THE INSPIRED COOKING MAGAZINE FOR ADULTS
ISSUE 6
, YES YOU CAN
MAKE THIS
Chicken with Red Onions and Oranges
SOUP OF THE SEASON Whatever-Is-Freshest Vegetable Minestrone
FISH TO LOVE
Sautéed White Fish with Lemon and Herbs
EXPERT ADVICE
Spaghetti Carbonara, Fast and Easy
presented by
RECIPES IN THIS ISSUE Issue 6
3 Breakfast for One Soufflé in a Mug 6 Cooking with Friends Chicken with Red Onions and Oranges 8 Side Dish Pan-Roasted Asparagus
9 Soup of the Season Any-Vegetable Minestrone
15 Dessert Strawberry-Rhubarb Crunch
20 Snack or Lunch? Green-and-Bean Quesadilla
10 Make-Ahead Lunch Tuna Pan Bagnat
16 No-Cook Lunch Turkey Wrap
12 Dinner Plus Sautéed White Fish with Multigreen Salad
18 Snack Whipped Feta and Roasted Red Pepper Dip
22 Expert Advice Ruth Reichl’s Spaghetti alla Carbonara
Dear Readers,
tell you how to save leftovers. We realize, too, that budget is a concern. So when we call for something somewhat expensive, like a fresh herb, we provide ideas for using up the whole bunch so you get your money’s worth. As long as we’re meeting these goals, we feel like every once in a while we can encourage you to indulge a little—in this issue, check out Ruth Reichl’s Spaghetti alla Carbonara on page 22. You’ll be glad you did.
We’ve got many goals for this magazine. First, we want to make cooking easy and fun—because if it’s not, we know you’re not going to try it. We also want our recipes to be healthy. So we use whole grains whenever possible, for example, and cut way down on fats. Since we know many of you are cooking for one, we feature recipes like our Microwaved Soufflé (page right), and for larger recipes
Seasoned’s mission is to inspire and teach everyone to cook and eat real food. We believe that cooking skills are critical to every person’s health and happiness, that home-cooked food is more nutritious and less expensive than prepared food, and that people will eat healthy food when it tastes good. We celebrate the art of making food taste delicious, cooking with seasonal ingredients whenever possible, and enjoying the act of cooking with friends and family. 2
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25 Quench Cucumber Limeade
Happy cooking!
STAFF SALLY SAMPSON Founder/President JOHN (DOC) WILLOUGHBY Editor VIC DEROBERTIS Creative Director CARL TREMBLAY Photographer
CATRINE KELTY Food Stylist GINA HAHN Copy Editor EVILEE EBB Business Development HEIDI BROADLEY Publishing Director
CONTACT US Editorial inquiries: 617-924-3993 or write to: 695–697 Belmont Street, Belmont MA 02478 Copyright © 2019 ChopChop Family, a 501 (c)(3) corporation. ISSN 2169-0987. 6th printing, printed at LSC Communications, March 2019. Printed in the U.S.A.
BREAKFAST FOR ONE
Microwaved Soufflé in a Mug Here you go—a substantial, healthy breakfast that’s ready in five minutes and tastes great. Got two mugs? You can have a guest over for breakfast. Be aware that your cooking time will vary depending on your microwave’s size and wattage; start with the shortest time and increase in 10-second intervals. HANDS-ON TIME: 3 MINUTES TOTAL TIME: 5 MINUTES MAKES: 1 SERVING
INGREDIENTS Cooking spray, butter or vegetable oil 2 large eggs 2 tablespoons milk 2 tablespoons grated cheese such as cheddar, Swiss, or Parmesan 1/4 teaspoon kosher salt Pinch black pepper INSTRUCTIONS 1. Lightly coat the inside of an 8to 12-ounce microwave-safe cup or mug with the cooking spray, butter, or vegetable oil. 2. Crack the eggs into the mug, add the milk, grated cheese, and salt and pepper and mix well with a fork. 3. Microwave on high for 30 seconds, and then stir. Return to the microwave and cook on high until the eggs are puffed and set, 70 to 80 seconds.
