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TABLE OF CONTENTS 4
Intro
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Ch. 001: Milan
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Ch. 002: Cornuda
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Ch. 003: Bassano del grappa
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Ch. 004: Venice
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Ch. 005: Fabriano
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Ch. 006: Rome
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Ch. 007: The Pals
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Outro
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“EVEN NOW I MISS ITALY DEARLY, I DREAM ABOUT IT EVERY NIGHT.” EILA HILTUNEN
01. PHOTO TAKEN IN BASSANO DEL GRAPPA.
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02. PIGEONS ARE GREAT, THESE LITTLE GUYS WERE SO CUTE AND WEREN’T AFRAID TO GET UP CLOSE AND PERSONAL. TAKEN IN FRONT OF THE DUOMO IN MILAN.
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03. NEW DREAM CAR, THE VINTAGE FIAT, SEEN EVERYWHERE IN ITALY. CAPTURED IN ROME.
04. OLD OLYMPIC PARK ENTRANCE IN CORNUDA.
05. THE FIRST WALK TO TIPOTECA IN CORNUDA.
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The beginning of my study abroad experience was a five A.M. wake-up with a fluttering heart, a half-packed suitcase, and nervous parents. I was going to Italy with eleven people I sorta knew to learn about food, culture, design, espresso, food, wine, fashion and food. I was anxious to get going, filling the car with supplies to last me a month abroad. I ushered my parents to the car, urging them to get on the road because I couldn’t be late to check in at the airport. This was probably the first time my dad had driven the speed limit, the ride seemed to take hours. I was leaving the country no matter what, so I don’t know why he chose now to try to be a “safe” driver. After we arrived at the airport and I had passed through security, I took a seat with my friends. As I looked back out the glass wall towards my parents, I saw my mom crying (anything makes her cry, so it wasn’t a big deal) and my dad trying to expedite their departure. I waved and watched them leave after making small talk with Jenny’s mom (also crying). I wasn’t upset by my mom’s tears, I was so pumped to get out of America and not even Ryan Reynolds covered in bacon could keep me here.
We had layovers in Dallas and Miami and eventually boarded a long-delayed flight, on a cramped, out-of-date airplane. I can only describe my excitement by the fact that I would not get up to go to the bathroom on that eight-hour flight because I didn’t want to miss anything. Flying over the ocean. In a silent plane. At night. When everyone was asleep. My excitement and eagerness never subsided throughout the trip and I took advantage of every opportunity I had to meet people, learn about art and design, and explore the beautiful cities we resided in. I chose to study abroad because I wanted to experience a world outside of the West, I wanted to learn to make paper, bind books, letterpress, and be immersed in a foreign culture. I wanted to see the art that I had spent years learning about, see the architecture that is unlike anything in Kansas, much less the United States, taste the fresh Italian food and observe the most beautiful, stylish people in the world. This is my little book of experiences that includes all the flavors of Italy, gelato (due gusti) and a few Americans.
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CH. 001 MILAN
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06. TOP OF THE DUOMO WHERE VISITORS CAN ROAM THE ROOF AND LOOK AT THE INTRICATE ARCHITECTURE AND VIEW THE EXPANSE OF MILAN.
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ACHILLE CASTIGLIONE
Milan was home to one of the most well known industrial designers, Achille Castiglioni. He studied the classics and then became interested in the arts. He graduated from Politecnico di Milano with a degree in architecture. He worked with his brothers Livio and Pier Giacomo, focusing on exhibition design, but also worked on architecture designs. He was one of the founding members of Association for Industrial Design. He won nine “Compasso d’Oro” awards, has work featured in museums worldwide, and “elevated industrial design to the highest levels of culture.” (Flos) Castiglioni passed away in 2002, but his studio has been made into a museum, where the public can visit his work space and see how he lived and created.
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07. PICTURE FROM THE ROOFTOP OF THE DUOMO.
08. CITY OF MILAN TAKEN FROM THE 08
TOP OF THE DUOMO.
