The English Home Christmas supplement 2016

Christmas

CELEBRATE AN ENGLISH

ENGLISH December 2016 issue HOME The

A special supplement to

Indoor/outdoor star silhouette light, £40, Cox & cox 2 THE ENGLISH HOME

DECEMBER 2016

CHRISTMAS WISHES

CONTENTS 4 FESTIVE TRADITIONS An intriguing insight into

regional and national festive rituals across Britain.

There is nowhere I would rather be than at home at Christmas, celebrating with my family and friends. I love the build-up to the festive season and our traditions are so deeply ingrained in me now that I cannot imagine celebrating Christmas anywhere else.

With this special extra magazine, we focus upon the pastimes and decorating styles of a typical British Christmas. We have tried to evocatively bring to life the overall feel of festivities through our feature on rituals across the nation, and through the generously shared insights from specialists in their fields on the sights, sounds, smells and tastes that make Christmas memorable. We hope you enjoy reading our offerings as much as we have enjoyed preparing them for you.

10 THE SENSES OF CHRISTMAS From the smell

With warmest regards for a wonderful festive celebration,

31 ADDRESS BOOK A useful listing of key contacts for

of mulled wine warming on the hob to the heartwarming sound of Christmas carols, we consider the sensual pleasures that set the perfect scene.

16 DECK THE HALLS Red, green and gold are classic

Christmas colours, but hues from bygone times can add an atmospheric twist.

24 A TASTE OF HISTORY A chance discovery of a recipe

book allows us to bring you Mrs Thomas Hardy’s own family recipes for Christmas.

26 CHRISTMAS ESCAPES A selection of beautiful

English holiday cottages and hotels to consider for next year’s festive retreat. resources mentioned within this special magazine.

Editor Kerryn Harper-Cuss Deputy Editor Jill Shearer Associate Editor Sarah Feeley Art Editors Frances Wallace, Claire Hicks Sub Editor Lea Tacey Shopping and Lifestyle Editor Suzanna Le Grove Decorating Editor Katy Mclean

Kerryn Harper-Cuss, Editor

Festive TRADITIONS

TOP Glass baubles are a Victorian invention.

ABOVE Mistletoe is believed to possess

mystical powers, which bring good luck and ward off evil spirits. BELOW The Queen traditionally spends Christmas in splendour at Sandringham House in Norfolk attending a post-Christmas church service in the local village to the delight of locals and well-wishers.

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day in mid-December, local schoolchildren gather in the churchyard of St John the Baptist with the vicar and the mayor in attendance to perform the ceremony of cutting a flowering sprig from a thorn bush. This sprig is then dispatched to The Queen’s home at Sandringham in Norfolk to decorate the royal table on Christmas Day. “The whole community comes together to enjoy this wonderful but bizarre occasion of cutting the sprig. It’s quite unique,” says St John’s jovial Reverend David MacGeoch.

The sending of a Glastonbury sprig to royalty is first recorded in the seventeenth century, and whilst Her Majesty doubtless receives more impressive festive gifts, few can have such historic resonance. It is claimed that in AD63 Jesus’ great-uncle, Joseph of Arimathea, upon arriving in Glastonbury to found Britain’s first Christian church, struck his staff into the ground at Wearyall Hill and it miraculously

took root. Flowering twice a year, at Easter and Christmas – again, considered a miracle – the Holy Thorn became a symbol of new life even in the darkness of winter. The bush (Crataegus oxyacantha praecox) in St John’s churchyard is said to be a descendant of that original thorn.

NATURAL DECORATIONS Whilst non-royal families around the country may not have holy sprigs to decorate their homes, they make up for it with all the trappings of Christmas, including trees, baubles and crackers.

The Puritans did their utmost to quash Christmas revels in the mid-seventeenth century, but fun and faith will out, and the Victorians – not always the staid citizens of caricature – reinvented Yuletide with the potent mix of religious and secular celebration we know today.

We have looked back ever since to a semi-mythical Merrie Olde England, blithely blending Christian belief with echoes of pagan midwinter solstice.

Every corner of the country has its own eccentric twists, such as Tenbury Wells in Worcestershire – self-proclaimed ‘Mistletoe Capital of England’. This is the place to go for mistletoe auctions – held here for some 160 years, and which take place at Burford House Garden Store on the edge of town on the last Tuesday in November and the first two Tuesdays in December. The bundles of mistletoe with their pearly berries are much in demand, whether to hang over doors to ward off witches, according to ancient lore, or to steal a kiss beneath. The latter is a British custom, dating from at least the early seventeenth century, that belies the English stiff upper lip and may derive from the evergreen’s associations with fertility. 

FEATURE SIÂN ELLIS PHOTOGRAPHS (BAUBLES) DIGIEYE/SHUTTERSTOCK; (MISTLETOE) ANDREW FOX/ALAMY; (SANDRINGHAM) CAPTURE LIGHT/SHUTTERSTOCK

E

ach year in the Somerset market town of Glastonbury, on a

The tradition of bringing greenery into the home at Christmas is deeply rooted in many ancient cultures in the northern hemisphere, symbolising the resilience of life at the darkest point of the year. Holly, with its red berries, was particularly prized and red and green remain the two most popular colours for seasonal decoration.

Joan armchair in Send Rioja flocked cotton, from £499; Cyrus rug, £255; Rochelle small side table in Clay, £110, all Perch & Parrow

THE ENGLISH HOME 5

RIGHT With a plethora of different varieties,

shapes and sizes on offer, selecting the correct tree can feel like an onerous responsibility, but it might help to remember that evergreen trees have been used for thousands of years to celebrate the winter festival.

Model wears: Ardingly Rose ivory shawl, £38; pink faux-fur coat, £160; navy pom-pom gloves, £25, all Cath Kidston BELOW The familiar Christmas pudding hails from Victorian times, however it originally grew out of a medieval porridge that contained meat, dried fruit, wine and spices.

