more
EXPLORE See more of the world with Viking / Autumn/Winter 2018 £3.95
HERITAGE HIGHLIGHTS Travel to the Viking homelands
Adventure to
Asia
C U LT U R E A N D C U I S I N E F R O M VIETNAM, CAMBODIA AND CHINA
VIKING ORION
A celebration of Nordic culture and space travel
Enjoy The English Garden Voted Garden Publication of the Year
“The glossy, inspirational magazine for everyone who loves beautiful gardens”
SPECIAL OFFER
1 YEAR ONLY £39.50 (13 issues)
(usually £72)
Inside Every Issue Glorious Gardens Beautiful borders to inspire you as owners and gardeners share their knowledge
Plants and Planting Find out about different plant varieties and imaginative new planting schemes
Inspiring Ideas
+ FREE SECATEURS worth
£19.95
Valuable advice and creative designs to help you enjoy your garden all year through “The English Garden magazine is a constant reminder of the beauty of English gardens.” – Alan Titchmarsh
SUBSCRIBE TODAY
Go online www.chelseamagazines.com/CTEGEM8C Or phone + 44 (0) 1858 438 833 and quote CTEGEM8C Free gift is available to UK subscribers only via direct debit.
Viking
WELCOME
A new year of adventure Welcome to the autumn/winter edition of Explore More. To celebrate the festive season, we’ve rounded up the best afternoon tea spots in London – the perfect gift for someone special, or a lovely retreat from the hustle and bustle of the capital over Christmas. We’ve been uncovering the fascinating country of Ukraine on a river cruise, full of surprises and cultural highlights. And we’ve also been delving into Pablo Picasso’s relationship with the French capital, Paris, and how his time spent living in France influenced his art. We are delighted to introduce you to our latest ocean ship, Viking Orion, which features both a resident astronomer and a fantastic planetarium on board. With a former NASA astronaut, Dr. Anna Fisher, serving as godmother, this ship is destined for a stellar future at sea! As usual, we have gardening tips from the wonderful Paul Hervey-Brookes, including a guide to making a festive wreath, as well as our city guide section and a range of delicious recipes that are sure to inspire your next adventure to Asia. New Year is the perfect time to plot and plan your future travels, and you’ll find plenty of ideas about exciting new destinations to explore. From all of us here at Viking, we would like to wish you a very happy Christmas and New Year, and we look forward to seeing so many of you again at our events in 2019.
T WEET US:
@VIKINGCRUISESUK
LIKE US:
FACEBOOK.COM/ VIKINGCRUISESUK
FOLLOW US:
INSTAGRAM.COM/ VIKINGCRUISESUK
EMAIL US:
UK-MARKETING@ VIKINGRIVERCRUISES.COM
FIND OUT MORE ABOUT THE VIKING EXPLORER SOCIETY ON OUR WEBSITE
Managing Director, Viking UK
SPR ING 2018 | VIKINGCRUISES.CO.UK
3
72
22 76
58
Co n t e n t s more
EXPLORE See more of the world with Viking / Autumn/Winter 2018 £3.95
HERITAGE HIGHLIGHTS Travel to the Viking homelands
IN THIS ISSUE...
10 VIKING HOMELANDS A classic cruise exploring the beauty and majesty of the Nordic landscapes 16 PICASSO IN PARIS Discover how the artwork of Pablo Picasso was influenced by his time spent living in France
Adventure
30 FESTIVE GARDENING Learn how to make your own
to
Asia
wreath to bring the scents of the season into your home
C U LT U R E A N D C U I S I N E F R O M VIETNAM, CAMBODIA AND CHINA
39 TIME FOR TEA Celebrate the holiday season with a deliciously spoiling afternoon tea in the captial
VIKING ORION
56 CULINARY DELIGHTS Viking’s Culinary Director, Anthony Mauboussin, shares the secret to masterminding Viking’s menus
A celebration of Nordic culture and space travel
OFC_EM14_FINAL.indd 1
24/10/2018 10:25
Cover: Long tail boats along the coast of Lipe Island in southern Thailand Photo: Getty Images
4
VIKINGCRUISES.CO.UK | AUT UM N/ WINTER 2018
70 VIKING BOOK CLUB Our favourite seasonal books 72 POSTCARD FROM TROMSØ Travel tales from Norway
10
52
30 36
FEATURES
REGULARS
22 DISCOVER UKRAINE Explore this fascinating country on a cruise along the Dnieper, plus our top travel tips
6
VIKING NEWS The latest news and events
8
YOUR WORLD Letters and photos from our guests
34 MUSICAL MEMORIAL The composer Patrick Hawes describes the process of creating a symphony to mark the anniversary of the end of World War One
33 KARINE’S TRAVELS Karine Hagen’s latest adventures
44 VIKING ORION Step on board the newest addition
to update your wardrobe and prepare for a trip abroad
to the Viking fleet, Viking Orion, on its maiden voyage from scenic Livorno, Italy to exhilarating Monte Carlo
48 NASA GODMOTHER Astronaut Dr. Anna Fisher talks
about her career in space, and becoming a Viking godmother
52 DANUBE DELIGHTS Award-winning garden designer, Paul Hervey-Brookes, enjoys the rich culture and stunning architecture on his first river cruise 64 SCENIC SWIMMING Experience the perfect places to enjoy a spectacular dip whilst on your travels
36 SEASONAL STYLE Classic clothing and chic accessories 58 ADVENTURE TO ASIA Recipes to help you to recreate the exciting flavours of this fascinating continent at home 76 CITY GUIDE: HONG KONG Explore one of the most
thrilling and vibrant cities on Earth
78 CITY GUIDE: COLOGNE Discover this 2,000-year-old cultural hub, on the Rhine, in western Germany
80 CITY GUIDE: CAPE TOWN In the shadow of Table
Mountain, this beautiful city boasts epic scenery and great art AUT UM N/ WINTER 2018 | VIKINGCRUISES.CO.UK
5
Viking NEWS A round-up of the latest travel news and events from the world of Viking
New
ITINERARIES A new year heralds the launch of several new ocean cruises, with something to fulfil every wish list. The Americas & Chilean Fjords journey is a highlight, covering 18 countries over 87 days, from New York to Los Angeles. Destinations include Bermuda, Brazil, Uruguay, Guatemala, and more. Equally exciting is Australia, Asia, Europe & Beyond, sailing in February 2020 and visiting locations, such as The Philippines, India, Sri Lanka and Borneo, over the course of 82 days. 6
VIKINGCRUISES.CO.UK | AUTUMN/ WINTER 2018
If you’d love to visit Australia, but have less time available, the South Pacific & the Land Down Under itinerary is a 38-day cruise from Los Angeles to Sydney. The new British Isles to Eastern Seaboard, departing London in August 2019 and visiting 11 countries en route to New York, is also set to become a favourite. Plus, there are five new itineraries forming world cruise segments, taking in the Caribbean, South America and Africa’s western coastline. If you’re feeling inspired by these cruises, discover more on our website.
NEWS
New charity partners In 2019, we will be supporting three wonderful charities. We look forward to these partnerships, and taking part in activities to show our support and raise awareness, as well as making donations to fund the important work they do. Look out for more information about these three charities in the next issue. * FRIENDS OF SUSSEX HOSPICES - www.friendsofsussexhospices.org.uk * THE CHILDREN’S TRUST - www.thechildrenstrust.org.uk * SEPSIS TRUST - www.sepsistrust.org
DATES FOR THE DIARY Come and see us at one of these fantastic events over the next few months: 17 – 20 January Destinations, The Holiday & Travel Show, Manchester EventCity 31 January – 3 February Destinations, The Holiday & Travel Show Olympia
AWARDS SEASON We are delighted to announce that Viking has won many prestigious awards in recent months:
16 – 17 February London Cruise Show Olympia
BEST RIVER CRUISE OPERATOR AND BEST BOUTIQUE CRUISE LINE (The Times and Sunday Times Awards 2018) RIVER CRUISE LINE OF YEAR, CRUISE LINE OF THE YEAR (Food & Travel Magazine Awards 2018) STAR RIVER CRUISE COMPANY (Travel Bulletin STAR Awards 2018) BEST LUXURY CRUISE LINE AND BEST CRUISE LINE (British Cruise Awards 2018)
Clockwise from bottom left: Key Account Managers Andrew Schweitzer and Jenny Wade, Marketing Executives Matthew Farmer and Nathalie Jaeggle, PR Manager Bryony Gammon and Marketing Manager Heather Donoyou, represented Viking at the awards ceremonies
MEET & GREET EVENTS
We ran another series of our customer events around the country in October, where we met with our past and future cruisers to provide them with an update on our ships, and exciting new itineraries. A big thank you to those who came along. Stay tuned for more events in Spring 2019.
VISITS TO VIKING’S CHIC OCEAN SHIPS
From April until October 2018 we hosted an incredible 42 ship visits at UK ports. From Liverpool, Belfast, Portsmouth, Dover and more, our series of ocean ship visits this year has now finished. Thank you to all those who attended and look out for future ship visits in 2019.
AUTUMN/ WINTER 2018 | VIKINGCRUISES.CO.UK
7
Your WORLD
We catch up with where you’ve been and what you’ve seen on your Viking cruises... and where you’re off to next
YOUR LETTERS Planning our next cruise
Although we completed our questionnaire, we just wanted to reiterate what a completely flawless and faultless holiday we had cruising the Danube. Really grateful for all the hard work of the crew which made for a most memorable and enjoyable experience. Thank you. Elaine Saunders
We have recently returned from our first ever Viking cruise, Waterways of the Tsars, which was amazing. The cruise was managed fantastically by Yulia, a credit to Viking Cruises, and we have been assured that this is the standard we should expect from all Viking cruises so we have booked the Magnificent Mekong. Plus, we have been bestowing the ventures of Viking cruises to our family and have also booked Romantic Danube with two of my sisters and one of our nieces. We are besotted with the service, quality and care, so thank you. Amanda Bailey
Ended too soon Just wanted to drop you a line to say what a great time we had on Viking Var and Viking Tor on the Danube last week, preceded by a two-night stay at the Hilton in Budapest. It was a fab hotel and location, we couldn’t fault it. The Viking team was great too. Everything went like clockwork. The changeover between vessels was handled brilliantly. We want to say a big thank you to all the staff, especially our Cruise Director, George Siderov, who was fantastic. Our guides on included tours were also excellent, with Dorothea and Susanne being exceptional. All in all, it was a great holiday. My only complaint being that it ended too soon. We certainly hope to travel with Viking again in the future. Marion Greengrass
Fantastic experience We just returned from a trip on Viking Gullvieg. The whole Viking experience was fantastic. The service was five star, staff were well trained and the food was excellent. The ship was amazing and we had a great captain and crew. I can’t find one negative point to say. We had the best time ever. We can’t wait until our next trip and we’re not even bothering to look at alternatives. Viking for us every time. K and N Pearson 8
The perfect anniversary This year, to celebrate our 25th anniversary, my husband suggested Russia. I was a tad concerned as I expected Moscow to be grey and cold, not an ideal silver wedding location. How wrong I was. We flew into St Petersburg and met our tour guide. All the Viking crew were very cheerful and helpful, and spoke excellent English. The food on board was silver service standard. The included trip to see the ballet was tremendous and a glass of champagne in the interval made the evening perfect. When we arrived in Moscow, it was gloriously sunny, not grey and cold at all. We felt so relaxed in Moscow that we travelled by ourselves via the underground back to the ship. In fact, the Metro station was worth the Russian trip in its own right, with marble walls throughout and lifesize bronze statues and chandeliers. In short, the Waterways of the Tsars trip was wonderful and we would highly recommend it. Carol and Graham Field
VIKINGCRUISES.CO.UK | AUTUMN/ WINTER 2018
S TA R L E T T E R
We have just returned from yet another wonderful Viking holiday. We knew our total was going up, but when it was announced that we had enjoyed more cruises than anyone else on board, we were very surprised. I would like particularly to thank and recommend the staff, all of whom were friendly, polite and attentive, and prepared to go the extra mile when called upon to do so. Your staff are your biggest asset, as I’m sure you know. Thank you also for making my birthday special; it was a lovely ‘family’ atmosphere. As you haven’t been able to accede to my request to dig more rivers for us to cruise on, we will have to concentrate for the present on the ocean cruises. We have already enjoyed one and have booked two more. Hurry up with the digging... Barbara and Keith Horden
You could win...
...a £50 M&S gift voucher if your letter is chosen as our star letter. Email us at uk-marketing@ vikingrivercruises.com
PHOTOS: © ISTOCK
Delightful Danube
LETTERS
Y O U R P H O T O S #MyVikingStory Follow us on Instagram @VikingCruisesUK for more inspirational images
Cruise highlights Clockwise from top left: 1. The Hungarian Parliament from our dinner cruise. echohuangcfp 2. My favourite cruise restaurant is the @VikingCruises World Café. Seafood, sushi, made-to-order salads and pasta, and its proximity to the Aquavit Bar all helps to make it my favourite shipboard hangout. backroadplanet 3. Stunning morning in Eidfjord on Viking Sea. And such a treat to catch a glimpse of her sister ship, Viking Sun, sparkling in the sunlight. helenwilding 4. Still dreaming of the sushi bar on Viking Sky. joannedibonaphotos 5. Sailing through the rainbow. harish.sound 6. Tuscany: a natural and cultural treasure of Italy. geofotof 7. Aquavit...my favourite drink, with Dani, my lovely bartender in Portugal. NelsTheViking 8. Weʼve wanted to visit the Shetland Islands for years, Viking finally made that dream happen. luxeadventuretrvlr 9. The ubiquitous red house in Norway. spompei
Hit List
YOUR MESSAGES The visit to see the Impressionist art and the Hermitage, and also the storage and restoration building, was a real treat. Seeing items that have never been on public display was an absolute highlight. Helena Smith The infinity pool on the Viking ocean ships looks very inviting. Andrew Marrian Really enjoyed the Spanish Riding School Tour in Vienna, seeing the beautiful Lipizzaner Stallions in their stables, but also a Viennese concert with dancers in costume. Such wonderful memories. Moira Fergie
Roll on Saturday, the start of the cruise, to celebrate our 45th wedding anniversary, in Bergen. So looking forward to cruising the Baltic. Viking is most certainly the best cruise company for us. Maragret Clarke
We thoroughly enjoyed our wonderful Kiev to Odessa river cruise in July. What a spectacular way to see this fascinating country. Sheila Davies Great to meet the fantastic team at Heroes at Highclere, thank you for the brochures and the prosecco. Susan Biddle We did Viking’s Mediterranean cruise and loved it. The ship was beautiful and everything was top notch, just as the river cruises are. We are looking forward to doing the Grand European Tour this autumn. We love Viking. Susan Hens Smith
I have been on Viking Star twice and Viking Sky, so really looking forward to going on Viking Orion in Bangkok. Bill Emery Four weeks and counting until my cruise. I know I will love Viking Sky. anedeborah56
AUTUMN/ WINTER 2018 | VIKINGCRUISES.CO.UK
9
A cultural VOYAGE Travel writer Caroline Hendrie reports back on the highlights of her Viking Homelands cruise
T R AV E L
PHOTOS: © ALAMY
I
t isn’t hard to see why Ålborg topped a poll to be named Europe’s happiest city. At the bottom of Viking Sea’s gangway on the attractive waterfront, yards from the dazzling new Musikkens Hus (home to the Ålborg Symphony Orchestra), a smiley man in a flat cap was waiting. Lars, a jovial, retired journalist, was our guide on a merry morning’s pub crawl to taste locally brewed beers from our own souvenir tasting glass, while admiring the architecture of every period from medieval times to the 21st century. Our first stop was the John Bull, a place that fulfilled its current owner’s lifelong ambition to own a pub – he was able to buy it by winning the lottery. But my favourite pub on our tour was the Missing Bell, fitted out with the pews, pulpit and stained
glass of a deconsecrated English church, where we sampled soused herrings on rye bread with a chaser tot of Ålborg Akvavit, Denmark’s leading brand of schnapps, distilled in the city. We also learnt that Ålborg has the highest ratio of Ferraris in Denmark. After our tour, my partner and I decided to walk to the light-filled, white marble museum of modern art designed by Alvar Aalto, the Finnish architect famous for his asymmetric glass vases. A pleasant stroll became quite surreal when I heard Cliff Richard’s classic hit Living Doll booming out of an oak tree on the way. Was it the effects of a craft beer too many? No, my ears were not deceiving me, this was the Park of Music where artistes commemorate their performance in Ålborg
Bergen is a charming city, encircled by mountains with brightly coloured by planting a tree and passers-by can press a button and hear their favourites singing loud and clear. Skipping from tree to tree, I set off medleys by Prince, Tom Jones, Bob Dylan, Katherine Jenkins, Katie Melua, Ray Charles and lots and lots more until I felt quite giddy with joy. Our day in Ålborg was an unexpected highlight of an exciting 14-night Viking Homelands voyage from Bergen to Stockholm, brimming with stunning Scandinavian scenery and capital cities on the Baltic Sea. On this port-intensive cruise our first night was spent docked in Bergen, once the centre of the Hanseatic League trading empire. It is a charming city, encircled by
12
VIKINGCRUISES.CO.UK | AUT UM N/ WINTER 2018
mountains with brightly coloured historic merchants’ houses on the water’s edge. We had plenty of time to ‘climb’ Mount Fløyen, whisked up on the funicular before meeting the goats whose job is to munch on foliage that might otherwise spoil the panoramic views. We walked back down to the ship on paths through the wooded slopes and pretty streets, then got to know our floating home for the next two weeks. Sailing on Viking Sky is like checking in to a Nordic boutique hotel. The lobby – called the Living Room – is two decks high, light and airy, with an emphasis on natural materials. Not only blond wood and wool throws, but a living carpet, composed of lichens and
stones inspired by Norway’s landscape. There are quiet corners for reading and drinking coffee by day, and musical performances in the evenings. We made three calls in Norway, so Munch Moments, daily at 6pm, felt most appropriate, when a pianist and string quartet play pieces by Edvard Grieg while a gallery of works by Edvard Munch, including a giant The Scream, are projected on to a screen at the top of the central staircase, by special arrangement with the Munch Museum in Oslo. It became my favourite first stop on our return from excursions ashore. Familiarising myself with the ship on a pre-dinner stroll on the first evening, I was delighted to find no casino as you might expect on
T R AV E L
historic merchants’ houses on the water’s edge tasting menus that change every three days. We made sure to try the Scandinavian menu, in keeping with our surroundings. The five delicious courses included reindeer consommé, aquavit-infused gravlax and farikal, Norway’s national dish of lamb and cabbage stew. Unusually for ocean ships, there is no supplement for The Chef ’s Table or Manfredi’s, complimentary wine and beer come with lunch and dinner, Wi-Fi is free, and one excursion is included in every port (along with ones you can book at extra charge) – just like on Viking’s large fleet of longships that sail the world’s rivers. After a relaxing evening listening to a violin recital of music by Norwegian composer Ole Bull in The Star Theatre, where we lent back on cushions printed with the faces of famous Scandinavian film stars such as Greta Garbo and Ingrid Bergman, and a dreamless night in our restfully decorated balcony cabin, we awoke to wisps of mist rising from the deep water of Eidfjord. Soon the sun was shining on waterfalls spilling down the steep, pine-clad mountains into the fjord. Our included tour took us by coach up the valley to Hardangervidda Nature Centre where more goats grazed on the roof of the gift shop and taxidermists had clearly had a field day, stuffing examples of every creature to be found on Europe’s biggest mountain plateau from the smallest lemming to the largest elk. The next morning we arrived
in our third, and final Norwegian port, Stavanger, the oil-rich city with a winning combination of quaint old and gleaming new architecture. Our included walking tour took us straight to the Petroleum Museum, a steel structure on the water resembling an oil platform. It was a revelation to discover how attractive drill bits can be – examples on show looked like a row of huge silver sea urchins. In the Old Town, the world’s only Canning Museum housed in a 19th-century factory could not have been more different. Here we had the opportunity to practice the tricky art of packing sprats and to buy ‘vintage 2010’ sardines, a steal at £14 a tin.
