Scotland Magazine May/June 2021

ANCESTRY • HISTORY • HERITAGE • TRAVEL

Outlander Uncovered

WIN

a Great British Holiday worth £5,000

THE REAL-LIFE LALLYBROCH plus Claire and Jamie’s other romantic locations

SIR WALTER SCOTT

The 250th anniversary of Scotland’s most celebrated writer

THE OUTER HEBRIDES

Quiet and solitude in Scotland’s remote islands

Ben Nevis The mighty mountain with its head in the clouds

THE AULD ALLIANCE

Firm friends in love and war

Crafty PEOPLE It’s not just whisky

they make on Islay

THE HIGHLAND CLEARANCES Sutherland’s dark shame ISSUE 116 May/Jun 2021 £4.95

Scottish Gourmet USA Highland Coos for You

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Simon Temlett, Awards Director simon.temlett@chelseamagazines.com © The Chelsea Magazine Company Ltd, 2021. All rights reserved. Text and pictures are copyright restricted and must not be reproduced without permission of the publishers. The information contained in Scotland magazine has been published in good faith and every effort has been made to ensure its accuracy. However, where appropriate, you are strongly advised to check prices, opening times, dates, etc, before making final arrangements. All liability for loss, disappointment, negligence or damage caused by reliance on the information contained within this publication is hereby excluded. The opinions expressed by contributors to Scotland magazine are not necessarily those of the publisher.

COVER IMAGE:

Midhope Castle © Stuart McKay Photography Inset: Sam Heughan and Caitriona Balfe in Outlander © AA Film Archive/Alamy

Editor’s letter For most of us, lockdown has meant more time at home and more time for TV. Ratings for many TV series have been up over the past year, including those of Outlander, the fantasy historical drama set against the backdrop of the Jacobite Rising of 1745.

This issue, in Scotland’s showstopper (p24), we visit Hopetoun House, one of our grandest stately homes, whose interiors and exteriors have been used during filming for Outlander and whose grounds hide perhaps the most famous of all the locations: Midhope Castle, AKA Lallybroch. We continue our theme with Outlander uncovered (p32), to bring you other Scottish destinations that may look familiar to fans of the show.

Of course, for fans of fiction, few Scottish writers hold quite the same gravitas as Sir Walter Scott, whose 250th anniversary we celebrate this year. In Great Scott (p50), we look at some of the people and places that influenced his work.

And if real-life dramas are more your thing, then The curse of the Douglas family (p38) is intriguing, while Sutherland’s shame (p72), which tells the story of the Highland Clearances in the region, is deeply moving.

Hopefully soon, we’ll have more than articles, TV series and books to help keep us connected to Scotland: The quiet isles (p14) and Crafty people (p42) are two excellently researched travel pieces that will hopefully inspire your future trips.

SALLY COFFEY

Editor

editor@scotlandmag.com

@Scotland_Mag

facebook.com/ScotlandMagazine

@scotlandmagazine

Scotland 3

48 The Outer Hebrides p14

The Highland Clearances p72

38 Ben Nevis p56

Outlander uncovered p32 Isle of Islay p42

CONTENTS ISSUE 116

14 The quiet isles Discover the Outer Hebrides, whose people hold tight to old traditions and an unrushed pace of life

24 Scotland’s showstopper A rich history combined with Outlander TV credits makes Hopetoun House a guaranteed scene-stealer

03 Editor’s letter 06 The Clan Courier Local news and the latest travel tip-offs

10 Notes from the isles Catch up with Kate Francis, who remembers her engagement and shares Cronie’s recent antics

12 We’ve got mail Your letters and stories of Scotland

32 Outlander uncovered With filming for Series 6 underway, we reveal some of the other locations used in this smash-hit drama

36 Environmental factors Our Master of Malt puts forward the argument that terroir has an impact on Scotch whisky

38 The curse of the Douglas family We recall the terrible events that have plagued the Douglas family since the 17th century

62 “Sir Walter Scott was Scotland’s first tourist officer, thanks to the power of what he wrote”

42

© SHUTTERSTOCK/NATIONAL GALLERIES OF SCOTLAND, GIVEN BY SIR HEW HAMILTON DALRYMPLE 1932/ DAVID N ANDERSON/KENNY LAM/VISIT SCOTLAND/JAMES MCDONALD. ILLUSTRATION © MICHAEL A HILL

50 42 Crafty people They may be best known for making whisky, but the people of Islay have far more diverse talents

48 Win a Great British holiday This once-in-a-lifetime holiday prize is worth £5,000, and includes a stay in Edinburgh and visit to the castle

50 Great Scott We celebrate the legacy of author and poet Sir Walter Scott, 250 years since his birth

56 Big Ben How best to climb to the top, or where to walk to enjoy great views of Scotland’s highest munro

62 At the top of their game The current Junior World Highland Dance Champion reveals what it’s like to compete at Cowal

66 United for long last The Franco-Scottish alliance still runs deep, as this Scotsman living in France has discovered

70 Runaway brides and grooms Our ancestry column describes how the kirk reacted to couples who eloped

72 Sutherland’s shame The Highland Clearances were a notorious and controversial period in British history

76 Dates for your diary Scots both sides of the Atlantic are hoping for the return of the much-missed Highland games season

82 The library A haunted house, Hebridean poetry and a woman’s daring escape

Scotland 5

News & events

CLAN COURIER Wildcat breeding, rare woollen knits and brazen property developers [ARCHAEOLOGY]

CAN YOU DIG IT? YES, YOU CAN Volunteers in a community archaeology project have helped unearth previously unknown details about life on the Threave Estate near Castle Douglas thousands of years ago. The Galloway Glens community archaeology project ‘Can You Dig It’ carried out a 10-day dig on the National Trust for Scotland’s Threave Garden and Estate in the summer of 2019. Though lots of discoveries were made at the time – including a lead shot from the 16th-18th century and some flints from the late Neolithic or Early Bronze Age period – it’s what’s been uncovered since that’s been truly revelatory. Some of the carbonised material found during the dig was sent away for radiocarbon dating and has been dated to between AD 75 to 214, confirming that humans lived here as far back as the Iron Age period. However, the volunteers also unearthed a tiny burnt hazelnut shell, dated to between 8,547 and 8,312 BC – meaning that people who lived and hunted here may well have been among the first to repopulate the country following the last Ice Age.

6 Scotland

[OBITUARY]

FAMILY MOURNS THE MARQUESS OF BUTE

[ H E R I TAG E ]

© NATIONAL TRUST FOR SCOTLAND

PINEAPPLE HOUSE PLANNING CONTROVERSY The National Trust for Scotland has lodged a formal objection to a planning application to build a housing development near one of its most beloved properties. The 18th-century A-listed Pineapple was built by the Earl of Dunmore in 1761 as a quirky birthday present for his wife. In 2018, an initial proposal to build a visitors’ centre and 22 houses was made public, though it was later withdrawn. The new application, now under consideration by Falkirk Council, almost quadruples the number of proposed houses to 82, the National Trust for Scotland says. The Trust says that the overall scheme is of “great concern”.

The National Trust for Scotland’s Chief Executive, Philip Long, says: “The Pineapple is one of the most significant buildings in Scotland and its ambience depends on its setting within Dunmore Park with its woodland and abundant wildlife. This development scheme would have a hugely adverse impact on the site, which is designated within the Inventory of Gardens and Designed Landscapes in Scotland.

“As we have seen all too often, inappropriately scaled and sited developments have overwhelmed many important historic and natural landscapes and it’s our obligation to ensure that this does not happen here.”

The former racecar driver, John Crichton-Stuart, 7th Marquess of Bute, has died at the age of 62.

Crichton-Stuart competed in Formula One under the name Johnny Dumfries and was a much-loved character on the circuit. Raised at the family’s home of Mount Stuart on the Isle of Bute, the pinnacle of Johnny’s racing career was winning the Le Mans 24 Hour race in 1988.

In 1993, he inherited the title Marquess of Bute – though he rarely used it – and retired from racing shortly afterwards, turning his attention to opening and maintaining Mount Stuart as a tourist destination.

The Marquess is survived by his wife, the Marchioness of Bute, Serena Wendell; the couple’s daughter, Lady Lola Crichton-Stuart; and his three children from his first marriage: Lady Caroline Crichton-Stuart, John, Earl of Dumfries and Lady Cathleen Crichton-Stuart.

A statement released by his family reads: “The indomitable spirit and energy which Johnny brought to his life will be greatly missed, and the immense warmth and love with which he embraced his family.

“His heart was firmly rooted on the Island of Bute where he spent much of his time.”

Scotland 7

[SHOPPING]

BUY REAL ONE-OFFS A new marketplace selling unique handmade gifts from dozens of Scottish creatives has now launched. ‘The Isles – Scotland’s Secret Shop’, brings together goods made by weavers, wood turners, carvers, embroiderers, jewellery-makers and more, for people looking to buy gifts from the isles that they can’t get elsewhere.

“Each piece is individually crafted and reflects the characteristics of the Island where it was conceived,” says Josephine Swinhoe, from Edinburgh, who has brought all the makers together. “Scots around the world are immensely proud of their heritage, but they can’t all go to the islands to choose something to capture that emotion. Now they can achieve that through supporting our supremely talented craftsmen and women”.

Swinhoe has brought together makers from The Shetlands, Orkney and Skye, such as Jean Tulloch, from Ronaldsay in The Orkneys, who knits using rare and protected North Ronaldsay wool, and Sarah Kay, who lives at Scalloway in The Shetlands, who works with glass, resin and metal.

To search for gifts, go to theisles.shop

[CO N S E R VAT I O N ]

WILDCAT PROJECT TAKES BIG STRIDES FORWARD A long-term plan to save the Scottish wildcat from extinction has got one step closer to achieving its aim with the first cat being introduced to the Saving Wildcats conservation breeding for release centre at the Royal Zoological Society of Scotland’s (RZSS) Highland Wildlife Park. The young female cat, Nell, has arrived from Alladale Wilderness Reserve and it is hoped that any kittens she rears will be among the first cats released into the Scottish Highlands next year. David Barclay, Saving Wildcats ex-situ Conservation Manager, said: “A further 15 cats will be arriving at the centre in the coming weeks, giving us a healthy, genetically diverse population to breed from.”

If you would like to support the Saving Wildcats project, visit savingwildcats.org.uk

8 Scotland

News & events

[EVENTS]

RAISING SPIRITS

One of Scotland’s most ambitious festival organisers has teamed up with one of its most historic castles to launch an event showcasing some of Scotland’s finest whisky in a deeply loved location.

Spirit of Perthshire is collaborating with Castle Menzies and The Menzies Charitable Trust in a bid to raise funds for the continual maintenance of the castle.

The castle, which has been the historical seat of the Chiefs of Clan Menzies for over 500 years, lay in ruin for many years until it was rescued by the Menzies Clan Society in 1957.

This summer, from 27-28 August, guests will be invited to attend the Spirit of Perthshire festival at the castle. On the first evening there will be a dinner and auction for £55 per person, while the following day over 20 distilleries will showcase their whiskies alongside whisky masterclasses and guided castle tours. Transport from the local towns will also be laid on. spiritofperthshire.co.uk

[MUSEUMS]

HISTORIC SEAL MATRIX SAVED

A 16th-century seal matrix that once belonged to Mary, Queen of Scots’ halfbrother, James Stewart, has been saved for the nation. The historic item went up for auction in March through Edinburgh auctioneers Lyon & Turnbull and was acquired by National Museums Scotland, which will add it to its collections.

James Stewart was the eldest son of at least nine illegitimate children fathered

by King James V. The seal matrix is interesting as it indicates Stewart’s position as Commendator of Melrose and Kelso Abbeys – an honour bestowed on him by his father, the King, which gave him significant status in the Borders region.

Dr Anna Groundwater, Principal Curator, Renaissance and Early Modern History at National Museums Scotland, said of the seal matrix: “It has a direct connection to the Royal Stewart dynasty and moreover shows how King James V was prepared to give status and financial security to his illegitimate offspring.”

[ AT T RAC T I O N S ]

© ALLADALE WILDERNESS RESERVE/ALEX ROBSON/LYON & TURNBULL/IAIN DOUGLAS

DR LIVINGSTONE’S HOME This summer the David Livingstone Birthplace museum in Blantyre, South Lanarkshire, will reopen its doors after a three-year £9m regeneration project.

The museum celebrates one of Scotland’s most famous explorers and life-long anti-slavery campaigners, yet until now it has been largely overlooked by visitors.

Organisers hope the restoration project, which includes a brand-new exhibition space in the historic Shuttle Row tenements, where David Livingstone was born and raised, as well as a café, shop, play area and 11 hectares of parkland, will help turn it into one of Scotland’s most popular attractions. One of the key items on display is the red shirt Livingstone is supposed to have been wearing when he met Stanley (“Dr Livingstone, I presume?”). david-livingstone-birthplace.org

Scotland 9

JOURNAL

| Window into Scotland

Notes from the Isles Our friend on the Black Isle fills us in on her life in the Highlands and takes us down memory lane Words by KATE FRANCIS

THIS PAGE: Kate and Cronie, her faithful Border Terrier OPPOSITE: Kessock Bridge, Inverness

10 Scotland

B

urns Night has come and gone, and Mary and I have happy memories of the evening we spent with John and Maggie next door, with whom we have shared a bubble since the first lockdown.

We had delicious Cockburn’s haggis – the best – and all the traditional accompaniments; John recited the address to the ‘Great chieftain o’ the pudding-race’ as Maggie placed the ‘groaning trencher’ before us. “O what a glorious sight, Warm-reekin, rich!”

As we ate, I recounted the story I’ve told in this column before, of when we had a visit from my Australian cousin Angela and her husband Johnny, who’d come to stay with us and explore Scotland. We’d never met them before because my father’s youngest brother had emigrated to Australia after the war, where he settled down and married an Aussie lass.

Because Douglas was too frail for us to take them sightseeing, we hired them a car and they toured the Highlands enthusiastically. I discovered it would be Johnny’s birthday the day before their departure and, knowing their delight in all things Scottish, I hatched a secret plot: we’d have a family gathering for a Burns Night Supper.

I collected and hid all the required ingredients and planned the surprise. Very fortunately, at supper the night before, I happened to ask Angela casually if she’d ever eaten haggis.

“Haggis?” she said, “do you know what it’s made of? I wouldn’t touch haggis if I was starving, and it was the only food available.”

Fortunately, there were plenty of partridges in the deep freeze and I had time to change the plan.

The Black Isle is not an island, so, until we’re allowed to go back to our family base in the Outer Hebrides, Notes from The Isles is a misnomer, but I hope it won’t be long before this is rectified. Fingers are crossed for a gathering at Easter, in our genuine island home. Watch this space.

However, until the late Queen Mother opened the Kessock Bridge in 1982, it was easy to think The Black Isle was indeed an island, with three firths surrounding the peninsula and only a narrow strip of land linking it to the mainland.

To get to Inverness, it was far quicker to take the ferry across a few hundred yards of the Beauly Firth to South Kessock, than to drive for about an hour round the firth.

Despite the fact that the historic ferry pier of South Kessock is now part of Inverness’s least salubrious district, it will always have a very special place in my heart.

In the summer of 1958, when we were newly engaged, Douglas and I were queuing to take the ferry over to North Kessock to visit his parents so they could get to know me. It was a beautiful sunny day; we got out of the car and went to lean over the railings, gazing across the water towards the house in which I now live.

Looking uncharacteristically shy, Douglas pulled a little box out of his pocket, opened it and extracted – to my complete surprise – the engagement ring a local jeweller had created from an old ring his mother had given him. He took my left hand, slipped the ring onto my finger and kissed it. I nearly cried with happiness. In my innocence I had forgotten that being engaged involved a ring and I had no idea that

© DJ TAYLOR/SHUTTERSTOCK

Window into Scotland |

he’d been having one made for me. Whenever I wear it and look at its gleaming ruby between two diamonds, I remember that day with great joy.

During the recent spell of Arctic weather, I had a nasty fall on the ice, fortunately not breaking anything but shaking up my octogenarian bones and muscles. The Yaktrax I’d resurrected had already worn out, so I wasn’t wearing them and had not yet ordered another pair. Word travels like a pandemic in our community and a few days after my fall Postie Jane brought me a parcel containing a brand-new pair of Yaktrax. There was no note to say who’d sent them and my four children denied all knowledge, as did any of my neighbours I asked.

I wrote to the firm they’d come from to ask if they could tell me, but I haven’t had a reply. No doubt they are bound by a Protection of Privacy Act. It worries me dreadfully, not being able to thank my kind benefactor.

Cronie is in disgrace and has been issued with an ASBO (antisocial behaviour order) from the Council, plus a booklet about how to control your dog. She has an instinctive dislike of certain small dogs, Jack Russells in particular. Most unfortunately, there is a Jack Russell called Star who lives about a mile away and the farm track that runs past my house is a favourite dog-walking route.

Not long ago, Cronie and I went out of the front gate for our morning walk, and she spotted Star in the old steading.

journal

Until the late Queen Mother opened the Kessock Bridge in 1982, it was easy to think The Black Isle was indeed an island Being a Border Terrier, when her blood is up and she’s on the chase she ignores human authority.

Star was scooped off the ground by her owner, Cronie jumped up and, in her frenzy, missed Star and bit her owner in the arm, through the sleeve of his thick anorak.

Understandably, he was cross and rather rude, despite my abject grovelling. Later, hearing that he’d had to have an anti-tetanus jab, I delivered them a bag of appeasing goodies: chocolates, biscuits, dog treats, and a poem of apology that I’d carefully composed, but I didn’t manage to win them over and they ignore me whenever we meet.

From now on, Cronie must be on her lead whenever we are within range of other dogs, so we take to the hills, where no one else goes. Today, on one of these remote tracks, what should we see coming towards us but a girl with no less than four Jack Russells. Cronie rushed up, tail wagging and greeted each one with a sniff and a friendly lick. Thank you, St Francis – again. S

Scotland 11

MaIlBaG

| Your letters

WE’VE GOT MAIL A selection of messages from our readers across the globe

Can’t see yours or want to read more letters? Go to scotlandmag.com/ yourviews

I really enjoyed the article on Margaret Drummond and her possible death by poison (Issue 113). What do you know about the daughter she had with James IV? What was her name, and did she survive to adulthood? I look forward to each new issue of the magazine.

Diane Skinner, Durango, Colorado Suzanne Milne, author of the piece, says: “After her mother’s death, Margaret was taken to Edinburgh Castle and was known as Lady Margaret. She was given over to the care of Sir Patrick Crichton and his wife, Katrine Turing. Margaret married three times, firstly to John Gordon, son of the 3rd Earl of Huntly, with whom she had two sons. After he died, she married Alexander Stewart and had one daughter to him. Her third marriage was to Sir John Drummond of Innerpeffray. They had five daughters. On their marriage, James V made him Forester of the Royal Forest of Glenartney in Strathearn. In a charter, dated 1536, the king made Innerpeffray a free barony and Margaret is described as ‘sororis Regis’ – sister of the king.”

The Editor, Scotland, 2 Jubilee Place, London, SW3 3TQ

12 Scotland

editor@scotlandmag.com facebook.com/ScotlandMagazine

Thank you for featuring Duart Castle and the continued restoration work being undertaken at Duart by Sir Lachlan Maclean and his family (Issue 115). Maintaining this property is truly a labour of love of place and heritage.

My US McLean family of Tennessee had been told of Duart all our lives and finally 25 members of my family visited Duart in June 2019. They were fortunate to be greeted by Sir Lachlan and heard firsthand about the dedicated care being given to the restoration.

We are lucky to know our roots, and we plan to return as soon as it is healthy and safe to do so.

In the meantime, we will continue enjoying your excellent publication.

Ellen McLean-Martin, by email

IT’S A SMALL WORLD

I got issue 111 of Scotland magazine from a neighbour and it was the first I’d seen of the magazine.

