Follow a legend 14 • Law of the wild 18 • What's wilderness worth 34
Trail & timberline The Colorado Mountain Club • Spring 2010 • Issue 1006 • www.cmc.org
WILD colorado Trail & Timberline
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"We entered the mountain as strangers, we left it as brothers."
- Dr. Charles Houston
Gala and Induction Ceremony April 10, 2010 American Mountaineering Museum
Tickets on sale now! Reserve your seat at www.mountaineeringmuseum.org
Robert Bates
Robert Craig
Dr. Charles Houston
Yvon Chouinard Sponsored by
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Letter from the CEO Share and share alike
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hope that, for each of you, the year 2010 has started with happiness and good health, and that you’ve had a chance to get outside and enjoy some winter activities! I’d like to tell you about a very exciting new club benefit that has been in the works for over a year and has finally come to fruition. But, first, a little background. Almost two years ago, the American Alpine Club and the Colorado Mountain Club hosted the first-ever gathering of the executives of the nation’s best mountain clubs. After years of working in our regional silos, it was decided that the mountain clubs should be working together. This past November, I attended the group’s second gathering (we have yet to give ourselves a name) at the new and beautiful home of The Mountaineers, in Seattle. At these meetings we build our network, share best practices, and compare our organizations’ business functions and cultural dynamics. By discussing insurance, volunteerism, staffing, outreach, membership trends, lodges, and any number of pertinent topics, we learn from each others’ experiences and understand how much we have in common in our challenges and successes. The group continues to work on several initiatives considered at that inaugural meeting in Golden in September 2008. These initiatives include liability insurance comparisons, shared benefits, and a national amateur training curriculum that could be used for all climbing organizations and schools—from rock gyms to college mountaineering courses to all of our nonprofit organizations. So, you might be asking, what do these gatherings mean for me? First and foremost, we have agreed to share some of the benefits of our respective organizations among the members of the other clubs (and possibly other clubs in the future). It’s quite simple. Each and every CMC member can attend an activity with the following clubs: the Adirondack Mountain Club, the American Alpine Club, Mazamas, and The Mountaineers. And, each time, you’ll receive the member rate of that club. For example, the Mazamas own a great cabin on Mount Hood. Planning a trip to that area? Now, as a CMC member, you can rent the cabin at the Mazamas’s member rate. Take advantage of shared rates on the other clubs’ outings, hikes, ski trips, climbs, as well as merchandise and classes. This means that a CMC member can take a Mountaineers class at their member rate or buy merchandise from the AAC at their member rate. This reciprocal agreement benefits you, our members, and will
hopefully help to attract new members to the Colorado Mountain Club. Likewise, the other organizations and their members will
benefit, strengthening the greater mountain club community. To take advantage of these offerings, visit www.cmc.org/partners (or click on Why Join on our homepage, and see the link for CMC Partners). There, you’ll find contact information for the various clubs. Start browsing their websites and plan your next trip today!
Katie Blackett Chief Executive Officer
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18 Poetic Preservation
36 Keeping Colorado Wild
The right to free speech. The right to vote. Some things are so precious they're worth protecting by law. The right to wilderness is among them.
Preserving wilderness is in the blood of the CMC. And, under our fingernails.
By Steve Smith
By Chris Case
40 The "Lost" Greenhorn Mountains
22 Wild Colorado How many people can say they live in a state whose wilderness areas are impossible to rank? Certainly every Coloradan can. But, we rank the top ten anyway. By Elisabeth Kwak-Hefferan
Greenhorn Mountain. Wet Mountains. Greenhorn Mountains? Could there be a long lost mountain range in the heart of Colorado? By Woody Smith
Photography by Chris Case
34 What's Wilderness Worth? Has it come to this? Putting a dollar amount on wilderness areas shows us just how valuable they are. By Chris Case
Spring 2010 Trail & Timberline • Issue 1006 • www.cmc.org
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Departments 01 Letter from the CEO 04 Editor's Note 06 On the Outside 08 Mission Accomplishments
Learn the latest from the Conservation and Education Departments, as well as the Mountaineering Museum.
12 The Clinic
Keep our fourteeners above 14,000 feet. Tread lightly with these practical tips. By Anya Byers
14 Pathfinder
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Follow in the footsteps of one of Colorado's most legendary climbers—if you dare. By Brendan Leonard
42 CMC Adventure Travel
Want to get away? Join classic CMC trips to Alaska, the Grand Canyon, Mount Elbrus, Nepal, and more.
On the Cover
Colorado's Front Range, including the windswept summits of the Indian Peaks Wilderness and Rocky Mountain National Park, is blanketed in the light of a setting sun. Chris Case
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Editor’s Note “The wilderness…is indeed intensely human, and perhaps after all it is the human association with the wilderness—so intense, so remote from the artificial distractions of all our machines and contrivances— that gives to these wildlands their supreme value and gives to their preservation for still other human beings the ultimate justification and imperative.” – Howard Zahniser
e could learn a lot from Howard Zahniser, and not just about the value of wilderness. His name is not often mentioned alongside the likes of Muir and Leopold, but his legacy may be more profound. Without the Wilderness Act that he authored—uniting the most wild of places into a system of wilderness reserves—the world might still be grappling with “a sequence of overlapping emergencies, threats, and defense campaigns,” the battleground against which he rallied in 1951. “The wilderness that has come to us from the eternity of the past we have the boldness to project into the eternity of the future,” he wrote. But to unite wilderness, he first had to unite opposing forces. His relentless promotion and justification for a wilderness bill was surpassed in significance only by his enduring pursuit of the broadest possible consensus around the bill. This may have been Zahniser’s greatest success. His dream was not to achieve any type of protection, but to forge a method of permanence, something he reasoned could only be achieved with respect and consideration for views unlike his own. He searched for the virtues in the arguments of those who opposed wilderness, attempted to meet their objections with reason, and respected the integrity and sincerity of those on the other side of the wilderness line. He did this not for himself but for wilderness. He genuinely yearned to reach some agreement whereby his interests and the interests of the opposition could be reconciled, for the benefit of wild places, wild things, and wild ideas. It was his cloak of humility.
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Working to preserve in perpetuity is a great inspiration. We are not fighting a rear-guard action, we are facing a frontier. We are not slowing down a force that inevitably will destroy all the wilderness there is. We are generating another force, never to be wholly spent, that, renewed generation after generation, will be always effective in preserving wilderness. We are not fighting progress. We are making it. We are not dealing with a vanishing wilderness. We are working for a wilderness forever.
We want our Colorado to remain wild, like he wanted his wilderness to last forever. If you have no wild spaces in which to roam free, then how will you find yourself? If you can’t find calm in the singular tranquility of an alpine meadow, then what do you call serenity? If your views are muddied brown or your quiet shattered, then how will you ever think clearly? Let us strive to be as thoughtful as Zahniser in whatever we do: meet opposition with wisdom, consider the opposition with admiration, stand true to our convictions, and keep Colorado wild.
Chris Case editor@cmc.org 4 Trail & Timberline
Trail & timberline
The official publication of the Colorado Mountain Club since 1918.
Editor, Director of Photography & Design Chris Case editor@cmc.org
Advertising Sales Robin Commons
advertising@cmc.org
The Colorado Mountain Club 710 10th Street, Suite 200 Golden, Colorado 80401
The CMC is a 501 (c)(3) charitable organization.
www.cmc.org The Colorado Mountain Club is organized to ▶ unite the energy, interest, and knowledge of the students, explorers, and lovers of the mountains of Colorado; ▶ collect and disseminate information regarding the Rocky Mountains on behalf of science, literature, art, and recreation; ▶ stimulate public interest in our mountain areas; ▶ encourage the preservation of forests, flowers, fauna, and natural scenery; and ▶ render readily accessible the alpine attractions of this region. © 2010 Colorado Mountain Club
All Rights Reserved
Trail & Timberline (ISSN 0041-0756) is published quarterly by the Colorado Mountain Club located at 710 10th Street, Suite 200, Golden, Colorado 80401. Periodicals postage paid at Golden, Colorado, and additional offices. Subscriptions are $20 per year; single copies are $5. POSTMASTER: Please send address changes to Trail & Timberline, 710 10th Street, Suite 200, Golden, Colorado 80401. Advertisements in Trail & Timberline do not constitute an endorsement by the Colorado Mountain Club.
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For Members member benefits → Join us on over 3,000 annual trips, hikes, and activities in the state’s premiere mountain-adventure organization. → Expand your knowledge and learn new skills with our schools, seminars, and events. → Support our award-winning Youth Education Program for mountain leadership. → Protect Colorado’s wild lands and backcountry recreation experiences. → Enjoy exclusive discounts to the American Mountaineering Museum and Base Camp gift shop. → Travel the world with your friends through CMC Adventure Travel. → Receive a 20% discount on all CMC Press purchases and start your next adventure today. → It pays to be a member. Enjoy discounts of up to 25% from retailers and corporate partners. See www.cmc.org/benefits for details.
opportunities to get more involved Charitable Donations
Join our select donors who give back to the club every month by using electronic funds transfer (EFT). It is easy and convenient, you can discontinue anytime, and you’ll provide support for critical programs. Sign up at www.cmc.org/support. By naming the Colorado Mountain Club in your will, you will be able to count yourself among the proud members of the 21st Century Circle. Read more at www.cmc.org/legacy. Please consult your financial advisor about gift language. If you have any questions about donations, please contact Sarah Gorecki, Development Director, at 303.996.2752 or sarahgorecki@cmc.org.
Volunteer Efforts
If you want to share your time and expertise, give back to the club by volunteering on a variety of projects, from trail restoration to stuffing envelopes. Visit www.cmc.org/volunteer for a complete listing.
Contact Us Our Membership Services team can answer general questions every weekday at 303.279.3080, or by email at cmcoffice@cmc.org.
SCFD
The Colorado Mountain Club thanks the Scientific and Cultural Facilities District and its citizens for their continuing support. www.scfd.org
The Colorado Mountain Club is a proud member of Community Shares of Colorado.
It PAYS to be a member!
SCFD
SCFD
SCFD
▶ 50% off admission at the American Mountaineering Museum ▶ 25% off titles from The Mountaineers Books ▶ 20% at Base Camp, the CMC's adventure gift shop ▶ 20% at all MAPSCO locations ▶ 10% at Neptune Mountaineering, Boulder ▶ 10% at Bent Gate Mountaineering, Golden ▶ 10% at Wilderness Exchange Unlimited, Denver ▶ 10% at Mountain Chalet, Colorado Springs ▶ 10% at The Trailhead, Buena Vista ▶ 10% at Rock'n and Jam'n, Thornton
Not a member? Visit www.cmc.org/join Trail & Timberline
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On the Outside Mount Toll rises from the glacier-carved expanse of the Indian Peaks Wilderness. Chris Case
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Mission Accomplishments The Wilderness Tradition
The CMC and the Hidden Gems Wilderness Proposal By Anya Byers, Recreation Planning Coordinator
For over 95 years, the CMC has worked to protect Colorado’s most scenic and iconic vistas. Since 1964, wilderness designation has been the CMC’s top conservation goal—it is the only federal land designation that gives highest priority to the preservation of land, water, and ecology (see pg. 36). Although there are now 3.7 million acres of land protected as wilderness in Colorado, the designation of individual tracts has never come quickly. Our latest wilderness push, dubbed the Hidden Gems Campaign, is no different—it would save significant and worthy landscapes, but the process continues only with great effort and time.
The name “Hidden Gems” originated with the area’s composition: several ecologically rich, mid-elevation life zones that don’t typically come to mind when people think of wilderness. In fact, wilderness designation for this area would protect pristine, intact habitat for elk, mountain lion, black bear, bighorn sheep, lynx, and cutthroat trout. In this way, these “hidden gem” parcels can be seen as a complement to those high elevation “crown jewels” of our National Wilderness Preservation System, places like Holy Cross and Maroon Bells-Snowmass Wilderness areas. Whereas our current Colorado wilderness areas are sublime in their moun-
▲ Huntsman Ridge, in Gunnison County. Anya Byers Colorado has close to five million acres of roadless forest land that have not been designated as wilderness. The Hidden Gems Wilderness Proposal would grant the nation’s highest protection to a fraction of these precious and threatened public and wildlife lands. Specifically, in the White River National Forest and adjacent land overseen by the Bureau of Land Management, conservationists have inventoried more than 1.1 million acres of wilderness-quality lands. The Hidden Gems proposal would protect approximately 40 percent of these areas. 8
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tainous aesthetic, they often do not contain the precious ecosystems that are crucial for the greater health of wildlife. Wilderness designation comes about through a lengthy process (see opposite page). Today, this means the involvement of many diverse players and interests. The Hidden Gems proposal has been crafted from the bottom up, with the aid of local residents: negotiations, compromises, changes, and, perhaps most importantly, listening. For over three years, Hidden Gems representatives—including staff from the
Wilderness Workshop, Colorado Environmental Coalition, the Colorado Mountain Club, and The Wilderness Society—have been meeting with public land stakeholders including ranchers, the Colorado Army National Guard, water districts, fire protection districts, municipalities, user groups, adjacent subdivisions, and the Colorado Department of Transportation. Even as we approach our goal of introducing wilderness legislation, we continue to work toward solutions to meet the needs of diverse Colorado communities and the wildlands we so cherish. Wilderness is open to everyone. Recreation—including hiking, backpacking, skiing and snowboarding, climbing, hunting, fishing, rafting and kayaking, horseback riding, mountaineering, photography, wildlife viewing, and bird watching—is but a small portion of the importance of wilderness protection. Still, approximately 100,000 acres of lands have been removed from the proposal in order to accommodate mechanized recreational interests, such as mountain biking and rock climbing, which sometimes employs power drills for placing bolts. As the time draws near to hand this citizens’ wilderness proposal to a congressional sponsor for consideration and passage by Congress, the combined efforts of environmentalists and recreationists are needed more than ever. Letters and phone calls are needed from citizens around Colorado and beyond, to rally support from public officials at the local, regional, and national levels. For those who cherish the protection of valuable public landscapes, there can be no better way to leave a legacy than to help protect the beauty and integrity of these Hidden Gems. △ To send a letter or to get involved as a volunteer in the Hidden Gems Campaign, visit www.whiteriverwild.org/p-get-involved-5.html. To learn more about the CMC’s conservation efforts, visit www.cmc.org/conservation.
