Fall/Holiday 2023

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s i l l A t h g i Br

FALL & HOLIDAY 2023

HOLIDAY HAPPENINGS & BAY GIFT GUIDE ON BOATS: SOLACE 415CS THE BAY'S REAPPEARING ISLANDS


e Tilghman Island Inn Roasted Oysters from th

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Easton • Oxford • St. Michaels Tilghman Island

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12 freshly shucked oysters ese 12 small slices gruyere che led mb cru , on bac 4 slices cooked es ato ½ c. diced fresh tom s 1/8 c. diced fresh jalapeno ¼ c. chopped fresh spinach (sauteed) 2 tbsp. finely diced shallots ) 1 tbsp. diced garlic (sauteed e juic on lem ed 1 tbsp. squeez y sle par sh 1 tsp. chopped fre salt & pepper to taste Tip shucking. Keep oysters cold for easier

tomatoes, 1. Combine in a small bowl: garlic, lemon spinach, jalapenos, shallots, juice, and salt & pepper. p. of the above 2. Place approximately 1 tbs . mixture in each oyster mbled bacon 3. Top each oyster with cru and gruyere. til cheese 4. Broil on top oven rack un wned, bro y is melted and slightl . tes nu approximately 4 mi e and sprinkle 5. Serve with lemon wedg of parsley.

Tilghman Island Green, Tilghman Island Inn, Recipe courtesy of Chef Tom

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CONTENTS

FALL/HOLIDAY 2023

FEATURES

17 The Bay’s Reappearing Islands Engineers apply erosion in reverse— Rachel Kester

VOLUME 53 | NUMBER 4

36 On Boats Solace 415CS—A Big, Strong, Long-Legged Thoroughbred—Capt. John Page Williams

41 Chesapeake Cocktail Apple Mule—Kate Hollinsworth

21 Holiday Happenings Around the Bay In 8 of the most charming towns in Maryland & Virginia—Niambi Davis & Rachel Kester

42 Chesapeake Almanac Cownose Rays’ Secret Migrations Revealed— Capt. John Page Williams

48 Holiday Entertaining Afloat

64 Stern Lines

COLUMNS

SPECIAL ADVERTISING SECTION

Tips from a liveaboard galley chef—Caroline Foster

5 From the Editor A Season for Gratitude—Jefferson Holland

Talk of the Bay 8 Sail Beyond Cancer Thrives with a Generous Sailor’s Gift—Will Boram

12 Oyster Gardening to Restore the Bay— Robert Gustafson

What’s the Difference?—Eric Cavell

28 Holiday Gift Guide— With special picks from CBM’s editorial staff

COVER: Queen Anne’s County Watermen’s Association Crab Basket Tree 2022. Local businesses and organizations paint baskets to raise funds for oyster restoration projects and to commemorate late watermen. Photo by Dale Hall. ABOVE: Fogg Cove in St. Michaels, featuring the photographer’s own boat. Photo by Steven Waltrich.

Fall/Holiday 2023 | ChesapeakeBayMagazine.com

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Volume 53

Number 4

EDITOR Jefferson Holland CRUISING EDITOR: Jody Argo Schroath EDITORS-AT-LARGE: Ann Levelle, John Page Williams CONTRIBUTING WRITERS: Rafael Alvarez, Kelsey Bonham, Will Boram, Niambi Davis, Ann Eichenmuller, Caroline Foster, Robert Gustafson, Mark Hendricks, Rachel Kester, Marty LeGrand, Kate Livie, MacDuff Perkins, Angus Phillips, Nancy Taylor Robson, Oliver White ART DIRECTOR Nancy Lambrides EDITORIAL DIRECTOR Meg Walburn Viviano MULTIMEDIA JOURNALIST: Cheryl Costello PRODUCTION MANAGER: Merina Navarro CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS: Jay Fleming, Dale Hall, Mark Hendricks, Mark Hergan, David Sites, Steven Waltrich

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Chesapeake Bay Magazine (ISSN0045-656X) (USPS 531-470) is published by Chesapeake Bay Media, LLC, 410 Severn Avenue, Annapolis, MD 21403. $25 per year, 6 issues annually. $7.99 per copy. Periodical postage paid at Annapolis, MD 21403 and additional offices. POSTMASTER: Please send address changes or corrections for Chesapeake Bay Magazine to 410 Severn Ave., Annapolis, MD 21403. Copyright 2023 by Chesapeake Bay Media, LLC— Printed in the U.S.A.


FROM THE EDITOR

A Season of Gratitude by Jefferson Holland

T

here was one cold winter, way back in the last century, when we were setting up household in a little waterman’s cottage in Eastport, the narrow peninsula stuck between Annapolis Harbor and Back Creek. We had just adopted Ruffian, a rowdy cross between a Labrador and a Chesapeake Bay retriever. Big and burley, Ruff bore thick black curls down his back and a tail that could cause damage when he was in a happy mood, which was most of the time. Ruff had grown up with the gang of young people who worked as instructors at the Annapolis Sailing School across the creek, and he was not so happy about being confined to our little fenced-in backyard. It took me a while to figure out why I would come home after work to find him waiting for me on the front porch, soaking wet. It turns out he was hopping over the fence, trotting down to the old McNasby Oyster Company building, diving off the dock and swimming across the mouth of Back Creek to play with his old buddies at the sailing school. One day, I came home early and Ruff was not there. I went to McNasby’s and stood on the end of the pier. The creek is nearly 200 yards across at that point. I spied a black figure over at the school and I whistled as loud as I could. The figure perked up and looked around. I whistled again and Ruffian jumped in the water and swam back to me. This was the time that my father was living aboard his sailboat at Port Annapolis Marina, up the road from the sailing school. This is a large

marina, with seven main piers and dozens of slips on each one. As the days grew shorter and colder, rather than swim back across the creek in the dark, Ruff would trot up the road, find the right pier and the right slip and hop aboard Dad’s boat and crawl into the V-berth with him. This all ended one evening when Ruff tried to swim home, but he got caught up in some skim ice that had begun to form at the mouth of the creek. Fortunately, one of the sailing school kids saw that he was in trouble, so she launched a skiff and came to his rescue. Shortly after that, we moved to a cottage on the beach two doors down from the sailing school marina. To this day, I’m convinced that Ruffian figured out how to make that move happen. There have been several generations of family dogs since Ruff’s time, but he still ranks among the most legendary. I’m grateful to have had him in my life.

He was the inspiration for “Chessie the Sea Monster.” That’s Ruff, pictured below, with his favorite “stick.” I’ve still got it. It weighs 42 pounds. I’m also grateful for having such talented writers and photographers to work with, as well as a dedicated editorial staff who make my job such a joy. In this holiday edition, we’re presenting stories about raising oysters, a program that provides sailing opportunities for cancer patients and their families, efforts to restore some of the Bay’s disappearing islands, scientists revealing the mystery of cownose ray migration, holiday happenings in some of the most charming towns around, and tips on creating the ideal holiday dinner afloat. We’re grateful to you, our readers, and we here at CBM wish you a peaceful and joyous season with family and friends. See you out on the Bay next spring!

Fall/Holiday 2023 | ChesapeakeBayMagazine.com

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TALK OF THE BAY

Sail Beyond Cancer Thrives with a Generous Sailor’s Gift by Will Boram, photos Courtesy of Sail Beyond Cancer Annapolis

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he welcome return of the Annapolis Sailboat Show in October brought crowds to downtown Annapolis with a diverse selection of new sailboats and tents packed with all the latest nautical equipment and accessories. Amid the sea of high-tech sailing gear and

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impressive vessels, one booth stood out with a story that is bigger than sailing. The Annapolis chapter of Sail Beyond Cancer was essentially born at the Sailboat Show, where CBM first met its founder in 2021. She was looking for generous sailboat owners

ChesapeakeBayMagazine.com | Fall/Holiday 2023

to donate their boats or volunteer to captain cruises for cancer patients and their families. Originally established in New England, Sail Beyond Cancer has quickly grown and found an embracing home in Annapolis. The founder, breast cancer survivor


Left: Joe Publio (second from the left) on the bow taking in the Bay with his family. Right: Joe Zebleckes donated his personal sailboat, Anneliese, a Beneteau 40, to Sail Beyond Cancer Annapolis.

Suzanne Snyder Johnson, has been able to expand the nonprofit’s presence in the city since officially launching in 2022, thanks to the support of the local sailing community and a dedicated group of volunteers. Johnson’s journey began in 2014, when she established her first local nonprofit. After enjoying great success, she decided to expand her efforts into new areas. The result is Sail Beyond Cancer, which offers cancer patients and their families or caregivers a three-hour sail with trained professionals. “Once we get the sails up and the engine off, we put the patients behind the helm and they’re able to drive the boat and have something that they’re in control of for the first time since they’ve been diagnosed,” Johnson explains. Her commitment to a mission of spreading the joys of sailing has quickly grown the organization from its chapters in Vermont and Massachusetts, leading to the birth of Sail Beyond Cancer Annapolis. The organization is propelled by the help of local volunteers, and fortunately, there’s no shortage in the tight-knit community of Annapolis. Volunteers captain both donated vessels and their own boats. One local sailor has had a profound impact on the group’s efforts since coming onboard in the early stages of the Annapolis chapter. After leading numerous sails

on the Bay, volunteer captain Joe Zebleckes became a cancer patient himself. After his own final sail with the team, he left the remarkable gesture of donating his personal sailboat, Anneliese, a Beneteau 40, to the organization. “We were totally blown away. It was a powerful message that he

really wanted this purpose to carry on,” Johnson says. Sail Beyond Cancer was able to embark on 71 sails so far this year aboard Zebleckes’s generous gift. By harnessing the healing powers of wind, water and sail, Sail Beyond Cancer has become a testament to the incredible and restorative benefits of

Fall/Holiday 2023 | ChesapeakeBayMagazine.com

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sailing. Its unwavering commitment to providing therapeutic sails to patients across the spectrum of cancer treatment has not only firmly established the organization within Annapolis, but also captured the hearts of its residents. To volunteer, donate or learn more about Sail Beyond Cancer, visit sailbeyondcancer.org. Will Boram is studying communications at Towson University. He served as a summer intern with CBM editorial staff.

Fabiola, a single mom with two daughters, perches on the bow of Anneliese in July as a respite from her battle with breast cancer. She says she is happiest when she is by the water.

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TALK OF THE BAY

Oyster Gardening to Restore the Bay by Robert Gustafson

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W

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hen the Bay’s oyster population was in its prime, oysters filtered the entire volume of water in the Chesapeake Bay—about 19 trillion gallons—in a week. Today, the much smaller number of remaining oysters take almost a year to accomplish the same task. Oysters are critical to the health of ecosystems wherever they are found and the lack of oysters is a contributing factor in the environmental decline of the Bay. But individuals all around the Bay are participating in a grassroots effort to reverse this trend. If you have access to a dock and want to help improve the health of the Bay, it’s time to consider getting involved in the interesting and rewarding hobby of oyster gardening. This year, nearly 700 volunteer oyster gardeners in Virginia working with the Chesapeake Bay Foundation (CBF) grew and returned a record 146,000 live oysters to protected reefs in the Bay. These oysters are helping reverse the Bay’s environmental decline by filtering as much as 7.3 million gallons of water daily, sequestering phosphorus and nitrogen to grow their shells, and creating habitat critical to mud crabs, fan worms, sea squirts, skilletfish, barnacles, and many other species. Oyster gardening is happening in nearly all parts of the Bay, contributing to the Chesapeake Oyster Alliance’s initiative to add 10 billion new oysters in Maryland and Virginia waters by 2025.


