendour, like Charlotte Brontë’s Thornfield Hall in Jane Eyre, after the fire. The smartest hotel nearby is undoubtedly The Grove, an elegant

Facing page, clockwise from top left: Wild flowers cling to the Pembrokeshire coastline; Laugharne Castle; The Corran Resort & Spa Above: St Govan's Chapel, built in the 14th century. Left: The Grove Hotel

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‘A Medieval Misadventure’

VISITOR ATTRACTION

Join us with our guides on a journey of discovery exploring the sights and sounds of Chaucer’s medieval pilgrimage to this historic city. Hear five of Geoffrey Chaucer’s most entertaining tales of love, romance, jealously and trickery as they are brought vividly to life for you to enjoy along your way. Open Daily - St. Margaret’s Street, Canterbury, Kent, CT1 2TG

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spectacular 186-mile coastal path that traces the county’s edges. Here you will discover some fascinating historical gems, including the Norman baronial castle at Manorbier and the tiny St Govan’s Chapel near Bosherston, which is wedged into a rock halfway up a cliff face just above the crash of the waves. The appealing seaside towns of Tenby and Saundersfoot are good places to start – Tenby in particular is a picture-perfect coastal resort, with pretty pastel houses peering down behind medieval town walls, all perched on top of steep cliffs over a sweeping stretch of bay and a colourful harbour. In Welsh, Tenby means ‘little fortress of the fish’, and tiny St Catherine’s Island, linked to the mainline at low tide, is home to St Catherine’s Fort. Built during the Victorian period due to concerns about the strength of the French Navy, today the fort is deserted – although children adore the island’s secret caves and poke around in the rock pools left by the retreating tide.

PLACES TO STAY THE CORRAN Rooms start from £250 in the week and £275 at the weekend for bed and breakfast and use of the spa. www.thecorran.com THE GROVE A classic room starts from £190. It is well worth booking dinner too – the dining room has a hushed and reverential atmosphere, which suits the fine-dining cuisine, but the staff are very friendly. www.thegrove-narberth.co.uk ST BRIDES SPA HOTEL Rooms without a sea view start from £150 including breakfast and a 90-minute session in the thermal suite. These rates range up to £290 for rooms with a wonderful sea view and a large balcony. www.stbridesspahotel.com

Above, from left: Pembrokeshire is home to the largest colony of puffins in southern Britain; a tempting invitation, Saundersfoot; Tenby lifeboat station. Left: The infinity pool at St Brides Spa Hotel. Below: Coastal path

PHOTOS: © BONKERSABOUTWALES/ALAMY/ISTOCK/RUPERT BRYCE-MORRIS

country house set in the heart of Pembrokeshire’s quiet and picturesque countryside. Sweeping lawns swathed in colourful spring bulbs lead up to the Georgian mansion that sits alongside four cottages and a 15th-century long house. Inside, you will find a refined blend of country charm and contemporary luxury. The rooms are stylish and comfortable, a careful combination of cast-iron baths, traditional florals and tasteful fittings, and there is a cosy library and games room that one imagines every wealthy British country dweller must own. The standout feature is the food. And when it’s this good, you hardly notice much more than the delicate presentation of each dish, the melt-in-your-mouth sirloin of Welsh beef or perfectly pink loin of Brecon red deer, and the bounteous wine list. If you can tear yourself away from The Grove, you cannot visit Pembrokeshire without making the most of its incredible coastline, which is itself a national park – one of the main draws of this region is the

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This picture: The Norman baronial castle at Manorbier is a surprise gem

be St Brides Spa Hotel. Perched high above Saundersfoot harbour the hotel is light and modern and has a wonderful restaurant with menus featuring locally-sourced seafood and lovely views across the harbour, beach and coastline. Make sure you book one of the seafront rooms, many of which have large balconies where you can sit and take it all in. The real draw of this hotel though is the spa – and in particular its saltwater infinity pool, which appears to drop off into the sea far below. When we visited there was a light drizzle, but it was strangely pleasant to luxuriate in the warm water and watch the swooping seagulls that flew within touching distance in the mist as the rain fell.

Set out on a wonderful walk, ramble or climb, with routes suitable for all

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 For more information on the places we mention here visit the BRITAIN website at www.britain-magazine.com/wales

WONDERFUL WALES ITINERARY

BOSHERSTON LILY PONDS are best in late spring and in summer, when the lilies are in flower. Broad Haven South is a safe family bathing beach within walking distance from the foot of the lakes. Take tea at Stackpole Quay. www.nationaltrust.org.uk/ stackpole CAREW CASTLE displays 2,000 years of development from a Norman fortification to an Elizabethan country house. Open March to October it costs £4.75 for adults. www.pembrokeshirecoast.org.uk

THE DYLAN THOMAS BOATHOUSE is open May to October and Easter weekend and costs £4.20 for adults. www.dylanthomasboathouse.com LAUGHARNE CASTLE costs £3.80 for adults and is open from April to October. cadw.wales.gov.uk/daysout/ laugharnecastle MANORBIER CASTLE costs £5 for admission and is open from March until the end of September. The house within the castle walls is available for holiday stays all year round. www.manorbiercastle.co.uk

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PHOTOS: © CORBIS/PETER BARRITT/ALAMY

The coast corkscrews either side of Tenby revealing beguiling bays such as Barafundle, a pale expanse of sheltered sand that can most quickly be reached with a good trek over the dunes from Stackpole Quay. Continue your walk westwards and a spectacular stretch of the coastal path leads along cragged cliffs topped by windswept farmland where pretty long-maned Welsh ponies graze to Bosherston Lily Ponds, owned by the National Trust. Created in the 18th century for fishing, these large ponds are a real treat for wildlife-lovers – on our walk in late April the lilies weren’t yet out but we spotted all manner of birds including a fearless cormorant that seemed to pose for pictures as we passed. If you are patient enough, you may even spot the otters that live here. One of the best bases from which to explore this stretch of the coast has to


Royal Mile – Edinburgh

Making Edinburgh’s Hidden History Unmissable

Imagine Who You’ll Meet? For hundreds of years the true story of the Close has remained untold – until now! The Real Mary King’s Close is situated just off Edinburgh’s Royal Mile and is a unique, historical, 5 star attraction. Join an expert guide to explore deep beneath the streets and experience what life was really like for those who lived, worked and died here.

Tel: 0845 070 6244 www.RealMaryKingsClose.com

Pre-Booking Recommended


This picture: You can still visit Dylan Thomas's boathouse on the Taf estuary

MANY WORDS This year marks the 100th anniversary of the birth of Dylan Thomas, with events taking place across England and Wales offering insight into the life of this genius poet and writer

D

ylan Thomas is regarded by many as Wales’s finest ever poet and this year his admirers will flock to his homeland to attend some of the many Dylan Thomas 100 festivities. The celebrations are a tribute to a literary visionary and go some way to cementing his global reputation; a marked contrast from during his lifetime when he was at times dismissed as a hellraiser, a drunk and a Lothario. Thomas was an unlikely hero: short, curly-haired, tubby, often wearing second-hand suits and never far away from his next drink. Yet perhaps the biggest criticism levelled at Thomas was linguistic; he was deemed too English to be Welsh and too Welsh to be English. While it is true that the talented poet wrote his works in the English language, Thomas took much inspiration from his native Wales, including Laugharne, home to his boathouse and writing shed, which visitors admire for its splendid views across four estuaries. Thomas wrote much of his famous radio play Under Milk Wood, here taking inspiration from the town and townsfolk. Born in Swansea in 1914, Dylan Thomas left school at 16 to pursue a career as a reporter. It was around this time that he began to fill notebooks with his early poems, some of which would be published as

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18 Poems in 1934. But Thomas’s journalism career was short-lived, and he soon turned to poetry full-time, refusing to align himself to a particular literary movement and incorporating elements of both Romanticism and Modernism into his work. Thomas married Caitlin Macnamara in 1937 and the couple had two sons and a daughter. To support his family, Thomas earnt a modest income by working for the BBC and as a scriptwriter during the Second World War (he was exempt from ‘joining up’ due to an ongoing lung condition). To supplement his income, Thomas toured the US, giving readings of his poems, including his most famous verse, Do Not Go Gentle Into That Good Night, published in 1952. America welcomed Thomas as one of their own; he spent time in the bohemian district of Greenwich Village and influenced the likes of Bob Dylan (who may or may not have taken on the poet's name, depending on who you listen to) and actor Richard Burton. Bedazzled – A Welshman in New York (August-September 2014), at the Ffotogallery in Cardiff, Swansea and New Quay will give visitors a chance to explore Thomas’s unique relationship with the US. Read on to discover more of the cultural highlights taking place as part of the Dylan Thomas 100 festivities...

ALL PHOTOS: © CROWN COPYRIGHT/VISIT WALES

WORDS BEN GRAFTON

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The Dylan Thomas Centre in Swansea was recently awarded almost £1 million from the Heritage Lottery Fund and is arguably the best place from where to begin your Dylan Thomas centenary celebrations. The Dylan Thomas Notebook Exhibition (31 May-31 August) displays the poet’s four poetry notebooks written between 1930 and 1934 as well as his Red Prose Notebooks. They are accompanied by extracts from letters that detail the creative writing process, and a self-portrait Dylan drew on the back of a letter to the English writer Pamela Hansford Johnson. This will be followed on 2 October by a Dylan Thomas National Poetry Day event and the 17th annual Dylan Thomas Festival (27 October-9 November), which includes a weekend focusing on war poetry. Dylan Thomas lived at the boathouse in Laugharne with his family between 1949 and 1953 finding the stable environment that he needed to thrive. The first poem Thomas wrote in his writing shed overlooking the Taf estuary was Over Sir John’s Hill, in which he describes the view from the shed, birds stalking their prey and bringing death in the midst of this undulated beauty. As part of the Dylan Thomas centenary events, performance poet and Young People’s Poet Laureate for Wales, Martin Daws will perform alongside dancers and musicians at the boathouse, showcasing his ability to improvise and collaborate with jazz musicians. There will also be readings from Gillian Clarke, National Poet for Wales. Brown’s Hotel just opposite is where Thomas used to like to “moulder’ and write at a wrought iron table facing the door and for the budding writer, Laugharne is a truly inspiring setting. Dylan Thomas was a man of unique creative talent and with contemporaries including Charlie Chaplin and Salvador Dalí, fans are spoilt for choice with the Literature Wales journey through his many worlds. Guided by some of Wales’s best writers and artists, you can travel by boat up the Taf estuary at sunset with Guy Masterton, the actor and nephew of Richard Burton; punt along the Cherwell in Oxford, where Thomas spent time writing, with novelist, poet and dramatist Owen Sheers; see the cinemas that Thomas frequented with author and scriptwriter Andrew Davies; ride a horse-drawn carriage to Fern Hill with Gillian Clarke, and retrace Dylan’s steps in Fitzrovia with comedian Griff Rhys Jones. A bronze statue outside Dylan Thomas’s childhood home at 5 Cwmdonkin Drive, Swansea, is just one of several new additions to the city as part of the Dylan centenary celebrations. Fans with an eye for visual brilliance can enter a photographic competition with a difference at the Dylan Thomas Birthplace. All you need is a digital camera, a smartphone or a tablet and your mission is to capture one photo of 10 Dylan-related subjects over an eight-hour period. Prizes are at stake for the winners and the competition is followed by an exhibition. Nearby Cwmdonkin Park, one of Thomas’s favourite childhood haunts, features heavily in the radio broadcasts Return Journey and Reminiscences of Childhood and inspired his famous poem The Hunchback in the Park. A memorial stone with lines from Fern Hill, was placed in the park in 1963 and recent renovation work has made it an appealing stop for Dylan Thomas tourists. Three events take place within the annual Swansea Festival of Music and the Arts’ two-week programme (4-18 October). The Welsh National Opera, The Philharmonica Orchestra, the BBC National Orchestra and the Chorus of Wales are just some of the incredible musical performers taking part in this festival, which includes the Wales premiere of A Dylan Thomas Trilogy by John Corigliano; a choral-orchestral work by the 70 year-old New York composer which sets three of Thomas’s poems to music: Fern Hill, www.britain-magazine.com

Poem in October and Poem on his Birthday. Corigliano attributes his lifelong fascination with Thomas’s poetry to “the words, which are as the sounds of bells, of musical instruments.” Both London and York will play host to the theatre adaptation of what is arguably Thomas's most famous work – the radio play whose omniscient narrator details the dreams and innermost thoughts of the inhabitants of a fictional small Welsh fishing village called Llareggub (read it backwards for the full Thomas effect), Under Milk Wood. This performance is directed by Terry Hands, the former director of the Royal Shakespeare Company, and following tours in Wales, the play will come to York and London. In December 2014, the play will then make the transatlantic crossing to the United States, playing in New York, Chicago, San Francisco and Los Angeles. Thomas’s affinity with the US continued up until his untimely death on 9 November 1953 at the age of 39 in a New York hospital. The coroner cited “pneumonia, swelling of the brain and a fatty liver”, as a cause of death. Returning from the pub to the famously decadent Chelsea Hotel in New York on that fateful night he is said to have boasted, “I’ve had 18 straight whiskies… I think that’s the record”. Historians doubt the veracity of these words, yet in his own typically offbeat style, Dylan Thomas had secured his legend as a maverick poet.

 Go to the BRITAIN website at www.britain-magazine.com/thomas for more on Wales's favourite son and the events to mark his centenery year.

Above: The final resting place of the famous poet. Facing page, top row, left to right: Thomas with his wife Caitlin; interior of his writing shed. Middle row, left to right: The birthplace of Dylan Thomas, 5 Cwmdonkin Drive; statue of Thomas in Swansea Marina. Bottom row, left to right: the Dylan Thomas Centre; Laugharne Castle BRITAIN | THE 2014 GUIDE

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NORTHERN IRELAND Where giants fear to tread

cave is known for the eerie sounds made by the waves that crash against it. According to legend, a drunken piper went into the cave and never came out – after midnight it is said you can hear him playing his pipes under the hearthstone of a house in Ballycraigy. Meanwhile, Rathlin Island, home to an Iron Age fort, a 14th century castle and a 16th century tower house, has links to Scotland’s Robert the Bruce. He is said to have regrouped here in 1306 before returning to face King Edward I of England in 1307. From the Giant’s Causeway, to the Mourne Mountains and three areas of natural beauty: Binevenagh; the Causeway Coast; and the Antrim coast and glens, Northern Ireland is a rich cultural tapestry.

PHOTO: © ISTOCK

The land of Saint Patrick is a place of undeniable beauty where striking rock formations jut out into uncompromising seas, all watched over by majestic mountains. But the ancient land of Northern Ireland, where man has lived for 9,000 years, is not just a place of natural beauty – it has inspired tales of giants who built causeways and stories of tragic heroines torn from their true loves. Saint Patrick brought Christianity to Ireland in the 4th century and the neighbouring counties of Armagh and Down are known as Saint Patrick’s Country – you can even visit his grave at Downpatrick. One site bound to send shivers down your spine goes by the name of Devil’s Churn. Situated just outside the town of Larne this

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‘LEGENDERRY’ TRANSFORMATION This city of many names has endured centuries of upheaval, but following last year's tenure as the UK's City of Culture it is now shaking the shackles of its troubled past and reinventing itself as a city of artistic note WORDS LINDA MCCORMICK

This picture: The Peace Bridge over the River Foyle opened in June 2011 www.britain-magazine.com

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PHOTOS: © ALAMY/ALAN NOVELLI/TONY SMITH ILLUSTRATION: JANE WEBSTER


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PHOTOS: © JOEFOX/ALAMY/SUPERSTOCK/ REALIMAGE

Facing page, clockwise from top left: Free Derry Corner played a pivotal role in the events of Bloody Sunday; peace mural painted on a house in the Bogside area; Derry is famous for its ancient walls; Hands Across the Divide, a sculpture by Maurice Harron. Above: St Columb's Cathedral

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liding upriver, a fire-breathing monster seeks revenge on St Colmcille, the founder of Derry, for banishing it to the depths of Loch Ness 1,500 years earlier. A dramatic confrontation ensues on the River Foyle as monster and monk battle it out again, culminating in an explosive fireworks display marking the end of The Return of Colmcille festival. This epic event, masterminded by director Danny Boyle (the man responsible for the opening ceremony of the London 2012 Olympic Games), was a highlight of Derry~Londonderry’s City of Culture festivities last year.. Christened Derry~Londonderry since its inauguration as the UK City of Culture 2013, the city with many names was originally called Doire (pronounced Dth-ra, in local Gaelic), meaning ‘Oak Grove’, particularly one on an island surrounded by water or peat bog. The name described its environs perfectly. One of the channels crossing a marshy, boggy area at the base of the island of Doire eventually dried out and became known as the Bogside, an area now synonymous with the city. Doire acquired the name Doire-Colmcille in the 10th century when Colmcille, or St Columba, who set up a monastery here around AD549, became its patron saint. The monastic settlement enjoyed relative peace until the 14th century, when the Normans took over the city, resulting in Richard de Burgh becoming the Earl of Ulster. At this time, Ulster was still not under the English Crown. But in 1607 the Gaelic earls finally fled leaving Ulster leaderless and effectively paving the way for ‘The Plantation’ of the province.

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In an effort to claim Ulster, King James I of England/ VI of Scotland invited merchants from various London corporations, or guilds, to ‘plant’ loyal followers in the city – mainly Presbyterians. The city of Derry, a shining example of a plantation city, was granted a royal charter by King James and given the prefix London – to show its association with the crown. The planters laid a new town plan, which included building walls around the city to defend it from possible reclamation. Londonderry was the last walled city to be built in Europe, and is one of the finest examples of a complete walled city still standing. Martin McCrossan, who has been running guided tours of the city for 20 years, says, “The favourite part of the tour for most visitors is being able to walk along the well-preserved walls, which are now 400 years old.” He is certain that the City of Culture status has stimulated people’s interest in Derry~Londonderry and the tours: “We have seen a notable increase of around 30 per cent,” he said. Initiatives such as Walls 400 – an event to mark the 400th anniversary of the walls, which began in June 2013 and will host a series of projects until 2018, are expected to draw even more visitors. One of the most significant events in the city’s history began in 1688, when troops of the ousted Catholic King James II of England attempted to take control of the garrison. James hoped to launch a campaign from Ireland to regain his crown from William of Orange. But Derry’s Protestant inhabitants were fearful of a massacre and a group of 13 apprentice boys closed the BRITAIN | THE 2014 GUIDE

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Coronation St ™ & © ITV Studios Ltd. 2013. Licensed by ITV Broadcasting Limited. All Rights Reserved.

Walk down the famous cobbles A unique opportunity to walk down the famous cobbles of Coronation Street and take a tour behind the scenes of the Quay Street set. Guides will share fascinating facts and stories from over 50 years of filming at the site before its move to MediaCityUK. Coronation Street The Tour is open for a limited time so please book early. Book online today www.coronationstreettour.co.uk Tour Highlights Visit some of the interior sets where key scenes were filmed, never before opened to the public. Have your photograph taken in the bar of the Rovers Return. See exclusive props and memorabilia from Coronation Street’s history. Get a first hand insight of how the show was made here. Walk down Coronation Street on the famous cobbles. Continuum Leading Attractions. Engaging stories. Memorable places. Working with ITV to bring this special opportunity to walk the cobbles of the nation’s street.


Northern Ireland

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Right: Beech Hill Country House Hotel. Below: A tranquil spot behind the Guildhall and the Exchange Building

PLACES TO STAY

BEECH HILL COUNTRY HOUSE HOTEL Just two miles from the city centre, this luxurious country house surrounded by thick woodlands dates back to 1622, before the Siege of Derry. The existing house was built in 1793 to replace the previously burnt out mansion and is most famous for being the first US naval base in Europe during the Second World War. TROY HALL Built in the 1890s, Troy Hall is a five-star bed and breakfast, located just five minutes from the city centre. This grand, red-bricked Victorian manor was once part of a larger estate, but now only the main house remains. THE COACH HOUSE Set in the grounds of Learmount Castle and Forest Park, 15 miles from the city, The Coach House offers luxurious 5-star accommodation in a wonderfully tranquil location.