Wilderness Designation
It takes an act of Congress to designate wilderness. But what comes before that? The following steps illustrate one way in which a group like the CMC can fulfill the requirements to identify, evaluate, and recommend lands to add to the National Wilderness Preservation System. State or federal land management agencies, organized groups, or individual citizens conduct an inventory of wilderness suitability.
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Percentage of the total land area of Colorado that is wilderness.
▶ Is the area 5,000 acres in size or larger? Or adjacent to existing wilderness ▶ Does the area generally appear to be natural and is human presence relatively unnoticeable? ▶ Does the area offer the opportunity for primitive and unconfined recreational activities like camping, hiking, and skiing? ▶ Does it provide opportunities for solitude?
3,707,254 Acres of land in the 43 wilderness areas in Colorado.
▶ Does the area contain features of ecological, geological, scientific, educational, scenic, or historical significance?
Some Wilderness Facts The public is asked to review and recommend adjustments to the recommendation.
Finally, areas are considered by Congress for wilderness designation. The House of Representatives and Senate must agree on the same recommendation.
Only five states—Connecticut, Delaware, Iowa, Kansas, Maryland, and Rhode Island— do not have wilderness.
Congress enacts wilderness legislation
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Percentage of the total land area in the United States, including Alaska, that is wilderness, representing 109,502,248 acres across 756 units.
President signs or vetoes wilderness bill
Wilderness designated
Wilderness areas are multiple use by law. That means the land within a designated wilderness area is there for much more than its recreational benefits. They must also serve as protection of watersheds; maintain soil and water quality, ecological stability and plant and animal gene pools; provide habitat for wildlife, including rare and endangered species; and provide unsurpassed opportunities for outdoor recreation including hunting, fishing, hiking, and camping. Just about anything that is lawful activity and does not harm the wilderness or require a vehicle is permitted. Although the Wilderness Act prohibits the general use of motorized and mechanized equipment and transportation, the Act clearly allows for their use for search and rescue operations, fire fighting to protect adjacent private land, insect and disease control and other exceptional circumstances where they are the minimum tools necessary for proper administration of the area. Trail & Timberline
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Philanthropy for the Future Helping others experience the ideal By Brenda Porter, Director of Education
A passion for mountain adventure is something many CMC members have in common. But a growing group of devoted members share a goal that reaches far beyond their own trips. They also want children— especially those who are disadvantaged—to have opportunities in the mountains. Jan and Dave Robertson and Betsy and Jerry Caplan have been supporters of CMC’s Youth Education Program since its inception in 1999. In addition to annual charitable contributions, they garner support for youth programming through public speaking engagements and networking. Jack Dennis and Dave Bentzin are not as physically active in the club’s activities as they once were, but they’ve shifted their enthusiasm for the outdoors to philanthropy: both make substantial contributions to the Youth Education Program each year. They are driven by the belief that young people are the future of the club. “I am one of your [Youth Education Program’s] most ardent fans,” Bentzin says. “As a member, I see that activity with the Colorado Mountain Club and its members is a great asset to a person's lifestyle. And I believe in opportunities for young people.” Dennis, a resident of Golden, had enjoyed belaying school kids during their field trips to the American Mountaineering Center for several years. As a long-time rock climber, he delighted in encouraging youth to take an active interest in the sport he loved. Now, though he is no longer able to volunteer his time, his enduring financial support enables low-income kids to participate. Meir Carasso, Bart Calkins, and Mary Stockdill were all long-time CMC members whose passion for the mountains outlived them. Their families have made bequeaths to the CMC’s Youth Education Program in their names. “My dad, Meir Carasso, fell in love with the outdoors after emigrating here from the Middle East in the early 1960s,” Donna Stumpp says. “He shared his passion with me growing up, and then with his grandson—my son Kiefer. We very much enjoyed hiking and climbing together. I hope that my gift to the CMC Youth Education Program will allow his love of the outdoors and his support of at-risk adolescents to contin10
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ue for future generations.” Likewise, Mitch Calkins’ thoughts about his brother, Bart—a trip leader, active member of the Denver Group Technical Section, and volunteer for climbing schools, as well as the Youth Education Program— epitomize the philanthropic mindset. “Bart thought of rock climbing and skiing as endeavors that tested and thereby strengthened an individual's spirit,” Calkins says. “By donating to the CMC, and specifically to YEP, we hope others are able to experience his ideal."
Mary Stockdill’s family endowed, in her name, a YEP scholarship for girls. As a special education teacher, Mary was a champion of all children, and especially wanted girls to have outdoor education opportunities. The first recipient of the scholarship, Ivana Archer, proves that her passion lives on. These are just a few of the instances where a member’s passion for the club has yielded a belief and a determination to allow those less fortunate to experience the exquisite beauty, demanding challenges, and thrills among the peaks. △
And while the list of supporters goes on, additional financial support is needed to meet the demand for low-income youth. Won’t you join the CMC members that contribute $275 each year for a “campership” to send a youth to a rock climbing or mountain adventure summer camp? See a complete list of supporters to the Youth Education Program at www.cmc.org/YEPsupporter.
Help us GREEN to stay Your donation will help us to protect Colorado’s wild places, connect young people to the outdoors, and preserve access to your favorite mountains.
Support the CMC beyond your regular membership dues.
www.cmc.org/support Trail & Timberline
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The Clinic Tread Lightly Saving Our Fourteeners One Step at a Time
Anya Byers; Opposite page (Top to bottom): Brian Wallace; Anya Byers (2)
By Anya Byers, Recreation Planning Coordinator, and Brian Wallace, Education and Outreach Coordinator for the Colorado Fourteeners Initiative
F
or anyone who has felt dismay at the trailhead parking lot of one of Colorado’s 14,000foot peaks—where cars have overrun the lot and spilled onto the access road—the words sustainable and fourteeners may seem contradictory. The Colorado Fourteeners Initiative, the nonprofit organization whose mission is to protect and preserve natural integrity and recreation opportunities on Colorado’s fourteeners, estimates that between 500,000 to 750,000 people each year hike Colorado’s 54 official peaks over 14,000 feet. Those numbers are particularly skewed, as 80 to 90 percent of visitors stick to the easily accessible, non-technical peaks located in the Front Range, Mosquito Range, and Sawatch Range, of which there are about 20. Worse still, all of this climbing gets squeezed into the short alpine summer months of July, August, and early September. It’s no wonder the parking lots fill early. A hiker on a popular fourteener in summer is guaranteed to be sharing the trail with at least 200 to 400 other eager, peak-bound strangers. When asked, most of these hikers would be able to rattle off the list of high peaks they’ve climbed. Yet, many object to the ever-increasing crowds they’ve encountered, and few could describe the deliberate choices they’ve made to ensure their hike was sustainable. What is sustainability anyway? Known for having an elusive, highlydebated definition, sustainability was well12
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described at a UN Conference in 1987 as “meeting present needs without compromising the ability of future generations to meet their needs.” For hikers, it raises the simple question: What do we need to do to make sure our kids, grandkids, and great-great grandkids can someday climb and enjoy Colorado’s spectacular fourteeners, too? For many, the answer to that question means doing our
small part to limit our impact—easy-toimplement techniques like Leave No Trace (LNT) make that painless. If you’re willing to take on a greater challenge, you can step it up by carefully choosing when to climb and adopting “green” techniques. Or, you can go all out and spend your summer weekends climbing fourteeners—something you’d be doing anyways—and teaching others the ways of the sustainable hiker.
The Basics
It should come as no surprise that the plants and animals above Colorado's treeline live on the edge of survival. Alpine life is harsh. Plants must find a way to flower in the few frost-free days of summer, and animals like pikas and marmots spend their summers replenishing fat reserves that are depleted over the winter. This inherent fragility leaves alpine ecosystems vulnerable to every footstep—they can be damaged more easily and in a shorter time than ecosystems just a few hundred feet lower in elevation. Limiting your impact in the alpine requires adhering even more strictly to LNT principles than when you hike in lower, more resilient ecosystems. Brush up on these essentials—for the preservation of the plants and animals around you. And the fourteeners you love. Plan ahead and prepare Start hiking early enough in the morning that you don’t have to run for your life off-trail toward treeline from an approaching lightning storm, and bring maps and gear so you don’t get lost or injured—dozens of additional people would be required to help search for and rescue you. Travel and camp on durable surfaces Don't cut those switchbacks on either the way up or down, because they’ll become deep, ugly ruts over time. If you need to pass someone or be passed, find a boot-sized rock to step on for a second. If you step blindly off the trail, you could unknowingly crush and kill alpine vegetation that took decades to mature. Dispose of waste properly Pack out all of your own trash, as well as anything left by others (the exception is anything more than 50 years old, which is considered a historic artifact). Trash even includes fruit peels and other biodegradable items, as these can take years to break down. In the alpine, human waste doesn’t decompose if it’s buried in a “cat hole,” like it does below treeline. There simply aren’t enough soil microbes at high elevation. Pack your waste out using a “Wag Bag,” a personal, packable latrine, available at most large outdoor retailers. Alternatively, hold it until you get back down to the trees. Leave what you find Leaving flowers and historic artifacts for others to enjoy may seem like common sense, but not disturbing tiny things like lichens on rocks, by building cairns and wind breaks, is important, too. Respect wildlife When you encounter wildlife, follow this “rule of thumb” to avoid disturbing them, especially during sensitive seasons when animals may be mating, nesting, or raising
young. Make a “thumbs-up” sign in the direction of the animal, with your hand extended to arms length. Close one eye and make sure that your thumb blocks your view of the animal. If the animal appears larger than your thumb, back away quietly. Be considerate of other visitors Yield to others, especially those still hiking up when you are coming down, and avoid loud voices—let nature’s sounds prevail.
Step it Up
Want to do more to help your favorite fourteeners stay healthy? Take your planning to the next level, by scheduling your trips on week days instead of busy weekends when possible, or carpooling to the trailhead with friends. You could also work on your ski or snowshoe skills— you can have even the most popular fourteeners to yourself many days during the fall, winter, and spring. You might also consider tracking the peaks you’ve successfully summited electronically, instead of signing the peak register. Perhaps more important in the past when some peaks had only been climbed by a small handful of adventurers, registers today fill up so quickly that they’re often reduced to illegible scraps of paper. They’re frowned upon by some land managers for this reason. They aren’t even present in many wilderness areas, where they are considered permanent human impacts that are out of character with the management guidelines of the Wilderness Act. Electronic registers are a greener way to track the peaks you’ve summited—with the bonus that they can’t get wet! A number of examples are out there, including www.14ers.com and www.coloradomountainregisters.com.
