Modesty 1
CONTENTS
0411 1241 4253 5473
INTRODUCTION
SECONDARY RESEARCH
PRIMARY RESEARCH
THE MARKET
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CONTENTS
CHLOE LEBOW N044763 WORD COUNT: 8798 FASH 3108
7491
THE BIG IDEA
92131
ROUTE TO CONSUMER
132157
REFERENCES
APPENDIX
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158256
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Intro
5
Modest Style
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Fig 1. Modest street style (2016)
‘Fashion is having a love affair with covering up that goes way beyond just the faithful.’ (Marisa Melzer, Journalist, 2016) This report will discuss and examine the topic of modesty in relation to fashion. The objectives are to understand the modest consumer’s needs, address them and to challenge social perceptions towards modesty in the media and fashion industry. Modesty in relation to fashion is a complex subject, encompassing different religious and cultural requirements and values, which after investigation, will give insight into the way the modest market is today with regards to fashion retail purchasing. Modesty has always been a way of dressing in certain cultures and religions, but is now also becoming part of the fashion landscape and adopted by mainstream women, who for many reasons want to be more covered up.
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New interest in modest fashion is opening up the world of
fashion to religious groups who have previously been an overlooked sector of the consumer market (Janmohamed,
2016). Forbes, Sales and Marketing analysts predicted in 2013
‘The next big untapped market would be Muslim women.’ Interest in modest fashion has been growing steadily in recent
years, reaching a peak in 2015, with the rise of religious fashion bloggers. It is now becoming an established and emulated trend.
Amidst all the negative hype surrounding the wearing of
hijabs, a group of young Muslim women made a video in 2014 called Mipsterz (Muslim meets hipster) which went
viral immediately. ‘They’re media savvy, ultra chic and have
thousands of Instagram followers but the new muslim icons
also have a cool way with the hijab’ (Ismat Sarah Mangla, 2015). ‘Modest women are ‘a part of an emergent cross-
faith transnational youth subculture of modest fashion.’
(Lewis,2015) In 2015, aware of the interest and untapped consumer buying power, a number of fashion brands featured Islamic wear among their collections, aimed to coincide with
Ramadan. One example of a specific collection for Ramadan was by the New York based fashion label DKNY. ‘Tapping
into the general euphoric spirit of Ramadan.’ (Vogue, 2015)
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‘I think there is a quietness in it which is interesting’ (Goldman 2015)
The trickle down effect is now visible in the high street,
however, there is clearly still a demand for young fashionable modest clothing which is currently not being met by the fashion industry and the reasons for this will be investigated.
The generation of young modest women living in 2016 are having to negotiate the different contradictory influences
between their faith community and the young style community.
(Balasescu, A (2003). These women are religious and modest but at the same time want to live a modern life and not be
excluded from online activity, which for their generation has become a way of life. Finding ways to resolve this dichotomy is at the heart of this investigation.
The ‘Muslim futurists’, as they have become known as, live life in a way which they see fit to stay faithful, combined with a modern life style. This group of people have openly discussed
their desires to be ‘fashion-forward’, whilst simultaniously meeting their religious needs.w (Janmohamed, 2016).
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Adam and Eve
Anglo Saxon 800
Norman 1100
Medieval 1300
Modest
Modest 2016
Yuppy 1980
Hippie 1970
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Casual 1960
Elizabethan 1500
Tudor 1600
Georgian 1750
Leg O Mutton 1830
timeline
Glamour 1940
Silhouette 1920
Victorian 1900
Crinoline 1860
Fig 2. Modest fashion timeline (2016)
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12
Secondary Research
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ORIGINS
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Fig 3. Adam and Eve (2013)
‘WE HAVE BESTOWED RAIMENT UPON YOU TO COVER YOUR SHAME, AS WELL AS TO BE AN ADORNMENT TO YOU. BUT THE RAIMENT OF RIGHTEOUSNESS THAT IS (Surah 7:26) THE BEST’ ‘YOUR BODIES ARE THE TEMPLE OF THE HOLY SPIRIT WHO IS IN YOU, WHOM YOU HAVE FROM GOD AND THAT YOU ARE NOT ON YOUR OWN FOR YOU HAVE BEEN BOUGHT AT A GREAT PRICE. GLORIFY AND CARRY (Thomas, 1899) GOD’S BODY.’ ‘THERE IS AN OVERRIDING ASSUMPTION THAT NAKEDNESS IS ASSOCIATED WITH SHAMENESS.’ (Thomas, 1899)
Modesty is a part of cultural history and is very closely aligned to the creation of organised religions. Quotes from the Holy texts identify the meaning of modesty in relation to the prime religions, although there is no one theory for all faiths of the origin of modesty.
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Religion
Definition • •
Christian
Dress to please God No law laid down but encouraged to dress bearing in mind the doctrine of St Paul Should not flaunt body to the opposite sex Dress in a way that reflects inner modesty Not dress provocatively Dress appropriately in context
• • • •
• • • • • •
Honour Allah Only show body and hair to husband Appear graceful Clothes must not emphasize body shape Very religious Muslim women only show hands and feet Tzniut is the term used to mean your identity equals your inner self
Jewish
• • • •
Dress to please God Only show body and hair to husband Should not flaunt body Tzniut is the term used to mean your identity equals your inner self (likewise to Muslims)
Amish
• • • • • •
Dress modestly to please God Simplicity is key in style and fabric Not to draw attention to self, everyone should be equal Observant women wear uniform dress Heads should be covered Not attract attention from opposite sex
Islamic
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Text ‘The outward ornaments of the body should be consistent with the appropriate inward ornaments of the heart, the quiet spirit and the benevolent deeds’
Peter and Paul ‘I also want the women to dress modestly, with decency and propriety, adorning themselves’
Quote ‘Our clothes don’t need to scream Christian, but they should quietly say modest, appropriate and carefully chosen’
The Christian Working Woman
Timothy 2:10
‘Modesty is a part of faith, and that part of faith must lie in the heart’
Prophet, Mohammed
‘I’d like to think I’ve found a balance between what my religion asks of me and how I choose to create my own style’
Lubna Hassan (blogger)
‘I love following trends but I never sacrifice my values for them’
Maryam Asadullah
‘Man looks at the outer appearance but God looks at the heart’
Samuel 16:7
‘Your beauty should not consist of outward things like elaborate hair styles and the wearing of gold ornaments or fine clothes. Instead, it should consist of what is inside the heart with a gentle and kind spirit’
Peter 3:3
‘The basics of modesty may seem restrictive but really the options are infinite’
Talya Bendell (fashion sales)
‘Modesty is about presenting yourself with a sort of class and beauty that commands respect and allows others to see you for who you are’ Yoneat Green (student) ‘We have a responsibility to men to help them not lust but that does not mean every inch of skin needs to be covered’
Natasha (blogger)
‘We don’t dress different just to be different, we dress different because we want to represent modesty’
Anna (blogger)
Fig 4. Religon chart 1 (2016)
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Key Insights Through secondary research into various religions, key insights were identified to highlight the importance of modest dressing across many religions. •
The importance of clothing as an expression of faith and humility is paramount
•
‘Tzniut’, the word used to describe the meaning of modesty, is the same in Jewish
•
across various religions.
and Muslim religions showing a historic link between both faiths.
The quotes demonstrate an acceptance and respect for the rules of dressing in an understated fashion but with some allowances for individuality.
Research has shown that most people who choose to dress modestly in this country are observant Jews, Muslims and Christians for whom the prime reason is to cover flesh. Within these religions, there are different opinions as to how much flesh should be covered up and under which garments. Modesty means different things to different people but to most people who dress modestly for religious reasons, it is about respecting your body, which in many religions is viewed as sacred. It is also about dressing for self worth and reserving ones beauty for within marriage, but primarily for the glory of God.
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Rules and regulations for religious women
• • • • • • •
Whole arm covered Neck covered Trousers Sandals Heels Jewellery No provocative clothing
• •
• •
Elbows covered Collar bone covered
• •
Trousers sandals Crop tops if meet waist line
• • • • • •
• • • • •
Not too bright (especially no red) No bare legs No slits in skirts No trousers No linen/wool mix
Strapless OK with t-shirt under modest neckline
No halter necks No strapless High waistline Skirt max 2 inches above the knee Simple Jewellery Any colours
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Fig 5. Venn diagram (2016)
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Fig 6. Muslim woman wearing makeup (2015)
Is it Modest? There are different levels of modesty within
Displays of wealth through dress are accepted
you live in as to how it is enforced. In Iran and
as modesty does not necessarily mean being
religions and much depends upon which country
Saudi Arabia, despite Sharia law, some women
appear physically and financially ostentatious while being almost entirely concealed by their
clothing. (Laver, J 1969). Are these Muslim women flaunting the rules of modesty in order to still look feminine and attractive?
Is their desire to be attractive more important
to them than their religious doctrines and wishes of their husbands?
It could be argued, that wearing heavy makeup
is contradictory to wearing a head covering or other religious clothes to cover the body. One
is designed to make the wearer more glamorous while the other is intended to make her more
plain. Following a ‘thread’ on Ummah (online
muslim community), opinions were mixed on
this but most people agreed that using makeup
in moderation was acceptable as part of a woman’s normal grooming routine to make her feel good about herself (Ummah, 2016).
even in the stricted religious communities,
dowdy or plain. Wearing makeup, painting nails and wearing fashion shoes is all a part of ‘being a woman’ and as long as she is covered
and not overtly sexual, a woman can call herself modest. Due to the personal nature
of modesty, modest clothing, and beliefs, it is hard to measure the extent to which a person is modest. (Ismat, 2015) It
therefore could be argued, that overly
made up or fashionable religious women are not modest enough. However, some small
allowances permit them to live their lives in
accordance with their religious beliefs and those of their family, and still express their
individuality. The insight gained from this
is that there is plenty of scope for fashion to manifest itself in the modesty market, for
example creating ranges of accessories, hijabs, shoes, bags jewelry to co-ordinate with outfits.
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The lure of the label
•
Wearing items with designer labels could be a status symbol
•
Adds definition and a touch of class
• • • •
Some women like the classic timeless heritage look which compliments their outfits Peer pressure to conform so they are simply trying to fit in and not appear conspicuously poor in countries that are predominately wealthy
Keeping their dignity by the unspoken declaration of being part of a wealthy family or community
Because their bodies are mostly covered, accessorizing with bags, heels etc. allows a small opening for self expression
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‘O CHILDREN OF ADAM, YOU SHALL BE CLEAN AND DRESS NICELY WHEN YOU GO TO THE MASJID BUT YOU WILL BE ADORNED THEREIN WITH BRACELETS OF GOLD, YOU WILL WEAR CLOTHES OF GREEN SILK’ (Koran: 731)
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Religon
Christian
Attitudes to fashion
Many young Christians enjoy dressing fashionably. Generation Ceder, a Christian website, has an extremely long comments discussion thread, which shows that fashion is a hot topic
‘Modesty is a lifestyle not a passing trend. Something they are committed to for life’
(Roshan Isaacs, Islamic fashion and design council)
Islamic
‘Fashion and dressing modestly are not mutually exclusive’
(Sobia Masood, Blogger)
‘I see my generation adapting with the times. Recently, I have noticed orthodox women dressing more fashionably and trendy’
Jewish
(Talya Bendel, fashion sales)
‘Fashion meeting modesty is allowing Jewish women to feel more part of the secular world’
(Elisheva Rishon, fashion blogger)
Amish
Observant Amish women will wear a standard uniform and will not deviate
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Adjustment to contemporary society •
Attitudes to social media
Christians are not allowed to draw attention to themselves but can wear small pieces of jewellery and are allowed to pierce one ear Christians can follow new styles as long as it is not too revealing. Young modest Christians dress mosty in mainstream fashion clothing
•
Christians make wide use of technology, including using the internet for blogging and social media
•
Orthodox Muslims generally wear dark clothes and do not pay heed to fashion. Most wear hijabs but these days many have adapted it as a fashion accessory as well as a religious garment
•
•
There is a new wave of younger muslim women who are mixing generic brands with their own items of clothing
Young Muslim women are as technically minded as their non-religious counterparts, using social media and smartphones as the main methods of communication
•
•
Wearing makeup, painting nails and wearing jewellery, high heels and expensive bags is a common practice amongst some Muslim women
There are many blogging sites on fashion for example Maryam Asadullah (online shop and blogger) has more than 1000 Instagram followers
•
Orthodox Jewish women do not make any concessions to fashion. They wear dark clothes, mostly black. Less religious younger women choose items from mainstream fashion and adapt them to conform to modesty laws
•
Young women adapt fashion clothing and now are creating their own style, which is influencing mainstream fashion
•
Young women wear some makeup but more attention is paid to hair styles
•
Bags, shoes and jewellery are usually fairly modest
•
Amish like to keep themselves seperate but not exclusive. Dressing distinctively is a way of ensuring this. They do not wear makeup or cut their hair. They do not use accessories. They do not drive or have any electronics
• •
‘I love following trends but never sacrifice my values for them’ • • • • •
•
Social media particularly Instagram is inspiring bloggers Religious Jews don’t use the internet at all Some orthodox only go on certain legitimate websites, so they will not encounter undesirable content Young women use the internet widely but discerningly. They use mobile phones as much as anyone else and go on blogging sites Some consider shopping online as a social activity with friends They don’t own modern technology as they do not want to be ‘wired-up’ to the world, or influenced by western values and to preserve their unique way of life
Fig 7. Religion chart 2 (2016)
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Key Insights Insights after completing spreadsheet 2 (Religion chart 2): •
Only certain women from certain religions are really involved in this debate on style. Other categories of women are
•
The way the women find a relationship to style is different from each other for instance Muslim women tend to use
•
not interested in fashion and therefore would not be included in any research.
makeup to look attractive and paint their nails, whereas Jewish women are more likely to use hair to enhance their looks.
Non-religious Christian, Jewish and Muslim women will be the potential consumer base for research.
•
The three religions have no restrictions regarding accessories or make up even though the holy texts do advocate not
•
Although it is usual to wear understated garments, low heeled shoes and little or no make up, these customs are
•
spending attention to outward appearances.
passed down and not everyone adheres to them. The key point here being that one’s beauty should be saved for one’s husband.
In order to ensure they are not flaunting themselves to the opposite sex, religious Jewish, married women wear
wigs so that only their husbands can see their own hair. Originally, these wigs or ‘sheitels’ were very unflattering and starched but these days, especially among younger women, the wigs are more lush and glamorous than their
•
normal hair.
Ironically, it would seem to defy the purpose as their own hair, hidden from light and flattened is probably not attractive at all to their husbands whereas their wigs probably makes them attractive to everyone who meets them.
There is much debate regarding this topic in the Jewish religion, however modern orthodox women believe that it is down to themselves and their husband to do as they see fit.
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External It is rare to find a religious Jewish woman of any generation who is married
and who does not cover her hair which shows a complete acceptance of this
important doctrine. The fact that this law has been compromised to fit into
modern times by allowing wigs to be realistic and stylish has helped prolong its observance.
‘It is a feature of Judaism to adapt and make changes to external appearance
in order to blend in to which ever country or community they moved into.’ (Rebetzen Ilana Epstein, Rabbi’s wife 2016)
Fig 8. Jewish woman wig shopping (2016)
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‘IDENTIFYING YOUR BRAND ARCHETYPE WILL SAVE YOU TIME AND MONEY AND CONNECT YOU INSTANTLY TO YOUR AUDIENCE.’ (Sparkol, 2015)
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Consumer archetypes (faith) Women who are religious but not ultra - they are allowed personal expression. Within this group there are: Creative women who make their own clothes Women who to use clothing to show off the brand Women who use clothing to make themselves look more attractive Women who want to dress modestly as it is in fashion Women who want to use dress to identify with their faith
Consumer archetypes (non-faith) Women who are not religious but wish to dress modestly for other reasons. Within this group there are: Older women and wish to conceal parts of their body Overweight women who want loose fitting clothes Women who want to dress more comfortably Women who want to protect themselves from strong sunlight Women who want to dress modestly as it is in fashion
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Fig 9. Consumer archetypes (2016)
Modesty Today Up untill the 14th Century, clothing was considered to be a fundamental procedure to cover the body. ‘It was the second half of
the fourteenth century that clothes for both
men and women took on new forms, and
something emerges which we can already
call fashion.’ (Laver, J 2002, p 62). This marks the invention of fashion and was the
first sign of women pushing the boundaries and realizing the power of their bodies.
Being a woman of any religion in 2016, and
trying to keep up with modest traditions and laws, is more difficult now than ever.
(Mathis, C, Haris R and Gorton, T (2015).
There are so many more distractions with the internet and social media sites such
as Facebook and Twitter. Peer pressure
makes it hard for any young woman to avoid getting caught up,
for example, sending
pictures for millions of people to see would seem to be immodest behaviour to older
generations, however it is acceptable to the younger generation of women. (Meltzer,
M. 2015)
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‘Thanks to social media, these women are able to connect through their mutual respect for religion and love for fashion inspiring other women to do the same’ (Business Insider, 2015)
Exposing
themselves
via
the
internet to the entire world could make them vulnerable to abuse
and criticism from those who judge them as victims of male oppression.
(Read J, 2003). However, social
media has enhanced their shopping experiences and made it easier to find suitable clothing, (Business
Insider UK Sept 2015). This is proof that there can be a solution for
the modest modern woman today.
However, there are limited sites and platforms for this type of consumer
in the 21st Century. (Tariq, B 2014)
Fig 10. Girl using social media illustration (2016)
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Contributory factors regarding the growing popularity of the modest style and trend: •
•
•
•
The increase in the number of Muslims in the
UK: approximately 3 million (Muslim Council,
2015)
The rise in popularity of young people returning to their religious roots (Telegraph,
2016)
A backlash against the very immodest clothing that began in the 1960’s and reached a peak in the last 20 years (F T, Ruby 2006)
Celebrities setting the trend (possibly as an escape from the media who are obsessed with scrutinizing and criticizing women’s bodies.)