Or Try This
In step 2, when stirring the eggs add any one of these: • 2–3 chopped spinach leaves and 1 tablespoon chopped tomatoes • 1 tablespoon chopped cooked ham or bacon • 1 tablespoon chopped fresh herbs, including basil, cilantro, and/or parsley leaves • 1 scallion, greens and white, chopped • 1/4 teaspoon hot sauce and 1/2 teaspoon minced onion
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QUICK BITES
4
Dried figs
Granola with yogurt
Melted cheese on whole grain toast
Frozen blueberries
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HOW TO
Blanch Vegetables Blanching vegetables just means briefly plunging them into boiling water. This softens the vegetables a bit so they are both easier to eat and less raw-tasting. But since they cook only for a minute or two at the most, the vegetables remain satisfyingly crisp. As an added benefit, blanching also brightens their color, which makes them more attractive. Blanching doesn’t work with hard vegetables like potatoes or winter squash, which need to be boiled or roasted. But it’s a great way to deal with firm vegetables like green beans, sugar snap peas, snow peas, asparagus, or broccoli. Be sure to blanch only one kind of vegetable at a time, since different vegetables take different amounts of time to soften. If you are cooking multiple batches, you can remove each batch with a slotted spoon or tongs and reuse the boiling water in the pot, rather than dumping it out. Just be sure that you blanch broccoli last, since it can flavor the water too much. INSTRUCTIONS 1. Put a colander in the sink. Fill a large pot halfway with water, put it on the stove, and turn the heat to high. 2. When the water comes to a boil, carefully add 2 cups of any one kind of firm vegetable. 3. Blanch the vegetable until it turns bright-colored and is tender to your liking, 30 seconds to 2 minutes. To see if it’s done to your liking, fish out a piece with a slotted spoon or tongs, run it briefly under cold water, and taste it. 4. Drain the vegetable in the colander and run cold water over it until it’s completely cool. (This stops the cooking.) Drain well and spread on a clean dish towel or paper towels to dry before using.
Blanched Broccoli with Simple Vinaigrette
For a quick side dish suitable for any meal, blanch whatever amount of broccoli you want to serve (a whole head generally serves about six people, so use that as a guide), sprinkle it with salt and pepper, and drizzle it generously with the dressing found on page 14 of this issue. If you like heat, sprinkle the broccoli with a bit of dried red pepper flakes, too.
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COOKING WITH FRIENDS
Chicken with Red Onions and Oranges This sheet-pan dinner is fun and easy, which makes it particularly good for cooking with guests. The chicken can sit in the refrigerator overnight in the marinade, so, if you want to, you can prepare that part of the recipe well ahead. Don’t worry if you have leftovers, either—while it’s delicious right out of the oven, it’s also great cold. The orange gets tender after cooking, so you can eat it peel and all. Serve with steamed brown rice.
HANDS-ON TIME: 30 MINUTES TOTAL TIME: 1 HOUR 15 MINUTES MAKES: 4 SERVINGS
INGREDIENTS 4 bone-in, skin-on chicken thighs (if there are pieces of extra fat hanging off of the chicken, use kitchen scissors or a knife to cut them off, but leave the skin on) 3 tablespoons fresh orange or lemon juice 2 tablespoons vegetable or olive oil 1/2 teaspoon kosher salt 1/4 teaspoon black pepper 2 red onions, peeled and thinly sliced 2 oranges, scrubbed and very thinly sliced
INSTRUCTIONS 1. Turn the oven on and set the heat to 450 degrees. 2. Put the chicken, orange or lemon juice, oil, salt, and pepper in a large bowl and mix well. Proceed with the recipe or cover and refrigerate up to overnight. 3. Put the onions and oranges on a rimmed baking sheet, making sure they are in a single layer, not crowded on top of one another. 4. Put the chicken and its marinade on top of the onions and oranges, and tilt the pan to distribute the marinade to the edges. 5. Transfer the baking sheet to the oven and cook until the onions and fruit have softened and darkened and the chicken is browned on top and cooked through, 35 to 45 minutes. (To check that the chicken is cooked thoroughly, cut a piece in half; it should have no pink near the bone.) 6. Move the chicken to a serving platter, top with the roasted fruit, and serve.
Unfair to Chickens?
No one quite knows why, but chickens have always had a reputation as cowards. At least as far back as the mid-fifteenth century, people used the expression “hen-herte,” which meant a chicken-hearted person—someone who was afraid—as opposed to a lionhearted person, who was courageous.
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SIDE DISH
PanRoasted Asparagus Asparagus used to be available only in the spring, so it was one of the great treats that cooks looked forward to every year. Now you can buy it in the supermarket all year round, but springtime asparagus is still the best. If you have a farmers’ market near you, that’s a great source for fresh local asparagus. HANDS-ON TIME: 5 MINUTES TOTAL TIME: 5 MINUTES MAKES: 2 TO 4 SERVINGS
INGREDIENTS 1 bunch asparagus, trimmed 2 tablespoons water 1 teaspoon olive oil 1/4 lemon INSTRUCTIONS 1. Put the asparagus, water, and oil in a large skillet over high heat. 2. Bring to a boil, and then cook until the water has been absorbed and the asparagus starts to sizzle, about 5 minutes. Roll the asparagus over about halfway through cooking, so it cooks evenly. 3. Remove the asparagus from the skillet, squeeze the lemon over it, and serve right away.
How (and Why) to Trim Asparagus
The bottom parts of asparagus stalks are woody and rather tough. The traditional way to trim them is simply to bend the stalks until they snap, and discard the bottom part. Another option, which is easier for many folk with wrist problems, is to use a chef’s knife to cut off the bottom inch or so of each stalk.