Climb with a Purpose
You love climbing Colorado’s mountains. You particularly like being on what feels like the top of Colorado—its fourteeners. Now, climb as an ambassador: volunteer for the Colorado Fourteeners Initiative’s Peak Steward Program (www.14ers.org). As a steward, you’ll be trained to talk to other hikers at the trailhead or on the trail about preventing damage to the trail system and alpine ecosystem. You’ll collect data that is critical for the improvement of management practices. After a weekend training course, you’ll be able to set your own schedule, hiking a few or many fourteeners each summer. You won’t even have to hike to the summit of every peak—you could choose to chat with visitors before they even leave the parking lot. The rewards of being an ambassador are evident: your fellow hikers will learn to think sustainable when they’re on fourteeners, and your great grandkids will have the peaks to enjoy just like you do today. △ Trail & Timberline
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Pathfinder
C ◉
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b Like Kor lim
rendan By B
Selected
Front R ange Routes of L ay ton Kor
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any climbers skip the third and last pitch of Eldorado Canyon’s Wind Ridge. Who can blame them? At the end of the second pitch of this climb on the Wind Tower in Eldorado Canyon State Park, just south of Boulder’s Flatirons, it’s easy enough to walk off to the north. Plus, the last pitch doesn’t really end at the true summit, and there’s some loose rock that you could very easily knock down on your partner. Plus, the start of the third pitch involves surmounting what guidebook author Richard Rossiter calls “one of the weirdest roofs in Eldorado.” Above your head is a right-pointing flake with more than a foot of space between it and the wall. Lots of lead climbers take a look at it, then another look, and probably decide, “You know, I think getting a beer might be more fun than climbing the third pitch today.” When I stood below that roof one warm January morning, I took what I thought was a logical course of action: I hoisted myself 14
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up onto the flake and sat there to contemplate my next move. This was not one of the better ideas I’ve had in my career as a climber. My legs were dangling in the air like I was sitting on a diving board. If I slipped off making my next move, I’d land on the blocks of reddish-brown Eldorado sandstone about 8 feet below, and likely not on my feet. That, of course, would change the character of the day from going climbing to going to the hospital, which is one of those things I assured my worried mother would never happen when I started climbing. I wiggled, mumbled, and fidgeted around, knowing I had painted myself into a
Leonard
◀ Kor explores the rotten limestone of Glenwood Canyon. Steve Komito
▶ Climbers tackle Wind Ridge. The author took the photo while climbing "The Bulge", Layton Kor's first major first ascent in Eldorado Canyon. "'The Bulge' is a runout, arguably dangerous route, despite its mild grade of 5.7," says Leonard. "The character of the rock doesn't allow for much protection to be placed, and the route wanders left and right, making long, swinging falls a possibility. I didn't have what you'd call a 'fun experience' on the route." Brendan Leonard
corner. I nervously wedged a medium-sized wired nut in a crack and clipped my rope to it, hoping it would hold—if I fell, it would be the only thing keeping me from landing directly onto the belay ledge below. No doubt I was now exhibiting all the grace of a drunk trying to get onto a barstool as I pulled myself upward. That’s when my belayer, friend, and climbing partner, Lee, calmly said, “Your nut just fell out.” Now I was, for all intents and purposes, free-soloing. I frantically clambered my way to the next good stance a few feet away and placed a cam. This type of experience, I’ve noticed, is pretty typical when I decide to climb any of the moderate routes first climbed in the 1950s and 1960s by a man named Layton Kor. In the 21st century, routes are assigned grades in ascending order of difficulty on an open-ended scale starting at 5.0 and currently topping out at 5.15b. I consider myself a slouch capable of grazing 5.10 on occasion. How difficult is “one of the weirdest roofs in Eldorado?” It’s rated 5.6. Go to any indoor climbing gym in America, and you’ll have trouble locating more than one route rated that low. Kor, a bricklayer who stood between 6 feet 4 inches and 6 feet 8 inches (depending on who’s telling stories about him), went on a still unrivaled spree putting up dozens of routes all over the western United States. It all started in Colorado’s Front Range near his then-home of Boulder. His routes rarely make sense to those of us who learned to climb by searching for holds on the rock’s face. Kor’s routes are often three-dimensional, calling for techniques like chimneying and off-width climbing; jams where hands and feet are wedged into cracks at weird angles; and lots of thinking to find one’s way up and over blocky roofs. Sometimes, his routes also ask you to calm yourself with the words, “Okay, this is only 5.7.” Kor wrote four articles for Trail & Timberline, detailing some of his adventures in Colorado, Utah, and Yosemite. In March 1960 (“Hallett’s Second Buttress,” #495, March 1960), he wrote a short article describing one of his early climbs: the first winter ascent of the second buttress of Hallett Peak in Rocky Mountain National Park. “I hammered in a piton under the overhang, clipped several karabiners [sic] in, and leaned back almost horizontally under the roof,” Kor wrote. “I stretched—just a few inches more. The piton relieved itself from the rock and I found myself 15 feet lower, upside down and completely speechless.”
He survived, of course, and continued on. “Two small overhangs, the final chimney, and we stood on the snow-covered rocks of the summit. The ascent, although very cold, had only taken us five and a half hours. Food and water, a little rest and the fact that we had done the first ascent of the second buttress, made it a perfect day.” In March 1967, after having put up new climbs across the United States and Europe, Kor returned his sights to the Diamond of Longs Peak. Climbing the 900 vertical feet of this wall, all of which sits above 13,000 feet, was not permitted until 1960, when Californians Dave Rearick and Bob Kamps claimed the coveted first ascent. But Kor, along with partner Wayne Goss, would try for the first winter ascent. In two pushes over several days, Kor and Goss battled snow, cold, wind, and rotten rock to add their names to the history books with a bold climb on the iconic face. But it wasn’t easy. “One hundred feet up, the rock became rotten and the smooth diagonal overhangs stopped all progress,” Kor wrote (“On the Granite Wall,” Trail & Timberline #582, June 1967). “I was trying desperately to place a piton on my left, when the tiny angle holding my weight popped out and a terrifying 20-foot plunge into the dusk followed. When it ended I was swinging upside down squinting toward Goss, whose bright smile showed it had been an easy catch.” Soon after, Kor’s resolve would be tested once again. “It had turned completely dark as I hung from my tortured fingers, placing several pitons to secure the belay. ‘Lightning’ Goss, who was in remarkable shape, removed all the pitons in just a few minutes, and soon headlamps cast out two beams halfway up the Diamond. ‘Just above is the bivouac,’ I told Wayne, not really sure about anything except how lousy I felt.” The bivouac provided little relief. “After joining me in idle comfort, [Goss] fired up the stove to provide us with the only food we could consume, hot raspberry Jell-O.” Sustenance consumed the next morning (another bowl of hot Jell-O for breakfast), and the two set out for the top. But it would be nightfall before they knew if another bivvy was in store. “After many minutes of struggling with rope slings and my headlamp cord I somehow managed to force several pitons deep into the icy crack, setting up the last belay of the climb,” Kor wrote. “Wayne soon shared my position at the hanging ‘spaghetti garTrail & Timberline
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dens.’ After a few minutes rest we changed places and I led into the night with a blinking headlamp until the wild blast of the wind told me it was all over.” Between 1957 and 1968, Kor pioneered new vertical terrain in Eldorado Canyon, Rocky Mountain National Park, the Utah desert, Yosemite, and the then-unexplored and still-feared Black Canyon of the Gunnison, employing aid climbing when sections could not be safely and efficiently free climbed. Former CMC member Bob Culp reminisced in his November 1970 Trail & Timberline article, “Boulder Rock Climbers: Faces of the Sixties” (#623, November 1970), remembering a novice Kor as enthusiastic, but “tall and skinny and seemingly graceless on the rocks.” Culp and Kor became friends and prolific climbing partners, putting up first ascents in Eldorado, the Black Canyon, and Rocky Mountain National Park, including the imposing Northwest Face of Chiefs Head Peak. In the article, Culp tells of a particularly rattling first ascent in Glenwood Canyon. “Kor and I visited Glenwood Canyon that spring and after climbing three overhanging nightmares and nearly getting smashed by falling rocks and falling into the river, we headed home,” he wrote. “We had put up the Cima Fantissimo, an unlikely overhanging 600-foot climb on bad rock. Dangling from pitons, hidden by roofs, Kor would cackle ‘Hee Hee, Roberto! You’ll love this one—it’s horrible!’” My first trip up Wind Ridge and its weird roof didn’t turn out to be so horrible; after the roof, it’s fairly easy climbing to the top. I climbed past a small tree just below the summit, using it for a handhold, and wondered if the tree had been there in 1959 when Kor put up the route. At the top, I built a belay and enjoyed the view, deciding that after battling the roof, I’d had enough for the day. I was no Kor. Wind Ridge was one of the easier climbs Kor authored. There are a handful of others that offer similar levels of difficulty for those who want to follow in the footsteps of one of Colorado’s most legendary climbers. And you don’t have to climb 5.11 A4—you don’t even have to know what A4 means. Here are four moderate Front Range climbs, pioneered by Layton Kor. △ Brendan Leonard is a freelance writer and the charity climb coordinator for nonprofit Big City Mountaineers. 16
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OUT YOU GO Kor’s Flake Sundance Buttress, Lumpy Ridge, Rocky Mountain National Park First Ascent Layton Kor and partner, late 1950s Start Twin Owls trailhead, Rocky Mountain National Park Approach 3.3 miles Difficulty 5.7+ The Climb A challenging five-pitch climb on Lumpy Ridge granite with a little bit of everything: chimneying, off-width, face climbing, route finding, and exposure up high. Tips Don’t take a large pack on this route. You’ll descend very near to the start of the climb, and climbing the off-width section while wearing a pack is difficult. Take big cams to protect the offwidth on the third pitch. Wind Ridge Wind Tower, Eldorado Canyon First Ascent Layton Kor and Jane Bendixon, 1959 Start East Parking Lot, Eldorado Canyon State Park Approach 0.2 miles Difficulty 5.6 The Climb Two (or three) pitches of crack and face climbing on Eldorado sandstone, along the natural line on the skyline ridge on the west side of the Wind Tower. Tips Get to Eldorado Canyon early to climb this one. The short approach and slew of moderategrade climbs make the Wind Tower one of the more popular areas in the canyon. With half a dozen other parties climbing routes very close to yours, it can sometimes be hard to communicate with your partner. The Owl The Dome, Boulder Canyon First Ascent Layton Kor and Ben Chidlaw, 1959 Start Parking Lot 1.2 miles past the intersection of Canyon Blvd. and Third Street in Boulder. Approach 0.2 miles Difficulty 5.7 The Climb Two pitches of stout 5.7 climbing. The first pitch includes an exposed move swinging out onto a pair of knobs, and a left-angling hand crack. The second pitch tackles an awkward A-frame roof that many use a “head jam” to surmount. If you and your partner swing leads, neither of you will be getting off easy on this one. Tips Bring long slings for the meandering first pitch. After you’re done (or for a warm-up), take a lap on the 5.6 East Slab, an excellent 100-foot climb. Southeast ArÊte Second Flatiron First Ascent Layton Kor, free solo, 1959 Start Chautauqua Park Trailhead, Boulder Approach 1 mile Difficulty 5.7 The Climb A fun four-pitch romp with a section of 5.7 climbing. You’ll be in relative solitude on a weekend day while climbers swarm the routes on the First Flatiron and Third Flatiron, right next door. Tip After finishing this line, don’t deny yourself a true summit of the Second Flatiron. Continue up Southside, a 5.6 pitch to the top. If you’re uncomfortable downclimbing class 4/low class 5 rock, bring webbing and a rappel ring to rap off the summit block.
BANFF MOUNTAIN FILM FESTIVAL
rAdIcAL rEELS TOUr presented by
sponsored by
Hang on to your seats for some of the wildest high-adrenaline mountain sport films!
www.radicalreels.com
At the American Mountaineering Center, Friday, April 16, 2010, 7 p.m.
Tickets, $10, available at www.cmc.org/rad and all REI Denver/Boulder metro locations. Proceeds benefit the Colorado Mountain Club. We expect this show to sell out. If still available, REI locations will stop selling tickets at 6:00 p.m., the evening of the show. If the show is not sold out, tickets will be available at the door. Doors open at 6:15 p.m. To view the play list, visit www.cmc.org/rad.
The first of our Wilderness Area Pack Guides
TWICEÊTHEÊSIZEÊMEANS TWICEÊASÊMANYÊDEALS
THE ALL-N
EW
AVAILABLE IN MAY Trail & Timberline
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Poetic Preservation The Necessity of Wilderness
Chris Case
By Steve Smith, The Wilderness Society
“…An
area where the earth and its
community of life are untrammeled by man… retaining its primeval character and influence...”
Such evocative phrasing might come from an essayist contemplating the wonder and glory of nature unfettered, or perhaps a promotional discourse luring visitors to explore exotic and faraway places. 18
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Actually, that eloquent passage is in federal law. The Wilderness Act of 1964 established the world’s first, deliberate system of permanently preserved wildlands, here in the United States, establishing specific requirements and limits for identifying, maintaining, and protectively managing those increasingly rare spots on Earth.
