Discover Britain SAMPLE ISSUE April May 2015

DISCOVER BRITAIN SPECIAL: WHAT WAS MAGNA CARTA AND WHY DOES IT MATTER?

APRIL/MAY 2015 ISSUE 185

Coastal beauty spots that will be ours to enjoy forever

discoverbritainmag.co.uk

35 fun days out in the spring sunshine

The romance of Shakespeare country

The peaceful island paradise with far more puffins than people Castle, lighthouse, fortress – holiday homes with a difference

Channel Islands

The atmospheric legacy of wartime occupation

£4.50

PLUS David Livingstone’s adventures; Unravelling Shipping Forecasts; Dylan Thomas’ birthplace

TEMPLE CHURCH LONDON MAGNA CARTA EXHIBITION NOW OPEN

The Temple, London headquarters of the Knight Templar from the 1160s played a vital role in the months leading up to Runnymede and still stands here to be seen today. A special Magna Carta exhibition in the Round Church offers a wonderful opportunity to visit the Church and look into the faces of William Marshall and his liege King John in the very place where they would have debated and agreed on the clauses of Magna Carta. For the first time ever you can now also climb up to visit the triforium and look down on the Round as scores of Knights Templar would have done before you.

Join us Mon, Tue, Thu, Fri from 10am – 4pm and Wed at 1.15pm for term time organ recitals Sunday services open to all | Gardens open weekdays 12-2pm Special event: Saturday 19 and Sunday 20 September: Open House London - Revealing Magna Carta at Temple A chance to get inside the beautiful surroundings of Temple: architectural tours, musical performances and family-friendly entertainment will combine to make a great day out for all.

TEMPLE CHURCH, EC4Y 7DE NEAREST UNDERGROUND: BLACKFRIARS, TEMPLE OR CHANCERY LANE FULL EVENTS LIST AT: WWW.TEMPLECHURCH.COM | WWW.MAGNACARTA800TH.COM/EVENTS

A P R I L / M AY 2 015

Contents 26

78

86 52

25

68

26 FAIR ISLE

James Lowen takes notes on the very small island of Fair Isle, off the Scottish coast, and finds a community well adapted to their isolated environment

68 CHANNEL ISLANDS AT WAR

Seventy years after their liberation from Nazi occupation, David Taylor visits the islands to learn about their wartime history

FEATURES

54

52

NEPTUNE COAST

On the 50th anniversary of the National Trust’s ambitious campaign to preserve Britain’s coast, Jack Watkins counts the many miles saved by the charity

THE SHIPPING FORECAST

Andrew White demystifies the logic behind this very British radio broadcast which continues to help seafarers

36

62

LANDMARK TRUST

MAGNA CARTA

It’s 800 years since the signing of ‘The Great Charter’ at Runnymede so what is the significance of this historic event, then and now?

Seeking inspiration for your summer travels? Look no further than the Landmark Trust’s range of historic (and often romantic, idyllic and bijou) holiday lets

discoverbritainmag.com APRIL/MAY 2015 | 3

A P R I L / M AY 2 015

78

W IN A LUXURY BR EA

DAYS OUT

REGULARS

HOME arts venue in Manchester, National Videogame Arcade, and Pennine Way anniversary

86 WHY

WARWICKSHIRE?

Home to Shakespeare, and the sport of rugby, Warwickshire’s attributes are many and varied

88 ESSENTIAL

EXPERIENCES

17

REVIEWS

The latest books and DVDs on Britain

25

88

THE INTERN

Helen Ochyra joins the curator at Dylan Thomas Birthplace in Swansea

WARWICKSHIRE Explore the ramparts, grand interiors and gardens of Warwick Castle

Our selection of things to see and do, from Shakespeare’s Stratford to Kenilworth Castle

106

PLACES TO STAY

Tour the towns and cities connected to Magna Carta, and stay awhile

105

114

COMPETITION

GREAT BRITISH ADVENTURERS

Win a luxury two-night break for two at The Arden Hotel in Stratford-upon-Avon

19

IN DEVON K SEE PAGE 15

114

106

Remembering the great Scot, David Livingstone

DEPARTMENTS

06 EDITOR’S NOTE 08 11 NEWS 19 WHAT’S ON 113 LETTERS

80 4 | APRIL/MAY 2015 discoverbritainmag.com

CROSSWORD

NIGEL FRANCIS / ROBERT HARDING; DAVID SPEIGHT/ALAMY; VICTORIA & ALBERT MUSEUM; THINKSTOCK/GETTY IMAGES

ESCAPE

Contentss

Editor’s Note

Welcome

OUR ISLAND NATION OWES MUCH TO THE WATER THAT SURROUNDS

us and our rich seafaring heritage. For the inhabitants of Fair Isle, the ocean has been both a provider and an isolator, as you can read in our interview with seven of only 50 people who live happily in their wind-swept demi-paradise. However, for the Channel Islanders, at the other end of the country, the sea was the barrier to receiving proper protection from invasion during the Second World War. We look at the legacy of those days, which is evident in the occupying German Army buildings still visible all over the islands, which serve as a sober reminder of the hardship that conflict brought so close to mainland Britain. To complete our maritime theme, we look at the National Trust’s ongoing Neptune Coastline Campaign which, for 50 years, has been seeking to preserve our most beautiful coastline for our enjoyment forever.

The iconic White Cliffs of Dover and the beautiful Gower Peninsula are just two of the 742 miles of coast now belonging to the Trust.

In this issue we are also celebrating the 800th anniversary of the sealing of Magna Carta, that has had such an influence on the way countries are governed around the world. Exactly what it is and how it came about is what we explore. And we’re raising a glass to the 50 years that the Landmark Trust has been saving small gems of historic buildings that might otherwise have dropped off the radar.

Discover Britain, Archant House, Oriel Road, Cheltenham, Gloucestershire GL50 1BB Tel: 01242 211 077, Fax: 01242 216 094 editorial@discoverbritainmag.com www.discoverbritainmag.com EDITORIAL Editor Sheena Harvey Deputy Editor Vicky Sartain Staff Writer Angharad Moran Art Editor Jeremy Bird ADVERTISING Account Manager Daniel Martin Tel: 01242 264 781; daniel.martin@archant.co.uk Account Manager Amy Stokes Tel: 01242 264 785; amy.stokes@archant.co.uk MANAGEMENT Specialist Managing Director Peter Timperley peter.timperley@archant.co.uk Lifestyle Managing Director Will Hattam will.hattam@archant.co.uk PRODUCTION Reprographics Manager Neil Puttnam Printing William Gibbons Ltd CUSTOMER SERVICES Enquiries and orders: Tel: 01242 216 002 Sylvie Wheatley; sylvie.wheatley@archant.co.uk Estelle Iles; estelle.iles@archant.co.uk SUBSCRIPTIONS UK Discover Britain, Unit 1, Tower House, Lathkill Street, Market Harborough LE16 9EF Tel: 01858 438 840, Fax: 01858 434 958 discoverbritain@subscription.co.uk www.subscriptionsave.co.uk Subscription rates: Subscribe for one year for £27 (six issues) or for two years (12 issues) for £54. For the latest offer see page 16 BACK ISSUES £4.50. Tel: 01858 468 811 Printed in England ISSN 0950-5245 © Archant Specialist 2015 News distribution: Seymour, 86 Newman Street, London W1T 3EX. Tel: 020 7396 8000

Discover Britain is available on tape for people with impaired vision. For details, contact the Talking Newspaper Association of the UK, National Recording Centre, Heathfield, East Sussex TN21 8DB. Tel: 01435 866 102, info@tnauk.org.uk

SHEENA HARVEY Editor

go down to the seas again, for the call of “theI must running tide; Is a wild call and a clear call that may not be denied; And all I ask is a windy day with the white clouds flying; And the flung spray and the blown spume, and the sea-gulls crying.

JOHN MASEFIELD (1878-1967)

6 | APRIL/MAY 2015 discoverbritainmag.com

”

Great magazines direct to your door. Get £1 off the next issue.

Go to www.buyamag.co.uk/db and use code DB664Y On the cover:

Plemont Bay on Jersey Photo by Alan Lagadu/ GettyImages

ALAN HARVEY

Sea Fever

LUNDY

THE UNIQUE ISLAND EXPERIENCE

It is difficult to pin down why Lundy Island has such an effect on people...

It is true that Lundy is different from any other island and that it is in a wonderful part of the country, situated off the coast of North Devon.

Why not take a short break and stay in one of Lundy’s lovingly restored buildings.

These offer visitors an extraordinary range in which to stay, from a thirteenth century castle, a late Georgian gentleman’s residence, Lighthouse, Admiralty Lookout and Fisherman’s Chalet. In all twenty three individual properties are available. Summer is a gorgeous time to visit the island of Lundy.

We have now made it easier to do so by having shorter summer breaks, as well as weekly stays.

The Voyage to Lundy – Is on the Islands own passenger and supply vessel, MS Oldenburg, carrying both day and staying visitors from Bideford or Ilfracombe.

MS Oldenburg is a handsome and graceful vessel, fast and comfortable.

The ship sails three times a week during the summer season.

For further information & bookings Tel: 01271 863636 or visit www.lundyisland.co.uk

Mail

Your words

Let us know your thoughts on the magazine. The writer of each letter published receives a prize GENERATION GAP

Bamburgh Castle (Mighty fortress of the North, February/March 2015) is my favourite castle. Sitting majestically, almost magically, on the Northumbrian coast, it stands defiant. One of my earliest holiday memories is of walking along Bamburgh beach with my mum and dad. I remember looking at the castle and wanting to live there. I have been so many times to Bamburgh that if I close my eyes I can still see the castle silhouetted against a clear sky. The view from the B1342 skirting Budle Bay is magnificent. It still takes my breath away.

DAVE HARCOMBE, DONCASTER

MARILYN HENNINGER, PENNSYLVANIA, USA

SIGN OF THE TIMES I enjoyed the historic graffiti article (Scratching the surface, February/March 2015). On a recent trip to Bamburgh Castle [featured in the same issue] I noticed some old graffiti carved into the stonework, left by mystery writers.

It made me wonder about the life of the person who created it, the times they were living in and the impulse that made them scrawl their name.

J GREENAWAY, BY EMAIL

From the editor: Email us with your thoughts at editorial@discoverbritain mag.com Follow us on Facebook at www.facebook.com/discoverbritainmag and Twitter at @We_love_Britain

LEGENDARY LANDMARK I enjoyed seeing the two beautiful photos, one on the cover, of ‘White Nancy’ in Cheshire (Escape to Cheshire, February/March 2015). I lived the first 20 years of my life with a clear view of the landmark. In the war years it was painted black as it was feared that enemy aircraft might use it to set their sights to bomb nearby Manchester. It was lovely to see the repainting of it after the war, but I write about the local legend of its origin, which is far more romantic than your version.

As a boy I was told that a local Bollington girl loved a sailor who was about to set sail from Liverpool. She had the landmark built so that, when he reached Liverpool to depart for distant shores, he could look back across the Cheshire plain from his ship and be reminded of his love-lorn friend. Accordingly I have stood on Kerridge several times to see if Liverpool is visible. Sadly I never could persuade myself that I saw any buildings or ships of the port, but I still hope the legend is true.

IAN WAINWRIGHT, BY EMAIL

Email: Get in touch at: editorial@discoverbritainmag.com Write: Please write to Letters to the Editor, Discover Britain, Archant House, Oriel Road, Cheltenham, Gloucestershire GL50 1BB. We welcome your letters, but reserve the right to edit them. Please include a daytime telephone number and, if emailing, a postal address (this will not be published).

8 | APRIL/MAY 2015 discoverbritainmag.com

GETTY IMAGES; CLAIRE SAUL

KING AMONG CASTLES

I first discovered Britain in 1988 and was captivated by the castles and historic sites. In Romance of the Thames, December/ January 2015 it says, ‘Henry II, son of William the Conqueror, is buried in the ruins of Reading Abbey’, but it was actually Henry II’s grandfather, Henry I, who is the son of William the Conqueror, who was buried at Reading Abbey.

Thanks for my Britain fix!

News April/May The latest news, tours, discoveries and places to visit DISCOVER MORE ON OUR WEBSITE DISCOVERBRITAINMAG.COM

NEW ATTRACTION

Last but not least Work begins on new attraction at last home of William Shakespeare

CONSERVATION

Under starter’s orders

Home of first British Grand Prix restores historic circuit in £7m project Brooklands Museum in Surrey is set to start work on its Brooklands Aircraft Factory & Race Track Revival Project. The project will involve restoring the ‘finishing straight’ of the Brooklands race track, the world’s first purpose-built motor-racing circuit; transforming the museum’s Grade II-listed Second World War Wellington Hangar into The Brooklands Aircraft Factory and building a new annexe (the Flight Shed) to house more of the museum’s outstanding collection of historic aircraft.

Work is due to start in the next couple of months. www.brooklandsmuseum.com

New Place in Stratford-uponAvon, the site of William Shakespeare’s last home, will be re-imagined to create a visitor attraction where it is possible to discover more about the famous playwright at the height of his success.

The work is scheduled to be completed in time to open to the public for the 400th anniversary of Shakespeare’s death on 23 April 2016.

Once it opens, visitors will be able to walk in Shakespeare’s footsteps at the site of his former family home. Landscape treatment will echo the original house, giving an impression of its scale and its relationship to the surrounding buildings. A deep, illuminated pool will mark the heart of the site where the family’s living quarters once stood, surrounded by pathways engraved with a selection from the bard’s plays. www.shakespeare.org.uk Turn to page 85 for our county guide to Warwickshire.

HERITAGE CRIME

ROMAN RUIN English Heritage, National Trust and Northumberland National Park Authority have all raised concerns following the recent discovery of damage from illegal metal detecting at the Hadrian’s Wall World Heritage Site. Recent months have seen the appearance of a series of unlawful excavations at Steel Rigg and Peel Crags, which are scheduled Ancient Monuments where it is illegal to use metal detectors without authorisation. www.visithadrianswall.co.uk

discoverbritainmag.com APRIL/MAY 2015 | 11

News MUSEUM

Out with the old, in with the blue A 25.2m Blue Whale skeleton will be part of a complete re-display at London’s Natural History Museum For the past 35 years, visitors to the Natural History Museum’s Hintze Hall have been greeted by a cast of a Diplodocus skeleton affectionately known as ‘Dippy’. However, this iconic dinosaur cast is set to be replaced by the vast skeleton of a Blue Whale from summer 2017.

While planning the whale’s move from its current home in the Mammals Gallery, the museum is exploring how the Diplodocus cast can be enjoyed by an even wider audience in the long term.

This marks the beginning of a decade of transformation for the museum that will see it change how it creates and shares its scientific research and how the collection is displayed. www.nhm.ac.uk

In brief Storm the castle A £6m project sees a new bridge installed at Harlech Castle allowing visitors to enter the site through the original historic entrance for the first time in over 600 years.

Ken Skates, deputy minister for culture, sport and tourism, says: “The key purpose of this project has been to deliver the Welsh Government’s vision of presenting the castle and its history in a way that does justice to its World Heritage Site status.” www.cadw.wales.gov.uk

Homeward bound The Skeleton of a Stone Age woman discovered in Llandudno in North Wales over 100 years ago is to go on permanent display in Llandudno Museum for the first time since its discovery. Known as ‘Blodwen’, the Neolithic woman’s skeleton was discovered by a Lancashire engineer in 1891 who donated the skeleton to the Bacup Natural History Society museum in Lancashire where it remained until now. www.llandudnomuseum.co.uk

Rise and fall Marine research expeditions carried out by Hebridean Whale and Dolphin Trust show Harbour Porpoise sightings off Scotland’s west coast increased by 25 per cent in 2014 compared to the previous year, while sightings of Basking Sharks unexpectedly fell by 33 per cent. Possible explanations for the fall in Basking Shark numbers include a shift in the distribution of plankton on which the sharks feed.

Findings from the study will now be used to assist in recommendations to help protect the species.

ART

MICHELANGELO MYSTERY

Experts believe they have discovered the only surviving Michelangelo bronzes in the world A team of international experts led by the University of Cambridge and the Fitzwilliam Museum has gathered compelling evidence to suggest that a pair of metre-high bronze masterpieces, which have spent over a century in relative obscurity, are early works by Michelangelo.

It was thought that there were no surviving Michelangelo bronzes, but a drawing by one of his apprentices has linked the works to the great artist. The pieces will now be on display at the Fitzwilliam Museum until 9 August 2015. www.fitzmuseum.cam.ac.uk 12 | APRIL/MAY 2015 discoverbritainmag.com

RESTORATION

Past and present Cheshire industrial heritage site to benefit from new project Quarry Bank Mill is the most complete surviving example of a designed Industrial Revolution community on the fringe of Manchester, and recent funding will now help to further enhance the site’s visitor experience.

The new project aims to bring the whole story of Quarry Bank back to life, sharing more of this special community, which includes the mill, a farm, a village and the homes and workplaces of the owner, mill manager, workers and apprentices. www.nationaltrust.org.uk

MUSEUM

Angel delight V&A acquires bronze angels made for Cardinal Wolsey’s tomb The four ‘Wolsey Angels’, designed for the tomb of Henry VIII’s chief advisor, Cardinal Thomas Wolsey, have been reunited for the first time since 1988 by London’s V&A museum. The bronze angel statues have been acquired from private collectors by the museum and will go on display after conservation treatment.

Martin Roth, V&A director, says: “The Wolsey Angels are a vital part of our national history and artistic heritage. We are very grateful to everyone who contributed to our fundraising appeal to ensure these outstanding sculptures are reunited and preserved at the V&A for future generations.” www.vam.ac.uk

ACCOMMODATION

QUEEN’S RETREAT Exclusive area of Osborne House on the Isle of Wight opens as a holiday cottage Two luxury cottages have been developed within ‘Sovereign’s Gate’ at Osborne House, the former Isle of Wight family retreat of Queen Victoria, now under the care of English Heritage.

Sovereign’s Gate is a ceremonial entrance to the royal retreat once reserved exclusively for Queen Victoria and her family as well as lords, ladies and heads of state. Holidaymakers can now book a three, four or seven-night stay at No 1 and No 2 Sovereign’s Gate, with exclusive use of Queen Victoria’s private beach and gardens, as well as free entry to other English Heritage sites on the Isle of Wight.

Osborne House was commissioned in the 1840s by Prince Albert as a seaside retreat for Queen Victoria and their children. Sovereign’s Gate was designed to provide the estate with an entrance worthy of the status of its guests, including Emperor Napoleon III, Tsar Nicholas and the royal family itself.

The two self-catering cottages sleep up to four people each and retain impressive original features such as high ceilings, fireplaces and sash windows.

They have been decorated with a stylish neutral décor, and fitted with contemporary kitchens and bathrooms. www.english-heritage.org.uk

discoverbritainmag.com APRIL/MAY 2015 | 13

News CONSERVATION

Full steam ahead Over 30 years after the SS Daniel Adamson was taken out of service and 11 years since she was saved from the scrapyard by local campaigners, the historic vessel is now to be restored to full working order. This means people will have a chance to ride on the historic steam ship as part of a programme of cruises on the Mersey, Weaver and Manchester Ship Canal.

Constructed in 1903, the vessel is currently moored in Liverpool’s Albert Docks and will now be towed to a dry dock to undergo restoration work before entering back into service in spring 2016. When not in use, she will be moored outside the area’s waterside museums to help visitors explore the region’s important industrial and maritime history. www.danieladamson.co.uk

WILDLIFE

CENTRE OF EXCELLENCE Wildlife Trust set to open discovery centre at Druridge Bay The Dynamic Druridge project has been launched by the Northumberland Wildlife Trust and will see the creation of a new and innovative Wildlife Discovery Centre at the Trust’s Hauxley reserve on Druridge Bay. Built to be sensitive to its surrounding landscape, the centre will be an eco-build with the potential to be the greenest building in the north-east. It will enable the wildlife charity to host an exciting programme of recreational, educational and volunteering activities designed to re-connect people with nature and the wider landscape.

The new building will be a unique coastal wildlife-watching hub for the North East and will replace the building destroyed in an arson attack in 2010. It is scheduled to open in 2016. www.facebook.com/HauxleyNatureReserve

14 | APRIL/MAY 2015 discoverbritainmag.com

NEW ATTRACTION

Access all areas Cardigan Castle will be opening its door to the public this April After an extensive restoration project which began in 2011, the 900-year-old site of Cardigan Castle in Wales will now be opening as a heritage attraction and will also include luxury accommodation and a bar and restaurant. The attraction will also provide the area with a new wedding and events venue.

The redevelopment of the Grade I-listed building has included the recreation of the paths and lawns of the Regency gardens, fitting of a floor-to-ceiling glass restaurant with panoramic views over the River Teifi, and the restoration of the whalebone arch – a ‘must have’ feature for early 19th-century gardens.

It is now hoped the Castle will become one of west Wales’ top tourist destinations after being unoccupied since 1996. www.cardigancastle.com

ENGLISH HERITAGE/ROBERT SMITH; JOHN SLAVIN; NATIONAL TRUST IMAGES/ANDREW BUTLER; BRIGHTBLUE STUDIO; VICTORIA AND ALBERT MUSEUM; CASSON MANN; THE FITZWILLIAM MUSEUM; EILEEN LONG PHOTOGRSPHY/ENGLISH HERITAGE

Last-surviving UK steam tug-tender to be restored and opened to public in Liverpool by spring 2016

COMPETITION

Win

a two-night country break to Devon at the Buckland Tout-Saints boutique hotel where you can sample award-winning cuisine

THE PRIZE

Enjoy a two-night stay for two on a B&B basis with dinner included on one of the nights.

BY POST: Send your answer, name and contact details to Buckland Tout-Saints Competition, Discover Britain magazine, Archant House, Oriel Road, Cheltenham, Gloucestershire GL50 1BB ONLINE: Visit www.discoverbritainmag.com and click on ‘Competitions & Offers’ to enter the competition online.

TERMS & CONDITIONS: Closing date for all entries is 19 May 2015. The prize is valid for 12 months after the closing date and subject to availability. Travel not included. All additional costs payable by the winner. No cash alternative. Employees (and relatives) of Archant, Buckland Tout-Saints Hotel and Visit Devon are not eligible to enter.

✃

V

isit Devon and Buckland Tout-Saints Hotel have teamed up with Discover Britain to offer a relaxing two-night country break for two in Devon. Buckland Tout-Saints is an elegant boutique hotel located in idyllic countryside surroundings near the South Devon coastal town of Kingsbridge. The hotel is part of the award-winning Eden Hotel Collection and has recently been commended in the 2014/2015 Visit Devon Awards in the Small Hotel of the Year category.