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SOUP OF THE SEASON
Any-Vegetable Minestrone What looks good at the market? Chard, new potatoes, green beans? Great. Use them. Spinach, squash? Also great. Use those instead—or also. As long as the vegetables are good, the soup will be great. This makes a lot of soup, which is perfect, because it freezes beautifully: just portion it into zipper-lock bags and label them with the date and contents (“1 cup minestrone, 4/16/19”) and it will be ready when you are. Or, of course, you could easily halve the recipe. ACTIVE TIME: 1 HOUR TOTAL TIME: 2 HOURS MAKES: 12 CUPS
INGREDIENTS 2 tablespoons olive oil 1 large onion, peeled and chopped 2 carrots, peeled and diced 2 celery stalks, diced, with a handful of celery leaves, finely chopped 2 garlic cloves, peeled and minced 4 cups diced or shredded vegetables—any combination of potatoes, cabbage, chard, kale, collard or mustard greens, summer or winter squash, fresh or canned tomatoes ½ cup raw barley or brown rice (or 1–2 cups cooked, leftover grains) 1 (15-ounce) can garbanzo, pinto, black, red, or white beans, or black-eyed peas, drained and rinsed or 2 cups cooked beans 4 cups low-sodium chicken or vegetable broth 4 cups water 1 cup baby spinach and/or sliced okra and/or trimmed green beans Kosher salt and black pepper, to taste Freshly grated Parmesan cheese INSTRUCTIONS 1. Put a large, heavy-bottomed pot on the stove and set the heat to medium. When the pot is hot, add the oil. 2. Add the onion, carrots, celery, and garlic and cook until tender, about 10 minutes. 3. Add the remaining fresh vegetables, other than the spinach, okra, and/or green beans, and cook, stirring from time to time, for 10 minutes. 4. Add the uncooked barley or rice (if using), beans, broth, and water, and cook, partially covered, until everything is tender, about 45 minutes. 5. Add the spinach, okra, and/or green beans and, if you are using cooked grains, add them now and cook until everything is heated throughout, about 5 minutes. 6. Taste the soup: does it need salt or pepper? Add a pinch if it does. 7. Serve garnished with a sprinkle of Parmesan cheese.
Tip Don’t just freeze in any old plastic container because many are
not made for that use and will crack in the freezer. Zipper-lock plastic bags are a much better option. seasoned
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MAKE-AHEAD, NO-COOK LUNCH
Tuna Pan Bagnat Pan bagnat (pronounced pan ban-YAH) is Provençal French for “bathed bread”—and it describes an especially juicy type of sandwich. You can use this tuna salad on a regular sandwich or, to be French about it, serve each portion inside a six-inch length of baguette (ideally whole-wheat) that you have hollowed out. Note that the salad itself needs to sit in the refrigerator for at least two hours for the flavors to meld—and it can stay in there for up to three days, so this is an ideal make-ahead lunch. HANDS-ON TIME: 20 MINUTES TOTAL TIME: 2 HOURS 20 MINUTES MAKES: 2 TO 3 SERVINGS
INGREDIENTS 1 (5-ounce) can tuna packed in water * (any kind is fine) 2 tablespoons olive oil 1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice 1 tablespoon plain yogurt 1 teaspoon Dijon mustard 1 anchovy, drained and finely chopped (if you like) 1/2 red bell pepper, cored and finely diced 1/2 cup chopped fresh Italian flat-leaf parsley leaves 1/4 red onion, peeled and finely chopped Whole-wheat baguette or sandwich bread
Or Try This
INSTRUCTIONS 1. To drain the tuna: Set a colander in the sink, then open the can and empty the tuna into the colander. Using a fork, press down on the tuna to squeeze the liquid out. Allow it to drain away. 2. Put the olive oil, lemon juice, yogurt, mustard, and anchovy in a medium-sized bowl and stir well. 3. Add the drained tuna and break up the clumps with the fork. 4. Add the bell pepper, parsley, and red onion, and mix well. Taste the salad, and add more lemon or mustard, or a pinch of salt, if you think it needs it. 5. Cover and refrigerate at least 2 hours (to let the flavors meld) and up to 3 days. 6. Hollow out the baguette, slice into 6-inch lengths, and fill one half of each length with the salad, then cover with the other half. Or spread the salad thickly on regular sandwich bread.
This salad is quite versatile and lends itself to adding all kinds of different flavors. Try stirring in any—or all—of these: • Chopped fresh basil leaves • Sliced black olives • Quartered artichoke hearts • Chopped cooked green beans • Canned cannellini or Great Northern white beans
Or You Could
For an even more authentic version, after you fill the baguette lengths with the tuna salad, wrap them in plastic wrap and put them in a plastic bag, then put them back in the fridge, weigh them down with something heavy like a small castiron skillet, and leave them for at least 30 minutes or up to several hours. This allows the flavors to marry more completely and the filling to dissolve somewhat into the bread.