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PHOTOS: © SUPERSTOCK

gates on the attacking army, heralding the start of the Siege of Derry. For 105 days, the people of Londonderry fought against canon fire and mortar bombs, with both sides existing in quite appalling conditions. On 18 April 1689, King James II, frustrated that the city wasn’t already taken, arrived at the gates demanding the city submit to the Crown. Cries of “No surrender” went up; a slogan that continues to be used by the loyalist population today. Around 7,000 lives were lost in the Siege of Derry, and today the same canons used in the crossfire stand sentinel on walls that have never been breached, giving Derry the nickname ‘The Maiden City’. During the 18th and 19th centuries, Derry became a popular emigration port for those seeking a better life in the United States of America, mainly due to the introduction of Penal Laws preventing Catholics and Presbyterians from extending their areas of worship, but also due to the Great Famine (1845 to 1852), which caused widespread disease and starvation. During the Second World War, the position of the city on the edge of the Atlantic saw it play a key role in the war effort. The first US naval base in Europe was set up at Beech Hill Estate, only a few miles from the city centre. After the end of the war, Derry became a leader in the textile industry, with many employed in the shirt factories. In the 1970s though mass unemployment caused much civil unrest and it was during this decade that ‘The Troubles’ really took hold. Unionists and loyalists, who

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 For more information on Derry~Londonderry, please visit the BRITAIN website: www.britain-magazine.com/derry

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Below: A fireworks display marks the opening of the Peace Bridge. Right: Fountains in front of the Guildhall; bottom: The Craft Village

RECOMMENDED MUSEUMS AND PLACES OF INTEREST

THE GUILDHALL Standing near the banks of the River Foyle, this impressive red-brick building was erected by the City & Guilds of London and houses Derry City Council. It reopened recently after extensive renovations and depicts the history of the city within its magnificent stained glass windows. THE TOWER MUSEUM This museum contains two separate exhibitions, The Story of Derry and An Armada Shipwreck, La Trinidad Valencera, one of the largest ships in the Armada fleet sent to Ireland in 1588. It sunk after a storm in nearby Kinnagoe Bay, Donegal, (across the border) and was only discovered in 1971. MUSEUM OF FREE DERRY Retelling the story of the Civil Rights Movement in the late 1960s and Troubles of the 1970s, this little museum in the Bogside is earmarked for redevelopment later in the year. ST COLUMB’S CATHEDRAL Sitting high on a hill in the middle of the walled city, the Planter’s Gothic style St Columb’s Cathedral is remarkably well preserved. It houses the original keys to the

city and a number of historical documents dating back to the 1600s. ST EUGENE’S CATHEDRAL Following the Catholic Emancipation of 1829, many restrictions on Catholics were eased, allowing them greater freedom to practise. It took another 40 years for the go-ahead to build a Roman Catholic cathedral in the city. St Eugene’s was opened by the Bishop of Derry in 1873. WORKHOUSE MUSEUM Opened in 1840, the Workhouse was built in the Waterside area of the city and catered for the poverty- and famine-stricken population until its closure in 1948, when it became a hospital. Original artefacts and archives are now on display, showing what life was like in this strict existence. CRAFT VILLAGE Step back in time in this reconstructed village that melds an 18th-century street with a 19th-century square, hidden behind the Georgian shop fronts of Shipquay Street. It is a quiet retreat from the busy city streets where people can relax and enjoy a pot of tea or a pint.

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PHOTOS: © SUPERSTOCK/THE IRISH IMAGE COLLECTION/ALAMY/CHRIS HILL/NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC IMAGE COLLECTION/MATTHEW LOGUE

mostly came from the Protestant community, wanted Northern Ireland to remain within the United Kingdom. Meanwhile, Irish nationalists and republicans, mainly from the Catholic community, wanted it to leave the UK and join a united Ireland. The Battle of the Bogside riot in 1969 revealed tensions in the city to be at an all-time high. In January 1972, an anti-internment march descended into chaos when the British Army fired live rounds into the crowd, killing 14 people. The events of this day later became known as Bloody Sunday. Since this tragedy, Derry has been closely linked to The Troubles, but it is an image the people of the city are now successfully moving on from. In June 2011, the Peace Bridge was opened, in a bid to improve relations between the Protestant and Catholic communities, and the old Ebrington Barracks used by the army for many years and a symbol of the unrest has now been turned into a community space. Derry’s music and art scene is positively thriving, with last year's Fleadh Cheoil na hÉireann – the biggest festival of Irish culture in the world – drawing crowds of up to 300,000 people and 20,000 musicians to the city. Highlights for this year include the Maiden City Festival and the Foyle Folk Festival, which celebrates one of the city's biggest cultural assets – music. Walking across the Peace Bridge to the newly refurbished Ebrington Square, the excitement in the air is almost palpable. The next generation isn’t focusing on Derry’s troubled past; it is only looking forward, keen to embrace new technologies, new times, a new beginning.


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PLAN YOUR NEXT TRIP Stately homes, museums, and historic palaces – use our attractions directory to make sure you get the most out of your days out

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For a key to symbols please see page xx


Directory

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ritain is home to a plethora of exciting and interesting things to do, and each region has its own identity just waiting to be explored. In London you can look past the main draws and discover new sides to this constantly evolving city. Northern Ireland is home to natural wonders that have inspired mythology, while the southwest of England is brimming with seaside retreats. Culture vultures may want to delve into the industrial heritage of the north or the Heart of England, while Downton Abbey fans could well find their dreams met in the southeast. Wales and Scotland are both home to unique traditions, while bird lovers flock to eastern England. Use our directory to decide where you might want to visit and what to do when you get there. No need to thank us, just get out there and enjoy Britain.

KEY TO SYMBOLS Information

DIRECTORY 136

LONDON

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SOUTHEAST ENGLAND

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EASTERN ENGLAND

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SOUTHWEST ENGLAND

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HEART OF ENGLAND

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NORTHERN ENGLAND

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SCOTLAND

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WALES

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NORTHERN IRELAND

Shop Plant sales Corporate hospitality/functions Disabled access Refreshments/café/tearoom Restaurant Guided tours Audio tours Parking available Education – school visits Suitability for dogs No dogs Accommodation PHOTO: © VISIT BRITAIN-

Civil wedding license Open all year Special events Accept euros

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London ST PANCRAS INTERNATIONAL STATION www.stpancras.com EUSTON ROAD, LONDON, N1C 4QP T: +44 (0) 207 843 7688 E: commentsstpancras@networkrail.co.uk

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he Queen reopened St Pancras International in November 2007, placing a new destination on the map of iconic London venues. With its mix of international and domestic customers, it’s as much an airport as it is a station, but it is also a lot more. The St Pancras Grade I listed building was restored to its original Victorian grandeur, complete with key architectural features; the Arcade, Grand Terrace and Barlow Shed Roof, together with the St Pancras Renaissance Hotel, setting the standard for quality and sensitive renovations across Europe. The station has over 50 retailers, wine bars and

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restaurants. The eclectic mix of retail encourages both independent and highly regarded brands, such as Fortnum & Mason, providing a varied shopping experience for the 48m visitors that come through the station each year. The station’s exceptional architecture is complemented by its arts programme, which includes statues, exhibits and frequent musical interludes.

OPEN: 24 hours a day, every day except Christmas Day. ADMISSION: Free of charge.

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London

ROYAL MUSEUMS GREENWICH www.rmg.co.uk KING WILLIAM WALK, GREENWICH, LONDON, SE10 9NF T: +44 (0) 20 8312 6608 E: bookings@rmg.co.uk

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oyal Museums Greenwich covers four world-class museums: the National Maritime Museum (NMM), Royal Observatory, Cutty Sark and the Queen’s House, all situated within Royal Greenwich Park land, the heart of the Maritime Greenwich World Heritage Site. Uncover the world’s largest maritime collections at the NMM, as well as contemporary, temporary and permanent exhibitions and events. Take a trip to the Royal Observatory, home of Greenwich Mean Time, (GMT), and one of the most historically significant scientific sites in the world. Climb aboard

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the newly-reopened Cutty Sark, one of the world’s most famous ships. And don’t miss the Queen’s House, a picturesque 17th-century royal house displaying international art, including works by Gainsborough and Turner. OPEN: Open daily 10am to 5pm, although the NMM has late opening on Thursdays, with last entry at 7.30pm. ADMISSION: Free admission to the NMM (charges for special exhibitions), Queen’s House, and Astronomy Centre at the Royal Observatory. Fees apply for the Cutty Sark (Adult: £13.50, Child: £7, Concession: £11.50) and Flamsteed House and Meridian Courtyard at the Royal Observatory (Adult: £7, Child: £2.50, Concession: £5.50).

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PHOTO: © IMAGES REPRODUCED BY KIND PERMISSION OF THE TRUSTEES OF THE WALLACE COLLECTION.

London The Laughing Cavalier, Frans Hals, 1624

The Swing, Jean-Honoré Fragonard, 1767

THE WALLACE COLLECTION www.wallacecollection.org HERTFORD HOUSE, MANCHESTER SQUARE, LONDON, W1U 3BN T: +44 (0) 20 7563 9500 E: enquiries@wallacecollection.org

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he Wallace Collection is a national museum, like some of London’s grandest institutions, but its particular charm lies in its intimacy. Here the works of art are displayed in a lavish and beautifully restored former home and the tastes of one extraordinary family of collectors remain preserved. The 5,470 objects include a world-class array of 18thcentury French art; masterpieces by the likes of Titian, Canaletto, Rembrandt, Hals, Rubens, Velázquez and Gainsborough; Britain’s finest collection of princely arms and armour; and superb medieval and renaissance objects. Continuing a sympathetic refurbishment programme, the Great Gallery will reopen on 19 September. With, striking red silk walls, a revised lighting system and gilding, the display

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features paintings from different countries in the same space. Most great Baroque artists respected their contemporaries and knew each other or their work. Viewers can explore works by Poussin and Claude, Murillo and Velázquez, Rubens and Van Dyck, and Rembrandt and Ruisdael, and discover a fascinating network of exchanges across Europe. The Wallace Collection stages free exhibitions, talks and events throughout the year, and houses a beautiful glazed courtyard restaurant. The perfect place to escape the crowds of the West End. OPEN: The Wallace Collection is open daily (except between 24 and 26 December), from 10am to 5pm. Admission is free of charge.

The Oval Drawing Room

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London

MORDEN HALL PARK www.nationaltrust.org.uk/mordenhallpark MORDEN HALL PARK, MORDEN HALL ROAD, MORDEN LONDON, SM4 5JD T: +44 (0) 20 8545 6850 E: mordenhallpark@nationaltrust.org.uk

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ith diverse landscapes and habitats, from wetlands and meadows to rivers and rose gardens, this former deer park is London’s gateway to the countryside. One of the few remaining estates lining the River Wandle. the park allows visitors to take tranquil and leisurely strolls following the meandering river through all its glorious settings. Now owned by the National Trust, Morden Hall Park holds many events throughout the year to suit every audience. Events not to be missed during 2014 include Beer by the River festival on Saturday 30 August (costs £10). Join us this summer for our family day out. There’ll be local food and real ales brought from across

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South London. We also have vintage games so there’s plenty of fun to be had along the way. The Summer Theatre runs every weekend in August for a summer of fun in the open theatre set amongst the perfumery of the rose garden. From Shakespeare to Alice in Wonderland and History of Britain, there is something for everyone. Check the website for more details. Christmas Festive Fun throughout December brings festive frolics for all ages, from dressing the main Christmas tree and Santa’s grotto to shopping and much more.

OPEN: Every day except Christmas Day and Boxing Day, 8am to 6pm (5pm in winter). Free entrance.

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London LONDON KAYAK TOURS

FULHAM FOOTBALL CLUB

www.londonkayaktours.co.uk WINDSOR (SL4), HAMPTON COURT (KT7 0QQ), REGENT’S CANAL T: +44 (0) 845 4532002 E: info@londonkayaktours.co.uk

www.fulhamfc.com STEVENAGE ROAD, LONDON SW6 6HH T: +44 (0) 843 208 1234 (option 4, 9am – 5pm Mon – Fri) E: cottagetours@fulhamfc.com

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loat along the Thames and its canals and see London from a unique angle on your own personal vessel with London Kayak Tours. View the historic Hampton Court Palace, see the wildlife along Regent’s Canal or glide past the royal home of the Queen at Windsor Castle. London Kayak Tours’ at Windsor and Hampton Court locations include a glass of bubbly and tuition. 2-for-1 offer at Regents Canal. Tour prices start at £19.99. OPEN: Five days a week and weekends. Times vary please see www. londonkayaktours.co.uk for details. 2-for-1 price cannot be used with any other offer or on Bank Holidays. Children pay same as adults and must be over nine years of age. Under 12s must be supervised by an adult at all times.

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raven Cottage exudes the character and history befitting London’s oldest professional football club. Step through the listed turnstiles of the 19th-century ground and explore a truly unique Premier League stadium. Your tour includes locations such as the Johnny Haynes Statue, pitch-side dugouts, the Cottage Balcony, and the team changing rooms.

OPEN: See the website for details.

BANK OF ENGLAND MUSEUM

CHELSEA PHYSIC GARDEN

www.bankofengland.co.uk/museum BARTHOLOMEW LANE, LONDON, EC2R 8AH T: +44 (0)20 7601 5545 E: museum@bankofengland.co.uk

www.chelseaphysicgarden.co.uk 66 ROYAL HOSPITAL ROAD, LONDON SW3 4HS T: +44 (0) 20 7352 5646 E: enquiries@chelseaphysicgarden.co.uk

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his fascinating museum tells the story of the Bank of England since its foundation in 1694 to its role in today’s economy. Interactive displays, audio-visuals, games and artefacts help explain its many and varied roles. There’s even a genuine gold bar, which may be handled. Check out the website for special events and exhibitions taking place throughout the year. OPEN: Monday to Friday, 10am to 5pm. Admission and events are free. Talks are available to groups of between 15 and 50 people free of charge but must be booked in advance. See website for more details.

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ucked away beside the Thames, the Garden celebrates the beauty and importance of plants. Founded in 1673 by the Worshipful Society of Apothecaries to study the medicinal qualities of plants, this walled garden became one of the most important centres of botany in the world. Features include Europe’s oldest rockery, the Garden of Edible and Useful Plants and, new for 2014, the Garden of Medicinal Plants.

OPEN: 1 April to 31 October 2014. Tues to Fri, Sun and Bank Holidays 11am – 6pm.

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London

PICCADILLY MARKET AT ST JAMES’S CHURCH

THE CINEMA MUSEUM

www.piccadilly-market.co.uk 197 PICCADILLY, LONDON, W1J 9LL T: +44 (0) 20 7292 4864 E: marketmanager@sjp.org.uk

www.cinemamuseum.org.uk THE MASTER’S HOUSE, 2 DUGARD WAY, LONDON, SE11 4TH T: +44 (0) 20 7840 2200 E: info@cinemamuseum.org.uk

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ince opening in 1981, Piccadilly Market has established a reputation as a great place to shop for perfect gifts and unusual souvenirs. From Wednesday to Saturday, arts and crafts are sold, while Tuesday offers predominantly antiques and collectables, and Monday specialises in good food. The market is located in the courtyard at St James’s Church in the heart of the West End – just yards from Piccadilly Circus.

he Cinema Museum’s fascinating and comprehensive collection encompasses every aspect of going to the pictures, from architecture, to Art Deco décor and fittings from the cinemas themselves, to the ephemeral marketing materials and posters that promoted the films. An entirely volunteer run museum, we offer guided tours and run an interesting and unusual events programme.

OPEN: Times by appointment. Admission for tours: £10 (£7 concessions). OPEN: The market is open from Monday to Saturday between 10am and 6.30pm (Monday 3.00pm) throughout the year.

STRAWBERRY HILL

REGENT’S CANAL WATERBUS

www.strawberryhillhouse.org.uk 268 WALDEGRAVE ROAD, TWICKENHAM, TW1 4ST T: +44 (0) 20 8744 1241 E: enquiries@strawberryhillhouse.org.uk

www.londonwaterbus.com LITTLE VENICE W9/CAMDEN LOCK NW1 T: +44 (0) 20 7482 2660 E: canaltrips@londonwaterbus.com

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trawberry Hill began life in 1698 as a modest house, transformed by Horace Walpole, the son of Britain’s first Prime Minister, into a “little gothic castle”. It soon attracted curious tourists and is now considered Britain’s finest example of Gothic Revival architecture and interior decoration. Explore the house with the aid of a guidebook written by Horace himself, enjoying the award-winning restoration of the interiors and a unique collection of Renaissance painted glass. OPEN: 1 Mar to 9 Nov. Weekends 12noon until 4.20pm (last entry) and Mon, Tues and Wed 2pm until 4.20pm (last entry). Closed Thurs and Fri. Christmas: 7-8 and 13-14 Dec, 12pm until 4.20pm. Adults: £12. Under 16s free. Other concessions may apply.

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ruises on the historic Regents Canal, along the quiet and leafy fringes of Regents Park. From the elegant tranquility of Brownings Pool at Little Venice, through the Maida Hill Tunnel and London Zoo to the lively bustle of Camden Lock Market. Trips one way or return or with entry to London Zoo at our own canal gate. No booking required.

OPEN: Daily service April to September, 10am to 5pm. Reduced service October to March. FARES: Adult from £8.20. Child from £6.70.

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London WEMBLEY STADIUM TOURS

FAULTY TOWERS THE DINING EXPERIENCE

www.wembleystadium.com/tours WEMBLEY STADIUM, HA9 0WS T: +44 (0) 844 800 2755 E: tours@wembleystadium.com

www.faultytowers-uk.com CHARING CROSS HOTEL, THE STRAND, LONDON, WC2N 5HX T: +44 (0) 845 154 4145 E: bookings@faultytowers.net

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he Wembley Stadium Tour allows all visitors unprecedented behind-the-scenes access to the UK’s largest and most prestigious stadium. These award-winning guided tours of ‘The Cathedral of Football’ include entry to the England team’s dressing rooms, the press room, players’ tunnel, Royal Box and much more. Historical artefacts include the 1966 World Cup crossbar, the 1966 Jules Rimet Trophy, the original flag from London’s 1948 Olympic Games and The Original FA Cup from 1911. The perfect sports experience for groups of all sizes!

HOUSES OF PARLIAMENT www.parliament.uk/visiting WESTMINSTER, LONDON SW1A 0AA T: +44 (0) 20 7219 3000 E: hcinfo@parliament.uk

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nside one of Britain’s most iconic buildings, audio or fully guided tours of the Houses of Parliament offer visitors a unique combination of 1000 years of history, modern-day politics, and stunning art and architecture. Both tours start by following the route taken by The Queen at the State Opening of Parliament; from The Queen’s Robing Room, through the Royal Gallery and Prince’s Chamber, and into the majestic Lords Chamber. Tours then move on to Central Lobby, Members’ Lobby and one of the voting lobbies before entering the Commons Chamber, scene of many lively debates. Passing through St Stephen’s Hall,

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asil, Sybil and Manuel serve a 3-course meal and all the best gags in a ‘2-hour eat, drink and laugh sensation’ (The Daily Telegraph). This year-round West End show also appears at Edinburgh Fringe, selling out every year. Highly improvised and fully immersive, it is ‘deliciously entertaining from start to finish’ (What’s on London). Ranked in the Top 10 London performances by TripAdvisor so book ahead. ADMISSION: Evenings and matinées, Friday to Sunday. Tickets from £47. Tickets include 3-course meal and 2-hour show. Special hotel rates available.

the tours end in 900-year-old Westminster Hall where Guy Fawkes was tried, and in more recent years Nelson Mandela addressed Parliament. As an optional extra, it is now possible to take afternoon tea in the Terrace Pavilion overlooking over the River Thames.

OPEN: Saturdays year round and selected weekdays during holidays, including Easter, summer and Christmas. All tours are on a timed ticket basis and are available in English and a number of other languages. ADMISSION: Audio tours: adults £17.50, concessions £15. One child’s audio tour free with each paying adult, otherwise £7. Guided tours: adults £25, concessions £20, children £10. Afternoon tea: £27.50 (in addition to the tour ticket). Concession rates apply to over 60s, students, and UK armed forces. Discounted group rates are available. Go to www.parliament.uk/visiting for more info.

