Mixing with Mezcal

Q: WHAT IS THE DIFFERENCE BETWEEN MIXING WITH MEZCAL VERSUS TEQUILA?

A: Although they are both agave spirits and closely related, mezcal and tequila are completely different animals, especially when mixing in a cocktail. In general terms, mezcal will usually be more earthy and rustic—perhaps with a more smoky flavor—plus it is, at least by definition and tradition, higher in alcohol, making it richer and often more texturally complex. This does not, however, make mezcal more difficult to work with, but on the contrary, perhaps even more versatile. Tequila, however, may run the risk of being overpowered by stronger or more potent ingredients if the bartender is not cautious. Mezcal will stand up to almost all mixers and retain its intrinsic qualities regardless of the power or potency of its accompaniments. While mezcal often is mixed with fruit or juice and tropical ingredients with great success, it might fare even better with amaro and vermouth and various other spirits and bitters in boozier, stirred cocktails.

When describing the difference between mezcal and tequila to a guest—which is perhaps the question the bartender is most often asked—we usually say the main differences are the regions of production and the types of agave used, which is essentially the correct answer.

However, what the guest really wants to know is the difference in taste. That could be defined better by describing the difference in production, with the main flavor difference being this: Mezcal is produced by roasting the magueys (agave) in an earthen horno (oven) underground. In tequila production, the agave hearts are usually steamed in large, aboveground ovens or even in huge autoclaves. Think of mezcal as roasted and tequila as steamed, as in the difference between the flavor and texture and complexity of roasted potatoes versus boiled potatoes.

All of this understood, mezcal and tequila are often mixed together as a way to introduce guests to mezcal in cocktails such as Phil Ward’s now infamous Oaxacan Old Fashioned, or the very first successful cocktail for mezcal in 1996, shortly after Chichicapa was introduced to the United States, when Mark Miller’s Coyote Cafe created the original Smokin’ Margarita, with a float of Chichicapa on a perfect El Tesoro Margarita (which not only changed the cocktail’s flavor and added to its complexity, but may have completely revolutionized the “floater story!”).

Let’s face it: Mezcal is smoking hot right now. So we got some expert opinions on the ins and outs of mixing with this savory and complex ingredient.

DAVID RAVANDI, FOUNDER OF 123 SPIRITS AND WELL- KNOWN AGAVE WHISPERER, OFFERS THESE TIPS WHEN MIXING WITH MEZCAL: “Constant tasting is essential to adapt and balance cocktails, because the piñas are smoked, steamed, and caramelized in wood-fired pits that are lined with volcanic rock. Mezcal varies due to this artisanal production method, so expect both bottle and batch variations.

“Mezcal has a significantly heightened flavor profile that’s smoky and vaguely bitter with a complex saline quality. This stands in contrast to tequila’s oftenfloral, herbaceous, citrusy, and if oak-aged, vanilla and caramel flavors. Mezcal is often paired with sweeter, floral flavors like honey and liqueurs. On the flip side, complex bitter notes can be amplified with an amaro and tempered by sweet vermouth, as in the Mezcal Negroni. Approach mixing with mezcal like you would an assertive gin. If your customer is a scotch, bourbon, or whiskey drinker—someone who is used to bold spirits—they’ll resonate to the smoky flavors, so don’t hide them. Experiment with combining tequila and mezcal to introduce the style to the uninitiated.

“Begin the educational process with a beguiling sensory experience, and only then offer details about the nuances that differentiate mezcal. There are several tried-and-true mezcal cocktails that use honey, simple syrup, or liqueurs (like elderflower) to counterbalance the inherent bitterness of mezcal. Soon your guests will be eager to learn more about the history, culture, and production methods of mezcal.”