On page 10, the letter, ‘Not Everybody Loves the Campbells’

by Ms Joan Wickham Suggs, mentioned that Dr Mabel Margaret Morrison had been her history teacher in 1964-1965 at St Mary’s School in Raleigh, NC. Dr Morrison hired me to teach Spanish in 1965 so Joan may well have been a student of mine.

Stanley J Serxner, by email

@Scotland_Mag @scotlandmagazine

© KENNY LAM/VISIT SCOTLAND

WHAT NEXT FOR JAMES’S DAUGHTER?

GOING BACK TO OUR ROOTS

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TraVEl

| The Outer Hebrides

The

Quiet Isles

Scotland’s remote island chain, the Outer Hebrides, still holds tight to its traditions and its unhurried pace of life Words by KENNETH STEVEN

14 Scotland

The Outer Hebrides |

travel

Scotland 15

| The Outer Hebrides

PREVIOUS PAGE: Sea loch on Harris ABOVE: Seilebost beach, with views across to Luskentyre TOP RIGHT: Barra Airport’s beach runway BOTTOM RIGHT: Eriskay ponies near Lochboisdale, South Uist

I

’m sure I’m not the only one to have looked at the map and imagined the Outer Hebrides being akin to the remains of a dragon that once crashed into the waters off the west coast of Scotland. The great head is at the top and the tail curls round below to form a chain of smaller and smaller islands.

I think it’s best to begin at that southern end when setting out to explore the whole chain, just as the romantic in me feels it’s most exciting to start the whole journey by taking the train to Oban and experiencing the wonder of the three-hour train journey from Glasgow.

Having said that, I think having a car for the Outer Hebridean journey is wisest – I have managed to travel the spine of the ‘Long Island’ (one of the many names of the Outer Hebrides, also sometimes called the Western Isles) by public transport, but it was far from easy. A rental car can be picked up in Oban, and you can stay in the town the night before, boarding the ferry for the almost five-hour-long crossing to Barra in the morning.

I will always think of Barra as being like a bit of Ireland that floated off the map. When you awake in the morning in Castlebay, the island’s capital, one of the finest views in the Outer Hebrides awaits you: Kisimul Castle on its tiny islet.

Barra is an island rich in music and storytelling, whose roots are truly ancient. Like other islands in the southern part of the Outer Hebridean chain, it’s staunchly Catholic, and that’s helped to preserve a rich culture of music and folklore: a culture embedded in the Gaelic tongue.

Here, Gaelic is still a living language, used for the buying of petrol or the catching of a boat, though native Gaelic speakers switch between their mother tongue and English without a second thought.

It is hard to leave Barra behind, with its scimitars of beaches and its wealth of history, but the little ferry to Eriskay takes no time at all, nor does crossing Eriskay itself, which is passed in the blink of an eye.

But watch for the ponies, and the sudden shocks of white-bright sand. All of a sudden, you’ll come round a bend and see a shrine to Mary, brightened with fresh

When you awake in Castlebay, Barra’s capital, one of the finest views in the Outer Hebrides awaits: Kisimul Castle on its islet

16 Scotland

© JEREMY FLINT PHOTOGRAPHY/VISIT SCOTLAND/PAUL TOMKINS. ILLUSTRATION: © MICHAEL A HILL

travel

The Outer Hebrides |

travel

Scotland 17

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'It is testament to the triumph of the human spirit; that one woman could have achieved so much simply by force of will' Scottish Affairs

by Ailie Cleghorn Against the frightening backdrop of World War II, a young Scottish woman took ten children by ship from Scotland to South Africa.

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The Outer Hebrides |

travel

flowers. This is where Bonnie Prince Charlie landed from France to embark on the ill-fated Rising that would result in the Battle of Culloden a year later in 1746.

There was good reason for landing the Prince here among strictly Catholic islands, where people were fiercely determined to see the restoration of the Stuart throne.

But before you know it, you’re over the causeway to South Uist. I remember coming here first as a boy of six. I learned my first words of Gaelic from the crofting family where we stayed for bed and breakfast.

It was early summer, and the meadows were full of the song of curlews and lapwings. The wind seems to blow constantly here, as if from every direction all at once.

The Uists are islands that feel barely above sea level: there are one or two high hills certainly, but the low moorland is pocked with lochs, and all too often loch and sea flow from one into the other. For that reason, this is a fisherman’s kingdom, and a corner of heaven too for any birdwatcher.

As with all the islands, otters are common. Watch out for them on the roads, for their main enemy is the car. Often on the Scottish mainland you only see otters if you’re up at dawn: they’re shy creatures, keen to be away from disturbance. Here in the islands, it’s quite possible to see an otter having supper on the shore at the end of a bright summer afternoon. They grow used to people and weave their existence around them.

I know for a fact that much of this richness of the landscape is thanks to an older way of farming called crofting – farming on a small scale. Someone who crofts will typically have some sheep or a few cows or hens, but you’ll often find it’s a crofter too who drives the school bus on Fridays, or serves in the village shop each Wednesday. Working the land is rarely enough to bring in sufficient income.

It’s well worth breaking the journey in the Uists for a day or so, perhaps to visit the birthplace of

© JEREMY FLINT PHOTOGRAPHY

Much of the richness of this landscape is thanks to an older way of farming called crofting – farming on a small scale

ABOVE: A double rainbow arcs over the Gearrannan Blackhouse Village on Lewis

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| The Outer Hebrides

PLAN YOUR FUTURE VISIT

GETTING THERE Caledonian MacBrayne runs ferries from Oban to Castlebay on Barra (5hrs 30min) and also from Ullapool in the northwest Highlands to Stornoway on Lewis and Harris (2hr 45mins) if you’d like to do the route in reverse. It is also possible to fly from Glasgow to Barra and land on the beach runway with Loganair (1hr 15mins). calmac.co.uk; loganair.co.uk

GETTING AROUND A Hopscotch ticket allows for flexible and cheaper inter-island travel. Often the Oban ferry arrives late in the evening into Castlebay, so staying in town that first night is wise. calmac.co.uk/island-hopping

WHERE TO STAY Sifting the online lists of cottages, bed and breakfasts and hotels for the Outer Hebrides lets you work out what best suits your needs.

Plan the journey from Castlebay

on Barra to Stornoway on Lewis, allowing time for stops and overnight stays.

Corrodale Cottage (uistholidaycottage.co.uk) is a real thatched cottage on South Uist that you can rent on a self-catering basis.

In South Harris, Blue Reef Cottages (stay-hebrides.com) offers some of the loveliest accommodation, within easy reach of those Luskentyre sands – but there’s lots of choice.

WHERE TO EAT Wonderful seafood is found throughout the island chain, including at the Lochmaddy Hotel (lochmaddyhotel.co.uk).

On Lewis, there’s the Uig Sands Restaurant (uigsands.co.uk), which overlooks the spectacular Uig Bay. Further north and also on the island’s west coast, there’s the Uig Scallop Shack (facebook. com/UigScallopShack), a few miles from Carloway Broch. By the time you reach Stornoway, you’re spoilt for choice.

FIND OUT MORE visitouterhebrides.co.uk

Flora MacDonald (the celebrated Uist heroine who helped Bonnie Prince Charlie escape from the Hanoverian soldiers seeking to take him prisoner).

In North Uist, visit Lochmaddy and the beautiful little museum that celebrates in particular the extraordinary weaver of strange garments, Angus MacPhee. There is the magnificent bird reserve at Balranald, and a cluster of castles to visit.

The seafood is worth finding throughout these islands, not just in the Uists. The cold waters are blessed with rich reserves of lobster, langoustine and brown crab. When I visited the island chain with my parents in childhood I remember seeing none of these delicacies; now they’re being fished ever more and kept for local consumption.

If you have time, take the west coast road around the top of North Uist. On a very clear day you’ll be lucky enough to see the sharp ramparts of St Kilda.

The North Uist to Harris ferry crossing is my favourite of all the Outer Hebrides ferry routes. It’s also the strangest, for the ferry weaves its way slowly and carefully between rocks and islets, through beautiful translucent water, as it passes raft after raft of birds. I remember those crossings being blessed with transient light, so here, as elsewhere, there’s the opportunity for magnificent pictures.

I would urge you to stay somewhere in the south of Harris once you’ve landed in Leverburgh and it’s hard to imagine leaving without first experiencing the wonder of the beaches of Luskentyre. It’s the sheer hugeness of the dunes and the whiteness of the sand, rendered all the more powerful

The North Uist to Harris ferry crossing is my favourite. It’s also the strangest, weaving its way slowly between rocks and islets 20 Scotland

TOP TO BOTTOM: Beware of otters crossing Outer Hebridean roads; St Clements Church, Rodel, Harris

© DACAMERON/ALAMY/JEREMY FLINT PHOTOGRAPHY

The Outer Hebrides are currently only open for essential travel, but restrictions are expected to be eased over the coming months.

Please check guidelines before booking travel.

Applicants must be between 18 and 35 years old and have at least one publication prior to August 15, 2021. These works can include essays, research papers, books, and articles. Topics must be thematically consistent with positive social impact and business. Themes include, but are not limited to, climate change, racial/gender equality, sustainability, and innovation.

To apply, send your published pieces (link or PDF) and a brief (1- to 2-page) working plan addressing your future writing endeavors and career plans (the next 5–10 years) to sydney@ahcgroup.com (cc: marti@ahcgroup.com). Please contact Sydney with any questions you may have. For more, visit www.doingmorewithlessbook.com Submissions accepted until August 15, 2021. The $5,000 award will be granted in a public ceremony in Albany, New York, in conjunction with the New York State Writers Institute. We look forward to reading your submissions.

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At Hebridean Hopscotch, our local holiday advisors create made to measure island hopping holidays, doing all the hard work so that you can enjoy the peace and tranquility that the Outer Hebrides has to offer.

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| The Outer Hebrides

by the foreboding dark of the Harris hills behind. In fact, staying only a day or so will be the difficulty: there are many who’ve found the beaches of Scarista, Seilebost and Luskentyre and made up their minds never to go anywhere else.

Now you’re into staunchly Presbyterian country: North Uist, Harris and Lewis are all filled with very different churches, those of the Free and Free Presbyterian denominations, and of the Church of Scotland. Sunday is still at the very centre of that Presbyterian culture: you’ll find nothing open that day except for the churches themselves, nor will you see any washing blowing on a line.

It may be a way of life that is passing, but it goes very deep. If you do stay then make a point of experiencing the haunting beauty of the Golden Road on the east coast of Harris. If it’s high summer you’ll need to be ready to use passing places a fair amount, but the inconvenience is surely worth it for unparalleled views.

There’s no ferry between Harris and Lewis because bizarrely enough they’re different parts of the same island. Yet they don’t feel so. Harris is composed of high hills and has a distinct ruggedness; Lewis is low moorland with clusters of scattered communities. The drive that brings you from one to the other is extraordinary. Park up in the high hills to get some sense of the grandeur and keep watching the skies for an eagle.

I think perhaps in childhood days I considered Lewis rather drab. I learned later just how wrong I was. Instead of heading straight for Stornoway, the capital of the Outer Hebrides on the east side of Lewis, drive west in order to visit the standing stones of Callanish, the great broch of Carloway and the Blackhouse at Arnol. This is another corner in which to stay if you have time, but once you do reach Stornoway, and before taking the ferry back to the mainland, visit the museum to see the Lewis chessmen – most likely the greatest of treasures in all the islands. S

ABOVE: The Callanish Stones on Lewis

22 Scotland

© JEREMY FLINT PHOTOGRAPHY

Harris is composed of high hills and has a distinct ruggedness; Lewis is low moorland with clusters of scattered communities

Scottish Heritage USA, Inc.

Putting pride in your heritage to work for you A Non-profit Organization providing student scholarships for highland dance and bagpiping and making charitable donations to the National Trust for Scotland and other non-profit organizations that promote Scottish tradition, history, crafts and culture here in the states and abroad Scottish Gaelic studies at UNC Chapel Hill was largely funded by Scottish Heritage USA for the academic years of 2018-20 and plans are currently in process to fund a Department of Gaelic Studies at UNC! WE ARE ALSO A PROUD SPONSOR OF THE GRANDFATHER MT. HIGHLAND GAMES CULTURAL VILLAGE!

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stately home

24 Scotland

| Hopetoun House

Hopetoun House |

stately home

Words by RODDY MARTINE

SCOTLAND’S SHOWSTOPPER © VISIT SCOTLAND/PAUL TOMKINS/EVERETT COLLECTION INC/ALAMY

Today, it may be better known for its Outlander connections, but the history of Hopetoun is worthy of a drama of its own and the house is a guaranteed scene-stealer

H

opetoun House, its all-embracing wings looming up before your eyes at the end of a long, straight driveway close to the medieval ferry town of South Queensferry, makes quite the first impression. As you approach, there are spectacular views across the Firth of Forth towards the Kingdom of Fife.

The history of the Hopetoun estate is also tantalising. A fortified castle existed on the original Abercorn estate as early as the 12th century, when it was held by Sir William de Graham, ancestor of the dukes of Montrose.

Midhope Castle, built c.1458 by John Martyne, who owned Carden Castle in Fife, also stands within the estate. Sold to Henry Livingstone in 1478, it was LEFT: The 18threbuilt by Alexander Drummond in century Hopetoun 1587 then significantly remodelled House ABOVE: The Outlander

by George, 3rd Earl of Livingstone, cast, including in 1664.

Sam Heughan When John Hope acquired the (left), gather at ‘Lallybroch’ Abercorn estate in 1678, he raised

the height of the existing eastern section and added two more bays on the end. The inscription above the kitchen reads: “Aspirit Coeptis Jesus”, which translates as “May Jesus favour your undertakings”.

A restoration, with new roofing and windows, was undertaken in 1962, revealing a Scottish Renaissance beamand-board painted ceiling which, having been restored, has been relocated to the Abbey Strand Historic Scotland bookshop outside the gates of the Palace of Holyroodhouse, in Edinburgh.

Today, the exterior of Midhope Castle will be familiar to fans of the Starz historical television series Outlander, since it serves as Lallybroch (Broch Tuarach), the ancestral home of the drama’s handsome fictional hero Jamie Fraser.

In the series, Lallybroch is also occupied by Jamie’s sister and her family.

You do need a ticket to visit the exterior of the castle (you cannot go inside) and as Midhope Castle is situated at the centre of a busy farming area on the Hopetoun estate, access to the surroundings is occasionally denied to the general

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| Hopetoun House

CLOCKWISE, public for safety reasons. Please FROM FAR RIGHT: check the guidelines before you Hopetoun’s large decide to visit. library; views The Hope family, which purchased extend across the Firth of Forth; the Abercorn estate in the mid-17th Midhope Castle; a century, were a remarkably acute, statue of General fortunate and prolific dynasty. Their Sir John Hope, 4th story emerges in the 15th century Earl of Hopetoun, in Edinburgh with John Hope, a Burgess of Edinburgh with trading interests in continental Europe.

John’s grandson Thomas was born in Leith in 1573 and studied law, rising to become King’s Advocate in 1626. Of his four sons, two became judges at the Court of Session, the third becoming cupbearer to the King, and the fourth, Sir James (1614-1661), Master of the Mint and a Lord of Session. Sir James was the first to style himself ‘of Hopetoun’, taking the old name of Leadhills in Lanarkshire (it was formerly known as ‘Hope Toun’), which had come into his possession through marriage to its heiress Ann Foulis.

Having developed a serious interest in his wife’s inheritance, Sir James set off to the Low Countries to gain an expertise hitherto unknown in Scotland and from which he later extended the family’s commercial interests into West Lothian.

Lead mining from there on in became the basis for the Hope family’s prosperity.

In 1678, James’s son, John (1650-82), purchased the lands of Abercorn on the southern shore of the Firth of Forth from the 4th Earl of Winton and re-named the estate ‘Hopetoun’.

Alas, soon afterwards he drowned in the shipwreck of HMS Gloucester, while accompanying the Duke of York, later James VII/II, on a journey to Scotland.

John is said to have given up his seat in the rescue boat to save the future monarch and as a result, his widow, Lady Margaret Hamilton, daughter of the 4th Earl of Haddington, was left with their two young sons to oversee the emerging mansion house under the instruction of the great Scottish architect Sir William Bruce. On his coming of age in 1703, the same year that the first building work was completed, Charles, the eldest son, was created Earl of Hopetoun by Queen Anne, a nod to his father’s sacrifice.

Bruce’s original designs for Hopetoun House followed the Italian style introduced into England earlier that same century – a central pile connected by curved colonnades with forward standing pavilions. The existing west front survives as an admirably restrained and balanced composition.

A zealous supporter of the Act of Union between Scotland and England, the Earl was a man of cultivated tastes who, with his substantial inheritance, set out to copy the splendour of contemporary English country houses. There can be no doubt he had a strong influence on the alterations,

26 Scotland

© DAVID CHEREPUSCHAK/ALAMY/ZARA STEVENSON/SHUTTERSTOCK/CHAD MUNRO

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Hopetoun House |

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28 Scotland

| Hopetoun House

Hopetoun House |

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enlargement and additions that were introduced 20 years later by his family’s friends, those other iconic Scottish architects, William Adam and his son, Robert.

The 2nd Earl added to the family holdings by purchasing the Ormiston estates in East Lothian and was one of the first Governors of Edinburgh Infirmary. The 3rd Earl concentrated on improving his agricultural interests but had no children. Hopetoun was thus inherited by his half-brother, General Sir John Hope who had fought alongside the Duke of Wellington in the Peninsular War. At Hopetoun, he instructed the completion of the State Dining Room and, on one memorable occasion in 1822, entertained George IV to a lunch of turtle soup on the last day of the King’s state visit to Scotland.

Asking for the use of the Earl’s sword, King George knighted Captain Adam Ferguson, Keeper of the Regalia in Scotland, and Henry Raeburn, the distinguished Scottish painter, in the Yellow Drawing Room.

The 5th and 6th earls, although both active in Scottish affairs, mostly concentrated on agricultural improvements close to home. However, John, 7th Earl, having been appointed Governor of Victoria, became first GovernorGeneral of the Commonwealth of Australia and was created Marquess of Linlithgow in 1901.

Victor, 2nd Marquess, held the office of Viceroy and Governor-General of India from 1936 to 1943. Charles, 3rd Marquess served in the British Army and during the Second World War was captured and imprisoned at Colditz in 1940 with the 51st Highland Division.

Adrian, 4th Marquess, has enjoyed a successful commercial career in the City of London and today lives on the estate while his son and daughter-in-law Lord and Lady Hopetoun occupy an apartment in the house which, despite it having become a five-star visitor attraction, remains very much their family home.

Lord Hopetoun, a nuclear physicist and software and systems engineer, explains: “Since 1971, the house and immediate grounds have been owned and run by an independent charitable trust, the Hopetoun House Preservation Trust. Its role is to ensure the future of Hopetoun for public benefit and enjoyment and inspiration through ongoing conservation and education programmes.”

Hopetoun House can be seen in series one and two of Outlander as the home of the fictional Duke of Sandringham, with scenes filmed in the Red Drawing Room. The courtyard behind the Stables Tearoom regularly features as Parisian streets in the second series, and the duel between the Duke and the head of the MacDonald clan was filmed on the Sea

© ANGUS BREMNER/COLIN LUNN/PUBLIC DOMAIN SOURCED/ACCESS RIGHTS FROM THE HISTORY COLLECTION/ALAMY

CLOCKWISE, FROM FAR LEFT: The Yellow Drawing Room; Lord Hopetoun at the 2012 Hopetoun House Horse Trials; the Red Drawing Room; King George IV visits Hopetoun House in 1822

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| Hopetoun House

PLAN YOUR VISIT ■ Hopetoun House, just a short distance from Edinburgh, is generally open to day visitors from Easter Sunday through to the end of October. Opening days and times are still to be confirmed for 2021, however they will be published on the website as soon as they are known.

Check the website for details on arranging a pre-booked visit to see the outside of Midhope Castle. hopetoun.co.uk

30 Scotland

© FRANK DALTON/VISIT SCOTLAND/PAUL TOMKINS

RIGHT: The Walk Trail and West Lawn to the North Tower of rear of the house.