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London

HATFIELD HOUSE

CAMELLIA’S TEA HOUSE

www.hatfield-house.co.uk HATFIELD, HERTFORDSHIRE, AL9 5NQ T: +44 (0) 1707 287010 E: visitors@hatfield-house.co.uk

www.camelliasteahouse.com 2.12 KINGLY COURT, CARNABY STREET, LONDON, W1B 5PW T: 020 7734 9939 E: info@camelliasteahouse.com

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atfield House is the home of the 7th Marquess and Marchioness of Salisbury and their family. The Estate has been in the Cecil family for over 400 years. In 1611, Robert Cecil, 1st Earl of Salisbury built his fine Jacobean House adjoining the site of the Old Palace of Hatfield. The house was splendidly decorated for entertaining the Royal Court, with state rooms rich in paintings, fine furniture and tapestries. OPEN: The house, park and gardens are open 5 April – 28 September. West Garden is open 10am to 5pm and Park is open 10am to 5.30pm Tue – Sun (and Bank Holiday Mondays). Hatfield House opens from 11am to 5pm (last admission at 4pm) Wed – Sun (and Bank Holiday Mondays). Closed Good Friday.

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amellia’s Tea House has been born out of a love and passion for tea. They design and hand-make most of their teas themselves, including novel herbal infusion blends. With an environment that is relaxing and enjoyable, Camellia’s Tea House is a place where people love the quirky ambience, the original tea varieties, and the wide selection of carefully chosen tea ware and gifts as well as the delicious cakes. Camellia was also voted in the top 10 places for afternoon tea in London by Homes and Gardens magazine. OPEN: Seven days a week from 12pm till 7pm.

PARK ONLY

18 STAFFORD TERRACE www.rbkc.gov.uk/museums 18 STAFFORD TERRACE, LONDON W8 7BH T: +44 (0) 20 7602 3316 E: museums@rbkc.gov.uk

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rom 1875, 18 Stafford Terrace was the home of Punch cartoonist Edward Linley Sambourne, his wife Marion, their two children and their live-in servants. The house gives an insight into the personal lives of the Sambourne family, and also provides a rare example of what was known as an ‘Aesthetic Interior’ or ‘House Beautiful’ style. The Aesthetic Movement of the late 19th century advocated the use of foreign or exotic influences in the decoration of the home. This can be seen by the various Japanese, Middle-Eastern and Chinese objects throughout the Sambournes’ home.

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After the deaths of Linley and Marion Sambourne, the house was preserved by their descendants. In 1980 it was opened to the public by the Victorian Society. This organisation had been inaugurated at 18 Stafford Terrace in 1958 by the Sambourne’s granddaughter, Anne, 6th Countess of Rosse.

OPEN: Open Mid-September to Mid-June. Visits are by guided tours and schools visits only. Public tours are Wednesdays (11.15am and 2.15pm), Saturdays and Sundays (11.15am, 1.00pm, 2.15pm and 3.30pm). The weekend afternoon tours are led by costumed actors and based on the diaries of Marion Sambourne. For private tours please contact the house for availability and prices or alternatively visit our website. ADMISSION: £8 Adults, £6 Concessions (over 60 and full-time students) and £3 Children (under 16). Free ticket for under 5s, friends of Leighton House and registered carers.

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Southeast England GO APE – LIVE LIFE ADVENTUROUSLY www.goape.co.uk 29 LOCATIONS UK WIDE T: +44 (0) 845 643 1732 E: questions@goape.co.uk

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ward-winning outdoor adventure activities for all the family await at the UK’s number one forest adventure, which has bases across the country. Set within beautiful forests, Go Ape allows families and friends of all ages to unleash their inner apes, be it on a Tree Top Adventure, where you can fly down a huge zip wire or leap off Tarzan Swings and enjoy high rope obstacles in some of Britain’s most breathtaking scenery, or a Tree Top Junior experience, suitable for the younger members of your family. Alternatively, you can explore the forest floor on an all-terrain Segway. All in all, it promises to be a day out like no other.

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We think everyone has the Go Ape spirit inside of them, all they need is the opportunity to channel it. There’s no greater rush than being at one with the great outdoors, so whether your tribe is a stag do, a birthday party, a corporate event or simply enjoying a day out with the kids, we aim to make our courses as fun and as accessible as possible. Our courses are for anyone who likes to live life adventurously – you don’t have to be a seasoned explorer to enjoy a Go Ape experience, just willing to give it a go.

OPEN/ADMISSIONS: Please check website for details on specific venues.

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THE ROALD DAHL MUSEUM & STORY CENTRE

SAFFRON WALDEN

www.roalddahl.com/museum 81-83 HIGH STREET, GREAT MISSENDEN, BUCKS HP16 0AL T: +44 (0) 1494 892192

www.visitsaffronwalden.gov.uk TOURIST INFORMATION CENTRE, 1 MARKET PLACE, SAFFRON WALDEN, ESSEX, CB10 1HR T: +44 (0) 1799 524002 E: tourism@saffronwalden.gov.uk

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his award-winning family-focussed museum is situated in Roald Dahl’s home village of Great Missenden. The Museum has three fun and fact-packed interactive galleries. Boy Gallery focuses on Roald Dahl’s school days; Solo Gallery features the author’s original Writing Hut and the Story Centre offers ‘fantabulous’ creative displays and activities. OPEN: Tuesday to Friday: 10am to 5pm. Saturday and Sunday: 11am to 5pm. Closed Mondays (except Bank Holidays and Buckinghamshire half-term holidays). ADMISSION: Adults: £6.60. Children 5 to 18: £4.40. Children under 5: free. Concessions: £4.40. Family: £21 (two adults and up to three children).

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affron Walden is a delightful medieval market town located in north-west Essex. It has a rich heritage of old buildings, including St Mary’s Church, the largest and one of the most beautiful parish churches in Essex, as well as a friendly, award-winning museum. A market has been held in Saffron Walden since 1141, and market days are now Tuesdays and Saturdays. In and around the market place, there are many independent shops and eating places to choose from. We look forward to welcoming you to our beautiful town.

BED & BREAKFAST NATIONWIDE

COPPED HALL

www.bedandbreakfastnationwide.com PO BOX 10894, FRINTON-ON-SEA, ESSEX, CO13 3AN T: +44 (0) 1255 672 377 E: office@bbnationwide.co.uk

www.coppedhalltrust.org.uk COPPED HALL, CROWN HILL, EPPING, ESSEX, CM16 5HS T: +44 (0) 20 7267 1679 E: coxalan1@aol.com

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xperience the British way of life in an authentic setting by staying in a B&B in a private home. Our free brochure and website include a selection of 600 B&Bs in England, Scotland, Wales and Ireland. All have been inspected by our experienced representatives and chosen for their warm welcome and quality of accommodation. Many welcome dogs and horses, and have facilities for the less mobile.

For a range of self catering cottages visit www.holidaycottagesnationwide.co.uk

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id 18th century Palladian mansion under restoration, situated on a ridge overlooking landscaped park. Auxiliary buildings, including stables and a racquets court, plus the former elaborate gardens are being rescued from abandonment. The large 18th century walled kitchen garden sits adjacent to site of 16th century mansion where A Midsummer Nights Dream was first performed. Ideal film location. OPEN: Please see website for details of open days. Events and private tours by advance booking only.

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Southeast England

Buckinghamshire/Essex


Southeast England

Essex/Hampshire

THE MUNNINGS COLLECTION AT CASTLE HOUSE www.siralfredmunnings.co.uk CASTLE HOUSE, DEDHAM, ESSEX, COLCHESTER, CO7 6AZ T: +44 (0) 1206 322127 E: enquiries@siralfredmunnings.co.uk

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astle House is the former home of artist Sir Alfred Munnings (1878-1959) and his wife Violet. The House, grounds, Studio and Garden Café are set in forty acres of beautiful countryside in the Dedham Vale on the borders of Essex and Suffolk. Described by Munnings as “the house of my dreams”, this elegant Tudor and Georgian building is now home to The Munnings Collection, the largest collection of works by the artist, who was President of the Royal Academy 1944-1949. For 2014, The Munnings Collection presents two new exhibitions: Sketches from France, 1918, which illustrates life with the Canadian

Cavalry during WWI when Munnings was a commissioned war artist, and Violet, the Artist’s Wife explores Lady Munnings’ role as model, wife and founder of the collection.

OPEN: Open 1 April – 31 October, 2pm to 5pm, Wednesdays – Sundays and Bank Holiday Mondays (1 August – 31 August, 11am to 5pm, Wednesdays – Sundays and Bank Holiday Monday). ADMISSION: Adults: £6.50. Concessions: £5. Children: £1.

MID HANTS RAILWAY ‘WATERCRESS LINE’

JANE AUSTEN’S HOUSE MUSEUM

www.watercressline.co.uk THE RAILWAY STATION, ALRESFORD, HAMPSHIRE SO24 9JG T: +44 (0)1962 733810 E: info@watercressline.co.uk

www.jane-austens-house-museum.org.uk CHAWTON, HAMPSHIRE, GU34 1SD T: +44 (0)1420 83262 E: enquiries@jahmusm.org.uk

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OPEN: Select days from 15 February to 2 November, 10am to 5pm. Adults: £16, children (age 2 to 16): £8

OPEN: Please see the website for opening times.

et off steam at this living history railway. Experience the nostalgic sights, sounds and smells of steam as you travel through 10 miles of beautiful Hampshire countryside. Fares give you great value all-day travel, so you can visit all four period stations and explore the historic towns of Alresford and Alton. Family events and dining trains throughout the year.

ane Austen’s House Museum was the home where Jane Austen lived for the last eight years of her life and where she did the majority of her mature writing. In this house Jane wrote, revised and sent out all of her novels for publication. Run today as a museum of Jane’s life and writing, the house retains the charm of a village home while telling the story of Jane and her family.

OPPOSITE

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OPPOSITE

GUIDE DOG ONLY

For a key to symbols please see page 135


DACORUM: LOOK NO FURTHER www.dacorumlooknofurther.co.uk DACORUM BOROUGH COUNCIL, CIVIC CENTRE, MARLOWES, HEMEL HEMPSTEAD, HERTS HP1 1HH T: +44 (0) 1442 228719 E: looknofurther@dacorum.co.uk

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rom world-class extreme sports facilities to areas of outstanding natural beauty; from musical and performing arts venues to cultural and heritage sites, Dacorum has everything for visitors to enjoy. Dacorum in West Hertfordshire, to the north of London, embraces the new town of Hemel Hempstead, which has excellent family recreation facilities to offer including; crazy golf, croquet, petanque, giant chess and draughts, playgrounds and bowling greens. The historic market towns of Berkhamsted and Tring are close by and visitors will love the picturesque villages and splendid rural locations in this area.

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With its mix of well-known attractions and hidden treasures, Dacorum is a great place to explore. Ashridge Estate is a rambler’s paradise with over 5,000 acres of countryside. Tring Reservoirs are among the best bird watching spots in Southern England while the historic remains of Berkhamsted Castle date from the 11th to 13th centuries. Visitors can also appreciate the tranquil surroundings of the rolling Chiltern Hills, an Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty. Whether you want to explore and escape or relax and unwind you will find all you need for a perfect stay in this astonishing region of natural beauty.

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Southeast England

Hertfordshire


Southeast England

Hampshire/ Hertfordshire/Isle of Wight/Kent DOCWRA’S MANOR GARDEN www.docwrasmanorgarden.co.uk SHEPRETH , ROYSTON, HERTS SG8 6PS T: +44 (0) 1763 260235

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ll year round these varied gardens within old farm walls and hedges provide real interest to visitors, with ideas for planting that you can take home and apply to your own garden. Do come. GUIDE DOG ONLY

EXBURY GARDENS & STEAM RAILWAY www.exbury.co.uk EXBURY, SOUTHAMPTON, HAMPSHIRE, SO45 1AZ T: +44 (0) 23 8089 1203 E: info@exbury.co.uk

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xbury’s 200-acre woodland garden showcases the Rothschild Collection of rhododendrons, azaleas and camellias in spring. Summer brings shady river walks and tranquil ponds, while exotic plants heat up the herbaceous borders. Rock, heather and bog gardens ensure year-round interest. Autumn boasts vibrant colours and displays of Nerine sarniensis in the Gallery. The steam railway is a family favourite. OPEN: 15 March to 2 Nov 10am to 5pm. ADMISSION: Adults £11, Children £2.75, Family £24.75 (including Gift Aid).

VISITING LONDON???

Comfortable and affordable self-catering holiday apartments in a unique location in St. Katharine’s Marina adjacent to Tower Bridge and the Tower of London Sleep up to 6. Weekly letting, linen, towels, washer/dryer, TV, telephone, broadband etc.

EARLY BOOKING RECOMMENDED!! For more information, contact: Tel: +44 (0) 1462 678037 Fax: +44 (0) 1462 679639 email: hamlet_uk@globalnet.co.uk

www.hamletuk.com

BRADING ROMAN VILLA

PENSHURST PLACE & GARDENS

www.bradingromanvilla.org.uk MORTON OLD ROAD, BRADING, ISLE OF WIGHT, PO36 0PH T: +44 (0) 1983 406223 E: info@bradingromanvilla.org.uk

www.penshurstplace.com PENSHURST, TONBRIDGE, KENT, TN11 8DG T: +44 (0) 1892 870307 E: contactus@penshurstplace.com

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ne of the finest Roman sites in the UK. The awardwinning museum offers a unique insight into Roman Britain from beautiful mosaic floors to an extensive collection of archaeology. The Villa offers something for everyone with a licensed café, shop and extensive grounds including a Roman garden. The new gallery space showcases a changing programme of exhibitions from national museums and galleries.

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OPEN: Open daily 10am to 5pm. Adults: £6.50. Children £3.75. Seniors/students £5.75. Family ticket (2 adults and up to 3 children): £20.

OPEN: See website for opening times and prices.

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stunning house and gardens have stood on the Penshurst estate since the 14th century. Property of Henry VIII, it was gifted to the Sidney family in 1552. With a unique medieval Baron’s Hall, staterooms, and Tudor walled gardens, it is a fascinating place to visit. Family fun can also be had, with an adventure playground and a toy museum; plus regular events, garden restaurant, porcupine pantry and gift shop.

For a key to symbols please see page 135


HEVER CASTLE & GARDENS www.hevercastle.co.uk HEVER, NR EDENBRIDGE, KENT TN8 7NG T: +44 (0) 1732 865224 E: mail@hevercastle.co.uk

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xperience 700 years of history at the romantic double-moated 13th century castle that was once the childhood home of Anne Boleyn. Splendid panelled rooms contain fine furniture, tapestries and an important collection of Tudor portraits. Discover the glorious award-winning gardens, with Rose, Italian and Tudor gardens as well as magnificent topiary, fountains, cascades and grottoes. Then relax by the breathtaking loggia overlooking the 38-acre lake before hiring a boat from the Edwardian Boathouse (weekends and school holidays, weather permitting). Children can let off steam in the adventure playground,

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while visitors of all ages enjoy the challenge of finding their way through the Water Maze and the 100-year-old Yew Maze. There’s a fascinating collection of miniature model houses, and a warm welcome awaits you in the restaurants, which serve delicious lunches and cream teas. OPEN: 15 Feb to 24 Dec, main season open daily 10.30am to 6pm. See website for all other opening times. ADMISSION: Castle and gardens: adults £15.50; children (5-15) £8.70; seniors £13.25. Gardens only: adults £13; children £8.20; seniors £11.25. Group and educational rates are also available.

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Southeast England

Kent


Southeast England

Kent/Oxfordshire

LEEDS CASTLE www.leeds-castle.com MAIDSTONE, KENT, ME17 1PL T: +44 (0)1622 765400 E: enquiries@leeds-castle.co.uk

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here is always something going on for the whole family to enjoy at Leeds Castle in Kent, and with the Annual Ticket, you can visit as many times as you like throughout 2014. Used by Henry VIII and his first wife, Catherine of Aragon, the castle has also been a Norman stronghold, home to six of England’s medieval queens, a Jacobean country house, and a Georgian mansion. New for this year, children up to the age of seven, will love the zip wires, swings, underground sandpit and dungeon in our exciting medieval playground.

Along with our falconry displays and daily swan feeds, you can explore the maze and grotto, over 500 acres of gardens and parkland, ride Elsie the Castle Land Train, go punting on the castle’s moat, and enjoy a fun-packed programme of events throughout the year. There are lots of brand new activities, tours and trails for your family to discover, many of which are included with the price of your entrance ticket. Leeds Castle is located near Maidstone in Kent just off Junction 8 of the M20 and is only one hour’s drive from London.

OPEN: Daily from 10am. Check website for seasonal opening and closing times. ADMISSION: Annual tickets - adults: £24, concessions: £21: children: £16. Day Ticket - adults: £19, concessions: £16, children: £11

OXFORD CASTLE UNLOCKED www.oxfordcastleunlocked.co.uk 44-46 OXFORD CASTLE, NEW ROAD, OXFORD, OX1 1AY T: +44 (0)1865 260 666 E: info@oxfordcastleunlocked.co.uk

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ringing Oxford’s hidden history to life, Oxford Castle Unlocked is a visitor attraction with a past stretching far beyond your imagination, documenting the fortress’s time as a religious site, a royal home, a centre of justice and the County Gaol. After almost 1000 years of episodes of violence, executions, great escapes, betrayal and even romance, only now can this ancient castle reveal its stories and secrets about the ordinary people who roamed the site and the extraordinary tales that connect them to it, unlocking the prison at the heart of the Norman castle.

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Led by one of our costumed character guides, the rich history of the castle will be revealed. Climb the Saxon St George’s Tower, descend deep underground into the Crypt, explore the Prison D-Wing and scale the Mound of the 11th century motte-and-bailey castle.

OPEN: All year round (except for three days at Christmas ), 10am to 5.30pm. ADMISSION: Adults: £9.95, children: £6.95, concessions: £8.45, Family: £29.95.

For a key to symbols please see page 135


THE ENGLISH BUS www.theenglishbus.com TOURS DEPART FROM CENTRAL LONDON T: +44 (0) 207 183 8427 E: mail@theenglishbus.com

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ward-winning small group guided tours from London to the best of Britain and beyond. Visit Stonehenge, Oxford, Bath, Stratford and more…

CHIDDINGSTONE CASTLE

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www.buscot-park.com NR. FARINGDON, OXFORDSHIRE, SN7 8BU T: +44 (0) 1367 240932 E: info@buscot-park.com

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he 18th century Buscot Park gardens were designed to complement the estate’s Palladian house and include stately water cascades by Harold Peto. LIMITED

iscover Chiddingstone Castle and you will find a unique and unspoiled historic house with some exquisite treasures from around the world, including a stunning Ancient Egyptian collection, Buddhist artefacts, magnificent Japanese armour and some beautiful Jacobean paintings. Walk round the collector’s own study and visit the authentic Victorian servants’ rooms. Set in 35 acres, the grounds have a lake, a rose garden, magnificent woodland and an award-winning orangery. The Tea Room offers delicious light lunches and cream teas.

BUSCOT PARK

ABINGDON COUNTY HALL MUSEUM www.abingdonmusuem.org.uk THE MARKET PLACE, ABINGDON, OXFORDSHIRE, OX14 3HG T: +44 (0)1235 523703 E: abingdon.museum@abingdon.gov.uk

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ne of Abingdon’s oldest and most beautiful buildings, the County Hall was built between 1678 and 1682 by Christopher Kempster, a protégé of Sir Christopher Wren. It was built to house the Berkshire Assize Courts, which for 200 years bore witness to some of the county’s most important criminal trials. The County Hall, now a Museum, houses three floors of exhibitions with a diverse collection of local social history and archaeology, ranging from evidence of pre-Roman settlement to

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BY APPOINTMENT

www.chiddingstonecastle.org.uk HILL HOATH ROAD, CHIDDINGSTONE, KENT, TN8 7AD T: +44 (0) 1892 870 347 E: events@chiddingstonecastle.org.uk

GUIDE DOG ONLY

an in-situ MGB Roadster, one of the last to be produced in the Abingdon factory. Visitors can enjoy breathtaking views of the historic town and the surrounding countryside from the rooftop of the Museum, while the cellar café provides delicious lunches, drinks and light refreshments. With changing topical exhibitions and special events all year round, the Museum is a must see for anyone visiting South Oxfordshire.