Unique among federal statutes, this one managed to also engage some poetry—bubbling from the enthusiasm of wilderness advocates who worked for 30 years toward its passage—and reflected the breathtaking and contemplative richness of deep backcountry. The law went on: “In order to assure that an increasing population, accompanied by expanding settlement and growing mechani-
by steve smith
zation, does not occupy and modify all areas within the United States and its possessions, leaving no lands designated for preservation and protection in their natural condition, it is hereby declared to be the policy of the Congress to secure for the American people of present and future generations the benefits of an enduring resource of wilderness.” Even as hard-boiled a politician as Lyn-
don B. Johnson, President of the United States when he signed The Wilderness Act into law, said, “If future generations are to remember us with gratitude rather than contempt, we must leave them more than the miracles of technology. We must leave them a glimpse of the world as it was in the beginning, not just after we got through with it." Even with its unique eloquence and in-
spired wordsmithing, this law really is just a codification of the deeper sense of place that humans have found in wildlands for millennia. No doubt, ancient people sometimes viewed wilderness as a place of danger, with wild beasts and sudden turns of weather threatening their survival with little warning. Other explorers and settlers of this continent—both bygone and modern— perhaps saw wilderness as something to be conquered, altered, and turned to sustenance or profit. Still others have found the quiet power, dynamic beauty, and unending surprises of wilderness to provide inspiration for artistic expression and self-discovery. In each perspective, however, it is the wilderness that calls the tune. Whatever response it inspires from humans, it does so on its own often mysterious terms. In one of the finer modern descriptions of the importance of wilderness, Wallace Stegner wrote of the essential value of wilderness in contrast to a hard-edged, developed world. “Coda: Wilderness Letter,” a timeless chapter in his collection of essays, The Sound of Mountain Water, was written in memory of the ancient lessons of survival and ingenuity that we have learned from wilderness. He offered: What I want to speak for is not so much the wilderness uses, valuable as those are, but the wilderness idea, which is a resource in itself. Being an intangible and spiritual resource, it will seem mystical to the practical-minded— but then anything that cannot be moved by a bulldozer is likely to seem mystical to them. I want to speak for the wilderness idea as something that has helped form our character and that has certainly shaped our history as a people… Something will have gone out of us as a people if we ever let the remaining wilderness be destroyed; if we permit the last virgin forests to be turned into comic books and plastic cigarette cases; if we drive the few remaining members of the wild species into zoos or to extinction, if we pollute the last clear air and dirty the last clean streams and push our paved roads through the last of the silence, so that never again will Americans be free in their own country from the noise, the exhausts, the stinks of human and automotive waste… We need wilderness preserved—as much of it as is still left, and as many kinds—because it was the challenge against which our character as a people was formed. The reminder and the reassurance that it is still there is good for our spiritual health even if we never once in Trail & Timberline
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ten years set foot in it. It is good for us when we are young, because of the incomparable sanity it can bring briefly, as vacation and rest, into our insane lives. It is important to us when we are old simply because it is there—important, that is, simply as an idea. The eminent biologist and nature essayist E.O. Wilson more concisely captured the importance of keeping intact samples of the natural world: Science and technology are what we can do; morality is what we agree we should or should not do. The ethic from which moral decisions spring is a norm or standard of behavior in support of a value, and value in turn depends on purpose… A conservation ethic is that which aims to pass on to future generations the best part of the nonhuman world. To know this world is to gain a proprietary attachment to it. To know it well is to love and take responsibility for it. For all the verbal expression wilderness prompts, it may be its ability to launch both body and spirit to new extremes and discoveries that comes closest to defining its real essence. Always an exuberant writer, quintessential wilderness explorer and advocate John Muir was lifted beyond the normal bounds of physics and propriety when buffeted and taught by the wild. In one instance, while sitting in a meadow, Muir anticipated what was likely to be a spectacular sunset. He impulsively struck out for higher ground in an attempt to see more of the glorious changing light and to enjoy the sight longer. On he climbed to a windswept tundra ridge, from which he marveled at each changing facet and hue of the dance between light and air. Finally, the sunset subsided, Muir savoring every last jot of illumination. With that, he realized that he was now in the dark with no clear passage back to camp. To survive the frosty night, this son of Scotland danced the Highland fling ‘til morning, still joyous in his predicament. On another occasion, Muir sensed a great mountain storm coming on, something that he wanted to observe and experience as fully as possible. He wrote in his essay Windstorm in the Forest, “Toward midday, after a
long tingling scramble through copses of hazel and ceanothus, I gained the summit of the highest ridge in the neighborhood; and then it occurred to me that it would be a fine thing to climb one of the trees to obtain a wider outlook and get my ear close to the Aeolian music of its topmost needles.” Carefully picking his vantage tree, 100 feet high, he climbed. Being accustomed to climb trees in making botanical studies, I experienced no difficulty in reaching the top of this one, and never before did I enjoy so noble an exhilaration of motion. The slender tops fairly flapped and swished in the passionate torrent, bending and swirling backward and forward, round and round, tracing indescribable combinations of vertical and horizontal curves, while I clung with muscles firm braced, like a bobolink on a reed… The sounds of the storm corresponded gloriously with this wild exuberance of light
grand-of-scale. Increasingly, wilderness explorers and wilderness defenders are recognizing the need to safeguard the smaller, quieter, but ecologically essential parcels as they do that celebrated array: wilderness areas of lower elevation, the home of wildlife in transitional seasons; wilderness dominated by water or by desert; wilderness that is perhaps the last refuge for the more rare of the world’s flora and fauna; wilderness that still surprises— these are the new inspirations to action. Even as our supply of wilderness diminishes in seemingly relentless waves of development, consumption, and commerce, we become that much more aware of the inimitable details and values of the remaining wildlands and waterways. As we collectively seek to flatten the vertical, to smooth the rough, and to make predictable our built world, we increasingly value the unknown, the yet-tobe-discovered, and the yet-tobe understood. We crave the natural quiet, find calmness in the natural darkness, marvel at the subtle natural sounds, and grin at the innumerable colors of untrammeled—unhindered, unshackled—worlds found in wilderness. Rising from the rich natural bounty of this continent, empowered and emboldened by the visionaries who insisted that wilderness protection be the law, enlightened by the artists and adventurers who best describe these places, and moved by the rich joy, both tangible and intangible, that we find in wildness ourselves, we now must step up to continue defending, singing of, and passing on our enduring heritage of wilderness. As we carry on that teaching and that preaching, we will do well to follow the admonition of John Muir: “Climb the mountains [or, I might insert, enter the canyons, cross the deserts, ride the rivers…] and get their good tidings. Nature's peace will flow into you as sunshine flows into trees. The winds will blow their own freshness into you, and the storms their energy, while cares will drop off like autumn leaves.” △
We crave the natural quiet, find calmness in the natural darkness, marvel at the subtle natural sounds, and grin at the innumerable colors of untrammeled—unhindered, unshackled—worlds found in wilderness.
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and motion. The profound bass of the naked branches and boles booming like waterfalls; the quick tense vibrations of the pine-needles, now rising to a shrill, whistling hiss, now falling to a silky murmur; the rustling of laurel groves in the dells, and the keen metallic click of leaf on leaf—all this was heard in easy analysis when the attention was calmly bent. To understand these expressions of others, to compose our own, and to stretch our imagination beyond the structures and strictures of primarily urban living, it is essential that we retain, protect, and cherish a rich tapestry of wilderness. We must know that such places exist and, whenever possible, visit them in order to keep our perspective, to help define and hold onto sanity. Fortunately, wilderness preservation in America embraces the rich diversity of the continent and the innumerable niches and expanses that compose it. Much of that protected wilderness collection has historically focused on the bold, the colorful, and the
In 2009, the U.S. Forest Service selected Smith as the recipient of one of their most prestigious honors, the Bob Marshall Award for Individual Champion of Wilderness Stewardship.
Timeless
Colorado's Mountains are
By designating the CMC or the CMC Foundation in your will, your investment in them lives on.
Join the 21st Century Circle today. Contact our Development Director at 303-996-2752 to learn more about planned giving. Trail & Timberline
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WILD colorado by Elisabeth kwak-hefferan photography by chris case (unless otherwise noted ) Deluge Lake sits under a ring of peaks, including Snow Peak (right), in the Eagles Nest Wilderness. 22
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I
’m a checklist kind of hiker. Sunblock? Check. Headlamp, just in case? Check. Annotated route description copied from a guidebook? Check. Not having a plan makes me nervous. Yet somehow, deep in the Eagles Nest Wilderness with no way to pinpoint my location on a map, I couldn’t be more relaxed—or happier. We didn’t set out to scramble so high and so far off-trail. We thought we were taking a short dayhike around Piney Lake, a lovely pool just north of Vail. Then we saw the sheer peaks rising beyond the lake, and the trail tracing the shoreline. One of the four of us said, “Hey, why don’t we see where that goes?” So we did. Nobody had a map. Nobody even knew the name of the trail. But we were loaded with JetBoiled coffee and the sky was blue— what else did we need? We took off at a trot, dodging tree roots and rising steadily above the flower-filled meadow, just wondering what was around the next corner. The funny thing about hiking is that it sometimes turns into a sort of competition with yourself. You check the map to see how long it is until that next landmark, or to calculate how quickly you’re moving. You tread through a meadow or climb up a slope with your thoughts focused on anticipating what lies ahead.
But when you strike out into unknown territory, you have no idea how many miles there are to go or what your destination looks like. When you’ve chosen the unknown, there is no destination except right where you are. We climbed higher. The patchy June snow piles became more and more frequent. We’d lose the trail under two feet of lingering snow, only to find it again farther up. Until we looked at each other and realized the trail was gone for good. Turn back? “Nah,” one of us said. “Let’s just see what’s up here.” In this wilderness, it didn’t even feel like hiking anymore. It felt like exploring. We peeled off to the left, picking our way through the woods and climbing over boulders. The valley was steep-sided and the surrounding peaks impossible to lose—we knew we’d be able to find our way back. The terrain got lovelier and more rugged with every vertical foot. But when we began to arc around to the other side of the valley, we knew we were only scratching the surface of this place. Ahead, a glimpse of the Eagles Nest’s wild core: soaring, brutal peaks crowned with white far in the distance, like the Himalayas making a cameo in the Colorado Rockies. I stared, astonished. I didn’t know what summits they were, or what valley we were above, or where exactly our position would be on a map. I just wanted to keep going.
Ten Reasons Wilderness is meant to do just that—awaken that sense of wonder and exploration so easily blunted by the 9-to-5 routines we live every day…serve as a refuge for us to wander and dream. So, in a spirit of celebration for those wild places, we offer the ten best places to go to explore the wilderness of Colorado. How could one ever choose the best wilderness areas in a state so crammed with them? We asked ourselves just what it is that we look for in wilderness, then came up with five key points to help us evaluate Colorado’s 3.7 million acres. These helped narrow the field to an elite list of contenders. In the end, though, it simply came down to the ten reserves that we thought had a certain something—a je ne sais quoi that set them apart and made them the absolute best. Don’t agree with our picks? Of course you don’t. That’s the beauty of it. But how many Americans can say they live in a state with so many superlative wilderness areas that agreeing on the top ten is next to impossible? Elisabeth Kwak-Hefferan is a freelance writer based in Boulder. Since researching this story, she is counting the days until she can continue her search for the perfect wilderness moment in the Weminuche this summer.
The Criteria Each ranked on a 1 to 5 scale, 5 being highest quality.
Solitude Does it offer a chance to escape the crowds? Size How many acres are there? Access Can it be reached easily by road? Are trails widely distributed throughout the wilderness? Escape Regardless of location, does the area feel remote? Does it provide opportunities to explore areas “untrammeled by man”? Recreation Are there opportunities to enjoy multiple activities like hiking, climbing, paddling, and fishing?
Colorado’s Top Ten Wilderness Areas* *in no particular order and based on our humble and biased opinion.
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Weminuche Wilderness Solitude - 4 Size - 5 Access - 5 Escape - 4 Recreation - 4 Highlights - Largest wilderness in the state; varied ecosystems Heidi Skiba (2)
Mention the Weminuche to any backpacker and just watch his eyes get dreamy: This expansive, shockingly gorgeous preserve in the San Juan Mountains has enough thrilling peaks, raging rivers, and thriving wildlife to satisfy a lifetime’s worth of wanderlust. What makes Colorado’s largest wilderness (488,210 acres) so special? For one, it’s the scenery: You’d have to head to the Grand Tetons to find peaks to match these vertiginous turrets. And it’s the height: an average elevation of 10,000 feet and sections of trail that let hikers wander above treeline for days. It’s also the access: 475 trail miles lace the valleys and ridges, including 80 miles of the Continental Divide Trail (CDT). Don’t forget the variety: “The western edge is extremely rugged, with lots of cliff faces, peaks that are difficult to climb, and high passes,” says John Bregar, chair of the CMC’s San Juan chapter. “The eastern part is much gentler, more rolling, and very volcanic.” All that, and you can ride the Durango-Silverton Narrow Gauge Railroad to the trailhead. The Weminuche’s appeal is no secret (it’s the most-visited wilderness in the state), but with almost half a million acres at play, hikers and backpackers can find their own private paradise if they steer clear of especially popular areas like Chicago Basin and the CDT.
See it Experienced climbers can follow the footsteps of one of Bregar’s recent expeditions: a climb of spectacular Jagged Mountain. Take the narrow gauge to Needleton and hike/ bushwhack your way up the Animas River to its junction with Noname Creek. Continue up Noname Creek to a meadow at 11,000 feet—your basecamp for exploring fifth-class Jagged, Leviathan Peak, and Peak Six, among others. Or simply lounge at basecamp, admiring the ring of world-class peaks around your tent. Collegiate Peaks Wilderness Solitude - 2 Size - 4 Access - 5 Escape - 3 Recreation - 3 Highlights - Cloud-scraping elevation; quiet lakes and valleys Want to show visitors what Colorado mountains are all about? Look no farther than the Collegiate Peaks. Looming above the Arkansas River valley like titans, mounts Harvard, Yale, Princeton and the rest form what’s said to be the highest-average-elevation wilderness in the state. With eight fourteeners—including Colorado’s third- and fifth-tallest peaks (Mount Harvard at 14,420’ and La Plata Peak at 14,336’)—and six more summits that top 13,800’, the Collegiates are big-mountain scenery at its best. Forty miles of the Continental Divide Trail wind through this exposed paradise, opening up opportunities for extended trips. Though a spider web of access roads makes penetrating the 167,414 acres a snap, the craggy cirques and quiet lakes tucked at the foot of the mountains can feel a million miles from civilization. All those fourteeners draw the crowds during summer peakbagging season, but backpackers who venture away from the approach trails can still find solitude, even in July and August.
See it Backpack the 3-mile Lake Ann Trail through marshy ponds with killer views of the spiky Three Apostles. Set up camp on a grassy hill above the lake, then hike the short but strenuous spur trail to the pass for sweeping views stretching to the Taylor Reservoir. Itching for elevation? Wake up early and bag 14,005’ Mount Huron on the way out. Or if you like to start high, depart from Cottonwood Pass and drop into a lush valley on one of several trails.
The titans of the Collegiate Peaks Wilderness.
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Great Sand Dunes National Park & Preserve Solitude - 4 Size - 1 Access - 3 Escape - 5 Recreation - 5 Highlights - Otherworldly beauty; one-of-a-kind landscape The last thing one might expect to spot in the heart of the San Luis Valley is a towering sand dune, but that’s exactly what awaits the intrepid hiker in this southern Colorado wilderness. Make that lots of sand dunes—30 square miles of them—nestled against the serrated edges of the Sangre de Cristo Range. This mini Sahara hosts the tallest dunes in North America, plus a splashworthy beach in May and June and neck-craning views of the Crestones. These anomalous sand piles are thought to have formed when prevailing winds carried sediments left behind by an ancient sea to this site, depositing so much that it began to pile up—way up. Star Dune, the highest in the wilderness, is 750 feet tall. No trails exist in these sands, so visitors are free to wander at will through the dunes. And if hikers balk at the heart-pounding challenge that is climbing a shifting dune, consider this: You can carve turns on skis or snowboard (or just a plain old sled) back down for a sweet return on the effort. The Star Wars-esque landscape isn’t the only unique thing about Great Sand Dunes. Seven endemic (meaning they exist nowhere else on Earth) species of insect make their homes in the park, including the iridescent Great Sand Dunes tiger beetle and the inch-long robber fly.