There are other current conflicting trends at the other end of
the scale to modesty, such as the very brash and openly sexual statements being made by influential celebrities like Beyonce, Miley Cyrus and Kim Kardashian. These are just some of the
very infulential names in 2016. ‘These celebrities are a ‘new
religion’ with their own subgroups.’ (Charismanews, 2015)
However, by pushing the boundaries to the extreme, these
celebrities are helping to drive the modesty trend, as some
secular women are becoming modest as a reaction to the hyper sexual environment they find themselves in. Celebrities are
also involved in this debate wearing more modest designer
clothing. Emma Watson, an advocate for modesty and feminism quoted ‘The less you reveal, the more people wonder’.
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‘Immodesty is a behaviour situation that contrasts sharply with those to which a person has been intensely habituated.’ (Laver, 1959, P. 10)
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Fig 11. Miley Cyrus (2016)
Modesty Role Models
Fig 12. Kate Middleton (2014)
•
Worldwide following
•
Her modest wedding dress inspired millions of designers and brides all over the world (Marie Claire, 2015).
• •
Outfits showcased on her style blog
Debbie Shatzkes, a 29 year old blogger describes her as ‘the gold standard of modesty’. 34
Fig 14. Olsen twins (2016)
Fig 13. Mayim Bialik (2015)
Famous Jewish Orthodox actress Mayim Bialik often photographed on the red carpet in different modest dresses, which she reviews on her blog. Fashion award-winning Mary-Kate and Ashley Olsen have been photographed wearing relatively modest clothing over the past year, which has boosted their sales (Guardian, 2015)
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JANUARY
2015
FEBRUARY MARCH
•
The beauty and diversity of of Muslim life (Ted Talks)
• •
Modesty catwalk show at Washington DC Fashion week Christian Fashion week USA
•
Modest fashion awards
•
BBC programme: The Muslim Beauty Pageant and me
•
BBC: Muslim designers mix hijab with latest fashion
•
Christian fashion week UK
APRIL MAY
JUNE
•
JULY
AUGUST 36
The Art of Modesty show
2016
•
Muslim-American fashion modesty identity show
•
Inayah Hijab Popup store launch
•
International modest fashion week, Istanbul
•
Saverah women expo
•
BBC Radio 1: High Street Hijabs
•
IMDF Festival, South America
• •
Islamic fashion week Muslim lifestyle Exhibiton UK
•
•
Modest fashion week, Kuala Lumpar
Faith Fashion Fusion show, Canberra Australia Fig 15. Cultural Calendar (2016)
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The BBC broadcast a feature on religious Muslim designers
who participate in mainstream fashion called ‘Muslim designers mix hijab with latest fashion’.
‘The Muslim beauty pageant and me’ was also aired in May 2015 on BBC which revolved around Dina Torkia who has a huge showcasing for her modest blog.
Tom Rowley of the Telegraph in his review, queried how
female modesty can find a place in the glitzy irreverent world of the beauty pageant.
Insights gained from the Cultural Calendar: • • • •
There is a rising interest in Islamic designers .
The media and events are driving the modesty trend forward.
There is very little event coverage for modesty that isn’t connected to Muslim fashion.
Interest in modest fashion is worldwide.
‘BBC 3 allowed the 25 year old to base the entire programme around not only her attempt to win the contest, but a wider life story. Even her clothing line was given a plug.’ (Rowley, The Telegraph, 2015)
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Fig 16. Dina Torkia (2015)
Modesty Offshoot As well as the people who dress modestly
The danger with commercializing the trend in
whom modesty is the new ‘sexy’. (Julie, P
fashion trend that could disappear next year
for faith or self respect, there are others to
2015) This is contradictory but at the same
time understandable as until recently it has generally been considered that ‘less is more’.
Consumers who are buying into the look in order to seem classy and sexy
are also
driving the trend. Fashion boutiques and
websites with names like ‘Sexy Modest’ and ‘Modest is Hottest’ are endorsing covering up but in a commercial and suggestive way.
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this way is that it can make it into a temporary and be replaced by something new. This is contrary to some experts predictions. ‘Modest fashion has sparked a global movement that’s
here to stay.’ (Khan, A founder and chairman
of Islamic Fashion and Design Council, 2016)
Fig 17. Modesty t-shirt (2016)
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Primary Research
Focus Group Responses
‘Covered yet well worn’ ‘Conceals the body but looks nice’ ‘I want to make it accessible and fashionable to be modest’ ‘I find the same style in every store. It is hard to be inspired by modest bloggers without copying’
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‘Fashion alongside religion’ ‘If my husband doesn’t think it’s modest, it isn’t’ ‘I don’t want to just cover my body, I want to look good’ ‘I want to cover up without looking frumpy’ ‘I am not modest for religious reasons but for my body type, they do offer curve sections but I find it ill fitting’
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QUESTIONNAIRE
A questionnaire was posted to modest fashion bloggers and potential customers (see appendix). The aim of this was to find out more about the consumer in preparation for follow up questions in a focus group. Majority prefer to shop online - spent up to £30 fortnightly Difficulty finding clothes on the high street
Not everyone has the freedom to make choices Influenced mainly by modest celebrities
Being fashionable is desirable but in keeping with faith
STREET INTERVIEWS Street interviews were conducted in a multicultural area of North London, asking people what the word ‘modest’ meant to them. Answers were diverse due to the mixed demographic of neighbourhood In general, younger women spoke more about fashion
Not everyone (particularly older women) has the freedom to make choices
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Fig 18. Key insight table (2016)
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Fig 19. Modest girls interviewed (2016)
Fig 20. Melanie Elturk (2015)
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Melanie Elturk Interviewing Melanie Elturk, the co owner of Haute Hijab, (UK hijab modest fashion website) provided
good insight into the modest fashion market and confirmed previously held hints of a gap in the market (see appendix).
‘I think there is an assumption that Islamic and
modest women in general don’t care about fashion
which is of course untrue. I think there is a huge gap
in the market.’
Rabbi’s wife and Mormon Two women were interviewed separately; •
A Rabbi’s wife who is a clothing historian and who’s lectures provided useful background information (see appendix).
•
A member of the local Mormon community
Insight gained: The relationship between religion and fashion is really the preoccupation of the younger generation. The baby boomer generation and Generation X will not be target consumers. The research shows that although many older women like to look stylish and chic, demand is higher for younger women to be included in the fashion landscape.
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Shopping expedition A shopping expedition with three modest
women was arranged. This was useful qualitive
research as it was possible to ask questions and observe the shopping behaviours of potential consumers. The insight gained showed the
diffculty in finding modest clothing with
ease. The shopping trip lasted over 8 hours, which shows the sheer struggle for these
consumers and the large gap in the market. Empathetic
research
was
conducted
with
the researcher and three friends who do not normally dress modestly. The participants spent the day shopping dressed in modest clothing
(see Primary research: appendix). Recording
the feelings that this experience generated
provided an insight into the modest woman’s lifestyle helping to define the target consumer
and strengthening suspicions that there is a gap in the market for fashionable modest clothing.
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Focus group A focus group was held with five modest girls of Generation Y from different religious backgrounds and also those of no particular faith. •
Most took inspiration from modest bloggers
•
Modest websites too prescriptive to particular faiths instead of general modesty
•
Modest fashion in shops mostly old fashioned, basic and difficult to negotiate
•
Majority were on line shoppers
•
Use social media sites and magazines for looking at what people are wearing
•
Would welcome an easier buying experience
Insight gained from these discussions was: •
The difficulty they had in finding fashionable modest clothing which is also not addressed in magazines, store displays or mannequins.
•
There is a strong hint here that these women are being under-represented.
•
It transpired that they spend a lot of time shopping at a variety of online sites because it is quicker than pacing round the shops, trying to pair the appropriate garments but they would prefer to try on clothes.
•
All were enthusiastic about the idea of a concession or online boutique.
•
There was a genuine enthusiasm and excitement from the group about the prospect of something new coming along that would understand their needs.
•
It was apparent that some of these young women have evolved a modest trend of their own. By making use of what outfits were available to them, and adapting them to make them more modest, for example; teaming a long sleeved t-shirt under a strapless dress or layering a petticoat to add length to a skirt.
•
The need for them to be resourceful is a direct result of stores ‘not speaking their language.’ The outcome is that a new street look has emerged which is influencing the fashion world who are beginning to listen to them. ‘My modesty does not prevent me from buying fashion-forward clothing. On the contrary, it is the reason I have a unique sense of style.’ (Honig, M, Vogue, 2016)
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Fig 21. Harajuku girls (2014)
Looking into other cultures that practice modesty, a visit to Japan sparked off an interest in ethnography and in Japanese fashion, especially as their whole ethos has always been traditionally very modest. Although some of the Harajuko girls looked quite outrageous, many were still keeping to the rules of modesty. Insight gained is that modesty appears to be deeply embedded in many cultures. (Laver J, 2002)
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The Market
‘The female Muslim consumer has arrived. Beneath the stereotypes and political narratives is a consumer segment that is crying out for brands to reach out to them. Modest women are waiting to be recognised, served and reflected on the high street’ (Janmohamed, 2016)
‘For them, faith, progress and modernity are not antithetical. They are inseparable. They want and expect it all.’ (Robinson, 2015)
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It would seem from secondary and primary research that a gap in the market exists for a modest
clothing concession within larger stores. Indications are that it could be a very popular solution. However, reasons as to why that service is not already in place needs to be investigated.
One reason why high street brands are not stocking ‘modest’ clothing collections may stem from a lack of understanding of the potential size of the market. However, experts predict the modest
clothing market could be worth ÂŁ100m a year in the UK alone (Daily Mail 2015). In 2014, Islamic
modest fashion sector expenditure reached $230 billion worldwide and will be worth $327 billion by 2020 (Arabian Business.com 2015).
Another reason they are unlikely to want to signpost an exclusively modest range is because they
would not wish to be caught up in the controversy surrounding modest clothing versus oppression argument.
Barjis Chohan, fashion designer suspects that if stores stocked a range of Muslim style clothing, they would be in danger of making the Muslim community feel set apart. (High street hijabs, 2015)
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POSITIVES
NEGATIVES
It was featured immediately in many notable
Although there was huge interest, the collection did not
well as the national and inernational press.
within this collection is the brand’s lack of understanding
editorials such as Vogue, Elle, Time and Bazaar as
meet with everyone’s approval. The main reason for failures (Refinery29, 2016)
‘D&G ‘s embellished hijabs and abayas are great news
Some thought that hijabs should not be used as a fashion
suit? (Vogue) The collection has already recieved a
order to please Allah. Others thought it was a marketing
for Muslim women - when will other brands follow
huge positive response from fans online’ (Daily Mail,
2016)
D&G have given Muslim women a visible presence in the world of high fashion but as yet, it is only wealthy women who can enjoy this breakthrough due to the
very high prices of these luxury brands. (El-yacoubi, h 2016) Following the trend of D&G, Zara and H&M have both
featured a hijab-wearing model. H&M’s recycling project used the model Idrissi wearing a hijab in their ground-breaking video. (Marini F, 2016)
statement as they are really intended to cover women in ploy to appeal to rich consumers at Ramadan. (Harris, R
2016)
‘Many Muslim women have expressed that these collections
have missed the mark’. Popular fashion brand Mango followed this trend. However, their collection has been called inappropriate and disappointing (Refinery29, 2016)
‘ I am not suprised that there might be some backlash from those claiming that the high fashion hijabs are immodest or counter to the religious messages. To those people, I say
that luckily they have plenty of other choices, and choice is
the most important thing’ (Jade, D&G Selfridges, Assistant
manager)
Fig 22. Positives/Negatives D&G chart (2016)
58
On 3rd January 2016, Style.com/Arabia announced the launch of a range of clothing by Dolce & Gabbana. It was aimed at the Muslim market, and used D&G’s own distinctive style whilst incorporating the colours/trends/themes of their general spring/summer 2016 collection. The hijabs and abayas were featured in a 20 page lookbook. The launch of Dolce and Gabbana’s new range sent the fashion world ‘into a spin’ and sparked an enormous amount of interest (Arbor, 2016). The insight gained from this is that modesty is definitely making its mark and highlights a growing need for modest clothing in the modern day. D&G is an example of a brand that is adapting to people’s lifestyles and cultures.
Case study
This new range is doing a lot to promote Islam in a good light and yet it was only in 2012 that D&G released a collection using white models wearing ‘black women’s faces as earrings and clothes inspired by the racist depictions of black moors in the 13th-century.’ (The Guardian, 2016) This poses the question about whether their motives were driven by ethnic equality or more by opportunism regarding Muslim spending power. (Haris, 2016). Another insight gained, focuses on bloggers and tweets post collection. Those who were feeling diffident are now beginning to feel more empowered (Beckyearley.com 2015). It is clear that attitudes are changing perhaps due to the famous brands accepting and influencing fashion critics. Once again, this is clear evidence that the modest market is ready. With more and more young women and teenagers wearing hijabs, there is a strong hint that there is a whole generation still to be targeted who remain largely under-estimated and unreached. Although less revealing options are not targeted exclusively towards Muslim women, sales are likely to be boosted by Muslim customers (ibtimes newspaper). For retailers that capitalize on this emerging market effectively at an early stage, Muslim fashion will represent an important additional generator of sales’ (Cathy Benson, journalist)
Fig 23. D&G Case study (2016)
59
On the Uniqlo website, there are
online tutorials by Dina Torkio called ‘hijab wearing made easy with unique styles’
Mostly colour blocking Classic with a twist
Sits well with the main collection
Collection tweets
showing the hype
Soft quality
fabrics drape well
Emphasis on easy
comfortable non - fussy styling Temporarily out of stock
due to high demand. There
Ethnic feel
are more products coming
soon - this could be a promotion tool (Uniqlo, 2016)
60
Fig 24. Uniqlo modest collection (2016)
The
Japanese
fashion
‘We cater to ladies who embrace modest fashion as well as being carefully designed to suit contemporary tastes’
brand
‘Uniqlo’ is an example of moving the trend forward by selling hijabs
and very recently launched a
collection of ‘modest wear’ made in collaboration with the Muslim
designer Hana Tajima (Dazed
Digital - March 2016).
(Taku Morikawa, Chief executive of Uniqlo, Singapore, 2015)
61
The online fashion brand ‘Mimu Maxi’ was founded by two Jewish orthodox women, yet their customers
are from many different faiths. The designs are minimalistic, bold and unusual enough to be featured
in Vogue, Fashionista and Marie Claire.
In terms of garments, swimwear has been impacted and the 2015 collections were a lot more modest than the previous year (The global rise of modest
swimwear, Modestsea 2015). Research showed that
modest swimming costumes were the most impacted, hitting
the
early
majority
(Decent
exposure,
Jessica Ray 2015, Riviera Style exhibition 2015). In 2016, Marks and Spencer launched their first burkini,
causing controversy in the media.
‘For £49.50 the retailer promises you can cover your whole body with the exception of the face, hands and feet, without compromising style.’ (Pearson, 2016)
62
Fig 25. Modest swimwear (2016)
63
Heavy religious focused
Inevested in social media
Underinvested in social media
Light religious focused
Fig 26: Perceptual map 1 (2016)
The Perceptual Map of specific modest clothing brands that
whole fashion spectrum was covered. The luxury designers
and showed that the majority of them focus on one religion.
Gucci, Net a Porter and D&G (the latter two, even produced
are currently on the market helped to compare the differences
The other insight gained was that many of these brands did not have an established social media presence.
Another perceptual map was completed with high end and high street brands, offering modesty so as to ensure that the
64
most empathetic to the modesty trend were, DKNY, Lanvin, collections to coincide with Ramadan).
Luxury brands that are creating immodest styles are Versace, Givenchy, Calvin Klein. Moving down the design spectrum,
Olsen twins, Mary Kate and Ashley are producing quite
On trend
Inevested in social media
Underinvested in social media
Laggards
Fig 27. Perceptual map 2 (2016)
modest collections. The high street and high end modest trend
owned modest fashion shops exist but they are generally old
Examples of immodest shops are Top Shop, American Apparel
modestly and fashionably.
promoters are shops such as Zara, Oasis, Mango and Next.
fashioned and do not appeal to people who want to dress
and River Island. Comparing these, one can see that as
expected, the high street brands are much less modest than the designer brands which is a hint that the trickle down effect
is diluting the message. In addition, some independently 65
POLITICAL There is much controversy in terms of religious clothing. France and Belgium, backed by the European Court of Human Rights, upheld the banning of the hijab (full face veil) in 2014 and other obvious religious symbols in schools and public
places. No such general ban applies in the UK, but institutions do have discretion
to impose their own dress codes. In 2013, teaching staff at a school in Derby were told they had to cover their heads or leave the school (Telegraph, 2013).
The way in which modest clothing brands choose to market themselvesw
should therefore take into consideration the political climate with regards to the chosen marketplace. A UK modest brand choosing to expand into other less liberal countries need to be aware that they may face political barriers.
POLITICAL 66
ECONOMIC Current economic figures show that the UK economy is growing steadily, with falling unemployment, low inflation, and consumer spending being one of the driving forces
of the UK recovery (Financial Times, 2016). Moreover, a rise in employment in young
Muslim women is a positive factor as this indicates they will have more disposable income,
in turn allowing themselves the opportunity to spend more on personal shopping and
clothing (Ogilvy Noor, 2016). This is of great importance as the rise in spending by Muslim women in 2016 indicates that it is a good time to launch more modest clothing campaigns.
ECONOMIC 67
SOCIAL Interpretations of a Koranic verse (An-Nur chapter 24, verse 30) advocating modesty
and espousing appropriate female attire have long restricted what many Muslim women
can wear. Today, experts say things are changing and increasing numbers of Muslim women want to dress fashionably and express their individuality through clothing
(Ogilvy Noor 2016). ‘It is part of a bigger social movement in terms of the empowerment
of women within the Muslim community.’ (Sarah Elenany, a British Muslim designer.)