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G A LLER I A V I T TO R I O EMA N U E L E I I HELLO. This is a magical place called Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II and it is absolutely stunning. It houses high-end shops that I can only admire from afar because my college bank account and hopeless fashion sense. Construction of this intricate and embellished building began in 1865 by Giuseppe Mengoni.
09. IRON AND GLASS CEILING OF GALLERIA VITTORIO EMANUELE II IN MILAN.
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IL DUOMO
The Duomo was started in Milan in 1386 by Giovanni Antonio Amadeo and took almost six centuries to complete. It is dedicated to St. Mary of the Nativity and is the seat of the Archbishop of Milan. It is the largest church in Italy and the fifth largest in the world - oh my.
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.OMOUD EHT FO ROIRETXE
This was the first cathedral I stepped into on Italian soil. I was awe-struck by its enormity and the embellishments that covered every visible surface. It was being refurbished during our trip, but it is amazing that this building could withstand such a vast amount of time. The inside was just as beautiful, complete with stained glass, frescoes, marble, and sculptures. The lines to get into the building seemed endless, but once we got to the front, we were greeted by Italian soldiers, who sported massive guns and bullet proof vests. Intimidating, but cool.
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Milan was by far my favorite city. It had a lot of people, but didn’t seem overwhelmingly huge and the architecture and landscape was incredible. The people have impeccable taste in clothing, they must all model. I hope to move here once I graduate, get an Italian Greyhound named Gnocchi and live in a small, but cozy apartment with Jenny (we’ve planned this).
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Everyone here is so delightfully put together, friendly and intelligent in every way possible. I am not sure I would fit in here, but I think if I lived there long enough, maybe some of their coolness could rub off on me.
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11. APARTMENT BUILDING IN MILAN LOOKING OVER A NARROW STREET OF SHOPS.
12. CHURCH IN MILAN WITH LARGE PARK SPACE. TAKEN ON BIKE TOUR.
13. FLOWER SHOP ON THE STREET IN MILAN.
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ITALIAN GREETINGS * Buongiorno! (Hello! and Good morning!) * Arrivederci! (Goodbye!) * Ciao! (Hello! and Good-bye!) * Salve! (Hello! and Good-bye!) * Buonasera! (Good afternoon! Good evening!) * Buonanotte! (Good night!) * Come si chiama? (What is your name?) * Come ti chiami? (What is your name?) * Mi chiamo… (My name is. . .) * Come sta? (How are you?) * Come stai? (How are you?) * Bene, grazie. (Fine, thank you.)
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B I C I LE T TE R I N G TO U R I don’t think I have ever ridden a bike for as long as we did on this bike tour. It was a great way to see Milan and get exercise, and also learn about the typography that is hidden throughout the city. It was pretty entertaining watching some of our group struggle to balance on their bikes, trying to avoid falling into oncoming traffic. Our tour guide, James Clough, was an ambitious fellow who weaved in and out of the moving vehicles with ease, abandoning his flock of Americans and then returning once he realized we were at the last stop light.
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We were able to see what felt like most of Milan, and learned a copious amount of information about the beautiful typography scattered around. My favorite type was the fascist, futurist sans serifs because they were such a break from the traditional Roman type that it was unique and exciting.
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14. FASCIST TYPE, AS JAMES WOULD CALL IT. I THINK THIS IS SO INTERESTING BECAUSE IT IS MADE OUT OF BRICKS. I LIKE THAT IT ISN’T PERFECTLY CONSTRUCTED AND THAT EACH LETTER IS A LITTLE DIFFERENT BECAUSE IT MAKES IT UNIQUE. MANY OF THE SANS SERIF TYPEFACES IN MILAN WERE RELIEFS, PROTRUDING FROM THE SURFACE THEY BELONG TO, BUT THIS SET OF TYPE STUCK OUT MUCH MORE THAN THE OTHERS. 17. 16. 15. THIS IS ONE OF THE FIRST EXAMPLES WE RAN INTO ON OUR BIKE TOUR. I REALLY LIKED THIS TYPE BECAUSE OF THE LOW X-HEIGHT AND CONSISTENCY. I FOUND IT INTERESTING HOW THE FORMS WRAP AROUND THIS COLUMN AND ARE CARVED FROM THE MARBLE.