Hopetoun House Restoration and conservation are BELOW: The very much at the core of Hopetoun.

Garden Room Within the hallway and rooms that are open to the public there are innumerable family portraits, fine artefacts, marble busts and items of furniture, such as a Genoese mid-18th century giltwood pier table with its Florentine sample marble top, and a round table in burr oak

by William Trotter.

The Garden Room displays a musical automaton clock manufactured by Jan Henkels of Amsterdam c.1730. A screen with flower plates contains illustrations from The Temple of Flora by Robert John Thornton who dedicated his work to Queen Charlotte, consort of King George II. The gilded wall paintings in the State Bedchamber were by the Edinburgh-based decorator James Norrie and date from 1741-42; the Charter Room, Writing Closet and Libraries are similarly packed with interest.

There are paintings by Rubens, Raeburn and Gainsborough to be seen. Particularly beautiful is the White Satin Bedchamber with its wall hangings; also, the West Ainscot Bedchamber and Anteroom, and the State Apartments – the Yellow and Red Drawing Rooms and the State Dining Room.

The Ballroom in the South Pavilion, with its coved plaster ceiling, Aubusson tapestries, chandeliers and a fine chimneypiece designed by William Adam, has witnessed many a formal ball and gathering and created so many happy memories.

Happy memories are also created through Hopetoun being an immensely popular wedding destination with the completely re-furbished Adam Stables and Carriage Room providing facilities for private and corporate entertaining.

Assisted by the popular Ranger Service, Hopetoun’s Education Team provide a range of interactive workshops for school groups throughout the academic year. S

Promotion

AHOY TO ST KILDA With Go To St Kilda, you can visit the most remote islands in the UK. Here photographer Ali Horne recalls his memorable trip

TOP LEFT: Discover the remains of human habitation on St Kilda CENTRE: Travel to the archipelago by boat from the Isle of Skye BELOW: Since 1930, there have been no permanent human residents on St Kilda

T

he Isle of Skye is one of the most visited islands in the whole of the UK for good reason. The landscape is unlike anything else I have explored or seen in any other area around Scotland and cannot be described until you have set your eyes on it. Finding out that it was possible to travel to an even more breathtaking and unique place from these shores was an opportunity I could not resist.

I was fortunate enough to travel to St Kilda, a set of isolated islands 40 miles off the west coast of the Outer Hebrides, in June 2019, while working with Go To St Kilda as photographer of their newest boat, Finn Mara.

The islands are not only a dual UNESCO World Heritage Site, but they are also home to over one million birds, making it one of the most important bird colonies in Western Europe.

Many people opt for the day trip to Hirta, the main island, but I was fortuitous to camp on the island for four nights (one more than expected due to the rough seas).

With no service or internet access for the duration, it’s a great way to refresh your own batteries and really embrace the cultural and historical aspects of St Kilda to the fullest.

At over 400 metres, the islands have the highest sea cliffs in the whole of the UK, which you get really close to on your return boat journey. It’s difficult to comprehend that locals once climbed them to gather birds eggs to eat.

As a result of the male population leaving for the war or the mainland for work, the elderly and children left behind struggled to cope with this extreme way of life and the challenges of St Kilda’s harsh climate. By 1930 the islands had been evacuated of their final 36 residents.

Highlights from my trip included solitary walks to every edge of Hirta, photographing puffins in their hundreds, witnessing the brutal Scottish west coast weather and discovering the history of the islands and just how the locals survived in such a remote setting. A truly unforgettable trip, and one that I cannot encourage enough. S Go To St Kilda trips set off from the Isle of Skye. You can opt for a day trip or a camping adventure of one night or more. The trips are run through the summer months by Go To St Kilda, which also runs trips to the Isle of Harris and to the Small Isles. gotostkilda.co.uk

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tRaVel

| Outlander locations

Kinloch Rannoch Doune Castle Glasgow Dunure Harbour

Culross

Bo’ness & Kinneil Railway Glencorse Old Kirk

Drumlanrig

OUTLANDER UNCOVERED With filming for series six currently underway, we reveal some of the locations used in the smash-hit historical drama Outlander, which you can visit on your next trip

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Outlander locations |

travel

J

amie and Claire’s time-travelling love affair from the Diana Gabaldon series of Outlander novels has had viewers hooked since premiering on Starz in 2014. Lockdown has done nothing to dampen its popularity: Series 5 is the most watched series of all and a seventh has just been commissioned.

If you are one of the million viewers that watches Outlander scrupulously, enthralled by Claire and Jamie Fraser’s love story, or by its Jacobite themes, then there are lots of places where you can put yourself in the story. Some excellent companies offer tours – Celtic Journeys and Highlander Tours, for instance – but if you’d rather visit them yourself, here are some of the places to add to your itinerary.

KINLOCH RANNOCH PERTHSHIRE

This picturesque village in rural Perthshire is the very real setting for the fictional Craigh na Dun, the stone circle via which Claire first gets transported through time. There is no stone circle here – Craigh na Dun is probably based on the Callanish Stones on Lewis (see page 14) – but the natural beauty of the area is real.

Even if you don’t find the exact filming location (it’s on a private farm), a woodland walk from the village up to Rannoch Moor will give you a very similar view. You are also sure to recognise other backdrops from scenes of Claire and Jamie’s honeymoon. kinlochrannoch.com LEFT: Caitriona Balfe and Sam Heughan, the stars of Outlander TOP TO BOTTOM: Kinloch Rannoch, Perthshire; the Bo’ness & Kinneil Railway

BO’NESS & KINNEIL RAILWAY

© IAN GOODRICK/ALLSTAR PICTURE LIBRARY LTD/ALAMY/SANDY HARVEY/SHUTTERSTOCK

FALKIRK

Most avid fans of the series know that nearby Linlithgow Palace, the birthplace of Mary, Queen of Scots, features in Series 1 as Wentworth Prison, where Jamie is imprisoned. But did you know that there’s another key location just down the road? The heritage Bo’ness & Kinneil Railway, just five miles north, was where Claire and Frank say goodbye in wartime London.

Today (pandemic permitting), you can take a vintage steam train for the short journey between Bo’ness and Manuel Station. bkrailway.co.uk

CULROSS FIFE

The historic Fife town of Culross is a beautifully preserved 17thand 18th-century burgh – the most complete in all of Scotland, thanks in no small part to the National Trust for Scotland’s care.

Its Mercat Cross was at the centre of Geillis’s fictional hometown of Cranesmuir in Series 1 (though the cross and buildings had a temporary colour change). Lots of other scenes have been shot here since, including those of Balriggan Cottage in Series 4. nts.org.uk/visit/places/culross

DOUNE CASTLE STIRLINGSHIRE

And, of course, as any die-hard fan knows, Doune Castle is the setting for Castle Leoch, where Colum MacKenzie and his clan

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| Outlander locations

lived in the 18th century. The castle also appeared again in an episode when Claire and Frank visit the castle ruins on a day trip.

Outlander links aside, Doune Castle is a fascinating place to visit, as it was once a medieval stronghold that was the seat of Robert Stewart, the 1st Duke of Albany and Governor of Scotland, who is often referred to as the ‘Uncrowned King of Scotland’. historicenvironment.scot/visit-a-place/places/doune-castle

Several locations in Scotland’s most populated city were used in filming. The civic heart of the city, George Square, became a 1940s film set for Frank’s proposal to Claire, and in Series 2, the crypt of Glasgow Cathedral became L’Hopital Des Anges in Paris, where Claire volunteered. Meanwhile, Pollock Country Park in the city’s Southside starred twice: in Series 1 as the grounds of Castle Leoch; and in Series 2 as the French countryside, as the characters travelled from Le Havre to Paris. The University of Glasgow also did a very good impression of Harvard University, where Frank teaches, in Series 3 and 4. peoplemakeglasgow.com

DRUMLANRIG

DUMFRIES AND GALLOWAY This grand Renaissance stately home, with its distinct pink turreted façade, doubled as Bellhurst Manor, the Duke of Sandringham’s estate, in Series 2. The exterior of the building featured, as did some of the interiors, including the very bedroom where Bonnie Prince Charlie is said to have stayed in 1745. Drumlanrig is open on set dates throughout the year, and is home to an enviable collection of silver, French furniture and art. drumlanrigcastle.co.uk

DUNURE HARBOUR AYRSHIRE

This small harbour on the Ayrshire coast was the setting for Ayr Harbour, where Claire and Jamie embarked from Scotland on the trail of Young Ian in Series 3. Just a short walk from the harbour, you’ll find the ruins of Dunure Castle, which by the magic of television stars as Silkie Island in Series 3 and then later, in Series 4, as the location in Wilmington, North Carolina, where Brianna and Roger reunite. visitscotland.com/info/towns-villages/dunure-p244621

GLENCORSE OLD KIRK MIDLOTHIAN

This little kirk near Edinburgh was the setting for one of the most popular scenes in the whole show – Claire and Jamie’s wedding in Series 1. In the foothills of the Pentland Hills, the location is suitably hidden away, with a very romantic atmosphere. It is possible to visit the church, but only by making an appointment with Glencorse House. www.glencorsehouse.co.uk S For more, go to visitscotland.com/see-do/attractions/tv-film/outlander

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© CHROMOPRISME/HEATHER RAULERSON/TREASURE GALORE/JAZMAN/SHUTTERSTOCK/ANTONY MCAULAY/ALAMY/VISIT SCOTLAND/VISIT SOUTH WEST SCOTLAND/DAMIAN SHIELDS

GLASGOW

LEFT TO RIGHT: Doune Castle, Stirlingshire; University of Glasgow; Drumlanrig, Dumfries and Galloway

Outlander locations |

travel

LEFT TO RIGHT: Culross, Fife; Dunure Harbour, Ayrshire; Glencorse Old Kirk, near Edinburgh

Scotland 35

made in scotland

| Whisky

ENVIRONMENTAL FACTORS Our Master of Malt puts forward the argument that terroir has an impact on Scotch whisky Words by JOHN LAMOND

T

erroir is a term used in winemaking. It is a French word and there is no equivalent in the English language. Its meaning encompasses soil structure, geology, angle of slope, aspect, micro-climate, hydrology and even generations of expertise. The Oxford Companion to Wine devotes more than a page (in excess of 2,000 words) to the subject.

Terroir is something that has divided the whisky industry for decades. Mark Reynier, who was part of the team that re-established Bruichladdich Distillery in 2002, has long been an advocate for the existence of terroir in whisky.

The problem is that one of the basic elements in whisky production, the grain, can come from almost anywhere, as Scottish distillers have imported barley from Europe since at least 1788 and nature’s variations can cause serious harvest problems.

Mark left Scotland after Bruichladdich was sold to Rémy Cointreau in 2012 and established Waterford Distillery in southern Ireland in 2015.

“Our farmers are known to us by name.

They tell us about the soil, the wind, the drainage and micro-climate of every field” 36 Scotland

The current team at Bruichladdich continue to emphasise the importance of terroir to flavour. They separate barley parcels from different harvests, farms and even different fields and distil these separately. They say that “For us barley is a living, organic expression of the land, of the terroir in which it is grown. Our farmers are known to us by first name. They tell us about the soil, the wind, the drainage, the aspect, the micro-climate of every field.”

Mark, in Ireland, has been very voluble as he has continued to argue that terroir is important as a flavour influencer. He has focussed on the provenance of the barley, on where and how it is cultivated. His team has sourced 86 separate farms, including some that are organic or biodynamically run: growing barley on 19 distinct soil types. Each farmer’s crop is harvested, stored, malted and distilled separately. Therefore, they can capture each farm’s terroir within the spirit.

The bigger companies have denied even the possibility of the existence of a terroir influence on flavour and, in their case, the volumes of barley they need mean that the separation and monitoring of their grain stocks would be nothing short of a logistical nightmare.

To a degree, if you are a small distiller, the maintenance of such recording and storage is easier. Kilchoman, for example, has signs erected within its fields informing the field’s name, which strain of barley is planted, what the expected yield will be and how many bottles that will produce.

For a large distillery such as Roseisle or Macallan, such

Whisky |

© VISIT SCOTLAND/NORTH EAST 250/DAMIAN SHIELDS/2016 BDCL

TASTING NOTES ■ Fettercairn Distillery has launched the first in a series of small batch single malts. The Warehouse Collection pays homage to the warehouses where the whiskies mature and Warehouse 2 Batch No.001 is limited to 3,600 bottles.

The nose is medium-bodied and shows honey, vanilla and biscuity leather; with water there is little change, some pear drops and a touch of lemon zest. The flavour is quite full-bodied, medium-dry and fresh with some spicy ginger, citrus, stewed apples and ice cream with an edge of richness finishing long, rich and fruity. The spice is softer in the finish and there is some perfume on the tail. The cost is £55. fettercairnwhisky.com/en ■ Robin Russell at Robbie’s Drams on Ayr’s Sandgate began to major in malts in 2003. His whisky festival, Whisky And A’ That, first occurred in that year as part of the town’s Burns Festival. Demand was such that it now takes place annually in early June at Ayr’s Town Hall. Their worldwide online sales developed over the past dozen years and the knowledgeable team will happily despatch to almost all corners of the globe. Unusually, the website has a section headed ‘Non-auction’, which carries rarities that one normally has to trawl through auction sites to find. robbieswhiskymerchants.com

made in scotland

The bigger companies have denied even the possibility of the existence of a terroir influence on flavour logistics are nigh on impossible. For Kilchoman, Bruichladdich, Springbank, Daftmill, InchDairnie or Arbikie it is not just possible, that is what they are currently achieving.

Now, an academic study led by Oregon State University and Waterford Distillery has been published in the scientific journal Foods. ‘The Impact of Terroir on the Flavour of Single Malt Whisk(e)y New Make Spirit’ looked at two varieties of barley grown at two distinct Irish farms, harvested over two consecutive seasons (2017 and 2018) and distilled at Tatlock & Thomson’s laboratory in Fife.

They found that both environment and season had a greater impact on the aroma and flavour of the new make spirits than variety alone and the report states: “Therefore, this study clearly demonstrates a ‘terroir’ impact on the flavour of new make spirit and highlights its potential importance especially in relation to single malt whisk(e)y.” S To read the full academic study, go to mdpi.com/2304-8158/10/2/443

ABOVE LEFT: Cardhu Distillery barley fields, Speyside ABOVE RIGHT: Bruichladdich Distillery, Islay

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secret scotland

| Dark tales

© ESSENTIAL STOCK/ALAMY/NATIONAL GALLERIES OF SCOTLAND, GIVEN BY SIR HEW HAMILTON DALRYMPLE 1932

THIS IMAGE: ‘James Douglas, 2nd Duke of Queensberry, 1662-1711.

Statesman’, artist unknown, date unknown RIGHT: Queensberry House forms part of the Scottish Parliament buildings

38 Scotland

Dark tales |

secret scotland

THE CURSE OF THE DOUGLAS FAMILY Terrible events have plagued the Douglas family since the 17th century, so much so that some say it is the work of dark forces Words by GILLY PICKUP

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| Dark tales

R

THIS PAGE, ecords say that William Douglas, the first Duke of CLOCKWISE, Queensberry, bought Queensberry House on FROM TOP LEFT: James Douglas Edinburgh’s Canongate in or around 1689 and presents the Act of died there in 1695.

Union, 1707; statue At the exact moment of his death, sailors on a ship off of Walter Francis Sicily reported seeing a coach and six horses galloping up Montagu Douglas Scott (1806-1884), to the crater of Mount Etna, which was discharging boiling the 5th Duke of volcanic ash as if exiting the mouth of Hell. The devil’s Buccleuch and voice was heard to boom: “Make way for the Duke of the 7th Duke of Drumlanrig!” (One of Queensberry’s subsidiary titles). It Queensbury, in Edinburgh; was said that the coach then simply vanished. Curse or Charles Douglas’s legend? Whichever it was, misfortune has dogged the coat of arms family ever since.

Just 12 years later, James Douglas, the nine-year-old son of the 2nd Duke of Queensberry, is said to have cooked a servant boy on a spit in the kitchens of Edinburgh’s Queensberry House. The boy, who murdered and cooked the servant, was mentally ill. He was kept under guarded lock and key in the house, hidden from view. No-one was allowed to speak of his existence.

It is said that the night in 1707 when the horrific event took place was the very night that Scotland and England became one, joined together as the United Kingdom of Great Britain. As Lord High Commissioner and one of those who negotiated the Treaty of Union, the boy’s father, also called James, was largely responsible in abolishing the Scottish Parliament, which was originally established in 1235. This ended Scotland’s days as an independent nation.

It was well known that Scotland, or North Britain as it was known in this period, would not adapt easily to this new relationship with England. It meant that the English Parliament became the British Parliament with marginal readjustment to accommodate Scottish interests.

And so, on the night the Treaty was ratified, Edinburgh was in turmoil. There were riots in the city, though it has to be said that there were the odd few who saw the occasion as an excuse for a party. It was decided that to ensure the Duke’s safety, he should stay away from Queensberry House that evening. Most of the staff were also out of the house protecting the Duke, as was the servant normally tasked with looking after James, the boy Earl.

The story goes that with the house almost deserted, James, attracted by the smell of cooking coming from downstairs managed to get out of his room. He made his way to the kitchen where he saw the young

James Douglas is said to have cooked a servant on a spit in the kitchens of Queensberry House 40 Scotland

Dark tales |

secret scotland

servant busy with his chores. The young Earl was enormously strong and decided there and then to cook and eat the kitchen boy. When the Duke returned home, he was horrified by the sight that met him – a cooked, half-eaten servant and his slavering mad son. He wasn’t going to put up with that sort of behaviour and although he ordered his son to be killed immediately, for some reason this did not happen.

All that is known about the boy Earl after that is that somehow, he was spirited away to England and died some years later. Although the Duke tried to keep the story hushed up, the tale spread like wildfire. The Scots who were set against the Treaty said the crime was a judgement on the Duke for favouring the Union. A curse, no less.

The house is now part of the Scottish Parliament buildings and the oven is still in the Allowances Office. Perhaps not surprisingly, it is said that the servant boy’s ghost haunts the building.

Due to his mental state, the Earl could not succeed to the Dukedom when his father died and it passed to his younger brother Charles, who became 3rd Duke of Queensberry.

More tragedy ensued, touching Charles and his family too. In 1720, Charles married his second cousin, Lady Catherine ‘Kitty’ Hyde, who was eccentric to the point of madness. Prior to her marriage she had been frequently restrained in a strait jacket. Worse still, she hated Scotland and the Scots.

The couple had a son called Henry, who while on a journey to London in 1754, galloped in front of a coach containing his mother, pulled out a pistol and shot himself. A year after that, more misfortune befell the family when Henry’s brother, Charles, who had narrowly escaped death in an earthquake in Lisbon, also died.

In 1858 the 8th Marquess, Lord Lieutenant for Dumfriesshire, shot himself dead with his own gun while out hunting. Just a few years later his second son, Lord Francis, was killed while climbing the Matterhorn and in 1891 his third son, Lord James Edward Douglas, died by suicide. There were more heinous events, many more. Most recently, in 2009, 34-year-old Lord Milo Douglas, third son of the 12th and present Marquess of THIS PAGE, Queensberry, also died by suicide.

