Explore More issue 12 - Spring 2018

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EXPLORE See more of the world with Viking / Spring 2018 £3.95

Food Focus

C E L E B R AT I N G F L A V O U R S O F T H E W O R L D

VIKING SUN

Making history Down Under

G LO R I O U S GARDENS

Your guide to seasonal planting

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WELCOME

A fresh new look for spring Welcome to our new-look Explore More. The team here at Viking HQ felt it was time for a bit of a refresh and we have loved working on this edition. We really hope you enjoy reading it at home, and will be inspired to make some exciting travel plans for the year ahead.

One thing that hasn’t changed is our great destination features. From the West Indies to Russia, Cuba and the Mediterranean, our travel writers have plenty of tips and highlights to share with you. Plus, we have a selection of classic recipes from Portugal, along with some delicious wines, to help transport you to a land of sunshine.

We’re delighted that Paul Hervey-Brookes, our RHS Chelsea Flower Show garden designer, has shared some of his secrets to gardening success. And we’ve also got some great city guides to take your travels to the next level.

Thank you also to everyone who joined us recently at the opening of our Ocean Liners: Speed and Style exhibition at the Victoria and Albert Museum (photos on page 9). If you’re able to visit, the exhibition is open until 17 June.

We have lots more events coming up this summer, look out for details on our website – we would love to see you!

Managing Director, Viking UK

T WEET US:

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FIND OUT MORE ABOUT THE VIKING EXPLORER SOCIETY ON OUR WEBSITE

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Co n t e n t s more

EXPLORE See more of the world with Viking / Spring 2018 £3.95

Food Focus

C E L E B R AT I N G F L AV O U R S O F T H E W O R L D

G LO R I O U S GARDENS

Your guide to seasonal planting

Spring 2018

IN THIS ISSUE...

CHARITY ANNOUNCEMENT Viking reveals its charity partner for 2018 and we meet a staff member raising money

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OCEAN LINERS: SPEED & STYLE Photos from the Viking launch party at the V&A Museum’s new exhibition

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11 HISTORY IN THE MAKING Celebrating Viking Sun’s arrival in Australia, marking Viking’s first visit to the country 34 SPRING IS IN THE AIR Award-winning garden designer Paul Hervey-Brookes shares his tips for gardening success VIKING SUN

Making history Down Under

CoverFinal2_EM12.indd 1

27/03/2018 11:30

Cover: Hand Sewn Seafood, an original artwork by Kate Jenkins, as seen on Viking ocean ships.

Photo: Emma Wood

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70 VIKING BOOK CLUB Readers’ recommendations for enticing reads to take with you on your travels 82 A GUIDING STAR We catch up with composer Debbie Wiseman MBE about her role as a Viking Godmother

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9 45 FEATURES

REGULARS

14 PARADISE FOUND Travel writer Anthony Pearce enjoys the cultural highlights of his West Indies Explorer cruise

3 WELCOME Wendy Atkin-Smith, Managing Director of Viking UK, welcomes you to Explore More

20 FOOD FOR THOUGHT Brighton-based artist

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26 FROM RUSSIA WITH LOVE David Short journeys to

12 YOUR WORLD Our pick of the best letters and photos from Viking guests, plus our favourite social media snapshots

Kate Jenkins discusses her latest seafood-inspired projects

the heart and soul of this enormous and fascinating country

38 THE CALL OF THE OCEAN After joining Viking Star in

Rome, journalist Sue James is converted to ocean cruising

VIKING NEWS The latest news and events

37 KARINE’S TRAVELS Viking’s Senior Vice President Karine Hagen’s latest adventures, news and tips

45 PACKING ESSENTIALS Inspired by her successful ocean

46 FASHION Style guru Amanda Start chooses the best seasonal buys for your upcoming cruise

50 DISCOVERING THE DOURO Sam Berry discovers a

76 CITY GUIDE: SANTORINI Visit the Aegean’s most dazzling jewel, boasting iconic viewpoints, history and culture

cruise, Sue James recommends her best travel buys

world of history lies at the heart of this wine-making region

58 A TASTE OF PORTUGAL Delicious recipes and wine tips 64 ESCAPE THE WINTER BLUES John Wilmott reaps the benefits of an off-season cruise in the Mediterranean

78 CITY GUIDE: BANGKOK Immerse yourself in the thriving metropolis that is Thailand’s spiritual heartland

80 CITY GUIDE: KIEV Discover the Ukranian capital city’s mix of Orthodox churches and cultural hotspots

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Viking NEWS A round-up of the latest travel news and events from the world of Viking

Best in show...

We’re thrilled to have won not one, but four awards in the 2018 Cruise Critic’s Cruisers’ Choice Awards!

Based entirely on traveller reviews posted to the Cruise Critic website, Viking Sea won Best Cruise Ship for Dining, Best Cruise Ship for Embarkation, Best Cruise Ship for Fitness and Best Cruise Ship Public Rooms.

These accolades are particularly important to us as they’re based solely on people’s personal experience on their Viking cruise. Meanwhile, The Wave Awards took place in March to celebrate excellence in the UK cruise industry and we are delighted to have won Favourite River Cruise Line, as voted for by the public, and Best for Wellbeing/Spas in the on board category.

Shehnaz Hansraj, Viking’s Head of Research & Insight, accepted the trophy (above right) at the ceremony.

TOP OF THE CHARTS

CRUISERS’ CHOICE

In early March, our fourth ocean ship, Viking Sun, was named during a spectacular celebration on The Bund, in the heart of Shanghai.

The ship is currently sailing Viking’s sold-out 141-day World Cruise from Miami to London, and was the first of our ocean ships to visit China. Mrs Li You, VP of China Merchant Bank Financial Leasing, became the ship’s ceremonial godmother. She offered a blessing of good fortune and safe sailing for Viking Sun, and cut a ribbon to smash a bottle of Norwegian aquavit against the ship’s hull. Guests also watched a projected animation depicting the story of silk – key to the cultural bond between Norway and China.

This year, we sponsored Classic FM’s Hall of Fame, where listeners voted for their favourite pieces of music and had the chance to win a ‘Half-Day Holiday’ on board a Viking ship. Following on from this, we are creating our very own Viking Hall of Fame, asking our guests to vote for their top cruise destinations. Keep an eye on your inboxes, as we’ll be announcing the winning destinations soon.

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PHOTOS: © STEVE DUNLOP/ALASTAIR MILLER/ISTOCK

VIKING SUN IS CHRISTENED

NEWS

DATES FOR THE DIARY

Come and see us at one of these fantastic events this summer: 22-26 May RHS Chelsea Flower Show 5-23 June Hampton Court Palace Music Festival 2-8 July RHS Hampton Court Palace Flower Show 3-8 July Greenwich Music Time

New horizons…

The new South America & the Chilean Fjords itinerary launched in January. The 18-day cruise from Buenos Aires to Santiago visits Argentina, Uruguay, the Falkland Islands (home to one million penguins) and Chile, as well as scenic cruising past the Amalia Glacier and the Chilean Fjords.

Meanwhile, the new Along Europe’s Western Coast cruise is a 15-day trip visiting seven different countries. Guests will be able to experience the magnificent architecture of Barcelona, the Moorish legacies of Granada’s Alhambra Palace, the canal-lined charms of Bruges and the fairy-tale wonder of Copenhagen.

LA dreaming

In January, we welcomed our fourth and newest ocean ship, Viking Sun, to Los Angeles for the first time – a special moment as the city is also home to our American headquarters.

Viking Chairman Torstein Hagen (left) greeted guests and announced that our sixth ocean ship will be named Viking Jupiter. The ship will launch in 2019, sailing around the Mediterranean, before heading on to Scandinavia.

VIKING OCEAN SHIPS VISIT UK PORTS

Viking ocean ships will be visiting a number of UK destinations this summer, including Greenwich, Holyhead, Portsmouth, Ullapool and Rosyth. Check our website for the chance to join us for lunch on board and a tour of the ship.

FANTASTIC FEEDBACK

We’re delighted to have been awarded first place in the Which? River Cruise Survey, picking up the highest marks in four out of eight categories. We pride ourselves on our customer service, so we couldn’t be happier to have received this endorsement.

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OFFICIAL CHARITY

We are delighted to announce that our chosen charity partner this year is the Lord’s Taverners – a fantastic charity that supports so many brilliant causes.

As the UK’s leading youth cricket and disability sports charity, the Lord’s Taverners is dedicated to giving disadvantaged and disabled young people a sporting chance – a goal we wholeheartedly support.

There are around 4.6 million young people in the UK living in poverty or with a disability, and we at Viking look forward to working with the Lord’s Taverners in an effort to help reduce these numbers.

As we aim to raise as much money as we can for this amazing, worthy cause, we’ll be getting involved in some great sporting activities… sweatbands and leg-warmers at the ready! lordstaverners.org

Meet the team

We follow the footsteps of Jenny Wade, Viking’s Regional Sales Manager, as she gears up to run a marathon for the Lord’s Taverners, Viking’s charity partner What do you enjoy most about your job?

I love the product! Talking about something you are genuinely passionate about is easy: there are so many times I open a brochure, or look at an itinerary on the website, and think ‘I want to do that’. The people at Viking are fantastic, too: I always feel part of the team.

What’s your favourite cruise itinerary and ship, and why?

Where you are from?

I would love to have an exotic tale, but I’m just from Yorkshire. And I have lived in Skipton, ‘Gateway to the Yorkshire Dales’, my whole life, leaving only to do stints as a holiday rep in Rhodes and to study Journalism at Edge Hill University, in Ormskirk, Lancashire.

How long have you worked for Viking?

I’ve been with the company a little over two years, but I’ve been in the cruise industry for more than 12 years now, and one of the first cruises I ever went on was a Viking cruise.

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I’m going to have to go with Romantic Danube because, for me, it encompasses everything that is great about river cruising: magnificent cities and towns and spectacular scenery, plus Viking’s prime docking positions mean you can moor in the heart of it all. Ship-wise, it has to be Viking’s first ocean ship, Viking Star, I know all our ocean ships are identical, but she was the first and therefore gave me my first taste of Viking ocean cruising.

Which destination is high on your bucket list?

Canada. I have spent a lot of time in the US but have never been to Canada. I love the active lifestyle so want to visit Banff, Jasper and Lake Louise, as well as taking the train trough the Rocky Mountains and cruising through the Inside Passage.

Can you tell us about your upcoming race in the London Marathon?

This will be my seventh marathon and the one I have trained for most, mainly because I am desperate to beat my personal best of 3 hours 33 minutes.

It is hard to train throughout the winter months, but knowing that I am doing it to support the Lord’s Taverners motivates me. So even on days when its pouring with rain, blowing a gale and my legs are saying, ‘please no’, I just think of the charitable cause and get out there to cover the miles…. Wish me luck!

You can support Jenny here: mydonate.bt.com/fundraisers/ jennywade1

NEWS

notmyage.co m), Hat Margolis (thats Karen Booth Alyson Walsh and ge.com) (lavenderandlova

PARTY PEOPLE Celebrating the launch of Ocean Liners: Speed and Style, sponsored by Viking

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n February, the Ocean Liners: Speed and Style exhibition opened at the V&A Museum, and will run until 17 June 2018.

It’s a groundbreaking show that highlights the design stories of the world’s greatest ocean liners and the part that these vessels have played in shaping the modern world.

We invited some of our Viking Explorer Society members, travel writers, journalists and bloggers to the opening, and we have been thrilled with all the glowing reviews of the exhibition.

Travel blogge rs Le Teace (cru Marcus Adams (spark x.or isi Becky Wiggi ngisntjustforoldpeople. g), Emma ns co (shipsandcha (englishmum.com) an .uk), d Flavia Gra mpagne.com y )

Book your tickets online at vam.ac.uk

ses) and Neil Barclay (Viking Crui Members Viking Explorer Society

Ghislaine Wood, exhibition curator, and Neil Barclay (Viking Cruises)

Viking Explorer Society Members

xplorer Viking E

ember Society M

s

Shehnaz Hansraj (Viking Cruises) and Roshni Patel (The Wanderlust Within)

Rebecca Barnes (Cruise Trade News), Louise Robinson (World of Cruising) and Sam Centenera (Viking Cruises) SPR ING 2018 | VIKINGCRUISES.CO.UK

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11-day Caribbean ocean cruise San Juan roundtrip 11 days, 9 guided tours Departing November 2018 to February 2020

Prices from £2,490pp

The whisper of palm trees swaying on a pictureperfect beach. The soft touch of fine white sand between your toes. The dazzling sight of tropical birds in a lush forest. The mouthwatering taste of Creole cuisine. When you discover the many beautiful islands of the Caribbean, it’s comforting to know that you’re travelling with the very best – and enjoying the very best value for money, with everything you need to enjoy yourself included in the price. Join us on Viking Sea, and explore the Caribbean in comfort with us.

Days 1-2 San Juan, Puerto Rico Day 3 Tortola, British Virgin Islands Day 4 St. John’s, Antigua Day 5 Castries, St. Lucia Day 6 Bridgetown, Barbados Day 7 Pointe-à-Pitre, Guadeloupe Day 8 Basseterre, St. Kitts Day 9 Philipsburg, St. Martin Day 10 Charlotte Amalie, St. Thomas, US Virgin Islands Day 11 San Juan, Puerto Rico

To find out more or to request our ocean brochure, call 020 8780 7900 or visit vikingcruises.co.uk Prices correct at time of going to print but are subject to availability. From prices are per person and based on two people sharing the lowest grade stateroom available on West Indies Explorer, departing on selected dates in 2018 & 2019. Prices valid until 30 April 2018. Single supplements apply.

