Britain November/December 2022 - Sample

As the nation enters a new, post-Elizabethan era, this issue we remember our late Queen’s life and remarkable reign. We visit Balmoral in Royal Deeside, where she spent her happiest times, and where her 70-year reign ended (Highland haven, p16); we explore the post of Poet Laureate, writer of verses for the monarch at times of national signi cance (Royal rhymes, p41); and following the Queen’s magni cent funeral, we delve into the traditions involved in state funerals, and reveal how the pomp and ceremony has evolved over the centuries (Pageantry & majesty, p56)

Elsewhere this issue, we step back in time to Regency London (p27), the backdrop to much of the romance and scandal of the era, and uncover the stories behind Britain’s abandoned stately homes and villages (Lost property, p34). And as ever, we travel to some of the country’s most scenic spots – including the beautiful cathedral city of Salisbury (City guide, p75) and the timeless Test Valley in Hampshire (Passing the Test, p66) Enjoy the issue!

CONTENTS

VOLUME 90 ISSUE 6

FEATURES

14 IN MEMORY OF QUEEN ELIZABETH II

Natasha Foges Editor

As the nation mourns the Queen’s passing, we pay tribute to her remarkable life and reign

16 HIGHLAND HAVEN

The Queen spent her final days at Balmoral in Royal Deeside, a beautiful part of Aberdeenshire whose royal connections stretch back to Queen Victoria

27 REGENCY LONDON

Where did the Ton, the high-living aristocrats of the late Regency period, spend their time?

34 LOST PROPERTY

Britain’s abandoned stately homes and villages cannot fail to stir the imagination. And each has its own human story to tell

41 ROYAL RHYMES

The role of Poet Laureate was first awarded four centuries ago, but how has it evolved?

49 DECK THE HALLS

Soak up the atmosphere of Yuletides past in a stately home decorated for Christmas

Balmoral Castle

REGULARS

6 LETTERS

Share your stories and memories of Britain

9 THE BULLETIN

A glimpse of Roman Britain, Richard III remembered, and a festive display

24 COMPETITION

Win a luxury stay in Royal Deeside

75 CITY GUIDE: SALISBURY

Home to the tallest cathedral spire in Britain and the world’s best-preserved Magna Carta, Salisbury is a historic treasure trove

80 A DAY WITH...

Charlotte Lloyd Webber, whose creative displays light up Castle Howard at Christmas

82 THE GREAT BRITISH QUIZ

Test your knowledge of Britain’s landmarks

FEATURES

56 PAGEANTRY & MAJESTY

The grand state funeral for Britain’s longest-serving monarch drew on royal traditions and ceremonies that date back centuries

63 SANDWICH

One of Britain’s best-preserved medieval settlements, this pretty Kent town has a fascinating history

66 PASSING THE TEST

The timeless Test Valley, criss-crossed with chalk rivers and dotted with quaint villages, sits in a landscape that’s long been revered for its pastoral beauty

www.britain-magazine.com

BRITAIN is the official magazine of VisitBritain, the national tourism agency.

BRITAIN is published by The Chelsea Magazine Company Ltd, Jubilee House, 2 Jubilee Place, London SW3 3TQ

Tel: 020 7349 3700

Email: info@britain-magazine.com

Editorial

Editor Natasha Foges

Art Editor Petra Manley-Leach

Assistant Editor Henrietta Easton

Advertising

Group Sales Director Catherine Chapman

Head of Sales Operations Jodie Green

Advertising Manager Daisy Welch

Senior Sales Executive Melissa Arancio

Publishing Chairman Paul Dobson

Managing Director James Dobson

Publisher Simon Temlett

Chief Financial Officer Vicki Gavin

EA to Chairman Sophie Easton

Subs Marketing Executive Bret Weekes

For VisitBritain Sarah Wagner

Printed in England by William Gibbons Ltd

Production All Points Media

SUBSCRIPTION ENQUIRIES

USA and Canada: www.britsubs.com/britain Tel: 1-888-321-6378 (toll free)

Email: btncustserv@cdsfulfillment.com

Post: BRITAIN PO Box 37518, Boone, IA 50037-0518 (USA only); OR BRITAIN 1415 Janette Avenue, Windsor, Ontario N8X 1Z1 (Canada only)

UK and Rest of World: www.subscription.co.uk/chelsea/help Tel: +44 (0) 1858 438 878

Email: britain@subscription.co.uk

Post: BRITAIN CDS Global, Sovereign Park, Market Harborough, LE16 9EF, UK

Did you know you can manage your subscription online?