CLOCKWISE, For one family to have endured so much seems FROM TOP LEFT: unthinkable, which is perhaps why it is said that the ghost Queensberry of the half-eaten servant boy still appears occasionally and House plans; Catherine Douglas, will continue to do so until the Queensberry family curse Duchess of finally comes to an end. Presumably though, this idea of a Queensberry; curse has brought little comfort to the grieving family Queensberry House members through the centuries. S

© ERAZA COLLECTION/SHAUN A DALEY/CHRONICLE/FLORILEGIUS/ALAMY/CLAUDINE VAN MASSENHOVE/SHUTTERSTOCK

Lady Catherine had been frequently restrained in a strait jacket and she hated the Scots

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scotland today

42 Scotland

| Made in Islay

Made in Islay |

scotland today

Words by JENNY ROWE

CRAFTY PEOPLE Though it’s known to many as the ‘whisky isle’, the people of Islay have far more diverse talents when it comes to producing local wares

© VISIT SCOTLAND/JOHN DUNCAN/JANE TAYLOR/WWW.ISLAYWHISKYDISTILLERYPRINTS.CO.UK/ MARK UNSWORTH/WWW.ISLAYSTUDIOS.CO.UK

J

ust 10 minutes after arriving at Port Askaig on Islay by ferry, we embark on a hike from Bunnahabhain Distillery to Ruvaal Lighthouse, the most northerly point of the Inner Hebridean island. Trudging through the saturated peat bog is hard work, and a reminder of why Islay is renowned around the world as the ‘whisky isle’. This wonderful but waterlogged landscape provides the building blocks for Islay’s nine active whisky distilleries and their distinctly peaty products – it has done since the 14th century.

The Paps of Jura, shrouded by cloud, loom on our right, and as we hit our stride, we begin to appreciate Islay’s other allures: its shaggy coastline, swathes of untouched countryside and the resulting variety of rare wildlife, such as choughs, that thrive here. The sun sinks low, crowning our surroundings with golden light, and the beauty of the so-called ‘Queen of the Hebrides’ comes into sharp focus. It is no surprise that a growing number of artists and makers are choosing Islay as their fount of creative inspiration.

Ceramic artist Rosemary Fletcher is one such resident. She was entranced by the Inner Hebrides from the age of seven, when she first heard the gripping tale of the Corryvreckan Whirlpool, the world’s third largest, which lies just off the coast of Jura.

On a trip from London where she lived at the time, it was here that Rosemary first crossed paths with her husbandto-be, Donald, who quite literally swept her off her feet at a ceilidh held in the aftermath of a gruelling local fell race up

the Paps themselves. The couple have lived and worked at the Fletcher family farm in the north of Islay ever since. Here Rosemary runs Persabus Pottery, as well as offering selfcatering and B&B-style accommodation to holidaymakers.

Rosemary’s ‘Saligo’ and ‘Killinallan’ ranges are just two within her growing collection that have specific geographic influences. The latter, for example, is inspired by memories of long days spent on the beautiful eponymous beach, which is sheltered by steep sand dunes.

“Each piece has its own story to tell,” she muses. “Stories of days spent exploring the craggy hills, a young family in

TOP LEFT: Islay’s rugged coastline and sparkling sea BOTTOM LEFT: ‘Port Charlotte from The Pier’, by printmaker Jane Taylor BELOW: Mark Unsworth’s photography takes inspiration from Islay’s natural and industrial world

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| Made in Islay

Through her craft, Rosemary is able to evoke a breath of the Hebrides in the homes of her customers all over the world, who are, in her words, part of the “wider Islay community”

ABOVE: You’re more likely to bump into a herd of sheep or deer than a person on Islay and Jura TOP RIGHT: A milk bottle vase, part of Persabus Pottery’s ‘Misty Isle’ range BOTTOM RIGHT: One of the Dobcross looms used at Islay Woollen Mill

44 Scotland

tow, going on ‘bear hunts’ through the peaty bogs and tussocky grass; stories of wild swimming in the refreshing turquoise waters, the gentle lapping waves carrying me ever so gently back to the shore.”

The glazing and firing process seals each vision into something tangible and, importantly, shareable. Through her craft, Rosemary is able to evoke a breath of the Hebrides in the homes of her customers all over the world, who are, in her words, part of the “wider Islay community”.

Down the road from Port Askaig, before you reach Bridgend, you’ll happen upon the Islay Woollen Mill, which also has global reach.

The mill was first established in 1883, then reopened by Gordon and Sheila Covell, who have run it ever since. They produce quality woven fabrics, such as tweed and tartan, using two restored Dobcross looms dating from the 1920s.

Their cloth designs have featured in huge blockbuster films such as Braveheart, Forrest Gump, Rob Roy and War Horse; products made up of these fabrics remain popular with tourists.

Without the Hollywood hallmark, Rosemary’s pottery business relies on the support of locals as well as tourists, and this has been particularly true during the pandemic.

Luckily, Rosemary is proud to report that the encouragement, praise and positivity she receives from the islanders seems limitless. She receives many one-off commissions, and, in normal times, local guest accommodation use and display her pottery by way of free advertising.

Likewise, Jane Taylor is a local artist and printmaker, who enjoys the tight-knit island community: “Islay is a friendly place to be. Whether you are on a bike or in a vehicle you will get the famous Islay hand wave or nod in acknowledgement of one person to another.”

After living in landlocked Oxfordshire and attending art school in Bradford, Jane fell in love with Islay. Her studio and shop is based at Islay House Square, which was first established by Walter Campbell in the 1790s as serving quarters for Islay House, where the Campbells of Cawdor lived until 1847.

Today, the square in Bridgend is a buzzing hub of likeminded Ileachs. Capturing the raw, elemental atmosphere of the island, Jane has developed ‘Celtic Creatures’ and ‘Wildlife’ ranges, but she is also inspired “by the architecture of the various whisky distilleries; their pagoda shaped roofs and whitewashed warehouses marked with large black lettering that can be viewed from the sea.”

Whisky isn’t the only spirit distilled here, though. Next door to Jane’s workshop is Nerabus Gin, the first and only company solely dedicated to producing gin on the island.

Though some of Islay’s whisky distilleries have branched out into gin production on the side, former forensic scientist Dr John Gow and his wife and business partner Dr Audrey Gow have focused all their energy and expertise on their Hebridean gin recipe, which was lovingly developed over a number of years using a single still in their kitchen.

Its juniper base combines with herbs, spices and an infusion of wild Islay heather to create a unique dry gin character. Though it can be shipped internationally, the couple’s new visitor centre and shop at Islay House Square allows Audrey to tell their story and market their gin alongside the wares of other local makers, such as Oa Artisan, who hand-knit hats and snoods from alpaca wool.

In return, Nerabus has garnered the support of some of the most established and high-end establishments on the island.

The Machrie Hotel & Golf Links, which won Scottish Hotel of the Year 2020 at the Scottish Hotel Awards, serve Nerabus G&Ts with a sweeping view over their prestigious golf course and private beach.

Within Islay House Square, you’ll also find the Mackinnon’s Marmalade deli and Islay Studios, an art gallery curated by Mark Unsworth, who moved to the island from the West Midlands in search of a slower pace of life. This he found in abundance. With nowhere to rush to or from, Mark found that he could spend more time thinking about the composition of his photography work. Of course, it helps that Islay offers such a solid foundation: “With the prevailing weather coming from the west and straight over the Atlantic Ocean, the air and light quality is as pure as can be,” Mark explains. “This makes for clear skies and some magical

© ISLAY WOOLLEN MILL/ROSEMARY FLETCHER/WWW.PERABUS POTTERY.COM

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Made in Islay |

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Scotland 45

ABOVE: One of The Machrie Hotel’s many stylish, cosy lounges

46 Scotland

| Made in Islay

sunsets, without haze. This is a total inspiration for me.”

Alongside his own photography, Mark showcases the Islay-themed work of other artists and craftspeople. He echoes the words of fellow creative Rosemary when he says that shopping local (even with the internet’s interference) is the done thing on Islay. However, it’s not just a show of loyalty, it’s also practical: “Ultimately, Islay is an island, so getting goods or services away, such as going to Glasgow, is a costly affair in terms of both time and money.”

Plus, the ‘whisky isle’ has a trump card to play when it comes to keeping its economy afloat. Out of its nine whisky distilleries, seven are owned by global conglomerates. Mark explains that if these distilleries were on the mainland, then all of their sourcing could and would be randomly spread throughout the UK or beyond.

“When Bruichladdich distillery reopened in 2001, for example, they had a policy of trying to support local business wherever possible. They still do this, and other distilleries have slowly followed suit,” he continues. “I don’t think a global brand would support individual contractors like this anywhere else.”

It’s clear that though these independent businesses have the local community to thank for much of their success, the island’s historic whisky credentials still play their part in keeping its enterprising spirit alive. Yet, far from being a one-trick pony, Islay has well and truly diversified, and when you can visit, you’ll see for yourself why so many artists and craftspeople make it their home and the dynamic subject of their life’s work. S

ISLAY’S CRAFT TRAIL PERSABUS POTTERY Visit the studio or order hand-painted pieces online. persabuspottery.com

PERSABUS FARM Stay in the farmhouse or in a self-catering cottage on this working farm. persabus.co.uk

ISLAY WOOLLEN MILL Buy traditional tartan and tweed as seen on the big screen. islaywoollenmill.co.uk

JANE TAYLOR Many of Jane’s linocut prints are inspired by the isle’s whisky distilleries. islaywhiskydistillery prints.co.uk

NERABUS GIN Why stick to whisky when

you can sample and buy some Islay-distilled gin too? islayginltd.com

THE MACHRIE HOTEL & GOLF LINKS Nerabus Gin is served at the Scottish Hotel of the Year 2020. www.campbellgrayhotels. com/machrie-islay-scotland/

MACKINNON’S MARMALADE Pick up marmalades, jams, jellies, chutneys and other local produce for your picnic here. mackinnons-marmalade. business.site

ISLAY STUDIOS View some of photographer Mark Unsworth’s framed work in his small gallery. islaystudios.co.uk

© JAMES MCDONLAD/THE MACHRIE HOTEL & GOLF LINKS

scotland today

Promotion CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: Sea otter; a guest comes face-to-face with a stag; sea eagle; dolphins

JOURNEY TO JURA Take a tour with Discover Jura by Land & Sea for a wild experience you won’t forget

STAY ON JURA

© DAN OZMEC

V

■ If you’d like to stay on Jura, try Alba Cottage, a beautiful threebedroom self-catering cottage that comfortably sleeps five guests.

The cottage is situated in the village of Craighouse and is just a 10-minute walk from the Jura Hotel, Jura Distillery, Jura Community Store and The Antlers tearoom and gift shop.

You can watch the otters swim by from the huge picture window in the living room and there is a fantastic sandy beach just 50 yards in front of the cottage, plus parking for two cars. alba-cottage-jura.co.uk

isiting Islay’s north-easterly neighbour couldn’t be easier, just hop on the Jura Ferry for a short five-minute crossing to another world.

Discover Jura by Land & Sea offers day tours around the isle, where you’ll be in the expert hands of two locals: driver and guide Alex, who is known for his laugh-out-loud stories and vast knowledge of both local history and culture, and Robert, skipper of the rigid inflatable boat (RIB), Jura Explorer, who will show you a different aspect of Jura from the water.

Tours begin with a luxury minibus tour of the isle where Alex will regale you with tales of Clan Macdonald, who ruled Islay and Jura (indeed much of the western isles) during their time as Lords of the Isles. Your raised elevation improves your chances of seeing the island’s many red deer and other wildlife as you travel to the island’s largest settlement, Craighouse, for insight into the isle’s more recent history.

Next, you’ll be whisked off to Jura Distillery – the island’s only distillery – for a tour and a couple of wee drams.

Afterwards, Robert will take you on a ‘Round the Bay’ trip in his custom-built RIB to visit a seal colony and hopefully point out some porpoises and dolphins too, who often come out to feed or to play.

Lunch will be served in the excellent family-run Jura Hotel and then Alex will pick you up again and take you to see other Jura sights, including Lussa Gin Distillery (when it’s not distilling).

If there’s time before the ferry back to Islay, you’ll stop off for a light refreshment at Tea on the Beach, where you can quite often see red deer as you enjoy your cuppa.

Alex and Robert love taking visitors round their island home. Alex says: “It doesn’t really feel like work as I get to share Jura with like-minded souls and see the island in all its various moods”.

They are confident that you will enjoy your time on Jura and very much look forward to giving you a warm Dhiurach welcome when you are able to visit. S To find out more about booking a tour with Discover Jura by Land & Sea, go to discoverjura.co.uk

Scotland 47

be e n m 2 ca y ti 202 e iz an e Pr en Jun k ta ore f be

WIN a Great British holiday YOUR ONCE-IN-A-LIFETIME TRIP INCLUDES:

• Free international flights (if applicable) • One-night London stay • Two-night Edinburgh stay • Tickets to Blenheim Palace • Visit to Edinburgh Castle • A night in a Cotswolds hotel • West End tickets & dinner

Enter our competition for your chance to win a holiday in Britain for two worth up to £5,000, including free international flights

W

hat would your dream holiday to Britain include? A five-star stay in London and tickets to a West End show? A trip to historic Edinburgh? How about a stay in the Cotswolds, including a visit to one of Britain’s finest stately homes? Well, with our Great British Holiday competition, you can win all of this and more.

LONDON LUXURY Starting with free flights (for overseas entrants), the winner and their guest will travel to London for a luxury one-night stay at the Athenaeum, a five-star hotel in the heart of Mayfair – just a short stroll from Buckingham 48 Scotland

Palace, Piccadilly Circus and the Royal Parks.

Your visit will also include tickets to a top West End show of your choice, with a lavish three-course meal with wine at Prezzo to make your night one to remember.

HISTORIC EDINBURGH Next, our winner and their guest will head to Edinburgh for a stay at the luxury Radisson Collection Edinburgh, located on the famous Royal Mile, with stunning views of the Old Town. During your stay you’ll visit the iconic 12th-century Edinburgh Castle, which dominates the city’s skyline, followed by a special three-course dinner.

THE CHARMING COTSWOLDS To conclude your trip, it’s time to escape to the countryside to visit one of Britain’s finest stately homes and the birthplace of Winston Churchill: Blenheim Palace.

Accommodation for the night will be at Minster Mill, a glamorous and luxurious hotel on the banks of the River Windrush in the historic village of Minster Lovell.

After a full English breakfast, you can take advantage of the hotel’s top-class facilities – from its spa to its croquet lawn – or explore your surroundings: the idyllic Oxfordshire Cotswolds are home to some of England’s most beautiful villages.

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Includes breakfast. www.minstermill.co.uk

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Visit Edinburgh Castle, the Scottish capital’s unmissable historic attraction, followed by a three-course dinner for two from go-to gift experience company Red Letter Days. www.redletterdays.co.uk

HOW TO ENTER Go to www.scotlandmag.com/ gbh2021 or fill in the coupon on the right with the answer to the question:

Question: Which famous Brit was born at Blenheim Palace? a) Isaac Newton b) Queen Victoria c) Winston Churchill

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Scotland 49

heroes of scotland

50 Scotland

| Sir Walter Scott 250

Sir Walter Scott 250 |

heroes of scotland

© ANGUS BREMNER/COURTESY OF THE FACULTY OF ADVOCATES ABBOTSFORD COLLECTION TRUST/VISIT SCOTLAND/KENNY LAM

LEFT: The Scott Monument is an iconic landmark in Edinburgh RIGHT: Portrait of Sir Walter Scott

by Henry Raeburn, c.1820s

Words by FIONA LAING

GREAT SCOTT Scotland’s early tourist industry was enriched by Sir Walter Scott, the author and poet who was born 250 years ago in Edinburgh

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| Sir Walter Scott 250

S

References to Rob Roy MacGregor – the real man behind Scott’s folk hero – are all around Loch Lomond and The Trossachs

52 Scotland

ir Walter Scott, the writer, politician and man of the law, left his mark on Scotland: a bookcase full of classic novels and poems, a fascinating stately home in the Borders, a clutch of impressive monuments in his honour and a railway station named after his work. As Scotland emerges from the pandemic, eager to welcome visitors back, it is interesting to recall how Scott – born 250 years ago in 1771 – sowed the seeds of today’s tourism industry.

“Initially through his poetry Scott gives very detailed and evocative descriptions of the Scottish landscape,” says Professor Ali Lumsden, co-director of the Walter Scott Research Centre at Aberdeen University.

“He sets wonderful stories against those landscapes, which capture people’s imagination and make them want to go and see things for themselves.”

She adds that tourists were already visiting Scotland in Scott’s day thanks to accounts of the 1773 Highland tours of Samuel Johnson and James Boswell and James Macpherson’s Ossian poems, published in 1761.

“What Scott does is consolidate that, so the number of tourists explodes. Feeding into that is the rise of printing and reading and Scott is fortunate that his books are sold in unprecedented numbers. The fact that he told good stories made him popular.”

Scott’s works were also quickly adapted into operas and dramas, so that by the 1820s people were encountering his vision of Scotland in several ways.

“There are other things happening. The Napoleonic Wars close off Europe as a tourist destination so people can’t go on the Grand Tour and Scotland becomes the destination of choice,” adds Lumsden.

Nowhere is the legacy of Scott more obvious than at Loch Katrine in the Trossachs. Visitors today flock to the picturesque loch that Scott used as the setting for his third narrative poem, The Lady of the Lake.

Published in 1810, it was an immediate hit and visitors were soon heading to see where he wrote lines such as these: The western waves of ebbing day Rolled o’er the glen their level way; Each purple peak, each flinty spire, Was bathed in floods of living fire.

The publication seven years later of Rob Roy, the third of his hugely popular Waverley novels, just added to the area’s appeal.

TOP LEFT: The Entrance Hall “We justly claim Loch Katrine is at Abbotsford the birthplace of tourism in Scotland LEFT: SS Sir Walter largely because of Sir Walter Scott,” Scott sails towards Stronachlachar says James Fraser, chairman of the

Sir Walter Scott 250 |

heroes of scotland

© ANGUS BREMNER/ABBOTSFORD TRUST/VISIT SCOTLAND/PAUL TOMKINS

RIGHT: Abbotsford, the home of Sir Walter Scott in the Borders

Friends of Loch Lomond and the Trossachs. “He was Scotland’s ‘first tourist officer’ thanks to the power of what he wrote. The vivid descriptions of landscapes and characters had sightseers flocking to the area.”

The wealthy travellers heading north for an alternative Grand Tour were joined by poets like William Wordsworth and artists such as Alexander Nasmyth who captured the Romantic atmosphere and spread the Trossachs’ fame further still.

This interest was also fanned by the fact that travel was becoming increasingly easy. Early visitors arrived by carriage and were rowed around the loch in Water-Witch, an eightoared wooden galley. It was only a little more than a decade after Scott’s death that the first paddle steamer Gypsy replaced the man-powered boat.

Pioneering tour operator Thomas Cook ran a group visit to the Trossachs as his first in Scotland in 1846, only five years after starting his business.

By the time Queen Victoria sailed on the loch in 1859, she could travel by train to Callander where the railway station had opened the year before.

Today, visitors can still sail on the loch, seeing Factor’s Island, where Rob Roy imprisoned the Duke of Montrose’s factor in a dispute over tenants’ rents and Ellen’s Isle, the inspiration for the stag hunt in the opening of The Lady of the Lake.

On land, references to Rob Roy MacGregor – the real man behind Scott’s folk hero – are all around the Trossachs, with his birthplace at Glengyle and home at Balquhidder, for example, all offering resonant destinations for hikers and cyclists alike.

In the Borders, other aspects of Scott’s contribution to tourism are evident. It was here, where as a child he had spent much time with his grandparents on their farm, he encountered the folklore, which first brought him his fame.

The oral tradition of recounting tales of past events, myths and legends fired his own creativity.

His first work, his collection of Borders ballads, Minstrelsy of the Scottish Border published in 1802, gave him an audience; then in 1805 his own composition, his first poem, The Lay of the Last Minstrel, cemented his fame.

These works planted vivid descriptions of Borders landmarks in the minds of his readers, who wanted to see for themselves places such as Melrose Abbey, where in

IN SIR WALTER SCOTT’S FOOTSTEPS LOCH KATRINE AND THE TROSSACHS Sail on the loch that so inspired Scott on the Sir Walter Scott steamship, or explore the hills and forests where Rob Roy roamed. The path to the site of Roderick Dhu’s watchtower, where Scott would have spent time drinking in the inspiration of Katrine’s waters below, has been restored and there are plans for a new outlook tower.