See it The backcountry sites along the dunes’ edge and into the alpine forest are wonderful, as is Pinyon Flats Campground. But to really experience the dunes, just lose yourself in their folds. Backpackers can camp anywhere outside of the day use area (about 1.5 miles in) with a free permit. Load your pack with water, strike out in any direction, then get ready for some of the most intense solitude, quiet— and in-your-face stargazing— anywhere in Colorado. Eagles Nest Wilderness Solitude - 5 Size - 4 Access - 2 Escape - 5 Recreation - 3 Highlights - Sheer, stunning scenery; utter solitude It’s just a few miles from I-70, but you’d never know this dense collection of jagged peaks, plunging waterfalls, and challenging mountaineering routes was there if you weren’t looking for it. For some reason, this gorgeous corner of the Gore Range remains a secret. Could it be the fact that the Eagles Nest’s alpine interior remains largely untracked, thanks to its trail-defying vertical relief? Or is it the heavy snow that sticks to the landscape well into summer before it melts and feeds the reserve’s glittering creeks (and eventually, the Colorado River)? The reason doesn’t matter—what matters is that this postcard-pretty wilderness will be all yours if you dare to venture into its wild center. This 133,471-acre spot has just 180 miles of trail, and only two trails cross the entire wilderness at the north and south ends. Mountaineers and climbers come to ascend the Gore’s peaks, like range high point Mount Powell (13,534 feet; first conquered by John Wesley Powell in 1868) or challenging Peak C. Hikers and backpackers with strong quads will find unique alpine beauty along Slate Creek, Gore Creek, and up to Deluge Lake, among others.
See it Starting from moose-infested Piney Lake, hike north along the Soda Lakes Trail to the Piney Lake Trail. You’ll walk along a steep slope with expansive views down to the valley’s lush floor, popping in and out of conifer forest. Camp in one of the sheltered nooks along the way, or go deeper for a glimpse of the really stunning peaks to the east.
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Along the trail to Deluge Lake Trail & Timberline
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Black Canyon of the Gunnison Wilderness Solitude - 4 Size - 1 Access - 2 Escape - 5 Recreation - 5 Highlights - Extremely deep, narrow canyon scenery; adrenaline sports Just outside Montrose, the earth opens in a rocky gash. Sheer cliffs plunge as far as 2,400 feet to raging river rapids below, extending for 53 miles through the pinyon-covered hills. This improbably deep ravine is just 1,100 feet across at the rim at its narrowest spot; it squeezes to a claustrophobic 40 feet wide down at the river. This is the Black Canyon of the Gunnison, and it’s the deepest narrow canyon in North America. Worn into the area’s Precambrian gneiss by thousands of years of erosive action, the canyon lures adventurers and scenery buffs alike to peer into its unmatched depths. Everything about the Black is extreme. Among rock climbers, it’s famous for its 145 routes—the easiest of which are rated 5.8. The majority of the park’s climbs (117 of them) are multipitch traditional routes that rank 5.10 and higher. For paddlers, the Gunnison River is the ultimate proving ground: It’s a long, strenuous trip through class V rapids punctured by unrunnable stretches of wild river. The Black attracts only the stoutest of hikers willing to brave the precipitous, unmaintained trails to the inner canyon and the five-foot-tall poison ivy choking the routes. Even fishing this wilderness is extreme: Some of the state’s biggest trout live here, free from overfishing pressures and nourished by a protein-rich diet.
See it Experience the canyon from above on the North Rim Trail, which winds through pinyon and juniper to the park’s best views at Exclamation Point. Anyone who dares to explore the inner canyon should chat with rangers about the safest routes before embarking.
The veins of the Painted Wall
Uncompahgre Wilderness Solitude - 4 Size - 3 Access - 4 Escape - 4 Recreation - 4 Highlights - Volcanic landscape; solitude; climbing opportunities
© iStockphoto.com / Mike Norton
Though it’s one of seven wilderness areas in the San Juan Range, this northern corner of the region would never get lost in the crowd. From the craggy volcanic rock that composes the area’s summits to the banded stone pillars forming its unmistakable “rock castles,” the Uncompahgre has a landscape all its own. “There are really jagged, razortooth-type spires that separate all the valleys up there,” notes Bill Leo, owner of nearby Ouray Mountain Sports. Not only that, there are rushing trout streams slicing through the region from north to south and mining ghost towns dotting the periphery. And of course, an area touted as the “Switzerland of America” wouldn’t be complete without alpine challenge: 25 peaks higher than 13,000 feet, and two popular 14ers—Wetterhorn Peak (14,015 feet) and Uncompahgre Peak (14,309 feet). “The north side is very seldom traveled,” says Leo. “It’s definitely not as crowded as some of the other areas” in the San Juans. And the Uncompahgre (known as the Big Blue Wilderness until 1993, when Congress added a chunk of Bureau of Land Management land to the reserve) offers license to roam on its 150 miles of hiking and horse trails. Backpacking loops tracing the wilderness’s north-south river valleys are plentiful, and advanced climbers and mountaineers seeking to add another feather to their caps can tackle routes on Chimney Peak, Courthouse Mountain, and Coxcomb Mountain, among many others.
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it Leo sends his backpacking customers up the Middle Fork of the Cimarron Trail and back down the East Fork of the Cimarron for a weekend loop that cruises past the Uncompahgre’s signature volcanic spires and rocky pinnacles. These routes also offer access to 13,590-foot Matterhorn Peak, plus Wetterhorn and Uncompahgre peaks.
Mount Massive Wilderness Solitude - 2 Size - 1 Access - 3 Escape - 4 Recreation - 4 Highlights - High-mountain views; year-round recreation From the top of 14,421-foot Mt. Massive, the landscape turns into a polychrome sea of peaks extending in all directions. With all the red, purple, and brownish summits stretching underfoot—the peaks of the Hunter-Fryingpan Wilderness lie due west and the San Isabel National Forest is just south—a lucky hiker just might feel on top of the world. Indeed, it’s tough to get much higher. There are just two superior summits in the Lower 48—Mt. Elbert, rising 12 feet taller just to the south, and California’s Mt. Whitney, which bests Massive by 74 feet. The Mount Massive Wilderness is noteworthy, above all else, for the sheer enormity of the Sawatch summits found there. Mt. Massive itself boasts seven distinct summits above 14,000 feet. Unlike the sheer or jagged profiles cut by many of Colorado’s mountains, the Sawatch peaks feature gentle but gigantic slopes. This makes them nontechnical climbs, but also includes miles of above-treeline hiking—so get an early start. One drawback is that Massive’s fourteener status makes it a well-traveled peak; be prepared to share the trail. Those looking for a less crowded experience can travel the 10 miles of the Colorado Trail that slice through the eastern part of the wilderness, explore Swamp Lakes, Native Lakes, or North Halfmoon Lakes, or bundle up for a winter cross-country ski or snowshoe trip on the network of trails that begin at the Leadville National Fish Hatchery.
See it The 14-mile round-trip hike to Massive’s summit is grueling at times, but utterly worth the climb. Start the straightforward walk-up
from the Mt. Massive-Mt. Elbert Trailhead and track through lodgepole pine, spruce, and fir until breaking out onto open tundra. You’ll share the saddle below the summit ridge with sunbathing marmots before scrambling the remaining distance to the top.
The broad expanse of Mount Massive (center) is framed by the colorful rock of Mount Elbert.
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Black Ridge Canyons Wilderness Solitude - 2
Size - 2
Access - 4
Escape - 3
Recreation - 3
In a state where canyon-country wilderness areas already stand out, Black Ridge Canyons shines far above the rest. This 75,439acre preserve straddles the Colorado-Utah border and boasts Rattlesnake Arches, the second-largest concentration of rock arches in the world, thousand-foot-deep redrock canyons, stellar paddling opportunities, waterfalls, and even habitat for the rare short-tailed black swallow butterfly. No fewer than seven redrock canyons penetrate the wilderness (part of McGinnis Canyons National Conservation Area). Ranging from a few miles to 12 miles in length, these canyons offer a glimpse of classic Southwestern scenery right here in Colorado: scooped-out nooks known as giant alcoves, soaring rock spires, and graduated orange cliffs. Waterfalls splash over pouroffs during spring runoff and after summer storms. Desert bighorn sheep, mountain lions, peregrine falcons, and golden and bald eagles all call the Black Ridge Canyons home. Hikers can explore the canyon systems from several Fruita-area trailheads, or, even better, start the trails from the Colorado River on the north side of the wilderness. Rafters flock to this hotspot for mellow paddling through Horsethief and Ruby canyons and easy access to the mouths of several standout rifts, including Rattlesnake, Mee, and Jones canyons.
See
Rattlesnake Arch
it Put in at Loma, just northwest of Fruita, and float the Colorado 26 miles to Westwater Ranger Station just over the state line. Make a weekend of it by camping in one of the side canyons. One can’t-miss destination: Rattlesnake Arches. See the dozen sandstone arches on a strenuous hike from Flume Creek Canyon, a half-mile walk from the 4WD Hunter Access Road, or a steep climb from the Colorado River through Rattlesnake Canyon.
Solitude - 4
Size - 1
Access - 5
Escape - 4
Recreation - 4
Highlights - Deserted trails; giant trees
John Fielder
Never Summer Wilderness
Sometimes it pays to be overshadowed. Most visitors to northern Colorado get absorbed by American favorite Rocky Mountain National Park, never making it over Trail Ridge Road to the west side of the preserve—let alone to the Never Summers. This snowy collection of peaks lies immediately west of Rocky Mountain, but few venture far into its lush, marshy depths. They’re missing prime habitat for moose, black bear, and elk, plus excellent trout streams, lovely tarns, and challenging summits. Never Summer is right: This 21,090-acre escape draws plenty of powder that lingers into the warmer months, feeding the wilderness’s ponds and streams and eventually flowing into the Colorado, Cache la Poudre, and North Platte rivers. It’s also home to 17 peaks higher than 12,000 feet, some with suitably cloudscraping names (Mt. Cumulous and Mt. Cirrus). And the lower ecosystems rising out of the Kawuneeche Valley have their own appeal: 600-year-old conifer trees, some with trunk diameters reaching four feet across. The drawback? The pine beetle epidemic has hit this region hard, leaving swaths of dead trees behind.
See it Traverse the entire wilderness from north to south by linking the Never Summer Trail with the Bowen Pass Trail. From the Lake Agnes Trailhead in the Colorado State Forest, walk about a mile to Lake Agnes, then hook up with Never Summer just beyond. You’ll meander high above treeline, then turn right on the Baker Gulch Trail to Parika Lake. Climb above the lake and hike cross-country along the Continental Divide to connect with Bowen Pass Trail and your shuttle car. 30
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The Never Summer Range
Sasha Nelson
John Fielder
Highlights - Redrock scenery; desert wildlife; classic Colorado River floating
Flat Tops Wilderness Solitude - 5
Size - 5
Access - 3
Escape - 4
Recreation - 4
The Flat Tops Wilderness, part of the White River Plateau, is tucked away to the northwest of the state, keeping most Front Rangers at bay. All the better for the few who do venture into this vast, subalpine tundra of rolling green hills, basalt lava cliffs, and hundreds of fishable lakes and streams. Within its 235,214 acres (it’s the second-largest wilderness in Colorado), hikers will find two rare luxuries: wide-open, fairly mellow terrain and many opportunities to link trails into loop hikes. Wildlife lovers won’t be disappointed, either: The Flat Tops are also known for the elk herds that roam the region—sometimes up to 20,000 animals in the summer—plus black bear, coyote, and deer. About 110 lakes and ponds, plus 100 streams, offer up cutthroat, brook, rainbow, and brown trout. “Almost anyplace that you find a stream, even a small one, you’re probably going to find cutthroats,” says Al Marlowe, author of Fly-Fishing the Flat Tops. And thrill seekers can also find a fix in the northern part of the wilderness on the Devil’s Causeway, a narrow band of rock—three feet wide in places—with 500-foot drops on either side. Take a deep breath and walk carefully.
John Fielder
Highlights - Lush, open terrain packed with wildlife and lakes
Chinese Wall
Soren Jespersen (3)
See it Trappers Lake—a gorgeous tarn framed by volcanic cliffs—is rightfully popular. For a quieter experience, head west to the East Marvine Trailhead. You’ll trace East Marvine Creek as you climb up to the rolling tundra, a paradise landscape of tiny lakes and peaceful wooded campsites. Rise early on day two to summit 11,879-foot Big Marvine Peak, a walk-up with eagle-eye views of the verdant hills all around. Continue south, then west on the Marvine Trail to close the loop.
Trappers Peak
Wall Lake
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What about the Indian Peaks? Wondering why some of your favorites didn’t make our list? Some of Colorado’s most epic landscapes—such as the Indian Peaks, Maroon Bells-Snowmass, and Rocky Mountain National Park—are teeming with tourists and locals who dig the easy access and world-class alpine attractions of these wilderness areas. Our picks offer equally superlative scenery without the crowds. And by all means explore the more popular wilderness areas, too: Try hiking in early summer and fall, and snowshoeing or skiing in the winter, to get away from it all. △ Shoshoni Peak (center) looms over Lake Isabelle, in the Indian Peaks Wilderness.
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What’s
Wilderne$$
Worth?