Some women are having to curb their rights to self –expression because they are
being dominated by the male members of their family and their community for fear of
attracting other male interest. (H, Robinson 2015) This could be seen as anti-feminist and backward, but to some women dressing to please their husband is an acceptable request that they feel offers them some security and protection. One woman in a focus
group comfortably stated ‘If my husband doesn’t think it’s modest, it’s not modest.’
This is a controversial and highly sensitive subject where people may be easily offended
and angered by what they see as a lack of modesty (this can come from women as well
as men). There does not appear to be any anti-modest blogging sites or journalistic articles which would indicate that there is no significant backlash at the present time.
SOCIAL 68
SOCIAL Culture within religion plays a huge part, it is vital that both cultural, traditional and religious beliefs are respected in all aspects of dress and general life. The various collections aimed at ‘Ramadan Fashion’ have crossed lines and caused controversy and criticism in the public eye. Collections by Mango, D&G,
DKNY and H&M have been criticised for their lack of awareness regarding the festival Ramadan. During
this time, Muslim men and women spend time fasting and partaking in more prayer and charity activity than normal (Refinery29, 2016). By neglecting to research this prior to launching these campaigns, the
fashion industry is ignoring the cultural and spiritual elements of the festivals. (Dhakatribune, 2015)
A friar, Bernardo Finelli in 1983, interviewed people about why they were abandoning religious dress and found a common response was
‘We can better approach people when we are like
them; we will not offend people who are not of our faith.’ With more women joining the modest
’bandwagon’ the boundaries in dress codes will become more blurred and help defeat prejudiced attitudes such as those who feel everyone should be fitting in with the “British’ style of dressing.
The term ‘modesty’ itself is very fluid and subject to social, cultural and geographical location.
SOCIAL 69
TECHNOLOGICAL Technology is a key factor in both influencing trends and marketing new products and
services. (The Atlantic, 2015) This is relevant to all consumers as the rise of social media makes it easier for consumers to access anything from across the world. In the past,
religious modest women would be influenced by their family and local magazines. Now,
they use the internet to look at what celebrities are wearing, and they are influenced by
social media such as blogging sites, Facebook,Twitter and Instagram.‘Social media is a
saviour not a nemesis, an asset not a liability, a time saver not a time killer’ (Gass M, 2011). Instagram is key to the rise in technology, particularly for the Muslim consumer. The ‘Chic
Hijab’ is not an uncommon phrase amongst the Muslim consumer in the 21st Century
(Janmohamed, 2016). Marayum Asadullah, is one of Instagram’s first famous Muslim fashion icons. Through the use of her social media account, she is able to influence the fashion of other modest fashion followers in 2015. ‘I’ve always been a girl known to dress myself well and
be a ‘stylish hijab.’ Asadullah initially created a private account, but it quickly led to being
a popular blog with a fan base. In 2015 the Instagram account was well-know across hijabi fashion on Instagram with over 100,000 followers from around the world, over 10,000 likes
per post and numerous comments regarding the source of her outfits (International Business
Times, 2015). This is an example of how technology is very influential in driving the trend.
TECHNOLOGICAL 70
ENVIRONMENT The trend could be adversely affected by use of unacceptable practices that
are sometimes found in the manufacturing industry in third world countries
such as India, and Bangladesh with poor working conditions and under-
age workers. (WGSN, 2015) A recent report by labour rights NGO India found that workers at factories that make clothes for H&M and others, live and work in near-slavery conditions, with 50% of factories lacking any fire
safety measures. Publicity such as this could be damaging to the trend.
ENVIRONMENT 71
LEGAL With the EU referendum looming in the UK, the legal requirements to enter and
exit the country may be altered. If the UK chooses to exit the EU, there is likely
to be a decrease in the number of immigrants and therefore different ethnicities and religions entering the country. With the topic of immigration causing a stir in the country, it is likely that both consumers and businesses will be cautious about what is appropriate to buy and sell at this time. By having a religion focused product, the
company may be taking a risk that could affect both brand image and sales. Modest clothing can however be marketed to a variety of people and not just those who are
religious, relieving the prospect of having a negative image. (Prophet.com, 2015)
Another consideration if the UK splits from the EU, will be the ending of free trade of
goods and services across borders. This is likely to increase costs and will affect the entire industry. With any possible outcome from this trend, there will be financial, strategic & operational risks and legal factors to consider. The service will have to abide by the health
& safety laws in terms of high street stores and concessions, and consumer protection laws.
LEGAL 72
73
TheBigIdea
Providing a service to appeal and reach the modern, modest woman who wants to be fashionable.
After a broad analysis and evaluation of
opportunities relating to modesty (see Big Idea
- appendix) the final idea is based on authority, instinctive thoughts and hints gained.
Creative methodology was used to turn insight into a big idea which is ‘A service to appeal to and reach the modest woman who wants to be fashionable.’
The key insight that led to the idea of this service
was the realisation that there is a dearth of choice
of fashionable modest clothing in shops and
online even though there is an apparent growing market of people interested.
The USP would be a neutral take on modesty
without explicitly stating religions, as research has given insight that there are all kinds of
women who want to be modest, not just religious women.
The big idea is aimed at generation Y women
who are willing to make the choice to dress and accessorize on trend whilst remaining modest.
Taking into account the research about what
modesty means, the service offered will need to encompass the main ‘umbrella’ modesty laws, whilst not offering a service exclusively for specific religions.
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Is there a danger of the service being culturally divisive? There have always been culture clashes around the subject of extreme clothing. A lot of this stems from fear and dislike of anything that seems
different or threatening, for example the Burka, which covers the woman completely. A recent poll for the Express newspaper found the majority of people in favour of a ban (March 2016).
Â
The new service will be inclusive rather than exclusive as it won’t promote any extreme religious clothing or items that would conceal the whole
body. It will hopefully create a community of people of different faiths or no faith at all to share a dialogue and exchange ideas . The next step will
be choosing the best creative concept to deliver the big idea, testing its viability and building awareness around it.
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78
79
Fig 28. Modest women community (2016)
Modest Consumer 80
Fig 29. Lookbook image (2016)
‘Clothes are a major tool in the construction of identity.’
(Crane, 2000)
The service will appeal to the consumers as it meets their needs and provides a solution to their shopping issues.
81
Sarah, 25
•
Absorbed in the modesty dialogue
•
Her annual clothing spend is
•
• • •
•
•
Young woman working full time £600.
She enjoys online shopping and is active on social media
She spends time shopping with friends
Her go-to online brand is ASOS as she likes the choice but feels intimidated by it She
needs
help
in
trend
responses and therefore multiple purchasing
She is plotted on the late majority, as she wants to be fashionable but finds it difficult to pair modest
items together and would find it really helpful to get advice in this •
regard
She has bold tastes and enjoys making
a
statement
but
nervous of making mistakes
Fig 30. Consumer 1 (2016)
82
is
• •
•
A student
Would consider herself to be an
Alice, 19
optimistic person and is very self-motivated
Likely to buy into brands and her go -to online brand is Next as she thinks they’re the most on trend to source modest products,
without having an overwhelming selection and because they also
don’t have too many immodest •
items on view
She wants to add more things to her wardrobe but needs help in making those choices as she does
not have a strong sense of self•
style and is on a limited budget She
is
influenced
by
peer
pressure, and buys online in a social environment with friends
of other faiths so doesn’t want to •
appear too different
She describes herself as having a conservative nature. However, she
would
like
to
be
less
conservative and wants to be
fashionable and unobtrusively modest
Fig 31. Consumer 2 (2016)
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All the bags are sealed up as they are representing modest consumers. The consumers are Generation Y and the late majority with many different personalities but what they have in common is that
they are all modest and want to be stylish. Primary research showed that these women like to accessorize and bags are a common factor and is therefore an effective way to unpack the consumer.
Bag
Style
Condition
•
Sporty
•
Well worn
•
Practical, washable fabric
•
Used daily
• • •
Light weight materials Two way straps Generous size
• •
A favourite item Washed once a week
•
Stylish
•
Mint condition
•
Designer (Expensive)
•
Never over filled
• • •
Classic
Timeless
Sophisticated
•
Lived in
•
Lots of compartments
•
Holds everything
• •
• •
Always done up New leather
Worn every day Replaced with
another one the same when it is worn out
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Variables •
Design
• • • • • • •
Conventional
Contrasting colours
Feminine but sophisticated
Typical woman’s sports bag Not statement making Surface pattern
Prominant designer logo - adds status, advertises the wearer is wealthy and can afford an
• • • • •
expensive bag
•
•
Unisex
Slightly over sized
Canvas and leather
The design (colour, surface pattern)
The condition (clean, shabby, neat, old, looked after)
Consumer
Reasons for modesty
She is outgoing, sociable, sporty. She
She dresses modestly as she partakes
of emphasis on physical health and keeping
the open air. Therefore, she is worried
works hard and plays hard and puts a lot in shape. In terms of fashion, she doesn’t
make a statement and tends to blend in. Her favourite brands are Nike and Adidas.
She is materialistic and having posessions
is important to her. She wants to fit in with her demographic and show that she is part
of a cosmopoltian ‘set’. She is balancing old values and traditions with fitting in to her very modern fashionable, consumer
She buys her Oversized - to be extra noticeable orientated environment. Muslim attire mostly online. Practical
The bag (shape, contents, materials)
She is relaxed and laid back and works as an art therapist. She shops at Oxfam, and likes to go to vintage stores. She has recently
started to uses ASOS market place which has a lot of vintage clothing and accesories.
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in a lot of outdoor sporting activities in about sun damage so covers herself up for protection. She ‘plays safe’ with her
choices of colours and fabrics but would like to have a few items in her wardrobe that are more unusual.
She dresses modestly as she is a religious Muslim woman. She wears an Abaya and Hijab so uses bags to show her
individuality and be attractive. She is aware secular cultures are judging her
and finds that designer bags allow her to demonstrate her wealth and status.
She dresses modestly as she is not
particularly interested in following trends
and just likes to dress comfortably, with a slightly bohemian look. Modest clothing
appeals to her as it is casual and easy to wear for work.
Fig 32: Unpacking the consumer 1
Bag
Style
Condition
•
Old fashioned
•
Looked after
•
Understated
•
Proudly worn
Peaseant / country looking
•
Practical
•
•
Classic
•
Good condition to show
•
Practical
•
Treats it with a leather
• • •
• •
• •
A favourite posession Displaying love of God
Cheap looking
Conventional It is what it looks like - used for
Simple
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polish to maintain its condition
business
Worn every day
a serious mind
• •
Slightly worn but still smart Used often
Design
• • •
Earthy colours Canvas Simple
Consumer
Reasons for modesty
She has a modest personality and is polite
A Christian woman and therefore adheres to
herself. She has strong Christian values
her beliefs on her bag because she is proud
and
caring, putting other people before
and attends Church regularly. She does a lot of charity work raising money for good causes. She currently buys her clothes from Christian websites and charity shops.
• • • •
•
Leather
Brass fastening Unisex
Over the shoulder strap and handle Leather
She is a business woman and is a feminist. She is senior management in a world of finance. She doesn’t use her bag to be
feminine but instead, for practical reasons.
She shops at Whistles, Jigsaw and Next for the majority of her clothing.
Christian codes of dressing. She is displaying of them and hopes it may influence others.
She would wear clothing to show her pride in her faith. She thinks that if she dresses more
stylishly, she could use her influence to pull in women who may not identify with her.
She works in an office full of men. Therefore, she doesn’t want to attract unnecessary
male attention or appear that she is dressing provocatively. However, as her accessories
are practical, she uses clothing to add a bit more style and individuality to her appearance while still remaining modest.
She works in media and is tired of people
She is modest as she is fed up with people
of promoting themselves and getting
sexuality. She doesn’t want to be judged by
using provocative clothing as a way themselves noticed. Currently, she shops
at supermarkets such as George at Asda and Tu at Sainsburys.
using clothes as an expression of their
what she wears. She has feminist values and believes that men and women should both
dress modesty. She wants to find clothes easily without putting in a lot of effort.
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Fig 33: Unpacking the consumer 2
Bag
Style
•
Simple
•
Elegant
• •
Small
• •
New
Used only for special occasions
For evening wear
•
Feminine
•
Holds a lot of makeup
•
Condition
Washable
•
Used a lot
•
Washed every fortnight
•
Simple
•
Stained
•
Comfortable
•
Well loved
•
Soft
88
• •
‘Lived in’
A few years old
Design
•
Looks expensive
•
Classic / timeless
• • • • • • •
• • •
Not over stated
Compliments outfits Slightly vintage feel
Standard makeup bag Vanity case style Timeless Ageless
Shoulder bag Faux leather
Press stud fastening
Consumer
Reasons for modesty
She is a wife and works part time as a
She is a young Jewish woman who is
especially looking for clothes she can adapt
married and her friends are getting
teaching assistant. She likes to shop online, herself by adding under garments to make
items suitable for evening wear. She also
goes to Primark for simple items like long sleeved t-shirts.
modest for religious reasons. She is married so attends lots of weddings, parties etc. She struggles to find outfits
for these events and would like to find them more easily, in one place.
She is a makeup artist and always carries
She is modest as she wants to appeal sexy
fitted, but cover her up and her aim is to
‘the new sexy.’ She believes that dressing
around her makeup bag. Her clothes are be as stylish as possible while remaining modest. She uses Polyvore to find outfits
which inspire her but struggles to find modest clothing.
and is buying into the idea that modesty is like this will make her popular and bring her
love and happiness. She tried being sexy and immodest and now she is convinced this is a more effective way of attracting the opposite sex. She is trying to ‘make sexy respectful’
She is a University student who has a large
She is overweight and influenced by social
of her personality which is hectic and
in. She has found the modest clothing market
social peer group. Her bag is an expression
disorganized. She bought her bag online as she does most of her clothing. Her go-to
shop is ASOS and buys and sells clothing on Depop to supplement her student loan.
media and blogs to want to be thinner and fit
a new fashion statement that she can follow as she can hide the parts of her body she does not want to show, while still looking stylish.
Fig 34: Unpacking the consumer 3
89
Completing a SWOT analysis was helpful (see
Marketing models - appendix). This revealed that there is a potentially big market for a new service for modest clothing. This could be seen as a favourable
point as the service would be offering something
new which could generate positive discussion on social media. By being the first to offer this service,
the brand will benefit from a ‘first mover advantage’, with the scope to benefit in monetary and marketing terms.
However, a weakness of being the first mover, is that other companies could copy the idea more cost effectively and could take advantage of mistakes made by the first mover.
There needs to be an awareness of the threat of competition and strategies put in place to combat it. There may also be some opposition from within
the fashion industry itself, Pierre Bergé, Yves Saint
Laurent’s former business partner said on Europe 1 radio that they are ‘taking part in the enslavement
of women’.
Another
consideration
is
the
negative
press
surrounding such a new and potentially controversial idea. There is some risk of a backlash from strict
observers of religion or opposition from human rights activists or feminists who may see the service
‘I am scandalised, I have always believed that a fashion designer is there to make women beautiful and grant them freedom and not side with compulsory dictatorship. This abominable way to hiding women.’
as pandering to male dominance. (Ogilvynoor,2015)
With these possible threats recognised, it is important that they are considered with an action plan in place prior to launching.
90
(Pierre Bergé, Vogue, 2016)
Fig 35. Protest (2015)
91
Route to Consumer
Defined Consumer
Fiig 36. Klimt inspired consumer (2016)
94
Fig 37. Curve of Innovation (2013)
‘Innovation starts by intimately observing your consumer’ (Trendhunter, 2013) The
target consumers are women who are the late majority of generation Y (Rogers Curve
of Innovation 2003). They are from any faith but are not strictly orthodox in their
religious practices and dress code; equally they could have no religion at all. The
consumers are young working women, students, mothers and others who want to dress
modestly for different reasons. The common denominator is that they are all interested in improving their personal style by dressing modestly and fashionably with ease. The consumer lives in the same social media obsessed world as every other
woman of generation Y, with all the influences and pressures these social media platforms bring. The consumers are a very socially driven group and are active
on social media; 75% have created at least one social media account. (Guardian
2016). The fact that social media generates pressure for its users is supported
by Lloyd (2005) ‘Influence of the media and pressures from peers are apparent’.
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Insight gained from research conducted earlier has provided an understanding of the consumer’s frustrations on different levels when shopping for modest clothing. The current lack of choice
is coupled with the less than enjoyable experience of ‘trekking
around the shops for hours and often finding modest wear displayed alongside offensive immodest clothing.’ (primary research, 2015)
The research also highlighted that the consumer is searching for clothing that is not only modest, but also stylish. They are influenced by celebrities and what they see on the internet, social media and in magazines. They spend much of their time online,
viewing fashion websites and reading blogs. 30% of Generation Y
rely mostly on blogs before they make a purchase. (Forbes 2015) Research indicates that Haute Hijab and Mimu Maxi are modest brands that are already succesfully connecting with
them on social media as well as websites. 95% of consumers expect brands to have a Facebook presence. (Guardian, 2016).
96
‘ Desperately chasing the youth zeitgeist has become the guiding policy of many a marketing force.’ (Social media week, 2016)
Fig 38: Generation Y women taking a ‘selfie’ (2014)
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Brand Essence KEY NEED
Fig will satisfy consumers need for stylish modest clothing
VALUE PROPOSITION
Fig will link rationally with the consumer and continue to keep them engaged by having an Intergrated marketing campaign.
AUDIENCE
Identifying and understanding the most receptive market segments
PERSONALITY
PROOF
Providing evidence and credibility. Primary research (especially the shopping expidition) provided proof of why this is credible.
Personalising the message - making it appropriate for a variety of modest women. Fig has a young tone of voice but still shows sophistication and intelligence. Fig is approachable, informal yet professional and trustworthy.
Fig 39. Brand Analysis (2016)
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Fig is the name chosen for the online brand of modest clothing wear. Fig has a strong identity as a clean and stylish brand, with the overriding concept of clarity. Fig will deliver results by adhering to these values. Essentially, the message the brand is promoting is that it is ‘cool’ to be modest.