For more information please visit vikingcruises.co.uk/terms-conditions or call us.

NEWS

History in the making When Viking Sun sailed into Australian waters, it marked Viking’s transformation into a truly global company

Above:

PHOTOS: © ALASTAIR MILLER

The historic arrival of Viking Sun into Sydney’s spectacular harbour during the much-anticipated world cruise

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hen Viking Sun sailed into Sydney Harbour in February 2018, as part of a 141-day World Cruise from Miami to London, Viking was able to celebrate its first visit to the country in its 20-year history. To mark the occasion, Viking hosted a glamorous event at the Museum of Contemporary Art in Sydney.

The Ambassador of Norway, Her Excellency Ms Unni Kløvstad, addressed key media and guests, and Michelle Black, Managing Director of Viking Australia and New Zealand, thanked everyone for their support and loyalty.

Atle Knutsen, the Captain of Viking Sun, proposed a celebratory

toast with Aquavit, the traditional Scandinavian liquor distilled in Norway and matured at sea, crossing over 360 degrees of

longitude while circumnavigating the globe. Viking Sun is currently home to six casks of Aquavit that will have crossed the equator twice by the end of the world cruise.

Melbourne was the ship’s first Australian port of call, followed by Sydney, Brisbane, the Whitsunday Islands, Cairns, the Great Barrier Reef, Thursday Island and Darwin.

Then the journey continues on to Indonesia before heading northwards, back towards London.

When the ship finally arrives in Greenwich on 5 May, she will have visited five continents, 35 countries and 64 ports. The ship will again sail the globe during its second world cruise, from Miami to London, leaving 3 January 2019.

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Your WORLD

We catch up with where you’ve been and what you’ve seen on your Viking cruises... and where you’re off to next

YOUR LETTERS Magical journey We’ve just returned from our Magnificent Mekong cruise and it was the holiday-of-a-lifetime – so far! This was, in fact, our 11th trip with Viking, stretching back to 2005, all of which have been excellent! From the itinerary, the programme of activities and experiences to the quality of the hotels and, of course, the magical journey down the Mekong itself.

The knowledge of our local guides and willingness to share their way of life enabled us to see first-hand how the country is moving rapidly into the 21st century while retaining its individual cultures.

Carrol and Geoff Simpson

First-class service The ‘problem’ with Viking’s cruises is they are so ultra-efficient – the standard of care, the facilities and the food are all so excellent that my wife and I have become addicted and can’t accept anything

less! We cannot think of a better way to have celebrated our Diamond Wedding Anniversary and we did appreciate the cake presented to us in our stateroom.

Mr & Mrs Gold

Danube delight I wanted to let you know what a fabulous Danube Waltz cruise I had, beyond expectations. Terry, our Programme Director, was the best and all the staff were so helpful, friendly and could not do enough for you. I cannot praise enough my first river cruise.

Looking forward to another one, hopefully in 2019. With thanks, an extremely satisfied client!

Jenny Hutchinson

Viking family This cruise exceeded our expectations. Our Programme Executive, Chuong (Kong to all of us), made this trip extra special.

He took care of his ‘Viking family’ with efficiency, professionalism and care, and he had considerable knowledge of both the country’s history, politics and current affairs.

I learnt a lot about Vietnam and Cambodia and have taken away some very special memories.

Susan Hugill

Beyond expectations My husband and I have recently returned from a Rhine cruise on Viking Tialfi in December. The

You could win...

...a £50 M&S gift voucher if your letter is chosen as our star letter. Email us at uk-marketing@ vikingrivercruises.com 12

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S TA R L E T T E R

We loved our Romantic Danube cruise.

The Mozart-Strauss concert in Vienna was exceptional. Other highlights were the Christmas markets, the beauty of the river, particularly the stillness at dusk, and all the extra touches that made it so special. This was our first cruise, we can’t wait for the next.

Lesley Hall

Hit List West Indies Explorer, and Viking Homelands this spring, then Rhine Getaway for Christmas!

This is our Viking year!

Sue Wright Amsterdam and tulips, and Christmas markets on the Rhine Susan Mitchell

food and the staff were excellent.

I cannot praise the holiday highly enough. We had a wonderful time and would certainly recommend Viking to our friends.

Diane Ballard

Top of our list Up to the summer of 2014, all our cruises had been on the ocean, but then we decided to take the plunge and went on our first river cruise, with Viking, of course. The wonderful Danube – from Nuremberg to Budapest.

Budapest was the icing on the cake. Now we’ve also cruised the Imperial Jewels of China, the Rhone and the Rhine. In January, we sailed in the Med with friends for my 65th birthday. What a fabulous experience! And we have three more cruises booked!

Viking is certainly top of our list.

Liz Eardley

LETTERS

Y O U R P H O T O S #MyVikingStory Follow us on Instagram @VikingCruisesUK for more inspirational images

Cruise Highlights Clockwise from top left: 1. Putting the final touches on 25th anniversary vacation with the help of our fur babies! leeannleonard07 2. After an amazing day exploring Bridgetown, Barbados, we were treated to an unreal sunset – 360-degree views from around the ship. Jason F 3. Great day in Brunei.

Nancy OConnor 4. An awesome day diving in the deep. Ibe May 5. Picturesque views of pastelcoloured houses along the Grand Canal in Venice. Joy M 6. Flying in a Viking Cruises’ helicopter over Antigua and the still-active Montserrat volcano, seeing every shade of blue and many of the 365 beaches. Jason F 7. San Juan, water fun and a traditional bar before retuning to the Aquavit Terrace for lunch on the Viking Sea. Sheila Davies 8. A fruit-carving class on the Viking Mekong. BJ Doty 9. After the ship docked, we roamed the charming streets of Bavaria. Cachaé Ward

Hit List

YOUR MESSAGES I went on my first Viking river cruise in November, on the Magnificent Mekong trip. The whole experience was magnificent.

The trips were well thought out and done at a pace that allowed us to relax while seeing many places. Our guide, Lee, was a total assest and very caring. The hotels were of a high standard, while the trips were both entertaining and educational.

This was truly THE BEST holiday I have experienced and I have already booked a tour for next year.

Did I mention Lee, oh, of course, I did, worth his weight in gold: gentle, organised, well informed and knowledgeable. Thank you.

Gwyneth Roper

My husband, Joe, and I sailed on the amazing Douro trip in November last year. As always, everything was first class and we can’t wait for our Rhine cruise, when we will be celebrating our Golden Wedding Anniversary.

Sue Ewins We loved all the entertainers on Viking Sea last December, but the one that got us both up dancing was The Beatles’ tribute band.

Michael Oakes We like all kinds of music and my darling wife, Katie, loves to sing at home so it was very special that Vince and Jennifer invited her on

stage to sing with them. This was our first cruise and was a truly memorable holiday. Thanks to all the entertainers for great shows.

Andy Colley Travelling with you around Italy with three others in April. Looking forward to meeting the crew. I am sure they will be as delightful as the other crews we have met previously.

Maureen Daley We’ll soon be flying to Spain for the Iconic Western Mediterranean. In October, it’ll be the Rhine. Next up will be the Douro. 2020 could see us in Alaska.

Eileen North

West Indies in February and then my husband’s surprise for me! And then next year Alaska!!

Collette Metcalf Just booked our first Viking trip on the Danube.

Can’t wait!

Katherine Willis

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Paradise Found With spectacular scenery, lively cultural highlights and a memorable stay on Viking Sea, travel writer Anthony Pearce feasts on the riches of the West Indies

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White-sand beaches and tranquil bays were among the highlights of the West Indies Explorer

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n the Caribbean, life quickly settles into a gentle rhythm. Long, slow days are spent lazing by the sea, meandering through historic port towns, exploring the lush green countryside, and indulging in rum and incredible food – life back in England is but a distant memory.

It’s not just the region that induces calm, but the tranquil, elegant Viking Sea, one of Viking’s fleet of ocean-going ships that we join in Puerto Rico.

We arrive, a little jet-lagged after our flight from London, to find smiling, helpful staff, a bottle of wine and midnight snack awaiting us. During our 11-day West Indies itinerary, we will take in an envy-inducing list of postcard-perfect islands: Barbados, St. Martin, St. Thomas, Guadeloupe and more.

We wake on our first morning, head to Mamsen’s, the ship’s Scandinavian-style café, which serves beautiful Norwegian waffles, before heading out to explore San Juan, the island’s capital.

Puerto Rico has been a US territory since 1898, but, save for the ubiquitous stars-and-stripes, you might not know it. In the city’s charming Old Town, Spanish influence strongly remains: cobblestone streets and

In the Old Town, Spanish influence remains: cobblestone streets and colourful colonial buildings Clockwise, from above: Great views

TOP TIPS FOR THE CARIBBEAN

• Viking includes a guided tour

each day, but sometimes you may want to wander, or head to the beach – often within walking distance. If you need a taxi, fares are regulated, so you won’t be overcharged.

Understanding the history, culture and people of the region will greatly increase your enjoyment. The Caribbean may be made up of beach paradises, but it also has a fascinating past to learn about, too.

The cuisine, which takes in African, Creole, Cajun, French, Spanish and Portuguese influences, is varied and delicious, changing from island to island.

Don’t go home without tucking in!

•

•

from Viking Sea as it traverses the azure waters of the Caribbean sea; fresh tropical fruits in a local market; admire the lush, green islands gently dotted with an array of yachts; the old city of San Juan is full of vibrant architecture and narrow streets

colourful colonial buildings, reds, blues and greens, are overlooked by an 18th-century fort, the imposing Castillo de San Cristóbal, from where the first cannon was fired in the Spanish-American War. It’s a fascinating introduction to the Caribbean – a bustling, lively start in contrast to the quiet paradises we are soon to explore.

That night, we sail for the British Virgin Islands, and arrive on a sun-drenched Sunday morning when the island feels deserted. There’s not a soul on the white-sand beach, but, we soon discover, the churches are full; the wind carrying the gospel sounds of hallelujah down to the front.

With the ship docked so nearby, lunch options are endless: food on board at the World Café, Restaurant or Pool Grill, or freshly caught seafood, such as lobster, wahoo or mahi mahi, ashore. In this heat, the ship’s air conditioning is often too much of pull.

In the evening, we eat in one of Viking Sea’s speciality restaurants, Manfredi’s, an Italian grill, where indulgence reigns. I opt for a creamy carbonara starter and the porcini dry-rubbed rib-eye for main. It may already be the most famous – and the best – steak served at sea. With the Silver Spirtis drinks package, we are able to pick from the premium wine list, so opt for a spicy French syrah.

It’s amazing to think that this – and the Chef ’s Table – are included in the price. It’s the latter, where we dine later in the week, that serves up the meal of the cruise – an innovative Venetian set menu with wine pairings.

The next day, we take our first optional tour with Viking: a scenic railway tour around St. Kitts, which includes the former planation fields, black-sand beaches and Caribbean and Atlantic seas; the former

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PHOTOS: © ANTHONY PEARCE/GETTY IMAGES

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THE KITCHEN TABLE EXPERIENCE Join your onboard chef for an exclusive, tailor-made culinary adventure. A shore excursion with a difference… you’ll visit the local market in your port of call in the morning, to shop for regional produce and learn more about the country’s cuisine. Later that day, you’ll visit your ship’s private test kitchen to prepare the ingredients you bought earlier, and learn how to pair wine with the on-board sommelier.

Best of all, you’ll enjoy an incredible feast to remember!

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T R AV E L

PHOTOS: © ISTOCK

barely stirring, the latter crashing against the shore.

The tracks – now used to ferry tourists merry on 150-proof rum – were once used for transporting sugarcane during the days of the slave trade.

In St. Lucia, we spend the morning on the beach before taking another optional tour, heading on an aerial tram into the island’s dense rainforest, where there are around 600 types of plants, trees and shrubs per acre. Here, châtaignier trees loom over giant ferns and knotted, twisting Tarzan vines hang.

Each destination is different: Barbados is lively and luxurious (particularly on its exclusive Platinum coast); Antigua is bustling and busy in St. John’s, the capital city, and breathtakingly beautiful away from the port; St. Thomas is the definition of paradise.

While the white-sand beaches and turquoise bays, beautiful as they are, are expected, what’s striking is how green the islands are, away from the front.

It’s a varied region that offers so much; music, adventure, incredible beaches and watersports, yet each island destination features its own distinct culture and cuisine. With so many shore excursions on offer, and so much scenery to admire from the ship, we are spoilt for choice when it comes to exploring this special region.

It’s a spectacular itinerary, illustrating why the Caribbean is rightly the most popular cruise destination in the world. And this is the perfect way to experience it.

Clockwise, from top left: The main

pool and sun deck of Viking Sea is a haven for relaxation; guests enjoy the scenic railway excursion on St. Kitts; a typical tropical flower of the region; the brilliantly coloured historic buildings of San Juan

An 11-day West Indies Explorer cruise starting and finishing in San Juan, Puerto Rico, starts at £2,490pp, departing on selected dates in 2019. vikingcruises.co.uk SPR ING 2018 | VIKINGCRUISES.CO.UK

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C U LT U R E

Food for thought Brighton-based artist Kate Jenkins’ knitted artwork is a firm favourite on Viking ships. She tells Kate Finney more about her food-inspired creations

Clockwise, from facing page:

PHOTOS: © EMMA WOOD/ALUN CALLENDER

Kate Jenkins at work in her Brighton studio; Sardines on Toast, an original artwork

by Kate Jenkins

How did you start knitting and crocheting food?

would usually see. It looked so real that people were really doing a double take.

