market report
contents introduction
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sector overview
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market leaders
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sector innovators
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feeder trends
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promotional strategies
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project overview
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timeline
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budget & funding
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supply chain & distribution 37 sponsorships & partners
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image: Pinterest
introduction In this report, I will be exploring and analysing the sustainable fashion market and how this will impact and influence my final major project. I will look into the work sustainable brands do and who leads and innovates the market. I will also look into the different trends and how these trends are applied in the relevant brands. As a result of this report, I hope to have a strong understanding of the sustainable market and what it takes to build and create a sustainable and ethical brand.
image: metro.co.uk
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sector overview sector overview sector overview
image: Yara Shahidi
Fast fashion causes environmental concerns in the fashion industry, its main aim is to provide consumers with low cost products whilst being quick with the process. Although this sounds great for consumers, it’s having a negative effect on the environment as to do this, short cuts are being made to make this happen. Fast fashion is criticised for increasing levels of textile waste, the use of toxic chemicals, water pollution and plastic pollution. The clothing and textile industry is the second largest polluter in the world after oil according to edgexpo.com. However, sustainability within the fashion industry isn’t just about the environmental impacts, it’s also about the workers and how they’re treated. According to the Waste and Resources Action Programme, around £140 million worth of clothing ends up in landfills every year in the UK. So, it’s no wonder that fashion brands are now trying to do their bit to improve their sustainable credentials and meet consumer demands. H&M Group and ASOS are the fast fashion brands which are most renowned for their sustainable movements and ethics. Both brands are very open about where their clothing is made and manufactured, who makes them and what the clothing is made from.
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“More than 150 billion garments are produced annually, enough to provide 20 new garments to every person on the planet, every year� - Forbes.com
Who is the target market?
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The main target audience to this sector is Millennials. According to the 2018 State of Fashion Report, 66% of global millennials are willing to spend more on brands that are sustainable. The millennial generation are more aware of sustainability goals and are willing to do what they can to implement these goals. Millennials are said to have helped drive the fashion industry to what it is today, they want products that are sustainable and durable. Millennials aren’t typically seasonal shoppers, they’d rather invest in long-lasting, high quality products because they are careful with money and want to try and positively impact the environment. As opposed to Gen Z, who feel pressure to be constantly updating their wardrobe with new items as they’re likely to be the most photographed generation. Gen Z are driven by price over quality and aren’t driven by brand loyalty but convenience. With millennials spending more on sustainable and durable products is resulting in less consumption which will have a huge impact on the environment. The less being consumed results in less being thrown away and ending up in landfill.
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“17% of young people said they wouldn’t wear an outfit again if it had been on Instagram.” - Hubbub Foundation
Up to 95% of textiles that are landfilled each year could be recycled. - Recovertex
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market leaders MARKET LEADERS MARKET LEADERS
image: H&M
H&M H&M are the second largest global clothing retailer, specialising in clothing for men, women, teenagers and children. They have over 4,500 stores in 62 countries and an online store available in 33 countries. Their vision is to lead the change towards a circular and renewable fashion industry whilst being a fair and equal company. They’re working towards activating systemic changes across their own operations, their value chain and the wider industry. 95% of cotton and 57% of all materials H&M use is either recycled or sustainably sourced (H&M, 2019). H&M have leading innovations which provide consumers with drive and encouragement to shop with the brand, whilst shopping sustainably and ethically. They have an old textile collection system, customers can bring in a bag of any old textiles for H&M to recycle or reuse, in return customers receive a £5 voucher. In 2018, H&M collected 20,649 tonnes of textiles for reuse and recycling, which is the equivalent of 103 million t shirts, through this initiative. The brand is currently working towards sourcing 100% sustainable cotton by 2020, 100% recycled or other sustainably sourced materials by 2030. The H&M website is full of all of the sustainable movements and actions they’re taking to move forward to make a positive change in the world. H&M make it no secret that they aren’t afraid to try new technologies and sustainable practices to make their brand better and more ethical and more times than not, it pays off, making H&M clear leaders within this sector.