Fig is a social commerce service that acts as a ‘trend friend’, ‘style guide’ for modest, modern women who want to be fashionable.
It will curate a range of stylish clothing that the consumer would be interested in. Fig’s slogan is ‘We’ve got you covered’.
It is simple, clear and to the point . The slogan refers to clothes covering the body, along with Fig having all the needs of the consumer covered. This holistic approach is aimed at making the consumer feel they are being taken care of and that they have finally found a ‘safe spot’ in the jungle of modest clothing. The slogan will be found throughout Fig’s campaign.
‘Behaviours are the product to be marketed’. (Kotler, 2003) Therefore, Fig aims to change the behaviour of modest
consumers, ensuring that Fig is the brand from which they source all their clothing. Fig is taking on the challenge of changing the consumer’s shopping habits for the long term. This change in behaviour should be easy and enjoyable for the consumer as their current shopping methods are so problematic.
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100
Fig 40. Fresh Fig image (2016)
Fig’s communication strategy will take place over six weeks. The key aims are:
Brand Aims & Voice
•
To be the number one option for the consumer and to
•
To provide the consumer with a meaningful and rewarding
• •
maintain this position.
relationship with the brand.
To communicate the message that women can be stylish and modest in this immodest world.
To enable the consumer to feel connected to the brand.
Fig will communicate with the consumer in a clear way, using
a young tone of voice. Along with being light hearted, it will be engaging so Fig’s personality shines through and the consumer feels as though a trusted friend is looking after them.
The consumer doesn’t hoard things or clutter. (Primary research,
2015). Therefore, it is imperative Fig represents this feeling of
freedom and space. In addition, Fig’s consumers do not like to be
sold to loudly, so it is important that the brand is strong enough to speak for itself. ‘It is advisable for marketers to build genuine
relationships with Gen-Y consumers and not try to overtly sell’.
(Marty Brochstein, senior vice president of The International
Licensing Industry Merchandisers’ Association, 2015)
101
Landscape ‘ The aim is to establish a strong and recognizable position that is consistant over time and to make sure products and brands are clearly different from those offered by the competition.’
‘WHAT STARTED OUT AS A TREND WILL SOON BECOME AN IMPORTANT PART OF POST - MODERN CULTURE AS SOCIAL NETWORKS WILL EVENTUALLY BECOME A NATURAL EXTENSION OF OUR PUBLIC LIVES.’
(Yourstory, 2015)
As the modest brands have previously been analysed, it is essential to look at the social commerce brands.
The brand that is communicating the best is Polyvore as they have the most sales and are the most active.
Chi Chi clothing.com are communicating the worst.
They are old fashioned and don’t communicate with the consumer or understand their needs.
Looking at what has been retweeted from competitors
gave Fig insight into what consumers want. From
this, it is clear there is definitely room for Fig to hold a competitive advantage in this market. Research has
given a clear advantage to Fig, as it is able to identify
(Posner, 2011)
mistakes made by current brands and ensure these are not to be repeated.
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On trend
Inevested in social media
Underinvested in social media
Laggards
Fig 41. Perceptual map 3 (2016)
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Analysing why Polyvore is successful is helpful when developing ‘Fig.’ ‘Each month, the Polyvore community pins hundreds of thousands of looks to Pinterest. This made Pinterest and
Polyvore a match made in heaven, where anyone who’s passionate about style can discover, share and shop across
two of their favorite platforms.’ (Ranjan, Polyvore, 2014)
Polyvore is an online site which allows users to make combinations of different items of clothing that can be shared on social media, allowing people to keep up with trends. The site is very clean and easy to navigate which is essential for Fig’s website. Young people especially enjoy sharing their outfits on social media sites so it particularly appeals to them. They are linked to Pinterest to help generate sales. Polyvore gets over 20 millions views per
month (Trueship marketing.com 2016). Many retailers from designer to high street use the site to introduce new
lines and then get feedback on them. Fig would use Polyvore as a benchmark and aim to emulate its success.
Case study
Fig’s USP is that it is a social commerce service similar to Polyvore, however it will be on a much more personal level and will cater only to the modest market. A unique feature of Fig is that it is constantly searching the internet
for really interesting modest clothing. This allows women to find their own voice as they are then able to assemble
outfits from Fig’s pre-selected items. By using Fig, the consumers can have an effortless and pleasurable shopping experience. The service will aim to make the shopping experience an enjoyable one rather than a stressful one.
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Fig 42. Polyvore moodboard (2016)
Brand Strategy It is vital that Fig has a common voice throughout the entire company. Brand,
advertising and publicity and all aspects of Fig will work together in harmony in an integrated way. Methodology suggests the most appropriate communication mix is earned media. This is a good way for a new company to get free written or verbal publicity from third parties. In addition, search engine optimization is
also a good way to reach potential customers as it would help Fig to keep a high
profile on search engines. The established strategy Fig is using is ‘Movement’. Fig aims to create a clarion call as this need for stylish, modest clothing is currently not being met. (Forbes, 2014). The marketing funnel is the process Fig will take. The stages are: awareness, consideration, preference, action, loyalty and advocacy.
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Awareness Consideration Preferance Action Loyalty Advocacy
Fig 43. Marketing Funnel (2016)
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Fig 44. Lookbook image (2016)
108
‘ A CLEAR VISUAL AESTHETIC OFFERS A CULTURALLY AWARE CONSUMER THE EASIEST MEANS OF RESPONDING TO ADVERTISING’ (Moore, 2012)
109
Stage One: Awareness
Fig 45. Lookbook mockup (2016)
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Fig 46. Lookbook mockup 2 (2016)
Circulating a lookbook ahead of the brand’s launch will create anticipation and a buzz around the community. It will be used to introduce the brand to as many potential consumers as possible and is the fundamental building block of the strategy and the incentive to the action stage of the marketing funnel. When it comes to the design recipe of the lookbook itself, it will maintain Fig’s concept of clarity and just 8 modest outfits will be displayed in a clear distinctive way. This will be the first look at the way the brand will be marketed and as mentioned earlier, the common voice of the brand will be shown right from the beginning with this lookbook. Fig will purchase mailing list from brands that consumers are already signed up to for example the Muslim brand (Haute Hijab),
a Jewish brand (Mimu Maxi), a Christian brand (Downton Demure) and 15% off Zara (purchasing more than 15% is over Fig’s
budget). The book will also be sent to non-religious consumers who dress in a modest way from other stores, this group of consumers will be chosen from some of the previous research into modest clothing stores. Lookbooks will be sent directly to
consumer’s homes to maximize readership. Primary research reveals that many consumers still live at home with their families who may be more conservative or religious than them so the look book would be packaged in a discreet way. It will be in a crisp white paper envelope with just a window address.
The design recipe of the look book itself will maintain Fig’s creative concept of clarity but also be tasteful and inspiring to the
consumer. The lookbook is A5 as A4 size may be too generic and uncreative but any larger would increase production costs and not keep up the modest ethos. It will be printed on paper with a silk finish to give a quality finish. This could be an effective
way of encouraging the consumer to hold onto the lookbook for a longer period of time. (digitalprinting, 2014) The lookbook’s primary focus is the imagery within it. Therefore, the layout will not detract from this and will feature white space. The design is sympathetic to Fig’s personality, it is simple and uncluttered with an editorial layout. A consistent theme of the lookbook is
vertical and horizontal lines. Lines are suitable for the lookbook as they are a classic element of design and they also help to
organise the layout, create a visual flow and guide the eye. They are consistent, modern and soft and are used to echo the linear patterns on the clothing. The light grey colour palette adds to the overall essence of the lookbook which has visual codes of purity. (Symbols, signs and visual codes, 2013)
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Stage Two: Consideration
The second part of the marketing funnel is consideration. This process will be initiated by Zara, who will help Fig by being part of a collaboration. Methodology revealed Zara is one of the key places modest consumers like to shop. Therefore, it will be effective for Fig to have a presence on their social media sites and gain some of Zara’s following which will need funding. It will occur every Wednesday, at 2pm for one month. This isn’t a key time for Zara and word of mouth will help to promote the buzz around when Fig are posting at that time. Fig will use this opportunity to advertise their brand launch. There will be a competition for consumers to post modest outfits for a chance to be featured in Fig’s upcoming website. From this, other brands could want to get involved. ‘Bigger brands can provide a platform for the smaller brands to showcase their ranges as they already have an established
112
following’ (Shaw, 2016). This collaboration uses the coat tails strategy and will be mutually beneficial because much of the modest clothing will be from Zara and therefore, once Fig is launched, its consumers will be driven to Zara’s website, increasing their sales in line with increased popularity of Fig’s services.
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Fig 47. Fig Zara collab (2016)
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Fig 48.. Fig twitter (2016)
Stage Three: Preference Research shows that the majority of generation Y consumers do not spend time watching adverts on TV and use adblock and similar technologies to get around adverts. The research showed that the majority are not interested in being sold to and prefer to rely on recommendations from friends and others on social media. The use of social media outlets forms a part of the consumer behaviour model.
‘Social media is not just an activity, it is an investment of valuable time.’ (Gardner, 2016) Fig will be releasing a Vine on social media to promote and hint about the brand and create excitement and a buzz around the brand before it is launched. The aim is to make it interesting enough to get onto Vine’s featured page where it would be shown for a day, which would be free advertising with a minimum of 40,000 viewers.
Fig 49. Fig Vine (2016)
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Fig 50. Fig Facebook (2016)
Consumers will be able to visit Fig’s personal social media pages. Consumers’ lifestyles are busy so the appropriate time to communicate with them is when they are active on social media. They are completely immersed in the world of social media so it is important that Fig keeps up with this fast paced world. Each social media page is a marketing strategy in itself as consumers can ‘like’ and ‘share’ posts, relating to the process of the AIDA model on the opposite page. Social media will keep Fig’s established tone of voice, display Fig’s logo and be in keeping with the simple clarity concept. Fig’s social media is another place consumers can enter the competition to post their outfits with the chance to become featured on Fig’s feature section.This will prompt consumers to explicitly engage with Fig. Fig will not bombard followers with posts but will do enough to keep the interest high. The search engine optimizations key word planner is invaluable technology and will bring Fig to the forefront when consumers search for the word ‘modesty.’
5 c’s of Social Media: • Content: Fig’s launch will be the main content discussed on social media. Fig will regularly post content and get the consumer involved. •
Context: Facebook, Twitter Instagram and Vine are key social media platforms and Fig can keep track of the progress by measuring followers and likes.
• Community: By consumers engaging with Fig’s pages, a community will form and consumers can speak to each other by commenting on posts and tweeting. Fig is building a community of modest women who want to be stylish. •
Continuity: The posts will provoke word of mouth about Fig. Fig will continue to tell its story through a variety of different channels.
•
Cohesion: Fig’s channels will be integrated to reflect the message that it is a clear and clean brand.
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Awareness Interest
Desire
Social media will keep up awareness about Fig. Fig’s design recipe will also help awarness. Fig wants consumers to feel impatient for the next post. To maintain interest, Fig will update its contents regularly and keep the consumer involved. Consumers will ‘like’ ‘follow’ and ‘subscribe’. Fig’s competitions involve consumers which will initiate desire along with Fig’s offers and discounts. Consumers are connected and they know, like and trust Fig.
Action Consumers will use Fig as their number one, go to modest clothing destination.
Fig 51. Fig AIDA Model (2016)
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Stage Four: Action The process up to this point has been focused on capturing the consumers’ interest in the brand, leading up to Fig’s website launch. The time of the launch will be released on social media to maximise excitement.
“THIS IS ONE OF THE MOST POWERFUL TOOLS IN SOCIAL COMMERCE.” (ytpo, 2015)
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Research shows that 91% of consumers use smart phones. (Smart insights, 2016) The website will be available on the consumer’s smart phone which is created differently for optimum use. They will be able to download the Fig app which makes the process easier. Consumers will have the option on the app to receive push notifications straight through to their phone. If consumers are hoping for a chance to be featured on the website, doing it from the phone will be quicker and easier for them. On the app, there would be an electronic flipbook (primary research) for a fun, quick way to
put together outfits. This facility ensures that as a brand, Fig is able to capitalize on mobile technology to promote their brand. The website will be available globally to encompass all different cultures and countries giving it an advantage over some of the competitors who are purely UK focused. Most importantly, the website will profit as Fig gets paid a commission from the high street stores that are represented on the Fig website. (Businessoffashion,2015)
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‘40% OF CONSUMERS BUY MORE FROM RETAILERS WHO PERSONALIZE THE SHOPPING EXPERIENCE ACROSS CHANNELS.’ (Monetate, 2015)
‘MORE AND MORE CUSTOMERS ARE PREFERRING TO BUY ONLINE FROM THEIR MOBILE DEVICES AND THIS TREND IS GOING TO CONTINUE IN THE FUTURE TOO.’ (teachsling, 2016)
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HOME
ABOUT US
OUTFITS
CREATE
CELEB STYLES
SIGN UP/LOG IN
CONTACT
Fig 52. Fig Ecommerce page (2016)
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The feature page is where modest consumers’ outfits are posted by Fig along with some information about them.
122
Fig 53. Fig features page (2016)
Fig 54. Fig Create page (2016)
•
Home page will be consistent with Fig’s aesthetics - clear / easy to navigate.
•
15% deal in place offering customers discount when they subscribe.
•
The ‘create’ page will appeal to the established creative archetype as consumers can create their own modest look. Fig wants to inspire its consumers and give every shopper the opportunity to be a stylist.
•
Consumers can add favorite items.
•
There is a chat box that appears at the bottom of the page which allows consumers to ask any questions. 123
•
Opportunity to view where celebrities source their clothing.
•
Principle part of the website is the outfits Fig has created from high street stores.
•
Looks are divided into different sections (eg, work, social) Clicks on items directing consumer to the source.
•
Curating and pairing items from high street stores in unique / fun way to entice consumer.
•
Outfits will be updated weekly in order to keep the consumers inspired whilst not overloading them with content
Fig 55. Fig’s looks page (2016)
Stage Five: Loyalty Weakness
Strengths • • • • • •
• • • •
Will be succesful in providing inspiration for target consumer Promotes the other brands including Zara, Asos, Topshop etc Supports the growing modesty movement Raises awareness and popularity Help to blur existing racial barriers
To participate at an event (eg have a stand) where different brands can attend and showcase modest outfits Once profits increase, could feature clothing from high end fashion houses prompting growth in the modest industry Helping to give recognition and identity to faith groups
•
• • • • • • • •
•
Opportunities
Despite primary and secondary research showing generation Y as the right target market, there will be some consumers who will not be interested in the lookbook or changing their style. High start up costs The lookbook could be discarded without being read Social platform for e-commerce is a niche. Outrage by the older community that social media is corrupting religious values and not acting as good role models to the younger generation Some consumers may not like the other brand sites that they are diverted to so lose interest Some consumers may not like online shopping and prefer to see and feel items first As the brand establishes itself, consumers may be more familiar with choosing stylish modest outfits so they may not use the site as much and instead source clothing themselves As the market is continuing to grow, there is the threat of more competition
Threats
Fig 56. SWOT (2016)
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As Fig expands and increases awareness amongst consumers, they will gain brand loyalty without the need to make changes as Fig would have already established itself as a leading modesty brand. ‘If you build and maintain a loyal relationship with your customer, they are more likely to buy, buy again, spend more and tell other people about you’ (Convince and convert, 2015)
Lookbook
Social media
Feature section Links on Fig’s website
Fig 57. Loyalty loop (2016)
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Stage Six: Advocacy
The Zara collaboration will be a huge support to Fig for the month before its launch but it is unrealistic financially to make it a regular collaboration. The women who become a feature on the Fig website will then possibly post images, blogs etc which will provide more publicity for Fig. Because of the nature of the brand and the communities it is appealing to, the strongest form of advocacy for Fig is word of mouth. If however, Zara see a boost in sales by collaborating with Fig, they may choose to ensure this further by collaborating once a month. Alternatively the brand could reach out to similar companies to Zara for one-off collaborations to boost viewers to Fig and sales to the collaborator.
126
‘ WHILE WORD OF MOUTH HAS DIFFERENT DEGREES OF INFLUENCE ON CONSUMERS AT EACH STAGE OF THEIR CONSUMER JOURNEY (INITIAL CONSIDERATION, ACTIVE EVALUATION, MOMENT OF PURCHASE), IT’S THE ONLY FACTOR THAT RANKS AMONG THE THREE BIGGEST CONSUMER INFLUENCES AT EVERY STEP.’ (Mckinsey, 2010)
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Measuring Success Fig will measure its success by social media activity along with sales and profits. (Those women who appear in the feature section of the website will be encouraged to share their involvement with Fig through social media channels.) The number of people that use the website will enable Fig to gauge the success of the lookbook. The email subscriptions, order numbers and points system will be an easy way to measure the success of the website. To measure success, Fig would also look at the content and evaluate the conversations that occur online such as on Twitter and Facebook.
