The London 2019 Guide

PLAN YOUR PERFECT TRIP... 164 PAGES OF EXPERT ADVICE AND INSPIRING DESTINATIONS

LONDON 2019 GUIDE

CAPITAL EXPERIENCES 99 shows, sights and great days out

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Eat, drink and shop like a local

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2019 GUIDE

30 Welcome to London!

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London’s amazing array of attractions – from iconic monuments to tucked-away art collections – can be daunting. Where to begin? That’s where the London 2019 Guide comes in. Brought to you by London experts, this is your indispensable guide to the city.

Start with our hotlist of 2019 happenings and time your visit to coincide with a hit West End show or blockbuster exhibition. Then follow us on our journey through a day in the life of the city. Spend a morning exploring the vibrant South Bank or browsing a lively market, then check out one of the city’s world-class museums, indulge in afternoon tea or hit the shops. Add in historic restaurants, theatre and beautiful hotels and you have all the ingredients for a perfect London stay.

38 Features 07 99 THINGS TO DO IN 2019

Don’t plan your itinerary until you’ve consulted our roundup of the hottest events and days out for 2019

27 WHAT'S NEW Natasha Foges, Editor

Our pick of the year’s exciting new openings and launches, from hotels and restaurants to cultural events

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The South Bank offers some of the capital’s finest arts and entertainment venues, and is a lively place for a stroll

38 BUCKINGHAM PALACE

We shine the spotlight on the most splendid of all the Queen’s homes LONDON | 2019 GUIDE

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CONTENTS

Features 44 TRADING PLACES

Experience London like a local with a stroll around one of the city’s most popular markets

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2019 GUIDE

From the publishers of

www.britain-magazine.com BRITAIN is the official magazine of VisitBritain, the national tourism agency.

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51 MUSEUMS IN MINIATURE

From Old Masters to ancient chess pieces, discover special items from the London museum collections

Editor Natasha Foges Deputy Editor Zara Gaspar Art Editor Clare White

60 CROWNING GLORY

Be dazzled by the royal crowns and robes, kept at the Tower of London for more than 600 years

Head of Market James Davis Senior Sales Executive Paul Beckham Sebnior Sales Executive Jamie Smith

67 LONDON VILLAGES

Managing Director Paul Dobson Deputy Managing Director Steve Ross Publisher Steve Pill Chief Financial Officer Vicki Gavin Director of Media James Dobson Senior Marketing Executive Drew Brown For VisitBritain Ronan Francis

We explore the capital’s villages, which have long provided city dwellers with a breath of fresh air

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80 TEA TIME

London is the perfect place to indulge in the quintessentially English tradition of afternoon tea

106 FINE DINING

We visit the London restaurants that combine world-class cuisine with a fascinating history

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116 LONDON AFTER DARK

From the iconic skyline to the vibrant theatres and concert halls, the capital comes alive at night

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89 SECRETS OF A CONCIERGE

124 LIQUID HISTORY

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131 CHARACTER IN THE CAPITAL

UK and Rest of World: Seymour, 2 East Poultry Avenue, London EC1A 9PT, England Tel: +44 (0) 20 7429 4000

The Goring’s Head Concierge shares his tips and advice for a memorable stay in London Dating back to the 1660s, this bustling enclave is home to London’s oldest shops

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We visit London’s best pubs and bars for a pint in historic surroundings Make your trip memorable with one of these special places to stay

The London 2019 Guide ISSN 2054-2453 (USPS 004-335) is published by The Chelsea Magazine Company, Jubilee House, 2 Jubilee Place, London SW3 3TQ , UK

98 TOP OF THE SHOPS

139 TRAVEL ESSENTIALS

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London’s quirky and characterful independent shops are a joy to browse Prince Albert’s huge red-brick amphitheatre is the city’s most atmospheric concert venue

Everything you need to know to get your bearings in London to ensure you can get the most out of your trip Leaf through our index for more inspiration on where to stay, what to do and where to eat and drink

© The Chelsea Magazine Company Ltd., 2019. All rights reserved.

Text and pictures are copyright restricted and must not be reproduced without permission of the publishers The information contained in the London 2019 Guide has been published in good faith and every effort has been made to ensure its accuracy.

However, where appropriate, you are strongly advised to check prices, opening times, dates, etc, before making final arrangements. All liability for loss, disappointment, negligence or damage caused by reliance on the information contained within this publication is hereby excluded.

The opinions expressed by contributors to the London 2019 Guide are not necessarily those of the publisher.

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MARKET SHOPS FOOD & DRINK ART & EVENTS

us delicio food street too!

There’s something for everyone at Spitalfields Market.

Visit one of London’s oldest and most-loved artisan and craft markets. Spitalfields is located close to Brick Lane in the heart of the bustling East End.

spitalfields.co.uk

@SpitalfieldsE1

99 THINGS TO DO IN 2019

GARDENS

Calendars at the ready: here are the events and days out you won’t want to miss this year

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DAYS OUT

2. Celebrate the Queen’s official birthday

Grand days out 1. Admire the ultimate royal palace

Buckingham Palace is the Queen’s main residence, and it’s open to the public for just 10 weeks a year (20 July to 29 September). Explore the 19 ornate State Rooms, decorated with an array of fine art and antiques, with the help of an audio tour introduced by Prince Charles himself. www.royal.uk/buckingham-palace

Every June, the Queen’s official birthday is celebrated with the Trooping the Colour procession and ceremony at Horse Guard’s Parade, Whitehall (above). This traditional military event is attended by 1400 soldiers, 200 horses and 400 musicians, and is quite a spectacle. In 2019, the big day will be celebrated on June 8 – get there early to secure your spot in the flag-waving crowds. www.householddivision.org.uk

3. Watch world-class cricket

London has reason to celebrate as this year it plays host to the 2019 ICC Cricket World Cup. From 30 May to 14 July crowds will flock to the Oval and Lord’s to watch the tournament. www.icc-cricket.com/cricket-world-cup

4. Centuries of tradition

The Lord Mayor’s Show is a longstanding tradition in London, full of pomp and spectacle. The 3-mile procession from the City of London to Westminster sees the newly elected Lord Mayor of London swear loyalty to the Crown. The colourful procession includes 7,000 performers and 140 floats, with the Lord Mayor’s golden carriage at the rear. This year, the ceremony takes place on 9 November. www.lordmayorsshow.london

5. Pop into Parliament

Combining 1,000 years of history, the drama of modern-day politics and majestic art and architecture, a visit to the seat of British government (left) is quite an experience. www.parliament.uk

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DAYS OUT

7. Pomp and pageantry

One of the main events on the London calendar is the Changing of the Guard at Buckingham Palace, which currently takes place on Mondays, Wednesdays, Fridays and Sundays from 10.45am. See the Queen’s guard hand over responsibility for her protection while dressed in their crimson coats and signature bearskin hats.

PHOTOS: © VISIT LONDON/VISIT ENGLAND/RHS/STEVE VIDLER/JADA IMAGES/ALAMY

www.changing-guard.com

This high-profile horse-racing event is famous not only for its horses but for its fancy hats (above). The elegant affair (18 to 22 June) is faithfully attended by the Queen, who has a keen interest in horse-racing, not to mention a stylish hat wardrobe. www.ascot.co.uk/royal-ascot

9. Be transported back to Tudor times

From the newly restored Temperate House to the Treetop Walkway, which has a sky-high view of the botanical gardens, Kew offers a fantastic day out.

London’s largest UNESCO World Heritage Site, the gardens are a horticulturalist’s dream, with one of the world’s most diverse plant collections. The Christmas light display (mid-November to early January) is particularly special.

Experience what life was like during Henry VIII’s reign by visiting his favourite palace, Hampton Court.

Swoon at the splendour of the Great Hall, see where feasts were made in the palace kitchens, and get lost in the famous maze. The RHS Hampton Court Flower Show is a must-see (1 to 7 July), and skating on the ice rink is fun way to conclude a visit from mid-November to early January.

www.kew.org

www.hrp.org.uk/hampton-court-palace

6. Botanical beauty

www.britain-magazine.com

8. Don your hat for Royal Ascot

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DAYS OUT

10. Walk in the footsteps of royalty

Westminster Abbey has been the venue for 16 royal weddings. Take a walk down the aisle before visiting the new Queen’s Diamond Jubilee Galleries, set some 52 feet above the abbey’s floor in the 13th-century triforium (right). The galleries house some of the abbey’s most precious artefacts, from the effigy head of Henry VII to the marriage licence of the Duke and Duchess of Cambridge. www.westminster-abbey.org

11. Pelicans in the park

In the 17th century you could see crocodiles, camels and elephants in St James’s Park; while you won’t see anything as exotic today, you can still go and watch pelicans being fed.

These birds have roamed free here for almost 400 years, ever they were gifted to Charles I by Russia. They are fed every day at 2.30pm and 3pm at Duck Island Cottage, at the eastern end of the park’s lake. www.royalparks.org.uk

12. Anyone for tennis?

For two weeks every summer, the British become obsessed with tennis.

This year the Wimbledon tennis championships run from 1 to 14 July.

Get hold of tickets for the chance to see some of the best players at the world’s oldest tennis tournament; and if you don’t manage to secure the coveted Centre Court tickets, it’s worth knowing that after 3pm each day returned tickets go on sale for only £15. www.wimbledon.com

13. Explore the world’s cultures

14. Spot deer at Richmond Park

www.britishmuseum.org

www.royalparks.org.uk

With over 8 million objects covering over 2 million years of history, there is enough in the British Museum to keep you busy for weeks.

One of the oldest museums in the world, it holds precious exhibits such as the Rosetta Stone, the Parthenon Sculptures and the Lewis Chessmen (p51).

The largest of London’s Royal Parks, covering around 2,500 acres, Richmond Park is perfect for a long stroll. Created by Charles I in the 17th century as a deer park, it still boasts 630 red and fallow deer and is a national nature reserve.

15. Cheer on rowers along the Thames

www.theboatrace.org

16. Green and beautiful

The RHS Chelsea Flower Show, held from 21 to 25 May, showcases incredible flower and landscape displays (left). The most famous flower show in England – and possibly the world – it is attended by thousands every year, including the Royal Family. www.rhs.org.uk

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PHOTOS: © ALAN WILLIAMS/NEIL HEPWORTH/RHS

PHOTOS: © FINNBAR WEBSTER/KUMAR SRISKANDAN/ALAMY

One of the world’s oldest sporting events, the annual Boat Race (this year on 7 April) is a great day out. Sit along the riverbank with thousands of cheering spectators to watch crews from Oxford and Cambridge universities go head to head along a 4.2-mile stretch of the Thames.

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DAYS OUT

Sights & attractions 17. Tick tock talks

Tours of Big Ben have been suspended until 2021 while refurbishments are carried out, but you can still marvel at the world’s largest four-faced chiming clock.

And if you want to learn all about its history and workings, book onto one of the regular talks held by the Big Ben team.

20. Visit a royal home

A stately royal residence for over 300 years, Kensington Palace is the current home of the Duke and Duchess of Cambridge, though it is still open to the public. To celebrate the 200th anniversary of Queen Victoria’s birth, the Palace will launch a major exhibition exploring her childhood from 24 May, with rooms decorated as they would have been for the young princess. The stunning gardens and lavish King’s State Apartments are further highlights. www.hrp.org.uk/kensington-palace

www.parliament.uk

18. Architectural marvels

Instantly recognisable on the capital’s skyline, St Paul’s Cathedral (below) sits at the highest point of the City. Sir Christopher Wren’s masterpiece is full of wonder. Walk across the floor where Prince Charles and Diana were married in 1981, climb the 528 steps to the Golden Gallery for breathtaking views or visit the Whispering Gallery for its incredible acoustics. www.stpauls.co.uk

Red double decker buses have become synonymous with London, and they’re a great way to maximise precious sightseeing time. City Tour London offers three itineraries, including the West End Loop, which stops at Westminster Abbey, Buckingham Palace and Marble Arch. If you’d rather sightsee by public transport, try bus route 11, which passes Westminster Abbey, the Houses of Parliament, the Strand and St Paul’s. www.london.city-tour.com

19. See London from the river

Celebrate the 20th birthday of the Thames Clipper service this year by catching a ride on its London River Bus service. The high-speed catamarans leave every 20 minutes from major London piers and afford great views of some major landmarks, from the London Eye and Houses of Parliament to Battersea Power Station. www.thamesclippers.com

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22. Get a birds-eye view of London Tower Bridge is a London landmark with a difference. Standing 42 metres above the Thames on one of the bridge’s walkways, you can watch life go by through the glass floor (left).

Stroll along the walkways, spotting red buses and river boats far below, before learning about the history of the engine rooms and towers. www.towerbridge.org.uk www.britain-magazine.com

PHOTOS: © VISIT BRITAIN/HISTORIC ROYAL PALACES/VERYAN DALE/JEFFREY BLACKLER/ROBERT HARDING/ALAMY

21. Ride a big red bus

DAYS OUT

23. Slide down the UK’s tallest structure

If you’re the adventurous type, the ArcelorMittal Orbit is the experience for you (right). Designed by Anish Kapoor and Cecil Balmond and located in the Queen Elizabeth Olympic Park in East London, it is the longest, fastest and tallest tunnel slide in the world. But if you’re not after an adrenaline rush, this striking landmark is still worth seeing for the beauty of its twisted red tower. www.arcelormittalorbit.com

24. Take to the skies

The Emirates Air Line cable car crosses the Thames from the Royal Docks to Greenwich Peninsula, offering stunning views from 90 metres up. The UK’s first urban cable car opened in time for the London 2012 Olympics, offering a unique perspective on East London. www.emiratesairline.co.uk

25. London from every angle

As the wheel turns, a different view of the city reveals itself. The London Eye offers a spectacular 360-degree panorama, soaring to over 400 feet.

Inside one of its 32 capsules, you can see as far as 25 miles across London.

It’s a great way to take in the city’s skyline – and tick off the big sights all at once. www.londoneye.com

26. Climb an icon

If you have a head for heights, make the exhilarating climb up and over the roof of the domed O2 Arena for stunning views of Greenwich, Canary Wharf and the Queen Elizabeth Park – thrills guaranteed. www.theo2.co.uk

27. Discover glorious Greenwich

Stand astride Greenwich’s historic Prime Meridian, divider of East and West, and visit Greenwich Observatory (left), home of Greenwich Mean Time. While you’re in the area, don’t miss the chance to climb aboard Cutty Sark, the world’s only surviving tea clipper, which celebrates its 150th anniversary this year. The fascinating National Maritime Museum (p51) and the Old Royal Naval College, Christopher Wren’s riverside masterpiece, are other local must-sees, and Greenwich Market (p44) is always worth a browse. www.visitgreenwich.org.uk www.britain-magazine.com

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DAYS OUT

28. Take in skyline views

Glass-clad skyscraper The Shard offers the highest lookout point in the city. A lift whizzes you up to the 69th floor, where head-spinning 360-degree views await at The View from the Shard. The open-air viewing platform on the 72nd floor is as spectacular a setting as you can imagine; the Skydeck bar serves cocktails, so can sip as you watch the sun go down. www.the-shard.com

31. Walk with dinosaurs

With over 80 million specimens to explore, the Natural History Museum (right) is a treasure trove. Be awed by the animatronic dinosaurs, say hello to Hope, the Blue Whale skeleton in the splendid Hintze Hall, and take in an array of taxidermy, including a stuffed dodo. The annual Wildlife Photographer of the Year exhibition and Christmas ice-skating rink are also well worth dropping by for. www.nhm.ac.uk

32. Find a cure at the Science Museum

Visitors to the Postal Museum not only have a chance to ride the Mail Rail, an immersive underground experience on a miniature train, but by sponsoring one of the museum’s wooden sleepers, they can join exclusive walking tours through the hidden underground tunnels of this former engineering depot.

The Science Museum’s new medicine galleries are due to open this year on the first floor after a £24 million transformation. See one of the most significant medicine collections in the world, as well as other awardwinning exhibitions, the IMAX Theatre and hands-on science shows.

The museum is great for kids too: the Wonderlab gallery has lots of fun interactive exhibits.

www.postalmuseum.org

www.sciencemuseum.org.uk

30. See the city that rose

33. Hunt for a bargain

29. Walk the rails

from the ashes

Built to commemorate the Great Fire of London in 1666, the 202-foot Monument is the tallest freestanding column in the world. Climb the 311 steps to the top for panoramic views of the City and beyond.

Stroll through the cobbled streets of Notting Hill and pick up a special souvenir at Portobello Road Market, the world’s largest antique market (p44). Saturday is the main trading day; arrive before 11.30am to avoid the crowds.

www.themonument.info

www.portobelloroad.co.uk

34. Board a historic bus

Packed with trains, buses and trams, and even a horse-drawn omnibus, the London Transport Museum (left) has plenty to occupy trainspotters (and not only). Board a bus or see what it’s like to drive a tube, and explore over 200 years of history through the museum’s absorbing displays. New for 2019 is Hidden London: a programme of organised tours and events at disused stations and secret sites across the capital.

PHOTOS: © PAUL CLARKE

www.ltmuseum.co.uk

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40. Go underground

Hidden beneath the streets of Westminster lies the secret bunker in which former Prime Minister Winston Churchill made crucial decisions about the Second World War. You can wander the corridors and visit Churchill’s historic rooms, many of which have been left untouched since 1945, including the Map Room, Churchill’s bedroom and the Cabinet Room. www.iwm.org.uk

Head to leafy Regent’s Park and meet some of the animals at one of England’s oldest zoos. ZSL London Zoo is home to tigers, lemurs, penguins and much more. Events are organised throughout the day, from the pygmy hippos’ bath to feeding time for the giraffes. www.zsl.org

36. Walk like a Beatle

If you’re a Beatles fan, you have to make a stop at Abbey Road Studios in St John’s Wood, North London: not only the most famous recording studio in the world, but a place that’s synonymous with the Beatles after they recorded their last album there.

Walk across the zebra crossing where the band were snapped for the iconic Abbey Road album cover, humming Beatles classics as you go. www.abbeyroad.com www.britain-magazine.com

37. Enter a wizard’s world

Follow in Harry Potter’s wizardy footsteps with the Warner Bros Studio Tour, which takes you behind the scenes to see sets, props and costumes from the films. www.wbstudiotour.co.uk

38. London street life

Covent Garden (right) is known for its entertaining street performers. Join the throng on the cobblestoned Piazza to be wowed by the street performers, and afterwards get a bite to eat at one of its many restaurants.

PHOTOS: © VISIT BRITAIN/PAWEL LIBERA/RICHARD ASH/IWM

35. Animal magic

www.coventgarden.london

39. All aboard

Climb aboard the Golden Hinde, a life-size replica of the ship Sir Francis Drake used to circumnavigate the world from 1557 to 1580, and hear fascinating tales of his voyage. www.goldenhinde.co.uk LONDON | 2019 GUIDE

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Art & culture 41. See the past brought to life at the V&A The world’s leading museum for art and design, the Victoria and Albert Museum, not only has 2.3 million objects covering 5,000 years of history, but also puts on an exciting programme of exhibitions. This year, the V&A launches the biggestever Christian Dior exhibition, Designer of Dreams (2 February to 14 July), exploring Dior’s relationship with Britain: highlights include the dress that Princess Margaret wore to her 21st birthday party. www.vam.ac.uk

42. Picture this

www.npg.org.uk

43. Instrumental icon

The Wigmore Hall is one of the capital’s top venues for chamber and instrumental music, and hosts more than 400 concerts throughout the year in its gorgeous Art Nouveau interior.

Tickets are priced from just £16.

PHOTOS: © PETER DAZELEY

The National Portrait Gallery holds the most extensive collection of portraits in the world. Celebrate the best in contemporary portrait painting with the BP Portrait Award 2019 (13 June to 20 October) or catch Elizabethan Treasures, a major exhibition dedicated to Tudor and Jacobean portrait miniatures (21 February to 19 May).

wigmore-hall.org.uk

45. Become a bookworm

44. Celebrate Queen Victoria's birthday

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The British Library holds the world’s biggest collection of books, journals, manuscripts and sound recordings, with more than 150 million items, including everything ever published in the UK and Ireland. Library treasures include the Magna Carta, The Beatles’ manuscripts and Leonardo da Vinci’s notebook. The library also hosts exhibitions; look out for Leonardo da Vinci: A Mind in Motion (7 June to 8 September), marking the 500th anniversary of the artist and inventor’s death.

To mark the 200th anniversary of Queen Victoria’s birth, a special exhibition entitled Queen Victoria’s Palace will be held at the Queen’s Gallery at Buckingham Palace (20 July to 29 September).

This exhibition space, which displays art and antiques from the Royal Collection, is always worth a visit, but especially this year.

46. Jazz sounds

www.rct.uk

www.ronniescotts.co.uk

www.bl.uk

Opened in 1959, Ronnie Scott’s in Soho is one of the most famous jazz clubs in the world and a London institution. Its 60th anniversary year promises a packed programme of memorable shows.

www.britain-magazine.com

DAYS OUT

47. Catch an exhibition at the Royal Academy

The Royal Academy of Arts is one of the oldest permanent collections of art in the UK and a must-visit for artists and art-lovers. This year, its exhibitions explore everything from Renaissance nudes (3 March to 2 June) to the works of sculptor Antony Gormley (21 September to 3 December) and the self-portraits of modern master Lucian Freud (from 27 October). www.royalacademy.org.uk www.britain-magazine.com

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48. Dance in the streets

The two-day Notting Hill Carnival (24 to 26 August) is one of the world’s largest street festivals, celebrating the colour and vibrancy of Caribbean heritage. Enjoy dancing in the street to reggae, calypso and rumba beats. www.thelondonnottinghillcarnival.com

49. Listen to Longplayer

Longplayer, the world’s longest musical composition, began on 31 December 1999. Composed

by Jem Finer for Tibetan singing bowls, it is designed to play without repetition for 1,000 years. You can listen to it at Trinity Buoy Wharf. longplayer.org

50. Home of contemporary art

Exhibitions at the iconic Tate Modern are always thought-provoking. Pierre Bonnard: The Colour of Memory (23 January to 6 May) is the first exhibition dedicated to the master of colour and composition in the UK in 20 years, while Dorothea Tanning (27 February to 9 June) puts the work of the surrealist painter in the frame. www.tate.org.uk

51. Art in the park

The Serpentine Galleries, located either side of the Serpentine Lake in Kensington Gardens, focus on cutting-edge contemporary art.

Exhibition highlights of 2019 explore the work of visual artist Hito Steyerl (6 March to 6 May) and Emma Kunz, the late Swiss artist (23 March to 19 May). Look out for the summer Pavilion: a striking temporary space that is created by a different architect each year. www.serpentinegalleries.org

52. See a masterpiece

Tate Britain houses the largest collection of British art in the world, and its exhibitions are well worth making time in your itinerary for.

Don McCullin (5 February to 6 May) explores the work of the legendary British war photographer, while Van Gogh and Britain (27 March to 11 August) is the biggest exhibition of the artist’s paintings in the UK for nearly a decade. www.tate.org.uk

53. Enjoy art after dark

The National Gallery’s big 2019 exhibitions include Boilly: Scenes of Parisian Life (28 February to 19 May); Sorolla: Spanish Master of Light (18 March to 7 July); Bartolomé Bermejo: Master of the Spanish Renaissance (12 June to 29 September); and Gauguin Portraits (from 7 October). Every Friday, the gallery is open until 9pm, offering a different perspective on the worldfamous works on display here. www.nationalgallery.org.uk

As well as its varied year-round programme of concerts and shows, the Royal Albert Hall (p103) is home to the hugely popular annual BBC Proms, celebrating its 125th season this year. The world’s biggest series of classical music concerts runs from 19 July to 14 September; booking opens in May. www.royalalberthall.com

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PHOTOS: © SUNG KUK KIM/ALAMY

54. Go Promming

DAYS OUT

Stage & screen 55. Home of the Bard

Be transported back to the 16th century at Shakespeare’s Globe, an open-air replica of the Bard’s Elizabethan playhouse. This year the Globe is taking us on a journey through the royal history of “this blessed plot, this earth, this realm, this England” via Henry IV, Henry V, Henry VI and Richard III. www.shakespearesglobe.com

56. World-class theatre

The National Theatre boasts three auditoriums, staging a mix of classics and plays from emerging talent. 2019 highlights include When We Have Sufficiently Tortured Each Other, Cate Blanchett’s National debut (from 23 January) and Stephen Sondheim’s Follies (from 12 February). www.nationaltheatre.org.uk

57. West End delights

The West End, London’s theatreland, has a host of 2019 highlights: Dolly Parton’s 9 to 5 The Musical at the Savoy Theatre from 28 January; Cameron Mackintosh’s Mary Poppins at the Prince Edward Theatre from the autumn; and Fame the Musical at the Peacock Theatre (11 September to 19 October). West End Live, a free weekend of musical theatre, takes over Trafalgar Square on 16 and 17 June. officiallondontheatre.com/tkts; www.westendlive.co.uk

58. Enjoy a film on the

biggest screen

The Southbank’s BFI is the country’s most prestigious cinema, with four screens showing classic and contemporary films. It’s also got an IMAX screen – Britain’s biggest – and hosts the BFI Film Festival in October.

60. Watch a film under the stars

For two weeks in the summer, Somerset House (above) hosts a popular summer screen event. Bring a blanket to sit on and a picnic, and enjoy a classic film in the beautiful setting of this neoclassical building. www.somersethouse.org.uk

61. Tap your feet at Sadler’s Wells From contemporary to ballet, tap to flamenco, Sadler’s Wells presents more new dance shows than anywhere else in the world. This season see the world premiere of Matthew Bourne’s Romeo and Juliet (7 to 31 August) and the return of the San Francisco Ballet (29 May to 8 June).

