TRAVEL

Old Montreal

BY LESLEY KENNY

On the western shore of the Island of Montreal, this historic district blends old-world charm with twentieth century chic. But mostly – it’s lots of fun!

One of the oldest neighbourhoods in North America, Old Montreal – Vieux Montréal – is Montreal’s historic district, beside the shores of the St. Lawrence River. Steeped in history going back 8,000 years, when First Nations peoples lived here, the cobblestone streets and plazas of Old Montreal date back to the 17th and 18th centuries when settlers from France, and then Britain, laid claim.

Today, the consensus is that Old Montreal looks the most European of any place in Canada. But there are some definite Canadian vibes and venues here.

A 20-minute walk from downtown Montreal, Old Montreal can be enjoyed on foot, the best way to appreciate the architecture and discover the cafés and hole-in-the-wall boutiques. Sections of Rue Saint-Paul, the oldest street here, are designated pedestrian only.

At once charming and chic, cobblestone streets and alleys wind past centuries-old buildings that now offer contemporary shopping and fine dining experiences. Wide plazas make great spots for rest and people-watching. Everywhere, flowers decorate the streets and patios, and vines cling to walls and travel along old archways.

The architectural landscape of Old Montreal is the result of fire and fury. The homes and businesses built by settlers in the 17th and 18th centuries were mainly constructed of wood. Fires often raged out of control and razed dozens and sometimes hundreds of buildings. Word came from Britain that new buildings needed to be constructed of brick and stone to limit future damage. Montreal’s City Hall, located in Old Montreal, was all but gutted by a fire in the 1700s. The exterior was saved and the rebuilt, five-storey building is considered one of the finest examples of the Second Empire style.

In the twentieth century, urban development proposals to tear down old buildings, and even build an expressway that would cut through the centre of the area, had the kibosh put on them by angry citizens and government officials. The domed, neoclassical Bonsecours Market, once the centre of public life two centuries ago, survived the wrecking ball and is today a stunning home to fashionable shops, restaurants and outdoor cafés. Both City Hall and the Bonsecours Market are designated National Historic Sites. >>

Charming and chic, Old Montreal’s cobblestone streets wind past centuries-old buildings that offer contemporary shopping and fine dining.

Towering above the old streets, the Notre-Dame Basilica welcomes all visitors. Inside this masterpiece of Gothic Revival architecture, the soaring vaulted ceilings, intricate wooden carvings and stained-glass windows will take your breath away. As originally intended. Join a walking tour of Old Montreal and gain free admission to the basilica.

Recently redeveloped, with more plans for 2022, the Old Port’s transformation from an industrial-only zone into a playground for all ages, has greatly expanded the opportunities for visitors to Old Montreal. Cultural facilities along this 2km stretch include the Montreal Science Centre and Montreal’s museum of history and archaeology (Pointe-À-Callière). There’s an outdoor skating rink in winter at the base of the tallest ferris wheel in Canada, where, from your gondola-like swinging cabin, you can take in a panoramic view of the city and seaway.

Would you rather rent a paddle boat or be the person above, swinging across the zipline? At the Old Port you can rent a Jet-Ski for the adrenaline rush or maybe you’d prefer the opportunity to ride in an electric boat along the Old Port and Lachine Canal. You can book a luxury dinner cruise for two or take the family to an IMAX movie. There’s a winter park filled with activities for the snowy season, and, come summer, an urban beach beneath the Clock Tower.

Bonsecours Market, once the centre of public life is now the stunning home to fashionable shops, restaurants and cafes.

Soaring vaulted ceiling and carved wooden figures inside the Notre-Dame Basilica. An urban beach under the Clock Tower in Old Montreal.

Cité Mémoire is a world-class art installation that lights up buildings, streets and trees with the history of Montreal. Photo by: rjdesignworld (pixabay.com) But whatever you do in Old Montreal, don’t leave without taking in one of the most spectacular light projection installations in the world. Cité Mémoire, a massive undertaking, projects the indigenous and colonial history of Montreal onto the sides of buildings, in trees, and across the cobblestone streets under your feet. Download the free app to listen to the narration for each story or just stare in wonder as the side of the 45 metre Clock Tower transforms into a screen for a ballet dancer and the sides of old buildings light up with the social, political and cultural history of Montreal. You’ll see Maurice “Rocket” Richard, and John and Yoko (their famous bed-in for peace in Montreal). Listen to Oscar Peterson, the Montreal-born jazz icon, as the story of Montreal’s Sin City era lights up in front of you. And, thanks to Leonard Cohen, Suzanne takes you down to her place near the river…

Welcome to Old Montreal, where sophisticated meets playful. And inspiration… is everywhere.