SPECIAL SECTION
COGNAC
The spirit is also the worldwide ambassador for the region of the same name in the Southwest of France. This maritime province lies alongside the country’s Atlantic coast, which, with the Charente River, influences the climate and the soil of the A.O.C. Perhaps surprisingly, Cognac holds the fourth largest vineyard area in France at 78,000 hectares. In all, the region is home to 4,276 winegrowers, 117 professional distillers, and 283 cognac houses, according to The Bureaux National Interprofessionnel du Cognac (BNIC). Winemaking in the Cognac region dates to the 1st century A.D. and the Roman era. With the emergence of international trade in the 11th century, particularly with Holland, wine production grew quickly. The region had already developed a reputation for its salt, and in the 16th century marshlands were drained to increase production. Since the wine had a long journey on ship, the Dutch found it more palatable if distilled when they returned home. Once the traders realized it was better to distill in France, they started building stills along the Charente River. In 1643, the first Cognac house Augier was formed and others, like Martell founded in 1715, soon followed. Second distillation, a requirement today, was introduced in the 17th century. The industry thrived until, as in the rest of France, phylloxera devastated the country’s vineyards, and it took decades to rebuild using rootstock from the United States. The base of all cognac must be grapes grown within the six crus of the region as designated by French law. The grapes, the vast majority of which are Ugni Blanc, are first made into wine before
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being twice distilled over open flame in copper pot stills and then aged in oak for a minimum of two years. Ugni Blanc is low in alcohol and high in acidity, which helps during fermentation and stabilizes the wine before distillation. Distillation is done either with lees or not, depending on the house. Cognac distilled with lees is generally richer with more character and considered more age worthy. The next step in a cognac’s journey is aging, and this is determined by the precise calendar established by French law. Distillation must occur by March 31st following the harvest and the aging clock begins on April 1st. Aging takes place in toasted French oak barrels, and producers choose from barrels with large grains, fine grains, or both. The larger grains allow for more wood interaction and introduce additional tannins. Cognac must be aged for a minimum of two years, though many are aged much longer and blended into the various tiers designated V.S., V.S.O.P. or X.O. The type of cellar also greatly influences the development of the eau-de-vie with humid cellars allowing for more alcohol to evaporate, fostering more round, tropical forward spirits, while dry cellars have less evaporation, and the spirit develops drier, spicy, woody notes. The longer it ages, the more oxidative changes occur, deepening floral and fruit flavors. Some Cognacs age for an extended period, allowing for the development of “Rancio” or Rancio Charantais. Commonly found in cognacs aged more than ten years as well as other fortified spirits like Madeira, Rancio introduces deeper flavors like leather, cigar, earthiness, and nuttiness.
Bartenders are broadening the occasions for cognac and the spirit’s seasonality. As the trade continues to familiarize and embrace the range and versatility of the spirit, mixologists are honing in on the taste profile of different brands and aging categories to create cocktail recipes with cognac all year round. - The Bureaux National Interprofessionnel du Cognac
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CHILLED MAGAZINE