Oversee your print and digital subscriptions online today simply by signing up at https://www. subscription.co.uk/chelsea/solo/. Stay up to date with the latest issues, update your personal details, and even renew your subscription with just a click.

Annual subscription rates (6 issues)

UK – £35; Europe – £45 USA and Canada – US $75 Australia – AUD $105 Rest of World – £55 www.britain-magazine/subscribe Back issues

www.chelseamagazines.com/shop News distribution USA and Canada: NPS Media Group, 2 Enterprise Drive, Suite 420, Shelton, CT 06484. UK and Rest of World: Seymour, 2 East Poultry Avenue, London EC1A 9PT, UK Tel: +44 (0)20 7429 4000

BRITAIN (ISSN 1757-9732) (USPS 004-335)

is published bi-monthly by The Chelsea Magazine Company, Jubilee House, 2 Jubilee Place, London SW3 3TQ, UK Distributed in the US by NPS Media Group, 2 Enterprise Drive, Suite 420, Shelton, CT 06484. Periodicals postage paid at Shelton, CT and other mailing offices.

POSTMASTER: Send address changes to BRITAIN PO Box 37518, Boone, IA 50037-0518

Publications Mail Agreement Number 41599077, 1415 Janette Ave, Windsor, ON N8X 1Z1. Canadian GST

Registered Number 834045627 RT0001

© The Chelsea Magazine Company Ltd., 2022. All rights reserved. Text and pictures are copyright restricted and must not be reproduced without permission of the publishers

The information contained in BRITAIN has been published in good faith and every effort has been made to ensure its accuracy. However, where appropriate, you are strongly advised to check prices, opening times, dates, etc, before making final arrangements. All liability for loss, disappointment, negligence or damage caused by reliance on the information contained within this publication is hereby excluded.

The opinions expressed by contributors to BRITAIN are not necessarily those of the publisher or VisitBritain.

www.britain-magazine.com

YOUR LETTERS

Write to us with your thoughts on the magazine and memories of Britain

LAND OF LEGENDS

While watching the beautiful farewell to our beloved Queen Elizabeth II, and seeing your article on Paddington [Vol 90 Issue 5], I painted, during that incredibly moving weekend, my tribute to a much loved Queen. The TV skit brought our Queen so alive and unforgettable. The painting is called Thank you Ma’am…. for everything. And thank YOU!

Katherine S. Brown, Toronto, Canada

I always enjoy BRITAIN, especially the September issue [Vol 90 Issue 4] and the article on King Arthur. ‘Artor’ (Welsh for ‘the bear’) was the battle name for Owain Ddantgwyn, a 5th-6th century king of Britain who battled the Saxons and the subject of Graham Phillips’ books, King Arthur: The True Story and The Lost Tomb of King Arthur. Arthur’s father, Uther Pendragon, ‘the Red Dragon’, is remembered today in the flag of Wales and the bear as the symbol of the Earls of Warwick. As my 3rd grade teacher told my class in 1955, Behind every myth and legend, there is a kernel of truth. So it is with Arthur. Thanks again for a marvelous magazine that I always enjoy reading.

Joan Wickham Sugg, Tarboro, North Carolina, USA

MEMORIES OF THE TITANIC

Your article on Belfast’s Titanic legacy [Vol 90 Issue 5] brought back memories of our Pirrie Family gathering centred around the 100th anniversary of the launch of the RMS Titanic on 31 May 2011. Lord Pirrie, the grandson of Captain William and Eliza (Morrison) Pirrie and first cousin to my great grandfather, was the head of Harland & Wolff, the world’s largest shipbuilding firm. H & W had partnered with the White Star Line to build the Titanic. His nephew, Thomas Andrews, was the major design architect of the ship. Sadly, Andrews perished in the sinking of the ship among 1,517 others, many of whom had been workers at Harland & Wolff.

A short service offered our family prayers on the Belfast docks at 7am on 31 May 2011.

Movingly, at that time all the ships in Belfast Harbour sounded their horns to remember both the launch of the Titanic and the gathering of our family. Today, many of the family remain in the Belfast area and the rest are scattered across the UK, Europe, Canada, South Africa, the USA and Australia.

Sandra Thorne, Rothesay, NB, Canada

& from our Facebook followers...