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image: H&M.com
ASOS are a British online fashion and cosmetic retailer who sell over 850 brands as well as their own clothing and accessories. They are known for their diversity and inclusivity and work with over 200 models and offer more than 30 clothing sizes in their in-house brands. ASOS have a wide target audience mainly within Generations Y and Z who have big awareness on climate and environmental issues. The brand makes it easy for their consumers to find the most sustainable products, by providing material information on each product. In 2018, ASOS recycled 3042 tonnes of plastic from EU customer returns. In 2017, alongside 35 other brands. ASOS signed up to the 2025 Sustainable Sourcing Challenge, pledging to source 100% more sustainable cotton by 2025. In 2017, ASOS managed to obtain 4323 metric tonnes of cotton, of which 71% was more sustainable. In the same year, ASOS also developed an Ethical Trade Strategy which prioritises transparency, improving wages, health and safety, addressing and reducing modern slavery risks and identifying and stopping child labour. With ASOS being so open to their consumers about these common issues within the fashion industry and working to avoid them happening, is giving their consumers an education on these topics whilst building brand and consumer trust which will boost consumer’s brand loyalty and drive them to shop with the brand. Transparency is a big factor to consumers and according to a survey, 81% of consumers said brands must be transparent on social media (eMarketer, 2018).
ASOS
ASOS also have sub brand ‘ASOS Marketplace’ which provides a platform for small businesses selling their own label, vintage collections or multi brands. ASOS Marketplace helps give vintage fashion a new lease of life. 70% of clothes sold on ASOS Marketplace are vintage or pre-worn items, contributing to ASOS’ 2020 Circular Fashion commitments. image: asos.com
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WEEKDAY Weekday was founded in 2002 by the H&M group, they’re a fashion and denim brand inspired by youth culture and street style. Weekday stock both in house brands along with external brands. Like all H&M Group brands, Weekday have inspiring and innovating ethics which they promote and share for all their consumers and market to see. 68% of Weekday products are currently made from sustainably sourced materials and 90% of all their cotton products are made with organic or recycled cotton, including their jeans, which since 2015 have been made from organic cotton (Weekday, 2019). Weekday also back up their source choices with facts and statistics on their website, starting by explaining why organic cotton is better than conventional cotton. Weekday say organic cotton is grown without chemical pesticides and fertilizers – and no genetically modified organisms, protecting farmers and the environment. Organic cotton requires 62% less energy to be produced and overall, 46% less climate impact compared to conventional cotton (Textile Exchange Report, 2016). Weekday go further than just using recyclable and sustainable materials, their sustainable ethics branch out further afield to not just the production of their garments but how they’re distributed and promoted. Most of Weekday’s campaigns are shot in their in-house studio or local locations, which cuts down unnecessary travel, they also choose freight methods that lead to the least carbon dioxide emissions, for example they ship their products via boats rather than flying. Weekday also limit their water usage by constantly increasing their share of recycled materials, which require less water than virgin materials, they also collaborate with WWF to conserve fresh water resources. To continue improving, Weekday have set themselves a few goals. By 2020, they want to be using only organic or recycled cotton, by 2025 to be using only reusable, recyclable or compostable plastic in their packaging and by 2030, to be using 100% recycled or sustainably sourced materials. 12 images: pause online
sector innovators SECTOR INNOVATORS SECTOR INNOVATORS
image: @_rebeccajackson Instagram
TALA TALA is an on-trend, inclusive and sustainable activewear brand founded by Youtuber and social media influencer Grace Beverly who is passionate about sustainability, the economy and the planet. Grace is an entrepreneur who wants to make a change in consumer behaviours and help the planet. Her and her team have deep dived into their research to become as economical and sustainable as possible. Grace also founded a sustainable fitness equipment brand called B_ND. All TALA packaging is recycled and is compostable or recyclable. Instead of using excess fabric to create care wash labels, TALA embroider the information onto the product to reduce waste. All swing tags are ‘plantable’ / compostable, the tag can be planted and will grow into a seasonal plant. The attachment of the swing tag can also be reuse as a hairband rather than just be thrown away. TALA uses a factory that spins their own yarn, so no materials need to be shipped in from other countries. 92% of the TALA products are upcycled. By using recycled cotton in their hoodies and joggers, TALA saves 4817 litres of water per tonne of recycled cotton. TALA is a transparent brand who have a whole page on their website addressing all the sustainable practices they have in place. The page discloses information on chemicals, emissions, plastic and water usage and recycling, with information and statistics about the current state of these factors within the fashion and textile industry along with information which correlates to TALA products and their manufacturing.