At the other end of the scale, tins of sardines are popular, and sushi, too. I’ve made lots of Scandinavian open sandwiches featuring lots of prawns. It takes about an hour to knit a prawn or a sardine, and then I embellish them with sequins and beads.

What’s the biggest thing you’ve made?

How did your creative partnership with Viking come about?

I was actually making fashion accessories when I decided to knit a full English breakfast and people loved it so much. I found I was good at making things look realistic. In essence, I wanted to stand out and grab people’s attention and it has ended up taking me down a whole new career path.

I knitted an entire fish counter from scratch – it was massive! I had the idea in my head, and visited different fish markets all over the world – like those in Tokyo, Copenhagen, and Billinsgate in London – for inspiration. It was an interactive exhibition so I was dressed as a fishmonger, and people could come to buy a piece from the fish counter, which we would then frame on a plate. I made lobster, mussels, cockles, salmon, flat fish, plaice, kippers… everything you

The company got in touch with me after seeing my work in a gallery on Charlotte Street in London.

It took a year or two to get the go-ahead, but my work is now featured on three ships, and I’m working on pieces for the fourth, the new ocean ship, Viking Sun. I love that my work is floating around the world!

And that people are eating their breakfast looking at crocheted versions of their food!

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So many people commission me after seeing my work on board, so it’s been a really interesting collaboration. One Viking customer from New York commissioned me to make a crocheted, handembroidered Mahjong set of playing tiles for his wife for Valentine’s Day. I’d never done them before, but I loved it. I like to think my work inspires people to think of creating a personal, one-of-a-kind piece.

You love to travel, but how do your trips inspire your work?

I’m always looking for places to source sequins – India is amazing for that. I can’t even begin to guess how many different sequins I use! I have a huge range of metallic, opalescent, and iridescent sequins for fish scales. And so much yarn as well! Japan is best for beads – the caviar I create for my canapés is made from 22

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black beads from Japan, and I also have the perfect beads to make a pinky-red fish roe.

What kind of food inspires you most?

I turned vegetarian this year – but I haven’t stopped making fish! I’m now obsessed with vegetables and cheese; I can’t stop thinking about how to make feta cheese look interesting! It probably needs a Greek salad… I’m good at tomatoes and cucumber, so I’m nearly there! I’m inspired by food from all over the world, so I’m thinking of “around the world in 80 dishes” as an exhibition theme.

How did you learn to knit so well?

My mum and my grandmother were always knitting and making things for me and my sister when I was growing up. We lived in the Rhymney Valley in South

C U LT U R E

I’m now working on my next exhibition which is opening in November in New York. I’ll be creating a knitted and crocheted record store. And I love random requests because they take me out of my comfort What are you working on at the moment? zone. For example, I’ve been I’m currently working on muscles for a ski pieces for one of the newest I love food and I really enjoy embroidering company, to illustrate parts of Viking ships, Viking Orion. cooking, but I think I prefer the body you use while skiing!

I’m making crab and chilli linguine, a bouillabaisse that knitting it to cooking it I have renamed “woolabaise”, Do you prefer to cook your food or crochet it? a lobster bisque, cocktails and canapés, seafood spaghetti and a Scandinavian open I love food and really enjoy cooking, but I think I sandwich. Last year, I created a range of Christmas prefer knitting it to cooking it…Cooking always seems decorations for the fashion and homewares store so time-consuming in comparison to knitting! But Anthropologie. I made a ‘fishmas tree’, a lobster I guess they are both a labour of love! holding misteltoe in his pincers, and a skewer of katejenkinsstudio.co.uk prawns which I called ‘We Three King Prawns’.

See Kate’s work on board all Viking ocean ships.

Wales and were always encouraged to make things, even as children.

Clockwise, from facing page:

The incredible fish counter created

by Kate Jenkins for an exhibition; artwork on display on Viking Sea; Cocktails and Canapés, Sardines on Toast, and Knitnoise Salad

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Food, glorious food In a new Reader Recommended survey of Good Housekeeping magazine readers, Viking scores high praise for delicious food and relaxed dining experiences

Clockwise from above: Dining on

board is both elegant and relaxed, with panoramic views changing every day to set the scene for memorable meals; artistic presentation provides the finishing touches to each and every one of our meals; The Restaurant on the Viking Longships

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antastic cuisine is an essential proud of. When asked about details factor in rating a restaurant. At ingredient on any cruise. of their dining experience, those Viking, we have more than 5,000 At Viking, we champion surveyed in the Good Housekeeping of our own staff worldwide, all freshness, excellent service Reader Recommended survey dedicated to making your journey and quality the most memorable produce across The food has always been excellent with Viking. experience possible. our fleet of From the moment There are many choices of hot or cold dishes and you first plan your ocean and river ships. So to the time you there are plenty of food from which to choose trip we are thrilled return home, our to have been people take care of recommended by (Good Housekeeping Reader you, every step of the way. They Good Housekeeping readers.

Recommended survey, 2017, 159 are the reason why Viking has A highly regarded endorsement, readers) said they loved the relaxed won more consumer and industry the Reader Recommended initiative ambience of Viking’s restaurants awards than any other river cruise draws on the expertise of Good and not having to dress formally. line. And why respondents in Housekeeping magazine combined They praised the fact that there the survey described Viking staff with the opinions of their readers. was plenty of fresh food options, as “amazing”, “excellent” and In short, it means you can trust reporting that meals tasted “knowledgeable”. the quality of a Viking cruise, and both delicious and authentic.

One reader even described it’s an endorsement we are very Service is also an important the service in our restaurants as

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PROMOTION

having “very friendly waiting staff who knew a lot about the dishes they were serving”. Meanwhile, others pointed out the variety and choice of food available: “The food has always been excellent. Many choices of hot or cold dishes. Plenty of food from which to choose.”

Another reader summed up the Viking dining experience by commenting: “We’re going on another river trip next (our fifth).

We looked at other companies and prices, however, we decided to return to Viking because the standard is so good and the restaurants are excellent.” (Good Housekeeping Reader Recommended survey, 2017, 159 readers)

that it’s just another one of those little things that mean a lot.

You’ll enjoy a sumptuous breakfast that’s as hearty or healthy as you like, with dishes cooked to order, fresh pastries, homemade jams, muesli and fresh fruit.

Choose lunch on board from the many courses in the restaurant to something lighter in the lounge.

And if you’re travelling on a Viking Longship, you can eat alfresco on the Aquavit Terrace.

At dinner, indulge in a multi-course meal in the ambient restaurant.

Free-flowing wine (on the house, of course) perfectly complements the laughter and conversation,

set against the shimmering backdrop of the river.

VINTAGE APPEAL

Of course, the best food calls for the best wines, and Viking’s generosity of spirit extends naturally into our restaurants, with complimentary wines served with lunch and dinner.

With the emphasis on relaxation, there is nothing formal about our restaurants, or our dress code. Smart casual works for us and, more importantly, for you.

Wear what you love. Sit where you want. Eat what you like. It’s all about choice.

FOOD TO DINE FOR

At Viking we love to celebrate good food and make every meal one to remember.

On board our ocean ships we pride ourselves not just on the quality of our food, but also on our choice of restaurants. We offer a wide range of alfresco dining areas, all serving complimentary wine and beer with lunch and dinner.

If it’s a table for two, or for 12, that you require, we have the perfect choice for you.

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FROM RUSSIA with love A cruise along the Waterways of the Tsars is a journey into the heart and soul of this enormous country, discovers David Short

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St. Petersburg, we were superbly attended to by the most engaging guides and staff right up until we were dropped off at the airport in Moscow 13 days later.

It turned out that we had embarked on not just a sightseeing cruise but a journey of discovery into the heart, mind and soul of Russia. We were free to explore St. Petersburg and Moscow, several small towns and villages in between and even to meet Russians at home.

There was also an opportunity to visit a kommunalka – a communal apartment for several families.

Left to right:

The impressive Church of Our Saviour on Spilled Blood in St. Petersburg; traditional Russian matryoshka dolls

We travellers were a mixed, international bunch. We were keen to ask our hosts all manner of questions. Some of us were very well informed and eagerly explored various topics, including political issues. And our Russian hosts didn’t sidestep any questions.

The ship was a very comfortable base for the duration of our journey, as well as our gentle transportation along idyllic rivers, lakes and canals between the two.

Our first day in St. Petersburg began following an extensive breakfast and consisted of a full

PHOTOS: © ISTOCK

ust outside Leningrad on a hot day in May 1969, during the Cold War, my friend and I found ourselves being berated by an armed and a very angry security official. He had stopped us for driving our Mini on the wrong, unauthorised road. After a lot of gesticulating and shouting, we were made to clean our car with a dry cloth, and ordered to keep to our authorised route.

This time, on a Viking river cruise, we found that Russia was much more agreeable. From the moment we arrived in what is now

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day’s tour of the best of the three million artworks in the Hermitage Museum. These include works

by Titian, Matisse, Van Gogh, Cézanne, Gauguin, Leonardo da Vinci, Picasso, Monet and Rubens.

The visit was followed by dinner and a performance of Tchaikovsky’s ballet, Swan Lake. It was after

guided around just about every well-known church, monument and museum there is, including the Peter and Paul Fortress. This is the original epicentre of the city, and many former tsars are now laid to rest in the cathedral, including the relatively recently reinterred remains of the assassinated last tsar,

PHOTOS: © ISTOCK/ALAMY

During our stay in St. Petersburg, we were dazzled by the opulence of Russia’s rulers and the sheer extravagance of the palaces 11pm when we arrived back on board, but Viking was ready with a substantial late-night snack, including wine and beer as they do for all normal lunches and dinners.

During our stay in St. Petersburg, we were dazzled by the opulence of Russia’s rulers and the sheer extravagance of the palaces: the Winter Palace; the Amber Room in the Catherine Palace; the ‘Royal Village’ at Pushkin; and the extraordinary UNESCO World Heritage Site of Peterhof Palace.

After four eye-popping days in St. Petersburg it felt as if we’d been

Nicholas II, and his family. Another highlight was the private viewing of the Carl Fabergé collection, chief among which is the group of nine exquisite imperial Easter eggs.

To cap off our final day in this remarkable city, we enjoyed a loud and lively Cossack Folk song-anddance performance with a drop of vodka. Naturally.

Our sojourn in St. Petersburg was hectic but not arduous, and we were continually informed about every aspect of Russian life, its complex history and detailed facts about all the places we visited.

Clockwise, from facing page:

The impressive State Hermitage Museum in St.Peterburg; delicious vodka Moscow Mules; the adorned Amber Room at the Catherine Palace, in Tsarskoye Selo

Before dinner each evening, there was a full briefing about what to expect the following day, which was most useful. In addition, the ship’s newsletter, Viking Daily, was delivered to our room.

By contrast, the next few days were a tranquil meander along the River Neva, across the 136-milelong Lake Ladoga (Europe’s largest), with its 700 islands and along the 139-mile Svir River towards Lake Onega.

Before we reached this lake, we stopped briefly at Mandrogy, a small, restored 18th-century settlement that is home to artisans creating all manner of crafts using ancient methods and horse-drawn transport. Here, you can buy genuine hand-crafted souvenirs or even create your own by painting matryoshka nesting dolls. If that’s not for you, there are 2,800 vodkas to try followed by a visit to a banya, a traditional Russian bath house.

Back on board, we headed to Kizhi, one of Lake Onega’s 1,650 islands, a mere speck, measuring four miles by just over half a mile.

Several generations of families

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The famous Grand Cascade water feature, in front of Peterhof Palace in St. Petersburg

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lived and worked on the island in wooden two-storey homes. Their lives were tough in summer and tougher in winter. Today, Kizhi is essentially a museum dedicated to its stunning wooden churches, and dozens of 15- to 20thcentury wooden structures. The most remarkable is the 22-dome Transfiguration Church and the nine-dome Intercession Church, both of which are UNESCO World Heritage Sites. After Kizhi, our ship began its southerly journey towards Red Square and the Kremlin via the Volga-Baltic Waterway and the Moscow Canal.

As we cruised in brilliant summer sunshine over the calm blue lake waters with distant fir-tree lined shores, life continued on board with entertainment, demonstrations, Russian language lessons and lectures.

There was a brief pause at Kuzino to visit the 1397 KirilloBelozersky Monastery and the Resurrection Convent, a huge building with 23-foot thick walls.

Next stop Yaroslavl, an old city of about 600,000 inhabitants, which sits 170 miles from Moscow at the confluence of the rivers Volga and Kotorosi. A UNESCO

Following an active sightseeing sojourn in St. Petersburg, the next few days were a tranquil meander along the River Neva

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World Heritage Site, it is one of the eight Golden Ring Cities that were important in the establishing of the Orthodox Church and are so rich in historical architecture that they

explored the stunning, efficient metro system and its famous decorated stations, took in a folk music concert, picnicked in a park, cruised the Moscow River and, of

To cap off our final day in this remarkable city, we enjoyed a lively Cossack folk song-and-dance performance with vodka are regarded as open-air museums.

