Hutspot: history through the eyes of food by chrisboender

history through the eyes of food

Design for the hutspot tablecloth by Chris Boender

Explore history through the eyes of the traditional Dutch dish ‘hutspot’ while dining at a tablecloth depicting the comprehensive history of this delicious potato, carrot and onion dish. Hutspot definitely stands the test of time and witnessed history from up close. The tablecloth is accompanied by this booklet, not only describing the imagery shown on the tablecloth but also giving you delicious hutspot recipes to try out yourself. Enjoy, taste and connect through the history of food. 3

1. The Netherlands during the 16th century 2. Charles V Holy Roman Emperor 3. Phillips II of Spain, son of Charles the V

Five centuries ago the Netherlands was part of the Spanish Empire, ruled by Charles V, Holy Roman Emperor. Because of its wealth the Netherlands (which at the time were the current Netherlands plus Belgium) were considered the jewel in the Spanish crown. Charles his jewel was, just like the rest of the Spanish Empire, under strict Catholic rule. This regime was being threatened by religious reformers who had a different interpretation of Christianity and who demanded freedom of religion. The regime responded with bans, inquisitions, burnings, torture and other coercive measures. Charles V stepped down in 1555 and was succeeded by his son Phillip II who continued the reign of 5

4. Iconoclastic Fury, 1566

5 5. Turkish sultan Süleyman 6. Grand Duke of Alba 7. William of Orange

7 8

terror. A growing number of people were shouting for religious freedom and resistance became more and more violent. This resulting in the Iconoclastic Fury, interiors of churches, monasteries and other Catholic buildings were completely demolished. Phillip wanted to intervene, but also the Turks were gaining power in the East. When the Turkish sultan Süleyman died in 1566, Phillip sent the Grand Duke of Alba along with a small army of 10.000 soldiers to the Netherlands so they could re-establish authority. He crushed any form of resistance and made dissenters flee, among whom the wealthy nobleman William of Orange. 9

9 8. Commander of the Watergeuzen, Willem II van der Marck Lumey 9. 16th century map of Den Briel

Followed by about 60.000 allies William began leading the Dutch Revolt. In 1568 they attempted to recapture several Dutch cities. This heralded the beginning of the Eighty Years’ War. Some of the insurgents had fled to the sea by ship, under the name of ‘Watergeuzen’ (Sea Beggars) they were pirating the North Sea. On April 1st 1572 they ended up in the Dutch city Den Briel, where there happened to be almost no Spanish soldiers. The Watergeuzen decided to take over the city where the inhabitants joined them. 1572 became a turning point, at the end of that year a large part of the Netherlands was revolting with William in charge. After Den Briel numerous 11

11 10. Floods surrounding the city of Alkmaar during the siege 11. 16th century map of Alkmaar

cities opened their gates for the Watergeuzen. In August 1573 Alkmaar followed. There William decided to pierce the dikes so the water would flow through, surrounding the city to trap the Spaniards, leading to their first big defeat. 13

13 12. The tribulation of the Netherlands under the Grand Duke of Alba 13. Pamphlet on the decision to introduce the tiende penning

Since the Grand Duke of Alba arrived in the Netherlands his army had grown to a number of 86.000 men, costing tremendous amounts of money. Phillips used the ‘tiende penning’ (tenth penny) as a special kind of tax to maintain his army. But that penny was not enough. The Dutch were very aware of the tax its purpose and the threat of war for the financial stability of the Spanish Empire. 15

15 14. Pope Pius V 15. Pendant with the slogan “Liver Turcx dan Paus” (“Rather Turkish than Pope”), and “En Despit de la Mes” (“In Spite of mass”)

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Money wasn’t the only problem for Phillips II. Meanwhile the Turks got through to Tunis, the centre of the Mediterranean, where they became a severe threat. To emphasize this threat and to mock Spaniards the Watergeuzen went to battle with the slogan: “Liever Turks dan Paaps” which translates to “Rather Turkish than Papist” (a Papist is a follower of the Pope). A

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16. Map of the besieged Leiden, with the Lammenschans depicted below

18 17. Leiden surrounded by the Spanish troops 18. The Sick Child by Gabriël Metsu

After their defeat in Alkmaar the Spaniards took off to the city of Leiden in October. By the end of the month commander Francisco de Valdez and his troops completely surrounded the city. Because of their loss in Alkmaar Francisco decided not to attack the city but to starve its residents. At first this wouldn’t work because the city had enough food in stock. The Spaniards kept losing other cities in the Netherlands and more and more troops ended up around Leiden. Soldiers prevented residents from accessing their crops just outside the city. By July 1574 the whole city had to be rationed. In that same month the plague broke out and infected houses were locked down. 21