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image: wearetala instagram
EVERLANE Everlane are an American clothing retailer, mainly distributed online. In 2010, the company was founded with the mission of selling clothing with “transparent pricing”. Everlane are very open about their supply chain, factories, employees and the price breakdown of each product on their website and social media to educate their customers. Supporting their transparency goal, Everlane have a “Choose What You Pay” sales, which lets customers choose one of three prices, the lowest price covers production and shipping, the high prices cover additional costs such as overhead. Everlane have promised to stop using virgin plastic by 2021, including in packaging and in clothing made of synthetic fibres. In 2018, Everlane launched ReNew, a line of outerwear that was created from materials that were created out of 3 million recycled plastic bottles. In 2019, they also released the Day Glove ReKnit, a shoe made from recycled plastic bottles.
16 image: hypebae.com
UNIVERSAL STANDARD
image: Universal Standard
Universal Standard was founded in the US in 2015, by two women whose goal was to make women’s fashion access as unlimited and inclusive as possible. In 2019, Universal Standard became the most inclusive brand in the world by stocking clothing sizes ranging from 00 – 40. Their basics collection “Foundation” was the first collection to have their full size range. “Fit Liberty” is a collection by Universal Standard, if a consumer’s size changes within a year, Universal Standard will exchange purchased items for their current size for free. The returned items get donated to organisations that support women getting back into work and achieving economic independence.
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“See It In Your Size” is a function Universal Standard launched which allows customers to see the item they want to purchase on a model who is the same size. This innovation is a great way to reduce customer returns, as consumers will be able to see how the product will fit and look on their body shape, which provides customers with the accuracy they want.
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feeder trends FEEDER TRENDS FEEDER TRENDS
image: Benjamin Vnuk
sustainability With the current declining state our planet is in, it’s no wonder businesses and consumers are doing their bit to help the environment and our planet. Statistics show that within the last 20 years two-thirds of extreme weather events were influenced by humans (wired.co.uk). In recent years, more awareness of the climate and environmental state has become more prominent within the media. In 2018, several fashion brands took actions to lead towards more sustainable production. Plastic pollution was a big factor within 2018, which the fashion industry had a lot to answer for with 60% of the world’s garments containing polyester, according to Fashion United. H&M, Marks & Spencer and Burberry, along with 290 other companies signed a pact to make all plastic packaging recyclable, recycled or biodegradable by 2025. Following on from the use of plastic, brands including Everlane and Weekday launched collections using recycled plastic bottles. From 2018, London Fashion Week banned fur on the catwalk. Big fashion houses including; DKNY, Burberry, Jean Paul Gautier to name a few got rid of fur in their collections. After a petition that got over 425,000 signatures, MPs were prompted to discuss the fur ban in the UK Parliament. Brands such as ASOS have begun to ban certain materials including mohair, cashmere and ditched silk to stand against animal cruelty and damaging environmental impacts.
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“Since 2017, the number of retail products online described as ‘recycled’ has risen by 173% in the UK and the US.” – LSN 20
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Minimalism is a timeless trend that will suit pretty much anyone. Minimalist fashion consists of wardrobe staples and neutral tones to which can create a simple but iconic look. “Clean lines, minimal detail and a feminine sensibility create an easy-to-wear trend� (WGSN, 2019). Minimalism has always been a lowkey trend but one that tends to stand out every now and then, particularly during fashion week, on and off the catwalk. Most recently, during Milan fashion week for S/S 2020, Prada’s catwalk featured a neat, stripped back everyday wardrobe and Gucci with a monochrome colour palette. Minimalism also dominated street style with blazers and turtlenecks and a neutral colour palette. Research from LSN shows that millennials are seeking basic homeware options that ensure their furniture does not quickly become outdated. LSN also found that millennials are opting for homeware brands that offer a streamlined, limited approach. The minimalist trend is one that will never go out of style, by investing in good quality products, consumers will be able to enjoy their minimal products longer than a maximal product or a seasonal trend. MinimalistAcademy.com found out that most people spend their free time being caught up in a consumerist lifestyle by spending their money on new trends such as the latest clothing, makeup and furniture. By being minimalist, it gives consumers more free time to spend doing other things than leading a consumerist lifestyle.
