SPECIAL SECTION
COGNAC
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Cognac is an amazing spirit. Eminently mixable. I approach mixing with cognac by holding back a little on my ratios from what I would use for a whisky drink, but I try to celebrate cognac as a base ingredient. While I like to honor the care that goes into creating it, I also try to find new ways of using it in drinks. - Carol Donovan Bartender for Division on the Rocks, Chicago New Orleans bartender Andrew Guerin of Bourbon O Bar adds, “Don’t be afraid to swap ingredients for cognac. I find many recipes that call for more subtle or softer spirits work amazingly well with cognac. Baking spice profiles are my favorite cognac enhancers; however I love using lighter floral elements to bring out its richness.” According to Steven Hirschauer of San Diego’s The Responsible Glutton, who is certified with The Bureau National Interprofessionnel du Cognac (BNIC), adds anything calling for brown spirits can be a cognac experience. “Various ingredients work well with cognac, simple sweeteners, citrus, spices, even oils, rinses, and fat washing. Try it and see what you like.” PJ Wagner of Untitled Supper Club in Chicago agrees, “You can use cognac in just about anything. Cognac is complex, floral with sweet and savory notes throughout, and it’s incredibly versatile. Unfortunately, it’s also one of the most underutilized spirits for cocktails, so bartenders need to demystify cognac. There’s nothing scary about it. It’s just grapes.” Most bartenders agree that experiencing different brands by tasting, researching, and learning about each cognac’s unique characteristics is helpful to experiencing cognac. It’s also important to note that bartenders understand many prohibition-era cocktails were originally made with cognac, so swapping out newer base spirits in a recipe with cognac is easy and often a new experience for their guests. Dani Keenan of eggspectation suggests adapting these classic recipes to enhance cognac by using elements of cocoa, coffee, or fruits to bring out its best parts. “I love seeing cognac on the rise again in the cocktail world,” Keenan says. “I think it’s delicious, versatile, and worth learning how to incorporate into your drinks. No one cognac is right for every cocktail. Different cognacs have different qualities, and if one doesn’t suit you, another will. That is part of its charm.”
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CHILLED MAGAZINE