Left: Volunteers from the West and Rhode Riverkeeper show homeowners how to keep their oyster cage clean. Right: Each adult oyster shell has been set

The population of the iconic oyster of the Chesapeake Bay (Crassostrea virginica) is currently estimated to be less than 2 percent of its historic high. When Europeans first arrived on the Chesapeake Bay, it was quite literally full of oysters. A Swiss visitor in 1701 reported that his boat ran aground on an oyster reef in Kings Creek near Williamsburg, forcing him to wait several hours for the tide to come in before he was able to proceed. Oyster reefs were a hazard to navigation in the Bay as late as the Civil War. By the late 1800s most of the vertical reefs had been knocked down by oyster dredgers and had been transformed into much flatter oyster beds. 1884 was the high-water mark for the Bay’s oyster harvest, with a total of 15,000,000 bushels harvested. Within five years, the harvest had fallen by a third. Conservation was not practiced. There were no minimum size limits and shells were not commonly returned to the Bay to help future generations of oysters thrive. Agricultural runoff and pollution from cities and towns took a growing toll on oysters as well. In the second half of the 20th century, a combination of persistent harvesting and disease sent the Bay’s oyster numbers into a tailspin. Oyster gardening got its start in the 1990s as wild oyster harvests plunged and the fate of the oyster in the Bay was uncertain. Research at the Virginia Institute of Marine Science

NANCY LAMBRIDES

with dozens of tiny spat, or baby oysters.

and initiatives by groups including the Chesapeake Bay Foundation and the Tidewater Oyster Gardeners Association (TOGA) linked the available science with the public’s interest in taking action to save the Bay. The result was oyster gardening. The concept is simple. Recruit individuals, businesses and even condo associations to hang cages of small, young oysters off their docks or

the docks of friends or even municipal marinas. After a year, the grown oysters are removed from the cages and placed on protected reefs in the Bay to help clean the water and serve as spawning stock and cultch to encourage further population growth. While each individual gardener grows a limited number of oysters, the volume of participants means that the

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TURNIP GREEN AND BAYSIDE OYSTER GRATIN By Robert Gustafson Winter on Virginia’s Eastern Shore is liable to arrive with full force anytime after Christmas. You know your family is in its frigid grip when the cold wind ripping off the Chesapeake makes your house hum and the flames in the fireplace flicker with the downdraft of the strongest gusts. When ice starts to reach out into the Bay and even black ducks won’t fly it’s time to stay inside together and make a bubbling oyster gratin. Ingredients 2 pounds turnip greens (a very large bunch), de-stemmed and well-rinsed 1 quart water 2 cloves garlic, minced 4 tablespoons olive oil—3 tablespoon for sautéing and 1 tablespoon for topping 2 tablespoons flour 1/2 teaspoon salt, optional (or less/none if you use saltier seaside oysters) Pinch of ground cardamom 18 large bayside oysters, shucked and roughly chopped, with liquor reserved and decanted of grit 1/2 cup cream 1/4 cup coarse bread crumbs, homemade or panko Directions 1. Preheat oven to 400 degrees. 2. Bring the water to a boil in a medium pot. Add the turnip greens a handful at a time and simmer, covered, until wilted and tender, about 10 minutes. Drain in a colander, squeeze out excess liquid, chop coarsely, and set aside. 3. In a medium non-stick skillet sauté garlic in 3 tablespoons of olive oil over medium heat, stirring frequently. When translucent (but not at all browned), about 4 minutes, add turnip greens and sauté stirring constantly for about 2 minutes over medium heat to coat with oil and heat. Sprinkle with flour, cardamom, salt (if using) and continue to stir for a minute to combine the ingredients. 4. Add oyster liquor and cream. You want about 1 3/4 cups of total liquid (if you are short add some clam broth or water). Stir in chopped oysters. Bring to a simmer to thicken, about 3 minutes. 5. Transfer to a shallow one quart baking dish, sprinkle with the bread crumbs then dribble with the remaining 1 tablespoon of olive oil. Bake uncovered at 400 degrees for 20 minutes until bubbling and the bread crumbs are beginning to lightly brown. Serve with crusty bread. Leftover gratin will keep in the refrigerator for up to two days and improve in flavor. It will not freeze successfully.

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cumulative harvest can have an impact. Gardeners are encouraged to grow oysters year after year. General requirements for successful oyster gardening include: • Salinity: Oysters prefer water with a salinity of at least 10 parts per thousand, but can survive for a time in water with as low as 3 parts per thousand. Oysters generally cannot be grown north of the Patapsco River or in the upper reaches of the Bay’s tributaries (for example north of the Route 301 bridge over the Potomac River). Practically, if crabs, naturally occurring oysters, jellyfish and barnacles grow in your water, you are a candidate for oyster gardening. • Water Depth: The water off the dock must have a minimum depth of one foot at the very lowest tide. Oysters grow best when they stay submerged and may be killed if they are exposed to freezing air (though they can survive being frozen in a solid block of ice). Several nonprofits have programs to make it easy for individuals to get started in oyster gardening. Marylanders Grow Oysters is a program administered by the Maryland Department of Natural Resources and the Oyster Recovery Project. The Chesapeake Bay Foundation (CBF) has well established programs in both Maryland and Virginia and the Tidewater Oyster Gardeners Association has extensive experience assisting Virginia gardeners. CBF programs require participants to attend a training session (see links below). You will leave the training with 1,000 to 2,000 oyster spat (baby oysters), cages or floats to hold the oysters, and the knowledge to begin your garden. Cages are filled with baby oysters in mesh bags and hung from a dock. After about nine months, the one- to


two-inch oysters are returned to CBF at a community Oyster Roundup. CBF places the oysters on sanctuary reefs where their increased size makes them much less vulnerable to predators. Dedicated oyster gardeners also pick up new spat at the Roundups so they can start the cycle over again. The time commitment to garden oysters is small. In warm months, cages need to be cleaned with a hose and brush at least once every two weeks to ensure that there is adequate water flow around the oysters. During the months when oysters are feeding, roughly April through November, it helps to shake or tumble the cages every few days so the spats’ shells do not grow around the wire, and so that the oyster’s waste, called pseudofeces, washes away.

Gardeners also periodically redistribute the growing oysters into additional cages so they have adequate space. In the winter, oyster gardeners monitor the cages to ensure that ice and storms do not cause damage and that the oysters are never exposed to freezing air. Based on the simple proposition that growing oysters can help save the Bay, oyster gardening empowers individuals and communities to contribute in a direct and meaningful way to the restoration of the body of water we all love. Success lies in numbers and as more people embrace this interesting, educational, and rewarding hobby, we can look forward to a healthier and more vibrant Chesapeake Bay for future generations.

For more information about oyster gardening, visit the following sites: Maryland • oysterrecovery.org/marylandersgrow-oysters • cbf.org/how-we-save-the-bay/ programs-initiatives/maryland/ oyster-restoration/oyster-gardening Virginia • cbf.org/how-we-save-the-bay/ programs-initiatives/virginia/oysterrestoration/oyster-gardening • oystergardener.org/how-to-start Robert "Gus" Gustafson lives on the Eastern Shore of Virginia by way of Chicago, Harvard University and a career on Capitol Hill. In his spare time, he coaches Broadwater track and field teams and cultivates heirloom vegetables from the Chesapeake region.

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The Bay’s Reappearing

ISLANDS BY R ACHEL KESTER

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he large piles of mud and silt are rather unsightly. Dug from channels around the Chesapeake Bay, the glop might seem useless; but here it’s a valuable treasure that could save the Bay’s vanishing islands. Over the past century, several Bay islands have slowly eroded both to natural causes and aggravated climate change. But while the disappearance of one or two might not seem that alarming, it can be. These islands serve as both vital wildlife habitats and barriers protecting coastal areas from storms. Thanks to a new revitalization project though, there’s hope that two of the Bay’s disappearing islands will reappear.

Engineers apply erosion in reverse

The Mid-Chesapeake Bay Island Ecosystem Restoration Project is a joint effort between the U.S. Army Corps of Engineers (USACE), Maryland Port Administration and the Baltimore District & Maryland Department of Transportation to rebuild these essential Bay components. The project has been brewing since 2009 and is designed to restore Barren and James islands. Construction was officially authorized in 2014. “In the last 150 years it has been estimated that 10,500 acres of this type of island habitat have been lost in the middle-eastern portion of Chesapeake Bay due to erosion and climate change,” says Cynthia Mitchell, a USACE Baltimore District

spokesperson. “By restoring and expanding it, it will rebuild the shoreline and create a haven for wildlife. It will also provide direct benefits of improved health, richness and sustainability to aquatic and wildlife species and indirect benefits of navigational safety and education.” In September 2022, a $43.1 million contract was awarded to the U.S. Army Corps of Engineers for the restoration. The funds, made possible by the Bipartisan Infrastructure Law, will restore up to 2,072 acres on James Island and 72 acres on Barren Island. The projects should be completed by 2067 at an estimated total cost of $4 billion. “We are very happy to be working on this exciting project with our great

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COURTESY OF U.S. ARMY CORPS OF ENGINEERS

partners at the Army Corps of Engineers,” says Richard Scher of the Maryland Port Administration - Port of Baltimore. “Rebuilding James and Barren Islands is an environmental and commerce win-win.” Situated along Maryland’s Eastern Shore near Upper Hooper Island, Barren Island was popular farming and hunting grounds until around the early 1900s when significant erosion began. By 1916, most families had left, but hunting remained popular. Eventually, humans left the island for good, and in the early 2000s a hunting lodge, one of the last remaining structures, was swept away. The island

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has lost 42 acres over the past two decades alone. James Island, a short boat ride north of Barren Island toward Little Choptank River, was once a vast 1,300 acres in the mid-1800s. The islands share a similar story. By 1910, most families (primarily farmers) were gone, but it wasn’t completely abandoned. In 1916, local Clement Henry released imported Sika deer on the island in an attempt to make the spot a hunting destination. While his wish did come true, nature slowly reclaimed James Island until it was only 550 acres by the 1990s and eventually deserted.

Below: An aerial shot of Barren Island taken in September 2023. The island is losing up to 3 to 4 feet each year due to erosion.