Clockwise, from facing page: The colourful houses of Ålborg; the funicular train climbs up Mount Fløyen in Bergen; the Petroleum Museum at Stavanger
PHOTOS: © ALAMY
a cruise, but the delightful presence of a museum on the legacy of the Vikings. Did you know that the logo for Bluetooth wireless technology is a bind rune? That is to say the amalgamation of the two initials in the Old Norse alphabet of the 10th-century Danish King Harold Bluetooth. No? Neither did I. Another interesting exhibit explains the events depicted in the Bayeux Tapestry. Why? Because William the Conqueror and his army were Norsemen, Vikings who settled in Normandy, of course. Viking Sea has two alternative restaurants in addition to the main dining room, Manfredi’s Italian with succulent steaks on the menu and The Chef ’s Table which offers
AUT UM N/ WINTER 2018 | VIKINGCRUISES.CO.UK
13
14
VIKINGCRUISES.CO.UK | AUT UM N/ WINTER 2018
T R AV E L That evening we skipped an evening of fine dining to join six other guests at Sauna Night in The Spa. Under the guidance of Norwegian therapist Maria, we brushed ourselves vigorously with bristles until our skin tingled, ran in and out of the sauna, snow grotto and steam room, hot to cold to hot, then thwacked each other with leafy birch twigs until the pore-closing, heart-stopping finale. One by one we stepped forward to pull the chain to up-end a wooden bucket above our heads to be drenched in cold water. I clutched my face in a passable imitation of the tortured soul in Munch’s iconic painting, The Scream! This was a truly immersive Scandinavian experience that I highly recommend. My favourite spot on Viking Sea for a leisurely breakfast was Mamsen’s, next to an illusionary roaring fire in the Explorers’ Lounge. Here we feasted on treats, such as herring with rye bread and heart shaped waffles served with fresh berries and slithers of gjetjost, Norway’s fudgy, brown cheese. It set us up perfectly to potter around Copenhagen on our own. A pleasant walk along the waterfront, past the crowds paying homage to the Little Mermaid in the harbour, took us right to the centre. In the Design Museum we walked through a tunnel of 100 precious, 20th-century Danish chairs,
displayed like artworks, followed by lunch in the garden of the 18th-century former hospital. Back on board we spent the afternoon browsing the magnificent books in the Explorers’ Lounge with a break at 4pm for a lavish afternoon tea in the ship’s elegant Wintergarden. We relaxed, as we knew the next day was going to be a long one. The included tour from the port of WarnemÜnde is a day trip to Berlin. By chartering a train, some 750 of Viking Sea’s 930 passengers took the three-and-a-half-hour rail journey each way. Armed with maps provided by Viking, and fortified by the local speciality of take-away currywurst (sausages and chips smothered in spicy sauce) from a kiosk, we had four hours to scoot round Checkpoint Charlie, remnants of the Berlin Wall, the Reichstag and Brandenburg Gate and linger at the deeply moving Holocaust Memorial. Likewise, the days in Tallinn, Helsinki, and the overnights in St. Petersburg and Stockholm were perfect for revisiting favourite spots in interesting and very different cities. All great reasons to take a Viking Homelands cruise on delightful Scandi-chic Viking ships. A 15-day Viking Homelands cruise from Stockholm to Bergen starts from £4,440pp. vikingcruises.co.uk
We feasted on treats, such as herring with rye bread and heart shaped waffles
PHOTOS: © ALAMY
Clockwise, from facing page: Danish chairs in the Design Museum; the Little Mermaid in Copenhagen; the onboard Explorersʼ Lounge; walking the historic Berlin Wall
AUT UM N/ WINTER 2018 | VIKINGCRUISES.CO.UK
15
16
VIKINGCRUISES.CO.UK | AUT UM N/ WINTER 2018
C U LT U R E
Pablo Picasso
PARISIAN AT HEART Although Spanish by birth, the French capital was the place that fuelled Picasso’s artistic spirit, explains travel writer Catherine Balston
PHOTOS: © GETTY IMAGES
Clockwise from above: Pablo Picasso in his studio; admiring Les Desmoiselles d’Avignon, an oil painting by Picasso
P
ainter, sculptor, photographer and poet, Pablo Picasso was a titan of 20th-century art, and his name and unique style is recognised around the world. His oeuvre was prolific, spanning decades and styles, and elevating him from poverty to international fame over the course of his 91 years. Picasso was Spanish – born in Málaga in 1881, before moving to Barcelona, aged 13 – but he was also Parisian. Then the cultural capital of the world, Paris was to have as big an impact on Picasso’s work as he had on the city. AUT UM N/ WINTER 2018 | VIKINGCRUISES.CO.UK
17
PARIS
Picasso’s first visit to Paris was in 1900, aged 19, to show his work at the Exposition Universelle, and he returned soon after, to live in Montmartre, the “village on the hill”, as it was known, frequenting its bars and cafés with a cohort of avant-garde writers and artists. Picasso’s early years in Paris were poor but riotous, the city’s sleaze and bohemianism a potent catalyst for his creativity. It was in those early Paris years that Picasso, along with the French painter Georges Braque, developed Cubism, which caused a revolution in the way objects were seen and depicted. The artists’ subjects were at times barely perceptible: pieced-together fragments of light and shade. His masterpiece, Les Desmoiselles d’Avignon, painted in 1907, shocked those that saw it – the ugly, distorted faces of the five depicted ladies an offense to Renaissance ideals of female beauty. Cubism, and Picasso’s style, evolved and Parisian neighbourhoods rose and fell from the centre of the art world in line with Picasso’s movements. In the late 1920s and 1930s, involved in the Surrealist movement, Picasso would hold court in the cafés of the Left Bank, discussing art with radical intellectuals. And in the medieval streets of Saint-Germain-desPrés, Picasso became a symbol of occupied and then liberated Paris, after the Second World War. Paris 18
“Parisian neighbourhoods rose and fell in line with Picasso’s movements”
as inspiration, in the sun-soaked hills and coastline that had inspired Van Gogh, Cézanne, Chagall, Matisse and so many other artists.
AVIGNON
Clockwise, from facing page: The Montmartre district in Paris; Picasso loved to meet friends to debate art in the cafés of the Left Bank in Paris; Picasso’s famous painting, Guernica; the pretty, winding streets of Montmartre
VIKINGCRUISES.CO.UK | AUT UM N/ WINTER 2018
wasn’t to be his home till the end, however. By the late 1940s, Picasso spent more and more time in the South of France, where he moved for good in the late 1960s. Spain, however, was to remain forever the place of his childhood; after Franco quashed democracy in his 1939 Spanish Civil War victory, the principled Picasso would never go back. Paris may have been the pivot around which Picasso’s artistic life revolved for the best part of six decades, but Southern France is also Picasso country. From Antibes to Avignon, Picasso found love, as well
The grey stone churches and palaces of this Southern city lie behind the medieval walls of its perimeter. Picasso and Braques travelled to Avignon together in 1912, and spent much of the summer in the nearby village of Sorgues, just five miles away. It was there that the pair first started to experiment with papier collé – a collage technique considered revolutionary at the time, which Picasso played with over the following three years, attaching things like newspaper cuttings and musical instruments to his canvases.
ANTIBES
In 1936, with his mistress MarieThérèse Walter and their one-yearold daughter Maya in tow, Picasso left Paris and legal wrangles with
PHOTOS: © GETTY IMAGES
C U LT U R E
AUT UM N/ WINTER 2018 | VIKINGCRUISES.CO.UK
19
20
VIKINGCRUISES.CO.UK | AUT UM N/ WINTER 2018
C U LT U R E
his wife behind to escape to the French Riviera. He rented a villa in the seaside town of Juan-les-Pins. Ten years later, and two miles west along the coast, in Golfe-Juan, Picasso returned with a new spirit and a new mistress, Françoise Gilot. Revived by love and the end of the Second World War, Picasso produced dozens of drawings and paintings in a matter of months, the latter suffused with sunlight and references to Françoise, from cats to moon goddesses. He worked at night, in a studio set up in the guard’s hall of Château Grimaldi, a Roman fort in Antibes. Now the Musée Picasso, it houses all his paintings from that period; “Anyone who wants to see them will have to come to Antibes,” he declared, upon donating the great works to the museum.
PHOTOS: © GETTY IMAGES
VALLAURIS
It was around the same time, after the Second World War, that Picasso discovered a new obsession: ceramics. At the Madoura pottery studio in Vallauris, near Antibes, he would spend months at a time playing with forms, textures and glazes, and adorning utilitarian objects with playful motifs and Greek mythological figures. It was there in the studio, in 1953, that he met a new love – Jacqueline Roque, and they married in Vallauris eight years later. Vallauris has its own Musée Picasso in a château in the main square, with much of his ceramic work on display. The small, 14th-century chapel next door is treasured for its “War and Peace”
fresco. The diptych was painted on wood panels lining the vaulted ceiling, and was Picasso’s last major political work, a statement of his commitment to peace.
AIX-EN-PROVENCE
In 1958, by then a long-established international celebrity, Picasso bought the grand Château de Vauvenargues, at the foot of Montagne Sainte-Victoire, overlooking Aixen-Provence. He reportedly told his dealer he had bought Cézanne’s Sainte-Victoire; the French master had immortalised the mountain
Clockwise, from facing page: The dramatic coastline in the coastal town of Antibes; Pablo Picasso discovered ceramics after the Second World War
in many of his paintings. Picasso, Jacqueline and her daughter Catherine moved to the château in 1959, though only for two years before moving back to the Côte d’Azur, until Picasso’s death in 1973. Picasso and Jacqueline are both buried in the grounds of the château, and lucky visitors had a rare glimpse of their life there when Catherine opened it to visitors in 2009. There are rumours of her plans to open a Musée Jacqueline et Pablo Picasso in a nearby convent, in 2021, to display her collection of over 2,000 works.