63. Be dazzled at the Royal Opera House

For opera or ballet, Covent Garden’s splendid Royal Opera House is second to none. This season includes new productions such as Billy Budd (23 April to 10 May), as well as revivals of Mozart’s Così fan Tutte (25 February to 16 March) and Bizet’s Carmen (22 June to 20 July). www.roh.org.uk

www.sadlerswells.com

62. Cultural kudos

The Barbican – a vast arts venue that’s the largest of its kind in the UK – hosts theatres, a concert and music hall, three cinemas, an art gallery and exhibition space, and even a conservatory where you can take afternoon tea. Don’t miss the first retrospective in Europe in 50 years of abstract American artist Lee Krasner’s work (30 May to 1 September). www.barbican.org.uk

64. Play in the park

The Open Air Theatre in Regent’s Park provides a unique way of watching a performance (below). By day you can enjoy the tranquil park setting in the sunshine, while at night watching the show under the stars adds to the drama. This year’s productions include Thornton Wilder’s Our Town (16 May to 8 June); an operatic retelling of Hansel and Gretel by Engelbert Humperdinck (14 to 22 June); Shakespeare’s A Midsummer Night’s Dream (28 June to 27 July) and Andrew Lloyd Webber’s Evita (2 August to 21 September). openairtheatre.com

www.bfi.org.uk

PHOTOS: © VISIT BRITAIN/ERIC NATHAN

59. Curtain call

Opened in 1818, the Old Vic should be on any theatre-goer’s list. Known as the “actor’s theatre”, it has launched many a thespian’s career.

Productions this year include an Arthur Miller double bill: The American Clock and All My Sons, starring Sally Field and Bill Pullman. www.oldvictheatre.com www.britain-magazine.com

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DAYS OUT

Food & drink 65. Pick up a treat at Borough Market

70. Eat at Harrods’

If you only have time to visit one food market in London, it should be Borough (p44). London’s oldest food market has been around for over a thousand years. You can find everything from gourmet cheeses to salt beef baguettes, or just soak up the vibrant atmosphere.

The four food halls at Harrods are a food lover’s paradise and their revamp has provided space for a host of new delights. The end of 2018 saw the opening of the redesigned Market Hall and deli (right); next up is the Dining Hall, expected to open mid-2019.

boroughmarket.org.uk

www.harrods.com

revamped food hall

66. New openings

Coal Drops Yard opened in King’s Cross at the end of 2018. This new development is a haven for foodies, with restaurants such as Michelinstarred Barrafina, Mexican restaurant Casa Pastor and The Drop wine bar to choose from. You can work up an appetite before lunch by browsing the complex’s 50 boutiques. www.coaldropsyard.com

67. Eat dumplings in Chinatown

Chinatown is unlike any other part of the capital. With its red lanterns and dragons, this bustling neighbourhood makes you feel as though you’ve stepped out of London and into Asia.

It’s definitely worth a visit for some dim sum, and for its vibrant festivities during the Chinese New Year (mid-January to February). chinatown.co.uk

68. Shop for foodie souvenirs

Opened in 1707, Fortnum & Mason (p93) is the place to shop for luxury food items. From caviar and cheese to chocolates and biscuits, it’ll leave your mouth watering. Even if you don’t want to fork out for food, the store is worth visiting for its beautiful displays alone.

71. World-class cocktails

The American Bar at The Savoy (p124) is one of the longest surviving cocktail bars in the world, decorated in 1930s style, with a live pianist playing American jazz seven days a week. Don your glad rags and visit for a cocktail, and if you get the chance, check out the hidden cocktail museum. www.fairmont.com/savoy

72. Dine with skyline views

The Sky Garden – located in the Walkie Talkie building, so called because of its distinctive shape – offers stunning panoramic views of London. Classic English cuisine is served at the Fenchurch restaurant at the top and the Darwin Brasserie on the floor below, or enjoy a sundowner at the Sky Pod Bar (below). There’s a viewing gallery on the 43rd floor, and you can stroll three stories of landscaped indoor gardens.

73. Have a pint in a historic pub

You’ve got to enjoy a beer in a pub while in London so why not head for one of the city’s oldest drinking establishments, a creaky, lowceilinged affair where the likes of Charles Dickens and poet John Dryden once whet their whistle?

The Lamb & Flag pub is tucked away down an alleyway in Covent Garden and is a wonderful place for a pint. lambandflagcoventgarden.co.uk

skygarden.london

www.fortnumandmason.com

69. Discover London’s wine scene From 14 to 20 May over 100 venues across the city will take part in London Wine Week, now in its sixth year. Wine connoisseurs will be able to take part in tours, tastings and events – many of which will be held in new street-food destination Flat Iron Square near Borough Market – in celebration of their favourite tipple. www.drinkup.london/wineweek

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DAYS OUT

80. Embrace the gin craze

77. Enjoy a curry on Brick Lane

Brick Lane is famous for its curry houses, so if you’re looking for something spicy, this East London hub is where it’s at. Aladin has been rated by the BBC as one of the best curry houses in the world, and has even received praise from the Prince of Wales, no less.

74. Walk up an appetite

Eating London Tours are a great way to discover different parts of the city while enjoying delicious treats along the way. Guides take you off the beaten path to learn about the history of different neighbourhoods, tempting you with local delicacies as you go. www.eatinglondontours.co.uk

75. Flavours to savour

The Taste of London food festival in Regent’s Park should be on any foodie’s calendar. Taking place from 19 to 23 June, the event allows food-lovers to browse over 200 food and drink stalls, watch live cooking demos, meet top chefs and taste dishes from some of London’s best restaurants.

London has gone gin-crazy, and if you’re partial to a gin cocktail why not treat yourself to a distillery tour? Sipsmith’s Distillery (above) and the City of London Distillery offer the best.

Discover the history of gin in London, learn all about gin-making and enjoy a taste of this deliciously sippable spirit. sipsmith.com; www.cityoflondondistillery.com

www.aladinbricklane.co.uk

78. Go tea tasting

The Twinings Afternoon Experience will teach you all about the history of Twinings and that quintessential English ritual, afternoon tea. Learn about where the teas come from, how the nation’s favourite drink is made and even how it is paired with certain foods. www.twinings.co.uk

79. Take tea at the Ritz

The Ritz is a British institution, and its afternoon tea – a quintessentially British affair – is perennially popular.

Tea is served in the beautiful Palm Court, where both service and style are impeccable.

The Sherlock Holmes Pub near Charing Cross station (above) is not just a traditional pub. Head upstairs and you’ll find a replica of Sherlock Holmes’ famous Baker Street flat, complete with study and sitting room.

www.theritzlondon.com

www.greeneking-pubs.co.uk

81. Drink like a detective

www.tastefestivals.com

PHOTOS: © ROBERT HARDING//DAVID CRAUSBY/ALAMY

76. Michelin marvels

If you’ve got the cash to splash or want to mark a special occasion, treat yourself to dinner at one of the capital’s Michelin-starred restaurants.

Three restaurants in London have been awarded three Michelin stars for 2019: Gordon Ramsay in Chelsea, Alain Ducasse at the Dorchester and The Araki in Mayfair. www.gordonramsayrestaurants.com; www.alainducasse-dorchester.com; www.the-araki.com www.britain-magazine.com

82. Have a fry-up

Old-school cafés can still be found in London, if you know where to look.

The Regency Café in Westminster (left) serves up a traditional, no-frills English breakfast. This Art Decostyle caff may not be grand, but it’s hugely popular. regencycafe.co.uk LONDON | 2019 GUIDE

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Hidden gems 83. Step into Tudor times

www.nationaltrust.org.uk

84. Take time to reflect at

the Kyoto Garden

This tranquil garden, set in Holland Park, is a relaxing spot, with koi carp, bonsai and a rock waterfall. Gifted by Kyoto in 1991 in recognition of the friendship between Britain and Japan, the garden is a peaceful place for a stroll. Visit in April to admire the cherry blossom in full bloom.

86. Read aboard a boat

Word on the Water (right) is a floating bargeturned-bookstore stationed near Granary Square in King’s Cross. Bookworms will love their unusual book collection, and the barge also hosts live jazz performances. www.kingscross.co.uk

88. Visit Henry VIII’s childhood home

Eltham Palace, once the childhood home of Henry VIII, was converted into an Art Deco-style mansion by the wealthy Courtaulds. Some original medieval features from the Tudor royal residence remain, but it’s the glamorous 1930s interiors (left) that steal the show.

www.rbkc.gov.uk

85. Return to the Victorian era

18 Stafford Terrace is the former house of Punch cartoonist Edward Linley Sambourne. Opened to the public in 1980, it offers a unique insight into London during the 1800s.

Costumed tours are also available, for the full Victorian experience.

www.english-heritage.org.uk

89. See the walrus at the Horniman

www.rbkc.gov.uk

The Horniman Museum holds an eclectic collection of 350,000 objects, ranging from anthropological exhibits to musical instruments. Set in a 16-acre garden, it’s a great day out.

Highlights include the overstuffed walrus that has been at the museum for more than a century, the Egyptian mummy (p51) and the aquarium in the basement, home to exotic jellyfish.

A new arts space hosts The Lore of the Land (until 2 June), an immersive exhibition that examines humans’ relationship with the natural world. www.horniman.ac.uk

87. Enter a world of curiosities

The former home of Sir John Soane, the celebrated architect who designed the Bank of England, is now Sir John Soane’s Museum (left): a spectacular showcase for the great man’s personal collection of antiques, sculptures, curiosities and art, including works by Hogarth, Turner and Canaletto. www.soane.org

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90. Search for treasure in Camden Passage A cobblestoned alley just off Islington’s Upper Street is home to over 200 antiques vendors, selling everything from botanical prints to vintage ceramics: a great place to find something unique. www.camdenpassageislington.co.uk www.britain-magazine.com

PHOTOS: © MICHAEL HEATH/ALAMY/ENGLISH HERITAGE/GARETH GARDNER

Sutton House in Hackney is one of the oldest examples of a Tudor house in Greater London. Owned by the National Trust, this red-brick home was built in 1535 by Sir Ralph Sadleir, Henry VIII’s Principal Secretary of State. Walking through its oak-panelled rooms, you’ll feel like you’ve stepped back in time.

NOW OP E N AT TH E TOP OF THE GHERKIN Join us at Helix restaurant and Iris bar, now open to the public on levels 39 and 40 at the Gherkin for the first time, with stunning 360° views across the city of London.

OPENING HOUR S

11am – late (Monday – Saturday) S U N DAY B R UN CH | PRIVATE DINING RO O M S | E XC LUSIVE HIRE BOO K ONLINE NOW

searcysatthegherkin.co.uk +44 (0) 330 1070 816

DAYS OUT

91. Take a medicinal walk

Tucked away by the Thames, the Chelsea Physic Garden is the oldest botanical garden in London, first established by apothecaries in 1673 in oder to grow medicinal plants.

Visitors can enjoy a stroll around the 3.5-acre site, home to over 5,000 different plants, or take a self-guided historical or medicinal tour. www.chelseaphysicgarden.co.uk

92. A painter’s retreat

One of England’s greatest painters, JMW Turner, built Sandycombe Lodge near Twickenham in 1813 as a peaceful retreat for himself and his father, in retirement from his job as a barber and wigmaker in Covent Garden. Tours of the house highlight a different side to the painter and explore this special building, recently beautifully restored.

HMS Belfast (above) is a warship and London landmark docked on the Thames between London Bridge and Tower Bridge. This Second World War survivor is now a floating museum. Step on board, explore its nine decks and find out what life was like for the crew at war and at sea.

www.turnershouse.org

www.iwm.org.uk

94. Board a historic warship

96. Find the Foundling Museum

The Foundling Museum explores the history of the Foundling Hospital, the UK’s first children’s charity and public art gallery. Its exhibits tell the story of the children who lived at the hospital and the artistic community that supported the hospital from its 18th-century beginnings. foundlingmuseum.org.uk

97. Visit the home of the dictionary Dr Johnson’s House, tucked away in a maze of alleys in the heart of the City, is the former residence of 18th-century writer and wit, Samuel Johnson. This Georgian townhouse offers a glimpse into the life of the writer who wrote the first Dictionary of the English Language; you can inspect his most famous work in the simple Garret, where it was written, try on Georgian costumes, or relax in the Library. www.drjohnsonshouse.org

The Wallace Collection (above) is like a jewel box: paintings, sculptures, furniture, armour and porcelain embellish a richly decorated 18th-century house in Marylebone. Started by the Marquesses of Hertford and Sir Richard Wallace, it has grown into one of the finest collections of European fine and decorative masterpieces in the world. This year’s exhibitions include an exploration of Henry Moore’s lifelong fascination with armour (6 March to 23 June), and humorous paintings of the Parisian bourgeoisie by Louis-Léopold Boilly (January to May). www.wallacecollection.org

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98. A Georgian time capsule

41 Cloth Fair in Farringdon is the oldest house in London. Built between 1597 and 1614 it is the only home to have survived the Great Fire of London in 1666. You can stay just next door at 45a or 43 Cloth Fair, both managed and preserved by the Landmark Trust.

Hidden down an old-world street in Spitalfields, Dennis Severs’ House offers an astonishing immersive experience that allows you a glimpse of what life was like for a family of Huguenot silk-weavers in the 18th century. You are invited to wander the rooms in silence as the sights, sounds and smells of the house bring the past to life. At Christmas, the candlelit Silent Night tours are not to be missed.

www.landmarktrust.org.uk

www.dennissevershouse.co.uk

95. See London’s oldest house

www.britain-magazine.com

PHOTOS: © CAPTURE IT LTD

93. Be inspired at the Wallace Collection

DAYS OUT

99. London’s last ducal house

Syon House is owned by the Duke of Northumberland.

This beautiful Tudor mansion is set in a 200-acre park, with gardens designed by ‘Capability’ Brown. It also boasts a grisly claim to fame: Henry VIII’s fourth wife, Catherine Howard, spent her last days here before she was executed. www.syonpark.co.uk www.britain-magazine.com

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WHAT ’S NEW

WHAT’S

NEW From illuminated bridges to restaurant openings, here are some new experiences to try in 2019 WORDS ZARA GASPAR

EAT

GO With so much to see and do, getting around the city can be daunting, but it doesn’t have to be, with new upgrades to transport links. At the end of last year, the first fleet of electric black taxis hit the streets ahead of Transport for London’s Ultra-Low Emission Zone being introduced. The Sherbet Ride app will allow you to order electric taxis, which are not only more environmentally friendly, but will also have more space, charging points and wi-fi. www.britain-magazine.com

And despite delays, Crossrail’s brand-new Elizabeth line is due to open in 2019. The new railway will travel southeast from Paddington to Abbey Wood via Canary Wharf, northeast from Liverpool Street to Shenfield and southwest from Paddington to Heathrow, making it easier for visitors to get across the capital. Central stations include Bond Street, Farringdon and Tottenham Court Road. www.levc.com; tfl.gov.uk

London’s food scene ranges from Michelinstar restaurants to some of the best street food in the world, and there are some exciting launches planned for this year.

The old Edwardian shopping arcade at Victoria’s Terminus Place was recently converted into the new Market Hall Victoria with 11 kitchens, an array of food traders and three bars over three floors. This spring, a new roof terrace is to be added.

But it’s not London’s only new market.

Mercato Metropolitano, which opened the first sustainable community market for conscientious food lovers in a disused paper factory in Elephant and Castle in 2016, will open in St Mark’s, a restored Grade I-listed church on North Audley St in Mayfair in the spring. The 16,000-square-foot Mercato Mayfair will hold artisan food stalls, a restaurant, deli, wine bar and brewery, among much more, and a rooftop terrace and outdoor bar are also planned.

There are some stylish new restaurants on the horizon too. Officially opening on 22 February, VIVI at the iconic Centre Point promises to be a beautiful new all-day dining destination for the West End. The vibrant interiors will take their inspiration from 1960s Swinging London – the decade in which Centre Point was built. The all-day menu will be made up of nostalgic British dishes modernised for today. www.markethalls.co.uk; www.mercatometropolitano.co.uk; www.rhubarb.co.uk LONDON | 2019 GUIDE

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WHAT ’S NEW

SEE

STAY There are plenty of hotels opening this year, but our picks are the Belmond Cadogan Hotel, due to open 1 February, and Vintry & Mercer, taking reservations from 4 February.

Built in 1887, the Cadogan Hotel (above), a Queen Anne-style building at the crossroads between Knightsbridge and Chelsea, has been lavishly restored. Guests can relax in the garden, warm themselves in front of the fire or enjoy a local gin at the stylish bar. The 54-room hotel, once home to Oscar Wilde, also houses 400 pieces of original art.

Vintry & Mercer also brings the past tastefully up to date. Set among the livery halls and guilds of the City, this 92-room hotel takes inspiration from the area’s rich history. Vintry, established in 1364, was once a hub for London’s wine merchants, while Mercer, established in 1304, was for textile sellers; beautiful fabrics are used throughout.

Guests can enjoy views from the rooftop restaurant or sip a cocktail at the secret bar. www.belmond.com; www.vintryandmercer.com

Visitors flock to London for its rich culture, art and history, but for the seasoned traveller, there’s always something new to see.

The Painted Hall at the Old Royal Naval College will be re-opening in mid-January after three years of restoration works. The dazzling 18th-century hall created by Sir James Thornhill, often referred to as the UK’s Sistine Chapel, will be revealed in all its glory.

London’s Cartoon Museum also has a new home in Wells Street near Oxford Circus.

Opening in the spring, the museum, which features British cartoons and comic art from the 18th century to present day, will be launching an exciting new programme.

Summer 2019 will see London’s bridges transformed by a large-scale public art installation celebrating the Thames by the Illuminated River Foundation (below).

London Bridge, Cannon Street, Southwark and Millennium bridges will be the first to light up. When finished, the glowing installation will span up to 15 central London bridges, from Albert Bridge in West London to Tower Bridge in the City.

It’s not only London’s bridges in the spotlight. Waltham Forest has been crowned the Borough of Culture for 2019. A £5.75 million development programme will help attract visitors and highlight what this North East London borough has to offer, from the William Morris Gallery to the Hitchcock mosaics in Leytonstone Tube Station.

PHOTOS: © DUKE'S HOTEL/ KIM LIGHTBODY

www.ornc.org; www.cartoonmuseum.org; illuminatedriver.london; wfculture19.co.uk

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OPENING 22ND FEBRUARY 2019 VISIT VIVI, A BEAUTIFUL BRITISH RESTAURANT AT CENTREPOINT, IN THE HEART OF LONDON BREAKFAST | LUNCH | DINNER | AFTERNOON TEA | PRE-THEATRE DINING

BY

SOUTH BANK

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www.britain-magazine.com

SOUTH BANK

DOWN BY THE

RIVER

Once there were bear-baiting pits and brothels. Today, the South Bank offers some of the capital’s finest concert halls, theatres and art galleries WORDS LAURA SILVERMAN

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SOUTH BANK

Previous page: The South Bank's riverside walkway is lined with restaurants Clockwise, from this image: It's a two-mile stroll along the river; the London Eye; the Royal Festival Hall

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PHOTOS: © HULTON ARCHIVE/GETTY IMAGES/ROYAL COLLECTION TRUST/ HER MAJESTY QUEEN ELIZABETH II 2015/2018

PHOTOS: © MAURIZIO RELLINI/SUSANNE KREMER/4CORNERS IMAGES/ROGER CRACKNELL/ALAMY/ILLUSTRATION BY STELLA ISAAC

T

he Elizabethans would have felt quite at home on the South Bank, the area beside the Thames that stretches from Westminster Bridge in the west to Blackfriars Bridge in the east. Today, it offers all the entertainment you could desire, from the Royal Festival Hall to Tate Modern. There are riverside restaurants and markets. Back in the 1600s, it was also a place for pleasure. Its position just outside the city made it a haven for bearbaiting, unlicensed plays and prostitution. The Bankside Globe opened in 1599, becoming the venue for the latest Shakespeare.

Southwark Fair ran every September from 1550, featuring tightrope walkers and puppeteers.

A two-mile stroll along the river takes in all the modern delights and reveals signs of the area’s past: from playhouses to factories to its cultural renaissance. We start at the London Eye, its 32 pods turning at 0.6 miles (1km) an hour. At 443ft (135m), it is Europe’s tallest Ferris wheel. Now a fixture of the skyline, it was almost never built.

Julia Barfield and David Marks entered the design into a Sunday Times competition in 1993. The contest was abandoned, but the architects pressed ahead. The Eye opened just after the Millennium.

On a clear day, you can see 25 miles (40km) in all directions. Even in the gloom, you can glimpse Buckingham Palace.

A little further east is the Southbank Centre, a complex of concert halls and exhibition spaces, including the Royal Festival Hall, the Queen Elizabeth Hall and the Hayward Gallery. There’s also a host of cafés and bars. The Elizabethans would have been in their element – so much merriment. During the Georgian and Victorian eras, however, the area was quite different. The Industrial Revolution of the 1700s gave the South Bank a certain grittiness. There were coal wharves and timber yards. There was banging and clanging and smog. On the site of the Royal Festival Hall stood the Red Lion Brewery. It thrived for 100 years, but was ravaged by fire in 1931.

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PHOTOS: © HM QUEEN ELIZABETH II, 2001/KEITH DAVEY/HISTORIC ROYAL PALACES

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PHOTOS: © GRAHAM PRENTICE/MONICA WELLS/MERIDIAN IMAGES/ALAMY/OLIMPIO FANTUZ/MAURIZIO RELLINI/4 CORNERS IMAGES

The area suffered during the Second World War – Waterloo Station nearby was bombed 50 times – and the building was left empty. But as London recovered, the site became an opportunity.

The Queen’s Hall, the capital’s main concert hall, across the river, had been demolished in the Blitz. A replacement was needed. The brewery was knocked down and, in 1949, Prime Minister Clement Attlee laid the foundation stone of the Royal Festival Hall, promising to “show the world that we are not just a nation of shopkeepers, but a people who appreciate and practise the arts”.

Plans were also afoot for the 1951 Festival of Britain to celebrate the end of shortages. The main area would be that derelict site across the river, now christened the South Bank. The Royal Festival Hall became the main exhibition space. The area was transformed. The Queen Elizabeth Hall and the Hayward Gallery opened in the Sixties.

Then there’s the building under Waterloo Bridge…

The Festival of Britain featured The Telecinema, a cinema built to celebrate British film-making. It closed in 1957, but a new building opened next door: the National Film Theatre, the old name of the British Film Institute, which stands there today. The BFI Southbank holds the London Film Festival every October, and offers a strong range of classics throughout the year. The screens are small and cosy.

It’s a short hop to the National Theatre. It too has its origins in post-war regeneration, although plans took 25 years to come together.

The late Queen Mother laid the foundation stone in 1951, but the site kept moving (she apparently joked that the stone should have been put on castors). Work began on the current site in 1969, and the building opened in 1976. The Prince of Wales once described its Modernist architecture as “a clever way of building a nuclear power station in

SOUTH BANK

Clockwise, from this image: The park in front of Tate Modern has views of St Paul's; Gabriel's Wharf; Tate Modern; books for sale on the South Bank; Oxo Tower

the middle of London without anyone objecting”. But its distinctiveness is part of its appeal.

Gathering pace, we reach the gift shops and cafés of Gabriel’s Wharf. Once owned by the Gabriel family of timber merchants, the local community took it over in the late Eighties. Old garages were placed alongside each other, creating workspaces for designers and makers. The designer-maker theme continues in Oxo Tower Wharf, with shops selling handmade jewellery and homeware. The tower’s restaurant, on the eighth floor, offers impressive views of St Paul’s Cathedral across the river. Its red windows, spelling Oxo, reveal the building’s former use: in the Twenties and Thirties, Liebig’s Extract of Meat Company produced thousands of Oxo stock cubes here.

Trotting along, we reach Doggett’s Coat & Badge, a pub named after a race, named, in turn, after an actor. In 1715, Thomas Doggett offered a coat and a badge to the winner of a rowing race for

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watermen (men who offered a river taxi service). The race is still held every August.

From here, it’s a short walk under two more bridges towards Tate Modern, a former power station. It was designed by Sir Giles Gilbert Scott (the man behind the red telephone box), with tweaks by Jacques Herzog and Pierre de Meuron to transform it into a gallery in 2000.

Installations fill the five-storey Turbine Hall. Other rooms house paintings by Picasso and Rothko, and show video art.

Should video art seem a bridge too far for those Elizabethans, fear not. They should recognise the next building. Shakespeare’s Globe has shifted a few hundred yards from its original site, but it is thought to be a pretty accurate reconstruction. The first one, built in 1599, burnt down after a cannon set the thatch alight during a performance of Henry VIII. The second one, built in 1614, was demolished 30 years later to make way for houses. The modern Globe, founded by actor and director Sam Wanamaker, opened in 1997. It is timber-framed and has benches for seats, or you can be a “groundling” and stand in the yard for a good view of the action.

We head inland for our next stop – another site familiar to the Elizabethans. Sprawled beneath the railway arches near London Bridge, Borough Market has been around since 1014. The present buildings were designed in the 1800s, with an Art Deco-style entrance being added in 1932. Neal’s Yard Dairy is great for cheese, and Mrs King’s Pork Pies have been baking since 1853.

We take our cheese and pies to the river, where we find The Golden Hinde, a full-size replica of Golden Hind, the first English ship to circumnavigate the world, between 1577 and 1580, captained by Sir

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PHOTOS: © SEE LI/TONY FRENCH/JANSOS/ALAMY

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Francis Drake. The current model launched in 1973 and has been berthed here since 1996. Crew and pirates (also replicas) often ahoy from the cobbled pathways.