The next morning, as we sailed serenely by all the identifying landmarks of any large modern city, I had a light breakfast in the Panorama lounge at the front of the ship with its uninterrupted views. I was most struck by the huge and numerous modern highrise apartment buildings.

We arrived in Moscow after lunch and, over the next few days,

course, we couldn’t miss Red Square and a guided tour inside the walls of the Kremlin on our last day.

Viking includes virtually every ‘must-see’ aspect of Moscow with additional opportunities to visit the fascinating Cosmonaut Museum, the Jewish Museum, the Moscow State Circus and the Tretyakov State Gallery. What’s more, our guide, Sasha, came with us on our two-hour journey past more huge

apartment blocks to the modern airport and smoothed our way through what seemed like chaos.

Overall, our Russian river cruise was a relaxing and hugely stimulating experience.

One of our most striking memories might seem odd: the cleanliness – even in Moscow.

No packaging, cigarette butts or chewing gum littered the streets and our guides found it hard to comprehend that people in the West will casually drop their litter.

Now when we see discarded street rubbish at home, we find ourselves saying, ‘it wouldn’t be like that in Moscow’. Oh, and it’s still illegal to have a dirty car in Russia.

A 13-day Waterways of the Tsars cruise starts from £2,795pp, departing in May 2019. vikingcruises.com

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PHOTOS: © ISTOCK/GETTY IMAGES

St. Basil’s Cathedral in Moscow’s Red Square

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Travel TIPS Real Russia

Our intrepid readers share the highlights of their Russian river voyages with Viking

REGAL RIVERS

My husband and I went on the Waterways of the Tsars river cruise last September. I always travel with a sketch book and take advantage of any spare time, even if it’s only five minutes. The sketches mean a lot to me. Because I observe more when I’m drawing, I can remember sounds, smells, temperature and people who talk to me. It’s addictive, and I love it! Carol Birchall

“Take lots of photos. Wear comfy shoes. Look up. Don’t bother to shop till you dock in St. Petersburg.

This cruise was simply amazing!”

Jo Chisholm

“We did this in September 2015.

It is still my favourite, having done four river cruises. The ships are lovely. It was wonderful eating buffet lunch on the sun deck as we sailed. Would do it again.”

Eileen North

“Our first-ever Viking river cruise from Moscow to St. Petersburg.

Fantastic memories. Standing on deck at 2am in ‘daylight’ going through our first lock. Thoroughly recommended. We did several more cruises with Viking. I am now on my own and am going to France to visit Lyon and Provence later in the year.” Patricia Rodriguez

FAST FACTS CAPITAL CITY: Moscow, which is also Russia’s largest city.

CURRENCY: The Russian Ruble has been in circulation for approximately 500 years.

AREA: Russia is the largest country in the world in terms of territory, measuring 6,601,668 square miles.

LANGUAGE: Russian is the official language throughout the country, but there are 35 other languages in different regions of Russia, and more than 100 minority languages.

POPULATION: The 2010 census (released in 2011) reported that the official population of Russia was 142.9 million, but the current estimate for 2018 is around 143.96 million.

“Having recently returned, I would say embrace every opportunity, as what you think may not be for you may turn out to be the highlight of the cruise.”

Tracey Ashton

“Have just booked for May 2019. We have been to St. Petersburg on the Viking Homelands cruise and loved it, so really looking forward to seeing it all again and continuing on to Moscow.” Chris Purnell “We ventured into St. Petersburg on our own via Metro and local bus on second day. I thoroughly recommend doing this as we found Russian locals so warm and friendly.” Diane Luxton

FOR LITTLE ONES…

Our very own Karine Hagen has penned a children’s book featuring the adventures of her golden labrador, Finse.

It’s the perfect introduction to a fascinating country!

The World of Finse books are available to buy on board our ships.

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Spring is in the air From food to flowers, Paul Hervey-Brookes, the award-winning designer, shares his tips for gardening success this season

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pring is such a special time of year! The yearning to be out gardening can be finally realised and in a few short weeks you can be harvesting home-grown vegetables from the tiniest plot and enjoying a wealth of spring garden richness.

Even the smallest garden or balcony can grow something edible, a stylish galvanised trough can make a wonderful micro salad and herb garden. Spring is the ideal time to plant and the wonderful thing with micro crops is that you can be tasting them within two weeks. Try beetroot, radish and pea shoots combined with mixed-leaf lettuce for a really wonderful crop.

Micro crops pack lots of flavour; really, they are the seedlings of adult vegetables and cut herbs – so think of them as a concentrated essence.

They look wonderful and add vibrant colours as well as bursts of flavour in your dishes. The great thing about micro crops is you 34

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can germinate the seeds without a garden – an inexpensive seed jar will do the trick. If you have any leftover packets of things like chard and lettuce, this is a great way to use them up. Sow in the usual fashion and within 10 days you will begin to see seedlings germinate.

Allow them to begin to form their first pair of true leaves and harvest!

Top to bottom:

Mixing vegetables and flowers creates an eclectic look; micro beets and herbs can provide the finishing touch for a seasonal dish

GARDENING

OUT

& ABOUT

Spring really gives us the itch to be more active and the great thing about gardening is it keeps your body supple and your mind active. If you fancy a day of inspiration look out for a new garden to visit. Many gardeners are inspired by travel so you could be scrambling through Himalayan birch, Hamamelis and Daphne hillsides or soaking up the sun on a Mediterranean terrace. These are three of my favourites:

THE HAROLD PETO GARDEN, IFORD MANOR, WILTSHIRE Architectural features, statues and pools combined with terracing and plants give this Italian-style garden a delightful feel, and the stunning views down over the valley are a bonus. ifordmanor.co.uk

PLANTING TIPS FOR SPRING

• Glazed pots and hand-thrown

terracotta give a real sense of luxury in the garden and often, if chosen wisely, remind us of far-flung adventures.

Place different sized pots out to decorate your terrace, and plant up with spring bulbs such as tall-growing, late-flowering Fritillaria persica and parrot tulips for a rich display.

Combine this with more permanent plantings of hardy herbaceous perennials such as Agapanthus, or small growing shrubs with rich colours like Lophomyrtus. These displays near the house will bring instant cheer and allow you to tackle the rest of the garden as you wish, rather than as a chore!

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DOROTHY CLIVE GARDEN, SHROPSHIRE Carved from an old quarry, the peaceful gardens include impressive herbaceous borders, an area of woodland, and a series of different seasonal walks, all more lovely than the last. dorothyclivegarden.co.uk

PHOTOS: © ISTOCK/GETTY IMAGES/ALAMY

FRESH FROM THE DECK Look out for the organic herb garden on board the Viking Longships.

Located on the open-air Sun Deck, the aromatic gardens are home to a variety of herbs used in the Viking kitchens. A lovely place for a stroll and an innovative move to grow fresh produce on the move!

WOLLERTON OLD HALL, SHROPSHIRE Set around a 16th-century hall, you’ll find four acres of elaborate and intensely cultivated gardens. Bursting with design ideas, this exuberant garden is a treasure trove. wollertonoldhallgarden.com

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RHS membership Explore More readers – join from only £40.75* for exclusive access to RHS Flower Shows and more Visit rhs.org.uk/join/4026 Call 020 3176 5820 quoting ‘4026’

*Introductory Explore More offer is valid until 1/7/2018. Terms and conditions apply. Image: RHS / Joanna Kossak.

Phone lines are open weekdays 9am-5pm, excluding bank holidays . RHS Registered Charity No. 222879/SC038262

Save 25% plus an extra £5 off today*

COLUMN

ON LOCATION with Karine As Senior Vice President of Viking, Karine Hagen is constantly on the move. Here she shares her latest adventures, news and tips

Historic Verona

PACK LIKE A PRO

I’ve been exploring the delights of Verona, most famous for being the setting of Romeo and Juliet, and it is my new favourite Italian city. The old town is pedestrianised, and full of charming houses, shops and small restaurants, and it has a lovely ambience. Soon we will be incorporating Verona and Lake Como as a new pre- or post-cruise extension.

I’ve become very good at living out of suitcases over the past few years!

Here are some of my packing tricks that can maximise space and order, while minimising wrinkles:

•Roll your clothes: the clothes crease •

Strolling through the old town of Verona, Italy

Meal of the moment

It has to be risotto! It is just like soufflé, once you have the base you can make any variety: mushroom, seafood and sausage are my current choices.

Go online: www. exploringmore. com/video/ risotto-lake-como

My favourite bag and luggage brand hands down is Longchamp. The bags themselves weigh very little, they last forever, and I think look nice, too! longchamp.com

less, and somehow seem to take up less space in your suitcase.

Keep plenty of zip lock bags: the large-sized, heavy-duty, transparent kind, that are easy to find in the US, less so in Europe. Great for organising cosmetics, and anything else that leaks! Or look out for little pouches and travel bags.

Jiffy e-steamer: without question the best travel steamer out there and recommended by a stylist friend who has tried them all. Simple to use, it works all over the world, and de-creases your clothes in seconds.

Placing a sheet of Bounce (fabric softener) in your bag helps to keep your clothes cling-free and smelling fresh.

•

•

I’m reading...

Prue Leith’s Relish is a refreshingly honest account of her life, work and loves. It is a fascinating book. quercusbooks.co.uk

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THE CALL OF THE OCEAN Award-winning magazine editor Sue James thought ocean cruising wasn’t for her, until she jumped on board Viking Star in Rome earlier this year…

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Left to right: The

Infinity Pool offers mesmerising views of the ocean; the tranquil interiors create a calming atmosphere on board Viking Star

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Facing page, clockwise from top left: Manfredi’s

Italian restaurant on Viking Star; delicious worldfusion food; a selection of fresh fish and shellfish; the sumptuous spa; a marvellous mussel dish; experience the Nordic wellness sanctuary; the light and airy Explorer’s Lounge; wood-fired pizza Margherita; columns of temples in Pompeii

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y first ocean cruise was a long time coming. Mainly because the thought of being confined on a ship with lots of people I didn’t know and a strict schedule wouldn’t be my type of holiday. Yet, working with experts in the travel industry and hearing stories of so many fabulous and exotic new cruises, I knew that things had changed. ‘There’s a ship for everyone’, friends told me.

‘They’re great value’, said another.

Plus, with itineraries as varied as taking in Alaska, the Northern Lights, Bangkok and Bali, Russia or Budapest on rivers and at sea – as well as so many fabulous things to do on board, I decided to take the plunge. Still cautious, I booked one of the shorter voyages (eight days around Italy, Spain and the Balearics) with my husband, Mike.

The reason we’re cruise virgins is simple – we’ve always preferred our holidays to be freewheeling and adventurous. We rarely booked anything other than the flight, a car and a villa. So the thought of being herded on board and waving goodbye to our independence worried us… at first! But, from the minute we landed in Rome, our luggage was looked after by the ever-attentive Viking staff and we were whisked off to our ship.

PHOTOS: © GETTY IMAGES/ISTOCK

ORGANISED BLISS

In fact, the whole embarkation process was impressively efficient.

No tempers frayed in the rental car about the best way to get to our ‘peaceful’ villa, which often turned out to be up a mountain. We were surprised by how happy we were being ushered along with a cold flannel and bottle of chilled water.

Viking Star is, in cruise ship terms, a relatively small ship holding just over 900 passengers and 400 crew, who were all – from the officers to the bar staff – friendly and welcoming. Inside it is light and airy with Nordic and Scandinavian design influences, much like a smart boutique hotel.

Once on board – as if by magic – our luggage had found its way

to our stateroom (Viking’s name for cabins) and we were given time to relax and get to know our new surroundings. There was a complimentary pull-out chilled drinks ‘drawer’, which I’d never seen before, as well as our own private balcony.

Needless to say we settled in quickly. Our only interruption was a visit from our stateroom attendant, Kanya, who explained that she was there not just to turn the bed down but to make our life easier.

Taking her at her word, we asked for a kettle (there was a coffee machine but we like a cuppa in the morning), and within minutes we had one delivered to the room with a selection of green tea for me. So far, so wonderful. Then, instead of spending hours and

which surprised me about ocean cruising was how much there is to do on board.

Wellness is a big part of the Viking ethos, whether it’s being pampered in the Nordic Spa or doing one of the yoga or pilates classes. I booked a wonderful Swedish Mindful Massage, which left me so relaxed I floated back to my stateroom and had another snooze! There’s shopping on board, a library and a nightly entertainment schedule with something for everyone – from a Beatles night to opera and a ‘movie under the stars’.

The choices were so many and so varied that they made freewheeling look pedestrian. And I haven’t even mentioned the fascinating talks by the resident

Someone had done all the hard work, leaving us free to personalise our itinerary, safe in the knowledge that all the choices were good hours researching what to do, we simply relaxed in our cabin with a G&T, sat back and checked our interactive television screen.

The five restaurants looked fab, plus there were cafés and grill bars that were all included. The only two restaurants you had to reserve were Manfredi’s (offering authentic Italian food) and the The Chef ’s Table (serving unique tasting menus). We immediately booked both, which were also included in the overall cost.

Excursions (which you can book before but, of course, we didn’t) include city tours such as ‘Snapshots of Rome’ or ‘Panoramic Cagliari’ all built into your cruise price. There’s other more specific tours which aren’t like the ‘Xativa; Home of the Borgias’ tour to discover Mallorcan Wine in Palma.