Check out the Great Trossachs Path and Rob Roy Way for exploring more widely on foot. lochkatrine.com; thegreattrossachsforest.co.uk; robroyway.com

MELROSE AND THE BORDERS See where Scott lived and visit Abbotsford, the house he described as a “conundrum”, which is both a magical Gothic invention and a modern masterpiece, with innovations such as gas lighting and heated greenhouses. Explore the estate and take a moment in the new Mindfulness Garden created to mark this year’s anniversary. Melrose and Dryburgh abbeys and Smailholm Tower are nearby landmarks in Scott’s life. scottsabbotsford.com

WAVERLEY STATION This is the only railway station named after a work of fiction. Originally there were three stations built in the 1840s to serve Edinburgh. From 1854 these three stations were collectively known as ‘Waverley’, named after Scott’s series of historical novels.

In 2014, to mark the 200th anniversary of the publication of the first book, the station was decorated with quotes from Scott’s writings.

What better a send off for travellers as they head north to Stirling and the Trossachs or south on the Waverley Line to the Borders? scotrail.co.uk/scotland-by-rail/ borders-railway

THE SCOTT MONUMENT The Scott Monument is one of the most impressive memorials of all time. Piercing the Edinburgh skyline, the 200ft Gothic tower affords those fit enough to climb its 287 steps magnificent views, while those below wait with the larger-than-life marble figures of Scott and his dog, Maida. Look out for statues of Scott elsewhere in both Glasgow and Perth. edinburghmuseums.org.uk/venue/ scott-monument

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| Sir Walter Scott 250

LEFT: Scott’s View moonlight “buttress and buttress near Melrose alternately, seem framed of ebon and BELOW: A light ivory”. show at Smailholm By the mid-1820s when Scott had Tower in the Borders launched completed Abbotsford, his dramatic the Scott250 home on the banks of the River celebrations Tweed near Melrose, visitors to the area were numerous.

Scott himself was popular and hospitable. “He had a stream of guests staying,” says Giles Ingram, chief executive of Abbotsford. “In his journal he talks of his routine. He’d rise early and descend from his bedroom using a spiral staircase in one of the towers into his study. He’d emerge once he’d written his pages for the day and then be the social host.”

Lumsden adds: “We know from his correspondence and his journal that when people turned up at Abbotsford and wanted to meet him, he nearly always made time for them. I think at times that was a bit of burden: he’d rather get on and write his novels. But he never turned them away and he was always very, very welcoming.”

After Scott’s death in 1832, the visitors continued. “His family weren’t financially well off and visitors were charged to see the house,” explains Ingram.

“For that reason, the rooms people visit today are so remarkably untouched. They are very much as Scott left them because that is what people wanted to see. By the 1850s, the numbers were so high that the family had to change the entrance into the house to accommodate the visitors,” he adds.

In his lifetime, Scott was adamant the estate was open to anyone. And that tradition of free access continues with thousands enjoying the grounds through the pandemic.

Scott’s warm welcome – and the fact he was one of the most famous living Scotsmen of his time – made SIR WALTER SCOTT him the obvious person to host a 250 CELEBRATIONS visit by the new king, George IV, to Events to mark the 250th Edinburgh in 1822. With plenty of anniversary of Scott’s birth colourful pageantry and the king are planned until August 2022, dressed in tartan, once again Scott with celebrations taking place was nourishing the flourishing both in person and online. interest in his country.

Go to the Sir Walter Scott 250 Scott’s role in developing Scotland website to find out how you as a tourist destination might have can join in, no matter where been an unexpected consequence of you are in the world. the circumstances of his times, but it walterscott250.com must surely be considered one of the most valuable parts of his legacy. S

54 Scotland

© VISIT SCOTLAND/IAN RUTHERFORD/JANE BARLOW/PA WIRE/PA IMAGES

“The rooms people visit today are remarkably untouched. They are very much as Scott left them because that is what people wanted to see”

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the great outdoors

56 Scotland

| Ben Nevis

Ben Nevis |

the great outdoors

BIG BEN Scotland’s highest munro is not to be taken lightly and there are lots of places to view it if you don’t want to go all the way to the top Words by KEITH FERGUS

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the great outdoors

58 Scotland

| Ben Nevis

Ben Nevis |

the great outdoors

© WWW.SCOTTISHHORIZONS.CO.UK/KEITH FERGUS

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tand on the banks of the Caledonian Canal, at Corpach, a couple of miles north of Fort William, and look east. Here you will be treated to one of the finest views in Scotland, one that takes in a mountain of such epic proportions that it dwarves everything below, a mountain that rises higher than any other point in Britain.

That mountain, of course, is Ben Nevis. Ben Nevis rises to 1,345m (4,411 feet) above sea level, and it is a huge mountain in every respect. Its circumference measures approximately 17.5km (11 miles) around its base while its bulk can be seen from many miles around, from Skye in the Inner Hebrides to the Arctic plateau of the Cairngorms, some 90km (56 miles) to the northeast.

Being Britain’s highest peak, Ben Nevis is, unsurprisingly, an extremely popular mountain to climb.

Around 125,000 walkers reach the summit annually with most ascents made via the Mountain Track that rises from Glen Nevis. Although this is the simplest means of reaching the top, it is still a very challenging 17km (10.5-mile) route – even on a clear summer’s day – with around 1,352m (4,400 feet) to climb and then descend. Tired knees and aching thighs are a regular occurrence when walkers finally return to the Glen Nevis visitor centre having climbed ‘The Ben’, as Ben Nevis is affectionately known.

The derivation of the name ‘Nevis’ has been open to much conjecture, but it is thought to mean ‘venomous’, from the Old Gaelic ‘Nimheis’ and, certainly, in some weather conditions its name is wholly appropriate; a climb to the summit during wintry, wet or windy conditions means Ben Nevis takes on a different guise entirely. Especially when enveloped in an icy garb.

Snow can linger in and around the summit well into the summer but during the winter months snow can lie thick on the lower slopes – removing any sign of the path – while it can be several feet deep at the top. Likewise, snow cornices can also cover the steep cliff edges of Ben Nevis’s celebrated North Face well into summer and real care should be taken, at any time, if approaching the lip.

There can also be a difference of around 10 degrees centigrade between Glen Nevis and the summit of Ben Nevis. As such, if it’s zero degrees at the base then it could be a toe-numbing -10 on the summit plateau. Add in wind chill and you have temperatures that become dangerous. Consequently, always dress appropriately for the forecast and seriously consider how quickly the weather can change.

Ben Nevis also has several different sides to it. From the attractive shores of Loch Linnhe – a sea loch that flows southwest from Fort William – the mountain takes on a rounded form with, what appears to be, a flattish summit. However, to fully appreciate the true extent of Ben Nevis’s grandeur and scale then it must be seen from the banks of Allt a’ Mhuilinn (the Stream of the Mill) or, even better, from the neighbouring peak of Càrn Mòr Dearg (the Big Red Cairn).

From Allt a’ Mhuilinn the astonishing north face of Ben Nevis, and its many corries and cliffs, such as Tower Ridge and Five Finger Gully, make this side one of the best mountaineering locations in the world, and it never fails to take the breath away.

A superb 11km (seven-mile) walk along a good path, leaves from the North Face Car Park at Torlundy, and rises along the banks of Allt a’ Mhuilinn to reach the Charles Inglis Clark (CIC) Memorial Hut that sits beneath the incredible crags of the north face.

Here, the walker is surrounded by one of the finest landscapes in Scotland, one with a real Alpine quality, with the colossal buttresses of Coire Leis and Càrn Mòr Dearg rising skywards for several hundred metres. Golden eagles may be seen high on the thermals above with carnivorous sundew, bog asphodel, tormentil, rowan, birch and hawthorn lining the path and riverbank.

The hut sits at 680m (2,231 feet) above sea level and was built in 1928-29 by William and Jane Inglis Clark as a memorial to their son, Charles, who was killed in action during the First World War. Extensive refurbishment of the CIC Hut took place between 2008-12 and it can

PREVIOUS PAGE: Ben Nevis as seen from the Allt a’ Mhuilinn Trail, Torlundy, Lochaber ABOVE: Ben Nevis, as seen from Corpach LEFT: The Charles Inglis Clark Memorial Hut lies under the crags of Ben Nevis’s north face

This is one of the finest landscapes in Scotland, with the colossal Coire Leis and Càrn Mòr Dearg rising skywards

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the great outdoors

| Ben Nevis

ABOVE: Many walkers will encounter a red deer or two during their ascent RIGHT: Looking over Loch Eil towards Ben Nevis

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now accommodate 24 people, with six places reserved at weekends during winter for members of the Scottish Mountaineering Club.

A classic round of Ben Nevis also takes in the aforementioned Càrn Mòr Dearg that rises to 1,220m (4,003 feet) to the east of Ben Nevis. Linked by the graceful curve of the infamous Càrn Mòr Dearg Arête (an airy crest with sharp drops on either side), the route onto Ben Nevis is perhaps only for those with a good head for heights. Yet even if your walk goes no further that Càrn Mòr Dearg, the view towards the sharp cliffs and corries of Ben Nevis is utterly captivating.

However, it is an ascent of the Mountain Track, which was built in 1883 as an access route for the summit Observatory, that the majority of walkers will take. And what a walk it is. From the visitor centre a bridge crosses the River Nevis after which a well-engineered path rises past Achintee Farm onto The Ben’s lower slopes. Almost immediately, fabulous views open out along Glen Nevis to Stob Ban (The White Peak). It is then a long push upwards – where red deer and the rare mountain ringlet butterfly may be spotted – eventually crossing the gushing waters of Allt na h-Urchaire (the Red Burn), before climbing above beautiful Lochan Meall an t’Suidhe, known as the Halfway Lochan. This is actually a misnomer as the halfway point is a little higher up, from where an extraordinary vista stretches over Meall an t’Suidhe and along Loch Eil. A rougher, tougher walk up a series of zigzags finally gains the sprawling, barren summit plateau of Ben Nevis and a truly awe-inspiring panorama.

Across Glen Nevis the Mamores (a range of 10 munros – Scottish mountains over 914m/3,000 feet in PLAN YOUR VISIT height) provide a spectacular vista almost close enough GETTING THERE MOUNTAIN ADVICE to touch, while on a clear day Schiehallion, Skye’s The nearest train station For advice and information Cuillin ridge, the mountains of Glencoe and the Paps is Fort William, which the on tackling the Ben, go to of Jura are all visible.

Caledonian Sleeper arrives at the Ben Nevis Visitor Centre, Snow bunting and ptarmigan may well be seen from London every morning either in person or online. scuttling around the rocks and boulders. Yet it is the except Sunday. There are Don’t attempt the climb remains of the Ben Nevis Observatory that sit also excellent connections to without doing this. incongruously on the summit. Meteorologist Clement Glasgow, Edinburgh, Inverness highlifehighland.com/ Wragge prepared the ground for the observatory, and other major stations. bennevis/visitor-centre climbing Ben Nevis every day for five months in 1881 sleeper.scot; scotrail.co.uk while his wife, Leonora, made comparative surveys GET A GUIDE from Fort William. Clement took the first recorded WHERE TO STAY By far the safest way to climb meteorological data on Ben Nevis later that year.

Ben Nevis is with a guide, who The Inverlochy Castle Hotel is As well as being Britain’s highest mountain, Ben can assess weather conditions a grand country house hotel Nevis also sits directly in the path of Atlantic storms, and keep you on the right on the banks of a loch with which is why it made the perfect location for the path. The Highland Mountain an Albert & Michel Roux Jr observatory. It was open between 1883 and 1904 and Company offers guided restaurant, just a short drive scientists lived and worked at the very top of Britain climbs, with experts with away from the Glen Nevis for two decades, with the building, instruments and many years’ experience, who centre. A short distance meteorologists withstanding some of Scotland’s can also teach you about the further, Ardrhu House, on severest weather conditions. mountain environment the shores of Loch Linnhe, With its height, bulk and weather, Ben Nevis is a as you walk. is a boutique hotel and spa mountain that requires our respect. Yet, because of the thehighlandmountain in a restored baronial house. challenge to reach its summit, the wildlife that can be company.co.uk/ inverlochycastlehotel.com; seen en route and the views that extend from almost bennevismountaintrack ardrhuhouse.com every inch of its slopes, it is also a mountain that is easy to love. S

© VISIT SCOTLAND/PAUL TOMKINS

A rougher, tougher walk up a series of zigzags finally gains the sprawling, barren summit and a truly awe-inspiring panorama

Ben Nevis |

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sCotLaNd todaY

| Highland dancers

Words by SALLY COFFEY

AT THE TOP OF THEIR GAME

Beret Dernbach, current World Junior Champion, reveals what it’s like to compete in the World Highland Dance Championships

ABOVE: There are also dance competitions at the Ballater Highland Games OPPOSITE PAGE, CLOCKWISE, FROM TOP LEFT: Cowal Highland Gathering World Championship trophy winners; winning competitors celebrate; Beret Dernbach; the prestigious gold medal, of which only three are produced each year (one for each age group)

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B

eret Dernbach is just 18 years old and yet she has won the World Junior Championships for Highland dancing twice and has been named US Champion three times (she is reigning champion for both).

Of course, to reach this level of skill takes time and dedication. Beret practises dancing for at least one hour every day and attends private dancing lessons two to three times per week. During summer holidays, she usually practises twice a day to prepare for the bigger summer competitions.

But how did a young girl from San Diego, USA, become so involved in Highland dancing? The answer for Beret is simple: she holds her Scottish heritage very close.

“My gran was born in Scotland and emigrated to Canada,” she says, “Then my mom emigrated to the United States, where I was born. I still have relatives living in Scotland, who we visit when we are able to go over there.”

Beret’s mum, Allison, competed in Highland dancing when she was young, but it was never really her intention for her daughter to follow in her springing footsteps.

Allison tried to ignite Beret’s interest in a number of activities (ballet, skating, gymnastics) to no avail, but as soon as Beret attended her first Highland dancing class, aged five, she was hooked: “I’ve been doing it ever since,” Beret says.

For Beret, Highland dancing is now a major part of her life. Most months there is a competition somewhere, many within reasonable driving distance or a short flight away, but some are further afield, like the ScotDance Canada Championship Series or the ScotDance USA Championships.

However, the pinnacle of Highland dancing achievement is competing at the World Championships held at the Cowal Highland Gathering each August. Each year (2020 and 2021 aside) mother and

Highland dancers |

scotland today

daughter, take an annual two- to three-week pilgrimage to Dunoon, travelling with Beret’s dance teacher and sometimes other pupils from the dancing school to take part.

Highland dancing has been part of the Cowal Highland Gathering since it started in 1894. In the early days, Highland dancing was primarily a male pursuit, with most participants coming from the Scottish regiments. Over time the balance has completely changed and at Cowal over 95 per cent of competitors are now female.

For obvious reasons, this year’s gathering and the championships have been cancelled, but usually dancers compete in three championships: Juvenile for ages 12 to 15, Junior for ages 16 and 17, and Adult for ages 18 and over. Dancers are seeded based on past performance and are split into two heats. The top 10 scoring dancers in each heat then qualify to compete in the finals on the Saturday.

“The Cowal Highland Gathering is my favourite event of the year, ” Beret says.“After spending the whole year working on that year’s steps, Cowal is my opportunity to show the judges and the world what I have to offer.

“There’s obviously quite a bit of pressure to dance my best and do well but that doesn’t detract from how fun and exciting the weekend is. It’s every dancer’s dream to dance on those famous Cowal boards, and at the end of the day, regardless of the results, it’s such an amazing experience.”

However, luckily for Beret, the results tend to be good. “My proudest accomplishment is winning the World Championships twice – in 2018 and 2019. Winning worlds had been my lifelong goal and it was

© VISIT SCOTLAND/DAVID N ANDERSON

“It’s every dancer’s dream to dance on those famous Cowal boards, and, regardless of the results, it’s such an amazing experience”

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| Highland dancers

As well as delighting spectators with their dancing, young Highland dancers also act as ambassadors to Scotland

amazing to finally accomplish it. I am also quite proud of winning three United States Championships, two North American Championships, five Western Region Championships, and other titles locally and abroad.”

But with lockdown bringing a halt to all competitive dancing, has Beret taken the time to put her tired feet up? Not so for this committed dancer.

“Even though we’re not able to compete right now, I am still practising hard in anticipation of my next competition, whenever

and wherever that may be,” she says.

“I practise at least one hour daily plus an additional hour of cross training/stretching and attend lessons regularly either virtually or in person.”

Beret has found time to practise over FaceTime with Kate, another dancer from her dancing class, though. “I look forward to it every week because we get a chance to laugh and joke around in addition to going over our corrections. We take our dancing very seriously, but we also have fun with it,” she says.

Indeed, something that might come as a surprise to people is that there is a real sense of camaraderie between the dancers: “I’ve met some of my best friends through Highland dancing,” Beret says. “At the end of the day, regardless of how the day went or who ended up winning, we all are so excited to go back to the hotel and meet at the pool or go out for dinner after the competition is done.”

Beret’s mum, Allison, says this sense of shared experience is equally strong among parents: “ Last year, the mother of Cole Leslie [current Canadian Junior Champion – Ed] and I chose to sit together at the

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© VISIT SCOTLAND/DAVID N ANDERSON

scotland today

Highland dancers |

World Championships as the mothers of the current US and Canadian Junior Champions, competing against each other for the world title. We cheered on both of our kids, and despite the competitiveness, there is no one else I would have preferred to sit with.”

As well as delighting spectators with their dancing, young Highland dancers also act as ambassadors to Scotland.

“Highland dancing has also given me some great non-competitive opportunities. I have danced on the news several times to promote events,” Beret says. “I participated in an ad campaign for The Queen Mary Scotsfestival in Long Beach, which led to me being on a billboard, and I even got to do a dance called the Earl of Errol for the future Earl of Errol.”

What next for this young lady who has already achieved so much?

“My goal is to win at least one more World Championship title,” she says. “This time it will have to be in the 18 and over Adult division, which is actually much more difficult as the older dancers have an advantage over the younger dancers because they are much more experienced. It will not be an easy goal to accomplish, but I am working hard every day to try to accomplish it.”

Beret also hopes to pass her skill and passion on to a new generation of Highland dancers, by earning her teaching credentials this year.

“Highland dancing has given me so many great opportunities and life lessons and I cannot wait to pass those along to my future students,” she says. S You can keep up to date with the latest on the 2022 World Highland Dance Championships and Cowal Highland Gathering at cowalgathering.com

scotland today

ABOVE: Dancers at the Ballater Highland Games OPPOSITE PAGE, CLOCKWISE, FROM TOP LEFT: Dancers with Ghillie, the Gathering’s mascot; 2019 World Championship competitors; the trophy presentation at the Cowal Highland Games

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history

| The Auld Alliance

United

FOR LONG LAST The Franco-Scottish alliance still runs deep, as this Scotsman living in France has discovered Words by KEITH AITKEN

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O

n the wall of a village church in Saint-Germain-enLaye, northwest of Paris, there is a plaque that is rendered, unusually for France, in side-by-side French and English. More unusually still, it includes a word of lowland Scots. The word is “auld,” meaning old.

The plaque marks the grave of England’s last Catholic King but it is not his ascension to the English throne that takes priority. It is his reign as King of Scotland.

The English side of the inscription reads thus: “Here lies King James VII of Scotland.” Underneath, in smaller lettering: “II of England. 1633-1701.” Beneath this, it says, in French, Partenaire fidele de la Vielle Alliance Franco-Ecossaise. It is here that a dash of Scots has infiltrated the English translation: “Loyal partner in the France-Scottish Auld Alliance.”

It’s worth noting, without immediate comment, that the design copies a plaque higher up the wall, placed in 1855 by Queen Victoria. But Victoria’s memorial makes no mention of James’s Scottish origin, reign or numeral. It merely refers to an unpunctuated “James II the last Stuart King of England.”

The lower plaque was donated by the Alliance France-Écosse, of which more later.

Being in a foreign country offers two fascinations: noticing what’s different and what’s the same. Since my wife and I came to live in France over three years ago, we have enjoyed both. But one surprise was to discover that the French very often know about something we’d thought to be remembered by no-one except Scots: and not even by all of them.

