The Black Sheep: on Princess Diana’s statement sweaters

Plagued by the tracksuit: How Covid-19 changed fashion fundamentally

Elena Buccisano explores the best, and worse, fashion consequences of the coronavirus pandemic.

Since being somewhat released from the restrictive hold of Covid-19 lockdowns and being allowed back into a world in which we see more the beginning of an online shopping addiction. Just as fast as I rehomed my old clothes, I replaced them with new ones – a process which I now look back on as than just our families every day, I think many of us reached some sort of crisis when it came to dressing. After months of being inside, curating my tracksuit collection, the easing of lockdown restrictions certainly made me re-evaluate how I dress, a process which I think started in the midst of “The lockdown did not only lockdown. Having not much else mean a clearto do during the first major lockdown in 2020, I spent time going through out, but also the beginning of an all the clothes I owned and wondering either why online shopping I had ever bought such an addition.” ugly item, or why I still owned clothes from my questionable and much less fashionable pre-teen days. The wardrobe I was staring at was thoroughly outdated and uninspiring. So, I began the gradual process of rehoming the clothes I knew I would never wear again through platforms such as Depop and eBay or donating them to my local charity shop and clothes bank. Unfortunately, as many of us experienced, the lockdown did not only mean a clear-out, but also unmaintainable and primarily done out of boredom. Although I am now trying to consciously change how and where I shop for clothes, I occasionally find myself tempted by that ‘out with the old and in with the new’ mindset, triggered by lockdowns, of periodically reinventing my wardrobe and searching the internet for new ‘trendy’ clothes whilst selling or donating my older ones. Like many, I have spent much of the last year in more casual clothes – primarily tracksuit bottoms and an endless rota of hoodies and jumpers – telling myself that there was no point in dressing up because there was nothing to dress up for. However, since we’ve gained more liberty to go out and do more things, I find myself starting to enjoy fashion once again – something which Covid took away. Even on simple trips to Tesco or to a bar with friends, I now put more effort into my outfit than I would have in pre-Covid times. On reflection, after so long of not having a reason to pick out a nice outfit, the chance to do so has become enjoyable again, even if it is for a fairly mundane occasion! For a while though, the idea of putting on a dress for a special occasion felt bewildering and frankly intimidating after residing in my fashion comfort zone for so long. But after some time, that stopped being strange.

Now not only do I appreciate fashion more, but I wear things that aren’t so familiar to me – opting for more ‘out there’ clothing which I would have previously been too self-conscious to wear. Covid has certainly made me appreciate the power of fashion and has meant that I have refound the satisfaction of finding a new clothing gem or of simply rediscovering something in the back of my wardrobe which I had forgotten I owned. I think that for many, choosing an outfit which makes you feel confident has gained a new meaning as we all now know what it’s like to sit at home in slightly unflattering clothes with selfconfidence lacking.

Nonetheless, the legacy of Covid remains in the background of my fashion choices and the comfy clothes are never too far away, retaining their place in my wardrobe —although not necessarily at the forefront of it anymore. Those items now bring back memories of when comfortprioritising outfits became all the more socially acceptable, and still are. Covid has certainly made us increase the status of comfort as a requirement for clothing and I still often revert back to it as a safe and frankly inviting choice. So, although Covid has gotten me to experiment more with fashion – those tracksuits will never quite leave my wardrobe. Image Credit (above and below): Max Pixel//

Creative commons (CC0), Adam Niescioruk via Unsplash

The Black Sheep: On Princess Diana’s statement sweaters

Iustina Roman discusses the People’s Princess’ best sweaters because Ar Di would have loved Cherwell.

With the release of Larraín’s biopic Spencer at the end of last year, and season 4 of the Netflix-produced drama series The Crown in 2020, the life of Princess Diana has once again come under the spotlight. Known not just for a remarkable rise to fame and tragic death, Princess Diana is also well remembered for her iconic fashion sense which is appreciated even to this day.

Though she is often remembered for her most daring and glamorous looks, especially the infamous Revenge Dress, I fnd the Princess of Wales’ casual looks featuring statement sweaters even more iconic. Some have described them as ‘grandma sweaters’ or ‘campy’, but it is clear that they remain infuential and appreciated in fashion.

Several infuencers and models have come out with outfts that are very reminiscent of the athleisure wear Diana used to be spotted in while running errands offduty. Her combinations of cool sweaters and luxury handbags with a pair of cycling shorts and sporty trainers are perfectly ftting for us nowadays, as we have become accustomed to combining looking good with feeling even better as a direct result of staying home during the worst of the pandemic. Moreover, it has been observed that Princess Di may have used her garments to convey certain messages. For example, one of her most famous pieces is a red jumper by the ‘70s knitwear brand Warm & Wonderful which she frst wore in 1981, and many more times after that. The top features a pattern of sheep which are all white — except for one. This black sheep could be a metaphor for the princess herself, since she was seen as an outside member of the royal family. Since then, the brand Rowing Blazers has brought back this design with the help of its original creators, so now you too can emulate Princess Diana’s iconic look—if you have £280 to spare, that is. Another piece I am particularly fond of is a graphic sweater which was also recently reproduced by Rowing Blazers. This time, the message on the salmon-pink sweater she was pictured in while spending time with her sons is much more inyour-face. On the front, it reads “I’m a luxury…” and on the back, “few can afford”. The tongue-in-cheek design showcases the Princess of Wales’ sense of humour which she managed to express through fashion. It is perhaps for these reasons that her statement sweaters have made a comeback, gaining huge popularity among a generation born after her death. As more people seek to fnd new ways of expressing themselves, who better to look up to than the queen (or princess, rather) of making a statement through clothing herself? Without saying a word, Diana gained the sympathy and admiration of many around the globe. Though some of this popularity may be exaggerated — blame your middle-aged mum for continuing to idolise her 25 years on — it is undeniable that her style has had a long-lasting impact. Fast fashion and high-end brands alike are now focking to produce a plethora of cool sweater designs which Diana herself would have probably been proud of. Nowadays, you probably won’t have to search long for a statement knit featuring bright colours and cool images. Harry Styles himself was pictured in a sweater vest featuring Lanvin’s sheep design similar to, but