On the other side of the market stands Southwark Cathedral. There has been a church here since 1106, although the current structure is slightly newer – much of it was built between 1220 and 1420. Inside, a large stained-glass window dedicated to Shakespeare shows scenes from his plays. A stone in the paving on the choir lies in tribute to his brother, Edmund, who was buried here in 1607.

Our final stop is The Shard, a 95-storey glass skyscraper, designed

by Renzo Piano. At almost 310m (1,016ft), it is the tallest building in the UK. It offers the UK’s highest observation deck, The View from The Shard, and also houses offices, restaurants and the Shangri-La hotel. It’s glitzy and refined, not a bear in sight. The Elizabethans might have been surprised about that.

 For more unmissable London sights, visit www.britain-magazine.com Clockwise, from this image: A view of The Shard from Bankside; street food at Borough Market; Shakespeare's Globe; Southwark Cathedral; the Golden Hinde

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LANDMARKS

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LANDMARKS

BUCKINGHAM

PALACE

We shine the spotlight on the most splendid of all the Queen’s homes WORDS NICOLA RAYNER

T

he elegant white facade of Buckingham Palace, home to the famous balcony overlooking the Mall, is one of the world’s most recognisable sights. It’s likely, when you think of the palace, that you picture that view: the Royal Family a splash of colour against the pale backdrop, waving from the balcony at moments of national celebration or commemoration.

Though one of the palace’s most distinctive features, the balcony is a later addition by the architect Edward Blore, at the suggestion of Queen Victoria’s husband, Prince Albert.

Today, Buckingham Palace serves as both the office and London residence of Her Majesty the Queen. The palace’s 19 state rooms, used for ceremonial occasions and official entertaining – and open to visitors for ten weeks in the summer – occupy two floors in the western wing facing the gardens, while the Queen and the Duke of Edinburgh live www.britain-magazine.com

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PHOTOS: © PETER SMITH/ROYAL COLLECTION TRUST/ HER MAJESTY QUEEN ELIZABETH II 2018/EVERETT COLLECTION HISTORICAL/ALAMY

in private apartments on the north side of the building. The palace is also home to other members of the Royal Family as well as the base for some 800 staff, including a flagman, a fendersmith and a clockmaker, who, no doubt, is kept busy by the palace’s 350 clocks and watches.

One of the few remaining working royal palaces in the world, the building is, architecturally, an interesting hodgepodge bearing the stamp of successive monarchs.

Henry VIII wouldn’t recognise the site as it is today.

Before he became too heavy for riding, the king loved to hunt and in 1532 he drained the marshy area on which Buckingham Palace stands to create a deer park.

A later king, James I, grew mulberry trees where the palace gardens are now and introduced silkworms, though the project wasn’t a commercial success. More memorable was his menagerie of exotic animals, including an elephant that was served a gallon of wine each day. James’s son, Charles I, gave the garden to Lord Aston in 1628 and a large house on the site at that time passed through various hands until 1698, when it was let to John Sheffield, later the Duke of Buckingham, a haughty man who was nicknamed ‘Lord All-Pride’. Buckingham demolished the house and rebuilt in its place an opulent mansion that took his name. www.britain-magazine.com

Above: The opulent Throne Room with its theatrical canopy over the thrones Below: The Royal Family with Winston Churchill on the balcony on VE Day in 1945 Previous page: White Drawing Room

When Buckingham House was put up for sale in 1761, the young George III bought it as a private family residence for his wife, Queen Charlotte, and their children. The property became known as the Queen’s House, while St James’s Palace remained the official seat of the court.

George III was a king of simple pleasures and he toned down some of Buckingham House’s more ostentatious touches; an observer remarked that the building was “dull, dowdy but decent”. Yet it is George III who bagged the palace the finest Canaletto collection in the world, snapping it up in 1762. Unlike his father, George IV was

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LANDMARKS

THE PLANNER

PHOTOS: © KEYSTONE PICTURES USA/ALAMY

THE STATE ROOMS The palace’s state rooms are open for ten weeks in the summer, from 20 July to 29 September. www.royalcollection.org.uk

a man known for his appetites. When he became king in 1820, he reinvented Buckingham House as a grand palace, employing his favourite architect, John Nash.

Applying for £150,000 from the government for improvements, George’s budget soon spiralled out of control and by 1828 Nash had spent more than three times that amount. The opulence of the Throne Room today encapsulates the pair’s theatrical vision, but the king died before the palace’s completion and the prime minister, the Duke of Wellington, dismissed Nash for overspending.

The building only began to serve as the official London residence of British sovereigns in 1837 when the young Queen Victoria moved in. The Queen and Prince Albert enjoyed entertaining and brought the palace to life with music and dancing. Costume balls were all the rage, and dancing took place in the Throne Room, while the Picture Gallery was for ‘sitting out’.

The architect James Pennethorne added two large rooms – the Ball Supper Room and the Ballroom. The latter, the largest room in the palace, opened in 1856 with a ball to celebrate the end of the Crimean War; today it is used for state banquets and investitures.

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Above: The Queen in the Drawing Room in 1969

As for Queen Victoria, her relationship with Buckingham Palace changed dramatically when Prince Albert died in 1861. She withdrew from London and spent her time at Balmoral Castle, Osborne House and Windsor Castle.

It is at the gates of Buckingham Palace that the British people gather at times of national importance – witness the Royal Family beaming from the balcony with Winston Churchill in footage from the end of the Second World War. The palace didn’t come through the Blitz unscathed – it was hit in 1940 while the king and queen were in residence. “I’m glad we’ve been bombed,” the late Queen Mother said.

“Now I can look the East End in the face.”

While our countryside-loving Queen has always felt most at home with her horses and dogs at Balmoral, the link to her official residence in the capital is a strong one; three of her four children were born at Buckingham Palace.

Each summer, the palace opens its doors to visitors, who can explore the magnificent state rooms, including the Throne Room, used by the Queen for official entertaining, and also chosen as the setting for the wedding pictures of the Duke and Duchess of Cambridge.

The 200th anniversary of Queen Victoria’s birth this year is to be marked at the Summer Opening with a special exhibition about the young Queen, entitled Queen Victoria’s Palace. Telling the story of how the young Victoria transformed the palace from a private house into a working royal residence, the exhibition will offer a new perspective on this splendid royal home. www.britain-magazine.com

LONDON BOROUGH OF HACKNEY MARKETS

Broadway Market, London, E8 4QJ Saturdays 9am - 5pm

Broadway Market accommodates around 150 stalls each week between the hours of 9am and 5pm and is particularly well known for its artisan and handmade products. Its huge range of street food is favoured among both locals and tourists. Along with those commodities there is also a wide variety of high quality produce, baked goods, spices, clothing and more. Either side of the stalls there are many local hot-spots such as the Cat & Mutton pub and La Bouche, the bakery and café.

Facebook: Broadway Market Twitter: @broadway_mkt Instagram: @broadwaymarket

Chatsworth Road Market, London, E5 0LH Sundays, 10am - 4pm

Chatsworth Road is Hackney Council’s only Sunday market, running from 10am to 4pm. Customers can find a variety of street food, high quality fresh produce, clothing and antique goods. The street is also home to an array of independent businesses such as the community and independently funded Castle Cinema adding to its status as a true leisure destination. Historically the market was established in the 1920’s however it went into decline in the 1930’s. In 2010 a trial started to re-establish the market, and it has since seen a steady increase in trade each Sunday.

Facebook: ChatsworthRdE5 Twitter: @chatsworthroad Instagram: @chatsworthroadmarket

Hoxton Street Market, London, N1 6SH Monday –Friday 10.30am - 4pm, Saturday 10am - 4pm

Founded in 1687, Hoxton Street market combines traditional East End spirit with a modern touch. On weekdays, a small number of traders serve the local workers and residents delicious street food at lunch time and on Saturday’s from 10am until 4pm, the market now offers

a range of fashion and household goods alongside sweet treats.

The street is situated just north of Shoreditch and is home to many popular restaurants and bars such as; The Barrel Boulangerie and Monty’s Deli.

Facebook: HoxtonStMarket Twitter: @HoxtonStMarket Instagram: @HoxtonStMarket

Kingsland Market, London, E8 4AA Saturdays 9am - 5pm

For decades Kingsland Market was the place to go to for spare parts and tools needed to fix anything from bicycles to transistor radios.

It eventually became a market with an eclectic array of goods, attracting visitors from far and wide. More recently Hackney Council have relaunched Kingsland Market honouring its heritage as a market for second hand goods, antiques and curios. The new Kingsland Market is also a visitor attraction and social hub.

Facebook: Kingslandmarket Twitter: @Kingslandmarket Instgram: @Kingslandmarket

Ridley Road Market, London, E8 2NP Mon - Thur 7.30am - 6pm, Fri - Sat 7.30am - 7pm

Situated in the heart of Dalston since the 1880s, the bustling Ridley Road Market is one of London’s largest and most prominent markets trading 6 days a week all year round. Having started with just 20 stalls, it now plays an important role in Hackney’s history and cultural heritage and is best known for its colourful fruit and veg displays.

Now home to over 150 stalls offering a diverse range of goods at very competitive prices, the market operates from 7.30am to 6pm Monday to Thursday and 7.30am to 7pm on Friday and Saturday.

Facebook: RidleyRdmarket Twitter: @RidleyRd Instagram: @RidleyRoadMarket

MARKETS

Trading places

Experience London like a local with a stroll around one of the city’s most popular markets WORDS GEORGIA STEPHENS

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Columbia Road Flower Market If you’ve ever wanted to hear proper Cockney sales patter, this is the place to come. Based in Bethnal Green and set firmly in London’s East End, Columbia Road is London’s best flower market. Every Sunday from 8am, traders descend in all weathers to showcase their wares: house plants, flowers, bulbs, shrubs, herbs – you name it. Here, you’ll find trendy locals brushing aside their hangovers to nab bargain bunches of tulips, and families weaving between pot plants and perennials to browse banana plants and lemon trees.

Visit early to avoid the worst of the crowds, or late – after 2pm – to score the best deals. After this time, traders apply heavy discounts to shift their remaining stock, and it’s a good opportunity to practice your negotiation skills. When you’re finished, slip behind the stalls to window-shop Columbia Road’s vintage stores, art galleries and antique dealers, before rewarding yourself with a pansy-topped cupcake from Lily Vanilli Bakery to round off a flower-filled day. www.columbiaroad.info www.britain-magazine.com

PHOTOS: © MICKEY LEE/THEBIGLONDON.COM/VISITBRITAIN/ATLANTIDE PHOTOTRAVEL/GETTY IMAGES

Borough Market

South of the river, a gastronomic paradise lies beneath the arches of a railway viaduct.

Borough Market, beside London Bridge, is London’s oldest food market, having celebrated its millennium in 2014. The exact date of its founding isn’t actually certain, as there’s no record of any opening ceremony.

Instead, historians have gone by the account of Icelandic author Snorri Sturluson, who noted that Southwark was a “great market town” in 1014. In any case, there’s no argument that Borough has an impressive pedigree. Today, tourists and the local lunchtime crowd alike converge on Borough Market to browse its cornucopia of gourmet goodies. Check out the food stalls beside Southwark Cathedral to fill up on Scotch eggs, potato-filled dosas or hearty Ethiopian stews, or visit between Wednesday and Saturday to see the market in full swing.

During this time, a wealth of artisanal vendors springs up, selling everything from handmade chocolates and French charcuterie to truffle oils and New Forest cider. boroughmarket.org.uk www.britain-magazine.com

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MARKETS

Greenwich Market In Greenwich, you’ll find London’s only historic market set within a World Heritage site. The stalls specialise in handmade wares, ranging from African textile art to stainless steel furniture and unique wooden watches. Tuesdays and Thursdays are dedicated to antiques and collectables, while the rest of the week leans more towards arts and crafts. Don’t miss the chance to refuel afterwards with the ginger-beer-battered sea bass at Da Fish Ting, or the peculiar noodle-based burger creations at Pimp My Ramen.

Of course, a trip to Greenwich Market can easily be incorporated into a day out in the wider area. Catch a Thames Clipper service beside the London Eye for a pleasant boat ride past Shakespeare’s Globe, the Tower of London and Canary Wharf, before docking at Greenwich Pier. After visiting the market, you can check out the Royal Observatory, the home of Greenwich Mean Time, stroll round Christopher Wren’s Old Royal Naval College or take a tour of Cutty Sark, the world’s only surviving tea clipper. www.greenwichmarket.london

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PHOTOS: © 4K-CLIPS/LOOP IMAGES LTD/PAOLO PARADISO/ALAMY/JOANNA HENDERSON/VISITBRITAIN

MARKETS

Old Spitalfields Market Based in the heart of London’s East End near Liverpool Street station, Old Spitalfields is a real melting pot of a market, with everything from Nepalese wares and Turkish linens to vintage Egyptian jewellery under one glorious Victorian roof. And the food on offer – a mix of pop-up stalls and permanent restaurants – is equally diverse. You can start with an authentic Neapolitan pizza or crispy, tacostyle seaweed tempura, and finish with fluffy Taiwanese pancakes or sweet fruit tea.

There’s been a market here, in some form or other, for over 350 years; Charles I issued a licence for “flesh, fowl and roots” to be sold here in 1638. Today Spitalfields is open for business seven days a week. On Thursdays you’ll find the weekly antiques market, while the first and third Fridays of the month are dedicated to vinyl – you could easily spend an entire afternoon browsing the outstanding collection of rare and collectable records. oldspitalfieldsmarket.com

Broadway Market Based between Regent’s Canal and London Fields on an old drover’s route in the heart of Hackney, Broadway is one of London’s youngest markets, having only been relaunched by the local community in 2004.

It had been home to traders since the 1890s, but went into steep decline in the Eighties when they all but disappeared. Now it’s back, and rapidly developing a reputation as one of the capital’s trendiest markets.

Every Saturday, it hosts 135 stalls selling a mix of vintage clothes, fresh food, flowers and local art. And there’s plenty of street food too: expect to see traditional pies, mash and jellied eels alongside sweet-chilli king prawns, crab-cake burgers and cheese toasties. Keep an eye out for the legendary Yorkshire Burrito – a roast dinner wrapped in a massive Yorkshire pudding. It doesn’t get any more British than that. broadwaymarket.co.uk

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MARKETS

Portobello Road Market

PHOTOS: Š MAREMAGNUM/GETTY IMAGES/JOANNA HENDERSON/VISITBRITAIN

Stretching for 1.5 miles between Notting Hill Gate and Ladbroke Grove, Portobello Road is one of the largest antiques markets in the world, a hotspot for crocodile handbags, Victorian headpieces and vintage Rolex watches. Different sections of the market run on different days of the week, specialising in everything from fresh fruit and retro clothing to an eclectic assortment of bric-a-brac.

The antiques arcades, Portobello’s star attractions, open their doors on Saturdays, and this is the time to see the market in full swing. Make sure you arrive before 11am to maximise your elbow room. The arcades run for around half a mile from Notting Hill, before the focus shifts to food stalls, fashion and second-hand goods. Schedule a stop at one of the excellent street-food stands along the way, which offer everything from paella to Caribbean goat curry. www.portobelloroad.co.uk

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Volunteer Kensington & Chelsea Ambassadors provide information and assistance to market shoppers most Saturdays

Leighton House Museum

12 Holland Park Road, London W14 8LZ 10AM - 5:30PM; CLOSED TUESDAYS www.leightonhouse.co.uk

MUSEUMS & GALLERIES

MUSEUMS IN MINIATURE From Old Masters to ancient chess pieces, these are our not-to-be-missed items in the collections of London’s great museums WORDS NATASHA FOGES

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MUSEUMS & GALLERIES

British Museum If learning about world cultures fascinates you, make time for a leisurely few hours at the British Museum.

The Lewis Chessmen (previous page), one of its most prized exhibits, are a unique symbol of European civilisation. The chess pieces were probably made in Trondheim, Norway, around AD 1150-1200 and taken to the Western Isles, at that time belonging to Norway but now part of Scotland. The pieces bear witness to the increasing popularity of the game of chess in Europe, where it was adapted to reflect medieval society. Exquisitely carved out of walrus ivory and whales’ teeth, the dress and bearing of the figures, from stoic seated king to well-fed bishop, convey their social standing. www.britishmuseum.org

National Portrait Gallery The range of portraits at the National Portrait Gallery is exhilarating: in the space of a few rooms you can move from stiff Tudor portraits of monarchs and nobles to the relaxed poses of their modern-day equivalents.

Head for Room 2 and stand in awe before the 17th-century coronation portrait of Queen Elizabeth I (by an unknown English artist). Beneath her rubystudded crown, her red hair flows down her back, marvellously matched by the gold of her gown. The orb and sceptre – symbols of authority – held lightly in her hands and a look of steely determination on her face, the message is clear: this is a queen to be reckoned with. www.npg.org.uk

National Maritime Museum “England expects that every man will do his duty”, was Horatio Nelson’s famous signal given at the start of the Battle of Trafalgar on 21 October 1805, one of Britain’s most important naval victories. The uniform worn at the battle by Nelson exudes readiness for battle and devotion to duty. Made of blue wool in tribute to Nelson’s naval victories (navy blue was a term first coined during the Napoleonic Wars), the coat is embellished with embroidered stars – Nelson’s orders of chivalry. These are thought by some to have contributed to his death at the battle, the glint of the metal catching the eye of a French sniper.

Whatever the truth, seeing the great man’s uniform at close quarters will send a shiver down the spine of any naval history buff. Not least because the hole made by the fatal bullet can still be seen on the coat’s left shoulder. www.rmg.co.uk

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MUSEUMS & GALLERIES Clockwise from left: Queen Elizabeth I by an unknown English artist, circa 1600; the uniform worn by Nelson at the Battle of Trafalgar; Oliver Cromwell's death mask

PHOTOS: © LEWIS CHESSMAN/THE TRUSTEES OF THE BRITISH MUSEUM/NATIONAL PORTRAIT GALLERY, LONDON/ TRAVEL PIX COLLECTION/AWL IMAGES/MUSEUM OF LONDON

Opening page: The Lewis Chessmen

Museum of London The Museum of London tells the story of the capital from prehistoric times to the present day. One of its most intriguing exhibits is Oliver Cromwell’s death mask, made by applying wax to his face after death.

As Lord Protector of England from 1653 to 1658, Cromwell abolished the monarchy, lived in the royal palaces and, when he died of a malarial infection, was given a funeral fit for a king.

The face of the man who had King Charles I beheaded looks at peace, though he would have been perturbed had he known his eventual fate: after his death, with the monarchy restored, Cromwell’s head was put on a spike above Westminster Hall, where it remained for 25 years. www.museumoflondon.org.uk www.britain-magazine.com

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MUSEUMS & GALLERIES

Tate Britain Though Tate Modern tends to grab the headlines, the original Tate, in a grand building on Millbank, is packed with incredible British art and covers a broader ranger than its starrier sister gallery.

Works by Reynolds, Gainsborough, Constable and Hogarth are numerous, not to mention the world’s biggest collection of Turners, displayed on rotation in the Clore Gallery. Norham Castle, Sunrise (c. 1845)

shows off the artist’s trailblazing painting techniques, mastery of light and use of colour. Painted during Turner’s tour of northern England, it captures the castle, bordering Scotland on the River Tweed, at sunrise: sitting in a blaze of light, it seems to merge with the surrounding hills. www.tate.org.uk

PHOTOS: © TATE,/JOE HUMPHRIES/VICTORIA & ALBERT MUSEUM/THE BRITISH LIBRARY BOARD

Clockwise, from left: Turner's painting of Norham Castle; Tipu's Tiger; Shakespeare's First Folio; Hogarth's A Rake's Progress hangs in the Picture Room at Sir John Soane's Museum

Sir John Soane's Museum Son of a bricklayer, Sir John Soane (1753-1837) grew up to become a distinguished architect and an obsessive collector of art and architectural ornaments.

Before his death Soane turned his house into a museum, and it is a wonderful place: no chilly gallery spaces here, just a maze of domestic rooms beautifully adapted to show off Soane’s extraordinary collections, from Canaletto paintings to the 3,000-year-old sarcophagus of an Egyptian pharaoh, snapped up by Soane when the British Museum declined to pay the asking price. The undeniable star, though, is A Rake’s Progress, a lively series of paintings by 18th-century artist William Hogarth depicting the story of fictional man-about-town Tom Rakewell, who inherits a fortune and in the course of eight paintings manages to lose it all. www.soane.org

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MUSEUMS & GALLERIES

Victoria & Albert Museum The V&A is one of London’s best loved museums, thanks to its crowd-pleasing exhibitions and the variety of its art and design collections, which cover everything from fashion and furniture to a fine collection of paintings. The item that consistently attracts crowds of visitors, though, is not a Turner or Constable but a wooden semi-automaton from South India, on display in the South Asia gallery.

‘Tipu’s Tiger’ was made for Tipu Sultan, ruler of Mysore from 1782 to 1799, whose possessions were often marked with tiger stripes. Almost life-sized, the tiger is shown in the process of mauling a European soldier. At the turn of the handle, a cleverly concealed organ makes the man’s arm flap helplessly and produces his dying moans, mingled with the roars of his killer. Gruesome it may be, but so popular that the museum’s shop stocks Tipu’s Tiger souvenirs, from felt decorations to enamel pins. www.vam.ac.uk

British Library You could lose yourself for days in the British Library. Over 150 million items spanning 3,000 years are conserved here, from the Lindisfarne Gospels to the Magna Carta. Shakespeare fans should seek out his First Folio: the first collected edition of Shakespeare’s plays, published seven years after his death. The First Folio was collated by two of Shakespeare’s fellow actors and friends, John Heminge and Henry Condell, who divided the plays into comedies, tragedies and histories, categories that came to shape people’s ideas about Shakespeare’s canon.

The First Folio is also significant because of the portrait on the title page – one of only two portraits of Shakespeare in existence with any claim to authenticity. www.bl.uk

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MUSEUMS & GALLERIES Clockwise, from left: Hans Holbein the Younger's The Ambassadors; Rembrandt's Girl at a Window; the Horniman's mummy; this gilded Sèvres inkstand conceals a secret

National Gallery Britain’s foremost art collection was established in 1824 for the enjoyment and education of all. Still free to all comers, the gallery holds a multitude of masterpieces, from Van Gogh’s Sunflowers to Velázquez’s Rokeby Venus. One of the highlights, in Room 4, is Hans Holbein the Younger’s The Ambassadors (1533), depicting two young French diplomatic guests, Jean de Dinteville and Georges de Selve, at the court of Henry VIII, surrounded by the

trappings of educated Renaissance society: lutes, globes and astronomical instruments.

Such is the lushness of the colours and the precision of Holbein’s painting that at first glance it’s easy to miss the distorted skull in the foreground. Only properly viewable from an oblique angle, once seen it’s an unignorable reminder of human mortality. www.nationalgallery.org.uk

Wallace Collection A gem of a gallery, the Wallace Collection was started in 1900 by the Marquesses of Hertford and Sir Richard Wallace. The sumptuous rooms are hung with fine art by the likes of Titian, Gainsborough and Reynolds, and decorated with medieval armour and Sèvres porcelain.

This gilded 1759 inkstand is a wonderful example of the lush colours, intricacy and ingenuity that Sèvres was known for. The two globes would have held ink and sand (for blotting). The finishing touch? Under the crown a bell is concealed, to summon a servant to take away the written letters. www.wallacecollection.org

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MUSEUMS & GALLERIES

Dulwich Picture Gallery Britain’s first purpose-built gallery, surrounded by well-tended lawns, was designed by Sir John Soane in 1811. Despite its out-of-the-way location in East Dulwich (p67), the gallery’s collection is first-rate, with an array of Old Masters that makes it well worth the journey south of the river.

Rembrandt’s Girl at a Window (1645) shows the artist’s skill at drawing in the viewer: the unknown girl fixes you with a direct gaze and points her left hand towards herself. This blurring of the boundaries between sitter and viewer was very fashionable at the time, and the unknown identity of the girl – servant girl, biblical character or historical heroine? – adds to the intrigue. www.dulwichpicturegallery.org.uk

PHOTOS: © NATIONAL GALLERY/LONDON/DANI TAGEN/HORNIMAN MUSEUM & GARDENS

Horniman Museum

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The Horniman’s anthropological, natural history and musical instrument collections hold some fascinating pieces from around the world, such as this 21stDynasty Egyptian mummy.

In January 1896 the museum’s founder Frederick Horniman was travelling for two weeks in Egypt.

There he met Howard Carter, the archeologist famous for the excavation of Tutankhamun’s tomb.

The pair toured the temples of Luxor and Karnak, and Horniman picked up some Egyptian artefacts for his collection.

Horniman donated £100 to the Egypt Exploration Fund, which in turn gifted him this mummy from the Temple of Hatshepsut, which was shipped back to London’s leafy Forest Hill and added to Horniman’s eclectic collection. www.horniman.ac.uk

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MUSEUMS & GALLERIES

Left to right: Helen Sharman's space suit; a 1919 recruitment poster

Science Museum

In 1989, Helen Sharman answered an advertisement she’d heard on the radio: “Astronaut wanted. No experience necessary”. Intrigued, she applied for the job and was chosen for the Project Juno mission ahead of 13,000 others. Having gone through 18 months of rigorous training in Star City, Russia, she was launched into space in 1991 on an 8-day mission to the Mir Space Station, becoming the first Briton in space.