The Auld Alliance was a mutual defence treaty signed between France and Scotland on 23 October 1295, pledging military co-operation against the predatory tendencies of England, known to Scots as ‘The Auld Enemy’. To be frank, it was often honoured in the breach, with the French reluctant to brave the seas to help Scotland fend off disagreeable English behaviour. But it had its decisive moments, notably when 30,000 Scots helped the French win their first major victory of the 100 Years War against England at the Siege of Orléans in 1428-29. And it lasted an astonishing time for a military pact: all of 265 years.

Only with the coming of the Reformation did a now Protestant Scotland and Catholic France amicably dissolve their formal covenant in the 1560 Treaty of Edinburgh; and then only after the Alliance had delivered a remarkable exchange of compliments. In 1513, Louis XII issued a decree which bestowed French citizenship on toute la nation d’Écosse: all the people of Scotland. Scotland returned the gesture with a reciprocal declaration in 1558. As an exchange of diplomatic esteem, it has few historical parallels.

It also tells you that, two years before the end of the formal Alliance, the friendship underpinning it was still in pretty good shape. Indeed, there are whimsical historians who insist that, since neither decree was ever formally rescinded, the French and the Scots retain to this day legal dual citizenship.

What is certain is that the habit of goodwill and friendly dialogue lasted long after the Treaty of Edinburgh. It was a Scot, John Law, who founded the Bank of France in 1716.

© PUBLIC DOMAIN SOURCED/ACCESS RIGHTS FROM DE LUAN/MARK SUNDERLAND PHOTOGRAPHY/SERGE CORNU/ALAMY

CLOCKWISE, FROM BELOW: The friendship underpinning the Auld Alliance continues today; King James VII/ II effectively abdicated when he fled London to France in December 1688; the Consulate General of France in Edinburgh

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history

| The Auld Alliance

CLOCKWISE, FROM RIGHT: The ‘Maiden’, an early form of guillotine; the Auld Alliance Trophy is awarded to the winner of the annual Six Nations match between Scotland and France; after the Auld Alliance was signed in 1295, King Edward I of England sacked Berwick-uponTweed in anger; the Scottishthemed Auld Alliance bar in Paris

And French monarchs relied on a Garde Écossaise, founded

by Charles VII, as their personal bodyguards until 1830.

The legacy would also live on, and sometimes still does, in wider influences: cultural, trade, linguistic, dietary, legislative, academic and architectural. Scotland turned the round towers and conical roofs of the château into Scottish Baronial, a style that for several centuries enlivened not just the castles of the rich (Balmoral is a flamboyant example) but the tenement skylines of cities like Edinburgh. The Palace of Holyroodhouse would not look out of place guarding a Loire vineyard.

Lawyers will list (for a fee) the similarities between Scots law and the Napoleonic Code. Or you can shiver before the ‘Maiden’ in the National Museum of Scotland, a portable guillotine that was the de rigeur execution tool in 15th-century Scotland, long before its infamy in the French Revolution.

From the 15th century, Scottish merchants were granted precedence over English in picking the best wines to import: drinking (and smuggling) claret became popular pastimes in Scotland, while many a French drinker to this day retains a whisky throat. Then there’s vocabulary. My Edinburgh grandfather called potatoes “pompatiers,” an echo of pommes de terre. You can still buy a gigot of lamb from a Scottish butcher (but pronounce it ‘jiggit’), or a meat pie on a metal ashet (assiette). Prior to the building of sewers, tenement dwellers used to hurl the contents of their chamber pots into the street below crying “gardyloo!” (gardez à l’eau).

Do Scots know why they inherited this Gallic legacy? My generation was taught very little Scottish history at school, and I’m not sure things are much better now. Besides, talk of the Auld Alliance can bring on the Caledonian Cringe, the cranky inferiority complex that comes from being no longer

In this age of shifting alliances and head-banger isolationism, these sorts of quiet friendships between nations count

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a sovereign nation. It is the kind of subject we tend to raise after the third dram as a maudlin reminder that we were once big and butch enough to have important buddies of our own.

The usual assumption is that nobody remembers it except the Scots. English folks, heaven knows, have never heard of it.

And have not the French bigger poissons to fry?

Actually, no. French people do know about the Auld Alliance. Not all of them, for sure, but many more than we had ever anticipated, and not just professional historians.

We have heard mention of it time and again from the people we meet in bars and cafés, in markets, in the wheelie-bin room at our apartment block: what populist politicians call the ‘ordinary’ people. Very often, it is they not us who broach the topic, the moment they discover that we are Scottish rather than what they had assumed. “Ah, Monsieur, but do you know …?” They say it as though unsure whether even a Scot, lacking the mighty blessing of a French education, is likely to be aware of what Charles de Gaulle called “the oldest alliance in the world.” They say it with warmth, as though pleased to have identified a bond.

At first, we wondered whether this might be peculiar to the city where we live. Montpellier is rugby-daft, and both the Scottish national team and touring sides fly the Saltire in international matches. Since 2018, the two national teams compete for the Auld Alliance Trophy, initiated to mark the centenary of the 1918 armistice and to remember the rugby stars from both countries who died in the Great War – 22 French and 30 Scottish international players, including the captains of both teams at the last pre-war meeting in 1914.

Patrick Caublot of Amiens Rugby Club, who conceived the idea, said: “The trophy underlines that the spirit of the Auld Alliance will live on.”

But it’s also clear, first, that French knowledge of the Alliance extends beyond rugby fans and, second, that its implications have spread in recent years. French schoolchildren learn more French history than Scottish children learn Scottish history. Such Scottish history as I was taught lurched erratically from Wallace and Bruce to the Treaty of Union, the Bonnie Prince and Culloden, and even then, was generally set against a context of English, not continental, events. The fact that Mary, Queen of Scots was also, briefly, Mary Queen of France does not take an averagely educated Frenchman by surprise, as it might an equivalent Scot.

I remember hearing very little about the long history of territorial predations between England and France, and less still about Scotland’s active support for France. It is a history

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The Auld Alliance |

history

that has left a pungent and persistent residue of mistrust between London and Paris.

For long enough the French, like everyone else (including the English), used the adjectives English and British interchangeably. That is much less frequently heard in France today. Awareness of, and interest in, the constituent nations of the UK has grown. Some of the credit no doubt lies with Alliance France-Écosse, set up in the mid-1990s to “preserve the spirit” of the Auld Alliance through exchanges and memorials. But more generally, the profile was raised by Scotland’s 2014 independence referendum. Often, when French people mention the Auld Alliance it comes with immediate follow-up questions about why Scotland voted against rejoining the company of nations, and whether the issue can be revisited. They know that the independence impulse remains strong, and the SNP (Scottish National Party) remain in government; they know that Scotland voted against Brexit, and that Scottish policy on Covid-19 has diverged from England’s.

In recent years a small but steady succession of developments have betokened a friendship warming once more. At a cultural level, these have ranged from the strengthening of links between national arts companies, like Scottish Ballet and the Paris Conservatoire; to the launch last year of Affinity, a blend of Scotch whisky and Normandy Calvados. There is, incidentally, a popular Scottish-themed bar in Paris’s 4th arrondissement called The Auld Alliance.

But there’s also weightier political stuff going on. In October 2013, the Scottish and French governments signed a statement of intent pledging educational collaboration and a policy dialogue, coupled with a joint action plan to take the principles forward in the name of the countries’ “shared history of co-operation over many years.” And in 2017 the French consulate, Scotland’s oldest, moved to occupy one of Edinburgh’s grandest Edwardian buildings, the old Midlothian County Chambers in Parliament Square, opposite St Giles Cathedral.

In this age of shifting alliances and head-banger isolationism, these sorts of quiet friendships between nations count. In the case of the Auld Alliance, a very old friendship seems to be gaining new momentum. In 2018, after the Brexit vote, Scottish foreign affairs minister Michael Russell assured a Paris audience: “We in Scotland hugely value our relationship with France and we want it to go from strength to strength.” But perhaps the last word should rest with General de Gaulle, delivered as he opened a Free French office in Edinburgh on 23 June 1942: “I do not think a Frenchman could have come to Scotland at any time without being sensible of a special emotion: awareness of the thousand links, still living and cherished, of the Franco-Scottish Alliance.” S Keith Aitken retired to France in 2018 after 40 years in front-line Scottish journalism, 35 of them as a columnist for outlets like The Scotsman, The Herald and the Scottish Daily Express.

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ancestry

| Irregular marriages

RUNAWAY BRIDES AND GROOMS The kirk didn’t take kindly to couples who eloped rather than follow its strict traditions, as these records show…

Words by ANTHONY ADOLPH

Despite such unions being legal, the kirk sessions often fined wrongdoers

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married irregularly at Edin. June 6th 1775.

Like father, like son...

In fact, the Hoggs seem to have cottoned on to the fact that the formality of proclamations and wedding ceremonies was not actually necessary under Scots law at all. Irregular marriages like the Hoggs’ were often of the sort termed clandestine or ‘inorderly’ marriages, performed by a nonEstablishment minister before witnesses, but without a church proclamation. The Hoggs had gone to Edinburgh because many such ministers were to be found there.

Yet even these formalities were unnecessary, for a marriage could be created by people simply living together, often after a betrothal party or ‘hand-fasting’. Such unions were recognised under the law as ‘marriages by declaration’ (de praesenti), in which no promise had ever been witnessed; ‘cohabitation with habit and repute’; ‘promise with subsequent intercourse’ (there would have been witnesses to the promise, though not, one hopes, to the subsequent intercourse) and ‘consent before witnesses’.

These latter types of marriage are legal phrases imposed on what normal Scottish people had been doing since time immemorial – courting, rolling in the heather and setting up home together. Needless to say, the Established Church took a very dim view of such activities, not least because they dispensed with the church’s involvement.

Until 1834, and despite such unions being legal, the kirk sessions often summoned wrongdoers, fined them and then acknowledged the marriage: the union may then appear in the OPRs, possibly identified as ‘irregular’, as in the examples here. Some irregular marriages were investigated in the law courts and may turn up in their records.

The number of people marrying ‘irregularly’ was as much as a third in the mid-1800s, falling to less than 10 per cent by 1914. Besides those who were simply in a hurry, or wanted to wed without family interference, irregular marriages were also favoured by members of dissenting congregations.

We were very lucky with the Hoggs: most irregular marriages did not appear in any records at all. S Have your family history traced properly, using original, archival records, by a professional genealogist of more than 30 years’ experience. Anthony Adolph, genealogist, writer and broadcaster, is the author of 10 books, including Collins’ Tracing Your Scottish Family History (2008). anthonyadolph.co.uk; mail@anthonyadolph.co.uk; Callow Farmhouse, Callow, Herefordshire, HR2 8DE; 07890 068218

© LIBRAKV/SHUTTERSTOCK

I

n a recent case, we found the following double-baptism record in the Old Parochial Registers (OPRs) of Gladsmuir, in the county of East Lothian, which was also known more picturesquely as the county of Haddingtonshire: • OPR for Gladsmuir, Ref 708/3 1801. Hogg William, Coalier in Penston and his wife Catherine Wilson had twins born the 22nd day of November 1801 and baptized by the Revd. Mr George Hamilton Minister of Gladsmuir and named William and Elspeth.

Witnesses William Wilson & Peter Jeffries.

It is a good, detailed entry that includes witnesses’ names, details often ignored by people who try to do genealogy by index references alone, that can indicate wider relationships within the family. The next step, of course, was to look for a marriage for the parents. We searched knowing that the majority of Scottish marriages, before the advent of General Registration in 1855, were never recorded, but it is always worth looking, and in this case, we found the following: • OPR for Gladsmuir, Ref 708/3 1797. Hogg William, Coalier in Penston & Catherine Wilson were irregularly married at Edin[burgh] January 6 1797 according to their marriage lines produced to the Session.

In other words, instead of asking the minister to make his proclamations of their intention to marry, and then waiting patiently for these to be read out three successive Sundays and then being married in the parish kirk, collier Billy and his lass Kathy had run off together to Edinburgh and been married there and had then come back home.

Perhaps the kirk sessions – the meeting of minister and elders, who together ran the church – had summoned them, fined them and then recorded the marriage, or, they had voluntarily presented the evidence of their marriage to the kirk sessions, and the event was duly recorded in the register.

How much tutting was involved, we do not know.

What amused me about this was the fact that, having found William’s baptism at Gladsmuir, a search for his own parents’ marriage revealed this: • OPR for Gladsmuir, Ref 708/2 1775. Hogg John and Mary Duncan both in this Parish were

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history

| The Highland Clearances

Words by ROBERT JAMES

SUTHERLAND’S SHAME

The Highland Clearances were a notorious and controversial period in British history. In the first of two articles, we look at how the clearances played out in the northwest Highlands

T ABOVE: Dunrobin Castle, the seat of the earls and dukes of Sutherland

72 Scotland

he roots of the Highland Clearances can be traced back to 1609 when King James VI decreed that sons of clan chiefs should be educated in lowland Scotland and taught the English language.

In time, this policy led to the gentrification of the clan chiefs, acclimatising them to aristocratic living, a lifestyle they loved but could ill afford. To pay for this new lifestyle, their ancestral lands were mortgaged, and, in many cases, the ownership of those lands transferred to creditors.

In truth, the land was never the chieftains’ to sell; the chief was a guardian of the clan’s territory, giving tacks of land to his people in return for their loyalty, tribute and military support. This centuries-old system of patronage had served the clans well but in the new world after the Battle of Culloden in 1746, Highland chiefs no longer had a need to raise armies, what they really needed was cash. So it was that ancestral lands were sold and along with it, the clan’s people who occupied them. The new owners seldom had familial links to the clan and thus the chiefs had now been replaced by landlords.

And so, to the county of Sutherland – the clan lands of Gunn, Mackay, MacLeod and Sutherland. By the late 18th century, every one of these clan chiefs was in debt, some of them seriously (Mackay of Strathnaver owed £58,000 or £57 million in current valuations).

© NORTH COAST EXPLORER TOUR/WWW.NORTHCOAST.SCOT/CLASSIC IMAGE/ALAMY/ CLAUDINE VAN MASSENHOVE/SHUTTERSTOCK

The Highland Clearances |

The chief of Clan Sutherland was Elizabeth, The Countess of Sutherland. She inherited the title and estate, the largest private estate in Europe, as an orphaned one-year-old child. By the time of her marriage in 1785 to Earl George Leveson-Gower, the one-million-acre estate was in debt, with large tacks of land mortgaged.

Had the Countess not married the Earl, her estate could well have gone the same way as so many others – sold off to creditors. However, in 1803 her husband inherited the title of Marquess of Stafford along with a vast fortune, making him the wealthiest man in Europe.

At this time, Scotland was undergoing a revolution in farming practices. Lower lying rural land was being drained, enclosed and improved whilst hitherto unproductive uplands were populated with new breeds of sheep that were able to withstand the harsh upland moors. Several Highland landlords began to embrace these new agrarian opportunities and soon showed that income per acre could increase by up to a factor of six over the incumbent subsistence farming methods.

Seeing the opportunity to leverage their great wealth, the Marquess and Countess embarked upon a 50-year investment plan to improve their Sutherland estate. The process was largely delegated to the Countess to oversee, it was after all, her ancestral land.

The Countess began by purchasing the land held by neighbouring indebted clan chiefs of the county of Sutherland and, by 1805, she owned most of the county. The Countess may have become the overlord of most of the county, but she had no direct relationship with its inhabitants – she too had morphed from clan chief into commercial landowner.

Land improvements were initiated, and expert agriculturalists were recruited to oversee the work. One such expert was Patrick Sellar from Moray who arrived at Dunrobin Castle, (the seat of Clan Sutherland) in 1809 with ambitious

history

CLOCKWISE, FROM TOP LEFT: Elizabeth LevesonGower, Countess of Sutherland; ‘The Emigrants’ statue in Helmsdale commemorates those who lost their homes in the Highland Clearances; King James VI of Scotland

The Countess may have been overlord of most of Sutherland, but she had no direct relationship with its inhabitants

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history

| The Highland Clearances

plans to turn the largely subsistence economy of the Sutherland estate into a supply house for industrial Britain.

The process was, in the mind of the Countess, simple. Give notice to tenants at the end of their lease, relocate them to unproductive lands upon the coasts and provide them with small croft lands to rent for their subsistence while simultaneously encouraging their participation in the cash economy – predominantly the sea fishing trade. To facilitate this, the estate would invest hundreds of thousands of pounds in building infrastructure to support the transition.

Meanwhile, the vacated lands would be converted into large farms and leased to the highest bidder – lowland coastal plots would become arable and pastoral farms, while the inland straths and hills would be ideal for the rearing of vast flocks of sheep.

The process of eviction and relocation began in 1809 and from the perspective of the Countess, all proceeded well. However, in 1813 the two thousand tenants of the southern straths of the parish of Kildonan rioted when they were confronted with eviction, necessitating the deployment of a regiment of foot soldiers from Fort George in Inverness to keep the peace. Undeterred, the Kildonan residents embarked upon a well organised campaign to publicise their predicament, which ultimately made the London newspapers. This campaign not only bought them time, it also aroused the support of an opponent to land clearances, who offered one hundred places for assisted emigration to Canada; one thousand residents applied. Eventually the Earl and Countess won though, and the remaining residents of Kildonan reluctantly moved to coastal lands on the Sutherland estate or migrated away from the county entirely to find work elsewhere.

Patrick Sellar was embarrassed by the episode, as it was his responsibility to oversee the orderly relocation of tenants. He had never understood the Gaelic culture nor respected the ancient ways of the clans, labelling the Gaels as “aborigines” and “beggars with no stock but cunning and laziness”.

The following year, Sellar proceeded to clear the northern reaches of Kildonan and lands of Strathnaver.

This time, he was to be the beneficiary of the evictions as he had signed a lease to farm these lands for sheep.

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ABOVE: Helmsdale village INSET: A plaque in Inverness marks where Patrick Sellar was imprisoned and put on trial

The Highland Clearances |

history

© GRAFXART/SHUTTERSTOCK/IMAGEBROKER/NICK SCOTT PLAQUES/SIGN PHOTOS/ALAMY/ ROBERT JAMES

DON’T MISS

CLOCKWISE, FROM LEFT: A dilapidated cottage in Alltnacaillich leftover from the Highland Clearances; a bird’s-eye-view of Learable, where you can see the traditional field drainage system and outlines of buildings (right); River Helmsdale

the second part

Not wishing to endure the frustrations and embarrassments of 1813, Sellar changed of our story tactics. No longer content with allowing people to leave their homes in their own good next issue time, he violently ejected them and immediately set light to the buildings to ensure the residents could not return. If people resisted, Sellar ordered the houses to be set alight with their inhabitants still inside. On one occasion, confronted by a house still occupied by an infirm woman in her nineties, he shouted in anger and frustration, “Damn her, the old witch, she has lived too long; let her burn,” whereupon the house was set alight. Though rescued, the old lady died days later.

Undeterred, Sellar continued to clear the land in this brutal fashion, turning ancient townships into burning ruins and reducing once proud clans folk to terrified hollow wrecks.

The Countess knew of his methodologies, commenting in 1814 that “Sellar is exceedingly greedy and harsh with the people [and] the more I see of him, the more I am convinced he is not to be trusted further than he is at present.” She did not, however, terminate his employment.

Sellar was ultimately arrested for his actions in Strathnaver. In 1816, he was tried and acquitted of culpable homicide in a trial lasting less than a day, whereafter he immediately recommenced his employment with the Countess. He was to go on to oversee yet more forced evictions on the Sutherland estate until he was finally dismissed in 1817. He remained a tenant of the estate until his death in 1851, inhabiting and farming the very lands he had so brutally cleared.