While the Bay has slowly devoured these islands, engineers are planning to use dredged material to reverse the process. Dredging is a common practice around the Bay, where silt washed from the shores by wind and wave action tends to fill up the channels. This is especially true in


COURTESY OF U.S. ARMY CORPS OF ENGINEERS

Baltimore Harbor, where channel depths and widths need to be maintained for safe ship navigation. “Dredging will keep happening because channels need to keep being dug,” says Jackie Specht, The Nature Conservancy’s Resilient Coasts Program Director for Washington, D.C. and Maryland. “Rather than just putting the material in storage on land it’s used instead to create habitats and marshes across the Bay.” The USACE dredges around five million cubic yards each year from these channels and anchorages— material that needs to be disposed of in an eco-friendly way. “This project implements a long-term strategy for

providing viable placement alternatives to meet the dredging needs of the Port of Baltimore while maximizing the use of dredged materials as a beneficial resource,” says Mitchell. To dredge an area, a hydraulic dredging system or mechanical dipper digs into sea beds to collect sediment, which is later transported by barge to the desired island. The material is then dumped, filled in and later drained out and sculpted. It’s an intricate process but one that has lasting results as it forms the islands into a stronger land mass. For James and Barren islands, the dredged material will come from a

Stone sills and breakwaters are currently being built around Barren Island. The structures help protect the restoration area from strong waves and wind.

few different areas. James Island will receive sediment from federal navigation channels that serve as Port of Baltimore approach channels. These likely include Swan Point Channel, Brewerton Channel and Tolchester Channel. Barren Island will get its material from local small federal navigation channels with potential sources being Upper Fall/Holiday 2023 | ChesapeakeBayMagazine.com

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Hooper Island’s Back Creek and the Honga and Tar Bay channels. Barren Island is the project’s current focus and will be restored to its original footprint. Once completed, up to 83 acres of wetlands and 1,325 acres of nearby seagrass beds will be established. The island’s first reconstruction phase began earlier this year and involves installing breakwaters and stone sills to contain the dredged material. The process is estimated to last until October 2024. Depending on how things go, dredged material might also start being added next year. One of the biggest hurdles will be safely transporting equipment and supplies to the land. “It’s a complex process due to the remote nature of the project and poses an added challenge,” Mitchell says. James Island won’t receive attention until 2030 and will undergo a much more extensive rebuild. Once complete, the island will be 2,100 acres—800 acres bigger than its original size. It will be a mixture of upland and wetland habitats. Both islands are being designed with sea level rise in mind and should last for at least 50 years. Rachel Kester is a Virginia-based freelance writer who covers topics ranging from the environment to culture.

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ChesapeakeBayMagazine.com | Fall/Holiday 2023


Holiday Happenings AROUND THE BAY BY NIAMBI DAVIS AND R ACHEL KESTER

C

hristmas on the Chesapeake Bay is a magical mix of tradition, culture, and community pride—it’s oyster shell ornaments, crab basket trees, and lighted boat parades. It’s small-town celebrations, riverwalks and lighted Christmas trees, the creativity of local artisans, and the army of tireless elves who make it happen. Here’s a sample of where to go and what to see on the Bay this holiday season.

Chestertown, Maryland WHAT TO DO On December 2–3 the very Victorian Dickens of a Christmas returns to downtown Chestertown for its sixth year of eating, drinking, and merriment. On Friday, enjoy oysters around the bonfire with live music, including jazz with the Kent County High School Band, selections from the Garnett Elementary Chorus and River Voices, and topped off by a jam session with Dell Foxx Company. On Saturday, get ready to “Run Like the Dickens” in a 5k run from High Street to the Chestertown Rail Trail. Support your

local farmer, baker, and artisan—buy produce, baked goods, and handcrafted gifts at the Farmers Market. When it’s time to get off your feet, take a carriage ride or have a beer around the bonfire. There’s more music and laughter on the small stage—listen to the O’McPub Band, Jimi Kinstle’s One Man Christmas Carol, and laugh out loud with Comedy by Robert Mac. At Fountain Park, Santa welcomes kids of all ages to his open house. While you’re there, take your little ones to the Stepne Station for children’s activities. Wind down the weekend’s revelry with a delicious Holiday Tea and a house tour on historic Water Street. But don’t miss the event’s epic finale with music by the Baltimore Pipe Band and American Rogues.

Chestertown, MD

annual Holiday Show and Sale that runs through December 24. It’s time well spent, the one-of-a-kind handmade selections include ornaments, wreaths, fine art, ceramic, pottery and photography. There’s always good eating in Chestertown—from soul food to seafood, fine dining, wine, sushi, and tapas, it’s a small town with big tastes.

WHERE TO STAY WHERE TO SHOP While you’re in town, take time to visit Chestertown RiverArts during its

There are literally dozens of charming historic inns and B&Bs to accommodate you in and around Fall/Holiday 2023 | ChesapeakeBayMagazine.com

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Oxford, Maryland WHAT TO DO For Oxford, often called the prettiest tiny town on the Chesapeake, size doesn’t matter when it comes to grand holiday celebrations. From December 1–3, the historic port town pulls out all the stops for Christmas on the Creek, Oxford’s unique celebration of the most wonderful time of year.

Oxford, MD 22

ChesapeakeBayMagazine.com | Fall/Holiday 2023

WHERE TO SHOP Festive holiday weekends call for shopping. Pick up a one-of-a-kind gift for someone (or yourself) at one of the town’s unique shops. Along the way, you just might find hot chocolate, gift baskets, and raffles to sweeten your efforts. At Vintage Treasures and Trade, discover a huge collection of antiques, furniture, classic designer wear, jewelry, and artwork. Visit the Treasure Chest for art and gifts related to the Eastern Shore and the Chesapeake Bay. Browse the collection at Mystery Loves Company, the fullservice bookstore specializing in mysteries, books with nautical and Eastern Shore themes, those written by local authors, and gift items. Grab some carryout at the Oxford Deli for homemade salads, soups, and sandwiches.

Solomons, MD

JOHN SANTIC

Chestertown, like the White Swan Tavern, which has been a familiar landmark in Chestertown since its pre-Revolutionary War days. Conveniently located in the center of downtown Chestertown, within walking distance of the shops and restaurants, the Chester River waterfront, and the weekly Saturday farmer's market, the White Swan offers—just as it has since the 18th century—“a comfortable... Public House... with every attention given to render comfort and pleasure to such as favor it with their patronage.”

Get your wish list ready and start the weekend outside Friday Vintage Treasures and Trade, where an oversized mailbox will delight children mailing their letters to Santa. Just before sunset on Saturday, make your way to the town park to await Santa’s arrival on a fire truck. There’ll be cookies, caroling, and lots of good cheer when he arrives to light the town's Christmas tree. In front of Pope’s Tavern, watch Christmas on the Creek come to life in a simultaneous spectacular display of Christmas colors when lights on the town dock and more than 60 private docks light up the town all at once.

Homemade pies and a wine tasting are rumored to be in the works for that weekend. For coffee and pastries, check out the Oxford Cafe. Or if a sit-down dining experience is more to your liking, visit Pope’s Tavern and Anthony’s for authentic homemade pasta and Italian cuisine. At the historic Robert Morris Inn, enjoy breakfast, lunch, or dinner. Capsize, located on Town Creek, is open for the season with a brandnew steakhouse menu. At Doc’s Sunset Grill, enjoy casual cuisine with a spectacular view of the Tred Avon. Even in winter, Oxford is a pretty town.

Solomons, Maryland WHAT TO DO If waterside celebrations appeal to your sense of holiday spirit, spend a day (or a weekend) in Solomons, where the Patuxent River meets the Chesapeake Bay. On December 9, the town lights up for A Nautical Christmas, the theme of its 42nd annual Christmas Walk and the island’s boat parade. Stroll along the RiverWalk, lit with thousands of white lights, and stop by the gazebo to offer Merry Christmas greetings to Santa. Watch the parade of more than 30 decorated sail and


powerboats as they make their way up to Back Creek, around the island, and back to the RiverWalk.

WHERE TO SHOP

PAT VENTURINO

Although Solomons has more restaurants than shops, on Dec. 9 a one-day village of more than 30 vendors joins the town’s year-round boutiques and stores near the parking lot of the Tiki Bar and Grill. Visit the village and the brick-and-mortar businesses. Browse The Blue Shell for candles, fashion accessories, and home fragrances, or the Equinox for products for the mind, body, and spirit. Shop Carmen’s Galley for art, jewelry, handmade pottery, and sculptures. At Grandmother’s Antiques, shop for ornaments, collectibles, and that one item that brings back memories of years gone by. If you or someone you know loves marine life, fossils, and the history of the Patuxent and the Chesapeake Bay, visit the Calvert Marine Museum and Gift Shop. With 11 restaurants in Solomons, there’s an eating establishment to satisfy almost any food craving—from ribs and seafood to Italian, sushi, and many selections in between. Walk around town and see what appeals to your tastebuds.

Havre de Grace, MD

WHERE TO STAY In case another day or two in Solomons is warranted, book a stay on the waterfront at the Solomons Victorian Inn, the Back Creek Inn, or the Blue Heron Bed and Breakfast.

Havre de Grace, Maryland

Mount Vernon, VA

WHAT TO DO Magical properly describes the transformation of Havre de Grace into a holiday wonderland—the thousands of lights, the lighthouse decorated with red ribbon next to an illuminated 25-foot Christmas tree, and lighted boats that have come to dock yearround on the river. Start your Christmas fun on Friday, December 1 with the Holly Jolly Christmas Parade, a festive procession of floats and entertainment that ends with a tree lit by Santa Claus and the Mayor of Havre de Grace. If you’re a music lover, the town’s Star Center hosts a Nat King Cole tribute on December 9, a Big Band tribute on December 10, and a Carpenters Tribute Christmas show on December 16. On December 8 and 16 bring the kids to Santa Land for story time, cookies and hot chocolate, then take a horse-drawn carriage around town. Havre de Grace prides itself on its eclectic collection of shops and local businesses. On those two two days, the stores stay stay open late; if you’re looking for unique gifts, browse the shops for original art, antiques, crystals, clothing, books, turntables, and vinyl. And in this, the “decoy capital of the world,”

don’t forget to explore the selection of decorative carvings.

WHERE TO SHOP As much as Havre de Grace prides itself on its one-of-a-kind shops, the same holds true for its independently owned eating establishments. Rather than one, the town recommends them all. From restaurants serving Cajun fare to waterfront dining, seafood, burgers, and retro breakfasts, there’s something for every taste in town.

WHERE TO STAY Great Wolf Lodge Perryville, Maryland For an immersive holiday experience with lots of wintertime fun, reserve a space for your “pack” at Great Wolf Lodge. Inside the Globes at Snowland, you’ll enjoy your own private winter wonderland. There’ll be hot cocoa, cookie-making, and games. Try your hand at Snowland Bingo and Trivia, or test your skills at ring toss or a scavenger hunt. With yoga, discover your flexibility or try out your best moves at the Frosty Fest Family Dance Party. When Santa arrives, reveal your Christmas wish to the Big Man or drop it in the Letters to Santa mailbox for him to read later. 