The amount of likes on social media pages The amount of social media followers Competition contestants Customer feedback Press coverage
Sales in the high street stores Online feedback Online reviews
Responses to Zara collaboration
Word of mouth - how big the topic is in conversation between the community (conducting focus groups) Fig 58. Measuring Fig’s success (2016)
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Funding: Funding
Cost £££
Retailer
PRINT 1000 COPIES OF LOOKBOOK
150
saxoprint
PRINT 5000 COPIES OF LOOKBOOK
400
saxoprint
PRINT 1000 COPIES OF LOOKBOOK SLEEVES
100
saxoprint
PRINT 5000 COPIES OF LOOKBOOK SLEEVES
200
saxoprint
CREATE AN APP
8000
basic (businessapps.co.uk)
CREATE AN APP
23000
advanced(businessapps.co.uk)
CREATE WEBSITE
3000
cheap.cheapweb.co.uk
BUY 15% OF ZARA MAILING LIST
not yet known
ADVERTISING COSTS
Full Page advert
Half Page advert
JEWISH CHRONICLE
3500
1980
JEWISH NEWS
2800
1600
EMEL
not yet known
DAILY MAIL
30000
WEIGHTWATCHERS
not yet known
Fig 59. Fig ‘s Funding (2016)
129
Future Fig will need sufficient sales per month to cover the overheads of approximately £300 per month, to keep the website running plus staff costs plus advertising costs. If the lookbook is successful, this would be produced quarterly, which would cost approximately £2,400 per year. Within five years, there will be a total of 15 lookbooks and each one will contain looks chosen by Fig for the consumer, with differnt styles and fashions to suit various consumer styles. The website will be continuously updated to keep consumers interested. Fig’s future looks promising as commission will be made from other high street brands sharing the site. For example, every item purchased from Zara through the Fig website or lookbook will have a pre agreed percentage of the price given directly to Fig. The lookbook combined with the internet ensures that Fig’s marketing campaign is integrated., driving traffic between offline and online channels. (Business Dictionary, 2015) In the future, Fig could also incorporate some high end fashion houses which will appeal to those consumers with bigger budgets. If the Zara collaboration is successful, Fig will look to team up with other brands on a monthly basis. Fig could host an event where high street brands featured on Fig can bring their modest clothing to showcase. Fig hopes to hold an annual event where the women who were featured on the website during the year, would be invited to an event where they are treated to a fashion show, watching the outfits that they styled being modelled on a runway. When the brand Fig becomes a well known name, bill boards wil be created with just a fig leaf image (mystery advertising eg. Nike Just-Do-It campaign). It will be so recognisable, the fig leaf will be a simple and powerful tool. It is important that Fig continues to grow as retail is constantly evolving.
130
‘ The formulas for yesterday’s success are almost guaranteed to be formulas for failure tomorrow’ (Gibson, 2011)
2016 • • • • • •
• • • • • • •
Vine Lookbook Zara collaboration Active on social media Website launch Online conversation
10,000+ social media followers Fashion show event Popular page social media Ongoing blog Brand advocacy Styling Youtube 2018 channel Established
2017
• • • • • •
• • • • • • •
Involvement with high fashion houses Celebrity endorsement Monthly collabs with brands Pop up events Own branded accesories Increase in sales by 60%
Billboards TV adverts Magazine subscription Store openings Own branded clothing 25,000+ social media followers No decline in sales
2019
• • • • •
2020
Known around the world as the ‘go to modest brand’ Interviews Fashion magazine features Exhibition Fig staff as modest stylists in high street stores (Asos, Topshop etc)
Fig 60. Fig’s future (2016)
131
Conclusion
132
‘THE WORLD’S SHIFTING CONSCIOUSNESS AND UNDERSTANDING OF FAITH MEANS THAT MODEST CLOTHING IS STARTING TO HAVE AN IMPACT ON FASHION ALONG WITH FASHION IMPACTING MODEST CLOTHING. WITH THE APPROPRIATE POSITIONING, THE TREND HAS THE POTENTIAL TO BECOME ‘CRITICAL MASS AND INFLUENCE IN THE LONG TERM.’ (Business of Fashion, 2014)
133
The research carried out into the modesty
movement, in relation to the fashion industry
indicates that increasing numbers of women from all religions plus many with no faith, are striving to dress fashionably yet modestly and express their individuality through clothing.
Young women of faith who are expected to follow
their religious laws are now in conflict, wanting to balance modesty versus being part of modern
society and participate in social media and fashion along with the rest of their generation. The spill
over of modest wear into mainstream fashion is helping to blur the contradiction and there are
indications that this will be more than a passing trend.
Television
programmes
and
fashion
events
featuring Islamic & Christian modest clothing have
brought modesty to a larger audience, endorsing the modesty trend and influencing adoption. All of
this is helpful in breaking down the barriers and pre-conceptions of modest dressing.
134
However, research has shown especially difficult for younger
that modest women are under women who are trying to piece represented shops,
in
advertising, together fashionable outfits.
catwalks and the It is clear from shadowed fashion industry as a whole. shopping trips, interviews, Many women are shopping articles written and social on-line
but
not
enjoying media blogs that these women their experiences and finding want to have a voice and be it difficult to match outfits noticed and catered for. Fig together to fit the requirements would provide a service to and still ‘look good’. Others are appeal to and reach the modern
trawling through rails in shops modest woman who wants to trying to put together items be fashionable and will help to that are often ill-matched bridge this gap in the market. and poorly displayed. It is
135
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List of Illustrations
Fig 1: Lookbook (2016) Street style [Online] Available at: http://lookbook.nu/search?categories%5B%5D=Skirts [Accessed 16/2/16] Fig 2: Lebow, C (2016) Modest fashion timeline [Own edit] Fig 3: SY, C (2014) Adam and Eve [Online] Available at: https://uk.pinterest.com/pin/459930180666561326/ [Accessed 2/2/16] Fig 4: Lebow, C (2016) Religion chart 1 [Own edit] Fig 5: Lebow, C (2016) Venn Diagram [Own edit] Fig 6: Orifino, E (2015)Makeup masterful Hijabis who prove Modesty is anything but boring [Online] Available at: http://www. popsugar.co.uk/beauty/Makeup-Masterful-Hijabis-Who-Prove-Modesty-Anything-Boring-36798588#photo-36798588 [Accessed 4/3/16] Fig 7: Lebow, C (2016) Religion chart 2 [Own edit] Fig 8: Wigsinboise (2015) Wig shopping [Online] Available at: http://wigsinboise.com/about-us/ [Accessed 3/4/16] Fig 9: Lebow, C (2016) Consumer archetypes [Own edit] Fig 10: Tumblr (2015) Black and white - girl on phone [Online] Available at: https://www.tumblr.com/search/black&white%20 drawing%20fashion%20girl%20hair%20phone [Accessed 3/4/16] Fig 11: Richardson, T (2015) Miley Candy magazine naked photoshoot [Online] Available at: http://www.hotcelebshome. com/2015/11/24/miley-cyrus-candy-magazine-naked-photoshoot-by-terry-richardson/ [Accessed 3/4/16] Fig 12: IBT (2014) Royal Tour [Online] Available at: http://www.ibtimes.co.uk/royal-tour-kate-middleton-stuns-green-erdem-coat-new-zealand-1444484 [Accessed 3/4/16] Fig 13: StyleBistro (2015) Mayim Bialik Style [Online] Available at: http://www.stylebistro.com/lookbook/Mayim+Bialik/ L1LaLJqpR6e [Accessed 5/3/16] Fig 14: Reed, J (2016) Olsen twins 2016 [Online] Available at: http://www.jobsnhire.com/articles/41729/20160425/olsentwins-2016-hiding-paparazzi-art-made-kickstarters-dream-successful.htm [Accessed 6/3/16] Fig 15: Lebow, C (2016) Cultural Calendar [Own edit] Fig 16: Fariha (2015) Girls hijab styles and hijab fashion ideas - Dina Torkia [Online] Available at: http://girlshijab.com/ hijab-accessories/dina-torkia-hijab-with-dresses-for-modern-women.php [Accessed 6/3/16] Fig 17: Cafepress (2016) Modest is hottest t-shirt [Online] Available at: http://www.cafepress.co.uk/+modest-hottest+t-shirts [Accessed 6/3/16] Fig 18: Lebow, C (2016) Key insight table [Own edit] 144
Fig 18: Lebow, C (2016) Key insight table [Own edit] Fig 19: Lebow, C (2016) Modest girls interview Fig 20: Elturk, M (2015) What H&M's Hijab-wearing model means for Muslim women [Online] Available at: http://www.elle.com/ culture/career-politics/news/a30845/hm-campaign-hijab-wearing-model/ [Accessed 7/3/16] Fig 21: Buzzfeed (2014) Pictures of Harajuku girls [Online] Available at: https://www.buzzfeed.com/pikapika/10-pictures-of-harajuku-girls-107lj [Accessed 7/3/16] Fig 22: Lebow, C (2016) Positives and Negatives D&G chart [Own edit] Fig 23: Yotka, S (2016) Dolce & Gabbana's Embellished Hijabs and Abayas are great news for Muslim women - when will other brands follow suit? [Online] Available at: http://www.vogue.com/13384616/dolce-gabbana-hijab-abaya-collection/ [Accessed 8/3/16] Fig 24: Lynch, A (2016) Uniqlo launches second hijab collection with UK designer [Online] Available at: http://metro.co.uk/2016/03/10/ uniqlo-has-launched-its-first-hijab-collection-with-a-uk-designer-5743796/ [Accessed 8/3/16] Fig 25: Pallenberg, M (2016) Burkini [Online] Available at: http://www.express.co.uk/news/world/678469/Christian-mayor-bans-burkini-swimming-pools-complaints-Neutraubling-Germany [Accessed 8/3/16] Fig 26: Lebow, C (2016) Perceptual map 1 [Own edit] Fig 27: Lebow, C (2016) Perceptual map 2 [Own edit] Fig 28: Lebow, C (2016) Modest women community Instagram [Own edit] Fig 29: Lebow, C (2016) Lookbook image Fig 30: Lebow, C (2016) Consumer 1 [Own edit] Fig 31: Lebow, C (2016) Consumer 2 [Own edit] Fig 32: Lebow, C (2016) Unpacking the consumer 1 [Own edit] Fig 33: Lebow, C (2016) Unpacking the consumer 2 [Own edit] Fig 34: Lebow, C (2016) Unpacking the consumer 3 [Own edit] Fig 35: Eichhorn, L (2015) Exporting naked protest [Online] Available at: http://www.terrorismwatch.org/2012/09/exporting-naked-protest-femen-first.html [Accessed 8/3/16] Fig 36: Lebow, C (2016) Klimt inspired consumer Fig 37: Bendle, W (2013) Innovation - Applying the 5 Innovative Curiosity questions [Online] Available at: http://brainzooming. com/innovation-applying-the-5-innovative-curiosity-questionsby-woody-bendle/18423/ [Accessed 8/3/16] 145
Fig 38: Gray, S (2014) Travel & style [Online] Available at: http://www.travelandstyle.ca/where-not-to-take-a-selfie/ [Accessed 2/4/16] Fig 39: Lebow, C (2016) Brand Analysis [Own edit] Fig 40: Mordechai, K (2015) Figs [Online] Available at: http://www.sunday-suppers.com/blog/recipe-figs-with-mascarpone-creme-fraiche [Accessed 2/4/16] Fig 41: Lebow, C (2016) Perceptual map 3 [Own edit] Fig 42: Lebow, C (2016) Polyvore moodboard [Own edit] Fig 43: Lebow, C (2016) Marketing funnel [Own edit] Fig 44: Lebow, C (2016) Lookbook image Fig 45: Lebow, C (2016) Lookbook mock up Fig 46: Lebow, C (2016) Lookbook mock up 2 Fig 47: Lebow, C (2016) Fig Zara Collab Fig 48: Lebow, C (2016) Fig Twitter Fig 49: Lebow, C (2016) Fig Vine Fig 50: Lebow, C (2016) Fig Facebook Fig 51: Lebow, C (2016) Fig aida model Fig 52: Lebow, C (2016) Fig Ecommerce page Fig 53: Lebow, C (2016) Fig Features page Fig 54: Lebow, C (2016) Fig create page Fig 55: Lebow, C (2016) Fig Looks page Fig 56: Lebow, C (2016) SWOT Analysis Fig 57: Lebow, C (2016) Loyalty Loop Fig 58: Lebow, C (2016) Measuring Fig's success Fig 59: Lebow, C (2016) Fig's funding Fig 60: Lebow, C (2016) Fig's future 146
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Appendix
159
Project Brief School of Art & Design 2015/16
fcp3
Ba
Title: Self-Devised Project Type of Assessment: Summative Mode: Individual Module: Negotiated Project Module Leader: Michelle Hughes/Matt Gill
Brief
Ref. no: FASH30108
What
You are required to produce a visual report which answers your self-devised project brief. This should contain the development and completion of your research, key insights and opportunities which inform a chosen implementation strategy and creative final outcomes. You are required to execute and deliver the appropriate chosen creative outcomes in addition to your report. You are also required to complete a sketchbook documenting your research throughout the semester. When Project
Type
Briefed
Deadline
Feedback
Self-Devised initial presentations
Presentation
Pre summer
w/c 5 October 2015
Verbal tive
forma-
Self-Devised interim pre- Presentation sentation
w/c 5th October 2015
w/c 15th February 2016
Verbal tive
forma-
Self-Devised draft context Visual report and Big Idea visual report 5,000 words (+/-10%)
w/c 5th October 2015
21st March 2016
Written formative
Presentation
w/c 5th October 2015
Self-Devised creative concept and
th
12 noon
Execution (inc. route to consumer) ideas presentation
160
w/c 21st March 2016
Verbal tive
forma-
noon Self-Devised creative visual outcomes
Various formats
5 October 2015 th
mative
w/c 23 May 2016 exact date tbc re: degree show team rd
Written mative
Sum-
How Outcomes
a) Context and Big Idea. Format: Visual Report, 5,000 (+/-10%) words. ·
An individual printed Visual Document relating to your context and big idea (with Digital PDF copy) which is fully referenced with an appropriate page of references, list of illustrations and bibliography. This document should also contain a research methodology. The Appendix should contain supplementary information such as consent forms, interview transcripts, critical path, tutorial record forms etc.
·
Please make sure your ‘Ethical Checklist for Students’ and ‘Declaration Form’ are also included.
·
A digital pdf copy of your work should also be uploaded to the Dropbox on NOW for the FCP archive. Word count: Please note that the word count includes quotes. References, List of Illustrations, Bibliography and everything in the Appendix are excluded.
b) Sketchbook(s) ·
You are required to produce a sketchbook(s) (no bigger than A4) which should contain your visual research throughout the semester for the self-devised project. This sketchbook relates to your creative concepts. It should show ideas generation, visual research and inspiration.
c)
Executions
1) Route to consumer. Format: Visual report, 3,000 (+/- 10%) words. ·
An individual printed Visual Document relating to the route to consumer (with Digital PDF copy) which is fully referenced with an appropriate page of references, list of illustrations and bibliography. This document should also contain a research methodology. The Appendix should contain supplementary information such as consent forms, interview transcripts, critical path, tutorial record forms etc.
·
Please make sure your ‘Ethical Checklist for Students’ and ‘Declaration Form’ are also included.
·
A digital pdf copy of your work should also be uploaded to the Dropbox on NOW for the FCP archive. Word count: Please note that the word count includes quotes. References, List of Illustrations, Bibliography and everything in the Appendix are excluded.
2) Creative Outcome(s). Format: Appropriate to the nature of the brief. ·
Consider from the following examples: Prototype artwork, product mock-ups/models, prototype magazines, look-books, VM models, exhibition display, styling images, trend briefing document, 161digital platforms, mock web sites, storyboards, film
·
A digital pdf copy of your work should also be uploaded to the Dropbox on NOW for the FCP archive. Word count: Please note that the word count includes quotes. References, List of Illustrations, Bibliography and everything in the Appendix are excluded.
2) Creative Outcome(s). Format: Appropriate to the nature of the brief. ·
Consider from the following examples: Prototype artwork, product mock-ups/models, prototype magazines, look-books, VM models, exhibition display, styling images, trend briefing document, digital platforms, mock web sites, storyboards, film and video, photo-shoots, live fashion event, pop-up shop, experiential marketing, etc.
Reading (refer to NOW resource list and Module Guide for further reading) – Depending upon the project your tutor will guide you to appropriate reading.
Bergström, B. (2008) Essentials of visual communication. Laurence King. Hess, J. & Pasztorek, S. (2010) Graphic Design for Fashion. Laurence King. Barry, P. (2012). The Advertising Concept Book. London: Thames and Hudson
Hegarty, J. ((2014). Hegarty on Creativity. London: Thames and Hudson
Meerman Scott, D. (2013). The New Rules of Marketing and PR. New Jersey: John Wiley and Sons
162
163
Methodology Research method
Sample size
Online survey/ questionnaire
Purpose
To
60
gain
research
on
quantative
modest
consumers: where they shop and why they shop.
Street Interviews
40
To
clarify
what
people consider to
be â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;modestâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; and ask what being modest meant to them.
Melanie
Interview
Elturk
(
Haute
Hijab)
1
To gain a professional insight into the modest fashion market.
164
Strengths
Weakness
Outcomes
Gives a variation of opinions
As it is online, they may have rushd it.
The majority of modest women prefer
consumers.helps to find the gaps
their time to something that has no
of £30 fortnightly. They have diffuculty
from lots of types of modest
and know what to include in
subsequent questionnaires and interviews. As it is anonymous, women are likely to give more honest answers. The
answers
given
A lot of people may not wish to give incentive for them. People missed out
answers to certain questions and often gave brief answers.
Didn’t speak to a lof of older people
conducted in a multi cultural
talk. Some people didn’t understand
area of North London. A lot of young women answered
which gave insight into a potential consumer group.
finding clothes on the high street. Not
everyone has the freedom to make choices. A lot are influenced by modest celebrities
and being fashionable is desirable but in
were
diverse as the question was
to shop online. They spend and average
as they were less willing to stop and the purpose of the questions and the
majority of passers by were too busy to give up their time.
keeping with modest dress code.
Younger women are very aware of the
modesty diologue and several modest women were interviewed. Another outcome was celebrities that people identified with being modest. These
included the Olsen twins and Kate Middleton.
It was useful to see what her brand,
She didn’t know that much about her
It the idea a lot of validity. The interview
missing. To see why Haute Hijab
information regarding why women
She endorsed the idea of a modest
Haute Hijab offers and what it is is the leading website for modest
women and is so succesful. As half
was a skype interview, we were
competition and didn’t have much with no particular faith would still want to dress modestly.
helped to establish a gap in the market.
concession and doesn’t know why it doesn’t already exist on the market. She
offered to help with any advice once
able to see eachothers expressions
the project is more underway and in an
and have a relaxed conversation.
165
Research method
Mormon Interview
Sample size
1
Purpose
To gain more information about modesty from a Mormon point of view
and to compare it with other religons.
