T re n d R e p o r t autumn / winter 2015
T re n d R e p o r t autumn / winter 2015
chloe murphy N0500689
C o n te n ts
Fig. 1: Matthew Miller by Conor Clinch, 2015
1O N E: INTRODUCTION
T h re e : A ROOT AWAKENING
s eve n : THE ART OF THE CRAFT
e l eve n : GRITTY MATTER
F i fte e n : ANTICIPATING ANARCHY
n i n ete e n : FREE PENMANSHIP
t we nt y t h re e : l i st o f i l l u st ra t i o n s
t we nt y s eve n : l i st o f r e fe r e n c e s
t h i rt y o n e: ke y w o r d s
Fig. 2: Trends Moodboard
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i n t ro d u ct i o n In an exploration of Autumn/Winter 2015 trends, this report observes movements within visual merchandising, creative direction, menswear and print and graphics. The exploration also comprises of an analysis of the way in which societal affairs and consumer desires are driving the trends.
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Fig. 3: Filippa K by Daniel Bruno Grandl, 2015
A R o ot A w a ke n i n g v is u a l m e rc h a n d is i n g
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Fig. 4: Chanel S/S 15 Catwalk Show by Imax Tree, 2015
Fig. 5: Premium tradeshow, author’s own, 2015
Fig. 6: Foliage among Jewellery, author’s own, 2015
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Embrace summer garden vibes this season as brands take a fresh approach with the adoption of visual merchandising trend, A Root Awakening. As seen at Berlin tradeshow, Show & Order 2015 (Figs. 6, 7 & 8), brands give traditional displays a new lease of life by scattering accessories among potted plants and mossy textures. WGSN’s observation, ‘merchandise hangs off tree branches to reflect a laidback aesthetic’ (2014) was evident at Premium Berlin, particularly among showcasing menswear brands (Fig. 5).
Fig. 7: Plants Among Hats, author’s own, 2015
Chanel’s S/S 15 catwalk show (Fig. 4) is likely to have been a source of inspiration for A Root Awakening. Filled with mechanically blooming flowers, the show elaborated on the notion that often nature itself feels like a distant memory. However this array of hanging blooms and spring gardens is also driven by consumers’ need for distraction from the turmoil of the outside world (Faith Popcorn, 2015). A sense of growth and new life provides a harmonious escape.
Figure 8. Moss Among Hats, author’s own, 2015
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Fig. 9: Shoemaker’s Studio, author’s own, 2015
ART OF THE CRAFT v is u a l m e rc h a n d is i n g
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Fig. 10: Scattered Fabrics, author’s own, 2015
Fig. 11: Studio Lights, author’s own, 2015
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Fig. 12: Maker’s Desk, author’s own, 2015
Fig. 13: Selfridges Window, author’s own, 2015
From window displays in London (Fig. 13) to brand showcases in Berlin (Figs. 10 & 11), visual merchandising is adopting an artist’s studio mood. Harnessing artisanal, DIY qualities, advocates of Art of the Craft manipulate garment patterns, scattered materials and convincing work surfaces to act as reminders of brand authenticity. The factory store feel comes as a result of consumers’ growing social conscience surrounding sustainability and working conditions. We are questioning authenticity and expecting transparency to be embedded within everything brands do (Lewington, 2015). Placing garments in a studio-like context aims to set consumers’ minds to rest.
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Fig. 14: Riverbed by Thomas Olafsson, 2015
Food Futurologist Dr Morgaine Gaye suggests that ‘consumers have lost trust, questioning what’s true anymore, instead they want what’s real’ (2015). Her insight does not only refer to the world of edible material, but also translates into creative direction. Gritty Matter is reflective of the way in which overly edited imagery has lost its appeal; consumers’ desensitisation to perfection is resulting in a backlash as flaws become increasingly cherished. This was evident at the more independent Berlin tradeshows. Unafraid of exhibiting imperfections, work such as that of Sergej Vutuc (Fig. 18) which presents grainy negative as finished pieces, was displayed at Bright. Finding appeal in the way in which consumers are tired of perfection, an editorial by Skylar Williams in German magazine, Whitelies, employs a run down bathroom setting within fashion photography (Fig. 17).