minimalism
21 image: WGSN
unisex The current generation wears what they want, so there’s never been a more perfect time in the market for unisex / non-binary clothing. In the last few years mainstream brands including H&M, Zara, ASOS and River Island went against the idea of gender exclusive clothing and marketing. Unisex clothing isn’t just about girls being able to wear baggy hoodies from the men’s section but about everyone as an equal being able to wear whatever they want. Although, at the moment mainstream fashion brands haven’t quite accompolished the total inclusivity of unisex clothing, by only bringing out stripped back, oversized clothing like hoodies and trousers rather than garments like bodysuits, skirts or suits. However, it’s small movements like these that will propel and drive the fashion industry to become a genderless market. One part of the fashion industry that is dominating the unisex / non-binary market, is the catwalk. With brands including Gucci and Burberry using both male and female models in Men’s fashion week and Yves Saint Laurent bringing out a genderless collection the catwalk is pulling out all the stops to become more inclusive and diverse. Thom Browne’s Spring 2018 collection included male models in skirts, heels, cropped blazers and a half tuxedo, half bridal dress that closed the show. In February 2018, the CFDA of New York Fashion Week added ‘unisex / non-binary’ as a new category, saying that they are “passionate about fostering inclusion and diversity in the broader fashion industry”. Along with the catwalk, image marketing has been one of the biggest aspects of unisex / non-binary within the fashion industry. Jaden Smith hit the headlines for being the face of Louis Vuitton’s SS16 womenswear campaign by wearing a skirt paired with a leather jacket. Louis Vuitton’s creative director, Nicholas Ghesquiére explained why Jaden Smith was the perfect fit for the campaign, “He represents a generation that has assimilated the codes of true freedom, one that is free of manifestos and questions about gender”. Campaigns like this that are leading the way to an inclusive and genderless fashion industry and encouraging other brands to educate and better themselves.
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24 image: Interview Magazine, 2016
promotional strategies PROMOTIONAL STRATEGIES PROMOTIONAL STRATEGIES
Collaborations are an effective way for brands to gain exposure, consumers and knowledge. Collaborations are usually either with other brands or influencers / celebrities. In a survey conducted by Glossy, collaborations were deemed the best marketing opportunity in 2019, exceeding events, pop-up stores and store openings so it’s no wonder brands have been announcing collaborations all year round. With brands like H&M teaming up with designers like Balmain and Kenzo appeal to consumers who enjoy the idea of a luxury brand but can get it at an affordable price. H&M X Balmain created such a buzz that their website crashed for several hours, due to high demand, once it was resurfaced nearly every single womenswear item sold out. Brands including Pretty Little Thing, ASOS and Missguided tend to go for the influencer / celebrity approach when it comes to collaborations with PLT recently partnering with Little Mix for their own collection and ASOS with Ovie Soko from this year’s Love Island. Both brands created a huge buzz around the collaborations by holding events where celebs and influencers were invited and captured highlights of the events on their Instagram stories which was a great marketing tool for the brand and collaboration to get further to new consumers.
collaborations image: asos.com
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83% of Instagrammers
say they discover new products and services on Instagram.