“Some have maybe not as powerful as, the Warm & Wonderful one (since the sweater vest does described them as ‘grandma not include a black sheep standing out). However, you don’t have to splurge out or consume fast fashion to fnd an iconic sweaters’ or ‘campy’, but it is sweater of your own. Popping into a charity shop or even rummagclear that they ing through your dad’s wardrobe will probably remain influential provide you with the and appreciated in perfect ‘ugly sweater’ to channel your infashion.” ner Di. It’s no wonder that entire generations have fallen in love with her classic, timeless style in a world of trends which come and go before you’ve even had time to form an opinion on them.

Exclusive report! The fashion trends to rock 2022

Ciara Beale - our roving reporter - gives Cherwell an exclusive insight into the upcoming fashion trends of 2022.

When Madi, Iustina and I introduced ourselves on the nowrebooted Cherwell fashion Instagram (@cherwellfashion – give us a cheeky follow), we each answered the question of what we would like to see left in 2021. All three of us reached the same conclusion: death to y2k fashion. Cheap pink rhinestones, Juicy Couture, low rises and high hems, and plastic beaded jewellery – don’t get me wrong, I lived for this for a while but I am more than done now. I no longer feel like a hot character in Mean Girls when my pants stick out of my trousers and though I still love my belly button piercing, it doesn’t crave the attention it once did. Vogue may disagree with us (I heard Cherwell’s the new Vogue, no?) but we’re agreed that Y2K and its Urban Outfitters manifestations are going out the door, what will we replace them with? What has fashion got in store for us in 2022? Don’t take my word for it but these are my trend predictions for 2022.

Balaclavas

Less of a prediction and more of a comment about recent developments but I am loving the current balaclava reboot. I can’t go on Instagram anymore without having someone teach me how to knit or crochet one. I took the lazy/cheapskate approach and sewed one out of leftover fleece from other sewing projects and I have to say they are very practi-cal – my neck is always warm and I am never in danger of losing my hat because it’s basically attached to me.

Asymmetry

One-shoulder garments are here to stay, no question, but I also want to see more asymmetry in other aspects. On the average night out I lose about 3.4 earrings so my vast collection is almost entirely pairless. I love matching different dangly earrings (I have a big shell one that I tend to wear with almost anything).

Eighties round 2

We’ve already had an eighties reboot in the past couple years but it’s time for it to come back around in a new guise. I’m talking big bulky-shouldered blazers, skin-tight leggings, sheer dresses, sequins, and, instead of the belt-length minis Vogue’s been raving about, PUFFBALL SKIRTS! I want geeky, over-dressed, overpatterned and gaudy colours. I do not want eighties tamed down – acid wash jeans and baggy cropped sweatshirts. I want foiled metallics and original punk scene grunge. I want my frizzy mop to be fashionable and so desirable people get perms to achieve the look. I’ll even take big chunky pearls as a replacement of childhood plastic.

Layering

The aforementioned eighties style is perfectly enacted with lots of layering (not the mini skirt over jeans early 2000s kind). If a blazer feels to informal for every day, try wearing it in place of a fleece or jacket. I like wearing a hoodie under my blazers to tone it down a bit for my trips to Common Ground (aka the daily fashion show). Sheer items can be made more accessible with tops under or over them.

Uggs?

I wasn’t aware of this resurgence until I got three reels on Instagram in a row of people styling Uggs (I promise Instagram isn’t my only source of trend wisdom) but I am personally ambivalent. Comfort is a big pro with this one but they feel quite Y2K to me and I’ve made my opinions on that matter quite clear. I just hope that if they come back with a bang it comes with sustainability and ethical production.

Very Peri

Pantone’s colour of the year for 2022 is Very Peri, a beautiful purpley-periwinkle shade which I am all for. I also want to see emerald greens, sunshine yellows, and I’m disappointed by the insistence of every recent trend report that head-to-toe white looks will be all the rage. I want colour clashes and chaos.

Make-up – all things bright and beautiful

I recently purchased a wet liner palette from Glisten Cosmetics after, you guessed it, discovering them on Instagram and I am in love. I am no make-up guru but I have been loving waking up in the morning, picking a colour and scribbling all over my eyes like (not so) grown-up face paint. I also bought some luminous green and turquoise mascaras to top it all off. I’m bored of the sophisticated black smudgy liners – bring back colour!

My housemates’ predictions

I was sat in my room with my housemates while writing this article so I thought I’d share their non-fashion-editor wisdom with you all. Ben got an Oodie covered in sloths for Christmas and is sure they’ll be all the rage soon; I’m all for it, comfort and sophistication in one, and thoroughly encourage his decision to wear it on his evening walks around Oxford (see if you can spot him). I personally have been wearing my fleece lined Christmas Crocs everywhere without shame. Nick enquires when we will be returning to office wear. I mentioned that most offices nowadays don’t require a suit and tie. He wants to work somewhere that does. Luke anticipates technical wear making a big come back and I couldn’t agree more. Though his desire for hazmat suits to become a daily look might be a stretch, I wouldn’t complain if the boiler suit revival kept growing from strength to strength. If I were to buy one item right now? A Lucy and Yak boiler suit – in the brightest colour they have.

Image Credits: (top) Thibault Penin//Unsplash. Bottom: Sharon McCutcheon//Unsplash