CORNISH CUSTOM Visit a home in Cornwall and you may well find a Christmas Bunch hanging from the ceiling – two hoops of greenery, looped together and decorated with ribbon, fruit and possibly a candle, plus mistletoe to set lips aquiver. ‘Nadelik’ – Cornish for Christmas – is full of such quirks.

“The use of Cornish recipes at Christmas has increased hugely in the last ten years, especially Mahogany,” says Simon Reed, director of the Cornish Culture Association. Mahogany is made from warmed treacle and gin, and can be dangerously moreish. Cornish Shenagrum will bring colour to the cheeks, too. This drink consists of warmed dark beer sweetened by two spoons of demerara sugar, fortified with rum and topped with a twist of lemon and some cinnamon.

For the peckish, there is Stargazy Pie, which was created in the fishing village of Mousehole in honour of a brave fisherman called Tom Bawcock. Legend has it that he sailed out into a violent stormy sea to fish when the village was facing starvation. He returned with seven

types of fish which were made into a pie and shared amongst the townsfolk, thus saving them from famine. To this day, his heroic deeds are celebrated every 23 December in the village. Made with potato, egg and pilchards, their heads poking through the crust, the pie has the potential to alarm unwary diners.

Montol – Cornish for Midwinter Solstice – is a festival that takes place in the streets of Penzance, culminating on Montol Eve, 21 December, with night-time processions

and ‘guise dancing’ that harks back to the medieval custom of people visiting homes on special occasions to perform in disguise.

Hundreds of people dress up in costumes following prescribed rules, and a ‘Mock’ or Cornish yule log, with a stickman chalked on it, is burned to symbolise the death of the old year and the birth of the new.

DEVONSHIRE DRESSING Meanwhile, in the neighbouring county of Devon, it is claimed that St Boniface – who originated from there – invented the Christmas tree during a Christian mission to Germany in the eighth century. Whilst on this mission, he hacked down a pagan oak, from whence a fir tree sprang up in its place, its evergreen leaves symbolising the everlasting love of God. Much later, of course, Queen Victoria’s consort, Prince Albert, imported the concept of a decorated tree to Britain.

NORTHERN FESTIVITIES As church bells ring out across the land on Christmas Eve, the doughty citizens of Dewsbury in West Yorkshire brace themselves... Local knight Sir Thomas de Soothill paid for a new tenor bell for the

6 THE ENGLISH HOME

PHOTOGRAPHS (CHRISTMAS PUDDING): MONKEY BUSINESS IMAGES/SHUTTERSTOCK; (CAKE) BETTYS; (CANDLES) LARRY LILAC/ALAMY; (MONTOL) SIMON MAYCOCK/ALAMY; (PIE) SIMON REDDY/ALAMY; (QUEEN) © GETTY/WPA POOL; (CHURCH) PAULA THOMPSON/ALAMY

Druids venerated mistletoe as a sacred plant and modern Druids descend during Tenbury Mistletoe Festival (3 December, this year) to honour its mystical properties.

TOP The festival of Montol, which takes place in Penzance, harks back to the pagan past.

ABOVE Stargazy pie is so named for the fish heads poking out of the crust arranged so that they appear to be gazing towards the sky.

TOP LEFT The tradition of a rich fruit cake covered in marzipan and icing stems from a popular revolt against Oliver Cromwell’s banning of the marzipan covered Twelfth Night cake.

TOP, MIDDLE Candles have always been a focus for Christmas decorations and were traditionally used to symbolise Christ as the ‘light of the world’. ABOVE In accordance with tradition, Dewsbury Minster will toll out its bell 2016 times this year.

church in 1434 – now Dewsbury Minster – to atone for his sins, and the practice of tolling the Devil’s Knell on Christmas Eve began – one toll for each year of the Christian era, to proclaim the defeat of evil and forgiveness of all sins. That makes 2,016 tolls this year, finishing exactly on the stroke of midnight. “We do allow visitors [in the minster bell tower], but they must not distract the ringing or counting,” says the tower captain, Derek Johnstone.

On Christmas Day in Yorkshire, Lancashire and Derbyshire, after tackling the turkey, figgy pudding and mince pies, the custom is to pair a chunk of zesty cheese with Christmas cake to cut through its fruity richness.

CELTIC CUSTOMS Christmas Day sees families in some parts of Wales rising early for Plygain – possibly from the Latin pullicantio, meaning ‘the crowing of the cockerel’. This is an early morning church service, originally held between three and six o’clock. In St Rhedyw Church, Llanllyfni, near Caernarfon, where Plygain has been celebrated for centuries, singing now starts at seven o’clock in the morning. “It’s lovely as dawn breaks and gives a very special atmosphere to begin the day,” says churchwarden Laurina Hughes. It was not uncommon for people to rise at two and merrily decorate their houses with holly and mistletoe, before heading to church.

In Kirkwall, capital of the Scottish island of Orkney, Christmas Day signals Ba’ – a mass football skirmish around the cobbled streets, pitting one side of the island against the other. Boasting a 700-year heritage, the contest can last for hours. This year, however, as Christmas Day falls on a Sunday, the Ba’ will come out on Boxing Day instead.

BOXING DAY Often, Boxing Day activities are not for those who have over-indulged the day before. There are sword dancers out in force in northern towns like Handsworth near Sheffield and Greatham, County Durham, whilst mumming takes place in Marshfield in Gloucestershire. Here, The Old Time Paper Boys – so named for their paper-decorated costumes – re-enact time-honoured scenes of fighting, death and miraculous recovery in the market place, whilst Old Father Beelzebub collects money for charity from gathered families and friends.

Year to year, century to century, such customs continue to wrap Christmas in irrepressible good cheer.  THE ENGLISH HOME 7

FAR LEFT Holly, ivy, robins and

candles are all part of the Christmas ambience – and no festive table setting is complete without a cracker for every guest.

Stoneware plates, from £12; napkins, £20 for a set of four; Mambo 24-piece cutlery set, £50, all Cottage in the Hills ABOVE The Royal Christmas Day Message has become something of an institution, both at home and abroad.