...some memories of Queen Elizabeth II:

I was among the crowd with my parents who saw Her Majesty on the balcony of Buckingham Palace on the last day of the Platinum Jubilee celebrations in June. A memory I will always treasure and it was the loudest time I’d sung God save the Queen Max Beale

I have travelled from California to the UK more than any other region in the world. I’ve visited Windsor Castle twice, Buckingham Palace, and Sandringham in Norfolk, simply to know I am standing in the homes of the beloved Queen Elizabeth II. I wish I had caught a glimpse of her.

Polly Curtis

Our star letter wins The Shortest History of the Crown by Stephen Bates, a lively commentary on a 1,800-year story, providing dazzling insight into royal custom and ritual (£12.99, oldstreetpublishing.co.uk).

The BULLETIN

A glimpse of Roman Britain, Richard III remembered, and a festive display

OPENING

Rome in a day

One of Britain’s finest hotels, The Newt, a Georgian manor set in a magnificent 1000-acre country estate, has upped its offering with the opening of a reconstructed RomanoBritish villa found on the estate, dating back to 351 AD. Villa Ventorum, translating to ‘Villa of The Winds’, is the most

ambitious reconstruction of a Roman villa ever undertaken in Britain. Visitors will enjoy a sensory experience of life in a Roman Britain household, including the sights, sounds and smells of its daily rituals, and you can even book a Roman food tasting to complete the experience. thenewtinsomerset.

ANNIVERSARY

King in the car park

In 2012, having been lost for more than half a century, the remains of King Richard III, who was killed at the Battle of Bosworth in 1485 but whose body was never found, were finally discovered in a car park in Leicester. Ten years on, a new comedy-drama film The Lost King, starring Sally Hawkins and Steve Coogan, tells the story of Phillipa Langley, who took on the country’s most eminent historians and whose persistence resulted in one of the most important archaeological discoveries in British history. The Lost King also aims to tell the story of the controversial King Richard. Villainous or misunderstood –that’s for you to decide… The Lost King will be in UK cinemas from 7 October, and in US cinemas later in the year.

SHOPPING

Garden Pottering

Gardening enthusiasts, animal lovers and Beatrix Potter fans alike will adore these charming fine bone china mugs from the V&A museum shop (£10). Celebrating the museum’s recent exhibition Beatrix Potter: Drawn to Nature, in collaboration with the National Trust, the whimsical watercolour depicts a group of busy guinea pigs dressed to the nines, and hard at work in the garden. Perfect for enjoying a cup of tea outdoors, just as Beatrix would have done.

www.vam.ac.uk/shop

EVENT

Winter wonderland

This Christmas, Winchester Cathedral’s light and sound show Star of Wonder is set to be a mesmerising experience of light, colour and music inside the beautiful and historic cathedral (13-18 December). The award-winning artistic collaboration Luxmuralis will take visitors on an uplifting and magical journey as they immerse themselves in a sky full of stars, walk through stunning light projections, and hear bespoke music installations, filling the sacred space and transforming the architecture of the majestic building. What better way to get into the Christmas spirit?

www.winchester-cathedral.org.uk

A set of rare 18th-century tapestries which had been cut up by their Victorian owner have recently returned to their historic home, Tudor mansion The Vyne, in Hampshire. The tapestries are believed to have been created by John Vanderbank, the leading weaver of the time, and reflect the period’s romanticised view of Asian art and culture, with monkeys, wild cats and fantastical deities. In the 19th century, The Vyne’s owner cut up the tapestries to line the walls of his new billiard room and, years later, they were removed from the house when a leak threatened to damage them. After extensive conservation, the tapestries are back in their rightful place, showing their vivid colours and designs more clearly than ever.

www.nationaltrust.org.uk

Life’s rich tapestry

Richard,

Set between the two buildings of the Old Royal Naval College in Greenwich, London, the Queen’s House was England's first classical building, built in the 17th-century by architect Inigo Jones for Anne of Denmark, as a gift from her husband, James I.

