// TRAVEL & TOURISM //
Old Montreal BY LESLEY KENNY
On the western shore of the Island of Montreal, this historic district blends old-world charm with twentieth century chic. But mostly – it’s lots of fun!
O
ne of the oldest neighbourhoods in North America, Old Montreal – Vieux Montréal – is Montreal’s historic district, beside the shores of the St. Lawrence River. Steeped in history going back 8,000 years, when First Nations peoples lived here, the cobblestone
streets and plazas of Old Montreal date back to the 17th and 18th centuries when settlers from France, and then Britain, laid claim. Today, the consensus is that Old Montreal looks the most European of any place in Canada. But there are some definite Canadian vibes and venues here. A 20-minute walk from downtown Montreal, Old Montreal can be enjoyed on foot, the best way to appreciate the architecture and discover the cafés and hole-in-the-wall boutiques. Sections of Rue Saint-Paul, the oldest street here, are designated pedestrian only. At once charming and chic, cobblestone streets and alleys wind past centuries-old buildings that now offer contemporary shopping and fine dining experiences. Wide plazas make great spots for rest and people-watching. Everywhere, flowers decorate the streets and patios, and vines cling to walls and travel along old archways. The architectural landscape of Old Montreal is the result of fire and fury. The homes and businesses built by settlers in the 17th and 18th centuries were mainly constructed of wood. Fires often raged out of control and razed dozens and sometimes hundreds of buildings. Word came from Britain that new buildings needed to be constructed of brick and stone to limit future damage. Montreal’s City Hall, located in Old Montreal, was all but gutted by a fire in the 1700s. The exterior was saved and the rebuilt, five-storey building is considered one of the finest examples of the Second Empire style. In the twentieth century, urban development proposals to tear down old buildings, and even build an expressway that would cut through the centre of the area, had the kibosh put on them by angry citizens and government officials. The domed, neoclassical Bonsecours Market, once the centre of public life two centuries ago, survived the wrecking ball and is today a stunning home to fashionable shops, restaurants and outdoor cafés. Both City Hall and the Bonsecours Market are designated National Historic Sites. 44
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The illuminated dome of Bonsecours Market visible behind the tallest ferris
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