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- Facebook, 2019
Instagram is one of the most used platforms for brands in this sector to promote themselves, it’s the second most engaged network after Facebook and has over 1 billion active users every month (Instagram, 2019). It launched in 2010 and since then the photo and video sharing platform has revolutionised the way brands market and promote themselves, particularly within fashion. Instagram was the social media network that introduced the world to influencer marketing and jobs. Instagram gives brands the freedom to show content applicable for them and their audience, it also allows brands to be creative with their content, with the in-app selection of filters, themes and story interactivity, there really are no rules when it comes to Instagram content. Using the explore section, allows consumers and brands to browse Instagram accounts that correlate to their interactions and interests, this is a great tool for both users and brands as it inspires consumers and can be a way for brands to find influencers to promote them. In 2017, Instagram introduced everyone into a new way of shopping, with its in-app feature. Brands are able to tag the product in the picture, which will send consumers directly to the product, and with the click of a button, the item is purchased and on its way to the consumer! Similarly, Instagram added this feature to it’s stories feature via swipe up links which has also been a huge marketing tool for brands, by swiping up on a story, the consumer can be sent straight to the product in question. With 500 million Instagram users use Stories every day and 1/3 of the most viewed stories being from businesses, brands would be stupid not to take advantage of these easy marketing tools. In 2016, Instagram also launched new tools for business accounts, including; business profiles, insight analytics and the ability to turn posts into ads. The insight analytics allows businesses to see their top posts, impressions and engagements as well as user demographics, with this information businesses will be able to understand their consumer further. In March 2017, Instagram announced it had over 1 million advertisers.
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Influencer marketing is a form of social media marketing using influencers to promote and endorse products and services and increase brand awareness. An influencer can be anyone, from reality stars to normal people with a large social media following to Youtubers. Influencers can create content for brands in exchange for money, exposure, free products or even collaborations. Brands can also use TV shows for product placement, take Love Island, with an average of 3.3 million viewers each year, brands including Missguided and I Saw It First give the show bags of products for the ‘Islanders’ to wear. Love Island also gives brands insight to the popular contestants and allows them to plan who they’d like to work with which creates a buzz around both the individual and the brand. In 2019, Instagram was ranked the most important channel for influencer marketing. According to Business Insider, the influencer marketing industry is on track to be worth up to $15 billion by 2022.
“A third of UK Instagram users purchased a product promoted by an influencer.” - Ste Davies
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30 image: @itslibes
project overview & ethics
Following on from the research conducted in this report, for my FMP, I have decided to create a sustainable basics brand. The brand will follow a minimalist aesthetic. I will do all the branding myself including setting up its own social media accounts, creating campaign plans, website mock-ups and a brand book. The brand will mainly be promoted and distributed on Instagram, which I will create content for and lay out in a way that will appeal and relate to my target audience. I will also create a brand book that will be printed, explaining and showing the ethos and aesthetic of the brand and the process behind creating it. Throughout the project, I will only source sustainable products for photoshoots and Instagram content. I will also cast a diverse range of models for photoshoots.
image: @lissyroddy
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timeline To ensure I am up to date and on task to complete my FMP efficiently, I have created a timeline to help keep me on schedule with deadlines and key dates. February 2020 - Graduate Fashion Week (June 2020)
june GFW
february -
may - Run up to deadline - Ensure everything is printed and ready for hand in - Last minute GFW preparation
Create brand concept / aesthetic Decide products / garments Create a campaign plan Start model casting Produce a product range Source garments for first shoot First shoot for campaign Experiment with moving image Edit images
march -
Plan for Instagram adverts (moving image) Create Instagram page Create website (mock-up) Source garments for second shoot Second shoot for campaign Shoot moving image for Instagram adverts Edit images
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april - Edit Instagram advert footage - Create creative content for Instagram – explaining purpose and values of the brand - Start uploading campaign imagery to brand Instagram - Complete website mock-up - Once website mock-up is complete – copy into phone app form - Create brand book
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My final major project will mainly be funded by myself, from my savings and the help of student bursary. I will use the university’s photography studio and equipment for photoshoots which will keep costs down. Below are the necessary expenditures for the project:
budget & funding
• • • • com)
Instagram adverts - £5 p/d (Instagram.com) Website domain - £20 p/m (squarespace.com) Business Cards - £19.99 for 50 (moo.com) Printing & Binding - £20 - £30 per 1x 50-page booklet (doxdirect.
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supply chain & distribution For my FMP, I will source basic, minimalist garments from sustainable brands such as ASOS, H&M or Everlane to shoot for campaigns and Instagram content, I then intend to return the items. By using these brands, I will be true to the ethos and concept of the brand. I intend to use brand new garments to make the shoots as high quality and neat as I can. In terms of distribution, I plan to distribute and promote the brand through social media and via the brand website. The brand will also be distributed at Graduate Fashion Week.