We booked the Pompeii tour for an additional £58 each and loved every minute.

Of course you can just leave the ship and do your own thing – the only ‘constraint’ is you have to be back by a given time. Another thing

and guest lecturers… In short, there is both so much and so little to do – the choice is yours! Far from taking away our independence, cruising gave us more. The difference being that someone had done all the hard work, leaving us free to personalise our itinerary safe in the knowledge that all the choices were good.

We even went to the Captain’s welcome drinks, which were fun rather than cringeworthy. Another pre-conception busted.

LIFE ON BOARD

Nothing at all is compulsory except making your way to the designated evacuation area on board and donning a lifejacket in the emergency drill. Our fellow guests ranged in age from 40s to 70-plus and I soon discovered that most were (unlike myself and Mike) serious cruisers! They absolutely loved regaling us with their colourful tales of life at sea, while asking us what we thought about Meghan (Markle, that is!). But you can also choose SPR ING 2018 | VIKINGCRUISES.CO.UK

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Clockwise, from facing page:

Pastel-coloured architecture on the Island of Procida, on the Bay of Naples; a welcome espresso martini; the old streets of Palma, Majorca

whether to socialise or not. In the restaurants, there are tables for 12 or for two and you can have 24-hour room service. So, yes, for one week we shared ‘our’ ship with 900 others, but it never felt busy, noisy or overcrowded. Everyone was far more courteous than they would have been in the outside world – how refreshing!

CULINARY DELIGHTS

Being a bit of a foodie, I was also worried that the on-board options wouldn’t live up to our expectations. I was wrong. You’ll never go hungry on a Viking cruise and can either choose to indulge – in delicious desserts or High Tea – or go lite and have a healthy salad from one of the drop-in bars.

The house wine was very quaffable (and free), or you can order from the excellent wine list if you fancy

pushing the boat out! The fivecourse tasting and wine pairing menu we had at The Chef ’s Table (good value at approximately £18 extra) was a great foodie experience, just as impressive as any leading restaurant in London.

One of our other ‘cruise fears’ was going on group excursions along with lots of other people.

We did five excursions, mostly the short ‘discover the city’ ones, and ended up enjoying being in a group because we were always with different people and found ourselves making new friends.

The benefits here were the expert guides, who also had a great sense of humour and storytelling ability.

Who knew that the first Margherita pizza was made in Naples during the late 1800s for Queen Margherita in the colours of the Italian flag – red (tomato), white

(mozzarella) and green (basil)!

We did do our own thing, too, (some habits are hard to break) and drank Marsala in Palermo with the locals and ate tapas at the covered fish market in Palma.

Back on board, if we weren’t drinking espresso martinis in the cocktail bar listening to Sinatra classics, we were taking in one of the shows, going to the movies or just chilling in our stateroom.

So will we cruise again? The answer is definitely ‘yes’. We found plenty of the kind of freewheeling adventure we love in a holiday both on and off board. So the question now is simply where to cruise to next…?

An 8-day Southern Mediterranean Discovery cruise, from Rome to Barcelona, starts at £2,090pp. vikingcruises.co.uk

THROW THESE OCEAN CRUISE CLICHES OVERBOARD

• It wasn’t compulsory to do anything, it’s

up to you what you join in with – or not.

Time at sea isn’t boring. I loved sitting on my balcony with a glass of wine and a good book – perfect. Plus you wake up at a new port every day.

You don’t have to share tables with anyone – although we often talked happily with couples or groups.

PHOTOS: © ISTOCK

• •

•Evening dress wasn’t expected -

so no ball gowns or DJ’s required (a great relief to Mike), but I still enjoyed putting on some heels and sparkle in the evening.

I became obsessed with reading the Viking Daily newsletter which is delivered to your stateroom every day. It was my secret pleasure!

•

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2–8 July 2018

Preview Evening 2 July • RHS Members’ Days 3 & 4 July ICONIC SUMMER BEDS BY PIET OUDOLF SPECTACULAR VERBENA PLANTING COMMUNITY GARDEN • RHS KITCHEN GARDEN LIFESTYLE GARDENS • EVOLUTION OF PLANTS FESTIVAL OF ROSES • CELEBRITY TALKS SUPERB SHOPPING • WORKSHOPS UK INTERFLORA FLORIST OF THE YEAR FINALS

Book at rhs.org.uk/hamptoncourt Supported by

Readers of Explore More save £2 on advance public day tickets Book online or call 0844 995 9664* and quote VIK18. *Calls cost 7p per minute plus network extras

RHS Registered Charity No: 222879/SC038262

RHS Hampton Court Palace Flower Show

T R AV E L

LIGHTWEIGHT SCARF £22.50 WHITE STUFF

Small enough to fit in a tote bag for shore excursions, or to throw around your shoulders in the evening

JOULES PACK AWAY WATERPROOF PARKA £44.95 JOHN LEWIS

Keep this tiny yet essential raincoat on you at all times thanks to its handy fold-away pouch

TE LUGGAGE RANGE FROM SAMSONI

PANASONIC LUMIX TZ100 £509 JESSOPS

The new camera to travel with.

It has a brilliant zoom lens, but still fits in your pocket

Packing

ESSENTIALS Inspired by her ocean cruise, Sue James shares her best travel buys

LANCASTER SUN SPORT WET SKIN SPF30 £25 DEBENHAMS

You can apply this invisible mist to wet or dry skin so it’s perfect for you and your partner

YSL ALL-IN-ONE GLOW FOUNDATION £33.50 HOUSE OF FRASER

2018’s new superhero foundation that leaves skin glossy and cruise ready… in minutes!

ELIZABETH ARDEN EIGHT HOUR CREAM

LACE-UP TRAINERS

£26 NET-A-PORTER

Stylish and comfy, a pair of trainers are a vital on board, and ideal for sightseeing days

Apply to dry lips, cheeks or hair to soothe and smooth, a handbag must for the whole group

£35 MARKS & SPENCER

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Oversized sunglasses (£39, Oliver Bonas)

For women...

Straw bag (£40, House of Fraser)

Cashmere cardigan (£120, Pure Collection)

Celebrate the sunshine by indulging in a few SS18 trends that will go the distance. Sorbet shades, floral dresses and beach prints all make the perfect travel companions!

Sun hat (£45, Hobbs)

Here comes

Beaded clutch (£22, Dorothy Perkins)

the sun

Rose gold earrings (£70, Folli Follie)

From clever wardrobe staples to one-off holiday buys, fashion expert Amanda Start rounds up the best pieces for a voyage of a lifetime Linen top, £65, and red jeans, £50, Next

Wide-leg trousers (£45, Next)

Halterneck top (38, V by Very)

Suede sandal (£65, Oliver Bonas)

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FA S H I O N

and for men...

Pack smart separates in a mostly neutral colour palette – white linen shirts and sun hats a must

Monochrome shirt (£22, Burton)

Floral dress (£85, Laura Ashley)

Ashton Blazer (£159, Crew Clothing)

Canvas trainers (£39, Crew Clothing)

Navy chinos (£22, Next)

Midi dress (£195, Iris and Ink)

Straw Hat (£28, J by Jasper Conran, Debenhams)

Floral swimsuit (£38, Fat Face)

Boat shoes (£75, Dune)

Botanical earrings (£12.50, Marks & Spencer) Flocked holdall (£79, Marks & Spencer) SPR ING 2018 | VIKINGCRUISES.CO.UK 47

MU S I C on the

M ER I D I A N Join us for Greenwich Music Time, a six-day musical extravaganza overlooking the Thames, sponsored by Viking

iconic setting of the Old Royal Naval College, on the banks of the Thames, provides the perfect setting for a music festival

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V

iking has teamed up with Greenwich Music Time to bring you a summer of musical entertainment.

The six-day festival will take place from 3 to 8 July at the historic Old Royal Naval College on the banks of the River Thames.

Headline acts already announced include the world’s most successful classical crossover group, Il Divo, and the musical legend Tom Jones.

Also on the bill are Scottish singersongwriter Emeli Sandé, pop group Steps, and High Flying Birds, the rock band of former Oasis guitarist Noel Gallagher. With something to suit every musical taste, it promises to be a festival to remember.

“We are absolutely delighted to have Viking on board with Greenwich Music Time, said Peter Taylor, Director of Greenwich Music Time. “We have a fantastic

VIKINGCRUISES.CO.UK | SPR ING 2018

line-up planned for GMT 2018 and we look forward to working with not only international music superstars but also a cruise operator that offers arguably the most elegant of cruise holidays.”

Wendy Atkin-Smith, MD at

Viking UK, said: “We’re pleased to be partnering with Greenwich Music Time festival and offer a live music experience to Viking music lovers across the country.”

As headline sponsors of this year’s festival, Viking is also thrilled

PHOTOS: © ERIC LAIGNEL/DON LAST

Above: The

PROMOTION

WIN A VIKING CRUISE!

to be offering live music fans the chance to win an eight-day Iconic Western Mediterranean cruise for two. The lucky winner and a guest will be able to immerse themselves in Catalonian and Tuscan art, history and architecture, and will have the chance to explore Sète and Monte Carlo.

With its maritime heritage and seafaring connections, Greenwich was the perfect choice of location for Viking’s second ocean ship christening in 2015. Viking Sea, was named in a spectacular ceremony on the River Thames that featured a stunning fireworks display, cementing Viking’s relationship with the historic town. Greenwich also features in a number of Viking cruise itineraries, including Into the Midnight Sun, departing from Greenwich Pier.

The Old Royal Naval College

in Greenwich has a long and illustrious history. Designed by England’s most famous architect, Sir Christopher Wren, the buildings were built to house retired veterans of Britain’s navy.

Today, it provides an incredibly iconic setting that doubles as the perfect place in which to enjoy six nights of live music, steeped in history and culture.

Get your tickets now at greenwichmusictime.co.uk and keep an eye on your inboxes for a chance to win your tickets, courtesy of Viking.

WIN

You could win an eight-day cruise from Barcelona to Rome. Discover France’s famed southern coast and Italy’s Renaissance treasures on this unforgettable journey.

You’ll be treated to five guided tours, and all on-board meals and drinks in a choice of restaurants. There will also be free 24-hour room service, tea and coffee at any time on board, and free use of the spa facilities. You’ll be able to enjoy the cruise from the comfort of a Deluxe Veranda Stateroom, and will have the opportunity to immerse yourself in the culture of each destination through classes and performances of music, art, cooking, dance and history.

The winner will also receive two return scheduled economy-class flights from London, and all port charges, government taxes and overseas transfers will be included. The prize will be drawn in July 2018 – good luck to everyone who enters!

Visit www.GreenwichMusicTime.co.uk/Signup

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T R AV E L The Sao Jorge Castle towers over Lisbon’s impressive skyline

Discovering the Douro

The Douro River Valley in Portugal is renowned as a wine-making region, but when Sam Berry delved a little deeper she ended up on an enchanting voyage of historical discovery

PHOTO: © GETTY IMAGES

T

he tour of Lisbon started with a trip to the Tagos river bank to visit Belém Tower, a UNESCO-World Heritage Site. The informative Viking guide explained that this magnificent building, although resembling something from a fairy story, was actually used to defend Lisbon during the 14th and 15th centuries. Its highly decorative edifice contained the first example in Europe of a carved stone rhinoceros depicted on a building. But try as we might, it was a little hard to find as, over the years, the elements have worn away the rhino’s horn and it looked more like a frog!

But the next stop was a real highlight for me. If you paid attention in your secondary school history lessons, you might remember that ‘Prince Henry the Navigator’ devoted his life and fortune to encouraging exploration of the unknown world and to developing navigational instruments. The epic Monument to the Discoveries features Henry, prominently portrayed holding a model of a caravel (ship) at the head of a line of all the most famous Portuguese explorers, such as Magellan, Vasco da Gama, as well as figures representing cartographers, navigators and others who all played a part in advancing exploration in the 15th and 16th centuries.

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Henry the Navigator’s mother. She was also credited with being the brains behind the plans to explore and capture the island of Ceuta, North Africa, which began the Portuguese age of discoveries.

In front of the monument, inlaid on the ground in tiles was a Wind Rose mosaic, which showed a map of the world and the dates of Portuguese discoveries of new lands. Standing in the middle of this wonderful illustration and looking straight across the marina, holding small pleasure boats, I could see the famous Jerónimos Monastery, also a UNESCO World Heritage Site, part of which now houses the Maritime Museum.

We headed to the Maritime Museum, where one of my favourite exhibits was a ‘Map of the World’, showing the demarcation that Spain and Portugal agreed to divide up the known world in 1494; with Spain getting everything west of the line.

If you have ever wondered why Brazil is the only country in South America that speaks Portuguese, it is because the then King John II was convinced that new lands did lie to the South and West of the Azores.

In 1500, Pedro Alavares Cabral discovered Brazil and, luckily, it lay to the east of the 1494 line, meaning that Portugal could claim it.

In Lisbon, we also had the opportunity to visit a famous bakery, Pastéis de Belém, the only place in Portugal where custard tarts are allowed to be called this. Elsewhere, they have the suffix ‘de nata’. If you are prepared to queue you’ll be rewarded with the taste of the still-warm deliciousness, the exact recipe is a closely guarded secret known by only a few employees. [see p59 for Viking’s recipe for Portuguese custard tarts] The next morning it was time to say ‘adeus!’ to Lisbon and board the luxury coach heading north to Porto, where Viking Osfrid and the Douro awaited. I had already seen so much in the first two days of my trip and was looking forward to explore what lay ahead on the next nine days of this exciting journey.