Set in 4.5 acres of beautifully tended gardens and woodland, Buckland Tout-Saints is a wonderful place to relax and unwind in an unspoilt location. With classically furnished bedrooms and beautiful décor throughout, the hotel is tranquil and welcoming and offers award-winning cuisine that rates amongst the finest in the region. With a refined dining menu and private dining options available, guests will have plenty of enticing treats to choose from, with fresh, locally sourced ingredients combining to create a range of mouth-watering dishes.

For more information about Buckland Tout-Saints Hotel, call 01548 853 055 or visit www.tout-saints.co.uk. For further information about Devon, go to www.visitdevon.co.uk

HOW TO ENTER

What is the main element of a Devonshire cream tea?

A Scones

B Pasties

✓

C Ice cream

NAME .................................................................................................................

ADDRESS ............................................................................................................ ............................................................................................................................ ................................................................... POST CODE ....................................

EMAIL .................................................................................................................

I have a subscription

I prefer not to receive product information

Reviews

The latest books and DVDs celebrating Britain’s history HISTORY WITHOUT THE BORING BITS Ian Crofton, Quercus Books, Paperback, £9.99

Explore the lesser-known corners of history, where tales of a less palatable flavour finally get an airing. For every great monarch, battle, leader and writer, there’s a sorry, festering equivalent, and it is these that the book wittily addresses, breathing life into stories that read like soap operas and farce. For those who like their history entertainment rich, this one’s for you.

THREE OF A KIND Lose yourself in a fantasy world of myth and legend THE GREATEST KNIGHT Thomas Asbridge, Simon & Schuster, Hardback, £20 This swashbuckling tale of the real-life knight, William Marshal, has reached almost mythical proportions.

Once a figure of great interest and admiration from the medieval age, follow the story of his eventful life, heroic travels and epic rags to riches journey. www.simonandschuster.co.uk

www.quercusbooks.co.uk

MEDIEVAL MONSTERS BEHIND THE COUNTER: SHOP LIVES FROM MARKET STALL TO SUPERMARKET Pamela Horn, Amberley, Paperback, £9.99 While shopping online is the norm today, this title revels in the more outdated world of the traditional shopkeeper, from corner shops to department stores, recounting the lives of employees through Edwardian and Victorian times. Personal memoirs reveal how staff were treated, conditions endured, then and now, as retail work continues to evolve. www.amberley-books.com

THE STORY OF THE BRITISH AND THEIR WEATHER Patrick Nobbs, Amberley, Hardback, £20 As a subject on which everyone has an opinion, the weather is never far from our thoughts, and here the reader can discover more about our national obsession.

Recalling events that wreaked havoc on lives and landscape within living memory and beyond, chapters acknowledge historical factors and how the population weathered the storms, and coped in the aftermath. www.amberley-books.com

DVD BRITAIN’S BLOODIEST DYNASTY: THE PLATAGENETS £17.99 As the inspiration for the popular Game of Thrones TV series, the brutal years that shaped the Plantagenet dynasty are also among history’s most compelling. Follow the story of the monarchs who ruled for more than 300 years. This reconstruction of the times shows the ruthlessness of the age. www.amazon.co.uk

Damien Kempf and Maria L Gilbert, British Library, Hardback, £10 Every type of mythical monster can be discovered here, illustrated as they appeared in medieval literature. Satyrs and sea creatures, griffins and dragons were a source of fascination and fear then, just as now, albeit with a sense of Disney-edged delight. www.shop.bl.uk

THE CELTIC MYTHS: A GUIDE TO THE ANCIENT GODS AND LEGENDS Miranda Aldhouse-Green, Thames & Hudson, Hardback, £12.95 Complete with tales of magical creatures, heroes and romance, this title brings together stories that originated among the ‘Dark Age’ populace of Wales and Ireland, examining methods of ancient storytelling. www.thamesandhudson.com

discoverbritainmag.com APRIL/MAY 2015 | 17

WHAT’S ON OUR SELECTION OF THE ESSENTIAL EVENTS TAKING PLACE ACROSS BRITAIN IN APRIL & MAY

FORENSICS: THE ANATOMY OF CRIME

SOUTH

Until 21 June

Forensics: The anatomy of crime lures audiences in to case studies of death and detection. See how time and technology have moved on the delicate processes of collecting evidence from crime scenes at home and abroad; how sensationalised crimes of the Victorian age cemented myth; and witness the evidence of victims, suspects and investigators from real-life cases.

Wellcome Collection, London Tel: 020 7611 2222; www.wellcomecollection.org

METROPOLITAN POLICE, HERITAGE CENTRE; © GRAYSON PERRY; © VICTORIA & ALBERT MUSEUM; ARCHIVES DURAND-RUEL © DURAND-RUEL & CIE

GRAYSON PERRY

23 May – 13 September Consider Grayson Perry’s interpretation of contemporary life through his collections of ceramics, tapestries, prints and ironwork.

The more you look at this emotive work, the more there is to discover.

Turner Contemporary, Kent. Tel: 01843 233 000; www.turnercontemporary.org

INVENTING IMPRESSIONISM Until 31 May

Featuring 85 Impressionist masterpieces, Inventing Impressionism explores how a bold Parisian art dealer, Paul DurandRuel, paved the way for the likes of Monet, Degas, and Manet, when the art establishment was against them.

National Gallery, London Tel: 020 7747 2885; www.nationalgallery.org.uk

WAR GAMES Until 10 May

Relive your childhood at War Games, from the V&A’s Museum of Childhood collections.

Toys and games show how playthings have developed through the eras, from toy soldiers to battlefield computer games, and consider how these toys shape impressions of conflict.

SeaCity Museum, Southampton Tel: 023 8083 3007; www.seacitymuseum.co.uk

discoverbritainmag.com APRIL/MAY 2015 | 19

Events Slug (DETAIL) Until 19 April Bringing together a collection of work from 118 international artists, (detail) forms a vast collage of abstract scenes, which when studied individually, tell their own stories. Covering the entire space, the work was inspired by the unusual gallery building – a traditionally constructed Thai house – which explains the exotic nature of many of the paintings. Visitors are encouraged to make their own interpretations.

CANALETTO: CELEBRATING BRITAIN Until 7 June

For the first time, visitors can enjoy the collective works of Canaletto, and admire his impressions of Britain, which he captured during his nineyear stay in the country. Through the paintbrush, Canaletto: Celebrating Britain, charts the development of Britain between 1746 and 1755: the industrial and residential, public buildings and new projects which marked a period of nationwide growth, prosperity and confidence.

Paintings and drawings display the architectural talent of the day.

Compton Verney, Warwickshire Tel: 01926 645 500; www.comptonverney.org.uk

RECORDING BRITAIN Until 26 April At the start of the Second World War, a government project, the ‘Scheme for Recording the Changing Face of Britain’, was rolled out to capture the ‘places and buildings of characteristic national interest’. Artists rose to the challenge, creating over 1,500 works documenting quiet corners and pastoral scenes.

In contrast, Recording Britain will host works from the museum’s own collections.

Herbert Art Gallery & Museum, Coventry Tel: 024 7623 7521; www.theherbert.org

LOVE IS ENOUGH Until 6 September Combining the work of two 19th and 20th-century artists, Love is Enough: William Morris and Andy Warhol explores the parallels between the artists’ works, amassed from public and private collections.

Gas Hall, Birmingham Museum & Art Gallery Tel: 0121 348 8000; www.birminghammuseums.org.uk 20 | APRIL/MAY 2015 discoverbritainmag.com

THE PILGRIM TRUST © THE VICTORIA & ALBERT MUSEUM, LONDON; CITY ROYAL COLLECTION TRUST ® HER MAJESTY QUEEN ELIZABETH II; HUGO GLENDINNING; LEEDS MUSEUMS AND GALLERIES; THE ESTATE OF STANLEY ROYLE; QUEST FOR THE HOLY GRAIL TAPESTRIES - PANEL 3 - THE FAILURE OF SIR GAWAINE/ARTISTS: BURNE-JONES, EDWARD, MORRIS, WILLIAM DEARLE, JOHN HENRY, MORRIS & CO, 1895 – 1896

CENTRAL

The Usher Gallery, Lincoln Tel: 01522 782 040; www.thecollectionmuseum.com

THE GREAT OUTDOORS

Until 30 May Prolific 20th-century artist Stanley Royle captured the vibrancy of his adopted home of Sheffield and Yorkshire landscape, documenting development pre- and post-war. The Great Outdoors: Paintings by Stanley Royle includes Morning on the Derbyshire Moors (1920).

NORTH

Graves Gallery, Sheffield Tel: 0114 278 2600; www.museums-sheffield.org.uk

ARTIST ROOMS: ANSELM KIEFER

ANSELM KIEFER, URD, VERDANDI, SKULD (THE NORNS) 1983. OIL PAINT, SHELLAC, EMULSION AND FIBRE ON CANVAS. ARTIST ROOMS TATE & NATIONAL GALLERIES OF SCOTLAND. ACQUIRED JOINTLY THROUGH THE D’OFFAY DONATION WITH ASSISTANCE FROM THE NATIONAL HERITAGE MEMORIAL FUND AND THE ART FUND 2008. ©ANSELM KIEFER

Until 7 June

German-born Kiefer explores post-war themes of identity, environment and history, using natural materials such as lead, ash and sand. The Artist Rooms: Anselm Kiefer concept shows collections held by Tate and National Galleries of Scotland.

Tullie House Museum and Art Gallery, Carlisle Tel: 01228 618 718; www.tulliehouse.co.uk

HOW DO I LOOK? Until December 2015

If you think we’re obsessed with self image today, take a look at the evidence of yesteryear to see how people have glamorised themselves through the ages with the use of make-up, wigs, jewellery, tattoos and other adornments. How do I look? hosts a wealth of items – including photos and paintings – to help build a picture of differing approaches to the beauty regime of men and women around the world, dating from Ancient Egypt (kohl pots), through the Victorian era (corsets) and 1960s (false eyelashes).

Abbey House Museum, Leeds Tel: 0113 230 5492; www.leeds.gov.uk

CORNELIA PARKER Until 31 May

Having reopened to the public in February, the Whitworth begins with this major solo show by artist Cornelia Parker, whose work focuses on everyday objects transformed into the extraordinary. Drawing on the work of Blake, Turner, Constable and Picasso, and assisted by the Nobel Prize-winning scientist Kostya Novoselov, Parker has created a new artwork to celebrate the gallery’s reopening.

The Whitworth, University of Manchester Tel: 0161 275 7450; www.manchester.ac.uk discoverbritainmag.com APRIL/MAY 2015 | 21

Events

ARTIST ROOMS: ROY LICHTENSTEIN 14 March – 10 January 2016

The pop art of American artist Roy Lichtenstein is among the most radical of the 20th century.

Discover the materials and techniques used, and the personality behind the brush in Artist Rooms: Roy Lichtenstein.

SCOTLAND & WALES

Modern One , Edinburgh Tel: 0131 624 6200; www.nationalgalleries.org

KYFFIN WILLIAMS: PATAGONIA Until 9 May

The late Welsh artist, Sir John Kyffin Williams, was enchanted by the natural landscapes of his country, and his accolade for Outstanding Contribution to the Arts in Wales has ensured his status in the art world for ever more. Focusing on a series of works inspired by Williams’ visit to South America in 1968, Kyffin Williams: Patagonia takes place to mark 150 years since his countrymen first emigrated to Patagonia in 1865 for reasons of preserving cultural identity.

GAME MASTERS

Until 20 April This modern exhibition explores the world of the computer game – how it has evolved and what the future holds, and, even better, allows visitors the chance to get to grips with more than 100 playable games. It’s addictive stuff! Game Masters offers the chance to hear from designers, see rare artwork, and take on the challenge of games including Super Mario, Lemmings, and Sonic the Hedgehog.

National Museum of Scotland, Edinburgh Tel: 0300 123 6789; www.nms.ac.uk

ENERGETICA SUMMER FESTIVAL 24 May – end of August

Discover the natural and cultural environment of the Energetica corridor with a huge variety of activities over the summer. Now in its third year, the Energetica Festival showcases the wide range of activities on offer to residents and visitors alike including guided walks, wildlife spotting, photography lessons and events focused on food, science and entrepreneurship. There’s something for everyone from Bridge of Don to Peterhead.

www.energetica.uk.com 22 | APRIL/MAY 2015 discoverbritainmag.com

NEIL HANNA; BY PERMISSION OF LLYFRGELL GENEDLAETHOL CYMRU/THE NATIONAL LIBRARY OF WALES; © THE ROY LICHTENSTEIN FOUNDATION 2014

Moma Wales, Machynlleth, Powys, Wales Tel: 01654 703 355; www.momawales.org.uk

Q&A

Slug

ELECTION! BRITAIN VOTES PEOPLE’S HISTORY MUSEUM, MANCHESTER UNTIL 28 JUNE 2015

CURATOR: CHRIS BURGESS

THE PRESS ASSOCIATION

In the run-up to May’s general election the People’s History Museum’s ‘Election! Britain Votes’ exhibition is primed to stir emotions. Accessing the museum’s collections, the exhibition will showcase an object from every general election since 1906, from propaganda posters to Harold Wilson’s pipe, encapsulating the nation’s modern voting history. A series of events, including talks and films, will intensify as 7 May’s election day approaches, culminating in an election-night party.

Q Election! is a great way to get people thinking about politics. How will this exhibition inspire voters?

The Scottish referendum demonstrated that people are disillusioned with the main political parties. If the public is presented with an issue that moves beyond the narrow confines of party, massive engagement in politics is possible. With Election!, we aim to engage politics in three ways: firstly, by showing that parliament can make a difference. From votes for all in 1928 to the Gay Marriage act in 2013, parliament shapes the world we live in. Secondly, our aim is to engage young people in politics by helping them to find their voice. The exhibition will have a space where groups can come together, discuss politics and the issues that concern them in a safe environment, and provide a platform to say these things to a large audience.

Thirdly, we have commissioned artist Alex Gardner to take what can be the archaic nature of general elections and make it visual, vibrant and, crucially, understandable. We are stripping elections back to basics and using quirky visuals to make it clearer.

Q Can you describe your research?

We’ve borrowed a poster from the University of Essex, which holds the archive of the Social Democratic Party, while a private collector is lending us a copy of the famous 1979 Conservative poster ‘Labour Isn’t Working’; the unusual thing about this one is that it’s signed by Margaret Thatcher. We hope to use the exhibition to bring the public and experts closer together.

Perhaps one of the reasons why the political process is so mistrusted is that a veil of complexity lies across it. We’ll have a series of events where experts, including academics, pollsters and journalists, explain what they do.

Q Is there an overwhelming range of information available?

With 70,000 objects we always have to be selective in what we display. We have made the decision to display one object from every general election of the 20th and 21st century. Honing the choice down to one item per election has been a challenge, but the aim was to choose one object to sum up the main issues of the day.

Q Is there an ‘interactive’ experience?

There will be a family-friendly trail that will lead people through the exhibition using fun activities, including drama, drawing and design. There will also be a chance to dress up to recreate famous election moments, such as the time Margaret Thatcher held a calf, or John Prescott’s unforgettable punch at an egg thrower in 2001. The main interactive element will be the opportunity for visitors to express their own political thoughts and feelings.

Q What best sums up the exhibition?

This might sound odd but it’s an object, namely Harold Wilson’s pipe. Elections are like theatre and this is a brilliant prop. It became a symbol of Wilson being a man of the people and gave him something to do when he was thinking how best to answer a question.

In private, Wilson preferred cigars, but the pipe helped to cement his electoral persona.

People’s History Museum, Left Bank, Spinningfields, Manchester M3 3ER. Tel: 0161 838 9190; www.phm.org.uk

discoverbritainmag.com APRIL/MAY 2015 | 23

“…the loveliest square mile in Lakeland”– Alfred Wainwright MBE (1907-1991) The Borrowdale Gates Hotel, a privately owned 4 star hotel considered a hidden gem in the Borrowdale Valley.

Stunning Borrowdale Valley views to be seen from the beautiful contemporary bedrooms and gorgeous terrace.

Surrounded by first class fell walking country and close to the many attractions of Keswick, Borrowgale Gates Hotel is the ideal get away.

PEACE & QUIET COME AS STANDARD

Grange-in-Borrowdale, Keswick, Cumbria CA12 5UQ I 01768 777204 hotel@borrowdale-gates.com I www.borrowdale-gates.com

The Intern

At home with Dylan HELEN OCHYRA is on a mission to find Britain’s best job. This time she shadows

the curator at Dylan Thomas Birthplace at 5 Cwmdonkin Drive, Swansea

HELEN OCHYRA

W

hen Geoff Haden first visited his place of work he was horrified.

“The house was open and I just called in,” he says, “I was horrified. It was like a student bedsit.”

This was the Dylan Thomas Birthplace at 5 Cwmdonkin Drive – and Geoff later bought it, restoring it to its 1914 heyday. His first impression wasn’t wrong – the house was indeed once used as student accommodation but, as Geoff says, “at least it had not been structurally altered.”

When Geoff took the house on in 2005 there was a lot of work to do.

Out went the green corner bath that sat in Dylan’s birth bedroom, brought in instead a sturdy wooden double bed and a writing desk under the window.

This is where Dylan (everyone refers to him by his first name) sat to write – and it is the first place I want to sit.

Unusually for a historic house, this is actively encouraged. Geoff decided to open the house to paying guests in 2008 and today many Dylan fans stay here overnight, sleeping in the room where he was born – or even in his bedroom.

As well as operating the house as a B&B, Geoff leads tours around it, answering questions on everything

Many Dylan fans stay here overnight, sleeping in the room where he was born Above: Geoff Haden, Dylan devotee. Below: Helen amongst the paraphernalia of 5 Cwmdonkin Drive

from the tiles to the crockery, and today we are showing round a large group. Geoff’s knowledge is impressive, but he concedes: “I went to Swansea Grammar, as did Dylan, but I didn’t think much of it at the time.”

Years later Geoff was given a book of Dylan’s short stories and was “amazed to find stories about places I knew.”

This recognition is one of the real joys of the house. Dylan talked of “ships sailing above rooftops” and these can be seen from the back bedroom window, overlooking Swansea Bay. Dylan’s writing has helped Geoff in restoring the house, as has Emily, the maid who worked there when she was 15, who helped get the detail right.

Geoff talks of meeting Jimmy Carter, ex-US President and lifelong Dylan fan, in Atlanta. Carter recorded a welcome message for the house, but for me there is no better welcome than Geoff’s. ■

FAST FACTS Open: Daily tours: 11am, 1pm, 3pm Cost: Daily tours £8; accommodation £150 per night Contact: 01792 472 555; www.5cwmdon kindrive.com

discoverbritainmag.com APRIL/MAY 2015 | 25

Slug

Lying closer to the Arctic Circle than it does to the centre of Britain, the little Scottish island of Fair Isle is the cherished home of a group of resourceful people, heavily outnumbered by the sheep and birds WORDS JAMES LOWEN

THE FAIREST ISLE OF ALL

26 | APRIL/MAY 2015 discoverbritainmag.com

Slug

The northern cliffs of Fair Isle, a remote outpost famed for its birdlife, historic shipwrecks, and traditional knitwear

discoverbritainmag.com APRIL/MAY 2015 | 27

Fair Isle

L

“

OOKING SOUTH FROM MY WINDOW,

I see the meeting of seas,” grins Tommy Hyndman through his bushy beard and below his handmade hat. “To my right is the Atlantic Ocean; to my left, the North Sea.” Alongside 50-odd hardy souls, Hyndman and his family live on a tiny, ruggedly beautiful Scottish island. Here there are six times as many sheep as people, and 20 times more puffins than sheep. Strong winds and poor soil prevent trees from taking root. There is neither pub nor policeman, and the sole school educates just five pupils. Yet Britain’s most remote island community not only ekes out a living but, somehow, is thriving. Best known for knitwear, birdlife, and being the birthplace of detective Jimmy Perez in Ann Cleeves’ Shetland crime stories, nowhere in Britain is quite like Fair Isle.

The island’s name derives from the Norse ‘Frideray’ meaning ‘peace’ or ‘far-off’. Both are Above: Sea thrift apposite. Fair Isle lies 30km from both colours the cliffs in the Shetland and Orkney archipelagoes, June. Opposite: off north-east Scotland. It is a speck on a Features of Malcolm’s mariner’s chart. The next nearest land in Head, on the island’s the west is Labrador, Canada, and in the south-west coast 28 | APRIL/MAY 2015 discoverbritainmag.com

east is Norway and its fjords. This uncompromising location makes travel on or off island an adventure. As devotees of BBC shipping forecasts well know (“warnings of gales in Hebrides, Bailey and Fair Isle…”), conditions are frequently inclement, rendering travel uncomfortable or even – for days at a time – impossible.

Some travellers favour two potentially stomach-churning hours on a bad day on the Good Shepherd mailboat, blanking thought of the hundreds of historic ship carcasses encircling Fair Isle’s coastline. Others choose instead a 25-minute plane ride which ultimately descends past towering cliffs, whitewashed by guano from 100,000 nesting seabirds, onto the island’s bumpy airstrip.

However you arrive, the initial impression of Fair Isle will be similar: a majestic rocky plug dominating the seascape, and a terrestrial haven demanding exploration. Just 4km long and 2km wide, with a coastline lavishly pleated with deep gullies called ‘geos’, the island is big enough to lose yourself (if tranquillity is what you seek) but small enough never to risk getting lost. This is undeniably a place in which to wander. As long as you stay out of gardens and cross fences using stiles, you may ramble freely. The islanders’ liberal attitude to access reflects their own motives for moving here – and for staying. “It’s a beautiful place to live,” says

Slug

A MAJESTIC ROCKY PLUG DOMINATING THE SEASCAPE, AND A TERRESTRIAL HAVEN DEMANDING EXPLORATION

discoverbritainmag.com APRIL/MAY 2015 | 29

Fair Isle

THE LANDSCAPE UNDERPINS CORE COMPONENTS OF THE LOCAL ECONOMY: CROFTING, KNITTING AND ECOTOURISM

Nick Riddiford, who arrived in 1981 for work, and never left.

So Fair Isle is an enchanting home or holiday destination for wilderness lovers. In successive months, emphatic landscapes are bejewelled by blue Spring Squill, pink Sea Thrift, magenta Marsh Orchids, golden Bog Asphodel and scarlet Waxcap fungi. Fair Isle’s birdlife, meanwhile, is as world-renowned as its knitwear, because the island provides rich pickings for tired migrants and breeding seabirds.