Sharman’s space suit still draws the crowds in the Exploring Space gallery. There’s plenty more to see besides: seven floors of exhibits run the gamut from the Wells Cathedral clock (1390), one of the world’s oldest clocks, which still chimes every quarter of an hour, to Pilot ACE, an early computer designed by mathematician Alan Turing in 1945. www.sciencemuseum.org.uk

Imperial War Museum

Guns, tanks and aircraft dominate the entrance atrium of the Imperial War Museum’s London site, but other galleries offer different perspectives on stories of war and conflict from the First World War to the present day. Tales of everyday family life in the Blitz are explored, and there is a harrowing exhibition dedicated to the Holocaust. Elsewhere you’ll find propaganda and recruitment posters – such as this 1919 example of two khaki-clad infantrymen strolling through a bazaar.

PHOTOS: © BOARD OF TRUSTEES SCIENCE MUSEUM/JENNIE HILLS/IWM

www.iwm.org.uk

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LOSE YOURSELF IN THE

CROWN JEWELS

Discover the treasures that united the kingdom, secured in London’s castle, the Tower of London.

Book online today to save Nearest tube Tower Hill Royal Collection Trust © 2018, Her Majesty Queen Elizabeth II

CULTURE

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CULTURE

CROWNING GLORY Royal crowns, robes and other ceremonial regalia used by monarchs have been kept at the Tower of London for more than 600 years, but do you know what should be used when?

WORDS NEIL JONES www.britain-magazine.com

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CULTURE

I

coronations, royal weddings, baptisms and formal n 1671, a slippery rogue by the name of ‘Colonel’ From left: Queen Elizabeth II in her coronation crown, events such as the State Opening of Parliament.

Thomas Blood attempted one of the cheekiest heists 1953; glittering ceremonial Sparkling with diamonds, emeralds, rubies and in history at the Tower of London. Posing as a regalia. Previous pages, from sapphires, the Crown Jewels are intrinsic to the clergyman, the smooth-talking scoundrel tricked the left: The Tower of London; enduring power and magic of royal ritual and elderly Keeper of the Crown Jewels, Talbot Edwards, the Imperial State Crown symbolism across the centuries. into letting him and two accomplices handle the Exhibits in the Jewel House explain the religious and cultural precious hoard, before attacking Edwards and making off with the significance of the royal regalia, including how they feature in Orb, Imperial State Crown and Sovereign’s Sceptre. Fortunately, the coronation ceremonies. You can also view Her Majesty’s Coronation jewels were rescued and Blood was even pardoned, possibly saved by Robes, ceremonial maces, trumpets and diverse golden treasures. the fact that, among his many sly activities, he spied for Charles II’s So how did this amazing collection of royal bling come about? government.

The concept of a coronation, by which a king was anointed with It was a narrow squeak and the Crown Jewels were never again holy oil and bestowed with royal insignia, became firmly established put on open display, but you can still bask in their beauty in the Jewel in Europe in the 7th and 8th centuries. The earliest detailed account House at the Tower, where these days they are safely kept under of such a ceremony in England, for the Anglo-Saxon King Edgar, armed guard. Boasting 23,578 gemstones, the collection is the most dates from 973 in Bath, but since 1066 all coronations have taken breathtaking and complete ensemble of royal regalia in the world, all place at Westminster Abbey. In 1216, disaster struck when King John, the more awesome because it is a working collection, still used at

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www.britain-magazine.com

DID YOU KNOW? ● In 1831, William IV was so weighed down by his coronation crown when

PHOTOS: © VISIT BRITAIN/ANDREW PICKETT/HULTON ARCHIVE/GETTY IMAGES/ ROYAL COLLECTION TRUST/ HER MAJESTY QUEEN ELIZABETH II 2015/2018

campaigning against rebel barons, misjudged the tides as he crossed The Wash to head for Lincoln and lost the crown jewels that he had taken with him for safekeeping. His nine-year-old son, who became King Henry III later that year, had to be crowned with his mother’s torque or bracelet.

Young Henry was crowned again in 1220, using a crown that was claimed to have once belonged to the 11th-century saint-king Edward the Confessor, and this became the standard for future generations until, more than 400 years later, Cromwell ordered the Coronation Regalia to be “totallie Broken and defaced” as part of Republican activities to eradicate the “detestable rule of Kings”.

Only three 17th-century swords and a 12th-century silver-gilt Coronation Spoon used to anoint the monarch with holy oil survived the destruction. So when Charles II was restored to the throne he went all out to recreate the image of a glorious monarchy and personally oversaw the remaking of the regalia for his coronation in 1661: a coronation crown and state crown (“the one named St

it was set with all its precious stones that he suffered violent toothache.

After the ceremony, he rushed back to Buckingham Palace to have the offending tooth removed. ● The world-famous Koh-i-Nûr ('Mountain of Light’ in Persian) diamond was presented to Queen Victoria in 1850, and has only been worn by queens regnant and consort due to a legend that it brings bad luck if worn by a man.

It is currently set in the Crown of Queen Elizabeth the Queen Mother (1937), the most recent queen consort’s crown. ● Following the death of Prince Albert in 1861, Queen Victoria adopted widow’s weeds and on official occasions declined to wear the Imperial State Crown with its coloured gems, so in 1870 Queen Victoria’s Small Diamond Crown, under four inches (10cm) tall and featuring hundreds of colourless diamonds, was created to fit on top of her widow’s cap.

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Discover more about the Crown Jewels at www.britainmagazine.com

PHOTOS: © HM QUEEN ELIZABETH II, 2001/KEITH DAVEY/HISTORIC ROYAL PALACES

The Imperial Mantle made for the coronation of George IV in 1821 Bottom right: Cullinan I and II diamonds

Edwards Crowne, & the other an Imperiall Crowne”), an orb, sceptre, swords, spurs, ring and bracelets. These, which at the time cost the equivalent of three warships, became the core of the new Crown Jewels, to be passed to the king’s successors (though the ring remained with Charles). The Merry Monarch also amassed a fabulous array of banqueting and church plates for the Royal Collection.

Fast-forward to 1953 and the coronation of Queen Elizabeth II at Westminster Abbey followed rituals little altered in 1,000 years, with the monarch’s oath to rule fairly and protect the Church, and her anointing with holy oil by the Archbishop of Canterbury, using the intricately engraved 12th-century Coronation Spoon. During the Investiture part of the ceremony and symbolising the chivalric nature of kingship, she was presented with medieval-style spurs, armills (bracelets) and the Sword of Offering (1820), encrusted with thousands of jewels.

While many individual ceremonial pieces have been updated over the centuries and notable jewels added, the gold Sovereign’s Orb –

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PHOTOS: © HM QUEEN ELIZABETH II, 2001/KEITH DAVEY/HISTORIC ROYAL PALACES

Clockwise, from this image: The 12th-century Coronation Spoon; Grand Punch Bowl, made for George IV; Queen Victoria's Small Diamond Crown

also presented to Her Majesty during the Investiture and symbolising the Christian world – retains many of its original gemstones from 1661 including most of the 365 rose-cut diamonds. The Sovereign’s Ring and two Sovereign’s Sceptres (1661) denoting temporal power and pastoral care for the people were presented to the Queen too, the Sovereign’s Sceptre with Cross notable for its addition in 1910 of the glittering Cullinan I diamond, the world’s largest top-quality white cut diamond.

Coronations culminate with the most sacred and important of all crowns, the solid gold St Edward’s Crown (1661) being placed on the monarch’s head. Tiring to wear (it weighs 2.23kg or nearly 5lb), it is exchanged at the end of the ceremony for the Imperial State Crown (1937), dazzling with 2,868 diamonds (including Cullinan II, the world’s second largest white cut diamond), 17 sapphires, 11 emeralds, 269 pearls and four rubies. It is this crown that Her Majesty usually wears on important occasions such as the State Opening of Parliament. www.britain-magazine.com

While the Coronation Regalia attract most attention, the Crown Jewels also include treasures ranging from 17th-century altar dishes to adornments for the banqueting table. There’s the immense Grand Punch Bowl (1829) that can hold the contents of 144 bottles of red wine (it was famously used for mulled wine to warm guests on the chilly January day in 1842 when the future King Edward VII was christened).

Of particular interest may be the silver-gilt Lily Font commissioned

by Queen Victoria and used for royal baptisms since 1841, including recently for Prince George, Princess Charlotte and Prince Louis. With the Duke and Duchess of Sussex expecting their first child in the spring, it could be called into service again soon. Look out for the ‘In Use’ labels when you visit the Jewel House at the Tower of London to know which items of this most stunning of working collections is adding lustre to yet another historic occasion. www.hrp.org.uk LONDON | 2019 GUIDE

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HERITAGE

Villages of

LONDON

We explore the capital's villages, which have long provided city dwellers with a breath of fresh air WORDS NATASHA FOGES

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HERITAGE Left: The Tapestry Room at Osterley Opposite: The Long Gallery at Ham House

SOUTH LONDON First recorded as Dilwihs in a charter in AD 967, Dulwich in southeast London is one of the capital’s oldest villages. True to its name, which means ‘the meadow where dill grows’, the area’s leafy lushness is its main draw, from the expansive Dulwich Park, where highwaymen once preyed on the local nobility, to Dulwich Wood, where Charles I liked to hunt deer.

In 1605, Edward Alleyn, a colourful theatre impresario and Queen Elizabeth I’s favourite actor, bought the Manor of Dulwich with the profits from his Bankside properties, playhouses and bear-pits.

Some years later, he obtained a royal patent to found the College of God’s Gift, a charitable foundation and school for 12 poor boys and girls, who would receive the education Alleyn felt that he, the son of a publican, had been denied. Alleyn saw to it that the pupils were well cared for, insisting on a uniform of “good cloth”; three days a week they were allowed “beere without stint”.

Another of Alleyn’s philanthropic projects, the Dulwich

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Above: Pretty Dulwich Village Below: Christ's Chapel, Dulwich Opposite page: Dulwich Picture Gallery has an impressive collection Previous page: Wildflowers in Barnes

almshouses, were built nearby, to provide shelter for those in need. Between the almshouses and the schoolroom, he built Christ’s Chapel to give thanks to God for his talent as an actor; he was buried there in 1626.

Despite its charitable origins, the College of God’s Gift brought prestige and wealth to Dulwich, and the area has long been a prosperous and privileged enclave, its leafy streets lined with vast Georgian and Victorian mansions. Dulwich College, as it became known, was PHOTOS: © WWW.JOAKIMBOREN.COM/BENJAMIN JOHN/GREG BALFOUR EVANS/ALAMY

Londoners often claim their city is made up of a series of villages. While this might be hard to believe when you’re surrounded by a maelstrom of traffic on Piccadilly Circus, pockets of tranquillity can still be found, in the charming villages that were absorbed into London’s urban sprawl in the 18th and 19th centuries.

HERITAGE

This photo: The lavish Blue Room at Hardwick Hall

PHOTO: © MATTHEW ANTROBUS/NADIA MACKENZIE/JOHN HAMMOND/ANDREAS VON EINSIEDEL/NATIONAL TRUST/

PHOTOS: © MARSHALL IKONOGRAPHY/ALAMY/ROBBIE JACK/CORBIS

Left, top to bottom: The Drawing Room; a detail of Penelope from the historic wall hanging

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rebuilt in 1866 by Charles Barry Jr (son of the architect of the Houses of Parliament) in the Italian Renaissance style. It is now an exclusive independent school, whose expansive surrounds are carpeted with playing fields.

Dulwich Picture Gallery was built by Sir John Soane in 1811 to house bequests from Alleyn, among others.

It was the world’s first purpose-built gallery, no less, predating the National Gallery by ten years. Though small, the gallery is crammed with masterpieces by Rembrandt, Rubens, Van Dyck and Gainsborough, and boasts an excellent café in the garden.

Just a few miles down the road is Blackheath, its wild and windswept heath dating back to medieval times and steeped in history. It was the gathering point for Wat Tyler’s rural rabble in the Peasants’ Revolt of 1381, and 20,000 citizens on horseback crowded onto the heath to greet a triumphant Henry V when he returned from the Battle of Agincourt in 1415.

It was here too that Henry VIII met his fourth wife, Anne of Cleves, in 1540. “She is nothing so fair as she

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HERITAGE

PHOTOS: © LAURIE NOBLE/ROY JAMES SHAKESPEARE/GETTY

Clockwise, from left: All Saints' Church, Blackheath; Blackheath Halls is a lavish concert venue; rowers along the Thames in Barnes

hath been reported,” Henry grumbled; he divorced her just six months later. These days, Blackheath is a more peaceable place, its heath frequented by dog-walkers and kite-flyers, and bordered by handsome Georgian houses and Regency villas. The aptly named Tranquil Vale, the quaint high street, is home to a florist, a butcher and a baker, as well as some good independent boutiques.

Up the road, the prestigious Blackheath Halls, built in 1895, is part of the oldest surviving purpose-built cultural complex in London. Once the venue for raucous Suffragette rallies, it is now an elegant concert venue.

Over in southwest London, nestled in a bend of the River Thames, Barnes appears in the Domesday Book as “Berne” (meaning barn, as grain was stored in the barns that once stood here). For centuries, it was a remote farming village, surrounded by land that was owned by the Dean and Chapter of St Paul’s Cathedral.

It gained prestige when, following the sealing of Magna Carta at Runnymede in 1215, Archbishop Stephen Langton stopped off at Barnes to dedicate

St Mary’s Church. Though almost destroyed by fire in 1978, a chapel of the original medieval church survives. With its ancient church, village green, cricket pitch and lanes of pastel-coloured cottages, Barnes is so convincingly rural it’s easy to forget that it’s just a few miles from the centre of London. Upholding the illusion is Barnes Pond, the village’s focal point, which is beautifully framed by weeping willows and overlooked by fine houses, including the pink-fronted Rose House, which dates back to the 17th century.

The Barnes Trail, a route marked by silver discs set into the ground, takes you past the village’s loveliest buildings, as well as the nearby stretch of river that sees the climax to the annual Oxford and Cambridge University Boat Race, watched by cheering crowds from the riverbank. From here, it’s an easy stroll to the wildlife-rich London Wetland Centre – an oasis of lakes, lagoons and gardens thick with wildflowers – where the resident otters draw the crowds at feeding time. Where better to find the countryside in the heart of the city?

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HERITAGE

NORTH LONDON In the late 17th century, London was a dangerous place to be. The Great Fire of 1666, hot on the heels of the Great Plague of 1665, were the last straw for many of the city’s noble families, who opted to flee the stench, dirt and disease in favour of the tranquility and clean air of the nearby hilltop villages to the north.

The highwaymen that once preyed on carriages heading to the hills are long gone, but the open spaces remain. Hampstead Heath, an old, rambling park, covers some 800 acres of north London with grassy meadows, shady glades and dense woodland.

Concealed behind towering trees are a trio of swimming ponds – one men’s, one women’s, one mixed.

Birds swoop overhead and weeping willows trail their branches in the ponds, in whose chilly waters hardy swimmers brave a dip even in the depths of winter.

Across the heath, the Hill Garden and Pergola is one of the capital’s hidden gems: a secret garden with a raised stone walkway that’s atmospherically overgrown with vines and exotic blooms, with views across the wild heath. Commissioned by soap magnate Lord Leverhulme in 1904 as an Italianate setting for his extravagant garden parties, it’s now a serene – and largely undiscovered – spot for Sunday strolls.

Nestled into the heath’s southwestern corner, Hampstead Village is one of London’s most picturesque neighbourhoods. For centuries, it has attracted artists and writers in search of inspiration, including the

PHOTOS: ©GREG BALFOUR EVANS/ALAMY/ARNHEL DE SERRA/©NATIONAL TRUST IMAGES/I-WEI HUANG/ALAMY/HOLLIE FERNANDO

The Hill Garden and Pergola is a hidden gem: a secret garden atmospherically overgrown with vines and exotic blooms Romantic poets Keats, Shelley and Coleridge and the artists Constable and Romney. Even today, these leafy lanes are home to many writers and artists, as well as the occasional film star.

Keats House, a handsome Regency villa, still stands on Keats Grove. The poet lived here in 1818 for 17 months, wooing the “girl next door” (literally) Fanny Brawne and proposing marriage before travelling to Italy, hoping that the warmer climate would rid him of tuberculosis. Keats was never to return: he died in Rome, unmarried, in 1821. Now a museum, the house displays original manuscripts and artefacts, including the engagement ring Keats gave to Fanny Brawne, which she wore until her death in 1865. The gardens around the house hold historic importance too: one of Keats’s most famous works, Ode to a Nightingale, was penned beneath a plum tree here.

Hampstead Village is an appealing place for a wander, its quaint lanes lined with boutiques and old-world pubs, such as the wonderful Grade II-listed Holly Bush, whose snug, low-ceilinged interior is straight out of a Dickens novel. Near the pub is Fenton House, a stately 17th-century mansion enclosed by a walled garden. The house displays collections of porcelain, musical

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HERITAGE

Clockwise, from top left: Fenton House is filled with fine furniture; the Hampstead Pergola;

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wild swimming in Hampstead Heath's ponds; Keats House is now a museum

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PHOTOS: © DAN BRIDGE/ IAN G DAGNALL/ALAMY

HERITAGE

Top: Kenwood House, which was designed

by Robert Adam This image: Kenwood's romantically overgrown cemetery

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instruments, Georgian furniture and 17th century needlework, but it’s the panoramic view from the balcony that steals the show.

More of those views can be enjoyed from Kenwood House in the heath’s northernmost corner. A neoclassical stunner remodelled by Robert Adam between 1764 and 1779, it sits surrounded by rolling landscaped lawns: a setting that was used as a backdrop to the films Notting Hill and Sense and Sensibility.

The house passed through many owners, but it is brewing magnate Edward Cecil Guinness, the 1st Earl of Iveagh, that we have to thank for Kenwood as it is today. Two years before his death in 1927, he bought the house and bequeathed it to the nation on condition the “mansion and its contents [be] preserved as a fine example of the artistic home of a gentleman of the eighteenth century”.

An artistic home that included, naturally, an impressive collection of Old Masters. Paintings by Turner, Rembrandt, Gainsborough and Vermeer line the walls, while the decor is worth a visit in itself.

Not to be missed is the Library, a show-stopping confection in sky blue and pink, with ornate cornicing and neoclassical columns framing an impressive collection of antique books.

On the eastern side of the heath is Highgate, with its air of a Georgian hilltop village, complete with grand manor houses, quaint cottages and cosy pubs. Visitors www.britain-magazine.com

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HERITAGE Left: One of Primrose Hill's colourful streets

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THE PLANNER GETTING THERE Trains run every 15 minutes from London Victoria to West Dulwich and from London Bridge to North Dulwich. For Blackheath, take a train from London Victoria (every 30 minutes), and for Barnes, there are frequent services from London Waterloo.

Hampstead and Highgate stations are on the Northern Line of the Underground. Primrose Hill is close to Chalk Farm station.

WHERE TO EAT AND DRINK The Grade II-listed Crown and Greyhound pub (www.thecrownandgreyhound.co.uk), once frequented by Charles Dickens, is a focal point of Dulwich Village. In Blackheath, the Hare and Billet (www.hareandbillet.com) does a slap-up Sunday roast. For a fine cup of tea, try Orange Pekoe (www.orangepekoeteas.com), a refined tearoom in Barnes.

In Hampstead Village, The Holly Bush (www. hollybushhampstead.co.uk) is a welcoming pub with open fires and cosy nooks. In Highgate, The Wrestlers (www.thewrestlershighgate.com) does an excellent Sunday roast. After climbing Primrose Hill, head to Greenberry Café for brunch (www.greenberrycafe.co.uk).

WHAT TO DO Dulwich Picture Gallery Despite its small size, the gallery holds more

than 600 works, including an astonishing collection of Old Masters. There are engaging temporary exhibitions, too: look out for Rembrandt's Light, on display from October to mark the artist's 350th birthday. www.dulwichpicturegallery.org.uk Blackheath Halls Blackheath Halls hosts performers both from its attached conservatoire and the international stage. www.blackheathhalls.com London Wetland Centre, Barnes The lakes and lagoons are criss-crossed by pathways that you can wander at will. Plenty of activities are organised, or you can simply sit and enjoy the view. www.wwt.org.uk Fenton House This 17th-century merchant’s house is filled with interesting small collections, from porcelain to needlework. www.nationaltrust.org.uk Kenwood House Gorgeous interiors, world-class art and rolling parkland. www.english-heritage.org.uk Highgate Cemetery Most famous of the “Magnificent Seven” group of Victorian cemeteries, Highgate Cemetery is dotted with the graves of the great and the good. www.highgatecemetery.org

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PHOTOS: © MARK MAWSON

flock to Highgate’s Victorian Grade I-listed cemetery, a wildly atmospheric spot with Gothic tombs entangled in woodland foliage. The western side holds some impressive architecture, such as the Egyptian Avenue, Terrace Catacombs and Circle of Lebanon, while the graves of the cemetery’s most famous residents lie on the eastern side, including that of philosopher Karl Marx, novelist George Eliot and artist Patrick Caulfield.

Some three miles south, Primrose Hill was once part of Henry VIII’s hunting grounds, an area of hilly woodland prowled by wolves, and for centuries a shady site of duels and illicit dealings. Later, it became a swathe of meadowland carpeted with primroses.

In 1842 an Act of Parliament secured the land for the citizens of London, providing much-needed open space for the city’s poor, while the arrival of the railway saw rapid gentrification and the building of fine houses with large gardens.

Today, Primrose Hill is one of London’s most charming and sought-after neighbourhoods, its houses painted in cheerful pastel colours and its high street full of gourmet food shops, bustling cafés and independent boutiques.

At the summit of the hill itself, a steepish climb, you’re rewarded for your efforts with the best view of London, which is officially protected: the trees are not allowed to exceed a certain height, so as not to encroach upon the breathtaking panorama. This lofty vantage point is a favourite spot among Londoners to watch the sun rise and set, a practice that has roots in ancient times as druids are thought to have worshipped here.

On the summit, an inscription by poet William Blake – a one-time resident of nearby Fitzroy Road – reads, “I have conversed with the spiritual sun. I saw him on Primrose Hill.” A magical place indeed.

CLAPHAM’S MICHELIN STARS This year’s Michelin Guide Awards took place in October and it was a great success for two Clapham restaurants.

Chef Adam Byatt at Trinity Restaurant retained his Michelin Star, which was first awarded in 2016.

The Michelin Guide listing describes Trinity as ‘a bright, warmly run neighbourhood restaurant.

Adam Byatt’s cooking focuses on prime ingredients and classic flavour combinations.’ Adam says “when we started out back in 2006, our mission was to serve great food. It had to be seasonal, inspirational and delicious.

I’m proud to have retained our Michelin star and huge congratulations to my team who make this happen every day.” The Michelin Guide created a further award category called ‘Bib Gourmand,’ an accolade that recognises exceptionally good food at more moderate prices.

In 2019, Trinity’s sister restaurant, Upstairs at Trinity retained its Bib Gourmand award. The inspectors said, ‘Upstairs at Trinity is all about sharing the visually appealing, flavoursome and reasonably priced plates, which bring a hint of the Mediterranean with them.’

New Italian Restaurant Sorella was also awarded its first Bib Gourmand. Sorella is run by Robin Gill, the chef behind Clapham favourites The Dairy and Counter Culture. The Michelin inspectors said, ‘The cooking found in Italy’s Amalfi region inspired this ‘sister’ to The Dairy. Expect a great buzz, fair prices and enthusiastic service.’

Robin said “This is a huge achievement for the whole team. Congratulations should go to our Head Chef Dean Parker and Manager Meri Farre Gomez, who maintain consistently high standards on a daily basis.”

In 2015 Londoners voted Clapham as the most desirable place to live and it’s no wonder why A-listers such as Vivienne Westwood and Margot Robbie have lived in this buzzing and eclectic neighbourhood.

There’s a whole host of pubs, bars and restaurants, whether you’re after a leisurely brunch, cheap eats or in need of a Michelin Star experience, Clapham restaurants offer something for everyone.

The area’s nightlife scene is impressive too, with a plethora of bars and pubs, plus the occasional club to keep the party going into the early hours.

If that’s not enough, there are plenty of things to see and do. Clapham Common is one of the largest green spaces in London which becomes a haven for fashionable Londonistas in the summer months.

In the hustle and bustle it is easy to forget the area’s incredible heritage, English novelist Graham Greene lived in Clapham and based his book the ‘End of the Affair’ on the neighbourhood. His house in Clapham is commemorated by a blue plaque.

There are seven blue plaques in honour of various famous Claphamites including William Wilberforce, who successfully campaigned to abolish the slave trade from Trinity Church on Clapham Common. Other famous residents include Founding Father of the United States Benjamin Franklin and Japanese novelist Natsume Soseki.

For more information visit www.thisisclapham.co.uk/visit

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tour of Edinburgh Castle, followed by a 3-course dinner at Merchants in the old town.

Blenheim Palace Now it’s time to escape to the countryside to visit one of Britain’s finest stately homes and the birthplace of Winston Churchill: Blenheim Palace. Our winner and guest will enjoy a one-night stay with breakfast nearby at The Killingworth Castle, a charming 17th-century www.britain-magazine.com

PHOTOS: © OLIMIPIO FANTUZ/4 CORNERS IMAGES/RASHMI GILL/WWW.VIVIDCLICKS.COM KARINA LAX/VRX STUDIOS/VISIT ENGLAND/BLENHEIM PALACE

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One-night stay for two at The Killingworth Castle, a charming 17th-century inn near Blenheim Palace. Includes breakfast. www.thekillingworthcastle.com

Entry for two to Edinburgh Castle and dinner for two at Merchants from Buyagift, the UK’s leading provider of experience days. www.buyagift.co.uk

One-night stay for two including breakfast and afternoon tea with fizz at the Radisson Blu Edinburgh. www.radissonblu.com

ENTRY FORM SEND YOUR COUPON TO: US readers – Great British Holiday Competition 2019, BRITAIN, C/O NPS Media Group, 2 Corporate Drive, Suite 945, Shelton, CT 06484 UK and ROW – Great British Holiday Competition 2019, BRITAIN, Jubilee House, 2 Jubilee Place, London, SW3 3TQ , UK

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AFTERNOON TEA

TEA TIME

Steeped in history, culture and top-class gastronomy, London is the perfect place to indulge in a traditional afternoon tea WORDS REBECCA HALLETT

T

here’s nothing as British as a good cup of tea. Except, perhaps, a good pot of tea, served with plenty of sandwiches and pastries.