LEFT The ingredients of a traditional Christmas cake are steeped in symbolism: 13 ingredients represent Jesus and his disciples, whilst the spices symbolise the exotic gifts of the Three Wise Men.

Traditions ACROSS THE NATION There are a number of traditions enjoyed throughout the land that are steeped in religious custom and cultural history.

STIR-UP SUNDAY

Taking place on the Sunday before Advent, this is the perfect day for making the Christmas pudding, which takes several weeks to mature. The Anglican prayer for this day traditionally began with the words “Stir up, we beseech thee, O Lord...” which would spur cooks into action on their return from church. The pudding should contain 13 ingredients – one each for Jesus and his disciples – and should be stirred (whilst making a wish) from east to west in honour of the Wise Men. MIDNIGHT MASS

The Midnight Mass communion (Christ-Mas), celebrating the birth of Christ, takes place on the night of the 24th, due in part to the Christian liturgical day starting at sunset on 8 THE ENGLISH HOME

the preceding day combined with the belief that Jesus was born at night.

CAROL SINGING

The word ‘carol’ comes from the Greek word ‘choros’ meaning ‘dancing in a circle’ and grew out of the celebrations of the pagan winter festival. Carol singing with dancing became popular in the Middle Ages when beggars used to wander the land singing for food and charity; later this was outlawed by Oliver Cromwell. The singing of carols regained popularity in Victorian times, however, when many of the best loved carols were written. Today, many people reflect the medieval tradition by singing songs for charity and attend carol services, particularly Festivals of Nine Lessons and Carols.

CHRISTMAS CRACKERS

This tradition was initiated by a Victorian London sweetmaker, Tom Smith, inspired

by the French tradition of ‘bon bons’ – almonds wrapped in pretty paper – to which he added little paper mottos, and later, the ‘crack’ when the wrappers were pulled apart.

He has a lot of bad jokes to answer for! The British tradition of having a cracker besides the plate at Christmas dinner has become as iconic as the wearing of colourful paper crowns (to represent the Wise Men).

QUEEN’S SPEECH

King George V read the first Royal Christmas Message on BBC’s Empire Service in 1932, thereby initiating a new Christmas custom in Britain and beyond. It has become an annual ritual in many households to gather at 3pm to listen to – and, from 1957, to watch – the speech. In 2015, 7.8 million British viewers alone tuned in for the Queen’s broadcast. In recent years, these speeches have increasingly reflected the Queen’s own interests and her compassion and concern for her people. n

Peals of church bells ring out all over the country in celebration of Christmas morning. A sprinkling of snow, as here at a Dorset village church, adds to the atmosphere.

The senses OF CHRISTMAS No other time of year engages the senses - taste, touch, sight, hearing and smell - as Christmas does, with its abundance of music, feasting, fragrance, decorative elements and laughter

Plenty of flickering candlelight is a must over Christmas, bouncing off the tree decorations, making them shimmer and sparkle; its soft, warming light providing a beautiful, calming effect in a room.

Walls, Calke Green, ÂŁ39.50 for 2.5 litres, Farrow & Ball

TASTE SALLY CLARKE, CHEF

At Sally Clarke’s eponymous restaurant on Kensington Church Street, London, the imminence of Christmas is marked by the scent of spices she and her team include in mince pies, and the deeply coloured flesh of blood oranges that are in season at this time. “We use a lot of blood oranges, and the smell of the peel and the zest is always very evocative,” she says.

Over its 31 years, the restaurant has become synonymous with good food simply prepared, and, unsurprisingly, Sally advocates keeping Christmas dinner within achievable limits. “I sense that in most families there is such an anticipation of everything going perfectly, and every cook in the land wanting to do their very, very best that I do feel people tend to overcomplicate things,” she says. “My advice to whoever is cooking is to keep the menu as straightforward as possible and to include something they’re comfortable with and used to making, rather than leaping into a wild and wonderful recipe that they’ve found online and heaven knows whether it is going to work or not.”

Achieving a balanced menu is important, too: Sally suggests holding back on rich food in favour of something more subtle, and not overeating. “I often choose something as simple as a bowl of clementines that could sit on the table and be served as part of the dessert, or a lovely bowl of what I call winter fruits that come from the tropics, such as pineapples and mangoes or papaya and limes. A combination of those flavours would cut the richness of the preceding part of the meal but give the feel of a menu in some way. I can barely eat a teaspoon of Christmas pudding before my appetite is absolutely killed, although the rest of my family absolutely loves it.”

Sally’s own celebrations are modest, spending Christmas Eve and Christmas Day with close family. “One of my pet loves on Christmas Eve is to listen to the Nine Lessons and Carols from King’s College Cambridge on Radio 4. I save the wrapping of my Christmas presents until then, and I like to be all by myself for an hour and a half wrapping them up.”

SALLY’S INSIGHTFUL TIPS

• Prepare ahead as much as possible, leaving only delicate items until the last minute. Keep the sink tidy and a kettle of boiling water on the go at all times.

• Aim for a crisp, easy-to-make starter, such as winter salad leaves, blood orange and mozzarella or burrata.

Or perhaps a platter of smoked fish, prepared the day before, with some horseradish cream.

• Making mince pies is a thrill, but they can be quite complicated so I think buying mince pies is acceptable.

We make thousands of them in our bakery.

• If I am in London, I use my car as a cold store for cheese and vegetables, saving fridge space for Champagne and all the extra food that must be kept well chilled.

• Do not drink anything until all is on the table.

ABOVE Make the kitchen festive with twinkly lights and some nibbles to keep any hungry helpers going throughout the day.

Kitchen, Artisan range, from £13,000, John Lewis of Hungerford BELOW LEFT Juicy and full of flavour, clementines are an essential component of Christmas, for their scent or as a refreshing snack.

BELOW Serve the piping-hot Christmas pudding with deliciously cool brandy cream to provide a contrasting taste sensation.