Between 1809 and 1820, 15,000 people were forcibly evicted from their ancestral lands on the Sutherland estate. S

No longer content with allowing people to leave in their own good time, Sellar violently ejected them and set light to their homes

Robert James runs North Coast Explorer with his wife Sally-Ann, offering private, bespoke tours of the northwest Highlands, including to some poignant places linked to the clearances. northcoast.scot

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events

| Calendar

DATES FOR YOUR DIARY Scots both sides of the Atlantic are hoping for the return of a much-missed Highland games season in 2021. If they can’t go ahead, many big festival and event organisers have digital back-up plans up their sleeves

SCOTLAND

17-20 June 2021 ROYAL HIGHLAND SHOW What? Though ticket numbers will be restricted due to socialdistancing measures, in its 180th year The Royal Highland and Agricultural Society of Scotland is determined to celebrate the best in food, farming and rural life. If changes to government restrictions allow, there will be the opportunity to ‘scale up’.

Where? Royal Highland Centre, Ingliston, Edinburgh. royalhighlandshow.org 2 July-12 September 2021 ARBROATH 2020+1 FESTIVAL What? Not to be defeated when celebratory events for the 700th anniversary of the Declaration of Arbroath were cancelled, this year the festival returns with an adapted programme. From a music performance in a fish market to an open-air promenade production on the beach, Arbroath’s community are coming together to put their town’s historic importance centre stage this summer.

Where? Check the website for dates of individual events, though many of the installations are in place all summer (and into 2022) if you are visiting Arbroath, in Angus, at another time. arbroathfestival.com 16-25 July 2021 EDINBURGH JAZZ & BLUES FESTIVAL What? The Edinburgh Jazz and Blues Festival is hosted at some of the very best venues throughout

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Arbroath 2020+1 Festival launch

Edinburgh from grand concert halls to hip jazz clubs. Tickets are currently on sale for two events (Jools Holland and Curtis Stigers) to be held at the Festival Theatre.

Where? Edinburgh; however the festival is currently planning for all eventualities and may incorporate both virtual and in-person events. edinburghjazzfestival.com 8 August 2021 BRIDGE OF ALLAN HIGHLAND GAMES What? The games field nestles between Stirling Castle, the beautiful Ochil Hills and the National Wallace Monument,

made famous by the blockbuster movie, Braveheart. This makes it one of Scotland’s most popular, usually attracting crowds of between 8,000 and 10,000 people each year. A decision on whether the games will go ahead will be made mid-April.

Where? Strathallan Games Park, Bridge of Allan, Stirling FK9 4QY bofagames.com 12 August 2021 BALLATER HIGHLAND GAMES What? Currently government guidelines prohibit large gatherings or events, but if restrictions ease as forecast, the

Ballater Highland Games – held here since 1864 - will go ahead this summer.

Where? Monaltrie Park, Ballater, Aberdeenshire, AB35 5QW ballaterhighlandgames.com 6-28 August 2021 THE ROYAL EDINBURGH MILITARY TATTOO What? This spectacular event will be back with a bang in 2021, celebrating music, dance and military pageantry. Tickets are available now, but as social distancing measures will be in place, there will be reduced capacity – be quick!

Calendar |

arizona-highland-celtic-festival

Where? Edinburgh Castle Esplanade, Castlehill, Edinburgh, EH1 2NG edintattoo.co.uk 6-30 August 2021 EDINBURGH FRINGE FESTIVAL What? The self-proclaimed ‘greatest celebration of culture and arts on the planet’, the Edinburgh Fringe consumes the city for three weeks in August every year, bringing together both local and international artists from all walks of life and at different stages in their careers.

Where? As with many of the biggest events this summer and beyond, the Edinburgh Fringe will likely take a sensible dual approach this year, with a virtual and in-person offering. Keep your eye on their website, or subscribe to their newsletter, to keep up to date. edfringe.com

VIRTUAL

© NEIL HANNA/VISIT SCOTLAND/KENNY LAM

28 May-5 June 2021 ISLAY FESTIVAL OF MUSIC & MALT What? Each year, during the last week of May, the island of Islay in the Inner Hebrides welcomes visitors from across the world to join them in celebrating their culture, music and worldrenowned single malt whiskies.

This year they’re taking the festival online.

Where? The festival Facebook page is the best place to visit for up-to-date information regarding the virtual festival @feisile.islay.

Tickets will be sold from the website. islayfestival.com 2-6 June 2021 CLAN MACEWEN VIRTUAL GATHERING What? After more than 500 years since their last Chief, the MacEwen Clan first held a modern clan gathering in 2019 at Castle MacEwen in Kilfinan, Argyll.

Still in the process of reintroducing themselves to the Scottish and Clan community, this year they are taking their gathering online.

Where? Check their website for upcoming information about their

events

USA

24 July 2021 DRESSED TO KILT What? The most prestigious and exciting Scottish fashion show is back in 2021. This year the event will be held in honour of Sir Sean Connery and family. As such, a new Sir Sean tartan, developed by three generations of the Connery family, will be unveiled for the first time ever during the show. As well as real-life attendees, the event will also be live-streamed and tickets for both the in-person and virtual options are available online now.

Where? Mill Neck Manor, 40 Frost Mill Rd, Mill Neck, NY 11765 dressedtokilt.com

The Royal Mile during the Edinburgh Fringe Festival

plans for an alternative ‘Hybrid Gathering’ in 2021. clanmacewen.com 5 & 6 June 2021 CRAIL FOOD FESTIVAL What? Now in its tenth year, this festival was set up to connect Crail’s passionate food producers with their customers near and far, creating an opportunity for conversation, consumption and celebration.

Where? Usually held at various venues throughout the historic fishing village of Crail in the pretty East Neuk of Fife, this year the festival will be virtual. You will be able to ‘wander’ between traders and producers and purchase their products from the comfort of your own sofa. Check their social media channels (@crailfoodfestival) and website for details. crailfoodfest.co.uk 23-26 June 2021 CLAN MACLEAN VIRTUAL GATHERING What? Breaking with the tradition that has seen this clan gather at Duart Castle on the Isle of Mull

every five years since 1986, in 2021 the Clan Maclean Association is holding a free, virtual gathering.

Due to the 2022 Duart Castle gathering being postponed until 2023, this will give members the chance to strengthen their bond in the longer interim between meetings.

Where? Please check their website for upcoming information on how to attend the gathering virtually this year. clanmaclean.org; macleangatherings.com July 2021 ARIZONA HIGHLAND CELTIC FESTIVAL What? Events already organised include a virtual tea with Diana Gabaldon, author of the Outlander series; Celtic cooking classes; Celtic language classes; music workshops; traditional dance demonstrations and much more.

Where? For 2021 the Northern Arizona Celtic Heritage Society have decided to have a virtual Arizona Highland Celtic Festival, which will run throughout July. celtsconnect.com/

6 & 7 August 2021 SAINT ANDREW’S SOCIETY OF DETROIT HIGHLAND GAMES What? A celebration of Scottish culture and heritage in its 172nd year, with pipes, drums, Highland dancing and heavy athletics taking centre stage. And don’t miss the ceilidh the night before the games begin.

Where? GreenMead Historical Park, Livonia, MI highlandgames.com 13 & 14 August 2021 SPARTA CELTIC FESTIVAL What? This free, family-friendly event gives expression to Celtic heritage, with three stages dedicated to music and dancing, as well as a Highland games and more.

Where? Rogers Park, Sparta, MI 49345 spartacelticfest.org 18 September 2021 MAINE CELTIC CELEBRATION What? With its own medieval artisan village, sheepherding demonstrations, Celtic breeds parade and dog show, ‘The Kilted Canter’ 5km running race, a Highland games, and a children’s area, this celebration promises to provide fun for all the family.

Where? Steamboat Landing and Belfast Common, Belfast, ME mainecelticcelebration.com

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sCOtLAnD | Scottish Societies

SCOTTISH SOCIETIES If you are interested in joining any of these Scottish Societies, please contact them at the address shown and they will be happy to provide you with membership information.

CL AN ANDERSON and the Chief, Hope-Vere Anderson, invites membership from Anderson descendants and those bearing the name Anderson.

Contact casltd73@gmail.com for more info, or Clan Anderson, 3734 Hunting Ridge Dr. SW, Lilburn, GA, 30047 or c/o Barbeth, New Abbey, Dumfries DG2 8DB Scotland.

W W W. C L A N A N D E R S O N S O C I E T Y. O R G

Armstrong Clan Society

Arms awarded by the Lord Lyon in 1985. We invite descendants of the Armstrongs, Crosiers, Fairburns, Groziers and Nixons thru their paternal or maternal lines to join this famous family. We are tax-exempt and publish the ARMSTRONG CHRONICLES quarterly for our worldwide membership.

www.armstrong.org Chris Armstrong, President Armstrong Clan Society P O Box 346 Flowery Branch, GA 30542

Membership is open to those descended from Baird, Barde, Bard, Beard, Beaird, Byrd, Bayard, Bardt, Barth and Biard or varied spellings of the name of Scottish origin.

In addition to the Society newsletter and the opportunity to associate with fellow clansmen, members may query the Society genealogist, whose database contains over 100,000 entries of Bairds and related names. For information write: Clan Baird Commander Richard Baird of Rickarton, Ury and Member of the Lochwood, President, Stonehaven, Scotland Scottish Clans and Dr. Debra Baird, Convenor Associations, Inc. www.clanbairdsociety.com

Clan Cumming Society USA The Scottish Home Celebrating 175 years of Home, Family and Love.

708-447-5092 | ChicagoScots.org

CLAN CAMPBELL SOCIETY (NORTH AMERICA) A society for Campbells, members of recognized septs, their descendants and their friends. Recognized septs include: Ballantine, Burnett, Burns, Caddell, Calder, Harris, Hastings, Loudon, MacArthur, MacConachie, MacDiamid, MacIver, McKellar, MacKelvie, MacKessock, MacNichol, MacTavish, MacThomas, Moore, Muir, Orr, Pinkerton, Thomas, Thompson.

Prospective members, please email membership@ccsna.org or visit www.ccsna.org

CLAN CARMICHAEL USA President Don Carmichael Membership Chair Adele C. Harrah 3732 W. Palo Alto Avenue Fresno, CA 93711 membership@clancarmichael.com www.clancarmichael.com

Clan Blair Society Membership cordially invited from Blair descendants, and other interested parties.

clanblair.org

Russell McCrary Email: clanmembership@clanblair.org

Established 2800 Des Plains Avenue 1997 N. Riverside, IL 60546

Contact Information: G. Allen Cummings, Secretary 330 S Middleton Drive Unit 203 Calabash, NC 28467

Website:

www.clancumming.us CLAN DAVIDSON SOCIETY

Invites membership from Davidsons of all spellings and of all septs and descendants from Scotland.

Write for application form: John Dawson PMB 132, 10 Benning St. Lebanon, NH 03784 john@jdawsonservices.com www.clandavidsonusa.com

A nationwide organization of over 2,000 families who trace their ancestry to any of the branches of Clann Domhnaill. We embrace all the MacDonalds and other surnames that are recognized as branches or adherents of the greatest of the Highland clans.

Marion Schmitz,

CDUSA Membership Secretary 1685 Casitas Ave. Pasadena, CA 91103 membership@clandonaldusa.org

clandonaldusa.org

Family of Bruce International, Inc., USA

Family of Bruce International, Inc., USA, the only such organization recognized by the hereditary chief of the Name of Bruce, The Rt. Hon. Earl of Elgin and Kincardine, is a non-profit organization established to create kinship amongst its family members and promote interest in the Family of Bruce and its history. Membership is open to persons who qualify by surname, by descent, or by recognized septs: Carlisle, Carruthers, Crosby, Randolph and Stenhouse. Associate membership is also available.

Membership inquiries should be directed to: Donald E. Bruce, FSA Scot President 1051 Eagle Ridge Trail Stillwater, MN 55082 bruce1051@comcast.net

Polly A. (Bruce) Tilford, Secretary 5561 Earl Young Road Bloomington, IN 47408

www.familyofbruceinternational.org

HOUSE OF BURNETT, INC.

Sanctioned by James C.A. Burnett of Leys,

Chief of the Name, and Head of the House of Burnett

Contact: Jackelyn A Daugherty, Secretary PO Box 666 Topock, AZ 86436 (928) 788-9434 jdaugherty@1791.com

78 Scotland

Clan Crawford Association Membership extended to all Crawford’s of various spellings worldwide. Join to preserve our legacy & receive assistance with events, heraldry, highland games, DNA genealogy, forums, surname history, quarterly newsletter and more.

Joanne Crawford, Board of Directors jcrawfordphd@sbcglobal.net

www.clancrawfordassoc.org

Clan Cunningham International Open to all Cunninghams and associated families from the District of Cunninghame. Write to:

Kathleen Lester 2201 CR 44800 Blossom, TX 75416

www.clancunninghamintl.org

Forbes Clan-Forbes.org @ClanForbesSociety president@clan-forbes.org Sign up for a free e-newsletter!

Scottish Societies | sCOtLAnD

Clan Dunbar

Clan MacDougall Society of North America, Inc.

Clan MacDougall Society Clan MacDougall Society of North America, Inc. of North America, Inc. Valerie McDougall VP Membership

DUNBARS OF THE WORLD, UNITE! Join your clan, wherever you are, and learn more of the illustrious history of the great family that once owned huge amounts of Scotland.

Meet the warriors, maidens, bish-ops and merchants whose talent, bravery, politics and poetry made the name reverberate throughout the Middle Ages.

Under the leadership of Sir James Dunbar, BT, Chief of the Name, and Chieftain David C. Dunbar, Clan Dunbar is now International. **Exciting DNA Project ** Clan Tour of Scotland with focus on Dunbar history planned for summer of 2019 ** Interactive Clan Website ** Genealogists CONTACT: Kathryn Dunbar, Secretary, PO Box 1493, Tomball, TX 77377-1493; Chieftain@ClanDunbar.org

www.ClanDunbar.com

CLAN ELLIOT SOCIETY, U.S.A. Welcomes membership of all who are connected with this great border family. William Elliott, Clan President.

Direct inquiries to: Membership-Treasurer Jim Dougherty 160 Webb Town Road Tunnel Hill, IL 62792 https://elliotclan-usa.com

April Rich Membership Chair 218 Oxbow Drive Willimantic, CT 06226 clanhaymembership@hotmail.com

www.ClanHay.com The American Branch of the First Family of Scotland welcomes inquiries from descendants of Hay / Hayes / Haynes, Constable, Delgatie, Erroll, Gifford, Leith, MacGarra, Peebles and Turriff

Clan Hope of Craighall Society For all of the name and lineage of Hope

INTERNATIONAL & AUSTRALIA President & Commissioner: Stephen J. Hope president@clanhope.org www.clanhopeaustralia.org UNITED STATES of AMERICA High Commissioner: Richard Rex Hope highcommissionerusa@clanhope.org Membership Chair: Cynthia Hope Henderson membership@clanhope.org www.clanhope.org CANADA Commissioner: Scott Hale commissioner@clanhope.ca www.clanhope.ca SCOTLAND Commissioner: Colin Douglas Hope commissionerscotland@clanhope.org www.clanhope.org

Valerie McDougall VP Membership

PO Box 338047 PO BoxMcDougall, 338047 Valerie VP Membership Greeley, CO. 80633 80633 MacDougall MacDowall MacDougall MacDowall POGreeley, BoxCO. 338047, Greeley, CO. 80633 Email:membership@macdougall.org Home Page:ww.macdougall.org Email:membership@macdougall.org Home Page:ww.macdougall.org • www.macdougall.org Email: membership@macdougall.org Facebook: www.facebook.com/clanmacdougall Facebook: www.facebook.com/clanmacdougall www.facebook.com/clanmacdougall Names with Clan MacDougall of Argyll Names Associated with Clan MacDougall of Argyll Names Associated withAssociated Clan MacDougall of Argyll and Clanof MacDowall of Galloway and Clan and MacDowall Galloway Clan of MacDowall Galloway

Macoual Coul MacCoul Coul MacoualMacCoul Coul MacCulloch Dulothe MacCowan MacConcher MacDugle Conacher MacConcher MacConacher Conacher MacConacher Conacher MacClintock MacDoual M’Gowall MacDowall Coyle MacCoyle Coyle MacDougall MacDill MacCoyle Coyle MacCowan MacLintock MacDill McDowell Dole MacDole McDoll Dole MacDole McDoll Dole MacHale Mcdougle MacLugash MacCullich Dowdle MacHowell MacDugal Macoual MacCullagh Dulothe MacDulothe Dowdle Dulothe Dowdle MacDulothe Doual MacKichan MacConcher McDougal McLintock MacDoual Doual MacDoual Doual MacDowal McDougal Dougal MacLinden Macdowell MacDill McCown MacDougall MacDougald Dougal MacDougallDougal MacDougald Dougle MacLucas McLullich McDoll Mactheul Dougle Mcdougle McDougald Dougle Mcdougle McDougald Dugal MacCoul McCulloch MacDulothe McCown MacDugal MacDugle Dugal MacDugal Dugal MacLintock MacDugle Dowall MacConacher McDougal MacNamell MacDowal Dowall MacDowal DowallMacowen MacDowall MacDowel MacCoyle MacDougald MacDowall MacClintock Lullich MacDole McHoul McDougald McDowell MacLuke Macdowell MacDowell MacdowellMacDowell McDowell Lullich McLullich MacCullich Lullich McLullich MacCullich Spelling Variations May Vary or Omit the Mac, Mc McCulloch MacCullagh MacCulloch McCulloch MacCullochMacCullagh MacLintock McLintock MacClintock MacLintockMacClintockMcLintock McCown MacCowan Macowen MacCowanMcCownMacowen Mactheul MacHale McHoul MacHale MactheulMcHoul McCown MacHowell MacCowanMacHowellMcCownMacCowan M’Gowall MacNamell MacKichan M’Gowall MacKichan MacNamell MacLintock MacClintock MacLinden MacLintockMacLinden MacClintock MacLuke MacLucas MacLugashMacLucas MacLukeMacLugash Spelling Spelling Variations May Vary or Omit the Variations Mac, Mc May Vary or Omit the Mac, Mc

https://www.facebook.com/groups/ClanHopeofCraighall

Clan Irwin Association Chief and Patron

SALTOUN SALTOUN SALTOUN

LOVAT LOVAT LOVAT

Operating under the authority of The RT. Hon. Lady Saltoun, Chief of the name of Fraser The RT Hon. Lord Lovat, Of the Clan Fraser of Lovat Registered members are invited to share in the bond of this heritage and receive the Nessie newsletter.

For membership and information please visit www.CFSNA.com Organized July 1975 The first worldwide Clan Graham Organization

CLAN GRAHAM SOCIETY Ne Oublie • “Do Not Forget” to join us!

www.clangrahamsociety.org www.facebook.com/ClanGrahamSociety

Clan Hamilton Society

Hamiltons and those of Hamilton descent are cordially invited to join the Society.

Visit our website: http://www.clanhamilton.org

Inquiries should be sent to: Sherri Lambert, Treasurer PO Box 5399 Vernon Hills, IL 60061

The Clan Hannay Society

For those with family names of Hannay, Hannah, Hanna and Hanney.

Membership Sec: Mrs. Jacquie Hannay 5 Picket Cross, Bankend Road, Dumfries DG1 4AH SCOTLAND www.clanhannay.org

Alexander H. Irvine, 27th Baron & Laird of Drum, Chief of the name Contact: Barbara Edelman 65 Colonial Drive Telford, PA 18969 215-721-3955 barb3.edelman@gmail.com www.clanirwin.org www.facebook.com/groups/clanirwin * Twitt@Clan_Irwin IRWIN * IRVINE * IRVIN * IRVING * ERWIN And the many other spellings of the name

Membership invited from all U.S. residents of or connected to the name in any of its recognized forms.