Research Focus Group
6
To
gain
modest
different
insight
from
faiths
and
women
backgrounds
and
from those
with no particular faith or religon.
To gain furthur insight
8
into preferred styles and shopping habbits.
Flip book
166
Strengths
Weakness
Outcomes
It was face to face so it was a
She was part of the baby boomer
The
an opportunity to find out
established that the consumer is
generation as it is for the younger
relaxed conversation. It was
information about Mormons, first hand.
generation and it has already been generation Y.
demand to dress
modestly
and stylishly isn’t as high for this women. The emphasis is on being ‘well turned out’ rather than being fashionable.
they
Some people spoke over eachother
Defined that the target market is late
celebrities), where they shop,
speaking in public. There was time
as it was evident from listening to them
Insight take
into
where
inspiration
(bloggers,
how they dress. It was useful to get to know the consumer
in a relaxred environment and make notes while they interact.
while others were more shy about over at the end which could have been
used better if the questionnaire had gone a bit more in depth.
majority, Generation Y modest wome that they were unanimous there was a gap in the market.
and
Older women thought that dressing
It confirmed that older women are
them to feel relaxed along
the idea of modesty. Younger women said
like to play it safe with what they wear.
Excercise engaging
was
and
fun
encouraged
with generating lots of ideas.
It allowed women who didn’t speak English as a first language to still take part.
stylishly is contradictory and detracts from
they liked the looks and wanted to know where to get them but they were just put
together for primark research and were
not neccesarily representative of what is on the high street.
167
not
the target market as all of them said they
Some of the combinations in the flip book
were too daring. However, this generated conversation about what items in their view went together.
Research method
Empathetic research (shopping Expidition and day in the life
Sample size
Purpose
There was a day spent
3
shopping dressed modestly
with modest women to
experiment)
get in the minds of the
consumer and understand
their shopping cycle and habbits.
Japan research - Ethnography
Street style
To gain insight on another
N/A
cultures outlook on modesty.
To examine the street style
24
in London and Nottingham and whether there were demographic
differences
regarding modesty.
168
Strengths
Weakness
Outcomes
Asked questions and observed the
It was a very tiring experience so when
The shopping trip lasted over 8 hours
Recorded the feelings that this
some thoughts were forgotton. They
finding modest and stylish clothing was
shopping behaviours of consumers. experience generated provided an insight into the modest womenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s
lifestyle. Insight was gained about how it feels to be â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;in their shoesâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;.
it came to record feelings at the end,
often found modest items in one shop
but had to go to many other shops to
find something to pair it with and going back and forth wasted a lot of time.
and really showed the diffuculty in very clear. Having to go from shop to shop made it apparent that some sort of service to make this easier is needed.
It was interesting to see the
Interviews were attempted but not
Suprisingly, although the harajuku girls
comparing the traditional style to
enough to get a large enough quota
still adhering to the rules of modesty.
variation of women living in Japan, the harajuku girls and to what young people wear generally. It broadened
enough people spoke English well of respondants.
looked outrageous, some of them were It is clear that modesty is deeply embedded in other cultures. Younger
cultural knowledge. Videos and
women were as interested in what
photographs were useful in the
the researchers wore as the other way
place of interviews.
The opportunity to compare two
Crowded areas made it diffucult
Clear idea of what people are pairing
of the country.) Having a DLR
Sometimes it took a long time to see
around Covent garden were less modest
large cities (north and south
camera meant the photographs better quality than a smart phone camera.
to take close up photographs. people wearing completely modest
outfits, especially in Covent garden.
169
with what. People that were walking then people in Nottingham city centre.
It was clear that modest fashion is a current trend.
Research method
Exhibiton: Vogue cover
Big idea Focus group
Sample size
Purpose
To
N/A
show
how
Vogue
covers have changed in 100 years.
To propose the idea of a
8
â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;service to appeal to the
modern modest womenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;
and see if it is something that would appeal to them.
To contact women who
3
are already trying to dress modestly
Modest bloggers
online.
170
and
stylishly
Strengths
Weakness
Outcomes
It was easy to look around,
Clear how modesty became less
It showed that the covers were
art work on view.
emphasis is no longer all about
than commerical photographs.
well laid out and had original
important and could see how the elegance. It would seem that over
originally works of art, rather
the years it has lost its identity and individual style. It gave the women in the group
an opportunity to comment on what they thought was missing.
It was a relaxed enviroment and a free discussion. Having learnt
from previous focus groups, care
was taken to ensure there were
Some of the women knew
There was a huge response and
answered as a group rather
in the market. The response
eachother so they sometimes
than individually. There were political
and
Economical
aspects that I hadnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t thought of.
enough questions to fill the time.
it was clear that it is a big gap was very positive and they
were very enthusiastic about
Fig. It also gave a lot of points that needed to be address (eg
It was useful to see how the
As they are busy, a lot of the emails
These
what they wore.
as they would have been if they
as potential brand ambassadors or
women described their style and
were quite short and not as in depth were interviewed in person.
171
women
could
be
good
contacts when developing a brand used for a features page of a website.
Research method
VM
Sample size
Purpose
To look at what the high
2
street shops are offering and
what
could
be
adapted for the modest woman.
Rabbis wife Interview
To gain insight into the
1
style of dressing of a
high profile woman in the Jewish community.
Exhibiton:
To
look
paintings
N/A
at
and
Botticelliâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s see
how
they have influenced other
Botticelli Reimagined
artists and how they have
been adapted and used from
advertising to clothing from the time they were painted to the present day.
172
Strengths
Photographs
Weakness
were
Outcomes
taken
A lot of shops didn’t allow
throughout. It was helpful to
the dispalys or mannequins. It
and can refer back to them
see what is currently being
offered by the high street and how visual merchandisers are displaying modest clothing.
photographs to be taken of
was also quite busy so in some shops, it was hard to get clear photographs.
Maxi skirts were often paired with bralets and visa versa. The gap in the
market was made even more evident
and it was also clear that these shops do appeal to generation Y modest
women but the clothes aren’t paired together in a modest way.
Although it was an email
She could only show me items
helpful
She is at the top of the target
and it would have been useful
conversation that she is interested
interview, she was extremely and
informative.
Her knowledge of history of
clothing was also interesting.
of her clothing by phtotograph to look in her wardrobe.
Because she is so stylish, she
paintings stay relevant through the centuries. The images are
brought to new generations of people in different ways.
in style and looking chic rather
than being highly fashionable or on trend.
is an inspiration to women that
meet her. Interesting to see how famous
consumer and it is clear from her
As he painted a lot of nude
As he painted a lot of nudity, his
useful for modesty but was a
of years because people considered
images, it wasn’t particularly
very interesting exhibition in itself.
paintings dissapeared for a number
them too immodest to be shown in
public and it wasn’t rediscovered untill the pre-raphaelites.
173
Research method
Series of history of Jewish clothing talks
Sample size
Approx 12
Purpose
To
learn
history
clothing.
174
about
of
the
Jewish
Strengths
Learning clothing
about
has
how
Weakness
Jewish
been
adapted
and
cultures.
over the years to suit different demographics
Outcomes
There were only prepared sheets of
It
the first part of the series.
modesty landscape.
photographs to make notes on for
Learning about history alongside
fashion was interesting. There were lots of images on the power point presentation to illustrate the talk.
175
was
fascinating
background
information to one part of the
Consent Forms
176
177
178
179
180
181
Tutorial record sheets Self Devised
Self Devised
First seminar - presentation
Case studies and feedback written up from last presentation. Discuss feedback from the briefs set before Christmas
Introduce new seminar group to modesty project, collect peer feedback sheets that I can go over after the seminar, find out if people find the topic of modesty interesting, hear other peopleâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s ideas and give them feedback, get initial response from Tim.
How can i improve/learn from the feedback? Discuss why I lost marks on the execution phase
Presentation flowed, solid idea but a lot more research is needed. Think about the offshoot of modesty, think about the opposition to modesty.
D&G - relevant case study. Perhaps look at Uniqlo - are these types of brands you want your service to be? Most of the proejcts were in the 2.1 section. However, for the execution, the album approach was too obvious and not conceptual enough. I also tried to do too many possible outcomes and so there wasnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t enough attention paid to perfecting one, solid idea. Write a list of how I can improve so that I am more prepared for my final project Start thinking about what I want my service to be. Should it be a concession? should it be a brand?
Prepare a selection of case studies to back up some of the points.
Pleased that it is a valid self devised topic and confident after having a good grade from the proposal. I realize that there are more aspects to the project then I first considered.
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I need to start a sketchbook so I can move from the context to the big idea phase. I understand the marks I got and I will go through them in more detail with the DSA team.
Self Devised Ideas about brand
Self Devised First sketchbook analysis
Make a connection between big idea and consumer
If I am going in the appropriate direction with the concession idea I need to make sure my big idea is connected with my consumer and that it is targeted, relevant and distinctive - Are there ways that I can understand the consumer better?
If my sketchbook clearly shows a progression / sequence of my thought process
Having a concession may be diffucult and not the best route to go down. There are many political and economic risks involved. The big idea and consumer relates but I need to work on how I connect, convert and convince through targeted and timely communication.
Spent too much time on making it look attrative, I need to spend more time developing my concept. However, Tim liked the pages but commented that it looked like too much time was spent on making it look good and it is meant to be more ‘notes to self’ Also, good idea to show I have my finger on the pulse of fashion as I am on a fashion course.
Do a PEST and SWOT of having a concession I need to work on how I am going to get people to listen to what I am trying to say Get more context: depth and breadth
Advised to rethink sketchbook so I will start again with a more fresh and unmeditated outlook. Move sketchbook along in the week so I can show it to Tim and the group in the next tutorial.
Dissapointed that perhaps a concession isn’t the best route to go down. I will explore other ideas in my sketchbook. I understand my strengths and weaknesses so hopefully I won’t fall back on the same mistakes
Looking at other people’s sketchbooks in the group, I realized that I was on the wrong track. I think I was producing sketchbooks as I did when I was on foundation at UAL which is not the same approach. I now understand exactly what I need to do.
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Self Devised
Self Devised Introduction plan
Laptops Old feedback sheets Current mark scheme
Have I improved since the last feedback given? How is my feedback reflected in my grades/ in the mark scheme?
How to go about writing an introduction
In previous feedback forms throughout the year there have been reoccurring comments which I am now fully aware of so therefore can work on I often write too much, go off topic, don’t use the best possible images to illustrate what I am trying to say.
Shorten feedback into a list and remember weaknesses by heart to make sure they are being overcome in the live and self devised projects.
I understand my strengths and weaknesses so hopefully I won’t fall back on the same mistakes
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State what you are trying to achieve (what is your intention?) , don’t make it too long, don’t include too many images, talk about the subject matter and not what is about to happen.
Draft an introduction to show to the tutorial group
A lot of thought needs to go into introduction, I have to keep working at it and editing it down to make it succinct and interesting.
Self Devised
Self Devised
Create a timetable for completing work
Any questions about upcoming presentation .
Dyslexia and dyspraxia mean I am oftern unorganised. Therefore, it is important I am ontop of all my work so I will make lots of notes and deadlines.
What to include / not to include in self devised presentation.
I need to collect a timetable from Eleanor and also complete a critical path . It is important for me to make a timetable because there is a lot going on at once and it will help give structure to my work load.
Bring in completed timetable and critical path.
I feel more prepared now I have a timetable and more of a plan. I will stick it up on my wall and also copy the key dates into my diary.
There is a lot that I want to include in ten minutes so it is important I narrow it down and only include the relevant information.
If using notes, put them on Q cards - donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t read off a script.
I am very nervous about the presentation but excited to share my research with the group and get more feedback while writing my dissertation. I am wanting to try and learn it by heart as I know the topic well enough so feel that it is achievable.
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Self Devised
Self Devised
Looking at sketchbooks again Also looking at financial plan - does it make sense? is it viable?
An investigation of the volume of interest in the modesty trend Quote about modesty’s opposition Bring a critique on the different definitions of ‘modesty’ evaluating what it means to different people from a variation of faiths and backgrounds. Re-go through modest history and bring in a clear timeline.
If my sketchbook clearly shows my thought process If I have delivered modesty in a clean and clear way
Discuss whether there is significant opposition to the modesty trend along with the conflicting trends of modesty and the sexual statements that are being made by society. How much of this to include in the report - how to decide what is relevant and what isn’t Discuss how much history of modesty I should include
I need to do even more research on the stable brand names that already exist. I need to examine how history has evolved brand names. I will also go back through my ideas to make sure I have considered enough options of what my service could be as there are a lot of possibilities to be investigated.
There are existing anti modesty blogs run by feminists The best quote to use is ‘Modesty is the new sexy’ This is contradictory but these consumers are still helping to drive the trend
Email questions to a variety of different bloggers and find good quotes to back up research. Examine other aspects around modesty, not just in the UK but especially in Arab countries.
Continue working on the feedback and expanding research
Excited to hear responses from different bloggers
There is a lot more research to be conducted regarding conflicting trends
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Self Devised
Self Devised
Perceptual maps
Completed primary research methodology New and updated consumer profile Edited photographs from consumer shoot Consumer profile imagery
If the length of the methodology is right and I have sectioned the information in the right way
Which brands my consumers feel they would connect with most
If I have focused on the relevant parts of consumer Look at more luxury brands as a lot of the consumers come from wealthy backgrounds so therefore shop at high end places.
Good methodology – very thorough Make sure the interviews are transcribed Unique and interesting way to display consumer – make sure the figure is clearly labeled. (Klimt inspired portrait)
I need to show the uneasy relationship between physical modesty and cultural and financial modesty (the degree of covering up against the degree of attitude – I need to show that it is acceptable not to Be physically ostentatious but to be financially ostentatious.
Create more maps that are not just high street brands.Look at the trickle down effect - which shops reflect this?
Continue working on the feedback and expanding research Find ways of improving data by making it project specific rather than generic (information meets design = more compelling information) Make sure all the primary research matches up with all of the secondary
I wasn’t thorough enough when creating the map and I will do further research to expand it.
Pleased with the amount of research completed Pleased with the consumer profile. look at Tim’s examples of the Gillette balloon campaign
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Self Devised
Self Devised
Chapter plan for report
Bring in as much in depth information about my consumer (inspired by previous seminar)
Order of chapter plan
Who is my consumer? Do I fully understand them? What do they do, feel believe, care about? What are their key influences? Who are their key influences? What media do they consume? Which brands already succesfully connect with them?
Approaching writing the report in an appropriate way Everyone’s approach will be different – important to choose the way that is project specific All of the writing must have visuals to back it all up Showed chapter plan to the group who’s imput made me consider changing chapters around.
I am getting to know my consumer more. Perhaps another primary research excercise is needed to really ‘get in the mind’ of the consumer.
Record another primary research activity. I will dress modestly and spend the day shopping with modest women for modest outfits.
Add in subheadings to chapter plan Apply everything I have learnt during the past three years Starting to put all of the writing together now - seems a bit less daunting
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I am excited about the primary research and making final consumer profiles and archetypes from all the gathered information.
Self Devised Plan for the next few weeks Break down of grades
What I hope to achieve from my visit to Tokyo
Interesting how I am going to look at modest fashion in Tokyo â&#x20AC;&#x201C; make sure I take notes
Bring in what I have learnt from the Tokyo visit and what I will be applying to the self devised project
I am excited about Tokyo and not only is it a great travel opportunity, but it will be helpful for my project
Self Devised Execution ideas How many executions should be produced and if the ones I want are relevant to my project
How to move anything that is a 2.2 up to a 2.1. Make the feedback sheets more understandable.
Analyzing secondary research, showing my idea process, evaluating ethics, showing key theories, project management skills = all 2.1 However, justifying primary research, consumer informatiom, idea development and commercial awareness are 2.2 By improving those I will be able to achieve a 2.1 Start to work on improving Executions chosen are appropriate but perhaps the look book should be sent via direct mail as if it was to be given out at modest events, the consumer may not pick it up More of my work is a 2.1 than a 2.2 and I feel confident that I can bring it up. Pleased that the look book is appropriate but need to research in more depth
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Self Devised
Self Devised
Colour, logo, type, tone, motif, pattern and texture ideas for report
Think of a motif or symbol that can be used throughout the report
Visual contrast
How does my symbol support communication? Does it reveal information? What is its meaning?
Consider light vs dark, organic vs technical, colour vs black and white, busy vs minimal, large vs small
Using leaves designs on aesitate pages could be effective.
Think how a fig leaf could be used on bars, graphs, infographics - how can it punctuate information?
Make sure everything flows Make sure it is easily understood State insight (maybe on each page)
I want to have a running theme in the report with a fig leaf, but I need to remember to inject variety as if I use the same throughout, there is no emphasis.
Donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t draw for no reason â&#x20AC;&#x201C; it is about what you got from each page Not about it looking pretty
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Self Devised What I am planning to do in the future Layout ideas for dissertation
What skills I have and what path I may want to go down after I finish Univercity
Poetry is something that I could show to future employees Poems that I have illustrated and created stop motion videos for are unique and this could be put in to my portfolio as it sets me aside
Make a list of talents and projects (eg photography, illustration) that could go in portfolios. It is important to have projects that are outside of the FCP curriculum I feel proud and am a lot more excited for the future
Self Devised Portfolios Poster ideas for degree show and post cards
If my layout for my portfolio is clear yet not too basic
Pink is too girly, however it goes with the photoshoot images so works quite well Each project in the portfolio should have the same amount of pages Perhaps all the art projects should be put together in an art section Create more pages for some projects or remove some for others so that it is all even Change the order so the strongest piece of work is at the front (this is the photoshoot) Overall, pleased with the portfolio but it is still a bit messy and un structured so more work on it is needed
I feel more confident in projects that I thought werenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t good enough to be put forward.
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Formative Presenntation Negotiated Project Matt Gill / Michelle Hughes FASH30108
Chloe Lebow - Self Devised Presentation Modesty
Started well - by showing all the different elements that impacted on on this as a trend. It is also good that I am aware of the voices that are channeling modesty.