Sally Clarke: 30 Ingredients by Sally Clarke is out now (Frances Lincoln, £25). Visit sallyclarke.com 

THE ENGLISH HOME 11

VISION MARISA DALY, INTERIOR STYLIST With clients such Burleigh Pottery,

Martin Moore and Cox & Cox, Marisa Daly’s considerable styling skills have graced the pages of many interiors magazines and product catalogues.

Her London home is a modest Victorian terrace, and at Christmas she is inclined towards simplicity, lest the setting become overwhelming. “I have a green painted kitchen with brass fixtures and that forms the backdrop for my Christmas decorating,” she says. “I pick up the colour accents that are already there because otherwise it would feel cluttered. But if you have a large country house you can afford to be a little more extravagant on the decorations.

I tend to go with green, with gold or brass elements. And I like to use natural foliage, too, whether that’s hanging it around the windows, placing it on the mantel or using it as a centrepiece down a Christmas dining table.”

In addition to fixing a wreath to the front door, Marisa suggests hanging glass baubles with different lengths of ribbon inside a street-facing window to create a pretty scene for passers-by. For these try Nkuku, Decorator’s Notebook, India Jane and Rockett St George. Liberty also has pretty designs, and buying one or two special decorations a year to keep as heirlooms can be satisfying.

Marisa prefers to wrap presents in block-printed papers such as those from Tobias and the Angel, Cambridge Imprint and Paperchase. “I like to tuck a piece of green foliage under the label, so there is a lot of eucalyptus and small fir fronds.

I also use plenty of velvet ribbon but brown twine, too, which is a nice contrast to the richness of the velvet.”

She also suggests using pieces by Jo Heckett, who sells her delicate ceramic angels, candy canes and snowflakes through the Etsy website. “They’re really special, really simple. It’s nice to use people who actually make them” “I tend to veer away from the obvious Christmas decorating trends and go for something a bit more delicate. I think you just need a beautiful wreath at the front door, some lovely foliage around the window and a very simply dressed tree to make it look cohesive. I would definitely say less is more.”

Green and gold decorations create the perfect backdrop.

Premium pre-lit Christmas tree, £300; baubles from £5.50; Stars wrapping paper, £12.50; Stars ribbon, £9.50, all Cox & Cox

See marisadaly.com

MARISA’S STYLING THOUGHTS

• Hang a wreath on the door, ideally made from gathered foliage. “I think a wreath is the perfect welcome and a signifier of a festive time; it is a beautiful way of saying ‘Christmas’ straight off,” Marisa says.

• Use plenty of candles, making sure they are attended at all times. “Candlelight is essential. It is beautiful and calming. So, I would say candles, candles and more candles. You can’t have enough, really.”

• For an instant Christmas mood, use brass or gold. “They are so timeless, you will use them again and again. Investing in good Christmas pieces is worth it.”

• Avoid decorating fads and fashions. “Sometimes people say, this year I’m decorating with teal’ or something, and I just think, ‘Oh no! It dates so quickly’.”

Cone and berry wreath, £25, National Trust Shop

12 THE ENGLISH HOME

• Use a few key pieces to set the tone. Marisa recommends plates by Astier de Villatte, available through Designers Guild. “They’re far too beautiful to eat off but if you buy a few they can be used as presentation plates for canapes. They have such a timeless look they’re worth investing in.”

JO’S IDEAS FOR INDULGENT SEASONAL SCENT

• Tie fresh sticks of cinnamon in a pretty tartan ribbon, and attach them to the Christmas tree where their scent will mingle with the sharper notes of fir and cypress.

• Display a selection of oranges and clementines, either fresh or studded with cloves.

• Keep a pot of mulled wine on the hob during parties, so the smell of citrus and spices can fill the house.

• For a pretty table decoration, time the blooming of some bulbs of white narcissus with Christmas. Their lighter, brighter note will hint at the season to come.

• Taste and smell are inextricably linked. Spiced, citrussy liqueurs such as Drambuie and Grand Marnier will help to set the mood.

Olfactory memories are often the most powerful: a scent can whisk you back to a wonderful moment in time SCENT JOSEPHINE FAIRLEY, ENTREPRENEUR & PERFUMIER

ABOVE Hot mulled wine flavoured will imbue the house with a festive aroma.

RIGHT A dusting of icing sugar and a sprig of holly makes a plate of mince pies look even more deliciously appetising.

For Josephine Fairley, an avowed fan of fragrance, the classic scent of Christmas emerges on Stir-up Sunday – which this year falls on 20 November – with the aroma of Christmas pudding. “It starts the Christmas season so effectively and, if you make your own pudding to your own blend of spices, it becomes a personal scent and starts you on your own personal Advent countdown,” she says.

Foliage plays a large part in Jo’s Christmas, too. “The smell of pine is always evocative of Christmas for me,” she adds, admitting that she selects her Christmas trees not only for their appearance but their sweet-sharp, resinous smell, too. “I always sniff my Christmas trees before I buy them. Some trees have little pine cones on them, too, which I like. They’re sticky and fragrant.”

Along with the natural aromas of mince pieces and puddings in the oven, and garlands of cypress and elegant stems of eucalyptus, Jo likes to enhance the scent of her home with just a few select products. “I am a big fan of scented candles – and candles, rather than reeds, which can attract dust and look greasy. Someone gave me a large, three-wick Diptyque candle in Feu de Bois, which I love for its smoky, woody scent that reminds me of a bonfire. Neom, too, makes a candle, Christmas Wish, which is also appropriate for the time,” she notes.

Jo suggests opting for darker scents at this time of year, rather than, for instance, a white floral, which might be too sweet. In all instances she advises a discerning purchase. “You have to be a bit careful, especially with something like cinnamon. Pine is another one you want to be careful with because it can smell like a domestic cleaning product. You probably have to spend a bit of money on a good one.” Other options include Fireside by Birch & Brook, with notes of cedarwood, moss and musk, and hints of patchouli, which“smells of an open fire, firewood and evergreens”.

Orange & Bergamot by Molton Brown, and Noël from Annick Goutal receive a nod, as does Nazareth from Cire Trudon.