On July 30th William of Orange decided to repeat his Alkmaar trick by flooding a huge area around Leiden making it easier to supply the city and to thwart the Spaniards. The farmers from the affected area were ordered to leave with their cattle to Orange-minded cities. Leaving was not the only disaster for the farmers. They feared that their soil would remain too wet for agriculture or livestock for a long time afterwards. The water level rose and hunger struck. Edible animals were counted; 386 cattle and 76 horses for a population of 15.000 people. The story goes that the Mayer of Leiden offered his own body as food for the hungry people, because he didn’t have anything else to give. 23

19. The self-sacrifice of Mayor Van der Werf by Mattheus Ignatius van Bree

19. Watergeuzen approaching Leiden through the flouded areas

The Watergeuzen were approaching Leiden, you could already hear the sounds of their gunfire. An attack at Leiden’s Lammenschans-area (a defensive structure) was prepared by the Watergeuzen and the insurgents of Leiden. On Sunday morning October 3rd 1574 the time had come to liberate Leiden and to driveout the Spaniards. 27

10. The starving population after the siege of Leiden by Otto van Veen

20. Cauldron found by Cornelis Joppenz, on display in museum the Lakenenhal 21. Six Carolusguldens, named after Charles V

A legend tells that the thirteen-year-old orphan boy Cornelis Joppensz got curious and wanted to take a closer look at the Spaniards in the Lammenschans. Once he arrived the Spanish camp turned out to be abandoned. Cornelis climbed the city wall and waved to the people of Leiden. Cornelis returned to the city, not only with good news but also bringing a Spanish cauldron filled

22. October 3rd with hutspot by Alexander Bakker Korff 23. The Dutch Queen Juliana eating hutspot in Leiden on 3 October 1974

with a stew they called ‘hutspot’ from which he fed the hungry city. As reward Cornelis Joppensz received six gulden. Since that day, the hutspot has been inextricably linked to the city of Leiden, eating it every year during the celebration of 3 October.

Take pieces of beef shank and put them up with water and salt. Boil them half cooked, take them out and put them in a pan. fry bacon bits. Cut onions into pieces and fry them in the bacon fat. Add them to the meat in the pan. Add pepper, nutmeg and ginger and pour in enough stock to just cover everything. Let it simmer gently. For each plate, take say hard-boiled egg yolks and some white bread, soak them in vinegar and work them through a sieve. Sprinkle the dish with it. Sprinkle some chopped vegetables on top when serving. If there are carrots, cook them. Then cut them into strips and fry them with bacon fat and the onion. Bring them to the court. It should be a little sour.

A Spanish ‘Uspot’ from 1611 by Francisco Martínez Motiño chef of Phillips II

25 24. Academy Building of Leiden University 25. The motto ‘praesidium academia lugduno batava libertatis’ in a typeface designed for the university by renowned typographer Gerard Unger

In Leiden everything went back to normal quite quickly. Despite the great losses, almost half of the residents died of hunger and diseases, the city’s economy bloomed. Out of gratitude for the people’s resistance, William of Orange donated a university to the city. Leiden University is still known as the oldest university in the Netherlands, with the motto “Libertatis Praesidium”, bastion of freedom. In the countryside things were different. Everything was destroyed and the water damage was not fully recovered until 1580. Also, the billeted soldiers at farmhouses were disastrous for many peasants. 37

26. Armed Spanish soldiers invade a house

In 1576 Claes Pieterzn Ket from the village Koudekerk (which is next to Leiden) filed a complained against billeted soldiers who ate everything that was available in the house and misbehaved in all sorts of ways. For instance, Claes’ sister was making hutspot in the kitchen when the soldiers started throwing food in her face and made her drop the carrots. Another time they just knocked over the hutspot. The painting Boerenverdriet (The Peasant’s Sorrow) by David Vinckboons fits this story well and shows us that such events were not uncommon. 39

27. The Peasant’s Sorrow by David Vinckboons

27. The Prinsengeus as carried by the Watergeuzen

This is a ‘geus’ (in English this type of flag is known as a ‘jack’), it’s a flag that is flown at the bow of a ship. According to the legend the Dutch Prinsengeus (Prince’s Jack) is named after the Watergeuzen (Sea Beggars) and was first seen during the capture of the Dutch city Brielle in William of Orange his colours; orange, white and blue. 43

29 28. Orange and red Prinsengeus 29. Prinsengeus being raised on a Royal Dutch Navy ship

The orange in the Dutch flags was created by mixing red with yellow pigments turning this into a dye. Due to sunlight the yellow pigment would fade leaving just a red colour. Because the orange needed to be retouched so frequently they decided to leave the dyeing behind and accept the Dutch tricolour as red, white and blue. Since 1931 the Prinsengeus is officially used by the Royal Dutch Navy and is being flown on the bow of their ships. 45

3 30. William III of Orange 31. Red Prinsengeus 32. Union Jack

Some stories say that the Prinsengeus was not used by the Sea Beggars but came in about hundred years later when William III of Orange crossed to England to overthrow his father in law James II to rule over England. Even though the Dutch and the English had fought each other for more than 40 years, they were now forced to cooperate. This is where the connection is made between the Prinsengeus and the Union Jack. The triangles in the Prinsengeus can also be seen as combined crosses just like those in the Union Jack. The crosses on the Prinsengeus are quite original and way more subtle than the bold crosses on the Union Jack. 47