* If you use tuna packed in oil, don’t drain it and omit olive oil from the recipe
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DINNER PLUS
SautĂŠed White Fish with Multigreen Salad and Strawberry-Rhubarb Crunch
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Sautéed White Fish with Lemon and Herbs “White fish” is a term used to describe a number of species of fish that have mild flavor and flaky, lightcolored flesh. High in protein and low in fat, they are also quick-cooking, which makes them an excellent choice for an easy, nutritious meal. Tilapia might be the best choice here because it is both farm-raised, which means it is not endangered, and also the least expensive in most stores. HANDS-ON TIME: 12 MINUTES TOTAL TIME: 12 MINUTES MAKES: 2 SERVINGS
INGREDIENTS 2 (4- to 6-ounce) white fish fillets such as tilapia, cod, halibut, haddock, or flounder 3 teaspoons olive oil 1/2 teaspoon kosher salt 1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper 1 large lemon, cut in quarters and seeded ½ teaspoon dried or 2 teaspoons fresh herbs such as rosemary, thyme, or oregano
INSTRUCTIONS 1. Rub 11/2 teaspoons of olive oil on each fillet, lightly coating both sides of each, and then sprinkle both sides with salt and pepper. 2. Put a skillet or sauté pan on the stove and turn the heat to medium-high. When the skillet is hot, add the fish. Cook until the fillets are lightly browned and the flesh flakes easily and is just opaque in the middle, 2 to 4 minutes on each side, depending on the thickness of the fish. 3. Squeeze 1 lemon quarter over each fillet, remove from the heat, and sprinkle with the herbs. Serve with the remaining lemon wedges.
Or Try This
Just before serving, top each fillet with any one of the following: • 1/4 teaspoon of Sazón seasoning, curry powder, or other spice mix of your choice • A dollop of pesto • A dollop of tapenade (black olive paste) or 1 teaspoon minced black olives • 1/2 teaspoon chopped fresh tomato plus 1/4 teaspoon minced garlic • A spoonful of salsa seasoned
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DINNER PLUS
Multigreen Salad
If picking out five separate salad greens is too complicated (or expensive), feel free to use a bag of mixed salad greens. Please note that this recipe makes a lot of dressing—more than you’ll need for a single salad. Refrigerate the leftover dressing in a sealed container. HANDS-ON TIME: 20 MINUTES TOTAL TIME: 20 MINUTES MAKES: 1 CUP DRESSING
INGREDIENTS 3/4 cup olive oil 1/3 cup vinegar, any kind 1/4 teaspoon kosher salt 1/8 teaspoon black pepper 6 cups mixed greens, washed and torn into bite-size pieces INSTRUCTIONS 1. To make the dressing: Put the oil, vinegar, salt, pepper, and any optional add-ins (see below) in a jar with a tight-fitting lid, and shake to combine OR put everything in a bowl and whisk well OR put everything except the oil in a blender or food processor fitted with a steel blade and put the top on tightly. Turn the machine on, blend and then slowly add the oil. (This makes the creamiest dressing.) 2. Put the torn greens into a salad bowl and drizzle with the salad dressing until lightly coated (you will have lots left over for more salads). Toss with tongs or salad servers, and serve right away.
Or Try This
You can add more flavor to your dressing by mixing in one or more of these: • 1 teaspoon Dijon mustard • 1–2 garlic cloves, peeled and minced • 1 teaspoon dried oregano, basil, or thyme • 2 tablespoons plain yogurt • 2 tablespoons sesame tahini
Salad Greens Make your salad with five greens you haven’t tasted before. Here are some you might try: • Arugula: also called “rocket;” peppery and spicy • Belgian endive: bitter and crunchy; great paired with strong, creamy cheeses • Bibb lettuce: mild and sweet 14
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• Boston lettuce: buttery, very soft leaves • Chervil: a licoricey herb • Chicory (curly endive): has a nice bite but can be slightly bitter to some • Cress: hot and peppery • Dandelion greens: bitter; warm the dressing to mellow out the bitterness • Endive: sweet, bitter, crunchy
• Frisée: slightly sweet, slightly bitter; good paired with nuts and cheese • Green oak-leaf lettuce: mild and slightly grassy • Green chard: spinachlike; use baby leaves for salad • Mustard greens: crunchy, slightly bitter and cabbagey • Radicchio: beautiful deep red color; bitter and slightly peppery
• Red chard (and beet greens): slightly sweet and grassy; use baby leaves in salad • Red oak-leaf lettuce: mild and slightly nutty • Romaine lettuce: very crunchy, slightly sweet, slightly bitter • Watercress: peppery, spicy, great with citrus fruit