See josephinefairley.com and perfumesociety.org



THE ENGLISH HOME 13

SOPHIE’S FAVOURITE THINGS

• Board games. “We’re very keen on them and it gets quite competitive. The kids like Pucket – it is very noisy – but, personally, Scrabble, backgammon, Monopoly, all the old favourites.”

• Garlands, for which Sophie has the help of her friend Nikki Tibbles at the florist Wild at Heart in London.

• Long Boxing Day walks, if the weather is good. “We’re very near the Ridgeway and Avebury. It is really beautiful around there. “ • The unexpected. “I think that you can only plan a certain amount and the rest you just have to enjoy the way it comes. It is lovely to be able to have whoever can come, come. There is always a spare place.”

• Christmas chaos. “It all seems to come together in the end though, doesn’t it,” she says.

“You can’t always have the perfect Christmas in reality, but you can have it in your imagination if you have the right music” John Rutter

TOUCH SOPHIE CONRAN, DESIGNER

“Last year, the Christmas tree fell over.

Just as everybody was arriving. Three dogs; 15 people; the tree... It was in a stand that had a quick-release lever on it and my son was underneath the tree. He nudged the lever accidentally and the whole thing went crashing down. We were lucky that it was quite funny,” recalls designer Sophie Conran.

The touch of Christmas is as much about the softness of a woolly jumper, the prickle of a fir tree and the warmth of a Christmas pudding as it is the familiar, unconditional embrace of people we love. And for most, the embracing of the season starts just as the evenings grow cold. “At the end of the year I like to walk through the woods and see the leaves falling from the trees, which seems to be happening later now,” says Sophie.

“Then you take out your coat and sometimes you feel and find something in the pocket that you’ve forgotten about.

“I like getting out the Christmas decorations, which I keep in wicker hampers in a cupboard. I wrap them up in tissue paper and forget about them over the year. Then, when I take them down, it is the sound of the tissue paper and the memories that evokes because some of them were made by the children.

“I have a place in the country and a place in London and I’ll do a different tree in each. I sometimes do a small children’s tree, too, and all the gaudy colours go on that. A couple of years ago, I had my nieces to stay and they helped me to decorate that tree. They don’t have a long attention span, but it was fun.”

For Sophie, Christmas itself involves a “grown-up dinner” on Christmas Eve, followed by a late breakfast and a large, long, late lunch on Christmas Day. “We have stockings in bed, then breakfast, then present opening, then lots of cooking with everybody getting involved,” she says. “Last Christmas was special because we had a new house in the country. We had lots of family to stay, and my ex-husband came for the day, so my children had both their parents. It was lovely, really lovely.”  See sophieconran.com 14 THE ENGLISH HOME

ABOVE A beautifully laid table is of the utmost importance at Christmas, as is ensuring everyone is comfortably seated.

‘Nora’ red tablecloth; ‘Stephanie’ red china, Stephanie; glasses and blankets, all from a selection, Greengate

SOUND

FEATURE VIVIENNE HAMBLY PHOTOGRAPHY P10 (FARROW & BALL) © JAMES MERRELL; P11 (CLEMENTINES & MINCE PIES) © SHUTTERSTOCK; (JOHN LEWIS OF HUNGERFORD) © JON DAY; P13 (CINNAMON) © SHUTTERSTOCK; P13 (MULLED WINE) © THE PICTURE PANTRY/ALAMY; P14 (SNOWY WALK) © PAUL HAWKETT/ALAMY; P15 (KING’S COLLEGE CHAPEL) © GEOFFREY ROBINSON/ALAMY; (SHEET MUSIC) © TETRA IMAGES/ALAMY; (ROYAL ALBERT HALL) © LONDONSTILLS.COM/ALAMY

JOHN RUTTER, COMPOSER & CONDUCTOR

Few contemporary composers are more closely associated with Christmas music than John Rutter, whose pieces are performed in carol services around the world. He is arguably most widely known for the carol Shepherd’s Pipe, composed when he was just 18 and translated into several languages, including Nepalese.

“I have been called a kind of musical Santa Claus,” he admits.

“I am active all year round, but if people know nothing else about me, they know the carols I’ve written. I genuinely enjoy Christmas, whether writing the music for it or conducting a performance of carols. It’s a happy time and music makes it complete.”

Although Christmas hymns can be traced back to Roman times, it was not until the monastic compositions of the Middle Ages that they became more prevalent, and yet many of the most popular carols are fairly recent. The tune for Silent Night, for example, was composed as recently as in 1818, by Franz Gruber.

“Christmas carols are a kind of folk art; a good Christmas carol almost sounds as if no-one has written it. And, for modern composers, they’re an excuse to write a tune. It is always a pleasure to write a new carol, but I also hope it will bring joy and pleasure to those who hear it. It is a little gift that you are able to give to all sorts of people.”

John has lived near Cambridge all his adult life, and for him Christmas is strongly associated with the service of Nine Lessons and Carols sung by the choir of King’s College, Cambridge in their chapel, which he always attends. The service was devised after the First World War in 1918 and has been held every year since, save for 1930. “I love to hear the choir sing and it is a wonderful chapel for sound. So for me, Christmas is the sound of the King’s College choir in that particular chapel.

“In my opinion, music is what makes Christmas perfect. You can’t always have the perfect Christmas – the turkey may burn, someone may be inappropriate – but you can have the perfect Christmas in your imagination if you have the right music.”

The John Rutter Christmas Celebration takes place at the Royal Albert Hall, London, on 8 December at 3pm and 7.30pm, and at the Birmingham Symphony Hall on 12 December at 7.30pm. For more information, visit johnrutter.com n

JOHN RUTTER’S FAVOURITE CAROLS

• In the Bleak Midwinter, sung by the King’s College Choir in the King’s College chapel. “Gustav Holst’s setting is popular but I am rather fond of Harold Darke’s.

It is one of the carols that choirs love to sing and when I hear it, it feels like Christmas.”