The recently rebuilt Fair Isle Bird Observatory and Guesthouse, tucked away near North Haven, records avian populations and movements, and plays a pivotal role in island life. Walking south from the ‘Obs’, inhaling the cleanest of air, visitors perceive Fair Isle as a skerry of two contrasting halves. An uncompromising, treeless, Clockwise from brown and beige north with its heathertop left: Fulmar in clad hills, rocky moorland and tufted flight; the mailboat grasslands where sheep roam and where transports visitors the Observatory is the sole human too; Dave Wheeler; settlement. And the southern reaches ubiquitous puffins; Marsh Orchid – softer and lower, greener and more

gently undulating, areas that shield the score of traditional crofts where most residents live.

Archaeological evidence suggests that ‘Frideray’ has been settled for 5,000 years and residents have always been dependent on the island’s natural environment. Even today, the landscape underpins core components of the local economy – crofting, knitting and ecotourism. Crofting is unique to Scotland; a traditional system of working the land, with 18,000 smallholdings scattered across the island’s north and west. Fair Isle’s 18 crofts range in size from the equivalent of six up to 40 football pitches, and maintaining this low-intensity subsistence farming is key to sustaining the island’s character.

Similarly integral is knitwear: for centuries, demand for woollen wear kept women busy trading textiles with discoverbritainmag.com APRIL/MAY 2015 | 31

Fair Isle

Ringing the changes Fair Isle is internationally important for the work done at its Bird Observatory Dave Parnaby returns to the Fair Isle Bird Observatory and Guesthouse after the early morning ‘ringing round’ during which he has checked a series of astutely positioned bird traps in the form of mist nets. He clutches three cloth bags, each holding a bird that has harmlessly snared itself. The Observatory warden extracts the first feathered bundle, a Robin-sized bird with a bold white eyestripe, and identifies it immediately.

“It’s a male Bluethroat,” Parnaby says.

“Born this year, probably in Scandinavia.”

He carefully encircles the bird’s leg in a lightweight metal ring before releasing it back into the wild.

It was in the early 1900s that ornithologists from the Royal Scottish Museum grasped Fair Isle’s significance as a staging post for migrating birds. Back then, typical field equipment was a shotgun rather than binoculars and nets. Crofters were under instruction to shoot unfamiliar birds and send the skins to the museum for identification.

In 1948, realising the dream that had kept his spirits alive while he was a prisoner of war, George Waterston purchased the island and established the Observatory. Opened in 2010 the current buildings – eco-friendly and comfortable following a multi-million pound investment – are the Observatory’s third incarnation. The Guesthouse receives hundreds of guests each year, from walkers to wilderness-loving families, to wildlife enthusiasts and researchers.

For those scientists, ringing (or ‘banding’) birds, rather than shooting them, helps explore how environmental changes affect population numbers. Each uniquely numbered ring provides a harmless means of identifying birds as individuals. Recapturing a ringed bird reveals its migratory movements and lifespan. The discoveries have been groundbreaking. For instance, it took ringing to reveal that Swallows wintered in South Africa, and not at the bottom of ponds as had been previously surmised! Fair Isle has form with spectacular recoveries of ringed birds: one Long-tailed Duck that had been caught and recorded there turned up in Finland 20 years later.

So who knows what secrets that young Bluethroat will unravel?

passing ships. But knitting and crofting are becoming harder as a way of making a living.

Both verge on the uneconomic, although neither has yet gone the way of fishing. This was the occupation of almost every islander in the last century, but now nobody does it.

The man behind local shipping forecasts, meteorologist Dave Wheeler, also crofts. Fortunes have changed dramatically since his arrival in 1972. “Early on, agriculture provided 85 per cent of our income,” he says. “Now it is 15 per cent.”

Hollie and Deryk Shaw’s croft contains 50 sheep and 20 hens, plus pigs, polytunnels and vegetable gardens. They try to run it as a commercial venture. “But if you multiplied the hours you work by even the minimum wage,” sighs Hollie, “you would make a huge loss.”

The tradition of hand-knitting still passes from mother to daughter.

But nowadays it is, “mostly for the pleasure of dressing family and friends,” notes Elizabeth Riddiford. Through her company, Exclusively Fair Isle, Elizabeth is now, like Hollie Shaw, one of very few islanders to supplement their income through knitting. Such changes are signs of the times. Fair Isle’s population has shrunk by 85 per cent in 150 years.

“Today only 22 people are of working age,” says Hollie. “So we busily juggle various jobs needed by the community.”

Top: The Observatory building offers 3-star accommodation, April to October.

Above: Lesser whitethroat. Above right: Tommy Hyndman

discoverbritainmag.com APRIL/MAY 2015 | 33

Above: Small-scale No employment is full-time, living. Top right: however, so making a living demands Essentials for the flexibility and ingenuity. “Everybody famous knits. Right: has multiple jobs,” says Deryk Shaw, Islanders reside in the whose LinkedIn profile lists him as more fertile southern third of the island ‘ornithologist, crofter, ferryman, fireman, coastguard, engineer and roadworker’. Having several roles also means everyone plays a vital function in the community. It makes being a hermit impossible, which is somewhat ironic given that isolation (“escapism” says Hollie Shaw) attracts many to live here.

Indeed, Fair Isle folk are as closely knit as their best-known product. Everyone knows, trusts and welcomes one another; doors remain unlocked, car keys stay in their ignitions, and crime is unknown. “Islanders are welcoming and inclusive.

Everyone looks out for one another,” says Deryk Shaw.

Yet Fair Isle is no insular idyll – as the challenges of living here attest. It is advisable not to fall seriously ill, given that a GP visits only eight times a year. Residents must be their own mechanics, and when weather precludes transport to the mainland for weeks, fridges run bare and fuel is rationed.

“You learn to live with uncertainty,” says Tommy Hyndman, who originally came to the island from the United States.

Families are split when children reach secondary-school age

and have to leave the island for boarding school on Shetland.

More prosaically: “You can’t pop to the chippy if you’ve no time to cook,” says Hollie Shaw.

It would be understandable if residents, defeated by these hardships, abandoned crofts and isle. Or retreated myopically inwards, scorning the external world. Neither reaction would be in Frideray DNA, though. Islanders have long looked outwards – from the decades of trading with passing ships to the modern tourism that the whole community considers, to use Nick Riddiford’s words, “underpins our entire economy”.

Both Dave Wheeler and Deryk Shaw characterise islanders as “forward-looking”. The community is confronting demographic, environmental and economic issues by developing a plan to sustain the ‘far-off’ island into the future. For Tommy Hyndman, now into his ninth year of residency, that is welcome: “Sure, living here can be difficult. But Fair Isle is a very special place. It has become my home.” ■

FAIR ISLE IS NO INSULAR IDYLL, AS THE CHALLENGES OF LIVING HERE ATTEST: A GP VISITS ONLY EIGHT TIMES A YEAR 34 | APRIL/MAY 2015 discoverbritainmag.com

JAMES LOWEN; ROBERT HARDING; ALAMY

Fair Isle

Slug

MAGNA CARTA Signed 800 years ago, Magna Carta remains a keystone of British democracy and one of the most famous documents in history around the world

T

his year marks the 800th anniversary of Magna Carta, the historic charter that would become a lynchpin for democracy and decreed that everyone, including the king, would be held accountable to the law. To mark this momentous anniversary, a vast range of special events will be taking place across the country, while a series of new trails have also been launched. Over the coming pages, learn more about the history of Magna Carta and the barons who rallied against King John to instigate the laws outlined within it, and take a closer look at the historic sites, including Runnymede and Salisbury Cathedral, found along the new Magna Carta trails.

36 | APRIL/MAY 2015 discoverbritainmag.com

GETTY IMAGES

Slug

discoverbritainmag.com APRIL/MAY 2015 | 37

Magna Slug Carta

THE BARONS’ TALE England’s best-known charter of rights was wrung out of a reluctant king by his landowning aristocracy. So who were these powerful men and how and why did they do it?

WORDS ANTHONY LAMBERT

I

t has been described as ‘England’s greatest export’.

Magna Carta’s influence through 800 years has been immense. This affirmation of the rights of the common man was cited by Sir Thomas More at his trial for treason against Henry VIII in 1535; a copy was carried by the Pilgrim Fathers to North America in 1620; the future US President Thomas Jefferson used it in drawing up the Declaration of Independence in 1776; and it was referred to by Nelson Mandela at his South African trial in 1964. It has inspired many western or western-influenced political systems, from Australia and Canada to India, and four chapters remain on the UK statute book.

Yet few of the great turning points in English history are as vaguely understood. Even Prime Minister David Cameron 38 | APRIL/MAY 2015 discoverbritainmag.com

had to admit on US television that he didn’t know what the two words meant. Moreover, the Great Charter that was agreed, but not actually signed, by King John on 15 June 1215, was not a single, definitive document but one that was repeatedly rewritten – in 1216, 1217 and 1225.

Probably the best-known fact about Magna Carta is that it was apparently ratified in the middle of a water meadow named Runnymede, beside the River Thames near Egham in Surrey, a landscape now cared for by the National Trust.

Runnymede means ‘meadow at the island where councils meet’ and refers to the ‘Witan’, or Council, of Anglo-Saxon kings. But why and how a group of disaffected barons and knights extracted a series of concessions and personal rights from a king is not such common knowledge.

Magna Carta

Magna Carta Memorial at Runnymede, Surrey Above right: Magna Carta, Latin for ‘Great Charter’

A KING IN CRISIS John had proved an exacting but ineffective and duplicitous king from the moment he came to the throne in 1199.

Resentment over excessive taxation to pay for overseas campaigns had been a festering sore since Richard I’s reign, but after Normandy and Anjou had been lost to the French in 1204, John responded by flogging his court around the country to raise the money needed to win back the territory.

Consequently, the years after 1207 witnessed the heaviest burden of financial exploitation by the crown of its landed gentry since the Norman Conquest in 1066. To penal taxation was added John’s arbitrary seizure of property, disdain for legal procedures, and elevation of new men in place of the loyal supporters of his youth. John also alienated the church

by scheming to take over ecclesiastical revenues. More significantly, he rejected the Pope’s appointment of Stephen Langton as Archbishop of Canterbury, not wanting to bow to the power of Rome.

As a result of this, England was placed under an interdict in 1208, the doors of its churches were shut, and all services were suspended except for baptism and the last rights. Only the fear of invasion by France in 1213 persuaded John to accept Langton, become a papal vassal and surrender his kingdom to the influence of the Pope.

War and the land-grab across the Channel continued and despite expensively acquired mercenaries, an English and German force suffered a humiliating defeat by France at the Battle of Bouvines in 1214. This sealed the loss of most of England’s territory in France and was seen by many as a sign of divine disfavour of the king.

When John returned from France with his prestige as ruined as his coffers, a group of barons termed ‘the Northerners’ sought to bind him to a set of conditions and, at a meeting in Bury St Edmunds in November 1214, they agreed to base their demands on the coronation charter of Henry I from a century before.

In this charter, Henry undertook to end the practice of seizing land from the Church on the death of an abbott or bishop, and interfering in the distribution of a baron’s inheritance or the marriage choices they made for their female relatives, unless it was to an enemy of the crown.

Widows could keep their dowries and remarry to whoever they chose. If a baron made himself and his horses available for military service, he would not have to give grain and farm goods as well. In law, a baron would be made to stand trial discoverbritainmag.com APRIL/MAY 2015 | 39

Alnwick Castle, Northumberland.

Right: King John hunting. Below: Seal of Robert FitzWalter, baronial leader of the opposition to the king

for crimes committed and not be allowed to buy his freedom, and Henry also agreed to maintain England’s forests.

In the event, Henry didn’t adhere to the promises made in his coronation charter, but it at least existed to form the basis and precedence for the barons’ new demands years later.

Among the original leaders were four men who had not only refused to support King John in his 1214 campaign, but had resisted payment of tax in lieu of that service: Eustace de Vesci, William de Mowbray, Roger de Montbegon and Richard de Percy.

THE BARONS UNITE

Military leadership of the rebels was assumed by Robert FitzWalter who had also been implicated in the 1212 plot against King John 40 | APRIL/MAY 2015 discoverbritainmag.com

Eustace de Vesci owned extensive lands in northern England including the castles at Alnwick and Malton, and had an intense dislike of the king. He had been accused of plotting John’s murder in 1212 and had fled to Scotland, though he was allowed to return the following year after John’s submission to the Pope.

William de Mowbray’s sense of grievance stemmed from a failed law suit which had impoverished his Yorkshire and Lincolnshire estates. Roger de Montbegon was one of those who felt slighted by John’s preferment of new men rather than his supporters during his pre-coronation years. He held estates in Lincolnshire, Nottinghamshire and Yorkshire, but his principal manor and castle was at Hornby in Lancashire.

The manor of Topcliffe in north Yorkshire was the main holding of the fourth powerful and independent northern baron, Richard de Percy.

The northern character of the rebellion was diluted by the addition of such families as the Bigods of Norfolk, the de Clares of Suffolk, Henry de Bohun from Wiltshire, and the earls of Hereford, Norfolk and Essex. Military leadership of the rebels was assumed by Robert FitzWalter who had also been implicated in the 1212 plot against John and styled himself ‘Marshal of the Army of God’.

The king deferred discussion of the barons’ demands until

Magna Carta

Charter of King John, 9 May 1215. Above: Hornby Castle, near Lancaster, former seat of Roger de Montbegon

a council set to meet at Oxford in April 1215. Support for the dissident barons grew in England and Wales, and rather than attend the council in Oxford they met under arms somewhere between Stamford and Northampton and formally defied the king on 5 May. Despite John holding many castles, retaining the support of the Pope and some barons, and having the upper hand in his ability to pay for mercenaries, he knew the outcome of a pitched battle would have been unpredictable so he shied away from that. There was some violence when rebel forces took Bedford and sacked Shrewsbury, but luckily for John most barons stood aloof: of England’s 197 baronies, it is estimated that 39 supported the rebel barons and 39 the king.

However, a turning point in bargaining positions came with the barons’ seizure of London in mid-May, aided by supporters in the city. This loss forced the king into greater concessions, even though he retained the rest of the country.

Safe conduct letters issued by John at the end of May marked a cessation in hostilities and new round of negotiations began.

The final stage was face-to-face meetings between John and baronial envoys. So few accounts have survived that a detailed description of events is impossible, but final agreement appears to have been reached on 15 June at Runnymede. Before they dispersed, the barons would have formally ended their defiance by individually renewing their homage to the king. The Charter that was then drawn up discoverbritainmag.com APRIL/MAY 2015 | 41

Magna Carta comprised approximately 3,550 abbreviated Latin words in 63 chapters written on calfskin parchment. Its continuous text ranged from the general, such as giving freemen (ie, barons and tradespeople, as opposed to bound villeins and peasants) protection against arbitrary detention and dispossession, to such specifics as the removal of fish-weirs.

A fundamental tenet was the idea that the law should protect rather than restrict the liberties of freemen.

THE AFTERMATH Sadly, Magna Carta failed to create a lasting peace between monarch and barons, and armed hostilities resumed after John repudiated the treaty only a month later, and sought its annulment by the Pope. The barons then offered the English throne to French prince Louis, son of Philip II, who landed on the Isle of Thanet the next summer. He swept through southern England, but rebel defections to the king and royal defeat of a supporting Scottish army turned the tide.

Restoration of the pre-Magna Carta status in the country may have been the result, but John contracted dysentery and died in Newark Castle in October 1216, leaving his young nine-year-old son Henry as his heir.

Those barons who had supported Louis had, by that time, changed their minds amid mounting tensions. Support was growing for Henry under the guardianship, and later

King John would have travelled from Windsor Castle to Runnymede

HOW THE BARONS MET In the 13th century, arranging political matters was fraught with difficulty With the rebellious barons in possession of London and based at Staines in Middlesex, and King John staying at Windsor Castle, the choice of neutral ground at Runnymede was an obvious one for the meetings to agree the new charter. Safe conduct passes for a limited period were issued by John to allow negotiations to take place.

The greatest journeys had already taken place, with the northern barons having had to travel long distances on rough tracks to lend their support to the rebellion.

Summertime was the only feasible time to undertake any activity of this kind.

How the parties travelled to Runnymede is unknown, but the Thames was under royal jurisdiction during the Middle Ages, with water

bailiffs to supervise affairs on the river above Staines.

The reason for the barons’ choice of Staines for their base was its defensible location on the north side of Staines bridge, as opposed to Windsor Castle’s position on the south bank.

This meant that the baronial envoys at Staines were close enough to travel by road, while the king would almost certainly have travelled between Windsor Castle and Runnymede by boat.

Whether Runnymede Meadows or a small nearby island in the middle of the Thames, then the site of a nunnery, was the place where the meeting actually took place has never been established satisfactorily.

Certainly, some are of the opinion that the island

would have been the barons’ choice as it would have made it difficult for John to spring any surprises of a military kind.

Wherever it was, pavilion tents were reportedly erected on the site, with pennants flying, and days of tense talks followed.

At the culmination, King John affixed his royal seal to a document entitled The Articles of the Barons, which then went to Chancery to be written up properly into a charter.

These events were witnessed by Hugh of Northwold who had arrived to have his election as Abbot of Bury St Edmunds given royal approval. He may well have also seen the king’s clerks preparing the copies of the Charter that would go to each county,

replicating the wording that was drafted by the Chancery clerks.

Visiting Runnymede The site at Runnymede has been under the protection of the National Trust since 1931 when it was given by Lady Fairhaven, in memory of her husband, civil engineer and MP, Urban Broughton, two years after his death.

Admission is free, although parking is £1.50 an hour (free to NT members).

Moorings on the river Thames are available at £3 for up to 6 hours; £6 for up to 24 hours.

A variety of Magna Carta anniversary events are being planned this summer.

Find out more at www.nationaltrust.org.uk/ runnymede

discoverbritainmag.com APRIL/MAY 2015 | 43

Magna Carta Newark Castle in Nottinghamshire, where John met his end. Below: Henry III who succeeded John

regency, of William Marshal. The Treaty of Lambeth ended Louis’ claim to the throne, and Henry was crowned Henry III at Gloucester Cathedral on 28 October 1216. A fortnight later the Great Charter of Liberties was reissued in the king’s name, and the application of the papal legate’s seal emphasised that a manifesto of rebellion had become government policy.

In ensuing years Magna Carta was revised several times under pressure from the barons, but did not gain its name until the 1217 version was written. This was to distinguish it from the contemporaneous Carta de Foresta (Charter of the Forest) issued while Henry III was still a minor, in which forest law specifically was clarified. The Forest Charter reestablished rights lost under previous monarchs of freemen having access to the royal forests and heathlands to forage.

The issue of the 1225 Magna Carta by Henry’s ‘own spontaneous goodwill’, made this the definitive version. ■ 44 | APRIL/MAY 2015 discoverbritainmag.com

ALAMY; ROBERT HARDING; THINKSTOCK; THE BRITISH LIBRARY BOARD

Magna Carta was revised under pressure from the barons, but did not gain its name until the 1217 version was written

Slug

THE

ROYAL CHARTER’S PROGRESS

T

o celebrate the 800 years of Magna Carta and highlight all the places associated with the creation and distribution of the history-forming parchments, a series of six trails has been defined. At all of the sites featured in the trails there will be Magna Carta events throughout the summer. Only four of the original copies of Magna Carta, painstakingly written up by scribes and sent around the kingdom to declare King John’s undertaking to the free men of his country, still survive. Two are in the British Library and the other two at Lincoln and Salisbury Cathedrals. There were subsequent versions, however, issued under John’s successors in 1216, 1217, 1225 and 1297, and some of these will also be on display in various places along the trails.

Visit www.magnacarta800th.com

Durham Cartmel TRAIL

3

York

Lincoln TRAIL

5

Norwich

TRAIL

6

Hereford

Worcester Framlingham Oxford St Albans

Trowbridge Faversham Canterbury Windsor London TRAIL TRAIL 2 Salisbury Dover 1 Pevensey TRAIL

4

discoverbritainmag.com APRIL/MAY 2015 | 47

Slug Carta Magna Salisbury Cathedral TRAIL

1

LONDON TO WINDSOR FOUR DAYS

This trail starts with a day in the City of London, visiting the Heritage Gallery in the Guildhall where, until 4 June, a copy of the Magna Carta issued in 1297 can be seen. From this parchment hangs a very clear example of the king’s seal, so clear it was used to create a mould for a replica charter that was given to the US Congress in 1976 on the 200th anniversary of the Declaration of American Independence.

The Temple Church, London HQ of the Knights Templar from the 1160s, played a vital role in the months leading up to Runnymede as negotiations between the barons and King John were held there. On 19 and 20 September take the chance to see inside the Inner and Middle Temples and their gardens, as well as the Temple Church.

Day Two takes in the British Library, holder of two of only four remaining copies of the original 1215 charter. Thomas Jefferson’s handwritten copy of the American Declaration of Independence is here too, as is an original copy of the US Bill of Rights, and royal relics telling the Magna Carta story.

On the third day the destination is Runnymede Meadows, the most famous place associated with John and the Charter.

The riverside spot is an evocative place to contemplate the events of 800 years ago and imagine the pavilions of the barons and the arrival of the reluctant king to seal the deal.

Day Four ends the trail in Windsor and the oldest and largest inhabited castle in the world, and a favourite residence WHILE YOU’RE of King John.

THERE Other attractions to visit PLANNING YOUR VISIT in the area include: ■ The British Library exhibition ■ St Paul’s Cathedral runs until 1 September; visit ■ Shakespeare’s Globe www.bl.uk to book tickets ■ British Museum ■ For information on ■ Charles Dickens Runnymede visit www.

Museum nationaltrust.org.uk/ ■ Hampton Court runnymede ■ Kew Gardens ■ For details of the Temple ■ The Savill Garden Open Weekend and ■ Brooklands other events, go to www.

Motorsport and templechurch.com Aviation Museum

Guildhall, London

48 | APRIL/MAY 2015 discoverbritainmag.com

TRAIL

2

SALISBURY & WILTSHIRE TWO DAYS

The trail begins at the cathedral in Salisbury, home of one of the best preserved copies of the original 1215 Charter. An interactive exhibition is being staged in the newly conserved Chapter House and there will be lectures and walks throughout the summer. Between 22 May and 6 June there is an international arts festival in Salisbury and among the events will be performances of Shakespeare’s King John. Between 15 and 20 September the Cathedral hosts a Magna Carta-inspired flower festival.

TRAIL

3

CATHEDRAL CITIES OF THE NORTH THREE DAYS

The start of this trail leads to the fourth of the original Magna Carta parchments from 1215, housed in Lincoln Cathedral. Here, it is being displayed next to the 1217 Charter of the Forest, a sort of companion piece in that it clarified the rights of people to exploit the natural resources available in England’s woodland for hunting, charcoal making and wood cutting.

Day Two brings a journey north to the city of York. In the Yorkshire Museum there is an exhibition about the city’s independence, gained when they gave King John money in 1212 to buy the right to collect their own taxes, hold their own courts and appoint a mayor. This agreement heralded the freedoms granted by Magna Carta.