Maybe Money Does Grow on Trees
by chris case
W
hat’s wilderness worth? Listen to the eloquence of John Muir and Wallace Stegner; feel the passion of David Brower and study the methodical ethic of Aldo Leopold. Their words define wilderness. Yet, their thoughts never amounted to a sum value. Worth can—and in the case of wilderness, should—mean so much more. Now, however, in an era of caustic debate falsely pitting land against man— landscape preservation against economic salvation—the answer to the question of what wilderness is worth has taken on new power. “People opposed to wilderness began raising the economic question,” says John Loomis, a professor of agricultural and resource economics at Colorado State University. “Mining, timber, livestock grazing, even 34
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the chamber of commerce will say, ‘Oh my god, these are elitists that want wilderness.’” So, after Loomis and other economists considered the question, we have wilderness economics—and can place a value on protected places, if we so feel the need. Most of us know better than to rely on private enterprise to tell us the value— both tangible and intangible—of wilderness. The argument placed forth by extractive industries—that removal is the only use that yields wealth—is an epic lie. Theirs is a penchant for converting the natural wealth contained in the nation's pristine forests, deserts, canyons, and mesas into a fleeting boon of corporate profit. It never lasts. Indeed, it can’t last. Ultimately, the choice is not, and never
has been, between mining (and money) and preservation (and poverty). As many people are now realizing— politicians, boards of tourism, and county commissioners alike—wilderness means money, too. And wilderness lasts. As many of the early wilderness proponents—trained scientists—knew, wilderness protection was about far more than recreation. “There is economic value just by preserving it,” Loomis says, referring to those less tangible benefits that have for so long been ignored. “Economic valuation provides some balance to the environment versus people dichotomy, which is a false comparison.” But why has it taken so long for people to realize the sum value of wilderness? It may have to do with the complexity of eco-
▲ John Muir used powerful words to express the value of Yosemite Valley. Now, words aren't enough. Wilderness preservation has been positioned by some as the opponent of economy salvation, albeit falsely. Still, wilderness economics begs the question: How much would you pay to see a place like Yosemite last for eternity? How much would you pay to make sure your grandchild had a chance to witness mists rise from the valley floor? Chris Case nomic valuation. We can all see (and many of us take part in) the direct use benefits: things like hiking and hunting. Furthermore, the science community needs wilderness as a baseline
for research and education. We all benefit from wilderness’ capacity to improve the resources most precious for life: air and water. These and other ecosystem services, as they are known, continue to gain prominence in the grand scheme of land protection, as we learn more about the benefits of carbon storage, nutrient cycling, and waste treatment provided by wilderness. Still, these things only constitute a portion of the total value of wilderness and wild landscapes. The difficulty in understanding and calculating the sum value comes from things economists call passive-use values. They’re often broken into three categories: option values, bequest values, and existence values. The option value is akin to an insurance policy: people are willing to pay for more than their expected recreation benefits to maintain the option—for themselves or for their children—of visiting wildlands in the future. Similarly, the bequest value of wilderness protection represents what we would be willing to pay to bequest wildlands to our kids. Hardest to grasp, perhaps, is existence value, the notion that there is a psychological value a person enjoys from just knowing that a wilderness exists—regardless of whether the person will ever visit an area. Politicians have tended to ignore the wilderness economics numbers. Preferring to cater to extractive priorities, they have chosen to view profit dollars through the short-term lens—that which is present and understandable—rather than employing more complex arithmetic to determine the economic value of a place over generations. Yet, the figures for simple recreation— something that is tangible and profitbased—are stunning. In 1995, U.S. Forest Service economists measured the agency's holdings and found that national forests generated $125 billion a year in economic activity. An astounding 75 percent of that figure was based on recreation economy. Timber and mining, by contrast, amounted to 15 percent. By 1995, it had become all too apparent that recreation, and not timber, was the Forest Service's main product. Furthermore, recently developed economic models have shown that public lands benefit more from quiet recreation—the hunting, fishing, hiking, and camping that take place so often in wilderness—than from motorized recreation. In Colorado's Arapaho and Roosevelt national forests, for example, nonmotorized recreation provided 1,228 jobs and $37.8 million in income, compared with 244 jobs and $11.7 million
for motorized recreation. So, what does this all mean for a place like Colorado? No case study may be more applicable than Kane County, Utah, which lies about 210 miles south of Salt Lake City. That’s because Kane County, home to much of the Grand Staircase–Escalante National Monument, was once the site of one of Utah's most intense wilderness battles. It started in 1996, when the Clinton administration designated the 1.7 million-acre monument. That made Bill Clinton in Kane County about as popular as George Bush in Berkeley. Alarmist predictions of economic disaster coursed through the small town and county seat of Kanab after plans to open a coal mine on the monument's grassy Kaiparowits Plateau were halted by the designation. Instead of visions of boom, there were omens of bust. Contrary to the residents’ worst fears, the bust never came. Instead, economic findings suggest that Kane County began to thrive. A comparison of data from the four years prior to the monument's creation (1992–1996) with data from the four years after showed that the unemployment rate in the county dropped by more than half, while labor income rose faster than it had in the pre-monument period. Per-job earnings, which fell 7 percent before the monument, rose 13 percent after it was created. Property values rose significantly, too (after seeing a decline in years leading up to the designation). And, on Main Street, the average wage per job went up. With the fortunes of the county hitched to the wellbeing of the mining industry and, therefore, at the mercy of globally determined price trends, Kane County could have suffered a roller coaster economic ride. Instead, there was a path to sustainable growth. It wasn’t from a short-term influx of coal mining revenues. Word migrated that the area had a new monument. Some started visiting; others moved their businesses to Kanab, population 4,500, or decided to retire in Kane County. An influx of retirees spurred growth in health-care jobs. Recreation boomed, of course. And, services that cater to the traveler grew, too. Best of all, the landscape that drew all of this attention is never going to pack up and leave the area. It, like all federally designated wilderness areas, lives on like the words of Muir, Stegner, Brower, and Leopold: forever. △ Trail & Timberline
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Keeping Colorado Wild The Colorado Mountain Club and Wilderness Designation
“Colorado Mountain Club members do not have to be sold on the need for preservation of natural wild areas in Colorado and the United States.” – Raymond R. Lanier, chairman of State Parks and Wilderness for the Colorado Division of the Izaak Walton League of America, in “Some Wilderness Area Problems,” Trail and Timberline #477, September 1958
T
he wilderness experience is defined by remarkable moments: scrambling across a serrated ridgeline as building winds swirl; arching back to digest the full beauty, staggering volume, and ancient poise of a massif in morning light; stumbling upon that rarely seen moose dipping his tongue into the reeds. Many of us expend great energy in pursuit of these humbling moments. But most of us devoted to touching the wild also know that superior fervor is essential for the eternal protection of these lands. The Colorado Mountain Club has shown such devotion and has worked tirelessly throughout its history to preserve Colorado’s wild places. Towards Wilderness The movement towards a system of wilder-
1872 Yellowstone becomes the nation's first national park.
1897 The Forest "Organic" Act (formally titled the Sundry Civil Appropriations Act of 1897) establishes the National Forest system for the purpose of "securing favorable conditions of water flow, and securing a continuous supply of timber..."
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ness protection began in earnest in the first half of the twentieth century. As early as 1925, Aldo Leopold had promoted a vision for a “definite national policy,” advocating for a system of wilderness areas involving both national parks and forests. In 1934, Bob Marshall built upon this idea with his endorsement for a “nationwide wilderness plan,” suggesting the need to protect, by statutory law, the parks and forests, and extending protection to the public lands administered by what became the Bureau of Land Management, Indian reservations, and state and private lands. In 1945, Howard Zahniser emerged at the head of the wilderness movement when he was appointed as the executive secretary of The Wilderness Society and editor of the organization’s publication, Living Wilderness. Zahniser used the magazine to educate a wider public on the advantages of wilderness preservation and to alert supporters to emerging threats to surviving wildlands. In the early 1950s, he led the pivotal campaign to preserve Echo Park and prevent the construction of a dam within Dinosaur National Monument. This celebrated conservation victory brought the wilderness movement intense publicity and garnered the political clout to
1903 The nation's first wildlife refuge is formed when President Theodore Roosevelt protects Pelican Island, Florida, from hunters who had been decimating the island's bird population. Nearly 70 years later the area is designated a wilderness (in 1970), becoming the smallest designated wilderness in the system (5 acres).
1905 The Department of Agriculture is tasked with managing forest reserves under the auspices of the United States Forest Service.
push for federal wilderness legislation. On the local scale, numerous organizations and groups like the Colorado Mountain Club began to engage on the issue. On November 14, 1958, E. H. Brunquist, a representative of the club’s board of directors and conservation committee, attended a hearing in Albuquerque, New Mexico, in support of a bill to establish the National Wilderness Preservation System. Hotly debated, the proposed bill was receiving considerable criticism despite numerous revisions and concessions. Ironically, those opposed to the bill struggled with many of the same perceived problems that wilderness opponents grapple with today: they contended the bill would “strike a blow at the very heart of the state’s economy and the ability of its people to make a decent living”; they were under the impression that “the wilderness areas [could] be used for recreation and not much else”; they were afraid that designation would “lock the treasure chest of the U.S. and throw away the key.” For the next six years, debate persisted over the language and goals of the proposed bill; Brunquist continued to represent the club’s interests in a national system for wilderness protection.
1911 The Weeks Act appropriates $9 million to purchase six million acres of land in the eastern United States for the purpose of establishing national forests.
1916 The National Park Organic Act creates the National Park Service and establishes the National Park System in order to conserve scenery, wildlife, and "historic objects" for future generations.
In 1961, CMC member Roger Fuehrer helped revitalize the club’s conservation committee, and spurred a concerted, determined, and fruitful commitment to the salvation of wilderness lands in Colorado. As a result, the influence of the CMC within the wilderness movement was recognized statewide. In January 1962, a leaflet was prepared by the Wilderness Committee of Colorado and sent to the Denver group members of the club. They were encouraged to join the organization in support of the wilderness bill. Brunquist urged the members of the club to lend their support to the cause. “‘Grass roots’ support might well tip the scales in favor of passage of an effective bill,” he wrote. Multiple Trail & Timberline articles appeared that year highlighting the importance of supporting a federal system designed to protect wildlands throughout the nation. Meanwhile, Wayne Aspinall, the Colorado congressman serving as chairman of the House Committee on Interior and Insular Affairs, was openly doing his best to prevent the bill from being discussed and voted upon on the House floor. Harper's Magazine declared a showdown: Wayne Aspinall vs. the People of the United States. Over the course of 1964, the conservation committee focused its attention on the debate in Washington over the proposed wilderness bill. Working from an apartment that Fuehrer shared with three other CMC members, the young group was able to persuade countless people to testify at the Denver hearings on behalf of the bill. As Fuehrer
1924 Ecologist Aldo Leopold achieves designation of the first official wilderness area—the Gila Wilderness in New Mexico.
noted in a 1982 article in Trail & Timberline (#759), so many people testified that Congress in Washington actually adjourned for two days while the Congressmen in Denver heard three days of testimony—two days longer than originally scheduled. After decades of grueling deliberation and debate, and the efforts of organizations large and small, the wilderness movement was finally on the cusp of a great triumph. Howard Zahniser imbued the final bill with his characteristic eloquence and philosophy: A wilderness, in contrast with those areas where man and his own works dominate the landscape, is hereby recognized as an area where the earth and its community of life are untrammeled by man, where man himself is a visitor who does not remain. On September 3, 1964, the Wilderness Act was signed into law, creating the National Wilderness Preservation System and requiring an act of Congress to designate any further wilderness area. Sadly, Zahniser never tasted the fruit of his devotion. He passed away less than six months before the Act was signed. But his acts of dedication were to live on: Through his commitment to the cause, the wilderness movement succeeded in creating a federal system of preservation that would protect wildlands in perpetuity. In Colorado, the Wilderness Act provided eternal protection to five tracts of rich landscape: La Garita, Maroon BellsSnowmass, Mount Zirkel, Rawah, and West Elk Wilderness areas. This original class of
1960 The Multiple Use and Sustained Yield Act redefined the purpose of the national forests to include not only timber and watershed concerns, but also recreation, wildlife, fishing, hunting, and soil concerns.
1946 The Grazing Service and the General Land Office are merged to form the Bureau of Land Management.
five—now constituting 720,553 acres of protected land—was but a small portion of the 9.1 million acres of wilderness that was designated throughout the U.S. that year. Colorado Gets Wild Once the Wilderness Act was introduced, a new challenge began: how to most effectively put this new conservation tool to use. There was enormous potential for protection, but it was coupled with a novel legislative process. Beginning in 1970, the CMC involved itself in a number of wilderness proposals. On July 1, 1970, the first wilderness hearing for one of Colorado’s national monuments was held in Alamosa. The intent was to discuss the designation of Great Sand Dunes National Monument as wilderness. There was a major controversy involving the eastern boundary, where a local concessionaire planned to rent dune buggies. Also during the summer of 1970, the CMC participated in hearings for the Weminuche, Uncompahgre, and Mount Sneffels Wilderness areas. The proposed Weminuche faced particularly vehement opposition from loggers, miners, and from officials in Hinsdale County who were promoting a highway project between Lake City and Pagosa Springs. More than twice the size of the largest wilderness area in the state, the Weminuche could almost as easily never have happened without the support generated by the CMC’s conservation committee. Yet, over the course of the next decade, protection ul-
1964 ■ The Wilderness Act is signed into law on September 3, designating 9.1 million acres as wilderness throughout the U.S., including La Garita, Maroon Bells-Snowmass, Mount Zirkel, Rawah, and West Elk Wilderness areas in Colorado. ■ The Land and Water Conservation Fund Act is established to purchase park and refuge lands with royalties from offshore oil drilling.