OPEN: Open all year round with a short closing period between 24 December – 2 January. Tuesday – Sunday 10:00 – 16:00. Bank Holiday Mondays 10:00 – 16:00. ADMISSION: Admission to the museum is free. Roof tickets cost £2 for adults and £1 for concessions, children and English Heritage members. LIMITED SUITABILITY

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Southeast England

Kent/Oxfordshire


Southeast England

Oxfordshire

ASHMOLEAN MUSEUM OF ART AND ARCHAEOLOGY www.ashmolean.org BEAUMONT STREET, OXFORD OX1 2PH T: +44 (0) 1865 278000 E: marketing@ashmus.ox.ac.uk

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ourney through time and across cultures, from East to West, in the world’s oldest museum. See the remarkable collections that tell the story of civilisation and human aspirations from Ancient Egypt to the modern day. Highlights include mummies from Ancient Egypt; classical sculptures from Greece and Rome; paintings by masters of European art such as Raphael, Rembrandt, Turner, and Van Gogh; and the greatest collection of Chinese art in the western world. The museum’s special exhibitions for 2014/15 include ‘Cézanne and the Modern’,

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‘Discovering Tutankhamun’, ‘English Embroideries from the Feller Collection’ and ‘William Blake: Apprentice and Master’. The Ashmolean offers a range of family friendly events and activities, talks and tours. For details of our rooftop restaurant, café and shop and more information about our events programme, visit our website.

OPEN: Tues to Sunday and Bank Holiday Monday, 10am to 5pm. The Museum is closed 24 to 26 December, 2014. ADMISSION: Free.

For a key to symbols please see page 135


DIDCOT RAILWAY CENTRE

ST MARY’S HOUSE & GARDENS

www.didcotrailwaycentre.org.uk DIDCOT, OXFORDSHIRE, OX11 7NJ T: +44 (0) 1235-817200 E: info@didcotrailwaycentre.org.uk

www.stmarysbramber.co.uk BRAMBER, WEST SUSSEX BN44 3WE T: +44 (0) 1903 816205 E: info@stmarysbramber.co.uk

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ecreating the golden age of the Great Western Railway (GWR), Didcot Railway Centre features 20 GWR steam locomotives, as well as many carriages, wagons and cranes. There is also a unique working replica broad gauge locomotive. Original buildings and structures include a 1932 four road engine shed, an 1857 transfer shed, a coaling stage, signal boxes, signalling, and a turntable. Steamdays, gala events, and the themed ‘Day Out With Thomas’ are popular with visitors. OPEN: Every weekend & most school holidays. Daily 24 May to 14 Sept, 25 Oct to 2 Nov. 10.30am to 4pm, although open til 5pm on steamdays and during summer.

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his enchanting medieval house in the heart of the South Downs National Park, winner of Hudsons Heritage ‘best restoration’ award, features in Simon Jenkins’ book England’s Thousand Best Houses. It has fine panelled interiors, including the unique Elizabethan ‘Painted Room’. Five acres of grounds, with amusing topiary, the Victorian ‘Secret’ Garden, Rural Museum, Jubilee Rose Garden, Terracotta Garden, woodland walk and unusual circular Poetry Garden. OPEN: May – Sept. Sundays, Thursdays, B.H. Mondays 2 pm– 6pm (last entry at 5pm) ADMISSION: House & Gardens: Adult £8, Senior £7.50, Child £4. Gardens only: Adult £5, Senior £4.50, Child £2. GROUPS: at other times by arrangement.

POLESDEN LACEY

NEWHAVEN FORT

www.nationaltrust.org.uk/polesdenlacey GREAT BOOKHAM, NR DORKING, SURREY RH5 6BD T: +44 (0) 1372 452048 E: polesdenlacey@nationaltrust.org.uk

www.newhavenfort.org.uk FORT ROAD, NEWHAVEN, EAST SUSSEX, BN9 9DS T: +44 (0) 1273 517 622 E: info@newhavenfort.org.uk

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urrounded by breathtaking views of the Surrey Hills and situated four miles from Dorking and Junction 9 of the M25, Polesden Lacey is the perfect space for relaxing. The house gives a fascinating insight into the Edwardian era with its rich collection of art and stories. A place of contrasts with both a touch of Edwardian elegance and muddy countryside walks, visitors can also enjoy the gardens, café and shop.

OPEN: From 10am every day.

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n award-winning attraction and a fine example of an English fortification, Newhaven Fort is the perfect place for a family day out. The massive ramparts, tunnels and gun emplacements all fire the imagination and the evocative exhibitions provide glimpses into Britain’s dramatic wartime past. There is also an on-site café, gift shop, outdoor adventure playground for under-12s and free parking. OPEN: 1 March to 30 Sept, 10.30am to 6pm (last admission 5pm), 1 Oct to 2 Nov, 10.30am to 5pm (last admission 4pm). Adults: £6; children: £4; seniors/students: £5; family (2 adults and up to 3 children): £18.70.

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Southeast England

Oxfordshire/Surrey/Sussex


Southeast England

Surrey

VISIT GUILDFORD www.visitguildford.com GUILDFORD TOURIST INFORMATION CENTRE, GUILDFORD HOUSE, 155 HIGH STREET, GUILDFORD, SURREY, GU1 3AJ T: +44 (0) 1483 444333 E: tic@guildford.gov.uk

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uildford is a vibrant market town just 40 minutes by train from London and within easy reach of the south coast of England, both Heathrow and Gatwick airports, and Windsor, making it the perfect gateway to the whole of the South East. Its history is evident, from the castle, thought to have been built shortly after William the Conqueror invaded England in 1066, to the Guildhall clock gifted to the town in 1683. The town is also an artistic and cultural hub with lush gardens and sparkling waterways. Visit the National Trust properties of Clandon

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Park and Hatchlands Park, Loseley House and Polesden Lacey for country walks or afternoon tea by the river, or stroll around the cobbled town with its independent shops and cafés, and learn about its history via the knowledgeable town guides. Maps and attractions and event listings can be picked up at the Guildford Tourist Information Centre.

OPEN: Monday to Saturday from 9.30am to 5pm and Sundays (May to September) from 11am to 4pm. ADMISSION: Many of Guildford’s attractions are free of charge.

For a key to symbols please see page 135


Photo: Marianne Majerus

SUSSEX PRAIRIE GARDEN

BORDE HILL GARDEN

www.sussexprairies.co.uk MORLANDS FARM, WHEATSHEAF RD , NR HENFIELD , WEST SUSSEX, BN5 9AT T: +44 (0) 1273 495902 E: morlandsfarm@btinternet.com

www.bordehill.co.uk BORDE HILL GARDEN, HAYWARDS HEATH, WEST SUSSEX RH16 1XP T: +44 (0) 1444 450326

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xciting eight-acre prairie garden planted in the naturalistic style using 30,000 plants and over 800 varieties. Expect layers of colour, texture and architectural splendour. Visitors are encouraged to roam among the many varieties of plants with their soft and muted colours which complement the beauty of the natural landscape.

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xplore this enchanting 20th century garden and admire the Elizabethan House nestled amongst its unique outdoor rooms. Continue your journey through magical woodlands and tranquil parklands and immerse yourself in the living history of this fascinating garden. Events take place throughout the season, fees apply. There is a café, an award-winning restaurant and an art gallery.

OPEN: 31 May to 12 October 2014, 1pm to 5pm. Closed Tuesdays. See website for special events and workshops. Unusual Plant and Art Fair 31 August 2014.

‘One of the country’s truly great gardens’ – Country Life OPEN: 22 March to 2 Nov (except 26 July) 2014, 10am to 6pm (or dusk if earlier)

PARHAM HOUSE AND GARDENS www.parhaminsussex.co.uk PARHAM PARK, PULBOROUGH, WEST SUSSEX, RH20 4HS T: +44 (0) 1903 742021 E: enquiries@parhaminsussex.co.uk dyllically set in the heart of a 17th century deer park beneath an unspoiled stretch of the South Downs, Parham is one of England’s finest Elizabethan examples. The house contains an important collection of furniture, Stuart paintings and needlework, and the spectacular Long Gallery is the third longest in England. The award-winning gardens include a four-acre walled garden, herbaceous borders and magical stone Wendy House. The vibrant gardens are run on organic principles and offer interest throughout a long season. With its herbs, vegetables, lavender, roses and fruit trees, the garden is a series of interlocking

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pictures, woven with tapestry like effect in the English Romantic tradition. Parham has always been a much-loved family home. Now a charitable trust, the house is lived in by Lady Emma Barnard, her husband James and their family. OPEN: Wednesday, Thursday, Friday & Sunday from May to September. Only open Sundays and bank holidays in April and October. The gardens and restaurant are open from 12pm to 5pm, the house is open 2pm to 5pm. Last admission 4.30pm. ADMISSION: See website for admission prices. Some Acces

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Southeast England

Sussex


South East England

Sussex

THE COMPLEAT FOOD & DRINK CO

ARUNDEL CASTLE

www.royaloakeastlavant.co.uk THE ROYAL OAK INN, POOK LANE, EAST LAVANT, CHICHESTER, WEST SUSSEX, PO18 0AX T: +44 (0) 1243 527434 E: info@royaloakeastlavant.co.uk

www.arundelcastle.org ARUNDEL, WEST SUSSEX, BN18 9AB T: +44 (0) 1903 882 173 E: visits@arundelcastle.org

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eorgian Inn offering superb food exceeding 2 AA Rosettes plus outstanding 5 Star Boutique hotel accommodation in the South Downs National Park close to Goodwood, West Dean, Chichester and the beaches at The Witterings. Cottages are also available for longer lets. Menu available online.

OPEN: Serving lunch all year from 12.30 – 2.30pm and dinner from 6 – 9.30pm.

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thousand years of history await visitors to the picturesque Arundel Castle in West Sussex. Enjoy the 11th century Keep, or marvel at the paintings and furniture, tapestries and stained glass, china and clocks, sculpture and carving, and armour in stunning room settings. Alternatively, step outside to enjoy the kitchen gardens and award-winning Collector Earl’s Garden. Events held throughout the season include medieval days, archery and re-enactments. Lunch and shop on site. OPEN: Until 2 Nov, 10am to 5pm. Adults: from £9, children and seniors: £9 (excluding Joust Week 22 – 27 July). LIMITED ACCESS

THE WEST DEAN EXPERIENCE www.westdean.org.uk WEST DEAN – COLLEGE AND GARDENS , WEST DEAN NR CHICHESTER, WEST SUSSEX, PO18 0QZ T: +44 (0) 1243 811 301 E: reception@`westdean.org.uk

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ample the Downton Abbey experience with a stay in stately splendour at West Dean, a beautiful Edwardian country mansion and a favourite of King Edward VII, who was a regular visitor. Set in the heart of the English countryside, West Dean is surrounded by award-winning gardens and is home to the world-renowned West Dean College, which offers short courses and summer schools in art and craft. Why not visit us this year, come on one of our weekend or summer school courses or take advantage of late availability Bed and Breakfast accommodation while you explore the area.

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Located within the stunning Sussex countryside in the South East of England, West Dean is close to the south coast and beaches, and the historic city of Chichester, and is just 65 miles away from London.

OPEN: Gardens open: 1 March to 31 Oct: Open daily 10.30am to 5pm (last entry 4.30pm). 1 Nov to 21 Dec (closed 22 Dec to 31 Jan inclusive): Open daily 10.30am to 4pm (last entry 3.30pm). 1 Feb to 28 Feb: Open daily 10.30am to 4pm (last entry at 3.30pm).

For a key to symbols please see page 135


BRITSPEC

THE MANOR OF GREEN KNOWE

www.greenknowe.co.uk OFF NORMAN COURT, HEMINGFORD GREY, CAMBRIDGESHIRE, PE28 9BN T: +44 (0) 1480 463134 E: diana_boston@hotmail.com

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his charming manor is famous as Green Knowe in the children’s books by Lucy Boston. Her patchwork collection is displayed, along with topiary and rose gardens. DISABLED ONLY

HOLIDAY

COTTAGES

COLMAN’S MUSTARD SHOP & MUSEUM

www.mustardshopnorwich.co.uk 15 ROYAL ARCADE, NORWICH, NR2 1NQ T: +44 (0) 1603 627889 E: sales@mustardshopnorwich.co.uk

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isit a replica Victorian shop celebrating 200 years of mustard making in Norfolk, with exclusive Colman’s Mustard products and historical displays.

Book your accommodation with Stately Holiday Cottages and explore the very best that the British Isles has to offer. Treat yourself to an early spring break in a cottage, lodge, farm house, medieval castle or a gatehouse. What are you waiting for? Visit our website at...

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OXBURGH HALL

DAVENPORT’S MAGIC KINGDOM

www.nationaltrust.org.uk/oxburghhall OXBOROUGH, KING’S LYNN, NORFOLK, PE33 9PS T: +44 (0) 1366 328258 E: oxburghhall@nationaltrust.org.uk

davenportsmagickingdom.co.uk CROMER ROAD, NORTH WALSHAM, NORFOLK, NR28 0NB T: +44 (0) 1692 405 254 E: info@davenportsmagickingdom.co.uk

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o-one forgets their first sight of Oxburgh. Built in 1482 by the Bedingfelds, it is the enduring legacy of their survival through turbulent times. Explore 500 years of history, see the secret Priest Hole and needlework by Mary, Queen of Scots. Enjoy stunning views across the surrounding landscape.

OPEN: House, Garden, Shop & Tea-room: 1 Mar-1 Oct Sat-Weds 11am-5pm (7 days Easter & August), 4 Oct-2 Nov open Sat-Weds 11am-4pm (last entry 3.30pm). Garden, Shop & Tea-room Weekends only: 4 Jan-16 Feb & 3 Nov-21 Dec 11am-4pm. *Check website for detailed opening times and admissions.

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he Witches to Wonder exhibition offers a fascinating time-travel tour through the history of magic. Magical demonstrations, a 30-minute live magic show, costumed guides, children’s activities and photo opportunities are all included with admission, making this a truly interactive experience. New attractions for 2014 include a gallery of optical illusions and the fairground sideshow, ‘The Living Half-Lady’. OPEN: 3 April to 31 Dec, 10am to 5pm on most days. Please see website or telephone for daily opening times. Adults: £10, children: £7, seniors: £9.

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Eastern England

Cambridge/Norfolk/Norwich


Eastern England

Norfolk/Suffolk/Peterborough

SANDRINGHAM www.sandringhamestate.co.uk SANDRINGHAM, NORFOLK T: +44 (0) 1485 545408 E: visits@sandringhamestate.co.uk

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andringham House, the Norfolk country retreat of Her Majesty The Queen, is set in 60 acres of beautiful gardens, regarded as the finest of the Royal gardens, and is open daily until 2 November this year. All the main ground floor rooms used by the Royal Family, which are filled with their treasured ornaments, portraits and furniture, and still maintained in the style of King Edward VII and Queen Alexandra, are open to the public. Don’t miss the fascinating museum and the charming parish church, plus 600 acres of the country park, and shops and restaurants at the visitor centre.

OPEN: Daily 19 April to 25 July and 2 Aug to 2 Nov, 11am to 5pm. ADMISSION: Adults: £13, children: £6.50, seniors: £11.

GAINSBOROUGH’S HOUSE

CITY OF PETERBOROUGH

www.gainsborough.org 46 GAINSBOROUGH STREET, SUDBURY, SUFFOLK, CO10 2EU T: +44 (0) 1787 372958 E: mail@gainsborough.org

www.visitpeterborough.com VISIT PETERBOROUGH, VISITOR INFORMATION CENTRE, 9 BRIDGE STREET, PETERBOROUGH PE1 1HJ T: +44 (0) 1733 452336 E: vic@peterborough.gov.uk Twitter: @morePeterboro

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ainsborough’s House and garden is the birthplace of one of Britain’s greatest artists, Thomas Gainsborough R.A. (1727-88). The elegant Georgian fronted townhouse and exhibition gallery shows an outstanding collection of his paintings and drawings and presents a changing programme of displays and temporary exhibitions throughout the year.

OPEN: Monday – Saturday 10am – 5pm. Open Sundays from 6 April. Closed: Good Friday and between Christmas and the New Year.

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eterborough is the city at the heart of rural East England, bridging the Cambridgeshire, Rutland, Lincolnshire and Northamptonshire borders. The city and its region have an important place in the history of Britain. Visit Peterborough, you will find a heritage city, an environment city and a modern, exciting cosmopolitan place.

OPEN: Many attractions, events and tours all year. See website for more details.

EXCEPT GUIDE DOGS

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For a key to symbols please see page 135


NORWICH CATHEDRAL www.cathedral.org.uk THE CLOSE, NORWICH, NR1 4DH T: +44 (0) 1603 218300 E: reception@cathedral.org.uk

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he most complete Norman cathedral in England and one of the finest examples of Romanesque architecture in Europe, Norwich Cathedral is one of England’s greatest cathedrals, but this beautiful building is much more than a place of worship. After you have unearthed over 900 years of history and explored the awe-inspiring cathedral in all its glory, you can discover the largest cathedral close, encompassing 44 acres, and monastic cloister in England. After this you can view a fascinating exhibition, enjoy a light lunch in the Refectory, or relax in the tranquillity of the Herb and Japanese Gardens.

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Containing a wealth of Romanesque features, with later Gothic additions, Norwich Cathedral is one of the most atmospheric and sacred spaces in Europe and is home to numerous treasures, including a collection of 1,000 medieval roof carvings, original Norman wall paintings and the famed Despenser Retable.

OPEN: All year round, 7am to 6pm. Opening times for facilities vary; visit the cathedral’s website for details and seasonal opening hours. ADMISSION: No admission charge, donations welcomed.

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Norwich


THE JANE AUSTEN CENTRE

THE AMERICAN MUSEUM IN BRITAIN

www.janeausten.co.uk 40 GAY STREET, BATH, BA1 2NT T: +44 (0) 1225 443000 E: contactus@janeausten.co.uk

www.americanmuseum.org CLAVERTON MANOR, BATH, BA2 7BD T: +44 (0) 1225 460503 E: info@americanmuseum.org

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elebrating Bath’s most famous resident, the Jane Austen Centre offers you a snapshot of life during Regency times and explores how living in this magnificent city affected the author and her writing. ‘Live’ guides, costume, film, a superb giftshop, tea room and an authentic period atmosphere await you at this premier attraction. With the International Jane Austen Festival every September, the Jane Austen Centre is a treat for all her fans. ADMISSION: Open every day. Adults: £8, children: £3.50, seniors: £7.

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he American Museum is home to the finest collection of Americana outside the United States; it features period rooms dating from colonial times right up until the Civil War, an outstanding quilt collection, inspiring folk art gallery, and Native American craft. A special annual exhibition runs from March to November, followed by a Christmas season. Events throughout the year include music series, re-enactments and workshops.

OPEN: 22 March to 2 Nov, and 22 Nov to 14 December 2014. Tues to Sunday from 12pm to 5pm. Closed Mondays except during August and on bank holidays.

MUSEUM OF EAST ASIAN ART www.meaa.org.uk 12 BENNETT STREET, BATH, BA1 2QJ T: +44 (0) 1225 464640 E: info@meaa.org.uk ust a few metres off The Circus in central Bath, is one of the most unique art collections in England. The Museum of East Asian Art houses a fine collection of ceramics, jades, bronzes and much more from China, Japan, Korea and Southeast Asia. This is the only museum in the UK dedicated solely to the arts and cultures of East and Southeast Asia. With a collection of almost 2,000 objects, ranging in date from c.5000 BC to the present day, the museum offers its visitors wonderful insight into the art and cultures of China, Japan, Korea and Southeast Asia. With one of the most comprehensive jade collections in the UK and some of the

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finest bamboo carvings in Europe, the collection uncovers the finest achievements in East Asian craftsmanship. The museum also offers a range of educational activities and workshops for all ages.