16. THIS SANS SERIF IS DIFFERENT FROM THE OTHERS BECAUSE IT IS MORE RIGID AND GEOMETRIC, WHEREAS THE FIRST TWO WERE 18.
MORE ROUND AND BOLD. THIS IS CONDENSED AND IS SITTING ON AN ORGANIC FORM INSTEAD OF ON A WALL OR FLATTER SURFACE.
17. THIS TYPE IS INTERESTING BECAUSE, LIKE THE OTHERS IT IS THE FASCIST STYLE, BUT HAS A HIGHER X-HEIGHT AND ODD CURVATURES IN PLACES THAT WE DON’T NORMALLY SEE HARD CURVES. IT REMINDS ME OF THE CAMPARI OR APEROL STYLE OF TYPE.
18. FOUND ON THE SIDE OF A BUILDING, THIS IS THE THINNEST AND MOST CONSISTENT TYPE WE HAVE SEEN. I THINK IT WAS PLACED ON THE SURFACE, NOT CARVED FROM IT, WHICH DIFFERENTIATES IT FROM THE OTHERS. THIS IS ALSO THE ROUNDEST AND REMINDS ME OF FUTURA WITHOUT THE HARSH POINTS LIKE ON THE APEX OF THE “A.”
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19. PICTURE OF THE LAST SUPPER. CLASSMATES STANDING IN FRONT OF THE PAINTING TO THE RIGHT.
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ME TAKING A SELFIE WITH JESUS. WHAT ELSE WAS I SUPPOSED TO DO?
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DA V I N C I LA ST SU PPE R We got to see Jesus. I took a selfie with him. I am so happy that I had the opportunity to be able to see such a famous work of art. It was interesting to see in person, it was much different than I expected with scale, location, and detail. It is so amazing to me how it has withstood time and weather and war.
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VENI VIDI AMAVI
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21. CLASSIC SUNDIAL IN THE COURTYARD OF A DESIGN SHOP AND RESTAURANT IN THE HEART
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OF MILAN.
22. I PICTURE OF ME WAITING FOR THE LIGHT TO CHANGE AND CARRY ON OUR DANGEROUS AND THRILLING BIKE TOUR.
23. BEAUTIFUL COLLECTION OF TYPE ON A SHOP SOMEWHERE IN MILAN.
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TRIENN A LE D ES I G N MUSE U M This was probably the coolest design museum I have been to. My favorite exhibit was the feminist collection because it had a wide variety of media, artists, and the displays were unique. There was a long covered bridge that lead us to a door with a fancy “W� on it. It opened into a small dark room where some pieces were suspended from the ceiling and others rested on stands in a spotlight. It then led to a large room with so many pieces of art that were arranged to lead us in a path between them. It ended with multiple TV monitors playing various videos that describe all the ways in which men and women are different.
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Some other exhibitions included Think and Make, a jewelry display on busts, the art of sound, history of technology, and a Pantone Color of the Year collection. They had a great gift shop filled with gorgeous design books, all of which I wish I owned. The main exhibition was XXI Triennale Esposizione Internazionale Milano 2016 (21st Century. Design After Design).
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24. A piece from the feminist exhibit. Displayed at the beginning in the dark room.
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25. The bridge that leads to the women’s exhibit. What a nice “W.” 26. Greeting sign at the entrance of the Triennale.
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27. Sign for main exhibition in the Triennale. One of my favorite signs because the Xs protrude from the wall.
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CH. 002 CORNUDA .82 .HTRAE NO SECALP CINEGOTOHP TSOM EHT FO ENO EHT OT KLAW GNINROM RUO NO NEKAT ERUTCIP
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.ACETOPIT
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TIPOT ECA
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“TYPOGRAPHY IS AN ART. GOOD TYPOGRAPHY IS ART.” PAUL RAND 30.