In the afternoon, a trip to the west is recommended – to the Priory Church of St Mary and St Michael in Cartmel in Cumbria, founded by William Marshal. He was not only one of the powerful 25 barons who forced the king’s hand, but he also became Lord Regent during the childhood of John’s son who became Henry III at the age of only nine when his father died of dysentery in 1216.

It was Marshal who oversaw the second version of Magna Carta in the same year. From 25 to 29 September the Priory will stage five days of medieval living history, tournèe, fayre and son et lumière to celebrate the 800th anniversary.

On Day Three you cross the Pennines once again to visit Durham University. Here, in the Palace Green Library, the only surviving copy of the 1216 version of Magna Carta will be on display until the end of August.

TRAIL

4

Gargoyle at Salisbury Cathedral

The second day takes you to Trowbridge, one of the Baron Towns. Henry de Bohun, one of the leading men to persuade King John to give his subjects rights and create Magna Carta, lived there and is pictured in a stained glass window in St James’ Church holding a copy of the document. Trowbridge will be celebrating the anniversary with a Charter Fayre from 24 to 26 July, with a medieval market, falconry, archery, music plays and jousting.

PLANNING YOUR VISIT ■ For a timetable of Salisbury Cathedral events visit www. salisburycathedral. org.uk/events WHILE YOU’RE THERE Other attractions to visit in the area include: ■ Stonehenge and Avebury stone circles ■ Longleat Safari and Adventure Park ■ Lacock village

Lincoln Cathedral

PLANNING YOUR VISIT ■ For Lincoln Cathedral information visit www. lincolncathedral.com ■ Opening times for York’s museums: www. yorkshiremuseum.org.uk ■ For advice on visiting Cartmel’s medieval festivities please see www. cartmelpriory.org.uk ■ For details of visits to Palace Green Library go to www.dur.ac.uk/palace.green

WHILE YOU’RE THERE ■ Lincoln Castle ■ York Minster and the city walls ■ Castle Museum ■ Brougham Hall ■ Durham Cathedral ■ Durham Castle ■ Beamish Museum ■ Auckland Castle

KENT & EAST SUSSEX THREE DAYS

The trail begins at Canterbury Cathedral where the antagonistic politics between Stephen Langton, Archbishop of Canterbury, and the Crown led to the confrontation that resulted in Magna Carta.

Langton sided with the barons and brought the power of the church to bear on the monarch, contributing greatly to the irresistible force that limited the royal powers.

The Beaney House of Art and Knowledge in the city’s High Street has an exhibition of Canterbury in the Age of the Magna Carta from 6 June to 6 September, including the Canterbury Cathedral copy of an original Magna Carta transcribed into the Prior register.

The second day is spent at the market town of Faversham. From 23 May to 28 June there will be a Magna Carta Rediscovered exhibition that will feature at its heart a 1300 version of the Charter, the last reissue, which carries the seal of Edward I. For the third day you have a choice, either to visit Dover Castle or the town of Pevensey in East Sussex. Dover was besieged by Louis VIII of France in 1216, invited by some of the barons when King John attempted to renege on the promises made in Magna Carta.

In Pevensey, Peter des Roches, Bishop of Winchester, was one of the witnesses of King John’s sealing of Magna Carta and a powerful supporter of the king who balanced the religious scales PLANNING YOUR VISIT tipped against the crown by ■ Canterbury Cathedral: the Archbishop of Canterbury. www.canterbury-cathedral.org ■ Find out more about visiting WHILE YOU’RE THERE The Beaney House at www. thebeaney.co.uk ■ Canterbury’s castle and Roman walls ■ Brogdale National Fruit Dover Castle Collections ■ Britain’s oldest brewery, Shepherd Neame, for a guided tour ■ Faversham Market on Tuesdays, Fridays and Saturdays ■ White Cliffs of Dover ■ Leeds Castle ■ Hever Castle ■ Chartwell

Canterbury Cathedral

discoverbritainmag.com APRIL/MAY 2015 | 49

Slug Carta Magna 5

EAST OF ENGLAND

St Albans Abbey

TWO DAYS

The first stop on this trail is the Abbey at St Albans where barons and clergy met in 1213 to demand recompense from King John for past violations of their rights. In the afternoon, there’s time to visit the remains of another Abbey, at Bury St Edmunds. This was where on St Edmund’s Day, 20 November 1214, the barons met again at the High Altar to swear allegiance to each other and vowed to press on with forcing King John to agree to a charter defining their liberties.

For Day Two, the trail takes you to Framlingham Castle in Suffolk, former home of Roger Bigod, Earl of Norfolk, one of the most important of the Magna Carta barons. The Castle was taken

by King John in 1216 as he tried to overturn Magna Carta, but it was returned to the family after his death.

The second day concludes in Norwich where the castle was besieged by the French, led by Prince Louis, who were supporting the king against the barons in the 1216 conflicts.

PLANNING YOUR VISIT At the University of East ■ For details of Framlingham Anglia in Norwich there Castle visit www.englishare public lectures and an heritage.org.uk/daysout/ exhibition of the results of properties/framlingham-castle three years’ worth of research ■ For more information on to find lost Magna Carta the University of East Anglia originals buried in archives in Magna Carta Project visit http:// Britain and France. magnacarta.cmp.uea.ac.uk

WHILE YOU’RE THERE ■ Verulamium Museum catalogues the life and times of Roman Britain ■ Saxstead Green Post Mill near Framlingham ■ Norwich Cathedral ■ Norfolk Broads

TRAIL

6

Coffin of King John, Worcester Cathedral

PLANNING YOUR VISIT ■ To visit the Bodleian Library see www.bodleian.ox.ac.uk ■ For Worcester Cathedral’s programme of events visit www.worcestercathedral.co.uk ■ To visit Hereford Cathedral, go to www.herefordcathedral.org

WHILE YOU’RE THERE ■ Ashmolean Museum in Oxford ■ The Oxford Colleges ■ The Commandery social history museum in Worcester ■ Severn Valley Railway ■ Berkeley Castle ■ The Mappa Mundi at Hereford Cathedral

50 | APRIL/MAY 2015 discoverbritainmag.com

Framlingham Castle

THE HEART OF ENGLAND THREE DAYS

Oxford’s Bodleian Library heads the trail. It is custodian of nearly a quarter of the world’s original copies of Magna Carta, including three of only four surviving charter revises from 1217, and a 1225 copy once sealed by Henry III. This summer, the atrium of Bodleian’s Weston Library will display a charter dated 1217, and one from 1225.

The second day of the trail takes you to Worcester Cathedral, where King John is buried in front of the High Altar and between the cathedral’s two saints, St Mary and St Wulfstan. The effigy on his tomb is the oldest one of a royal known in England. Until December 2016 there is a King John and Magna Carta exhibition in the North Transept, and from April there will be regular talks by the king’s tomb, lectures and an anniversary concert series. Between 18 and 22 October the Worcester Repertory Company will be performing Shakespeare’s King John.

Trail Six ends in Hereford where the New Library of Hereford Cathedral holds the best surviving example of the 1217 Magna Carta, issued by King John’s son, Henry III. It also has the only known copy of the King’s Writ, a letter written by the king to royal officials after his meeting with the barons at Runnymede. In it he tells them to be sure to publicise the contents of the Magna Carta copies they will receive throughout their area. The exhibition runs from 23 March to 30 September, although the King’s Writ will only be on display in September. Prior to that it will be in the British Library.

GETTY IMAGES/ISTOCKPHOTO; ROBERT HARDING; ALAMY; JOSEPH TURP/BRITISH LIBRARY

TRAIL

Slug

STORMY WEATHER For 154 years, vessels around the shores of the UK have been guided through the weather by radio broadcasts of the Shipping Forecast. But it is not only mariners who have a special place in their hearts for this service WORDS ANDREW WHITE

T

he Shipping Forecast has to be on anyone’s list of quintessentially British items. It’s every bit a national treasure as red telephone boxes, the Houses of Parliament and Routemaster buses. Strange, though, that a radio broadcast that lists sea areas with strange names around the British Isles, and predicts the weather expected in each of them, has become such a part of British life.

The biggest following by far is for the 00:48 broadcast on Radio 4. This is the extended remix version, lasting 12 minutes, which gives reports for the sea areas, followed by a full list of weather news from coastal stations and forecasts for inshore waters. The mystical 31 sea areas, the rhythm, form and steady speed of delivery of the forecast has a poetic resonance. The talk of “rising slowing” and “becoming 52 | APRIL/MAY 2015 discoverbritainmag.com

cyclonic later” has a hypnotic, elemental feel about it.

At this time of day, the lugubrious litany of “Cape Wrath to Rattray Head including Orkney”, and “Sandettie Light Vessel Automatic”, also has a calming quality, helping listeners to wind down at the end of the day. The 00:48 broadcast is preceded by the slow waltz, Sailing By, written

by Ronald Binge in 1962. As the Forecast must start at 00:48 exactly, Sailing By acts as a filler between it and the previous programme. The music also holds a special place as a bedtime accompaniment, usually playing for 30-40 seconds. If Radio 4 is running late, it can be dropped entirely but, occasionally, we are treated to the full two minutes 39 seconds.

The function this weather broadcast fulfills in ordinary people became clear one morning in May 2014 when, for the first time since 1924, the BBC failed to transmit it at its

Shipping Forecast DECIPHERING THE SHIPPING FORECAST The forecast follows a strict pattern and format, so it is fairly easy to understand once you know the structure

ROBERT HARDING; FRASER THOMSON/ALAMY

“VIKING, NORTH UTSIRE, SOUTH UTSIRE - SOUTHEAST 4 OR 5, INCREASING 6 OR 7, VEERING SOUTH, 4 OR 5 LATER. OCCASIONAL RAIN. GOOD, WITH FOG PATCHES, BECOMING MODERATE OR POOR”

second slot of 05:20. A technical problem left listeners with the BBC World Service, which broadcasts on Radio 4 overnight. On social media people declared their mornings out of sync with the loss of the Forecast. World order was only restored when it was finally heard at 06:40.

The Shipping Forecast has its roots in the formation of the Met Office as the country’s national weather service in 1854. Its first head was Captain, later Vice-Admiral, Robert FitzRoy – better known as the captain of HMS Beagle, the ship that took Charles Darwin on his voyage of exploration to South America.

In October 1859, the steam clipper Royal Charter foundered in a storm off Anglesey with the loss of over 450 lives. As a result of this tragedy, FitzRoy introduced the first British storm warning service for shipping in February 1861, taking observations from a network of 15 coastal stations and transmitting by telegraph.

By 1911, the eastern North Atlantic was covered, as well as the UK coastal waters. On

The sea areas referred to are always stated first, sometimes individually, but where a weather front is crossing several areas, they are often read together.

Then comes the wind. Here, it is from the south west, with a speed of force 4 or 5 on the Beaufort scale to start with but building up to force 6 or 7 before it changes direction (the veering bit) to the south and decreases again.

“Later” means the change in direction is not expected within 12 hours.

The last section is about visibility.

Here, it will be good (more than 5 nautical miles, turning moderate, or poor (between 1,000 metres and 2 nautical miles).

There. Simple.

1 January 1924, the first broadcast discernible as the modern Shipping Forecast was made. It was called Weather Shipping and was broadcast daily at 09:00 and 20:00 GMT from the powerful Air Ministry station GFA in London. In October 1925, it came from the large BBC transmitter at Daventry. The only breaks in these services were during the two World Wars.

In 1949, the now familiar sea areas were introduced, and for the first time we were treated to the evocative Bailey, Rockall and Dogger.

Apart from a few revisions and additions in 1955 and 1984, these are still in use today. The last change was in February 2002, when Finisterre was renamed FitzRoy, in honour of the Admiral.

Today, there are four broadcasts, the timings of which cannot be moved in the slightest… not even for cricket. In 2011, as England was close to retaining the Ashes, Radio 4 long wave went to the Shipping Forecast. The critical last wicket fell and listeners returned to hear the commentators say: “While you were away…” In fact, in the 2011 Test series, all three English victories were missed by listeners on long wave because of the need to inform shipping about sea area Humber.

The Shipping Forecast is no longer the only way to get weather reports out to shipping. Most mariners go online or consult HM Coastguard broadcasts. But a broadcast that is largely unintelligible to its many thousands of listeners – most of whom have no connection to the sea – will nonetheless always be treasured. ■ discoverbritainmag.com APRIL/MAY 2015 | 53

Saving our shoreline Fifty years ago, the National Trust began a campaign to preserve 875 miles of Britain’s coast from developers. Now standing at 742 miles saved and counting, the work goes on‌ WORDS JACK WATKINS

The iconic White Cliffs of Dover in Kent, showing South Foreland lighthouse 54 | APRIL/MAY 2015 discoverbritainmag.com

Slug

discoverbritainmag.com APRIL/MAY 2015 | 55

Neptune Coast

T

he blustery heights above the Straits of Dover encapsulate the glories of the British landscape and the immense span of this island’s history in one grand, sweeping view. Like a sudden, exceptionally strong blast of the wind, the realisation almost snatches your breath away. The scene on top of the celebrated White Cliffs is both homely and unnerving. Sheep have nibbled the close-cropped emerald turf for centuries, and in the warmer months meadow flowers, from gentle orchids and groundhugging vetches to vigorous spreads of Viper’s Bugloss, contribute subtle tapestries of colour. But the wild calls of the gulls have a desolate quality, and in places the cliff edge falls away sharply, revealing giddying views onto the relentless, incoming tide hundreds of feet below.

Historically, this heady spot is bound up with our kingdom’s identity. It was even the source of Britain’s earliest name – Albion, possibly taken from the Latin for white – bestowed by the Greek explorer Pytheas when he caught sight of the towering white rocks as he navigated these treacherous waters in the fourth century BC. For medieval kings, Dover and its castle, which is among the oldest and least altered of Norman fortresses, were the “lock and key” to England. The town’s proximity to France, with which the kings were frequently at war, made this area the most guarded stretch of coastline in England.

That military association has never died. Not surprisingly as Cap Blanc Nez, near Calais, is only 21 miles from the quaintly castellated old lighthouse at South Foreland, an easy four mile walk away along the cliff tops from Dover town.

Napoleon trained his guns in Dover’s direction from across the water at the turn of the 19th century. Later, the town was part of Hellfire Corner as Hitler’s bombs rained down. It witnessed ships returning from the evacuation of Dunkirk, the aerial conflict of the Battle of Britain in the skies above the North Downs, and the terror of the V1 pilotless bombers in the later stages of the Second World War. Yet, as the nearest point in England to the Continent, the White Cliffs is also part of the cultural highway to Europe, and the point of departure for many a holiday abroad. The shared history of this country with mainland Europe is epitomised in the chalk geology of the Downs and that of northern France, the two points having formed a continuous land mass 20,000 years ago.

In recent times, however, the White Cliffs has taken on a new significance as a key tract of land in the drive to protect our most important stretches of coast for their natural beauty and environmental Top right: Lundy value. Fifty years ago the National Island, off the North Trust launched its Neptune Coastline Devon coast. Right: Campaign (then known as Enterprise The Farne Islands Neptune) at a time when there were host Puffins, Arctic fears that oil refineries, holiday camps Terns and Guillemots 56 | APRIL/MAY 2015 discoverbritainmag.com

and housing developments would swamp some of the finest, most environmentally and historically valuable parts of our coastline. The White Cliffs, where a large portion of land was first acquired in 1968, was one of the earliest purchases as part of what has developed into the Trust’s longest running campaign. It now owns and manages over 742 miles of coastline around England, Wales and Northern Ireland.

In reality, the Trust’s interest in coastal conservation stretches much further back than the start of Neptune, to its earliest days. The first piece of land ever acquired was a small portion of coastal cliff at Dinas Oleu, in north west Wales, in

Top left: German 1895, the year the Trust was founded.

The Farne Islands, loved for its seabirds, propaganda photo of the Luftwaffe over seals and atmospheric monastic ruins, the White Cliffs, 1940. was brought into the Trust’s care in Top right: Napoleon, 1925. These were small steps. By England’s old enemy. the time the geological wonder of Above: Dinas Oleu the Giant’s Causeway in Northern Ireland was taken on in 1962, fears about the future of other cherished portions of coastline were growing.

In 1964, the University of Reading conducted a survey, commissioned by the Trust, containing extensive handdiscoverbritainmag.com APRIL/MAY 2015 | 57

Neptune Coast

The purchase of Whiteford Burrows in 1965 was followed two years later by Rhossili Beach and Down accessible at low tide. There are also large populations of annotated maps of areas of coast in need of protection, and migrant sea birds, and basking seals and their pups. considered suitable for acquisition by the Trust.

The purchases on the Gower Peninsula were soon followed “At that time, the priority was on saving what remained

by Down House Farm on the Dorset coast, bequeathed by RC of the coast deemed ‘pristine and worthy of protection’,” Sherriff, author of Journey’s End. Lundy Island, the dramatic explains Phil Dyke, the Trust’s coast and marine adviser.

“Planning regulations weren’t providing adequate protection, granite rock in the spot where the Bristol Channel meets the Atlantic, was another early acquisition. and development was spreading largely unchecked. The These days the Neptune brief can be wider, with Phil survey identified 875 miles of coast at risk of development.” pointing to the Trust’s purchase of Durham’s polluted Black The first site bought under the Neptune banner was the Beaches, an area of coastline “degraded” by decades of beautiful Whiteford Burrows, an area of tall, wind-blown mining and now reclaimed for walkers and cyclists. But sand dunes famed for its flora, on the Gower Peninsula in acquisitions are made on a reactive basis, rather than the South Wales. The Peninsula was the first place in the UK Trust maintaining a detailed shopping list. to be designated an Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty “We don’t actively chase land that is not on the market,” in 1956. It is now one of the “trophy” sites of the Neptune says Phil. “Bantham Beach in south Devon is a good example campaign. The purchase of Whiteford Burrows in 1965 was [which the Trust tried, but ultimately failed, to purchase in followed two years later by Rhossili Beach and Down. Rock 2014 after a £7m campaign]. Our interest was climbing and hang gliding are popular activities triggered when the owners put Bantham on the there. For walkers, a source of fascination lies in Above: Rhossili Bay market, rather than us going in cold and asking the reminder of the area’s smuggling past: remains and its three-milethem if they were thinking of selling.” Not every of shipwrecks and mysterious caves, some only long sandy beach 58 | APRIL/MAY 2015 discoverbritainmag.com

60 | APRIL/MAY 2015 discoverbritainmag.com

Neptune Coast bit of land is suitable, he adds. “When a potential area comes up, we always ask ourselves why the National Trust should own it. Is the threat so great that only the Trust can save it?”

For years the case for the protection of the environment seems to have been fully accepted at central government level and has been buttressed by powerful legislation. Fifty years on, though, the latest Treasury’s “presumption in favour of planning” changes could be said to be threatening to wind the clock back to the immediate post-war years.

According to Phil: “The prospect of a further relaxation in land-use planning laws could lead to a re-emergence of development pressure. While we need to be mindful of the “new” challenge of climate change, we can’t take our eyes off the ball in terms of the old threats of urban sprawl and development in the wrong places.”

Climate change and rising sea levels are now also long term concerns, and the Trust’s unique position in terms of the extent of its holdings means it has a lead role in strategic planning for their potential impact.

“There are places where these issues pose an increasing threat to infrastructure, habitats, historic structures and communities,” says Phil. “Our instinct has been to protect these sites with hard defences, which are limited in their effectiveness and increasingly prone to failure.”

ALAMY; NATIONAL TRUST IMAGES/JOE CORNISH/JOHN MILLER/IAN WARD; NATIONAL TRUST IMAGES/SOLENT NEWS AND PHOTOGRAPHY AGENCY

“When a potential area comes up, we always ask ourselves why the National Trust should own it.”

The future, outlined in the Trust’s Shifting Shores report, might involve resorting to more adaptive natural processes, with less money spent on the maintenance of sea defences. In some cases, proposals for natural inundation of the coast have proved controversial. In other areas, such as the Trust-owned land at Birling Gap near Beachy Head in East Sussex, erosion of the cliff side seems to be happening at an unstoppable rate.

Whatever the future may hold, this year the emphasis is on celebrating the diversity of opportunities the coastline offers, whether it be a gentle walk along a beach or cliff top, or something more energetic following one of the Trust’s coastal cycling, running or canoe trails.

There’s more to see at Dover, too. Phil outlines how the Trust ran a successful public appeal recently to acquire the “missing link” of a sliver of cliff top in front of the lighthouse.

“We’ve improved the state of the land, broadening our conservation management to create new wildlife habitats.

We also found an underground shelter which housed soldiers manning the gun battery in the Second World War, and uncovered two archaeologically significant sound mirrors.”

These features, so important in the development of early radar technology, will be open to visitors for the first time this spring.

Above, right: Phil Dyke, National The White Cliffs may date back to our Trust coast and earliest national consciousness, but it marine adviser. hasn’t lost its capacity for surprise and Opposite: The Trust delight. And, saved by the Neptune also looks after the Coastline Campaign, it will survive to Giant’s Causeway, Northern Ireland give unspoilt pleasure in the future. ■

FURTHER READING The National Trust Book of the Coast, by Clare Gogerty, celebrates 50 years of the Neptune Coastline Campaign, outlining the massive diversity of the UK coast. From the dunes of Northumberland to the secluded coves of Cornwall and Dover’s White Cliffs, it describes coastal walks, wildlife and history.

Coastlines: The Story of Our Shore,

by Patrick Barkham (published by Granta) tells the story of the 742 miles of Neptune coastline through a series of walks, with evocative descriptions of nature and reflections on the long, and ongoing, battle to protect Britain’s coastline from exploitation by commercial interests.

Both of these titles are available at www.shop.nationaltrust.org.uk

discoverbritainmag.com APRIL/MAY 2015 | 61

Slug

Norfolk’s Appleton Water Tower sleeps up to four people 62 | APRIL/MAY 2015 discoverbritainmag.com

W

ith so many ancient castles, grand stately homes and royal residences dotted across Britain, there has always been a danger of the country’s smaller historic properties being overlooked when it comes to conservation. They chart architectural and social history yet are unviable as visitor attractions due to their diminutive size. This was where the Landmark Trust’s founder devised an alternative solution for salvation.

It was John Smith, a philanthropist who cared deeply about history and heritage, who would propel smaller properties into the limelight and out of the shadows of their grand stately counterparts. He decided that a body was required to tackle cases that were, as he put it, too desperate, troublesome or unfashionable for anyone else. So he established the Landmark Trust in 1965 to do just that.

“Smith’s brainwave was that maybe people would like to pay to stay in smaller historic buildings that would give them a new use when otherwise they might not have survived,” says Landmark Trust historian, Caroline Stanford.