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sponsorships & partners Being lucky enough to study at a university with other creatives, I hope to potentially collaborate with students from film, photography or fashion, media and marketing to help me with photography and film shoots and potentially styling / creative directing. Fashion Media and Marketing also have close connection with City College and their Beauty department, so I may try and contact them about asking one for their students to be a MUA for any shoots.
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image: Nylon Magazine (March 2017)
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bibliography Conca, James. 2017. “Ably Sustainable Clothing Dresses Down Global Warming.” Forbes Magazine, April 21, 2017. [Online] https://www.forbes.com/ sites/jamesconca/2017/04/21/ably-sustainable-clothing-dresses-down-globalwarming/. [Accessed on 17th Oct, 2019 at 10:47] Davies, Ste. 2019. “18 Instagram Influencer Marketing Stats You Need To Know.” Ste Davies. March 8, 2019. [Online] https://www.stedavies.com/ instagram-influencer-marketing-stats/. [Accessed on 30th Oct, 2019 at 13:54] Elven, Marjorie van. 2018. “Recap: What Fashion Brands Did for the Environment & Animal Rights in 2018.” December 18, 2018. [Online] https:// fashionunited.uk/news/fashion/recap-what-fashion-brands-did-for-theenvironment-animal-rights-in-2018/2018121840611. [Accessed on 18th Oct, 2019 at 16:07] Hahn-Petersen, Luna Atamian. 2018. “Op-Ed - Millennials Say They Care About Sustainability. So Why Don’t They Shop This Way?” Business of Fashion, April 21, 2018. [Online] https://www.businessoffashion.com/articles/opinion/op-edmillennials-say-they-care-about-sustainability-so-why-dont-they-dont-shopthis-way. [Accessed on 7th Oct, 2019 at 10:18] Hill, Rhonda P. 2016. “Fashion Industry Waste Statistics.” E D G E. July 20, 2016. [Online] https://edgexpo.com/fashion-industry-waste-statistics/. King, Jennifer. 2018. “Consumers Expect Brands to Be Open and Honest on Social Media.” eMarketer. August 20, 2018. [Online] https://www.emarketer. com/content/willingness-to-share-on-social-impacts-brand-sentiment. [Accessed on 30th Oct, 2019 at 13:41] Manoff, Jill. 2019. “Glossy Research: 38 Percent of Fashion and Beauty Brands Plan to Launch a Collaboration This Year – Glossy.” Glossy. January 4, 2019. [Online] https://www.glossy.co/platform-effect/glossy-research-38-percentof-fashion-and-beauty-brands-plan-to-launch-a-collaboration-this-year. [Accessed on 30th Oct, 2019 at 14:03] Restorick, Trewin. n.d. “Nudging People Away from Fast Fashion.” Hubbub Foundation. [Online] https://www.hubbub.org.uk/blog/nudging-people-awayfrom-fast-fashion. [Accessed on 4th Nov, 2019 at 10:35] Schomer, Audrey. 2019. “Influencer Marketing: State of the Social Media Influencer Market in 2020.” Business Insider, December 17, 2019. [Online] https://www.businessinsider.com/influencer-marketing-report. [Accessed on 31st Oct, 2019 at 9:31]
Sherman, Lauren. 2019. “How Can New Technologies Help Make Fashion More Sustainable?” Business of Fashion, February 21, 2019. [Online] https://www.businessoffashion.com/articles/ voices/how-can-new-technologies-help-make-fashion-moresustainable. [Accessed on 15th Oct, 2019 at 19:17] “Sustainability – Recover | Upcycled Textil System.” n.d. https:// www.recovertex.com/sustainability/. [Accessed on 16th Oct, 2019 at 15:58] Unknown. 2014. “New Campaign Shows You How to Access Wardrobe Billions.” WRAP UK. February 11, 2014. [Online] https:// www.wrap.org.uk/LYCconsumerrelease. [Accessed on 15th Oct, 2019 at 14:48] Weiss, Sabrina. 2019. “The 10 Facts That Prove We’re in a Climate Emergency.” WIRED UK. June 19, 2019. [Online] https://www. wired.co.uk/article/climate-change-facts-2019. [Accessed on 21st Oct, 2019 at 17:15]
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Chloe Palmer BAFM301
Research, Experimentation & Development