MUSÉE PICASSO, PARIS More than 5,000 works of art, as well as a 200,000-strong archive of personal items, make this the leading Picasso collection in the world. Housed in a Baroque mansion in Le Marais district, it finally re-opened in 2014 following an ambitious five-year overhaul. museepicassoparis.fr
Don’t forget to share your photos at MyVikingStory.com AUT UM N/ WINTER 2018 | VIKINGCRUISES.CO.UK
21
22
VIKINGCRUISES.CO.UK | AUT UM N/ WINTER 2018
T R AV E L
Ukraine:
THE GOLDEN CHILD
Cassie Wilcox sailed the River Dnieper from Kiev to Odessa on a journey like no other, through a truly unique land
T
PHOTOS: Š ADOBE STOCK
here is a giant bronze monument at the entrance to Ukraine’s port of Odessa on the Black Sea. The Golden Child depicts a strong, muscular baby pushing his way out of a shell, a huge smile on his face as he emerges with confidence, unencumbered, into the world. The striking sculpture was a gift to the city from the American artist Ernst Neizvestney in 1995, and is just as relevant today. It is a symbol of Ukraine breaking free from the
confines of the past, a golden child representing a new golden age. There are some lands that are so different that they really do need to be experienced to be understood and appreciated. Ukraine is one such land. As we sailed nearly 600 miles along the River Dnieper, we were able to witness for ourselves the unfolding of this vast country. All from the comfort of our welcoming ship, Viking Sineus. Our journey began in the capital, Kiev, where elegant Art Nouveau architecture sits
alongside Soviet-era buildings. Wide boulevards, huge squares with ornate statues and fountains lend a European flavour. The city is green with parks and forested hills, punctuated with incredible monuments, including the impressive, UNESCO-listed Monastery of the Caves. This multi-domed complex of churches and monasteries was founded in the 11th century. At its towering belfry, we heard the sound of a priest chanting and a choir singing in the nearby Dormition Cathedral. Equally divine was the Refectory Church, with its stunning frescoes. The Church of the Saviour at Berestove is close by, recognisable by its green domes. But it is the medieval network of underground caves that most of our group were intrigued to see. This sacred site contains 51 mummified bodies of monks and saints. With only candles to light our way, we descended the narrow steps and filed past the open coffins whose contents are covered, save that of Saint Ilya Muromets, whose
Clockwise, from right: The Motherland Monument looks out over beautiful Kiev; a traditional dwelling at Pirogovo Open-Air Museum of Architecture; sunflowers are the national flower of Ukraine; The Golden Child sculpture was gifted to Ukraine in 1995; pickled produce on sale at a local food market
brown withered hand is visible. The churches are still today a place of pilgrimage for many visitors. The next stop on our tour was the glorious St. Sophia Cathedral. Built over nine centuries, with sections of the original 11thcentury, brown and pink stones intact, it boasts many stunning features, including an Art Nouveau floor made of cast iron, and a mesmerising cupola adorned with angels painted by masters, including Rubens. Our ship was docked in Kiev for three days, which is ample time to see the highlights. As well as an included daily excursion, Viking offers a number of optional tours, including a visit to Kiev War Museum, and one on which you can explore the city’s Jewish history. I opted to join our chef, Pawel, on a trip to Kiev’s central food market. Here, we savoured a selection of traditional Ukrainian foods. Salo is a Ukrainian staple. Cured pork fat, it is served on rye bread, washed down with a shot of vodka. The freshly-baked Ukrainian bread with cheese was exquisite, as was my personal favourite – pickled 24
VIKINGCRUISES.CO.UK | AUT UM N/ WINTER 2018
cucumbers with garlic and dill. Silence descended on the group as we tasted the cranberry cheesecake, simply the best cheesecake ever. Good food is guaranteed when you travel with Viking, and every day on board we were treated to a mouth-watering variety of dishes, including Ukrainian specialities. You’ve had red borscht with beetroot, but have you had green borscht with sorrel? You’ve dined on Beef Wellington, but have you dined on salmon and rice wrapped in melt-in-your-mouth pastry? You’ve tasted sorbet, but have you tasted sorbet made with fresh, juicy watermelons? Ukrainian wines (who knew?) are equally delicious, and with lunch and dinner the
PHOTOS: © SVITLANACHICHKOVA/ADOBE STOCK
Good food is guaranteed when you travel with Viking, and we were treated to a mouth-watering variety of dishes
T R AV E L
complimentary wines flowed freely; a fragrant and flowery Muscat Dnieper, and a robust yet elegant Cabernet Dnieper were both appreciated and admired by wine lovers on board. From Kiev, we visited Pirogovo Open-Air Museum of Architecture, a collection of more than 200 buildings, relocated from all over Ukraine. Even the roads, or dirt tracks, are authentic. Like many of the excursions on this trip, there was an ‘active’ version if you felt like walking further. Wandering around the different houses, the church and the school was a brilliant insight into how everyday life was lived in Ukraine. The attention to detail was absolutely extraordinary, and AUT UM N/ WINTER 2018 | VIKINGCRUISES.CO.UK
25
made even more interesting with our knowledgeable guides. A cherry tree planted at the entrance to your home symbolised a farm. A snow bush, clean water. And if its red flowers were hanging on the front door, the message was that here lives a girl waiting to be a bride! Sailing south out of Kiev, we passed the Motherland statue, a monumental 102 metres high, constructed under Soviet rule. Across the river, children played on a city beach, their parents relaxing nearby in the sun. Soon, the city gives way to green wooded islands, and all you can hear is the gentle lapping of the water. Fishermen in small dinghies dot the horizon. A small yacht traverses the river, its red hull glinting in the sunlight. A heron stands motionless among the reeds. At one point, the Dnieper is a staggering 15 miles wide and resembles a lake, still and deep. It is, without doubt, the most peaceful river I have cruised. Kremenchug is an important industrial city, in the centre of which is an impressive monument depicting the heroes of the city during its Nazi occupation. From here, we drove through Ukraine’s largest oil refinery to the village of Omel’nyk, famous for its organic vegetable production, and at the end of a little road lined with poplar trees, we visited the modest
One of the many wonderful things about travelling with Viking is you don’t just visit a country, you get to know it Clockwise, from top left: Folk art on display at the Petrykivka Folk Art Museum; the stunning interiors of the Transfiguration Cathedral in Odessa; the Cossack Museum, Khortitsa; textiles on display at the Dnipro Museum of History; Odessa’s Art Museum
26
VIKINGCRUISES.CO.UK | AUT UM N/ WINTER 2018
home of Galyna, our friendly Viking home host. With its black, fertile soil, Ukraine is the breadbasket of Europe. Like many country folk, there is nothing that Galyna doesn’t grow in her garden – garlic, onions, dill, eggplant, tomatoes, cucumbers, apples, pears and cherries – you name it, she grows it. And with it, she bakes delicious pastries, cakes and biscuits which we were treated to – as well as vodka made from grapes grown in her abundant garden. The visit was a unique opportunity to chat with Galyna, through our translator, about her life in Ukraine. Understanding first hand how people live in other countries, and how different – and yet similar – our lives are, is the most humbling experience. In Dnipro, another huge industrial city and financial centre, we visited the Museum of History, its entrance marked by ancient stone effigies dating back to the 4th century BC. Inside, we were given an excellent potted history of Ukraine and its people, including the Cossacks. Originally Tatar horsemen and peasants, the Cossacks escaped ownership in Poland and Lithuania in the 16th and 17th centuries (Cossack translates as ‘free man’), and fled to Ukraine where they lived in all-male communities, and often worked as farmers and traders, as well as fighters. “Take good care of your cat!” The guide at Petrykivka Folk Art Museum was explaining how the best paintbrushes are made with cat hair. “The healthier your cat, the softer the hair, the better your brush and your work of art.” It is worth mentioning that no cat is harmed in the process. Simple, yet intricate, Petrykivka folk art is on UNESCO’s list of cultural treasures. It first appeared 200 years ago, made by women to decorate their homes. In Petrykivka we visited both the museum and a school where the art is still taught, and where we bought some gorgeous painted pieces, including wooden bowls and spoons, each a true original signed by the artist. Zaporozhye is another historic city, one which boasts a rich Cossack history and, more recently, an enormous hydro-electric dam. From here, we drove to the island of Khortitsa, a green oasis for the city’s residents and home to the
T R AV E L
Of Viking’s many excursions in Odessa, I chose to visit Ackerman Fortress, close to the border of Moldova. Swallows were flying over the towers of the citadel, which clung to the rocks above the sea, a one-time impenetrable barrier to the land. Our drive back to the city took us past vineyards and through countryside, with small dwellings, where people live simply, and work hard on their patch of land. One of the many wonderful things about travelling with Viking is that you don’t just visit a country, you get to know it really well. I didn’t just learn, I understood. I didn’t just look, I went inside. Inside not just grand buildings but humble village houses. I talked with local people, ate with them, and was privileged to share their world. Odessa Day is 2 September and, by good fortune, our last day. The sun was shining and all of Odessa had come out to play. After our visit to the city’s art museum, with its remarkable collection of Ukrainian paintings, I walked back to our ship through the celebrations. It was an uplifting finale to our journey; being amongst a crowd of joyous young people. All celebrating their love for their city and their country, their pride in their past and their faith in their future. A golden future, for the golden children.
FAST FACTS CAPITAL CITY: Kiev, located on the banks of the River Dnieper. CURRENCY: The Hryvnia (UAH) has been the national currency since September 1996. AREA: Including Crimea, Ukraine has an area of just over 233,000 square miles, making it the largest country entirely within Europe. LANGUAGE: Ukrainian is the official national language, an Eastern Slavic language spoken by approximately two-thirds of the population. Russian is also widely spoken in urban areas. POPULATION: Ukraine has a population of approximately 44 million, and it is estimated that 70% of the population is urban. ECONOMY: Ukraine’s economy suffered due to the dissolution of the Soviet Union in 1991, but it is now classed as an emerging free market, and the World Bank announced in April 2017 that the country had emerged out of recession. NATIONAL SYMBOLS: The national colours of Ukraine are blue and yellow, and also make up the country’s flag. Borscht is the official national dish and football is the country’s favoured sport.
An 11-day river cruise Kiev to the Black Sea starts at £3,495pp. vikingcruises.co.uk
PHOTOS: © GETTY IMAGES/ISTOCK
Cossack museum, a recreation of an original Cossack settlement. Most entertaining was a Cossack show in which they showed off their legendary horsemanship, and their sense of humour in an enjoyable and amusing performance. Kherson was our last port of call before the river becomes a sea. The Black Sea is actually dark green, and as we sailed to Odessa I couldn’t help but imagine those first explorers, including the Vikings, pushing their way across these waters to unknown lands. It felt synchronous that today’s Viking is also a pioneer, the only cruise line in the UK to sail this route. Odessa, for many, was the highlight of the trip. Elegant and gracious, a colourful fusion of pastel-hued buildings, it was founded by Catherine the Great and her favourite man, Prince Potemkin. Yet this strategically located port has been inhabited since ancient times, and is now a popular resort which, like Kiev, is a destination in its own right. The palaces along its leafy promenade have been transformed into smart hotels, from where you can walk down the famous Potemkin Steps to the sea. When Russian writer Pushkin visited Odessa, he wrote that “Everything smells of Europe”. Not surprising when you learn that the city’s founders paid European architects to design it, including its Opera House, which is arguably the finest building in the city.
This page: the juxtaposition of old and new is evident in Ukraine’s cityscapes today
28
VIKINGCRUISES.CO.UK | AUT UM N/ WINTER 2018
T R AV E L
GET THE SHOT PANASONIC LUMIX, £499.99, VERY.CO.UK
This beautiful retro-style camera is lightweight and looks great. It’s ideal for capturing your adventures. ON BAGS OF STYLE, FROM REX LOND
COVER UP SCARF, £39, CREW CLOTHING
Women are required to wear a headscarf or hat when visiting churches. This scarf is perfect and will keep you warm too.
Packing
ESSENTIALS
Inspired by her recent cruise, Cassie Wilcox shares her best travel buys
EMERALD WATERS SWIMSUIT, £24.99, SWIMWEAR365.CO.UK
For sunshine and sandy beaches, head to Kiev (by the river) and Odessa (by the sea). And don’t forget to pack your favourite swimming costume.
HAPPY FEET TRAINERS, £45 MARKS AND SPENCER
These comfortable, yet practical, walking shoes will enable you to explore for hours.
LITTLE THANK YOU CHOCOLATES, £8, HOTEL CHOCOLAT
A small gift is a lovely way to thank your host for taking care of you. STAY DRY PAC A MAC, £16, MATALAN
Just in case it rains! AUT UM N/ WINTER 2018 | VIKINGCRUISES.CO.UK
29
The mellow season
Garden designer, Paul Hervey-Brookes, shares his thoughts on autumnal gardening and preparing for the winter ahead
A
Above: Enjoy the colours and shapes in your garden this autumn and winter; Paul Hervey-Brookes is an award-winning garden designer
30
utumn is well and truly upon us and with winter around the corner, this is the time to put the garden to bed. For many of us, cutting back and tidying are the order of the day. I have always considered myself a good gardener for not being tempted to cut back too soon! It is not laziness but a practical approach, allowing plants to shed their seeds, ensuring small birds have plenty to eat, and giving myself the glory of watching the garden go from the intense reds and oranges of autumn flower to the mellow golds of
VIKINGCRUISES.CO.UK | AUT UM N/ WINTER 2018
frosted garden structures in January and February. When considering food for birds, my most useful or all-round star is lovage (Levisticum Officinale). A herbaceous umbel which reaches 6ft in late summer, its seeds are rich and oily which is ideal for birds, but for us its foliage (dry or fresh) is a highly useful cooking ingredient used across Europe to flavour stocks and soups. It can also be used as a tea, which is high in antiseptic qualities and used as an immune booster. The best news for gardeners is it’s easy and reliable to grow from seed. I would not be without winter honeysuckle, a woody shrub which is quite dull and green in summer comes into its
own as a wonderful web of golden brown stems and pure white, highly fragranced flowers. One stem is enough to fill the house with scent. Coupled with hellebores, and the Christmas box (Sarcococca Confusa), a useful evergreen shrub again covered in highly scented flowers over winter, these make up the cornerstone of my plantings. The winter garden should also remind us of the lean months. It is not about the riot and glut of summer, but more an appreciation of bark colours, structural shapes and small pleasures. So leave the main push of tidying until February and watch as the season of mellow fruitfulness falls into a season of lean pleasures. Feed the birds and protect tender plants, keep ponds clear of ice and remember to lift plants like dahlias for storage over winter.
GARDENING
A festive wreath From ancient Rome to the modern day, wreaths on doors have symbolised everything from Victory to Easter. To be honest, Autumn and Winter are my favourite times for door welcomes. Many of us have one at Christmas, but across Europe and America they can be seen at Easter, celebrating Harvest and increasingly, at other festivals too. I love seeing them dressed with vegetables and fruits alongside flowers and foliage, it gives a real sense of the seasons and an amazing welcome for friends and guests visiting. It may come as a surprise but if you have some well chosen shrubs, flowers and a few little extras (picked up at a market or from the allotment) they can be surprisingly easy to make. And, elegant wreaths can also be used as indoor decorations and,
when laid flat, make easy table centrepieces with a church candle placed in the middle. If you’d like to make your own, the main rule is to keep it simple. Blocks of two or three things will look better than lots of little bits and if you are going for a modern feel, don’t be tempted by additional decorative flourishes! If you wanted to follow the guide below for a Christmas wreath then add in buxus, spruce foliage and holly, which can be purchased from florists from early December onwards. Then add anything fruit-based like, oranges, lemons and even pomegranates. Decorate with baubles or tree decorations which you can wire on and add a little spray glitter to give it a frosted look. This is the moment for a large tartan ribbon to make a big bow!
How to make your own wreath 1 Fill the oasis ring with pieces of lavender or rosemary cut into 5cm long pieces. Pack them in to get a nice even fill. I tend to cut shorter pieces for the inside of the ring and slightly longer for the outside to get a good dome.
WHAT YOU NEED: - A medium oasis wreath ring - Rosemary or lavender - Dried orange slices (easily done in the Aga or on the very lowest setting of a conventional oven) - Dried chillies, twigs or cinnamon sticks (good for fragrance) - Thick florist wire
PHOTOS: © ISTOCK
Before you start, cut the rosemary the day before and allow it to stand in water overnight in a cool place. Pre-soak the oasis ring in water for an hour.
4 Take your dried oranges (or other dried fruits) and chillies and wire in the same fashion. I used six orange slices and nine chillies. You could use apple, lemon and garlic, or other herbs. 5 Place the orange slices in the middle of the three spaces created by the twigs. 6 Use the chillies in the same way, grouped through and around the orange slices. Use odd numbers for a natural look. The wreath should last up to four weeks if watered, and will fill your room with fragrance.
2 Using twine or raffia, tightly tie bunches of twigs or cinnamon. I made three and this makes placing it on the wreath easy! Loop a single piece of floristry wire through the string and twist. 3 Peg the twigs into the wreath by pushing the wire into the oasis ring. Try to aim for a balanced, symmetrical look.
AUT UM N/ WINTER 2018 | VIKINGCRUISES.CO.UK
31
The 8th Earl and Countess of Carnarvon invite you to join them for some festive activities this December at their home Highclere Castle – the Real ‘Downton Abbey’. For more information on all these events, and to book tickets, please visit: www.highclerecastle.co.uk email: theoffice@highclerecastle.co.uk or call 01635 253210
Highclere Castle NEWBURY RG20 9RN
Listen to the carol singers in the Saloon and shop for all your Christmas presents at the stalls, which fill the State Rooms in the Castle and the Courtyard behind.
Join us as we gather in the Castle Courtyard at 11:00am come rain or shine as we sing together during the short Service, to raise money for Médecins Sans Frontières (Doctors without Borders). Afterwards, you will be able to tour the Castle and the Egyptian Exhibition.
Enjoy the Christmas decorations, carols and warming traditional food all day in the tearooms. If the weather permits, take in the magic of a winter garden touched with frost and mist.
COLUMN
ON LOCATION with Karine As Senior Vice President of Viking, Karine Hagen is constantly on the move. Here she shares her latest adventures, news and tips
Karine and Rod at Highclere Castle for Christmas with the Countess of Carnarvon and good friends Michael and Daphne Dormer
Festive baking
My grandmother, Mamsen, used to bake seven different types of Christmas cookies (known as ‘småkaker’ or ‘julekaker’), until she was well into her 90s. Nothing conjures up Christmas for me like the taste of freshly baked småkaker, which we serve on board our ocean ships, in Mamsen’s.
WINTER WONDERLAND Europe’s Christmas markets are where the spirit and romance of the holidays come alive. It’s not just the markets that have all the magic of the holidays, but Viking ships are adorned in festive attire as well. Using Europe’s original highways, the rivers, you can explore the Christmas markets of
CHRISTMAS DINNER Roasted pork belly, or ribbe, is a traditional Christmas dish in Oslo and in south and east Norway. The real test to a great ribbe is getting the svor (crackling) right, and making sure it is scored properly. You can find our family recipe in The Kitchen Table cook book.