Fall/Holiday 2023 | ChesapeakeBayMagazine.com

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GEORGE WASHINGTON’S EGG NOG This is a riff on a traditional recipe for a holiday treat like one Washington enjoyed serving his many guests at Mt. Vernon, incorporating the rye whiskey he distilled on his plantation. Ingredients: 1 qt. whipping cream

Enjoy Snowland, but don’t forget the Waterpark at Great Wolf Lodge. For toddlers to adults, the park has passes, trails, coves, and activities to discover and explore. And there’s no winter unless you want it - the temperature of the indoor water park is kept at a warm 84 degrees all year long.

1 qt. milk 12 eggs, separated

Mount Vernon, Virginia

½ cup sugar

WHAT TO DO

1 pt. brandy

Time travel to an 18th-century Christmas at George Washington’s Mount Vernon. Nestled along the Potomac River, the first president’s former home offers plenty of activities for all ages. On November 24–25 and December 1–2, 8–9 and 17, a candlelight tour will be available of the mansion’s interior and grounds. A dazzling fireworks show will be held here as well on December 15 and 16. The estate will also host Aladdin the Camel from November 26 to January 6. The animal pays homage to a camel who reportedly visited the property in 1787. On select days, other holiday activities will take place, including chocolate-making demonstrations, holiday fifing and kids' winter crafts. Be sure to stop by Half Crown Bakery during your trip for some scrumptious gingerbread. Another intriguing destination is the Pope-Leighey House. Built by famed architect Frank Lloyd Wright, the house showcases stunning examples of mid-century architecture and decor. On December 1–2, 8–9 and 15–16, nighttime holiday tours will be held. Tickets are needed and can be bought in advance.

½ pint rye whiskey ½ pint Jamaica rum ¼ pint sherry Directions: •

Mix all the liquor in a large bowl

Separate yolks and whites of 12 eggs

Add sugar to the yolks, beat well

Add milk and cream, beating gently

Beat egg whites until stiff and fold slowly into the cream mixture

Blend the egg and cream mixture into the liquor bowl

Let set in cool place for several days

Serve chilled, sprinkled with freshly ground nutmeg.

The original recipe includes the instruction to “taste frequently,” as we’re certain George would have done. After all, the one tooth that wasn’t wooden was a sweet

BOYARKINAMARINA

one! Happy holidays!

WHERE TO SHOP Don’t miss the Shops at Mount Vernon, where you’ll find a wide spectrum of distinctive items ranging from heirloom seeds (most collected from the estate’s gardens) to porcelain

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ChesapeakeBayMagazine.com | Fall/Holiday 2023


Town Hill. Apart from the parade, the park will have fire pits, food and gift vendors and Santa photoshoot opportunities.

WHERE TO SHOP

Colonial Beach , VA

ornaments, and plenty more. Many exclusive products are also available, like freshly milled cornmeal from the estate’s gristmill and hand-forged blacksmith nails made on-site.

WHERE TO STAY Hampton Inn & Suites Fort Belvoir Alexandria South is one of the closest accommodations to the historic estate. The contemporary hotel offers free parking and breakfast. Hotel Indigo is a 20-minute drive away, but the charming nautical-themed hotel is well worth the trip. Located in Old Town Alexandria, it has views of the Potomac River and an illuminated patio where guests can enjoy a warm evening drink.

Colonial Beach, Virginia WHAT TO DO Colonial Beach is quiet seaside town famous for its rich history and iconic 19th-century architecture, though it’s an overlooked holiday destination. To kick off the season, a lighted boat parade will set sail at dusk on November 25. The decorated vessels will float down the bordering Potomac River to Monroe Bay. On December 2, Santa's Wonderland & Winter Festival Parade will be held from 12:30–5 p.m. in

For wine connoisseurs, a stop at Monroe Bay Winery is a must. Established along Monroe Bay, delectable wines and hard apple ciders are available for purchase. For the shoppers, Peddlers Market contains over 90 small boutiques that house everything from antique books to fine art. Hawthorne Mercantile has a variety of goods that will make perfect gifts, including stylish clothing, candles, toys and coffee mugs.

vibrant during the holidays with its numerous festivities. On December 9, a holiday home tour will take place. From 1–5 p.m., guests can explore a handful of local residences to appreciate their unique architecture and interior design alongside holiday decor. Christmas at Cokesbury will feature the Orchestra of the Eastern Shore on December 9 at 2 p.m. Hosted at Cokesbury Church, listeners will be treated to a melange of carols and Handel’s Hallelujah Chorus.

WHERE TO STAY

WHERE TO SHOP

Situated within a 1905 Victorian Home, Tides Inn Bed & Breakfast has four spacious suites and one bedroom. Weekend stays include a delicious breakfast from its Tides Inn Market. Riverview Inn will transport you to the 1950s with its retro ambiance. The building (hard to miss with its flashy turquoise and red exterior) is a short walk from the beach and nearby restaurants.

Onanacock is packed with small businesses. One is the Red Queen Gallery. Filled with paintings, sculptures, pottery and soaps, the store is a charming place to browse. Founded in 1953, C.D. Marsh Jewelers designs handcrafted jewelry, and is best known for making customizable Chesapeake Bay Bracelets, which come in sterling silver, 10K gold or 14K gold options. 

Onanacock, Virginia WHAT TO DO For a laid-back holiday getaway, Onanacock is the place to be. The small coastal town is rich in culture and is a great spot for wildlife viewing and boating year-round. Its charm becomes especially

Onanacock, VA

Fall/Holiday 2023 | ChesapeakeBayMagazine.com

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As the town’s first bed and breakfast, The Spinning Wheel is a quaint stay that’s also a certified green lodging. There is one pet-friendly room and amenities include breakfast, evening drinks and bicycles.

Virginia Beach The Holiday Artisan Market at Historic Onanacock School will take place December 9 from 10 a.m. to 3 p.m. Visitors can tour resident art studios (once old classrooms) and additional vendors in the Main Gallery in search of distinctive holiday gifts.

WHERE TO STAY Constructed in 1907, the Charlotte is an elegant oasis featuring eight beautifully decorated rooms. This cozy boutique hotel also has a restaurant and bar.

WHAT TO DO While it might be a lively summer destination, Virginia Beach still flourishes during the winter. Starting November 16 at 5:30 p.m., the city’s boardwalk transforms into a holiday light extravaganza. Cars can drive down the boardwalk through lighted archways to view quirky light formations (many of which are nautical-themed) while listening to a specially synchronized holiday music radio channel. Tickets are required. On December 10, head to Mount Trashmore Park for Chabad’s annual giant menorah lighting. The public celebration will last from 4:30–6 p.m. and include plenty of other festive fun, like music and fresh latkes. To escape the chilly ocean breezes, stop by Sandler Center for the Performing Arts to enjoy numerous seasonal performances, including NUTCRACKER! Magical Christmas Ballet!, A Classical Christmas, and Vienna Boys Choir– Christmas in Vienna.

The Shops at Hilltop is home to many well-known brands alongside some local favorites. The mall also provides horse-drawn carriage rides for shoppers to enjoy. To load up on holiday decor, stop by Christmas Mouse, where hundreds of interesting ornaments are for sale. There are also rare collectibles, like Byers’ Choice Christmas Carolers and Jim Shore figurines.

WHERE TO STAY Historic Cavalier Hotel & Beach Club is a regional gem. First opened in the 1920s, the restored Jazz Age hotel is a luxurious oasis with many rooms having Atlantic Ocean views. Guests can enjoy a meal in one of its restaurants or stop by its in-house bourbon distillery for a tour or tasting. Barclay Cottage Bed and Breakfast is one of the oldest lodgings in the area. Designed with a tranquil maritime vibe, the bed and breakfast is two blocks from the oceanfront and provides guests with a two-course breakfast during their stay. There’s even an on-site spa. Niambi Davis was raised on the Eastern Shore of Maryland and takes every opportunity to share her love of the Land of Pleasant Living through words and pictures. Rachel Kester is a Virginia-based freelance writer who covers topics ranging from the environment to culture.

WHERE TO SHOP

Conservation Framing • Maps Shadowboxes • Diplomas Giclee Printing • Photo Restoration Photo to Canvas • Nautical Charts 410.956.7278

209 Chinquapin Rd•Suite 101•Annapolis HOURS: M-F 10-6 & SAT 10-4 WimseyCoveFramingAnnapolis.com 26

ChesapeakeBayMagazine.com | Fall/Holiday 2023

The Virginia Beach Christmas Market, held November 24–26 at the Virginia Beach Convention Center, will feature over 175 vendors selling items such as nature photographs, pet holiday outfits and mouthwatering confections.

Virginia Beach, VA


Where Winter Adventure Begins

save the date

Chocolate Binge Festival December 3 • Downtown Annapolis

Midnight Madness December 7, 14, 21 • Downtown Annapolis

Eastport Yacht Club Lights Parade December 9 • City Dock

Military Bowl December 27 • Navy-Marine Corps Stadium

NYE Fireworks December 31 • Downtown Annapolis

Lights on the Bay Through January 1 • Sandy Point State Park

Holiday Shopping Downtown, Arundel Mills, Westfield Annapolis, Annapolis Town Center & beyond

Ice Skating

Annapolis Town Center, Quiet Waters Park & more

plan today at

WinterInAnnapolis.com * Ice skating dates/hours vary. Events subject to change without notice, contact host for updates. Fall/Holiday 2023 | ChesapeakeBayMagazine.com

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HOLIDAY GIFTGUIDE

SPECIAL ADVERTISING SECTION

Gifts Worth Giving ‘Tis better to give than to receive—but it takes a lot more thought! That’s why we’ve compiled this helpful catalog of items to consider giving as holiday presents to your special list of boating family and friends. Following the suggestions provided by our selected advertisers, you’ll find gift tips compiled by our own CBM editorial staff, any of which will be sure to help make the season a joyful one.

Dive into the Holidays with ugo wear's Geo Collection The festive season is here, and what's a better gift than the promise of adventure? Introducing ugo wear's Geo Collection: the epitome of style and functionality for the modern wanderer. Whether it's a tropical monsoon or a winter wonderland, these waterproof products promise to keep your belongings safe, dry, and stylish. Crafted with precision, the Geo Collection is more than just a protection—it's a statement. This holiday, give the gift of unbeatable quality and let your loved ones embrace their adventures with confidence. Dive into the festivities with ugo wear. The world is waiting, and with the Geo Collection, you're always prepared. Visit ugowear.com.

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ChesapeakeBayMagazine.com | Fall/Holiday 2023

Annapolis School of Seamanship Give the gift of nautical know-how! Gift cards are personalized with names of sender and recipient. Choose a specific course or dollar amount to redeem for a class of their choosing. Purchase online or call the office at 410-263-8848. annapolisschoolofseamanship.com

junedays Medium Caddy It's versatile and functional, and packed with storage and organizational options to make your life easier. Designed to hold all your essentials from picnic goods to sunscreen, first aid and supplies, it’s the perfect solution for keeping everything in one place and at close reach. Ideal for boating, docktails, tailgating, beach going, road trips and so much more. Collapses for easy storage. Offered in 4 colors, this caddy helps you stay visually organized and makes finding what you need a breeze. Priced at $48.00, this item was a big hit at the Newport and Annapolis Boat Shows. Come check us out at junedays.com for the full collection.