Strawberry-Rhubarb Crunch You can use just about any kind of fruit in this easy dessert, depending on what’s in season. Since it’s spring, we use strawberries and rhubarb in this version. If you can’t find fresh fruit, frozen works fine; you don’t even need to thaw it before cooking. This crunch keeps in the refrigerator for up to three days; so you can serve it just out of the oven with this menu, and then have the rest whenever you want. HANDS-ON HANDS-ONTIME: TIME: 30 30 MINUTES MINUTES TOTAL TOTALTIME: TIME: 11 HOUR HOUR 55 MINUTES MINUTES MAKES: MAKES: 6-8 3 SERVINGS SERVINGS
INGREDIENTS For the filling 1 pint (2 cups) strawberries, hulled and quartered if fresh, left whole if frozen 4 cups (about 1 pound) sliced rhubarb 1/4 cup white sugar 2 tablespoons all-purpose flour For the topping 2/3 cup coarsely chopped, toasted walnuts or pecans* 1/3 cup whole-wheat or all-purpose flour 1/4 cup brown sugar 4 tablespoons (1/2 stick) unsalted butter, melted 2 tablespoons white sugar 1/4 teaspoon kosher salt INSTRUCTIONS 1. Turn the oven on and set the heat to 300 degrees. 2. To make the filling: Put the strawberries, rhubarb, sugar, and flour in an ungreased 8- x 8-inch baking pan and stir until you don’t see any dry patches of flour. 3. To make the topping: Put the topping ingredients in a mediumsized bowl and combine, by hand or with 2 forks, until the mixture is crumbly. 4. Put the nut mixture on top of the fruit. Put the pan in the oven and bake until the top is golden brown, about 35 minutes. 5. Serve right away hot, warm, or at room temperature. Or cover and refrigerate up to 3 days. * How to Toast Nuts To toast nuts, put them on a baking sheet in a 250-degree oven and cook, shaking the tray every couple of minutes, until you just start to smell the aroma and the nuts look a shade darker, about 10 minutes.
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NO-COOK LUNCH
Turkey Wrap with Hummus and Cheese Lavash is a Middle Eastern flatbread that is often topped with sesame seeds. If you can’t find any in your local market, multigrain tortillas are a perfect substitute. HANDS-ON TIME: 15 MINUTES TOTAL TIME: 15 MINUTES MAKES: 2 SERVINGS
INGREDIENTS 2 multigrain lavash or 8-inch tortillas 2 tablespoons hummus, storebought or homemade 4 slices roasted or smoked turkey breast 2 romaine lettuce leaves 2 tomato slices 2 slices cheddar cheese (or 2 tablespoons crumbled feta cheese, or whatever kind of cheese you like best) INSTRUCTIONS 1. Lay out the lavash or tortilla on a clean work surface. 2. Spread 1 tablespoon hummus on each wrap, then top each with 2 slices turkey, 1 romaine leaf, 1 tomato slice, and 1 cheese slice (or 1 tablespoons crumbled cheese), making a line of filling down the middle, leaving a little room at the top and bottom. 3. Fold an inch of the bottom of the wrap up over the filling, and then fold an inch of each side over it. Pinching the folded corner portions, roll the wrap up tightly into a log. 4. Wrap in foil, wax paper, or parchment paper. Serve right away.
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SNACK
Whipped Feta and Roasted Red Pepper Dip Chef Ana Sortun, a good friend to ChopChop Family, allowed us to adapt the recipe she uses in her Boston-area Middle Eastern restaurants. When you order this Turkish dip, it’s easy to assume it’s a complicated and time-consuming recipe. Make it yourself and you’ll see that it isn’t. This recipe can easily be halved. HANDS-ON TIME: 20 MINUTES TOTAL TIME: 45 MINUTES MAKES: 2 CUPS
INGREDIENTS 1 red bell pepper, stemmed, halved lengthwise, and seeds and white ribs removed 1/2 pound feta cheese, broken into chunks 2 tablespoons olive oil 1/2 teaspoon fresh lemon juice 1/4 teaspoon red pepper flakes (or more if you like it spicy) 1/4 teaspoon paprika (any kind is fine) INSTRUCTIONS 1. Arrange one of your oven racks so that it is close to the top of the oven, nearest the broiler. Set the broiler to high. 2. Put the pepper halves cut side down on a baking sheet.Carefully put the sheet on the top oven rack and broil until the peppers are well blackened, 10 to 15
minutes. (All broilers are different, so start checking after 5 minutes.) 3. Using the tongs, put the peppers in a medium-sized bowl and cover with a plate. Set aside until the peppers are cool enough to handle, 15 to 20 minutes. 4. Peel and rub off as much of the blackened skin from the peppers as you can and throw away the skin. 5. Put the peppers in the bowl of a food processor fitted with a steel blade and process until finely chopped. Add the remaining ingredients and process until almost smooth but still a bit chunky. 6. Using the spatula, scoop the dip into a serving bowl or lidded container. Serve right away or cover and refrigerate up to 3 days.