OPEN: All year around, except Christmas and New Year holidays. Tuesday to Saturday 10am to 5pm, Sunday and Bank holidays 12am to 5pm, last admission at 4:30pm. ADMISSION: Adults: £3.00, Seniors: £2.00, Children and Students(with ID): Free BOOKING REQUIRED

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Southwest England

Bath

For a key to symbols please see page 135


Photo: John Millar

LIZARD POINT AND KYNANCE COVE www.nationaltrust.org.uk/lizard THE LIZARD, CORNWALL, TR12 7NT T: +44 (0) 1326 561407 E: lizardandpenrose@nationaltrust.org.uk

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white sand and some of the cleanest bathing water in Britain. A favourite beach for locals and holidaymakers all year round with sheltered bays, islands and caves to explore. The walk between Lizard Point and Kynance is a must in the warmer months, along the 2.5 mile route you may see basking sharks, seals and the legendary Chough. Please note: dogs are banned on the beach at Kynance between Easter Sunday and the end of October between 7am and 7pm. OPEN: Open all year. National Trust car parks charge for non-members Easter to end of October half term (9am to 5pm). Rates vary between £3.50 and £4.50. National Trust members park for free. SOME AREAS

Photo: Olivia Dale

izard Point is mainland Britain’s most southerly point and as such has its own microclimate which means it is an ideal habitat for wildlife and plants. Come in the spring time to make the most of the wild flowers or in the winter to see the wild Atlantic storms batter the coast from the comfort of a nearby café. The Lizard peninsula is the birthplace of modern communication. Learn about Marconi’s pioneering radio experiments at the Lizard Wireless Station and the Marconi Centre, Poldhu. Kynance Cove is often voted as one of the best beaches in the world – the walk down to the shore is worth the effort as you’re greeted by turquoise sea,

Photo: Ross hoddinott

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SEASONAL DOG BAN

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Southwest England

Bath

THERMAE BATH SPA www.thermaebathspa.com HOT BATH STREET, BATH, BA1 1SJ T: +44 (0) 844 888 0844/ +44 (0)1225 33 1234 E: info@thermaebathspa.com

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n the heart of the World Heritage Site of Bath, Thermae Bath Spa is Britain’s only natural thermal day spa. Here you can bathe in the naturally warm, mineral-rich waters just as the Celts and Romans did nearly 2,000 years ago. By day and by night, enjoy the views of the city and surrounding hills while you relax in the open-air rooftop pool. Soothe your body and mind in the aroma steam rooms and immerse yourself in the thermal waters of the indoor Minerva Bath. Thermae offers a wide range of treatments and spa packages, including our signature Watsu treatment – a shiatsu massage in the natural thermal water,

performed in the 18th century Hot Bath. The Springs Café Restaurant offers a delicious seasonal menu with a choice of hot and cold dishes, salads, cakes and pastries using fresh, locally sourced produce.

OPEN: All year (excluding Christmas Day, Boxing Day and New Year‘s Day), 9am to 9.30pm (pools and steam rooms close at 9pm). Spa sessions from £27.00. Children under 16 not admitted in main spa. OVER 16’S ONLY

THE HOLBURNE MUSEUM www.holburne.org GREAT PULTENEY STREET, BATH, BA2 4DB T: +44 (0) 1225 388569 E: enquiries@holburne.org

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ath’s Holburne Museum is open daily and admission to the permanent collection is free. You will find a beautiful and fascinating art collection in one of Bath’s great buildings. The stunning modern extension has galleries to explore and a garden café that opens onto the park behind, serving fresh seasonal lunches and delicious cakes. An eclectic art collection includes everything from Renaissance treasures to masterpieces by Gainsborough, Zoffany and Brueghel, and from fine embroideries to exquisite silver and porcelain; there is lots to enjoy and take pleasure in.

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There is a changing temporary exhibition programme and calendar of events full of creative art activities and music, including lunchtime and evening recitals.

OPEN: Daily 10am to 5pm, except Sundays and Bank Holidays (open 11am to 5pm). Closed 24, 25, 26 Dec and 1 Jan. ADMISSION: Free entry for permanent exhibits but charges apply for temporary exhibits. Check the website for details.

For a key to symbols please see page 135


PRIOR PARK LANDSCAPE GARDEN

ROMAN BATHS

www.nationaltrust.org.uk/prior-park RALPH ALLEN DRIVE, BATH, SOMERSET T: +44 (0) 1225 833422 E: priorpark@nationaltrust.org.uk

www.romanbaths.co.uk ABBEY CHURCH YARD, BATH, BA1 1LZ T: +44 (0) 1225 477 785 E: romanbaths_bookings@bathnes.gov.uk

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rior Park Landscape Garden is set in the sweeping valleys of Bath and provides spectacular views over the city. Explore this beautiful and intimate Georgian garden and walk across the famous Palladian Bridge, explore the winding woodland paths or have a picnic and take in the views. OPEN: Garden: 1 Feb to 2 Nov, 10am to 5:30pm. 8 Nov to 28 Dec, 10am to 5pm, Sat and Sun only. Last admission one hour before closing. Closed 25 Dec. Tea Shed: 1 Feb to 16 Mar, 11am to 5pm, Sat and Sun only. 22 Mar to 2 Nov, 11am to 5pm. 8 Nov to 28 Dec, 11am to 5pm, Sat and Sun only. ADMISSIONS: Adults: £6.60, kids: £3.70, family: £16.80 (All Gift Aid).

t the heart of Bath stand the remains of one of the finest spas of the ancient world: the ruins of the temple of Minerva. Visit the bath-house where people bathed nearly 2,000 years ago and see Roman costumed characters and hear their stories. Audio-guides in eight languages included in entry fee.

OPEN: Daily: 9.30am to 5.30pm Jan and Feb; 9am to 6pm March to June; 9am to 10pm July and Aug; 9am to 6pm Sept and Oct, and 9.30am to 5pm Nov and Dec (closed 25/26 Dec). Adults: £13.50, children: £8.80, seniors: £11.75, family £38.

ON LEADS

BATH ABBEY

NO. 1 ROYAL CRESCENT

www.bathabbey.org ABBEY CHURCHYARD, BATH BA1 1LY T: +44 (0) 1225 422462 E: office@bathabbey.org

www.no1royalcrescent.org.uk 1 ROYAL CRESCENT, BATH, BA1 2LR T: +44 (0) 1225 428126 E: no1royalcrescent@bptrust.org.uk

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ath Abbey is a living church, where people have prayed for centuries and continue to worship today. Magnificent stained-glass windows, honey-gold stonework and a beautiful fan-vaulted ceiling combine to create an experience of light and space. Tower Tours are a great way to explore behind-thescenes, visit the bells, ringing chamber and clock while enjoying stunning views of the city. OPEN: Open all year. Monday 9.30am to 6pm. Tuesday to Saturday 9am to 6pm. Sunday 1pm to 2.30pm and 4.30pm to 5.30pm. Abbey only: £2.50 suggested donation. Tower Tours: Adult £6. Child £3.

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tep back in time at one of England’s finest Georgian houses, which reveals how our Georgian ancestors lived, worked and socialised. Hands-on items and knowledgeable guides help bring the period to life and you’ll discover some intriguing secrets of the times – both upstairs and downstairs. Shop, rolling exhibitions, kids’ explorer packs, and family discounts. OPEN: 14 Feb to 14 Dec, 10.30am to 5.30pm, except Mondays (12pm to 5.30pm). Last admission 4.30pm. ADMISSION: Adults: £8.50, children: £3.50, seniors: £6.50.

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Southwest England

Cornwall THE LOST GARDENS OF HELIGAN www.heligan.com PENTEWAN, ST AUSTELL, CORNWALL PL26 6EN T: +44 (0) 1726 845100 E: info@heligan.com

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ose yourself in an ever evolving lost world where the clock stops and the seasons dictate the changes.

HIDDEN VALLEY DISCOVERY PARK www.hiddenvalleydiscoverypark.co.uk TREDIDON, EGLOSKERRY, LAUNCESTON, CORNWALL, PL15 8SJ T: +44 (0) 1566 86463 E: hiddenvalley@btconnect.com

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xtraordinary family country park based around interactive discovery trails. Follow clues around the park and win real treasure coins. It’s an amazing mystery mansion with upside down rooms and secret passageways – you can even crawl through a fireplace. Enter the Vault for a timed challenge, get lost in a beech hedge maze, ride on a miniature railway, enter the Hobbit’s House, or visit the restaurant and shop. OPEN: 5 April to 30 September, 10am to 5pm. Last entry 3pm. ADMISSIONS: Adults: £9.50, children: £8.50, seniors: £7.50, family: £32.00.

TRURO CATHEDRAL www.trurocathedral.org.uk 14 ST MARY’S STREET, TRURO, CORNWALL, TR1 2AF T: +44 (0) 1872 276782 E: info@trurocathedral.org.uk

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his stunning Gothic Revival cathedral in the heart of Cornwall offers free entry all year round. As well as the chance to visit the shop and restaurant, Friday lunchtime organ recitals can be enjoyed at 1.10pm between March and October. GUIDE DOGS ONLY

BODMIN & WENFORD RAILWAY PLC

www.bodminrailway.co.uk BODMIN GENERAL STATION, BODMIN GENERAL, BODMIN, CORNWALL, PL31 1AQ T: +44 (0) 1208 73555 E: enquiries@bodminrailway.co.uk

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iscover the excitement of steam travel with a journey back in time on the Bodmin & Wenford Railway: Cornwall’s only full-size railway still operated by steam locomotives.

Davidstow CORNWALL AT WAR MUSEUMServices Three www.cornwallatwarmuseum.co.uk Creamery LLAMA LLAND LLITTLE LLAMAS

www.LlamaLland.com PENARE FARM, SHORTLANESEND, TRURO, CORNWALL, TR4 9DG T: +44 (0)1872 540465 / 07999 542463 E: info@LlamaLland.com

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lama Lland is selling Europe’s first and only miniature llamas. Book to come and meet the llamas and take them on a Cornish Country Llama Walk.

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Museum on WWII airfield

DAVIDSTOW VISITOR CENTRE, DAVIDSTOW, PL32 9YF VisitorCREAMERY Centre T: +44 (0) 7799 194 918 E: hq@cornwallatwarmuseum.co.uk

PL32 9YFis he Davidstow Airfield Davidstow, & Cornwall at War Museum situated on Second World War RAF Davidstow next Mobile: 07799 194Moor 918 to the cheese factory. Dedicated to all three armed services in www.cornwallatwarmuseum.co.uk Cornwall, from the First World War till today. Also learn about Adult £4. Concession £3. the women and the home front in the World Family £10Second (2 adults and 3War. children) Original buildings,AND exhibitions, dioramas, weapons, uniforms Open: 10am-5pm / last admission 4pm and equipment. Privately funded and run by unpaid volunteers, Easter till November the museum is a labour of love. Closed Sunday, Monday & Tuesday OPEN: 10am to 5pm. Last admission 4pm, Easter Closed Sun, Open every daytillinNovember. July, August, September school and Bank Holidays Mon and Tues. Open every day in plus July, Aug, Sept plus school and Bank Holidays. Adult £4. Concession £3. Family £10 (two adults three children). Airfield toursand available - see article

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DAVIDSTOW AIRFIELD CORNWALL

AT WAR MUSEUM

For a key to symbols please see page 135


THE WAYFARERS WALKING VACATIONS SINCE 1984

WHEAL MARTYN MUSEUM & COUNTRY PARK

www.thewayfarers.com 174 BELLEVUE AVENUE, NEWPORT RI 02840 US T: (+1) 800 249 4620 E: walk-info@thewayfarers.com

www.wheal-martyn.com CARTHEW, ST AUSTELL, CORNWALL, PL26 8XG T: +44 (0) 1726 850362 E: info@wheal-martyn.com

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xperience the beauty of Britain on foot with The Wayfarers. Two full-time UK guides will provide visitors with authentic experiences and unique insights about their native country. Week-long walking vacations are fully inclusive from arrival, allowing guests to unwind and enjoy the trip. Further transfers, accommodation, entrance fees, snacks, meals with wine and tips, maps and souvenirs are included in the price.

All-inclusive week-long vacations in England, Scotland, Northern Ireland and Wales. Departures from May to Oct. Double occupancy from $3795 per person.

BODMIN JAIL www.bodminjail.org BERRYCOOMBE ROAD, BODMIN, CORNWALL, PL31 2NR T: +44 (0) 1208 76292 E: info@bodminjail.org

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his fascinating building, steeped in both social and architectural history, offers our guests amazing insight into Cornish penal life over the centuries. You will leave us having experienced and learnt about a hard life behind bars, and what it may have been like to have spent time in the condemned cell. OPEN: Attraction open 09:30 to 5pm; restaurant open until 10pm, 364 days a year. ADMISSION: Entry to grounds, bar and restaurant, free. Jail visits: adults £7.50; Children (5 to 15 years) £5.50; under 5s free. Concessions (65 and over) £6.50; family ticket (2 adults and up to 3 children) £30.

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et within 26 acres of country park, Wheal Martyn offers a great day out. This picturesque site includes nature trails, woodland walks and is home to the UK’s only China Clay Heritage Centre. View a modern working clay pit and see Cornwall’s largest working waterwheel, ancient buildings, vintage vehicles and an interactive visitor centre. There is also a café, gift shop and children’s play area. ADMISSION: Children (5 and under), and wheelchair users: free. Child (6-16 years): £5; adult: £9; concessions (60+, students with valid NUS card): £7. Family Saver (2 adults and 2 children): £24 or (2 adults and up to 4 children): £29. OPEN: Varies throughout the year. See website for details.

MARWOOD HILL GARDENS www.marwoodhillgarden.co.uk MARWOOD, BARNSTAPLE. NORTH DEVON, EX31 4EB T: +44 (0) 1271 342528 E: info@marwoodhillgarden.co.uk

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his magical and special 20-acre private garden with three lakes is set in a valley tucked away in north Devon only four miles from Barnstaple. Created by Dr Jimmy Smart VMH in the late 1950s the gardens are a wonderful haven in which to relax and enjoy the impressive collections of plants, shrubs and trees and experience the views and peaceful atmosphere. The garden is enjoyed by visitors of all ages looking for inspiration, relaxation or just a great family day out. The view from the Garden Tea Room is spectacular, the food served is delicious, and the plant sales area is sure to tempt you.

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Cornwall/Devon


Southwest England

Channel Islands

PRIAULX LIBRARY www.priaulxlibrary.co.uk CANDIE ROAD, ST. PETER PORT, GUERNSEY, GY1 1UG T: +44 (0) 1481 721998 E: info@priaulxlibrary.co.uk

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he Priaulx Library is Guernsey’s National Library and has been serving the island since 1889. Retaining all the charm of its Victorian origins, from leather armchairs to Royal Doulton fireplaces, the library is a delight for the visitor and researcher alike. Books, maps, newspapers, photographs, prints and manuscripts detailing Channel Island history are available, as well as general collections of military history, rare books, and frequent exhibitions which take place throughout the year. Specializing in local history, the collections are to be found in Candie House, a large Georgian town house, built by one of the

ARTPARK & SUBTROPICAL GARDENS www.sausmarezmanor.co.uk and www.artparks.co.uk SAUSMAREZ MANOR, ST MARTIN, GUERNSEY, CI, GY4 6SG T: +44 (0)1481 235571 E: peter@artparks.co.uk

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rt and exotic jungle plantings seem to go well together and at Sausmarez Manor – with over 300 camellias, giant ferns, drifts of around 40 different bamboos, sub tropical lilies, palms, and banana trees all densely packed around twisting paths – this is no exception. Add around 100 carefully selected sculptures from around the world in amongst the lush foliage and you have a unique experience. Whether you are a garden or art lover, you will find something to interest you. There is also a Short Golf Course and a fascinating guided tour of the Historic Manor, which has been and still is

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island’s foremost merchants in the 1780s. Both the building and the collections were the gift of the last owner, Osmond de Beauvoir Priaulx, who wanted to establish a free library for the people of Guernsey on the island. The library has a worldwide client list and will undertake research on any aspect of local history, particularly genealogy.

OPEN: Monday to Saturday, 9.30am to 5pm, except Bank Holiday. Free Admission.

actually lived in by the Seigneurs since Circa 1204. Part of the manor was built at the bequest of the 1st Governor of New York. Other pleasures are a ride on train, the craft gift shop, a coppersmith and weekly Saturday morning Farmers’ Market. There’s even a spooky Ghost Tour conducted by the Seigneur himself with no less than ten personal experiences, a free glass of wine, and a chance to recount your own encounters – there is plenty to do and see.

OPEN: The sculpture park and subtropical gardens are open all year from 10.00-5.00 (the rest of the attraction only during the season). GARDEN ADMISSION: £6.00, Concessions £5.00, Babies and disabled are free. (Other areas of interest have their own individual rates.)

For a key to symbols please see page 135


SHERBORNE CASTLE & GARDENS www.sherbornecastle.com NEW ROAD, SHERBORNE, DORSET DT9 5NR T: +44 (0) 1935 812072 Ext 2 E: enquiries@sherbornecastle.com

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uilt by Sir Walter Raleigh in 1594 and home to the Digby family since 1617, Sherborne Castle’s staterooms display glorious art, furniture and porcelain collections from the great periods of English history. In the castle’s cellars you can see Raleigh’s kitchen and a museum displaying fascinating documents from the archive, a superb collection of fossils and relics from the Civil War. Explore the Capability Brown gardens with magnificent specimen trees, floral borders and sweeping lawns forming one of the famous landscape architect’s finest lake gardens. Delightful

walks lead you round the 50-acre lake to glorious features such as Raleigh’s Seat, the Cascade and the Folly. This natural and tranquil location is fabulous for watching a host of wildlife on the lake and in the surrounding grounds. It’s a perfect setting to relax, and for a picnic too. The castle also hosts wedding ceremonies and receptions, a country fair, classic car rallies, film crews and sporting events.

OPEN: 1st April to 30th October 2014. The castle, gardens, gift shop and tea room are open daily, except Mondays and Fridays (although they are open on Bank Holiday Mondays), from 11am, with last admission at 4.30pm (on Saturdays, the castle interior opens at 2pm, with last admission at 4.30pm). ADMISSION: Gardens: Adult /Senior £6. Children (0-15) free. Castle and Gardens: Adult £11, Senior £10, Children (0-15) free.

GREAT FULFORD

WOODCHESTER MANSION

www.greatfulford.co.uk DUNSFORD, EXETER, EX6 7AJ T: +44 (0) 164724 205 E: greatfulford@gmail.com

www.woodchestermansion.org.uk WOODCHESTER PARK, NYMPSFIELD, GLOUCESTERSHIRE GL10 3TS T: +44 (0) 1453 861541 E: lisa.jamieson@woodchestermansion.org.uk

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he ancient home of the Fulford family since circa 1190, Great Fulford is built around a courtyard and is mainly early Tudor with a medieval core. The Great Hall boasts superb carved Tudor panelling, and a marvellous 17th century staircase leads to the recently restored Great Drawing Room. Other rooms were designed in ‘gothic’ style by James Wyatt in 1800. OPEN/ADMISSIONS: Open all year by appointment for parties containing a minimum of 10 persons at a cost of £9.00 per person. Alternatively individuals can book tours on prearranged dates via www.invitationtoview.co.uk.

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n the daylight, the mansion is as astonishing time capsule, opening a window directly into the Victorian era when a wealthy landowner and a brilliant young architect were struggling to realise a vision of a new kind of country house – part home, part monastery. Built to the same standards as the medieval cathedrals, the mansion would have had one of the finest private chapels in Britain, had it ever been finished. OPEN: 1 April to 31 October, 11am to 5pm. Adults £6.50, Concessions £5.50. Children under 14 are free (if accompanied by a paying adult).

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Dorset/Exeter/Gloucestershire


Southwest England

Gloucestershire/Somerset/Wiltshire

GLOUCESTERSHIRE WARWICKSHIRE RAILWAY

GLOUCESTER CATHEDRAL

www.gwsr.com THE RAILWAY STATION, TODDINGTON, GLOUCESTERSHIRE GL54 5DT T: +44 (0) 1242 621405 E: info@gwsr.com

www.gloucestercathedral.org.uk 12 COLLEGE GREEN, GLOUCESTER GL1 2LX T: +44 (0) 1452 528095 E: reception@gloucestercathedral.org.uk

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njoy a 24-mile round trip on a heritage railway, which is volunteer run and operates from the principal stations at Toddington or Cheltenham Racecourse, both offering ample free parking and disabled facilities. Cafés are at Toddington and Winchcombe, with light refreshments on the trains. Add in glorious Cotswold scenery and a friendly welcome to make a great day out. ADMISSIONS/OPEN: Trains run from March until the end of October but please visit our website for the full timetable and fares.

loucester Cathedral warmly welcomes you to one of the finest medieval buildings in the country, where a wealth of history and architecture awaits you. v Guided tours and group tours available v Henry III was crowned here v Tombs of Edward II and Robert Duke of Normandy v Beautiful fan-vaulted medieval cloisters v Spectacular Great East Window OPEN: Daily from 8am until evensong.