It was this idea that would see Smith and his wife travel across the country searching for suitable places to buy that could be converted into holiday lets. However, it wasn’t just size that mattered. Smith set out three main criteria that would need to be met before dipping into his trust fund: the buildings would have to be significant in some way (be it historically, architecturally or culturally), they would have to be at risk, and they would have to be somewhere that people would want to stay.

The first property that ticked all the boxes on Smith’s list was Church Cottage in Wales.

“The cottage was built for the caretaker of a 19th-century church,” says Caroline. “It’s a poignant site today as the church fell into disrepair and has now been demolished.

But, because of John Smith’s intervention, the cottage is still there.”

The little two-bedroom home now offers guests a wonderful setting for a holiday near the village of Llandygwydd in the heart of Wales, surrounded by hills, woods and farmland.

Smith would go on to acquire a number of different properties all over Britain until he retired as head of the Trust in 1990. Today, the Trust is run as a charity and continues to protect buildings at risk, with around 200 properties now under its care in Britain as well as several in Europe.

“We’re looking for new properties all the time and typically complete two or three new projects each year,” says Caroline. “We could be assessing 10 to 12 properties at any one time, but only two or three will be taken to completion.”

From buildings developed by renowned architects and designers such as Charles Rennie Mackintosh, to water towers, coastal defence forts and garden follies, there’s no shortage of choice of places with character for those looking for a Landmark getaway.

One of the Trust’s more unusual and unmistakeable properties, The Pineapple, was constructed for the 4th earl of Dunmore after he served as Governor of Virginia in the 18th century. It was perhaps the tradition of Virginia sailors to announce their return home by placing a pineapple on their gateposts that gave Lord Dunmore the inspiration for his rather eccentric summerhouse, built on his return to Britain.

This May marks the 50th anniversary of the Trust and, to celebrate, a range of open days will be held allowing people to visit a number of the properties to help them get a sense for the Trust’s work, even if they’ve never stayed in a Landmark.

“We’re opening 25 buildings to put everyone within 50 miles of an open Landmark,” says Caroline. “Just outside Edinburgh we’re opening College Hill House, next door to Rosslyn Chapel, which featured in The Da Vinci Code.

The house was the inn, from the 18th century onwards, for writers and travellers making pilgrimage to the chapel.”

Elsewhere in the country, West Blockhouse in Pembrokeshire will also be opening to the public. Perched on a promontory overlooking the sea, this 19th-century fort will be a great place to explore if you are interested in military architecture, or even if you’re just looking for a spectacular coastal spot to visit.

Alton Station in Staffordshire is another Landmark that will be included within the open day scheme. This pretty, Italianate Victorian railway station fell into disuse after the

Landmark For 50 years the Landmark Trust has been saving smaller, noteworthy historic properties and turning them into unique and quirky holiday lets for everyone’s enjoyment

occasion

WORDS ANGHARAD MORAN

discoverbritainmag.com APRIL/MAY 2015 | 63

Slug

Clockwise from top left: The Pineapple; Church Cottage and its cosy interior; Martello Tower and its bedroom

64 | APRIL/MAY 2015 discoverbritainmag.com

Landmark Trust

Top left: Room for railway line closed. Thanks to the two at Clavell Tower.

Trust, up to eight people can now Top right: Dorset’s spend the night here, once again Clavell Tower. making use of the stationmaster’s Right: Warwickshire’s house and the waiting room where the Lengthman’s Cottage walls are emblazoned with the colours sleeps up to four of the railway company that once serviced the station.

As well as allowing visitors to take a look around the properties, the Trust’s open days will also include a range of community events and music group performances for people to enjoy. Five Landmarks will also be gaining the addition of an Antony Gormley sculpture as part of the artist’s ‘Land’ art installation to celebrate the Trust’s anniversary.

From 16 May, Suffolk’s Martello Tower, Dorset’s Clavell Tower, Warwickshire’s Lengthman’s Cottage, Lundy island in the Bristol Channel and Saddell Bay in Scotland will all be acquiring one of Gormley’s works, which have been conceived in response to each of these locations.

“We wanted to do something for our 50th that was available for everyone,” Caroline explains. “We were aware of Antony’s work and approached him – he has coincidentally stayed in Saddell Castle, which has become one of the sites.

It is something he’s had in mind for years: the idea of doing an installation within the British landscape. He’s known for his coastal and city installations, but he’s never done a national installation before.”

A

s well as the anniversary celebrations, this year will also see two new Landmarks opening their doors to guests. The first is set to be Belmont, an 18th-century maritime villa in Lyme Regis, which is due to open in the autumn. The house will be restored to how it would have been when it was occupied by Eleanor Coade, an 18th-century businesswoman who created a form of artificial stone used around the world for statues, tombstones and architectural embellishments.

“She convinced the world that her artificial stone was better than natural stone,” says Caroline. “Her work is

Five Landmarks will be gaining an Antony Gormley sculpture as part of the artist’s ‘Land’ art installation to celebrate the Trust’s 50th anniversary extremely high quality. It was a gap in the market as people wanted to make Classical buildings more interesting, but it was too expensive to do so in stone, and plaster was too soft. It was Eleanor who cracked it and came up with an alternative. Her’s is a pretty amazing story, that this single woman could have had such an effect on architectural history across the world.”

Eleanor’s work can be viewed at Belmont as the front elevation is encrusted with her wares, but the property’s historical interest doesn’t stop there. Belmont was also the home of John Fowles, author of The French Lieutenant’s Woman, from 1968 to 2005. “He put the finishing touches to discoverbritainmag.com APRIL/MAY 2015 | 65

Landmark Trust Medieval appeal Learn more about the Landmark Trust’s latest appeal and how you can help Regarded by some as one of the finest examples of a medieval house in Wales, Llwyn Celyn is a Grade I-listed 15thcentury property located in Monmouthshire. The house has been badly affected by damp and decay over the years and currently stands shrouded in scaffolding.

It is in desperate need of conservation efforts to preserve its historic structure and the Landmark Trust has launched an appeal in its anniversary year to try and save Llwyn Celyn for future generations.

The project is a huge undertaking due to the amount of work involved, which has been estimated at around £4.2m. Extensive repairs and alterations will need to be carried out in order to create a new Landmark capable of sleeping up to eight people in the main house, which was originally built as a threebay hall. Meanwhile, the surrounding historic barns will be used as a space for the local community.

The property has hardly changed since the 17th century and it is a perfect example of the Trust’s core work. “It’s what keeps us motivated, in that we’re able to save incredibly fragile, endangered buildings such as Llwyn Celyn,” says Caroline.

To find out more about the appeal, visit www. landmarktrust.org.uk

Above: Llwyn Celyn the book at Belmont,” under scaffolding.

Caroline explains.

Right: Antony “The Trust will also Gormley’s ‘Land’ celebrate his time sculpture takes shape at the house with a collection of books available to guests, celebrating his works and interests.”

Fowles’s writing room will become the main drawing room for visitors and will include a writing desk for those who feel similarly inspired to put pen to paper as they admire the view overlooking the Cobb.

T

he second property due to open this year is St Edward’s Presbytery in Ramsgate, Kent.

Built by Victorian architect Augustus Pugin, famous for designing the interiors of the Palace of Westminster, St Edward’s formed part of his plan to create the perfect community for his family.

Pugin constructed his family home in the form of The Grange in 1844 (acquired by the Trust in 1997) followed by a church and St Edward’s Presbytery. It was here that the architect spent his last days, dying at the age of 40 in 1852. His wife, Jane, would go on to live in the Presbytery following her husband’s death, and it was also where Pugin’s son, Edward, would continue his father’s practice.

Every property holds it’s own fascinating history, and the Trust provides guests with a ‘history bible’, allowing them to discover the stories behind their holiday let. Be it a cottage, water tower, lighthouse or pineapple, it is thanks to John Smith and the continued work of the Landmark Trust

66 | APRIL/MAY 2015 discoverbritainmag.com

that properties which are small in scale, but not in significance, are no longer eclipsed by their more illustious cousins.

“Smaller spaces are just as important as grand spaces,” says Caroline. “Human life is incredibly diverse and has been throughout history. It would be unrepresentative if we just focussed on saving grand mansions.

“There’s so much texture to human activity. What Landmark Trust is able to do is to preserve and protect that wider texture, but also to give everybody a chance to live in it and experience it for themselves.

“It’s not about being taken around somewhere with a guide, but to live there from dawn to dusk – and after dark! It helps people to tune into the past and to take care of all the wonderful treasures we have.” ■ For more information about the Trust, visit www.landmarktrust.org.uk

68 | APRIL/MAY 2015 discoverbritainmag.com

L E G A C Y

O F

OCCUPATION The Channel Islands were the only part of Great Britain to be occupied by German troops during the Second World War. Physically and mentally, Jersey, Guernsey and Alderney retain the painful memories, 70 years after the liberation WORDS DAVID TAYLOR

JERSEY: A MODEL OCCUPATION? Although the occupation of the Channel Islands had value as Nazi propaganda, and the presence of German troops on British soil was a blow to Allied morale, the British government deemed them to have little strategic importance.

It was unlikely Germany could use them as a springboard to attack mainland Britain, and so the islands were demilitarised and left to be invaded.

When they did land, the Nazis undertook a so-called “model occupation”, ostensibly more tolerant than the regime meted out to mainland Europe, and designed to respect the islands’ heritage. Yet while the gun emplacements mounted atop Mont Orgeuil Castle in Jersey display a rare sensitivity to the original medieval architecture, the fact is they were built by starving Russian PoWs held in appalling conditions in the slave camps on the island.

Many in the German troops saw the Channel Islands as a softer option than the gruelling challenges of the Eastern front – there are photos of soldiers sunning themselves on the beaches at St Brelade’s Bay, and lasting relationships were formed with islanders. Nevertheless, the regime ground the territory under an iron heel.

Liberties were curtailed, the use of radios was banned, curfews were put in place, and Jews and other foreign nationals were deported to prison and worse. As the war progressed and supplies to the islands were choked off, starvation became a real possibility.

Winston Churchill privately berated the islanders for not putting up as much resistance to the occupying forces as they might have done. To an appeal to have Red Cross parcels delivered, it’s not certain whether Churchill’s curt response of “Let them starve” was directed at the Wehrmacht or the islanders themselves. Eventually, however, the Red Cross ship SS Vega was permitted to deliver aid and, to the credit of the German officers, it was not simply hoarded to feed the troops, but

Below: German distributed amongst the civilians.

Observation Tower Of all the Channel Islands, Jersey on Guernsey’s has done the most to preserve its south coast cliffs. wartime history. The underground Opposite: German hospital carved by the Germans into HQ on Guernsey the hillside at St Lawrence is now the Jersey War Tunnels, an interactive tour through the history of occupation, and the restored Underground Command Bunker at Noirmont Point gives a glimpse of the German military war machine in action. The Jersey Museum in St Helier sits beside the Pomme D’Or Hotel, where the British flag was raised in 1945 amidst much celebration, and houses valuable documents and records from throughout Jersey’s history.

GUERNSEY: FIRST TO FALL The first of the Channel Islands to fall, Guernsey’s occupation was preceded by one of those absurd military muddles you really couldn’t make up. Although the Germans had been assured there would be no opposition when they landed,

discoverbritainmag.com APRIL/MAY 2015 | 69

Channel Islands at War

pre-existing fortifications which the Nazis could commandeer as observation towers and gun turrets, including Castle Cornet with its imposing position safeguarding St Peter Port harbour. The new German harbourmaster installed himself in what is now the Ship and Crown pub on the esplanade, although he wasn’t the first notorious resident of the former hotel. When the French novelist Victor Hugo took his family into political exile in Guernsey, he paid for rooms at the Ship and Crown for his mistress, the freespirited actress Juliette Drouet, before finding her a more permanent (and convenient) residence near his home in 38 Rue Hauteville.

There he lived for 15 years and it is now a museum celebrating the author’s life.

Many of the former military sites on Guernsey are still they remained wary. When they spied what they suspected in private hands and unrestored, which often gives a more was a military convoy making its way along the harbour accurate view of life during the occupation. Unlike the quayside on 28 June 1940, it was subjected to a sustained modern museum now housed in the underground military aerial bombardment for almost an hour. The wholescale hospital at Jersey, the similar facility in Guernsey is a dank annihilation of several truckloads of tomatoes might have network of vaulted chambers where the constant seepage of been a source of amusement had it not also led to the water has formed ghostly limestone stalactites hanging from needless deaths of 25 civilians. the ceilings. It’s more like the set for a horror film than a When the Germans eventually did seize control of St Peter place of healing – indeed a group of students from Port two days later, it led to the taking of what Top left: La Corbière the local college once filmed a horror movie down must have been a searing image in the eyes of not Radio Tower, Jersey, there, much to the bemusement of the owners. only local citizens but people right across mainland built by the Germans.

More accommodating is the former Naval Britain: a German platoon goose-stepping past the Top right: German Signals Headquarters for the Channel Islands, Lloyds Bank building in the centre of the town.

Underground which was saved from dereliction by serving for As with Jersey, Guernsey offered a number of Hospital, Guernsey

OF ALL THE CHANNEL ISLANDS, JERSEY HAS DONE THE MOST TO PRESERVE ITS WARTIME HISTORY

discoverbritainmag.com APRIL/MAY 2015 | 71

Channel Islands at War Heroes & victims One of the martial laws imposed by the German occupiers was the necessity for all islanders to carry photographic ID cards. However, out of this indignity has come a treasure trove of records that give a candid snapshot of life in wartime.

Among the files are the papers of Albert Bedane, a French-born, naturalised British masseur in Jersey whose services proved popular with the troops.

Yet while the German officers were having their stresses pummelled away, they little suspected Albert was hiding a Jewish woman, Mary Richardson, in the cellar of his home.

Nor did they know that he was aiding escapees from the island’s Russian slave camps. Albert survived the war, dying in 1980 at the ripe old age of 87. In 2010 he was posthumously named a British Hero of the Holocaust.

Less happy was the outcome of the activities of Louisa Gould, who hid a Russian escapee in her farmhouse. When two of her neighbours informed on her, an illegal radio and a Russian dictionary were found on her property.

This led to Louisa and her brother Harold’s deportation, first to France, then Germany. Harold survived the concentration camp at Belsen but Louisa died in Ravensbrück‘s gas chambers.

Jersey Heritage has now computerised the islanders’ records, accessible at the Jersey Archive at St Helier, soon to appear also on www.ancestry.co.uk

many years as the meeting place for the Boy Scouts in St Peter Port. This was the last German signals HQ operational in the war, sending its final message on 9 May 1945. The bunker has been fully restored to its original condition and includes many genuine communication devices such as an Enigma coder. Its authenticity was confirmed by its wartime commander, Willi Hagedorn, who returned to Guernsey to advise members of the Channel Islands Occupation Society about life during the war. He confided that he’d hidden his service pistol in the bunker, only to realise when he was leaving the island that he had forgotten where he’d stashed it. It was eventually unearthed after his return to Germany and is now displayed in the bunker.

The German Occupation Museum at Le Houards began life as a collection of memorabilia gathered by schoolboy Richard Heaume but has now been expanded into a treasure trove of period clothing and household items, weaponry and vehicles.

life, George became the only native-born islander to be elected President, and he resides on Alderney to this day.

Alderney was the only Channel Island to be fully evacuated during the war, barring a handful of individuals left behind to act as custodians. The Germans literally overran the island, moving into family homes and ALDERNEY: FORTRESS ISLAND distributing the contents amongst themselves.

On 23 June 1940, a 14-year-old schoolboy, This led to utter chaos when the George Baron, ran from the Top: German soldiers islanders returned after liberation, harbour wall on Braye Bay in photograph England’s with arguments erupting over Alderney up the hill to the town coast from the Channel furniture that had been moved of St Annes with the message Islands. Above: Fort into different houses by the troops. that the boats to evacuate the Tourgis, built 1855, is The solution was to stack all the islanders had arrived. Later in located on Alderney

72 | APRIL/MAY 2015 discoverbritainmag.com

Slug

74 | APRIL/MAY 2015 discoverbritainmag.com

Channel Islands at War

VISITING THE ISLANDS

furniture in the centre of town and allow people to reclaim it.

As with Jersey and Guernsey, the Nazis took advantage of existing fortifications on which to build their watchtowers and gun emplacements, but with Alderney they were spoilt for choice. As the closest of the islands to France, it had served historically as a lookout over traffic sailing into the English Channel. Work on the first British fort, Essex Castle, was begun by Henry VIII in 1546, but he was only following in the footsteps of the Romans, who had built a small fortification at The Nunnery in around 4AD. In 1842, Queen Victoria built a line of fortresses along the entire flank of the island facing the French naval shipyards at Cherbourg. The Germans took full advantage of the Victorian engineering, augmenting the existing forts with concrete bunkers and laying trenches that could connect strategic positions in the event of attack.

Alderney was also the only part of Britain to house SS concentration camps, the most notorious being the Jewish forced labour camp at Lager Sylt. The camp itself has been razed, although you can find traces of the original buildings if you know where to look. The house that was built for the camp Kommandant remains, but it was moved to the other side of the island after the war and now serves as a private home.

Today, many of the forts and strongholds on Alderney have fallen into ruin and been overtaken by nature.

However, because there is no law of trespass on the island, you are free to explore them – although you should take care, because while the stonework is as sturdy as ever, the floors and ceilings have fallen prey to the elements. Indeed, care must be taken when exploring the wilder areas of the island, as bunkers and mortar holes have become overrun with bracken and form pitfalls for ramblers.

For all three islands, the ‘model occupation’ caused heartache, hardship and disruption. Seventy years may have softened and decayed the signs of an enemy presence but the joy of the liberation lives on and gives even a new generation of islanders cause for celebration. ■

IWM; ALAMY; GETTY IMAGES/HARRY SHEPHERD; IMAGES COURTESY OF VISITGUERNSEY; DANNY EVANS (JERSEY TOURISM)

Above: Allied soldiers in Jersey shortly after its liberation. Opposite: Liberation Day festival cavalcade, Guernsey, 2010

To mark the 70th anniversary of the Occupation, the playful rivalry between Jersey and Guernsey has been set aside for the Heritage Festival, a month-long joint celebration that includes guided tours and cruises, military reenactments, concerts and film screenings, and other special events.

It also offers a rare opportunity to visit a number of historical sites not generally open to the public, as well as to enjoy the unique wildlife, cuisine and ambience of the islands.

The Heritage Festival lasts from 3 April to 11 May and a full calendar of events is available at www. visitchannelislands.com

GETTING THERE One-way flights with Aurigny from Guernsey to Jersey start from £41. Aurigny also offers daily flights from Gatwick, Stansted and Southampton to Alderney from £96pp return. www.aurigny.com

STAYING THERE For anyone looking to further soak up the history of the Channel Islands, various forms of accommodation – unusual as well as conventional – are available.

Alderney Pull up the drawbridge in your own Victorian fortress. Fort Clonque sleeps up to 13 people and can be booked through The Landmark Trust, but be warned: the causeway linking the fort to the island is impassable at high tide. www.landmarktrust.org.uk

Jersey Stay in The Radio Tower, a fully refurbished six-storey German observation bunker on the clifftops at Corbiere, or in Barge Aground, a boat-

shaped seaside folly at St Ouen’s Bay that formerly served as a recreation centre for German troops. Each of these facilities sleeps up to 6. www.jerseyheritage.org St Brelade’s Bay Hotel has rooms from £140 prpn bed & breakfast based on two people sharing a standard room or from £186 for a sea view. Visit www. stbreladesbayhotel.com

Guernsey The Old Government House Hotel (www.theoghhotel) at St Peter Port was used as the General Staff Headquarters for the German army during the occupation. It’s the island’s only five-star hotel and if you can collar the manager, Andrew Chantrell, he has a wealth of stories about life in the hotel during the war years.

For the Heritage Festival, a package with special added extras is available from £219 prpn, based on two adults sharing a Classic Double Room between 3 April and 11 May 2015. Minimum two-night stay. Visit www. theoghhotel.com

Special package Channel Islands Direct is offering a seven-night Channel Islands Heritage Festival break to Jersey and Guernsey from £569 per person travelling by sea from Poole, or from £647 per person by air from London Gatwick. Includes three nights’ accommodation in Guernsey’s five star Old Government House Hotel and four nights’ in Jersey’s Pomme D’Or, which sits in the heart of St Helier overlooking Liberation Square, and is where the Union Flag was raised on Liberation Day. A return boat trip to the historic islands of either Herm or Sark can be added from £15pp. The package includes inter-island travel. www. channelislandsdirect.co.uk; tel: 08444 937 486

INFORMATION www.visitchannelislands.com www.visitguernsey.com www.jersey.com

discoverbritainmag.com APRIL/MAY 2015 | 75

Guernsey’s National Library The centre for Local history and Genealogy, offering an expert research service at competitive rates. Explore our extensive collection of books, maps, prints, newspapers and photographs in person.

The Priaulx Library, Candie Road, St. Peter Port, Guernsey GY1 1UG www.priaulxlibrary.co.uk

ESCAPE

INSPIRATION FOR DAYS OUT AND WEEKEND BREAKS IN BRITAIN

GETTY IMAGES

80

Days Out: In the 50th year of the Pennine Way, why not venture out on this National Trail

discoverbritainmag.com APRIL/MAY 2015 | 77

Escape | Days Out

MANCHESTER

Welcome HOME, a new arts venue for the North comprising multiple cinemas, theatres, education facilities plus exhibition and events space

E

xpect a visual treat at HOME, Manchester’s vibrant new cultural destination which combines the imagination of two city theatre companies, Cornerhouse and Library Theatre Company, enabling the arts to be experienced by all through education and participation.

At a cost of £25m, the venue will open in May, and hopes to engage a broader range of people in the arts, and to work to develop young people’s potential within the sector. The purpose-built centre features a 500-seat theatre, a 150-seat flexible theatre, gallery space, five cinema screens, digital production and broadcast facilities, a café bar and restaurant. It is hoped that this community hub will encourage the public to explore their creative skills, and experience the work of others, both amateur and professional.

The contemporary visual arts programme consists of at least three new major artist commissions each year, as well as group exhibitions. Film fans can expect a host of festivals, regular screenings of an independent and international flavour. And on the stage there’s set to be a contemporary and

78 | APRIL/MAY 2015 discoverbritainmag.com

exploratory approach to the productions.

