Britain July/August 2023 - Sample

Cornwall is always one of our favourite places to be in the summer months –who could resist the combination of quaint harbour towns, a spectacular coastline and heavenly cream teas? is issue, we delve into the shady history of this sunny spot, with a trip back in time to Cornwall’s smuggling heyday (On the smugglers’ trail, p14).

Our summer issue gathers pace with a sprint through the history of sports with a British imprint; anyone for tennis? (League of their own, p39). And if you’re dreaming of a getaway this summer, we’ve cherry-picked some of Scotland’s most special places to stay, rain or shine (Scottish escapes, p53).

Elsewhere this issue, we tell the story of the iconic Flying Scotsman, which embarked on its rst journey a century ago (A steamy romance, p32), and reveal how you can recreate the golden age of steam in the present day. And if you’ve ever wandered the streets of London and wondered as to the origins of its curious place names, we uncover the meaning behind some of the quirkiest examples on page 23 (What’s in a name?).

Enjoy the issue!

VOLUME 91 ISSUE 4

FEATURES

14 ON THE SMUGGLERS' TRAIL

Steeped in smuggling lore, Cornwall's hidden coves and tucked-away villages made ideal hideouts for the thriving trade. We go back in time and visit these historic havens

23

WHAT'S IN A NAME?

London is full of intriguing and sometimes puzzling street names. We navigate the history of some of the more unusual examples

32

A STEAMY ROMANCE

As the Flying Scotsman celebrates its centenary, we take a look back at the golden age of steam

39 LEAGUE OF THEIR OWN

Brits are known for being 'good sports' – typically while valiantly losing – and many games that are now enjoyed the world over have a British imprint

46

A HOUSE THROUGH TIME

Robert Sackville-West, 13th generation of his family to live at the famous 'calendar house' Knole in Kent,

Prestonfield Hotel, Edinburgh

53 SCOTTISH ESCAPES

Whether you want to retreat to a cosy inn or play golf on a country estate, here's our pick of the best places to stay in Scotland

62 CALM DOWNS

West Sussex's rolling hills, dotted with castles, gardens and stately homes, soothe the soul

71 ROYAL TUNBRIDGE WELLS

This pretty Georgian spa town in the Kent countryside, whose natural spring was discovered four centuries ago, has the royal seal of approval

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USA and Canada: NPS Media Group, 2 Enterprise Drive, Suite 420, Shelton, CT 06484. UK and Rest of World: Seymour, 2 East Poultry Avenue, London EC1A 9PT, UK Tel: +44 (0)20 7429 4000 BRITAIN (ISSN 1757-9732) (USPS 004-335) is published bi-monthly by The Chelsea Magazine Company, Jubilee House, 2 Jubilee Place, London SW3 3TQ, UK Distributed in the US by NPS Media Group, 2 Enterprise Drive, Suite 420, Shelton, CT 06484. Periodicals postage paid at Shelton, CT and other mailing offices.

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YOUR LETTERS

Write to us with your thoughts on the magazine and memories of Britain

STAR LETTER STEPPING UP

The St. Paul’s & the Polymath article [Vol 91 Issue 2] reminded me of my second visit to London in 2019. I didn’t get to see St. Paul’s during my rst visit and I went on my very rst full day back. I had to see the inside of the magni cent church Diana was married in. I wasn’t ready for the beauty of the church and the monuments, speci cally the Duke of Wellington’s. I made a point to visit the tomb of the architect Christopher Wren which I found was a sad and insigni cant place that was very obscure and hard to nd for a man who left such a great legacy. Lastly, I took on the challenge of climbing the 500-something steps to the top of the dome for the magni cent view of London. I almost quit halfway through but it was totally worth it!

Sylvia Schmidt, by email

Our star letter wins a copy of Walking the Bones of Britain: A 3 Billion Year Journey from the Outer Hebrides to the Thames Estuary, a new book by Christopher Somerville telling the story of how the land beneath our feet shapes our past, present and future (£25, Transworld; www.penguin.co.uk).

FAMILY DISCOVERIES

I enjoyed reading A day with the Duchess about Emma Manners, the Duchess of Rutland [Volume 91 Issue 1]. As I live in Brisbane, Australia it is not possible to visit Belvoir Castle in the foreseeable future. However I did buy her book in audio.

