3 minute read
Ask a Bartender - Chris Morris, What to Know About Wine
What to Know WITH BARTENDER CHRIS MORRISabout Wine
Sommelier turned bartender Chris Morris has been working behind the bar for over ten years. Based in Houston, Texas, Morris has worked at many bars and restaurants in a range of roles. Recently he held the position of head bartender at Hunky Dory and bartender at Kau Ba. For Morris, his background in wine has become a useful tool for suggesting, selling and serving wine behind the bar.
WHAT STRATEGIES DO YOU USE FOR SUGGESTING WINE?
I think the two most important things to establish are the guest’s likes and budget. Sometimes that requires more advanced knowledge about wine in general (different regions, climates, styles, famous wines). It can also be as simple as wanting a midpriced dry white to drink on the patio. Once that’s established, the rest is all about context. What are they eating? Special occasion? Date night? Tuesday Happy Hour? There are wines across the spectrum. With a bit of knowledge about the wines you carry, it’s as easy as pairing budget and likes to need.
WHAT SHOULD BARTENDERS KNOW ABOUT WINE OPTIONS?
At a bare minimum, it would be what wines you carry by the glass, the grapes (varietals) of those wines, and where those wines come from. Ideally, you should also know the vintages and some tasting notes or quick stories about them if possible. It doesn’t take much. A lot of guests are just as intimidated or haven’t had the exposure you’ve had either. Having a working knowledge can set them at ease.
WHAT TIPS CAN YOU GIVE FOR READING A LABEL?
This can get complex depending on where in the world you are. New World wines (USA, Australia, etc.) generally have all the relevant information on the labels, so they’re somewhat easy to identify. The Old World (France, Italy, etc.) is much more likely to simply put the region it came from, and it’s up to the consumer to understand that. That’s one of the reasons why wine can seem so intimidating in the first place. One tip when looking at Old World bottles is to look for some sort of geographic certification (AOC in France, DOCG in Italy, etc.), which varies by country. Still, its certification stating this wine is typical of the region. That means at least you’re getting something that tastes consistent, as opposed to a grab bag. There are some fun wines outside of those boundaries, particularly when regulations get involved, but those require a bit more research to get to.
CAN YOU GIVE A FEW TIPS ON PAIRING STRATEGIES?
There’s an adage that says, “What grows together, goes together,” that is timeless advice. Pairing with seafood? Choose a wine from a coastal region. Serving local beef? See if there are some local wineries you can investigate. Another two things that are important is sugar’s interaction with spice and understanding tannin. The sugar in wines like Riesling, Gewurtztraminer, Moscato, some Chenin Blancs, for example, is perfect for spicy Asian dishes. Now with tannin, we’re talking about that fuzzy feeling in your mouth that makes a wine feel dry. The more tannin there is, the more richness it can offset. So have those monster California cabernets with a well-marbled ribeye. Save the Pinot Noir for something more delicate like a Filet Mignon. And, of course, when all else fails, Champagne goes with everything. Literally, everything.
ARE THERE ANY WINE REGIONS YOU’RE INTERESTED IN RIGHT NOW?
I’ve been having a good time with Chinon. It’s a red wine region in the home of Sauvignon Blanc, the Loire Valley. That makes it an underdog, but it is the home of some cool Cabernet Francs. They’re young and spicy, with some nice mineral notes and that classic Cab Franc “green.” Just fun and affordable wines in general. They also put out some nice full-bodied rosés from the same grape.
WHAT ARE YOUR FAVORITE WINES YOU SERVE RIGHT NOW?
By the glass, I’ve been digging the ThierryDelaunay “TyDy” Sauvignon Blanc from the Loire. It’s light and bright and super fresh, everything I want from a Sauvignon Blanc. Just perfect for the Texas heat. At the house, I’ve been obsessed with Stolpman “Crunchy Rôastie,” where a Rhone-style blend of Syrah and Viognier make a bright expression of the usually dark and spicy grape. It’s wild stuff and makes for a chillable red that is always a smash hit.
— BARTENDER CHRIS MORRIS