Though a high-society icon, afternoon tea has surprisingly practical – but still aristocratic – origins, allegedly invented in the 1840s when the Duchess of Bedford found herself peckish between lunch and dinner. Over 150 years later, it retains the key elements – sandwiches, scones with clotted cream and jam, cakes – but has been elevated to an art form. In London alone, you’ll find a huge number of hotels and restaurants offering traditional and not-so-traditional variations, some so popular that they’re booked up months in advance.

With some mental acrobatics, you can justify even the most lavish afternoon tea as a money-saving measure: it’s usually so ample you’ll need neither lunch nor dinner, and in some places your plates are replenished throughout and you can take leftovers away with you.

You may find yourself concerned about the etiquette, but it’s not as imposing as it might look. Beyond checking if there’s a dress code, you can just focus on enjoying yourself – attentive service is part of the traditional afternoon tea experience, so staff will be more than happy to suggest teas and answer any questions.

Over the next few pages, we’ve picked some of our favourite afternoon tea venues in London, from the classic elegance of Claridge’s to the artistic flair of sketch. Dietary restrictions can be catered for at all of them; just enquire when you make a booking.

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Swan, Shakespeare’s Globe Swan offers one of London’s more reasonably priced afternoon teas, and it comes with Thames views and Shakespeare references – it’s right next to the Globe theatre, after all.

The tea is themed around A Midsummer Night’s Dream, served on bespoke crockery decorated with scenes from the play, and with food inspired by ingredients mentioned in the text, right down to the mulberries in the scones. You can even add a “love potion” (gin, prosecco, honey and blackberries) to your meal – hopefully it won’t make you fall for an ass.

If you don’t want to run the risk, you could opt for the Gentleman’s Tea instead, which focuses on savoury dishes like cheese scones and Scotch eggs, and can be served with a tankard of ale.

21 New Globe Walk, Bankside www.swanlondon.co.uk www.britain-magazine.com

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AFTERNOON TEA

Claridge’s With its sumptuous Art Deco interiors, Claridge’s is the place to go for a chic afternoon tea. The attention to detail is what elevates it, from the bespoke crockery (using Claridge’s signature jade green) to the cake stand which sits beside your table rather than on it, so as not to crowd you. The service is also possibly the best in London.

Claridge’s adds a seasonal savoury dish alongside the sandwiches, and switches up its delectable pastries frequently – there’s always one fruity option, one chocolate, one British classic, and one surprise. The tea menu is extensive, with background for each tea, and includes some genuinely rare blends; the Malawi Antler tea, for instance, is only served in two places in the world.

Brook Street, Mayfair www.claridges.co.uk

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AFTERNOON TEA

sketch The artsy afternoon tea at sketch is served in the Gallery, a high-ceilinged room lined with darkly comic drawings by David Shrigley. One of the joys of eating here is seeing your fellow diners stopping as soon as they enter to gape at the pink-toned wonderland they’ve walked into. But the rosy palette isn’t overwhelming, offset as it is by the room’s airy size, angular

floor tiles and pared-back artwork. The tea itself matches its surroundings, served on crockery with Shrigley designs, and featuring intriguing, artistic pastries alongside the more traditional treats. You can also have a mocktail with your afternoon tea here, an option which very few other places offer.

9 Conduit Street, Mayfair. sketch.london

Afternoon tea has been a fixture at The Savoy since it opened in 1889. It’s as decadent today as in the 19th century, held under the glittering glass dome of the Thames Foyer. Covered up since the Second World War, the dome was only revealed during the hotel’s £220 million renovation a few years ago.

Along with the requisite finger sandwiches, scones and pastries – traditional, and impeccably done – The Savoy boasts over thirty teas. You have several different menus to choose from, too, including a classic afternoon tea, a children’s option and high tea (a slightly larger version, usually with a hot dish).

If you’re going to splash out on a Champagne afternoon tea, this is the place to do it – in one of London’s most iconic hotels, accompanied by a live pianist, as an attentive waiter asks if you’d like some more cucumber sandwiches. Afternoon tea perfection.

Strand, Covent Garden. www.thesavoylondon.com

PHOTOS: © ED REEVE

PHOTOS: © DUKE'S HOTEL/ KIM LIGHTBODY

The Savoy

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AFTERNOON TEA

Fortnum & Mason Founded in 1707, Fortnum & Mason is a good 130 years older than afternoon tea, and it’s also the official grocer to the royal household. Little surprise, then, that the Diamond Jubilee Tea Salon is a very fancy affair, with live piano music, waistcoated waiters, gold fittings and lashings of the store’s trademark eau de nil colour. But it’s also surprisingly welcoming, with friendly and knowledgeable staff.

You can start your meal with a tasting experience, in which the tea sommelier helps you select four options from the unparalleled tea menu, then brings

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them in small cups to sample with a soup spoon, explaining what you’re tasting. After that, you can opt for a classic afternoon tea – the scones come with very generous jars of jam and lemon curd – or try one of their many other options, including savoury, vegan and gluten-free.

Your plate will be refilled as often as you’d like, but save room for the pièce de résistance: the famous Fornum’s cake carriage, from which you select slices of full-sized cakes to go with the dainty pastries.

181 Piccadilly, St James’s www.fortnumandmason.com www.britain-magazine.com

PHOTOS: © DOMINIC JAMES

AFTERNOON TEA

The Lanesborough This luxury hotel’s afternoon tea sets itself apart in two ways. Firstly, you can choose between two very different venues. The main area for taking tea is Céleste, an opulent Venetian-style room with a domed glass ceiling and dramatic chandeliers. The Withdrawing Room, by contrast, is a smaller, warmer space with heavy gold curtains, indulgently squishy sofas and trompe l’oeil details.

The second distinguishing factor is their attentiveness to dietary requirements – the scones are famously good, and it’s clear that just as much attention has been lavished on the gluten-free version. Whatever you choose, you’ll get a generous number of sandwiches, plenty of excellent scones, and a good mix of light pastries and satisfyingly rich cakes, all served in the most sumptuous surroundings.

Hyde Park Corner, Knightsbridge www.oetkercollection.com www.britain-magazine.com

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A newcomer to the London afternoon tea scene, this cocktail bar plays to its strengths: inventive alcoholic concoctions and slightly bonkers decor themed around the adventures of Jules Verne’s Victorian explorer, Phileas Fogg.

Once you’re seated – perhaps in a Liberty-print armchair by a taxidermied badger, or maybe in a wood-panelled train carriage – you can enjoy a welcome drink, a brief talk about the origins of alcohol around the world, and samples of some of the tea cocktails on offer. The food has a global touch too – from salmon bagels to Victoria sponges – but the drinks are the stars. Perhaps you’ll enjoy the Africa option (rooibos, vodka, bitters, martini), or maybe South America (spiced tea, rum and citrus) or Europe (Earl Grey, vodka, honey and Champagne). Your chosen drink will arrive in a teapot or thermos – and packs more of a punch than your average cuppa.

1a Bedford Street, Covent Garden www.mr-foggs.com

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PHOTOS: © JOHNNY STEPHENS PHOTOGRAPHY

Mr Fogg’s Society of Exploration

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Many guides offer collections from local train stations, your hotel or even from the airport – let them take the strain out of your Cotswold adventure, giving you time to sit back and relax.

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INSIDER’S LONDON

SECRETS OF A CONCIERGE

A hotel concierge may not know everything you ask them, but they’ll know how to find out. John Andrews, Head Concierge at The Goring, lets us in on a few secrets WORDS ZARA GASPAR

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INSIDER’S LONDON Why do people use a concierge?

My role is to make the impossible possible!

This is just par for the course as Head Concierge at The Goring and all in a day’s work. Our guests use our services because they know they will be extremely well guided and provided with everything they need to get the most out of their visit to London.

How did you become a concierge?

It’s been Five Star all the way for me! I left school in 1988 and my first job was Pageboy and Messenger at The Churchill Hotel before being promoted to Luggage Porter. In 1990 I was appointed Junior Concierge at The Berkeley where I finished up as a fully qualified Concierge. I then moved to The Lanesborough and was finally awarded my Keys, making me an official member of the Clefs d’Or (Golden Keys Society). In 2005 I was promoted to Assistant Head Concierge, a position I held for three years. The Goring made my dream come true when they offered me the position of Head Concierge.

How do you keep on top of what there is to do in this diverse city?

After 30 years of working at some of the finest London hotels I have built up quite a book of contacts. It is these contacts that provide just about anything and everything for our guests. My satisfaction and delight comes from a happy guest returning to The Goring again and again, and many do. The only way to keep on top of what’s going on in London is to get out there; keep exploring, keep learning and simply experience everything yourself.

What's the strangest request you’ve had?

Something that really sticks out in my mind is an American guest who confessed to being obsessed with cats and wanted to do something whilst in London to feed her feline obsession. After some thought and an awful lot of investigating, I found something – a story about a bus driver who nicknamed a white cat ‘Macavity’ (after the mystery cat in T.S Eliot’s poem) when it started using the No. 331 bus at 8.30am several days a week.

After making numerous enquiries, I finally spoke to someone at the local bus depot and was told that the story was indeed true. As soon as the guest heard the news she shrilled with delight and insisted I arrange a chauffeur transfer every morning at 5am to take her to Walsall to wait for the cat. On the third day, after investing quite a bit in travel, her wish came true… she finally managed to travel on the number 331 bus with Macavity the Cat. Job done! One very happy guest!

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What do guests generally want to know about London and what do you tell them?

Our guests tend to only want to go to the best shows, exceptional restaurants and shops, and experience everything that is the finest. I spend time finding out what their interests are and I then recommend or curate a day-by-day itinerary for them.

Do you have any secret locations or tips?

Located on the edge of Hampstead Heath surrounded by tranquil landscaped gardens, Kenwood House really is one of London’s hidden gems. The breathtaking interiors and stunning world-class art collection are truly a sight to behold. Take a stroll through the 112 acres of glorious parkland, exploring the ancient woodland, beautiful sculptures and sham bridge. From there, visit the picturesque Hampstead Village renowned for its intellectual, liberal, artistic, musical and literary associations. www.britain-magazine.com

PHOTOS: © DAVID COTSWORTH/ALAN COPSON/AWL/GREG BALFOUR EVANS/ALAMY

INSIDER’S LONDON

What are your favourite things to do in the city?

Take a riverside scenic walk past key London attractions such as the fairy-tale Tower Bridge and Shakespeare’s Globe Theatre. Visit Borough Market, London’s most renowned food market, and sample exceptional British produce. Walk along the Thames for unforgettable views of London and marvel at iconic skyscrapers such as the Shard.

What’s the most romantic spot in the city?

Head to Richmond Park on a clear sunny day, take a picnic with a bottle of chilled Champagne and enjoy a view from the furthest point in the west, all the way east to St Paul’s Cathedral. There is a clearing in the trees which offers the most incredible view of the cathedral.

Where can you get the best meal?

The Goring’s Michelin-starred Dining Room of course! Our Chef Shay Cooper creates www.britain-magazine.com

incredible award-winning classic British dishes with a contemporary influence.

What should tourists avoid?

Rush hour!

Clockwise from top left: The Goring; Tower Bridge is a London must-see; Hampstead village is perfect for a picturesque stroll; great staff make a difference at this luxury hotel; a romantic view of St Paul's

Is there anything surprising you can tell us about staying at The Goring?

This is the last remaining privately-owned, family-run, luxury five-star hotel which has stood for almost 110 years in the heart of Belgravia. The hotel is impeccably English and champions everything British. The Goring has recently undergone a top to toe renovation. At The Goring we have all that you would expect in a luxury hotel but what really makes the difference is the great staff, many of whom have been at the hotel for many years.

What’s your best piece of advice for guests?

Always use your hotel concierge!

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Fortnum & Mason, purveyor of luxury foodstuffs, is famed for its Christmas hampers

HISTORIC SHOPS OF ST JAMES’S Dating back to the 1660s, this bustling enclave is home to London’s oldest shops, selling everything from bowler hats to artisan cheeses WORDS ADAM JACOT DE BOINOD

I

f you’re ever in London and find yourself in need of a walking cane, bowler hat or a case of claret, head to St James’s. This distinctive neighbourhood of central London, home to some of the city’s finest old shops, has a history dating back centuries.

In the early 1660s, one Henry Jermyn, 1st Earl of St Albans, was granted land from Charles II, with which he developed an aristocratic residential area. St James’s Square, lined with fine houses, was the centre of the district, with King Street, Charles II Street and Duke of York Street leading off from it.

In the 19th century, St James’s became associated with www.britain-magazine.com

gentlemen’s clubs – Brooks’s, Boodle’s and White’s being the best known for the landed gentry. This small neighbourhood had everything required for gentlemen to be gentlemen, from fine wine and fine art to tailored suits and cigars.

At 6 St James’s Street is Lock & Co, a hat shop since 1676 – the oldest in the world and still family-run.

Robert Davis opened the shop and James Lock then became the apprentice to Robert’s son Charles. In 1765 the Locks moved to their current location and have attended to many men of note, including Lord Nelson – who called in before the Battle of Trafalgar to pay a bill LONDON | 2019 GUIDE

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for his signature bicorne hat with built-in eyeshade – and Arthur Wellesley, 1st Duke of Wellington, who ordered the plumed hat he wore at Waterloo. They even designed the fitments for the Queen’s coronation crown. Lock also sold the first ever bowler hat, though they’re not known as bowlers here; shop staff insist that they are called ‘cokes’ after the Norfolk nobleman who first commissioned them for his gamekeepers.

Close by at No 3 is the wine emporium Berry Bros. & Rudd, an eighth-generation family firm in marvellous wood-panelled premises. Customers have included Lord Byron, the dandy Beau Brummell, George IV, King Louis-Philippe of France and Napoleon III. The company was set up by a woman called Bourne in 1698 opposite St James’s Palace, which had just become the main residence of the monarch. In 1787 the first George Berry was born. Aged sixteen, he joined his grandfather’s business, which went from strength to strength. Over three centuries later, the family firm holds two Royal Warrants, indicating goods supplied to a member of the royal family, in this case the Queen and the Prince of Wales, the latter until recently living rather handily across the street.

Above: The wood-panelled premises of Berry Bros & Rudd date from 1698 This picture: Lock & Co, the oldest hat makers in the world

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This small neighbourhood had everything required for gentlemen to be gentlemen, from fine wine and fine art to suits and cigars www.britain-magazine.com

PHOTOS: © AGE FOTOSTOCK/ALAMY/ALAN COPSON/AWL IMAGES

BRANDS

BRANDS

This picture: Tempting choices at cheesemonger Paxton & Whitfield Below: The Piccadilly Arcade offers a luxury shopping experience

PHOTOS: Š NATIONAL TRUST IMAGES/ANDREW BUTLER

Nearby at 89 Jermyn Street is Floris, named after Juan Famenias Floris. Originally hailing from Menorca, he first set up shop as a barber and then as a perfumer in 1730.

Particularly of note are the beautiful original display cases that line the walls, which were purchased at the Great Exhibition of 1851.

A few steps away, at No 93, is Paxton & Whitfield, the well-known Suffolk cheesemonger and provisions merchant, which moved to these premises in 1797. Its traditional cheese and wine hampers are in high demand at Christmastime.

Jermyn Street is still the main destination for gentlemen to buy their shirts; chief among the shirt-makers is Turnbull & Asser at No 71, which was set up in 1885 by hosier Reginald Turnbull and salesman Ernest Asser.

During the First World War, the company developed a raincoat that doubled as a sleeping bag for the British army; these days it makes crisply tailored shirts for a rather distinguished list of customers, including the Prince of Wales.

An equally traditional fixture of the area is Swaine Adeney Brigg at No 7 Piccadilly Arcade, which has been trading since 1750 and offers a stylish, old-fashioned blend of craftsmanship, restoration and personalising of goods ranging from leather Papworth luggage to natty Herbert Johnson hats.

Round the corner at no. 187 Piccadilly is Hatchards.

Britain’s oldest bookshop, it has been trading since 1797,

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BRANDS when it was founded by the eponymous Mr Hatchard, whose portrait can still be seen on the staircase. It offers five floors of books and holds three Royal Warrants.

Of all the historic shops of St James’s, the best known is Fortnum & Mason at No 181 Piccadilly. In 1707, William Fortnum, a footman to Queen Anne, was given the job of refilling the royal candlelabra. Ingeniously, he came up with the idea of selling the part-used candles to the Queen’s ladies, making a modest profit.

After leaving St James’s Palace, Fortnum went into partnership with friend and landlord Hugh Mason selling ‘hartshorn, gableworm seed, saffron and dirty white candy’.

Fast forward three centuries and Fortnum & Mason is now the purveyor of luxury foodstuffs, from biscuits to preserves, not to mention the ultimate Christmas hampers.

Every hour, a crowd gathers to await the emergence of the figures on the great clock above the front door, and to hear the Eton Boating Song being played.

Traditions live on in this little enclave of old-fashioned London shopping, and there’s clearly a reason why some things stand the test of time. What’s so appealing is the sense of a former world, of services and goods tailored to the gentleman at leisure: books and riding whips, saffron and cheese. Not to mention a good hat and some fine wine.

And it always helps to have royalty popping across the street to give their seal of approval.

PHOTOS: © NEIL SETCHFIELD/MATT PRINCE/ALAMY

 For more on London shopping, visit www.britain-magazine.com

Every hour, a crowd gathers to await the emergence of the figures on the great clock above Fortnum’s front door

Above: The Fortnum & Mason's clock This picture: Hatchards has occupied the same site since Georgian times

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SHOPS

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SHOPS

Top of the SHOPS

London's quirky and characterful independent shops are a joy to browse WORDS KIRSTIN WORDS KIRSTIN VON GLASOW VON GLASOW

PHOTO: © JASON INGRAM

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www.britain-magazine.com

ike all big cities, London has a large turnover: many shops close and open every year, but in hardly any other metropolis will you find an equally high percentage of traditional family businesses that have existed for hundred years and more – from boot and hat makers to pie & mash shops, and from producers of buttonholes to bell foundries.

Although London is one of the most important financial capitals in the world, Londoners are traditional at heart. They love to go to the same shops again and again. They also love all things old. Vintage shops, from fashion and antique furniture to architectural antiques, play an important role in English culture. Innovative businesses, which sell new products or find new ways of distributing their goods, add their spice to the dish that is the independent shop scene. It is London’s ability to constantly reinvent itself while retaining a respect for tradition and continuity that makes it such an exciting city both to visit and to live in.

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SHOPS

Labour and Wait Pentreath & Hall

Benjamin Pollock’s Toyshop

The first things you notice upon entering Pentreath & Hall (previous page) are the beautiful white plaster casts. There is also a fireplace, a dresser with a lovely collection of crockery, and a colourful armchair that invites you to sit down, read a book or simply look at the nice things that are displayed throughout the shop.

For example, there are the lovely plaster casts made by master plaster caster Peter Hone, mostly reproductions from 18thcentury casts. Pentreath & Hall also stock prints of 20th-century artists such as Eric Ravilious, beautiful stationery, and colourful resin lamps by Marianna Kennedy. The shop is a wild mixture of everything founders Ben Pentreath and Bridie Hall love – which is precisely why it feels just like the perfect living room.

17 Rugby St, Bloomsbury www.pentreath-hall.com

Narrow stairs in Covent Garden Market lead up to Benjamin Pollock’s Toyshop, which sells paper toy theatres and other traditional toys. These miniature stages go back to the Regency era. After seeing a play at the theatre, you could buy it as a paper model, which you could either paint yourself or buy hand-painted or printed.

Later it often came in the form of a book, out of which the different parts were cut out and put together. Voilà – a private little theatre all of your own.

Over time this function was lost and theatres became children’s toys, but their fascination is still there. A Spanish theatre, a Victorian model or a tiny stage in a matchbox: a lot of the models can be put together in just half an hour. Others need a bit more time and patience. Go ahead, you’re the director: create your own play with paper.

44 The Market, Covent Garden www.pollocks-coventgarden.co.uk

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Anyone who has not gone into raptures over household goods has never been to Labour and Wait. The shop doesn’t stock decorative items: everything here has a purpose. For owners Rachel Wythe-Moran and Simon Watkins, beauty and functionality go hand in hand; they sell both classics and future classics. Many customers come to the shop and immediately remember the round Duralex glasses they had in school. The Sussex trug dates back to the 1500s and customers might have seen them dangling on their grandmother’s arm while she harvested fruit or picked flowers. The lovely Welsh tapestry blankets are a mixture of old and new, inspired by old patterns but newly designed.

Several items are manufactured exclusively for the shop, such as the screwdriver made by a cabinet maker who couldn’t find the right tool, or the apron originally designed in-house for the shop’s staff. It became so popular that they now sell different versions of it.

85 Redchurch St, Shoreditch

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SHOPS

Persephone Books

D. R. Harris How did the 18th- or 19th-century gentleman freshen up? At that time, not even the rich bathed on a daily basis. A gentleman would thus attempt to avoid unpleasant smells by using perfumes or colognes distributed generously all over his body. Citrusy colognes fragranced with oranges and lemons were best suited to mask pungent body odours.

Harris’s Apothecary, founded by Daniel Rotely (D. R.) and Henry Harris in 1790, quickly gained a reputation among the gentry for its colognes and perfumes. Its location in St. James’s was convenient for serving customers from gentlemen’s clubs.

Still owned by the Harris family and operating from its historic St. James’s premises with its beautiful original interiors and the fragrance of oranges and lemons, the business has successfully blended tradition and innovation for the last two centuries. Today it sells soaps, perfumes and colognes, as well as skincare and shaving products, and holds two royal warrants.

29 St James’s St, St James’s www.drharris.co.uk

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Michael German Antiques Arms and armour, walking canes or maritime works of art; what is your collecting field?

Even if you don’t collect any of these things at present, you will probably change your mind after seeing all the interesting and unusual pieces in Michael German Antiques: beautiful crafted objects made by whalers when they were at sea; antique guns, swords and medieval armour; and walking canes, from a cane carried by Ralph Fiennes as Charles Dickens to a braying donkey cane.

The shop’s founder Michael German has been in the antiques trade for a long time, finally moving to Kensington Church Street in 1982. The shop is a collector’s Mecca that rarely advertises but will be found nevertheless by the discerning collector.

In the shop you will find canes from around 1860 to 1910. In the Victorian era canes were not used to aid walking; they were a dress accessory for ladies and gentlemen alike. For every new outfit you had to have a matching cane: an evening model refined with jewels or gold, an everyday one, and at the weekend a cane with a folk-art handle. A pity that we no longer walk with such elegant canes today – but at least you can collect them.

38B Kensington Church St, Kensington antiquecanes.com

Lamb’s Conduit Street in Bloomsbury has become known over the last few years as a hub for avant-garde men’s fashion. In the midst of this masculine cutting-edge-ness, Persephone Books is an island of dove-grey old-fashioned femininity, a sort of antidote to men’s fashion. It prints and sells books by forgotten or neglected mid-20th-century (mostly) female authors.

The first thing you notice about the shop is that everything is grey. The shop front is grey and when you cross the threshold, you will see that all of the books are grey too. They all have the same distinctive dove-grey jacket and cream label, but when you open them, the end-papers are all different and feature beautiful colours and patterns. They match the mood and date of the book in question and are sourced from fabrics of the time.

Persephone Books now has 130 titles in print.

Whatever your preferences, from poetry or ghost stories to diaries and cookery books, you’ll find something of interest.

What dove-grey secrets would you like to unravel next?

59 Lamb’s Conduit St, Bloomsbury www.persephonebooks.co.uk This feature is an edited extract from 111 Shops in London That You Shouldn't Miss by Kirstin von Glasow (£11.99, Emons Publishers).

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The OYAL ALBERT HALL

Prince Albert’s huge domed red-brick amphitheatre is the city’s most atmospheric concert venue and the site of the raucous annual Proms WORDS NATASHA FOGES

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O

n 20 May 1867, Queen Victoria, dressed Clockwise, from above: Queen Victoria entirely in black, laid the foundation stone of arrives in a coach what was to become the Royal Albert Hall. to open the Royal The ceremony took place in a vast marquee Albert Hall in 1871; packed with 10,000 people, jostling for a glimpse of the the Hall sits behind the magnificent Queen, who had rarely been seen in public since her Albert Memorial in beloved husband’s untimely death a decade earlier.

Kensington; the Last Reports of the event said the Queen spoke ‘indistinctly, Night of the Proms slowly and with great emotional strain’. Using a golden trowel, she planted the stone and announced that the Opening page: the Royal Albert Hall building was to be known as the Royal Albert Hall of Arts has hosted more and Sciences, a change from the planned name, in memory than 30,000 events of her husband.

At the official opening of the building four years later, the Queen was so overcome with emotion that she could not speak; her son, the Prince of Wales, had to provide the welcome speech in her place.

The Royal Albert Hall was an almost unbearably poignant reminder of the Queen’s beloved ‘Bertie’. The building represented the fulfilment of Prince Albert’s vision: inspired by the Great Exhibition of 1851, he had planned to create a permanent series of structures that would promote an understanding and appreciation of the Arts and Sciences, an idea that was to be realised in an area of South Kensington known as Albertopolis. Sadly, Price Albert died of typhoid before seeing his dream of a cultural quarter become reality.