While Her Grace details her husband’s ancestors, I was surprised we had the same surname in our genealogy. I too am descended from the Vernon Family though I have not traced our Vernons back to Haddon Hall. My 2 times Great Grandmother, Jane Vernon, born 24 November 1840, arrived by the ship Devon in Australia on 5 February 1879 and died 11 September 1931. Listening to The

WREN IN THE USA

We love your magazine. There’s always something new to learn about our favorite destination. However, in the May issue [Vol 91 Issue 2] you did yourself proud. The Christopher Wren article was outstanding! Mr. Wren has many fans in the States as well. Primarily in Virginia and especially alumni of the College of William and Mary. Our second oldest college was chartered in 1693 by…you guessed it! We take special pride in our main building which was built according to plans by Mr. Wren.

Carolyn Bowen, Los Gatos, California

HOW MANY HENRYS?

Thanks to the eagleeyed readers who spotted the errors in our ‘kings and queens’ quiz [Vol 91 Issue 1]. We aim to do better in this issue’s quiz on p.82!

Question 5 asks how many kings of England have been named Henry and the answer is given as 8. However, in 1170 King Henry II, in an attempt to curtail any succession problems had his son Henry crowned as king but refused to give him any power. Young King Henry would die in 1183, six years before his father Henry II died in 1189 so England has actually had 9 crowned kings named Henry. Robert Ward, Kentucky, USA

Accidental Duchess has whet my curiosity for family history.

Janine McDonnell, Queensland, Australia

FOLLOW US! Twitter: @BritainMagazine Instagram: @britain_magazine Facebook: www.facebook.com/BritainMagazine Pinterest: www.pinterest.com/britainmagazine

I am afraid I must disagree with the answer to question 15. Henry Fitzroy (Duke of Richmond) survived to the age of 17, so the answer [to the question ‘How many of Henry VIII’s children survived infancy?’] should be 4, not 3. If illegitimate children are to be excluded, then either Mary (parents’ marriage purportedly annulled) or Elizabeth (arguably offspring of bigamous marriage) should also be excluded!

Barry Brackin, Brisbane, Australia

THE BULLETIN

News from the Tower of London, the King’s green scheme, and a letter from Jane Austen

A new look for the Beefeaters

For the first time in seventy years, the Tower of London’s Yeoman Warders, or ‘Beefeaters’ as they’re commonly known due to the medieval guards’ meat-eating habits, now have brand-new uniforms, bearing the cypher of King Charles III.

The first Yeoman Warders were recruited to guard the Tower of London in 1485, and have worn every sovereign’s initials embroidered on their uniform since the reign of Elizabeth I. There are now 35 Beefeaters living and working at the Tower, who have all previously served at least 22 years in the Armed Forces. Wearing their colourful uniforms, the Yeoman Warders guard the Tower, conduct tours of the thousand-year-old royal palace and take part in ceremonial

duties, including guarding the monarch himself on occasion. The new uniforms, emblazoned with ‘CIIIR’, meaning Charles III Rex, are part of a series of changes that Historic Royal Palaces are making to mark the dawning of the Carolean era. These also include the renaming of the King’s House (formerly known as the Queen’s House) and adding the new royal cypher at the entrance to the Jewel House and on sentry boxes across the site. In memory of Her Late Majesty Queen Elizabeth II, a selection of the previous uniforms featuring the ‘EIIR’ cypher will be kept in the archives and preserved for generations to come: a cherished piece of history. www.hrp.org.uk

PHOTO: © HISTORIC ROYAL PALACES

With Love, Jane

Austen fans will delight at the new exhibition at Jane Austen’s House Museum, which features a newly acquired letter from Jane to her sister, Cassandra. My Dear Cassandra (until 29 October) takes a closer look at the relationship between the two sisters and is part of a year-long celebration of Cassandra, who was born 250 years ago this year. The letter, dated 1798, is full of family gossip, related with Jane’s famous dry humour and wit. The exhibition is free with a ticket to the museum in Chawton, Hampshire, where Jane lived with her mother and sister for the last eight years of her life.