Or You Could
It’s not hard to roast fresh bell peppers, and they have the very best flavor. But if you want to make this recipe even quicker and easier, you can substitute 1 large or 2 small jarred roasted red peppers packed in oil. In that case, the instructions are: Put all the ingredients in the food processor, process until almost smooth but still a bit chunky, and scoop into a serving bowl or lidded container.
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SNACK (OR LUNCH)
Green-and-Bean Quesadilla A quesadilla is like a Mexican grilled cheese sandwich, but instead of using slices of bread, it uses corn or flour tortillas. Quesadillas are quick, easily adaptable and, above all, delicious. Here we add spinach and kidney beans to the cheese filling for a more substantial version. Cut into eight pieces, this makes a great snack, but if you cut it in half it becomes a light lunch. HANDS-ON TIME: 10 MINUTES TOTAL TIME: 30 MINUTES MAKES: 2 SERVINGS
INGREDIENTS 2 (10-inch) whole-grain tortillas 1 small bunch fresh spinach (enough to cover the tortillas), washed and patted dry 1/2 cup canned dark red kidney beans, drained and rinsed with cold water, then mashed 2/3 cup shredded Monterey Jack or cheddar cheese 1/2 ripe avocado, peeled and pitted, sliced (optional) INSTRUCTIONS 1. Put one tortilla on a microwave-safe plate and cover it with the spinach leaves. Top the spinach leaves with the mashed beans, then top the beans with the shredded cheese. Top with the avocado if using. 2. Put the other tortilla on top of the avocado, gently pressing it down so the top half sticks. (Don’t pat it down too hard or the filling will squish out.) 3. Put a nonstick skillet on the stove over medium heat until it’s hot, then put the tortilla in the skillet. Cook until golden brown, 1–2 minutes on each side. Or you can put the plate in the microwave and heat until the cheese melts, about 45 seconds. 4. Set aside to cool slightly, and then cut into 8 wedges for snacks or in half for a lunch. Serve with salsa.
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ADVICE FROM AN EXPERT
Ruth Reichl on Carbonara BY RUTH REICHL
Ruth Reichl, a writer, editor, and author, is among America’s foremost authorities on food and cooking. She was the restaurant critic and food editor for the Los Angeles Times, restaurant critic for the New York Times, and Editorin-Chief of Gourmet magazine for 10 years. She has won numerous awards, including six James Beard Awards for her food writing, and has written seven books, including the just-published Save Me the Plums (Random House).
Wandering around Rome with my ten-yearold son, I came upon a little trattoria emitting such delicious aromas it simply stopped us in our tracks. There was no sign and no door, just some glass beads hanging down. We entered to find a whitewashed room with papercovered tables and a scene that seemed straight out of Fellini. People were crammed into small chairs at tiny tables, gesticulating wildly as they devoured giant plates of food. All around us was the clatter of Roman dialect: strong, emphatic, and opinionated. A single waiter dashed about, delivering dishes, and when we peeked into the kitchen there was just one cook, moving at the speed of light. Dirty dishes were piling up, obviously to be dealt with at some later time. The menu was small, but Nick instantly chose pasta alla carbonara, which arrived in seconds, great swirls of spaghetti tossed
with golden egg yolks and sprinkled with heaps of cheese. I eyed the plate skeptically, thinking my very picky child would never eat it. To my surprise he gobbled it up. Then he asked for more. We went back every day, and I soon learned that the trattoria, Antonio Bassetti, has been feeding Romans for three generations. Reliable and inexpensive, it’s affectionately known as “Da Tonino.” Back in New York we all missed Tonino’s cooking so much that I worked up an American version of carbonara; the bacon lends it a slightly less rustic profile than the more robust Roman guanciale, and I use Parmesan instead of Pecorino. Still, I never make this wonderfully easy dish without thinking of that day in Rome when we followed our noses into a little trattoria that would become one of our favorite restaurants in the world.
Ruth’s Spaghetti alla Carbonara This simple but delicious dish can be made from scratch in 25 minutes assuming you have an egg, a clove of garlic, and some bacon, spaghetti, and Parmesan cheese. The secret is to move fast once you drain the spaghetti—you want to combine it with the egg while the pasta is still hot enough to cook the egg. See our carbonara rules and a step-by-step pictorial on page 24. HANDS-ON TIME: 20 MINUTES TOTAL TIME: 25 MINUTES MAKES: 2 SERVINGS
INGREDIENTS 1 large egg Freshly ground pepper to taste 1/2 pound spaghetti 2 strips bacon, cut into ½-inch pieces 1 garlic clove, peeled 1/4 cup grated Parmesan cheese, plus extra for the table INSTRUCTIONS 1. Put a large pot of salted water on the stove and turn the heat to high. 2. Break the egg into a large bowl, grind in some pepper, and beat well with a fork. 3. When the water comes to a boil, add the spaghetti 22
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and cook, stirring occasionally, until it’s just al dente (almost cooked through but still has a bit of resistance in the center), 8 to 12 minutes depending on the brand. Start testing at 6 minutes. 4. While the spaghetti is cooking, put a skillet on the stove and turn the heat to medium-high. Add the bacon and cook for 2 minutes, until the fat begins to render. Add the whole garlic clove and cook until the edges of the bacon just begin to get crisp, stirring frequently, about 5 minutes. 5. Remove the garlic from the bacon and pour all but about 1 tablespoon of bacon fat out of the pan. 6. Drain the pasta and immediately add it to the bowl with the beaten egg. Using tongs or two forks, toss fast and thoroughly. Add the bacon and its fat, toss again, then add the cheese and toss one final time. Serve right away.