I need to dive furthur into what is challenging modesty. It is important that I show the proportion of what impacted as a trend because there are lots of conflicting and contradicting trends that exist at the same time. I need to show some volume of this and mention what they are up against. It is vital to have a sense of how this sits in context otherwise it is a trend that three people are listening to. What are some of the conflicting messages? Who are the Olsen twins up against? Are there any bloggers channeling it? What is the proportion? There needs to be more information about the uneasy relationship between physical modesty and cultural and financial modesty.
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Good marketing models, you have done well mapping the trend. You have also included thorough big idea development (moodboards, mindmaps and brainstorms.)
If you had to map the high street brands, which are the most modest? Which are the most immodest? Perhaps start with luxury brands. If you are going to be a modest ASOS, who will you reach out to? Who do you think has an empathetic approach to fashion? Who out of the luxury brands understand the modesty diologue? This is a debate about women and what is appropriate or not appropriate. It is about choices they make, for example minimal makeup or a lot of makeup. It all interlinks. What do these women choose in relationship to their body? Most of these women are still trying to look ‘pretty’ Their idea of what it means to be a woman involved quite a lot of makeup and their idea of cultural ostentatiousness is actually quite extreme. You haven’t looked at how modesty defines these aspects. You are close but you need to comfortably own your space, aknowledge what it is about compared to what it is not about.
Good attendance in seminars, was fully prepared for presentation, good presentation skills - good that didn’t need q cards. Well put together presentation (construction of slides) It is also good that you are challenging your assumptions. Your creativity is also a strength.
You need to find people that NEED your brand. Who are these women? Are they under confident? Would they love you to do the work for them? You need to find consumer profiles that matches your need a bit better so they are more linked.
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Draft Feedback Negotiated Project Matt Gill / Michelle Hughes FASH30108 Negotiated Project Chloe Lebow - Self Devised first draft Modesty
The report is is professionally presented, with sophisticated consideration given to the design of the layout, composition and visual contrast. The report is underpinned with strong quotes and authoritive voices and evidences effective research methods. (questionnaires, interviews etc) generating some worthwhile insights. Charts, timelines, categorised lists, bullet points and infographics would have really come in useful when unpacking the information. The perceptual maps were the only example within the body of the report. While the writing is clear and consistant, it is often repetitive and as the format never changes, the information is never unpacked or investigated clearly to create clear links between data, insight and data. If more of the factual, historical, cultural and social context was outlined in infographics you could reserve word count to analysis, interpretation and insight.
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The big idea is well backed up. It combines an investigation in complex theological, cultural aspects with course specific consumer and style information, linking these very layered topics together well.
It does not clearly control the information confidently enough. There is a lack of clear, categorised information.
Good visual contrast and overall well identified data and strong insights
Though effective in the terms outlined above, the design of the report is very under illustrated and the repetitive nature of the layout does not use composition to try and unpack the content enough by using a variety of formats
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Declaration Sheet
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Ethical Checklist Fashion Communication and Promotion Negotiated Project: FASH30138 Michelle Hughs / Matt Gill 5 months Modesty
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Ethical toolkit
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Critical Path
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Primary Research Melanie Elturk (Haute Hijab) - Interview 1. Haute Hijab company has been active since 2010. Has the image of the brand changed since the beginning? I’ve tried my best to remain consistent with the image of the brand since we started – the most notable change is probably that I am more open as the face of the brand, or the driving force behind the brand. This started in 2012 or so when we got very active on Instagram. Up until that point I wasn’t really putting myself out there as the face of Haute Hijab. 2. Haute Hijab has a strong online presence through Facebook and Instagram with a solid fanbase. Do you promote the brand and products offline as well? (Via fashion shows, magazine ads etc) No, we don’t actually. To date, we haven’t promoted the brand offline. 3. What makes Haute Hijab unique in comparison to its competitors? What makes Haute Hijab appeal so strongly to Muslim women worldwide? We were definitely one of the earlier companies to pop up so that might help, but above that I think people have come to expect a certain level of professionalism, quality and care when it comes to our brand. We hold ourselves to a very high standard and I think people pick up on that. People feel safe shopping with us and they know they’ll be taken care of if anything goes wrong. We also have worked very hard at creating a community around our brand. I’ve received messages from so many women who say they shop with us because they want to support us and the message surrounding our brand. 4. Is creating fashion in accordance to the Islamic values challenging? If yes,how so? Not really. As a Muslim woman who’s worn hijab for over 15 years, dressing stylishly while adhering to Islamic guidelines of modesty has become second nature for me. It’s actually a very fun process to design boundaries because you have to be creative in order to come up with innovative designs. 5. What are, to you, the top 3 brands that you admire? What about them appeals To you?
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J.Crew, ralph lauren and prada. I love that j.Crew is constantly changing to meet the Needs of its customers. I love that they have amazing customer service, their designs are Classic as well as innovative and the quality is impeccable. I also love that you can get a Great deal every once in a while. What I love about ralph lauren is the design and elegance. Ralph lauren has stayed true To its image since day one. You can often spot a ralph lauren outfit from a mile away – It’s that consistent – and beautiful to boot! I truly admire ralph lauren not only as a brand, But as a fashion designer. Prada is my favorite high-end designer for its timeless heritage. The history is appealing and their designs are timeless. You can never go wrong with Prada. 6. My dissertation proposal idea is potentially, to create a modest fashionable concession in perhaps topshop or a department store. Why do you think this hasn’t been done before? Interesting question! We are solely an online brand.However, I don’t really know why modern modest clothing isn’t a concession on the high street! I think there is an assumption that islamic, and modest women in general, don’t care about fashion which is of course, untrue. I think it is a huge gap in the market and would have a massive consumer base, especially in the uk. 7. What are the 3 most important values that haute hijab has and wishes to Communicate to your cons? 1) stay true to yourself/know who you are/who you want to be 2) invest in fewer, better things 3) never let hijab limit you from doing what you want
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Shopping Expidition Reflections
Today, i went to oxford street with three modest women and we were there for nine hours. we started the trip in ‘topshop’ as it was straight opposite the station, therefore the most convinent. we were looking for a couple of hours and all the girls got a few t-shirts to try on. only elise ended up buying a shirt and couldn’t find any skirts to go with it in topshop. We then went into american apparel as to my suprise, they had a variation of maxi skirts. elise wanted one that was white as the top she bought was navy. they had a suitable skirt and she was going to buy it but then decided that £60 was too much to spend on a skirt. we then went into m&s and none of the girls found anything. we went into zara and natasha found a long sleeved yellow summer dress that she bought whilst admitting ‘i bet i’ll never wear it” Elise still hadn’t found her skirt so we tried dorothy perkins. there, she found a skirt but it was too big. it was £15 so she bought it but we still needed to find a belt. in next, she bought a tanned belt. in total, elise spent £50 on the whole outfit and she was happy with that. we spent the rest of the day looking for outfits for natasha and sara but nothing else was bought. i now really understand the struggle these women have to find fashionable modest clothing at a good price. i was able to see that zara and next were the most modest shops we went into (this will be useful when plotting brands on the perceptual map.) These women are the consumers of a potential service. to further this research, i decided to put myself in these women’s shoes. today, myself and three friends dressed modestly and went shopping for the day. i wanted to really get to know the consumer and try to find an outfit that was my style and on trend. After a whole day of shopping, i found a nude blouse and silky skit that i quite liked but wasn’t really what i was after. the other two girls were more picky and didn’t find any bits.
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Blogger responses
‘hi chloe, Thank you for your email, glad you like my blog! To answer your question about the reason I am Modest, I am not modest for religious reasons but instead for my body type. Although they do offer curve sections most of it doesn’t appeal to me. As I find a lot of it inappropriate and ill fitting. It isn’t that I only wear baggy things, I just don’t like my clothes clinging to me! I am able to find the occasional item on asos or topshop and I actually got a couple of beach things for my holiday that weren’t too bad. But on the whole, I prefer shopping at places specifically for covering up...That way, I don’t have to worry about anything popping out! All the fashionable modest places are all online really, as although there is a modest shop near me in north london, it is pretty out of date and old fashioned.’ ‘hi chloe, I am catholic and I do like to stay modest with what I wear (as you probably can see from my instagram/twitter pics) the thing with modest clothing is, I will find the same style of blouse in every shop I go. Conventional fashion items are either too form-fitting or too short. I am always putting tshirts under my pinafores and dresses and I just end up looking so old fashioned. I wish I could walk into a shop on oxford street and go into the modest bit, rather than trecking round to find the one off appropriate skirt or blouse (which usually is the last season anyway) I try to keep my outfits interesting as I know people follow my accounts but I do find it hard to get inspired these days. There are a lot of up coming modest bloggers who put their outfits online but there is so little choice on the high street, it is hard not to copy them. Primark are quite good but there is never visual merchandising that I can look at. If they did have a long skirt up on a mannequin, I garuntee it would be up there with a tiny crop or something that I cannot buy.’ ‘hey there chloe! Thanks for getting in touch, lovely to hear that u are a fan of my instagram! I don’t find it too hard to get my modest looks! There is sooo much out there at the moment in terms of what is in the cat walks to what the celebrities are wearing and although u can’t shop ‘the look’ on missguided, boohoo, or asos like other trends...I am able to go round the shops, find things I can wear and put it together in a cool way. Take last week for example, I bought the cutest suede maxi from topshop and spent about five hours trying to find a polo flared white top to pair it with and eventually found one in debenhams! I suppose it is a bit annoying that it took so long and wasn’t available in one place but I just wouldn’t buy my outfits online. The odd thing, fine, but I prefer to be able to try things on so I know how they fit. I always feel more comfortable spending money on items I can see, feel and try! I hope this was an ok answer! Email or dm me whenever you want and I am happy to send you back my answers/record them/whatever is best for you! Good luck and let me know how it goes!’
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Interview [1]
Me: I [interviewer] Kim: k [43 yrs] Brocha: b [46 yrs] Interviewer: I [21 yrs] I; hi thank you so much for meeting with me and answering my questions. So firstly, as modest women, what does it mean to you to dress modestly? K: everything. I have always dressed modestly and I always will. I have never known anything else. B: same, well, I havn’t always dressed modestly as I used to not be religious when I was growing up and I would wear anything and everything. I never really cared about style or trend. I: that leads me to my next question. Do you care about trend? B: not really. I mean I want to look nice for my husband but I am not interested in keeping up with the latest fashions. K: same, I like to look at the celebs I have to admit, it is my guilty pleasure! But when I go shopping, I don’t think to myself ‘ooh, I saw angelina jolie wearing something like that, therefore I am going to buy it” B: you know saying that, I think that the younger modest generation are very influenced with things like that as nowadays it is quite rare to see the stars having their bodies covered like that kardashian family so I think if a younger girl was to see a modest outfit they liked that actually made it to the catwalk, they would try to get an alternative. I: where do you think they would go to purchase this ‘alternative’ B: I don’t really know where they shop, I only know all of this because I have jewish students that come to me on friday nights for a shabbat meal and this is just something I have heard them discussing. I wouldn’t even know what a kardashian was if it wasn’t for them! K: yes I have never heard of them I: so bringing it back to you two, how often would you say that you go shoppng? K: I have to admit, I am hardly ever shopping. If I ’m at sainsbury’s I may look in the clothing department or I occasionally look in oxfam. B: I tend to do a bit more shopping then that. I will look around the victoria centre and buy a few bits here and there. I also like to shop on asos as I have an account and find it quite easy to use. It’s pretty much just long sleeved shirts and blouses that I ’m buying and tshirts to go over them. I: would you say that is your “style”? B: um, I suppose so but it isn’t really personal to me. Most of the women in the community are layering their clothing. It covers all the right places and I think it looks funky. K: I literally just buy anything that’s plain and simple really. If it doesn’t catch the adverage person’s eye, it catches mine! I: what do you all prefer? Shopping online or in store? K: If I am already out, it is quicker and easier to just pick soemthing up from the shops! B:
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Interview [2]
A - Angela C – Chloe (Interviewer) C. Hi Angela thank you for agreeing to have a quick chat to help with my dissertation A. You’re welcome what would you like to know C. Firstly I know you dress modestly, but how important is it for you to also look fashionable? A. To be honest fashionability is not that important to me although it was when I was younger but mainly because I wanted to fit in and not feel too different from my non-Mormon friends. C. I know you have a daughter in her late teens, does she feel the same way that you did? A. Yes very much so and although I can empathize with her I do get a bit involved with what she wears. All of us parents are quite strict about dressing codes with our daughters, even down to their underwear! C. What are the things you are most strict about? A. We are strict Christian and insist that they don’t show their tummies and that their skirts are close to knee length and shoulders are covered. Also we don’t wear trousers except for exercise. I have to say, working in a school, I would find it more practical to be able to wear trousers but never mind. C. What about elbows? A. Sleeves don’t have to be long. Cap or short sleeves are fine. Us older women tend to cover up in neat cardigans. A. Oh and also no tattoos or piercings except one set of ear rings C. What would you say were the key words to describe the Christian way of dressing? A. We like to be neat, tidy, well groomed, professional if at work, tailored, smart, conservative, sensible… is that enough?! C. Do you take a pride in how you dress? A. Yes I try to dress with all those things in mind. On Sundays and holidays, I taken even more care to look as best I can and do literally have a pile of Sunday best clothes which I keep in a separate part of my wardrobe. C. Do you buy most of your clothes in stores or online? A. I was brought up shopping in certain suitable shops so I do still do that because I believe you can only really tell how something will fit and drape by trying it on. I have tried the odd online purchase but I have always had to send them back as materials haven’t been what I thought or they are too fitted and clingy. Perhaps an American LDS website might work better as you could be safe that the clothes are tried and tested. I might try that one day. C. Thanks for talking to me and giving up your time A. You know you are welcome and feel free to ask anything else you may think of later
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Interview [3]
From: Ilana Epstein <IEpstein@theus.org.uk> Sent: 19 April 2016 18:11 To: Chloe Lebow Subject: RE: modest thesis Hi Chloe, Thank you for your questions I will answer them as best I can in your emaial below, just as an aside my name is Ilana. All the best and good luck with your course. Ilana From: Chloe Lebow [chloelebow19@hotmail.co.uk] Sent: 18 July 2016 18:46 To: Ilana Epstein <IEpstein@theus.org.uk> Subject: modest thesis Dear Esther, I wonder if you wouldn't mind answering these questions as part of my degree dissertaion. The subject is Modesty in fashion and I am doing a degree in fashion communication and promotion at Nottingham Trent University. You don't need to answer all the questions and you may be able to add your own points or thoughts How important is it for you to dress fashionably? It is not so important to be fashionable, although I donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t like to look old fashioned so I would say that it is more important I look classy. What are the most important things you consider when choosing a new outfit?
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How fat do I look? How much does it cost? Do I need to put something under /over to meet my level of modest dressing? If it age appropriate?
Do you buy mostly online or in stores? Both
Do you ever make your own clothes or adapt clothes that you buy? Rarely if ever (maybe once in the last ten years â&#x20AC;&#x201C; for a brides maid dress
Have you always dressed modestly? No
If not, was it hard to make the changes? I did it gradually, and at my own rate, to my own degree
Have you found it easier in the last year or so to find suitable modest clothing than before? Yes
Do your children listen to you regarding what clothes they choose? Not always. Do you wear different sheitels according to what you are wearing? Depending on the event, that often dictates what Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;m wearing as well
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Your style is quite modern, is that unusual for a Rebbetzin? I would say that its 50 – 50
As an historian, would you say that modest dressing is adapting with the times? Its hard to say, I think that this would require a lot of evidence based answers, but I would say the recent advent of beautifully dressed modest Muslim women has made covering up, perhaps less taboo. Much as covering up during the Victorian era was admired, while during the Regency era it would have been considered dowdy to cover up.
What do you think of the traditional, style of plain, black skirts, tops and head pieces? I have just bought myself a beautiful skirt and top from the jaeger sale, let me know what you think from the images below:
Wool Jet Detail Wrap Skirt Compact Knitted T-Shirt Though on me the shirt sleeve covers my elbow…
Do you dress differently for work? I work 6 days a week, so on the weekend my style is more relaxed, trainers, denim skirt, big comfy jumpers
As an educator, are there any lessons we can learn about dressing modestly? It feels really good, to look good, I find people take you more seriously if you take yourself seriously and the first way to show that you value yourself is in the way you dress. And as an aside I find it alluring to leave some things covered up…
I hope you don't mind me taking up your time and Ireally do appreciate it Thank you Chloe lebow
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Dear Ilana, ( I knew that was your name so I have no idea why I wrote Esther! ...apologies)
Thank you so much for replying promptly to my email
I had meant to meet and talk about the disserattion with you but I missed my deadline due to anxiety and and now am running out of time again.
I like your new outfit, itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s chic and modern
Just one more question... I was wondering, as you didnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t always dress modestly, how do you find the difference, do you prefer it and does it give you a kind of freedom?
Thanks again
kind regards Chloe
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Hi Chloe,
No worries about the name mix up.
The biggest difference I find, because I guess in my own way I always dressed modestly, I always wore shirts with some kind of sleeve even if not all that long, I never wore skirts that were super short. The big difference , and the one I still find challenging. Is that jeans were my go to item, I could dress them up or down and felt that I could fit almost everywhere, outside work. In terms of freedom, are you asking whether having less choice means that I have freedom of limited choices, and les pressure to tone up my upper arms? I guess I haven’t thought about it too much, as I have always looked at clothing that would make me look my best and something well cut, expensive and modest seems the most flattering to my shape. And I find that the clothing brands that I gravitate to, like jaeger, jigsaw, mint velvet, riess, whistle tend to be by nature modest.
I do though have a rule, I am willing to out something underneath, say a tight three quarter length sleeve shirt, or a tight skirt. But I will not ever buy something that requires two items of under clothing. And my preference is always for something that naturally doesn’t need any additional items, as I think that the designers did not intend for them to be worn that way. One the other hand I’m wearing a lace top today, no matter my level of modesty I wouldn’t ever wear it on its own, with say only my bra underneath.