HOME will form the cultural heart of the £500m First Street regeneration project off Whitworth Street West in Manchester city centre. With some big names involved in the project, patrons include film director Danny Boyle, National Theatre artistic director Nicholas Hytner, actress Suranne Jones, playwright and poet Jackie Kay MBE, artists Rosa Barba and Phil Collins, filmmaker Asif Kapadia and the actress and author Meera Syal MBE. Venue highlights of the season include the UK première of La Mélancolie des Dragons by HOME’s 2015 international guest artist, Philippe Quesne, and a major new exhibition entitled I must first apologise… from Beirut-based artists Joana Hadjithomas and Khalil Joreige, which explores the history of online spam and scamming through film, sculpture, photography and installation.

Theatre companies including Young Vic, Kneehigh and the Rosie Kay Dance Company will take to the stage to entertain in their own inimitable way, hopefully inspiring a new generation to follow suit. ■

Top left: Working impression of HOME. Top right: Performance space.

Above: Expect some unusual visuals

Getting there: By car, HOME is situated at the First Street Development, just off Whitworth Street West, and very close to Oxford Road and Castlefield. By train, Deansgate and Manchester Oxford Road are equidistant, about a 10-minute walk. Manchester Piccadilly is around a 15-minute walk from HOME. More information: HOME, 2 Tony Wilson Place, First Street, Manchester M15 4FN. Tel: 0161 228 7621. www. homemcr.org

PIERRE GROSBOIS; MECANOO

HOME

Escape | Days Out

National Videogame Arcade HOCKLEY, NOTTINGHAM

Return to the halcyon days of videogame entertainment at the world’s first cultural centre dedicated to the pastime, newly opened in Nottingham

ASH BIRD

I

f you think that video games cannot be old enough to warrant their own museum, think again. The National Videogame Arcade, the world’s first cultural centre for the hobby, opens its doors in Nottingham on 28 March, with a mission to promote the cultural, economic, educational and social benefits of gaming.

Its prime ambition is to inspire and empower games-makers (and players) of all ages and backgrounds and to celebrate the UK’s unique heritage as a world-leading innovator in video game development.

Alongside the thrills of yesteryear’s technology will be themed quarterly exhibitions illuminating both game-making practice and player experience, as well as a permanent exhibition of more than 12,000 nostalgic objects selected from the National Videogame Archive, a resource connected to the Science Museum. There’s also a floor dedicated to education, where students of all ages will be able to get some hands-on experience of just what goes into

creating that inspired videogame hit.

At a cost of £2.5m, the Arcade has been created

by GameCity, an organisation committed to the worldwide promotion of the humble videogame, and whose annual festival, held in Nottingham, has helped propel this project forward. Housed in the former home of The Midland Group, once an important centre for the visual arts, the Arcade is a welcome addition to the Creative Quarter in the Hockley district. Above all, it is hoped that any ‘geeky’ perceptions of videogaming will change in light of appreciation for their accessible, cultural, visionary and enduring value, made by those with diverse skills, ambitions and imaginations.

Here, under one roof, visitors will see the lightning speed of progress throughout the 20th century and onward, and catch a glimpse of the future of this addictive brand of entertainment.

One thing is certain for anyone eager to get their hands on the world’s first home console, the lure of the joystick may be overwhelming! ■

Above: Visitors will be captivated by the latest, and outdated, gaming technology

Getting there: By car, Nottingham is easily reached from the north and south via the M1 motorway. By train, a number of direct intercity services stop at Nottingham.

More information: National Videogame Arcade, Carlton Street, Nottingham. www.gamecity.org

discoverbritainmag.com APRIL/MAY 2015 | 79

Escape | Days Out

The Pennine Way

As it can take the seasoned walker over two weeks to walk the entire trail, which is often challenging, with long climbs and changeable weather, here are five highlights of the Pennine Way:

To celebrate the 50th anniversary of the official opening of the Pennine Way, pull on your walking boots and hit the trail

CALDER VALLEY TO ICKORNSHAW Via Heptonstall Moor, Bronte Country and Ickornshaw Moor 16 miles (26 km)

NORTHERN ENGLAND

T

he first of the 15 National Trail footpaths to be established in England and Wales, the 268-mile Pennine Way opened on 24 April 1965, following relentless campaigning by rambler and journalist Tom Stephenson. The route winds its way from Edale in Derbyshire to Kirk Yetholm in the Scottish Borders, and is considered one of the nation’s toughest long distance walks.

From the Peak District through the Yorkshire Dales, North Pennines AONB and Northumberland National Park, the Way covers unspoilt swathes of countryside, natural wonders and historic landmarks. Running like an artery from the heart to the head of Britain, it was opened in response to the public’s growing awareness, post-Second World War, of preserving areas of wilderness for future generations.

Following the devastation of the war years, Britain invested in redevelopment, pushing into the countryside to build homes and expand industry. The establishment of national parks, Areas of Outstanding Natural Beauty, and National Trails, formerly known as Long Distance Routes, has ensured that these “special” areas of the country remain.

At 50 years old, the Pennine Way will be celebrating its anniversary in style throughout 2015 with a number of events planned along the length of the route.

Renowned fell walker Alfred Wainwright published his own guides to the Way in 1966 and 1985, the latter recently revised. Wainwright on the Pennine Way, published by Frances Lincoln, £25, features new images by acclaimed photographer Derry Brabbs.

80 | APRIL/MAY 2015 discoverbritainmag.com

Despite a few potential routefinding blind spots, this is a relatively undemanding stretch. You’re in Bronte Country, a highlight of which is Top Withens, reputedly the inspiration for Emily Bronte’s Wuthering Heights. All that remains is the roofless old house, with its views across the Worth Valley.

Another Wuthering Heights feature is the 17th-century Ponden Hall. Easily accessed from the Way this B&B is the perfect place for walkers to stop for rest and refreshment. The Way climbs from the Calder Valley, over Heptonstall Moor, back to the literary landscapes of Bronte Country and up again onto the bleaker Ickornshaw Moor, passing a few reservoirs en route.

a picturesque valley before a testing scramble by the spectacular falls of Cauldron Snout.

You may also like to visit Forest-in-Teesdale or Langdon Beck, which are just off route.

GREENHEAD TO BELLINGHAM Via Hadrian’s Wall, Wark Forest and Shitlington Crag - 22 miles (35km)

JOHN MORRISON, DAVID SPEIGHT/ALAMY; NATURAL ENGLAND

MALHAM TO HORTON IN RIBBLESDALE 14.5 miles (23 km) Alfred Wainwright thought the limestone country around Malham ‘the best walking territory so far encountered along the Pennine Way’. You’re treated to majestic Malham Cove and Malham Tarn before the curious-looking lump of Pen-y-Ghent, the highest point on the Way so far. Expect two stiff sustained climbs, in the deceptively tough Fountains Fell and Pen-y-Ghent. The latter is certainly worth it for the views. Wainwright described the descent to Horton in Ribblesdale as ‘very, very good’, but some will find it interminable.

The path is good but don’t stray too far off the beaten track as there are a few sinkholes and mineshafts on Fountains Fell.

MIDDLETON-IN-TEESDALE TO DUFTON High Force, Cauldron Snout & High Cup 21 miles (34km) This memorable stretch incorporates three great waterfalls, and includes High Cup as its climax, arguably the best sight along the entire route. The Way starts with a leisurely amble through flower-strewn meadows and beside the River Tees. ‘A walk of near perfection,’ said Wainwright. Upper Teesdale ushers you through

Expect a physical challenge. The Way encounters Hadrian’s Wall for eight miles (12.8km), including its most dramatic stretches.

Wainwright thought the Way should end here, with Hadrian’s Wall providing a dramatic climax. At Rapishaw Gap you break from the stones and crowds towards the silent Wark Forest, then farmland and a little moorland.

However, the end of this leg, along the road to Bellingham, is tortuous. Do note that the only facilities are housed at Once Brewed, a pub and youth hostel, a slight detour off the Way. If you fancy extending your visit to learn more about Hadrian’s Wall, head to Housesteads Roman Fort, a mile (1.6km) off route.

WYNDY GYLE TO KIRK YETHOLM Past the Cheviot and over the Schill 13 miles (21 km) The final push is peppered with more big hills, some very strong winds and a few sneaky bogs. There are some choices to make: firstly whether to detour to the top of the Cheviot and back, and secondly whether to take the higher or lower routes for the final descent. The Way leaves England and enters Scotland, and for weary walkers who have spent a good fortnight on the trail, the sight of Kirk Yetholm will be a blessing. A drink at the Border Hotel is perhaps the only way to celebrate. ■

Getting there: Public transport is recommended for those planning more than a day’s walk; the southerly point of the trail is at Edale, Derbyshire, and Kirk Yetholm lies in the Scottish Borders, with several options for short stay parking in towns and villages near the route. By train, both ends of the Pennine Way are accessible. Edale station is a short walk from the village centre, where the Way begins. Trains from Manchester and Sheffield stop at Edale. At the northern end of the trail, Kirk Yetholm has a bus service to Kelso (35 minutes).

Connections can be made onwards from Kelso and to pick up rail services at historic Berwickupon-Tweed.

More information: www.nationaltrail. co.uk/pennine-way Top left: Journalist Tom Stephenson devised the Pennine Way in the 1930s.

Top right: Peak of Pen-y-Ghent, Ribblesdale.

Opposite: Jacob’s Ladder, near Edale

discoverbritainmag.com APRIL/MAY 2015 | 81

Escape | Weekend Away

JOHN FROST’S PISTOLS

Newport Museum & Art Gallery These weapons recall the uprising of 4 November 1839 when 4,000 men marched through the city to demand that the ‘People’s Charter’ be made law, enabling every man over 21 the right to vote. The protest was led by former Newport mayor John Frost who, along with fellow ‘Chartists’, vowed to bring about change following Parliament’s rejection in 1839. A gun battle broke out between the police and the rebels. Frost was captured and his pistols seized; at his trial he was sentenced to transportation. www.newport.gov.uk/heritage

Newport SOUTH WALES

Located just outside the Welsh capital, Newport is packed with heritage attractions from all eras

T

his cathedral city, the third largest in Wales, has been quietly strengthening its reputation as a cultural destination. Long before it fell under the world’s gaze for golf’s 2010 Ryder Cup and 2014’s Nato Summit, both held at the Celtic Manor Resort, work was ongoing to revitalise tired areas and create a centre for tourism.

Surrounded by the old coal mines of the region, there is much to learn about the industry at local museums, alongside notable Roman history, which can be discovered at the wellpreserved Roman Legion Museum at nearby Caerleon.

The 14th-century castle on the banks of the Usk has its own share of secrets. A skeletal section of curtain wall remains, the stonework dating slightly later to 1405 when it was rebuilt following attack by Welsh hero Owain Glyndwr. Architecture of a more modern era can be found at Tredegar House, a 17th-century red brick mansion cared for by the National Trust.

Visitors can experience flamboyant interiors and stroll around formal gardens. More exercise can be taken at RSPB Newport Wetlands Visitor Centre on the edge of the city. Alternatively, you can step up a gear at the Wales National Velodrome and cycle the same track as Olympic heroes past and present.

82 | APRIL/MAY 2015 discoverbritainmag.com

THE GILT ROOM

Tredegar House, Newport

Getting there: By car, Newport is easily accessible via the M4 motorway or A4042 via Abergavenny, or A40/ A449 from Monmouth.

By train, there are direct services from London Paddington and Birmingham; alternatively, catch a local or connecting service from Bristol Parkway.

More information: www.newport.gov.uk or www.visitwales.com

This 17th-century restoration mansion has interiors to match the flamboyance of its former owners. Follow the story of the Morgan family, whose 500-year ‘reign’ at Tredegar involved dabbling in the dark arts and hosting wild parties – this was no ordinary household. In the Gilt Room the opulence of the 17th century is revealed, floor to ceiling: just look up at the painting of The Triumph of Religion and Spirituality over Lust and Intemperance. Outside, the grounds blend gardens, parkland and woodland walks, and in the stables watch out for a most unusual guest: a Dalek! www.nationaltrust.org.uk/tredegar

ROMAN HOARD

National Roman Legion Museum, Caerleon Found in Llanvaches, near Newport, this spectacular hoard consists of 599 silver denarii (Roman coins) found hidden in a locally-made cooking pot, believed to have been the savings of a retired Roman soldier. A denarius was just over a day’s pay for a legionary soldier so this hoard is about two years’ salary. It is possible to view these treasures and many more at the museum, including mosaics, tombs and skeletons, and don’t miss a visit to the well-tended Roman garden. www.museumwales.ac.uk/roman 042 A4

Caerleon

Bettws

M4

Newport ROMAN BATHS

Caerleon Roman Fortress and Baths

NATIONAL TRUST IMAGES/ANDREAS VON EINSIEDEL; NEWPORT CITY COUNCIL

Duffryn

TRANSPORTER BRIDGE GONDOLA

Ri ve rU sk

Discover how the Roman army spent their leisure time at these incredibly well-preserved baths at Caerleon, just outside Newport. The Second Augustan Legion stationed here had among the best facilities of the age at this extensive base, where hard-working soldiers could unwind and bask in the warmth of their heated changing rooms, baths, covered exercise rooms and an open-air pool, for when the Welsh weather was bearable. www.cadw.wales.gov.uk

River Usk, Newport The gondola upon Newport’s Transporter Bridge, itself a feat of Edwardian engineering, can carry you across the Usk, just as it did thousands of commuters each day for many years after it opened in 1906. Others climbed the stairs and walked the gantry to save the halfpenny fare. Follow in their footsteps up the 177ft High Level Walkway, and visit the Motor House to see the engines which drive this rare bridge. www.fontb.org.uk

discoverbritainmag.com APRIL/MAY 2015 | 83

ESCAPE TO

WARWICKSHIRE

NIGEL FRANCIS/ROBERT HARDING

PLAN YOUR VISIT WITH OUR COMPREHENSIVE COUNTY GUIDE

88

Warwick Castle: Discover 1,000 years of history at this multi-faceted attraction discoverbritainmag.com APRIL/MAY 2015 | 85

ESCAPE TO Warwickshire Slug

IN FAIR WARWICKSHIRE

While avid theatre-goers will always flock here to see the works of Shakespeare brought to life, 2015 promises much more besides WORDS ANGHARAD MORAN

F

amously the home county of William Shakespeare, George Eliot and the sport of rugby, Warwickshire has a vast amount of history to be explored. Visitors are spoilt for choice when it comes to ideas for days out, with art galleries, stately homes and imposing castles to explore.

This year, Harvard House has been added to the collection of historic properties open to the public in Stratford-upon-Avon. Here, visitors can take the chance to learn more about the Elizabethan townhouse as well as

86 | APRIL/MAY 2015 discoverbritainmag.com

the plans for nearby New Place, the final home of William Shakespeare, currently closed for conservation work.

The Shakespeare Birthplace Trust will be developing New Place into an internationally significant site where visitors can discover more about the bard at the height of his success. The work is due to be completed in time to mark the 400th anniversary of Shakespeare’s death in April next year.

Elsewhere in the county, 2015 sees the Heritage Motor Centre expanding its public displays within a new building

opening in September, while the National Trust’s Upton House will be highlighting its Second World War history this year.

Those visiting Rugby are sure to get swept up in the excitement of the 2015 Rugby World Cup which will be held in the UK. A ‘Festival of Rugby’ will be taking place throughout the town in August and September this year.

With so much to see and do across the county, we’ve compiled a fantastic selection of places to visit, but where will you choose to go first? That is the question. www.shakespeares-england.co.uk

TRAVEL TIP

ROBERT HARDING

Visit in April for Stratford’s Literary Festival

The tranquil River Avon with the spire of Holy Trinity Church in the background, where William Shakespeare was christened and buried

discoverbritainmag.com APRIL/MAY 2015 | 87

ESCAPE TO Warwickshire

[CASTLE]

Warwick Castle

88 | APRIL/MAY 2015 discoverbritainmag.com

and gossip about their friends. With mannequins dotted throughout the rooms and a voiceover providing a backing track of pre-party chatter, the story of the castle and its former inhabitants is brought to life.

Away from the civilised interiors, visitors will find a stark reminder of the castle’s darker history and original purpose as they descend the narrow, dimly lit stairs into the old gaol. Once used to house prisoners taken at the Battle of Poitiers in 1356, a small windowless cell can be viewed where inmates would have been hung upside down by their ankles in stocks fixed to the thick stone walls. Even worse, a small grate in the floor reveals the cramped space where those felt to be in need of particularly harsh punishment would be left to live out their sentence.

In contrast to the dark gaol are the castle’s glorious gardens, originally created by Lancelot ‘Capability’ Brown in 1748. From the peacock topiary to an abundance of roses, the gardens are a peaceful setting that bely the castle’s turbulent history.

Tel: 0871 265 2000; www.warwick-castle.com

Top: Warwick’s mighty stronghold.

Inset: Knights in shining armour reside in the castle’s Great Hall

DON’T MISS The Porridge Pot in the Great Hall, said to have belonged to the legendary Anglo-Saxon giant, Guy of Warwick. The pot was held in the same esteem as King Arthur’s Round Table in the 14th century

MERLIN ENTERTAINMENTS

A

spiring knights and princesses will feel perfectly at home at Warwick Castle.

Owned by Merlin Entertainments, the castle has been represented as the perfect fairytale abode, with a princess’s tower, falconry displays, have-a-go archery and a rather grim dungeon. However, these are merely additions to the main attraction of the castle’s Great Hall and State Rooms. Stepping into the grand hall on a chilly day, the smoky scent of a lit fire welcomes visitors along with the glint of weaponry and armour that hang from the walls. Having been owned by Richard III and Henry VIII throughout its long history, the castle was eventually granted to the Greville family in 1604, who transformed it into a stately home.

Today, as visitors leave the Great Hall to venture further into the labyrinth of State Rooms, it becomes apparent that the castle is getting ready for a soirée hosted by Francis and Daisy Greville, Earl and Countess of Warwick. Gentlemen stand around smoking their pipes and discussing the topics of the day, while ladies in fine dresses embellished with lace and pearls recline on their chaises longue

[MUSEUM]

Rugby Football Museum

RUGBY BOROUGH COUNCIL; SHAKESPEARE’S ENGLAND

W

ith artefacts and memorabilia relating to the sport of rugby dating back over the past 160 years, this little museum is dedicated to the sport said to have been invented within the grounds of nearby Rugby School in 1823.

The museum is located inside the building that was originally used by William Gilbert to manufacture rugby balls in 1842 – a practice which Webb Ellis Ltd continues at the site to this day. The museum holds a fascinating collection of displays devoted to the game, its players and, of course, the ball itself. It is here that visitors can view some of the earliest examples of rugby balls and the original 1871 Webb Ellis Cup. It was William Webb Ellis who is said to have inadvertently created the sport by picking up the ball and running with it across the pitch during a game of football, while he was still a pupil at the local school. Far from discouraging this blatant disregard for the rules, Rugby School instead created a whole new set of rules that would go on to form the foundation for the internationally popular sport of today.

The museum offers a fascinating insight into local history and will be enticing visitors from around the world in the run up to the Rugby World Cup 2015, Right: Discover the which will be held across 13 venues in the UK. origins of a popular Tel: 01788 567 777; www.webb-ellis.com sport at the Rugby Football Museum

[CRUISE]

River Avon cruise

W

Those on board will be able to gain ith its timber-framed a leisurely view of some of the town’s collection of historic famous sites, including the Royal properties, counting Shakespeare’s Birthplace, Shakespeare Company theatres and Holy Trinity Church – where William Anne Hathaway’s Cottage and Hall’s Shakespeare was baptised in 1564 and Croft among their number, Stratfordburied in 1616 – as well as the area’s upon-Avon has plenty of places to visit. scenic countryside.

Over the summer months, though, Once back on dry land, the Butterfly the ribbon of river that eases its way Farm is a short stroll away from the through Stratford becomes just as riverbanks. Here, giant glasshouses much of a draw as the town’s historic hold a tropical environment filled with properties, with families picnicking in exotic flora and hundreds of species of the parks along the riverbanks or hiring colourful butterflies. rowing boats to join the bevy of swans Whether you go there to learn more out on the water. For those yet to master about the town’s history, the use of oars, or keen to or simply to look for avoid them altogether, it is Left: Take to the somewhere to spend a possible to step aboard one water to enjoy a sunny afternoon by the of the traditional Edwardian leisurely cruise in river, Stratford is a delight. passenger vessels that offer Edwardian style Tel: 01789 267 073; www. regular, 40-minute, scenic along the Avon avon-boating.co.uk tours along the river’s course. discoverbritainmag.com APRIL/MAY 2015 | 89

ESCAPE TO Warwickshire

[TOWN]

ROYAL LEAMINGTON SPA

promoted the benefits of the town’s spa waters in the Victorian period.

By the 1860s the popularity of spa towns had waned in favour of seaside resorts and all but one of Leamington’s bath houses had been forced to close down. However, Dr Jephson managed to form a consortium with local people in 1861 in order to save the Pump Rooms – now home to the Leamington Spa Art Gallery and Museum.

Following the Second World War, many of Leamington’s historic façades have been replaced, or else lost altogether, but it is still easy to see why the town has remained so popular over the centuries.

Tel: 01926 470 634; www.royal-leamington-spa.co.uk

[RESERVOIR]

[MILL]

Providing a bit of breathing space away from the hubbub of the county’s bustling towns, Draycote reservoir was originally completed in 1970 and today provides a popular spot for families to go walking, cycling, fishing, or bird watching. For those looking for more action out on the water and keen to learn a new skill, sailing and windsurfing lessons can also be arranged through the local sailing club.

This historic watermill still produces stone-ground flour, adopting processes that have been used for over 200 years.

It appeared in the 1978 BBC adaptation of George Eliot’s The Mill on the Floss.

Although still a working mill, Charlecote opens its doors to visitors on selected dates. The mill’s annual Milling Experience Weekend will take place on 11-12 April this year, providing a hands-on experience.

Tel: 01789 842 072; www.charlecotemill.co.uk

Draycote Water Park

90 | APRIL/MAY 2015 discoverbritainmag.com

Charlecote Mill

[TOWN]

George Eliot’s Nuneaton Born Mary Ann Evans in November 1819 at South Farm on Nuneaton’s Arbury Estate, George Eliot would later move to London and take the literary world by storm. Many of the settings for Eliot’s works are based on places she was familiar with in and around Nuneaton, and a self-guided tour is available for those keen to discover more about the author and follow in her footsteps.

BID LEAMINGTON/ © MISCHA HALLER 2012

T

he gleaming white façades of Leamington’s buildings hark back to the town’s height of popularity during the early 19th century when assembly rooms, baths, museums and theatres sprang into being, along with one of the largest hotels in Europe at the time. This surge in development was due to the influx of wealthy people who flocked to the town to enjoy the natural spring waters for the good of their health.