Note: Bacon Dispensation
Because it is high in fat and cholesterol, we don’t often use bacon in our recipes. But carbonara wouldn’t be carbonara without it, so we use a relatively small amount to flavor the dish. Think of this recipe as an occasional treat. seasoned
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The Carbonara Rules • Texture matters with pasta, so be careful not to overcook it. What you are looking for is pasta that is firm to the bite—that is, soft but still with a bit of resistance in the center. • Start sampling the pasta 2 minutes before the directions say it will be done. The easiest way to do this is to use kitchen tongs to pick up a strand or two and bite them. • Don’t be afraid to use a little bit of the bacon fat. It adds so much flavor it would be a crime to throw it all away. • Make it fast. You have to drain the pasta and toss it with the eggs while it’s still boiling hot to let the heat cook the eggs. Once you add the pasta to the eggs, toss like mad. • Use plenty of freshly ground black pepper; it is the perfect finishing touch. (If you have trouble with pepper grinders, see our recommendation on page 30.)
1. Toss pasta with the beaten egg.
2. Add the bacon and a tablespoon of its fat.
3. Toss the pasta again.
4. Add the cheese.
5. Toss one final time and serve.
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QUENCH
Cucumber Limeade Cucumbers are so cool and refreshing that they make a fantastic thirst quencher. Pair with some tangy lime—peel and all—and prepare to chill. Remember that whenever you use the peel of a citrus fruit like lime, lemon, or orange, you should scrub it very well first. HANDS-ON TIME: 20 MINUTES TOTAL TIME: 20 MINUTES MAKES: 4 SERVINGS
INGREDIENTS 1 English cucumber, peeled, and thinly sliced 1 lime, scrubbed, quartered, and thinly sliced 2 tablespoons honey or real maple syrup Pinch kosher salt 4 cups cold water Ice cubes INSTRUCTIONS 1. Set aside 4 of the cucumber slices, and put the rest of the slices into a mediumsized bowl. 2. Add the lime slices, honey or maple syrup, and a pinch of salt to the cucumber slices. Use a potato masher or wooden spoon to mash them until the lime gives up its juice, the cucumber is completely smashed, and the honey or maple syrup is dissolved, about 2 minutes. Add the water and stir well. 3. Set a mesh strainer over a pitcher and pour the limeade mixture through it. Use the wooden spoon to mash the mixture against the mesh of the strainer to release as much liquid as possible. Serve right away with ice, garnished with the reserved cucumber and lime slices.
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Kitchen Tips and Tricks Sometimes it’s not the big techniques, but the little tricks that count most in the kitchen. Here are a few we like that we learned either from experience or from other cooks.
Keep Lettuce Fresh
Lettuce fades fast, but one way to keep it fresh longer is to put the lettuce in a bowl, drape a paper towel over it, and then cover the bowl with plastic wrap. The paper towel absorbs moisture, helping to prevent wilting and sogginess for up to a week.
Honey is Forever
When honey crystallizes it is hard to use, and some people throw it out, thinking it has gone bad. But in fact, honey literally never goes bad. Three-thousand-year-old honey found in jars in the Egyptian pyramids is still edible today. So when your honey crystallizes, just put the container in a pan of simmering water for a few minutes. The crystals will re-melt and your honey will be good as new again. The flavor of the honey is not affected, so you can do this over and over again, until you’ve finished every last drop.
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Chill Out, Plastic Wrap
There are few things more irritating than when plastic wrap sticks to itself and gets tangled up as you are pulling it out of the box. There’s an easy way to prevent this: Keeping plastic wrap in the refrigerator eliminates static electricity, so it will stretch evenly and smoothly without sticking to itself.
Not Just for Ice
When cooking for one or two, it’s hard to avoid wasting food, especially when using products like canned tomatoes, tomato paste, and coconut milk, which come in relatively large containers. One easy answer is to freeze whatever you don’t use in ice cube trays. Once they’re frozen, transfer the cubes to a freezer-safe bag, and you can defrost however many you need for future recipes.