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T R AV E L Clockwise, from facing page:

Vaulted ceiling of the Jerónimos Monastery; Monument to the Discoveries in Belém; views of Quinta Nova vineyards; the Jerónimos Monastery in Belém

I took an optional half-day trip to a historic estate outside Porto. We discovered a lush oasis that was an English-inspired landscaped garden. A copse of trees had been planted many years ago and this gave a wonderfully verdant canopy under which many smaller flowering bushes and plants now thrived in the humid atmosphere. Interspersed between the plantings were huts, ponds and stone archways. Over time, the moss and lichen had coloured the trees and stone bricks with a beautiful patina of greens and golds that had everyone reaching for their cameras!

We also enjoyed an informative session tasting wines from the estate including ‘vinho verde’. This was then followed by more wine tastings while snacking on local cheeses and enjoying views of the countryside from a shaded loggia. A deliciously spoiling afternoon!

PHOTOS: © ALAMY/ISTOCK/GETTY IMAGES

After two nights in Porto, we set sail along the Douro – a timely contrast to the hectic delights of Lisbon, Coimbra and Porto After two nights in Porto, Viking Osfrid set sail along the Douro eastwards towards Spain. It was a timely contrast to the hectic delights of Lisbon, Coimbra and Porto visited during the first part of the trip. And a welcome chance to relax and appreciate the beautifully cultivated terraces of vines and sparkling white quintas that adorn the Douro Valley as it slopes in to the river.

In July, the temperatures were constantly above 30°C and the swimming pool on the Sun Deck provided cooling relief from the hot sun. Reclining on the comfortable sunbeds while watching the passing landscape in the brilliant sunshine was heavenly. The only exercise required was to wave occasionally at local people taking a dip in the river.

As the ship moved up the Douro towards the Spanish border, it had to pass through several locks as the elevation of the landscape climbed and to navigate around rocks that narrowed the river. The experience of going through the lock was quite eerie, as the ship was cast in the shadow by the height of the lock.

The sensation of being raised upwards, in what was effectively a ship lift, brought many people up on the Sun Deck for the experience.

As well as locks, there were bridges that seemed quite low as the ship approached them, and for one bridge in particular the Captain instructed all the guests on the Sun Deck to either sit or lie down.

Everyone seemed to enjoy the excitement of crouching down to avoid colliding with the bridge!

The included excursion, when the ship docked at Régua, was the Mateus Palace. This image was made famous after the building was used on the Mateus Rosé wine labels. Mateus Rosé was one of the most SPR ING 2018 | VIKINGCRUISES.CO.UK

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Castelo Rodrigo is a medieval fortress town perched on a hilltop that contains the ruins of a castle, which was burnt down in 1640

>>Portugal is famous for its Pastel de Nata, turn to p59 for our recipe

from the 16th century onwards. The library has a rare edition of the The Lusíads by Luís Vaz de Camões, considered to be the most famous Portuguese language poet. After strolling around the lake in front of the palace and the formal gardens, the next stop was a local quinta for wine tasting.

Castelo Rodrigo is a medieval fortress town perched on a hilltop that contains the ruins of a castle, which in medieval times was a thriving centre for commerce and for centuries protected the land from the Moors and the Spanish. Following a period of Spanish control, the locals burnt down the castle when Portugal gained its independence in 1640 and the castle was never rebuilt.

The town has an interesting history and had enjoyed two centuries of peaceful co-existence between the Jewish and Christian populations until the Spanish inquisition decimated the Jews. Many Jews chose to become Christians to avoid persecution but continued to practise their true religion behind closed doors.

Surrounding the town are fields of almond trees and you can buy almond-based products including liquors.

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PHOTOS: © ISTOCK/AWL IMAGES

popular wines exported from Portugal in the 1980s and was developed specially for the British and American palette. Since then its popularity has declined as consumer’s tastes became a little more sophisticated.

The palace itself was home of the last Count of Vila Real and is open to the public to view its collection of furniture, crockery, paintings and books

T R AV E L Clockwise, from facing page:

The yellow tram cars of the Bica Funicular railway in the heart of Lisbon; juicy grapes in a vineyard; the historic Spanish city of Salamanca

The town dominates the surrounding landscape and there were amazing views to enjoy all around the castle.

The population is greatly reduced with only a few families remaining, but walking around the peaceful streets you can get a sense of the importance and grandeur of the town’s glory days.

The day trip to Salamanca was filled with great experiences. The first stop was to the covered market near the Plaza Mayor, where different stalls offer a fantastic array of fresh fish, meat and vegetables.

They all seemed much larger and more colourful than anything you would find in a British market. The tour finished with a visit to a tapas stall where we sampled dishes of squid, cheese, olives and chorizo, washed down with a fruity white wine.

There was much to explore around the town, including two cathedrals, the art deco museum and the shops. Another well-known building was the House of Shells, which was decorated by its owner to display his wealth. The university buildings were all built in a decorative red sandstone, and one tradition from previous centuries was for graduates to climb

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T R AV E L Left to right:

PHOTO: © ISTOCK

The colourful old town of Porto overlooking the Douro River; bottles of port wine on display in Porto

up the sides of the building and write their names in bull’s blood. Some of the names could still be seen high up on the walls of some of the dwellings.

As it was Saturday, there were many weddings taking place in Salamanca’s Cathedral and churches, and we joined groups of exuberant, cheering wedding guests gathering in the streets to celebrate the bridal parties. It was interesting to see how glamorous the Spanish wedding parties were; many of the women would not be out of place at a ball, dressed in their brightly coloured long gowns.

The bands of musicians, wearing traditional black capes, serenaded the bride and groom along, while confetti bombs and firecrackers added to the incredible street-party atmosphere.

During the cruise, there were several opportunities to try out wines and ports of the region. In Porto, the included excursion ended with a trip around Ferreira Cellars, which was on the river close to where Viking Osfrid was docked. A tour of the cellars was very informative and one of the things we learnt was about the storage of ruby and tawny ports.

The ruby ports are stored in large vats so there’s less oxidisation, which helps to retain their ruby-red colour.

The tawnies, on the other hand, are stored in barrels to help create the brown colour of the wine.

There were several further opportunities to enjoy both Portuguese and Spanish wines as part of the Quinta da Aveleda, Castilo Rodrigo and Salamanca excursions, as well as on board the ship. Drinking the local wines and ports of the Douro Valley was definitely one of the main highlights of the trip!

A 10-day Portugal’s River of Gold journey starts from £1,395pp, departing in December 2019. vikingcruises.co.uk SPR ING 2018 | VIKINGCRUISES.CO.UK

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A taste of

PORTUGAL

Join us on a culinary journey to sample the simple and soulful nature of authentic Portuguese cooking

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FOOD & WINE

Pastéis de Nata Found all around Portugal, these delicious little custard tarts are traditionally served dusted with sugar and cinnamon. Beware, it’s impossible to eat just one!

MAKES ROUGHLY 12

PHOTOS: © GETTY IMAGES/ISTOCK

250ml milk 1 lemon, zest only 1 cinnamon stick 100g caster sugar 2 tbsp plain flour 75ml water 3 large eggs, yo lks only 320g all-butter puff pastry

1 Preheat the oven to 475°F (245°C).

Gently heat the milk with 2 to 3 strips of lemon zest and the cinnamon stick to a simmer, then remove the lemon and cinnamon.

2 Mix the flour with a little of the milk to a smooth paste, then stir in the rest of the milk. Return to the heat, whisking constantly for a few minutes until thick.

3 Place the sugar and water in a saucepan, stirring until the sugar has dissolved. Bring to a boil and allow to boil for 3 minutes, then whisk into the milk mixture.

4 Place the egg yolks in a bowl and slowly add the milk mixture, whisking constantly. Transfer to a jug and allow to cool slightly.

5 Lightly butter all the holes in a 12hole muffin tin. Roll out the pastry into a rough rectangle, then roll each rectangle up from the bottom to the top. Cut each roll into 12 discs. Place one disc flat into the base of each muffin hole, then, with wet thumbs,

gently press out until the pastry comes about halfway up each hole.

6 Pour the custard into the pastry cases, then bake for about 15 minutes, until set and caramelised.

Sprinkle with sugar and cinnamon, then serve while still warm.

Left to right:

Typical Portuguese Azulejos (Blue Tiles); the famous traditional custard tart, Pastéis de nata

SMOOTH SWEETNESS These little flaky-pastry encased hits of vanilla-laced sweetness would go perfectly with one of Portgual’s favourite dessert wines – Moscatel.

This dark, amber wine is as smooth as the luscious custard itself, and its aromas of orange blossom and raisins will set off the tart’s natural sweetness. Drink chilled as an aperitif, or as a dessert wine.

We love: Bacalhôa Vinhos de

Portugal, Moscatel de Setubal, £11.99, The Oxford Wine Company. oxfordwine.co.uk

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FOOD & WINE Left to right:

Chunks of salted cod from a fresh fish market; Bacalhau à Brás is a traditional Portuguese dish made with salt cod, potatoes and eggs

Bacalhau à Brás Bacalhau is one of Portugal’s most famous dishes, and they say there are as many recipes for this dish as there are days in the year. Some variations use Norwegian stockfish (dried and salted cod), which has bonded the countries and cultures of Portugal and Norway together for centuries.

SERVES 4

PHOTO: © GETTY IMAGES

450g (1 lb) dried salted cod 450g (1 lb) waxy potatoes Olive oil 1 large white onion, halved, then thinly sliced 2 bay leaves 4 cloves garlic, crushed 2 tbsp fresh parsley, chopped 4 large eggs 30g black olives, pitted TO GARNISH: Dash of Tabasco Lemon wedges

1 Cover the cod in cold water and allow to soak for approximately 48 hours, changing the water frequently.

2 Place the cod in a large pot and cover with water again. Boil for about 15 minutes, then drain. Allow to cool, then flake and set aside.

3 Peel the potatoes and cut into matchsticks. Add 1 to 2 tablespoons of olive oil to a non-stick pan and fry the potatoes in batches. Keep the cooked matchsticks warm in a low oven.

4 Add a further tablespoon of olive oil to the pan and add the bay leaves.

Cook for 2 to 3 minutes, then add the garlic and onions to the pan.

Sauté until translucent. Discard the bay leaves, then add in the parsley and the flaked cod.

5 Mix the eggs with a fork, then add

to the pan. Keep stirring until the eggs are scrambled. Combine the fries with the cod mixture, then stir in the black olives. Season to taste and finish with a dash of Tabasco. Garnish with lemon wedges.

LIGHT WHITE Unsurprisingly, the spritzy, saline character of Portugal’s most famous white wine, Vinho Verde, matches brilliantly with the most popular food in the region – seafood. The citrus freshness of the wine complements the white fish, while its mineral salinity adds bite to the salty olives and seasoning.

We love: Quinta de Azevedo Vinho Verde, £8.69. waitrose.co.uk

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Frango na Púcara Frango na Púcara is a hearty, slow-cooked, flavoursome chicken and chorizo dish, traditionally cooked in a clay púcara – a tagine-style cooking pot – but you can use any covered baking dish. The recipe comes from the city of Alcobaça on Portugal’s west coast and is a delicious mix of chicken, chorizo, garlic and tomatoes.

SERVES 4 2.7-3.6kg (6-8 lbs) chicken, cut into 8 pieces 2 garlic cloves, crushed 2 tbsp Dijon mustard Pepper to taste 150g chorizo, sliced 4 med tomatoes, skinned, seeded and diced 50g pearl onions, peeled (or use chopped ordinary onion) 100g button mushrooms 80ml olive oil 240ml dry white wine 120ml port wine 80ml Macieira Royal Brandy

1 Rub the chicken pieces with garlic and mustard; sprinkle with pepper.

Chill for at least 1 hour.

2 Preheat the oven to 375°F (190°C).

3 Place the chicken into a heavylidded casserole (dutch oven). Add the chorizo, tomatoes, mushrooms and onions. Drizzle with olive oil before adding the wines and brandy. Cover and bake for 50 minutes. Remove the lid and continue to bake for a further 30 minutes, or until the chicken is golden brown.

4 Serve with roast or mashed potatoes, rice or fresh crusty bread.

IN THE PINK Match this dish with a Portguese rosé – unlike their French equivalents, rosé from Portugal tends to be darker and more robust and can certainly stand up to the rich and flavoursome ingredients in this entrée.

We love: Terra de Lobos Rosé 2016, £7.50, Tanner’s Wines. tanners-wines.co.uk

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FOOD & WINE

A taste of Port Rupert Pritchett, proprietor of the Surrey-based wine merchant Taurus Wines, explains the nautical history of Portugal’s most famous wine

PHOTO: © GETTY IMAGES

P

ort is a wine synonymous with after-dinner speeches, black tie dinners and groaning cheese boards – but there’s much more to it than that… Really!

Port has been part of British life since the 17th century, when wars with France forced us to source our wine from elsewhere. Unlike a quick hop across the Channel, Portugal was further away and in order to stabilise the wine in transit the British merchants fortified it with a type of brandy.

During the voyage, the wine matured and London society got a taste for the oaky, sweet, rubyred wine. It became so popular that ‘pipes’ of port – barrels that contained the equivalent of 672 bottles – were popular christening gifts for godsons – effectively giving the young chap a bottle of port to drink once a week for the whole of his adult life!