The Royal Albert Hall was built by Henry Cole, the Prince’s collaborator on the Great Exhibition, and this vast red-brick behemoth – encircled by an ornate 800-foot-long mosaic frieze depicting ‘The Triumph of Arts and Sciences’ – was a hit with Londoners, becoming one of the capital’s most treasured landmarks.

Inside, the Hall is magnificent from every angle.

Inspired by Roman amphitheatres, it was For more designed to accommodate 30,000 people, reduced to 7,000 for financial reasons; modern atmospheric fire regulations limit the number to 5,500.

London sights The vast auditorium – some 185 feet wide visit www.britainby 219 feet long and topped with a glass and magazine.com wrought-iron dome – was plagued by a troublesome echo from the outset. A common joke among concertgoers was that the Hall was

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the only place where a British composer could be sure of hearing their work twice.

The problem was finally resolved in the late 1960s, when the Hall’s distinctive acoustic discs, nicknamed ‘mushrooms’, were installed in the dome, no doubt improving the sound of the Hall’s magnificent organ – known as the ‘Voice of Jupiter’ – no end.

The Hall has hosted more than 30,000 events during its history. Echo notwithstanding, few buildings were so well equipped for spectacle on a grand scale, and the Hall was the ideal venue for lavish, visually spectacular balls.

For one such event, the Shakespeare Memorial Ball, which took place two days before the Coronation of King George V in June 1911, architect Edward Lutyens recreated an idyllic vision of a Tudor garden for the costumed guests, a mix of socialites and royals in town for the Coronation.

The Hall’s tiers were transformed with vine-draped stone columns, and the Circle became a sloping lawn complete with groves of trees. A blue fabric ‘sky’ stretched across the dome, illuminated to mimic a summer’s day.

Modern-day spectacles are no less ambitious: below the arena floor lie two 4000-gallon water tanks, used for shows such as Madama Butterfly that call for the arena to be flooded.

Though the Hall has hosted all manner of events, from boxing matches to Suffragette rallies, and even a full-length circular marathon, it is best known for its classical music concerts. Walk by the Royal Albert Hall on a summer’s evening and you may well be caught up in a whirl of excited concertgoers on their way to a Prom. As much a part of the English summer as strawberries and cream, the annual Proms are an eight-week series of classical concerts that are watched by millions around the globe.

The term ‘Prom’, short for ‘promenade concert’, arose from the practice of strolling around while the orchestra was playing. Die-hard ‘Prommers’ still prefer to stand in the arena, where they are free to indulge in the ‘Prommers’ stamp’ – the noisier equivalent of a standing ovation.

Eight weeks of concerts culminate in the raucous party that is the Last Night, when a misty-eyed, flag-waving audience attempts to raise the roof of the Hall with rousing patriotic singalongs.

Welcoming all comers, and with a hugely varied programme that mixes long-forgotten works with a more familiar repertoire, the Proms are true to Prince Albert’s original vision of an artistic space open to all.

As for the foundation stone that was laid by the Queen back in 1867, if you’re ever sitting in Stalls K, Row 11, Seat 87, have a look under your seat. The block of red Aberdeen granite concealed there is a reminder of how Prince Albert’s big idea evolved into a great British institution.

BOOK AHEAD Concerts and events take place year-round, with the Proms – this year in their 125th season – the main attraction from 19 July to 14 September. Various tours are available, from the popular Grand Tour to special-interest tours on the building’s architecture and the history of classical music, among other subjects. www.royalalberthall.com

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PHOTOS: © DAVID ILIFF/ROYAL ALBERT HALL/ALAN COPSON/ROBERTHARDING

LANDMARKS

LANDMARKS

Walk by the Royal Albert Hall on a summer’s evening and you may well be caught up in a whirl of excited concertgoers on their way to a Prom.

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RESTAURANTS

FINE DINING

We visit the London restaurants that combine world-class cuisine with a fascinating history WORDS NATASHA FOGES

Kettner’s Townhouse Kettner’s is something of a Soho landmark, a bastion of class and tradition. Opened by Auguste Kettner, chef to Napoleon III, in 1867, it has long been a place to see and be seen. Oscar Wilde was drawn by its boudoir-ish glamour, conducting “illicit assignations” there, and Edward VII met his mistress, Lillie Langtry, here for more secret liaisons. Winston Churchill, Agatha Christie, Bing Crosby and Margaret Thatcher were diners (not all at the same time).

Closed for many years, in 2018 the restaurant was acquired by the luxury Soho House group, who restored it to its original splendour and added 33 stylish bedrooms upstairs. Kettner’s Townhouse – as it’s now called – is once again abuzz with the chatter of a glamorous clientele tucking into classic French cuisine (all the croquettes, parfaits and gratins your heart could desire).

The Deco champagne bar (for hotel guests) is a thing of beauty with its walnut horseshoe bar, while the lively piano bar is sophisticated and glamorous, with a lingering hint of the possibility of intrigue and romance that a night at Kettner’s has always promised. Oscar Wilde would have approved.

29 Romilly St, Soho. kettnerstownhouse.com

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Started as an oyster stall in 1742, Wiltons was opened as a restaurant in the 1840s, and the oysters remained a mainstay of the menu. It received its first royal warrant from Queen Victoria in 1884.

Time has stood still here. The monogrammed carpet, the green velvet banquettes, the dim lighting, the silver trolleys that are trundled through the restaurant (one for meat, one for cheese, even one for brandy).

The menu, too, is rigorously traditional.

Half-a-dozen West Mersea native oysters start off a meal nicely: presented like works of art, they come with muslin-wrapped lemon and shallot vinegar. Follow with the old-school seafood cocktail, which has fallen out of favour everywhere but here. For mains, the contents of those silver trolleys – beef brisket, say, or roast leg of Romney Marsh lamb – are usually the tastiest option. Desserts are classic and soul-soothing too, from bread and butter pudding (thought to have been invented here) to plum crumble and custard.

Cooking this good – and a setting this handsome – comes at a price, but for a special meal Wiltons is hard to beat.

55 Jermyn St, St James’s. wiltons.co.uk www.britain-magazine.com

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PHOTOS: © SOHO HOUSE KETTNERS TOWNHOUSE RESTAURANT AND CHAMPAGNE BAR

Wiltons

RESTAURANTS

Rules

Opened by Thomas Rule in 1798, Rules’s first incarnation was as an oyster bar. It quickly attracted praise for its “porter, pies and oysters”, and was frequented by a clientele of “rakes, dandies and superior intelligences”.

Its literary associations are second to none: Charles Dickens, William Makepeace Thackeray, John Galsworthy and H. G. Wells all dined here, and it has appeared in the novels of many more. One of the private dining rooms is named after Graham Greene, whose novel The End of the Affair saw the adulterous couple have their first tryst here.

Even today, it’s easy to imagine the great and the good from times past holding forth over a plate of jugged hare. The decor remains resolutely true to its origins, with its red velvet banquettes, swirly carpets and gilt mirrors.

Oysters still feature on the menu, as do pies, game (from the restaurant’s own estate in the High Pennines) and puddings. No fiddly flourishes, just good old-fashioned English cooking, expertly executed.

34-35 Maiden Lane, Covent Garden www.rules.co.uk

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RESTAURANTS

Quo Vadis Quo Vadis has a typically louche Soho backstory: formerly a brothel and a home to Karl Marx, who started Das Kapital in an upstairs room, it was opened as a restaurant in 1926 and soon found itself at the epicentre of Soho’s social whirl.

This Soho icon is still going strong, recently spruced up, though its famous stained-glass windows have stayed intact. Chef Jeremy Lee’s menu is big on comfort food – the restaurant’s signature smoked eel sandwich (don’t knock it till you’ve tried it) and pie of the day still on the menu. The restaurant’s small size – it has just half a dozen tables – gives it an intimate buzz, and the linen-clothed tables, fresh flowers and mood lighting hit just the right note for a special-occasion dinner.

26-29 Dean St, Soho. www.quovadissoho.co.uk

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‘OUTRAGEOUSLY FUNNY’ BROADWAY BABY

THE ORIGINAL SHOW ENTERTAINING AUDIENCES FOR OVER 21 YEARS! A top attraction of London’s theatre scene since 2012 and worldwide since 1997, this fantastic immersive show puts audiences right at the heart of the action.

Basil’s rude, Manuel confused, and Sybil cracks the whip… all the while dishing up yet more laughs and a 3-course meal. This is an irrepressible, irresistible show, a blend of top-flight improvisation and tight theatrical script, where chaos reigns right from the start.

Expect the unexpected in the show that’s 70% improvised!

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Only Fools The (cushty) Dining Experience is the show you’ve all been asking for!

Meet the pride of Peckham in a night of eating, wheeling and dealing. The fun starts from the moment audiences join the Trotters and their friends for a knees-up.

Meanwhile, they try to drum up some cash and make a cheeky saving on the side. So why is the pub closed on the busiest night of the week…??!! This is a t’riffic night out with some cushty pub grub – you’d be a plonker to miss it!

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Warren Street

RESTAURANTS

Simpson's in the Strand Opened as a chess club and coffee house in 1828, Simpson’s in the Strand became one of the most important venues for the game in the nineteenth century. The name of the dining room, the vast, high-ceilinged Grand Divan, dates from this time, when the gentlemen chess players would relax on comfortable divans to play.

Even in its chess days, Simpson’s was renowned for its traditional British food, particularly roast meats. “Its keynote is solid comfort. It is a pleasant, soothing, hearty place – a restful temple of food,” wrote the comic author P.G Wodehouse. It remains so today. Leather banquettes, wood panelling and twinkling chandeliers provide a fitting backdrop to the impeccable food.

The “bill of fare” – no menus here – is a roll-call of the classics of British cuisine: beef Wellington, steak & kidney pie, Dover sole.

For a treat, order roast meat from the silver-domed serving trolley, wheeled to your table and served with a flourish: a tradition that dates back to the chess-club days, to avoid interrupting games in progress.

100 Strand, Covent Garden www.simpsonsinthestrand.co.uk

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www.britain-magazine.com

RESTAURANTS

The Quality Chop House include Cornish mackerel, ham hock, smoked eel stock and sea beet, and mains Hereford beef, swede pine nuts and Madeira.

If your tastes err more on the traditional side, fear not: seasonal wild game with the trimmings, chops and steaks remain at the heart of the menu. You can sadly no longer get “a plate of meat, bread and half a pint of ale for sixpence”, but the two-course set lunch is a bargain at £22.

88-94 Farringdon Rd, Clerkenwell thequalitychophouse.com

PHOTOS: © JOE WOODHOUSE

The Quality Chop House has been a bastion of British cuisine on Clerkenwell’s Farringdon Road since it opened in 1869. Its chequerboard floor, wood-panelled booths and pew-like bench seating, dating from its days as a “Progressive Working Class Caterer” are Grade II-listed. It is probably a unique example of the survival of workingclass restaurant from this era.

The Victorian decor may have remained but these days, the food, based on seasonal British ingredients, is more innovative. Starters might

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RESTAURANTS

Simpson's Tavern

Located down a cobbled Dickensian alley at 38 ½ Cornhill, Simpson’s Tavern is as unusual as its address. Noisy and convivial, this City institution has remained pretty much unchanged since it was opened in 1757 by Thomas Simpson. It still has hat stands for your bowler, and little wooden booths in which diners sit elbow to elbow, tucking into generous portions of hearty British fare.

The daily specials of a pie and a roast never change, or you can order a la carte: the traditional Edwardian pork chop, say, or the popular mixed grill. Be sure to try their signature dish of stewed cheese, consisting of a pot of baked cheese sauce to be poured over a slice of toast. Whatever you order, you’ll be asked, “Do you want a sausage with that?”

The answer, of course, is always yes.

38 1/2 Cornhill, City www.simpsonstavern.co.uk

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Battersea Park Children’s Zoo... who will you see?

London Bridge Hotel has everything you need in a London hotel, relaxed yet comfortable and contemporary accommodation; a great location and transport links and the buzz of the city just outside the door. Situated in the heart of the historic and thriving Borough of Southwark, London Bridge Hotel provides an excellent base from which to enjoy all the attractions of the capital, The Shard, the newly regenerated Shard Quarter, Borough Market and the River Thames.

From cheeky monkeys to leaping lemurs, noisy RWWHUV WR VQXIćLQJ FRDWLV who will you come face to face with?

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our fun play area for kids of all ages!

Whilst here you must pay a visit to Quarter Bar & Lounge, the hotel’s bar which offers a chic design with a relaxed and comfortable atmosphere.

r Visit oue it s b e w

Tel: 020 7924 5826

Battersea Park, Chelsea Bridge Gate Battersea London SW11 4NJ

www.batterseaparkzoo.co.uk

8/18 London Bridge Street, London SE1 9SG Tel: +44 (0) 20 7855 2200 Email: reservations@londonbridgehotel.com www.londonbridgehotel.com

we’re passionate about wildlife

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LONDON AFTER DARK

The magic of Piccadilly Circus lit up at night

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LONDON AFTER DARK

London AFTER DARK

From the iconic skyline to the vibrant theatres and concert halls, the capital comes alive at night WORDS LAURA SILVERMAN

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HISTORY

Clockwise from this image: Soane Lates candlelit tours; Twilight Tours at the Tower of London; Silent Night Tours at Dennis Severs’ House; London’s illuminated skylineonation

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www.britain-magazine.com

LONDON AFTER DARK

PHOTOS: © OLIMPIO FANTUZ/4CORNERSIMAGES/ROELOF BAKKER/ANDREWPICKETPHOTO.COM/VISITBRITAIN/LEWIS BUSH

T

www.britain-magazine.com

here is a magic to London at night. From the Houses of Parliament to St Paul’s Cathedral, the London Eye to Canary Wharf, is any skyline more exhilarating? Many museums stay open late, while theatres and concert halls come alive. As the crowds wind down, a different side of the capital awakens.

The South Bank provides the postcard views, the night lights glittering in the Thames. The London Eye, Europe’s tallest Ferris wheel, glows through the gloom. It stands opposite the Houses of Parliament – including Big Ben – and offers a 360-degree panorama from its glass capsules.

Two miles east, The View from The Shard offers the highest lookout in town, at 801ft (244m) on the Skydeck (level 72). Tower Bridge, with its neo-Gothic towers, and St Paul’s Cathedral, once the tallest building in London (from 1710 to 1967), look like models from the top.

Prefer a more grounded experience? Old Westminster

by Gaslight, run by London Walks, is a chatty tour of London’s centre of power. The two-hour walk includes a stroll along the Embankment, illuminated by Victorian lamps. The route also passes Westminster Abbey, where all British monarchs have been crowned since 1066. When Parliament is in session, you can sit in on a debate, too.

In the East End, mysterious souls come out at night.

London Ghost Walks is organised by Richard Jones, a paranormal enthusiast. Hear tales of a phantom waiter and a singing chorister. Pass a Tudor gatehouse, and learn how to raise souls at a graveyard. Life skills.

For a cosier experience, head to Dennis Severs’ House in nearby Spitalfields. The late 20th-century artist renovated the property as if it were in use by its 18th and 19th-century owners: a family of Huguenot silk weavers.

Silent Night Tours swish guests past tapestries and mahogany furniture, a half-eaten meal and a wig.

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Agatha Christie’s murder mystery, The Mousetrap, has been running since 1952. The audience is asked not to reveal the twist Sir John Soane’s Museum in Holborn is also partmuseum, part-house. The 19th-century architect, best known for designing the Bank of England, left his home in Holborn to the nation, requesting that it be preserved as it was when he died. This is no ordinary home, however. Sir John was a collector. Rooms are full of classical busts, fragments of Roman mosaics, and art by JMW Turner, a friend.

The highlight is a 3,000-year-old alabaster sarcophagus of an Egyptian pharaoh. Sir John was so proud of this purchase that he threw a three-day party in its honour.

There were almost 900 guests, including Robert Jenkinson, the Prime Minister. Missed it? Soane Lates, candlelit tours, take place once a month.

Lots of the big museums stay open late on Fridays. For Sir John’s collection on an extravagant scale, there’s the British Museum nearby with its 8 million artefacts. Tick off the Rosetta Stone or sculptures from the Parthenon in a 20-minute spotlight tour, then wander the rest of the ancient world at leisure.

For maximum heritage, head to the Tower of London, founded in the 11th century during the Norman

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PHOTO: © ROYAL COLLECTION TRUST/ HER MAJESTY QUEEN ELIZABETH II/TODD-WHITE ART PHOTOGRAPHY

LONDON AFTER DARK

PHOTOS: © JOHAN PERSSON/HELENA MISCIOSCIA/THEATREPIX/ALAMY

Clockwise from this image: The Sam Wanamaker Playhouse; Shakespeare’s Globe; the cast of The Mousetrap; the Royal Observatory at night

Conquest. Yeoman Warders (Beefeaters) lead Twilight Tours on Sundays from November to April. Stops include the Scaffold Site (where prisoners, including Anne Boleyn, Henry VIII’s second wife, were executed) and the Bloody Tower (linked to the mysterious disappearance of two princes in the 15th century). Or attend The Ceremony of the Keys, the world’s oldest military ceremony, also at the Tower. Every evening at 9.53pm (on the dot), the Chief Yeoman Warder marches through the Tower with “Queen Elizabeth’s keys”, leaving them at the Queen’s House (a former royal residence at the Tower) overnight for safekeeping. The tradition goes back to the 1300s. Tickets are free, but spaces fill up fast.

Look out for less frequent events. The Chelsea Physic Garden, founded in 1673 by the Worshipful Society of Apothecaries to grow medicinal plants, holds Thursday supper talks every other month. Experts have recently chatted about everything from the best flowers to make drinks (elderflower and wild cherry among them) to Charles Darwin. You can wander around the garden, too, admiring Europe’s oldest pond rockery and the world’s most northerly outdoor grapefruit tree. If skies are your

thing, head to the Royal Observatory Greenwich.

Astronomers hold An Evening with the Stars on select evenings from November to January. Stargaze through an 18-tonne Victorian telescope and visit the Prime Meridian Line, dividing the eastern and western hemispheres, and the centre of world time.

For full-on entertainment, there’s the theatre, with 40 venues in the West End. Three productions are worthy of particular mentions this year. The Mousetrap, Agatha Christie’s murder-mystery play, opened in London in 1952 and has been running ever since: more than 27,000 performances. It is now at St Martin’s Theatre. The audience is asked not to reveal the twist. We say no more.

The most hotly anticipated new production is an adaptation of the Hollywood film All About Eve, starring Gillian Anderson (known for The X-Files) as an ageing Broadway star, and Lily James (Downton Abbey) as an ambitious actress and fan. It runs at the Noël Coward Theatre from 2 February to 11 May. On the musical front, catch Mary Poppins at the Prince Edward Theatre from the autumn. Sir Richard Eyre (winner of five Olivier Awards) directs; Sir Matthew LONDON | 2019 GUIDE

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LONDON AFTER DARK puts on 400 concerts a year, specialising in chamber music and song. Its Arts & Crafts cupola over the stage and its acoustics are especially impressive.

The Royal Albert Hall (p103) is on a grander scale – it seats up to 5,250 people. It was opened by Queen Victoria in 1871 and is, of course, named after her husband.

Today, it hosts concerts, ballets, operas, tennis tournaments – and, in the summer, the Proms. This year’s programme, which runs from 19 July to 14 September, will be announced in May. For the ultimate in sophistication, head to the Royal Opera House. Home to the Royal Opera and the Royal Ballet, there has been a venue on this site since 1732. The 2019 programme includes Gounod’s Faust (11 April to 6 May), Britten’s Billy Budd (23 April to 10 May) and Puccini’s Tosca (24 May to 20 June).

Coming out of the neoclassical building brings you to the grand Covent Garden piazza, vibrant at all times of day. You’ll be reluctant to go home, but then you must: you’ll have a busy morning ahead. There’s a magic to the day as well…

Below: Head to the Royal Opera House for a world-class performance

 For more on London nightlife, see www.britain-magazine.com

PHOTOS: © VISITBRITAIN/BRITAIN ON VIEW

Bourne (known for his original ballet interpretations) is overseeing the choreography. Suffragettes. Penguins.

English eccentricity.

What is theatre and Britain, however, without Shakespeare? Shakespeare’s Globe, a reconstruction of the original Elizabethan Globe Theatre, always promises a rich season in the summer. In the winter, head to the Sam Wanamaker Playhouse next door for intimate, candlelit performances. Edward II, by Shakespeare’s contemporary (and rival) Christopher Marlowe, runs from 7 February to 20 April; Shakespeare’s Richard II is on from 22 February to 21 April.

Toying between Shakespeare or a musical? Regent’s Park Open-Air Theatre, which has been around since 1900, offers a programme of both. Highlights include Shakespeare’s A Midsummer Night’s Dream (28 June to 27 July) and Andrew Lloyd Webber’s Evita (2 August to 21 September). Bring a picnic to eat in the park first.

Of the capital’s many concert halls, we’ve picked two.

Wigmore Hall was built as the showroom for German company Bechstein Pianos at the turn of the last century, before being seized as enemy property during the First World War and reopening in its current guise. Today, it

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Rediscover the RAF Museum London Explore the fascinating story of the first 100 years of the RAF. Debate the future, test your flying skills, be amazed by stories of bravery, love and loss. Catch up with friends in our café and restaurant. Families will love our themed outdoor play area.

We’re open daily from 10.00am. Entry is free.

rafmuseum.org

020 8205 2266

The Royal Air Force Museum London, Grahame Park Way, Colindale, NW9 5LL Registered charity no. 244708

PUBS & BARS

LIQUID HISTORY

The history of London's pubs and bars is the history of London itself. We visit the city's most storied places for a drink WORDS EUAN FERGUSON

F

rom wine-sipping Romans in their tavernae through Saxons with mead and ale to the gin-crazed Georgians and the porter-swilling Victorians, social changes can be measured by how the city’s inhabitants drank.

Nowadays, one of its unique selling points is the history bound up in its licensed establishments. Visitors can’t get enough of the back stories: truly ancient boozers like Ye Olde Cheshire Cheese in Fleet Street provide a glimpse into a lost London a world away from the typical tourist zones of the West End. Some of our historical pubs have remained largely unchanged since they were built (the Princess Louise, for example), and with others – the Black Friar, for example, London’s only extant Art Nouveau pub – it’s not the building but the biography that deserves a closer look.

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The Savoy's bars Drink... in the world-class bars of a world-famous hotel Both bars in the iconic Savoy could hold a claim to being the most refined in London. Following an epic refurbishment in 2010, they reopened with two distinct but equally glamorous personalities. Past the Thames Foyer, the Beaufort is dusky, sexy, opulent and clad seductively in black and gold; the more famous American Bar, perhaps one for afternoons rather than evenings, was a birthplace of the modern cocktail and is dapper, discreet and soundtracked by a grand piano.

Can there be more striking backdrops in London for the taking of drinks?

Essential order In the Beaufort, there are 25 champagnes by the glass. In the American, it has to be a classic; head barman Harry Craddock created the White Lady here in the 1920s.

Strand, Covent Garden. www.fairmont.com

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Ye Olde Cheshire Cheese Drink... and get lost in the mists of time or in the maze of rooms The prefix ‘Ye Olde’ is open to licence, but this certainly is one extra-mature cheese. ‘Rebuilt in 1667,’ says the sign – after the Great Fire of London – and it looks like it’s barely changed since. As such, its dim and atmospheric stone-and-wood bars and dungeon-like cellars are a huge draw for out-of-towners. It’s an ancient relic they can actually sit and drink in. When a pub’s been around this long it’s bound to have attracted its fair share of famous Londoners; the patrons supposed to have tipped a glass here include Dickens, Yeats, Tennyson and, when the Cheese was less Olde, Dr Samuel Johnson.

Essential order In the absence of a Pepysian jug of wine, try the closest thing to the traditional smog-thick ‘London particular’ stout, a bottle of Taddy Porter.

145 Fleet Street, City

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Jamaica Wine House Drink... in an unofficial City boardroom On the site of this hidden-away City stalwart stood London’s first coffee house, ‘at the sign of Pasqua Rosee’s Head’, built in 1652 to provide a meeting place for merchants. The Jamaica Wine House is now a traditional pub a world away from the big chain bars that dominate the Square Mile, and it’s as good for ales as it is for its wine. It’s in taverns like this – reached through a maze of anicent alleyways – that business has been done the old-fashioned way for centuries, with a handshake, a nod and a pint.

Essential order Celebrate closing a deal (or pretend you just did) with something rich and red.

St Michael’s Alley, Cornhill, City. jamaicawinehouse.co.uk

The Princess Louise Drink... in a grand old London gin palace Once upon a time, all pubs were like this. Or, at least, pubs like this would have been less uncommon. The Princess Louise survives as a wonderful example of the late nineteenth-century ‘gin palace’, designed with maximum extravagance to instil in Londoners a sense that for as long as it took to drink a pint, they were lord of the manor. Take in the mirrors, the etched glass, the gold-leaf pillars, the wooden partitions, and say to yourself: they don’t make them like this any more.

Essential order The pub’s now under the ownership of the Samuel Smith Brewery, and its hefty and bittersweet Oatmeal Stout is the pick of the bunch.

208 High Holborn, Holborn. princesslouisepub.co.uk

Duke's Drink... in James Bond’s bar of choice You could order a classic cocktail. You could go for champagne, or an aged calvados. But there’s one drink Duke’s is famous for. Ask for a martini, and as you sit in a Downton Abbey armchair under historical portraits of stern members of the landed classes, a white-jacketed barman wheels over a trolley of chilled spirits and exquisite glassware, and proceeds to concoct the cocktail. It’s a superb piece of tableside theatre and one of London’s quintessential experiences, made more significant when you learn it was Duke’s that inspired author Ian Fleming to make his 007 a Martini man.