Budapest, Vienna, Prague and Paris, as well as many smaller villages along the way. The markets are very different and each one has its own character. Closer to home, Highclere Castle also has a wonderful Christmas market in December. exploringmore.com/video/christmas-markets
NORDIC GLØGG The perfect drink for a cold and frosty evening: 1 bottle of red wine 1-2 sticks cinnamon 5g dried root ginger 5g dried orange peel 7 green cardamom pods 15-16 whole cloves 80g (3oz) sugar Flaked almonds and raisins A splash of vodka, aquavit, rum or cognac Pour the wine into a pan, add the spices and heat to around 80°C/176°F, stirring to dissolve the sugar. Remove from the heat and leave to infuse for at least an hour. To serve, reheat and place a few flaked almonds and raisins in the bottom of a cup, then pour in the gløgg. Add a splash of aquavit or vodka for an added kick.
AUTUMN/ WINTER 2018 | VIKINGCRUISES.CO.UK
33
A musical memorial
The Great War Symphony commemorates the 100th anniversary of the end of World War One. Composer Patrick Hawes discusses his work What sparked the idea for The Great War Symphony?
For as long as I can remember, I have always known about the First World War. Bert, my maternal grandfather, spent a lot of time with us as children, and I can clearly remember that he was deaf in one ear and had a finger missing because of the war. Every day, he would sing war songs and would march my brother and myself to bed, banging on a metal tray from the bar in my dad’s pub. As I grew older, he would talk to me about his experiences in the trenches. For him, the horrors remained real, and I had an immense sense of respect for him that he’d come through all that to become the selfless and generous man he was. Fast forward fifty years and I found myself staring the imminent centenary of the First World War in the face. I love my country and am deeply proud of its heritage and it was so clear to me that I should write a work to mark this important anniversary. As a result of a conversation with a respected musical colleague, over a drink after a recording session at Abbey Road studios, a much more ambitious plan was hatched: how wonderful it would be to
write a monumental choral symphony about the First World War. Such ideas rarely stand the cold light of day – but this one stuck with me. What was the inspiration behind the texts used?
I spent about eighteen months thinking about and researching the texts I would use. When I look at a text that really moves me, the music often seems to write itself. Very quickly, musical ideas and even fully developed themes, present themselves. Like many people, I had studied the Great War poets at school, but I also read hundreds of poems by unknown war poets and a few of these found their way into the symphony. The most notable of these is The Dead Soldier by Sydney Oswald. I spent days reading letters from the trenches back to loved ones and countless graphic descriptions of battles in diaries. An entry from Siegfried Sassoon’s diary on the first day of the Battle of the Somme, for instance, ends the second movement of the symphony. I became increasingly drawn to the inscriptions on war memorials and old announcements in the press. I chose two Clockwise, from this image: Patrick Hawes discovered his great uncle's grave, just outside Arras in the French countryside
34
VIKINGCRUISES.CO.UK | AUT UM N/ WINTER 2018
announcements in the Liverpool Echo of sailors who had died as the basis for reflection on the Battle of Jutland. And then there is the most personal of all the texts which I decided to use for the duet in the third movement. Whilst I was writing the symphony, I spent days searching for my great uncle Harry’s grave and discovered it in the middle of glorious countryside just outside Arras. There were fifty or so graves of men buried where they fell in October 1916. Most had little or no inscription below their names, but my uncle’s bore the words ‘He lies with England’s heroes in the watchful care of God’. A few metres away lay the body of Harry’s comrade, Sidney Peart, and his inscription read, ‘May his reward be as great as his sacrifice’. Two beautifully balanced lines of poetry directly from the hearts of those who loved these men the most. The words on Harry’s grave would have been written by my great grandparents Thomas and Elizabeth Hawes. And so I set them for
C U LT U R E those many hundreds of thousands of young men who gave their lives for our nation, a century ago.
Have you ever been on a river or ocean cruise?
The symphony is split into four movements, what is the importance of the titles for each movement?
PHOTOS: © ALAMY
Originally, I was just going to title each movement with the relevant 12-month period of the war – 1914-1915, 19151916 and so on. This reflection of the four individual years of the war is important but I quickly became aware once I started to write the symphony that each movement needed a more descriptive title and, of course, the titles I have used all have musical connotations. Praeludium leads us through the outbreak of war, the early optimism and then a sense of harsh reality. I prefer the title ‘Praeludium’ to ‘Prelude’ because it has more gravitas and is also the German version of this word. March reflects a year in the war which was much more active both on land and at sea. The movement actually begins with a snare drum and marching rhythms, which recur throughout. The devastating third year of the war saw little movement on the fronts, and Elegy is similarly more still as well as reflective. In effect, it is a lament for all those who felt the full pain of love and bereavement through the war. The Finale aims to convey the stalemate, which existed between the two sides towards the end of the war through to the Armistice. The end of this movement becomes an act of remembrance with The Last Post sounding over the words, “they shall grow not old”. the duet in the hope that my music would do justice to the immense love which these men had generated. By the time I had chosen those texts which I knew would inspire me the most and provide the strongest foundation for the symphony, I felt the hardest work was done. My creative tank was full and all I then had to do was build musical themes and textures around the framework. I find the actual process of composition quite easy. I am frequently reminded of a sculptor looking at a huge block of stone and envisaging the statue inside: he does not create the sculpture, but reveals what is already within. As long as I completely believe in what I am writing about, I hold to a similar tenet that I am not a composer, but a ‘discoverer’. I could not believe more fully in a work, as I do The Great War Symphony and I have approached it with complete faith, hope and love. I have a hope that it will recreate something of the truly important heritage bequeathed to us by
Do you have a favourite part of the symphony?
There are so many sections of the symphony that are close to my heart. I am particularly pleased with the way I have set The Dead Soldier at the end of the third movement, but if I had to take one piece from the work to a desert island it would be the duet from the Elegy which uses words taken from the gravestone of my Great Uncle Harry who died in the early stages of the battle of the Somme. How has this composition compared to your others?
This is the largest work I have composed to date. My Lazarus Requiem is about the same length, but The Great War Symphony is based on more diverse texts and is more complex, both orchestrally and chorally. For me, it is also the work which conveys more than any other, what I believe it is to be English. Never before have I had to attempt to distil the emotions of a nation at such an important juncture in its entire history.
I haven’t yet experienced either! I am not a good passenger when it comes to being at sea, but I would really love to experience a river cruise. There is something about it which seems to be an elegant and civilised way to see the world. If you could cruise anywhere in the world, where would you go?
It would have to be a river cruise along the Danube because it flows through some of the greatest cities in the world – many of them great musical centres. It would almost be like a musical pilgrimage for me and I’m sure the whole experience would be a source of inspiration. What’s more, I would be able to practice my German which has become a bit rusty! What would your cruise playlist consist of?
Given my previous answer, The Blue Danube would have to feature! I know I would also be reminded along the way of Mozart’s sojourns in the great cities of Europe and so I would listen to Mozart symphonies. Arriving in Budapest, I would switch to Liszt’s wonderful piano transcriptions of Bach. As always, I would be sure that I had plenty of Renaissance music to hand and there might even be a bit of 80’s Soul in there too! What are your top three bucket-list destinations?
I was in Toronto recently for a recording and loved Canada and would now like to explore the west coast of this amazing country. New Zealand is a definite for the rich sea and landscapes and also the Caribbean to completely relax! What three things do you never travel without?
Some manuscript paper and pencil is first on the list for those sudden moments of inspiration. Second would be The Daily Telegraph because I do the Cryptic Crossword every day. And finally, I find a good gin and tonic always helps on a long journey! How do travel destinations influence your work?
On the one hand, places like Florence, Paris, and Vienna, which are steeped in culture, are obvious sources of inspiration for any creative person as are places with dramatic landscapes. On the other, I also really enjoy trips to sunny destinations where I can switch off the phone and step away from the piano to recalibrate, and come back ready to write more music. Discover more about the works of Patrick Hawes: classicfm.com/live
AUT UM N/ WINTER 2018 | VIKINGCRUISES.CO.UK
35
Saddlebag (£189, Hobbs)
For women...
Checked skirt (£99, Hobbs)
Mix your winter whites with cosy camel tones and add a hint of this season’s must-have leopard print for a modern look Patterned wrap (£33, Wallis)
Casual trainers (£149, Hush)
Winter
trends
Kate Finney seeks out the best new fashion pieces to update your wardrobe this winter
Leopard-print midi dress (£50, Wallis)
Leather gloves (£49, Hobbs) Small Bric’s holdall (£325, Amara)
Sheepskin parka (£1,525, Celtic & Co.)
FA S H I O N
Cashmere stole (£159, Celtic & Co.) Sheepskin coat (£1,275, Celtic & Co.)
and for men...
Warm autumnal colours will be a useful addition throughout the winter months
Jasper Conran boots (£100, Debenhams)
Knitted scarf (£35, White Stuff) Tassel earrings (£10, Next)
Checked shirt (£25, Next)
Resin watch (£28, Next)
Twill trousers (£25, Next)
Tan gloves (£40, Debenhams)
Double-breasted coat (£88, Next) Wax jacket (£145, White Stuff)
Printed wrap (£45, Laura Ashley)
Suede trainers (£149, Hush) SPR ING 2018 | VIKINGCRUISES.CO.UK
37
2019-2020 OCEAN CRUISES Iconic Western Mediterranean 8 days, 5 guided tours Barcelona – Rome
From £2,240pp West Indies Explorer 11 days, 9 guided tours San Juan roundtrip
From £2,840pp Viking Homelands 15 days, 11 guided tours Stockholm – Bergen
From £4,440pp Into the Midnight Sun 15 days, 10 guided tours Bergen – London
From £4,990pp Alaska & the Inside Passage 11 days, 7 guided tours Vancouver – Seward
2019-2020 Viking ocean cruises on sale now from £2,240pp
Across the world, from the sun-kissed islands of the Caribbean and wonderful wildlife of Alaska to the ancient cities of the Med and spectacular beauty of Scandinavia, there’s a Viking ocean cruise for you. From the comfort of a stunning, small ship that is home to just 930 guests, take in the view from your veranda stateroom. Relax in spacious, contemporary surroundings. Indulge in fabulous food in a choice of restaurants. Explore the culture and history of the places you visit on expertly led tours. And discover a unique and exciting new view of the world.
GREAT VIKING VALUE – SO MUCH INCLUDED Return flights from the UK Stateroom with a private veranda Free Wi-Fi on board Free use of spa facilities An included excursion in almost every port P All meals on board in a choice of dining venues, including wine, beer and soft drinks with lunch and dinner
P P P P P
P On board gratuities P Free 24-hour room service P Free tea, coffee and snacks any time on board P Evening entertainment on board P All port charges, government taxes and overseas transfers
From £4,540pp Iceland’s Majestic Landscapes 13 days, 9 guided tours Bergen – Reykjavík
From £4,490pp Empires of the Mediterranean 10 days, 8 guided tours Venice – Athens
From £3,240pp Australia & New Zealand 15 days, 9 guided tours Sydney – Auckland
From £6,740pp Bangkok, Bali & Beyond 13 days, 7 guided tours Bangkok – Bali
From £4,685pp South America & the Chilean Fjords 18 days, 8 guided tours Buenos Aires – Santiago
From £6,890pp Italian Sojourn 8 days, 6 guided tours Rome – Venice
From £2,440pp In Search of the Northern Lights 13 days, 6 guided tours London – Bergen
From £3,790pp
Call now on 020 8780 7900 or visit vikingcruises.co.uk Prices correct at time of going to print but are subject to availability and change. From prices are per person and based on two people sharing the lowest grade stateroom available, departing on selected dates in 2019-2020. Prices valid until 31 December 2018. Single supplements 100%. Please note that duration of cruises shown is the cruise only. Total duration including flights of certain itineraries may be longer. Gratuities included on board ship only. For more information please visit vikingcruises.co.uk/terms-conditions or call us.
T R AV E L
TIME for TEA From traditional to quirky, there’s an Afternoon Tea to suit every taste in London, says travel writer Holly Tuppen
tennis tournament or mince pies and brandy butter at Christmas. Anna, the 7th Duchess of Bedford, is said to have invented the concept in 1840 after deciding that the wait between breakfast and dinner was too long. She started hosting ladies for tea and a light snack and by the mid-19th century the idea had attracted all of London’s most fashionable society. Today, Afternoon Tea is an excellent way to soak up the ambience of top hotels, sit among the capital’s most beautiful interiors, and treat yourself. With so many variations on offer, we've rounded up our favourites...
PHOTOS: © GETTY IMAGES
A
ccording to Confucius, ‘Tea tempers the spirits and harmonises the mind, dispels lassitude and relieves fatigue, refreshes the body, and clears the perceptive faculties’, which makes it sound like a sensible choice to overcome a mid-afternoon lull. Unfortunately, Confucius didn’t take his Afternoon Tea as we do, with three tiers of finger sandwiches, doughy scones, lashings of cream and dainty desserts, let alone a glass of champagne. Afternoon Tea has become an English tradition loved as much as strawberries and cream at Wimbledon's
AUT UM N/ WINTER 2018 | VIKINGCRUISES.CO.UK
39
Traditional: THE RITZ, GREEN PARK
The Ritz remains the pinnacle of traditional British luxury and, rumour has it, serves a staggering 350 Afternoon Teas a day. This Christmas, The Ritz is sprinkling some fairy dust over their menu to bring some festive cheer on frosty afternoons. Whether you have a soft spot for ornate interiors or not, the Palm Court’s décor alone is enough to make you swoon – palm throngs are dwarfed by marble pillars, glistening chandeliers and gold-gilt mirrors. And all surrounding a beautiful Christmas tree. An assortment of festive British tea pastries and warm mince pies will accompany the more traditional dainty tiers of sweet and savoury delicacies, such as The Ritz’s infamous finger sandwiches – egg mayonnaise with chopped shallots and watercress on a brioche roll or smoked salmon with lemon butter on sourdough bread.
Daily with sittings at 11.30, 13.30, 15.30, 17.30 and 19.30 From £57pp
theritzlondon.com
This image: Afternoon Tea at the Ritz is a wonderfully festive affair
40
VIKINGCRUISES.CO.UK | AUT UM N/ WINTER 2018
This image: Antiques are hung on deep red walls, with high-backed armchairs and mahogany tables at Zetter Townhouse
T R AV E L
Secret spot: ZETTER TOWNHOUSE, MARYLEBONE
For an Afternoon Tea with heaps of personality, try Zetter Townhouse’s cosy Seymour’s Parlour. This independent hotel has been designed to feel like the home of an eccentric relative; antique treasures are hung on deep red walls, and high-backed armchairs are arranged around mahogany tables. Guests are given the option of Aunt Wilhelmina’s more delicate finger sandwiches, including smoked chicken Caesar and smoked salmon, or Uncle Seymour’s hearty treats, including devilled eggs and truffled sausage rolls. Both are followed with scones, red velvet cake and vanilla choux, accompanied by a selection of teas. Sporting some great eco credentials, The Zetter Group prides itself on serving only local, seasonal and sustainably sourced food. Seymour’s Parlour is home to awardwinning mixologists, so we recommend the tea-infused cocktails too. Daily 12.00 – 17.00 From £35pp
thezettertownhouse.com
“Anna, the 7th Duchess of Bedford, invented the concept in 1840, saying the wait between breakfast and dinner was too long” Novelty:
PHOTOS: © INSYMMETRY PHOTOGRAPHY/ZETTER TOWNHOUSE/ST ERMIN'S HOTEL
ST ERMIN’S HOTEL, WESTMINSTER
After browsing the traditional shops, admiring the Georgian squares, meandering along the cobbled alleyways and marvelling at the Palace of Westminster, sitting down for a spot of tea will be a welcome rest. Sandwiched between the bustle of Victoria and leafy St James’s Park, St Ermin’s Hotel is tucked away in a tree-lined courtyard. The building itself is also packed with history: Winston Churchill held a historic meeting here in 1940. Afternoon Tea is served in the Tea Lounge, with a Honeybee theme. Delicious offerings include a variety of sandwiches and delicate savoury bites, such as honey roast vegetable and salt beef and honey mustard slaw sandwiches, as well as seasonal sweet treats such as ginger and honey macaron and white chocolate mousse with honey sponge and honey caramel. You can also visit the bee terrace to see the hotel’s 350,000 Buckfast honeybees. Daily at 12.00 – 18.00 From £29pp
sterminshotel.co.uk AUT UM N/ WINTER 2018 | VIKINGCRUISES.CO.UK
41
T R AV E L
Eccentric:
SKETCH, MAYFAIR
It’s easy to lose several hours to sweet treats, bubbles and cocktails in this striking space. Afternoon Tea here is a theatrical affair, in keeping with the building’s creative history. 9 Conduit Street was designed by James Wyatt in 1779 and since then has been home to the Royal Institute of British Architects and the London Atelier of Christion Dior. In 2002 restauranteur Mourad Mazouz took over the property to celebrate art, food and drink. Tea is served in The Gallery where artworks by Turner Prize nominee David Shrigley fill the walls. Decorated almost entirely in pink, with velvet-chairs and Art Deco floor tiles, you’d be forgiven for wanting to take a bite out of the room itself. Sketch’s well-groomed staff are attentive with refills and the petit gâteau and finger sandwiches are plentiful. Daily 11.30 – 16.30 From £59pp sketch.london
42
VIKINGCRUISES.CO.UK | AUT UM N/ WINTER 2018
The best of the rest ART LOVERS
FASHIONISTAS
BLENDED TEA
The Rosewood Hotel’s ‘Art Afternoon Tea’ menu is based on the capital's vibrant and eclectic art scene, and includes a Banksy chocolate cube and Calder pistachio bavarois. The hotel’s elegant Mirror Room makes a pleasant contemporary alternative to the more traditional establishments.