29. THIS IS LUCIO AND HE HAS MADE MY LIST OF FAVORITE PEOPLE. NOT ONLY IS HE AN AMAZING TYPOGRAPHER AND DESIGNER, BUT HE IS SO SWEET AND CALM, YOU JUST WANT TO DO WHATEVER YOU CAN TO MAKE HIM SMILE.
30. CASES AND CASES OF TYPE IN TIPOTECA, ALL WELL KEPT IN THE MUSEUM, BUT ALSO USED IN THE PRESSES.
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31.
31. PICTURE OF DISPLAY CASE AT THE ENTRANCE OF TIPOTECA. MADE WITH WOOD BLOCK TYPE.
32. VIEW OF THE MANY LETTER PRESS MACHINES IN THEIR OPEN AREA.
33. CLOSE-UP OF THE TYPE WE SET FOR
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LA FONTANA MALATA.
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We began our work at Tipoteca with Claudia Tavella. She taught us to hand letter and the art of calligraphy. Our class was actually more difficult than I anticipated, but it was very enlightening to learn these basics. We started out like kindergarteners and had lines and grids to write in, and I whole-heartedly believe a child would have done better in this situation than I did. After we finished those lessons, we began working with Sandro Berra and Lucio Passerini to create a letterpress book from an Italian poem. The poem we worked with is La Fontana Malta by Aldo Palazzeschi.
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34. PHOTO TAKEN ON THE BRIDGE IN BASSANO DEL GRAP-
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PA. CUTEST LITTLE TOWN WE VISITED.
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CH. 003 BASSANO DEL GRAPPA
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Grappa is a grape-based pomace brandy. It’s taste varies by grape and is made by distilling all of the grape leftover from the winemaking pressing process. To be grappa it must be produced in Italy or in the Italian part of Switzerland, produced from pomace, and fermentation and distillation must occur on the pomace. It is served after dinner to help digest heavy meals. It is served in shot glasses and sipped on.
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35. ISN’T THAT A PRETTY DOOR? SO MUCH CHARM IN BASSANO. 36. VIEW OF THE RIVER FROM THE OTHER SIDE OF THE BRIDGE.
37. BUILDINGS THAT LINE THE RIVER.
38. ANDREA AND JAKE WALKING DOWN A STREET IN BASSANO.
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39. EXAMPLE OF ROMAN TYPOGRAPHY ON A WALL IN BASSANO.
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SAMPLE OF FASCIST TYPE PROTRUDING FROM THE WALL,
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VERY SIMILAR TO FUTURA.
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“TYPOGRAPHY IS TWO-DIMENSIONAL ARCHITECTURE, BASED ON EXPERIENCE AND IMAGINATION, AND GUIDED BY RULES AND READABILITY.” HERMAN ZAPF 40.
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CH. 004 VENICE 41.
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41. VIEW GONDOLA AND GONDOLA DRIVER (DON’T KNOW THE ACTUAL TERM).
42. FLOATING DOWN A CANAL IN VENICE WITH OUR ATTRACTIVE GUIDE.
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A CALM MORNING IN VENICE, TAKING THE WATER TAXI.
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44. OUTSIDE SAN MARCO BASILICA.
45. TOOK THIS WALKING ALONG THE CANAL WAITING FOR A WATER TAXI.
46. A NEON SIGN THAT IS IN THE COURTYARD OF PEGGY GUGGENHEIM’S MUSEUM.
47. CAPTURED THIS SCENE STANDING ON A BRIDGE IN VENICE.
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We took a break from Cornuda to explore the canals and mazes of Venice. I am usually good at navigating through cities, but Venice was very foreign to me and hard to understand with the water and streets. I chose to stick with the group because I did not trust myself to get back to the train in time to leave for Cornuda once the day was over. We went to the Basilica Cattedrale Patriarcale di San Marco first, which was overwhelmingly covered in gold. No inch was spared in embellishment or jewel. I am in awe of the structures in Italy because of how perfect the constructors could make the geometry and decoration without the technology we have. We then took a water taxi to Peggy Guggenheim’s house, which is now a museum. I hope that one day I can be her because she owned an unbelievable amount of dogs with surprisingly short lifespans, was friends with brilliant artists, and collected famous works of art like they were movie ticket stubs. I think if she was alive, we would be good friends. Another goal of Jenny and mine is to follow in her footsteps.