The full Bond tux isn’t necessary, but it’s vital to make an effort with your attire.

Essential order The Vesper: London gin, Polish vodka, Lillet vermouth, bitters and orange oil.

St James’s Place, St James’s. www.dukeshotel.com

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PUBS & BARS

Booking Office Drink... in a Victorian cathedral of cocktails Housed in the former ticket office of St Pancras station and now part of the magnificent Renaissance Hotel, this all-day bar and restaurant is surely one of the most impressive places to drink in London. At ground level is a sweeping marble bar, but look up and you won’t fail to be awed: architect Sir George Gilbert Scott’s gothic room soars with ecclesiastical arches, buttresses and leaded windows. The Victorians built pretty special pubs, but their stations were something else.

Essential order A revived classic from the 1800s: the Soyer au Champagne is made with cider brandy, cherry liqueur, vanilla ice cream and champagne.

St Pancras Renaissance, Euston Road, King’s Cross. www.stpancraslondon.com

PHOTOS: © DUKE'S HOTEL/ KIM LIGHTBODY

The British Library

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The Bar at The Goring Drink... in the royals' favourite bar There are exquisite hotels aplenty in London, but few have the sense of refinement of The Goring, built in 1910 and owned by the same family since. The bar is an Edwardian haven of deep-red walls and old-school manners; drinks aren’t cutting edge, although they are expertly made. Prices are high, naturally, but look at the richness of the surroundings, the courtly service and the extras like canapés in the evening and nibbles on all tables. House rules stipulate that mobiles may not be used, even when the Queen’s staff have their Christmas party here. It’s that sort of place.

Essential order There’s half-a-million pounds-worth of wine in the cellars: it would be a shame not to try some.

The Goring, 15 Beeston Place, Belgravia, www.thegoring.com

This feature is an edited extract from Drink London (Refreshed) by Euan Ferguson (£9.99, White Lion Publishing).

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Guided tours to London’s iconic pubs

Following in the footsteps of Shakespeare & Dickens, we pause to enjoy a drink in art nouveau gems, literary classics, ancient alehouses and fine Victorian gin palaces.

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HOTELS

CHARACTER IN THE CAPITAL Make your trip memorable with one of these special places to stay WORDS NATASHA FOGES

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Claridge’s

PHOTOS: ©RICHARD BOOTH

“When I die I don’t want to go to heaven,” said Spencer Tracy. “I want to go to Claridge’s.” The hotel of choice for discerning film stars and visiting royals is dreamily beautiful. Opened in 1812, this Mayfair old-timer is ageing gracefully and is still the height of glamour, taste and sophistication.

Its interiors largely date from a 1920s renovation, and its Art Deco furnishings make it something very special. Step across the black-and-white marbled floor of the Lobby to the Foyer, where glittering mirrors reflect light from every angle, and the tinkling of the grand piano fills the air: a memorable setting for afternoon tea (p80). The Fumoir is another special space: Claridge’s dark and cosy bar, where the bartender will serve you a signature Claridge’s Julep. When it’s time to retire, you can sweep up the grand staircase to your room. All rooms are different, but each is an Art Deco gem. Feeling flush? Book the palatial Royal Suite, which comes with its own grand piano, antique furniture and 24-hour butler service.

Brook St, Mayfair. www.claridges.co.uk

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PHOTOS: © 4K-CLIPS/LOOP IMAGES LTD/PAOLO PARADISO/ALAMY/JOANNA HENDERSON/VISITBRITAIN

HOTELS

Hazlitt’s While Hazlitt’s can hardly be described as a home from home (unless you live in a grand Georgian townhouse, that is), its creaky 18th-century rooms have a cosy, welcoming feel. Once home to author William Hazlitt, the hotel is spread across three townhouses and with its sloping floorboards and sympathetically decorated rooms, it certainly feels authentic. Rooms feature classical busts, oil paintings, swagged curtains and ornate beds, and some have open fireplaces and rooftop terraces. Bathrooms come with roll-top tubs. Any modern conveniences that might disturb the harmony of the 18thcentury scheme – air conditioning, TVs – are tucked away in cupboards.

After breakfast in bed – no stuffy dining rooms here – you can explore. Channel the spirit of Hazlitt in the Library, home to Sir Godfrey, the hotel cat, or stop off in the Wardrobe for afternoon tea and cake or a drink at the honesty bar, before stepping out to sample the delights of Soho.

6 Frith St, Soho. www.hazlittshotel.com www.britain-magazine.com

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Dorset Square Hotel

PHOTOS: © SIMON BROWN

This handsome Regency townhouse near Regent’s Park holds 38 rooms, some of which have a view of the private garden square which was originally the site of Thomas Lord’s first cricket ground (its world-famous successor is just down the road). You can enjoy the same views from the restful drawing room, decorated in warm, earthy tones, which, with its log fire and honesty bar, is made for lazy afternoons.

The rooms have been individually designed by owner and creative whizz Kit Kemp with pops of colour, quirky textiles and custom-made wallpaper. The Dorset Square Room with its chartreuse walls is a typically bold and colourful space, or go for the more sober Marylebone Room, clad in grey wool suiting fabric, which has its own library. Throughout, there are plenty of nods to the site’s cricketing heritage, with little bats and ball motifs bringing a touch of humour to the smartly designed rooms. You’ll be bowled over.

39-40 Dorset Square, Marylebone. firmdalehotels.com

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HOTELS

The Rookery

“Rookery” is 18th-century slang for “city slum”, and Smithfield, the corner of East London in which The Rookery stands, was once notorious for its thieves, gamblers and murky dealings. Though the area is scrubbed up today, for a feel for the character of old Smithfield, book a room at this Georgian townhouse. Its warren of dark and atmospheric rooms, all wonky doors and floors, dates back to 1764 and has an appropriately raffish air. The 33 rooms are named after former residents of the area – a varied bunch, from Mary Lane, a local servant girl who married a diamond merchant, to Sir Walter de Manny, a knight. Four-posters and heavy drapes set the tone in the bedrooms, and the bathrooms have claw-foot tubs and fluffy robes. For a splurge, book the theatrical two-storey Rook’s Nest suite.

Head up the staircase to the sitting room, where the ceiling retracts to give a view of the room’s very own 40ft spire.

12 Peter’s Lane, Clerkenwell. www.rookeryhotel.com www.britain-magazine.com

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The Gore Queen’s Gate Mansions – as The Gore was then known – was built in 1892 as a residence for visitors to Prince Albert’s big project, the Great Exhibition. It featured liveried staff, horse-drawn carriages and a hydraulic lift: an undreamt-of luxury. A sense of ease and luxury pervades this Kensington stalwart to this day. Plush-carpeted corridors lead to the 50 rooms, decorated in period style. If you’re in a playful mood, book the fabulously over-the-top Judy Garland junior suite (above), featuring stained glass windows and the film star’s own ornate gilt bed – she was a regular guest – framed by velvet theatre-style curtains. The Tudor Suite, meanwhile, boats a vast stone fireplace, mahogany four-poster and oak-beamed ceilings.

The hotel’s restaurant, 190 Queen’s Gate, is an elegant space for dinner. The Gore is just a stone’s throw from the Royal Albert Hall – Prince Albert’s other big idea (p103). So close, in fact, that you can nip down the road and catch an evening concert after dinner.

190 Queen’s Gate, Kensington. starhotelscollezione.com

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PLACES TO STAY

Dean Street Townhouse

PHOTOS: © JACK HARDY/SOHO HOUSE DEAN STREET TOWNHOUSE HOTEL PHOTOGRAPHY/SIMON BROWN

In the heart of buzzing Soho, this historic townhouse, once home to Charles II’s mistress Nell Gwynne, has hosted many famous names over the years, from William Hogarth to Fred Astaire. Now owned by members’ club Soho House (you don’t have to be a member to stay), the hotel is decked out in fresh, energising colours. Wood-panelled bedrooms (ranging in size from “Tiny” to “Bigger”) are cosied up with the help of a few homespun touches: folksy cushions, comfy armchairs and retro radios. Tea, coffee and chocolate biscuits help you to settle in.

The lively ground-floor restaurant, with its chequered floor and red leather booths, is lined with original art and filled with the chatter of Soho’s bohemian crowd. The best thing about a visit here? You’re in the thick of the action, in one of Soho’s prime spots, but at any time you choose you can escape to your room and put your feet up (and maybe open those biscuits).

69-71 Dean St, Soho. www.deanstreettownhouse.com

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ESSENTIALS

TRAVEL ESSENTIALS Our easy-to-follow guide to help you get your bearings in the capital Heathrow Express is a non-stop service from the airport to Paddington station and takes as little as 15 minutes, depending which terminal you are travelling from.

Trains run every 15 minutes. Singles cost from £22, with returns at £37, when bought online (£5 more on board), while if you book in advance you can get tickets for just £5.50 each way. Alternatively, TfL Rail trains take around 30 minutes to get to Paddington and cost £10.30 for a single ticket (you can pay with your Oyster card). Trains are useful if you’re staying near the Paddington, Lancaster Gate or Bayswater areas; if further afield consider travelling from the airport by Tube on the Piccadilly line, with central stops such as Knightsbridge, Green Park, Piccadilly Circus and Covent Garden (journey time around 50-60 minutes).

GETTING AROUND While London is undoubtedly huge, many of the biggest attractions are within walking distance of each other, and sometimes taking a stroll between Tube stations (say from Piccadilly Circus to Leicester Square) makes much more sense than travelling underground. That said, Londoners are very proud of the Tube network and you can pick up a colour map

www.gatwickexpress.com; www.heathrowexpress.com; tfl.gov.uk

PHOTOS: © PANTHER MEDIA/ALAMY/SHUTTERSTOCK

GETTING TO THE CAPITAL London officially has six airports, but most international visitors come into either Gatwick Airport or Heathrow. From the former, you can get the Gatwick Express non-stop train service into London Victoria station in around 30 minutes. Trains run up to four times an hour and cost from £17.80 for a single and £28.10 for a return. Booking online saves 10% off the price at the train station, and if you are travelling in a group of 3 to 9 adults, booking together in advance will save you up to 34% off the normal price. Southern trains also serve London Victoria, as well as London Bridge and Clapham Junction (tickets from £12 single; journey time around 30 minutes to Victoria).

Thameslink trains run to London Bridge, London Blackfriars, St Pancras International and Farringdon (from £11 single; journey time around 30 minutes to London Bridge).

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PHOTOS: © RICHARD TAYLOR/4 CORNERS IMAGES/STUART KELLY/ALAMY

ESSENTIALS

from all Tube stations, which will help you navigate the different lines.

When it comes to buying tickets, though single fares are still available, by far the most economical way to travel is to use a tap-andgo Oyster card. This smartcard is a quick and easy way to pay once you’re in the city, and reduces the cost of fares. Fares are capped at £9.80 per day in zones 1-4 (covering the most central areas), meaning you can hop on and off the Tube as many times as you like. Oyster cards can also be

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used on buses, trams, the DLR, most train services, the Emirates Air Line and Thames Clipper River Bus services.

Visitor Oyster Cards can be bought in advance and posted to your home address.

They cost £5 to activate, plus however much credit you’d like to top up by. You can reclaim any unused credit at the end of your trip, or (since they don’t expire) save the card for your next visit.

If you are in a rush or simply want to travel in a bit more luxury (and don’t mind being held up in traffic), then hail a Black Cab, which can be spotted on all main roads and often line up outside train stations.

Taxis are run on meters and cost more than the Tube (about £15-20 for a journey of 10-20 minutes) but can be a nice way of seeing the city, plus most of them now accept credit and debit cards. A new fleet of electric cabs provides an environmentally friendly way to get around (p27). tfl.gov.uk

SEE MORE ATTRACTIONS, FOR LESS If you want to make the most of your time in London, consider investing in a London Pass, which gives you free entry to over 80 attractions and tours, including the Tower of London, Westminster Abbey and Kensington Palace, plus you’ll be able to skip the queue at selected venues. Pass holders are also given a 160-page guidebook and get a free one-day Hop on Hop Off Bus Tour, which takes in some of London’s most famous landmarks.

Passes range from 1 to 10 days, costing from £69 for an adult day pass to £147 for a 10-day pass, and can be posted to you or downloaded to your phone. www.londonpass.com www.britain-magazine.com

Experience the best of London at the Northbank Bursting with culture, history and entertainment

Located in the centre of London with outstanding transport connections, Northbank offers everything that London is famous for: cultural hotspots, great architecture, world class hospitality, iconic landmarks and hidden gems just waiting to be discovered.

Places of interest in London’s most central Business Improvement District: • National Gallery and Trafalgar Square • Somerset House • The Savoy and many other world class hotels • Ten West End theatres • London’s oldest wine bar and tea shop, Gordon’s and Twinings • Eat out at the new Kerridge’s Bar & Grill, The Delaunay, or family-run Salieri • Discover award-winning gardens, Benjamin Franklin’s House, university institutions of King’s College London and LSE • World-class festivals: London Fashion Week, London Film Festival, London Design Festival, Photo London, and much more!

Master logo

3

www.thenorthbank.london

Social media: @TheNorthbankBID

2019 DIRECTORY

L

ondon is a many-layered metropolis whose attractions – big and small, grand and low-key, ancient and modern – are too numerous to be contained within the pages of this guide. You could spend a lifetime in the capital and never visit the same place twice.

From unmissable landmarks such as Tower Bridge and the London Eye to the hidden gems awaiting discovery, the sheer variety of London’s

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attractions is unrivalled. If your time is limited, it can be tricky to know where to begin, and how to make the most of your stay. Our 2019 London Directory is the solution: pages packed with inspiration to help you choose what to see, and where to shop, eat and stay make it the perfect travelling companion with which to navigate this fascinating city. Don’t plan a trip without it. www.britain-magazine.com

144 TOURS & EXCURSIONS 149 MUSEUMS 152 ACCOMMODATION 156 ATTRACTIONS 160 FOOD, DRINK & SHOPPING www.britain-magazine.com

PHOTOS: © ROBERT HARDING/JOHN KELLERMAN/ONTHEROAD/ALAMY/ISTOCK

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TOURS AND EXCURSIONS

Belmond Reservations T: 0845 077 2222 E: reservations.europe@belmond.com (Hotels) reservations.uk@belmond.com (Trains & River Cruises) www.belmond.com

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urator of exceptional travel experiences, Belmond operates some of the most celebrated trains, hotels and river cruises in the world.

With the launch of our latest retreat, Belmond Cadogan Hotel, you can now combine a stay at this historic Sloane Street gem with a journey on Belmond British Pullman, sister train of the Venice Simplon-Orient-Express. Indulge in two iconic London experiences in one thrilling escape.

Begin or end your adventure at Belmond Cadogan Hotel, a sanctuary at the crossroads of stylish Knightsbridge and artistic Chelsea. Once the haunt of Oscar Wilde and Lillie Langtry, the hotel is a place to revel in cosmopolitan living before lounging in the private gardens, curling up in front of the fire or sipping a local gin at the elegant bar.

Our rooms and suites blend classic British charm with modern style and elegance, every detail honouring the hotel’s rich heritage. Flashes of bold colour, vibrant flowers and captivating works of art offset luxurious neutral fabrics.

Experience brilliant British cuisine at our flagship restaurant. Under the direction of celebrated chef

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Adam Handling, traditional regional dishes are reimagined as light, daring masterpieces.

Indulge in a rejuvenating massage or facial in our Spa Suite, or step out to explore compelling attractions ranging from the nearby Saatchi Gallery and Chelsea Physic Garden to world-famous stores and boutiques.

From the hotel, it’s a short hop to London Victoria Station where the Belmond British Pullman awaits. Settle into your gorgeous Art Deco carriage and look forward to the gastronomic journey ahead. We offer an exciting array of excursions to stately homes, enchanting cities, exhilarating sporting events and prestigious flower shows.

Or stay on board for a round trip, savouring the changing views through your window as mouthwatering dishes are served at your immaculate, linen-clad table. In 2019, our line-up of Celebrity Chef Dinners includes Raymond Blanc and Michel Roux Jr. Relish dishes from an exclusive tasting menu before meeting the Chef himself as he passes through the carriages. To enjoy even more of M. Blanc’s fabled cuisine, join of one our coveted

excursions to Belmond Le Manoir aux Quat’Saisons for lunch at the two-Michelin-starred restaurant.

Further gourmet experiences can be enjoyed during an Afternoon Tea hosted by Mary Berry, or a tour and tasting at Hush Heath Winery, a Kent-based vineyard famed for its award-winning sparkling wines.

Celebrate a special occasion on board: invite your loved one to a romantic Valentine’s Day lunch, treat your mum to a lavish Mother’s Day tea or gather friends for a glittering Christmas lunch with decorations, entertainment and all the trimmings.

Or travel back in time to Shakespearean and medieval England with our riveting new excursion to Warwick Castle and Stratford-upon-Avon. Sparkling Bellinis, delicious brunches and dinners accompanied by our sommelier’s choice of wine are part of every unforgettable journey.

If you’re planning a group celebration, our two London-based experiences are ideal. Reserve a spacious hotel suite and a private carriage for a wonderful shared adventure. With the enchanting, personalised flourishes Belmond is renowned for, every intoxicating moment is a memory to treasure.

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TOURS AND EXCURSIONS

Greenwich Royal Tours

Fun London Tours

Greenwich, London T: +44 (0)800 1804565 www.greenwichroyaltours.com

E: info@funlondontours.com www.funlondontours.com

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e specialise in small group guided walking tours in Greenwich and central London. Our tours are informative, very personable and always fun.

Our flagship tour is our Best of Greenwich Day Tour which includes a visit to the now reopened magnificent Painted Hall and a pub lunch by the Thames.

Other Greenwich tours include: Greenwich Highlights Half Day, Greenwich Food and our new Greenwich Peninsula Tour.

Our specialty tours in central London include: Law in London, Shakespeare in London, Secret Gardens of London and our new Art in London Tour.

Maximum of six people per tour. Private tours available. So come along and let us treat you like royalty!

J

London Guided Walks

Historic London Pub Tour

www.LondonGuidedWalks.co.uk

The tour starts at Blackfriars Tube station T: +44 (0)7729 601 590 E: jane@school-of-booze.com www.school-of-booze.com/london-pub-tours

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ake the most of your time in London by booking your very own private tour guide.

No matter your interests or background, we have a walking tour that’s right for you. Topics include local London history, street art, Instagram and even Harry Potter!

Discover hidden histories which many guidebooks simply don’t cover.

All our guides are qualified and passionate about sharing the best of London with you. Bespoke tours and public walks also available. It’s quick and easy to book instantly online 24/7.

OPEN: All year round.

PRICES: Private tours from £135. Public walks £12 per adults, £8 per child.

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oin a small, friendly group of independent tour guides who focus on the forgotten and fun side of London. Catering to both first-time visitors and regulars, the tours are unique and acclaimed, and include Secret London, Grime & Punishment and Changing the Guard. The walks are historical, family-friendly and delivered with great enthusiasm by guides who really love this amazing city.

OPEN: Tours operate throughout the year at various times of the day.

Please see the website for further information. Tour prices from adults £15, concessions £12. Quote LONDONGUIDE15 when booking to receive a 15 per cent discount on your tour.

A

trip to London would not be complete without a visit to a historic London pub. So why not go with an expert? Book a private walking tour with Jane Peyton, multiple-award winning drinks and pub expert and visit a selection of London’s most unforgettable pubs. It is fun, fascinating, enlightening, sociable and as a private tour it is your group only. This will be the highlight of your trip.

OPEN: 7 January to 15 December, Monday to Saturday 2pm to 7pm.

ADMISSION: The price ranges from £300 to £350 depending on group size.

Maximum group size 6 people. Age 18-plus only.

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TOURS AND EXCURSIONS

British Tours 615 Linen Hall, 162-168 Regent Street, London, W1B 5TE T: +44 (0)20 7038 0688 E: tours@britishtours.com www.britishtours.com

www.britain-magazine.com

B

ritish Tours Ltd is Britain’s longest-established private tour operator. We specialise in personal and flexible touring with the best guides in Britain. Groups of up to six people travel by car with their own driver-guide and larger groups by minibus or coach. You can also tour on foot or using public transport.

Our expert guides are chosen for their knowledge, special interests, backgrounds and personalities. Your guide will collect you by car from any central location and return you to your hotel.

Our London day tours include a flexible London Sightseeing Tour, a Greenwich Tour, and a British Museums Tour amongst others. As well as covering the most famous landmarks, we pride ourselves on showing our clients the more authentic, less “touristy” sights.

Some of our special interest tours include Stonehenge at Dawn, Overnight in a Castle, Film Locations, Normandy D-Day sights by private plane, private views of the Crown Jewels and many more.

We also offer private tours in France and Italy. Spend a day in Versailles, drive through Champagne country or take an overnight tour of France and visit the WWII sights in Normandy. Take a day-trip to Ancient Rome to see the Colosseum or spend two days in Italy visiting Pompeii and the Amalfi Coast.

British Tours Ltd is ideal for families and small private groups who want to see the real Britain away from the large coach groups.

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TOURS AND EXCURSIONS

Thames Tigers 88 London Ltd, 2 Vinegar Street, London E1W 2QQ T: +44 (0)20 7871 3097 www.thamestigers.com

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et your ticket for a trip to remember. Ride a Tiger through London! Jump on at Blackfriars Pier and see the sights of the world’s greatest city from a different perspective. See Tate Modern, The Tower of London and get the selfie of all selfies as you pass under the iconic Tower Bridge. Then hold on as we blast through historic Wapping, past Canary Wharf, the Cutty Sark at Greenwich to the O2 Arena and back for home. The Thames Tigers are the largest rigid inflatable boats operating on the River Thames and, equipped with Ullman suspension seats, shock and vibration will be minimised making the ride not only fun but more comfortable. This will be a trip you’ll never forget!

Brasilian Guide London T: +44 (0)794 710 3318 E: vaniabr@brasilianguidelondon.com www.brasilianguidelondon.com

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ello, my name is Vania and I am a qualified Blue Badge Tourist Guide.

My tours are engaging, fun and informative and can be tailored to suit your requirements, whether you want to visit royal palaces, galleries, museums, parks, or the shops and entertainment venues of the West End. If you wish to venture outside London, I can plan a wonderful day to some of England’s most charming places such as Windsor, Bath or the Cotswolds.

Tours can be adapted to suit the first time visitor or the London enthusiast and I can deliver personalised individual tours in both English and Portuguese.

If you would like a professional, reliable and entertaining guide to take you around the many sites of London and its surroundings, I can help you to plan a perfect tour.

smallcarBIGCITY

Carquest Rentals

8 Northumberland Avenue, London, WC2N 5BY T: +44 (0)2078 396737 E: info@smallcarbigcity.com www.smallcarBIGCITY.com

34 Aldershot Road, Guildford, Surrey, GU2 8AF T: +44 (0) 1444 471289 E: info@carquest-rentals.com www.carquest-rentals.com

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e believe that visitors to London should feel like locals. We have restored a fleet of classic Mini Coopers and trained a team of passionate local Londoners to show you this great city from a different perspective.

ADMISSION: Prices from £63 per person, based on 3 people sharing.

arquest Rentals is a bespoke and personal vehicle hire company providing customers with both cars and minibuses. Carquest offers a fast, easy and professional service, allowing you to drive away from the airport in under 15 minutes with no queues, no shuttles and no fuss. Operating out of Heathrow, Gatwick and other London airports on request, cars are available seven days a week. Choose from small economy cars to prestige Mercedes E-Classes or Mitsubishi Shoguns and SUVs – all at competitive rates.

OPEN: Mon-Fri 8am-6pm; Sat 8am-12pm.

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TOURS AND EXCURSIONS

Walk Eat Talk Eat

London Canal Museum

London T: +44 (0)7851820287 E: Eddie@walkeattalkeat.com www.walkeattalkeat.com

12-13 New Wharf Road, London N1 9RT T: +44 (0)20 7713 0836 E: info@canalmuseum.org.uk www.canalmuseum.uk

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alk Eat Talk Eat has truly cemented itself as one of the top five food and drink walking tours in London. If you’re a local visiting London for the first time or if you’re just visiting, Walk Eat Talk Eat will take you to where the locals go and and bypass all the tourist traps. From traditional British cuisine to foods that have been brought over by different waves of migrants, don’t miss the new and vibrant street food culture that has taken London by storm, putting it on the map as a top world food city. London has all these different styles of cuisine living side by side creating this incredible melting pot that produces an electric atmosphere. The city has pushed itself to the centre stage; will you join in the show?

he museum tells the story of London’s colorful canals, their boats, cargoes and horses, and of the families who lived afloat to make a meagre living from carrying goods. Enjoy the traditional artwork of “roses and castles”, too. A second theme is the Victorian ice trade, for which the building was built in the 1860s. Two huge ice wells remain beneath the floor and visitors can peer down and marvel at the way ice from Norway kept London’s milk cool.

OPEN: All year, Tues -Sun and bank holiday Mondays, 10am-4.30pm.

Late opening to 7.30pm on the first Thurs of each month.

ADMISSION: Adults: £5; cons: £4; children £2.50; family entry £12.50.

MUSEUMS

The Foundling Museum 40 Brunswick Square, London, WC1N 1AZ T: +44 (0)20 7841 3600 E: enquiries@foundlingmuseum.org.uk www.foundlingmuseum.org.uk

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ituated in the heart of Bloomsbury, the Foundling Museum explores the fascinating history of the Foundling Hospital, the UK’s first children’s charity and public art gallery. Discover the intriguing story behind this important institution and the children who grew up there. View original interiors, poignant artefacts, inspiring art and thought-provoking exhibitions. Why not make the most of your visit by hiring a guide, picking up a unique souvenir, or attending an event from a lively programme of concerts, workshops and talks?