INQUIRIES TO: Roger H. Johnston 107 Stellamar Drive Hutto, TX. 78634 texscott2020@gmail.com Visit the Clan Website: http://www.clanmacgillivray.net

Clan Leslie Society International The Honorable Alexander Leslie Chief of Clan Leslie Loren Leslie, Chieftain Septs: Abernethy, Bartholomew, Carnie, Lang & More (Moore) Send inquiries to: Linda Flowers, CLSI Treasurer, 302 SW 3rd, Tuttle, OK 73089 Email: lflowjingo@sbcglobal.net www.clanlesliesociety.org

Clan logan SoCiety

One Name – One Family – One Heritage www.ClanLoganSociety.com

Membership is open to all persons descended from or connected by marriage or adoption to the LOGANS of the UK (Scotland) & Ireland, and their friends.

Membership Info Contact: ClanLoganMembership@yahoo.com Or write: Clan Logan Society P.O. Box 241, Oak Island, NC 28465

Clan MacAlister Society An Educational 501(c)(3) Non Profit Corp.

Representing MacAlister Clansmen Worldwide MacAlester, Alexander, Alison, Alister, Loup, Lister, Sanders, Sandy, Saunders Stewart McA. Flora, Chairman clanmacalisterpres@gmail.com www.ClanMacAlisterSociety.org

Give your society the exposure it deserves, our 100,000 Scottish interest readers are keen to connect with their clans and associations.

To book your society in Scotland email: Natasha.Syed@chelseamagazines.com

MACGREGOR AMERICAN CLAN GREGOR SOCIETY Founded in 1909 and the only officially recognized Clan Gregor organization in the USA. If you believe you are a Gregor, MacGregor, McGregor or one of the Septs, contact our registrar.

Gregor Gregory Gregg

Grier King Lecky

MacAdams Magruder McGehee

McNish Peter many others

Registrar: Jeanne P., Lehr, 11 Ballas Crt, St. Louis, MO 63131 www.acgsus.org

Clan MacInnes

Int’l Assn. of Clan MacInnes (Aonghais)

Worldwide, we welcome descendants of all spelling variations, including (Mc)Angus, (Mc)Canse, (Mc)Ginnis, (Mc)Guenis, (Mc)Inch, (Mc)Innes, (Mc)Innis, (Mc)Kinnis, (Mc)Masters, (Mc)Neish, (Mc)Ninch, and more.

Scott Mcinnis, Member Services: scott@macinnes.org or visit: www.macinnes.org

Clan Macneil

ASSOCIATION OF AMERICA

Invites all Macneils . . . regardless of surname spelling, some of which are listed below: MCNEILL MACNEIL MACNEAL MACNIEL MCNEELY NEAL NEILSON O’NEILL to join us in preserving our heritage. Contact: Sally Mitchell, VP Membership, 5577 Prince Phillip Way, Stone Mountain, GA 30087, 770-713-3544; Email: membrshipcma@gmail.com or visit www.clanmacneilusa.us

Scotland 79

sCOtLAnD | Scottish Societies CLAN MacLELLAN

Clan MacKinnon Society Since 1891

Family | History | Philanthropy | Fun Septs: Love, MacKinney, MacKinning, MacKinven, MacMorran, Morren, Sherry

www.TheMacKinnon.com ClanMacKinnonSociety@gmail.com / @The_MacKinnon @TheMacKinnon

Clan Maclachlan Association of North America, Inc. All spellings of MacLachlan, Gilchrist and MacEwen.

Founded in 1965.

CMANA, Inc.

Lt. Governor John Cherry, Treasurer JCherry@aol.com www.cmana.net

www.facebook.com/ClanMacLachlanSociety

Clan MacLaren Society of North America

MACLAREN MACLAURIN LAWRENCE LAWSON LOW[E] LOW[E]RY LAW[E] PATTERSON MACPATRICK MACRORY

Recognized by the Chief of Clan MacLaren

Mark McLaren, FSA Scot President 611 Indian Home Rd. Danville, CA 94526 President@clanmaclarenna.org

Clan Macnachtan Association Worldwide

Descendants andSepts of the CLAN MACNAUGHTON are invited to join our Worldwide Association to learn and share our MacNaughton and Scottish heritage. For more info go to: clanmacnaughton.net or contact Mary Nivison Burton, Membership Secretary at: membersec@clanmacnaughton.net New Second Edition!

A History of the Clan Macnachtan Paperback available through Amazon.com, Amazon.co.uk, Amazon.ca

CLAN MACLEOD Nine Global Societies

Cordially invites membership inquiries from MacLeods, any spelling, sept families, their descendants and other interested persons.

Askey Auley Beaton Bethune Beton Callam Callum Caskey Caskie Grimmond Harold

Harrold Lewis MacAllum Macandie Maccaskie Macaskill MacAulay McCabe MacCaig MacCallum MacCaskie

MacCaskill MacClure MacCorkilll MacCorkindale MacCorkle MacCorquodale MacCrimmon MacCraig MacGillechallum MacHarold MacKaskill

MacLewis MacLure MacRaild MacWilliam Malcolmson Norie Norrie Norman Normand Tolmie Williamson

Newsletters, Genealogy, Annual Meetings Membership info: annelmacleod@comcast.net HOLD FAST! www.clanmacleodusa.org

80 Scotland

Clan Matheson soCiety 2021 International Clan Gathering & Parliament July 8-11, 2021

John B. McClellan, Jr. Treasurer Clan MacLellan 383 Ash Brook Lane Sunnyvale, TX 75182-3250 treasurer@clanmaclellan.net

Welcomes MacLellans and their descendants regardless of surname spelling to join in preserving our heritage.

Family names include: MacClellan(d), McClellan(d), McLellan(d)

Sir Alexander Matheson of Matheson, Bt., Chief of Clan Matheson, Invites all Mathesons/Mathiesons/Mathisons and other variations of the name and supporters of Clan Matheson to gather as the Honored Clan at the 65th Annual Grandfather Mountain Highland Games & Gathering O’ Scottish Clans

Scholarships available for Scottish studies.

Visit our website: www.clanmaclellan.net

Visit www.clanmathesonusa.org for more information Colvin Matheson, Chief’s Lieutenant, USA colvinmatheson@verizon.net

Clan MacNicol of North America

Clan Maxwell

Chief John MacNeacail of MacNeacail and Scorrybreac Clan MacNicol, a small but vibrant Clan active in Australia, Canada, New Zealand, Scotland and the U.S.A. From the misty Isle of Skye, the Hebrides and the Northwest Highlands, the sons and daughters of MacNicol, Nicol, Nicolson (and of other spelling variations) have spread to six continents. Nearly two centuries ago, the Chiefly line emigrated to Australia where it thrives to this day.

Membership open to all who acknowledge the Clan Chief as its leader and wish to join the Society.

New members receive a copy of the book on Clan history and two Clan newsletters during the year.

Adair Maxton Blackstock Mescall Dinwiddie Monreith Dinwoodie Moss Edgar Nithsdale Herries Paulk Kirk Peacock Kirkland Polk Latimer Pollo(c)k Latimore Sturgeon MacKittrick Wardlaw PO Box 3225, Staunton, VA 24401

President and Deputy Membership Secretary Jeremy Nicholson Website www.clanmacnicol.org E-mail presidentna@clanmacnicol.org Postal Address P.O. Box 501166 Atlanta, GA 31150-1166, USA

Canadian Membership Secretary Jacques McNicoll Website www.clanmacnicol.org E-mail mcnicollclan@videotron.qc.ca Postal Address 202 rue Berlioz Apt. 203, Verdun, Québec H3E 1B8, Canada

SOCIETY

www.clanmaxwellsociety.com CLAN MOFFAT SOCIETY

ClanMacRae MacRaeSociety Society Clan ofofNorth NorthAmerica America Granted GrantedArms Armsinin2008 2008 We invite MacRaes of all We invite MacRaes of all spelling variations and their spelling variations descendants to joinand ourtheir Clan descendants to join ouryour Clan MacRae Society.

Learn MacRaeMacRae Society. history Learn your Scottish and family lineage!

Scottish MacRae history and

family lineage! www.macrae.org Need more info? Contact: www.macrae.org Bruce McRae, President

303-670-9611 Need more info? Contact: brucewaynemcrae@gmail.com

Invites membership from Moffats of all spellings. Spouses and those legally adopted

by Moffats are also eligible for membership.

Moffat Moffit Maffet Muffat Muffit Morphet

Moffatt Moffitt Maffett Muffatt Muffitt Morphett

Moffet Maffat Maffit Muffet Morphat Morphit

Moffett Maffatt Maffitt Muffett Morphatt Morphitt

Other spelling variations may be recognized!

www.clanmoffat.org

1

Bruce McRae, President 303-670-9611 brucewaynemcrae@gmail.com CLAN MACTAVISH Inc.

The only organization authorized and under the patronage of the 27th Hereditary Chief of Clan MacTavish, Steven MacTavish of Dunardry.

Anyone bearing the name MacTavish or any of the recognized connected names and their descendants and all variant spellings are invited to join us to celebrate our history. Members receive a newsletter, the “Non Oblitus” and support in doing family genealogy.

Cash - MacTavish - Stephenson - Stevens Stevenson - Thompson - Thomson For membership information please visit us at www.clanmactavish.org www.facebook.com/ClanMacTavish or contact: Clan MacTavish Treasurer

Clan MacTavish

membershipsecretary.mactavish@gmail.com

23 Garland Rd. Lancaster, NH 03584

Muirhead Clan Society

CLAN MAITLAND SOCIETY

CHIEF: IAN MAITLAND The Earl of Lauderdale WE ARE ALL RELATED! Contact your local society NORTH AMERICA Rosemary Maitland Thom Rthomnvprdcan@aol.com www.clanmaitlandna.org AUSTRALIA Amanda Maitland 6/1 Hinemoa Avenue, Normanhurst NSW 2076 clanmaitland@yahoo.com.au NEW ZEALAND Judette Maitland 33 Disley Street, Highbury, Wellington 6012 NZ judette@xtra.co.nz We welcome all with Maitland, Lauderdale, Maitlen and similar name spelling. See the entire list and your family history at: www.clanmaitland.org.uk

www.clanmuirhead.com

Crest Badge Of Clan Member

Chev. Raymond L. Morehead, GOTJ, FSA Scot.

President/Chief Elect 6522 194th Avenue E. Bonney Lake, WA 98391 1-253-219-8736 E-mail: raymond@clanmuirhead.com

Nesbitt Nisbet Society of North America Clan Nisbet, a Borders family, welcomes Nesbit/Nisbet and all various spellings worldwide.

Share our history and learn about Alexander Nisbet, Scotland’s famous author of heraldry.

For more information, visit www.ibydeit.org or contact Dave Nesbitt Harvey, President, at dharvey@ibydeit.org.

Scottish Societies | sCOtLAnD

The Clan MacThomas

NC Scottish Heritage Society

CLAN POLLOCK

506 Shinnecock Court New Bern, NC 28562

Among the Most Ancient Families of Scotland. If you are a descendant of Pollock, Pollok, Pook, Polk, Polke, Paulk, Poalk, Poalke, Poulk, Poolke, Pogue, you are cordially invited to contact:

Combie McColm McComas McComb(e) McCombie McComie McComish

Join us to learn more about your highland heritage and an opportunity to publish your own research

Archie D. Pollock, Jr. P. O. Box 404, Greenville, Ky 42345 (615) 456-1699 apollockis@comcast.net

www.theargyllcolonyplus.org Like Us On Facebook

SCOTTISH HERITAGE USA, INC.

Clan Ross America Representing the great Highland Clan of Ross

P.O. Box 457, Pinehurst, NC 28374

St. Andrew’s Society of Detroit 2363 Rochester Road Troy, MI 48083 www.detroitscots.com

Paul D Ross, President Virg Bumann, VP Membership 1015 Archer St. San Diego, CA 92109 membership@clanross.org info@clanross.org www.clanross.org

est. 1849, Michigan’s Oldest Charitable Organization and The Oldest Continuous Highland Games in North America Come Join the Fun!

CLAN SHAW SOCIETY

St. Andrew’s Society of Pittsburgh

Invites membership or inquiries from all: Shaw, Ayson, Adamson, Esson, MacAy, MacHay, Shiach, Sheach, Sheath, Seith, Seth, Skaith, Scaith and Shay.

Mike Shaw, Secretary 2403 West Crawford Denison, TX 75020

Welcomes Scots and all interested in Scottish heritage and traditions

RBANA RBANA

Robert Burns Association of North America Robert Burns Association of North America

Clan Uisdean, USA

Defenders of Freedom, Mindful of Knowledge & Labor

www.standrewspittsburgh.org or call Paul Thompson 724-468-5800

Welcomes membership of all who are interested in the Life Welcomes membership of all who are interested in the Life and Works of the Scottish Bard Robert Burns, as well as and Works of the Scottish Bard Robert Burns, as well as Scottish literature and culture. RBANA is an association Scottish literature and culture. RBANA is an association dedicated to the preservation and appreciation of the life, dedicated to the preservation and appreciation of the life, works and philosophy of Scotland’s National Bard – Robert works and philosophy of Scotland’s National Bard – Robert Burns, as well as to the promotion of Scottish culture and Burns, as well as to the promotion of Scottish culture and heritage in North America. heritage in North America.

Contact Details: Contact Details:

Founded

Secretary: secretary@rbana.com Secretary: secretary@rbana.com President: president@rbana.com President: president@rbana.com Website: www.rbana.org Website: www.rbana.org

Dedicated to the preservation of the legacy of the families McCuistion, McCuiston, McQuiston, McQuistion, McQuesten, McChristian, McQuestion, McQueston and all variations thereof in the United States, who are descendants of Uisdean, son of Alexander McDonald, Lord of the Isles, Earl of Ross and Justiciar of the Highlands. Uisdean is also a descendant of Robert the Bruce, hero-king of Scotland.

Contact: BJ McCuiston, Secretary, PO Box 2193 Gilroy, CA 95021-2193 or billiejo@garlic.com

1756

Saint Andrew’s Society of the State of New York

Clan Wallace Society

150 East 55th Street - 3rd Floor New York, NY 10022 David M. Murphy, 103rd President Tel. 212/223–4248; Fax 212/223–0748 www.standrewsny.org

Scotland Scotland Magazine Magazine 2.5”x2” 2.5”x2”

Celebrating over 50 years.

For more information contact our membership chairman at membership @clanwallace.org.

KENNEDY SOCIETY OF NORTH AMERICA

Membership Chairman: Charles Wallace 4634 N. Beechwood Drive Macon, GA 31210-2304

cordially invites membership inquiries from all descendants of Kennedy and the Clan Septs: Cannaday Kanaday Cassels Cassillis Carrick MacUlrick MacWalrick Ulric (some spellings may vary)

Colleen Caldwell, Membership Chairman Kennedy Society of North America 2115 Pierpont S. Estates Morgantown, West Virginia 26508 c_caldwell83@yahoo.com www.kennedysociety.net

St Andrews Society of the City of Milwaukee

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www.standrewssocietymilwaukee.org Contact: Tom Westgaard, FSA Scot Phone 414-421-1598 P.O. Box 210288 Milwaukee, WI 53221-8005

REL I

For membership information, contact Linda Young-Sheiko Membership Secretary (616) 581-2229

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clanyoungmembership@yahoo.com www.clanyoungsociety.com

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A charitable & social “We organization formed to promote fellowship among those surnamed Young, descendants ED E TH ISTRE of any Scotsman and anyone EV interested in all things Scottish.

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website: http://clanwallace.org

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For a list of spelling variations and septs Website: www.clansinclairusa.org

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Membership Contact Keith A. Sinclair ClanSincMembership@gmail.com

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Come join (and enjoy) your Sinclair family President Tom H. Robinson TomHRobinson@aol.com

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Clan Sinclair Association, Inc. (U.S.A.) Do you know who came to North America almost 100 years before Columbus’ famous voyage?

Prince Henry Sinclair in 1398

www.clanmacthomas.org

MacOmie MacOmish Tam Thom Thomas Thoms Thomson

Andrew MacThomas of Finegand, 19th Chief, welcomes members.

Please direct inquiries to: Cathy McComb Ludemann North American Branch membership-na@clanmacthomas.com

Supporting the work of the National Trust for Scotland and providing grants to non-profits promoting and preserving Scottish Tradition, history, crafts and culture. shusa457@gmail.com www.scottishheritageusa.org

since 1976

SEPT NAMES

H E FI R S

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Give your society the exposure it deserves, our 100,000 Scottish interest readers are keen to connect with their clans and associations.

To book your society in Scotland email: Natasha.Syed@chelseamagazines.com Scotland 81

Books |

ReADInG CORneR

THE LIBRARY

A haunted house, Hebridean poetry and a woman’s daring escape across the Atlantic

HERITAGE

POETRY

FICTION

HISTORY

BIOGRAPHY

Sword of Scotland: ‘Our fighting Jocks’

Iona: New and Selected Poems

Luckenbooth

The Tycoon & The Bard

BY JENNI FAGAN

BY JOHN CAIRNEY

Marjorie’s Journey: On A Mission Of Her Own

BY ANTHONY LEASK

BY KENNETH STEVEN

No 10 Luckenbooth Close is an archetypal Edinburgh tenement and this novel spans nine centuries of the building’s demise, as it warps from grand residence to squalid squat under a wrathful curse.

The characters that live through these dire times include a spy, a famous Beat poet, a coal miner who fears daylight, and a psychic. But for all its supernatural themes, the novel also bears witness to the real city’s history.

Author and fellow Scot Ian Rankin says it is “one of [his] books of 2021, a gloriously transgressive novel of Edinburgh denizens past and present.” (£16.99, William Heinemann) penguin.co.uk

Renowned actor, writer, painter and raconteur, John Cairney’s masterful story-telling forms the backbone of this new breed of biography. John Cairney tells the intriguing tale of how the richest man in the world at the time, Andrew Carnegie, was inspired by Scotland’s national bard, Robert Burns. Though Carnegie’s life is Cairney’s central concern, the influence of Burns’ romantic lyrics and ideas is undeniable and woven throughout. This connection draws out unexpected truths about both men, particularly regarding how Burns inspired Carnegie’s beliefs in fortune, fate and fairness. (£9.99, Luath Press) luath.co.uk

Written by senior and respected Scottish military figure, Major General Anthony Leask CB CBE, this is the story of Scotland’s military heritage. Over 300 years, the contribution and sacrifices of Scotland’s fighting men have been out of all proportion to the size of the country and this book gives numerous examples of how the indomitable spirit of the Scots has shaped international history.

According to Leask, the reasons for this are rooted at home; the clan structure is the foundation of Scotland’s military prowess and its greatest strength. (£14.99, Pen & Sword) pen-and-sword.co.uk

Born in landlocked Highland Perthshire, even as a child Steven craved the sea. His family took many trips to Scotland’s westerly isles during the summer holidays, which were “utterly safe havens for children” and “traditional island worlds,” according to Steven. Yet Iona is what he describes as “the jewel in the crown” of the Hebridean islands. Though the powerful allure of Iona remains a mystery to Steven, who has also written our feature on the Outer Hebrides in this issue (page 14), these poems are an attempt to translate it into words. (£9.99, Paraclete Press) paracletepress.com

BY AILIE CLEGHORN

Scotland Street Press, an independent publisher based in Edinburgh, is promoting work on the theme of ‘International Women’ in 2021.

Marjorie’s Journey is written by Canadian professor emerita at Concordia University, Ailie Cleghorn, whose mother was born in Scotland.

It charts the extraordinary real-life journey of Marjorie, the author’s relative, who saved the lives of 10 children by sailing with them across the Atlantic from Scotland to South Africa during the Second World War. There she set up a home for them all. (£9.99, Scotland Street Press) scotlandstreetpress.com

Scotland 82

D E S I G N E D & M A D E I N O R K N E Y, S C O T L A N D

Seasons S P R I N G E NA M E L

Rich colours and happy memories...

Inspired by a relaxing walk through falling leaves in Inverewe Gardens.

Also available in Summer, Autumn and Winter colours in silver & enamel, and with 9ct yellow and rose gold leaves.

New shop opening soon! – St Andrews ORKNEY | EDINBURGH | GLASGOW

01856 861 203 | sheilafleet.com

BRINGING

ISLANDS TO YOU Let’s remember what we love about the wonderful West Coast

calmac.co.uk