We then settled on a place to eat, which was never really an issue because nothing ever tasted bad there. Ever. We walked around the streets, looking at shops and searching for a cute gondola guide. At one point we lost Sarah, abandoning her in a CoOp. We realized we left her and ran back to rescue her. Venice is an interesting place, and a must-have kind of experience, but I think one day was enough for me. I’m not a equipped to handle water navigation.
HAVE A SPRITZ
Ingredients: 2 oz Prosecco, 1 1/4 oz Aperol, Splash of Soda water Prep: Build into glass over ice, garnish and serve
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49.
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48. VIEWS FROM THE WATER.
49. A CUTE LITTLE COURTYARD GARDEN.
50. ABOVE THE WATER ON A BRIDGE AFTER FINDING SARAH.
51. CAPTURED WHILE ON THE GONDOLA EXCUR-
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SION – THAT WAS SHORT-LIVED.
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“WHEN I SEEK ANOTHER WORD FOR ‘MUSIC,’ I NEVER FIND ANY OTHER WORD THAN ‘VENICE.’” FRIEDRICH NIETZSCHE 51.
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52. TAKEN WALKING DOWN THE ALLEY IN FABRIANO.
53. MOUNTAINS OUTSIDE A CAVE WE
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TOOK A DAY TRIP TO.
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CH. 005 FABRIANO
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“LOOK AT ME NOW, LOOK AT ME NOW, I’M [MAKIN’] PAPER”
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CHRIS BROWN
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55. 54. THAT’S ME. I AM MAKING PAPER. GOOD TIMES.
55. PICTURE OF THE SIGN AT THE MUSEUM WHERE WE HAD OUR WORKSHOPS.
56. PROCESS OF THE BOOKBINDING.
57. ANOTHER COOL ALLEY.
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Fabriano is a small town where it seems like everyone knows everyone. Many of the buildings look like castles and the city center is maybe a square mile. The people seemed pretty edgy in a stylish way and the guys really pulled it off.
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We spent our time in the Museo della Carta e della Filigrana making paper, watermarks, and bookbinding. I made my watermark a giraffe because it was a running joke that it is my spirit animal (this is still under debate, in my opinion). I was the first one to try to make paper by putting a screen with our watermarks in a pit of cotton pulp and water. I failed miserably. Yeah, I know, surprising. But… the second round, I completely nailed it, I don’t even need seven years of apprenticeship because I am a natural paper maker. We also made a book out of the paper we created, bound it and wrapped it in leather. The other book we made was a photo album where we impressed leaves and flora into the leather.
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58. FOUND SOME GUESS MODELS ON THE STREET, SO I ASKED TO TAKE A PICTURE. (NOT REALLY, THAT’S US, BUT WE
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ARE ALL WEARING DENIM SO THATS COOL.)
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59. I TOOK THIS PICTURE WHILE ROAMING THE STREETS OF FABRIANO WITH EVERYONE, SCOPING OUT THE LANDSCAPE AND GETTING A FEEL OF THE TOWN.
60. ALSO TAKEN ON OUR WALK AROUND THE CITY.
61. CHURCH THAT WAS NEXT TO THE PAPER MUSEUM. A WEDDING WAS HELD HERE EARLIER IN THE WEEK, SO WE PEEKED IN.
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CH. 006 ROME .26 MORF GNITRAPED .NOITATS NIART EHT
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.AMOR OT TEG OT ONAIRBAF
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63.
63. IN FRONT OF THE TREVI FOUNTAIN. DON’T THINK I DIDN’T PUSH MY WAY THROUGH A MASS OF BODIES TO GET THIS PICTURE. AND YES THIS IS WHERE LIZZIE MCGUIRE STARRED IN HER ROLE OF A LIFETIME.