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timately prevailed with the creation of Weminuche, Uncompahgre, Mount Sneffels, and Great Sand Dunes Wilderness areas. At the same time, Colorado was facing its greatest wilderness controversy in the battle over the Eagles Nest Wilderness area. In September 1970, the club began advocating for the preservation of this powerful and plentiful landscape. “The wild Gore Range is untrammeled and wonderfully wild,” wrote Hugh Kingery, editor of Trail & Timberline at the time. “Only a handful of its peaks bear names—adding to the wild aura. Many of these summits have never felt the climber’s foot. We urge you to write your support to the Forest Service.” Unfortunately, the same plentiful natural resources which made Eagles Nest so precious to conservationists were coveted by numerous public and private industries. As Mark Pearson writes in his guide to Colorado’s Wilderness Areas, “a formidable array of powerful interests lined up against the Eagles Nest Wilderness legislation in 1976: the U.S. Department of Transportation, Kaibab Industries (a major timber company), and the Denver Water Department.” All wanted something from the land, whether that was water, wood, or a highway corridor. Ultimately, a series of compromises prevented the area from being eviscerated. In 1976, it became a 133,000-plus acre wilderness. Only two years later, controversy raged over another jaggedly attractive, but heavily used region—the popular Indian Peaks area. The CMC became one of a number of organizations supporting the creation of the wilderness area. At a hearing in support of the bill in July 1978, the protection of the area’s “great aesthetic, biological, and spiritual value” was promoted as “another step toward the restoration of an ancient balance of knowledge, heart, and spirit, nourished by the earth and guarded by the wise.” Clearly, the serrated ridges and rough-hewn summits of the Indian 38
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1972 Clean Water Act signed into law. 1973 Endangered Species Act signed into law, protecting habitat for plants and wildlife. 1974 Forest and Rangeland Renewable Resources Planning Act establishes planning process for all forest and rangeland resources. 1976 ■ The National Forest Management Act requires the U.S. Forest Service to include economic, wildlife, wilderness, and recreational uses in planning. ■ Black Canyon of the Gunnison, Great Sand Dunes, Eagles Nest, and Mesa Verde Wilderness areas designated (over 1.7 million acres of wilderness are designated in 19 other states). ■ The Federal Lands Policy and Management Act governs the use of the national lands managed by the Bureau of Land Management.
1970 ■ Environmental Protection Agency established. ■ Clean Air Act signed into law. ■ National Environmental Policy Act (NEPA) signed into law, requiring an analysis of the environmental impacts of federal actions. ■ President's Council on Environmental Quality established. The CEQ advises and assists the President on environmental policies and oversees the implementation of the environmental impact assessment process by federal agencies. 1975 Flat Tops and Weminuche Wilderness areas designated.
1978 Hunter-Fryingpan and Indian Peaks Wilderness areas designated (over 5.5 million acres of wilderness are designated in 17 other states). 1980 Neota, Never Summer, Raggeds, Lizard Head, Lost Creek, Mount Evans, Mount Massive, Mount Sneffels, Cache La Poudre, Collegiate Peaks, Comanche Peak, Holy Cross, South San Juan, and Uncompahgre Wilderness areas designated. A number of other existing areas gained considerable additions. 1984 New wilderness areas totaling 8.6 million acres are established in 21 states (Colorado gains a small portion of the Platte River Wilderness, the majority of which is established in Wyoming).
1993 The Colorado Wilderness Act of 1993 establishes Buffalo Peaks, Byers Peak, Fossil Ridge, Greenhorn Mountain, Powderhorn, Ptarmigan Peak, Sangre de Cristo, Sarvis Creek, and Vasquez Peak Wilderness areas.
1998 President Clinton issues his directive to the U.S. Forest Service to conduct an Environmental Impact Statement leading to possible long-term protection of 50-60 million acres of roadless lands.
2009 Backcountry of Rocky Mountain National Park and Dominguez Canyon Wilderness areas designated. 1999 Black Canyon of the Gunnison National Monument is made a national park.
2000 ■ Black Ridge Canyons Wilderness designated (the bill also created the adjacent Colorado Canyons National Conservation Area). ■ Black Canyon of the Gunnison Wilderness expanded. ■ Gunnison Gorge Wilderness designated. ■ Spanish Peaks Wilderness designated. The area had been studied and considered for wilderness designation for nearly two decades.
2002 James Peak Wilderness designated.
Peaks were visually stunning, its glaciers were thought to be the southernmost permanently found in North America, and its lakes and drainages offered an abundance of precious water. Disputes erupted, however, over whether an area that saw so much visitation should become wilderness, or whether the Indian Peaks could in fact meet the requirements for solitude demanded by the Wilderness Act. Finally, in October 1978 it was decided that through careful management, the required opportunities for solitude could indeed be found within the Indian Peaks Wilderness, and that the impacts of extensive recreational use could be mitigated by limiting access to the area east of the Continental Divide. Over 75,000 acres were thereby set aside for protection in perpetuity. Two years later, following on the heels of the Forest Service's Roadless Area Review and Evaluation II (RARE II), the club further strengthened its position on wilderness designation with the creation of a Wilderness Subcommittee. The state board urged the new committee to “preserve as much quality wilderness as possible.” Still at the helm of the conservation committee, Fuehrer reported in Trail & Timberline (#736, May 1980) that since RARE II, “club members have shown their deep concern for Colorado’s wildlands by
conferences and workshops, lobbying across the state and in Washington, D.C., going on numerous wilderness field studies—towards the passage of a Colorado Wilderness Bill. On December 22, 1980, their dedication was wholeheartedly rewarded. On that day, no less than 14 new wilderness areas were created in the state, including Neota, Never Summer, Raggeds, Lizard Head, Lost Creek, Mount Evans, Mount Massive, Mount Snef-
fels, Cache La Poudre, Collegiate Peaks, Comanche Peak, Holy Cross, South San Juan, and Uncompahgre Wilderness areas. Under the bill, a number of other existing areas gained considerable additions. These areas
head for wilderness negotiations. Although support for and involvement in the wilderness movement among the membership varied from area to area, the board of directors ultimately approved the club’s stance for more wilderness protection. In 1993, the Buffalo Peaks, Byers Peak, Fossil Ridge, Greenhorn Mountain, Powderhorn, Ptarmigan Peak, Sangre de Cristo, Sarvis Creek, and Vazquez Peak Wilderness areas were designated. Today, they total 469,314 acres of pristine Colorado landscape. As with most environmental causes today, an individual voice is only as loud as the chorus of which it is a part. Banding together, individuals, organizations, citizens’ groups, and conservation coalitions collectively tackle the pursuit of wilderness protection. It may take Congress to enact wilderness law, but each wilderness designation seen in Colorado, as in every state, has started with the inspired, determined, and cooperative advocacy of individuals. In such a way, on March 30, 2009, years of effort by the club and a myriad of partners resulted in wilderness designation for over two million acres of wild lands throughout the nation, including the backcountry of Colorado’s Rocky Mountain National Park and the Dominguez Canyon Wilderness area. And the drive continues. As long as
contributing money for a special wilderness fund, by participating in the work of the committee, and by writing hundreds of letters at critical times.” For months, committee volunteers had contributed thousands of hours of work—writing reports, attending
now amount to a total of 1,006,871 acres. In the early 1990s, the CMC’s position within the greater wilderness movement underwent significant change. The club hired its first conservation staff member, Anne Vickery, thereby gaining an effective spear-
there are people devoted to climbing precipices in solitude; as long as wildlife needs a wild home; as long as waters trickle from winter snow pack; as long as there is land of wilderness value there will be a need for wilderness protection. △
At a hearing in support of the bill in July 1978, the protection of the area’s “great aesthetic, biological, and spiritual value” was promoted as “another step toward the restoration of an ancient balance of knowledge, heart, and spirit, nourished by the earth and guarded by the wise.
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t" os "L he T
I
Greenhorn Mountains
n south-central Colorado, just west of Pueblo and east of the Sangre de Cristo Range, rise the Wet Mountains. A comparatively small range, the Wets are about 45 miles long and ten miles wide. The range’s southern terminus is Greenhorn Mountain, which, at 12,349 feet, is also its highest peak. In 1993, the mountain and 22,000 acres surrounding it were protected as the Greenhorn Mountain Wilderness area. The place name “Greenhorn” has usually been credited to one source: The Comanche chief Cuerno Verde who was killed in 1779 while leading a reckless charge against a Spanish expeditionary force near the base of present day Greenhorn Mountain. According to place name writer Maxine Benson, Cuerno Verde—literally Green Horn in Spanish— was known for his “striking headdress.” But rumors of another Greenhorn lurked about south-central Colorado in the late 1800s. In 1877, botanist Samuel Scudder climbed Hamilton Peak (13,658 feet) which is just southeast of the Blanca massif, or about 30 miles south of the Crestone massif. Both
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By Woody Smith
are located in the Sangre de Cristo Range. Scudder’s accountdescribes the view north from Hamilton’s summit framed by Mt. Blanca and Mt. Lindsey, wherein “rise the craggy tops of the Greenhorn Mountains.” A long forgotten article from the Rocky An 1879 map by the General Land Office (above). A similar map Mountain News from "Thayer's New Map of Colorado" of 1873 (below). also mentions a mysterious “Greenhorn range.” Writing Northeast, Pike’s peak rears his huge proin July 1883, the unnamed author boldly portions, in plain view, and, seemingly only claims an ascent of a peak known as “Cre- a few miles distant, overlooking the vast stone,” but which was most likely present- plains eastward and beyond; while in the intervening space can be seen the Greenhorn day Kit Carson Mountain. “Directly south ‘Old Blanco,’” the au- range, Wet Mountain valley, Rosita, and Silthor writes, “robed on his northern slope ver Cliff, so near, apparently, that you might with eternal snow… To the southeast the cast a fingerstone in their midst…” (Rocky Spanish peaks… stand out in bold relief. Mountain News, July 29, 1883). But the description, though detailed, leaves questions. If there is a Wet Mountain Valley, where are the Wet Mountains? Most notable is the apparent failure to mention the present day Crestone massif by any name—though obviously the question is made more difficult by the fact that the 1883 writer was standing on the peak he called “Crestone.” Certainly the massif, including both Peak and Needle, is noteworthy. Rising just two miles southeast of present day Kit Carson Mountain, its rugged form dominates the view. The answer may be, that as far as the 1883 writer knew, the Crestone massif was part of the “Greenhorn range.” Subsequent research has uncovered the long forgotten Greenhorn Mountains which appeared regularly on Colorado maps from the 1870s to the 1890s. On some maps, the “lost” Greenhorns were a line of mountains clustered near La Veta Pass. On other maps they stretched from the northern Sangre de
Cristos, near the town of Crestone, down to La Veta Pass, and then northeast up the Wet Mountains toward Pueblo. Given the jumble of mountains that converge near La Veta Pass, it’s understandable how early map makers might have compressed them into one range. This cartographic confusion may have been partly caused by the federal government, since the first known appearance of the “lost” Greenhorn Mountains occurred on maps issued by the General Land Office in 1879 and 1880. Although virtually unknown now, the smiling Greenhorns apparently had enough currency to be used by locals, visiting writers, and at least a few mapmakers. In an author-conducted study of 105 era maps, it was found that the mythic Greenhorn Mountains appeared on nearly a quarter of those published during the 1880s and 1890s—usually on the maps of Thayer and George F. Cram. Its last known appearance was on the 1905 Cram map of Colorado. But the mythic Greenhorns were quickly lost to the mists of time. By 1931, as notable a source as lawyer, mountaineering historian, and author John L. J. Hart knew nothing of them. Upon reading Scudder’s 1877 account,
Hart, who also edited Trail & Timberline, erroneously corrected him: “He (Scudder) wrote: ‘To the north between Baldy and the summit of Blanca rise the craggy tops of the Greenhorn Mountains…’ He did not see the Greenhorn Mountains, but saw Kit Carson, Crestone and Crestone Needle, which are very impressive from this point” (Fourteen Thousand Feet, Second Edition). But Hart’s correction needs correcting—Scudder knew what he saw. However, the inclusion of the Crestone massif with the lost Greenhorns raises another question. Was the name “Greenhorn” a description of the Crestones, rather than a reference to the Comanche chief? Certainly the Crestones are green, particularly in summer. Crestone Peak, in particular, also fits the traditional definition of a mountain “horn,” which according to Webster’s Dictionary is “a pyramidal mountain peak, esp. one having concave faces.” Some credence is lent to this theory by J. Frank Dawson, author of Place Names in Colorado, published in 1954. His unsourced listing for the town of Greenhorn, located south of Pueblo, indicates that it was named “for the color and shape of a nearby mountain. The Spaniards called it ‘Cuerno Verde’ meaning the same thing.” △
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CMC Adventure Travel For your benefit and enjoyment, the following trips have been reviewed and approved by the Adventure Travel Committee and are officially sanctioned by the Colorado Mountain Club.
Visit www.cmc.org/at for more detailed itineraries and registration forms.