Prêt-à-Portea at The Berkeley Hotel is fashion-themed, with delicacies based on the latest catwalk designs of London and Paris. Changing every six months, Head Pastry Chef Mourad Khait bakes à la mode fancies that include a Victoria Sponge Valentino bag and a Dolce & Gabbana patisserie accessory. A very fashionable affair.
Claridge’s has spent 150 years perfecting the art of Afternoon Tea and honing one of London’s most extensive lists of blended teas. The Art Deco interiors and delicate china are second to none. Throughout the year, there are seasonal additions, and the Christmas menu is a real highlight.
rosewoodhotels.com
the-berkeley.co.uk
claridges.co.uk
Afternoon Tea at sea:
THE WINTERGARDEN, VIKING OCEAN SHIPS Outside of London, our favourite destination for a spoiling Afternoon Tea is onboard one of Viking’s ocean ships. A beautifully light and airy space, the Wintergarden is a serene spot in which Viking guests can enjoy a complimentary Afternoon Tea, whilst cruising the high seas. The Scandinavian design ethos celebrates the Nordic landscape, with elegant wooden trees branching out across the ceiling. And to complete the experience, the daily tea service is accompanied by a trio playing classical music. You’ll find a mix of delicious sandwiches, cakes, and scones, but the highlight is the extensive range of delicious teas from around the world, including Chinese Oolong, Bombay Chai and Lapsang Souchong. Daily 16.00 – 17.00. Free of charge
TEA TASTING
BIG VIEWS
COCKTAILS
HEALTHY
SEASONAL
A Fortnum & Mason private tea-tasting session is bound to please even the most serious tea drinkers, with expert tips on serving and tasting and fun facts on the history of tea. Meanwhile, you are served with finger sandwiches, Brittany Battenberg and Bakewell tarts. Afternoon Tea is also served in the Tea Salon.
On the 35th floor of London’s tallest building, The Shard, is the Ting restaurant at Shangri-La. It offers guests a fantastical ‘tea in the clouds’ with classic English delicacies served alongside Asian treats, such as mango rice paper rolls with smoked duck and beetroot-cured salmon on dark rye.
Wyld Tea at Mondrian’s Dandelyan bar feels playful before you’ve even enjoyed one of Ryan Chetiyawardana’s infamous cocktails. Plump, pink sofas help to set a decadent, 1970s vibe – it’s the perfect setting for indulging in a treat like the wonderful Blackcurrent and Verbena Battenberg Cake with a cocktail.
Brown Hotel’s ‘Tea-Tox’ offers a healthy take on what is traditionally a fairly calorific affair. Low-carb savouries including beetroot crepes filled with hummus along with miso-infused salmon parcels, complement lighter sweets including gluten-free raspberry brownies. Everything is delicious, yet surprisingly healthy.
Don’t be deceived by a slightly dreary entrance on one of London’s busiest thoroughfares, The Langham’s Palm Court is a haven of serenity. Serving afternoon tea to the cream of London society since 1865, today's SeasonaliTea, focuses on using the very best ingredients at absolutely the right time of year.
fortnumandmason.com
ting-shangri-la.com
morganshotelgroup.com
roccofortehotels.com
langhamhotels.com
AUT UM N/ WINTER 2018 | VIKINGCRUISES.CO.UK
PHOTOS: © ED REEVE/ERIC LAIGNEL
vikingcruises.co.uk
43
Viking Orion:
STAR OF THE SEAS
Journalist Louise Robinson joins the maiden voyage and reports back on the best features of Viking’s newest ocean ship
44
VIKINGCRUISES.CO.UK | AUT UM N/ WINTER 2018
C
T R AV E L
ruising can take you pretty much anywhere in the world these days, but so far that’s your limit. Want to go further and you’ll need to join that select band who have looked down on our beautiful planet from space. It’s an exclusive club with just 536 members, but as I settled into my auditorium seat on Viking Orion’s inaugural cruise, no fewer than 14 of them were on stage in font of me. Before we could share their insights into infinity and beyond, a mobile ringtone broke the spell. I wasn’t the only one who tutted – but irritation turned to awe when the caller was revealed to be very long-distance indeed. Put on loudspeaker from the International Space Station, some 250 miles above the earth, he congratulated his colleague and Viking Orion’s celebrated godmother – the distinguished and brilliant NASA astronaut, Dr. Anna Fisher – and delighted the rest of us by revealing that he’d been watching from above as we sailed into Monte Carlo that afternoon. That was just the curtain-raiser for a riveting Q&A,
with Dr. Fisher and her NASA colleagues, sharing their interplanetary perspective on subjects ranging from weightlessness (the joy of putting on trousers two legs at a time) to world peace (we need to forget about national boundaries and start thinking about one planet). As after dinner entertainment goes, it was absolutely out of this world. Once NASA’s oldest active astronaut, the charming and very down-to-earth Dr. Fisher had been celebrating her retirement with a Viking river cruise when this new nautical chapter in her extraordinary life began. She’d got chatting about her stellar career, the stars had aligned and the decision was made that Viking’s fifth ocean ship, all 47,800 tonnes of it, would be named after the prominent constellation and in honour of Dr. Fisher’s work on NASA’s Orion exploration project. “The whole experience has been a complete joy,” she told me. But that’s what a Viking cruise is – a joy. And Viking Orion is no exception. Newcomers to this rapidly expanding fleet will be dazzled, and returning guests will feel right at
AUT UM N/ WINTER 2018 | VIKINGCRUISES.CO.UK
45
home as all of Viking’s stunningly designed ships are almost identical. As Viking Chairman Torstein Hagen once told me: “Why would we want to change something which is perfect already?” He has a point, and Viking Orion features everything we have come to know and love on these wonderful ocean ships. You’ll find the same elegant Scandi design and the same exceptional cuisine in the same exquisite restaurants. You’ll enjoy the same immaculate service and the same exquisitely designed LivNordic spa, complete with its unique Snow Grotto. And there’s the same blissful infinity pool (as near as I’ll ever get to the boundless vistas of space). And, yes, it is all still free to use. But Viking Orion is just a little different, thanks to
On the maiden voyage itself, the highlight was Viking Orion’s spectacular christening in the shadow of Livorno’s historic Fortezza Vecchia (even this was appropriate, as it’s where students of Galileo, the father of astronomy, conducted experiments to test the great man’s theories). Viking naming ceremonies are always special, and this time they had brought legendary British explorer Sir Ranulph Fiennes on board to narrate a hi-tech show with a stunning firework display. My personal highlight was the arrival of an ‘astronaut’ wearing a jet pack who ‘flew’ along side the ship (don’t ask me how they did that). The party carried on late into the night at Orion’s Torshavn nightclub, but next morning I was
Viking Orion features everything we have come to know and love on these wonderful ocean ships a number of unique features that reflect her special theme. The most spectacular is The Explorer’s Dome, a planetarium-like theatre where guests can watch panoramic films about space missions (it proved a massive hit with my fellow passengers, and not just those wearing genuine NASA T-shirts). Elsewhere on the ship there are fabulous photographs from the heyday of the Apollo programme, including some taken by the astronauts themselves. And because not even Viking can promise space travellers on every sailing, they have employed a resident astronomer, Howard Parkin of the Royal Astronomical Society, to lead lectures and stargazing sessions during the ship’s maiden season. 46
up with the sun and ready for the first tender into Portofino. This beautiful little harbour town is in my top ten of perfect places, and I had a wonderful time windowshopping (Portofino prices pretty much rule out actual purchasing). But it’s a testament to the appeal of the ship and her fabulous crew that I hopped aboard the return boat with hardly a backward glance. Livorno is also known as the gateway to Tuscany – much loved by Brits and even the original Viking explorers. On this trip I got no further than the beautiful city of Pisa, on one of the included tours. But a cappuccino in the shadow of the leaning tower? Yes please. After a day’s excursion I’m usually ready for a spot of ‘RnR’ in
VIKINGCRUISES.CO.UK | AUT UM N/ WINTER 2018
my stateroom, and on a Viking ship that’s exactly what you get. It’s the thoughtful details I love – like the heated bathroom floors. The other ports on my leg of the voyage were all spectacular (Marseille, Monte Carlo and Barcelona, no less) but for me you can’t beat a Viking sea day. This was my third Viking cruise, and I feel so at home now that I’ve developed my own little routine. As the sun peeps over the horizon I’ll be on my balcony with a coffee I’ve made myself (assuming it hasn’t been too heavy a night at Torshavn). Breakfast is always al fresco (weather permitting) on the Aquavit Terrace. Then it’s time for my personal exercise programme consisting of a stroll round the decks and some gentle splashing in the pool, until it’s time for the quiz or a particularly fascinating lecture. Lunch takes me to the World Café for their sensational salad bar, and the afternoon brings a visit to the spa, followed by a quick pitstop at Mamsen’s deli for a teatime treat. If you’re feeling indulgent there’s always the Wintergarden for a full afternoon tea – but don’t spoil your appetite for dinner, because the highlight of any Viking cruise is surely the cuisine. Even the room service is exceptional, but my standout favourite is Manfredi’s, which must surely be the finest Italian restaurant at sea. As I sauntered out of the restaurant on my final evening, I bumped into Dr. Fisher. Her next ambition, she told me, is to cruise to Australia. “Well, I’ve seen it from space,” she said, “and now I want to try it at sea level”. Viking Orion had clearly left her starstruck. And she isn’t the only one.
Clockwise, from top left: Viking Orion; Louise in Pisa during a shore excursion; Dr. Anna Fisher and her NASA colleagues answer questions; the new planetarium; afternoon tea is served daily; guests immerse themselves in astronomy; delicious seafood at Manfredi's
T R AV E L
SHIP FACTS * The ship has a gross tonnage of 47,800 tons, with 465 cabins to accommodate a total of 930 guests * Viking Orion was christened on 14 June 2018 in Livorno, Italy * Dr. Anna Fisher (the former NASA Astronaut) is serving as godmother * The ship is the fifth of eight ocean cruise ships currently planned for the Viking fleet * Viking Orion will sail itineraries in the Mediterranean, Asia, Australia and Alaska * New features will include The Explorers’ Dome (a planetarium-like theatre on Deck 8), an “Explorations in Space” art and interiors collection and a Viking Resident Astronomer
SPACE RACER The astronaut Dr. Anna Fisher discusses her career highs with journalist Frances Marcellin, and the moment she became a Viking godmother
F
rom being chosen as one of NASA’s first six female astronauts in 1978 to becoming godmother to Viking Orion in 2018, over four trailblazing decades, Anna Fisher has made waves in space, and now she is taking the seas by storm. Despite having her feet firmly on the ground, Anna has nurtured quite a habit for smashing glass ceilings over the years. She specialised in emergency medicine before becoming an astronaut and was responsible for dealing with engine failures on the nervewracking eight-and-a-half-minute journey to orbit on the Discovery flight in 1984. Awarded NASA’s Exceptional Service Medal, she has had a phenomenal 39-year career at NASA, which included becoming the first mother in space and crucial work on the International Space Station and the Orion programme, which will take astronauts to Mars. Last year she retired from NASA and a serendipitous celebratory river cruise with Viking triggered a chain of events that led to what Anna describes as “one of the most surreal experiences of my life” – becoming godmother to new ocean ship, Viking Orion. How did you become godmother of Viking Orion?
Well, it’s a funny story. About a year and a half ago, I had a reunion with my high school friends. We had so much fun, so we said let’s plan something else. One of my friends really wanted to go on a cruise, and one of my other friends in that group is a travel agent, and so she arranged a Viking cruise from Amsterdam to Basel, the Viking Rhine Getaway itinerary. 48
We had a wonderful time on the cruise. Along the way my friends held a retirement party, so midway Viking found out that I was an astronaut. Before that there was no difference in the way I was treated, and everybody treated us so nicely. The Cruise Director on the river cruise, Nick Hale, had taken a picture of himself with me and he posted it on Facebook. After the cruise, my friend Sara called me and said, “Viking would like to talk to you”. They arranged a telephone call with Viking’s Karine Hagen who said, “We’d like you to be the godmother of our next cruise ship”. It really is one of the most surreal experiences of my life. It’s an incredible honour and quite unexpected.
VIKINGCRUISES.CO.UK | AUT UM N/ WINTER 2018
What happened next?
The cruise was 18 July to 29 July 2017, and they wanted me to be there in September for the float-out ceremony, so I thought, okay, I can handle that. But they didn’t explain the process, I thought that was it! And then they said, well, we haven’t named the ship yet, and would I have any ideas, so we started brainstorming. How did you go about choosing the name?
Viking wanted to have a space theme and were talking about planets, stars and constellations. I said, “Wait a minute, Orion is a constellation, very important in navigation pointing to the North Star, and my last job at NASA has been working on the Orion
PROFILE
Left: Anna Fisher with Viking Chairman Torstein Hagen Below: Anna with a model of the Viking Orion
AUT UM N/ WINTER 2018 | VIKINGCRUISES.CO.UK
49
capsule for the last seven or eight years.” So, we decided to go with Orion. The next thing, I’m going on the shakedown cruise for the previous ship, the Viking Sun, and we arrive in Port Ancona and there’s this big beautiful ship that says Viking Orion. It’s amazing, a real experience. What had been your experience of cruises before the river cruise?
I went on a cruise a long time ago with my two daughters. It was one of those big cruises where you have the formal dinner night, and honestly did not enjoy it. They had all these programmes for the girls to do, but I really didn’t want to be away from them, I wanted to spend time with them. I’d always read about Viking’s river cruises and could tell that was going to be different. What did you enjoy the most about your Rhine Getaway river cruise?
The most pleasant surprise for me was Basel. I knew that a place called Basel existed, but that’s all I knew, so I took two extra days at the end of the cruise and really enjoyed that. I loved the element of surprise. Just by pure chance we were there on 1 August [Swiss National Day], which is the equivalent to 4 of July in the United States, so there were huge fireworks – everything about the whole trip was pleasant surprise. You originally trained to be a doctor at UCLA and were famously one of the first six women to become astronauts for NASA. When did you know you wanted to be an astronaut?
Well, when I was a little girl, there weren’t any astronauts, it didn’t exist. At the particular time that I’m talking about, my father was in the military and we were stationed at Fort Campbell, Kentucky. I was 12 years old, 7th grade, and I remember we had PE as our first class. It was 50
Alan Shepard’s first sub-orbital launch and the teacher had a little transistor radio and we all crowded around her listening to him talk to mission control. That’s when I said, “I want do that”. Certainly, a female astronaut wasn’t remotely a possibility at that time. But I wanted to do it. In 1984 on board Discovery you famously became “the first mother in space” when your daughter was nine months old. Can you describe what happened in those crucial first minutes after lift-off?
If anyone says it’s not scary then they are lying to you, but you have to kind of make your peace with what’s going to happen. When they close the hatch, when the pod gets inside a minute and then inside 30 seconds, you don’t know what’s going to happen in the next eight-and-ahalf minutes. We’re trained for an engine fail at lift-off. I was the Flight Engineer, so if we lost an
VIKINGCRUISES.CO.UK | AUT UM N/ WINTER 2018
engine at two minutes my job was to decide what kind of an abort we were going to do and make sure we were doing the right procedures. All I can remember is looking at altitude, air speed, main engines, altitude, air speed, main engines – I was just watching those main engine lights like crazy, I did not want to see one of them go red, feel a sudden loss of thrust or anything like that. I was doing my job the whole way because I wanted to come back to my daughter. You spent 192 hours in space overall, but what do the first moments in space feel like?