HOLIDAY GIFT GUIDE Electronic Marine of Annapolis Favorite Holiday Gift Discover the forefront of beacon technology with Electronic Marine of Annapolis' latest offering—the ACR ResQLink AIS Personal Locator Beacon (PLB). This exceptional device is at the cutting edge of technological progress, expertly blending satellite and local transponders. The ResQLink AIS elevates PLB technology to new heights with its groundbreaking features. It introduces the Automatic Identification System (AIS) functionality, enhancing your ability to broadcast your location to nearby vessels. The integration of Return Link Service (RLS) technology ensures your distress signals are not only transmitted but also acknowledged. Furthermore, the Near Field Communication (NFC) capability simplifies activation, providing user-friendliness even in highpressure situations. As a pivotal advancement in PLB technology, the ResQLink AIS is the perfect gift for those who prioritize safety and appreciate innovation. This holiday season, give the gift of cutting-edge security. electronicmarine.com

Jackie Gallagher Design In 2012 Jackie Gallagher, wife and mother of one, wanted to create something of her own. With her flair for fashion and design, she began her jewelry line with the intent to offer what so many woman search for—beautiful jewelry at a sensible price! Each piece of jewelry is designed and handcrafted using all-natural handpicked materials. “Designing jewelry that I love to wear is my passion,” Jackie says. “Jewelry should be art that women wear every day. I am proud to say that we offer many different varieties of jewelry. All of the pieces are created using local sea glass, sterling and fine silver, leather, pearls or gem stones. jackiegallagherdesigns.square.site

SPECIAL ADVERTISING SECTION

Sunchill's Jellynet Float nettle-free with the Sunchill! The best way to float the day away is now a nettle-beater with the new Jellynet. Stay cool and protected all summer! The Sunchill inflates fast (90 seconds), packs down small (20x12x10in.) and comes with a dual-action pump, drink holders, 3 stainless D-rings and a 5-year warranty. The Sunchill is built for fun, so there is no weight limit. Dogs of all sizes are welcome (any dog damage is covered by our 5-year warranty), and it’s totally okay to cannonball into it! Ships for free from the Sunchill workshop in Vero Beach, Florida. Check out the many new colors options available at sunchill.com. Order with code CBM23 for your free Jellynet, with purchase of any size Sunchill.

Wylder Hotel Tilghman Island

During the holiday season, where love, 25 Boat Slips 50 H joy, and giving Heated Saltwater Pool Fir abound, there's no better way to express your affection than through a Wylder Hotel gift certificate. This charming retreat on Tilghman Island on Maryland’s Eastern Shore epitomizes a romantic getaway, nestled along the serene Chesapeake Bay, offering respite from the daily hustle and bustle. The Wylder’s calendar is brimming with captivating activities, from enchanting magician shows and stylish speakeasy nights to the rhythms of live music, engaging oyster-shucking Fresh Local Seafood & Craft Cocktails demonstrations and enlightening cooking demos to keep you Boat Docks throughout for Free while the Eating entertained season. Indulge in exquisite winepaired dinners to ensure your stay is truly memorable. The Wylder Hotel isn’t just about providing a place to rest; it's about crafting indelible memories. Join them this winter for a delightful array of activities and entertainment, all under one cozy roof. wylderhotels.com

Fall/Holiday 2023 | ChesapeakeBayMagazine.com

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HOLIDAY GIFT GUIDE For Nancy, Art Director I love looking at our beautiful Chesapeake Bay map, engraved in wood, from Fire & Pine. This unique map adds beauty to any room and is available in six colors, all artwork designed and 100% made in the small town of Ridgeland, South Carolina from their pine trees. These maps come in eight sizes (some more narrowly proportioned), and I found one that fits perfectly in my kitchen dining area. They make amazing gifts and there are maps of many U.S. states, cities, and bodies of water also available (even custom orders of your own logo or drawing). We get so many compliments on our Chesapeake Bay engraved map. Available from Fire & Pine for $53 to $999 (depending on size). fireandpine.com

CHESAPEAKE BAY MAGAZINE

Give the gift that will keep on giving all year long—a gift subscription to Chesapeake Bay Magazine. Your loved ones will receive four quarterly issues plus two special editions, each one packed with engaging articles on how to best appreciate all that the Bay has to offer, created by the Bay’s finest writers and photographers and curated by a dedicated and experienced editorial staff. Subscribers also receive weekly email updates, including the Wednesday Bay Bulletin covering newsworthy issues impacting the Chesapeake region as well as the Friday Weekend edition featuring boating lifestyle stories. A gift subscription to Chesapeake Bay Magazine makes the perfect stocking stuffer. checkout.subscriptiongenius. com/chesapeakeboating.net/ 2023

BOATING ISSUE 2023 ChesapeakeBayMagazine.com

U.S. $7.99

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Boating Issue

PRO PICKS: WHAT’S TRENDING At the Boat Shows

STUFFED TO THE GILLS

With all the shows' can't-miss boats

CAPT. JOHN SMITH'S REVENGE A chef serves up stingray wings

ChesapeakeBayMagazine.com | Fall/Holiday 2023

EDITOR'S PICKS

For Meg, Editorial Director My go-to gift for a Chesapeake Bay enthusiast (or newcomer) is a set of classic Carvel Hall-style crab knives. Originating in Crisfield, Maryland, the “crab capital of the world,” these weighty stainless steel knives are small and pointy enough to dig out every morsel of crabmeat when you’re sitting around a table with family and friends. Carvel Hall operated in Crisfield from 1920 until 1995. Their original molds were saved and are still produced today, with beautiful detail on the handle. Just take care not to clear away your messy newspaper post-crab feast with these iconic knives still inside. Carvel Hall crab knives are available everywhere from crabbing supply stores to fine jewelers. A set of four knives with a gift box are available for $56 at store.jospice.com.

For Kate, Lifestyle Editor All my loved ones with boats get the Orion Electronic SOS Beacon Locator Kit, and it shows how much I care that I want them to be found. This electronic flare also eliminates the waste of buying flares that expire every few years, while providing some peace of mind that this extremely easy to use piece of emergency equipment can be deployed quickly and save someone I want to join me during the holidays. This Coast Guard approved beacon offers a reliable alternative to traditional, pyrotechnic flares. In an emergency, it emits a bright SOS distress signal in Morse Code, exceeding Coast Guard requirements for duration and intensity. It's also waterproof, and extremely user-friendly. Give the gift of peace of mind this year! lrse.com


HOLIDAY GIFT GUIDE For Jefferson, Editor Lightweight and versatile enough to wear on and off the boat, the Sharkbyte deck shoes made in Alaska with the same slip-resistant Chevron outsole found on XTRATUF's commercial-grade Legacy boots. My new Sharkbytes are easy to slip on, comfortable to wear without dreaded socks, and provide a sure-footed grip in the slickest conditions. All XTRATUF footwear is slip tested using International Organization for Standardization (ISO) standards for Personal Protective Equipment. Testing is performed on both the heel and forepart of the shoes' outsole, an established slip testing protocol, used and accepted in the footwear industry worldwide. And they look great whether you’re wearing long pants or shorts. A sure winner of a gift for any boater—and not a stocking stuffer! xtratuf.com

EDITOR'S PICKS

For Oliver, Contributing Writer Salt n Rays stylish sun protective hoodie that can be worn in the elements or out and about for the day. UPF 50 Hoodie is lightweight, breathable and salt water/ chlorine resistant, it’s the go to for guys while they’re out fishing or boating. And since it’s made of a moisture-wicking blend of polyester and spandex, it makes the idea base layer under winter garments for skiing and other cold-weather sports. Salt n Rays was launched in 2017 with a line of decorative UPF 50 sun-protective towels that double as wraps, and these have become so well-received that Salt n Rays is now branching into sports apparel by popular demand. saltnrays.com

For Eileen, Circulation Buldano’s “Peshtemal” Turkish towels are designed in Maryland and hand-loomed by local artisans in Anatolia, Turkey. The tradition for creating these unique, multi-function towels goes back more than 600 years. They have been a tradition in Turkish baths for centuries. Peshtemal towels are super absorbent, dry quickly, light in weight, easy to carry and take up little space. They’re the perfect choice if you prefer to pack lightly when traveling. They can be used at the beach, bath, spa, pool, sauna and sports—the choice is yours! These towels come in different styles and colors. Traditional Peshtemal towels are made of 100% cotton, and Buldano Peshtemals still produced in the same way as they have been for centuries. buldano.com

Fall/Holiday 2023 | ChesapeakeBayMagazine.com

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HOLIDAY GIFTGUIDE

Bay Books for Kids Great gifts for the young readers in your life BY NIAMBI DAVIS

A

sk any book lover and they’ll tell you that books make the best holiday gifts. Here’s a list of Chesapeake Bay books for children and the adults who read to them. Hank and Pearl

Jodie Knox

of a Captain and Crew oat through the eyes of a love for the sea.

By Jodie Knox, Illustrated by Agus Prajogo

along the Potomac River Basin of Washington, DC’s n looking for her crew will ecialness of friendship. Hank and Pearl, the Tale of a Captain and Crew

US $18.95 CAN $22.95

The author’s life on a houseboat with her companion Hank is the inspiration for the story of Hank and Pearl. Pearl the cat is looking for a friend and co-captain, but all of the waterfront friends she asks already have homes. When Pearl decides to visit a shelter, her luck, and that of Hank the dog changes. Hank learns the way of boating life, they both find a friend, and Hank the shelter dog has finally found his home sweet home. Washington, D.C. area residents and visitors will love the beautiful illustrations of the Southwest D.C. skyline, sunrise and sunset over the Potomac River, and the hustle and bustle of the Wharf. And for anyone who's ever chosen a rescue as their four-legged companion, this story will have special significance. Jodie Knox Illustrated by Agus Prajogo

Available at hankandpearladventures.com $18.99

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ChesapeakeBayMagazine.com | Fall/Holiday 2023

Chessie The Sea Monster that Ate Annapolis! By Jeffrey Holland, Illustrated by Marcy Dunn Ramsey Instead of a serpentine sea monster hiding in the depths of the Chesapeake Bay, the Chessie of this story is another Bay area icon altogether. Instead, the “monster” turns out to be a giant, loveable Chesapeake Bay Retriever, “as big as Moby Dick’s daughter,” discovered and brought home from the Bay by waterman Captain Dan. But as adorable as she is, this big girl wreaks unintentional havoc wherever she goes. And just when she’s exiled to Eastport, Chessie saves the day for the oyster fleet. This rhyming Bay tale with a twist on a legend is a fun read for children and adults alike. Jeff Holland, CBM’s editor, was inspired by his own legendary retriever, Ruffian. Available at amazon.com $18.95


HOLIDAY GIFT GUIDE

THE GIFT OF STORY

Jordan the Jellyfish

Waterman’s Child

By Cindy Freeland, Illustrated by Jon C. Munson II

By Barbara Mitchell, Illustrated by Daniel San Souci

In this story of a day gone wrong, Jordan the Jellyfish accidentally stings a girl swimming near Sandy Point then gets lost on her way home to Mayo Beach. Along the way, the curious and caring sea creature encounters adventure and danger, makes friends with Bay inhabitants above and below the water, is rescued by an osprey, saves Curtis the Blue Crab from a pot, and finally finds her way home. Jordan’s story educates parents and children about the Bay, its inhabitants, and how to care for the body of water Freeland describes as our national treasure.