• In Dulci Jubilo (Good Christian Men Rejoice) is a traditional carol originally sung in German and Latin. Its text is thought to date from the 1300s.

• Oh Come All Ye Faithful, popularly arranged by Stephen Cleobury. “This is one that everyone can join in and it gets things going,” says John.

• I Wonder as I Wander, an American folk hymn, collected and written down in 1933 by folklorist John Jacob Niles.

• The Shepherd’s Carol, by Bob Chilcott, was commissioned and composed for the Festival of Nine Lessons and Carols at King’s College, Cambridge Choir in 2000.

ABOVE The King’s College Choir in King’s College Chapel, Cambridge, rehearsing for Christmas Eve’s Festival of the Nine Lessons and Carols.

LEFT The Royal Albert Hall in Kensington, London, lit up at night in readiness for a festive concert and carol singing.

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inical, but fresh and calm. gentle warmth is imbued through textural details. Throw pen the windows and let the soft summer breeze drift through and fill the home with light and air. inical, but fresh and calm. gentle warmth is imbued through textural details. Throw pen the windows and let the soft summer breeze drift through and fill the home with light and air.

Arts and Crafts Christmas Looking to a colour palette inspired by the Arts and Crafts movement, this heart-warming setting provides a rich, nostalgic treat. Baubles in hues of gold, teal, bronze and red shimmer against the deep green backdrop of the tree.

Wallpaper, Strawberry Thief 212563, ÂŁ58 a roll; Morris Spruce Christmas tree, ÂŁ295; tree decorations from the Ruskin House collection, all John Lewis 16 THE ENGLISH HOME

Deck the

HALLS

A strong Arts and Crafts feel this Christmas harks back to simpler, heartwarming times

P TOP Highland fling Tartan-trimmed plates and a bold tartan tablecloth make for wonderful place-settings at the Christmas table.

All from a selection at Marks & Spencer ABOVE All aglow The gentle flicker of candlelight is delightful at any time of year, but even more so at Christmas. Dinnerware, from £1.50, Sketched Berry, Christmas Cottage range, Sainsbury’s

icture a traditional Christmas and, invariably, a richly coloured scheme, dressed in decorations of red, green and gold, will spring to mind. Such colours aptly adorn a classical festive setting, but we need not be constrained to such a limited choice. The addition of bronze, navy blue and deep teal brings layers of jewel-like iridescence to the expected colour palette without losing any classic allure.

If seeking inspiration, consider looking to the rich hues of the medieval era, and the Arts and Crafts movement, with its sumptuous schemes and use of ornate print motifs. In addition, the use of hand-crafted pieces, from natural foliage garlands to thoughtful name tags for place settings, will bring a subtle period feel to the way you adorn your home. 

THE ENGLISH HOME 17

“The purest and most thoughtful minds are those which love colour the most.”

John Ruskin (1819–1900), art critic, social thinker and philanthropist

TOP LEFT Homespun feel These fretwork wooden tree decorations have a charmingly naive look which sits well in a more traditional Christmas setting. Each set comprises a heart, star, dove and tree.

Children will adore the little bells that swing from each, and who knows... perhaps they will chime merrily when Father Christmas brushes past the tree to fill an awaiting stocking?

Cream wooden decorations, set of four, £12, from the Christmas Home at notonthehighstreet.com MIDDLE LEFT Shimmer and shine Watch as these antique-mirror decorations catch the light, either dangling from the branches of the Christmas tree or entwined in a garland draped along a mantlepiece.

They would be equally beautiful used to adorn napkins, tied around the cloth instead of napkin rings.

Snowflake antique-mirror baubles, £12.95 for a set of four, Decorator’s Notebook MAIN RIGHT Simple setting A modestly dressed festive table can be every bit as appealing as an ornate and extravagant setting, as this country vignette aptly demonstrates. The two-tone tableware and tablecloth add colour and pattern leaving a plethora of pillar candles and votives to set the perfect ambience. Pots of rosemary make a lovely evergreen display on the sideboard and could offer sprigs of green for each place setting to complete the rustic effect.

Tablecloth, £18; napkins, £4 for a set of two; dinnerware, from £3.50 for a cereal bowl, all Sketched Berry, Christmas Cottage range, Sainsbury’s

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“I will honour Christmas in my heart, and try to keep it all the year.”

A Christmas Carol, Charles Dickens (1812–1870)

LEFT Period print Crisp white china always looks smart but needs softening to suit a country Christmas setting. This charming patterned tableware and tinware features prints inspired by the work of William Morris and immediately lends a timeless air to a Boxing Day tea-time feast. This set is by Portmeirion and is exclusive to Wyevale Garden Centres.

Cake slice, £14.99; pastry forks, £17.99 for a set of four; jugs from £21.99; storage tins, £24.99 for a set of three; bowl, £24.99, all Portmeirion Strawberry Thief collection, Wyevale Garden Centres TOP RIGHT Gift-wrapped Wrap presents with a nod to a more nostalgic style in plain papers tied with lace or braid and finished with individual sprigs of foliage and flowers. Simple gift tags with handwritten messages will make each present feel even more personal.

Fresh present adornments, designed to order, Interflora RIGHT Religious resonance Add a rich medieval opulence and reference the Christian importance of the Christmas season with these beautiful velvet cushions propped up on sofas or in a guest bedroom.

Merry Christmas cushion, £25; Angel cushion, £19.50; deep red velvet cushion, £29.50, all Marks & Spencer

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TOP LEFT Bulging with promise Although a homemade Christmas stocking never fails to heighten the anticipation and excitement on Christmas Eve and Christmas morning, this personalised hessian sack is a rather lovely alternative. It will easily hold as much as the pillowcases some families leave out in hope of a wondrous bounty of presents.

Personalised Rowland Christmas sack, £22, from The Handmade Christmas Company BOTTOM LEFT Angelic host These rusted metal angel wings just need to be pressed gently into pillar candles to add a heavenly decorative touch to any dining table or mantlepiece.