You know, your first moments in space are not always your best. You are at 3 Gs for last two minutes or so and you lie on your back; it is quite uncomfortable. But then the engines shut off and ‘boof ’, you’re weightless. I mean, that fast; I could feel the blood rushing about. I was the Flight Engineer, so I was taking us through the procedures and Joe
Clockwise, from above: Anna becomes Viking Orion’s official godmother; the Orion constellation
PROFILE
Allen came over to take my helmet, my boots, he’s bascially undressing me! But within 30 seconds I’m going, “Uh oh, I’m going to be one of the ones who doesn’t feel good.” I was extremely thankful I ate nothing for breakfast, and I didn’t drink anything, so I didn’t throw up, because if you think throwing up is bad here on the ground, it’s really bad when you’re weightless. Do you think we’re in the middle of a new space race?
I think there might be a little bit of a race, but perhaps the United States does not realise they’re in a race yet. I think we did realise it before and I think that’s why Apollo was so successful, because there was that commitment and a strong reason for that commitment was militarily being able to protect our country. There is no doubt in my mind the Chinese are going to build a base on the moon. There’s no new technology, it’s just a matter of money and they will do that. I am really rooting for the Chinese. I’m hoping that if they are successful the American people will wake up and realise that the race is back on – I’m willing to use whatever it takes in the Machiavellian sense to wake people up – space and going into space is important. If the Chinese
“I was watching those main engine lights like crazy, I did not want to see one of them go red, feel a sudden loss of thrust or anything like that” are able to land somebody on the moon and have that strategic and military advantage, then I think the American public will wake up. How do you feel about space tourism?
I think it’s great, I want to go! At the build ceremony for the new ship, Viking Orion, I challenged Mr Hagen to build the first cruise ship for space – and I would name it Viking Discovery. I’m a strong advocate of space tourism. I seriously believe if more people had the opportunity to go into space and see the earth from that vantage point, you would definitely stop thinking of yourself as being from this country or that country, and slowly start feeling like you’re from this planet. And that’s got to be better for everyone.
AUT UM N/ WINTER 2018 | VIKINGCRUISES.CO.UK
51
Discovering THE DANUBE Garden designer Paul Hervey-Brookes takes his maiden voyage along the Danube River, and finds a wealth of history and architecture awaits
52
VIKINGCRUISES.CO.UK | SUM MER 2018
T R AV E L
I
have always been a keen sailor and I love water so when I had the opportunity to experience a river cruise with Viking, I wondered if being on the river would be anything like being on a small boat bobbing on the ocean. The route I had chosen was Nuremberg to Budapest, a stretch of a river I had longed to experience since childhood. The Danube is steeped in history and cuts across Europe to the magical Black Sea. History is etched along its banks, from the Romans cultivating wine alongside the river to the Hapsburgs, Barons, Knights and everything in between. It is, in fact, Europe’s second longest river at over 1,785 miles and takes in four
capital cities (of which two were on my itinerary). In Nuremberg we found our boat. I hadn’t been on a Viking Longship before and I was in for a treat. The boats are incredibly elegant, laid out with simple Scandinavian influences and comfortable furniture – it really was like a luxury hotel. Our first port of call was Nuremberg, which perhaps has the most troubled history of the many towns we stopped in. Because of its great transport links and open spaces, it was transformed from a never-invaded fortified town to a parade ground for National Socialism. The fortified town still exists, although 90 percent had to
be rebuilt after allied bombings, but it is a charming town with a welcoming feel and a surprising ancient history that was almost wiped out in the 20th century. Overnight, the boat slowly glides down the Danube, with dinner on the terrace allowing the landscape to softly roll past. The next morning we were in Regensburg. This is a real river town – what I loved was seeing people on the river, rowing, sailing and enjoying the water, and I was excited to explore. The town is a rich source of architecture, from the restrained high pitched roofs of traditional Bavaria to the exuberant baroque buildings. A large Gothic cathedral, St Peters, which was first worked
SUM MER 2018 | VIKINGCRUISES.CO.UK
53
on in 700AD dominates the town. Its stained glass windows are from the 14th century and, like in Nuremberg, these were removed well before 1939 by those already worried about what was coming next. Amongst the town’s cobbled and narrow streets, some of the most charming early market buildings can be found. For me, the town breathed lightly; here you could sit and watch the world go by without too many cares. Back on the river, we saw many grand houses, castles and fortifications. This is prime territory of both the Holy Roman Empire and the Hapsburg Empire. In 800AD, Pope Leo crowned Charlemagne the first Holy Roman Emperor, and although
this was nearly 300 years after the fall of the Roman Empire, Charlemagne represented a revival which saw many multi-ethnic territories untied. This Empire later elected its Emperors and with the establishment of the Hapsburg Empire in 1273, many heads of the Hapsburg Kingdom were also elected Emperors. This vast and complicated relationship of overlapping empires can be seen in the landscape and most importantly the architecture – its most obvious outpouring of competitiveness was to come later on the journey. Perhaps the most picturesque part of the river journey is therefore through the Wachau Valley. The Danube is wide and the two days
History is etched along the Danube’s banks, from the Romans to the Hapsburgs, Barons, Knights and everything inbetween 54
VIKINGCRUISES.CO.UK | SUM MER 2018
are spent blissfully watching this epic scenery play out. Combined with the glorious sunsets it really was very special. Our last stop before the two great capitals on the trip was Passau, another town that had successfully seen off invaders throughout its trading port history. Remarkably, not one bomb landed on Passau during the Second World War and it is a remarkably ancientfeeling town, with narrow streets and vibrant artists’ studios. From here, Austria is a short walk and Bavaria drifts away from you. The town was built by merchants and ruled by priests. Its heyday, at least architecturally, seems to have been in the baroque period. Passau was an important
T R AV E L trading town for white gold, and salt was brought down from the mountains to be traded further inland. It was a powerful monopoly for the town’s merchants, which made the town very rich as salt was banned from being imported until 1707. The river took us on from Germany to Austria. Music and Austria go hand in hand and Vienna seems to ring to the music of Mozart. I’ve always linked Vienna to the architectural work of Friedensreich Hundertwasser and the famous golden painting by Klimt of Adele Bloch-Bauer. On our guided tour, we saw the great landmarks and, as we quietly walked through the streets, it felt like Vienna held dear its heritage,
acknowledged its past and looked firmly to the future. Perhaps the most memorable part of my time was walking the canal in the centre of the city and seeing community gardens, the Tel Aviv beach bar and the work of various sculptors on display. It has a real energy which I didn’t anticipate. Each day on board is rather unique. There are always included excursions as well as extra ones you can pay for. This ranged from wine tasting to seeing the Jewish highlights of one city. You can also explore on your own. I did a mixture of all three and sometimes found myself walking over 10 miles in a day. One last overnight sail and we arrived in Budapest. The city is a jewel, but it has a mystery and what
can only be described as an “eastern promise”, which felt tangible in Hungary, whereas Austria had felt more European. The main thing that struck me was the opulent architecture complete with intricate paintwork on the buildings, windows and woodwork. The journey from Nuremberg to Budapest was wonderful, and my senses seemed to be heightened along the way. Perhaps it is similar to the cultural exchange that occurs down a long and naturally-winding waterway, which allows ideas to gently sail down the river without a passport. An eight-day Romantic Danube cruise starts from £1,595pp. vikingcruises.co.uk
Clockwise, from facing page: The streets of Passau; Paul Hervey-Brookes; an artist’s chair; magical Budapest; the fortified town of Nuremberg
SUM MER 2018 | VIKINGCRUISES.CO.UK
55
Anthony Mauboussin: The culinary architect Frances Marcellin meets Anthony Mauboussin, Culinary Director at Viking, during the ‘shakedown cruise’ of Viking Orion
Above: Anthony Mauboussin; the chef helps Viking Chairman Torstein Hagen to create his favourite dish, poached salmon with boiled potatoes and pickled cucumber
56
A
nthony Mauboussin is the Culinary Director at Viking. Now overseeing river operations as well as managing the fast-growing ocean fleet, Mauboussin’s packed schedule is focused around menu engineering, ensuring that staff and suppliers worldwide are invested in Viking’s high-level food philosophy, and joining the maiden voyages of new ships to verify all the restaurants are running smoothly. As a successful long-distance runner with a passion for travel, Mauboussin’s inherent stoicism and drive for excellence sees him shape menus across 242 destinations at the highest level. This is no mean feat when every single restaurant dish on each identical ship is of the same first-class standard, and
VIKINGCRUISES.CO.UK AUT UM N/ WINTER 2018
consistent with the last, no matter where it is in the world. Where did you start your career journey and how did you become Culinary Director of Viking?
I started working on a cruise vessel in 2004. It was a kind of a chef de partie, and I had a station in one of the speciality restaurants where Michel Roux was officially in charge. That was my first company. Then I made my way up to the next level, sous chef and chef de cuisine, and moved to launch another company, which was Azamara Cruises, back in 2007.
I stayed on at my first position as Executive Chef for about three years, and then moved as a chef to Oceania Cruises. I then had an opportunity to be the Head Chef of ‘The World Residence at Sea,’ which, as you know, is an exclusive private yacht with more than one hundred residents. I did that for five months and then moved to Viking to start work on the ocean ships, nearly five years ago now. Do you work only on the ocean side or river too?
I actually started on river last year. We are working to align both
The challenge is always the logistics. But we build up relationships with our suppliers
S TA F F P R O F I L E divisions, even though we know that both products are different, and so we did this from March last year. I actually hired a Senior Executive Chef who is now leading the culinary operation for the river. What are the aspects of the river operation that you have a direct impact on?
Now we have over 65 river ships, I oversee whatever is related to culinary development, menu layout and content.
What are the major differences between ocean and river food operations?
Our river ships are much smaller, the kitchens are much smaller, and the teams are much smaller. I think the ocean ships are equivalent to 12 river ships on top of each other, so seven different restaurants and 100 kitchen staff. But it gives you a bit more flexibility to diversify menus.
PHOTOS: © ISTOCK
What are the challenges of creating high-level cuisine for diners at sea?
The challenge is always the logistics. But we build up a relationship with the same suppliers and we work with seasons, so we know the products we get unless bad weather happens or something like that. On a cruise vessel, of course, the itineraries change for the whole season, you end up in Europe, and a few months later you’re in the US or you go to Australia, or end up in Vietnam. So this is the most challenging part, the logistics, to be able to keep your product quality to the top.
Wikipedia gives you a history of a place, and this is helping a lot too. It’s a 12-month job now we have 242 destinations.
Your menus reflect the itinerary destinations; how did that idea come about?
So you’re a culinary architect?
When we started, Viking Star had the 49-day cruise and the idea was to have 49 different menus – but of course I said that’s not possible, you can’t be working like this. You need to have stability in your offering, and then be able to identify the destination. Now we create a menu based on a destination and include that as a recommendation each day. There were 49 destinations for 2015, so of course a lot of research went into the menus. You can’t go to every place, but the good thing now with the internet, TripAdvisor, Michelin guides, restaurant websites, all those things are valuable resources for me.
How do you maintain control over such a huge project?
I would compare it to an architect. I think in the same way maybe the first thing an architect starts with is history, followed by the plan where you start drawing on paper, and then when the drawing is on the paper you go more into details, then finally get the product out. Menu engineering – that’s exactly what it is. How do you ensure the best quality of food?
We have a bidding programme where we look at what we have and send suppliers a list and then they come up with a selection. The idea on food specification is to make them understand our philosophy. Why it’s important to have a New York strip steak, prime level, in the restaurant. Why it is important to have the same thing all the time, consistency, because 55-60% of our guests are repeaters, and we have guests who travel two to three times a year. Some say, “Oh wow, the New York steak is great,
I’m going to have that again!” So, expectations are set and need to be maintained by us. Do you think the high standard of cuisine makes the cruise ship a destination in itself for your guests?
Above: Anthony loves to travel the world as part of his role; shopping for spices in local food markets
I think there are three things. The ship’s comfort, the whole ambiance of it, this is for me the top priority. The standard of the crew is also hugely important. And I’m not saying this because I’m in charge, I truly believe that in terms of the food we serve – and I’ve worked with different companies, so I know what is out there – that we’ve brought it to the next level.
AUT UM N/ WINTER 2018 | VIKINGCRUISES.CO.UK
57
Adventure to ASIA
A melting pot of cultures and cuisines, Asia is a destination packed with delicious street food, surprising spices and vibrant flavours
58
VIKINGCRUISES.CO.UK | AUT UM N 2018
FOOD
Sweet and sour pork
FOR THE MARINADE: 1 tsp soy sauce ½ tsp cornflour 1 tsp Chinese rice wine
This Chinese favourite is lighter than deep-fried Chinese dishes.
Oil for frying 1 lb (450g) pork loin, cubed 1 clove garlic, finely chopped 1 tsp fresh ginger, grated 1 red bell pepper, deseeded and chopped 1 green bell pepper, deseeded and chopped 1 bunch chopped spring onions, bulb only 3 ½ oz (100g) fresh or tinned pineapple, chopped 1 tbsp tomato purée 1 tbsp plum sauce 1 tbsp Worcestershire sauce 1 tbsp Chinese rice wine vinegar 1 tbsp oyster sauce 1 tbsp honey 2 tbsp pineapple juice or water
PHOTOS: © ISTOCK
SERVES 4
1 Mix together the marinade ingredients and stir in the pork. Allow to marinate for about half an hour, mixing occasionally. 2 Heat the oil in a large, heavy-based frying pan and fry the pork until golden brown, then remove it and set aside. 3 Add the garlic and ginger to the pan and fry briefly. Add the peppers and spring onions and cook until softened, then add the pineapple pieces and finally the pork. 4 In a bowl, mix together the tomato purée, plum sauce, Worcestershire sauce, rice wine vinegar, oyster sauce, honey and pineapple juice, then pour into the pan. Cook just until the sauce thickens then serve immediately with rice or noodles.
Facing page: Many people use boats to transport their goods to floating markets in Asia
AUT UM N/ WINTER 2018 | VIKINGCRUISES.CO.UK
59
“Originating in Northern Vietnam in the early 20th century, this beef broth is considered a national dish”
60
VIKINGCRUISES.CO.UK | AUT UM N 2018
FOOD
Beef ph Using ready-made beef stock makes this aromatic broth quick to make. SERVES 4 3 pints (1.4 liters) veal or beef stock 1 onion, chopped 2 whole star anise ½ cinnamon stick 1 clove ½ tsp whole peppercorns 1 thick slice fresh ginger 2 tsp sugar 1 tsp salt 1 tsp fish sauce 1 pack flat rice noodles 9 oz (250g) sirloin steak TO GARNISH: Sriracha (Vietnamese hot chilli sauce) Hoisin sauce 1 onion, thinly sliced Fresh coriander Bean sprouts Sweet Thai basil leaves Thinly sliced spring onions Limes, quartered
1 Make the aromatic broth by heating the stock in a saucepan and adding in the onion, star anise, cinnamon stick, clove, peppercorns, ginger, sugar, salt and fish sauce. Allow to simmer for 30 minutes, then strain and return to the pan, discarding the spices. 2 Meanwhile, cook the rice noodles until soft, according to the instructions on the packet. 3 Slice the steak as thinly as possible, and then place some noodles into each bowl. Top each one with a few raw beef slices. 4 Ladle the boiling broth over the beef and noodles and serve with the garnishes and sauces.