Marie is a third generation Tilghman Island woman who chose to “marry a waterman at St. John’s on the Bay.” Marie takes readers through the era of prosperity when the Bay was full of oysters and boats, to the scarcity of the Depression and wartime years, to the return to good days of life on Tilghman. Accompanied by nearly full-page illustrations, the story is a written and visual celebration of community, perseverance, and an enduring way of life. Although “Waterman’s Child” is considered a children’s book it would be a valued addition to the bookshelf of anyone who loves the history of this unique island in the Chesapeake.

Available at cbaykidsbooks.com $12 paperback / $18 hardback

Available at thriftbooks.com $15.99

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Fall/Holiday 2023 | ChesapeakeBayMagazine.com

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HOLIDAY GIFT GUIDE Awesome Chesapeake A Kid’s Guide to the Bay

Chesapeake ABC and 123

By David Owen Bell, Illustrated by Marcy Dunn Ramsey

By Priscilla Cummings, Illustrated by David Aiken

This book is an easy-to-read but informative introduction to the Chesapeake Bay—its beginnings, the people who settled along its shores, the abundance of plant and animal life, and ways everyone can help protect the Bay watershed. For children fascinated by the area’s land and sea dwellers, each page is filled with illustrations—from the great blue heron and horseshoe crabs to muskrats, terrapins, and ducks. “Awesome Chesapeake,” geared to elementary and middle school students, is a perfect gift for budding Bay scientists.

“Chesapeake Bay ABC” and its companion 1-2-3 are Bay-inspired introductions to letters and numbers. Colorful illustrations fill each page, not only with letters and numbers but with the wildlife, water creatures, plant life, landmarks, and scenery iconic to life on the Chesapeake Bay. Little ones will love the rhythm and rhyme of the words read out loud.

Available at thriftbooks.com $5.69

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THE GIFT OF STORY

ChesapeakeBayMagazine.com | Fall/Holiday 2023

Available at amazon.com $11.95 Niambi Davis was raised on the Eastern Shore of Maryland and takes every opportunity to share her love of the Land of Pleasant Living through words and pictures.


Fall/Holiday 2023 | ChesapeakeBayMagazine.com

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ON BOATS

Solace 415CS— A Big, Strong, Long-Legged Thoroughbred by Capt. John Page Williams

Solace 415CS LOA: 41' Beam: 12'3'' Draft: 24'' Weight: 25,000 lb (dry) Transom Deadrise: 23 degrees Bridge Clearance: 8'4''/9'2'' with radar Fuel Capacity: 444 gal Water Capacity: 40 gal (6 gal hot) Waste Capacity: 18 gal Persons Capacity: 16 Max power: 880 hp 36

ChesapeakeBayMagazine.com | Fall/Holiday 2023

S

olace Boats has entered a deep partnership with Chesapeake, Va.-based Volvo Penta to produce the 415CS, a top-of-the-line, state-of-the-art, and forward-looking 41-foot center-console. The cabin is large enough to accommodate a couple for a long weekend or even more, while the bow deck, helm, and cockpit can serve a small crowd for socializing or serious fishing. We had an opportunity to spend some time on hull #1 during the Annapolis Powerboat Show and came away suitably impressed. At a time when large outboard motors are (justifiably) all the rage, the engineering synergy between Solace and Volvo Penta integrating a sophisticated, double-stepped hull with twin 440-hp D6 diesel engines turning DPI (dualpropeller) outdrives makes a compelling case for efficiency, range, and seaworthiness. That synergy also hints at a future running carbon-neutral fuel and retrofitting a hybrid diesel-electric power system. The Solace 415CS and its outboard-powered sister, the 41CS, are thoroughbreds from boatbuilding royalty, the Dougherty family. Solace Boats is the creation of Stephen Dougherty and his wife, Sarah. Many readers will recognize Stephen as the son of Bob Dougherty, who joined Boston Whaler in 1960, two years after its founding, and remained the person best known for the


success of that brand for the next 30 years. Stephen joined his father there, starting on the production line, and working his way up until they both left in 1990 to found EdgeWater Boats and then Everglades Boats, along with the predecessor of Dougherty Manufacturing, a diversified company with expertise in engineering, tooling, mold-making, metal fabrication, composite manufacturing, paint, CNC machining, and concrete mold fabrication. Solace Boats sprang from Dougherty Manufacturing, under Sarah and Stephen’s ownership and management. No surprise that, as the Solace website declares, “[W]e design everything. We also handle our own tooling process, where we build all of our own plugs and tooling, utilizing state-of-the-art 5-axis CNC mills.” The dedicated team of craftspeople they have assembled represents many decades of experience and innovation in a wide range of specialties. Like the three smaller Solace models, the 41s ride on deep-V (23 degrees at transom), double-stepped

ventilated hulls with lifting strakes and wide reverse chines. The hull has a 12' 3" beam and it’s quite sharp (48 degrees at the bow entry). The steps introduce air to mix with water under the running bottom, reducing friction (making it “slippery”), while tracking chine rails on each side of the underbody hold the boat firmly in place in turns. They also help to hold the air bubbles where they do the most good at speed. The efficiency provided by those steps shows in a recent independent profile of the 415CS’s performance. There, the boat’s most economical cruising speed range turned out to be a distance-eating 21– 37 knots (1.01–1.16 nmpg), producing a conservative range of 400–460 nautical miles and a spread of options for adjusting to sea conditions. Not bad for a 25,000-pound vessel. Quick trips from Annapolis to the mouth of the Choptank or Lynnhaven to the Chesapeake Light Tower, anyone? Solace builds its boats with a process called Vacuum Infusion, laying up engineered, integrated fabrics of carbon fiber, Innegra (a high

The cabin features twin settees that convert to a queen berth and an enclosed head with shower.

modulus polypropylene fiber), coring, and fiberglass, bonded with epoxy and vinylester resins. In particular, the Innegra amplifies the performance of the other composite fibers, especially by damping vibrations and increasing impact resistance. The lamination crew lays up each boat’s hull and stringer grid together and infuses them that way, allowing them to cure together in the mold. Then they apply methacrylate adhesive and place the liner precisely into the hull/grid, effectively welding them together into one very strong unit, with the deck “ring mold” then bonded to it. Equipping the 415CS is equally meticulous. Examples include a bow deck with three-across seating in front of the console, benches that double as forward-facing lounges port and Fall/Holiday 2023 | ChesapeakeBayMagazine.com

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starboard (storage under and table between), and an anchor locker with windlass. An integrated hardtop covers the console and helm/mezzanine seats, with an electronically actuated, fully opening windshield (including wipers and washer), LED lighting throughout, large service access hatches with heavy duty SS gas strut stays, port side-boarding door with swing hinge and grab handles, and under-gunwale storage compartments with concealed trash cans and wraparound coaming pads. An oversized, full-perimeter gutter drains rainwater and the little spray that comes aboard. Magnets embedded in the fiberglass hold down all removable (magnetized) cushions and stainless cups in cupholders. All aluminum is treated with PPG Coraflon anti-corrosion coating. A JL Audio stereo system with 17 speakers and three amplifiers produces plenty of sounds everywhere, with three control panels. The cabin’s oversized door leads to a comfortable space with a twin settee

that converts to a queen berth, an enclosed head with shower, 16,000 BTU air conditioning with reversecycle heat, wood cabinets with solid countertop, and a 32'' LED television. At the helm are three chairs abreast with flip-up bolsters and armrests on shock mitigation mounts. An electrically actuated shock-absorbing pad adjusts vertically to optimize sightlines for the skipper. Above the center steering wheel is a broad Volvo Penta Glass Cockpit layout with twin Garmin 8622 flush-mount multifunction displays and the main control panel for the sound system, with seven 2'' air-conditioning vents arrayed atop. The Volvo Penta Glass Cockpit helm is completely integrated with the engines, outdrives, and boat systems through the company’s Electronic Vessel Control and Garmin Digital Switching. Also included are twin VHF radios, a Fantom 24'' 4kW radar dome on the hardtop, a GSD 25 sounder module, and an Airmar 500-watt CHIRP tri-transducer with SideVu and ClearVu recessed in the hull. The

center helm chair armrest holds a Garmin Remote Input Device to starboard and a joystick to port (more on that below). To drive all of this wizardry, the 415CS has a 3000-watt inverter with 100-amp charging, a 40amp battery charger, an AGM battery bank, and a 7.1 KW MASE diesel genset with sound enclosure (8.6 kW optional) mounted in the capacious lazarette under the cockpit sole. The aft side of the helm chairs’ base unit offers three mezzanine seats. The boat we were on is the prototype. The first production boat has a completely different rear facing seat and work station. Under the seat there’s a custom Frigid Rigid Cooler. The seat backrest folds down to access tackle storage. The starboard side has a drawer that stores a propane grill, and the port side has a freshwater sink. At the transom is a large lounge that rises on electric rams to provide broad access to the two Volvo D6s for daily fluid checks and virtually any other maintenance needs. The lounge itself offers a movable back that converts it from forward- to aft-facing or a sunpad. Aft of it through walkways on either side lies a broad stern platform with hatches for access to the sterndrives and U-shaped safety stanchions for boarding, fighting fish, or handling them. A pair of sturdy doors close off the walkways when necessary. Basic safety systems include four 2200 GPH bilge pumps placed in three zones, with high-water alarms and a Bilge Dry system. Three automatic fire extinguishers mount in two zones, secured in dedicated lockers. The aforementioned self-

The helm features a broad Volvo Penta Glass Cockpit layout with twin Garmin 8622 flush-mount multi-function displays.