Rusted Metal Candle Wings, £5 for a pair, Weathered Products, RE-foundobjects.com RIGHT Monogrammed allure These letter baubles are tree decorations but might also be used as gift tags or place-settings at the dinner table. Care must be taken when using as gift tags, as these are glass-fronted, but will offer a long-term keepsake.

Monogram baubles, £5 each; wrapping paper, from £4, Ruskin House collection, all John Lewis n

PHOTOGRAPHY P22 (ANGEL WINGS) © RAY MAIN/MAINSTREAMIMAGES.CO.UK

ABOVE Circle of colour Handmade, fresh-foliage wreaths are lovely but a really good quality faux-foliage wreath is a perfect alternative when time is pressing.

Laden with pine cones, apples, pomegranates, berries and cinnamon sticks, this wreath evokes a warm nostalgia of seasons past, and can be enjoyed year after year.

Heritage Spice Wreath, available in 18-inch or 26-inch sizes, lit or unlit, from £69, Balsam Hill

THE ENGLISH HOME 23

A taste of HISTORY

These historic recipes are an intriguing insight into festive celebrations of the past, with a fascinating cultural connection

24 THE ENGLISH HOME

W

ith great good fortune, a member of the team here at The English Home magazine stumbled across a vintage cookery book entitled A Book of Scents and Dishes in a charity shop.

Written by Dorothy Allhusen, a society lady of the time, the book was first published by Williams & Norgate in 1926, and is a collection of historic recipes donated by members of the aristocracy, chatelaines of large country estates and luminaries from the world of art and literature, such as Vita Sackville-West.

The aim of the book was for the proceeds of its sales to go to charity, an idea which the author attributes to Mrs Thomas Hardy – the writer Thomas Hardy’s second wife, Florence – of Max Gate, Dorchester. And it is Mrs Hardy’s own Christmas recipes we share for your pleasure here. We have extracted the instructions exactly as they were published.

MRS THOMAS HARDY’S CHRISTMAS PUDDING RECIPE 2lbs raisins 2lbs currants 1lb sultanas 1½lbs breadcrumbs ½lb flour 2lbs suet ¼lb blanched almonds, cut fine 1 nutmeg 1 teaspoonful mixed spice 1 teaspoonful salt Rind of 2 lemons, chopped fine 1lb moist sugar 1lb mixed peel 12 eggs 1 teacupful milk 1 wineglassful rum 1 wineglassful brandy ½ pint stout or ale Juice of 2 lemons

This quantity will make three good puddings.

To make the Christmas puddings

• First mix all the dry ingredients well.

• Beat the eggs and add the liquor to them. Then, make a hole in the middle of the dry mixture and pour this in.

• Thoroughly mix all together.

• Boil for seven hours in well-buttered pudding basins.

• Turn out and serve with brandy butter.

MRS THOMAS HARDY’S CHRISTMAS CAKE 6oz butter 6oz raw sugar 2oz treacle 3 eggs ¼ pint warm, new milk 1lb currants ¼lb candied peel, chopped 1oz sweet almonds 1oz bitter almonds, chopped ½lb flour

To make the Christmas cake

• Beat the butter to a cream.

• Add the sugar and treacle, and beat well. Then add the eggs whole, one by one, beating the mixture thoroughly between each.

• Add the milk very gradually, beat well for a few minutes longer.

• Then add the currants, the peel and the almonds.

• Stir these in well, and lastly, and very lightly, add the flour.

(If the flour is beaten in with the other ingredients the cake will not be light).

• Bake in a moderate-to-slow oven for three hours.

Once cool, you could turn out, ice and decorate as desired before serving.

(Note: the image above shows an iced variation of a Christmas cake.) n THE ENGLISH HOME 25

CHRISTMAS ESCAPES Whether seeking a majestic country manor for a large gathering or a cosy cottage for a smaller celebration, we have picked some of the best places for festive breaks

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CHRISTMAS IN A CASTLE What could be more magical than spending Christmas in a castle? King John’s Castle dates from 1080 and was captured by Oliver Cromwell in the seventeenth century.

Deck the historic halls with holly and pile the presents beneath the tree, positioned either in a cosy corner of the drawing room or the more stately ballroom. Despite the impressive grandeur, the castle offers a warm welcome for large festive gatherings, with open fires, inviting bedrooms and a fully equipped kitchen to ensure a delectable festive spread.

Enjoy dinner at the carved oak table in the spacious dining room with its views of the surrounding winter scenery.

King John’s Castle, Devizes, Wiltshire. Sleeps 13.

Five-night stay over Christmas from £8,245. thewowhousecompany.com

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CROWD PLEASER For those needing to accommodate the whole family at Christmas, Kimmeridge Hall on the Jurassic Coast may be the answer. This Georgian country manor sleeps up to 15 guests, with spacious living areas that include comfy sofas and open fires. There is no need to divide up kitchen duties, with the option of hiring a top-class private chef, ensuring the turkey is perfect and the trifle has set.

Exuberant guests can wrap up warm and take in the sea air with a walk through the property’s grounds to beautiful Kimmeridge Bay, where they can try their luck at fossil hunting.

Kimmeridge Hall, Kimmeridge, Dorset. Sleeps 15.

A week’s stay from 23 December is £3,400 or £227 a person, per night. kateandtoms.com THE ENGLISH HOME 27

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PUTTING ON THE GLITZ For an elegant Christmas celebration, look no further than Pelsham Manor, situated just outside Rye, East Sussex. This period manor house, decorated in opulent fabrics and antiques, is the perfect setting for a festive house party. Set the dining table for a decadent dinner, then plan the evening’s entertainment in the sitting room beside the open fire. Finally, retire to a four-poster bed in one of the four luxurious suites. For outdoor types, there are 600 acres of parkland to explore, or simply curl up in the library and catch up on holiday reading as the winter darkness draws in.

Pelsham Manor, Rye, East Sussex. Sleeps 10.