SMART SNACKING
7 Things To Do with Hummus Hummus is a Middle Eastern spread made from cooked, mashed chickpeas blended with tahini, olive oil, lemon juice, salt, and garlic. We are big fans and use it in all kinds of ways. Here are a few: • • • • • • •
Use as a dip Use instead of mayonnaise in sandwiches Top burgers with a generous dollop Thin out with water or yogurt and use as a salad dressing Stir into the filling for deviled eggs Mix into mashed potatoes instead of butter Dollop on grilled shrimp, fish, or chicken
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CROSSWORD BY MYLES MELLOR
Across 1 Fruit with red seeds 9 Uncooked 10 German “the” 12 Cuisine that includes korma and naan bread 14 Florida citrus fruit 16 Eggs at a sushi bar 18 Herb used in stuffing 19 Mortar and ___ 22 Me? 25 Apple, plum or pear bearer 27 Pa. neighbor 28 Brazil or almond 29 White would be chicken, red would be beef 30 Take the rind off
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31 Flat-bladed implement in the kitchen 34 Have a meal 35 Bolognese partner 36 Overnight stay place 37 Fry briefly over high heat 38 Eagerly excited
Down
1 Matched set of two 2 Cooked, as a meal 3 Cheese-shredding gadget 4 Managed 5 __, shucks! 6 Atmosphere 7 “Hairspray” heroine 8 ___ range eggs
11 Quiche ingredient 13 Traditional Yule drink 15 High marks in exams 17 Simmer slowly 20 Coming from (as in an aroma from the kitchen) 21 Light brown sugar cane 23 Allowing to sit in a liquid to extract flavor 24 Device for separating liquids and solids 25 Snacks at a Spanish bar 26 Unagi, at a sushi restaurant 31 Gels 32 Small amount of butter 33 Closed Answers on page 30
GET MOVING
Exercise #1: Rock the Boat Stand straight with your head level, your arms outstretched to the sides, and with your feet apart so that the space between them is the same width as your hips. Transfer your weight to your right foot and slowly lift your left leg off the ground. Hold that position for up to 30 seconds. Slowly put your foot back onto the ground, and then transfer your weight to that foot. Slowly lift your opposite leg. Start by doing this exercise five times per side.
Exercise #2: Wall Push-ups Stand an arm’s length in front of a wall that doesn’t have any paintings, decorations, windows, or doors. Lean forward slightly and put your palms flat on the wall at the height and width of your shoulders. Keep your feet planted as you slowly bring your body towards the wall. Gently push yourself back so that your arms are straight. Repeat this 20 times, if you can. seasoned
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KITCHEN ESSENTIALS Ergonomic Pepper Grinder If you are using pre-ground black pepper from a jar, switching to grinding your own peppercorns is a fast way to improve the flavor of almost everything you cook. But for anyone with joint pain, many pepper grinders are hard to fill and turn. That’s why we like the OXO Good Grips Lewis Pepper Mill. It has an oversized nonslip crank that is easy to grip and turn, plus the large door on the side—which is clear so that you can see when you are running low on peppercorns—opens wide for easy refilling.
Crossword key Quarter Sheet Pan Sheet pan recipes like the Chicken with Oranges and Onions on page 6 are an easy (and delicious) way to cook a dish with several components. But if you’re cooking for one or two people instead of four or six, the usual sheet pan is too large—liquid can easily run onto the part of the pan with no food on it and burn. The answer? A quarter sheet pan, which measures 9-1/2 x 13 inches. We like the Nordic Ware pan, but are also big fans of the OXO Good Grips Non-Stick Pro Jelly Roll Pan, which is what they call their quarter sheet pan.
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A special thank you We needed a beautiful and functional place to teach classes and test our recipes, and, thanks to our wonderful sponsors, we now have the perfect space. Thank you to our brilliant designer, Stephen Brockman from Deborah Berke Partners in New York City, for designing our beautiful new kitchen, and to Lee Cook and everyone else at Buildout Construction for their tireless grace and stellar work.
Sponsors and Partners
Friends
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WHAT IS …
Dijon Mustard Dijon is a type of prepared mustard that originated in Dijon, a town in the Burgundy region of France that was the center of mustard-making during the Middle Ages. It is made with brown mustard seeds, white wine or vinegar, and salt. It comes in both creamy and grainy versions and has more body and deeper flavor than traditional yellow mustard, along with a nice, nose-tingling heat.
8 Ways to Use Dijon Mustard • Add 1 teaspoon to your favorite salad dressing • Stir into potato salad • Mix with equal amounts of yogurt and mayonnaise as a sandwich spread • Toss into roasted carrots • Mix into coleslaw • Spread a blend of equal amounts soy sauce and Dijon on chicken and roast at 400 degrees. • Slather onto a pork chop, pan-fry it, then top with Panko bread crumbs • Toss with roasted potatoes 32
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