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ChesapeakeBayMagazine.com | Fall/Holiday 2023


bailing cockpit drains through four 2'' deck fittings on each side. Recessed toe kicks all around provide stability for leaning over the side. Stainless steel and aluminum grab rails come to hand almost magically when reached for. Dedicated hullside pockets make life jacket and throwable devices readily available. The long list of fishing assets includes abundant tackle storage, 18 flush-mount rod holders in the gunwales and 11 across the transom, under-gunwale horizontal rod storage (three per side), under-gunwale locking rod lockers up to 6'6'' (7 rods and one gaff or brush handle per side), a tenrod rocket launcher on the hardtop, in-deck fishboxes, and multiple meticulously engineered livewells. For serious sight fishing, Solace offers an optional upper helm station with full controls. Access is easy thanks to

broad steps built into each of the aft hardtop support arches. As noted, the twin Volvo Penta D6 engines with DPI Aquamatic Sterndrives form a totally integrated package. The engines are in-line 6-cylinder, 5.5-liter, common-rail diesels with double overhead camshafts, turbo- and superchargers. They each turn individually steerable Aquamatic DPI sterndrives with twin counter-rotating propellers that harness the considerable torque of the D6s with great efficiency. Electronic Vessel Control provides extraordinarily smooth, silent gear shifting, a Dynamic Positioning System, and automatic Powertrim Assistant. In addition, it incorporates not only joystick maneuvering at low speed, but also Volvo Penta’s new, award-winning Joystick Driving technology at speed. We have to note, as a result of our sea

trial, the uncanny feeling of piloting this 41' x 12'3'' vessel with the joystick not only at her 30-knot happy speed but also with precision at low idle speed around channel edges and oyster reefs. The new DPI outdrives include state-of-the-art anti-corrosion features. A Quick MC2 X7 supplies gyro stabilization. Price with twin 440-hp Volvo D6 diesels turning DPT outdrives is $1,700,000. With quadruple 400-hp Mercury V-10 Verado or triple 450-hp Yamaha XTO Offshore outboards, it’s $1,600,000. For more information, visit solaceboats.com. The Chesapeake’s Solace Boats dealer is Bosun's Marine in Grasonville, Md. Editor at Large John Page Williams is a fishing guide, educator, author and naturalist, saving the Bay since 1973.

Find Your Home on the Sassafras River at Skipjack Cove! Come for the fun, stay for the vibe. Restaurant. Pool. Live Music. And so much more!

Use the code SJCB20 and get 20% off your stay!* Visit www.skipjackcovemd.com to learn more and reserve your slip today! 150 Skipjack Road | Georgetown, Maryland 21930 | P:410.275.2122 | E: info@skipjackcove.com | W: www.skipjackcove.com *Code valid through 12/31/23. Cannot be combined with any other offers. Good for bookings made on the Skipjack Cove website through Snag-A-Slip.

Fall/Holiday 2023 | ChesapeakeBayMagazine.com

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ChesapeakeBayMagazine.com | Fall/Holiday 2023


CHESAPEAKE COCKTAIL

Pusser’s Apple Mule By Kate Hollinsworth

E

rin, bartender extraordinaire at Pusser’s in Annapolis, whips up an Apple Mule as the leaves turn golden and fall, and the harvest

comes in. Let this oh-so-autumn drink help you snuggle in for a warm night! Her recipe is below.

Pour 2 oz. of Crown Apple Whiskey in a tall glass

To watch our video on

over ice. Add the juice of 1/4 lime. Partly fill the glass

creating this

with ginger beer and top it off with a splash of

cocktail, scan

preferably to someone cuddling next to you in front

this QR code:

cranberry juice. Garnish with a lime and serve, of an open fire.

Fall/Holiday 2023 | ChesapeakeBayMagazine.com

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CHESAPEAKE ALMANAC

Cownose Rays’ Secret Migrations Revealed by Capt. John Page Williams

A

©TODD PUSSER

round the Chesapeake, we get used to seasonal comings and going—ospreys leaving around Labor Day for their “other summer” in Central and South America, and tundra swans arriving from Alaska’s North Slope between Thanksgiving and Christmas. Two scientists have been researching the remarkable migrations of the cownose rays that birth their pups, breed and feed here in summer. As to where they go in the wintertime, these scientists have solved the mystery using a telemetric network that spans the full length of the Atlantic seaboard.

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ChesapeakeBayMagazine.com | Fall/Holiday 2023


rays grow one or two sharp, barbed spines covered with a mucus of localized, pain-inducing poison at the bases of their tails for defense. Captain John Smith famously “sported himself ” by spearing fish with his sword on a shallow bar at the mouth of the Rappahannock in the summer of 1608. He made the mistake of impaling a ray, which repaid the insult with its own weapon, causing him such great pain that he thought he was going to die. When the expedition’s doctor applied a “precious oil,” the pain subsided and Smith “ate of the fish to his supper.” The incident’s location, of course, is immortalized as Stingray Point, at the east end of Deltaville, Virginia. That story and the general designation of “stingray” give cownose rays a fearsome image, and the seemingly uncontrollable panic

Left: This image of a "fever" of cownose rays was taken by aerial photographer Todd Pusser over Norfolk Canyon. Some scientists liken rays' migration to that of the herds on the Serengeti. Below: A marine biologist holds a small ray by its fins, showing why they're called "cownose" rays.

of a ray hooked by mistake and beating its wings at boatside has turned many people away from them. Watermen fishing pound nets find them obnoxious nuisances that must be released while harvesting other, more “normal” fish species. At one time, the rays were wrongly accused of destroying oyster restoration reefs and on-bottom aquaculture

PHOTO BY JAY FLEMING, COURTESY OF SERC

Matt Ogburn is a marine fisheries ecologist at the Smithsonian Environmental Research Center (SERC) on the Rhode River in Edgewater, Md., and Robert Fisher is an ichthyologist at the Virginia Institute of Marine Science (VIMS) on the York River at Gloucester Point. The Maryland Department of Natural Resources (DNR) is also interested in cownose ray migration, to the point of developing a management plan for the species. Compared with other species of fish, cownose rays are enigmatic, even weird to most of us. Like their cousins, the sharks, they have cartilage for skeletons instead of bone, with compressed bodies (“flat shark” is an apt description). They swim by “flapping” their powerful, enlarged pectoral fins instead of their tails, which are long and cord-like. The tails are harmless, but cownose

Fall/Holiday Fall/Holiday2023 2023| |ChesapeakeBayMagazine.com ChesapeakeBayMagazine.com

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25 Boat Slips 50 Hotel Rooms Heated Saltwater Pool Fire Pits Lawn Games

Fresh Local Seafood & Craft Cocktails Boat Docks for Free while Eating 44

ChesapeakeBayMagazine.com | Fall/Holiday 2023


Maryland waterman John “Willy” Dean gives the cownose rays caught in his pound net to SERC biologists Rob Aguilar, Keira Heggie

operations. During this period, some fishermen began shooting surfaceswimming rays with hunting bows and arrows. Tournaments killed large numbers, which participants simply threw away. The waste sparked public outrage, which led to concern at Maryland’s DNR, the beginning of the management plan, and more studies at SERC and VIMS. The rays’ negative image begins to fall apart as we study them. Their mouths lie underneath their heads, with teeth fused into two rectangular, rounded blocks for grinding prey. Most often, they feed either by sucking up critters like mud crabs they find on the Bay’s bottom or by dislodging critters in the sediment like soft-shell clams and worms by flapping their wings hard and drawing water in through their gill openings to spurt out of their mouths at high pressure. There is some evidence that this agitation (or cultivation) improves the diversity of critters like mud crabs and worms in Bay bottom communities. Despite their strange (to us) appearance and fearsome spines, cownose rays are strikingly adapted to fit their lifestyle. Watch one swimming gracefully in an aquarium tank and you may even decide it’s beautiful. They are also exciting to catch when hooked unexpectedly on rod and reel, easily as powerful and fast as more conventional game fish, and tasty when prepared correctly, as the recipe in the Boat Show issue of Chesapeake Bay Magazine described. Handling

PHOTO BY JAY FLEMING, COURTESY OF SERC

and Chuck Bangley.

one at boatside is not rocket science. Simply control it in a net, remove the hook from its mouth with pliers (if you’re releasing it), or whack it between the eyes if harvesting, and remove the spine with the pliers. For more recipes for cownose rays (fifteen, no less), visit the Virginia Marine Products Board website, virginiaseafood.org. So, what’s the mystery about migration? Over three years, Matt Ogburn and his team worked with watermen fishing pound nets and deployed longlines from SERC’s research vessel to catch cownose rays and insert radio-tracking devices in their bellies. Each ray’s device emits its own code. SERC is a member (actually, the managing institution) of the Atlantic Cooperative Telemetry Network, in which about 150 researchers from Maine to Florida maintain and share data from some 5,000 receivers along the coast that

pick up signals from any tagged animals passing within 500 yards. The SERC study of 51 rays (38 female, 13 male) indicate that “our” rays winter together in the Atlantic off Cape Canaveral, Florida. As the water warms in early June, large (up to 36 inches across) female cownose rays—many of which are pregnant— swim north to the Chesapeake. Their arrival date varies from year to year, according to the sea surface temperature. Our shallow, rich waters allow these rays to give birth to their pups, which are about 12" wide and fully formed when they’re born, in relative safety from the large oceanic sharks that are their main predators. The ray pups are immediately able to begin foraging on the Chesapeake’s small soft clams. These female rays mature at six to eight years of age and can live for 30 to 35, but each produces only a single pup per year. Part of the

Fall/Holiday 2023 | ChesapeakeBayMagazine.com

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A SERC biologist measures a cownose ray before inserting a tracking device in its abdomen. The research was carried out humanely under SERC Animal Care and Use Permit SERC2017-0512.

concern about excessive harvest is that with their slow growth and maturation with low birth rate, it would be easy to fish them down. For the same reasons, recovery would be painfully slow even with protection. Several weeks after the pups are born, the smaller males arrive, apparently prompted to migrate by length of daylight or some other fixed environmental cue instead of temperature. With the pups out on their own, the raucous mating season

begins as males and females swim together. By July, the females are pregnant all over again. They continue to forage for the summer, exploring

farther up the Bay and its rivers in search of feeding grounds. Some of the tagged rays even swim through the C&D Canal into Delaware Bay. So, what’s next for cownose ray research? Matt Ogburn wants to learn more about the effects of bottom “cultivation,” to discover whether it is beneficial to those communities that are so critical to a healthy Chesapeake food web. He’s still interested in developing a management plan in Maryland and will continue to mine the data from the ACT Network to learn more details of the migrations this long-lived species undertakes. For the rest of us, the evolving story of cownose ray migration is just one more reason to appreciate them as remarkable members of the Chesapeake community. Here’s hoping that our “snowbird” rays are comfortable and well fed in their winter digs off Cape Canaveral. Editor at Large John Page Williams is a fishing guide, educator, author and naturalist, saving the Bay since 1973.

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ChesapeakeBayMagazine.com | Fall/Holiday 2023


2023

WATERFOWL FESTIVAL

®

The Waterfowl Festival wishes to again thank our 2023 Partners for their generous support. Their cash and in-kind contributions provide valuable assistance to help offset a portion of the Waterfowl Festival’s annual expenses while likewise supporting our mission.