Port comes in many different styles and flavours – from dry and semi-dry aperitif ports, white ports that work perfectly in cocktails, or with tonic, and, of course, the deep tawny and ruby red ports that we associate with the name.

The biggest mystery surrounding port is the tradition of ‘declaring vintages’. Port houses tend to limit how many years per decade they ‘declare’ a vintage, and some will declare only from a single quinta,

or vineyard. This self-selecting quality control means that only the best wines become vintage ports and can be kept in your wine rack for decades, just getting better and better.

Rupert recommends:

Graham’s Quinta dos Malvedos 2004, £29.99, Taurus Wines.

‘Graham’s decided not to declare 2004 as a vintage across all of its vineyards, but this single quinta stood out as being better than many of its ‘superiors’.

This port still has its youthful purpleblack colour and is drinking well now but will continue to improve for years to come.’ tauruswines.co.uk

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T R AV E L

Escape the

WINTER BLUES John Wilmott reaps the benefits of an off-season cruise in the Mediterranean

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T R AV E L

PHOTOS: © ISTOCK/GETTY IMAGES

T

he crisp white outlines of the buildings of to the former Roman port of Valencia’s City of Arts and Sciences sparkle Ostia, my small guided group in the sharp sunlight, like a vision from almost had the impressive a Hollywood future-world. The structures ruins to ourselves. A milky sun exercise my imagination; the opera house is a giant illuminated the crumbling walls alien insect, the IMAX cinema the arcing hump and I was perfectly comfortable of a whale… in shirtsleeves.

Local architect Santiago Calatrava’s masterpiece This week-long voyage rightly draws visitors from around the world. Except would normally take in Algiers today. Despite the fine weather, the walkways between and Tunis but, due to the the shallow pools surrounding these icons are virtually security situation in North deserted. The reason for this is simple: it’s January.

Africa, the sensible decision was taken to switch these Not the time of year most destinations for Naples Approaching Mallorca in the late and Mallorca. We were still people would contemplate a Mediterranean cruise – to enjoy a different morning, I marvelled at the clarity able but for those who do, port every day, with the of light at this time of year the benefits reach beyond Italian islands of Sardinia the absence of the usual and Sicily making up an tourist throng. engrossing and varied itinerary.

My Southern Mediterranean Discovery with Viking Apart from Naples – where a public holiday began with a flight to Rome just four days into the new encouraged the city’s residents to shop for January sale year, the plane quickly leaving behind the chilly drizzle bargains and scoff pizza in the narrow streets – every of Gatwick. I had not expected the continental weather destination was agreeably peaceful and easy to navigate. to be particularly clement at this time of year so had It was the same story on Viking Star. This was packed fleeces and a raincoat. my third Viking ocean cruise and, even though each It was therefore a pleasant surprise, halfway through was virtually sold out, the ships have been a haven the cruise, to find fellow guests flopped on loungers of warm tranquility. Ok, there were exceptions. in swimwear and splashing in the pool – not in The buzz in the Torshavn nightspot generated by the Viking Star’s lovely spa, but out on the open deck. live band was exuberant, muted only by a mesmerising I did not have to wait long to begin to appreciate trumpet solo that commanded attention. What’s more, the joys of off-season travel. On my first excursion, there was no shortage of guests singing along to the

Clockwise from facing page:

The architecturally impressive Queen Sofia Palace, part of the City of Arts and Sciences in Valencia; BastiÓn de Saint Remy, in Cagliari; Viking Star sets sail

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PHOTOS: © ISTOCK/ALAMY

T R AV E L

classic show hits belted out by the West End singer in the Star Theatre.

Another advantage of winter in the Med became evident in Sardinia. I’d begun my tour in a mild grey mist but this soon yielded to sun and, as we sailed away, the old buildings of the city of Cagliari – spread across several hills – glowed in a crystal light, unsullied by the haze that can come with the summer heat.

My fleece did make a necessary appearance at Erice, a medieval hilltop town in Sicily that I had chosen from Viking’s list of optional tours. The wind was now howling through the narrow cobbled streets, but our guide gamely led us past the picturesque castle and churches. We would have struggled to hear him without our personal headsets!

Approaching Mallorca in the late morning, I again marvelled at the clarity of light at this time of year. The island was miles away, but it appeared as though I had just been to the optician. I could see every detail in the cliffs and was admiring the buttresses of the majestic cathedral of Palma long before we arrived.

I’d been before to Valldemossa, a venerable old town in the Mallorcan mountains that was a stop on my scenic tour. Back then, I had to shuffle through the high-season crowds; this time, I could almost feel the silence in the sleepy lanes.

After a full day in Valencia, and a final dinner of suitably Spanish treats on board, we disembarked in Barcelona. As we drove to the airport, a few spots of rain dappled the coach windows. We’d been fortunate with the weather on this trip, but also

blessed with exploring some of the Mediterranean’s most engaging destinations as they should be seen – full of pleasures, not people.

An 8-day Southern Mediterranean Discovery journey from Rome to Barcelona, starts from £2,090pp, departing in December 2018. vikingcruises.co.uk

Left to right: The

cobbled streets of Sicily’s medieval hilltop town Erice; a moody sunset over Valldemossa – one of the prettiest mountain villages in Mallorca

TIPS FOR A WINTER CRUISE

•Take plenty of thin layers

• Do take a swimsuit – the main

•

•

as the temperature may be unpredictable.

Pack a hat with a brim as the lower sun can be dazzling as it bounces off the water.

pool on Viking ships is usable in all weathers.

A camera with a telephoto lens is useful for capturing coastal views in the clear light.

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VIKING

Book Club If you’re looking for inspiration for your next holiday read, look no further! Here are some personal recommendations from our readers...

THE GUSTAV SONATA

By Rose Tremain Vintage Publishing, £8.99

This is a beautifully written book, and easy to read. Set during the Second World War, predominately in neutral Switzerland, the story highlights life’s imperfections.

Perhaps, it is a strange choice to take to sea, but I loved it!

Stella Noble

since. I just love it! It is such a powerful and compelling tale. A must-read for everyone.

Sinéad O’Rourke

MAGPIE MURDERS

By Anthony Horowitz Orion Publishing, £8.99

This is a book within a book.

Very intriguing but an easy read.

Jane Williams

OVER AND OUT

THE POSTCARD

By Henry Blofeld

By Fern Britton

Hodder & Stoughton, £9.99

HarperCollins, £7.99

Better than any cricket book I’ve ever read, probably because he’s a proper writer. Not afraid to put himself down. Read it, you’ll love it.

Geoff Wright

I was grabbed immediately by the charming writing style, intriguing (yet relatable) characters and the lovely description that pulled you straight to the Cornwall coast.

I thoroughly enjoyed the story and was really captured by it. In fact, this is one of the fastest books I’ve ever read! And I’m constantly coming back to it. Very easy to read and I would highly recommend it!

Elizabeth Cooke

EAT PRAY LOVE MADE ME DO IT Bloomsbury Publishing, £8.99

This is a compilation of essays written by readers of Elizabeth Gilbert’s original book, Eat Pray Love. I love all these stories from different contributors. Moreover, I find their experiences encourage you to take chances in life!

Rachel Johnston

TO KILL A MOCKINGBIRD

By Harper Lee Cornerstone Publishing, £6.99

I first read this book as a teenager and have read it several times

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THE LITTLE PARIS BOOKSHOP

By Nina George Little, Brown Book Group, £8.99

A brilliantly written book that takes you through the canals of France. Very quirky in parts!

Really well written and a good twist that I didn’t see coming.

Anne Pritchard

THE TRAVELLING CAT CHRONICLES

By Hiro Arikawa Transworld Publishers, £8.99

A beautiful book set in Japan about love and friendship – both happy and sad. My book group loved it.

Susan Robertson

THE GIRL IN THE ICE

By Robert Bryndza Little, Brown Book Group, £7.99

The first in the series of Erika Foster detective novels; each is as gripping and as good as this one.

Sue Oldland

ORIGIN

By Dan Brown Transworld Publishers, £14.99

Typically a Dan Brown book but it reminds me so much of my favourite city, Barcelona, which also features on the itinerary of our next cruise.

Ian Cathrew

INFERNO

By Dan Brown Cornerstone, £6.99

You visit Florence and Venice in the book among other places.

Nici Cunningham

CLOSE TO HOME

By Cara Hunter

Quite an unexpected twist at the end. A very good holiday read.

Judith Hilton

BOOK CLUB

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REVIEW

POSTCARD from

CUBA Seasoned Viking travellers, Sheila and Ed Davies, set sail to Cuba and wrote to tell us about their adventure Clockwise from far right: Ed and

PHOTOS: © GETTY IMAGES/ISTOCK

Sheila Davies on board Viking Sun; riding through the streets in classic cars was one of the many highlights of the trip; Viking Sun in all its glory; the local taxis have a unique style

W

hen we touched down in Miami for our two-night pre-cruise stay, we felt like royalty as we were escorted to our hotel in a brand new Chevrolet 4x4. We were due to join Viking Sun for a cruise to Key West and Cuba, and could not have got off to a better start!

Our hotel, the Hilton Cabana Miami Beach, was in a lovely quiet area and had access at the rear on to the beach. The guide showed us all the sites including South Beach, the Art Deco district and finally Little Havana, which gave us a taste of what to expect in Cuba, and we loved spending time at the beach.

On the morning of day three, we joined the other guests waiting to be transferred from the hotel to the Viking Sun. The embarkation process was incredibly easy and we were greeted with a glass of champagne.

Viking Sun is a new ship, but having been on Viking Sea we felt immediately at home. The quality of the ship, the attention to detail, the friendliness and efficiency of the staff was, as always, second to none.

It was also good to meet a few familiar faces from previous cruises amongst the crew.

The following morning the ship docked at Key West and we boarded the trolley bus for a tour of the area before exploring the shops.

We visited a local restaurant for Conch and local beer followed by some authentic Key Lime Pie which was a great experience. And we then enjoyed a day at sea chatting with fellow guest and soaking up the ambience on board.

The following day we awoke in the port of Cienfuegos, Cuba where we disembarked for the journey to Havana. The coaches were brand new and spotlessly clean and we relaxed as we drove through the countryside.

On arriving in Havana we had an authentic Cuban lunch in a local restaurant before admiring the architecture of the city. That night, we headed out for dinner, and as we stood on the hotel steps we were greeted with the sight of a procession of classic American convertible cars from the 1950s arriving in a wave of colour to take us to our restaurant. As we toured the streets of Havana you could hear them tooting their horns and the guests whooping! What an unforgettable experience was had by all.

Our next stop was the famous Tropicana Club where the men were presented with a Cuban cigar and the ladies were given a flower, which was a lovely touch. We enjoyed a bottle of Havana Club Rum as we watched the singers and dancers in their vividly colourful costumes.

Another highlight was visiting the museum in the Bay of Pigs to learn about the Caribbean’s Cold War history from the Cuban perspective.

All too soon we arrived back in Miami and our holiday-of-a-lifetime had come to an end.

The cruise, the ship, the crew, the food and the entertainment can only be described as excellent. We met some old friends and made new ones, who have also booked to join us on another Viking cruise in 2018. Well done to the Viking team!

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PHOTOS: © ISTOCK

CITY GUIDES Our destinations and shore excursions are at the centre of every Viking cruise. We’re always on the lookout for new experiences, and these travel guides are packed with local tips to inspire your next adventure

Page 76 Santorini The Aegean’s most dazzling jewel boasts iconic viewpoints and a wealth of historical sites

Page 78 Bangkok Thailand’s spiritual heartland is a thriving modern metropolis, buzzing with energy

Page 80 Kiev Ukraine’s capital city, often called ‘the city of a thousand domes’, is crammed with Orthodox churches

Santorini From vineyards to lost cities, the Aegean’s most dazzling jewel offers so much more than its many iconic viewpoints

T

he serene sunsets and balmy Mediterranean views for which Santorini is famous today feel a long way from its violent geological past.

This dreamy crescent-shaped island, the furthest of the Cyclades from Athens, is the result of several volcanic eruptions including one that not only caused the centre of the island to collapse but also triggered a tsunami that led to the collapse of Minoan Crete.

The unique geology of Santorini is very much part of its appeal – black-sand beaches make the azure blue of the sea deeper than ever.

Sheer lava cliffs offer incredible views, while the white-washed churches, windmills and villas against the parched, black hilltops stand out from miles at sea.

The most impressive viewpoints are on the west of the island, where villages such as Oia and Firostefani perch precariously on the caldera edge. From Oia, the muchphotographed zigzag stairway leads

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down to Amoudi Bay, or from the capital of the island, Thira, a cable car ferries people down 300 metres to the old port. On the east side, black-sand beaches rub alongside often-deserted archaeological sites, including Akrotiri, which was destroyed by a volcanic eruption in 17th-century BC but is preserved like Pompeii. Below Akrotiri is the dramatic red-sand cove Kokkini Ammos, and further down the coast sits Ancient Thira and the island’s most manicured beach – Kamari.

Clockwise from this image: Blue-

domed churches overlooking the Aegean, Oia; cable cars to the old port in Thira

Don’t miss

•Pyrgos, the old capital of the island, is the best place to catch a glimpse of island life. After meandering through the medieval streets, it may be possible to see inside one of the traditional houses.