To mark the ten-year anniversary of the discovery of Richard III’s remains, an exhibition at the Wallace Collection will explore how Richard has been imagined through history. One of history’s most notorious villains since the 16th century, he has been portrayed as a usurper and a murderer, his physical deformities exaggerated to

Four hundred years later, the splendid royal villa is due to reopen on 11 October following extensive renovations, which have seen an overhaul to the galleries housing its famous

collection of art – including key works by Gainsborough and Hogarth – and original features, such as the Tulip Staircase. If that’s not reason enough to visit, it is likely to be the home of the historic Armada portrait of Queen Elizabeth I (pictured above), one of the most iconic images of any British monarch. The painting has been the subject of intensive fundraising to save it for the nation since it was put up for sale. With the

further disdain his memory, but modern scholarship has shown that in many ways he was a capable and compassionate monarch. The exhibition (until 8 January 2023) will use objects to explore what we know of the king and why history has treated him so badly. www.wallacecollection.org

These little rolls are perfect for using up the flesh of a scooped-out pumpkin lantern

RECIPE

Pumpkin Rolls

Britain’s favourite TV cooking show, The Great British Bake Off (The Great British Baking Show in the US), returns this autumn. Why not join in with a recipe from A Bake for All Seasons (£22; www.littlebrown.co.uk)? The book includes recipes from Prue, Paul and the 2021 bakers, so you can create your own culinary masterpieces at home.

Ingredients:

500g strong white bread flour

7g fast-action dried yeast

2 tsp caster sugar

1 tsp salt

1/4 tsp ground turmeric

225–250ml whole milk, plus 1 tbsp to glaze

150g pumpkin purée

2 tbsp olive oil

1 egg, to glaze

6–7 walnut halves, cut in half

12–14 pieces of fine kitchen string, each about 60–70cm long (1 per dough ball)

2 baking trays, lined with baking paper

Method:

Tip the flour into the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the dough hook. Add the yeast, sugar, salt and turmeric and mix to combine. Warm the milk until lukewarm and add it to the bowl with the pumpkin purée and olive oil. Mix on low speed until combined, then increase the speed slightly and knead for a further 5 minutes, until the dough is smooth and cleanly leaves the side of the bowl.

Shape the dough into a neat ball. Lightly oil a mixing bowl and place the dough inside. Cover and leave in a draught free place at room temperature for about 1 hour, until doubled in size. Turn out onto a lightly floured work surface. Knead lightly for 20 seconds. Divide into 12–14 portions – it doesn’t matter if they’re not the same size. Shape each into a tight, smooth and neat ball.

Lay a length of kitchen string on the work surface. Place one dough ball in the middle of the string, then bring each end up and cross them over the dough ball as if wrapping a parcel. Without tightening the string around the dough, carefully turn the dough ball over. Repeat this wrapping with the string so that it marks out 8 sections of the dough ball. Tie in a knot to secure and place the ball on a lined baking tray with the knot underneath. Repeat with the remaining balls. Cover loosely and leave to prove at room temperature for about 45 minutes, until nearly doubled in size.

Meanwhile, beat the egg with the 1 tablespoon of milk and heat the oven to 180°C/160°C fan/Gas 4. Brush the rolls with egg wash and bake for 25 minutes, until risen and deep golden brown. Leave to cool for 2–3 minutes, then snip off the string. Press a piece of walnut into the top of each pumpkin for a stalk. Leave to cool.

READING CORNER

The Game of Hearts: The lives and loves of Regency women by Felicity Day (£22, Blink Publishing). Follow six leading ladies from matchmaking to matrimony in Regency London.

The Anglo-Saxons by Marc Morris (£10.99, Penguin). The renowned medieval historian tells the extraordinary history of England’s foundations after Britain left the Roman Empire.

Queens of the Age of Chivalry by Alison Weir (£25, Penguin). In the third volume of her history of the medieval Queens of England, Weir uses personal letters to tell a remarkable story.

Secret Gardens of the South East: A private tour by Barbara Segall (£22, Quarto). A stunning photographic tour of the beguiling gardens of Kent, Sussex and Surrey.

Queen of our times: The life of Elizabeth II by Robert Hardman (£20, Pan Macmillan). A touching tribute to the inspirational life of Britain’s longestreigning monarch, by the celebrated royal biographer.

Take inspiration for your British adventures from these great reads

In memory of HM

Elizabeth

Queen

On 8 September 2022, Elizabeth II, Britain’s longest-reigning monarch, sadly passed away at Balmoral Castle. Queen of the United Kingdom of Great Britain and Northern Ireland for 70 years, Her Majesty’s tenure can be defined by a sense of duty that has made her one of the world’s most respected heads of state.