Vietnamese summer rolls An easy way to recreate Vietnamese fast food in your own home. MAKES 8 ROLLS 1 pack pad Thai rice noodles 8 rice paper wrappers 24 medium shrimp, cooked 1 bunch mint 1 bunch coriander 2 or 3 Thai basil stems 1 carrot, peeled and sliced into fine matchsticks ½ cucumber, deseeded and sliced into fine matchsticks Shredded lettuce 4 tbsp salted peanuts, chopped FOR THE DIPPING SAUCE: 1 tbsp sugar Juice of 1 lime 1 tbsp fish sauce 1 garlic clove, crushed 1 small red chilli, deseeded and finely chopped
1 Cook the rice noodles according to the pack instructions, drain and reserve. Assemble all the filling ingredients and pick the herb leaves from the stalks. Make sure you have a bowl of cold water handy for the rice paper wrappers. 2 To assemble the rolls, soak each rice paper wrapper until it’s pliable, then spread flat onto a chopping board. Arrange three shrimp into the centre, then layer up with the mint, coriander, carrot, cucumber and lettuce. Add a small handful of the rice noodles, then finally scatter over some of the chopped peanuts. 3 Fold the bottom of the roll up over the ingredients, flap in the sides and then roll up into a neat parcel. 4 To make the dipping sauce, whisk all the ingredients together until the sugar has dissolved. Serve with the summer rolls. AUT UM N/ WINTER 2018 | VIKINGCRUISES.CO.UK
61
“Cambodian curries are much less fiery and more aromatic than typical Thai versions”
62
VIKINGCRUISES.CO.UK | AUT UM N 2018
FOOD
Khmer red chicken curry The red chicken curry typical to Cambodia is much less fiery and more aromatic than its Thai counterparts. SERVES 4 1 1 2 2 6 1 1 2 1
lemongrass stalk, chopped tbsp turmeric tbsp fresh ginger, grated kaffir lime leaves cloves of garlic, chopped red chilli, deseeded and chopped shallot, peeled and chopped tbsp oil lb (450g) chicken, either breast, leg or thigh meat 2 tbsp sugar 1 tbsp fish sauce 2 sweet potatoes, peeled and chopped 1 carrot, chopped 1 potato, chopped 4 star anise 7 oz (200g) tinned coconut milk pinch salt 1 lime 1 To make the aromatic paste, pound the lemongrass, turmeric, ginger, lime leaves, garlic, chilli and shallot together to make a smooth paste. 2 Heat the oil in a heavy-based saucepan or wok and fry the curry paste for 1 to 2 minutes. Add the chicken, then the sugar and fish sauce. fry until the chicken is opaque, and then add the vegetables. 3 Next, pour over the coconut milk, and add a pinch of salt, the star anise and a splash of water. Simmer until the chicken is cooked through and the vegetables are tender. Before serving, add a squeeze of lime. Serve with steamed rice.
Peking duck Hailing from Beijing, this crisp, aromatic roast duck is surprisingly easy to make. SERVES 4 2 ½ lb (1.2kg) duck Sea salt and black pepper Five spice powder TO SERVE: Chinese pancakes, steamed Plum sauce cucumber, cut into sticks Spring onions, sliced lengthways
The Kitchen Table
From kitchens around the world, join Karine Hagen on her journeys as she explores dishes that represent some of our world’s most interesting destinations. From our kitchen tables to yours, we invite you to broaden your culinary horizons and cultural insights, and learn how simple and fun it is to recreate foreign flavors at home.
THE KITCHEN TABLE
A CULINARY JOURNEY AROUND THE WORLD
The
Kitchen Table
Front cover: “Traveling Tomatoes” photographed by Karine in the Umbrian Countryside
COOKERY AND TRAVEL €20
1 Preheat the oven to 325°F (160°C). Place the duck on a wire rack in the sink and pour over a kettle of boiling water, then rub the duck all over, inside and out, with sea salt. Sprinkle pepper and five spice powder geneously all over the duck. 2 Place the duck on a rack over a roasting tin and roast for two hours, emptying the tray occasionally as it fills with fat. Allow to rest for 10 to 15 minutes before serving. 3 To finish, shred the duck and serve with steamed chinese pancakes, the spring onions, cucumber and some plum or hoisin sauce.
2nd Edition
A CULINARY JOURNEY AROUND THE WORLD
Join Karine Hagen as she explores dishes that represent some of the world’s most interesting destinations. All recipes included here are featured in The Kitchen Table, available to purchase on board Viking ships.
AUT UM N/ WINTER 2018 | VIKINGCRUISES.CO.UK
63
Pool with a view
VIKING STAR CRUISE SHIP, DEPARTING VENICE The infinity pools on board each of the Viking ocean ships are the first of their kind at sea. Featuring a glass wall overlooking the wake of the ship, swimmers are able to admire the ever-changing seascape beyond, and are in the enviable position of being able to swim in the heart of a new destination every day. Cantilevered off the stern, the infinity pool offers matchless views and gives swimmers the sensation of floating above the ocean below. vikingcruises.co.uk 64
VIKINGCRUISES.CO.UK | AUT UM N/ WINTER 2018
T R AV E L
DIVE IN Boasting incredible settings and spectacular scenery, Kate Finney rounds up five swimming pools that offer a unique experience to swimmers in search of adventure
AUT UM N/ WINTER 2018 | VIKINGCRUISES.CO.UK
65
Geothermal luxury
BLUE LAGOON, ICELAND This other-worldly swimming spot is set within Iceland’s impressive volcanic landscape and features a geothermal seawater pool which is open all year round. The opaque, milky-blue waters gleam against the backdrop of the black volcanic lava fields. Swimmers who visit late at night can bathe under the midnight sun, and may even be lucky enough to glimpse the Northern Lights. bluelagoon.com
66
VIKINGCRUISES.CO.UK | AUT UM N/ WINTER 2018
T R AV E L
Healing waters
GELLÉRT BATHS, BUDAPEST Budapest isn’t just a city of great buildings, it is also home to a wonderful selection of bath houses fed by healing hot springs and enjoyed by many locals and visitors alike. They say that you have not truly experienced Budapest without first ‘taking the waters’ in keeping with the ancient Roman tradition. Located below Gellért Hill is the Gellért Baths, with its majestic domes and thermal waters. It is just one of the many dreamy Art Nouveau spas where you can quite literally immerse yourself in the beautiful architecture. gellertbath.com
AUT UM N/ WINTER 2018 | VIKINGCRUISES.CO.UK
67
Saltwater pool
BONDI BATHS, AUSTRALIA Located at the southern end of Bondi Beach, the home pool of Bondi Icebergs Club has become an international landmark. Formed in 1929, the swimming club was created by local lifeguards keen to maintain their fitness during the colder winter months. With a larger lap pool, a smaller family-friendly pool, and a sauna which is handy for warming up, the setting has something for everyone. The two pools are filled with saltwater, and are open to the public all year round, with lifeguards on duty during opening hours. Due to the pool’s proximity to the sea, swimmers are often able to experience the crashing waves overflowing into their swimming space. A truly dramatic spot with a real sense of Australian heritage. icebergs.com.au
68
VIKINGCRUISES.CO.UK | AUT UM N/ WINTER 2018
T R AV E L
Tranquil beauty
KRKA NATIONAL PARK, CROATIA A magical place of cascading waterfalls and crystalline waters, Krka National Park runs from the Adriatic Sea along the River Krka to Croatia’s picturesque interior. Journey through the dramatic karst landscape of Zadar and into the Šibenik hinterland to see the astonishing Skradinski Buk waterfalls. Take a dip in the refreshing waters and breathe in the tranquillity and beauty of this stunning area, whose remoteness once attracted monks to build monasteries here. Divine. np-krka.hr
You can visit all of these amazing swimming spots with Viking. Visit vikingcruises.co.uk to find out more
AUT UM N/ WINTER 2018 | VIKINGCRUISES.CO.UK
69
VIKING
Book Club If you’re looking for inspiration for your next seasonal read, look no further! Here are some festive favourites to curl up and read with a mug of hot chocolate...
A CHRISTMAS CAROL By Charles Dickens Wordsworth Classics, £2.25
It is hard to think of a novel more intrinsically linked to Christmas, than Charles Dickens’ classic novella, A Christmas Carol. First published by Chapman & Hall in December 1843, it tells the story of the miserly, Ebenezer Scrooge. Scrooge is visited by the ghost of his former business partner, Jacob Marley, who appears to him in chains and says perhaps the most famous words in all of English Literature, “you will be visited by three spirits”. A Christmas Carol is arguably one of the greatest works of all time and is as relevant today as it was in Dickens’ time.
SKY SONG By Abi Elphinstone Simon & Schuster, £5.24
THE HYGGE HOLIDAY
WINTER’S TALE
By Rosie Blake
By Mark Helprin
Little, Brown, £7.99
Mariner Books, £25.48
It’s autumn in Yulethorpe and everyone is gloomy. It’s cold, drizzly and the skies are perma-grey. The last shop on the high street – an adorable little toy shop - has just shut its doors. Everything is going wrong, until Clara Kristensen arrives. Clara can see the potential in the pretty town and sets to work. Things are looking up until Joe returns to find out what is happening with his mother’s shop. Joe is sure Clara is up to no good – surely no one would work this hard for fun? Can a man who answers emails at 3am learn to appreciate the slower, happier, hygge life?
Set in New York at the beginning and the end of the twentieth century, Winter´s Tale tells the magical story of Peter Lake, a turnof-the-century Irish burglar, and Beverly Penn, a young and beautiful heiress. The two meet when Peter is robbing Beverly’s house. Perhaps not the best introduction, but they quickly fall in love, to the romantic backdrop of the lively city. However, Beverly is gravely ill and has little time left, though all is not as it seems... This wonderfully magical and other worldly tale is utterly captivating and perfect for those icy cold winter nights.
THE POLAR BEAR EXPLORERS CLUB
NORDIC STYLE
By Alex Bell
Viking, €25
Faber & Faber, £6.99
From the Northern Lights to Norwegian cuisine, Nordic Style is a celebration of wonderful Scandinavian culture. Learn the art of hygge and the history of Nordic design, make perfect Kanelbullar (cinnamon buns) or get cosy with a cup of Nordic Gløgg.
Join Stella Starflake Pearl and her three fellow explorers as they trek across the snowy icelands and come face-to-face with frost fairies, snow queens, outlaw hideouts, unicorns, pygmy dinosaurs and carnivorous cabbages.
VIKINGCRUISES.CO.UK | AUTUMN/ WINTER 2018
By Viking Cruises
From the natural beauty of Scandinavia to its distinctive traditions, rich cultural heritage, stunning architecture, ground-breaking design
and of course delicious fresh food, Karine Hagen invites you to join us on a tour of Norway, Sweden, Denmark and Finland as we discover the best of this fascinating part of the world.
Karine Hagen, Senior Vice President, Viking, wearing a Dale of Norway sweater, on location at a Norwegian mountain farm near Flåm.
vikingcruises.com
TRAVEL AND LIFESTYLE €25 ISBN-13: 978-1-909968-19-6
Cover image:
The Living Room on board Viking ocean ships
A C E L E B R AT I O N O F S C A N D I N A V I A N L I F E
70
When Stella and three other junior explorers get separated from their expedition, they are forced to cross the frozen wilderness alone. Journey with them to see if Stella and her friends live to tell the tale.
Nordic Style
In the snowy kingdom of Erkenwald, whales glide between icebergs, wolves hunt on the tundra and polar bears roam the glaciers. But the people of this land aren’t so easy to find – because Erkenwald is ruled by an evil Ice Queen and the tribes must stay hidden or risk becoming her prisoners at Winterfang Palace. Join Eska, a girl who breaks free from a cursed music box, and Flint, a boy whose inventions could change the fate of Erkenwald forever, journey to the Never Cliffs
and beyond in search of an ancient, almost forgotten, song with the power to force the Ice Queen back. This is a beautiful story of belonging, even at the very edge of our world.
Nordic Style A C E L E B R AT I O N O F S C A N D I N AV I A N L I F E
BOOK CLUB
SUTUMN 2018 | VIKINGCRUISES.CO.UK
71
72
VIKINGCRUISES.CO.UK | AUT UM N/ WINTER 2018
POSTCARD from
TRO M S Ø Cruise blogger, Marcus Adams, explored Tromsø and tells us about his adventure Into the Midnight Sun
PHOTOS: © ISTOCK
F
ollowing in the footsteps of the Vikings, I recently had the chance to venture into the midnight sun on board the beautiful Viking Sea. Norway has always been at the top of my wish list, with its unique natural beauty and culture. So I knew I would enjoy everything about this trip, but in reality I was even more blown away by the sheer beauty of the landscapes we encountered than I could ever have imagined. Our journey took us from London, to Edinburgh and the Scottish Isles, before heading up to the Arctic Circle and finishing in the land of the fjords. It is the perfect way to see and experience the culture and the beautiful scenery of Norway. This trip is also special due to the opportunity to experience the midnight sun. When you are in the Arctic Circle in the summer months, the first thing you will notice is the distinct lack of darkness. It is worth staying up, even if you’re not normally a night owl. Watching the surreal, yet spectacular moment when the sun literally skims the horizon before coming back up is magical. On our adventure we visited Tromsø in the Arctic Circle. The city is nestled in between stunning arctic landscapes everywhere you look. Viking offers a number of included and optional excursions and with so much to see and do around Tromsø we decided to go on two excursions during our day in the city. Upon arrival in Tromsø, you can’t help but notice the interesting and curious architecture. From the Arctic Cathedral, to the more traditional, pretty wooden buildings. I found it a very tactile city where I just wanted to reach out and touch everything! The included tour with Viking is a great way to get a flavour of the city, and its sights and sounds. Our journey began on the island of Tromsøya (where the ship docks). Here we toured the various historic buildings and districts that make-up Tromsø before heading to the mainland to see the famous Arctic Cathedral. The Cathedral has a distinct and very modern look and its design has been likened to the famous Sydney Opera House in Australia. From here we travelled to the Aurora View Point on the outskirts of the city. This gives dramatic views of the rugged and unique, Norwegian landscape below, and as you can imagine during the winter provides spectacular views of the Northern Lights. The excursion finished with a tour around the University of Tromsø, the world’s most northerly
university. It is an absolutely wonderful introduction to the beautiful and interesting city of Tromsø. Tromsø is also the perfect gateway to get outdoors and experience nature. We could not miss out on the opportunity to visit and go trekking with huskies. Travelling a short distance from the city, you’ll come to the family-run Tromsø Wilderness Centre. Here you will be greeted by many excited Alaskan dogs and pups wanting to take you on an adventure. During the summer months you have the wonderful opportunity to meet the huskies and go trekking with them across picture-perfect glades and fields. Whether you are a dog-lover or not, this is an amazing excursion where guests can take a modest hike with a husky of your choice. Halfway through you will have the chance to enjoy tea and cake with your new furry friends looking out over the city and bay that surrounds it. Along the way you can learn about the breed and the Wilderness Centre itself. The fun does not stop there, if you are visiting in winter, jump in a sleigh and go dog-sledding with teams of the pups through the snow. No visit is complete without having a cuddle with a husky, and a play with the puppies at the centre. They are so adorable, I wanted to take them home with me! A 15-day Into the Midnight Sun cruise starts from £5,040pp. vikingcruises.co.uk
You can follow Marcus on his travels at sparkx.org
Clockwise, from opposite page: the Arctic Cathedral is one of the city's many special landmarks; Marcus loved discovering the epic scenery of northern Norway; huskies were a highlight; Tromsø Bridge links the mainland with the island of Tromsøya
CITY GUIDES Our destinations and shore excursions are at the centre of every Viking cruise. We’re always on the lookout for new experiences, and these travel guides are packed with local tips to inspire your next adventure
Page 76 Hong Kong Beyond the bustling metropolis are mountains and islands to discover
Page 78 Cologne The cultural hub of north-east Germany boasts great art and food
Page 80 Cape Town Mind-boggling topography and a vibrant cultural scene await
Hong Kong There’s more to Hong Kong than dim sum and an iconic skyline, although it’s worth the visit for these alone. Beyond the bustling metropolis are mountains and islands to discover
A
lmost eight million people live in Hong Kong, making it one of the most densely populated places on earth. Although it may seem frenzied and brash on the surface (the neon lights are switched off as rarely as the counterfeit markets cease trading), you don’t have to go far to uncover hidden depths. The buildings alone have stories to tell — gleaming skyscrapers dwarf traditional fishing houses, and colonial mansions rub alongside Taoist temples. Moreover, it’s all surrounded by nature; mountains soar above the commercial district as junk boats putter across the harbour to unspoilt outlying islands. To soak up Hong Kong’s harbour views, head to the promenade in Tsim Sha Tsui and then hop on the Star Ferry to Hong Kong Island. Another atmospheric mode of transport is the ‘DingDing’ tram (affectionately named so by locals), which meanders through Wan Chai, Admiralty, and
Central. From here, it’s a good idea to get shopping done and dusted before settling into Soho’s hip bars. The city has ample modern malls, but the real feast for the senses is Hong Kong’s markets. For a whirlwind tour head to the Mong Kok area — browse Ladies Market for bargains, pop next door to admire fish stalls on Tung Choi Street, and then cross the road for the more fragrant Flower Market. Once you’ve satisfied your urban fix, turn to Hong Kong’s geological treasures. Over 40 per cent of the city is made up of country parks with beaches, mountains, and woodlands. Tai Long Wan is a stunning three kilometre-wide bay popular with surfers, and with over 260 outlying islands, there are several sea kayaking tours from the city itself. For a proper hike, the Lantau trail winds around Lantau Island to deserted beaches and waterfalls. If you don’t have time to leave town, Kowloon Park has 33 acres of outdoor fun.