•Although Boutari is the most extensive winery on the island, Venetsanos is the most fascinating – built before mains electricity was available, the whole wine-making process here was designed to be hand- or gravity-assisted.

•The Museum of Prehistoric Thera is one of the best on the island.

Look out for original Minoan frescoes depicting monkeys and elegant women.

•Although slightly more ramshackle, Megaro Gyzi is a former Catholic archbishopric that houses an eclectic mix of artefacts depicting the island’s history – engravings, maps, views of the 1886 eruption and photos before the terrible earthquake of 1956.

Fast Facts Thira has more designer outlets than Mykonos Town Before it was called Santorini, the island was known as Kallíst, meaning ‘the most beautiful one’

• There are several marked walking

routes around the island. You can pick up a designated map from the information centre in port or look out for wooden signposts with redroute numbers – nine and three are meant to be the most stunning.

Eating & Drinking

With lashings of Mediterranean sunshine, mineral-rich volcanic soil and a healthy fishing fleet, Santorini has a thriving food scene.

Specialities include domatinia (cherry tomatoes), fava (pureed yellow peas) and white aubergines, all washed down with one of the island’s characterful white wines.

VILLA BORDEAUX £££

This beautiful 19th-century mansion that seems to float above the sea in Thira is home to French restaurant La Colline, which was recently opened by Jérôme

T R AV E L

Coustillas, former chef for the Moroccan royal family.

Insider Tips

TO PSARAKI £££

With tables overlooking Santorini’s main fishing port, this is a top spot to enjoy crisp aubergine salad, bonito fish and mullet bottarga cooked to perfection and served with carafes of local wine.

PHOTOS: © ALAMY/GETTY IMAGES/ISTOCK

AKTAION £££

One of the oldest tavernas on the island, the Roussos family has served light and locally inspired dishes, such as grilled octopus with cress, ouzo and milk, and a wide selection of ouzos here since 1922.

GIORGAROS £

Fresh fish, including shrimp and white bream, is plentiful at this quaint taverna. With views looking towards Thirasia, it’s amazing this little find stays so keenly priced.

EXPLORING THE DEEP

CELEBRATION OF EASTER

GREAT VIEWS FROM AFAR

See damselfish, a Second World War wreck and hovering parrot fish on one of the 30 recognised scuba diving sites around Santorini and Thirasia.

Pyrgos, with its 30 churches, is home to the island’s most vibrant Easter celebrations and visitors are always welcome to join in.

Locals often head to the faros (lighthouse) on the south-western tip of the island for a picnic-witha-view. The best time to visit is during sunset.

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Clockwise from this image:

Bangkok’s famous Grand Palace and Wat Phra Keaw (Temple of the Emerald Buddha) in all their splendour during a golden sunset; food vendors trading from a floating market

Bangkok Straddling the Chao Phraya River, Bangkok is a modern metropolis that never stands still but, by contrast, is also Thailand’s spiritual heartland

I

t’s hard to know which way to turn in a city bursting at the seams with 11 million people – but that’s what makes Bangkok so memorable. For a grounding start head to Ko Ratanakosin, the city’s historical centre. Leave plenty of time to wander around the Hindu murals of Wat Phra Kaew, gaze at the Emerald Buddha and contemplate the intriguing mix of European and Thai architecture at the Grand Palace.

Further south, Wat Pho, the Temple of the Reclining Buddha, offers visitors an enlightening introduction to Thai massage and across the river, Wat Arun, the Temple of Dawn, is adorned with mosaics made from tiny pieces of Chinese porcelain. Before temple fatigue creeps in, take in a slice of India at the colourful Hindu Mahariamman Temple and admire the exquisite marble craftsmanship at Wat Benchamabophit.

High-rise apartments, hotels and shopping centres have closed in on most parts of the city but not in its

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oldest area – Chinatown. Beyond Sampeng Market, it’s each to their own in a warren of Taoist temples, herbal medicine vendors, fashion outlets and neon lights. It’s here that Bangkok’s world-renowned street-food scene kick-started, and pots overflowing with crab, noodles and satay still line Yaowarat Road.

With so many external influences over the years – Chinese, Khmer, European and Muslim – it’s not surprising that foodies flock here. After savouring the delights of Chinatown, head to Banglamphu, Bangkok’s Old Town, where old-style Thai street food vendors still use recipes passed down to them through generations.

Don’t miss

•Taling Chan is one of Bangkok’s most easily accessed floating markets, where a network of canals teeming with sampans, narrow rowing boats, sell handicrafts, fruit and Thai snacks.

•It may seem strange to delve into the world of an American spy when in Thailand, but the Jim Thompson House is not only a serene space full of intriguing antiques and the history of the Thai silk industry, its gift shop is a treasure trove of stylish souvenirs.

•A cruise along the temple-lined Chao Phraya River is one of the best ways to see the city’s canals, known as klongs, and admire the vivid ceramic facade of Wat Arun.

•Besides the temples and palaces that draw so many visitors to its

Fast Facts

banks, the Riverside Quarter is home to a Muslim enclave called Haroon, seemingly abandoned 19th-century warehouses and a burgeoning art and design scene.

Eating & Drinking New Year’s celebrations every August turn into a giant waterand-talcumpowder-fight on the streets

Although there are classy rooftop bars and up-market hotels, what makes this city sing are the sounds, smells and tastes of street food in Siam Square, Silom Road and Trok Itsaranuphap. Khao gang (curry rice), tom yum talay (lemongrass soup with seafood) and khao niew ma muang (mango sticky rice) are all delicious specialities worth a try.

Wat Traimit is home to the world’s largest solid gold Buddha

JAY FAI ££

On an unassuming stall on Maha Chai Road sits one of Bangkok’s most expensive (and revered) streetfood vendors, famous for guay tiew pad kee mao, also known as ‘drunken noodles’.

T R AV E L

SKY BAR, STATE TOWER HOTEL £££

If you have a head for heights and a penchant for cocktails, visit one of the world’s highest rooftop bars, with its stunning 360-degree views.

Insider Tips

THE NEVER ENDING SUMMER ££

For a taste of cool, check out this converted warehouse serving hearty Thai dishes to the artsy Klongsan neighbourhood.

PHOTOS: © ISTOCK/GETTY IMAGES

THE DECK, ARUN RESIDENCE ££

Perched across the river from Wat Arun, the pretty terrace at this hotel restaurant is more about the view than the food, especially at sunset.

HARMONIQUE £

Lunch is as traditional as the setting in this small wooden house packed with interesting artefacts.

THE TEMPLE ETIQUETTE

A HAVEN OF TRANQUILITY

GENTLE TREATMENT

Modest dress is required to enter temples, and shoes should be removed when asked, but you must wear socks as bare feet are not permitted.

Lumpini Park offers shady spots under banyan trees, with a lovely lake where visitors can rent boats when the chaos of the city gets too much.

Rest weary feet with a traditional Thai massage for just £8 an hour in Ruen-Nuad Massage Studio’s traditional Thai wooden house.

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Clockwise from this image:

The goldendomed Orthodox monastery KievPechersk Lavra is the holiest place of pilgrimage in Ukraine; a display of contemporary works at Pinchuk Art Centre

Kiev

Discover a city where East meets West and past reincarnations of art and architecture collide on the banks of the vast Dnieper River

O

ften referred to as the ‘city of a thousand domes’, Ukraine’s capital city is crammed with Orthodox churches and cathedrals – their gilded turrets, spires and domes creating a fairy-tale skyline.

The star of the show is the 11thcentury, UNESCO-listed KievPechersk Lavra. Nestled in grassy hills above the Dnieper River, half a day can easily be whiled away admiring the wealth of gold inside and out, and descending into mysterious caves. Nearby, at St. Sophia’s Cathedral, frescoes date back to 1017, and a weddingcake bell tower stands 76m tall – offering magnificent city views.

While political revolutions simmer elsewhere in Ukraine, in Kiev it is culture that has recently sprung to life. Wander (or catch the vintage funicular train) up pretty Andrew’s Descent, where every building tells a story. Referred to as the ‘Montmartre of Kiev’, this cobbled street is lined with

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Ukrainian artists’ workshops and galleries. The Pinchuk Art Centre hosts a more international art scene, including big names such as Gormley and Damian Hirst.

Back to politics, learn about past revolutions at the nation’s meeting point, Independence Square. It was here that a huge guerrilla camp was set up during the Euromaidan Revolution just four years ago. Today, this central square is a prime people-watching spot – food vendors, snake charmers, commuters and families bustling in and among huge historical monuments and modern make-shift memorials. For a more sombre reminder of the country’s past, Babi Yar is one of Europe’s most impressionable holocaust memorials; it’s believed that more than 100,000 people lost their lives here during Nazi occupation.

Don’t miss

•When visiting Kiev-Pechersk Lavra, leave plenty of time to experience the fantastical labyrinths and caves of Pechersk. Accessed via the Church of the Rising Cross, these subterranean churches featuring relics date back to 1051.

•Across the road is Mystetskyi Arsenal – a former weapons store that now houses one of Europe’s largest contemporary art galleries.

•Step back in time during a visit to Pirogovo folk museum, where 200 cottages, barns and windmills, all from a different period and region, are set against hilly suburbs.

Fast Facts The chestnut is Kiev’s unofficial emblem; the city is at its most beautiful in May when chestnut trees are in full blossom The mosaics at Kiev-Pechersk Lavra contain 177 colours

• Kiev was the third most

important city of the Soviet Union, so there’s no shortage of Soviet heritage. The lofty 102m high Rodina Mat (Motherland) – memorial is the most distinctive.

• The city’s architecture is a unique mix of baroque, Soviet and Art Nouveau styles. Look out for the works of Wladyslaw Horodecki and his Gaudí-like creations; the House with Chimaeras and Actor’s House are the most impressive.

Eating & Drinking

From architecture to political upheaval, wash it all down with some traditional cuisine from a country known for centuries as the ‘breadbasket of Europe’. Specialities include varenyky (filled dumplings), borscht (red beetroot soup) and perepichka (sausage in a fried bun).

A warming cognac is the the local way to end a meal.

T R AV E L

SPOTYKACH ££

One of Kiev’s most prized food establishments, Spotykach, serves Russian fare with a Ukrainian twist in a stylish but retro setting.

Insider Tips

TSARSKE SELO ££

This Ukrainian-themed restaurant serves food as wonderfully authentic as the rustic décor. Its speciality dessert called salo, cured lard soaked in chocolate, is tastier than it sounds.

PHOTOS: © ALAMY/GETTY IMAGES/ISTOCK

TEATRO £££

For something more upmarket (and closer to home taste-wise), head to the Opera Hotel for Mediterranean cuisine in a fine-dining setting.

BULOCHNAYA YAROSLAVNA £

One of Kiev’s most famous bakeries serves spectacular cinnamon rolls on busy Yaroslaviv Val Street.

BE AWARE OF THE DRESS CODE

OUTDOOR RECREATION

MUSICAL INTERLUDE

Although churches are more lenient than monasteries, operating Orthodox churches require women to wear headscarves.

Numerous islands on Kiev’s broad river offer great outdoor activities in summer – Trukhaniv Island is best known for cycling and walking.

Inside turn-of-the-century St. Nicholas Cathedral, the National House of Organ and Chamber Music of Ukraine holds regular classical concerts.

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INTERVIEW

A guiding star The composer and conductor Debbie Wiseman MBE remembers the moment she became a Viking Godmother How did you come to be a Viking Godmother?

I was invited to compose new signature music for Viking after Karine Hagen saw me conduct a performance of my Musical Zodiac at Classic FM Live at the Royal Albert Hall in September 2016. I was asked to be Godmother to Viking Herja in March 2017, an honour I was absolutely delighted to accept.

What was the highlight of the christening ceremony?

It’s hard to think of one highlight as it was such an amazing day, but I’ll never forget The Hungarian Parliament Building on the banks of the Danube in Budapest

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the moment I cut the ribbon, the sound of the champagne bottle smashing against the side of the ship and a cheer from the crowd on the riverbank. It was a magical moment and a memory to treasure.

What music do you listen to at sea?

What’s your favourite thing about Viking’s cruises?

It has to be the company’s attention to detail. Everything is so wonderfully warm and inviting. From the moment you step on board a Viking ship you feel instantly welcomed, relaxed and at home, so much so that you never want to get off!

I enjoy reading poetry collections at sea, mainly because I find poetry inspiring and thought-provoking.

And you can dip in and out of poetry so you won’t miss any of the gorgeous scenery as you sail past it!

What do you love most about cruising as a holiday?

What’s your dream destination and why?

I love the feeling of excitement as you approach a new, unexplored destination, and the constantly changing scenery as you glide along the river. Or the sight of a new port of call appearing over the horizon as you watch from the deck of an ocean ship. Moreover, I think the luxury of being on a Viking cruise is also something very special. Every member of the team on board is absolutely dedicated to making sure that each and every guest has a wonderful, memorable excursion. It is quite something to experience that level of care.

It has to be Debussy’s La Mer – a longstanding favourite piece of mine, and the perfect musical depiction of the sea.

And your recommended read?

There are too many to choose from, but I’d love to do the Romantic Danube trip from Budapest to Nuremberg. The Danube is an inspiring river; someone should write some music about it…!

What are your travel plans for 2018?

Hopefully, a trip to America to see my husband’s family, who live in Los Angeles.

And your voyage-of-a-lifetime?

I think Viking’s round-the-world cruise would be amazing!

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