I hope this was of some help, All the best, Ilana
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Online survey Where do you shop for Modest Clothes? • Department Store • Specialty shop • Online High-Street Shop • Online Specialty-Shop • Market • Other: How often do you go shopping for Modest Clothing? • Everyday • 1-5 times a week • 1-5 times a month • 1-5 times a year • Never Which of the following items are you likely to shop frequently for? • Long Skirts • Long-Sleeved Tops/Blouses/Shirts • Accessories • Long Trousers/Pants/Jeans • Maxi Dress/Long Dress • Outerwear • Other
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Which of the following items are you likely to spend most money on? • Accessories • Long-Sleeved Tops/Blouses/Shirts • Long Skirts • Long Trousers/Pants/Jeans • Maxi Dress/Long Dress • Outerwear • Other How much have you spent on clothes in the last 2 weeks? • Less than £10 • Between £10-£30 • Between £30-£50 • Between £50-£100 • Between £100-£200 • More than £200 • Other How much would you spend on modestly-styled Workwear in a month? *For respondents outside the UK, please answer in terms of your own country’s currency (ie: do not convert to UK pound). • Less than £10 • Between £10-£30 • Between £30-£50 • Between £50-£100 • Between £100-£200 • More than £200 215
Street Questionnaire
PERSON 1: ‘Covered yet well worn’
PERSON 2: ‘Fashion alongside religion’
PERSON 3: ‘that you cover up your privacy.’
PERSON 4:’ motivated by shame’
PERSON 5:’ basically the same as humble’
PERSON 6: ‘Loose clothing that conceals the body, yet still looks nice’
PERSON 7: ‘cover the knees, cover the shoulder, and no deep clevage or midriff.’
PERSON 8: ‘no big labels, pics or offensive stuff’
PERSON 9: ‘not formal but you should be modest’
PERSON 10: ‘conservative, covered up’
PERSON 11: ‘dressing in a manner that doesn’t automatically arouses lust in someone’ 216
PERSON 12: ‘I don’t think it needs to be long skirts to your ankles, but I think that dressing modestly means dressing in a way so that you ar trying to tempt other men into having lustful thoughts.’
PERSON 13: ‘Modesty to me is clothes that don’t show too much skin’
PERSON 14: ‘shoulders covered’
PERSON 15: ‘Tight clothes arent modest’
PERSON 16: ‘modest dress means wearing something that is flattering without showing too much.’
PERSON 17: ‘I think it is okay for women to show a little skin.’
PERSON 18: ‘skirts that go to my knees’
PERSON 19: ‘ No exposed midrifts or super-miniskirts.’
PERSON 20: ‘To be modest in a clothing sense is to dress without revealing too much.’ PERSON 21: ‘one can look attractive and modest’
PERSON 22: ‘shirts that aren’t low’
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PERSON 23: ‘much better than revealing too much and appearing tacky or tarty.’
PERSON 24: ‘ i don’t really know what is allowed and what isn’t religously but i do know modesty is in fashion at the moment’
PERSON 25: ‘Elbow-length or lower tops’
PERSON 26: ‘Long dresses’
PERSON 27: ‘covering up whilst still enjoying the season’
PERSON 28: ‘It doesn’t mean you have to dress like they did a hundred years ago. At least that is how I see it.’
PERSON 29: ‘to softly conceal the female form.’
PERSON 30: ‘not clothing that allows certain things to “pop out”.’
PERSON 31: ‘being not so revealing. I am actually hoping to buy some bits and pieces that are more modest than the dresses i currently own.’
PERSON 32: ‘clothing should be attractive but not revealing’
PERSON 33: ‘Women all instintively know what is acceptable’
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PERSON 34: ‘It is to dress in a way that becomes a lady.’
PERSON 35: ‘Don’t dress solely to attract male attraction.’
PERSON 36: ‘modesty is being unrevealing as you are a confident person in your own body, it can be a compliment’
PERSON 37: ‘like when you wear a long skirt is ‘modest’ and somethingg covering your body and not really revealing its modest. it shows you are mature and are not an attention seeker’
PERSON 38:’ it means your not too revealing - dresses appropriately’
PERSON 39: ‘to dress in a way that covers your body - polite, smart, shy,decent’
PERSON 40: ‘something I would wear when around children or at church’
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Focus Group
me: i [interviewer] sarah: s [21] ele: e [20] andria: a [28] emma: e [21] yuenkie: y [23] i; hi thank you so much for meeting with me and answering my questions. so firstly, as modest women, what does it mean to you to dress modestly? e: i have always dressed modestly since i was little, so for me it is like a way of life. y: same, it is all i know and all my family along with the majority of my friends dress modestly. e: yeah, someone once asked me if i get jelous of girls that get to wear backless or shorter dresses and i donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t because i enjoy dressing respectfully and modestly even if it is hard to be on trend sometimes. s: i have actually only started to dress modestly within the last couple of years as i am jewish and come from a very reform background. the man i am with is more religous than me and i started to also follow the torah a bit more and ultimatley, dress in a more respectful way. it makes me feel like a more modest person when i dress modestly. a: personally, i am an atheist and i dress modestly simply because i feel more comfortable that way and chloe can tell you all, i have never been one to wear short mini skirts even when i was a lot smaller than i am now! i just prefer to be covered up! i: thanks, the second question is, where do you all like to shop? e: topshop is my all time favourite shop but mainly i am just looking at the clothes! a: yeah i noticed that this summer there was a lot of that boho stuff in but there was nothing much i could really wear! y: i did find a couple of cute maxis in topshop. i find more modest clothing in department stores though like the selfridges concessions or bhs or somewhere like that. y: yeah i do find a lot in department stores too. s: really? i generally find that department store clothing is aimed at older women, especially the modest clothing. 220
a: well yeah, generally all modest clothing is pretty old fashioned and simple. i wish they made flared sleeved maxi dresses that were on trend this summer with high necklines. to be fair, i do get quite jelous of girls i see on instagram that are all into fashion as i would love to instagram outfits but i don’t think anything i wear is on trend or nice enough to do that if you get me. e: yeah but saying that, i follow quite a few modest bloggers on social media and they do look so good and theres quite a few online modest faith sites that are trying to keep up with the trends. y: yeah i am constantly looking at modest bloggers pages but i can’t put outfits together like they can. i wish there were lookbooks and mannequins in popular shops where i can copy their outfits! a: hahahaha, yeah i am rubbish at putting things together without any inspo. i have seen some of those new modest fashion wensites though but i prefer shopping in person, like i like to be able to actually see what im buying rather than going through the hassel of sending it all back! i: that leads me to my next question actually! what do you all prefer? shopping online or in store? a: ‘i prefer to be able to try things on so i know how they fit. i always feel more comfortable spending money on items i can see, feel and try. e: 100% in person, so much funner! although shoppping online can be easier. s: yeah i find shopping online easier because it’s too hard to find modest clothing, shlapping from shop to shop. online you can just open new tabs.although i still do have to go through hundreds of pages of skirts and tops untill i find an appropriate, nice outfit. y: i have tried a couple of the modest websites that are meant to be really fashionable. i bought a black turtle neck dress from ‘shukrr’ and i also got a couple of things from ‘mayasaa.’ e: really? how was that because all these sites are fairly new, fashionable modest clothing is 100% something that is getting bigger. a few years ago, i swear i used to get looked at in the street for my high necks and long skirts. y: well they fit ok but i probably wouldn’t have bought it if it was in a shop but i don’t really want to pay for postage to send it back. if they had their own store or something, i would shop at them ten times more. i probably won’t be visiting the site for a good few months. a: yeah, i’ve looked on those sites too and i dont know, i know that they are trying to be in fashion but there’s something about it that doesn’t work. i: what do you think that is? a: i don’t know really. i think that most of the sites are aimed specifically for religons ie, jewish or muslim people as the websites are advertised and promoted this way, not that there is anything wrong with that...i just think that to be really on trend, it has to be open with no mention of faith, just simply...modest clothing.
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e: i couldn’t agree more. there are sooo many celebs at the moment rocking modesty and these new online sites could be using them for like, ‘get the look’ pages but they aren’t. modesty should be like jeans or like curve sections do you know what i mean? i: do you think it would be beneficial to have a fashionable modest concession in high street or department stores? e: yep, that would honestly be a dream, to be able to go onto selfridges or that big topshop on oxford street and head over to a modest section would be so easy. s: i would be in my element! to be able to look at the mannequins that are completley modest and fashionable or pick up a brandzine with the styles in would be great. i hate not knowing what to wear and having to spend hours online to find things i like. a: it would be incredible and would appeal to so so many people, not just the religous. y: in all honesty, the world has got to the worst it can get to in terms of provocativness. the kardashians for example had naked photoshoots last year, and over the past couple of months, they have been photographed in long dresses and waist coats. i just think in terms of celebs and their photoshoots and music videos, they have got to the furthest they can go without taking all of their clothes off! the only option i see is to go back to being modest. e: yeah... i have noticed that too. having this would honestly change the world! it would appeal to so many different types of people you probably havn’t even thought about and if it was to happen, it has the potential to be massive. s: something we would all rush to town for, yeah. i: thanks guys. so next, what type of clothing do you spend the most time shopping for? y: i would definatley say tops. tops is something i need all the time, all year round. i usually buy just a round neck long sleeved black or white one from topshop or house of fraser or even asda. i can never seem to find coloured or patterned ones that don’t go too low. s: same, i have a couple from h&m a few months back, but usually i wear black white or grey long sleeved tops and wear a dress ontop. i wish i didn’t have to dress like that though! e: do you look at what the bloggers are wearing? s: yeah i do but they buy from weird international places more often than not and a lot of things are sold out. especially this year, the modest fashionable items i did see, like long flared swing dresses, literally sold out so quickly and it is so annoying because people probably bought it who wear crop tops and here i am with a closet full of polo tunics! y: hahhaha yeah. i think i shop for dresses quite a bit too to be honest. i; what kind of dresses?
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y: casual ones mainly, just for socialising or whatever. s: yeah, ive been buying quite a few work dresses which are quite cute, but annoying for summer because i have to wear them over black tights and long tops and i get so hot! i just couldn’t find any floaty clothes that were appropriate for the office. a: talking about things not being appropriate i am currently hunting for a modest wedding dress and having an absolute nightmare. e: i remember the pain, i went through it all with my sister last year. she got hers specially made, is that what you are having to do? a: it looks like it. i just hate having to decide myself what it is going to look like. i wish i could just go into a wedding dress shop and try on a dress and say ‘that’s the one’ i hate that i am having to make these decisions.there is no such thing as a modest wedding dress! e: yeah she felt the same, i mean she did find a couple of nice dresses in jewish wedding shops but they were all quite old fashioned nothing was up to date. y: that is a real gap in the market for sure. a: yeah, a modest wedding dress brnad that is on the cutting edge of fashion, that follows all the modesty requirments and is amazing enough to be in the magazines! y: absolutley. it is pretty much impossible to find an affordable, beautiful on trend wedding gown that meets all the requirements. having them specially made just isn’t the same. i: that’s something i will certainly look into, thank you. so next, have you guys attended any modest fashion events? for instance, have you been to the ‘modest fashion awards’ a: no! i didn’t even know that existed. y: yeah i have never heard of that. s: i saw something about it over on instagram but i can’t really remember. a: i certainly would have gone if i would have been aware ot it. i: next, how would you all describe youe personal style? a: well, as i am concious of my weight i find it hard to find a style. i just tend to grab anything that doesn’t cling to me or showcase my figure. s: i would say that my style is simple and monochrome...like the olsen twins! well, i wish it was like the olsen twins atleast! e: i want to be indie or at least a bit unique but i find it impossible to have my own style.all i wanted was to dress according to this summer’s boho and festival looks but i just couldn’t find the right stuff.
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y: yeah i find it hard too to be honest. i will find the same style of blouse in every shop. conventional fashion items are either too form-fitting or too short. i also find it hard to get inspired by inspirational modest bloggers and celebrity looks without copying them exactly. i often have to adapt garments by adding an underskirt or t-shirt. a: yeah, i also dress the same too. i buy things from the curve section too sometimes as long as it isn’t inappropriate or ill fitting. s: i would say my style is very denim. i know denim is in so i bought a couple of cute denim long skirts which took me about three hours to find and i finally did on page 40 on google! i: what magazines do you guys read? do you look at mags for fashion advice or inspo? e: i only really look at fashion mags when i am at the doctors or hairdressers or something and i never really see any outfits that i can wear but if i do, i make sure to take a pic! y: yeah, if i am flicking through a magazine and i see an outfit i can wear, i legit rip it out and put it in my pocket! i do subscribe to vogue and i read company online. even though i can’t wear the majority of what’s out there, i still love to look and read about it all. s: i literally have every single magazine and june/july 2015 is full as in, jam packed with celebs wearing modest clothing. there was so many golden globe outfits that were modest too and i also saw a few long skirts or long tops in the blogger section of ‘style’ magazine. a: yeah i saw some bits in ‘style’ but by the time i got to topshop, the things i saw had gone. i am mainly reading brandzines. i always pick them up to flick through and see if there is anything i can wear. e: i always look at brandzines too. it is a lot easier for us as most girls look through all the pages seeing what clothes they may want to buy but with us, we just flick through each page untill something appropriate crops up and if i see it in somewhere fashionable like topshop or urban outfitters, i pretty much buy it straight away in case it sells out and it would haunt me! y: nothing haunts you like the things you didn’t buy! s: yeah we are so limited for choice, if something is fashionable and modest we don’t have time to start umming and arring about it and showing it to our friends we kind of have to just buy it! but if there was a concession like we said before, where it was all modest and all really fashionable...it would make things so much simpler! y: agreed!
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i: thank you so much for your time, your answers have been very useful and have really helped me with my primary research! i will develop the idea further and come back to you guys with more questions when that’s all done if that’s okay. e: yep that’s absolutley fine s: feel free to call, text, or email whenever you want y: yeah i am happy to help and it was really interesting discussing it with all of you!
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Modest street style
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VM
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Cartograms
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Initial Research
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Big Idea
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Infographics
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Whole arm covered Elbows covered
Neck covered Trousers
Collar bone covered
Sandals Heels
Not too bright ± especially not red
No bare legs No slits in skirts No trousers No linen/wool mix
Jewellery
Not too tight No sheer
Trousers
Strapless
Sandals
Ok with t-shirt under modest neckline
Crop tops if meet waist line No halter necks No straples High waisline
Skirt max 2 inches above the knee
Simply jewellery Any colors
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Shoulders covered No cross dressing
PERCENTAGES OF TIME USERS SPEND ON
SOCIAL MEDIA
SOCIAL NETWORKS/BLOGS
21.3%
ONLINE GAMES
7.7%
OTHER
56.5%
6.5% VIDEOS/MOVIES
4.3% Check out the new maxi shirts on the Zara website!
PORTALS
3.8%
<RX FDQµW send that Snapchat!
TRIPLE ICON
PICTURE CHART WITH SPACE ACTRESSES
ROYALTY/POLITICIANS
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WOMEN IN MEDIA
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Marketing models
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AWARENESS
CONSIDERATION
ROGERS MARKETING FUNNEL
PREFERENCE
ACTION
LOYALTY
ADVOCACY
MARKETING COLLATERAL
AIDA MODEL AWARENESS
6RFLDO 0HGLD ZLOO NHHS XS DZDUHQHVV DERXW )LJ )LJµV GHVLJQ UHFLSH ZLOO DOVR KHOS JHW awareness. Fig wants consumers to feel impatient for the next post.
INTEREST To maintain interest, Fig will update its contents regularly and keep the consumer involved. Consumers will 'like', follow and subscribe.
DESIRE
)LJµV FRPSHWLWLRQV LQYROYH FRQVXPHUV ZLOO LQLWLDWH GHVLUH DORQJ ZLWK RIIHUV DQG discounts. Consumers are connected and they know, like and trust Fig.
ACTION Consumers will use Fig to as their number one modes clothing designation
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SOCIAL MEDIA
ENGAGEMENT APPAREL
CONSUMER PRODUCTS
RETAIL
SWOT WEAKNESS
Â&#x2021; Will be successful in providing inspiration for target consumer
Â&#x2021; Despite primary and secondary showing generation y as the right target market, there will be some consumers who will not be interested in the lookbook or changing their style
Â&#x2021; Promotes the other brands including Zara, asos topshop etc. Â&#x2021; Support the growing modesty movement
Â&#x2021; High start-up costs
Â&#x2021; Raises awareness and popularity about
Â&#x2021; The look book could be discarded without being read Â&#x2021; Social platform for e-commerce is a niche
OPPORTUNITIES
THREATS
Â&#x2021; To participate at an event (e.g., have a stand) where different brands can attend and showcase modest outfits
Â&#x2021; Some consumers may not like the other brand sites that they are diverted take you to so lose interest?
Â&#x2021; Once profits increase, could feature clothing from high end fashion houses
Â&#x2021; Some consumers may not like online shopping and prefer to see and feel items first
Â&#x2021; Promoting growth in the modest industry
Â&#x2021; As the brand establishes itself, consumers may be more familiar with choosing stylish modest outfits so they may not use the site as much and instead source clothing themselves
Â&#x2021; Helping to give recognition and identity to faith groups
Â&#x2021; $V WKH PDUNHW LV FRQWLQXLQJ WR JURZ WKHUHÂśV D WKUHDW RI PRUH competition
EXTERNAL FACTORS Are changes that are out of your control. This can include: social-cultural changes, technological developments, new legislations etc.
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HARMFUL
BENEFICIAL
STRENGTHS
HARMFUL
BENEFICIAL
ANALYSIS
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Mood Boards
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In all honesty, the world has got to the worst it can get to in terms of provocativeness
The only option I see is to go back to being modest
I just think in terms of celebs and their photo shoots and music videos, they have got to the furthest they can go without taking their clothes off
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Logo Development
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