Learning from an Expert Rice and Peas with Coconut

Rice and Peas with Coconut As Toni Tipton-Martin says, “Rice and peas is Jamaica’s ‘coat of arms’ in cooking, and it usually means small beans (peas) and rice simmered with coconut, often also seasoned with a hint of thyme, bay, and cinnamon.” She adds that the coconut milk, rather than overpowering the beans, “adds a creamy quality to the dish, and the taste is subtle and mild.” (Adapted from Jubilee: Recipes from Two Centuries of African American Cooking by Toni Tipton-Martin.)

HANDS-ON TIME: 30 MINUTES TOTAL TIME: 1 HOUR 45 MINUTES MAKES: 3–4 SERVINGS

INGREDIENTS ½ cup dried small red beans, picked over for stones, rinsed, soaked in water overnight, and drained 1 small onion, peeled and chopped 1 garlic clove, peeled and minced 1 small dried red chile, left whole (or substitute 1/8 teaspoon crushed red pepper) ½ teaspoon dried thyme 1 bay leaf 1 cinnamon stick (or substitute ½ teaspoon ground cinnamon) 2 teaspoons vegetable oil 1 cup coconut milk (from a 13.5-ounce can, very well mixed before measuring) 2 cups low-sodium chicken broth 1 cup long-grain rice Kosher salt and black pepper

INSTRUCTIONS 1. In a large lidded saucepan, combine all the ingredients except the rice and salt and pepper. 2. Bring to a boil over high heat, then reduce the heat to medium-low, cover, and simmer until the beans are just tender, about 1 hour. 3. Meanwhile, place the rice in a bowl and rinse under cool running water until the water is clear. Drain well. 4. Stir the rice into the beans, cover, and cook over low heat until the rice is tender and most of the liquid is absorbed, 20 to 30 minutes longer. 5. Discard the bay leaf and the chile pepper and cinnamon stick, if using, then season to taste with salt and pepper. Serve right away.

Coconut Milk Coconut milk is not what we usually think of as “milk.” Instead, it is shredded coconut flesh that is pureed with water and strained to create a rich, flavorful white liquid. It’s an important ingredient in the cuisines of Southeast Asian, South Asia, Oceania, and East Africa. It is a very versatile ingredient that adds richness and depth, as well as smooth coconut flavor, to all kinds of dishes. For example, this recipe uses only part of a can of coconut milk. What should you do with the rest of it? • Use it in place of half of the water when making rice. It will make the rice fragrant and extra-fluffy. • Substitute it for cow’s milk on your morning oatmeal. • Freeze it in ice trays and add the frozen cubes to the blender when you make a smoothie; it will give your smoothie a pleasant velvety texture. • Substitute for the dairy in any pureed vegetable soup that you want to make vegan. • Use it in place of one-quarter of the liquid (water or broth) in any tomato-based soup or stew.