THE ENGLISH BUS www.theenglishbus.com TOURS DEPART FROM CENTRAL LONDON T: +44 (0) 207 183 8427 E: mail@theenglishbus.com

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ward-winning small group guided tours from London to the best of Britain and beyond. Visit Stonehenge, Oxford, Bath, Stratford and more…

WEST SOMERSET RAILWAY www.west-somerset-railway.co.uk THE RAILWAY STATION, MINEHEAD, SOMERSET, TA24 5BG T: +44 (0) 1643 704996 E: info@wsrail.net

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ngland’s longest heritage railway runs for 20 miles between Bishops Lydeard (four miles from Taunton) and Minehead. Places of interest along the way include the old harbour town of Watchet, Cleeve Abbey at Washford and medieval Dunster with its castle. Steam trains operate on selected dates throughout the year and daily from mid-May to early October. New for 2014: Heritage Hunter App.

ADMISSION: Adult return fare: £17; senior (60+): £15.40. Child (5 to 15 years): £8.50; family (two adults and up to four children): £45.

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NATURE IN ART

www.nature-in-art.org.uk WALLSWORTH HALL, A38, TWIGWORTH, GLOUCESTER, GL2 9PA T: +44 (0) 1452 731422 E: enquiries@nature-in-art.org.uk

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iscover the world’s first museum dedicated to art inspired by nature and see artists at work from Feb to Nov.

OPEN: Tues to Sun & BH 10am to 5pm.

For a key to symbols please see page 135


ARUNDELLS www.arundells.org 59 CATHEDRAL CLOSE, SALISBURY, WILTSHIRE, SP1 2EN T: +44 (0) 1722 326546 E: info@arundells.org

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rundells was a Medieval Canonry in the 13th century and probably first used by Henry of Blunston, Archdeacon of Dorset, who died in 1316. From the mid-1550s the house was leased by the Dean and Chapter of the Cathedral to lay tenants, notably including Richard Mompesson and John Wyndham. Much of the current house’s appearance is down to Wyndham who lived here between 1718 and 1750. In the 1800s it housed the Godolphin girls’ school and a boys’ boarding school (not at the same time). After a period of decay and neglect in the 1960s, when demolition was considered by the Chapter, Arundells was faithfully renovated in 1964 by Mr and Mrs Robert Hawkings,

with further refurbishment by the former Prime Minister Sir Edward Heath KG MBE when he came to live here in 1985. Arundells reflects his time in public office and contains his private collections. View his paintings, sailing and musical memorabilia, Oriental and European ceramics, cartoons, bronzes, photographs and much more, just as they were when he lived here. The house is surrounded by a beautiful two-acre medieval walled garden with perfect views of Salisbury Cathedral. OPEN: Until 29 October from Sat-Weds. Admission to the house is by guided tour only with up to 12 persons per tour. Please see website for booking details. DOWNSTAIRS ONLY

FOOTPATH HOLIDAYS

COMPTON VERNEY

www.footpath-holidays.com 16 NORTON BAVANT, WARMINSTER, WILTSHIRE, BA12 7BB T: +44 (0) 1985 840049 E: enquiries@footpath-holidays.co.uk

www.comptonverney.org.uk COMPTON VERNEY, WARWICKSHIRE, CV35 9HZ T: +44 (0) 1926 645 500 E: info@comptonverney.org.uk

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ootpath Holidays is a family-run company, which has been organising top quality walking holidays for over 30 years, using hand-picked accommodation in wonderful locations throughout Britain. Have you always wanted to explore the beautiful Cotswold villages or the rugged coast of Cornwall on foot? Well now you can. Holiday options include ‘moving on’ each day along a long distance trail with luggage transported, or enjoying the highlights of an area from a single base. You can choose between a self-guided walking holiday or joining a small guided group, or even ask us to arrange a bespoke trip.

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et within a Grade I listed mansion remodelled in the 1760s, Compton Verney offers a unique art gallery experience. Relax and explore the 120 acres of ‘Capability’ Brown parkland, discover collections of internationally-significant art, enjoy free tours and a programme of events. 2014 exhibitions include Moore Rodin, displaying works by Henry Moore and Auguste Rodin and British Folk Art. OPEN: 15 Feb-14 Dec, Tues to Sun: 11am to 5pm. Closed Mon (except Bank holidays). ADMISSION: Collection and Grounds: Adults: £8. Children: £3. Seniors: £7.20. Under-5s: free. Exhibition, Collection and Grounds: Adults: £15. Children: £3. Seniors: £13.

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Southwest England

Wiltshire/Warwickshire


Heart of England

Bedfordshire/Derbyshire

SHUTTLEWORTH

JOHN BUNYAN MUSEUM & LIBRARY

www.shuttleworth.org THE SHUTTLEWORTH COLLECTION, SHUTTLEWORTH (OLD WARDEN) AERODROME, NR BIGGLESWADE, BEDFORDSHIRE, SG18 9EP T: : +44 (0)1767 627927 E: enquiries@shuttleworth.org

www.bunyanmeeting.co.uk/museum BUNYAN MEETING, MILL STREET, BEDFORD, MK40 3EU T: +44 (0) 1234 270303 E: curator@bunyanmeeting.co.uk

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he John Bunyan Museum tells the story of John Bunyan (1628-1688), the renowned author, pastor and preacher. Visitors are able to take a walk through Bunyan’s life and times; see 17th-century Bedford, hear Bunyan tell his story, and visit him in prison. Family friendly trails are available to help children explore the museum. Admission free. ‘Discover the Bedford man whose writings touched the world’ OPEN: The museum is open 11am to 4pm (last admission 3.45pm), Tues to Sat, Feb half-term to Oct half-term (closed Good Friday).

huttleworth is home to a unique collection of over 40 historic and airworthy aeroplanes, and vintage vehicles. Also resident is the 1820s Swiss Garden, an outstanding example of the Swiss picturesque style with later Victorian enhancements. At Shuttleworth special events and family activities take place throughout the year, with the aeroplanes flying at themed airshows from May to October. OPEN: Daily 9.30am to 5pm, last admission 4pm (see website for seasonal variations and exclusions).

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GUIDE DOG ONLY

CHATSWORTH www.chatsworth.org CHATSWORTH, BAKEWELL, DERBYSHIRE, DE45 1PP T: +44 (0) 1246 565 300 E: info@chatsworth.org

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hatsworth, set in the heart of the Peak District, is home to the Duke and Duchess of Devonshire, and has been passed down through 16 generations of the Cavendish family. As well as its inspiring architecture, landscape and history, Chatsworth also houses one of Europe’s most significant art collections. As always you can admire the splendour of the house, explore the garden, and meet the animals in the farmyard and adventure playground. You can also experience a taste of Chatsworth in the gift shops, many restaurants and the award-winning estate farm shop, or take a stroll through the beautiful 1000-acre park.

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2014 continues to offer great days out for groups, and there is always something new to see and do. Our calendar of events includes the Food and Drink fair, summer flower festival ‘Florabundance’, Country Fair and Christmas market; and from November the house will be transformed for Christmas.

OPEN: 16 March to 23 Dec, 11am to 5.30pm. See website for ticketing info.

For a key to symbols please see page 135


TATTERSHALL CASTLE

GUNBY HALL AND GARDENS

www.nationaltrust.org.uk/tattershall-castle SLEAFORD ROAD, TATTERSHALL, LINCOLNSHIRE, LN4 4LR T: +44 (0) 1526 342 543 E: tattershallcastle@nationaltrust.org.uk

www.nationaltrust.org.uk/gunby-hall SPILSBY, LINCOLNSHIRE, PE23 5SS T: +44 (0) 1754 890102 E: gunbyhall@nationaltrust.org.uk

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attershall Castle is a unique medieval brick castle rising dramatically above the Lincolnshire countryside. Discover 800 years of the castle’s history, from palatial dwelling to cattle shed; romantic ruin to restoration. Explore all six floors of this imposing ancient monument, from its basement to the battlements and climb all 149 steps of its spiral staircase to marvel at the views from the roof. OPEN: 16 Feb to 2 Nov, 7 days a week, 11am to 5pm; 8 Nov to 14 Dec, weekends only, 11am-3pm. Admission: Adults: £6.20; children: £3.60; Family: £16.

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SOUTHWELL MINSTER

COTTESBROOKE HALL & GARDENS

www.southwellminster.org.uk CHURCH STREET, SOUTHWELL, NOTTINGHAMSHIRE, NG25 0HD T: +44 (0) 1636 812649 E: nikki@southwellminster.org.uk

www. cottesbrooke.co.uk COTTESBROOKE, NORTHAMPTON NN6 8PF T: +44 (0) 1604 505808 E: welcome@cottesbrooke.co.uk

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outhwell Minster is a superb cathedral and minster church with a Norman nave which is one of the finest in Europe. Other features include the magnificent ‘Angel Window’ and the world renowned stone carvings the ‘Leaves of Southwell’ in the Chapter House. The visitors’ centre incorporates the Minster shop, Refectory and the audio-visual centre. All our services, events, exhibitions and concerts are on our website. OPEN: Daily, 8am to 7pm. Admission free, donations welcome.

homely country house dating back to 1700 set in Victorian walled gardens at the foot of the Lincolnshire Wolds, an Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty. Explore three floors of the hall, which are home to an interesting collection amassed over generations from 1700 until 1963. Chat to the room guides to find out stories about Gunby’s interesting past. Stroll through the eight-acre gardens and enjoy the different areas: sweeping formal lawns, flower borders, vegetable gardens and wildflower corners. OPEN: Please see website for details on opening times.

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ottesbrooke is a wonderful Queen Anne house, dating from 1702 and set in delightful award-winning gardens in rural Northamptonshire. The hall is home to The Woolavington Collection of sporting art, which is the finest of its type in Europe. The remarkable 18th-century landscaping of the park, its vistas and lakes provides the backdrop to the hall. OPEN: 1 May – 25 September. May & June: Wed and Thurs 2:00pm – 5:30pm. July, Aug and Sept: Thurs only 2:00pm – 5:30pm, plus Bank Holiday Mondays (May – Sept) 2:00pm – 5:30pm. GUIDE DOG ONLY

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Heart of England

Lincolnshire/Northampton/Nottinghamshire


Heart of England

Nottinghamshire

THE MUSEUM OF THE HORSE www.horsemuseum.co.uk THE NEWCASTLE ARMS, MARKET PLACE , TUXFORD, NG22 0LA T: +44 (0) 1 777 872 152 E: info@horsemuseum.co.uk

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he new Museum of the Horse is the first museum in England dedicated to the history of the horse and its relationship with man over thousands of years. The fascinating collection covers the period from 600 BC to the present day. There are hundreds of bits to browse, stirrups and spurs as well as saddles, clothing and other accoutrements. Many interesting stories are briefly explained including the history of high school, breeding policies, racing, hunting, the coaching era, pit ponies, the side saddle and early veterinary work. There are items from many parts of the world and enough to

interest the non-horse person as well as the enthusiast. It is hoped it might painlessly develop in children an interest in history and geography. A small museum but lots to see. Easily accessed off the A1 in north Nottinghamshire. OPEN: All year round, Mon to Sat 10am to 4pm and from 1 Sept until Christmas on Sundays, too. ADMISSION: Adults: £5; children and seniors: £3.

SALLY MITCHELL’S GALLERY www.sallymitchell.com THE NEWCASTLE ARMS, 1 MARKET PLACE, TUXFORD, NOTTS, NG22 0LA T: +44 (0) 1777 838 234 E: info@sallymitchell.com

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ally Mitchell’s gallery is one of, if not the largest, gallery of sporting and animal paintings in the country. With internationally known artists the gallery has been established for nearly half a century and as well as carrying a large stock of high quality paintings, it also has a large range of limited edition prints, beautiful greeting cards, books and a selection of gifts. There are superb Christmas cards too. Always a friendly and relaxed atmosphere where you can browse for hours. With the museum upstairs and a coffee shop on the premises and plenty of free parking it is a great place for an afternoon out and to browse for birthday and Christmas cards and presents.

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OPEN: All year round Mon to Sat 8.30am to 4.30pm and from 1 Sept until Christmas it is open on Sundays, too. ADMISSION: Free

For a key to symbols please see page 135


TUDOR WORLD www.tudorworld.com 40 SHEEP STREET, STRATFORD UPON AVON, WARWICKSHIRE, CV37 6EE T: +44 (0) 1789 298070 E: info@falstaffexperience.co.uk

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udor World is the only museum in the country devoted to the Tudor era. The award-winning museum is situated in the heart of the historic town of Stratford upon Avon within a grade 2 listed Tudor building. The history of this Tudor property and the world it occupied is related through reconstructed sets and multi-sensory equipment.

OPEN: Every day except Christmas day, 10.30am to 5.30pm. Adults £5.50; children £3; seniors £4.50; families £12.50.

RENISHAW HALL & GARDENS www.renishaw-hall.co.uk RENISHAW HALL, RENISHAW, DERBYSHIRE S21 3WB T: +44 (0) 1246 432310 E: enquiries@renishaw-hall.co.uk

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hether you are a first time or seasoned visitor, Renishaw Hall is a truly beautiful place to visit. The Hall has been in the Sitwell family for nearly 400 years and generations of the family have made their mark on the architecture, gardens and wider estate, which comprise Renishaw and so much of what you see on your visit. Today, current owner Alexandra Sitwell invites you to visit her home and the gardens for which Renishaw is so famous. Italianate in their influence, the gardens feature seasonal highlights including magnolias, bluebells and delphiniums. The

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COVENTRY CATHEDRAL www.coventrycathedral.org.uk 1 HILL TOP, COVENTRY, CV1 5AB T: +44 (0) 24 7652 1200 E: enquiries@coventrycathedral.org.uk

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n extraordinary place, Coventry Cathedral has a story you can’t ignore. There are a 1,000 years of history from the medieval priory and the ruins of the bombed Cathedral of St Michael to the modern cathedral which is one of Britain’s most popular 20th-century buildings. Discover the art, the diverse architecture and the history or simply soak up the atmosphere of Coventry’s Cathedral Quarter. OPEN: Open daily – Monday to Saturday – 10am to 4pm (last entry). Sunday 12noon to 3pm (last entry).

Sitwells have always been avid collectors and patrons of the arts and the history of the family is filled with writers, innovators and eccentrics, evidence of which can be seen on fascinating hall tours. Tours of the historic vineyard, including wine tasting, are available by appointment for groups. A café, plant sales and shop are on site throughout the season.

OPEN: The gardens are open Wednesday to Sunday and Bank Holiday Mondays , 10.30am to 4.30pm, from 29 March to 28 September 2014. Hall tours are available to the public on Fridays and at weekends in August. Group tours of the hall and gardens are available throughout the year. ADMISSION TO GARDENS: Adults: £6.50, children: £3.50 (free under 5), seniors: £5.50. Free entry to RHS / HHA members.

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Heart of England

Warwickshire


Heart of England

Worcestershire Take a journey though time with our free audio tour and mix with past Royal Worcester Artists who regularly work in our galleries. Special ‘Behind the scenes visits’ and refreshments are available for groups.

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Hartlebury Explore the wonders of Worcestershire through fascinating objects, exhibitions and events, all housed in the former home of the Bishops of Worcester.

The Commandery, Worcester Peel back the layers and discover the Commandery’s fascinating history, from its beginnings as a monastic hospital through the English Civil War and up to present day. Worcester City Art Gallery & Museum High quality contemporary and historic art exhibitions in a beautiful Victorian setting, also home to the Worcestershire Regimental Museum. Please check website for opening hours and admissions

www.museumsworcestershire.org.uk .org

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For a key to symbols please see page 135


www.visitworcestershire.org For information on fantastic attractions, events and accommodation in beautiful Worcestershire.

North Worcestershire For stunning countryside, Bewdley • Bromsgrove • Kidderminster • Redditch • Stourport-on-Severn

eat

stay

visit

picture postcard villages, a wealth of attractions and excellent accommodation head for North Worcestershire. Welcome to North

Worcestershire N

orth Worcestershire has an abundance of exciting or relaxing things to do and lots of lovely places to stay.

The magnificent River Severn runs through one of the largest oak woodlands in England and beautiful countryside can be found at every turn. More rivers and canals crisscross the county. You can be thrilled by a high wire treetop adventure; take a lazy river or canal cruise; enjoy historic buildings and modern shops; travel on the heritage steam railway or be stunned by getting a close encounter with wild animals at the Safari Park.

Take an atmospheric steam train journey along the beautiful Severn Valley Pre-book and save at

www.svr.co.uk or call: 01299 403816

Mon-Fri 9am – 5pm · The Railway Station, Bewdley, Worcs DY12 1BG

KIDDERMINSTER · BEWDLEY · BRIDGNORTH

There are museums galore and an extensive programme of art and cultural events on offer throughout the year in and around our five towns. Come visit, eat, stay ... relax and enjoy!

SCAN WITH YOUR SMARTPHONE

For events and more info visit:

www.visitnorthworcestershire.co.uk

Visitor Guide to North Worcestershire

www.visitnorthworcestershire.co.uk

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Download or request a brochure at www.visitnorthworcestershire.co.uk BRITAIN | THE 2014 GUIDE

175

Heart of England

Worcestershire


Heart of England

Worcestershire

MUSEUM • BROADWAY OPEN

In the heart of the Cotswolds, the Ashmolean Museum Broadway combines an important historic house with displays of fine furniture; ceramics and paintings. Works include paintings by Gainsborough, Reynolds and significant pieces from local craftsmen such as Sheldon tapestries and Winchcombe Pottery.

Tuesday–Sunday and Bank Holiday Monday 10am–4pm (10am–5pm from 1 March 2014)

Tudor House, High Street, Broadway, Worcestershire WR12 7DP

PLAN YOUR VISIT www.ashmoleanbroadway.org

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For a key to symbols please see page 135


MANY OF SUNDERLAND’S ATTRACTIONS AND EVENTS ARE FREE AND OFFER A GREAT FUN-PACKED FAMILY DAY OUT www.sunderland.gov.uk/seeit-doit

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pending time (rather than money) as a family is so important; sharing experiences and creating lasting memories. Sunderland has a surprising mix of fun things to see and do indoors and out, as well as good value places to eat and drink that can keep the whole family happy and entertained. As well as interactive displays and family-friendly exhibitions in the city’s museums there are often arts and crafts activities, particularly in the holidays. Families looking for action can try skiing, snowboarding or snowtubing at Silksworth Sports Complex; head into the North Sea with the Marine Activities Centre team; scale the Sunderland Wall; visit the city’s wheeled sports park, try

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go-karting or take a dip in the giant 50m pool at Sunderland Aquatic Centre. At Down at the Farm children can meet and hold some of the smaller animals, or see the rare birds and fluffy ducklings at Washington Wetland Centre. There are also family-friendly shows at Sunderland Empire or Arts Centre Washington and of course great adventure play areas in many of the city’s parks, notably Barnes and Herrington Country Park. And who can resist building sandcastles and donning wellies to explore rockpools? To find out more visit www. sunderland.gov.uk/seeit-doit and download the FREE See it Do it app from the iTunes App Store.

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Northern England

County Durham


Northern England

Cumbria

KIRKLINTON HALL AND GARDENS www.kirklintonhall.co.uk KIRKLINTON, CARLISLE, CUMBRIA, CA6 6BB T: +44 (0) 16977 48850 E: info@kirklintonhall.co.uk

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djacent to the 12th century de Boyville stronghold, Kirklinton Hall is said to have been built from the stone of the famous court. Constructed in the 1670s, extended in the 1870s and ruined in the 1970s, the hall has been a Restoration Great House, an RAF base, a school, a gangsters’ gambling den, and worse. The house was used by the RAF during the Second World War before retired farmers Doris and Willie Hay bought it in 1948 and transformed it into a nightclub and hotel in the sixties. Visitors can walk in the footsteps of Norman knights, cavalier commanders, Victorian plutocrats and even the notorious Kray

twins. The facade is largely complete and the structure boasts ornate Jacobean-style Dutch gables and a garden waterfall. Today Kirklinton Hall and its gardens are being restored to their former glory in a painstaking and fascinating process. There are 14 acres of garden and grounds consisting of formal terraces, a walled working kitchen garden, Quince Grove and Pell-Mell ground, and the Faerie Glen – a woodland walk populated by fairies and pigs! Kirklinton Hall is also the official home of SlowFood Cumbria and is available to hire for weddings and events and it has been described as a ‘spectacularly sinister ruin’ by Pevsner’s Buildings of England.