Don’t miss
•Rent a bike in Tai Po, Hong Kong’s greenest neighbourhood where the streets are brimming with old-world charm. •Take the Star Ferry from Kowloon to Central at dusk for atmospheric views of Hong Kong’s skyline. •Man Mo Temple is one of the city’s most impressive Taoist temples; its incense-filled chamber is always heaving with worshippers, proving the city’s traditional core. 76
VIKINGCRUISES.CO.UK | AUT UM N/ WINTER 2018
Fast Facts Dim sum literally translates as 'dot heart', but the idiomatic equivalent is 'hit the spot'. Hong Kong means Fragment Harbour and the name may relate to the incense factories that used to line the coast of Kowloon.
• Catch the Peak Tram to Victoria
Peak where Sky Terrace and Lion Pavilion both offer amazing views. • Soak up the sights and sounds of Bird Garden, a meeting place for bird collectors, and get a glimpse of surviving Chinese traditions.
Eating & Drinking
Hong Kong draws on influences from all corners of the globe for its weird and wonderful cuisine. From egg tarts to dim sum to braised chicken feet, eating in the city that never sleeps is an adventure of its own. YUM CHA ££
Slap-bang in the middle of Hong Kong Central, yet with a New York vibe, Yum Cha serves some of the city’s most famous dim sum. ‘BBQ piggy buns’ and ‘doggy rolls’ are tongue-in-cheek versions of classic dishes, although the taste is anything but a joke.
T R AV E L
Clockwise, from this image: The Hong Kong skyline; catch of the day; local people practising Tai Chi; dim sum; incense coils at Man Mo Temple
DRAGON KING ££
Local families pile into Dragon King for brunch, to catch up around tables laden with custard buns and dim sum. Dishes are a pleasant mix of innovation and tradition, and everything is cooked to order.
Insider Tips
SUN HING £
PHOTOS: © SHUTTERSTOCK/ALAMY
For those that find decision-making a chore, Sun Hing’s simple premise is heaven: turn up, grab a seat at a communal table, and get stuck into the bamboo basket plonked in front of you. Dim sum is served up 24-7 making this a perfect late-night spot. LUK YU TEA HOUSE ££
Hong Kong’s oldest tea house is worth a peek. Filled with antique furniture and stained glass windows, the atmosphere feels unchanged since the 1930s made tea-drinking a delicate and old-world event.
BREAKFAST LIKE A KING
START THE DAY WITH THE LOCALS
SEAFOOD AT ITS FINEST
Enjoy delicious dim sum dishes at Duen Kee before attempting a hike up Tai Mo Shan mountain. It is a unique venue, with villagers displaying caged birds, while sipping tea.
Watch (or join in) Tai Chi sessions that unfold in the city’s parks before 9am — a morning ritual for most locals — designed to keep the balance betwen yin and yang in the body.
For the city’s best seafood, head a little bit out of town to the waterfront Seafood Street in Sai Kung. As well as restaurants, you can see fishermen bring in their daily catch.
AUT UM N/ WINTER 2018 | VIKINGCRUISES.CO.UK
77
Cologne The cultural hub of Germany’s north-west is home to a spectacular gothic cathedral, an extensive art collection, and a booming foodie scene
T
he first visitors were drawn to Cologne in 50 AD when Colonia was founded as a Roman outpost. Although Roman ruins remain, it’s the city’s gothic cathedral that steals the show, as well as the pretty banks of the meandering Rhine, traditional beer halls, some of Germany’s most renowned chefs, and an ever-evolving shopping scene. Kick-start a tour in the 13thcentury cathedral, which was one of the most ambitious building projects in the Middle Ages, and is today the most visited building in Germany. Climb the southern tower’s 533 steps early in the morning to come face-to-face with the twisted faces of gargoyles and a bird’s eye view of the city. From here, hop between some of the legendary Kölsch pubs and wander the banks of the Rhine before delving into the boutiques and cafés in the modern part of the city. Cologne is home to over 10 art galleries and museums, so there’s
78
no shortage of cultural interest. A must see is the Ludwig, which holds the most comprehensive Pop Art collection in Europe. You could happily spend a day swotting up on everything from sports at the Germany Sports & Olympic Museum to art at Germany’s largest traditional collection at the Wallraf-Richartz Museum. For interactive fun, head to the Dance Museum, Chocolate Museum, and the Carnival Museum of Cologne, where visitors journey through the city’s annual world-famous street party.
Don’t miss
•In the cathedral, look out for Gerhard Richter’s graphic glass window and the golden shrine of the Three Wise Men, a relic that made this one of the Catholic Church’s most prominent pilgrimage sites. •On Thursday evenings, Meat & Eat draws local families to Rudolfplatz for a farmer’s market and street-food fair with covered tables. •Shopping is a big deal in Cologne. Head to Schildergasse for high street stores or Ehrenstrasse for a boutique experience (and fuel up at the Zimmermann bakery on the way). •Cologne’s Belgian Quarter is quickly becoming the city’s art and media hub, paving the way for the best cafés, independent stores, and secret cocktail bars. •The Chocolate Museum is a must for anyone with a sweet tooth. Exhibits demonstrate chocolate’s supply chain in an interactive way,
VIKINGCRUISES.CO.UK | AUT UM N/ WINTER 2018
Fast Facts Cologne’s clock tower is home to Europe’s largest freeswinging bell. Original Eau de Cologne is one of the world’s oldest fragrances, still sold today at 4711 Glockengasse.
and there's a viewing gallery to watch the churning of Lindt.
Eating & Drinking
Cologne’s eclectic mix of eateries means once you’ve had your fill of currywurst, schnitzel and Kölsch, there’s a world of contemporary, many sustainably-minded, drinking dens and dining joints to try. SALON SCHMITZ £££
More of a food empire than a restaurant, this salon, butcher’s shop, deli, and art-nouveau-styled bar serves traditional dishes for every time of day across three historical houses. FEYNSINN ££
For a taste of the city’s more modern food scene, try one of Zülpicher Viertel’s slow food creations made with local, seasonal ingredients.
T R AV E L
Clockwise, from this image: Cologne Cathedral overlooking the Rhine; City Hall clock; Bene Taschen; Café Reichard; Museum Ludwig
BEI OMA KLEINMANN £
This graffiti-covered, humble kitchen on Zülpicher Strasse is a bit of an institution thanks to chef Bei Oma Kleinmann who cooked here right up until her mid-90s. Although she sadly passed away in 2009, the classic pork and veal schnitzel dishes are unchanged.
Insider Tips
HAXENHAUS ££
Slap bang in the heart of touristy Altstadt, this old joint is refreshingly local. If you cannot choose between the 14 varieties of roast pork knuckles, stick with the classic Limburger Haxe, washed down with a local beer.
PHOTOS: © ALAMY
BRAUHAUS FRÜH AM DOM £
There are ample beer halls to choose from, but this one stands out for excellent service and old features including a large cellar and a biergarten for balmy summer nights.
CAFÉ SOCIETY
Cologne’s most sophisticated oldies gather in Café Reichard, indulging in the city’s best coffee and cake. It is family-owned and has been a Cologne institution since the 19th century.
MODERN LOVE
Galerie Bene Taschen is a small art gallery hidden down an alleyway off Moltkestrasse with rotating contemporary exhibitions, representing leading artists in both photography and painting.
THE CHEEK OF IT
Cologne City Hall is Germany’s oldest and the gothic tower is adorned with over 100 statues, one of which is baring his bottom. It is famous for its Renaissance loggia by Wilhelm Vernukken.
AUT UM N/ WINTER 2018 | VIKINGCRUISES.CO.UK
79
Cape Town With its kaleidoscope of vibrant cultures, mind-boggling topography and transformational neighbourhoods, the Mother City is much more than just a gateway to South Africa
C
ape Town’s fragmented history is evident in its myriad architecture and cultures: grand homesteads from the Dutch; wine-making from the French; Georgian mansions from the English; vibrant colours from the Malay that were brought to the city as slaves. Throughout history, people from all over Africa have flocked to the continent’s southern tip to make a new life for themselves, leaving a trail of entrepreneurial spirit that ripples through the city. It’s not only this eclectic mix of people that gives Cape Town an infectious buzz; the geography itself is staggering. The rugged peaks of the Twelve Apostles sweep away from the city into the Indian Ocean, and Table Mountain looms above the urban sprawl. Constantia’s vineyards brush against mountainside townships, and beautiful beaches draws the cityʼs residents toward the sea.
80
Forever evolving, Cape Town’s many neighbourhoods are in a constant state of flux. Responsible tour companies are helping to revive struggling communities like Khayelitsha, offering visitors the chance to witness the positivity seeping out of the once impoverished townships. Increasingly gentrified Woodstock is giving the lively V&A Waterfront a run for its money, although the hotly anticipated Museum of Contemporary Art Africa is drawing the crowds back.
Don’t miss
•Leave at least half a day to explore the Cape Peninsula including icecream at Simon’s Town, penguins at Boulders Bay, and zebra spotting in Cape Point National Park. Drive back along Chapman’s Drive in time for the afternoon sun to turn the city to gold. •District Six Museum is the best way to appreciate Cape Town’s history of racial tension; some say it’s a more intimate and emotional experience than Robben Island. •Once you’ve taken in a birds-eye view from Table Mountain, earn some more epic scenery by hiking to the top of Lion’s Head. •Be inspired by the entrepreneurial spirit of the townships on a Uthando tour. Visit projects like a coding workshop in a shipping container, helping prisoners find purpose through arts and crafts, and social projects aimed at older members of the community.
VIKINGCRUISES.CO.UK | AUT UM N/ WINTER 2018
Fast Facts Cape Town was the first non-European city to gain Blue Flag status. The Cape Floral Kingdom is home to 7,000 plants found nowhere else in the world. Cape Town is one of the world’s youngest cities; in the last census, half of its population was under 25 years old.
Eating & Drinking
It would take months to fully appreciate the many flavours and foodie experiences that Cape Town offers, and that’s before even touching on the world-famous wine. CAPE POINT VINEYARDS £££
Time your visit with the Cape Point Vineyards weekly market where food sellers from the local area offer morsels of deliciousness with views towards Noordhoek Bay. If you miss the market, order a picnic hamper for lunch or dinner instead. THE BLACK SHEEP ££
This gastro-pub-style hang-out has large windows opening out onto cobbled Kloof Street, with views towards the mountains beyond. Wash down lamb burgers and skinny fries with craft ales and organic wines.
T R AV E L Clockwise, from this image: Cape Town and the Twelve Apostles; an African penguin; Sea Point Pools; Table Mountain; Chacma baboons
GROOT CONSTANTIA ££
For a taste of the Cape’s finest wine among Dutch colonial architecture, head to Groot Constantia’s 300-year-old vineyards. Enjoy a glass of chardonnay under the oaks, take part in a wine-tasting tour, and enjoy a healthy lunch from the deli.
Insider Tips
FISH ON THE ROCKS £
PHOTOS: © ALAMY/GETTY IMAGES
For something on the other end of the scale, head down to the industrial docks of Hout Bay to the city’s most iconic fish and chip shop. Fish on the Rocks serves up mountains of fried scampi, prawns, cod, chips, in tubs on the water’s edge. THE VINEYARD HOTEL £££
Brunch at this iconic hotel close to Kirstenbosch Gardens is an institution. Be prepared to eat your heart out while families mill out into the gardens spotting tortoises among the roses.
MEET THE SUNRISE
TAKE THE PLUNGE
UP CLOSE
Experience Table Mountain away from the crowds by booking a hiking tour. There’s a small mountain refuge you can spend the night in so that you are at the top when dawn breaks.
If you’re desperate for a dip but the sea’s too wild, head to Sea Point Pools where the view alone will give you enough energy to take the plunge. Pools are open all year round.
Skip crowded Boulders Bay and drive along the coast towards Betty’s Bay, home to a unique colony of African penguins, where visitors can get up close via the boardwalk without disturbing them.
AUT UM N/ WINTER 2018 | VIKINGCRUISES.CO.UK
81
BE PREPARED The GP Powerbank charger means you never have to worry about running out of battery on your phone or camera again. It’s compact so will easily fit in your bag. from £8.94, gpbatteries.com
TIME TRAVEL Specifically designed for use in the water, the Garmin quatix® 5 is perfect for on the go with lots of clever fitness settings and entertainment apps. £499.99, garmin.com WEATHERPROOF BIKE PHONE MOUNT TREDZ.CO.UK
IN FOCUS Canon binoculars get you closer to the action with superb quality, a choice of magnification and weatherproofing. £1,299.99, canon.com
Travel tech ESSENTIALS Exciting new gadgets to enhance your travels. Edited by Donna Eastlake
ACTION CAMERA VIRB Ultra 30 is ideal for travelling the world and capturing impressive photos and videos of days at sea and spectacular ships. £389.99, garmin.com
FLYING HIGH
STEREO SOUND
Soar over ships, beaches, cities and more with the lightweight, reliable and easy-to-fly Karma Drone. It’ll take your holiday videos to the next level. £999.99, gopro.com
The Portable Stereo from Fusion allows you to listen to your favourite station wherever you are in the world. £229, fusionentertainment.com
READ ON THE GO Kobo Auro H20 is the swimming pool and seaside friendly addition to your travels. It’s totally waterproof, so you can read in the water without worry. £149.99, kobobooks.com
2019 RIVER CRUISES Portugal’s River of Gold 10 days, 8 guided tours Departing March to December 2019
From £1,895pp Elegant Elbe 10 days, 7 guided tours Departing March to November 2019
From £2,795pp Rhine Getaway 8 days, 6 guided tours Departing March to December 2019
From £2,145pp Romantic Danube 8 days, 6 guided tours Departing April to December 2019
From £1,595pp Châteaux, Rivers & Wine 8 days, 7 guided tours Departing March to November 2019
From £2,245pp Waterways of the Tsars 13 days, 10 guided tours Departing May to October 2019
2019 Viking river cruises eight days from £1,595pp
With the world’s largest fleet of innovative river ships – including our multi awardwinning Viking Longships – only Viking can promise you more. More comfort, more quality, more style and more choice of cruises across Europe, Russia and Asia. Relax in spacious, contemporary surroundings. Indulge in fabulous, freshly cooked food and thoughtfully selected wines. Explore the cultures, customs and cuisines of the places you visit on expertly led tours. And discover a unique and exciting new view of the world.
GREAT VIKING VALUE – SO MUCH INCLUDED P Return scheduled flights from London and a choice of up to 14 regional airports at no extra cost P River-view stateroom
From £3,295pp Passage to Eastern Europe 11 days, 7 guided tours Departing March to November 2019
From £2,545pp Imperial Jewels of China 15 days, 11 guided tours Departing March to November 2019
From £3,795pp Lyon & Provence 8 days, 7 guided tours Departing March to November 2019
From £2,145pp Magnificent Mekong 17 days, 14 guided tours Departing January to December 2019
From £4,345pp
P An included excursion in almost every port
Grand European Tour
P Free tea, coffee and snacks any time on board
From £3,345pp
P All meals on board including wine, beer and soft drinks with lunch and dinner
P All port charges, government taxes and overseas transfers
P Free Wi-Fi on board*
P Free Silver Spirits Beverage Package
P On board gratuities**
Call now on 020 8780 7900 or visit vikingcruises.co.uk Prices correct at time of going to print but are subject to availability and change. From prices are per person and based on two people sharing the lowest grade stateroom available, departing on selected dates in 2019. Prices valid until 31 December 2018. *Restrictions apply. Single supplements apply. **Gratuities included on board ship only. Please note on selected cruises a visa may be required and is at the passengers own expense. For more information please visit vikingcruises.co.uk/terms-conditions or call us.
15 days, 12 guided tours Departing April to November 2019
Kiev to the Black Sea 11 days, 11 guided tours Departing May to September 2019
From £3,395pp
020 8780 7900
VIKINGCRUISES.CO.UK
VIKING
NELSON’S HOUSE 83 WIMBLEDON PARKSIDE LONDON SW19 5LP
T WEET US:
@VIKINGCRUISESUK
LIKE US:
FOLLOW US:
FACEBOOK.COM/ VIKINGCRUISESUK
INSTAGRAM.COM/ VIKINGCRUISESUK
EMAIL US:
UK-MARKETING@ VIKINGRIVERCRUISES.COM