OPEN: Tues to Sat 10am-5pm; Sun 11am-5pm; closed Mon. ADMISSION: Adults £10; concessions £7.50; children (U16), Foundling Friends and National Art Pass holders, free.

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The Household Cavalry Museum Horse Guards, Whitehall, London, SW1A 2AX T: +44 (0)20 7930 3070 E: museum@householdcavalry.co.uk www.householdcavalrymuseum.co.uk

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he Household Cavalry is the Monarch’s Mounted Bodyguard. They protect the Horse Guards Building, the official entrance to Buckingham Palace. The Household Cavalry Museum is your entrance into their secret world. You can even see into their working stable as they prepare the horses for their royal protection duties on Whitehall. From hourly Guard Changes to family trails and even big-kid dressing up, there’s something for everyone.

OPEN/ADMISSION: 1 April to 31 October, 10am to 6pm. 1 November to 31 March, 10am to 5pm . Adults: £8.50, concessions: £6.50, families (2+3): £22.50.

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MUSEUMS

Anaesthesia Heritage Centre 21 Portland Place, London, W1B 1PY T: +44 (0)20 7631 1650 E: heritage@aagbi.org www.aagbi.org/heritage Twitter: @AAGBI_Heritage Facebook: AAGBIheritagecentre

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he Anaesthesia Heritage Centre is a unique medical science museum devoted to the history of anaesthesia, resuscitation and pain relief. It’s located in the heart of London, near Oxford Circus. The centre is home to a museum, rare book collection and archive which are unique resources for curious visitors and specialist researchers. A new exhibition, Doctor Says Relax, explores the Amazonian arrow poison curare, and its history as a muscle relaxant in anaesthesia.

OPEN: The Anaesthesia Heritage Centre is open Monday to Friday, 10-4.

Guided tours may be available if you book in advance.

ADMISSION: Free entry. Group bookings available for a small fee – education group visits are free of charge. Booking in advance is essential via email or phone call.

Dr Johnson’s House 17 Gough Square, London, EC4A 3DE T: +44 (0)20 7353 3745 www.drjohnsonshouse.org

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r Johnson’s House is a charming 300-year-old townhouse, nestled amongst a maze of courts and alleys in the historic City of London. Samuel Johnson, the writer and wit, lived and worked here in the middle of the eighteenth century, compiling his great Dictionary of the English Language in the Garret, amongst other significant works.

According to The Oxford Dictionary of Quotations, Johnson is the second most-quoted Englishman, and he most famously said ‘...when a man is tired of London, he is tired of life’.

Today, the House is open to the public with a collection relating to Johnson, a research library, restored interiors and a wealth of original features, which include historic panelling, a fine open staircase, wooden floorboards, a quirky cellarette cupboard, coal holes and even the original door handles. The eighteenth-century front door still has its historic anti-burglary devices intact, including a heavy chain with corkscrew latch and spiked iron bar over the fanlight.

Try on our Georgian costumes and explore with the family trail, mull over Johnson’s great Dictionary in the Garret where it was written or simply relax in the Library and soak up the peaceful atmosphere. Often described by visitors as a hidden gem, 17 Gough Square is a tranquil spot in the midst of the bustling City.

OPEN: October to April, 11am to 5pm and May to September 11am to 5.30pm ADMISSION: Adults: £7, children: £3.50.

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LONDON

18 Stafford Terrace 18 Stafford Terrace, London W8 7BH T:+44 (0)20 7602 3316 E: museums@rbkc.gov.uk www.rbkc.gov.uk/Museums

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rom 1875, 18 Stafford Terrace was the home of Punch cartoonist Edward Linley Sambourne, his wife Marion, their two children and their live-in servants. The house gives an insight into the Sambourne family and also provides a rare example of what was known as an ‘Aesthetic interior’ or ‘House Beautiful’ style. The Aesthetic Movement advocated the use of foreign or ‘exotic’ influences; this can be seen by the various Japanese, Middle-Eastern and Chinese objects throughout the Sambournes’ house.

The interiors have remained practically intact throughout the years and are very much a product of Linley’s taste. For Linley, the acquisition of objects, and furniture was an almost obsessive enthusiasm.

Edward Linley Sambourne (1844-1910) joined the popular satirical magazine Punch in 1867 when he was just 23, where he continued to contribute weekly until the year before his death. He illustrated many books, including the 1885 edition of Charles Kingsley’s Water Babies, and a collection of Hans Christian Andersen’s fairy tales.

OPEN: September to June, Wednesdays, Saturdays and Sundays. Guided tours 11am – 12.30pm.

Public Access 2-5.30pm.

ADMISSION: Adults £7-12, concessions £5-£8.

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MUSEUMS

Explore Victorian London at the Jack the Ripper Museum The museum is a dedicated to the history of the East London in the 1880s, providing a serious examination of the crimes of Jack the Ripper within the social context of the period. For the first time it tells the story of the man known as ‘Jack the Ripper’ from the perspective of six of the women who were his victims. Come along and see if you can work out who Jack was!

Jack the Ripper E Museum l e s t1 r2 e c e

xplore Victorian London at the Jack the Ripper Museum. The museum is dedicated to the history of east London in the 1880s, providing a thorough examination of the crimes of Jack the Ripper within the social context of the period. Six fascinating floors recreate scenes from the time.

Investigate the murder scene in Mitre Square, a gentleman’s sitting room (would Jack’s have looked like this?), Whitechapel police station, Mary Jane Kelly’s bedroom, the mortuary and much more. l o explore n dtheo n ,you will E discover 1 8everything J G there is to know about the lives of the victims, As you museum, p main e r m inuthesmurders, e uthem . investigation c o mand the daily life of those living in the East End in the suspects police 1888. Once you have all the clues, will you be able to solve the mystery of Jack the Ripper? As you make your way upstairs, you will see details of each murder on the walls. Take in the victims’ names, ages and murder locations, read newspaper reports and examine illustrations of the crimes.

Jack the Ripper Museum, situated in a historic Victorian house in the heart of Whitechapel, tells the full story of the Jack the Ripper murders. Step back in time to 19th-century London, a thriving capital city, where the greatest unsolved crimes of all time took place.

a b t a ,b ll eo n s d t r o ene, . j a c k tw hw e rwi . pj p a ec rk m t u h se er 12 Cable Street, London E1 8JG 2 atc3pmaat b l e s shop t r Daily walk1starting Traders Gate gift Tower Hillw tubew endsw 4.30pm . jbook a online c k t h T: +44 (0)207 488 9811 www.jacktherippermuseum.com

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ACCOMMODATION

OPEN: Daily, except 25 Dec. 9.30am-6.30pm ADMISSION: Adults £12, children £8, seniors £8.

Florence Nightingale Museum

The Independent Traveller Apartments

St Thomas’ Hospital, 2 Lambeth Palace Road, London, SE1 7EW T: +44 (0)20 7188 4400 E: info@florence-nightingale.co.uk www.florence-nightingale.co.uk

T: + 44 (0)1392 860807 E: help@gowithit.co.uk www.visitapartmentslondon.co.uk

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lorence Nightingale was the founder of modern nursing, one of our greatest Victorians and a female icon in her own lifetime. Explore the museum to discover all about Florence’s affluent childhood, how she fought to become a nurse, her work during the Crimean War and how she campaigned for better healthcare for ordinary people. See the actual lamp she carried which earned her the nickname The Lady With The Lamp, meet her pet owl and explore her medicine chest.

OPEN: Daily 10am-5pm (last entry 4.30pm). Closed: 22-27 December, 31 December and 1 January.

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ook your London apartment the safe and easy way. Established in 1980, The Independent Traveller is a family business with a selection of apartments, from studios to four-bedroom apartments to suit every budget.

We offer a personal yet fast booking service - simply email us your dates , number of guests and any particular requirements , and we’ll reply with available suggestions to suit your party.

OPEN: Available all year, from 3 nights to 3 months or more RATES: Studios/1 bedroom from £100 per night; 2 bedroom apartments from £175 per night; 3/4 bedroom apartments from £250 per night. No booking fees.

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accommodation

Albro House Hotel 155 Sussex Gardens, Hyde Park, London W2 2RY T: +44 (0)20 7724 2931 / +44 (0)20 7706 8153 E: albrohotellondon@gmail.com www.albrohotel.co.uk

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ocated near Hyde Park, with easy access to public transport and convenient for sightseeing and shopping. Comfortable, cosy, newly re-furbished ensuite rooms, with Freeview TV, tea/coffee welcome tray, phone, radio, and hairdryer.

Friendly, efficient service. Quiet, relaxed atmosphere. Some parking. Families and small groups welcome. Tours booked. Free daytime luggage storage. Free WiFi. Discounts for booking direct with hotel.

Coach House Rentals

15%

Receive discount on our 2020 edition* Contact: James Davis on 0207 349 3795 or email: james.davis@chelseamagazines.com * before August 2019

T: +44 (0) 20 8355 3192 E: mail@chsrentals.com www.chsrentals.com

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ive like a local. Stay in one of our vacation rentals and spend your holiday in a real London home – you will have the place to yourself and we provide a full concierge service, including arranging an airport transfer.

With some 50 hand-picked London holiday rental properties and the services of our experienced reservation team, we can help you choose what’s right for you, taking the hassle and frustration out of choosing and booking your ideal London holiday home.

Join the many thousands of happy guests we’ve looked after since 2001.

Carlton Court 10 Down St, Mayfair, London W1J 7AL T: +44 (0)207 493 0597 www.carltoncourt.com

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arlton Court Mayfair is proud to offer you a selection of self-contained luxury short stay apartments, serviced seven days a week, you have everything under one roof with amenities that includes high speed WiFi, 24 hours a day on site, wheel chair accessible, full international satellite, air conditioning and security that is available 24 hours a day 7 days a week. You get more than a hotel and with loads more space, all within the in the heart of Mayfair, just off Park Lane. These fantastically price apartments that include one-, two- and three bedroom apartments, all with separate spacious bedrooms, living rooms, fully fitted kitchens, bathrooms with power showers and direct lift access all included!

You can stay in our amazing five-bedroom ambassadorial townhouse just around the corner. This is ideal for short/long term stays. Both the apartments and house are also available for long term lets too.

Carlton Court is just off the landmark locations of Knightsbridge, Park Lane, Piccadilly and Oxford Street. The most popular areas in London are within just a few minutes walk of our luxury apartments. You can stroll to Bond Street, Oxford Street or take a short walk to Buckingham Palace – the location is perfect.

Irrespective of whether you choose our luxury serviced apartments or our stunning house, you will enjoy our inclusive services. If you are looking for big accommodation in the central London area, then you can book our exclusive serviced apartments at an extremely competitive rates – please enquire to find out more.

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ACCOMMODATION

Danubius Hotel Regents Park 18 Lodge Road St. John’s Wood, NW8 7JT T: +44 (0)20 772 27722 E: reservation@danubiuslondon.co.uk www.danubiushotels.com

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anubius Hotel Regent’s Park is a central London hotel with a difference. Situated in central London, we pride ourselves on offering a real home from home for business and leisure travellers alike.

Conveniently located a mere 10-minute walk from St John’s Wood and Baker Street tube stations, this four-star London hotel offers easy access to all the West End attractions. It’s also near to three iconic London landmarks: Lord’s Cricket Ground, Regent’s Park, and the renowned Wellington Hospital.

Whether you are looking for a pint of beer, a cocktail or a glass of Champagne to celebrate a special occasion, head straight to the hotel’s Pavilion Lounge Bar. With its elegant interiors, comfortable sofas and live piano music, it is the ideal place to sit back and relax after a long day of sightseeing in the city or business meetings and conferences.

For a 10% discount on our best available rates: quote DISCOVER10. Offer valid for bookings made before 31st March 2019 and taking place before 30th December 2019. Subject to Availability. Standard Terms and Conditions apply.

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ACCOMMODATION

London Marriott Hotel County Hall Westminster Bridge Road, London, SE1 7PB T: +44 (0)20 79285200 www.marriottcountyhall.com

www.britain-magazine.com

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hen it comes to exceptional luxury stays in the heart of the city, London Marriott Hotel County Hall is the ultimate five-star destination. Dating back to 1922, this landmark building was formerly the headquarters of London County Council. The redesign restored the building to its original glory, celebrating its rich history with features including vaulted ceilings and wood panelled chambers.

The hotel offers 206 spacious guest rooms and suites created from original offices, 2 restaurants, 1 bar, a 600sqm gym with 25m indoor pool and 11 Grade II-listed meeting and social events spaces. Celebrate your London stay with views overlooking Big Ben and the London Eye and experience the charm and rich culture of South Bank.

Enjoy traditional afternoon tea in the historic Library amongst oak bookcases and over 4000 original books, taking in the Houses of Parliament as your vista or dine in the signature restaurant Gillray’s Steakhouse & Bar, with some of the best steak offers in London. Reserve your room with a view now in the heart of London at www.marriottcountyhall.com or call 0044 (0)20 7928 5200 to make a reservation.

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ATTRACTIONS

Bletchley Park Bletchley, Milton Keynes, MK3 6EB Just 40 minutes by train from London Euston T: +44 (0)1908 640404 E: enquiries@bletchleypark.org.uk www.bletchleypark.org.uk

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letchley Park is the historic home of British codebreaking and a birthplace of modern information technology. It played a major role in the Second World War, producing secret intelligence which had a direct and profound influence on the outcome of the conflict. Now an internationally renowned site and accredited museum with immersive exhibitions, activities and events, visitors can discover the stories of the incredible men and women whose vital work here stayed secret for so long.

NEW FOR 2019 D-Day: Interception, Intelligence, Invasion: 75 years on, the full scale of Bletchley Park’s top secret impact on the planning and implementation of D-Day is to be revealed in a new immersive cinematic experience.

The exhibition will explain the vital importance of the ULTRA intelligence produced at Bletchley Park, and the impact it had on one of the most important military operations of the twentieth-century. Opens April 2019.

OPEN: Every day, see website for more details and to book.

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ATTRACTIONS

S ECRETCI NEMAPRES ENT S

Previous show - Secret Cinema Presents Blade Runner – The Final Cut: A Secret Live Experience

Secret Cinema Secret London Location E: info@secretcinema.org www.secretcinema.org

Previous show – Secret Cinema Presents Baz Luhrmann’s Moulin Rouge

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or over a decade, Secret Cinema has thrilled audiences with its ground-breaking experiences that combine film, music, art, and theatre through iconic and beloved films.

This year, the team at Secret Cinema are reimagining the world of a legendary British spy with the critically-acclaimed film Casino Royale (2006), giving audiences an opportunity to experience the world and character of James Bond like never before. A secret London location will be transformed into the clandestine, glamorous and action-packed world of Ian Fleming’s seminal spy. Blurring the lines between fiction and reality, the experience will bring-to-life awe-inspiring scenes and locations.

A completely unique, immersive film experience that promises to be one of the highlights of the arts calendar during 2019.

OPEN: Secret Cinema Presents Casino Royal - open from June 2019.

Wednesday – Thursday 6pm to 11pm; Friday – Saturday 6pm to 12am; Sunday 4pm – 9pm.

ADMISSION: Regular tickets from £40 - £125.

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attractions

The Emirates Aviation Experience 3 Edmund Halley Way, Greenwich, SE10 0FR T: +44 (0)20 3440 7020 E: info@aviation-experience.com www.aviation-experience.com

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he Emirates Aviation Experience offers visitors a unique insight into the world of modern commercial aviation as well as the opportunity to take to the skies in the world’s first public facing commercial flight simulators of their kind; two Airbus A380s and two Boeing B777s. Feel like a pilot and practise your take-off and landing skills at ten of the most popular destinations worldwide.

The attraction is right next to the Emirates Air Line Cable Car that goes over the River Thames and only minutes away from North Greenwich Tube Station.

OPEN: 1 April to 30 September, 10am to 7pm, and 1 October to 30 March, 10am to 6pm. Café opens at 9am throughout the year. ADMISSION: Adults: £5, children: £3, carers and children under 6: free, Simulator Experience from £60.

It is highly recommended to book in advance online.

The Luna Cinema Across the UK T: +44 (0)844 858 6767 E: info@thelunacinema.com www.thelunacinema.com

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ondon’s no.1 open air cinema returns for 2019 with an incredible season of screenings taking place at some of the capital’s most magical settings, including Kensington Palace, Westminster Abbey, Kenwood House, Fulham Palace and Regent’s Park Open Air Theatre. With screenings of this year’s hits, including A Star Is Born, Mary Poppins Returns and Bohemian Rhapsody, alongside all your favourite classics, get ready to dig out your picnic blankets for the ultimate summer of cinema under the stars!

OPEN: This summer.

Tunbridge Wells T: +44 (0)1892 515675 www.visittunbridgewells.com

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xplore the charming Royal Tunbridge Wells, historic spa town in an Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty.

Royal Tunbridge Wells lies at the heart of one of the most scenic stretches of countryside in England, nestled in the unspoilt beauty of the Weald.

Retaining much of the charm of its Georgian heyday, Royal Tunbridge Wells and the surrounding area remain a favourite destination for those who want to enjoy elegant surroundings and easy access to the countryside and quaint country villages within an hour’s train ride from the hustle and bustle of London.

From spa breaks to rural rambles, from cosy country pubs to food and live music festivals, there is plenty for visitors to experience across the region.

The Pantiles, the famous white colonnaded walkway and historic heart of Royal Tunbridge Wells is buzzing with unique boutiques and cafés. This is also the site of the original Chalybeate Spring, discovered in 1606. Its reputation for health-giving properties was the reason for the growth of the town as a fashionable place to visit .

There is a higher concentration of castles, historic houses and gardens than any other area in England, making Tunbridge Wells the perfect base for a short break for those who want to explore the reputable Garden of England. It not only has more than its fair share of the country’s top gardens, but also has a number of secret gardens.

Notable gems include: Penshurst Place, Hever Castle, Scotney Castle, Hole Park, Pashley Manor and Groombrige Place, as well as the world famous Sissinghurst Castle Garden.

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ATTRACTIONS

Discover South Kensington South Kensington, London SW7 T: +44 (0)7942 5320 E: info@exhibitionroad.com www.discoversouthken.com

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outh Kensington is London’s home for science and art. The area we know today is the legacy from the first world trade fair in 1851 – the success of this ‘Great Exhibition’ led to the creation of the world’s first cultural district in South Kensington. It was organised for the Exhibition of 1851 by The Royal Commission who still play an active part in the estate today.

Every day our museums, galleries, concert halls and cultural venues offer an incredible programme of exhibitions, displays, performances, music, guided tours, talks, family activities and lots more.

Venues in the area include: the Natural History Museum, the Science Museum, the Victoria & Albert Museum, Royal Albert Hall, Serpentine Galleries, the Design Museum, Institut français, Imperial College London, Goethe-Institut, Kensington Palace, the Royal Parks, Japan House London, Royal College of Music, the Royal Society of Sculptors, the Ismaili Centre and others.

Discover South Kensington aims to make it easier for everyone to find out what you can do in the area by highlighting what’s on with itineraries, trails, blogs and competitions on our website.

Discovery is at the core of what happens here.

St Martinin-the-Fields Trafalgar Square, London, WC2N 4JJ T: +44 (0) 20 7766 1100 E: info@smitf.org www.smitf.org

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t the beautiful St Martin-in-the-Fields church, visitors are welcome to soak up the stunning Georgian architecture and take in a special event or a service. This London landmark has a rich musical heritage and offers three free lunchtime concerts, four ticketed evening concerts and a jazz night every week.

Head downstairs to discover London’s hidden café - the Café in the Crypt and savour a light breakfast, lunch, afternoon tea or dinner. Visitors can also browse our range of Fairtrade, unique and affordable gifts and souvenirs in the shop. Or try traditional brass rubbing for creative family fun with an historical twist! Our collection of over 100 replica brasses from churches and cathedrals across the UK includes medieval knights in armour, fire-breathing dragons, damsels in distress as well St George and William Shakespeare. Once you have made your selection our team is on hand to provide specialist paper, a choice of metallic waxes and to demonstrate how it is done. Then it is up to you to get creative.

OPEN: The church is open daily and is free to visit. The Café in the Crypt is open every day except Christmas Day and Boxing Day. Check website for further details.

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FOOD, DRINK AND SHOPPING

Tea and Tattle Tea Rooms

Chez Antoinette

41 Great Russell Street, London, WC1B 3PE T: +44 (0) 7722 192703 E: teaandtattle@googlemail.com www.apandtea.co.uk

30 The Market Building, Covent Garden T: +44 (0)207 2409 072 E: aurelia@chezantoinette.co.uk www.chezantoinette.co.uk

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OPEN: Tea and Tattle is open Monday to Friday from 9am until 6.30pm.

On Saturday it is open from 12pm until 5pm. Reservations welcome.

OPEN: Mon-Thu 9.45am-9pm; Fri-Sat 9.45am-11.00pm; Sun 9.45am-8.00pm.

Twizy ToursGPS guided audio tours and

Classic British Fountain Pens

ea and Tattle is a unique yet traditional tea room that is full of charm.

Located opposite the British Museum in Bloomsbury, it is the perfect place to stop off and enjoy a delicious lunch or afternoon tea. You can choose from an exciting assortment of loose leaf teas, fresh coffee, smoothies, sandwiches, pastries, scones, jams and various home-made cakes. The tea room is entered through the family-run book shop and gallery, which was established in 1903.

rentals from £29.99 21 Bryanston Street, Paddington, London W1H 7AB per hour from Marble Arch.T&C apply.

T: +44 (0)7376 428363 E: Info@twizytours.com www.twizytours.com Visit twizytours.com for details and bookings or ask your concierge.

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or all those looking for fun and adventure whilst learning about history, heritage and culture, this experience is for you.

In the adorable, easy to drive, 2-seater electric Renault Twizy, discover what London has to offer as you drive through the streets guided by our GPS navigation and accompanied by our interactive audio guide system delivering fun facts and stories on the go. Alternatively, you can rent a Twizy without a tour and explore at your own pace.

Twizy Tours connects the driver and companion to the city offering a tour experience that captures the very heart and soul of what London has to offer.

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s a child, my grandmother used to prepare delicious tartines in her kitchen for me. Having lived in London for 10 years, I became homesick and those memories came fluttering back. After a while, it became clear to me that I had to put all my hard work into my dream of recreating my childhood. So, here I am, Chez Antoinette, serving delicious authentic dishes. Every piece of antique furniture and crockery has been personally acquired from all over the country, and it now sits in Chez Antoinette, providing the atmosphere of my childhood.

T: +44 (0)333 006 4646 E: sales@.bespokebritishpens.co.uk www.bespokebritishpens.co.uk

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exts and emails are great, but there are occasions when only a handwritten note will do. Rediscover the delights of ink on paper with a classic British pen, handmade in the heart of England.

Bespoke British Pens offer nearly 100 British-made fountain pens including classic brands like Conway Stewart, as well as iconic models such as the Churchill, the Winston, the Shakespeare, the Doctor’s Pen and the Lawyer’s Pen. With their elegant designs and outstanding quality, they are a pleasure to use and a delight to own. Rollerballs, pencils and ballpoint pens are also available.

Your pen will always remind you of your trip to London.

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FOOD, DRINK AND SHOPPING

City of London Distillery Gin Tour and Tasting or Gin Lab Experience 22-24 Bride Lane, London, EC4Y8DT T: +44 (0)2079363636 E: enquiries@cityoflondondistillery.com www.cityoflondondistillery.com

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he City of London Distillery Gin Tour and Tasting includes a gin and tonic on arrival, followed by a talk on the history and production of gin and a tour of our distillery.

This is broken up by a tasting of the other products that we produce. The experience lasts around an hour and 15 minutes and at the end we offer £5 off a bottle of City of London Gin from our shop (available on that day only).

The City of London Distillery Gin Lab Experience includes a gin and tonic on arrival, followed by an introduction to gin and its production. We will then talk you through the various botanicals used in gin and you’ll get to design your own recipe. We then head into the gin lab where we distil you your very own bottle of gin in one of our miniature stills. You will be able to try the gin before you leave and take home a full 700ml bottle of the gin that you made which will also have a personalised label and wax dip seal.

GIN TOUR AND TASTING: Mon & Tues 6pm, Wed & Fri 4.30pm, 6pm & 7.30pm, Sat 3.30pm, 5.30pm, 7pm & 8.30pm. Max 16 people. £25 per person.

GIN LAB EXPERIENCE : Wed & Fri 2pm, Sat 12pm & 13pm. Max 10 people. £125 per person.

The Roberson Winery 21/27 Seagrave Road, London SW6 T: +44 (0)7381 7870 www.robersonwine.com

T

ake a walk around central London’s first winery and taste wine made right here in the heart of the capital.

A unique winemaking space in the heart of London, the Roberson Winery is both London’s first, fully-operational, urban winery, and an incredible place to visit on one of our regular tours.

The wines we make have won multiple awards - and are listed at some of the most prestigious restaurants in the capital. A visit to the winery offers a unique wine-tasting experience without having to leave London.

Our Welcome to the Winery event is a relaxed and entertaining introduction to our very own working winery. The tour is designed to unravel a few of the mysteries behind winemaking and allow you to taste exceptional wine made in London. Learn about the grape’s journey from vineyard to bottle and the secrets of making wine. Finish off with a guided tasting of award-winning wines and get answers to those burning wine questions you’ve always wanted to ask.

OPEN: Selected dates, please book your tour through the website.

ADMISSION: £20pp, £18 with code BRIT19 at checkout. Over-18s only.

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LONDON | 2019 GUIDE

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Look for the Tax Refund sign when you shop at LDO