www.janeaustens.house

opening

A national treasure returns

Since 2020 a major player in London’s gallery scene has been missing from action due to a huge refurbishment project. But on 22 June the National Portrait Gallery will open its doors to the public once again, and we can’t wait to see inside. The project has been the most extensive redevelopment in the Victorian building’s history. Visitors will now be able to step through a spectacular new entrance on the gallery’s north facade, just off Trafalgar Square, to explore the extensive collection of portraits – the largest and most diverse in the world – displayed in brand-new, beautifully refurbished galleries and a new wing. The gallery houses pictures of historically important British people, chosen for the significance of the sitter rather than the artist. Portraits range from Henry VIII and Shakespeare to today’s stars of stage and screen and the present-day royal family, including Catherine, Princess of Wales, who is also the gallery’s patron. www.npg.org.uk

places to stay

Curated escapes

Discerning travellers have come to rely on the travel membership site Kip Hideaways for their offering of special places to stay in some of Britain’s most scenic locations. The curated collection of ‘small places with soul’ is now being expanded to encompass some bigger hideaways, sleeping from 8 to 16 guests. Kip with Friends includes gems such as the South Hams Escape (pictured) – a luxuriously converted barn nestled in the glorious Devon countryside, with rambling gardens and a swimming pool – as well as a Highland lodge, a Norfolk flint cottage, a Cornish farmhouse, and much more besides.

www.kiphideaways.com

gardens

Meadows for His Majesty

The King’s lifelong passion for sustainability, the environment and the preservation of heritage is well-known the world over. To pay tribute to this, and in honour of his Coronation, English Heritage have announced a plan to enhance and create 100 meadows over the next ten years. From Launceston Castle in Cornwall (pictured) to the Jewel Tower in the heart of Westminster, flower-rich grasslands will be established across heritage sites in England, encouraging wildflowers and wildlife to flourish, and creating a natural and beautiful legacy for future generations to enjoy. www.english-heritage.org.uk

This soup is nicknamed ‘London Particular’ after the thick fogs in Victorian times, known as ‘pea soupers’

Pea and ham soup

The British Cookbook: authentic home cooking recipes from England, Wales, Scotland and Northern Ireland (£39.95; Smith and Baxter) takes readers on a mouthwatering culinary tour across the British Isles. Author and food historian Ben Mervis has put together 550 authentic recipes in this half cookbook, half cultural history, covering well-known classics alongside surprising regional recipes.

SERVES 4

10 minutes, plus 8–12 hours soaking

Cook time: 2 hours

INGREDIENTS

500g/1lb 2oz (2 cups) yellow split peas

50g/2oz (3 tablespoons) butter

1 large onion, chopped

1 large carrot, diced

1 ham hock

Worcestershire sauce (optional)

salt and pepper

crusty bread, to serve

METHOD

Put the yellow split peas into a large bowl, cover with water and leave to soak overnight. The next day, drain the split peas and set aside. Melt the butter in a large saucepan or stockpot over a medium heat, add the onion and fry for 10–15 minutes until softened. Add the carrot and cook for another 10 minutes, then add the yellow split peas and ham. Pour in enough water to cover, about 2.5 litres/85 fl oz (10 cups) and slowly bring to a simmer over a low-medium heat. Cook for 2 hours, skimming off any scum that rises to the top with a slotted spoon until the ham is soft and can be pulled from the bone easily. Remove the ham from the pan using a slotted spoon, put it onto a chopping (cutting) board and leave to cool a little. When it has cooled enough to handle, strip it of its meat and return the meat to the pan. Season to taste with salt, pepper and Worcestershire sauce. Serve in bowls with crusty bread.

books

south-west coast path, reflecting on the landscapes and the communities they encounter along the way.

Landlines by Raynor Winn (10.99, Penguin). The author documents her and her husband’s walk from northwest Scotland down the

Call of the Kingfisher: Bright Sights and Birdsong in a Year by the River by Nick Penny (£9.99, Bradt). Wildlife composer Nick Penny chronicles a year spent recording the wildlife near his home in rural Northamptonshire, reminding readers of the importance of connecting with nature.

The Granite Kingdom: A Cornish Journey by Tim Hannigan (£27.99, Head of Zeus). On this walking odyssey across Britain’s westernmost region, the author juxtaposes the history, myth and folklore of Cornwall with the reality of its landscapes and people.

CORNWALL

BRITAIN

Steeped in smuggling lore, Cornwall’s hidden coves and tucked-away villages made ideal hideouts for the thriving trade. Visit these historic havens and take a trip back in time

WORDS ELIZABETH DALE