Take seven or eight pieces of the best beef, each piece as wide as your hand. Put them on the fire with 9 liters of water, bring to the boil and skim off. Reduce it by half. Then take a good handful of parsley, two handfuls of spinach, half a hand of savory and thyme (only the leaves), wring them once or twice between your hands 48

The Dutch English collaboration reminds us of a hutspot recipe from 1620 by the English Cook John Murrell called “To make a Hutchpot on the Dutch fashion”

and add them to the meat. Add three or four whole onions, pepper, three or four mace leaves, some salt, three or four carrots. Then boil everything down again under a tight-fitting lid. Spoon it onto pieces of bread and pour your carrots and herbs on top. Sprinkle everything with salt and put it on the table hot. 49

33. Purple carrots

Even some of the ingredients fit the Dutch fashion. Nowadays carrots, talking about the orange ones, are often referred to as “Dutch Carrots”. There’s a myth telling that orange carrots were developed in honour of William of Orange. People first domesticated the vegetable almost 5,000 years ago in Persia, the current Iran. Back then carrots came in huge variety of colours, hueing from purple to yellow. vegetable was introduced by Islamic traders traveling from Northern Africa to Spain in the 14th century. 51

35 34. Orange “Dutch Carrots” 35. Agriculture in the Netherlands

There are documents showing the cultivation of orange carrots in Spain during this period already. During the 16th century the Dutch were one of the main agricultural forces in Europe. They were able to culture orange carrots in large quantities. Due to the mild, wet weather the orange variety grew very well in the Netherlands. Merchants spread the Dutch carrots across the continent, bringing them to places like France, Germany and England where they became the norm. Orange carrots were later used by the Dutch to emphasize their national pride, linking them to William of Orange. 53

36. Kitchen Maid Learned Through Many Years of Experience by Rijntje Biljardt

The modern hutspot took shape in the 19th century. Until 1840 the potato was nowhere to be seen in recipes. In her cookbook ‘De door veeljarige ondervinding geleerde keukenmeid’ (‘kitchen maid learned through many years of experience’) Rijntje Biljardt, a chef from The Hague, describes a hutspot with potatoes for the first time. Rijntje worked for high-ranking people including the King of the Netherlands William I. 55

37. Hortus Botanicus in Leiden

Just like carrots potatoes don’t originate in the Netherlands. The Spanish explorers brought back the potato from South-America where it had been cultivated for thousands of years. The Catholic monks were responsible for spreading the potato through Europe in the 16th century. Soon the plant could be found in various botanical gardens under which the Hortus Botanicus in Leiden. 57

37. Harvesting potatoes

The potato was not an immediate success. According to most people it was a tasteless product that just looked weird, with all its lumps it reminded people of leprosy. In addition to that, the stems and leaves were also poisonous. It was dismissed as food for pigs and the poorest of the poor. It took at least 200 years for the potato to gain the popularity it knows today. 59

38. De Aardappeleters (The Potato Eaters) by Vincent van Gogh

39. Wooden pestle 40. Patent by Alanson Brown

40 62

In a modern hutspot the potatoes, carrots and onions are made into a mash. This was first done by Johan Pieter Gros in 1852, who also served as a chef for King William the I. After Johan’s first attempt it took years before other cooks started mashing the hutspot. At first mashes like hutspot were mashed with a wooden pestle. The wire masher was patented in its current form in 1876 by Alanson Brown in the United States. He invented a masher made out of one single piece of wire, just like the ones we commonly use today. 63

Take 1 kilo of potatoes and 500 grams of carrots, cut them into 3 cm pieces. Put the potatoes and carrots into a pan, together with the skin of 1 orange, 4 peeled cloves of garlic and 2 teaspoons of salt. Cover with enough boiling water to rise 2 cm above the mixture. Simmer gently until everything is soft enough to mash. While the potato-carrot mixture is boiling, heat 100 ml olive oil into a pan. Slice a medium sized onion into half rings, crush a clove of garlic and fry them both in the oil. Once finished drain the potato-carrot mixture catching some of the boiling water. Use a masher to mash everything into a smooth hutspot while adding the olive oil and onions. If necessary add some of the boiling water to smoothen out the mash. Transfer the hutspot to a platter and drizzle with some extra olive oil and some chopped parsley. 64

An aromatic olive oil hutspot by Chris Boender

41. Woman in traditional costume carrying onions and carrots, probably on her way to make a delecious hutspot

It is very special to see how food can be a witness of the past. While making this project I rediscovered my fascination for history and my passion for cooking. I got carried away by numerous stories, fantasizing about times long gone. Both history and food can be beautiful sources of inspiration, but can also function as escapism in hectic times. – Chris 67