Barrier Islands - Georgia April 3 – 11, 2010 $1,207 (does not include airfare)
The United States has some beautiful places to visit and this area is high on the list. We will first visit St. Simon Island where we will bicycle and stroll beneath centuries-old oaks draped in Spanish moss, visit interesting historic sites and walk on sandy beaches. Jekyll Island, founded in 1886, was the winter retreat for some of America’s most elite families, including the likes of Astor, Rockefeller, and Vanderbilt. For part of the day we will visit some of their restored residences in the Jekyll Island Club National Historic Landmark District and also spend time bicycling around the island. Sapelo, reached only by ferry, is another island where we can see virtually every facet of a barrier island’s natural community. Another stop on our tour will be in Savannah, a few miles from the islands. Here you will be taken back to a time of opulent mansions, moss draped oaks and impressive architecture. Enjoy Savannah’s southern hospitality that has been offered since the 1700s. For more information, contact Betsy Weitkamp at 303-722-1656 or elaw@q.com.
Best of the Grand Canyon – Colorado River Raft & Hike April 10 – 22, 2010 $4,075 (Limit 18)
We will depart from the historic Lee's Ferry and end with a helicopter ride from Whitmore Wash and a plane flight back to the start. It is especially ideal for those who would like to hike in areas which can be reached only from the river, and those who have always wanted to experience the canyon but who do not wish to make the seven-mile, 4,500-foot trek on foot. Our outfitter, Hatch River Expeditions, has
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been guiding river trips through the canyon for over 70 years. We will have three guides and 20 participants on two 35-foot S-rig boats running fuel-efficient and quiet 4-stroke outboard engines. The average motorized raft trip through the Grand Canyon runs seven days, so this 12 day trip will have plenty of opportunities for hiking. They offer us daily guided hikes at two or three hiking levels, or one may choose to rest in camp. The deposit is $300. Please visit www.cmc. org/AT for cancellation policy, payment schedule, and additional information, and to call leaders for availability. Register with leaders Blake Clark or Rosemary Burbank at (303) 871-0379 or blakerosemary@cs.com
Scotland
West Highland Way and Ben Nevis
May 13 – 25, 2010 $2,335 (does not include airfare)
We'll walk for 82 miles along lochs, waterfalls, and craggy mountains on Scotland's spectacular West Highland Way. Carry only what you need for a day hike on this fully supported trek. Daily mileage ranges from 9 to 14 miles for the seven day trip. At the end of the trek, weather permitting, we will ascend Ben Nevis (4,409 feet), the highest point of the British Isles. Short excursions are planned in Edinburgh and Sterling en route to the trek starting point. Price includes 11 nights lodging in small hotels and inns, with breakfasts included. All lunches are included except for three travel days. Dinners will be included except for two each at the beginning and end of the trip. Price includes ground transfers to and from the Edinburgh Airport; Edinburgh to Drymen to start the trek; Fort William back to Edinburgh; baggage transfers during the trek; ferry and bus transportation on activity days; admission to the mentioned cultural sites; CMC fee; and partial leader reimbursement. Price does not include airfare to Edinburgh, but leaders will assist participants with scheduling. To obtain the trip application packet, con-
tact Steve at climbersteveb@gmail.com or Linda at lvditchkus@hotmail.com. No phone calls please.
Moab Mountain Bike and Hike May 20 – 23, 2010 $275 Before March 1
Our adventure will be based near Moab. We’ll explore the famous mountain biking and hiking trails in the Moab area, and in Arches and Canyonlands National Parks. We will ride (and hike) with groups of various sizes and abilities for four days of adventure in this amazing desert wonderland. A favorite for biking or hiking is the seldom traveled Hidden Canyon trail, with its prolific Anasazi art and hunting ruins. Included will be savory foods prepared by experienced, desert gourmet chefs. Also included are camping fees, all your water needs, and sanolets. You will also receive a t-shirt custom designed for this year’s adventure. You provide your own transportation to and from the rides and hikes which are accessible with any automobile. You also need to bring your own camping gear and bike (if you ride) or rent one in Moab. Carpooling is encouraged. Not included: transportation to Moab, bike rental if needed. Price increases are as follows: March 2-April 10, $300; April 11-May 10, $325; after May 10, $350. Contact Janet Farrar at wildjc@juno.com or 303-933-3066.
Peru: Huayhuash Trek May 29 – June 18, 2010 $1,950
Trek in the rugged and remote Cordillera Huayhuash in northern Peru, starting with a city tour in Lima, and then a bus ride north to Huaraz. There, we will do a couple of day hikes before starting out on the 14-day loop trek in the stun-
ning Cordillera Huayhuash. This supported trek will take us high into the Andes, skirting peaks over 17,000 feet, visiting high lakes and hiking over passes above 14,000 feet. We will circumnavigate Nevado Yerupaja: At 21,560 feet, it is the world’s second highest tropical mountain. The trip carries a “C” classification for its high elevation and rugged trails. Not included in the trip cost are airfare to Lima, travel insurance, several meals, guide tips or personal spending money. For more information, contact Janet Farrar at wildjc@juno.com or 303-933-3066.
Montenegro with Rada
June 7 – 22, 2010 $2,151 (does not include airfare) Rada Perovic, born in Montenegro and now residing in Golden, will be your host for a two week excursion to this unspoiled Mediterranean and mountain paradise. Montenegro, with a population of 730,000, gained independence in May 2006 and has the distinction of being one of the world’s newest countries. We will begin our journey on the coast, where beautiful beaches meet the crystal clear azure water of the Adriatic Sea. From our base in the old Medieval Town of Budva, we will explore the 15th century fortresses and other towns and quaint villages along the coast. We will hike on coastal trails, spend time on the beach and enjoy the warm hospitality of the Montenegrin people while exploring the culture and the history of the region. We will then journey to the mountainous interior, where 7,000-foot peaks rocket up from sea level, creating stunning canyons, deep valleys, and dense pine and fir forests surrounding alpine lakes, known locally as “mountain eyes.” We will visit four National Parks: Lovcen, Biogradska Gora, Durmitor and Skadar Lake. In addition to the hiking excursions, there will be a two-day raft trip down the Tara River, referred to as “the Jewel of Europe.” The cost of the trip includes all ground transportation in Montenegro, lodging, most meals, two days of rafting, guides, all park and museum fees, leader expenses, and the CMC outing fee. Hikes will be 2 to 8 miles in length and gain up to 2,500 feet in elevation. This trip is limited to 10-12 participants. For more information, contact Rada Perovic at (303) 985-3263 or radaperovic@msn.com.
Arctic National Wildlife Refuge
Hiking and Rafting the Lower Kongakut River
June 19 – July 2, 2010 $4,523 (does not include airfare)
This is a special opportunity to see a part of the world that is a true wilderness. Revel in the quiet and enjoy sightings of Dall sheep, grizzlies, wolves, Arctic fox, musk ox, thousands of migrating caribou, and nesting birds on the coastal plain that will make this trip an unforgettable experience. Expect to see Golden eagles, peregrine falcons, loons, owls, and jaegers. And there will be a vast array of wildflowers. The Kongakut is a north-flowing river in the northeast corner of Alaska that empties into the Arctic Ocean. Our 10-day raft trip will start in the northern most Brooks Range, known as the British Mountains. Paddling north from the peaks on this clear river, we enter a region of rugged and rounded foothills with excellent views of the Brooks Range to the south and the Arctic Ocean to the north. As we enter into the Kongakut’s delta, we pick our way through a maze of river braids to a massive freshwater ice field (aufeis) acting as gates to the Arctic Ocean. We will begin with three to four layover days to explore the land of the midnight sun. On rafting days, we will travel from six to eight hours, going ashore often to explore or watch wildlife. Fishing is good and any caught can be cooked by our guides. This trip is limited to 6 CMC members (accompanied by two guides) with two rafts. Price includes flights from Fairbanks to Arctic Village, bush plane flight to a gravel bar by the Kongakut, flights from the Arctic Ocean to Fairbanks, camp gear, wholesome (mostly organic) meals, repair and safety equipment, all raft equipment including a life jacket, one medium-sized dry bag and bear spray repellent per person. Not included in price is roundtrip airfare to Fairbanks, three nights lodging and meals in Fairbanks, sleeping bag, pad, tent, rubber boots, large waterproof dry bag, or tips. Rental equipment is available for a small fee. Estimated airfare from Denver to Fairbanks is $750. For further information and application, contact leader Bea Slingsby (this is her fourth trip to the refuge) at 303-422-3728, or beahive@comcast.net
huge fortress of Saqsaywaman. Then, a five-day supported trek will take us through rainforests up to the Salcantay Umantay pass at 14,763 feet. We will see glaciers and high peaks before arriving at Aguas Calientes, then take the bus up to Machu Picchu. On our second day in Machu Picchu, we will climb the peak behind it, Huayna Picchu, for a bird’s eye view of the famous Inca site. The trip carries a “C” classification for its high elevation and rugged trails. Not included in the trip cost are airfare to Lima, travel insurance, several meals, guide tips or personal spending money. For more information, contact Janet Farrar at wildjc@juno.com or 303-933-3066.
Russia: Climb Mount Elbrus August 17 – 29, 2010 $3,097 (does not include airfare)
For the seventh time, the CMC’s High Altitude Mountaineering Section will lead a trip to Russia and the spectacular Caucasus Mountains of southern Russia, between the Black and Caspian Seas. Mount Elbrus (18,510 feet) is one of the fabled Seven Summits and offers strenuous, but not overly difficult, climbing. Required are a basic knowledge of ice axe, crampons and roped travel. Transit is through Moscow and will include a daylong city tour at the end of the trip.
Peru: Salcantay Trek June 19 – July 4, 2010 $1,725
Trek the longer, more spectacular approach to Peru’s Machu Picchu on the Salcantay route. The trip will start in Lima with a city tour. Then we will fly to Cuzco, sacred city of the Incas, where we will visit the valley towns and attend the Inti Raymi Solstice festival on June 24 at the
AVAILABLE IN MAY Trail & Timberline
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The cost of the trip includes domestic airfare within Russia, all lodging and most meals, ground transportation, guide fees in the valley, a Russian visa and permit fees, leader expenses and CMC fee. The final cost may vary slightly depending on airfare and currency exchange issues. For application requirements, please see www.cmc.org/AT. To obtain the trip itinerary and application, contact Steve Bonowski at climbersteveb@ gmail.com or P.O. Box 280286, Lakewood CO 80228-0286. Trip packet is available only by regular mail. No phone calls please.
We will visit a wild virgin cloud forest around Pichincha Mountain and trek on great jungle trails inside a natural paradise, observing everything from hummingbirds to orchids. A visit to the world famous Otavala Indian Market will give you a chance to shop for local handmade products. For more information, please contact Betsy Weitkamp at 303-722-1656 or elaw@q.com.
Trekking in Nepal
September 25 – October 10, 2010 $2526 (does not include airfare)
Hiking Circuit of Ecuador September 8 – 19, 2010 $2,501 (does not include airfare)
This trip will give you an opportunity to travel to a private preserve nestled in a rustic mountain setting in the Pichincha Foothills near the Quito airport, offering peace and tranquility. You will experience the bird and animal life and hike in the footsteps of ancient Incas on the Last Inca Emperor’s Trails. Arriving in Quito, we will explore the capital city of Ecuador and learn about colonial art, history, archaeology, and folklore. One day will be reserved for trekking to the Highland Rainforest, visiting sacred waterfalls and learning about some of the 250 varieties of native medicinal plants in the region.
Join Pemba Sherpa, a native of the Khumbu re-
gion of the Nepal Himalayas, on this spectacular trek through the foothills of some of the world’s highest peaks. Pemba has been guiding visitors to his homeland since 1986, and in 2010 will lead us into the heart of the world’s majestic Himalayan Mountains and into the rarely visited Lumding Valley. Very few Westerners have ever ventured into this unspoiled valley. We will be surrounded by striking scenery as we trek through virgin terrain, all the while marveling at views of Mount Everest and its neighbors. We will also spend time with Pemba’s family in the small Sherpa village of Sengma and will relax for a couple of days in Nepal’s colorful capital city of Kathmandu. For more information, please contact Pemba Sherpa at (303) 525-6508 or pemba@sherpaascent.com.
PACK LLAMAS FOR RENT
Backpackers Hunters
Fisherman Photographers
WWW.ANTEROLLAMAS.COM Salida, Colorado
Phone: 719-539-6888 E-mail: bill@anterollamas.com
YOUR MOUNTAINEERING LIBRARY NEEDS THIS BOOK “I
N FALL 2008, the Colorado Mountain Club published a guidebook that was riddled with typos and 70 years out of date, at a time when online competition has put the future of even the most current printed guidebooks in question. And it charged $185 per copy. “‘It sounds crazy,’ Alan Stark, the club’s publisher, said recently as he cracked open a new, hardbound copy of the guide. ‘Obviously, this is not a typical guidebook. It’s a collector’s piece. People will buy it not to use it, but to have it.’ “The book is called The San Juan Mountaineers’ Climber’s Guide to Southwestern Colorado. It was first published in 1933—hand-typed and hard-bound in less than a half-dozen copies. It was the first modern guidebook in Colorado, and with its maps, photos, and route descriptions, it set the template for the hundreds that have followed. “Climbers have passed around photocopied and stapled versions for The San Juan Mountaineers’ generations, making it an almost mythic book. The club reproduced it Climber’s Guide to Southwestern Colorado exactly, down to the crossed-out letters and handwritten notes in the margins of the typed pages. L I M I T E D E D I T I O N AVAILABLE EXCLUSIVELY FROM THE COLORADO MOUNTAIN CLUB PRESS “In one sense, the Guide to Southwestern Colorado is a history book. ORDERS: 303-996-2743 In another, it is still a living guidebook.” —Dave Philipps, The Gazette, Colorado Springs
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WINTER 2010 ORDER FORM S E N D O R D E R F O R M A N D PAY M E N T T O :
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