OPEN: 1 April to 30 Sept, 12pm to 5pm, Sundays and weekdays. ADMISSION: Adults: £4, children: £1.

THE ROMAN ARMY MUSEUM www.vindolanda.com GREENHEAD, BRAMPTON, CA8 7JB T: +44 (0) 1434 344 277 E: info@vindolanda.com

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ituated next to one of the most complete sections of Hadrian’s Wall and lying in the scenic Northumberland National Park, the Roman Army Museum uses stunning real 3D technology in a specially designed film theatre, alongside clever interactive displays that enable visitors to understand what life was like for soldiers on this most northern frontier. This accessible museum has its own Latin classroom with a teacher who emerges from the past via a hologram to give a lesson in maths and morals, which is entertaining for all ages. The museum also has a charming café and wonderful gift shop filled with books, souvenirs and even

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treats for yourself. Fantastic discounted admission prices apply when purchasing a joint ticket with Roman Vindolanda. Please follow us on facebook and twitter.

OPEN: 8 Feb to 31 Oct, from 10am to 5pm in Feb, March and October; and from 10am to 6pm from April to Sept. ADMISSION: Adults: £5.25, children: £3, seniors: £4.50.

For a key to symbols please see page 135


ROMAN TOURS

NATIONAL FOOTBALL MUSEUM

www.romantoursuk.com 23 GROSVENOR STREET CHESTER. CH12DD T: +44 (0) 1978 761264 E: info@romantoursuk.com

www.nationalfootballmuseum.com URBIS BUILDING, CATHEDRAL GARDENS, MANCHESTER, M4 3BG T: +44 (0) 161 605 8200 E: info@nationalfootballmuseum.com

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www.ford-and-etal.co.uk THE VISITOR CENTRE, HEATHERSLAW, CORNHILL-ON-TWEED, NORTHUMBERLAND, TD12 4TJ T: +44 (0) 1890 820338 E: tourism@ford-and-etal.co.uk

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he ‘hidden gem’ of Northumberland, Ford & Etal is a place of voyage and discovery – an ideal retreat whether you seek peace and tranquillity, history and heritage, outdoor adventure, a family day out, a special event, or a walk in the countryside. From a ride on the steam railway to the famous murals in Lady Waterford Hall there’s so much on offer, whatever your age or interest – and whatever the weather. Tour Etal Castle to learn about the Battle of Flodden, the bloodiest conflict ever to take place in these borderlands – then follow this with a walk around the battlefield itself. Visit

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EXCEPT ASSISTANCE DOGS

Heatherslaw Corn Mill and view the age-old milling process from beginning to end, then take home some delicious fresh flour. And at Hay Farm Heavy Horse Centre meet the magnificent Clydesdales who worked the land in days gone by. With local crafts and food, antiques and collectables, quirky gift shops, traditional tearooms and the only thatched pub in Northumberland, there’s plenty to fill your day – or book into one of the comfortable guest houses and stay a few days.

OPEN: The estate’s grounds are open all year round – see the website for specific opening times of attractions. ADMISSION: Entry to the estate is free of charge, as is parking; see the website for individual attractions charges. some restrictions

FORD & ETAL ESTATES

he National Football Museum in Manchester city centre is the home of some of football’s greatest stories. This unique museum brings the history of the beautiful game to life across four floors, with world-famous objects and fantastic interactive galleries. Packed full with games and quizzes, touch-screen technology and seven interactive Football Plus+ games, there’s something for everyone to enjoy. OPEN: Daily. Mon to Sat, 10am to 5pm. Sunday, 11am to 5pm. Entrance is free.

not all venues

ascinating walking tours of Roman Chester with an authentic Roman Soldier as your guide. For people who like something fresh, interesting, factual and fun these tours offer a perspective on history that perhaps you haven’t considered before, touring Chester with a Roman Soldier guiding you on a light-hearted journey through Chester’s Roman Heritage. Let us show you the hidden pieces of our past beneath the heart of the city of Chester. OPEN: The tours run each day at 12pm and 3pm and start at the Tourist Information Centre next to the town hall.

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Northern England

Chester/Manchester/Northumberland


Northern England

Northumberland

BAMBURGH CASTLE www.bamburghcastle.com BAMBURGH, NORTHUMBERLAND, NE69 7DF T: +44 (0) 1668 214 515 E: administrator@bamburghcastle.com

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panning nine acres of land on its rocky plateau high above the Northumberland coastline, Bamburgh is one of the largest inhabited castles in the entire country. Explore 14 public areas and learn more about the castle and its inhabitants from over 3,000 items on display, including arms, armour, glass, china, furniture and artwork. Discover the legacy of the Armstrong empire in the Armstrong and Aviation Artefacts Museum. Experience the sights, stories and atmosphere of over 2,000 years of exhilarating history. This huge whinstone outcrop

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forced upwards by volcanic activity has witnessed a succession of crowns. From wooden palisades to the present stone built fortress, the castle has kept watch over the coastline 150 feet below for many centuries and has witnessed dark tales, bloody battles, spellbinding legends and millionaire benefactors.

OPEN: Until 2 November 2014, daily 10am to 5pm, last admission 4pm. From 3 Nov 2014 to 6 Feb 2015 weekends only 11am to 4.30pm. Last admission 3.30pm. ADMISSION: Adult £9.95, Child £4.50, Senior £9, Family £25.

For a key to symbols please see page 135


ROMAN VINDOLANDA www.vindolanda.com CHESTERHOLM MUSEUM, BARDON MILL, HEXHAM, NORTHUMBERLAND T: +44 (0) 1434 344 277 E: info@vindolanda.com

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oman Vindolanda offers visitors an award-winning museum and the opportunity to explore the most exciting archaeological site in Europe. Vindolanda is home to the ‘Vindolanda Writing Tablets’, small thin wooden letters that were voted Britain’s top treasure by the British Museum. A collection of these precious documents along with thousands of other extraordinary artifacts from everyday Roman life are displayed in the modern museum. Live excavations take place from April to September and visitors can watch history being uncovered. Visitors can also enjoy the beautiful gardens and the excellent tea

room. Full details of family days and events can be found on the website. Fantastic discounted admission rates apply when purchasing a joint ticket with the Roman Army Museum. Please follow us on facebook and twitter.

OPEN: 8 Feb to 31 Oct, from 10am to 5pm in Feb, March and October; and from 10am to 6pm from April to Sept. ADMISSION: Adults: £6.50, children: £4, seniors: £5.50.

NEWBY HALL AND GARDENS

SKIPTON CASTLE

www.newbyhall.com RIPON, NORTH YORKSHIRE, HG4 5AE T: +44 (0) 845 4504068 E: info@newbyhall.com

www.skiptoncastle.co.uk SKIPTON, NORTH YORKSHIRE BD23 1AW T: +44 (0) 1756 792442 E: info@skiptoncastle.co.uk

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his graceful country house epitomises the Georgian ‘Age of Elegance’; its beautifully restored interior presents Robert Adam’s expertise at its best. The award-winning gardens boast one of Europe’s longest double herbaceous borders and a thoughtfully designed adventure garden for children, with a miniature railway, an island fort, pedaloes and dancing fountains. A stylish shop, top-class restaurant and quality plant stall complete a wonderful family attraction. OPEN: 1 April to 28 Sept, Tues to Sun (plus bank holidays) and every day in July/ Aug. Gardens 11am to 5.30pm, house by guided tour – see website for times.

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or over 900 years Skipton Castle has stood firm through wars and sieges at the gateway to the Yorkshire Dales. Once home to the famous Clifford Lords, it is one of the best preserved and most complete medieval castles in England.

OPEN: Daily from 10am, Sunday from 12pm. Last admission 6pm (October to February 4pm) ADMISSIONS: Adults: £7.30, Children (5-17): £4.50, Children under 5: free, Over 60s and students: £6.50.

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Northern England

Yorkshire


Northern England

Yorkshire

CLIFFORD’S TOWER

WHITBY ABBEY

www.english-heritage.org.uk/cliffords TOWER STREET, YORK, NORTH YORKSHIRE, YO1 9SA T: +44 (0) 1904 646940 E: cliffords.tower@english-heritage.org.uk

www.english-heritage.org.uk/whitby ABBEY LANE, WHITBY, NORTH YORKSHIRE, YO22 4JT T: +44 (0) 1947 603568 E: whitby.abbey@english-heritage.org.uk

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he stunning panoramic views from the top of Clifford’s Tower, out over the historic city of York, makes it one of the most popular attractions in Yorkshire. Set on a tall mound in the heart of Old York, this imposing tower is almost all that remains of York Castle, which was originally built by William the Conqueror.

et on a headland high over the popular seaside town, Whitby Abbey is the perfect choice for a great value day trip in Yorkshire. It’s easy to see how Bram Stoker was inspired by its gothic splendour when writing Dracula. This is one of the most atmospheric visitor attractions on the Yorkshire coast. Discover the long history of the abbey and the daily life of the monks who once lived here as you explore the ancient ruins.

OPEN: Open 7 days a week, all year round. OPEN: Visit www.english-heritage.org.uk for opening times.

KEIGHLEY & WORTH VALLEY RAILWAY www.kwvr.co.uk THE RAILWAY STATION, HAWORTH, WEST YORKSHIRE, BD22 8NJ T: +44 (0) 1535 645214 E: admin@kwvr.co.uk

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tep back in time on The Railway Children’s railway in the heart of Brontë Country, a perfect day out for all the family! Immerse yourself in the history of the railways and experience a really big, noisy adventure. Journey through history aboard a vintage train and enjoy a snapshot of The Railway’s glory days. Experience the magic of the fantastic collection of engines, wagons and carriages. Explore the two award winning transport museums, with loads of things to do, experts to talk to and hands on fun. Relive the well-loved tale of the The Railway Children as you watch the vintage steam trains puff their way in and out of the

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valley – don’t forget to hop off the train at Edwardian Oakworth station – a key location in the famous 1970 film. Here at Keighley & Worth Valley Railway there is more to do than first meets the eye. It’s so much more than just a train ride.

OPEN: The railway is open all year round. Trains run every weekend throughout the year and daily in summer and during school holidays. Please visit the website for full opening details and timetables. ADMISSION: To make the most of your visit, we recommend the purchase of a Rover or Full Line Return ticket. The Rover tickets are perfect for exploring Brontë Country. It allows a full days travel, as well as access to the two museums. Hop on and off the trains as you explore the towns, villages and attractions that surround the line. You can also jump on board at any station, where Single and Return tickets are available. Rover: £15, Family Rover: £35 (2 Adults & up to 3 Children), Concessions Rover: £12.50, Full Line Return: £10.00 (Adult), £5.00 (Children 5-15). Free travel available to children aged under 5.

For a key to symbols please see page 135


Scotland

EDINBURGH CASTLE www.edinburghcastle.gov.uk CASTLEHILL, EDINBURGH, MIDLOTHIAN EH1 2NG T: +44 (0) 131 225 9846 E: hs.explorer@historic-scotland.gov.uk

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mighty fortress, the defender of the nation and a worldfamous visitor attraction – Edinburgh Castle has dominated the city’s skyline for centuries. The castle’s powerful stone walls have withstood many sieges and its sumptuous apartments were an important residence of Scottish kings and queens. Today it is home to Scotland’s crown jewels, three military museums, the National War Memorial, the Prisons of War exhibition and much more besides. Every August, the castle esplanade plays host to The Royal Edinburgh Military Tattoo, a unique blend of international music, ceremony, entertainment and

STIRLING CASTLE www.stirlingcastle.gov.uk CASTLE ESPLANADE, STIRLING FK8 1EJ T: + 44 (0) 1786 450000 E: hs.explorer@historic-scotland.gov.uk

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here’s now more than ever to see and do at Stirling Castle. The Royal Palace, which was the childhood home of Mary Queen of Scots, has been returned to its Renaissance magnificence. Visitors will be met by costumed characters in the roles of royalty, bodyguards and servants who give insights into the royal Stewart Court. A new exhibition focuses on the fascinating archaeology discovered during the palace refurbishment and younger visitors can get hands on with history in the Palace Vaults, where they can try on period costume and learn to play medieval instruments. Visitors can also explore the Great Hall, Chapel Royal, Kitchens,

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theatre. Visit www.edintattoo.co.uk for more information. The castle’s three shops sell a wide range of gifts, souvenirs, jewellery, books, food and whisky. Enjoy light snacks, hot meals, or food on the go in the Redcoat Café, or visit the Edinburgh Castle Tea Rooms and treat yourself to a delicious traditional afternoon tea. Please note that opening times for the independent museums may vary. We recommend at least two hours to see the major attractions within the castle. Parking is only for drivers with a blue disabled badge. There are steep inclines and steps – mobility vehicle available.

OPEN: Open all year. 1 April – 30 September 9.30am to 6pm and 1 October – 31 March 9.30am to 5pm. Last tickets 1 hour before closing. Closed Christmas Day and Boxing Day. Visit the website for New Year opening times. ADMISSION: Adult £16.00 Concession £12.80 Child £9.60.

Regimental Museum and visit the Tapestry Studio where they can meet the weavers who are recreating the Hunt of the Unicorn Tapestries. Guided tours of the castle and Argyll’s Lodging are also recommended. The specially-designed Access Gallery in the Palace Vaults allows disabled visitors to experience areas within the castle which are inaccessible and a courtesy vehicle is available for those who have difficulty with steep inclines.

OPEN: Open all year, 7 days a week. 1 April – 30 September: 9.30am – 6pm. 1 October – 31 March: 9.30am - 5pm. Last ticket sold 45mins before closing. Regimental Museum closes 45mins before the castle. ADMISSION: Adult £14.00, Child £7.50, Concessions £11.00.

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Scotland

ST ST ANDREWS CASTLE www.historic-scotland.gov.uk/places THE SCORES, ST ANDREWS, FIFE KY16 9AR T: +44 (0) 1334 477196 E: hs.explorer@historic-scotland.gov.uk

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or centuries, the castle was the residence of Scotland’s most powerful churchmen. Some of its remarkable secrets are hewn into the rock beneath its battlements. You can explore a unique underground mine and countermine, dug during the brutal siege of 1546–7.

WILDERNESS COTTAGES ST ANDREWS CATHEDRAL www.historic-scotland.gov.uk/places THE PENDS, ST ANDREWS KY16 9QL T: +44 (0) 1334 472563 E: hs.explorer@historic-scotland.gov.uk

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his magnificent medieval ruin stands on a site used for Christian worship since the 8th century, when the relics of St Andrew were reputedly brought here.

DUNVEGAN CASTLE AND GARDENS www.dunvegancastle.com DUNVEGAN, ISLE OF SKYE T: +44 (0) 1470 521206 E: info@dunvegancastle.com

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o visit to the Isle of Skye would be complete without savouring the wealth of history offered by Dunvegan Castle and Gardens. Built on a rock in an idyllic loch-side setting, Dunvegan is the oldest continuously inhabited castle in Scotland and has been the ancestral home of the Chiefs of Clan MacLeod for 800 years. There is plenty to do for all visitors, including: • Tour the historic castle – still home to the Clan MacLeod Chief. • Seal boat trips – you cannot get closer to the protected common seals anywhere else on Skye.

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www.wildernesscottages.co.uk ROEBUCK COTTAGE, ERROGIE, INVERNESS, IV2 6UH T: +44 (0) 1456 486358 E: bookings@wildernesscottages.co.uk

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ilderness Cottages offers a selection of quality self-catering properties throughout Scotland from rustic appeal to 5-star luxury, countryside to seashore. Popular areas include the Loch Ness region, the Isle of Skye and the West Coast. Cottages range in size from small and cosy which are ideal for honeymoon couples and romantic holidays, or larger holiday cottages to sleep from six to twelve. Short breaks are available and pets are welcome. See the 2014 brochure online or order one by phone.

• Fabulous shops with a huge range of Highland jewellery, knitwear, gifts and Harris Tweed lines. • Sample our excellent coffee, homemade soup and snacks at MacLeod Tables Café. • Enjoy the Walled Garden with its herbaceous borders and Victorian-style Glasshouse, also the formal Round Garden and spectacular Water Gardens. • Why not book one of our holiday cottages? These are beautifully appointed and open all year round.

OPEN: 1st April – 15th October 10am – 5.30pm daily (last entry 5pm) 16th October – 31st March open for groups by appointment – weekdays only. Castle and Gardens closed Christmas and New Year.

For a key to symbols please see page 135


Scotland

URQUHART CASTLE www.historic-scotland.gov.uk/places DRUMNADROCHIT, INVERNESS, INVERNESS-SHIRE IV63 6XJ T: +44 (0) 1456 450551 E: hs.explorer@historic-scotland.gov.uk

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iscover 1,000 years of drama, experience a glimpse of medieval life and enjoy stunning views over Loch Ness from the ruins of the greatest castle in the Highlands. Climb the Grant Tower that watches over the iconic loch, peer into a miserable prison cell, said to have held the legendary Gaelic bard Domhnall Donn, and imagine the splendid banquets staged in the great hall. A more comfortable view of the iconic ruins, against a backdrop of Loch Ness and the hills of the Great Glen, can be enjoyed from the café. Urquhart’s stories are also told through a remarkable collection of artefacts left by its residents, historic replicas, including

a full-sized, working trebuchet siege engine, and a short film. The castle has a distinctly Highland heritage and the site has witnessed some of the most dramatic chapters in our nation’s history. This is where St Columba is said to have worked miracles in the 6th century, where acts of chivalry and defiance provided inspiration during the Wars of Independence and where the MacDonald Lords of the Isles struggled with the Crown for power. The visitor centre is fully accessible and there is a photographic guide for those who have mobility issues. Disability buggies are available on request.

OPEN: Open all year, 7 days a week. 1 Apr – 30 Sep: 9.30am – 6.00pm, 1 – 31 Oct: 9.30am – 5pm, 1 Nov – 31 Mar: 9.30am – 4.30pm. ADMISSION: Adult £7.90, Child £4.80, Concessions £6.40.

THE STEAMSHIP SIR WALTER SCOTT LTD

MOUNT STUART

www.lochkatrine.com F: www.facebook.com/visitlochkatrine TROSSACHS PIER, LOCH KATRINE, BY CALLANDER, FK17 8HZ T: +44 (0) 1877 376315/6 E: enquiries@lochkatrine.com T: @seelochkatrine

www.mountstuart.com ISLE OF BUTE, PA20 9LR T: +44 (0) 1700 503877 E: contactus@mountstuart.com

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lassic steamship sailings in spectacular surroundings since 1899, the ‘Sir Walter Scott’ has introduced visitors to the magnificent landscapes of Loch Katrine, at the heart of the Trossachs. Still proudly sailing today, alongside its modern sister ‘Lady of the Lake’, the steamship operates daily sailings to Stronachlachar, as well as one-hour cruises. Sailings depart from Trossachs Pier, where The Brenachoile Café is the ideal place to relax and Katrine Gifts a place to browse and pick up a souvenir after a memorable cruise.

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ne of the world’s great houses, Mount Stuart is surrounded by 300 acres of glorious gardens. Spectacular features include the stunning White Marble Chapel, magnificent Marble Hall, a fine art collection and astounding architectural detail. With something for all the family, this award-winning visitor attraction offers excellent restaurant facilities, gift shop, way-marked walks, picnic areas, adventure play area, contemporary visual arts exhibition and self-catering properties. Group visits welcome all year round. OPEN: Easter to August. Please see website for detailed opening times.

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DALLAS DHU DISTILLERY

www.historic-scotland.gov.uk/places CAERLAVEROCK, DUMFRIES DG1 4RU T: +44 (0) 1387 770244 E: hs.explorer@historic-scotland.gov.uk

www.historic-scotland.gov.uk/places FORRES IV36 2RR T: +44 (0) 1309 676548 E: hs.explorer@historic-scotland.gov.uk

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he epitome of the moated, medieval stronghold, Caerlaverock’s great triangular defences guard the beautiful Solway shore.