A week’s stay in December from £3,005 for up to 10 guests. uniquehomestays.com

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IN THE WOODS Spend Christmas away from the hustle and bustle at enchanting Hole Cottage, a surviving cross-wing of a late medieval hall house located in a romantic forest setting in the Kent Weald. Snuggle up in the sitting area, sipping sherry and nibbling mince pies to the sound of the crackling open fire, the creaking beams and, perhaps, Santa’s sleigh bells in the distance. If you are tempted to venture out, nearby historic attractions include Anne Boleyn’s childhood home Hever Castle and Elizabethan Penshurst Place. Or simply stroll through the surrounding woodland to the nearby stream.

Hole Cottage, Cowden, Kent. Sleeps four.

Four nights in December from £548. landmarktrust.org.uk

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WARM WELCOME Leave Christmas to the hospitality experts at Tudor Farmhouse, located in the quaint village of Clearwell in the Forest of Dean.

On Christmas Eve, explore Clearwell Caves, then return to the hotel for mince pies and mulled wine whilst listening to carols played by a brass quartet. After checking the end of your luxurious bed in your suite for a filled stocking, start Christmas Day with a buck’s fizz breakfast, leaving room for a traditional lunch. On Boxing Day, break up the festive feasting of breakfast, afternoon tea and dinner with a guided walk around the village.

Tudor Farmhouse, Clearwell, Gloucestershire.

Christmas packages start from £1,050; normal B&B from £100 for a double or twin room. tudorfarmhousehotel.co.uk

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Tradition, style and luxury make for the perfect, indulgent Christmas break

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STILL WATERS Escape to a magical lakeside hideaway over the festive season. Gilpin Lake House and Spa in the Lake District is a luxurious boutique hotel with just six rooms, offering a peaceful, stress-free retreat. Enjoy a programme including a relaxing lunch by Lake Windermere and a Christmas Day of feasting at a leisurely pace. If that is not enough to decompress, find a seat by the fire in the lounge overlooking the water, or relax in the hot tub with a glass of bubbly. There are also plenty of peaceful walks in the grounds to take time out and feel invigorated and ready for the new year.

Gilpin Lake House and Spa, Crook, Cumbria.

From £495 per night. sawdays.co.uk  THE ENGLISH HOME 29

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TOWER ABOVE Make it a Christmas to remember with a memorable stay in rural Sussex. The Shooting Box Tower was originally the Shooting Lodge for Ashburnham Place – a grand estate during the eighteenth century. Wake up to magnificent views over the fields – which, fingers crossed, may be snow-covered – to Hastings and beyond.

For those feeling the need to work off any overindulgence, wrap up for an afternoon walk to nearby Eatenden Wood, returning to warm tired toes by the fire in the large living area. History fans may enjoy a drive to medieval Battle, festooned with festive lights at this time of year.

Shooting Box Tower, Netherfield, Sussex.

Sleeps eight. From £1,1750 for a week from 22 December. kentandsussexcottages.co.uk

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Pack wellington boots for bracing, winter walks in the glorious English countryside

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ROOM AT THE INN Allow The Crown hotel, in the market town of Amersham, to take care of everything over Christmas. The rooms of this 500-yearold inn provide a serene escape, combining old-world charm with modern comfort.

Snuggle under Welsh wool blankets and soak in a roll-top bath, either with a book or glass of wine in hand. Enjoy a warming drink by the open fire in the welcoming pub before a meal at The Crown Chop House restaurant, which offers farmhouse fare made with local ingredients. Do not forget to pack those wellingtons, as it is well worth getting out of bed for a Boxing Day ramble in the surrounding Chiltern Hills.

The Crown Inn, Amersham, Buckinghamshire.

From £140 per night. mrandmrssmith.com n

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ADDRESS BOOK Cath Kidston Tel 0845 026 2440 cathkidston.com

Marisa Daly Tel 07753 804458 marisadaly.com

Cottage in the Hills Tel 01684 833146 cottageinthehills.com

Mr & Mrs Smith Tel 0330 100 3180 mrandmrssmith.com

Decorator’s Notebook Tel 0845 474 1747 decoratorsnotebook.co.uk

Nikki Tibbles Tel 020 7727 3095 wildatheart.com

Designers Guild Tel 020 7893 7400 designersguild.com

Not on the High Street Tel 0345 259 1359 notonthehighstreet.com

Farrow & Ball Tel 01179 733900 farrow-ball.com

Perch & Parrow perchandparrow.com

Greengate greengate.dk The Handmade Christmas Company Tel 020 3750 3012 handmadechristmasco.com Interflora Tel 0333 003 3588 interflora.co.uk John Lewis of Hungerford Tel 01179 467961 john-lewis.co.uk John Rutter johnrutter.com

Perfume Society perfumesociety.org RE-foundobjects.com re-foundobjects.com Sainsbury’s Tel 0800 636 262 sainsburys.co.uk Sally Clarke Tel 020 7229 2190 sallyclarke.com Sawday’s Tel 01172 047810 sawdays.co.uk

Josephine Fairley josephinefairley.com

Sophie Conran Tel 020 7727 3095 sophieconran.com

Kate and Tom’s Tel 01242 235151 kateandtoms.com

Tudor Farmhouse Tel 01594 833046 tudorfarmhousehotel.co.uk

Kent & Sussex Cottages Tel 01580 720770 kentandsussexcottages.co.uk

Unique Home Stays Tel 01637 881183 uniquehomestays.com

Landmark Trust Tel 01628 825925 landmarktrust.org.uk

The Wow House Company Tel 01242 220006 thewowhousecompany.com

FOR READERS IN THE USA AND CANADA Whilst The English Home is British through and through, almost everything featured can be bought by readers in the US and Canada. Simply contact the relevant company using the details in our address book.

TELEPHONING THE UK We list English telephone numbers for companies featured within the magazine as we know that they stock the products we love. Where an English number is listed and you are ringing from the USA or Canada, dial the international code “01144” , then drop the first “0” in the listing. Freephone numbers (0800 and 0808) do not work outside of the UK. TIME DIFFERENCE British Time is five hours ahead of Eastern Standard Time in the US and Canada.

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THE ENGLISH HOME 31