$25,000+

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ducks unlimited $5,000+

E. E. Streets Memorial Post VFW #5118

Salisbury Dealerships

$2,500+ Bartlett Tree Experts C. Albert Matthews Choke Tubes Economy Restoration Gander’s Car Wash Gater Waders Leaffilter North, LLV M&T Bank Merrill Lynch Wealth Management O’Donnell Vein & Laser Republic Servies ROSM Soistman Family Dentistry Sundance Homes Wye Financial Partners SAVE THE DATE Waterfowl Festival 2024 November 8–10

COMMUNITY PARTNERS Academy Art Museum Anthony’s Italian Restaurant Avalon Foundation Bagery Baird Investments Blue Ruin Boss Shotshells Brackish Wooder Cecil H. Gannon & Sons, Inc. Charles Jobes Decoy Chesapeake Awnings Chesapeake Bay Maritime Museum Chesapeake Film Festival Chick-fil-A of Easton Christ Church of Easton Councell Farms Discover Easton Dr. Computer Eagle Dumpster Rental Elks Lodge #1622 ESLC Fairfield Inn & Suites Gipe Associates Guyette & Deeter Harrison’s Wine and Liquors Holiday Inn Express J.J. Lares Kent Island Resort Lane Engineering MD Dept. of Natural Resources MD Environmental Services Mid Shore Graphics

Minorities in Aquaculture

Muller Chokes On Your Mark Lighting Out of the Fire People’s Bank Phillips Wharf Fish Mobile Pierson’s Comfort Group Quality Inn Ruth Brothers Sea Watch International ShoreRivers Summit Community Bank Talbot County Economic Development and Tourism Talbot County Free Library Talbot County Public Schools The Country School The Ward Foundation Washington College Wawa Wicked Retriever Apparel Zeke’s Coffee MEDIA PARTNERS Attraction Magazine Chesapeake Bay Magazine Decoy Magazine Fish Talk Gray’s Sporting Journal MD Hunting Quarterly MPT Plein Air Easton What’s Up? Media WHCP


Entertaining Afloat BY CAROLINE FOSTER

48

ChesapeakeBayMagazine.com | Fall/Holiday 2023

LISA MASSON MCATEER

Holiday


CAROLINE FOSTER

T

here’s nothing better than a holiday evening in a formal dining room with matching bone China, delicately folded linens, crystal and sterling silver sparkling under the flickering candlelight. Dogs beg under the table until the last morsel of pie drops and it’s time to load up the dishwasher. That is Quintessential Holiday.

Wait, maybe there is something better: holiday dining in a boat cabin; a slightly different scenario. Surrounded by a small group of your best friends and family, sitting elbow to elbow around a teak table, laughing, passing a bottle of red wine under an oil lamp, listening to classical music and taking in the aromas from the galley. Yes, that is holiday dining! 

Pear Spinach Gorganzola Salad

CAROLINE FOSTER

Left: Cornish Hens and Oyster Stuffing

CAROLINE FOSTER

Endive Salad

Oysters Rocket Feller

Fall/Holiday 2023 | ChesapeakeBayMagazine.com

49


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CAROLINE FOSTER CAROLINE FOSTER

Stuffing Stuffed Biscuits

Turkey Drumsticks

CAROLINE FOSTER

Your galley oven—Force 10, Eno, Dickenson, etc.—is far more efficient than you might realize. Many boat owners don’t push the limits of these capable gimbaled gadgets, while some don’t use them at all. The holidays are a perfect time to kick your galley into high gear. Think of starting off small with Cornish hens. Beautiful and festive, they can be stuffed with anything you desire, such as oyster stuffing, pomegranate wild rice stuffing, or left unstuffed for quicker roasting. Depending on where the heating element is in your oven, you may need to rotate the birds a few times for even cooking. A festive side salad might be endive, apple and walnut or spinach, pear and gorgonzola. Winter fruits are great additions to holiday salads. For stovetop side dishes, consider sweet potatoes and fennel or braised red cabbage. While your guests mingle before the holiday feast, a Bay-inspired appetizer to pop in your oven could be “Oysters Rocket Feller” (the classic Rockefeller dish using arugula (rocket) instead of spinach). Or try elegant crab stuffed mushroom caps if the crab season allows. If your meal does

Crab Stuffed Mushroom Caps

Fall/Holiday 2023 | ChesapeakeBayMagazine.com

51


Gift It Before It’s Gone!

ORDER YOURS NOW


CAROLINE FOSTER

not include stuffing in your birds— and everyone loves stuffing—try baking Stuffing Stuffed Biscuits before your entree. Once you have conquered small dinners and have gained confidence in your galley oven, your holiday meals will expand exponentially. A small 9to 11-pound turkey can be easily slow roasted in your oven, with the rack on the lowest shelf. It can be stuffed, requiring a longer roasting time, or spatchcocked (butterflied; backbone cut out, flattened and roasted breast side up) for quicker, more even roasting. Not into white turkey meat? Try oven roasting turkey drumsticks with Bourbon-honey mustard sauce instead. And don’t overlook cooking on the stovetop. A turkey breast, browned and placed in a pressure cooker, with herbs all around, will come out tender and juicy. There are other holiday birds to try. A whole roast duck with an orange glaze, requiring a super-hot galley oven preferably with a broiler, is a hit with the duck-loving crowd. As is duck breast in cream sherry with figs, a sophisticated entrée for your “tablecloth” guests. If you can get your hands on small birds such as partridge, chukar or grouse, try this wonderful recipe from Finland, Willow Grouse with Pink Peppercorn Sauce, perfect for winter holidays. The peppercorn sauce is infused with Cognac, rosemary and blue cheese, a favorite of the Fins. This sauce can be used with almost any kind of poultry or meat. Trying to make a fish entrée look spectacular for your holiday table? Try salmon en croute, a salmon filet artistically wrapped in puff pastry to resemble a whole fish. It is considered “Wellington” without the beef for your pescetarian guests. To step up your cooking game a few notches, introduce the “Roast Beast” to your galley. Yes, a standing

Duck in Cream Sherry with Figs

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CAROLINE FOSTER CAROLINE FOSTER

Salmon En Croute

CAROLINE FOSTER

Roast Beast

rib roast, a gastronomical investment, can actually be prepared in a galley oven. A five-rib roast, about 11 pounds, will easily feed 6 to 8 people. Best cooked in a disposable aluminum roasting pan for a number of convenience reasons, it needs to go into a “hot as you can get” oven for 15 minutes, fat side up, then roast slowly at 350º for 20 minutes per pound until it reaches and internal temperature of 140º for rare; about 4 hours for an 11 lb. roast. This takes more time but less work than preparing…say…lasagna. Add Yorkshire pudding to the fat drippings and your guests will be reciting Charles Dickens before the oil lamp burns out. Other over-the-top classic beef entrees could include Chateaubriand, roasted in a similar fashion to the rib roast, and finished with a savory mushroom sauce. If any of this sounds inviting to you, delay that winterization until after the holidays (if weather allows, of course) and you will gain a few more weeks of boating enjoyment and some wonderful meals onboard. And be sure your cooking fuel tanks—alcohol, propane, whatever you use—are filled, and there’s an additional tank in reserve. If you live aboard, you’re already in the know and could write your own stories of the holidays! So, this holiday season, venture out of your dining room and take your culinary skills to the galley for a memorable, cozy dining experience. You can find recipes for most of these holiday delights by searching galleypirates.com.

Former Creative Director for Chesapeake Bay Magazine, Caroline Foster is a designer and writer living in Annapolis on a sailboat with her husband. She is co-creator of the website Galley Pirates, Cooking for Cruising and Living Aboard.

Chateaubriand, Mushroom Sauce 54

ChesapeakeBayMagazine.com | Fall/Holiday 2023


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$159,900 Statement of Ownership, Management and Circulation, required by 39 USC 3685 1. Publication Title: Chesapeake Bay Magazine 2. Publication Number: 512470 3. Filing Date: 10/1/2023 4. Issue Frequency: 6-times. 5. No. of Issues Published Annually: 6. 6. Annual Subscription Price: $25. 7. Complete Mailing Address of Known Office of Publication: 410 Severn Avenue Ste. 314, Annapolis, MD 21403. Contact Person: Eileen Rodgers. Telephone: 410-263-2662. 8. Complete Mailing Address of Headquarters or General Business Office of Publisher: 410 Severn Avenue Ste. 314, Annapolis, MD 21403. 9. Full Names and Complete Mailing Addresses of Publisher, Editor, and Managing Editor: Publisher: John Stefancik 410 Severn Avenue Ste. 314, Annapolis, MD 21403. Editor: Jefferson Holland, 410 Severn Avenue Ste. 314, Annapolis, MD 21403. Managing Editor: none. 10. Owner: Chesapeake Bay Media, LLC 410 Severn Avenue Ste. 314, Annapolis, MD 21403. John Stefancik, John Martino, Barbara Martino 410 Severn Avenue Ste. 314, Annapolis, MD 21403. 11. Known Bondholders, Mortgages and Other Security Holders: None. 12. Tax Status: Has Not Changed During Preceding 12 Months. 13. Publication Title: Chesapeake Bay Magazine. 14. Issue Date for Circulation Data Below: Boating Issue 2023. Average No. Copies Each Issue During Preceding 12 Months: a. Total Number of Copies. (1)Outside County Paid/Requested Mail 4705. (2)In-County Paid/Requested Mail Subscriptions 830. (3)Sales Through Dealers and Carriers, Street Vendors, Counter Sales, and Other Paid Distribution Outside USPS 469. (4)Requested Copies Distributed by Other Mail Classes Through the USPS 0. c. Total Paid Distribution 6004. d. Free or Nominal Rate Distribution by Mail and Outside the Mail: (1)Outside-County Copies 2122. (2) In-County Copies 375. (3)Copies Mailed at Other Classes Through the USPS 0. (4)Outside the Mail 399. Total Free or Nominal Rate Distribution 2896. Total Distribution 8900. Copies not Distributed 275. Total 9175. Percent Paid and/or Requested Circulation 67%. No. Copies of Single Issue Published Nearest to Filing Date: a. Total Number of Copies. (1)Outside County Paid/Requested Mail 4919. (2)In-County Paid/Request-ed Mail Subscriptions 868. (3)Sales Through Dealers and Carriers, Street Vendors, Counter Sales, and Other Paid Distribution Outside USPS 588. (4)Requested Copies Distributed by Other Mail Classes Through the USPS 0. c. Total Paid Distribution 6375. d. Free or Nominal Rate Distribution by Mail and Outside the Mail: (1)Outside-County Copies 980. (2)In-County Copies 173. (3)Copies Mailed at Other Classes Through the USPS 0. (4) Outside the Mail 407. Total Free or Nominal Rate Distribution 1560. Total Distribution 7935. Copies not Distributed 250. Total 8185. Percent Paid and/or Requested Circulation 80%.

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STERN LINES

What’s the Difference? by Eric Cavell

S

ee if you can find 9 things on the bottom photo that are different from the top photo of this clever Christmas tree created out of crab pots in the village of Kilmarnock, Virginia. (Photo courtesy of Virginia’s River Realm). You can find the answers by scanning the QR code at bottom, but it’s not fair to cheat!

64

ChesapeakeBayMagazine.com | Fall/Holiday 2023


WHERE SHORE HOLIDAYS BEGIN

Make holiday memories in Queen Anne’s County! From festive events like the Watermen's Crab Basket Tree Lighting Dec. 2nd and the Holiday House Tour Dec. 17th to inspired boat-to-table cuisine at our restaurants and one-of-a-kind shops where you can find the perfect gifts, discover the best of the season here in QAC! PLAN YOUR CHESAPEAKE HOLIDAY AT VISITQUEENANNES.COM


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