Leamington’s parks and pleasure gardens have also long been popular with visitors. At the heart of the spa town are the Jephson and Mill Gardens where broad promenades lead past floral displays, fountains, obelisks and clock towers. The gardens are also home to the Jephson Memorial in honour of Dr Henry Jephson who

Above: Boutique shops, cafés and restaurants grace the town centre

The perfect base to explore Warwickshire with some great attractions right on your doorstep

Enjoy a 2 or 4 night mini break from ÂŁ82 per room/per night, bed and breakfast where kids stay for FREE! For further details or to book, please call 01675 470468.

Terms & conditions apply, subject to availability

Lea Marston Hotel, Golf & Spa | Tel: 01675 470468 Haunch Lane, Lea Marston, Warwickshire, B76 0BY Email: info@leamarstonhotel.co.uk | www.leamarstonhotel.co.uk

ESCAPE TO Warwickshire

[STATELY HOME]

Coughton Court Grand interiors, tranquil gardens and a wealth of intriguing stories await visitior to this Tudor stately home, which has remained under the ownership of the same family for hundreds of years

S

of Sir Robert Throckmorton and his brother, Sir tepping through the imposing entrance at this Rght: SandcastleNicholas. After Henry VIII broke away from the Tudor property immerses visitors in 600 years of the like form of Catholic church, Sir Robert continued to hold Throckmorton family history. From religious persecution Coughton Court. the family’s Catholic beliefs, while Sir Nicolas to their involvement in the infamous Gunpowder Plot, Below left: The became a Prostestant. the centuries have left the family with plenty of stories to tell.

Tapestry Bedroom.

With religion playing a huge part in the Visitors to the property today can discover more about Below: The wellhistory of the family, it is well worth taking the Coughton and the Throckmortons as they wind their way furnished Saloon chance to pay a visit to the two churches that through the house and its collection of rooms filled with remain within the grounds at Coughton. St tapestries, paintings and period furniture. Although the grand Peter’s Church was built in the early 15-century dining room, drawing room and bedrooms are impressive, they

by Sir Robert Throckmorton and if you step inside begin to pale in comparison to the Saloon with you can see the original tomb intended as his its rich red wallpaper, dazzling chandeliers and DON’T MISS final resting place. In the event, he died during a roaring fire. Visitors enter the Saloon at the top of From 31 July to pilgrimage to the Holy Land and his descendent a grand Jacobean wooden staircase, which offers 8 September this (another Sir Robert Throckmorton) was laid to rest the perfect viewing point from which to admire year, the grounds in the tomb instead. the room. The staircase was originally sourced at Coughton Court The house and churches are surrounded by from Harvington Hall, 18 miles down the road. will be home to 250 award-winning gardens, which the Throckmorton This year will see the property highlighting the sculptures by a variety family continue to manage. With orchards, outcome of a number of conflicts endured by the of artists from across herbaceous borders, a bog garden, and the walled Throckmortons, from political and religious to the UK and around garden with its rose labyrinth, there are plenty of matters of the heart. The conflicts of key family the world. Each piece green spaces to explore. members will be examined to help demonstrate has been chosen to Tel: 01789 400 777; their ingenuity and resilience. In particular, visitors enhance the garden www.nationaltrust.org.uk/coughton-court will be able to learn about the differing allegiances and delight visitors

92 | APRIL/MAY 2015 discoverbritainmag.com

Slug TRAVEL TIP

NATIONAL TRUST IMAGES/ROBERT MORRIS /ANDREAS VON EINSIEDEL /ANDREAS VON EINSIEDEL

Enjoy a spot of lunch in the old Tudor kitchens

discoverbritainmag.com APRIL/MAY 2015 | 93

ESCAPE TO Warwickshire

Top: The ruins of Kenilworth Castle.

Middle: Recreated Elizabethan garden.

Bottom: The garden’s fountain centrepiece

[CASTLE]

T

he jagged outline of the remains of Kenilworth Castle calls out to be explored and slowly reveals a historic royal love story to those who make their way around the ruined walls and recreated Elizabethan Garden.

Elizabeth I granted the castle to her favourite courtier, Robert Dudley, in 1563.

He in turn transformed the castle in order to make it a suitable abode in which to receive the queen and her court, commissioning new luxury private chambers for the queen in the form of Leicester’s Building, as well as a beautiful garden for Elizabeth’s sole use.

Dudley spent a fortune in the hope that it would help him win the queen’s hand in marriage, and it would appear Elizabeth certainly approved of his efforts as she visited Kenilworth several times. She spent 19 days there in 1575 – the longest she ever spent at a courtier’s home.

With the castle having fallen into ruin over the centuries, it was, until recently, impossible for visitors to get a sense of what the queen’s private chambers might 94 | APRIL/MAY 2015 discoverbritainmag.com

have been like. However, a newly installed series of stairs and platforms that snake their way up through the shell of Leicester’s Building now afford visitors with the same far-reaching views that Elizabeth would once have enjoyed, and allow people to get an insight into how the queen would have spent her time here.

While the castle remains a ruined outline of its former self, Dudley’s spectacular garden has been recreated in full by English Heritage. Along with archaeological research, the gardeners had the help of a detailed letter describing the garden as it appeared in 1575.

Fountains, statues, obelisks, arbours and aviaries have all been recreated as described in the letter, and although Elizabeth and Dudley were never wed, the garden now stands as a lasting reminder of Dudley’s labour of love.

Tel: 01926 852 078; www.english-heritage.org.uk

ENGLISH HERITAGE/ ALUN BULL/ JEREMY EASTAUGH/NTI

Kenilworth Castle

[MUSEUM]

Midland Air Museum

NATIONAL TRUST IMAGES/NADIA MACKENZIE; MIDLAND AIR MUSEUM

T

based at the airfield adjacent to where the his independent museum museum stands today. located by Coventry airport has The passion that has gone into the grown from a variety of aircraft museum’s collections is clear to see. There parts collected by enthusiasts is an inviting informality to displays. Rather in 1967 to the ultimate ensemble of boys’ than being encased behind glass, robust toys. From miniature models to a 100ftaircraft parts are out in the open for visitors long Vulcan that visitors are welcome to to admire, and it is even possible to climb explore, and everything in between, the inside the cockpit of some aircraft for a museum houses a range of complete closer inspection. The whole experience aircraft along with a treasure trove of jet is likely to leave visitors feeling as though engines, propellers and replica aircraft. they have been invited inside the secret The story of aviation in the Midlands is world of the hobbyist’s hideaway (albeit conveyed through the Sir Frank Whittle the hideaway in this case is more akin to Jet Heritage Centre. Sir Frank was born an aircraft hangar than a garden shed). in Coventry and would go on to conduct Enthusiasm for the world of aviation is groundbreaking research into turbo jet catching and the impulse to propulsion used to power take up the pilot’s seat, Britain’s first jet aircraft. flick a few switches and There are also displays Right: Visitors can imagine taking to the skies dedicated to the 605 get up close to becomes irresistible.

(County of Warwickshire) the exhibits at the Tel: 02476 301 033; www.

Squadron of the Second Midland Air Museum midlandairmuseum.co.uk World War, which was

[STATELY HOME]

Upton House and Gardens

S

tep inside the home of a 1930s millionaire to discover the private collection of artworks amassed by Walter Samuel, 2nd Viscount Bearsted, who acquired Upton House in 1927 and set about filling it with an incredible collection of art and porcelain, including the works of Canaletto, Stubbs and Hogarth, among others. Lord Bearsted was able to create this vast collection due to the success of Shell oil, which was the family business.

As well as acquiring famous artworks, Lord Bearsted was also a great philanthropist and played a pivotal role in enabling Jewish people to escape from Nazi Germany. During 2015-2016 the house will be transformed to reflect how it would have been during the Second World War when the family banking business of M Samuel & Co – an arm of Shell – moved into the property.

While Lord Bearsted concerned himself with art, Lady Bearsted focused on the gardens at Upton with the help of Left: Upton’s Long designer Kitty Lloyd Jones. From the rock gardens to the Gallery houses a serenity of the Mirror Pool, the gardens at Upton are yet collection of fine art another work of art in the property’s collection. and furniture Tel: 01295 670 266; www.nationaltrust.org.uk/upton-house discoverbritainmag.com APRIL/MAY 2015 | 95

...classic contemporary design

Truly inspiring hotels ...relax, rejuvenate, restore

...time for you

...inspirational cuisine

01527 406600 www.theabbeyhotel.co.uk Hither Green Lane, Redditch, Worcestershire B98 9BE

located in the heart of the Midlands

01675 470468 www.leamarstonhotel.co.uk Haunch Lane, Lea Marston, Warwickshire B76 0BY

ESCAPE TO Warwickshire

[THEATRE]

ROYAL SHAKESPEARE THEATRE

RSC

T

famous actors who he eternally popular plays of William have performed at the Shakespeare continue to be performed across theatre over the years, the globe, but while the playwright may have including Vivien Leigh, written that ‘all the world’s a stage’, you can’t Laurence Olivier, beat watching a production of one of the bard’s Dame Judi Dench and, classic tragedies or comedies in his hometown of more recently, Stratford-upon-Avon.

David Tennant.

The Royal Shakespeare Theatre has been through The new layout several dramatic changes over the years. Originally provides audiences opened as the Shakespeare Memorial Theatre in 1879, with a fantastic the building was devastated by a fire in 1926, leading theatrical experience, whether watching a cherished Elisabeth Scott to design a new theatre which opened to Shakespeare classic or a modern production. If there’s the public in 1932. The shell of the original theatre would time before a performance, it is well worth booking later come to house the Swan Theatre in 1986. a guided tour of the theatre to learn more about its Between 2007 and 2010 the theatre was again incredible history and to get a fascinating glimpse re-imagined, but this time to create a venue more in behind the scenes. From the technical keeping with a traditional Shakespeare production process to the wardrobe layout, with the audience surrounding Above: David and make-up departments, visitors the action. During the renovations, the Tennant played can discover the multiple facets wooden planks from the old stage were Richard II in 2013. involved in putting on a show worthy of repurposed as the flooring in the new Inset: The Royal Shakespeare during a tour. foyer. So anyone now visiting the theatre Shakespeare Theatre Tel: 0844 800 1110; www.rsc.org.uk can tread the same boards as the many

DID YOU KNOW? Everything from costumes, sets, props, armour, jewellery and wigs are made by the Royal Shakespeare Company for each of their performances, but fake blood is one of the few things that isn’t made on site!

discoverbritainmag.com APRIL/MAY 2015 | 97

ESCAPE TO Warwickshire TRAVEL TIP

Visit in school holidays for children’s activities

[MUSEUM]

DID YOU KNOW?

Heritage Motor Centre

The Centre opened in 1993 as a dedicated space to amalgamate the British Motor Industry Heritage Trust’s car collection, which was previously split across locations in Warwickshire and Syon Park in London

A

Jaguar Racing team. Away from the sleek sea of shimmering vehicles in every colour you could lines of these speed-hungry designs are possibly desire (including black) can be found within the more sedate, classic models used by this museum. A timeline takes visitors through British the masses throughout the 20th century. motoring history, from the first double yellow lines Visitors can even view a replica of the and one-way streets to the compulsory use of seatbelts. Around world’s first motor car, built by Karl Benz in 300 vehicles are held within the collection, including prototypes Germany in 1886. Karl’s wife would prove that didn’t make it into full production, such as the 1972 Leyland herself to be equally enterprising while using hairpins and a piece of Crompton Electricar powered by 24 lead-acid batteries and garter elastic to administer emergency repairs during complete with curious glittery-green bodywork. the car’s first long-distance journey!

The Electricar was unfortunately never destined The Heritage Motor Centre has recently gained to make it onto the nation’s driveways, being Above: The diverse Designated status from Arts Council England in deemed unviable in terms of weight, cost and colourful fleet. recognition of its nationally important collection of and performance.

Inset: The Art Deco designed Heritage historic British cars – the largest in the world – and is Elsewhere within the museum, the 1938 MG Motor Centre due to open a new Collection Centre this September to EX135, used for early speed record attempts, is accommodate its rarely-seen reserve collection of over joined by the 2002 Formula One offering from the

98 | APRIL/MAY 2015 discoverbritainmag.com

Slug

[FOOD]

The Cross at Kenilworth

T

he anticipation of a good meal can sometimes be almost as enjoyable as the food itself. This is certainly true at The Cross at Kenilworth as diners can pull up a chair in this refurbished 19th-century inn where tables are arranged in long rows leading to a large brick fireplace. With dark wood panelling, furniture and beams overhead, the room gives the sense of dining in a modern, miniature banqueting hall. Classic menus from The Dorchester – where The Cross’s head chef, Adam Bennett, began his career – take pride of place along the wine-red walls to further whet diners’ appetites as to the treats that will soon be in front of them.

When The Cross’s own menu arrives, it is filled with traditional dishes that are sure to appeal to every palette, from pork belly served with black pudding and a punchy apple sauce, to paper-thin pineapple carpaccio with silky smooth coconut sorbet, topped with a sail of coconut tuile. The delicate dishes are beautifully presented with well thought-out flavours that complement each other perfectly.

Michelin Guide editor, Rebecca Burr praised The Cross for its relaxed atmosphere and fantastic food and awarded it its first Michelin Star for 2015, making it the only Michelin Star establishment in Warwickshire, and deservedly so.

Tel: 01926 853 840; Below: Pull up a www.thecrosskenilworth.co.uk chair and tuck into

JON STROUD MEDIA; DAVID COPEMAN PHOTOGRAPHY

some tasty treats

100 cars, including rare prototypes.

As well as the historic collections, film fans won’t struggle to spot the bright yellow futuristic Land Rover, which appeared in the 1995 film Judge Dredd, or the candyfloss pink FAB 1 of Lady Penelope featured in 2004’s Thunderbirds. With buses, caravans, and more, joining the spectrum of cars on display, the Motor Centre is a must for petrolheads. But it’s also a great place to visit for anyone just looking to take a trip down memory lane and keen to see if they can spot their first car among those on show.

Tel: 01926 641 188; www.heritage-motor-centre.co.uk discoverbritainmag.com APRIL/MAY 2015 | 99

ESCAPE TO Warwickshire

[GALLERY]

Compton Verney

JOHN CLEARY PHOTOGRAPHY

S

et in the middle of a sweeping 120-acre ‘Capability’ Brown landscape, this grand Georgian mansion was saved from dereliction in 1993 when the Compton Verney House Trust stepped in to convert it into an elegant art gallery. This was fully opened to the public in 2004.

Today, the gallery is filled with artworks from around the world and houses permanent collections covering British folk art, British portraits, Northern European art from 1450-1650, paintings and objects from Naples spanning the golden age of Baroque art from 16001800; and the fabric designs of Enid Marx.

The gallery also holds a nationally important collection of Chinese pottery and bronze works ranging from Neolithic times to the Ming Dynasty.

The Chinese collection has benefitted from a thematic redisplay for 2015 that will help visitors to enjoy the beauty of the designs on show.

As well as its permanent collections, the gallery also holds a range of changing temporary exhibitions throughout the year, both within the mansion itself and its grounds. Until 13 December this year, visitors to the gallery grounds will be able to view Kern Baby

DON’T MISS A variety of wildlife can be found throughout the gallery’s grounds, from owls and badgers to a range of bats, including Daubenton, Pipistrelle and Lesser Horseshoe

Top: The majestic gallery sits in a tranquil setting.

Inset: Art-lovers admire masterpieces

by Faye Claridge. Complementing Compton Verney’s folk art collection, Claridge’s work is based on the photographic output of Sir Benjamin Stone, who travelled the country to witness unusual traditional festivals and customs. The Kern Baby is a harvest queen doll traditionally decorated with flowers and corn, which in Claridge’s hands has also become a prop for a range of new photographic works.

As well as the sculptural works on display, a stroll around the grounds reveals the restored 18th-century ice house and a rare survival of a Georgian chapel, both the works of ‘Capability’ Brown.

Although set in a remote position compared to some of the country’s other galleries, Compton Verney’s stunning location and internationally important displays are well worth the trip.

Tel: 01926 645 500; www.comptonverney.org.uk

discoverbritainmag.com APRIL/MAY 2015 | 101

ESCAPE TO Cheshire Slug

FACT FILE

Everything you need to know to plan your visit to Warwickshire

GETTING THERE By car, Warwickshire is located between the M1 and M5. You can also follow the M40 from the south and the M6 from the North. By train, Stratford-uponAvon, Warwick and Leamington Spa all have connections to Birmingham and London.

WHERE TO STAY

ESSENTIAL WARWICKSHIRE FEATURE BY ANGHARAD MORAN

The Arden Hotel Stratford-upon-Avon From £187 per room, per night Located opposite the Royal Shakespeare Theatre and just minutes away from the town’s other historic attractions associated with the famous bard, this boutique hotel offers stylish contemporary interiors, a range of delicious food in the brasserie and a great base to explore the town.

Tel: 01789 298 682 www.theardenhotelstratford.com Coombe Abbey Binley From £89 per room, per night Founded by Cistercian monks in the 12th century, this former abbey has a long, fascinating history that has even seen it used as the home of royalty.

Transformed into a stunning hotel in the 1990s, guests can enjoy taking a stroll through the 500 acres of parkland and formal gardens before retiring to elegantly-decorated rooms complete with rich colours and period furnishings.

Tel: 02476 450 450 www.coombeabbey.com Mallory Court Hotel Leamington Spa From £155 per room per night

Set in 10 acres of ground in the countryside surrounding Leamington Spa, this country house hotel offers a scenic getaway. Rooms adopt a mix of traditional and contemporary design, while those choosing to dine at Mallory Court will be able to enjoy the spoils from the hotel’s own kitchen garden.

Tel: 01926 330 214 www.mallory.co.uk

WHERE TO EAT The Cross at Kenilworth Kenilworth Treat yourself to Michelin Star fare and inviting interiors at this restored 19th-century inn just minutes away from the ruins of Kenilworth Castle.

Tel: 01926 853 840 www.thecrosskenilworth.co.uk

taster menu for lunch and dinner is also available.

Tel: 01926 410 590 www.tailorsrestaurant.co.uk Queans Royal Leamington Spa With its welcoming atmosphere, enticing menu, locally-sourced produce and extensive selection of homemade ice creams, Queans offers a great dining experience just minutes from the main shopping area.

Tel: 01926 315 522 www.queans-restaurant.co.uk

WHEN TO GO Spring: Take a stroll through

the parks of Leamington Spa to enjoy the first of the flowers and pay a visit to Compton Verney to

Loxleys Restaurant & Wine Bar Stratford-upon-Avon This former clothes shop in the heart of town has plenty of cosy corners amid wooden beams and eclectic interiors. Choose from the a la carte or pre-theatre set menus for a mix of traditional British dishes and those inspired by international cuisine.

Tel: 01789 292 128 www.loxleysrestaurant.co.uk Tailors Restaurant Warwick Diners can expect delicately presented dishes, often offering a twist on traditional combinations to tempt curious taste buds, such as lamb with goat’s cheese, pistachio and pineapple. For those feeling a little indecisive when presented with the wonderful selection of dishes on offer, a five course

view Kern Baby by Faye Claridge.

Summer: Make the most of the weather and enjoy spending time by the river in Stratfordupon-Avon.

Autumn: This September the Heritage Motor Centre at Gaydon will be opening a new building, allowing visitors to view even more of its nationally important collection.

Winter: Enjoy the cheery Christmas lights display in Stratford-upon-Avon, considered to be one of the finest in the country, followed by a seasonal show at the Royal Shakespeare theatre.

INFORMATION Go to www.shakespearesengland.co.uk

Binley Rugby Kenilworth

Warwick

Royal Leamington Spa

Stratford-upon-Avon

N

discoverbritainmag.com APRIL/MAY 2015 | 103

Quality Made in England POLO SHIRTS T-SHIRTS

KNITWEAR JEANS

www.quantockclothing.com

George Bell House at

CHICHESTER CATHEDRAL

Seasonal Breaks

A hidden gem in the centre of Chichester ● ● ● ● ●

All rooms en-suite Breakfast available Free parking & Wi-Fi Tea/Coffee facilities Rooms to be booked in advance

NT 30% DISCOU 2015 th April

1st March – 12

A seasonal stay at George Bell House offers the convenience of a city centre location within the tranquil setting of the Cathedral precincts.

An ideal location from which to explore the historic city of Chichester with its beautiful Cathedral, galleries and shops.

01243 813586 bookings@chichestercathedral.org.uk www.chichestercathedral.org.uk | www.cathedralenterprises.co.uk CHICHESTER CATHEDRAL IS OPEN DAILY WITH FREE ENTRY

COMPETITION

Win

a two-night stay at The Arden Hotel in Shakespeare’s Stratford-upon-Avon, just a stone’s throw from the town’s famous sites

THE PRIZE

Enjoy a two-night stay for two at The Arden Hotel on a B&B basis.

BY POST: Send your answer, name and contact details to Arden Hotel Competition, Discover Britain, Archant House, Oriel Road, Cheltenham, Gloucestershire GL50 1BB. ONLINE: Visit www.discoverbritainmag.com and click on ‘Competitions & Offers’ to enter the competition online.

TERMS & CONDITIONS: Closing date for all entries is 20 May 2015. Prize valid for 12 months after closing date. Dates subject to availability and excluding Bank Holidays.

Transport is not provided. No cash alternative. Employees (and relatives) of Arden and Archant are not eligible to enter. Winners’ names may be published.

✃

L

ocated directly opposite the world-renowned Royal Shakespeare Company Theatres, The Arden Hotel is an elegant and sophisticated 45 bedroom boutique hotel in the home town of William Shakespeare.

Guests can relax in beautifully furnished rooms, most with views over the magnificent Royal Shakespeare Theatres, before making their way to the chic Waterside Brasserie and stylish Champagne Bar for a spot of indulgence. Meanwhile, the exclusive Club Bar, adorned with famous faces from the theatre’s archives, is the perfect place to settle down for an evening of star spotting.

A traditional afternoon tea can be sampled in the hotel’s elegantly decorated lounge, or go one better and upgrade to a Champagne afternoon tea for that extra touch of sparkle!

Outside, the hotel’s sun-drenched terraces overlook both the theatre and the River Avon, offering the perfect spot to enjoy something to eat or drink after exploring the town’s attractions.

With the Royal Shakespeare Theatres a stone’s throw away, you can smoothly combine an evening of culture and award-winning dining. Enjoy your starter and main course in the Waterside Brasserie, pop across to see a play and then return for dessert, coffee and a nightcap in the exclusive Club Bar. For more information, visit www.theardenhotelstratford.com

HOW TO ENTER

Which of Shakespeare’s works is famously referred to as ✓ ‘the Scottish play’?

A King Lear

B Macbeth

C Romeo and Juliet

NAME .................................................................................................................

ADDRESS ............................................................................................................ ............................................................................................................................ ................................................................... POST CODE ....................................

EMAIL .................................................................................................................