Born Princess Elizabeth Windsor on 21 April 1926, she was the first child of the Duke and Duchess of York. During the Second World War, determined to do her bit, the 18-year-old princess joined the Women’s Auxiliary Territorial Service. She married Philip Mountbatten at Westminster Abbey in 1947, then welcomed her first child, Prince Charles, in 1948, and Princess Anne, in 1950.

As the nation mourns the passing of Her Majesty Queen Elizabeth II, we pay tribute to her remarkable life and reign

Elizabeth In memory of HM

IIQueenAs the nation mourns the passing of Her Majesty Queen Elizabeth II, we pay tribute to her remarkable life and reign

reign. A public outpouring of respect for the monarch would follow in 1977 to mark her Silver Jubilee.

On 8 September 2022, Elizabeth II, Britain’s longest-reigning monarch, sadly passed away at Balmoral Castle. Queen of the United Kingdom of Great Britain and Northern Ireland for 70 years, Her Majesty’s tenure can be defined by a sense of duty that has made her one of the world’s most respected heads of state.

II ER

1926

Born Princess Elizabeth Windsor on 21 April 1926, she was the first child of the Duke and Duchess of York. During the Second World War, determined to do her bit, the 18-year-old princess joined the Women’s Auxiliary Territorial Service. She married Philip Mountbatten at Westminster Abbey in 1947, then welcomed her first child, Prince Charles, in 1948, and Princess Anne, in 1950.

Her relatively quiet life as a wife and mother came to an abrupt end in 1952 when she learned of the death of her father, King George VI, while on a royal tour of Kenya. She was crowned at the tender age of 27 in 1953, though she became Queen the moment her father died the previous year.

2022

II

1926

Another decade, the 1990s, proved more challenging. In particular, the Queen’s selfproclaimed “annus horribilis” in 1992, which saw Princess Anne divorce and Prince Andrew and Prince Charles separate from their wives amid tabloid scandal. Then, in November, a fire caused devastating damage to her favourite home, Windsor Castle. The next few years continued in a tragic vein with the death of Princess Diana in 1997 and the loss of her mother and sister in 2002. Yet the Queen would ride out these storms, charting a course to smoother waters for a modernised monarchy.

2022 —

reign. A public outpouring of respect for the monarch would follow in 1977 to mark her Silver Jubilee.

ERAnother decade, the 1990s, proved more challenging. In particular, the Queen’s selfproclaimed “annus horribilis” in 1992, which saw Princess Anne divorce and Prince Andrew and Prince Charles separate from their wives amid tabloid scandal. Then, in November, a fire caused devastating damage to her favourite home, Windsor Castle. The next few years continued in a tragic vein with the death of Princess Diana in 1997 and the loss of her mother and sister in 2002. Yet the Queen would ride out these storms, charting a course to smoother waters for a modernised monarchy.

The loss in April 2021 of Prince Philip, her beloved husband of 73 years and her “strength and stay”, marked the end of an era. Despite speculation that she planned to abdicate, the Queen continued to reign with the grace and humanity for which she was renowned.

Her family grew to include two more princes – Andrew and Edward – in the 1960s, a decade of political and social change that was overseen by Elizabeth II’s diligent

Her relatively quiet life as a wife and mother came to an abrupt end in 1952 when she learned of the death of her father, King George VI, while on a royal tour of Kenya. She was crowned at the tender age of 27 in 1953, though she became Queen the moment her father died the previous year.

14 BRITAIN Right: Famous for her brightly coloured outfits, the Queen once said, 'If I wore beige, nobody would know who I am.'

Her family grew to include two more princes – Andrew and Edward – in the 1960s, a decade of political and social change that was overseen by Elizabeth II’s diligent

Right: Famous for her brightly coloured outfits, the Queen once said, 'If I wore beige, nobody would know who

The Queen’s Platinum Jubilee in June 2022 celebrated her astonishing 70-year reign, making her the longestreigning monarch in British history. She will be dearly missed by the Royal Family; indeed, by our entire nation, and many more the world over.

The loss in April 2021 of Prince Philip, her beloved husband of 73 years and her “strength and stay”, marked the end of an era. Despite speculation that she planned to abdicate, the Queen continued to reign with the grace and humanity for which she was renowned.

The Queen’s Platinum Jubilee in June 2022 celebrated her astonishing 70-year reign, making her the longestreigning monarch in British history. She will be dearly missed by the Royal Family; indeed, by our entire nation, and many more the world over.

www.britain-magazine.com