Fig. 15: Lamono Magzine Spread, unknown, 2015 p a g e t h i r te e n
Fig. 16: Gritty Realism, author’s own, 2015
Fig. 17: Athur Arbesser by Skylar Williams, 2015
Fig. 18: Postcard by Sergej Vutuc, 2015
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Fig. 19: Rag & Bone A/W by Andreas Laszlo Konrath, 2015
Menswear trend Anticipating Anarchy responds to Faith Popcorn’s social observation of a need to ‘protect oneself from the harsh, unpredictable realities of the outside world’ (2015). Rooted in the martial, this trend prepares wearers for combat with protective helmet-like accessories and garments, such as those featured in Rag & Bone and Y-3’s A/W 2015 collections (Figs. 20 & 23). ‘I love the ninja aspect of things, the idea of it being some sort of army’, Marcus Wainwright, cofounder of Rag & Bone explains (2015). Strong military overtones translate are also evident in the use of old air force and deconstructed MA-1 jackets as urban armour. In order to provide an impenetrable shell, designers are using high-tensile and impact-resistant fabrics. Matthew Miller’s A/W 2015 collection made use of flame-retardant finishes (Fig. 21) and patches which he ‘thought of as bits of armour’ (Tim Blanks, 2015).
Fig. 20: Rag & Bone A/W by Andreas Laszlo Konrath, 2015
Fig. 21: Matthew Miller by Conor Clinch, 2015
Fig. 22: Christopher Raeburn by Kim Weston-Arnold, 2015
Fig. 23: Y-3 by Monica Feudi, 2015
Fig. 24: Juun J by Marie-AmĂŠlie Tondu, 2015
FREE PENMANSHIP p r i n t a n d g ra p h i c s
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Fig. 25: Bikini Berlin Canvas, author’s own, 2015
Fig. 26: Dior Homme by Yannos Vlamos, 2015
Fig. 27: Is Meadham Kirchoff Dead? By Meadham Kirchoff, 2015
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Previous graphics trends have involved clear and neatly-defined text being bound to the confinements of restrictive spaces. However, societal affairs and acts of terrorism such as the Charlie Hedbo shootings in Paris have driven a determined desire for freedom of speech. This desire is reflected in the unrefined and fluid style of print and graphics trend, Free Penmanship. Free Penmanship has penetrated the catwalk, manifesting itself in the shows of Juun J (Fig. 28) and Dior Homme (Fig. 26), while also liberating paint canvases in Bikini Berlin with an expressive stroke of the pen (Figs. 25 & 29). Such unrestricted writings whet our desire for freedom. Fig. 28: Juun J by Marie-AmĂŠlie Tondu, 2015
Fig. 29: Bikini Berlin Canvas, author’s own, 2015
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l i st o f i l l u st ra t i o n s Fig. 1: Clinch, C., 2015. Matthew Miller. Hunger TV [Online]. Available at: http://www.hungertv.com/feature/lcm-matthewmiller-2/ [Accessed 25 May 2015] Fig. 2: Trends Mood board (from top to bottom) Bruno Grandl, D., 2015. Filippa K. Whitelies magazine, Germany, p 51. Olafsson, T., 2015. Riverbed. Whitelies magazine, Germany, p 4. Tondu, M., 2015. Juun J. Dazed [Online]. Available at: http://www.dazeddigital.com/fashion/gallery/18094/3/juun-j-ss15 [Accessed 23 May 2015] Fig. 3: Bruno Grandl, D., 2015. Filippa K. Whitelies magazine, Germany, p 51. Fig. 4: Imax Tree, 2015. Chanel S/S 15 Catwalk Show. Style Bistro [Online]. Available at: http://www.stylebistro.com/runway/ Couture+Spring+2015/Chanel/YQYrk7FU2Cd [Accessed 26 February 2015] Fig. 5: Author’s own, 2015. Premium Tradeshow. Fig. 6: Author’s own, 2015. Foliage among Jewellery. Fig. 7: Author’s own, 2015. Plants among Hats. Fig. 8: Author’s own, 2015. Moss among Hats. Fig. 9: Author’s own, 2015. Shoemaker’s Studio. Fig. 10: Author’s own, 2015. Scattered Fabrics. Fig. 11: Author’s own, 2015. Studio Lights. Fig. 12: Author’s own, 2015. Maker’s Desk. Fig. 13: Author’s own, 2015. Selfridges Window. Fig. 14: Olafsson, T., 2015. Riverbed. Whitelies magazine, Germany, p 4. Fig. 15: Unknown, 2015. Lamono Magazine Spread. Lamono Magazine, issue 100, January/February, pp 80-81. Fig. 16: Author’s own, 2015. Gritty Realism. Fig. 17: Williams, S., 2015. Arthur Arbersser. Whitelies Magazine, Germany, p 128. Fig. 18: Vutuc, S., 2015. Postcard. (Scanned in) Fig. 19: Laslo Konrath, A., 2015. Rag & Bone A/W 2015. Style.com [Online]. Available at: http://www.style.com/slideshows/ fashion-shows/fall-2015-menswear/rag-bone/collection [Accessed 9 February 2015]
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Fig. 20: Laslo Konrath, A., 2015. Rag & Bone A/W 2015. Style.com [Online]. Available at: http://www.style.com/slideshows/ fashion-shows/fall-2015-menswear/rag-bone/collection [Accessed 9 February 2015] Fig. 21: Clinch, C., 2015. Matthew Miller. Hunger TV [Online]. Available at: http://www.hungertv.com/feature/lcm-matthewmiller-2/ [Accessed 25 May 2015] Fig. 22: Weston-Arnold, K., 2014. Christopher Raeburn. Style.com [Online]. Available at: http://www.style.com/slideshows/ fashion-shows/fall-2015-menswear/christopher-raeburn/collection [Accessed 3 March 2015] Fig. 23: Feudi, M., 2015. Y-3. Style.com [Online]. Available at: http://www.style.com/slideshows/fashion-shows/fall-2015menswear/y-3/collection/38 [Accessed 23 February 2015] Fig. 24: Tondu, M., 2015. Juun J. Dazed [Online]. Available at: http://www.dazeddigital.com/fashion/gallery/18094/3/juun-jss15 [Accessed 23 May 2015] Fig. 25: Author’s own, 2015. Bikini Berlin Canvas. Fig. 26: Vlamos, Y., 2015. Dior Homme. Style.com [Online]. Available at: http://www.style.com/slideshows/fashion-shows/ spring-2015-menswear/dior-homme/collection/33 [Accessed 26 February 2015] Fig. 27: Kirchoff, M., 2015. Is Meadham Kirchoff Dead? Dazed magazine, Vol IV Spring/Summer, p 221. Fig. 28: Tondu, M., 2015. Juun J. Dazed [Online]. Available at: http://www.dazeddigital.com/fashion/gallery/18094/3/juun-jss15 [Accessed 23 May 2015] Fig. 29: Author’s own, 2015. Bikini Berlin Canvas.
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l i st o f r e fe r e n c e s Bright Tradeshow, 2015. Tradeshow, 21 January. Gaye, M., 2015. Food Futurology. [Lecture to Fashion Communication and Promotion BA (Hons) Level 2, Nottingham Trent University]. 8 April. Lewington, S., 2015. Experiential Retail. [Lecture to Fashion Communication and Promotion BA (Hons) Level 2, Nottingham Trent University]. 19 May. Popcorn, F., 2015. Trend Bank. Faith Popcorn [Online]. Available at: http://www.faithpopcorn.com/ xwnidb2v053xid2k0n7l9byppp0nnn [Accessed 19 February 2015] Premium Exhibitions Berlin, 2015. Tradeshow, 20 January. Show & Order Fashion Trade Event, 2015. Tradeshow, 20 January. Thornell, C., 2014. Accessory Display Trends [Online]. Available via: WGSN. [Accessed 23 February 2015] WGSN, 2014. Consumer Behaviour – 10 Key Trends for 2015 [Online]. Available via: WGSN. [Accessed 23 February 2015]
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ke y w o r d s Artisanal qualities Brand authenticity Consumer desensitisation Deconstructed Hanging bloom High-tensile Military overtones Rooted in the martial Spring garden Unrefined
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