64. MONUMENT TO VITTORIO EMANUELE II, A WAR MUSEUM IN ROME.
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A FOUNTAIN IN A PIAZZA NEAR OUR HOTEL.
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Rome was a great way to end our trip. I wish we could have spent more time there because there were endless amounts of things to see. I love Rome, its strange city structure, beautiful architecture, rich art history and the food (obviously). I got to see the Trevi Fountain, Pantheon, Piazza Navona, Colosseum and the Forum. In two days. The weather was perfect when we were there, maybe a little toasty, but so gorgeous and sunny. At this point in the trip, I was not ready to leave, I didn’t miss home or anything about America except that the bacon was different and they don’t eat peanut butter (what?)
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66. THE ARCH OF TITUS.
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A BRIEF HISTORY
A BROADER PERSPECTIVE OF THE FORUM.
The Forum is the remnants of early Roman history. It began with temples and public buildings and soon turned into a public gathering place for all forms of activity. It was an important area not just for Rome but for the majority of Europe. As time passed and newer buildings appeared, it became hard to differentiate between old and new.
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68.
68. INSIDE THE FORUM, BOTTOM LEVEL.
69. AT THE ENTRANCE INSIDE THE FORUM.
70. TOWARDS THE MIDDLE OF THE FORUM, A SMALL POND AND FLOWER BED.
71. A LOOKOUT OVER ALL OF THE FORUM.
72. ANOTHER VIEW OF THE FORUM FROM ABOVE.
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The forum was so interesting to me because of how much was fit into this space. Everything is so close. There are so many different structures and ruins, it is hard to imagine what it was like when it was at the crux of its utilization. I am always amazed (saying this again, I know) with how much early civilizations were able to accomplish. Their materials were heavy, weren’t always native to the area, and their execution was magnificent and exact. From the courtyard, you can look out over all of the Forum and at Rome. Happy I got to spend some time here and look at old beauty.
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73. BACK OF THE PANTHEON, I LIKED THE DETAIL AND PLANTS ON IT.
74. THE FRONT OF THE PANTHEON.
THE PANTHEON
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75. INSIDE; THE ARCHITECTURE IS
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STUNNING.
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PANTHEON The Pantheon is a church in Rome, commissioned by Marcus Agrippa and completed by the emperor Hadrian. It is circular and has a portico of Corinthian columns under a pediment. Inside, there is an oculus that is open to the sky. It’s height and diameter are the same and it is the world’s largest uninforced concrete dome. It has been preserved so well because of its constant use.
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76.
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76. THE COLOSSEUM.
77. LOOKING OUT ONE OF THE OPENINGS IN THE COLOSSEUM TOWARDS THE FORUM.
78. WE SAW AN OPERA AT SALONE MARGHERITA (COULDN’T
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UNDERSTAND A WORD).
79. A BEAUTIFUL BUILDING I FOUND WHILE EXPLORING ROME.
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THE PALS 062
80. FROM LEFT TO RIGHT. SAM, CAROLINE, SARAH, ME, HALEY, JENNY, JAKE AND HAYLEE.
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Just wanted to dedicate a little section to the people that made this trip so memorable and so much fun. Sarah, Jake, Jenny, Sam, Haley, Caroline, Haylee, Liz, Linda and Andrea were the best group of people to travel with. These are my buddies and I just wanna show them some love.
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CIAO
I think about my trip to Italy almost everyday. I miss having a spritz after every workshop and saying “una coppetta, due gusti.” I miss having Jenny’s foot somehow working its way into my bed even though I hated it. I miss Lucio and Sandro and Italian Cameron Diaz. I miss acknowledging and absorbing every aspect of what I was witnessing. I miss the wine and the food – I think I had the best steak of my life there. I can’t wait to move to Milan and find an Italian husband. Hey, Italy? This isn’t “goodbye.” It’s “see ya later.”
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