I have a subscription

I prefer not to receive product information

Escape | Places to Stay

Staying on the trail If planning a trip along the new Magna Carta trails in celebration of the charter’s 800th anniversary this year, you’ll need somewhere to rest your head along the way

The Round House B&B

The Round House B&B

FRAMLINGHAM, SUFFOLK 3 bedrooms From £95 per room, per night This delightful bed and breakfast dates from the 18th century and its octagonal form is full of quirky spaces. Set in peaceful gardens where guests can enjoy spending a sunny afternoon, The Round House is located just 10 minutes away from Framlingham Castle, which was once home to Roger Bigod, the influential 2nd Earl of Norfolk, one of the 25 baronial sureties of Magna Carta.

Tel: 01728 723 779 www.theroundhousesuffolk.co.uk

Great Northern Hotel

LONDON 91 bedrooms From £142 per room, per night This striking hotel was designed by Lewis Cubitt and first opened in 1854. Today, guests will find a wonderful blend of contemporary comfort and hand-crafted furniture amid period features that add further grace to the building and its interiors. For those on the trail of the Magna Carta, the British Library is just five minutes away where visitors can find out more about two of the four surviving 1215 copies of Magna Carta housed there.

Tel: 020 3388 0800 www.gnhlondon.com

Castle Hotel

LINCOLN 18 bedrooms From £110 per room, per night This hotel’s Grade II-listed Victorian building has seen use as a school, Second World War lookout station and army cadet centre, before being opened as a hotel in 1979. Rooms have been designed to provide a home-from-home charm while offering modern comforts. Situated less than five minutes away from Lincoln Castle, where a copy of Magna Carta is 106 | APRIL/MAY 2015 discoverbritainmag.com

Great Northern Hotel

Castle Hotel

Mercure White Hart

hotel is owned by a local farmer! Rooms are individually styled and come with views over the surrounding Georgian buildings, gardens and castle moat.

During a stay, make the five-minute walk to Hereford Cathedral. Here, the finest surviving copy of the 1217 revision of Magna Carta is held (although it is not on permanent display to the public).

Tel: 01432 356 321 www.castlehse.co.uk

Castle House

housed, many of the hotel’s bedrooms also come with views of the castle walls or the medieval cathedral.

Tel: 01522 538 801 www.castlehotel.net

Castle House

HEREFORD 24 bedrooms From £150 per room, per night Located beside the remains of the old castle moat, this hotel occupies two Regency townhouses. Guests dining at the hotel can be assured of sampling fresh, local produce, particularly as the

Mercure White Hart

SALISBURY, WILTSHIRE 68 bedrooms From £69 per room, per night Located in the centre of the historic city’s shopping district, with the famous cathedral just a five-minute walk away, the hotel is ideally situated for exploring the sites of Salisbury. Dating back to the 17th century, it now houses modern guest rooms, a newly refurbished lounge and al fresco dining in the courtyard. During a stay, pay a visit to Salisbury Cathedral to view Magna Carta in the Chapter House.

Tel: 01962 312 801 www.accorhotels.com discoverbritainmag.com APRIL/MAY 2015 | 107

Reader Offer Enjoy a bottle of wine on the house when you come to stay and dine at the stunning riverside restaurant and terrace. Quote DB15 when booking to redeem this exclusive offer*.

Follow the trail to Wiltshire’s Rose & Crown Hotel ... ... to discover the best-preserved copy of Magna Carta As the country celebrates the 800th anniversary of one of the most notable documents in English history the Rose & Crown Hotel in Salisbury invites you to discover more of the hidden treasures that Wiltshire has to offer.

Dating back to the 13th century, the 4* Legacy Rose & Crown is filled with a sense of timeless sophistication and true English hospitality, welcoming guests from across the globe to Wiltshire’s cathedral city – Salisbury.

that Wiltshire has to offer. From the mysterious marvels of Stonehenge to the literary lure of Mompesson House there’s an abundance of activities right on the hotel’s doorstep, whether you’re looking for culture, history, fun or a relaxed retreat to the beautiful ‘city in the countryside’.

Book your Wiltshire stay now…

08444 119 046 res-roseandcrown@legacy-hotels.co.uk www.legacyhotelsandresorts.co.uk/RoseandCrown

Nestled on the banks of the River Avon overlooking the magnificent Salisbury Cathedral, home to one of only four copies of Magna Carta, the hotel provides the perfect base to explore all

* T&Cs: Offer only available to over 18s. Valid until 30th September 2015. Must use quote when booking to secure offer.

Escape | Places to Stay

Hotel du Vin

Hotel du Vin

YORK 44 bedrooms From £109 per room, per night York is where King John first established a charter that would go on to be a precursor of Magna Carta. There are plenty of historic sites to see here, and Hotel du Vin offers a tranquil base from which to explore the city. Classically styled, the hotel retains many unique features of this Grade II-listed building.

Tel: 0844 748 9268 www.hotelduvin.com

Old Bank Hotel

OXFORD 42 bedrooms From £145 per room, per night Oxford’s Bodleian Library holds four copies of 13th-century Magna Carta manuscripts, while the library itself is one of the oldest in Europe. The Old Bank Hotel sits across the road from a range of university buildings, including the Bodleian Library. Rooms come with elegant décor for a relaxing stay, while some even offer views overlooking the iconic university buildings.

Tel: 01865 799 599 www.oldbank-hotel.co.uk

Old Bank Hotel

Macdonald Windsor Hotel

WINDSOR 120 bedrooms From £133 per room, per night Stylish and contemporary touches can be found throughout this hotel where bedrooms offer a calm and comfortable space to spend time after a busy day of sight-seeing. Friendly staff welcome guests amid relaxed surroundings, while quality British cuisine is prepared by acclaimed chefs in the hotel’s restaurant.

Here, specially sourced ingredients are served, along with herbs from the hotel’s own roof-top garden. Located in the heart of historic Windsor, you’d be hard pushed to stay much closer to Windsor Castle unless under personal invite of HM The Queen! It was from the castle that King John travelled to meet with the barons who demanded that he sign Magna Carta at nearby Runnymede in 1215.

Tel: 01753 483 100 www.macdonaldhotels.co.uk

Macdonald Windsor Hotel

discoverbritainmag.com APRIL/MAY 2015 | 109

Classifieds AC C O M M O DAT I O N

MISCELLANEOUS

THE INDEPENDENT TRAVELLER Established 1980

Single room from Twin/Double room from Family room (3 or 4) from

£42 - £55 £34 - £41 £28 - £40

£58 - £72 £44 - £65 £38 - £48

Quality rental apartments and cottages in London, Edinburgh and many UK cities.

Available from 3 nights to 3 months and more.

From studios for 1 or 2 to 4 bedroom apartments for 8.

FAST PERSONAL SERVICE

Contact Mary and Simon Ette Tel: 01392 860807 E: help@gowithit.co.uk www.gowithit.co.uk

A N C E S T RY A N D T I T L E S

PUBLISHERS

Ancestors Discover Your Ancestors

Let our professional genealogists trace your family history nationally and internationally.

Money back guarantee!

For the best, most economical services write to: 11 Crosbie Road, Harborne, Birmingham, B17 9BG. Visit: ancestorsgenealogy.co.uk

0121 2464260

(DB)

Something for everyone...

C A R R E N TA L

TO U R S

Wide range of vehicles available for personal meet & greet service at Heathrow or Gatwick airport and 11 branches throughout the South East.

urs Country Lane To Est 1994 for tours in Wales

Escorted vacations in beautiful, unspoilt countryside for independent travellers, families and small groups.

Dates for our ever popular “Village Life in Wales” & “Land of my Fathers” tours are on our website along with other itineraries and information.

ECONOMY CARS – MEDIUM & LARGE CARS - MPV’S – MINIBUSES

Tel: 0044 (0)1248 352402 | www.countrylanetours.com Email: info@countrylanetours.com

Book online at www.kendallcars.com | Call: +44 1483 574434

Country Lane Tours, Y Bwthyn, Waen Wen, Snowdonia, Wales LL57 4UF

To advertise contact Dan Martin: 01242 264781; daniel.martin@archant.co.uk Calls from North America: dial the country code ‘01144’ and drop the first ‘0’ in the UK number

ADVERTORIAL

GARDENS TO VISIT

Why not spend a magical day in one of Britain’s truly gorgeous Gardens? Look over our chosen selection of Gardens to Visit for something special this Spring WADDESDON MANOR

1

The Victorian garden has a parterre, aviary, seasonal displays, fountains and statuary.

Top quality food and wines are served throughout the day in the restaurants, and the award-winning shops offer a superb range of gifts and wine. Open Wednesdays Sundays and Bank Holidays 25th March – 25th October. Christmas opening 11th November 2015– 3rd Jan 2016 (closed 24-26th December). Group admission rates to house and gardens: Adult £13, Child £6.50, NT members and under 5s free.

Free coach parking and driver refreshment voucher. www.waddesdon.org.uk Tel: 01296 653226 Email: deborah.read@nationaltrust.org.uk

ROUSHAM HOUSE & GARDEN

2

Rousham represents the first phase of English landscape design, and remains almost as William Kent left it, one of the few gardens of this date to have escaped alteration, with many features which delighted 18th century visitors to Rousham still in situ, such as the ponds and cascades in Venus’s Vale, the Cold Bath and sevenarched Praeneste, Townsend’s Building, the Temple of the Mill, and, on the skyline, a sham ruin known as the ‘eyecatcher’.

Open: Daily from 10am, last admission 4.30pm.

HIMALAYAN GARDEN

3

Visit our inspiring garden, 20 acres of beautiful walks & lakes with plant nursery for quality & hardy plants. Group visits and talks are available, please contact us for further information. Limited wheelchair access. Dogs on leads welcome. Easter Week Special: Fri 3rd April - Sun 12th April. Open: Tues to Sun and Bank Holidays 10am - 4pm. Admission: £7.50 (Children under 12 FREE). Refreshments available from our tearoom. Nursery & mail order plant sales available all year. www.himalayangarden.com

Photo credit Julien Lightfoot

ABBOTSBURY SUBTROPICAL GARDENS

4

A recent winner of the HHA/Christie’s Garden of the Year Award, and described by Alan Titchmarsh as “One of the finest gardens I have ever visited”. Abbotsbury is celebrating its 250th anniversary during 2015, with new features including a Burma Rope Bridge, lots of special events and more fabulous plants. 2015 is definitely the year to visit Abbotsbury. Phone: 01305 871130 or Email: info@abbotsburytourism.co.uk Open every day except 19th Dec to 1st Jan inclusive, 10.00am to 5.00pm or 4.00pm in winter.

EXBURY GARDENS AND STEAM RAILWAY

5

Exbury is world-renowned for its truly dazzling spring colour. April is the time to enjoy one of the country’s finest collections of rhododendrons. With a myriad of pathways to explore, breathtaking views at every turn, a Steam Railway, licensed Tea Rooms and free parking, the enchanting 200 acre woodland garden is a must-stop destination for visitors to the New Forest. Open: 14 March to 8 November, 10am to 4.30pm last admission. Adults £12.10*, Children £2.75*, Family £25.85* including voluntary donation. Exbury, Southampton, Hampshire, SO45 1AZ. Tel: +44 (0)2380 8 1203, email: info@exbury.co.uk or visit: www.exbury.co.uk

DISCOVER BRITAIN’S CANALS

Experience Britain’s Canals on a boating holiday that caters especially for you There’s nothing to beat the sense of peace as your narrowboat glides along this historic network left from the industrial revolution. Now havens for wildlife, the waterways are punctuated with historic landmarks and more than the odd cosy pub for that essential refreshment. Book your trip today, and head out on the water tomorrow

HOTELBOAT KAILANI

SILSDEN BOATS

bearBOATING

CANAL CRUISING

Travel the canals and rivers of Southern England on the 5-star Hotel Boat Kailani. Four guests maximum on 3 to 7 night full board cruises in private en-suite cabins. Peace, tranquillity, luxury. Help at the locks or relax and let nature pass you by - you choose!

Tel 07447 051 558; www.hotelboatkailani.com

JessicaBOO is a 57ft semi-traditional narrowboat on the Leeds Liverpool Canal. She is only two years old and usually booked for one week, one way cruises between Barnoldswick and Apperley Bridge. JessicaBOO is fitted out to the highest standards and was christened the ‘Most Luxurious Hire Boat Ever’ by Waterways World in 2013.

Call Andy on Tel 07969 901 383; www.bearboating.co.uk

Discover the tranquil beauty of the Leeds and Liverpool Canal. Meander through peaceful, unspoilt countryside on our luxury narrowboats. We are a family run operation and have 22 boats available for hire, from 2-9 berth including 5 wide-beam. Most boats are less than 5 years old.

Tel 01535 653 675; www.silsdenboats.co.uk

With 67 years of boat hire experience, the Wyatt family will guide you through some of the best canal routes on the system, with some spectacular countryside views along the way. Our focus is on giving guests an amazing time from the beginning to the end of your journey.

For more information contact us today on Tel 01785 813 982; www.canalcruising.co.uk

Crossword Challenge your knowledge of Britain’s history, legends and people with our puzzle page DOWN

ACROSS

AGE FOTOSTOCK/ALAMY

1 Biddulph __, National Trust garden in Staffordshire (6) 4 William __, eminent Victorian designer, poet and socialist reformer (6) 8 Sir Michael __, composer awarded the Order of Merit in 1983 (7) 9 A market town in Hertfordshire (7) 11 Renowned Elizabethan house near Kendal in Cumbria (6,4) 12 A building where corn is ground (4) 13 Scottish river once famous for the shipbuilding industries along its banks (5)

14 A small cathedral city north of Stirling in Scotland (8) 16 Floral emblem of Wales (8) 18 Cricket ground in St John’s Wood, London (5) 20 Catherine __, sixth wife of Henry VIII (4) 21 The largest natural lake in England (10) 23 Military or naval rank (7) 24 Officers responsible for State ceremonial and etiquette (7) 25 Village near Lllangollen, at the junction of the rivers Alwen and Dee, that is closely associated with the hero Owain Glyndwr (6) 26 Sir Frederick __, ballet dancer, choreographer, and director (6)

Think you have all the answers?

We’ll reveal the solutions to this crossword in issue 188 (October/ November 2015), on sale from 23 September

1 A person who conducts visitors or tourists on tours, etc (5) 2 Former county town of Westmorland (7) 3 Town on the south bank of the Tyne opposite Newcastle upon Tyne (9) 5 Oxford college founded by Edward II in 1326 (5) 6 __ Crompton, author of the popular William books for children (7) 7 There were 20 of these to the pound (9) 10 Cambridge college founded in 1428 (9) 13 An early form of motor coach (9) 15 Renowned English sculptor, a founder member of the Royal Academy in 1768 (9) 17 Surname of the author of Howards End (7) 19 A defensive wall with a broad top and usually a stone parapet (7) 21 Gilbert __, author of The Natural History and Antiquities of Selborne (5) 22 French sculptor whose work The Kiss may be seen in the Tate Modern (5)

Solution to crossword in issue 182 (October/November 2014): Across: 1 Vanity, 5 Eversley, 9 Maes Howe, 10 Grouse, 11 Grantchester, 14 Tern, 15 Lollards, 18 Prospero, 19 Lion, 21 Darby and Joan, 24 Arnold, 25 Leighton, 26 Gymkhana, 27 Humber Down: 2 Alan, 3 Issigonis, 4 Yeoman, 5 Eye, 6 Edgehill, 7 Scots, 8 Eisteddfod, 12 Telford, 13 Near Sawrey, 16 Allingham, 17 Melandra, 20 Josiah, 22 Brook, 23 Dove, 25 Lea

discoverbritainmag.com APRIL/MAY 2015 | 113

Great British Adventurers

The heroic story of a Victorian Scottish pioneer in Africa

T

he immortal greeting was allegedly uttered by US journalist Henry Stanley on encountering the missionary explorer David Livingstone in the African Congo in 1871. His words live on, while Livingstone’s achievements have almost been forgotten.

Livingstone was born in 1813 in Blantyre, Scotland to poor but pious parents. Aged 10 he went to work in a cotton mill, but spent part of his first week’s wage on a Latin grammar book.

At 21 he heard an appeal through his church for medical missionaries to work in China. This galvanised him to seek more education and while still working part-time in the mill he studied Greek, theology and medicine. In 1840, he was

114 | APRIL/MAY 2015 discoverbritainmag.com

ordained as a missionary, but instead of China he set sail for Cape Town.

For the next 15 years Livingstone explored the interior of Africa, venturing further north than any other European had and learning local languages and cultures in order to spread the word of the gospels.

Although he married the daughter of a fellow missionary, he began to be driven by more than the desire to spread religion. His association with the British Royal Geographical Society encouraged his explorations.

In his endeavours he faced many dangers, including being caught up in a Boer attack on an African village.

Livingstone developed a hatred for the Boers and the Portuguese, who he

Learn more at the David Livingstone Centre in Blantyre, near Glasgow. Visit www.nts. org.uk/property/david-livingstone-centre

Victoria Falls

WORDS BY SHEENA HARVEY; GETTY IMAGES/ISTOCKPHOTO

Dr Livingstone, I presume?

believed were exploiting the African people. He was passionately antislavery and part of the motivation for his explorations was to find a route from the interior to the Atlantic coast, avoiding Boer-held territory, so that legitimate commerce with the West could undercut the slave trade.

These incursions into the wild were too arduous for Livingstone’s family, who sailed back to Britain. By the time he rejoined them in 1856, he was a national hero, having trekked all over southern Africa, discovering Victoria Falls, which he named after his Queen.

In later years Livingstone made many more journeys through Africa and finally, in 1866, he set out to discover the source of the Nile. The trip didn’t prove easy and several of his African companions deserted him. Fearing punishment for doing so, they reported him killed by a hostile tribe. The news sent shock waves through both sides of the Atlantic, but then rumours began to circulate that perhaps he was just lost.

The New York Herald sent reporter Henry Stanley to try and find him.

This he did, at Lake Tanganyika in October 1871, when Livingstone was in dire need of the medicines he brought.

Although not fully well, he could not be persuaded to return with Stanley.

Just over a year later, Livingstone was found dead by his African hosts at a village in what is now Zimbabwe.

They buried his heart in African soil and carried his body to the coast to sail home to Britain. He was buried at Westminster Abbey. His fervent belief that Africans could make a great contribution to the modern world has since been hailed as a forerunner to African nationalism, and his discoveries in geographical, social, technical and medical fields are still being explored. ■

Recipe: Hazelnut choux croquant Choux: 5 oz (140 g) 1 oz (26g) 6.5 oz (192ml) 3.5 oz (96g) Pinch 7 oz (200g)

plain flour sugar water butter salt whole eggs

Praline chantilly: 7.5 oz (210g) UHT milk 20 oz (562g) gianduja spread 11 oz (320g) praline paste Boil UHT milk. Pour onto gianduja and blitz.

Add praline and blitz again. Set overnight.

Whip up and pipe inside choux.

SUBSCRIBE TO DISCOVER BRITAIN

SPECIAL SAVINGS

Bring water and butter to the boil. Add flour and cook out well. Place in food processor and beat with a paddle for a minute to cool slightly. Then slowly start adding the eggs bit-by-bit until they are dropping consistency. Then pipe into 0.35oz (10g) balls.

Craquelin: 5.5 oz (150g) 5.5 oz (150g) 3.5 oz (100g)

Caramelised nuts: 1 oz (28g) sugar 6.5 oz (180g) water 25 whole hazelnuts Pinch salt

BIGGER, BOLDER, BETTER: MORE PAGES PACKED WITH CASTLES, PALACES, ROYALS AND THE RITZ

plus

Britain’s most haunted historic houses

The perfect way to tour the UK

Brideshead, Revisited

The real story behind Evelyn Waugh’s masterpiece

Put the sugar and water in the pan and

demerara sugar plain flour butter

bring to the boil. Then add the nuts and move constantly until they have crystallised. Do not leave the pan, it needs

Mix with paddle but do not beat heavily. Roll

to be stirred constantly. Once ready, add the

to 1⁄8 inch (3mm) between a paper sheet.

salt while the nuts are still in the pan and

Cut with 1 inch (2.5cm) ring, and then place

then separate on paper before allowing

on top of the choux. Once the craquelin

to cool completely. Place one caramelised

has been placed, bake at 165 degrees for

nut inside the choux, and use another for

approximately 15-16 minutes, until golden.

decoration on top as preferred.

Kitchen confidential Behind the scenes of afternoon tea at The Ritz

King of castles Murder, betrayal and scandal at Warwick Castle AUGUST / SEPT 2015 £4.50 09

9 772047 019017

discoverbritainmag.com

Norfolk

Anne Boleyn to the Duke & Duchess of Cambridge: the royals’ favourite county

OFC_CoverUK_aug/sept15.indd 1

07/07/2015 09:41

Receive a year’s subscription showcasing the very best of the British Isles – with travel, history and so much more Special annual subscription rates (6 issues) USA – US $29.95 Canada – CAN $38.95 Australia – AUS $59.99 UK – From £19.99 Rest of the world – £29.99

To order, go to www.chelseamagazines. com/discoverbritain-P504 or call US/Canada 888-321-6378 Australia/NZ +61 (0)3 8317 8135 from the UK and other countries +44 (0)1795 419 839 discoverbritainmag.com 67

SLEEP

HOSTE ARMS The Hoste Arms is situated at Burnham Market – otherwise known as Chelsea-on-Sea, for its perennial glut of smart London visitors. The main hotel, a former manor house, is everpopular, but we love its outpost on the outskirts of the town: The Railway Carriage. Perfect for two, the carriage is a boutique retreat, all velvets and polished wood. Quirkily luxurious.

SUBSCRIBE to the DIGITAL EDITION

BIGGER, BOLDER, BETTER: MORE PAGES PACKED WITH CASTLES, PALACES, ROYALS AND THE RITZ

plus

www.thehoste.com

Britain’s most haunted historic houses

The perfect way to tour the UK

Brideshead, Revisited

The real story behind Evelyn Waugh’s masterpiece

Kitchen confidential Behind the scenes of afternoon tea at The Ritz

King of castles Murder, betrayal and scandal at Warwick Castle

CLEY WINDMILL Norfolk is famous for its windmills, and few are better known than the 18th century landmark at Cley. Check in for the night at this characterful, circular B&B, which is all beams, roaring fires and warm welcomes. www.cleywindmill.co.uk

Norfolk

Anne Boleyn to the Duke & Duchess of Cambridge: the royals’ favourite county

US $27.95 or £19.95 WORLDWIDE! • Instant delivery of each new issue • Overseas savings on the print price • Read it anywhere: available on mobile, tablet, desktop www.chelseamagazines.com/ discoverbritain-P504D discoverbritainmag.com 83