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DIRLETON CASTLE

DUFF HOUSE

www.historic-scotland.gov.uk DIRLETON RD, NORTH BERWICK, EAST LOTHIAN EH39 5ER T: +44 (0) 1620 850330 E: hs.explorer@historic-scotland.gov.uk

www.historic-scotland.gov.uk DUFF HOUSE, BANFF AB45 3SX T: +44 (0) 1261 818181 E: hs.explorer@historic-scotland.gov.uk

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ease out the hints of a long and eventful history in these well-preserved ruins of what was once a magnificent fortress.

iscover the whisky-making process in this Victorian distillery, which has seen only limited development since it opened in 1898.

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ne of the finest houses built in Scotland, Duff House is a magnificent Georgian mansion designed by William Adam.

SUMMER ONLY

Scotland

CAERLAVEROCK CASTLE

FORT GEORGE

IONA ABBEY

www.historic-scotland.gov.uk/places ARDERSIER, INVERNESS IV2 7TD T: +44 (0) 1667 460232 E: hs.explorer@historic-scotland.gov.uk

www.historic-scotland.gov.uk/places ISLE OF IONA, ARGYLL PA76 6SQ T: +44 (0) 1681 700512 E: hs.explorer@historic-scotland.gov.uk

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arch into Britain’s mightiest artillery fortress for an unforgettable experience. You can explore an enormous military base protected by almost 1.6km (1 mile) of massive walls.

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JEDBURGH ABBEY

MELROSE ABBEY

www.historic-scotland.gov.uk/places ABBEY BRIDGE END, JEDBURGH, TD8 6JQ T: +44 (0) 1835 863925 E: hs.explorer@historic-scotland.gov.uk

www.historic-scotland.gov.uk/places ABBEY ST, MELROSE TD6 9LG T: +44 (0) 1896 822562 E: hs.explorer@historic-scotland.gov.uk

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he towering ruins of this vast Augustinian abbey which was founded in the 12th century are testament to the power of both royalty and the medieval church.

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his ancient holy place remains a vibrant centre of Christianity. Founded by St Columba in 563, the early monastery on Iona was a powerhouse of Christian learning.

elrose Abbey is a magnificent ruin on a grand scale where you can trace the lives and beliefs of medieval monks in one of Scotland’s largest and richest medieval institutions.

For a key to symbols please see page 135


Wales

STEAM IN WALES TOUR WITH GEOFF’S TRAINS www. geoffs-trains.com VARIOUS LOCATIONS T: +44 (0)1562 632000 E: geoff@geoffs-trains.com

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ales offers stunning scenery, fascinating history and quaint narrow gauge steam railways, so step aboard one of our tours to see more of this beautiful region. The railways meander through deep valleys, shuffle along golden beaches, climb high mountains, amble alongside ancient lakes and gently ease themselves through historic towns. Centenarian locomotives and picture-book trains promise to delight young and old passengers alike. The Geoff’s Trains ‘Steam in Wales’ tour explores this special piece of railway heritage. Starting in the Valleys of south Wales, it ambles through west Wales before visiting the great

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slate producing regions of Snowdonia and north Wales. The tour features 16 different railways, 14 of which use steam and six privately chartered trains, making this a unique visit to a beautiful country. An ideal holiday for photographers and anyone looking for a well-organised trip to Wales that offers something a little different. The culture, history and scenery of Wales will all be experienced in a relaxed and friendly way on this 12-day small group tour, personally hosted by Geoff this September. For more information on this and other tours, visit the Geoff’s Trains website at www. geoffs-trains.com

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Wales BRECON BEACONS www.nationaltrust.org.uk/breconbeacons POWYS, WALES T: +44 (0) 1874 625515 E: brecon@nationaltrust.org.uk

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estled above the southern Welsh valleys, the Brecon Beacons have long been one of Wales’s most cherished breathing spaces. Famed for its undulating valleys and mountainous peaks, the Beacons has one of the most varied landscapes in Britain. Whether its walking, hiking, cycling, fishing or horse riding you’re interested in, the Brecon Beacons truly has it all. Owned and maintained by the National Trust, the central Beacons, Corn Du, Pen y Fan and Cribyn, present a challenge to both the experienced and novice walker alike. In fact, rising 886 metres (2,900ft) above sea level, Pen y Fan is the highest point in southern

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Britain. With many varied footpaths leading up to the peaks, you’ll be sure to find a route to suit you. Alternatively, if you’d prefer to admire the Beacons from a distance, the picturesque market towns of Brecon and Hay-on-Wye are just a stone’s throw away. Offering breathtaking views of the Brecon Beacons and the Black Mountains, they provide the best of town and country for those after a less challenging holiday.

OPEN: All year round. Open access countryside. Please follow footpaths and keep dogs on leads.

For a key to symbols please see page 135


Wales

NATIONAL TRUST CARMARTHENSHIRE

www.nationaltrust.org.uk/dinefwr DINEFWR PARK, LLANDEILO, CARMARTHENSHIRE, SA19 6RT DOLAUCOTHI GOLD MINES, PUMSAINT, CARMARTHENSHIRE, SA19 8US T: +44 (0) 01558 825910 E: Dinefwr@nationaltrust.org.uk

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armarthenshire in south Wales is fondly referred to as ‘The Garden of Wales’, nestled as it is between the Gower and Pembrokeshire coasts and mountainous Brecon Beacons. But the National Trust likes to celebrate the diversity of the whole county. A trip to Carmarthenshire can offer new experiences in some of the most unique and historically significant places in the country. A chance to learn about the people who molded the Wales of today, and spend vital quality time together in the great outdoors – whether above or below ground. Dolaucothi Gold Mines, the only known Roman Gold Mine in the UK, is a chance to discover more about what lies beneath.

Dinefwr. “If you take a handful of the soil of Dinefwr and squeeze it in your hand, the juice that will flow from your hands is the true essence of Wales” – Wynford Vaughan-Thomas. Ragwen Point. This secluded beach was the site where allied forces practised before the Normandy landings. You can still see the bullet holes in these purpose built structures. Paxton’s Tower. Local legend says that this folly was built out of spite. Paxton spent thousands of pounds trying to get elected in 1802 only to be defeated by 45 votes. He built the tower instead of the bridge across the River Tywi that he had promised. OPEN: Dinefwr, Ragwen Point and Paxton’s Tower are open all year. Dinefwr members free, 10am to 5pm. £6 per car. Dolaucothi Gold Mines is open March to October, Free to members and Free underground tours.

DYLAN THOMAS CENTRE www.dylanthomas.com SOMERSET PLACE, SWANSEA, SA1 1RR T: +44 (0) 1792 463980 E: dylanthomas.lit@swansea.gov.uk

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he Dylan Thomas Centre is the definitive starting point for fans and enthusiasts wanting to discover more about the life and work of Swansea’s most famous son. Entry is free to the Centre’s Dylan Thomas exhibition. Visitors can browse unique archive material, rare manuscripts, artwork, photographs, books and original sound recordings. In 2014, the Dylan Thomas Centre is celebrating the centenary of Dylan Thomas’ birth with fantastic events and exhibitions. Every year, in October and November, the Centre hosts the Dylan Thomas Festival. This popular two-week festival

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(27 October to 9 November) attracts high profile poets, writers and cultural figures. In addition, the Centre’s experienced literature and curatorial team can offer a variety of talks and lectures which will suit all tastes and requirements.

OPEN: 10am – 4.30pm seven days a week.

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PHOTO: © NATIONAL TRUST IMAGES: ANDREW BUTLER.

Wales DRAGON TRAILS

POWIS CASTLE AND GARDEN

www.dragontrails.com PARC-Y-GORS, PONTHIRWAUN, CARDIGAN, SA43 2RH, WALES T: +44 (0) 7850 174875 E: richard@dragontrails.com

www.nationaltrust.org.uk/powis-castle WELSHPOOL, POWYS SY21 8RF T: +44 (0) 1938 551944 E: powiscastle@nationaltrust.org.uk

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xplore the spectacular scenery, history and wildlife of the Pembrokeshire Coast, Brecon Beacons or Welsh Borders with Dragon Trails. Daily guided walks with Welsh-speaking guide. Full-board with home-cooked food, log fires, croquet, coracling. Relaxed house-party atmosphere, seven, six or four night breaks. Local history, flora and wildlife a specialty. Singles, couples and groups all welcome.

OPEN: See website for dates of tours from March – October 2014.

LLANCAIACH FAWR MANOR www.llancaiachfawr.co.uk GELLIGAER ROAD, NELSON, TREHARRIS, CF46 6ER, WALES T: +44 (0) 1443 412248 E: llancaiachfawr@caerphilly.gov.uk

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lancaiach Fawr Manor stands proudly, as it has done since c1550, overlooking the Glamorgan uplands. Set within a restored period garden, it provides the perfect opportunity to enjoy the passing of the seasons in a tranquil location where the past and the present collide. This superbly restored gentry manor house is no ordinary heritage attraction; the history here is tangible. The costumed servants of the house live and work in the year 1645 and allow you to share and engage in their world. Fires crackle, candles flicker and the sounds and smells of domestic life give you a

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ncover the magnificent treasures of the medieval Castle and Clive Museum. Remodelled over 400 years; each generation has added to its magnificent collection of paintings, sculpture, furniture and tapestries. The world-famous terraced garden, overhung with clipped yews, shelters rare and tender plants. Laid out under the influence of Italian and French styles, it retains its original lead statues and Orangery. OPEN: Open 364 days (closed 25 Dec). 1 Apr to 30 Sep, gardens 10am to 6pm. Castle and Clive Museum 12.30pm to 4.30pm. Restaurant 10am to 5pm. ADMISSION: Adults £13. Children £6.50. Family £32.50. See website for more.

memorable experience of the past. It takes a moment to attune your ear to the unfamiliar speech that echoes around the manor, but within seconds of arriving you’ll become immersed in the era of the Civil Wars and the cares and concerns of ordinary people living in extraordinary times. In the manor gardens, as much as possible is grown just as it would have been in 1645. The orchard contains rare varieties of apples and plants grown in the Physic garden that would have been used for cures, perfumes and in the household.

OPEN: Tuesday – Sunday and Bank Holiday Mondays. Manor closed 24 December 2014 – 2 January 2015. Reopens 3 January 2015. ADMISSION: Adult: £7.50. Concession/Child: £6. Family (2 adults + 2 children): £22.

For a key to symbols please see page 135


Wales

LLANERCHAERON NATIONAL TRUST

ABERDULAIS TIN WORKS AND WATERFALL

www.nationaltrust.org.uk/llanerchaeron CILIAU AERON, ABERAERON, SY48 8DG T: +44 (0) 1545 570200 E: llanerchaeron@nationaltrust.org.uk

www.nationaltrust.org.uk/aberdulais ABERDULAIS, NR NEATH, SA10 8EU T: +44 (0) 1639 636674 E: aberdulais@nationaltrust.org.uk

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iscover the self-sufficient way of life of a late 18th century Welsh country estate. From the comforts of a family home to the life of a working farm, explore how many generations of the Lewes family and their staff lived and worked in the heart of the unspoiled Aeron Valley.

OPEN: All year round, seven days a week from 10.30am to 5.30pm. The villa is closed over the winter from 1 Nov. Adults: £7.10, children: £3.60. Under 5 free. ON THE ESTATE (GARDENS, VILLA & FARM)

WOODLANDS & PARKLAND ONLY

GOWER COAST ADVENTURES www.gowercoastadventures.co.uk VARIOUS LOCATIONS, GOWER T: +44 (0) 7866 250440 E: info@gowercoastadventures.co.uk

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ower Coast Adventures provide breathtaking, interactive tours of the south Gower Coast, leaving our passengers with unforgettable memories. Guided by professional qualified crew with excellent local knowledge, you will encounter a wealth of marine wildlife,

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rom Elizabethan copper smelting to 21st century hydro-electricity, courtesy of the Victorian tinplate works, Aberdulais’ waterfall has powered industrial innovation for 430 years. Discover the power of water as you explore one of the cradles of the industrial revolution. You can even do it in costume, or follow the tin detectives’ trail. Alternatively take the lift up to the cinema or the upper levels for great views of the falls. Located just off the M4 (J43).

fascinating local history (from prehistoric bone caves to tales of smugglers) and a unique thrill as we skim across the open water. With Gower being the UK’s first designated Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty, the coast affords many chances to stop and take it all in. Whether to talk, take photos, watch birds and seals at play in their natural habitat or just to pause and admire the scenery that inspired Dylan Thomas, who celebrates his centenery this year, in some of his most renowned poems. OPEN: 5 March to 31 October from 9am to 8pm.

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Wales ST DAVIDS CATHEDRAL

www.stdavidscathedral.org.uk THE DEANERY OFFICE, THE PEBBLES, ST DAVIDS, PEMBROKESHIRE SA62 6RD T: +44 (0) 1437 720202 E: info@stdavidscathedral.org.uk

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t Davids Cathedral sits in the Pembrokeshire Coast National Park and is open daily for visitors and pilgrims with no admission charge.

VALE OF RHEIDOL RAILWAY www.rheidolrailway.co.uk PARK AVENUE, ABERYSTWYTH, CEREDIGION, SY23 1PG T: +44 (0) 1970 625 819 E: info@rheidolrailway.co.uk

ABERGLASNEY GARDENS www.aberglasney.org LLANGATHEN, CARMARTHENSHIRE, WALES, SA32 8QH T: +44 (0) 1558 668998 E: info@aberglasney.org

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ravelling on the Vale of Rheidol Railway is the finest way to explore the stunning Rheidol Valley, from Aberystwyth to Devil’s Bridge. Feel the wind in your hair on board one of our Open Carriages or watch the scenery passing by from the comfort of our First Class Observation Saloons. See the countryside change as you travel through fields and meadows, woodland and rugged mountain scenery, as the line twists and turns. Alight at one of our stations and explore the many walks the valley has to offer. Check website for prices and timetable.

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berglasney is one of Wales’s finest gardens, a renowned plantsman’s paradise set around a grade II listed mansion with an Elizabethan cloister garden.

All images are copyright Visit Wales

North Wales coastline

ATTRACTIONS OF SNOWDONIA www.attractionsofsnowdonia.com www.facebook.com/attractionsofsnowdonia SNOWDONIA, NORTH WALES E: info@attractionsofsnowdonia.com Twitter: @GoSnowdonia

Portmeirion Village

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elcome to Snowdonia - the heartland of Welsh language and culture. We’ve got it all, from mountains to coastlines. Set against a backdrop of outstanding natural beauty, come and explore our medieval castles, historic houses and elegant parks and gardens. Visit galleries and museums, learn about myths and legends and go deep underground to discover our mining past. Take a train journey through the mountains or have an action-packed fun day out with the children. For more inspiration go to www.attractionsofsnowdonia.com Snowdonia National Park

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For a key to symbols please see page 135


Northern Ireland

ANTRIM CASTLE GARDENS AND CLOTWORTHY HOUSE www.antrim.gov.uk/antrimcastlegardens RANDALSTOWN ROAD, ANTRIM, BT41 4LH T: +44 (0) 28 9448 1338 E: culture@antrim.gov.uk

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ntrim Castle Gardens is an absolute historic gem waiting to be explored, consisting of over 60 acres of unique heritage landscape dating back to the 17th century. Take a walk into the past as you stroll around the magnificent site, visiting beautiful features such as the Large Parterre, Her Ladyship’s Pleasure Garden, Yew Tree Pond and Long Canals. Few historic gardens in Northern Ireland feature such evolutionary garden design characteristics. At the heart of the gardens is the refurbished visitor complex that includes Clotworthy House. The visitor experience

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includes a range of facilities including the Garden Coffee Shop, the Oriel Gallery, Gift Shop and an engaging garden heritage display detailing the history of the gardens and the Massereene family.

OPEN: Monday, Wednesday and Friday: 9.30am – 5.00pm Tuesday and Thursday: 9.30am – 9.30pm Saturday and Sunday: 10.00am – 5.00pm Please note: Garden Coffee Shop is open daily from 9.00am. ADMISSION: Free admission. Guided tours available on request.

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Northern Ireland DOWN CATHEDRAL

SS NOMADIC BELFAST

www.downcathedral.org ENGLISH STREET, DOWNPATRICK, COUNTY DOWN, BT30 6AB T: +44 (0) 28 4461 4922 E: info@downcathedral.org

www.nomadicbelfast.com NOMADIC BELFAST, HAMILTON DOCK, QUEEN’S ROAD, BELFAST, BT3 9DT T: +44 (0) 289073 7860 E: enquiries@nomadicbelfast.com

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uilt in 1183 as a Benedictine monastery, Down Cathedral is now a cathedral of the Church of Ireland. Prominent and majestic, the cathedral is believed to have the grave of St Patrick in its grounds. There is also wonderful stained glass, a pulpit and organ of highest quality.

OPEN: Monday – Saturday 9.30am – 4:00pm, Sunday 2:00pm – 4:00pm ADMISSIONS: Donations. Guided tours by arrangement.

Nomadic was built in 1911 as a tender for the Olympic Class Liners including RMS Titanic. As part of your interactive tour, you will be transported back in time, travelling through the first and second-class lounges. Led by one of our qualified guides, you will receive unique insight into the amazing life of Nomadic before being let loose on the decks to explore at your own pace. OPEN: April-Sept 10am to 6pm (Mon to Sun), with last admission at 5pm. Oct to March, 10am to 5pm (Tues to Sun), with last admission at 4pm. Adults: £8.50/£6.50, children: £5/£4, concessions £6.50/£5.50. Discounts also available.

GUIDE DOG ONLY

CRUMLIN ROAD GAOL www.crumlinroadgaol.com 53-55 CRUMLIN ROAD, BELFAST, CO. ANTRIM, BT14 6ST T: +44 (0) 28 9074 1500 E: info@crumlinroadgaol.com

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n 31 March 1996 Crumlin Road Gaol slammed shut its doors for what many thought would be the final time, but on the 19 November 2012 the chains fell off and HMP Belfast was reborn as a major visitor attraction and conference centre. Now you can explore over 150 years of history at Belfast’s infamous prison. Crumlin Road Gaol has established itself as a unique and multi-functional venue in a short space of time and is now a ‘must do’ for any traveller to Belfast. It is a unique and atmospheric setting for any conferencing or banqueting event. Today, you can

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take a guided tour of the prison and hear about the history of the site from when women and children were held within its walls through to the political segregation of Republican and Loyalist prisoners and learn about why the decision was taken to close the prison. You will visit the underground tunnel that used to connect the gaol to the Crumlin Road Courthouse, view all of the wings from the circle and, of course, pay a visit to the Condemned Man’s Cell before seeing the Execution Cell where the majority of the 17 men were hanged. OPEN: All year round seven days a week, 10am to 4.30pm. ADMISSION: Adults: £8.50, concessions: £7, family: £25, children: £6.50 (under 5s free.) Group rate (15+) available on request. GUIDE DOGS ONLY

For a key to symbols please see page 135


Tailor made holidays - just for you

Royal Scotsman Highland Journey Step back in time on a luxurious holiday with the Royal Scotsman into the wild, rugged landscapes of the Highlands. Enjoy faultless service, gourmet dining and some fascinating excursions off the train during your breathtakingly scenic journey.

London to Edinburgh and York Discover two historic cities on this 5 night holiday from London. Travel up the east coast to Scottish capital Edinburgh before returning via the historic city of York, founded by Romans, settled by the Vikings and conquered by Norman invaders in 1066.

Make Tracks with Railbookers Railbookers is an independent travel company, specialising in tailor made holidays by rail throughout the UK and beyond. We can help put together the ideal holiday to suit you, whether you are looking for a short city break in London, a tour of the UK’s finest stately homes or a dream journey aboard the Royal Scotsman. With offices in London, Sydney, Los Angeles and Auckland, we can tailor make your perfect holiday in Great Britain.

Historical Britain From a Roman capital city to a fashionable Georgian spa resort and a Viking stronghold, take a scenic rail journey through the history of Great Britain with visits to London, Bath, Cardiff, Chester, Manchester and York.

To speak to an experienced consultant please call or visit our website.

London 020 3327 3550 Sydney 1300 550 481 Los Angeles 1-888-753-5160 Auckland 0800 000 554

www.railbookers.com


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